Discover Taos Winter 22/23

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let us be your guide TAOS 575.758 8673 angel fire 575 377.1192 With proven local real estate expertise, leveraged by the powerful reach of the regional and national Coldwell Banker networks, let our team be your guide to Taos & Angel Fire real estate. Whether you’re buying or selling real estate in the Enchanted Circle, the most important Properties have deep roots in the community, a love for the area, and a commitment to WWW.TAOS.REALESTATE santa fe 505.988.7285
MUDD-N-FLOOD MOUNTAIN SHOP 103 A Bent St. (near Taos Inn) • Taos 575-751-9100 • Kuhl • Vuori • Toad & Co • Smartwool • Darn Tough Socks • Buff MSRSnowshoes • Osprey • Asolo • Oboz • Kamik • Acorn Quality Outdoor Gear and Clothing for Every Adventure “The mountains are calling and I must go.” – JOHN MUIR
Photo by: Jonah Sutton | @joney_hawk
Every Time” Locally Sourced Meats • Fresh Squeezed Margs • Incredible Ambience Open Wednesday – Monday review 575.776.3333 Located on Ski Valley Road, 470 State Highway 150 in Arroyo Seco
DISCOVERTAOS.COM WINTER/SPRING 2023 17 Call for appointment and directions. 575-758-4042 • An Invitation to Visit the GONSKE GALLERY & STUDIO “Along the High Road to Taos”, 11” x 14” oil on panel Represented in Ranchos de Taos at Chimayo Trading Del Norte (next to the Ranchos Church) Call for appointment and directions. 575-758-4042 • An Invitation to Visit the GONSKE GALLERY & STUDIO “Along the High Road to Taos”, 11” x 14” oil on panel Represented in Ranchos de Taos at Chimayo Trading Del Norte (next to the Ranchos Church)
WINTER/SPRING 2023 Home of the Rio Grande Del Norte National Monument 300,000 acres of year-round recreation 20 minutes north of Taos Chevron is proud to sponsor this ad. uesta FIND WHAT’S REAL
Stephen Day “Scattered Bright Light” Oil 24 x 36 Monique Belitz “Summer’s End” Acrylic/Ink 36 x 36

Meet the Dream Team


Pavel Lukes is proud to call Taos home over the past 29 years. Originally from Prague, Czechoslovakia, Pavel credits his success to his strong sense of loyalty and commitment to his clients and a determination for excellence in his field. There is a reason why Pavel has the most Zillow reviews and the highest star rating of all Taos Realtors. He welcomes you to Czech it out!!


What about BOB? AKA

Robert Jacobs: 45 years of living and loving Taos County: the Land, the diverse cultures, and the People. Experiences in Forest Service Natural Resource Management; Asst. to Land Surveyor; and Real Estate Sales (30 years) Need some local guidance? Confucious say: ASK FOR BOB!

Jeff Motsinger

Jeff moved to Taos in 1976 as a young boy and after high school spent 40 years doing morning radio around the US. Now he’s a local go to for all things Taos. A master storyteller with an extreme knowledge of Northern New Mexico Real Estate, Jeff will happily list your home or find the property of your “Dreams”.

Elaine Taylor

Elaine doesn’t work with more than 1 or 2 real estate clients at a time so she can give them her undivided attention. She develops relationships with her real estate clients that continue long after the real estate transaction is complete. Elaine classifies herself as a spiritual activist and enjoys blooming wherever she is planted. Currently she is a blooming New Mexican Sunflower.

David Sperry

I escaped from the insanity of the corporate world and settled in Taos 23 years ago. I’m working as a Real Estate agent and a licensed building contractor. I used to think I was indecisive, but now I’m not really sure!

DISCOVERTAOS.COM WINTER/SPRING 2023 25 575.758.3606 | TAOSNEWMEXICO.COM Let our experienced Real Estate Brokers go to work for you! When you choose to work with Dreamcatcher Real Estate, you are dealing with professionals who have in-depth and intimate knowledge of the local real estate and business scene and who appreciate the natural beauty and the rich cultural history of northern New Mexico. Contact us at anytime for information, advice or with a question on other Taos area resources. Dreamcatcher’s Dream Team, the name says it all!
Robert Jacobs
CONTENTS Under the Spell 128 46 Museum Magic Historical homes, exquisite fine art, regional jewelry and much more 96 Native Plaza Discover Native-owned Indigenous arts galleries in the heart of Taos 100 A Dog’s Life Everything you need to keep your pets happy and healthy in Taos WINTER GUIDE 2023 continues on page 28 WINTER/SPRING 2023 DISCOVERTAOS.COM of Northern New Mexico

If you’re lucky enough to visit Taos in winter, you’re sure to feel the mountain’s sacred spell — a rare gravity that pulls you into the Land of Enchantment and stays a part of you forever.

Under the spell in Northern New Mexico is the perfect way for friends, couples and families to get outdoors and make memories not soon forgotten in one of the most unique places on Earth.

If this is your first time visiting El Norté, then you're in for a treat. From skiing to riding, snow shoeing to tubing, ice fishing to stargaz ing — there is so much on offer here when you step out into the vast landscapes of Northern New Mexico.

There is plenty to enjoy when you head indoors as well: unique  regional foods, drinks and live music in local restaurants and bars, holiday shopping in one-of-a-kind boutiques as well as modern and historic works of art in world-renowned galleries and museums.

What's more, everything to see and do here is steeped in a one-ofa-kind tri-cultural community, which includes the centuries-old Spanish community that still calls this region home, the ancient Pueblo communities that keep their indigenous traditions alive and everyone who has discovered what makes this region so special.

There’s a reason they call New Mexico the Land of Enchantment and Taos County the Enchanted Circle. Here, you will find everything that makes this state unlike any other — a true bucket-list destination.

So grab your gear and come visit this corner of the American South west and discover the spell of the mountain for yourself.


Harwood Museum of Art

Governor Charles Bent House

Taos Art Museum at Fechin House

Carson Home & Museum

Millicent Rogers Museum

La Fonda de Taos

Lady of Guadalupe Church

Guadalupe Plaza and Santistevan House

Padre Martínez House

John Dunn House

Bert Phillips House

Arthur Manby House

The Historic Taos Inn

El Ríncon Trading Post

Walter Ufer Studio

Luna Chapel and Sharp Studio

Eanger Irving Couse House

Mabel Dodge Luhan House


Carson Park & Cemetery

Location of original

Lady of Guadalupe Church

Taos Community Auditorium

First Presbyterian Church

D.H. Lawrence Ranch OFFTHE MAP

Francisco de Asís Church


E.L. Blumenschein House
Hacienda de los Martínez HISTORIC BUILDINGS
Taos Plaza
Historic County Courthouse
La Loma Plaza
Victor Higgins House NOTEWORTHY
Arroyo Seco
DISCOVERTAOS.COM WINTER/SPRING 2023 33 Open 10am-5pm 575.758.2326 229 A Camino de la Placita One block NW of the Plaza in Taos • Free Parking

Celebrate our diversity. Discover our history.


A spell has been cast over this sacred landscape

Compelling us to live life to its fullest

Some things we all have in common. There’s nobody like me to protect the things we all value. Like a good neighbor, State Farm is there.®

Love. Hope. Success. Family. Security.
Wanda Lucero 575.737.5433
to be Taos’ Best Agency 12 Years Running
It derives from the elders — who loved this land
It’s a spell in step with nature’s order

Bringing your woodstoves and fireplaces to life...

When fall is settling in, the cold chill in the New Mexico air encourages us to start burning firewood.There is nothing like the warmth coming off of a wood stove or fireplace. The brisk air in the fall and winter is also a reminder to make sure to get your wood stoves, pellet stoves, and fireplaces inspected and cleaned.

What better than to have Bailey’s Chimney, the premier chimney professionals, pay you a visit to make sure you have a safe and comfortable burn season. Both Licensed and Certified, Bailey’s Chimney specializes in cleanings, inspections, restorations, installations, replacements and repairs of both wood stoves, fireplaces, and dryer vents. Bailey’s Chimney goes to extents that most would not, to provide the best valued service customers deserve.

Safety, Value, Professionalism


Bailey’s Chimney today at 505-988-2771 or visit our website at to book your appointment today!

Museum Magic

THIS WINTER, step out of the cold and into the hearth of Taos Art and Culture. Several museums in town masterfully act as storytellers for one of the most culturally rich places in all of America and continue to shine a light on its future.



238 Ledoux St, Taos, 575-758-9826,

If you only have time to visit one museum during your visit to Taos, make it the Harwood Museum of Art. This gorgeous adobe was once the home of Burt and Lucy Harwood and has long been witness and patron to the art scene. In fact, it is considered the second-oldest art museum in the state and houses an impressive array of Spanish Colonial and Hispanic relics as well as works from the many waves of artists who have found their muse in the Taos Valley, beginning with the Taos Six. The Harwood will be wintering two exciting temporary collections that should not be missed.

To take a deeper dive into the lives and significance of two early Taos families, visit one or both homes under the Taos Historic Museums umbrella.

Directly next to the Harwood Museum on Ledoux Street, you’ll find the E.L Blumenschein Home & Museum, the former home of Ernest and Mary Blumenschein that is now a living museum and shrine to the artist couple’s legacy. If your curiosity has been piqued by the story of a fateful broken wagon wheel that prompted Blumenschein and his friend, Bert Phillips, to ditch their Mexican sketching trip and set down artistic roots in Taos, you’ll enjoy visiting how the artists lived and worked in the rambling adobe homes of the property.

Travel just a short distance to the outskirts of town to walk through the Spanish Colonial-style Hacienda de los Martinez. Savvy businessman, Severino

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Where History Meets Art in Taos

Where History Meets Art in Taos

DISCOVERTAOS.COM WINTER/SPRING 2023 49 Contact us for the valuation and resale of your Southwestern collectable art 575-758-0504 | Located 3.7 miles south of the Taos Plaza #1 Saint Francis Church Plaza, Ranchos De Taos, NM 87557 14K Gold bracelets with Australian Opal and Natural American Turquoise by Gabriel Abrums
Contact us for the valuation and resale of your Southwestern collectable art 575-758-0504 | Located 3.7 miles south of the Taos Plaza #1 Saint Francis Church Plaza, Ranchos De Taos, NM 87557 14K Gold bracelets with Australian Opal and Natural American Turquoise by Gabriel Abrums
Ildefonso Pottery by Martha Appleleaf and Eric Fender, Santa Clara Pottery by Sharon Naranjo, Taos Drums by Lee Lujan; Navajo Weaving by Charlene Laughing
Representing the Historical Classics and the Best Contemporary Artists Representing the Historical Classics and the Best Contemporary Artists

Martinez, brought his family to the Taos area from Abiquiú, NM in the early 1800s. He built this fortress-like home for his family, which soon became an important center of commerce for traders traveling up and down the Chihuahua

Trail. History romantics will have no trouble imagining Severino and his family, including son and well-known Taoseño Padre Martinez, walking the dirt and ox–blood floors and settling in for a night around the kitchen hearth behind the massive adobe walls.

Kit Carson is a controversial figure in the story of Taos, but you’ll find his name woven throughout the area due to his undeniable place in its history. If you want to learn why his legend looms over much of Northern New Mexico, visit his home turned Kit Carson House/Museum on…

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Carson Rd, Taos, 575-758-4945,

you guessed it, Kit Carson Road.

The thread of Carson family history weaves its way through to Bent Street and intertwines in a most violent way with the family of Governor Charles Bent. To fully realize the frightening experience that happened in 1847 when Bent’s life was ended, pay a small fee to visit the Governor Charles Bent House & Museum across from the John Dunn Shops and see how a few brave women cunningly and victoriously escaped the same fate.

For an exotic and glamorous foray into Taos history and to better understand its inhabitants love for working with the clay, stone and wood gathered from the land, visitors should seek to visit Taos Art Museum at Fechin House, home of Nicolai Fechin, and the Millicent Rogers Museum.

Fechin, a Russian immigrant and important 20th century artist, built this Taos home for his family in the early 1900s. You’ll find his paintings throughout the house, but don’t overlook the walls and hand-carved wood adornments in the home that are from his hand as well. The Millicent Rogers Museum houses an impressive and priceless collection of Native American jewelry.


708 Hacienda Rd, Taos 575-758-1000


117 Bent Street, Taos 505-758-2376


1504 Millicent Rogers Rd, El Prado 575-758-2462


227 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos, 575-758-2690,




Authors & Poets 2022-23

Steve Almond

11/11/22 (Prose Month)

Paul Tran 4/14/23 (Poetry Month)

Azareen van der Vliet Oloomi 5/5/23

Tommy Orange 7/7/23 (Taos Writers Conference)

Raymond Christian 10/14/23 (Storytelling Festival)

Kinari Webb 11/3/23 (Prose Month)

Taos Art Museum at Fechin House

Taos Art Museum to see stunning exhibitions in the exquisite, historic home and studio that renowned artist Nicolai Fechin designed and built by hand, including hand-carved doors, corbels, and furniture. In the historic district 227 Paseo del Pueblo N.

The Most Important Public Holding of Maria Martinez Pottery in the U.S.

1504 Millicent Rogers Road


Over 1000 years of tradition. Learn about our histroy, culture and art. | Open Thursday-Monday 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. | 758-1028 | 120 Veterans Highway

56 WINTER/SPRING 2023 DISCOVERTAOS.COM THIS WINTER GHOSTRANCH.ORG 505.685.1000 VISIT FOR THE DAY O’KEEFFE LANDSCAPE TOURS & TRAIL RIDES TRADING POST | HIKING TRAILS ANTHROPOLOGY & PALEONTOLOGY MUSEUMS 101 Bent Street • 575.758.3561 • There’s something wonderful on the corner of Bent Street. Whispering Journeys Annoel Krider Medicine Buffalo & Owl John Booth ‘Fire & Ice 33’, 36” x 48” 575-770-0760 • 102 Dona Luz, Taos, NM 87571 (West of the Plaza and behind US Bank)
ART | G IFT S | H O ME A CC ENT S | DE S I G N S ERVI C E S with a modern flair. Authentic Taos 127 BENT STREET | TAOS, NM | JONESWALKEROFTAOS.COM | 575.758.7965 5
Come step through the door of our 250 year old historic adobe home turned art gallery and see all that Jones Walker of Taos has to offer! From original artwork by legendary Taos artists to beautiful New Mexico traditional weaving to amazing Taos potters to handmade drums by a drum maker from Taos Pueblo we’ve got something for everyone!

Millicent’s Museum

Millicent Rogers Museum preserves Taos history and culture

The origins of the Southwest’s most storied cultural institutions are often as interesting as the objects preserved within. Take the Millicent Rogers Museum in Taos, for instance. Before it became one of the must-see cultural institutions of the Southwest, located on the mesa just north of Taos, its namesake was considered a verywell-known fashionista, an heiress to the Standard Oil fortune through her grandfather, the legendary tycoon Henry Huddleston Rogers.

But Millicent Rogers was known more for her iconoclastic character. While often seen in newspaper society pages and magazines such as Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue, or on the arms of movie stars and celebrities such as Clark Gable, Roald Dahl, Ian Fleming and various members of royalty, she flaunted convention by taking three husbands — the first at age 21. In her lifetime, she became mother to Peter Salm, and Paul and Arturo Peralta-Ramos Jr.

She was also a lover of great art, and even made some of her own. This interest became more focused when she began exploring the American Southwest and fell in love with Native American art, which she began collecting from her small adobe home in Taos called “Turtle Walk,” where she settled in 1947.

Although quite active in her day, her health suffered greatly as the result of having contracted rheumatic fever as a child. She died Jan. 1, 1953 at the age of 50.

In tribute to his mother, her son Paul Peralta-Ramos founded the Millicent Rogers Museum in 1956, using her collection of Southwest art as the basis. First located on Ledoux Street, the museum moved to the Manby-Thorne House where it operated until 1968 — when the home of Claude J.K. and

Elizabeth Anderson was donated. It was in this location — with its sweeping panorama of the Taos Valley — that the museum blossomed, especially after its renovation and expansion in the mid-1980s by famed architect Nathaniel A. Owings.

The museum has since grown by leaps and bounds. Although founded as a way to show Rogers’ personal collection, it has become a professionally-operated cultural institution dedicated to the preservation, exhibition and study of Southwestern art and historic objects. Paul PeraltaRamos was instrumental in providing important stewardship for the museum’s early years and, through his friendship with Maria Martinez, the famed potter of San Ildefonso Pueblo, “ultimately led to

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60 See My Paintings at Wilder Nightingale Fine Arts (Taos), Legacy A Lifetime in New Mexico “Rainbow Over Shady Lakes” 24x48 o/c See My Paintings at Wilder Nightingale Fine Art (Taos), Manitou Galleries (Santa Fe), & Squash Blossom (Colorado Springs) “Enjoying Being a Painting Artist More than Ever!” – PJ
See My Paintings at Wilder Nightingale Fine Arts (Taos), Legacy A Lifetime in New Mexico Don Brackett “Rainbow Over Shady Lakes” 24x48 o/c See My Paintings at Wilder Nightingale Fine Art (Taos), Manitou Galleries (Santa Fe), & Squash Blossom (Colorado Springs) “Enjoying Being a Painting Artist More than Ever!” – PJ

her family donating what is the largest publicly-held collection of Martinez material in the world. This collection encompasses not only Martinez’s professional career as a potter, but also includes numerous items relating to her private life, including clothing, jewelry, and papers. That collection is now the centerpiece of a major permanent exhibition on her life and work,” a museum statement reads.

In addition to Native American art, the museum also focuses on works by Hispano and Non-Native artists whose contributions have been important to the evolution of art and culture in the Southwest.

Perhaps one its greatest contributions has been the museum’s affiliation with nearby Taos Pueblo, whose artists are a regular part of the museum’s exhibition cycles. Its annual Taos Pueblo Artists Winter Showcase has proven to be a much-needed resource for Native American artists, especially during the coronavirus pandemic.

Shadow Plays

Everything has a shadow, said Michelle Lanteri, curator of collections at the Millicent Rogers Museum. “There’s some layer of shadow over everything that exists in this world.” Her assessment is evident in pottery, paintings, prints, photography, video, weavings and more.

Whether one looks at it literally, or as an artistic metaphor, the shadow plays an important role in one of the museum’s special exhibitions on view this winter.

Titled “Southwest Reflections: In Between Shadows of the Land,” the show — curated by Lanteri — offers a diverse exploration of nine New Mexican artists’ documentations of environmental relationships and the ways these events become conveyed through shadows, reflections and movements.

MILLICENT ROGERS MUSEUM 1504 Millicent Rogers Road 575-758-2462, 62 WINTER/SPRING 2023 DISCOVERTAOS.COM
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64 WINTER/SPRING 2023 DISCOVERTAOS.COM Born and raised in Taos, New Mexico with 7 years of professional real estate experience around the Enchanted Circle. Trust in your local realtor, call today! Angel Fire | Taos | Red River Amanda Tafoya to The Hoffmann Team Welcome, At Coldwell Banker Mountain Properties ® , it’s all about you. 575.377.1192 | 3375 Mountain View Blvd. Ste E, Angel Fire, NM Amanda Tafoya Broker Associate 575.770.0830

paintings, photos, and digital images investigate a wide range of color in botanical spheres. Her works give a greater perception of colors that may exist for other creatures but not in our range of vision. Taking the viewer into the wondrous world of the unseen, Dubay looks deep into detail, color, and patterns of botanical organisms to find the unexpected.

DUBAY DESIGNS Contemporar y & Abstract Botanicals Magenta, 30x30” oil on canvas Studio/Galler y Open by Appointment 512
• •
“Reliable, Dependable,Professional and Local” — Miguel Vargas, Taos Artist FRAMING FINE ART SINCE 1985 (575) 758-7355 202 Paseo Del Canon East, Taos

Great Galleries

Not-to-be-missed art galleries representing some of the best artists in El Norté

There are two types of people who visit Taos: those who come for the immersion in a culturally rich art colony and those who come for its many other notable attractions. If you fall into the latter camp, then allow this to serve as your road map for unlocking some of the art treasures to be found, for there are many.

Chimayo Trading del Norte is a great place to begin your exploring. Located in the plaza shared with the world-famous San Francisco de Asís church, “We are a family-owned and operated gallery with four generations in the Native American and fine art business,” said Gabriel Abrums. Come here to browse room after room of New Mexico paintings, pottery, weavings and jewelry, and to engage the friendly owners who will be happy to spend time educating you about their many collections.

If you’ve decided that pottery is your thing, then stop at Taos Ceramic Center on your way north into town. The region’s best contemporary clay artists are represented here, offering beautiful and functional pieces to grace your home. You may even be inspired to take a class and create your own works; inquire about lessons and studio time.

There’s a reason why Wilder Nightingale on Kit Carson Road is consistently voted “Best Gallery in Taos.” Visitors note the “beautiful art” and “friendly, welcoming atmosphere” that are the signatures of

Chimayo Trading del Norte

No. 1 St. Francis Church Plaza, Ranchos de Taos 575-758-0504,


127 Bent Street, Taos, 575-758-7965

owner Rob Nightingale. You’ll find some of the best regional contemporary fine artists represented here, in an array that truly has something for everyone.

Around the corner, Lun + ojo successfully juxtaposes sleek, minimalist design with vintage-vibe accents. Featuring his own extraordinarily detailed works of acrylic and acrylic inks

on wood, gallery owner Toby Putnam is also representing a group of young masters in sculpture, ceramics, jewelry, leather, photography and printmaking.

“We feature original works by premier Northern New Mexican artists: original works from the soul of the Southwest,”

Jones Walker of Taos
+ ojo 111 Paseo
Visit on Facebook
Norte, Taos, 801-755-7447,
Wilder Nightingale
119A Kit Carson Road, Taos, 575-758-3255,
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DISCOVERTAOS.COM WINTER/SPRING 2023 71 GALLERY / STUDIO / ANNEX Give the Gift of Creativity. Any time of year! 114 Este Es Road, Taos, NM Phone: 575-758-2580 Taos Ceramics Center © TheGiftofCreativity
Whether a work of art from TCC’s beautiful gallery or a delightful pair of mugs for your morning coffee or a gift card for a class or studio membership, the Taos Ceramics Center specializes in promoting creativity. Please visit us Wednesday thru Sunday on the south side of Taos! See website for hours.
Artist: Andrea Pichaida
72 WINTER/SPRING 2023 DISCOVERTAOS.COM H eritage F ine a rts ONE LOCATION ~ WORLDWIDE OPEN DAILY 10 -5PM In The Middle Of Gallery Row • 122 Kit Carson Rd, Taos 575-751-7348 | REPRESENTING: Andersen Kee • Roberto Ugalde • Mitch Caster • James Reid • Tatiana Koch • Roger Williams • Beverly Branch • Susan Temple Neumann Malcolm Furlow • Robin Lieske • Monte Yellowbird • Tianlu Chen • Julia Bright • Peter Teller OUR ESTATE SALESROOM PRESENTS THE FINEST IN AFTERMARKET COLLECTIBLES “Summer Hillside” Roberto Ugalde, Oil 48x48 “Stolen Moment” Susan Temple Neumann, Oil 24x30
DISCOVERTAOS.COM WINTER/SPRING 2023 73 Pat Woodall Fine Art Gallery and Southwest Framers Monotypes • Oils 575.770.0393 | 122 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos Winter Sports Taos Ski Valley, Oil 60x36” Pat Woodall Fine Art Gallery and Southwest Framers Monotypes • Oils 575.770.0393 | 122 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos Winter Sports Taos Ski Valley, Oil 60x36”
74 WINTER/SPRING 2022 DISCOVERTAOS.COM Canyon River Mountain Sky Plein air oil on canvas 40x60 K rysteen Waszak Contemporary Original Plein Air Oil Paintings Studios in Taos & Albuquerque. Studio visits by appointment. 505-250-0455 • • instagram/krysteenwaszakart To make is to be together Thoughtfully sourced Carefully curated Natural fabric and fiber Let’s get together at 311 Montezuma Avenue, Santa Fe 505.467.8174

Claireworks 482A State Road

Claire Haye is renowned for the unique jewelry designs featured in her Arroyo Seco gallery, Claireworks. The star of the show is her covetable and attainable silver jewelry but her love of visual arts and different materials can also be found in her sculptures, paintings, monotypes and woodblock prints. Be sure to stop in on your way to the ski valley and snag the

perfect gift for yourself or someone special. Allow yourself plenty of time to linger in your stops. You’ll learn about the region and why it has been an epicenter of arts and crafts for centuries, and you’ll come to love its history and beauty as much as the locals do. New Mexico is, after all, the “Land of Enchantment.”

150, Arroyo Seco, 575-776-5175
ARTS & CULTURE 78 WINTER/SPRING 2023 DISCOVERTAOS.COM continued from page 76
DISCOVERTAOS.COM WINTER/SPRING 2023 79 RB Ravens Gallery 4146 State Highway 68, Ranchos de Taos, New Mexico 87557 575-758-7322 • 866-758-7322 True elegance. classic Navajo Child’s Wearing Blanket pre-1865. All natural dyes, churro wool and raveled bayeta yarn. We offer the best.
“Afternoon Shadows, Ghost Ranch” oil on panel 12x24 Mary Doolittle “Illumination” oil on panel 16x20 Cathy Carey “Summer Dance” oil on canvas 24x30 Also representing: Daniel Brown, Gary Roller, Audrey Davis, Terry Davis, Claudette Barker, Sheena Cameron, Wm Wynn, Tara Kelley-Cruz, Betsy Peirce and Rosa Kilgore Jewelry. 117B Kit Carson Road Taos, NM | 325.647.5736 | next to Kit Carson Home and Museum THE RANCH at TAOS GALLERY Representing these ne artists:
Turner Sheppard

a person was that he was a scrambler. He started out very poor in Texas. He got thrown in jail for accidentally killing his sister’s abusive husband (who threw the first punch). He was being noble defending his sister. Many times, he was close to starvation, but he was resilient and started over after accidents, robberies and narrow escapes from the law.”

Evans, who was a friend of Dunn’s, wrote in his biography that Dunn was born in 1857 in Victoria, Texas. Dunn is quoted as saying “We were trying to make a living on a little rolling dry-land, slow-starvation farm.” Dunn’s father was wounded in the Civil War, and died suddenly of his wounds. The family was too poor to pay for a funeral and Dunn dug the grave himself, thinking, “I tried to numb my mind to what I was doing but as I dug deeper into the ground a feeling of grim determination settled over me. I was dead set in some way I would elevate myself out of the poverty that forced me to dig my own father’s grave…” Trying to help the family make ends meet, he went to work for his uncle for 12-anda-half dollars a month. Then he worked for a neighbor who promised to treat him right, but found himself working the fields, milking cows, chopping firewood and sleeping in a barn. After keeping him working day and night, the man paid him four dollars for the month. After a good deal of brooding, Dunn stole the man’s stallion and headed west.

His travels led him to a ranch near the Rio Grande in Texas. He earned $25 a month, which he sent home to his mother. He then joined a trail drive north to the N-Bar-N ranch in Montana with two thousand steers. As biographer Evans said, “The trail drive tested every good and bad quality in a man. During the trails of hundreds of miles across open spaces, the best or the worst was certain to come out.” He added that Dunn became an expert with both rope and gun. “By many hardships and narrow escapes, he developed a profound lack of fear. All of these were to combine in later years to great advantage,” wrote Evans.

This trail drive stopped in Dodge City, Kan. where he saw his first train, which he tried to lasso. “His decision had been made after several hours in a Dodge City saloon. He roped it all right, right around the smokestack. It jerked him and his horse down, nearly killing them both,” said Evans. Having to quarantine

the steers for a month, Dunn had time to watch the gamblers and learn to gamble himself.

Dunn worked his way back to Texas, where he discovered that his sister had married a drunkard that was abusing her. When Dunn met the man in the street and tried to question him, the man hit Dunn in the mouth. Dunn got a good punch in to the jaw and the other man went down, hitting his head on a hitching rail. He died, and Dunn was sentenced to life imprisonment at the state penitentiary. When he was transferred to a prison farm, Dunn got hold of a smuggled file, cut himself free of his leg irons and made his escape by jumping into the surging river nearby.

He made his way across the Rio Grande to Matamoros, Mexico, where he made his living smuggling and gambling. Finding himself back in Texas, Dunn competed in a rodeo. He took second money in bull riding and first in calf-roping, but it turned out, one of the horses he had sold to pay his entrance fee was stolen. While a judge was preparing to sentence him, he took two strides and leaped through a window. Stealing a horse, he was again free and on the run from the law.

Dunn rode into a wagon campground and met a man who turned out to be Tom Holder, who agreed to smuggle him into New Mexico under the hay in his wagon. Although a group of Texas Rangers hunting for Dunn stopped Holder, they didn’t find Dunn and that’s how he came to arrive in Elizabethtown, N.M.

Dunn ran poker games during the goldboom that first started in Elizabethtown

in 1866. For a time, he owned the whole town of Red River. In 1889, he rode through a town called Therma, now know as Eagle Nest and into the Taos Valley. “John checked up and found that the ancient community was without any means of public transportation, except a branch-line railroad which ended about thirty miles west of town. Somehow, he knew that this was it,” wrote Evans.

He was tall in the saddle — at over six feet — and rode into town ‘sitting straight as a lightning rod’ to start the long process that would lead him to buy two bridges over the Rio Grande at Taos Junction and Arroyo Hondo, establish stagecoach and mail service and a hotel in Arroyo Hondo, among other ventures

According to Raye, “Through all this traveling, he developed a passion for transportation and decided that what the West needed was transportation. For close to 30 years, he provided the only transportation in and out of Taos. He brought the members of the Taos Society of Artists to town. Even though he was gambler and got into some fights, everyone liked him.” In her discussions with Evans, she learned, “Dunn was highly respected in the region. In his later years he held ‘court’ four to five days a week near or on the plaza. Everyone came up to ‘the King’ to talk and pay their respects. He showed a lot of dignity.”

In 1942, Dunn was pardoned by the Texas governor on what Dunn described as the happiest day of his life. He died on May 21, 1953, and tributes to him covered most of the front page of The Crepusculo, the forerunner of the Taos News


John Dunn’s Legacy

John Dunn Bridge

Soon after Dunn bought the bridges at Taos Junction and Arroyo Hondo, a flood washed both of them out. Undeterred, he rebuilt the bridge in Arroyo Hondo, along with the hotel there. He charged a toll for people and animals to cross the bridge; the charge for a person was $1, fifty cents apiece for horse and cattle, and twentyfive cents for sheep. His stagecoach service picked people up in the small town of Servilleta, 10 miles south of Tres Piedras, a stop for the Chili Line Railroad. Dunn drove the stagecoach that brought passengers across the mesa through snow and hailstorms on a rough road that he helped build which descended to the river at Arroyo Hondo. Dunn would later own the first car in Taos, a Ford Model T, and transitioning his business from stagecoach to automobile. The modern bridge today stands in the same place as Dunn’s original bridge.

John Dunn Shops

Dunn’s ten-room home where he lived with his wife, Adelaide, and his four daughters and son was located on Bent Street, and now houses a series of shops. Raye explains that “Harvey Mudd bought from John Dunn’s widow in 1969 or 1970 and renovated the house

into shops. Mudd was from a rich family in Los Angeles and had lived in the New Buffalo commune. His friends from New Buffalo wanted to open little businesses, so he converted the house into seven little shops.” Mudd sold the converted house to Raye in 1982 because they shared a philosophy about creating community and supporting merchants, rather than running a business only to make money. She owned the Apple Tree Restaurant and was interested in creating a beautiful walkway to connect Bent Street with the Plaza.

Dunn originally owned an acre of land with his house, orchard and stable on it. The orchard is now the municipal parking lot, and the stable housed a restaurant that burned down soon after Raye purchased the property. She rebuilt on the footprint of the original stable and the building now houses shops.


Some of the shop owners report strange happenings, including a restaurant owner that says things are frequently and mysteriously moved around. Esther Raskin, who has worked both in the coffee shop and the bookstore that occupy the original John Dunn house,

reports that she often heard strange noises when she was there at night.

“Definitely at least one night, I was down in the basement of the coffee shop, and I heard stomping around upstairs like someone was moving tables and chairs. I went up and nothing was moved. I would frequently hear someone walking around and no one was there,” she said

Sometimes things would fly off the shelves at the coffee shop and books would come off the shelves at the bookstore when no one was nearby. Raskin points out that the house is near many sites downtown that had a violent history and there may be restless supernatural activity as a result.

The restlessness of the spirits is not surprising given the deep and sometimes-troubled history of the town. Everything that has happened here and its natural beauty creates the complex and mysterious fabric that is Taos. As biographer Max Evans says “…if you spend the four seasons of nature in Taos, it won’t matter whether you reside there permanently or not, its powerful earthforms and ethereal mountain mists will follow and enwrap you forever. Long John Dunn is an immutable part of the magic matrix.”

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Destination Downtown

The centrally located John Dunn Shops have something for everyone

At the heart of Taos’ Historic District, enveloped in a canvas of trees, surrounded by landscaped flower gardens, with soft background music and welcoming places to sit, relax, absorb and repeat, the John Dunn Shops offer a quaint, pedestrian, pet-friendly experience as the answer to its more lively, vehicular-friendly neighbor, the Taos Plaza.

In the center where pedestrian paths intersect is a small — yet noticeable — clothing shop aptly named The Little Place Boutique. Rita Jennerjahn has owned the boutique for nearly 20 years, and whether you are a local or a tourist, everyone recognizes the location due to the brightly adorned hat rack positioned outside the front door.

Inside the boutique, shoppers will find fair trade women’s wear, resort clothing, jewelry, and accessories. The shop is a rainbow of bright, vibrant colors with clothing from the U.S., Canada, Australia, Ireland and more. Jennerjahn’s eye for

the commonsense, classic means she carries all-natural fibers and fashionable styles that are preshrunk and can be easily washed and often dried. Distinctive, top-of-the-line brands like Dolcezza, Jams World, Tulip, Lisette and Sabaku are exceeded only by the quality of customer service. Jennerjahn makes a point to support local artists when possible, and carries locally-made items. For anyone who takes shopping seriously, Jennerjahn has plans to retire, and The Little Place Boutique is currently for sale. Along with a wool sweater made in Ireland, you could purchase the entire store.

continues on page 94

The Little Place Boutique
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Nearby is Seconds Eco Store, a shop owned and operated in the John Dunn Shops by mixed media artist Sara Basehart since 2010. Basehart believes in sustainable living, and her store inspires everyone to remember we leave a wake behind everything we do (and purchase), and shopping responsibly takes mere ‘seconds.’

Seconds Eco Store is a gallery filled with recycled, solar powered, handmade and environmentally-friendly products that are, not only creative in design, but also

functional. Basehart works with artists and businesses committed to a more conscientious brand of consumerism by reusing, recycling and upcycling materials to ultimately help reduce our carbon footprint. Basehart is involved in the community, and sponsors the popular and highly-entertaining Glam Trash Fashion Show, the annual recycled wearable art runway.

Taos’ only all-woman cooperative gallery, Las Comadres Gallery, sits closest to the ingress and egress of the Taos Plaza. Comprised of 10 local artists who alternate working in the store, shoppers can enjoy

the rare opportunity to meet at least one of the handcrafters. The Los Camadres artists make and sell an assortment of items including jewelry, ceramics, and artwork made from fabrics, glass, acrylics, watercolors, beeswax, metal and more.

With locally-made and affordable items, locals and tourists know Los Camadres — with the cozy front porch — is the place to purchase unique gifts while supporting local female artists.

At the opposite end of the John Dunn Shops from Los Camadres is op. cit. Books, which faces Bent Street. The

from page 88
Las Comadres Gallery

two-story bookstore, complete with endearingly creaky wood floors, is based in the original home of John Dunn, built in 1920, and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

The abbreviation of the Latin phrase opus citatum (meaning the work cited), op.cit. typically refers the reader to a bibliography, which loosely translates to the study of books — apropos for the store that stocks a range of bestsellers, regional titles, children’s books, poetry and more. And if they don’t have the title you’re looking for, they will happily order it for you.

op. cit. Books caters to a range of readers, has a popular used book section, and a long-standing mystery book club where members meet each month for lunch and discuss the book with the author — some who are local and others who travel to Taos for the opportunity.

And steps away are women’s and men’s fashion boutiques MODA and Clarke & Co., owned and operated by Kristin Facciolini and her husband, Cullen Stevens. The couple present carefully curated clothing and accessories for the discerning shopper. The bespoke shops offer a perfect his-and-hers retail

experience for those looking to step out in style.

In addition to these six local retailers, the John Dunn Shops include businesses that specialize in kitchen wares, textiles and fiber arts, rocks and beads, children’s clothing, leather goods, and men’s and women’s clothing. There is a coffee shop, a restaurant with al fresco dining options and, most recently, the arrival of a food cart and other seasonal offerings. Stores are generally open daily from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. and a parking lot and public restrooms are in close proximity.

Seconds Eco Store

Lyle’s Creations

created primarily by the four owners, as well as by Scripture, a well-known Taoseño Hip Hop artist in his own right.

Born and raised in Taos, Tracks (of Taos Pueblo) and Larcen (of Talpa) used to “rap battle” each other until they decided to collaborate — the pair are now The Soothsayers, a nationally touring duo of Hip Hop artists.

Open since summer 2021, Neight said ArrowSoul is a Hip Hop boutique and art gallery of First Nations soul and urban flare, “blossoming like crazy” with art and screen-printed tees everywhere.

“Think graffiti-style line work with traditional imagery from the Pueblo — like chopping wood or getting water,” Tracks told Tempo’s JuanIsidro Concha last winter. “Think animal heads mixed with Hindu Gods. I grew up going to the Hanuman temple and drinking chai, so I was exposed to those ways. I thought it’d be dope if a grizzly bear had Ganesha’s body.”

The art gallery at the end of the boutique’s short hallway is hung with works by the owners and will host exhibits and art benefits next year. Featured art is by @liphetracks, @jisk27, @sabawear, @neightlarcen, #nativewomanowned and @nashaw.02.

Don’t go looking for a phone number — they’re literally too hip for that hop. Facebook or Instagram gets their attention. Stay tuned for some outrageous First Nations Hip Hop wall murals on the building as it is being developed into an

art hub by its new (unnamed) owner.


101-A Camino de la Placita Hours 11 a.m.-7 p.m., closed Mondays Facebook + Instagram

Michael Gorman Gallery

Michael Gorman continues his famous uncle R.C. Gorman’s tradition of a Native American-owned fine art gallery, now located in the heart of Taos Plaza, just a mile or so east of R.C.’s original Ledoux Street gallery, established in 1968.

On the website, Michael proudly details the Gorman artists — from his greatgreat-grandfather Navajo silversmith; to his grandfather Carl N. Gorman, WWII Navajo Code Talker and artist; through to R.C. Gorman, The Picasso of American Indian Art; his sculptor mother Zonnie; and now to Michael Gorman himself, who works primarily in ceramics and photography, but also paints, silversmiths, woodworks and draws.

“I grew up on the Res,” he says, but he also has Irish, English and French bloodlines. “Four relatives came over on the Mayflower. The gallery is a celebration of the creative spirit.”

“I focus on telling that story,” Michael says of the Gorman family art tradition and the other artists he shows, and knows personally — Nicki Marx, Ron Striegel and Trujillo Y Fuentes. “It’s all about the art and celebration of those things that inspire us. I’m an artist first.”

His exhibit, titled “Rebels Revisited,” is

a retrospective running through winter that highlights Carl and R.C. Gorman’s works, an exhibit with “a lot of freedom to explore what each one wanted,” running from the 1950s through the 90s.

Though Michael’s not always personally in the gallery, he will make appointments for just about any time.

103 East Plaza, Suite B, Taos 575-224-6911

Lyle’s Creations

Just a few yards south of Gorman’s gallery is Lyle’s Creations, on the southeast corner of Taos Plaza, specifically known as McCarthy Plaza. Taos Pueblo artist Lyle Wright opened this gallery in January 2022 and has been busy getting the work of Taos Pueblo artists and artisans out during the challenging Pueblo Covid closures.

Wright said many Pueblo artists left the arts and took conventional jobs to make ends meet. Some galleries also closed, leaving other Pueblo artists to find new places for their work.

Using his formula for the Taos Pueblo Fine Arts showcase at the Stables Art Gallery he created last year, besides his handmade jewelry, he combines newer Pueblo artists with Taos Pueblo stars, such as Jonathan Warm Day Coming, Patricia Michaels, Sonny Spruce, George Lujan, Frank Rain Leaf, Matthew Martinez, Fred Lujan Jr., John Archuleta and Bison Star. He is also expanding representation to Native artists from surrounding areas of Northern New Mexico.

“People come here for Native American jewelry and crafts,” Wright said last fall. “We’re doing so well because [customers] are looking around for handmade stuff.” Both fine art and folk art are represented at Lyle’s Creations — he makes no distinctions as some do. “To me, art is art,” he says and he hopes more Taos Pueblo-owned galleries will locate to Taos Plaza. He’s getting good traffic, he says, because folks love the handmade heartfelt Pueblo vibe.”


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A Dog’s Life

Everything you need to keep your pets happy and healthy in Taos

Vacaying or just hanging with Fur Babies? Here’s what Taos offers to keep pets cuddly — both at home or on the road. Grooming, daycare, boarding, training and more. Also check out Law of the Land — for staying safe and legal in town, county and public spaces. That way everybody is happy.


10,000 Wags Pet Resort & Bow-Wow-Tique

Totally up ’n’ running or walking ’n’ playing for staying or vacaying pets. Precious ones can have boarding, daycare and baths, furry buddy time or they can just hang with humans if they need it. The resort says: "If tails are wagging after a stay or two at the resort, we’re doing our job.”


24822 US 64 West, El Prado

Avalyn’s Paw Spa

Busy as ever, owner/groomer Cyríl Martinez said her loyal peeps and pets kept her afloat through Covid. Named Avalyn after her grand doggie (she’s Cyríl’s only “grandchild”) Cyríl babies pets and owners alike. So whether boarding, grooming or both, come for bliss-filled, hypoallergenic, organic and non-toxic care.


1036 Reed Lane, Suite B, Taos

Barks and Bows Pet Grooming

Owners/groomers Stefanie Smith and Austina Hall love pets as if they are their own. They offer cats, bunnies and dogs “kind and compassionate fearfree treatments for their furry friends

and their parents” that are mostly 1:1, Mondays through Fridays, 9 a.m.-5 p.m. cats and bunnies, 9 a.m.-2 p.m. for dogs.


Pioneer Plaza, 1329 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Unit E, Taos

PAM-pered Pets

Pam Busick and hubby are often called Aunt Pam and Uncle Greg — for the special bonds they have with pups ’n’ their parents. Been here “forever,” Pam grooms 6 days a week and they board 7 days a week. You’ll find up to eight and occasionally 10 fur-friends out for leashed morning walk/runs on their 27acre Carson Ranch trails. Open daily, 9 a.m.-5:30 p.m.


35 South Carson Road, Carson NM 87517 Facebook PAM-pered Pets

Super Groomers

Sherri Perry says they are rolling with their special hand-scissoring/stripping, pet shaving grooms and much more. They do all Stray Hearts Shelter animals for free — because they love animals! Open daily, 4 p.m. is often slower and more available, so come on down for their fear-free care.

575-741-5352 1022 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Suite G., Taos

Taos Canyon Kennel & Training Center

Boarding dogs and cats on her 57acre Magee Mountain Ranch, retired veterinarian Susanne R. Felser, VMD offers a quarter-acre, fenced indoor and outdoor kennel space through the first week in January; then closed through March. Felser occasionally offers training classes as well.

575-758-4229 26900 US 64 East, Taos Canyon


Taos FUR Styling

Certified, licensed and insured master pet groomer for over 25 years, owner Lisa Hopkins offers full-on gorgeousness for dogs under 60 pounds, and cats.

Open 8 a.m.-3 p.m. Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays, same-day appointments may be available. Allowing up to 3 hours for a pet’s grooming makes it a treat for everybody!

575-751-7099 / 575-741-0267

1018 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, El Prado


As they boldly say online –“100/Natural & Cruelty-free Spoil.” Check out their Preshies perfumed pet pics. So good, one reviewer said he’s gonna use it on his own hair! Ann-Marie, Teresa, Clair, Brooke, Chachi and Tammie offer caring, compassionate modern behaviorhandling grooming with treats, walks, happiness and love.


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Jane Trains

“As a certified dog trainer with over 20 years of dog-training experience, I offer one-on-one training, puppy consults, remote classes, educational programs for schools and rescues. My training is positive reinforcement-based with an emphasis on respect, reward and empathy for the dog and owner,” said Jane Gerard, CPDT-KA, KPA-CTP. 575-758-4430



Owner Delinda VanneBrightyn is “dedicated to an enlightened life with dogs through training for pets and working dogs: obedience, agility, enrichment, nose-work, treiball, directed movement, AKC Canine Good Citizen, service dog training, scent detection training and more!”

575-770-5633 125 La Posta Road, Suite 11

Elevation K9

Tad Schmidt creates results-based training “for a balanced dog,” including remote collar techniques for safe offleash walks. “I train dogs. I teach you how to lead,” he likes to say. “Be proud of your dog and showcase his new manners in public.”

575-779-8114 (text is best)

The Real Life Dog

Taos transplant Jen Havens brings her award-winning “ethical dog training” and Pet Care practice to the Enchanted Circle, focusing “on the welfare of each dog, person and household” she serves. Jen is a dog trainer and pet sitter who incorporates “rewards-based, fearfree, and humane methods of care


Dogs must be on-leash and rabies vaccinated in town, town-owned parks, Taos County developed recreation areas (like campgrounds, picnic areas and trailheads) of Carson National Forest and Bureau of Land Management.

and training,” as well as her faves — enrichment and tricks. 626-673-7978 302 Cruz Alta Road, Taos


Kit Carson Park

Formerly a tennis court, this is a small fenced area at Kit Carson Park on Paseo del Pueblo Norte. Dogs must be licensed, vaccinated and wearing visible tags. Puppies younger than four months and females in heat are prohibited.


Stray Hearts Animal Shelter

1200 Saint Frances Lane, Taos 575-758-2981

Taos County Animal Control

For any dog-related incidents 575-737-6488

Taos County Sheriff’s Office 575-758-3361


Angel Fire Small Animal Hospital

Susan Gaffney, DVM 3382 NM 434, Unit H, Angel Fire 575-377-3165

Salazar Road Veterinary Clinic

Trisha Albin, DVM, CVA; Kim Sides, DVM 575-758-9115 1025 Salazar Road, Taos

Taos Veterinary Clinic, P.C.

Ted A. Shupbach, DVM; Jeff Tidwell, DVM; Daniel Fitzsimmons, DVM 41 NM 522, El Prado NM 575-758-7310

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An easy and festive winter cassoulet, and an homage to Jean Mayer and the Hotel St. Bernard

Welcome to Taos, where winter is just another excuse to enjoy life! Whether you like hiking, skiing or snowshoeing, Taos is the place to be during the colder months. And when you get home from the fun — tired and happy — you and your tribe will want to snuggle by the fire and recount the day’s adventures. Who wants to cook now? Yet there is nothing as wonderful as coming home to a home-cooked meal.

When writing this article, I thought about the late Jean Mayer, the French champion skier and founder of the Taos Ski School. For more than half a century, Jean Mayer was the soul of Taos Ski Valley, and he is greatly missed. He was also owner of the Hotel St. Bernard (now closed but with plans to be reborn in 2025.)

At the original St. Bernard, named for the patron saint of skiers and alpinists, Jean Mayer created the intimate atmosphere of a ski chalet in the French Alps. He knew how to make his guests feel appreciated with ski lessons, rustic but luxurious accommodations, and distinctive French meals served family-style.

So, inspired by this Taos legend, I invite you to try something a little different for your winter supper. Although the usual apres-ski menus of soups, stews and chilis are popular and convenient, a wonderful alternative is the iconic French dish known as cassoulet — a rich and luxurious white bean stew that is bursting with the complex flavors of Provence.

Although today, cassoulet is considered a gourmet treat, it has very humble origins. Born of frugality, cassoulet was a convenient way to use up leftovers from a week of family meals. A classic version might contain lamb stew, roast pork, white beans, duck confit, layered together in a cast iron pot known as a cocotte. Some families add leftovers to

their cassoulet every day, presenting a wonderful melange of comforting flavors by cooking and recooking the additions.

Eventually, because cassoulet was so often requested by customers, French chefs created their own versions and elevated the dish to stardom. By cooking each ingredient separately, the chef could then combine them as needed for the final spectacular result. Sometimes, the chef even covered the thick rich stew with a crust of buttered breadcrumbs before baking.

Sound intimidating? Don’t despair. You don’t have to cook for a week to make my version. By using a few ingredient shortcuts (I won’t tell if you don’t!), and a slow-cooker, it is easy to make, and tastes almost as good as the “real” thing.

To simplify the preparation, I omit the duck confit and the lamb stew. Instead, I recommend pork shoulder to give the stew its complexity and richness. And no browning necessary. In the morning, before you head out the door, just throw all the ingredients in the slow cooker, set it on low, and enjoy a fabulous meal when you get home. (And for those looking for a New Mexico twist, adding a half-cup of chopped roasted green chile can be just the thing to make it your own.)

Accompany this splendid apres-ski dish with a crisp salad, some steamed and buttered green beans and a baguette or two. Et Voila!

Whether you’re simply feeding your family or friends after a day of outdoor activities, or making dinner for a holiday, cassoulet is sure to satisfy and impress. And you can take all the credit for serving a feast that would make any Frenchman proud.

Bon Appetit!

Slow cooker pork cassoulet

Serves 6

3 pounds pork shoulder

1 onion, chopped

2 15-ounce cans white beans, drained and rinsed

1 15-ounce can diced tomatoes with their juices

1 cup white wine

1/2 cup chopped green chile (optional) 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley

1 tablespoon chopped garlic

1 tablespoon dried herbs de Provence 1 teaspoon dried rosemary 1 teaspoon dried thyme 1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 bay leaf

2-3 branches each fresh thyme and fresh rosemary (optional)

Garnish: Chopped parsley and freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Place pork shoulder into a slow cooker. In a bowl, mix together all the remaining ingredients except the bay leaf, fresh herb branches and the garnishes. Spoon the bean mixture around the pork shoulder. Place the bay leaf on top of the pork. Arrange the fresh herbs evenly, if using.

Cook on low for 8-10 hours or high for 6 hours. Carefully remove the pork from the slow cooker and place onto a rimmed cutting board. Remove any chunks of fat and discard. Cut into slices or large chunks. Place on a platter and surround with the beans and juices from the slow cooker. Garnish with fresh parsley and Parmesan cheese.

Delicious served with steamed buttered French baby green beans, a fresh green salad and crusty baguettes.

Pow Wows, Rodeos, Fiestas and everything Taos.

Glorious Guides

Heritage Inspirations offers a different kind of guided tour

Visitors looking for an all-inclusive, authentically curated guided tour in and around Northern New Mexico can choose one of more than twenty itineraries offered by Heritage Inspirations, which designs trips “as a woven tapestry of storytelling and adventure” through the back rounds and topography of El Norté.

The tour operator understands the culture, adventure and wild places of New Mexico, and how important it is to go beyond the beaten tourist path to connect visitors with something real, and offers a high level of service for its small-sized tours.

Heritage Inspirations offers guests tours based in Taos, Santa Fe and Albuquerque, with outings that include outdoor expeditions, e-bike tours, glamping, wellness retreats, culinary tours and more.

This year, Heritage Inspirations was featured by Sunset Magazine as 100 Reasons to Love the West and honored with a Top Tour Operator Travel Award. Recognized for their extensive knowledge of the region and culture, their guides are passionate about sharing the treasures of New Mexico with you.

The group also has a firm commitment to support small businesses, engages local and Tribal Member guides, offers locally-sourced and sustainable menus and provides a researched and insightful

history of the region.

Karina Armijo, director of marketing and tourism for the Town of Taos, said, “People come here to learn about Taos, its stories and history. Knowing and sharing these stories is something that local businesses should strive for. And to share those stories with accuracy. This continuity is essential to our cultural sustainability. Heritage Inspirations strives to get the story right, while sharing that Taos is an inspiring and special place.”

In August, Taos Pueblo reopened to the public after a nearly two-year shutdown brought about by the pandemic. Inhabited for over a 1,000 years, the story of Taos Pueblo is a story of origin. Red Willow Tribal Members have been living in harmony with the land and its resources for time immemorial. Located on the lush lands of Taos Valley, the Pueblo’s history of determination, resiliency and vibrancy has been an inspiration for many Indigenous communities.

Taos Pueblo has been a longtime partner

with Heritage Inspirations. In a recent conversation with Ilona Spruce, the director of tourism and marketing, she discussed the importance of bridging the gap between the desires of Pueblo visitors and the needs of Taos Pueblo Tribal members. Ilona is a committed contemporary Tribal professional who wants the world to know the indigenous people “are not a dying race,” but very much alive.

Ilona reflects, “That is why it is important to ask what is good change? What is our accessibility? With increased visitation, there is increased need for amenities. We do have the luxury of our sovereignty, we don’t have to follow a placard of guidelines. We can determine what efforts will best serve our community. Working with companies like Heritage Inspirations, we can share our story from a Native perspective.”

This winter, come experience for yourself the Heritage Inspirations difference on their Hands-on Horno Baking Tour at Taos Pueblo, Artisan Walking Tour & Chocolate, or a Backcountry Snowshoeing Tour here in dynamic Taos. As a New Mexican company, they have unique access to the traditions, people and history of New Mexico and no one can take you there quite like Heritage Inspirations.


How to Taos

Soaking up all that Taos has to offer in a single day

Winter may be a drag elsewhere, but its abundant sunshine, mild temperatures, and usually just the right amount of snow make Taos a great place to be between fall and spring. Taoseños, and those who want to get lost in the town’s enchanting ways, know these words by poet and artist William Blake to be true: “In seed time learn, in harvest teach, in winter enjoy.” Whether you’re a local seeking an in-town adventure or an out-of-towner in search of the best Taos has to offer, it’s easy to live one of your best days ever in this magical high desert mountain town.


Taos Like a Local

While the charming plazas with shops full of unique gifts are hard to resist, if you’re looking for a low key Taos day to satisfy your mind, body and belly, you might choose an itinerary that highlights gems loved by locals.

Rift Valley Loop Trail Trailhead/parking south of Ranchos de Taos, NM 68

While premier skiing, snowboarding, snowshoeing and sledding can be found in Taos County, hikers and mountain bikers can still get their trail fix at the Rift Valley Loop Trails. Consider recent/ current weather before you go, as trails can get quite muddy, but with dry or snow-packed conditions, they offer expansive views of the Sangre de Cristo and the Rio Grande Gorge, one of the only rift valleys in the world. Whether you’re looking for a serious workout or a leisurely walk/ride, this is a great place to kick off a day.

Mary Jane’s Homecooking

616 Paseo del Pueblo Sur

Head north into town from the trails and hit up Mary Jane’s Homecooking, a food truck nestled in a parking lot just off Paseo del Pueblo. With a simple

but satisfying breakfast menu offering handheld burritos — veggie or with meat ($6-7), breakfast tortas ($7.50), and huevos rancheros ($9), Mary Jane’s is classic Northern New Mexican goodness.

The Coffee Apothecary

616 Paseo del Pueblo Sur Simple, unassuming, cozy and quaint — with topnotch coffee and delightful pastries as well — The Coffee Apothecary is a favorite south side spot. Grab a caffeinated or decaffeinated beverage ($2-4) to go with your handheld, and select a sweet treat like a vanilla lavender scone ($4) to further fuel your day. There’s indoor seating, but on a warming, winter morning, the patio tables offer space for sipping and people watching. The Coffee Apothecary is also a specialty coffee roaster, so grab a bag of beans to go ($17.50).

Taos Yoga Rhythms

67 Hwy 522 Star Plz N

If you skipped the morning hike or feel like you need more movement, downward dog your way over to Taos Yoga Rhythms. With a full schedule of daily classes for all yogis, this studio is a place where visitors can leave with a “calm body, open heart, and quiet mind.” (Single class, $10-15).

Taos Cow The Gorge Bar and Grill
Rift Valley Loop Trail

op.cit. books Taos

124 Bent St. (in the John Dunn Shops) Sneak away from the bustle of Taos Plaza and browse this gorgeous two-story book lovers’ utopia. Choose something from your favorite genre — they have everything from new arrivals to rare books to a children’s section — and head upstairs to the reading room of your dreams. Overstuffed sofas and armchairs sit under a vaulted ceiling decorated with dozens of black and white Taos portraits by photographer Paul O’Connor. If you’re a local or happen to be around on the third Wednesday of the month, head to Stella’s Italian Restaurant (112 Cam de La Placita) and enjoy op.cit’s Mystery Book Club that hosts a different mystery book author every month (free).


Taos Like a Daytripper

Burqueños and Santa Feans might challenge each other on whose city is better, but both likely agree that 24 hours in Taos offers a vibe one can’t get from our vecinos to the south.

McCarthy Plaza

Southwest edge of Taos Plaza

Tucked away from Taos Plaza, this small square of shops is inviting for both art browsers and unique gift finders. Check out Sage Fine Art and take home an original piece from many of Taos’ most celebrated artists, or visit At Home In Taos for an eclectic selection of furnishings, tchotchkes and locally made pottery perfect for everyday use.

Plaza Lunches

The menu at The Gorge Bar and Grill has something for everyone at reasonable prices. A weekday happy hour offers chips and queso ($4), red chile pork sliders ($5), and Gorge-aritas or housemade sangria ($4). Catch a game on the TVs in the bar, or warm up while enjoying the view on the heated patio. Just west of Taos Plaza, Azteca Mexican Grill has a full selection of Mexican favorites, as well as plenty of red and green for those who can’t get enough. Get cozy inside the hacienda-reminiscent dining room and enjoy a plate of huaraches with carne al pastor ($13) and a traditional michelada ($7).

Museum Time

A quick stroll from the plaza brings visitors and locals to the doorstep of museums rivaling those in bigger cities. The Harwood Museum of Art (238 Ledoux Street, $10 adult admission) boasts extensive collections, including a stunning mid-century/Taos moderns collection as well as more than 4,000 works on paper with drawings by John Collier and photos by Ansel Adams. Upcoming exhibits include “Outriders: Legacy of the Black Cowboy,” which will be shown until late spring. The Taos Historic Museums/Blumenschein

Home and Museum/Hacienda de los Martinez (222 Ledoux St., $10 adult admission) give visitors a window into the life and times of Blumenschein, early 20th century Taos artist, as well as the early 19th century pivotal trade center along the Camino Real built by Severino Martinez.

Cocktails and Sweet Dreams

End your day by choosing one of 12 unique housemade margaritas at Doc Martin’s Restaurant and Adobe Bar (125 Paseo del Pueblo Norte). Share some queso fundido ($15) while sipping on a paloma classic ($14). Enjoy a night at the luxurious yet rustic Hotel Luna Mystica (25 ABC Mesa Rd., El Prado), where a stay in the vintage 1958 trailer known as “Frida” (with a heating system for winter stays!) costs just under $200 and is the perfect spot to swap stories around an outdoor fire pit.


Taos Like an Out-of-Towner

Paint the town red — or turquoise — and live 24 hours in Taos as if you won’t be back (don’t worry, we know you will.)

Taos Ski Valley

Stay at The Blake Taos (116 Sutton Pl, Taos Ski Valley), a luxury ski in/ski out resort where registered guests receive up to four free ski passes (King room, $320). Non-skiers can enjoy the various spa services offered, including an earth elements massage ($180-$220) or a

continues on page 116
Hotel Luna Mystica
The Harwood Museum of Art
DISCOVERTAOS.COM WINTER/SPRING 2023 113 Natura Win // Caf Corner Office Natura Win o Deser m 122 PASEO DEL PUEBLO SUR, SUITE C (upstairs) www.cornero @cornero cetaos NEW MEXICO'S FIRST AND ONLY NATURAL WINE BAR Natura Win // Caf Corner Office Natura Win o Deser m 122 PASEO DEL PUEBLO SUR, SUITE C (upstairs) www.cornero @cornero cetaos NEW MEXICO'S FIRST AND ONLY NATURAL WINE BAR Natura Win // Caf Corner Office Natura Win o Deser m 122 PASEO DEL PUEBLO SUR, SUITE C (upstairs) www.cornero @cornero cetaos NEW MEXICO'S FIRST AND ONLY NATURAL WINE BAR
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Corner Office

Corner Office at El Conejo offers wines, plates and plenty of simple sophistication

Less than a block south of Taos Plaza, and up a set of stairs, lies Taos’ Corner Office, a new restaurant serving up award-winning food and natural wine. With a patio for lounging, counter service and a cozy indoor vibe, Corner Office at El Conejo offers something new to locals and visitors alike.

Located at 122 Paseo del Pueblo Sur Suite C, just above Muerte Tattoo, the venue is a reinvigorated version of the former El Conejo, owned by local entrepreneur Marcos Aragon. After the restaurant was forced to close due to a roof leak, he offered the revitalized space to a couple who have flipped the concept, bringing natural wine and James Beard Awardwinning food to Taos.

From New York to Taos

Jori Emde and Zakary Pelaccio relocated from New York to Taos during the pandemic, but they were already familiar with the area. Emde said they first began spending winters in Taos beginning in 2014. Pelaccio has been skiing in Taos since the mid-90s. After years of work in New York City and the Hudson Valley, the couple chose to bring their food and wine expertise to Taos full-time.

The couple ran several establishments in New York over the years, with Pelaccio winning a James Beard Award for food at their restaurant Fish & Game. The restaurant’s wine list was also recognized for five straight years by Wine Spectator Magazine in its compilation of the top 50 wine lists.

Along with their immense knowledge of food and wine, Emde maintains a focus on fermentation, running Lady Jayne’s Alchemy, a fermentation school. She plans to bring her fermentation and extractions to the restaurant in the coming months.

The pandemic helped the couple realize they wanted to slow down and look for

a way to bring their passion for fine food and wine to Taos. After talking with Aragon, he offered them the space, and Corner Office at El Conejo was born.

“Literally, we threw this together in just a couple months,” said Emde. But it is unlikely any patron would know, given the cozy, curated atmosphere and fresh color scheme. “The space has got great bones. We feel lucky.”

Natural wine

The main focus of the establishment is Emde and Pelaccio’s handpicked selection of natural wines, which Emde explained, don't contain sulfites or any other unnatural ingredients. “When you put a ton of chemicals in it — when you blow a ton of sulfites in it so that it stabilizes — you're killing the microbes that are in it,” she said. “At the end of the day, and in the most layman’s terms, [natural wine] is a wine that’s still alive.”

“It’s just like food, right? You want to buy well-tended-to, localized foods that aren’t sprayed with pesticides and herbicides to where the flavor is hybridized out,” Pelaccio added. “Food should speak of a place and wine is a food product. The only way that it can tell a story of the place where it’s grown is if it’s not really messed with all that much.”

Emde said that natural wines also have a different effect. “It makes a difference in how you feel. You’ll hear a lot of people say, ‘I quit drinking wine because I always got a headache, but my friend told me about natural wine and now I don’t get headaches,’ and it’s true,” she said.

The natural wines come from all over the world, and many of the ones on their shelf are the only bottles of that kind available in the entire state.

Working with several distributors, including PM Wine Distribution out of Santa Fe, they have curated a list of over 100 wines. A numbered system organized by Emde makes picking the right bottle a little easier.

Emde said wine can be intimidating to some people, and hopes her system will make it more accessible. “I’m intimidated by the French language, in particular, just because I’m not bilingual and [it] just isn’t intuitive for me” she noted. “I like breaking that barrier where you have no inhibitions. All you have to do is tell me what number you want.” From there, Emde can explain the wine in greater detail.

“We’re not here to isolate or make people feel uncomfortable. I love educating people,” she said.

Award-winning food

While wine is a major focus for their restaurant, the food is just as critical. Prepared by Pelaccio, the menu contains a list of items that you are unlikely to find anywhere else in Taos. Plates like the elk carpaccio and wagyu brisket au jus use locally-sourced ingredients.

Emde said she wouldn’t classify Corner Office at El Conejo as a wine bar “because I think a wine bar communicates later hours and stuff like nuts and cheese boards,” she said. “We have a little bit more robust food to offer, but it’s still small and shareable. The idea is to sort-of get playful, but satiate the tummies so that you can drink the wine.”

Pelaccio said the menu will evolve with seasonal ingredients. “We’ll see what happens after the frost comes in. Local products are on the wane and we’ll see how


we have farmers coming on Wednesday and Thursday for drop-off, and then we roll over to the market on Saturday.”

Pelaccio said their goal wasn’t necessarily to pair specific wine with specific food. “We’re not designing the menu to go with the wine list, or the wine list to go with the menu. It’s just what we think is tasty. It’s not a formal experience at all,” he said. “Our preference would be to see more people coming in pre-dinner, and having a bottle of wine and then going out and patronizing one of the other places in town.”

“You can come and just drink, you can come and just eat, or you can come and do both,” he added.

Settling into the space

Corner Office at El Conejo has served guests Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays from 4-9 p.m. since it opened.

“We’re keeping the weekends right now because it really is just the two of us,” Emde said. “Even though the hours are three days a week, we’re still here Wednesday and Thursday prepping and preparing. We moved here so that we can enjoy life and not work 80-hour weeks like we used to. So I think that

it’ll always be limited.” However, they haven’t thrown out the idea of opening on Thursdays in the future.

Emde also plans to bring more of her fermentation and extraction work into the business. “Eventually, I’ll bring my fermentations and my herbal equipment and stuff here so I can kindof have a whole creative space all in one area,” she said, describing the “Corner Office” of the establishment, which is separated from the rest of the business

by shelves full of books on everything from cooking to beer to travel.

Overall, the business is a place for Emde and Pelaccio to explore, create and bring their vision to Taos. “It’s kind of like our food studio — if you will,” Emde said.

“We’re just kind of here throwing some things together and we just want to share it with the town.”

Corner Office at El Conejo

122 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Suite C


Best of Taos

As decided by our readers

For a small town, Taos has plenty to offer. And who would know better about its great food, drinks, entertainment, shopping and services than the folks who live here.

For more than 20 years, Taos News has been asking its readers to weigh in on who’s doing things right when it comes to offerings in Taos. Then we publish the results in a yearly roundup titled The Best of Taos.

Now we want to share those rankings with visitors from out of town. The condensed list will help you find the very best Taos has to offer — as decided by those of us who’ve been around the block. You’re welcome.

Best Restaurant

1 medley. restaurant & wine shop

100 State Road 150, El Prado 575-776-8787 Colleen and Wilks Medley nail it with their “Something good for everyone,” local and round-the-world temp tations in “user-friendly” fare, plus specially curated wines from medley. wine shop, uncorked at the table for a wee fee. Enjoy a cool one — or two — and a few small plates under the limitless views of Pueblo Peak (aka Taos Mountain).

2 Lambert’s of Taos

123 Bent Street, Taos 575-758-1009

Best Breakfast

1 Michael’s Kitchen Restaurant & Bakery

304-C Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos, 575-758-4178

2 Gutiz

812B Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos, 575-758-1226

Best Place for Sweet Treats


Chokolá Bean to Bar

106-B Juan Largo Lane, Taos Plaza, 575-779-6163



Salty Little Sweet Shop

105-B Quesnel, Taos 575-741-6844, @asaltylittlesweetshop

Best Coffee Shop


World Cup Café 102-A Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos, 575-737-5299 Find on Facebook


Coffee Apothecary 616 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Taos 575-779-8706

Best Breakfast Burrito


The (Manté’s)

1402 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Taos, 575-758-4855

There’s always a line at the drivethru, but it speeds right along. Burgers and New Mexican fixin’s (big fat egg burritos with bacon or sausage or chorizo) with red, green or Christmas chile. A 30-year Taos love affair you want a part of.


Abe’s Cantina Y Cocina

489 State Road 150, Arroyo Seco, 575-776-8516

Find on Facebook

Best Vegetarian Food


Wake & Take 480 State Road 150, Arroyo Seco, 505-990-0296


CID’s Food Market

623 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos, 575-758-1148

medley. restaurant & wine shop

Best New Mexican Food


Orlando’s New Mexican Cafe

1115 Don Juan Valdez Lane, El Prado, 575-751-1450


Ranchos Plaza Grill 6 Street Francis Court, Ranchos de Taos, 575-758-5788 Find on Facebook

Best Pizza

1 Pizaños 23 State Road 150, El Prado 575-776-1050,


Taos Pizza Outback

712 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos, 575-758-3112

Best Burger


5 Star Burgers 1032 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Taos, 575-758-8484


The Burger Stand at Taos Ale House 401 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos, 575-758-5522

Best Roadside Food Cart


Mary Jane’s Home Cooking 616 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Taos, 575-770-1170


A La Cart World Street Food 625 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos, 575-758-7503

Best Bar


Adobe Bar at the Historic Taos Inn 125 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos, 575-758-1977,


The Alley Cantina

121 Teresina Lane, Taos 575-758-2121, alleycantinacom

Best Brewery


Taos Mesa Brewing

20 ABC Mesa Road, El Prado 575-758-1900


Red River Brewing Company

217 W. Main Street, Red River 575-754-4422

Best Margarita


Adobe Bar at the Historic Taos Inn

125 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos, 575-758-1977

2 medley. restaurant & wine shop

100 State Road 150, El Prado 575-776-8787,

Best Gift Shop

1 FX18 103-C Bent Street, Taos 575-779-5717,


At Home In Taos

117 S Plaza, Taos 575-751-1486, Find on Facebook

Best Ski/ Snowboard Shop


Cottam’s Ski & Outdoor Shop

Taos: 207 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, 575-758-2822

Taos Ski Valley: 101 Sutton Place, 575-776-8719

Angel Fire: 40 N Angel Fire Road, 575-377-3700

Santa Fe: 740 Hyde Park Road, 505-982-0495

Skiers ’n’ boarders bestie since 1976 is Cottam’s shops in each

continues on page 126
VISITOURNEWBREAKFAST/BAKEDGOODS VENUE,TAOSCAFEUPFRONTOPENINGFALL2022 | 575.776. 8787 | ski valley rd., mile marker 1 say cheese medley. dinner drinks wine shop . . SOUTH SIDE 1384 Paseo Del Pueblo Sur 575-751-0063 NORTH SIDE 822 Paseo Del Pueblo Norte 575-737-0816 Serving Domestic & Import Beers • Wine • Margaritas Sun–Thu 10am–8:00pm • Fri–Sat 10:30am–8:30pm North Side closed Mon-Tue • South Side closed Wed-Thu Mexican Restaurant 2015 to 2022 Taos’ BEST

Best of Taos

continued from page 120

main snow resort in Northern New Mexico. Family-owned, they are family to their fans and it shows — they’re priced right, locally located and o er mega-wide choice-points.


Boot Doctors

103 Sutton Place, Taos Ski Valley, 575-776-2490

Best Outdoor Gear Shop


Taos Mountain Outfitters

113 N. Plaza, Taos Plaza 575-758-9292


Mudd N Flood

103 Bent Street, Taos 575-751-9100,

Best Liquor Store


The Cellar 623 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos (behind Cid’s Food Market), 575-758-7445


Best Local Museum


Del Norte Liquors

1574 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Ranchos de Taos 575-758-8904, ind on Facebook

Best Place to Ship a Package


Taos Crating Co. 1103 Paseo del Pueblo Norte #1, El Prado 575-758-3587,


UPS Store

1335 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Unit 1, Taos, 575-758-8647, Mexico

Best Pet Supply Store


Blue Sky Pet & Feed Supply

214 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Taos, 575-758-1841


Tractor Supply Co. 121 Paseo Plaza Drive, Taos 575-758-4685


Harwood Museum of Art 238 Ledoux Street, Taos 575-758-9826


Millicent Rogers Museum 1504 Millicent Rogers Road, El Prado, 575-758-2462

Best Local Radio Station


KTAOS: 101.9 9 State Road, El Prado 575-758-5826,


KNCE-FM 93.5FM 23 ABC Mesa Road (silver trailer near Taos Mesa Brewing), 575-737-8326

Best Place to Hit the Jackpot

1 Taos Mountain Casino 575-737-0777

Bu alo Thunder Resort 30 Bu alo Thunder Trail, Santa Fe, 877-455-7775 bu

Best Place for Hair Styling

1 Salon Marjorie 237 Ledoux Street, Taos 575-751-7246,

2 Shank 109 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos, 575-737-0882

Best Barber Shop

1 Jason Montaño’s Barber Shop 1304 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos, 575-741-1064

2 Hitching Post Shave 218 Paseo del Pueblo Norte-A, Taos, 575-779-3208

VOTED: BEST BREAKFAST • BEST BAKERY • BEST GREEN CHILE Restaurant & Bakery 304 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos 3 Blocks north of the Plaza (575) 758-4178 ALL YOUR FAVORITE SPANISH & AMERICAN DISHES WEEKLY LUNCH SPECIALS · BREAKFAST SERVED ALL DAY Full Bakery! Cinnamon Rolls, Donuts, Fritters, Cream Puffs, Eclairs, Sopapillias & Much More! Open Days a Week! - Sunday · 7AM to 2:00PM

ean to re

Served at these fine establishments:


Ski Central

Welcome to skiing in paradise. Around the Enchanted Circle of Northern New Mexico, you’ll find skiing and riding for every taste and level of ability. From double-black diamond runs at the legendary Taos Ski Valley to the family-friendly slopes of Sipapu, Angel Fire and Red River, skiing and riding here is more than just about sport — it’s about pristine forests, sunshine, history, culture, community and finding a place that reflects who you are as a skier and a person.

Sipapu Ski & Summer Resort

Opening Day — Nov. 18

This year, Sipapu Ski and Summer Resort will celebrate its 70th anniversary. Since its founding in 1952, there have been some big improvements in the winter outdoor experience, but the friendly, familyoriented feeling has remained the same. Located in the Carson National Forest in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, the resort has more than 40 trails, five lifts and three terrain parks. The Riverside Café and Paradise Riverside Bar and Grill offer great dining options, and there is slopeside lodging, a ski shop and ski school.

Guests will see some of the improvements that were developed during the pandemic remain in place this year to improve the efficiency of their ski experience. Skiers will be able to order their food and beverages online and get a text message when their food is ready.

As John Paul Bradley, the mountain operations manager says, “We realize people are here to ski. Food and beverages will get you through the day, but you didn’t come to stand in line. By ordering online, your food will be ready for you. That allows people to continue to live life.”

Also new this year will be some big improvements in the rental shop with a new boot drying rack that ensures when you pick up your rental boots, they will be dry and comfortable.

Locals know that a devastating fire came close to Sipapu this past summer. Bradley says a big achievement since last year has

been surviving this natural disaster; the fire got within 2.5 miles of the resort. “We are grateful to get to be here and to get to be a ski area again,” he says. Lodging reservations for the winter are strong and the staff is looking forward to being open on Friday, Nov. 18, usually the earliest opening day in the state.

At Sipapu, they are committed to keeping ski pass prices low so that everyone has the freedom to ski. There are free passes for kids under 12. “We want people to recreate in the winter as a family,” says Bradley.

Taos Ski Valley Opening Day — Nov. 24

Taos Ski Valley will open on Thanksgiving Day. With its 110 runs and more than 3,000 feet of vertical drop, it is a worldrenowned ski destination.

TSV has made a commitment to do better for the world through its pledge to protect its people, place and planet and have a good time doing it. Part of that commitment can be seen in its certification five years ago as a B Corporation, which is a designation that a business meets high standards of performance, accountability and transparency related to employee benefits, charitable giving and environmental sustainability.

Now, Taos Ski Valley has been certified as a Carbon Neutral company as a step in significantly reducing its carbon emissions. Chairlifts and snowmaking

use 100 percent daytime solar, and TSV has begun to electrify its vehicle fleet — including snowmobiles.

The Blake Hotel uses geothermal wells and ground source pumps to heat and cool the building. These, along with many other steps, set Taos Ski Valley apart from other ski areas in its commitment to reduce its impact and improve the environment — a goal many of their guests share.

TSV also plays an active role in supporting the community, especially through programs like the Charles

Taos Ski Valley

N. Romero Snowsports Program that encourages Taos Pueblo youth to learn to ski.

Red River Ski and Summer Area

Opening Day — Nov. 23

Red River Ski and Summer Area is located next to the historic town of Red River — founded in 1895. There is a lot of small town charm here and easy access to a ski area with few lift lines and lots of fresh powder. It attracts families looking for a welcoming experience for everyone. For more than 60 years as a family-owned area, Red River has been offering its unique

and affordable skiing experience with wide-open slopes and steep tree runs. Marketing coordinator Reed Weimer says, “There’s a little bit of everything from true beginner runs to the more challenging blues and blacks, including some with bumps. No matter how you ski, the experience is very relaxed. Skiing at Red River feels like a step back in time in the best possible way.”

New snow guns and a groomer are among the improvements that will help Red River get open by Nov. 23, the day before Thanksgiving. Altogether, Red River has 64 trails, seven lifts and more than 200 skiable acres. Add in 214 inches of average snowfall and more than 300 days of sunshine and you have one of the

most pleasurable ski and snowboarding experiences in the West.

Angel Fire Resort

Opening Day — Dec. 16

Since its beginning as a small ski resort in 1966, Angel Fire Resort has become a four-season destination for families. With views of Wheeler Peak, the tallest mountain in New Mexico, visitors can sled, tube, ski, snowboard and snowshoe. A unique offering is night skiing and snowboarding. Be outside in the magic of the starlit sky and ski and ride on 50 acres of groomed slopes. During the holidays, there are torchlight parades to celebrate the season.

Angel Fire Resort

Grande Rio

The Rio Grande is the quintessential fly-fishing experience in Northern New Mexico

Washing down a sandwich with a cold beer on the tailgate of his truck gazing at the Milky Way slung low above the craggy canyons carved from the volcanic rock of the Taos Pueblo — the sound of a steady river below snaking its way to the Gulf of Mexico — Taos local John Nichols, author of “The Milagro Beanfield War” and 18 other books, describes the conclusion of a perfect day fly-fishing on the Rio Grande.

A seasoned hunter, mountain hiker and fly-fisherman, Nichols knows the local alpine tundra and New Mexico’s creeks and rivers like the back of his hand — and he has a fish tale or two to tell, as does his long-time friend and fly-fishing mentor Taylor Streit, founder of the Taos Fly Shop established in 1980 to teach the art of fly-fishing.

Streit is considered to be one of the most insightful anglers in North America. Taylor’s son Nick now owns and operates the Taos Fly Shop while his dad maintains the guiding details of the business. Taylor has authored a few books on the topic, including “Instinctive Fly Fishing: A Guide’s Guide To Better Trout Fishing.” The work is, according to Nichols, “one of the best books ever written on the subject. The first time I fished with Taylor, I was in awe. He catches a fish with nearly every cast, and his technique is flawless.” Streit said the sport is one where you are “completely engaged, you got to be all in. Fly-fishing shifts you out of wherever you started in the morning.”

Taos Fly Shop fishing guide Ian Smuczynski turned up in Taos via Florida following graduation from a prestigious guide school in Montana. Low on cash but sure-footed and crystal clear about where he was headed, he bunked for a time at The Laughing Horse Inn until the Brazos River Lodge in Chama called and offered him a position. After honing his skills on the Chama River, he joined the Taos Fly Shop six years ago to guide full time. He said he’s gleaned the most knowledge not from guide schools but

from experience on rivers and creeks with other fly fisherman. “I think about fly-fishing every waking hour. It is a style of fishing that is much more intimate, more gratifying. Like the hunter who employs a bow and arrow — you’re close and immersed in the details of the natural world.”

Smuczynski revealed hiking down to the Rio Grande is the quintessential Taos fly-fishing adventure. “It is a complete experience, beyond just catching fish. There are beavers and bighorn sheep. Cougar, mule deer, ringtail, elk and prairie dogs. Great blue heron, blue-winged teal, water ouzels, black-crowned night heron, red-tailed hawks, golden eagles, songbirds, ravens and much more — and the river is full of surprises. You either adapt with creativity or the river will rule the day.”

Smuczynski employs a 10-foot-4 weight rod for the Rio Grande, as does his fellow guide at Taos Fly, Chaz Kerger, who said “fly-fishing on the Rio is about the process, you must have an open mind to see what you’re working out. The fish can really humble you. All you can do is try to stay one step ahead.”

Kerger was born and raised in the Southern Rockies. Fishing and outdoor pursuits have always been his passion. “It is not about how many fish you catch, but rather the experience and camaraderie, being immersed in the elements — learning to think and observe what is in front of you. It is unquestionably a lifestyle. Fly-fishing calls for curiosity and a keen intellect. It is not a passive exercise of showing up with the same equipment and approach every time. You must adapt

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End of An Era

Taos Ski Valley ski instructor Bernard ‘Dadou’ Mayer remembered

Legendary Taos Ski Valley ski instructor Bernard “Dadou” Mayer died in August, 2022. He was 82. Mayer followed his brother, Jean Mayer, another larger-than-life denizen of the slopes, from the French Alps to the United States in order to take a job at the Taos Ski Valley in 1958. Jean Mayer, who with the help of his family and several other early ski valley legends, built the Hotel St. Bernard and was the technical director of the Taos Ski School, died in October, 2020.

After firing Dadou Mayer almost immediately from his promised ski instructor job, Taos Ski Valley founder Ernie Blake subsequently rehired the talented young ski racer, who had meanwhile gone to work at the ski area in Red River.

For the next 50 years, the Mayer brothers were fixtures in the ski valley, where Dadou Mayer built and ran his own business, the original Hotel Edelweiss. Later in life, he spent the warmer months in Hawaii, where he operated a small coffee plantation called Dadou’s Dolphins. After a prolonged illness, Dadou Mayer died peacefully in his sleep at his Hawaii home on Aug. 16, said daughter Sonja Mayer Schreiber. She described her father as “full of life, full of friendships and full of stories. He was a lover of everything good and precious; a healer.”

Dadou’s former wife, Ilse Mayer, landed in Taos Ski Valley in 1961, traveling there after a chance encounter with Ernie Blake.

“Ernie was in Switzerland shopping for a chairlift, and my brother was chief engineer for the company, Städeli. They had a party, and that’s where I met Ernie. He immediately invited me to Taos, which no one had heard of at that time.

“He said he was looking for European ski instructors with an accent,” Ilse Mayer recalled, laughing. “A few months later, I was in San Francisco and I sent him a postcard to see if the offer was still good. He wrote back immediately and said ‘Yes, come!’”

The Austrian skier, who had intended to pursue a career in chemistry, met Dadou Mayer shortly after she arrived in the ski valley. The couple married the next fall, in 1962.

Dadou Mayer and Jean Mayer came to Taos Ski Valley in the 1950s to teach skiing. The hats worn in this photo were typical of those required to be worn by all Taos ski instructors in the 1950s and 1960s.

“After the first winter, we decided to build the Edelweiss,” which the pair went on to own and operate for the next 35 years, a partnership that outlasted their “25 wonderful years” of marriage, she said. A couple of years after they sold it in the mid-1990s, the original Hotel Edelweiss burned in a fire.

Ilse Mayer also noted that Dadou Mayer created the original Taos ski racing team. “He was also a pacesetter for NASTAR,” she said. “He was unbeatable at that time.”

Mayer Schreiber said that when her father arrived in 1958, the ski valley was a place of raw beauty — and no amenities.

“It was a different time,” she said, adding that her late-grandparents, Charles and Nicole Mayer, were “so proud” of Dadou’s and Jean’s industriousness. “They started the ski valley from scratch. There were no buildings up there, no road to get there, no electricity or radio — it was all from scratch.

“They created a hotel, with a pool, and had an ice skating rink — 50 years ago,” she continued. “It’s so hard to give people the picture, but it was difficult to do anything at that time. It’s really something amazing, what they created.”

Taos Ski Valley, Inc. vice president and Village of Taos Ski Valley councilor Chris Stagg counted 48 years of friendship with Dadou Mayer, with whom he had also worked.

“We skied a lot together some times, and some times we worked a lot together,” he said. “Both were fun, but particularly to ski with Dadou. Dadou was very creative with his skiing. He was always trying something new with his technique and with the things he did with his students. He took it

seriously, but he also wanted instructors, students and guests to have fun.”

Stagg noted that the sport “wasn’t as organized in the 50s and 60s as it is today, so you really counted on people that had talent and vision and who were able to teach the technique to people. That’s what Jean and Dadou did. They prided themselves on knowing the upper levels of skiing, and they were able to translate that down to mere mortals. And that kept Taos competitive with the other resorts.”

The Mayer brothers didn’t just bring skiing expertise from the French Alps — they brought a class of cuisine and hospitality that set Taos Ski Valley apart from other American ski areas in the 1960s.

Louis Bacon purchased Taos Ski Valley, Inc. from Ernie Blake in 2014, and bought the Hotel St. Bernard last year. But the original “ski pioneers” influence still courses through the ski valley. When the resort’s leadership announced in the fall that the original Hotel St. Bernard was slated to be torn down and rebuilt, the company emphasized the importance of retaining the Mayer brother’s legacy: “A painstaking archiving [...] will allow us to recreate a replica of the dining room and bar in the new build, utilizing the same hearth, the same timbers and placing art in the same places on the walls.”

Stagg said that, above all, he will miss Dadou Mayer’s sparkling but steady personality.

“What I appreciated most with Dadou was his humor,” Stagg said. “He always had a twinkle in his eye. Half the time he was testing you or joking with you, but he was never mean. He always kept you on your toes.”

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Snow Voyagers

Whether you’ve lived in Taos your whole life or you have just arrived, the vast landscape of Taos County will always have something to satisfy your outdoor desires.

Do you ever wonder about winter recreational alternatives? Taos County has plenty of options to get you outside enjoying the beauty of nature during the winter months. Escape the snow while boating, rock climbing, fishing or hiking down along the Rio Grande. Go deep into the mountains and enjoy the silence of the snow-covered hills. Take a short joyful romp on snowshoes or snowshoe up a steep trail for a vigorous workout. How about venturing into the backcountry under your own power, with avalanche beacons, probes and shovels, and find powder hidden deep in the trees?

All of this is possible right here in Taos. You will also find friendly, professional guides available to outfit you with the equipment you’ll need. The varied terrain, elevation and sun aspects in this region create many microclimates throughout the winter months, allowing for all sorts of outdoor options. Look for helpful information and equipment from local outdoor stores like Taos Mountain Outfitters, Mud ’n’ Flood and Cottams.

Do you want to enjoy the majestic beauty and silence of the snow-covered mountains in winter and take a break from the fast pace and people on the ski slopes for a day? Try getting out for a casual half-day snowshoe tour or go deeper into the mountains with a fullday tour.

Maybe you’re looking for more adventure? Get into the backcountry mountains on snowshoes, skis or a snowboard, finding powder stashes in the trees or on the side of a mountain face. If you already have the skills, experience and gear, check in with the Taos Avalanche Center for updates and conditions to get started.

If you are like most of us, you may want a professional guide to take you or teach you the necessary skills. The international outfit Mountain Skills Guides are located right here in Taos, with guides available for 1-hour casual snowshoe strolls or backcountry snowshoe, ski or snowboard adventures.

Do you want to get out of the snowy conditions for a day and enjoy a milder climate? One of the unique aspects of the Taos winter climate is the ability to get from 13,000 feet down to below 6,000 feet in less than 20 miles! This — coupled with nearly 300 sunny days a year and the dry warm southwestern weather — allows visitors and locals alike to enjoy winter conditions one day and T-shirt weather the next.

on page 150
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BUILDING A BETTER FUTURE FOR OUR COMMUNITY Kit Carson’s Accomplishments in 2022


KCEC now has some of the lowest power rates among all NM coops while sifting to more renewable, locally-generated power.




KCEC made the final payment to exit its contract with Tri-State Generation and Transmission. After 12 power rate increases in 13 years using mostly fossil-heavy power, KCEC sought price stability, cost decreases, the ability to serve additional renewable energy resources and to restore local decision-making ability to better serve its member owners. Mission accomplished!

fossil heavy tability, cost to serve additional energy resources and to estore local to better erve its member owners. Mission

KCEC envisions creating a carbon-free climate that will enhance the quality of life for our younger generations while preserving the natural beauty of Northern NM. Acting on this vision, over 40 electric vehicle (EV) charging point stations throughout northern NM have been installed, preparing for the vast adoption of EVs.

The Kit Carson Education Foundation approved over $50,000 for community projects, addressing our communities’ needs and enhancing the quality of life for our members and families.


SAFE We work with our local communities throughout the enchanted circle to ensure their homes, businesses and economies are safe from wildfire.



When The Taos Mesa Solar & back in June, KCEC achieved 100% Solar!

When The Taos Mesa Solar Array & Battery Storage was energized back in June, KCEC achieved 100% Daytime Solar!

2022 OVER ELECTRIC VEHICLE STATIONS creating a carbon-free enhance the quality younger generations the natural beauty of Acting on this vision, over vehicle (EV) charging point throughout northern NM have preparing for the vast GIVEN OVER $50,000 IN COMMUNITY DEVELOPMENT PROJECTS The Kit Carson Education Foundation approved over $50,000 for community projects, addressing our communities’ needs and enhancing the quality of life for our members and families. ONGOING FIRE MITIGATION TO KEEP OUR COMMUNITIES SAFE We work with our local communities throughout the enchanted circle to ensure their homes, businesses and economies are safe from wildfire.
Accomplishments in
Over 500 properties can be found at


from page 145

The highest point in the Taos region — and the state — is Wheeler Peak, at 13,161 feet. The lowest points in the area are in the Rio Grande Gorge near the towns of Pilar and Rinconada. They offer a much milder climate most of the winter. In Taos, it is possible to ski dry mountain powder in the morning, and then be riverside, boating, hiking, or rock climbing in a T-shirt by mid-afternoon.

Confused on where to go or how to get yourself started? The guides with Mountain Skills Adventures have made a lifestyle out of navigating these climate differences during the winter months here in the Taos region. Grab one of them for a multi-day tour of the area, a short morning mountain snowshoe, or an epic guided backcountry ski tour. If you prefer, enjoy the warmer weather with a guided hike or beginner rock climb in the warmer Rio Grande Gorge.

Whichever way your outdoor pleasure tends, you are sure to find plenty of experiences to satisfy your soul here in the Southwest mountain town of Taos.

Mountain Skills Adventures 575-776-2222,

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aspiring athletes — just 3-6 years old.

Taos’ famous ski weeks

Beloved since the resort’s founding in 1955, ski weeks at Taos Ski Valley are the only full-week program in North America and include Children’s Weeks, Private Ski Weeks, and one-time sessions like Race Week and Women’s Week.

The Eis Haus ice-skating rink

Located at the base of the mountain, skate rentals are included, and skating for all levels starts at just $20 for the afternoons, and $25 for evenings.

Dinner sleigh ride

Taking place on Friday and Saturday nights, this unique and fun experience gives family and friends a spectacular way to access the award-winning Bavarian restaurant. Guests relax in a sleigh while they are snow-catted to the mid-mountain restaurant from the main plaza for a three-course prix-fixe dinner, complete with wine. Thick cozy blankets keep the chill at bay, while guests receive an exhilarating and memorable round trip ride under the stars.

The Spa and Wellness Center

According to a TSV press release, the Spa and Wellness Center at The Blake provides the “perfect relaxation destination for a luxurious escape or a post-skiing recovery, featuring: a heated

saltwater pool, multiple outdoor hot tubs with stunning views of the mountain, an oxygen bar, treatment rooms for individuals or couples, a fitness center, a yoga room, a private locker room and steam room for spa guests, a separate locker room and steam room for fitness center guests, and more.”

Edelweiss Lodge and Spa

Located at the base of Taos Ski area, this full service lodge offers visitors upscale ski-in/ski-out vacation rentals, a wellness center and options for dining and Apres-ski, including The Blonde Bear Tavern’s world-class cocktails and award-winning food.

Andean Software

Now celebrating forty years in Taos Ski Valley, this charming shop on the resort plaza sells alpaca sweaters, capes, jewelry and gift items from the Andes Mountains. Owner Andrea Heckman said, “It’s always been about mountains and a love of high places, the remarkable people who live there and create beautiful expressions of their lives in those high mountains.”


Average annual snowfall: 300 inches

Average days of sunshine: 300+

Base elevation: 9,200 feet

Summit elevation: 12,481 feet

Vertical drop: 3,281 feet

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A Hidden Gem

More than 200 years ago, two farmers — brothers from Rio Arriba County — found themselves searching for fertile land to the east of their home. Cristóbal Martínez and José Gregorio Martínez searched for days before finding themselves in a rich and vibrant valley where they planted their crops before building a new home in 1806. When Cristóbal and José Gregorio dug that first hole and dropped in that first seed, the high-desert hamlet of Arroyo Seco was born.

Located near the foot of El Salto Mountain, the small village called Arroyo Seco is just 7 miles north of Taos along NM 150, the main road to Taos Ski Valley. You can always feel the sense of community and creativity in the shops, boutiques, galleries and eateries that line the main street of this picturesque village.

Seco is also home to the well-publicized cooking classes held by James Beardnominated chef Chris Maher. Cooking Studio Taos offers weekly classes that are 100 percent hands-on. After class, you sit down as a group to enjoy your magnificent meal. Call 575-7762665 or visit


Sol Food Market and Café


Located inside a country-style natural foods market, the Sol Food Café has an informal, friendly atmosphere and aims to use natural, organic and local ingredients whenever possible. The cafe is perfect for a healthy meal and a hot cup o’ Joe. The market sells local food and boutique items. Weekends, however, are for brunch at the café with a menu that includes the macadamia nut pancake and a smoked salmon omelet. The award-winning baklava and assortment of other baked goods are staples.

Abe’s Cantina y Cocina


This family-owned and operated establishment is a local and visitor favorite serving up some of the best enchiladas, chicharrones, empanadas (especially the pumpkin) and tamales in Northern New Mexico. The tavern is also a great watering hole and place to hear some gossip, if you’re into that sort of thing.



This modern neighborhood restaurant that consistently gets rave reviews presents an interpretation of comfort food and utilizes the best in local, wild and farm-fresh ingredients. The menu, featuring tasty and technique-driven dishes, includes contemporary takes on old classics, house-made specialties and decadent desserts that change with the seasons.

Sabroso 575-776-3333

Sabroso serves American and global cuisine, and offers guests a fully-stocked bar and wine cellar with live music and a value-priced menu in the piano bar. The bar is often referred to as “Seco's living room.” Dine fireside in the over 150-yearold adobe with fresh-squeezed margaritas, wood-grilled steaks and salmon.

The Wake & Take Café 505-990-0296

Seco’s answer to Vegan foods, specialty coffee drinks, events and consulting. The menu features healthy breakfast and lunch fare such as superfood bowls.

Taos Cow 575-776-5640

Serving all-natural, made in New Mexico ice cream plus coffee, bagels, burritos and more from their new food truck.


Arroyo Seco Mercantile 575-776-8806

Built around 1895, according to local lore, the Arroyo Seco Mercantile building houses an array of goods including antiques, American West vintage items, gifts, santos, Indian trade blankets and much more. It functioned as the area’s general store until the mid-1950s and is worth the visit as much for the history of the area as the wares for sale.

Claire Works 575-776-5175

Owner and award-winning sculptor (and painter) Claire Haye converted her talent into making jewelry in sterling silver, bronze and gold. Her pieces are embedded with symbolism and spirituality that “speak universally to women of all ages and walks of life.”

Fine Art New Mexico 575-776-3899

After years of writing, producing and directing in the film industry, Jack Leustig was searching for “a new, smaller creative journey.” The artistry of printing an image became his passion. In 1998, he opened his print studio and has been producing prints for local artists in small- to large-formats ever since, becoming a premier publisher of

Southwest art and photography. The collection of works for sale is inspiring and impressive.

Logan Wannamaker Pottery


“Logan Wannamaker stands at a whirling pottery wheel and effortlessly shapes a ball of black clay into a cup in seconds. That moment — throwing a pot — is probably the easiest part of his creative process. Behind it are hours of digging, sieving, mixing, hammering, chopping and burning that finally culminate in a one-of-a-kind work of art that uses native materials to mirror the dramatic Northern New Mexico landscape,” wrote J.R. Logan for the Taos News.



A charming women’s clothing boutique carrying accessories, jewelry and housewares, including hand woven purses from Bali, natural silk dyed scarves, cards with images by local artist Gail Russell, reversible swing skirts by Joan Besley, natural jute hats, rattan hand fans and some incredibly comfortable Italian cottons and linens.

Parse Seco


Parse Seco is an experimental creative space that provides a platform for artists, musicians and creators to present experiences in an intimate setting or in other words, “using art to reform the social norm.” The venue has hosted live concerts, open mic nights, art openings, poetry readings and more. Check its events calendar on Facebook.

Rottenstone Pottery


Rottenstone Pottery specializes in unique ceramic art made in the ancient tradition of wood-firing. Scott Rottenstone’s wares combine an Eastern Wabi Sabi aesthetic with the functional formal considerations of American folk craft pottery.

Santos y Más 575-776-2088

Santos y Mas is where to go for the area’s best selection of handcrafted Northern New Mexico folk art and colorful, whimsical gifts and collectibles. You can’t help but smile.


The Snow Mansion 575-776-8298,

Sometimes referred to as a ski lodge with campsites, the concept of the SnowMansion is based on the hostel — a popular, inexpensive type of lodging conceived in Europe that consists of sociable accommodations where guests can rent a bed in a dormitory-style room and share a bathroom, lounge and sometimes (as guests do at the SnowMansion) have use of the kitchen. For many years, the SnowMansion has been a popular, comfortable and cozy, budget-friendly place to stay for skiers, boarders and winter’s weary travelers.


The Soul of Taos

New Mexico has a long and storied history — only becoming a state in 1912. Prior to annexation of the region by the U.S. in 1846, the area was “ruled” for nearly 300 years by Spain, and then, Mexico.


But going back more than 1,000 years, the Red Willow people of Taos Pueblo have called this place at the base of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains home. It’s, in fact, the oldest continually inhabited community in the U.S. (it’s actually a sovereign nation), and in 1992, Taos Pueblo was admitted to the Heritage Society as one of the most significant historical cultural landmarks in the world, making it a World Heritage Site by UNESCO and a National Historic Landmark.

The Pueblo was closed to the public at the start of the pandemic in the spring of 2020, but reopened in the fall of 2022.


Unchanged and unmatched in wonder and drama, Taos Pueblo holds the annual Procession of the Virgin Mary celebration on Christmas Eve. The scent of burning ocote wood fills the dark winter air and gunshots ring out as part of the tradition of welcoming La Nocha Buena (The Good Night) and La Navidad (Christmas).

Once the riflemen signal the birth of Christ, a procession including drummers, dancers and singers returns a statue of Mary to the historic San Geronimo Chapel. And on Christmas day, visitors are invited to respectfully observe the day’s celebrations.


Visit often, and make your way around this historic place and the many unique shops within featuring Native-made handcrafted works from jewelry to pottery to paintings. The tribe takes extra care to be certain that all arts and crafts sold are Native-made, and all sales are tax-free.


Taking a guided tour at Taos Pueblo is highly recommended. Tours touch on the highlights of the culture, history and people of the region. Tours last about 30 minutes. The pueblo takes seriously its rules and regulations, which visitors must abide by. It’s prohibited to take photographs of tribal members without their permission, as well as the San Geronimo Chapel. Any photographs taken must be for personal use only. 575-758-1028


Winter in the Pines

Just over the snow-capped peaks, past the deep frozen valleys, and across the untouched plains to the east lies Angel Fire. Appropriately named by the nomadic Moache Utes who congregated there in the spring and fall to renew their ancestral ties with the Great Spirit, Angel Fire has been known for centuries as a place unlike any other — a place to nd heaven on Earth. When the Utes looked up from their valley home at the ickering sun radiating from the tip of Agua Fría (Cold Water) Peak, they labeled the place the “ re of the gods.”

Today, the majesty of Angel Fire remains its hallmark, as it has for thousands of years. But the area has also become a destination for families to venture out in the snow. Descending into the Moreno Valley, travelers know they are in for an amazing time at a winter paradise.

The history

The idea for the Angel Fire Ski Resort was born in the mid-1960s during an unassuming, typical family Sunday dinner. Wichita Falls, Kansas transplant and cattle rancher George LeBus made the comment to his father, Roy, that they should install a tow rope on their 25,000acre spread in the Sangre de Cristo mountain range so they wouldn't have to drive so far to enjoy one of their favorites pastimes — skiing.

Roy ran with the idea. By the winter of 1967, Roy LeBus’ vision of a ski resort became a reality. A community sprang up around the ski area and the Angel Fire Chamber of Commerce was founded in December 1982. The town was incorporated as the Village of Angel Fire in 1986.

The fun

The popular family-friendly destination opens this season on Dec. 16. It now boasts 80 Alpine trails and seven lifts, plus more than 12km of groomed crosscountry and snowshoeing trails at the Nordic Center.

For advanced skiers the Bear, Elk, Shane’s and Eagle glades comprise the four tree-trail areas covering 30 acres.

In addition to skiing and boarding, Angel Fire is an excellent tubing choice. Dubbed the Polar Coaster, this four-lane groomed tubing hill sends riders down 1,000 feet of sliding bliss. There is also a family snow play hill for sledding just outside the Country Club. Sleds and discs may be rented at the Nordic Center

To con rm hours of operation, call the Nordic Center at 575-377-4488.


Average annual snowfall: 210 inches

Average days of sunshine: 300+ Base elevation: 8,600 feet

Summit elevation: 10,677 feet

Vertical drop: 2,077 feet


Request a copy of our 2022 winter visitor guide at angel


In its Element

For a winter wonderland like Eagle Nest, nature is always awe-inspiring. Even after the summer sun has cooled and the fall leaves have dropped, the forests and open spaces in and around Eagle Nest are teeming with Northern New Mexico wildlife.

The valley’s elk herd is the star of this wintertime show. Year-round, several thousand elk inhabit the mountain-skirt forests on both sides of the valley. Cows, calves and younger bulls hang together in one group, while the bulls form bachelor herds.

Throughout the West, the mule deer population has declined severely in recent decades, and the Moreno Valley herd is no exception. A high bear population and the lack of food sources, like shrubs and sunflowers, have put pressure on the herd. There are, however, still plenty of deer in the Colin Neblett Wildlife Area east of the valley.

The area around Eagle Nest Lake is also prime habitat for birds. Anyone who stops by in the summer will likely see ducks, geese, crows and magpies, a heron or osprey and, with luck, a golden eagle — for which the lake is named.

In the winter, the native flock thins with migration. However, a number of species overwinter, varying each year with the severity of the weather. These resident species either never leave the area or they fly in from the north for a milder winter in the Moreno Valley.

Eagle Nest attracts a lot of water fowl who migrate down from the Dakotas after breeding. Also, there are more hawks, especially red tails, who come in for the winter now. You’ll also see resident Cooper’s hawks and northern Goshawks. Depending upon the severity of the winter, a number of raptors will stick around — including eagles on the north end of the valley. Corvids — crows, magpies, ravens and turkey vultures — roam the Moreno Valley year-round looking for food.

Smaller birds, like songbirds, proliferate all year. Sparrows, juncos, chickadees and others all pick off insects and chow down on backyard feeders to stay alive through

the winter. Blue grouse overwinter under the cover of conifer forests, particularly on the slopes of Touch-Me-Not Mountain.

Rather be fishing

No matter the season, anglers venture to “The Home of the Browns” in hopes of snagging a trout (rainbow, brown and cutthroat), perch or Kokanee salmon. Eagle Nest Lake is regularly stocked and thus is a popular ice fishing spot for good reason. In late January, the village hosts an ice fishing tournament with cash and door prizes. And for the cold-hardy, the town hosts an annual Polar Bear Plunge at the lake on New Year’s Day.

Don’t let the population of less than 300 or quiet of the town fool you — there are plenty of unique shops to browse and great places to grab a bite to eat along the main street.

For more information, visit or

Lower Eagle Nest Lake Trail

A 5.5-mile lightly-trafficked out-and-back trail located near Angel Fire that features a lake and is good for all skill levels. The trail offers a number of activity options. Dogs are also able to use this trail but must be kept on leash.

Cimarron Canyon State Park

The Cimarron River flows through this narrow, forested canyon, located near Eagle Nest on the Enchanted Circle Scenic Byway. The park offers beautiful views, interesting geology, quiet camping, fly fishing, hiking and equestrian trails. The wildlife viewing opportunities are amazing, as the park sits at the center of the Colin Neblett Wildlife Management Area.


Small Town USA

Red River is a picturesque small town with one main street and practically the entire town is on it: shops, restaurants, motels and local businesses — even the ski resort is a short walk from Main Street.

Visitors enjoy diverse winter activities including downhill skiing/ snowboarding, X-country skiing/ snowshoeing, snowmobiling and more. Sightseeing is a given. You are pretty much guaranteed to see some form of wildlife during your stay.

Red River snowmobilers have miles of groomed trails all the way up Sawmill Canyon to the 11,249-foot Greenie Peak. The Valle Vidal is a 100,000-acre wildlife tract with a 50-mile loop from Sawmill Canyon. The Upper Red River Valley is another favorite haunt where snowmobilers like to take the switchbacked road leading to Middle Fork Lake.

Snowshoeing and Cross-County skiing, The Enchanted Forest Cross Country Area is New Mexico’s largest full-service XC Ski and Snowshoe area. With more than 35km of ski trails and 18km of snowshoe trails and access to more than six miles of backcountry trails, you can find fun at the top of Bobcat Pass for all ages! CONTACT

Red River tourism



Annual average snowfall: 214 inches

Average days of sunshine: 300+

Base elevation: 8,750 feet

Peak elevation: 10.350 feet

Vertical drop: 1,600 feet

Enchanted Forest Cross Country Area 575-754-6112
River Ski & Summer Area 575-754-2223
GuidedsnowmobiletoursinthebeautifulCarson NationalForest.Enjoymilesofscenicwindingtrails, largeopenmeadows,andspectacularmountainviews. RedRiver’soldestandmostexperiencedsnowmobile tourcompany. •Wellmaintainedequipment •Extremelycompetitivepricing •Winter outerwear available 616WESTMAINSTREET•REDRIVER,NM redriversledshed.com800.395.0121575.754.6370

Gateway to Enchantment

Less than an hour from Taos and sitting at 7,500 feet elevation, Questa is the northern gateway to the Enchanted Circle Scenic Byway, which surrounds Wheeler Peak, the highest summit in the state. Questa is one in a long chain of tiny towns that popped up along the Rio Grande from what is now Mexico into southern Colorado in the 18th and 19th centuries.

Rio Grande del Norte National Monument

What the locals know is that access to the Rio Grande del Norte National Monument, just west of Questa, never closes. The monument is comprised of rugged, wide-open plains at an average elevation of 7,000 feet, dotted by volcanic cones, and cut by steep canyons with rivers tucked away in their depths. The Rio Grande carves an 800-foot-deep gorge through layers of volcanic basalt flows and ash. Among the volcanic cones in the monument, Ute Mountain is the highest, towering 10,093 feet above the surrounding valleys.

Rinconada Loop Trail

If you wake up to snow, throw your crosscountry skis in the car and head for the Rinconada Loop Trail in the Rio Grande del Norte National Monument for 6 miles of flat skiing with stunning gorge views. The trail can be entered at any of the campground parking lots and it’s easy to create smaller loops to match your time or stamina.

Hiking into the gorge in this Wild Rivers area of the national monument is a favorite Taos outing. On a clear winter day, these steep 1-mile-trails are a pleasure, with the reward of a sparkling river and hidden petroglyphs.

Columbine Canyon

On the other side of Questa are trails along NM 38 toward the town of Red River. Columbine Canyon is not only a favorite for dry-weather hiking, but is a wonderful place to strap on your snowshoes and trek as near or far as your heart desires. The higher altitude here and thick surrounding pines hold the

snowpack well, and a whitetail deer may await you in the meadows.

San Antonio de Padua Church

In the heart of town is the San Antonio de Padua Church, which was built soon after the permanent village was established in 1842. This historic adobe structure underwent an all-volunteer renovation and was reconsecrated. Artists and craftspeople have been at work in Questa for hundreds of years. Devotion refined the artistry, and continues to do so, as evidenced in the artful restoration of the church.

Cabresto Canyon

The 10-mile round trip to Heart Lake, starting from the Cabresto Lake parking lot, is a beautiful favorite. Carson National Forest drapes around the east side of Questa and offers many trails and campsites.

Skiing across country

When the snow arrives in Questa, the trails convert from mountain biking to cross country skiing and snowshoeing. The flatter trails at Wild Rivers do not hold the snow for long, but are stunning to

play on while they do!

According to, “Cabresto Canyon is at a higher elevation with more tree coverage. The road is plowed only to the end of the residences; beyond that, snowmobiles can zip through glistening meadows.

Fishing through ice

“The last few winters have brought a couple extended bouts of extreme cold; and the ice-fisherman welcome this chance to stay close to home and fish our small Eagle Rock Lake right in town or venture up to Cabresto Lake,” said the Questa Community website.


Village of Questa 575-586-0694

Questa tourism 575-586-2258

Carson National Forest Ranger Station 575-586-0520

BLM Wild Rivers Visitors Center 575-586-1150

DISCOVERTAOS.COM WINTER/SPRING 2023 167 L H L 575-586-0419 575-586-0561 Visit s or all yo r ard to nd seasonal ontra tin and o e repair needs e ave t e e perien e to et t e ob done wit o r a ily o stores ersonali ed servi e is o r n ber one priority Questa Lumber & Hardware Concerts, Rodeos, Fiestas and everything Taos.

NOV. 18-DEC. 24

Taos Folk 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Stables Art Gallery

Taos Folk brings local artists out to the local community, and features a dizzying variety of affordable one-of-a-kind handmade arts, crafts and gifts for everyone on your list, including jewelry, aprons, t-shirts, soaps, candles, pottery, sculptures, ceramics, greeting cards, magnets, hats, knitted sweaters, scarves, shawls, pillows, prayer flags and wall hangings.

DEC. 2

Yuletide Tree Lighting 4-7 p.m. Taos Plaza 575-751-2037

The 2022 Town of Taos Christmas Season officially kicks off with the lighting of the Town Christmas tree during the 36th Annual Yuletide Tree Lighting event on the Historic Taos Plaza.

Join Mayor Pascual Maestas, our Town Council and the community of Taos at this annual event. The Historic Taos Plaza transforms into a winter wonderland with local entertainment, appearances from Mr. and Mrs. Claus and the Grinch, and complimentary hot chocolate and cookies.

DEC. 2-25

Farolito Lighting 575-751-2037

Farolitos are scheduled to be lit at the Historic Taos Plaza for 24 evenings during the Christmas Holiday Season starting Friday, Dec. 2. Thanks to all the businesses, organizations

and families participating, we are able to give our community and visitors a season filled with lights of love and holiday cheer.

DEC. 2

Lighting of Ledoux 5-7 p.m.

Ledoux Street 575-758-9826

Watch historic Ledoux Street come aglow with the light of farolitos, luminaries and bonfires as the community gathers to enjoy warm holiday treats and hot drinks from the galleries, shops and museums that stay open late for this annual Taos holiday tradition.

DEC. 9

Taos Chamber Music Group Winter Scenes with Gleb Ivanov 5:30 p.m. Harwood Museum of Art Taoschambermusicgroup. org

The astonishingly talented pianist, Gleb Ivanov, is featured in a recital of solo piano works that includes Tchaikovsky’s Dumka in C Minor, Op. 59 (Scenes from a Russian village), Rachmaninoff’s Sonata No.1 in D minor, Respighi’s Notturno, Ravel’s Jeux d’eau and, festively capping it all off, Grünfeld’s Soirée de Vienne, a paraphrase on Johann Strauss’s Fledermaus. Gleb Ivanov, piano.

DEC. 10

Bonfires on Bent Street Bent Street

The John Dunn Shops and Bent Street Merchants offer

holiday cheer, with bonfires and farolitos lighting the way for carolers and shoppers to enjoy hot beverages, entertainment and festivities. Shops will be decked out with holiday décor and visitors can expect a magical evening.

DEC. 10-11

Taos Chamber Music Group Journey Into Winter 5:30 p.m. Harwood Museum of Art Taoschambermusicgroup. org

A program replete with sparkle and sorrow features pianist Gleb Ivanov with TCMG musicians in Sergei Rachmaninoff’s Six Morceaux Op. 11 for piano four hands, Philippe Gaubert’s Flute Sonata #2 and Bedřich Smetana’s impassioned Piano Trio in G minor, Op. 15. Gleb Ivanov and Kim Bakkum, piano; LP How, violin; Sally Guenther, cello; Nancy Laupheimer, flute.

DEC. 16

Ornament and Craft Making 1-4 p.m.

Taos Youth & Family Center  575-751-2037

Christmas is coming and the Town of Taos would like to help children of all ages create Christmas ornaments for their Christmas tree or to give as presents. The free event will feature Mrs. Claus and her elves, and will be held at the Taos Youth & Family Center (407 Paseo del Canon East). An adult must accompany children under the age of eight. Materials and examples will be provided — just bring your imagination!

DEC. 24

Procession of the Virgin Mary Taos Pueblo

Unchanged and unmatched in wonder and drama, Taos Pueblo holds the annual Procession of the Virgin Mary celebration on Christmas Eve. The scent of burning ocote wood fills the dark winter air and gunshots ring out as part of the tradition of welcoming La Nocha Buena (The Good Night) and La Navidad (Christmas).

Once the riflemen signal the birth of Christ, a procession including drummers, dancers and singers returns a statue of Mary to the historic San Geronimo Chapel. And on Christmas day, visitors are invited to respectfully observe the day’s celebrations.

DEC. 31

New Year’s Eve Torchlight Parades and Fireworks

Taos Ski Valley, Angel Fire, Sipapu and Red River ski resorts skiers carry lights down the slopes for a magical winter celebration. Watch the procession, repleat with fireworks, and enjoy hot beverages with friends and family. For more information, visit any of the ski resorts’ websites.

JAN. 28-29

Taos Chamber Music Group New Pathways with Hub New Music     5:30 p.m.

Harwood Museum of Art   Taoschambermusicgroup. org

Call for a reservation 575.776.0900 @aceqrestaurant |

Elevated Dining in Taos

ACEQ Restaurant is not only Taos’s hidden gem when it comes to elevated dining, but it’s the unique brain child of Head Chef Elijah Sa ord. Sa ord started at the restaurant in 2019 before he acquired it in 2021 and immediately started reworking the menu.

Located in the heart of Arroyo Seco, ACEQ o ers elevated modern American cuisine with a friendly atmosphere, fantastic wine list, great beers, and now a full bar!

A er only serving beer and wine since its opening, the restaurant can now boast cra cocktails on the menu. ey have a wonderfully curated cocktail collection by industry veterans.

ACEQ’s dining menu sources all local meat and wild caught seafood. When reading the menu you might be questioning what “Wangus Steaks” are… Domestic American Wagyu bull crossed with a Black Angus cow gives you Wangus, grass fed, ranch raised and New Mexican. e Bison and seafood seen on the menu is sourced from Beck and Bulow butcher shop. Not only do they ranch bison here in New Mexico but they source wild caught Alaskan sh. e menu has options for all dietary restrictions and uses the best ingredients available.

Elijah’s passion for the culinary arts doesn’t end with him… his younger sister has been dedicated to pastry arts and has been working on boosting ACEQ’s pastry and dessert o erings over the past 3 years. She has recently set out to hone her skills at the Culinary School for Pastry Arts in Austin, Texas. Once she returns from school you can expect an even more impressive dessert menu.

ACEQ is a truly unique gem that is fueled by a passion for quality and is driven to support other local business. Stop by ACEQ for an elevated dining experience you won’t forget.

Head Chef Elijah Sa ord

Nambé Taos at 109 North Plaza, Taos, NM 87571 - P: 575-758-8221

Nambé Taos at 109 North Plaza, Taos, NM 87571 - P: 575-758-8221

Nambé Pojoaque 90 Cities of Gold Road, Santa Fe, NM 87506 - P: 505-455-2731

Nambé Pojoaque 90 Cities of Gold Road, Santa Fe, NM 87506 - P: 505-455-2731