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Bringing you sewing inspiration for 20 years February 2015




We love romantic fabrics!

Days Out and About! Lovely Dashwood ‘Annali’ backpack

gorgeous projects for everyone

Sewing creatively with Vilene

Jaunty A-line skirt

Highland Fling cushion

Issue 228 £5.99

Foxy hotty bottle cover

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Hello W

hat a great issue we’ve got for you this month with two great garment makes – plus-size readers will enjoy our relaxed knit top for their spring wardrobe and new contributor, Victoria, makes her lovely A-line skirt with contrast pockets, suitable for any shape figure. We’ve also got some cosy projects for your home including the cutest foxy hot water bottle cover and a contemporary cushion in a tartan style, which I adore! I hope you enjoy our romantic selection of fabrics for Valentine’s Day makes too.

Julie Briggs

We’ve got 100 packed pages again this month – offering you more content and techniques you’ll love to learn. We continue with the Masterclass series, this month focussing on hems. What a comprehensive sewing course for beginners and sewing refreshers! It’s the end of the popular Vilene series and we’re going out with a bang and a four-page article on using Vilene creatively – look out for the great giveaway prize bundles too! I am very pleased to welcome Kerry Green, of VeryKerryBerry, to our new column – The Final Thread – where she will share her latest finds and pearls of wisdom on our favourite hobby. I also want to introduce Aimee, our new editorial assistant, who is replacing Rosa as she goes off to the ski slopes of Europe and I wish both of them well in their new roles. Until March, wrap up and keep on sewing!

PS For those of you who love your iPad and Smartphones, Sewing World magazine is available to download as an app from apps stores or for home computers, click on For digital readers, the patterns for all the makes are free to download from the Sewing World website. Don’t forget to visit us on Facebook and visit Sewing World’s website (

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Contents February 2015



Sew something amazing today!




Techniques & features

3 Hello! 6 Go Shopping! 10 News 12 The Fabric Stash 80 Creative Clippings 88 Bookshelf 90 Ready, Get Set, Sew! 91 Giveaway Coupon 97 Coming Next Month 98 The Final Thread

60 Sew Smart with Vilene – Part 6 – Sewing Creatively 64 Pattern of the Month – Simplicity 4236 Subscribe to 66 Sewing Connections Sewing World today 68 Fabric Showcase – Get all Romantic! and receive your 70 Knits Know-How – Part 4 free Lewis & Irene 74 Zinnia by Colette Patterns – Review fabric roll 78 A Crafty Sale – Selling at Craft Fairs – Part 2 84 Masterclass – Sewing Skills – Hems

Turn to page 24 for details


February 2015 Sewing World

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Projects 16 Out and About Backpack

21 Easy to Wear! Draped knit top


26 Play and Paintbrushes! Kids’ play apron 30 Hot Fox! Hot water bottle cover

36 Urban Roads Modern clutch bag

40 Luxury Laundry Liberty laundry bag and lavender sachets

44 Jaunty A-Line A-line skirt

48 Highland Fling Tartan inspired cushion

52 Floral Fancy Vase sleeve

54 Dresden Delight Zipped wallet Digital readers – free downloadable patterns are available at


Editor Julie Briggs Editorial Assistant Aimee Beard Contributors Josie Day, Christine Down, Fiona Duggan, Susan Dunlop, Kerry Green, Vick Guthrie, Pauline Hull, Emily Levey, Vanessa Mooncie, Lou Orth, Fiona Pullen, Debbie Shore, Laura Strutt, Angela Venn, Victoria Walker, Wendy Ward Managing Director Tony Stephenson Operations Director Tom Stephenson Design and Production Manager Nick Powell Magazine Design and layout Katy Evans Styling & Photography Julie Briggs, Aimee Beard and Tom Sochacki Advertising & Trade Sales Michelle Lazenby tel: 01684 588534 Email: Advertising Copy Control Cindi Griffiths tel: 01684 588517 email: Printer Warners plc Newsstand Distribution Seymour Distribution Ltd. (020 7429 4000) Craft Trade Distribution Traplet Publications Limited (01684 588568) US Distribution Traplet Distribrution USA Ltd., 816 N. Country Fair Drive, Suite 5 Champaign, Illinois 61821 Tel: 217-355-2970 Fax: 217-954-0472 email: Australian Distribution Traplet Publications and Hobbies, P.O. Box 501, Engadine, NSW 2233, Australia. Tel: (02) 9520 0933 Fax: (02) 9520 0032 email: South African Distribution Traplet Publications South Africa (PTY) Ltd, P.O. Box 1067, Oudtshoorn, 6620, South Africa Tel/Fax: +27 44 272 5978 email: Published by Traplet Publications Limited, Traplet House, Pendragon Close, Malvern, Worcestershire,WR14 1GA, England. Tel: 01684 588599, Fax: 01684 578558 email: Subscriptions 1 Year subscription prices: UK £71.88 Worldwide £98.28 Europe £94.68 USA & Canada US $159.24 Check out 2 Years subscription prices: page 24 for our UK £143.76 Worldwide £196.56 Europe £189.36 latest subscription USA & Canada US $318.48 offers! Back Issues UK £4.95/US $11.99 Customer Service: 01684 588500 Order Hotline: 01684 588599 Online Ordering: This publication is printed by Warners 01778 395111


This magazine is sold subject to the following conditions: that it shall not without written consent of the publishers be lent, resold or otherwise disposed of by way of trade in excess of the recommended maximum retail price. All rights strictly reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any way without the prior agreement of the publisher. All letters must be accompanied by the sender’s full name and address. The publisher cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited correspondence nor some of the opinions expressed. All material and artwork originated by Traplet Publications Ltd., photographs, drawings, plans used in this magazine become the publishers copyright under Copyright law. Some photographs may have been digitally re-mastered. The Company reserves the right to suspend or refuse any advertisements without giving reasons. Whilst every care is taken to avoid mistakes, Traplet Publications Ltd. cannot be liable in any way for errors or omissions. Nor can the Publisher accept any responsibility for the bona fides of advertisers. © Traplet Publications Limited 2015 ISSN 1352-013X

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Regulars Backyard Birds If you love appliqué and birds together, then you will want to make all 12 of these endearing blocks featuring robins, cardinals, orioles, and other feathered friends from the back yard. Designed in the lively ‘Piece O’ Cake’ style by Linda Jenkins and Becky Goldsmith, these blocks are bursting with fresh colours and are easy enough to be fun for stitchers of all levels. The pattern pack includes a 16-page instruction booklet and full-size patterns for 12 blocks, plus appliqué borders, that make a 52" x 65" quilt and instructions for a four block 39" x 39" quilt. Or mix and match your favourite blocks as you please!



Backyard Birds pattern pack priced at £11.99

Inspired to Make Tel: 01684 588599

Go Shopping!

Wherever you ays see the giveaw rn tu se ea pl l, symbo d tick to page 91 an for x the relevant bo your chance to win!

Shakespeare’s Ladies We are big fans of ‘Sew Me Something’, a wonderful sewing emporium based in Stratford upon Avon and we adore these three latest patterns, all named after female characters from the Bard’s greatest plays. There’s Peaseblossom – a knit t-shirt with variations in the neckline; Rosalind – possibly the most comfortable pyjamas in the world; and Portia – low-waisted hipster trousers with patch pockets that would suit aspiring Katherine Hepburns! All the patterns are very clearly printed on high quality paper and come in sizes 8 – 22. Full sewing instructions with lots of hints and tips too! Peaseblossom priced at £12.99; Portia priced at £13.99; Rosalind priced at £14.99

Sew Me Something Tel: 01789 330 588




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Regulars Brother adds to Innov-is range Brother has launched six new sewing, quilting and embroidery machines to their popular Innov-is series. There is a new top of the range model – the Innov-is XV – complete with a scan and stippling function that’s great for sewers who love to turn their own drawings into intricate patterns without using a PC. The other new models – the Innov-is NV2600, Innov-is NV800E (embroidery only machine), Innov-is NV1800Q, Innov-is NV1300 and Innovis NV1100 – all offer Brother’s usual range of high-quality features. They have also updated the PE-Design 10 embroidery software that now includes new and improved features. Innov-is XV priced at £6,499; NV2600 priced at £1,999; NV800E priced at £1,299; NV1800Q priced at £1,299; NV1300 priced at £899; NV1100 priced at £749; PE-Design 10 priced at £999


Fergus and Philippa


Who can resist these adorable foxy friends, Fergus and Philippa from Corinne Lapierre? Available in kit form for you to make up yourself, you KITS can choose from a seaside, school, winter or bedtime outfit; one of your choice is included in the kit. The kit will make either a Fergus or a Philippa – but let’s be honest, you’d really have to make both! Each kit is packaged in a sturdy box and you can purchase the extra outfits to dress your lovely foxes to your heart’s content. Fergus and Philippa kits priced at £13.20; additional outfits priced at £6 each

Corinne Lapierre

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Product spotlight Mettler Poly Sheen® Threads If you’re looking for a decorative thread that is strong but beautiful at the same time, then look no further than Mettler’s Poly Sheen® range. Due to the blend of polyester threads giving a 50% stronger resistance to breaking than rayon, these threads are very easy to use and don’t break easily. I often use the self-threading function on my Janome ‘Horizon’ machine and some threads shred easily when using this feature as you pull the thread through the needle – the Poly Sheen® threads did not shred at all, which takes away the frustration! The threads have a wonderful sheen and brilliance, perfect for decorative embroidery on a project or machine quilting. The range of colours is huge with 435 delicious colours to coordinate with your special project and you can buy them in 200m or 800m reels. There will be no limit to your creativity! Mettler Poly Sheen® threads are priced at £1.90 for a 200m reel; £4.20 for a 800m reel


Love Liberty Everyone loves a bit of Liberty and Alice Caroline has created some wonderful kits using the iconic Liberty of London tana lawn fabrics. The ‘Evening Star Cushion Kit’ and ‘Make Up Coin Purse Kit’ would be perfect presents or to make for yourself. The gorgeous ‘Liberty Loopi Scarf Kit’ gives the maker a beautiful piece to wear. All the kits include the materials and easy to follow instructions. Alice Caroline also has a selection of patterns ranging from quilt patterns to pretty bags.



Evening star cushion kit priced at £14.95; Make up coin purse kit priced at £14.95; Liberty scarf kit priced at £19 Alice Caroline


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David Drummond Edinburgh EH12 5HD Elgin Sewing Centre Keith AB55 5HF N J Sewing Polmont FK2 0UF Pembertons Sewing Machines Stirling FK8 1HA Quilt Creations Inverness IV1 1EP

North East

Singer Sewing Centre Whitley Bay NE26 2SY Tully Sewing Machines Sunderland SR1 3JG The Fat Quarters Newcastle upon Tyne NE17 7TN UK Sewing Machines Darlington DL3 7JY

North West

Bamber Sewing Machines Ltd Eccles M30 7HY Cumbria Sewing Barrow in Furness LA14 1DS Hobkirks Sewing Machines Limited Blackburn BB2 2AJ Hobkirks Sewing Machines Limited Bury BL9 0LQ Lord’s Sew Knit Centre Accrington BB5 3DE New Generation Isle of Man IM9 6AQ R&T Machines (Domestic Sales) Blackburn BB1 2AL Superior Sewing Centre Cumbria CA3 8PW Temptations Lancaster LA2 7HQ

Yorkshire & Humberside

Gillies Fabrics York YO1 8SW Grimsby Sewing & Knitting Grimsby DN32 9DR Howdens Huddersfield HD1 6BL Sewing Machines and Crafts Keighley BD21 1AD Woodseats Sewing Machines Ltd Sheffield S8 0RY


Brewers Wolverhampton WV2 3AF Binders Sewing Centre Peterborough PE 5BA Couling Sewing Machines Lincoln LN5 8AN Craft Central Burton On Trent DE14 3QZ Creative Hands 2 Worcester WR1 2LU DC Nutt Sewing Machines Walsall WS3 3SS E L Grain Nottingham NG6 8UY F L Nutt Sewing Machines Birmingham B14 7AA GSUK Nottingham NG2 3DE GUR Enterprise (UK) Ltd Birmingham B19 3QN L & M Nutt Sewing Machines Birmingham B73 5BS Sewing Machine Centre Shrewsbury SY1 1XJ

East Anglia

Sew Creatively.

Beccles Sewing Machines Beccles NR34 9TB Bedford Sew & Knit Limited Bedford MK41 7LE Franklins Group Limited Colchester C02 7DU Franklins Group Limited Ipswich IP1 3EL Franklins Group Limited Chelmsford CM2 0LG Sew Creative Bury St Edmonds IP33 1NE Sew Creative Cambridge CB1 1LD Sew Creative Norwich Norwich NR3 1LE Sewing Machine World Kings Lynn PE30 5DD Sew Northampton Northampton NN1 4DX


J & B Sewing Machine Co Ltd Newport NP19 4SY Sewing Machine Direct Wrexham LL12 0PJ

South East

The Innov-is 55 sewing machine is the perfect choice to get more creative with your sewing. Feature packed with a wide selection of stitches, button hole styles and lettering. • Easy automatic needle threading • Quick set drop in bobbin • Drop feed • Start/Stop button • Slide speed control • Combine & Save stitch patterns

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Art of Sewing Eastleigh SO50 5LD Ashford Sewing Centre Ashford TN23 1JH Brighton Sewing Centre Brighton BN1 1YD C & A Sewing Machines Ltd Cranleigh GU6 8NE CCB Sewing Machines Rochester ME1 1HS Cooper Sewing Machines Ltd Borehamwood WD6 1FJ Dowlings Wickford SS11 8YJ Eastleigh Sewing Centre SO50 5LD Fareham Sewing Fareham PO16 0EH GTS Sewing Machines Banbury OX16 9PQ Lewisham & Deptford S/Mcs London SE8 3NT Maidstone Sewing Centre Maidstone ME14 1ED Regent Sewing and Knitting Ltd Ilford IG1 2AG Rona Sewing Machines Waltham Cross EN8 7BX Sew Devine Reading RG6 1JQ The Sewing Centre Battersea SW11 3BP The Sewing Shop Canterbury CT1 2HX Tysons Sewing Machines Limited Southall UB1 3DA Tysons Sewing Machines Limited Hounslow TW3 1NW Woking Sewing & K/M Centre Woking KT15 3NY

South West

Bredons Taunton TA1 3NB Caffle Crafts Weston Super Mare BS24 6SE Direct Sewing Machines Redruth TR15 2BY Exeter Sewing Machine Company Exeter EX1 2LD Franklins Group Limited Salisbury SP2 7SU Stewart’s House of Fabric Wareham BH20 4AG The Stitch Academy Taunton TA1 1NZ

01315 397 766 01542 887 000 01324 711 333 01786 462 993 01463 719 369

0191 2525 825 0191 5657 995 01207 565 728 01325 463 630

01617 077 786 01229 823 714 01254 693 555 01617 644 450 01254 389 171 01624 836 301 01254 520 63 01228 599 88 01524 261 868

01904 626 244 01472 343 921 01484 516 700 01535 609 466 0114 255 2822

01902 458 885 01733 340 449 01522 521 841 01283 568 857 01905 249 40 01922 497 603 0115 927 1155 0121 444 3978 0115 844 8000 0121 359 7440 0121 373 5497 01743 343 902

01502 714 234 01234 217 096 01206 563 955 01473 221 188 01245 346 300 01284 755 459 01223 350 691 01603 305 888 01553 773 362 01604 637 200

01633 284 646 08000 925 215

02380 650 808 01233 620 948 01273 621 653 01483 267 777 01634 841 597 02082 361 520 01268 562 022 02380 650 808 01329 234 641 01295 701 384 02086 921 077 01622 670 254 02084 780 669 01992 640 250 01189 268 664 0207 2283 022 01227 457 723 0208 5741 750 0208 5706 790 01932 352 958

01823 272 450 01934 838 327 01209 216 942 01392 275 660 01722 554 466 01929 551 191 07547 006 618

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NEWS NEWS NEWS N Get the latest

What’s going on in the world of sewing…

Mettler Threads welcome Tilly as new sewing educator Tilly Walnes, TV sewing educator and contestant on the first series of ‘The Great British Sewing Bee’ is now working with Amann Group Mettler products. Tilly’s business is geared towards sewing education, running sewing workshops and step-by-step guides to allow people to create and sew their own clothes. Tilly has recently opened her own sewing studio, hosting sewing events and tuition. She has also written her first book this year ‘Love at First Stitch’ where she demystifies dressmaking. To find out more about Tilly, visit her blog at and her shop at

Cheekyhandmades’ new sewing studio opens Cheekyhandmades, the East London based sewing business run by Jennie Caminada, has now expanded its base with a purpose built studio to accommodate its sewing classes and their ever-increasing popularity in an airy, large space. The bespoke, innovative design was brought to fruition by The Libertine Lading Company in partnership with Jennie from Cheekyhandmades. Jennie’s informal and friendly approach to teaching is one which sets even the most nervous student at ease. As she herself puts it simply “anyone can learn to sew”. This inclusive and encouraging approach has proved to be an intrinsic element of her sewing business and its success. Crowdfunding from a supportive community of which Jennie is very much a part of has been a large part of this studio build. It is testament to both Jennie’s popularity locally and her evolution as a sewing educator. Up to six sewing students can now learn in the studio’s commodious, purpose built and funky surroundings. Jennie has been very much hands on with the conception of the project. Rooted in and part of the Walthamstow firmament and its future, Cheekyhandmades’ steady growth continues in its inimitable style, the studio opening heralding the next stage. In the next few months there are quilting, beginners sewing, alterations, dressmaking and kids’ clothes making classes booked in. Classes can be booked via the website

Pin It and Stitch unveil new website Pin It and Stitch was created in January 2012 by two sisters who love to sew, quilt and hunt for vintage treasures. They are obsessed with fabric, buttons, cotton and notions and they’re often to be found at the popular sewing and quilting shows with their bright and contemporary fabrics. Their intention is to share their passion for fresh, funky and modern quilting and aim to provide everything you could possibly desire to complete your projects. They recently unveiled a new website so now you can shop online with them to your heart’s content! Visit the new website at


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Readers’ Makes of the Month!

Knit & Stitch it in 2015 27 February – 1 March, Five, Farnborough

Winner of this month’s Readers’ Makes is Annette who wins a box of Mettler Poly Sheen threads – 100% Trilobal Polyester threads, perfect for all your sewing needs.

At Knit & Stitch it, southern needle crafters can again enjoy a dedicated exhibition showcasing all aspects of needlecraft, stitch craft and wool craft, all under one roof in Farnborough. Indulge yourself in three fun-filled Knit & Stitch it shopping days and enjoy the best that the needle craft industry has to offer. Choose from thousands of fabulous supplies, kits and materials on offer from your favourite companies (plus some new ones) and enjoy special show offers and exclusive discounts. To find out more, visit Stitching, Sewing & Hobbycrafts 6 – 8 February, EventCity, Manchester The largest creative crafting show in the north west – Stitching, Sewing & Hobbycrafts – is back for spring 2015 with a variety of must-see features, plus all the ideas and inspiration you could ever dream of! Avid knitters, stitchers, hobbyists and crafters will be in their idea of heaven with endless supplies, innovations, new product launches, demonstrations and workshops designed to encourage and inspire your creativity – there’s no better place to stock up and revel in creative craft inspiration! To book tickets and get further information, visit

Annette says “I returned to sewing after many years in 2012 when I was caring for my terminally ill partner, as sewing gave me something to concentrate on and some respite. Following his death in 2013 I won tickets to the sewing and craft show in Birmingham and took out a subscription for Sewing World. I love the variation in the magazine and have recently enjoyed the bag making series, so I thought I would send you three of my bag makes. The craft bag I have just finished is from your February 2014 issue, which I have made for a friend, the cross body purse from your April 2012 issue was made for my mother and the bright tote for myself was from your September 2012 issue. I never throw my mags away there are so many hints and tips. I am now going to start dressmaking and treating myself to a tailors dummy.” We’re so glad you took up sewing again, Annette!


Send me some pictures of YOUR makes and you too could be featured in the Makes of the Month column and win a lovely prize!

(Write to Sewing World at Traplet Publications, Pendragon Close, Malvern, Worcs. WR14 1GA or email: Visit our Facebook page

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The Fabric Stash

Designer Details: Lewis & Irene are a British, family-run business. They design fabulous cotton fabrics and sell them to lovely craft and fabric shops in the UK and across the world through leading distributors. Lewis & Irene were two very special people. They created a happy home and have left a legacy of love threaded through three generations of family.


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‘Spring Hare’ by Lewis & Irene

The Collection: Think of an English country lane in the springtime. Sitting still amongst the long grass, where everything is bursting into life, to watch the hares playing and boxing over the fields in the distance. Beautiful spring colours and a celebration of Easter .... We love the fresh pastel colours and beautiful prints, perfect for a spring skirt or a special bag.

Stockist Details: ‘Spring Hare’ will be available in late February 2015. Visit to find a stockist, or email:

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Stockists of

See our fat quarter bundles for some fabulous fabric combinations to inspire your next project!

We are an online shop offering an inspiring range of contemporary and classic fabrics for patchwork, quilting and sewing.

Telephone: 02381 783386 Website: Email:


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and About! DESIGNED BY Christine Down

Backpacks are always useful as a comfortable carry-all when you’re out and about. This one has a front pocket, flap closure and drawstring top.


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Projects Materials •

1m main fabric – ‘Annali’ by Stephanie Thannhauser for Dashwood Studio – Anna 1026

1m fabric for lining and contrast – ‘Annali’ by Stephanie Thannhauser for Dashwood Studio – Anna 1030

1m Thermolam fleece

25cm firm fusible interfacing (Vilene H250)

1.25m toning ribbon 1cm wide

1 toning small plastic clip

2 metal snap hooks

2 oblong metal ‘rings’

2 metal sliders

1 magnetic snap

To Cut – See pattern sheet for base


pattern piece

Main fabric: – Cut 1 base – Cut 2 28cm wide x 32cm high bag front/back pieces – Cut 2 14.5cm wide x 32cm high bag sides – Cut 1 28cm wide x 14cm high front pocket – Cut 1 19cm high x 15cm wide flap – Cut 1 27cm long x 10cm wide handle – Cut 2 6cm long x 10cm wide bottom tabs Lining-contrast fabric: – Cut 1 base – Cut 2 28cm wide x 32cm high bag front/back pieces – Cut 2 14.5cm wide x 32cm high bag sides – Cut 1 28cm wide x 14cm high front pocket – Cut 1 19cm high x 15cm wide flap – Cut 2 80cm long x 10cm wide straps – Cut 1 28cm long x 11cm wide contrast for pocket – Cut 1 70cm long x 7.5cm wide contrast for front flap

Use 1cm seam allowance throughout.

Thermolam: – Cut 1 base – Cut 2 28cm wide x 32cm high bag front/back pieces – Cut 2 14.5cm wide x 32cm high bag sides – Cut 1 28cm wide x 19cm high front pocket – Cut 1 22cm long x 19cm wide flap – Cut 1 27cm long x 5cm wide handle – Cut 2 6cm long x 5cm wide bottom tabs

Fabric width 114cm used throughout.

Interfacing: – Cut 2 80cm long x 10cm wide straps

A small safety pin is used to thread the ribbon through the casing.

Good To Know

Finished bag size: 28cm wide, 38cm high, 12cm deep.

Make the handle by affixing the Thermolam to one half of the handle fabric. Fold the handle in half longways and press. Open out and fold the raw edges to the centre, using the press crease as a guide for the centre. Then fold over again so that the raw edges are secured inside. Stitch close to the edge down both sides of the handle.

3 4

Make the tabs in the same way as step 2.

Make the straps by applying the fusible interfacing to the wrong sides of the strap fabric, then follow step 2.


To Sew

Make the pocket by stitching the contrast fabric to the top of the pocket front and the pocket lining. Fold in half and iron a crease along the middle of the contrast fabric. Line up the top of the Thermolam interfacing with the crease and fold the Thermolam between the pocket front and lining. Trim interfacing. Stitch across the top of the pocket. Pin the pocket to the front matching the bottom and the sides.



Using temporary spray glue, affix the Thermolam to the wrong sides of the main body pieces.

Stitch the front to both sides along the long seams. Stitch the back to both sides along the long seams. Place the body flat so that the seams are on top of each other and mark the bottoms at the folds with pins. Refold the body so those pins are on top of each other and mark the bottoms at the folds with pins. (You will now have marked the body into four quarters with pins).

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Make two 2cm long buttonholes 1.5cm from the top of the body front centrally 2cm apart.


Thread the rectangular ‘rings’ onto the tabs and fold the tabs in half. Place the tabs 3.5cm from each side seam on the back of the body at the bottom. Stitch the tabs to the body close to the bottom edge so that the tabs are approximately 3cm long.


Fold the base in half longways and mark the folds with pins. Refold the base widthways and mark as before. Match up the pins in the body with the pins in the base right sides together. Pin the rest of the base into place and stitch, go back and re-stitch over the tabs.


Thread 7cm of ribbon through the bottom of the plastic clip. Fold the end under and stitch to the centre of the pocket so that the top of the clip is level with the top of the pocket. Thread 7cm of ribbon through the other part of the clip. Fold the end under and stitch on the body immediately above the clip bottom so that the pieces can clip together without distorting the fabric.



Stitch the lining the same as step 6. When stitching the base into place leave a section open along the back. This is for turning out.


Trim the bottom of the Thermolam as necessary. Fold the long raw edge of the strip under by 0.5cm and press well. Fold the raw edges of the strip under at the side. Fold the strip under covering the Thermolam and pin into place so that the ironed crease is just over the raw edge of the lining fabric on the back.


Cut the contrasting flap strip into three. Stitch contrasting strips down both sides of the flap front and then stitch the flap back to both strips. Trim the bottom of the strips level with the main fabric. Turn to the right side and insert the Thermolam into the middle. The Thermolam should overhang at the bottom.


Place the

third contrasting strip on the front of the flap, right sides together, matching it up with the raw edge of the main fabric. It should overhang at both sides.


Stitch into place then stitch around the flap close to the edge. Place a small piece of fusible interfacing and place it on the wrong side of the flap front centrally as close to the bottom strip as possible. Turn the flap over and make a centre mark close to the bottom strip. Take the back of one of the magnetic snap pieces and mark where the holes need to be cut. Carefully cut the holes with a seam ripper tool and push the front of the snap through from the right side of the fabric. Put the back over the prongs and push the prongs apart to keep the back on.

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Topstitch the gap in the lining closed. Push the lining into the backpack. Stitch again parallel to the top approximately 2.5cm below the top. The buttonholes will be between the top and the stitching. Using a small safety pin thread the ribbon into one buttonhole, through the casing and back through the other buttonhole. Tie a knot in each end of the ribbon and apply a seam sealant to the raw ends.


Thread the sliders onto the straps. Thread the metal snap hooks onto the straps. Bring the end of the strap back through the slider. Thread through the central shank at the back of the slider. Zigzag across the ends of the straps and then stitch the strap end to the strap. Check that the slider can adjust the strap length.


Place the flap right sides together on top of the straps and handle. Stitch across the flap close to the edge sewing over the straps and handle as well.

Stockist Details


Close the flap and mark where the magnetic snap touches the backpack front. Insert the remaining part of the magnetic snap at this mark following step 13.


Pin the straps to the middle of the backpack body at the top on an approximate 45 degree angle.

Fabrics – The Sewing Shop, Canterbury,, tel: 01227 457723 Fittings and interfacing – Sewchristine, tel: 01233 713140

Name.. Christine Down All About Me.. I love to sew and I


Place the body into the lining, right sides together, making sure that the handles are out of way. Stitch around the top of backpack. Turn out to the right side through the gap in the lining.

particularly love making bags and purses. I have an online shop selling everything you need to make your own bags. I’ve also been a blogger since 2006, sharing sewing patterns and tutorials as well as writing numerous magazine articles. I live in Kent with my husband and Jessie my Jack Russell.


Pin the ends of the handle on either sides of the straps.

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to wear! Stay comfortable and chic with this draped knit top perfect for wearing with trousers and a stylish infinity scarf. This is an ideal project to make on an overlocker or sewing machine.

Multisized Make! Sewing World February 2015

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Projects Materials

58" 60" (150CM) 58" 60" (150CM) WITH NAP WITH NAP

2m stretch knit fabric, or ALL SIZES stretch velvet (for size 14); ALL SIZES 2.1m (for size 16); 2.2m (for sizes 18-20); 2.3m (for size 22)

Marking pen

This project is for sizes 14-22. It is also available in sizes 6-14 (see below).

Fabric width 150cm.

Use a 1.5cm seam allowance throughout unless otherwise stated. Fold fabric with right sides together as shown in the layout diagram. Position pattern pieces as shown on the layout, with the main pieces 1 and 2 printed side down. Cut out and transfer dots and other markings to the fabric.


4 2









Sizing Chart:


To Cut – See pattern sheet for pattern

Good To Know



Bust cm

Waist cm















Main fabric: – Cut 2 fronts (1) – Cut 2 backs (2) – Cut 1 neckband (3) – Cut 2 sleeves (4)

To Sew Tips for sewing with knits – • Needles – Use a ball point or stretch needle in a medium-weight size. • Machine settings – Decrease pressure on presser foot for heavy sweater knits; increase pressure for lingerie knits. • Seams – Stretch knits need seams that are supple enough to ‘give’ with the fabric. You can sew them with straight stitches, zigzag stitches or one of the stretch stitches built into many conventional machines, or on your overlocker. • Hems – Use a twin sewing machine needle for a perfect double stitched hem every time. Or use your overedge foot and an overedge stitch (straight stitch to the left with zigzag forming at the edge of the fabric). Then turn up hem allowance and straight stitch. Alternatively finish the raw edges of the hem allowance with an overlocker and then use the conventional machine for stitching the hem in place.


Stitch centre back seam of back and press.


With RIGHT sides together pin front to back at shoulder seams. Stitch or overlock.


Fold neck band in half, lengthwise, with WRONG sides together; press. Pin.


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Pin under seam allowance at neck edge, placing pins on OUTSIDE.

8 4

On OUTSIDE, pin band to neck edge, matching centre back notches, placing small dots at centre fronts and shoulder seams, and having raw edges even. Stitch/overlock in 1cm seam, stretching the band to fit. For a conventional machine – stitch again 3mm away from first stitching within the seam allowance.

On OUTSIDE, stitch across seam allowance over previous stitching.


Turn sleeve RIGHT side out. Hold garment WRONG side out with armhole towards you. With RIGHT sides together, pin sleeve to armhole edge with centre small dot at shoulder seam, matching underarm seams, notches and remaining small dots. Pull up ease stitches to fit. To distribute fullness evenly, slide fabric along bobbin threads until there are no puckers or tucks on the seam line. Baste. Stitch/overlock in 15mm seam. For conventional machine – Stitch again 3mm away from first stitching within the seam allowance. Press only the seam allowance, shrinking out fullness.

9 10

Stitch/overlock front to back at side seams.


Press seam towards tunic, pressing band out. On OUTSIDE, stitch tunic close to neck seam.

To ease top of sleeve between notches, stitch along seam line and 6mm INSIDE seam line, using a long machine-stitch. Stitch/overlock underarm seam. Press up hem on lower edge of sleeve. Stitch 6mm from raw edge, and 6mm from previous stitching.

This top is from Simplicity pattern 1323 which also includes two other variations of the top (view A has an optional contrast band and view C has a round neckline) plus easy-wear pull-on trousers and an infinity scarf. It is also available in sizes H5(6 – 14). To browse and buy the pattern, visit: or visit your local pattern stockist.


Pin centre front seam matching small dots and notches. Stitch/overlock centre front seam; press.

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Play and paintbrushes! DESIGNED BY Vanessa Mooncie

Make this adorable play apron for a child to keep them clean whilst they are creating! It has a large pocket and is divided into sections to hold treasures such as paintbrushes or a small drawing book. The edges are bound and buttons fasten the apron at the back of the neck.


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Projects Materials •

0.8m main fabric - linen, denim or calico

0.45m square contrast fabric for binding

Thread to match fabric

2 1.5cm buttons


Pocket Front

Good To Know

Broken lines indicate reverse side of pattern

The pattern comes in three sizes – 1 year old, 2 years old or 3 years old.

To Sew

Fabric width can be between 90cm and 150cm wide – the same quantity of fabric is needed for all widths and sizes.

Choose fabrics without a nap, or allow for extra if it has a nap.

Take 1.5cm seam allowance on side and shoulder seams and 1cm seam allowance on bound edges.

Back length finished measurements - 1 year: 48.5cm; 2 years: 51cm; 3 years: 53.5cm.

To Cut – See pattern sheet for pattern pieces

Main fabric: – Cut 1 front on fold – Cut 2 backs (make sure pattern piece is reversed as on layout diagram) – Cut 2 pockets


With right sides together, pin and stitch around the pocket, leaving an opening of around 7cm at the lower edge. Trim the seam and cut diagonally across the corners, taking care not to cut the stitching. Turn the pocket right side out and press well. Slipstitch the opening closed.


Staystitch the neck edges of the backs and front at the 1cm seam allowance.


On the outside of the apron front, pin the pocket in position, matching the small dots. Topstitch close to the side and lower edges. Run a line of stitches along each broken line indicated on the pattern to divide the pocket into sections.

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Projects Making bias binding


Find the bias of the fabric by folding it diagonally at one end. Mark the fabric with diagonal lines, parallel to the bias fold. The lines should be the desired width of your binding with a extra 6mm each side for the seams.


With right sides together, stitch the front to the back at the shoulders and side seams. Press seams open.

7 5

Cut 4cm wide bias strips from the contrast fabric and sew the short edges together to make the binding. Press a 1cm seam allowance along each long edge.

Turn under 1cm at the short end of the binding. Starting at the shoulder seam, with the right side of the binding to the inside of the garment, pin and stitch the creased edge of the binding to a 1cm seam allowance at the edges of the apron, overlapping the end and folding out the fullness of the binding at the corners. Press the seam towards the binding.


The short ends, which are cut on the grain, will be diagonal. With right sides together, pin and stitch the short ends together and press the seam open. Fold both long edges in to the centre and press.


To bind the armholes, open out one pressed edge of the binding. Turn under 1cm at the short end and, with the right side of the binding to the inside of the garment, align the turned edge with the underarm seam. Pin and stitch the edge of the binding to the 1cm seam allowance of the armhole, overlapping the binding at the end before cutting away the excess.



Turn the binding around the apron edges and armholes to the right side of the garment to encase the seam allowances. Pin the pressed edges over the seams and topstitch close to the pressed edges, pivoting the needle at the corners. Press the bound edges.

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Projects Binding outward corners


Open out one of the pressed edges of the binding and, with right side of binding to the wrong side of the garment, pin in place. Stitch along the seam to the corner, stopping at the seam line. Run the machine back and forth over a few stitches to reinforce the seam.


Fold the binding around the corner, aligning the fold with the edge just stitched. Pin and stitch the binding right along the adjoining edge of the corner. This will create a mitred edge on the right side of the binding.


Turn the binding to the right side of the garment, folding it at the corner so the mitre faces the opposite direction from the one on the inside. Pin over the seams and topstitch in place close to the edges, pivoting the needle at the corners.


Finish by working two buttonholes by hand or machine on the right back as indicated on the pattern. Lap the right back over the left, matching the centre back. Mark the position of the buttons to correspond with the buttonholes. Attach the buttons to the left back.

This project is an extract from ‘Sew Adorable’ by Vanessa Moonice ISBN: 9781861089311 and published by GMC. To buy a copy at the offer price of £11.24 plus p&p (RRP £14.99), please tel: 01273 488005 or go to and quote code: R4691. Closing date: 16th April 2015. Please note p&p is £2.95 for the first item and £1.95 for each additional item.

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Hot Fox!



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Projects This adorable hot water bottle cover is perfect for that favourite sweater which shrank in the wash! Homemade felt is lovely to work with as it doesn’t fray and feels so fantastically luxurious. Make your own by simply throwing a ‘hand-wash only’ jumper in the machine on a hot cycle!

Materials •

Felted wool sweater

Fusible web (Bondaweb)

Scraps of orange, white and black fabric

14cm x 23cm hot water bottle

1 Good To Know •

Use 1 cm seam allowance throughout.

Finished size – 14cm x 23cm.

You could adapt the pattern to make a cover for a larger hot water bottle. See steps 1 and 2.

Create a pattern by drawing around your hot water bottle and then adding approximately 2cm to the outline for your cutting guide. You might need to vary this slightly, dependent upon the amount of ‘stretch’ your felted sweater has. This forms your front pattern piece, now trace it twice more for the back pieces.


Trace the fox pattern pieces onto the Bondaweb and then iron onto the reverse side of your coloured scraps of fabric.

I used a sweater that was ribbed and so had quite a lot of stretch in it. If yours is knitted in plain stocking stitch simply draw a slightly larger pattern.


Position the pieces onto the front of the case and then carefully fuse them into place with your iron.

To Cut – See pattern sheet for pattern pieces or follow steps 1 and 2. Template for fox is on page 32. Felted sweater: – Cut 1 front piece – Cut 1 back piece ‘A’ – Cut 1 back piece ‘B’

To Sew


Mark two lines, three centimetres apart, on the back pattern pieces. These will form the envelope closure. Cut the top piece ‘A’ on the lower line and the bottom piece ‘B’ on the upper line as seen in the pictures. Use all three pieces to cut your felted sweater.


Drop the feed teeth on your sewing machine and free machine embroider around the appliqué pieces in black thread. Go around each piece at least twice to give the embroidery a ‘sketchlike’ feel. Don’t worry if your sewing is a bit wobbly as this adds to the overall effect of raw edge appliqué!

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Lay the front piece down, right side up, and place your back piece ‘A’ on top, wrong side up, then add the bottom back piece ‘B’ again with wrong side facing up. Ensure that the top and bottom of all three pieces are level. You will then find that the two back pieces overlap, as in the pictures, and this

creates the simple envelope closure. Pin or tack securely and then machine stitch.

Stockist Details


Fabric – Secret Garden Quilting,, tel: 01582 227808


Turn the case right sides out and gently press. Insert hot water bottle.

Bondaweb – The Cotton Patch,, tel: 0121 702 2840

Name.. Josie Day All About Me.. I enjoy sewing of

any type but all of my projects feature raw edge appliqué in one form or another. I absolutely love this technique and its ability to look funky and modern or classic and sophisticated! My blog is dedicated to sewing and I regularly post free tutorials and projects there. I live in the North East of England with my very patient husband, two lovely children and an extremely naughty cat!


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DESIGNED BY Susan Dunlop of SusieDDesigns

Make this smart modern clutch, perfect for an evening out or special event. It’s a great stash buster as it uses small amounts of fabric.


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Projects To Cut – See pattern sheet for flap Materials •

10cm x 40cm fabric A – cotton print – ‘Road 15’ by Sweetwater for Moda Fabrics 10cm x 40cm fabric B – cotton print – ‘Road 15’ 25cm x 20cm fabric C – cotton print – ‘Road 15’ 25cm x 40cm fabric D – cotton print – ‘Road 15’ 15cm x 30cm fabric E – cotton print – ‘Road 15’

0.25m lining fabric – cotton print

0.5m medium weight fusible interfacing

0.25m medium-loft fusible fleece

18mm slim magnetic snap

pattern piece

Fabric A: – Cut 2 7cm x 17cm centre panels Fabric B: – Cut 2 7cm x 17cm centre panels Fabric C: – Cut 2 10cm x 22cm left/right panels


With RST, sew the left/right panels to the side edges of the centre panel. Press the seams toward the left/right panels and topstitch 5mm from the seams.

Fabric D: – Cut 1 22cm x 33cm back panel Fabric E: – Cut 1 flap closure Lining fabric: – Cut 2 22cm x 33cm main body lining pieces – Cut 1 flap closure Fusible interfacing: – Cut 4 7cm x 17cm centre panels – Cut 2 10cm x 22cm left/right panels – Cut 1 22cm x 33cm back panel – Cut 2 flap closures


Cut a 2.5cm circle of fusible fleece and adhere, centrally, to the W/S of the centre panel, which is second down from the top. Install the magnetic half of the snap.

Fusible fleece: – Cut 2 22cm x 33cm main body lining pieces – Cut 1 flap closure

Good To Know

To Sew

Fabric width 112cm used.

R/S = right side, W/S = wrong side.


RST = right side together.

Seam allowances are included in the pattern piece and cutting sizes.

Use 1cm seam allowance throughout, unless stated otherwise.

Finished clutch size: 25cm x 20cm x 6cm.


Fuse all the interfacing pieces to the W/S of the corresponding fabric pieces. Fuse the fleece to the W/S of both main body lining pieces and the flap main fabric, using a pressing cloth.

Place the pieced front panel and the back panel RST, pin. Stitch down one side, across the bottom and up the other side. Press the seams open and leave W/S out.


With RST, sew the four centre panels together, at the long edges and alternating the prints. Press the seams open.

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Stitch down the side around the bottom and up the other side, leaving the top straight edge open. Notch the curves and trim the seam allowance back to 5mm. Turn R/S out, easing all the edges out neatly. Topstitch with a 5mm seam and baste the open edge, with a 5mm seam.


Make the flat base by boxing the corners: refold a corner to match up the side and bottom seam, RST, pin. Measure 3cm down from the corner and draw a line across where the width measures 6cm between the folded edges. Stitch the marked line and trim off the corner to leave a 5mm seam allowance. Repeat to box the other corner. Turn R/S out, easing all the seams out neatly.


With RST, match the raw edge of the flap to the top back edge of the outer, positioning centrally widthways. Pin and baste 5mm from the raw edges.


Sew the main body lining pieces together, by following step 5, but this time leave a turning gap of 12cm at the centre of the bottom seam. Repeat step 6 to box the corners. Leave the lining W/S out.


Pull the outer through the gap in the lining, to bring both R/S out. Fold in and press the gap edges, to match the rest of the seam, pin. Slipstitch by hand or machine-stitch close to the edges. Push the lining down inside the outer and press the top edges so that the seam sits neatly at the top. Topstitch all around the opening, with a 5mm seam.

Stockist Details Fabric – Grace & Jacob,, tel: 07870 663 820 Interfacing, fleece and magnetic snap – SusieDDesigns,, tel: 07704 100 46

Name.. Susan Dunlop All About Me.. I live in Scotland


Cut another 2.5cm circle of fusible fleece. Adhere to the W/S of the flap lining and install the non-magnetic half of the snap, referring to the pattern piece for position. Place the flap pieces RST, pin.



Insert the outer into the lining, with RST, matching up the side seams and top edges, pin. Ensure the flap remains tucked down inside the layers. Stitch all around the top edge.

with my husband and four children. I love sewing, adore modern fabrics and bags are my thing. Look out for my first bag-making book, ‘Style and Swing’, due for release March 2015. Visit to find my range of modern patterns, bag-making supplies and kits.

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laundry DESIGNED BY Lou Orth



This gorgeous laundry bag will add a touch of luxury to trips away. It has detailed Liberty appliquĂŠs and also comes with matching Liberty lavender bags. The lavender bags have cute little loops of ribbon so you can use them in a wardrobe as well as drawers. Great as a gift or a treat for yourself.

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Projects Materials •

0.5m x WOF main fabric – cotton, Kona solids in Eggshell

1 fat eighth for appliqué and lavender bags – ‘Petal and Bud’ (purple) by Liberty

Toy stuffing

Dried Lavender

116cm ribbon

1 button (2 hole)

Rotary cutter


To Sew Lavender Bags

Laundry bag


Take two of your Liberty print squares and place right sides together. Sew around the squares leaving a gap of approximately 3cm, remembering to backstitch at the beginning and end. Trim corners and turn the right way round.


Take your half metre piece of fabric and fold in half lengthways (selvedge to selvedge) to get the rough shape of your bag. This allows you to place your appliqué templates where you wish them to be. Remember not to place them too close to the top, bottom or sides as seam allowances, boxing of the base and the drawstring will reduce the sides of the bag.

Good To Know •

Use 1cm seam allowance throughout.

114cm fabric width (WOF) used.

Finished bag size 40 x 50 cm.

To Cut –


Fill with a little toy stuffing, followed by the dried lavender and add until you reach your desired fullness.

See pattern sheet for


Liberty fabric: – Cut appliqué designs – Cut 4 10cm x 10cm pieces


To attach the appliqué to the bag, sew a small zigzag stitch all the way around the shapes.

Ribbon: – Cut 2 8cm pieces for lavender bags


Place one of the 8cm lengths of ribbon, folded over and into the gap, with the loop outwards. Pin in place and hand stitch closed. Repeat the process to make a second lavender bag.

Tip: a little spray glue on the back of the appliqué shapes helps them to stay put during sewing.

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Turn the bag right sides together and sew a seam up each side, leaving the top free. Finish seams with zigzag stitch.

draw a line. Pin the bag in place and sew along this line, making sure to backstitch at both ends. Trim excess 1cm from the stitch line and repeat for the other corner.


Make the drawstring tube at the top by folding over the top of the bag by 1cm twice. Sew a topstitch the whole way around, leaving a 2cm – 3cm gap.


Stockist Details Kona fabric and toy filling – Plush Addict,, tel: 0845 519 4422 Liberty fabric – Very Berry Fabrics,

Thread your metre of ribbon through this tube.

Tip: attach a safety pin to the ribbon to make threading easier.

Name.. Lou Orth All About Me.. I am a self

confessed fabric addict from Oxford. I love creating sewing projects, including quilting and dressmaking, and blogging about my sewing makes and tutorials on my blog You can also find me on Instagram, Pinterest and Twitter as @imstudiolou


Box the corners by laying the seam flat and in the middle, create a point. Line up a ruler, 5cm in from the point and



Once all the way through, thread each end of the ribbon through the button and tie off with a knot to secure in place.

February 2015 Sewing World

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Skirt DESIGNED BY Victoria Walker


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Projects Materials •

1.4m main fabric – ‘Indigo Deer Me’ from ‘Moonshine’ by Tula Pink

0.75m contrast fabric – ‘Sky Frivolity’ from ‘Moonshine’ by Tula Pink

20cm standard nylon dress zip

To Cut – See pattern sheet for pattern pieces

Main fabric: – Cut 1 skirt front on the fold – Cut 2 skirt backs

Good To Know •

Use 1.5cm seam allowance throughout unless otherwise stated.

The fabric used is 114cm wide. There is enough fabric allowed even if your fabric is a one-way design or will need matching.

This A-line skirt is an easy-to-sew project with plenty of style. Introduce a splash of colour to your wardrobe with the contrast pockets and hem facing. With a simple back zip, this skirt will flatteringly skim your hips and be comfortable and practical to wear.

Contrast fabric: – Cut 1 skirt front facing on the fold – Cut 2 hem facings on the fold – Cut 2 skirt back facings – Cut 2 pockets – Cut 2 pocket linings


Take the pocket pieces and place on the pocket linings, right sides together. Match the long curved edges and pin. Stitch together along the curved edge only, with a 1cm seam allowance. Neaten edges and press.

To Sew

The key to a good fit is to make sure that you choose the right size. Measure your waist and hips and choose the size that is closest to these measurements. If, for example your waist is a size 12 and your hips are a 14, it is easy to graduate the pattern when you cut it out by moving steadily from the size 12 line at the waist to the size 14 at the hips.

Sizing Chart:

Waist cm


Place the two back skirt pieces right sides together and stitch the centre back seam from the notch, which indicates the bottom of the zip, to the hem. Then using the longest stitch setting on your machine, stitch the rest of the seam from the top edge down to the notch. This is a basting stitch, which will be removed later. Neaten the edges of the seam and press open.


Hips cm

















Take the pocket lining pieces and place right sides down on the skirt front matching the curved edges. Pin in place and stitch the curved edge. Trim the seam to approx. 1cm and clip the curve making sure not to cut the stitches. Turn to the right side and press.

Place the zip on the wrong side of the skirt, with the zip teeth 1.5cm from the top edge, ensuring that the teeth are lined up with the seam. Tack in place. With the right side up, using the zipper foot for your machine, stitch from the top, down the right side of the zip, pivot and stitch across the bottom, and up the other side.

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facing edges in so that the wrong sides are together and match the folded edge to the back seam. Stitch then trim the seam to 1cm and clip the curves. Turn the right way out and press the seam allowances towards the facing.

Tip: to avoid the stitching swerving around the zip pull, unpick 3cm of your seam tacking so that you can pull the zip down a little bit. Once you have stitched as far towards the zipper as you can, leave the needle down, lift the presser foot up and close the zip again. Reverse this when you get near the end on the other side.



Unpick the tacking and the basting and make sure your zip functions before moving on.


Place the skirt backs and fronts right sides together. Make sure that the pockets are lying flat. Match the notches on the side seams. Pin and stitch down each side. Neaten the edges. Press the seams open and press the pockets towards the front of the skirt.


With right sides together stitch the front and back waist facings together at the side seams. Press the seams open. Neaten the bottom edge of the facing by either zigzagging or by turning under 0.5cm and stitching.


Understitch the facing by stitching very close, around 2mm from the seam, on the right side of the facing making sure that all the seam allowances underneath are on this side of the seam. This will make sure that the facing lies flat and doesn’t roll when you wear the skirt. Press the facing to the inside. Hand stitch the centre back facing edges down the inside of the skirt along the zip.


Place the hem facings right sides together and stitch the side seams. Press open. Press under 1cm along the top edge all the way round. Be careful to make this accurate so as to get a good finish when it is attached.


With right sides together, match the long raw edge of the facing to the raw edge of the skirt hem. Match centres and side seams. Pin in place and stitch with a 1cm seam allowance all around. Clip curves. Turn facing to the inside and press.


With right sides together, pin the facing to the top of the skirt matching the centres and the side seams. Make sure that the pockets are lying flat against the skirt front. At the back seam, turn the


To finish attaching the hem facing, pin the previously pressed under edge of the facing to the inside of the skirt making sure that it is lying very flat against the skirt. Stitch along this edge, close to the edge, making sure to maintain the same distance from the edge all the time. Press.

Stockist Details Fabrics – Lady Sew and Sew,, tel: 01491 572528

Name.. Victoria Walker All About Me.. I have been

dressmaking for as long as I can remember because I love wearing clothes that are different to what you can buy on the high street. For the past three years I have worked as a freelance sewing and knitting tutor and have introduced lots of people to the satisfaction of making something that they can be proud of. I live in the Malvern Hills with my husband and children in a house full of wool and fabric.

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DESIGNED BY Fiona Duggan

Decorate your home for the cold, dark days of winter with a touch of Highland flair with this Highland Fling cushion! At 50cm (20") square, the cushion is big enough to keep you cosy and comfortable, and with a zipped back it’s easy to change when spring days arrive.


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Projects Materials

Good To Know

5 50cm x 55cm (fat quarters) quilting cotton – ‘Indelible’ by Katrina Roccella for Art Gallery Fabrics

Finished cushion size 20" square.

Use a ¼" seam allowance throughout.

50cm (20") plain cotton for cushion back

Press seams as you go.

• •

55cm (21") square cotton wadding

Pressing seams open will reduce bulk in the pieced strips.

• •

55cm (21") square cotton/ muslin for quilt backing

If you are using directional prints for the strips, be careful to make sure that the fabric is facing the

55cm (21") nylon zip

Thread for machine quilting

Rotary cutter

Walking foot

Zipper foot

Spray starch (optional)

To Cut For each block (of 4) cut the following (number of pieces for all four blocks in brackets)

right way for the lengthways or widthways pattern. •

Plan your cutting of the stag fabric carefully to ensure the correct placement of the stags in the final cushion.

With so many pieces in each block it is easier to keep track of the pieces by working on one block at a time.

Spray starch the fabric before cutting to help minimise distortion during piecing.


Using the diagram as a guide, sew each column of the blocks. Sew the seven columns together to complete one block.

Fabric D: – Cut 1 (4) 2½" x 1¼" rectangle – Cut 1 (4) 1¼" square – Cut 1 (4) 3¾" x 1¼" rectangle – Cut 1 (4) 1½" x 1¼" rectangle – Cut 1 (4) 2½" x 3¼" rectangle – Cut 1 (4) 1¼" x 3¼" rectangle – Cut 1 (4) rectangle 3¾" x 3¼" – Cut 1 (4) rectangle 1½" x 3¼" Fabric E: – Cut 6 (24) 1" x 1½" rectangles Plain cotton: – Cut 2 20" x 10½" rectangles for cushion back

To Sew

Fabric A: – Cut 2 (8) 2½" squares – Cut 2 (8) 1¼" x 2½" rectangles – Cut 2 (8) 3¾" x 2½" rectangles – Cut 2 (8) 1½" x 2½" rectangles Fabric B: – Cut 6 (24) 1½" x 2½" rectangles – Cut 2 (8) 1½" x 3¼" rectangles – Cut 2 (8) 1½" x 1¼" rectangles – Cut 2 (8) 4¼" x 1½" rectangles – Cut 2 (8) 3¾" x 1½" rectangles Fabric C: – Cut 5 (20) 1" x 2½" rectangles – Cut 2 (8) 1" x 3¼" rectangles – Cut 2 (8) 1" x 1¼" rectangles – Cut 1 (4) 1" x 6½" rectangle


Matching the seams, sew the blocks together in pairs. Matching the seams, sew the block pairs together to make a 4 x 4 block cushion front.

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Centre the completed cushion front right side facing on top of the wadding and layer on the quilt backing. Baste or pin the three layers together. Echo quilt the cushion front using the walking foot and following the seams of the Fabric C cross hatch strips. Trim the excess wadding and backing. Square up the quilted top.


Measure the height and width of the quilted cushion front. Adding ½" to the height measurement, trim the plain cotton cushion back pieces to match these measurements. Placing one cushion back piece right side facing, pin the zip along one long edge, matching the edge of the zip with the raw edge of the fabric. The zip will extend beyond the width of the fabric to be trimmed later.


Trim the corners. Turn the cushion cover right side out and press.

Stockist Details Fabrics – Fabricworm,

Name.. Fiona Duggan


Using the zipper foot, sew the zip to the cushion back piece. Turn the sewn zip up and press. Topstitch along the turned edge. Repeat with the other cushion back piece, making sure that the cushion back pieces are aligned at each side. Trim the excess zip level with the cushion back pieces.


Open the zipper. Place the cushion back on the quilted front wrong sides together. Pin the pieces together and sew around the cushion, reversing over and back at the zip ends to reinforce the seams.


All About Me.. Although I

discovered patchwork and quilting when I attended an evening class several years ago, my quilting and crafting only really took off a few years later whilst living abroad when I came across the world of online crafting. Since then I have created my own patterns, organised an online sewing competition and hosted several link parties and giveaways on my blog, Celtic Thistle Stitches. Away from sewing I love to travel and look for inspiration everywhere I go.

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Floral Fancy


DESIGNED BY Debbie Shore

Add a touch of decadence to a plain glass cylinder vase with this pretty sleeve. It makes a bunch of flowers feel like a spectacular bouquet!

Materials For a cylinder vase measuring 18cm tall and 24cm in circumference: •

15.5cm x 30.5cm outer fabric

15.5cm x 30.5cm lining fabric

66cm x 15.5cm fabric for the pleated top

71cm ribbon to decorate

15cm fabric for a yo-yo


Silicone glue

Good To Know


0.5cm seam allowance used unless otherwise stated.

This sleeve is easily adapted for a larger vase, but you may need to put a couple of ribbons around it. Check your vases and cut fabric accordingly.

If the fabric slips on the glass, put a few drops of silicone glue on the inside of the sleeve and leave to dry. This will help the sleeve to grip the vase.

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Projects To Cut Yo-yo fabric: – Cut a 13cm circle

To Sew

6 7

Pin this pleated trim inside the opening of the sleeve. Sew across the top of the sleeve to hold the pleated fabric in place.


Lay the outer and lining fabrics right sides together and sew around three sides, leaving the top open.

2 3

Snip across the corners and turn the right way out. Press. Fold the top of the sleeve inwards by about 13mm and press.


For the pleats, fold the long strip of fabric in half lengthways and press, folding each short end inwards by about 13mm. Topstitch the two shorter ends.


Begin to pleat by folding and pinning the fabric; you should aim to have a strip the same width as the fabric sleeve. I don’t tend to measure – if your pinned pleats are too long or too short, you can alter before sewing. When you have the right length of pleated trim, sew across the bottom to secure.


Attach the ribbon centrally to the back of the vase sleeve with a few machine stitches. Making a yo-yo: • Thread a needle, knot your thread and sew a running stitch all around the circumference of the circle, about 0.5cm from the edge. • Pull up to gather. • Don’t cut the thread yet, but sew over the gathering a couple of times. • Sew on your button.


Wrap the sleeve around your vase and tie in a bow. Position your yo-yo where it sits well and pin then sew it in place.

This project is an extract from ‘Half Yard Home’ by Debbie Shore and published by Search Press priced at £9.99. To order a copy post free in the UK, tel: 01892 510850, quoting Sewing World to get the special offer.

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This attractive wallet is adorned with a scrappy Dresden plate, perfect for showing off all your favourite little scraps of treasured fabrics. Inside there is a zip compartment for all your loose change and plenty of card slots and a neat magnetic fastener closure.


Step measurements in inches and buying measurements in both metric and imperial to make it easier for you!


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Projects Materials

Good To Know

50cm (20") main fabric – Robert Kaufman ‘Essex’ Linen in Flax

Before starting, transfer the Dresden plate wedge and inner circle template onto heavy card to make them more durable.

• •

25cm (10") fabric for zip pocket and card slots – ‘Doe Eyed in Silver’ from ‘Moonshine’ by Tula Pink

Construction seam allowance is ¼" unless specified and the final assembly stage uses a ½" seam allowance.

Finished purse size when open 12" x 7½".

When choosing fabrics aim for a nice contrast between those you choose for your Dresden plate and the main fabric – this way your patchwork will really stand out. It can be nice to pick one of the fabrics from the Dresden for the inside to continue the theme, we alternated the fabrics for our card slot pockets with the main fabric and the print fabric to help them stand out. Watch out for the positioning if using a directional fabric and try to keep any pattern going the same way.

Selection of small scraps for Dresden plate – Tula Pink ‘Moonshine’ range

50cm (20") Vilene H250/305 firm iron-on interfacing

25cm (10") Thermolam Fleece

Magnetic snap fastener

20cm (8") zip

Basting spray

Point turner

Vanishing fabric marker

Piece of foil

To Cut – See pattern sheet for templates

Thermolam: – Cut 1 7½" x 12" piece for main wallet – Cut 8" x 5" piece for zip pocket Interfacing: – Cut 1 7½" x 12" piece for main wallet – Cut 1 8" x 3¾" piece for top pocket – Cut 1 8" x 2½" piece for second pocket – Cut 1 8" x 3" piece for third pocket – Cut 1 8" x 2" piece for bottom pocket – Cut 1 8" x 4½" piece for zip pocket Scrap fabrics: – Cut 16 pieces from the Dresden Wedge template

To Sew


Join the blades first in pairs, then join these to make quarters and then halves, then finally join the two halves to complete the Dresden plate. Press seams open.

Main fabric: – Cut 2 8½" x 13" pieces for main wallet Pocket and card fabric: – Cut 1 8½" x 4¼" piece for top pocket – Cut 1 8½" x 3¼" piece for second pocket – Cut 1 8½" x 3¾" piece for third pocket – Cut 1 8½" x 2¾" piece for bottom pocket – Cut 1 8½" x 8" piece for outside of zip pocket – Cut 3 8½" x 5" pieces for inside of zip pocket

3 1

Fold the blades in half lengthways with right sides facing together and stitch along the wider top edge. You can chain piece if you wish as it is a lot quicker. Turn right way out using a point turner and press.

Take one of the 8½" x 13" pieces of main fabric and position the Dresden plate along one of the shorter sides, 1" away from the edge and positioned centrally. Topstitch the Dresden plate in place, along the outer edge either with a straight stitch or a decorative blanket stitch.

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7 4

Using the circle template, cut a piece of fabric roughly ½" bigger all around. Place the fabric on the foil right side down with the cardboard template on top. Fold in the foil and press around the edges with an iron. When you open up the foil you will have neatly turned under raw edges. Pin in place in the centre of your Dresden plate and topstitch to hold down.


Use basting spray to bond the Thermolam fleece onto the back of the main Dresden plate piece with a ½" gap all the way around. Bond the iron-on interfacing onto the back of the remaining main fabric piece, with a ½" gap all the way around.

Top pocket – bond the interfacing to the reverse of one of the fabric pieces. Put the two pieces of fabric right sides facing together and sew along the top edge. Flip the right way out, press, then topstitch ¼" from the top edge to secure. Put the second Pocket onto the top pocket. Line it up ½" from the top edge. Stitch ¼" along top of second pocket.


Repeat with the next pocket, again lining up ½" from the top edge of the last pocket.


Put the very bottom pocket ½" down from the top of the last and then baste along the three unfinished edges. Do not worry if the bottom edges do not line up. Trim the bottom when finished if necessary. Mark the centre of the pockets from top to bottom and topstitch along this line.


Take your outer zip pocket fabric piece and on the reverse of one of the long sides draw a line 1" in from the edge, ending 1" from each side edge. Draw another identical line ½" below and connect them to make a rectangle.


Card pocket section – Set aside the top card pocket pieces for now. For remaining card pocket pieces bond the interfacing to the relevant pocket piece. You should have a ¼" gap along the bottom and the side edges and a slightly larger gap along the top edge. Turn over the top edge and press. Topstitch ¼" from the top edge.



Place right sides together with one of the inside zip pocket pieces (match up the raw edges around the rectangle, do not worry that the internal zip pocket piece is not as long as the other). Using a small stitch length and starting in the centre of one of the long lines sew around the rectangle. Secure your stitches and take care to sew neat crisp corners.


On the

Thermolam draw a line ¾" from the top edge, ending ¾" from each side edge. Draw another identical line ½" below and connect to give a rectangle. Cut out this rectangle, on the outer side of the line to make it slightly larger all around. Cut down the middle of the sewn rectangle (through both fabrics) and cut into the corners neatly and do not cut through your stitching. Flip the fabrics so that they are facing wrong sides together (gather up one and push through the rectangle opening to do this) press and put the Thermolam between the two layers of fabric.


Pin the zip behind the opening and topstitch into place. Trim all excess zip after stitching.


Take the remaining inside zip pocket pieces and fuse the interfacing to one of these. Put the two pieces of fabric wrong sides together and then put on top of the zip pocket (if using a different print for inside the zip pocket this should be on top facing you). Sew along the top edge only.


Trim seam allowance to 1⁄8", flip, press and topstitch ¼" from the edge. Take your main fabric piece, without the Dresden, and baste the card pocket section in place along one end around the three raw edges, use a ¼" seam allowance when basting.

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Line up the zip pocket section at the other end and draw a line 4" up from the edge with the zip pocket and topstitch along this line. Trim any excess fabric and Thermolam. Baste around the remaining raw edges of the zip pocket as you did for the card section.

for turning on the zip pocket end of the wallet, sew with a ½" seam allowance and short stitch length around the outside of the purse. Be sure to backstitch when you start and finish and it is a good idea to reinforce the corners too. A walking foot and binding clips rather than pins can also be useful at this stage. Trim the corners and seam allowance, but not along the open edge.

19 17

On the zip pocket end of the completed interior section mark 1½" down in the centre and fit magnetic fastening here. On the Dresden outer section mark 1½" down in the centre on the end without the Dresden plate and fit the remaining part of the magnetic fastening here.

Turn the right way out. Poke out corners, then press well. Topstitch around the purse from the card pockets on one side, around to the start of the card pockets on the other. Because of all the layers of interfacing it is easiest to leave the card pockets as they are without topstitching. You may find a heavier weight or topstitch needle helps.

Stockist Details Fabrics – Stitch Craft Create,, tel: 0844 880 5851 Interfacing, Thermolam – The Cotton Patch,, tel: 0121 702 2840 Magnetic Snap – Bag Clasps Ltd,, tel: 01253 590188

Name.. Emily Levey All About Me.. I have a passion for sewing and love to share my knowledge and skills, teaching forgotten techniques. I first started sewing 20 years ago and have not put my needle down since. Today I can always be found in my studio, surrounded by fabric, rustling up a new dress or working on my latest quilt or pattern. Of course there is always lots of tea drinking, cake eating and stroking of fabric too!


Put the inner section and Dresden outer right sides facing together (line the Dresden up with the zip/snap end of the inner, with the card slots facing the snap on the outer section). Leave 4"

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Sew smart with Part 6 - Sewing creatively with Vilene Introduction

Creative Range

With a passion for fabric, colour and design it is always tempting to be experimental with textiles once in a while and this form of creativity doesn’t necessarily involve following any patterns or instructions, you can just make up the rules as you go along. The journey into the unknown can be great fun and there is always that element of the unexpected that will spur you on!

Decovil 1: is a special Vilene interfacing that has a leather-like handle which is not only tear– resistant but also dimensionally stable, yet easy to shape. It retains its shape well and is very durable. Decovil 1 Light, as the name suggests, is lighter and softer in handle but, in essence, has the same properties. Both qualities are ideally suited to the creation of hats, bags, belts and various home interior applications. Decovil 1 is washable and dry cleanable.

The Vilene creative range has some very clever products that will speed you along this adventurous path and the whole process of discovering new, exciting techniques can open up a whole new aspect to your future sewing projects. From decorative boxes to decadent jewellery and cheeky handbags, there is world of creativity waiting for you to have a go.

Solufleece: is an excellent stabiliser for numerous techniques where you want fine embroidery or a textured surface to be the main feature without any evidence of a backing material. This thin fleece dissolves completely once your embroidery or stitch work is done and it is perfect for almost any material, including yarns and braids that are washable. Simply place your threads, fabrics, braids and knitting yarns randomly on the Solufleece (think of them as a sandwich filling) and position another layer on top. Tack with pins and then stitch all layers together either crisscross or in a grid to secure all the fabrics before washing away the Solufleece in cold water. Solufix: is an exciting new addition to the Vilene creative range and is used in exactly the same way as Solufleece but with a water-soluble adhesive backing which makes the whole process even easier, eliminating the need for pinning or adhesive sprays. It is a particular boon for more intricate embellishments where neat work and precise detail is imperative.


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Techniques Once the project is complete, it can be washed out in lukewarm water – don’t tear it off or iron it. If it needs a press, wait until all the Solufix has been removed and use a moderate iron (in line with the materials you are working on) and a pressing cloth to protect your completed project. An added bonus is that you can print on Solufix with an inkjet printer, making it suitable for use as a quilt or embroidery template. Bondaweb: is an adhesive web on a backing paper and probably a product that most are already familiar with. It is perfect for bonding appliqué shapes to all manner of projects and can also be used in conjuction with Solufleece for an instant ‘crashing’ effect to give your fabric an exciting surface texture. Working with the wrong side of your fabric uppermost, place two layers of Bondaweb without backing paper flat on the fabric and then a layer of Solufleece on top. Sew all layers together in a criss-cross or parallel lines (approx. 1cm spacing). When complete, place the steam iron on the highest setting above the Solufleece surface (hover above – do not iron!). The Solufleece will gradually contract, gathering the fabric to create the smocking effect. The process is finished when the fabric stops shrinking. The more even the sewing lines, the more regular the ‘bubbles’. The freer, crisscross stitching results in a more random effect. Repeat the process on the right side of the fabric and then once more on each side before letting the fabric cool down completely for at least one hour before washing out the Solufleece in lukewarm water. The finished piece

will remain in the ‘crashed’ texture and can now be used for making belts, bags or as motifs to be applied elsewhere. Stitch’n’Tear: is the perfect stabiliser for backing embroideries and appliqués that are too delicate for using an iron-on stabiliser. This useful sewing aid should be cut out slightly larger than the final stitch work and can be applied in different ways depending on your project. If you are using an embroidery hoop, it should be larger than the hoop so it lies entirely smooth and flat on the top of your material. You can also draw or trace directly onto Stitch’n’Tear with a vanishing fabric marker to enable you to transfer stitch designs to garments, accessories, quilts or home furnishings. It is perfect for freehand embroidery and thread painting, in which case it is used underneath your fabric. Once the stitch work has been completed you simply tear away the Stitch’n’Tear, leaving your creative work undistorted. Fuse’n’Tear: is particularly useful for stretchable fabrics and also for stabilising fabrics to be printed in an inkjet printer. You simply iron the Fuse’n’Tear on the surface area to be appliquéd or embroidered or, if you are printing a fabric, use it on the underside. An added benefit in the case of both these qualities is that they are removed without residue and can therefore be re-used time and time again. Ideal for embellishing fashion accessories, garments, soft furnishings, placemats, bags and quilts.

Spunbond CS 800: has unlimited possible uses and is brilliant for experimental surface designs including fabric painting as well as for making creative textile envelopes and bags. It is absolutely stable and tear resistant and doesn’t fray. You can apply appliqués with Bondaweb as well as experimenting with numerous other fabric applications and techniques.

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Techniques S80 and S133: are both stiffer, thicker and versatile interlinings that can be used for all manner of creative work that needs a substantial backing. S80 is thick and strong but you can still machine and hand stitch it quite easily for making items such as decorative boxes, textile postcards or even crowns for little prince or princess fancy dress outfits. If, on the other hand, you are looking for something very firm and compact to give shape to the bottom of a bag or the peak of a cap then S133, which is in an ecru colour, is the one to choose. Both are available by the metre in 30cm, 45cm and 90cm widths. Filmoplast H54: is a self-adhesive film on a backing paper that is easily removed after application without leaving any residue. Perfect for placing together a selection of fabric pieces and other materials for making collages. You can draw the design on the backing paper first to help place fabric sections accurately before stitch work and embroidery begins. Once you have all fabric pieces held in place on the Filmoplast it then becomes child’s play with no need for pins or tacking. You can even use Filmoplast in an embroidery hoop with the backing paper uppermost before carefully scoring the paper just enough to reveal the adhesive side of the Filmoplast in the area you want to add fabric and surface embellishment. This is ideal for adding small details to blouse


cuffs, pockets and collars and even works well on stretchy fabrics such as polo shirts – so you can add special individual details to almost anything you can sew, including off-the-peg as well as home sewn garments and accessories. Framilastic: is a transparent and elastic PU tape, stretchable up to 450% and ideal for shape retention on stretch fabrics in areas such as waistbands and bias cut or rounded areas like armholes and shoulder seams. However, as with so many Vilene products, there are more adventurous possibilities as well! You can have fun creating ruched details on sleeves, necklines and shirt fronts with this strong sew-in tape which is both heat and bleach resistant, making it ideal for numerous stretchy applications on underwear, swim and sportswear. S320: is a soft iron-on interlining for belts, hats and other creativity and S520 is a firmer iron-on quality and both are great for bags, belts, hats and more exuberant applications. 278 Soya Mix: is a 100% natural batting, lightweight, softer and smoother than traditional battings. The soya fibres are eco-friendly and antimicrobial, making this an ideal quality for lightweight jackets and quilts. To ensure this natural material

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Techniques doesn’t shrink later on in the process, we recommend a pre-wash beforehand and it’s best to allow it to dry flat naturally and avoid spinning or squeezing the moisture out. Deco-Wadding: is a new nontoxic synthetic fibre that is very soft yet also very bulky which makes it ideal for threedimensional effects as well as for stuffing toys, cushions and decorative ornaments. It has the added advantage of retaining its original form, even after washing or dry cleaning.

Lamifix: is an iron-on transfer film that can be wiped down and is available in a matt or gloss finish. It is the best thing to use on decorative textiles that are likely to get a lot of wear and tear such as placemats, toilet bags, fabric bowls and in fact any crafty work that might need occasional wiping down or that is simply in need of a protective film.

W bum e have 1 p 2 pack er Vilene s priz to inclu ding give awa e Stitc Wundaw y h’n’T eb, Bo e Quic ndaweb ar, kscre a en Tr nd ia lengt hs! ngle

Further Information TTo find out more about Vilene products, please visit: For stockist information, contact Vilene – email: or telephone: 01453 883581

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Going around in circles! Pattern of the Month Simplicity 4236 Swirl into spring in a full circle or half circular skirt using this ‘6 made easy’ Simplicity design.

We are delighted to offe r Simplicity 4236 to reader s of Sewing World at a spe cial discounted price of £4. 05 – which is less than half price. To redeem the offer, visit www.simplicitynewloo and quote SW4236 wh en checking out your order (p&p is 85p). Closing da te 15 February 2015.

What’s in the pack Simplicity 4236, sizes 6-20, includes six variations of skirts, from full circular to half circle and simple A-line. All have side zips and a faced waist.

Fabric choices:

For the circular skirts choose pre-printed border fabrics or silks, cottons and polyesters. For the A-line styles, lightweight linen types, raw silk, crepe back satin and lightweight wools work well. View F is designed for lace.

Sewing tips •


When deciding on size to make, choose the circular styles by waist size and the A-line by hip size if you are pear shaped (then alter the waist to suit). If you particularly like the full skirts but are pear-shaped, choose the half-circle view which will have less fullness at the tummy/hip area.

Check the length of the skirt against your body and preferred length and make any alterations on the tissue before cutting out fabric – if shortening, you can save quite a bit of fabric on the circular skirts!

Use an invisible zip – sew in place with an invisible zip foot before sewing the rest of the side seam.

When working with border fabric or lace, cut each pattern piece from a single layer and match up the pattern on the fabric on each piece carefully.

Wear the circular skirt with a full net petticoat and wide belt to create a 1950s style.

Further information Simplicity 4236 is one of the many separates pattern packs from Simplicity. It is available from or from your local patterns stockist.

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Sewing Connections Pauline shares with us her approach to teaching sewing and dressmaking skills to like-minded people in her own home WRITTEN BY Pauline Hull

Soon spring will be here and we need to be thinking of shedding layers and planning a few exciting additions to our wardrobes. My ‘sewing world’ has taken a new direction as, for many years, I concentrated on making bridal and special occasion wear. I was happily satisfying clients with something a little different, something for them alone with their input and made in sumptuous fabrics to a perfect fit. Alas all this changed and the work I loved has diminished. New work came in the form of bespoke alterations. I had contact with lots of new clients – those who had purchased garments from far flung places via the Internet, all seeking that elusive perfectly fitted piece that (unsurprisingly) did not arrive in the parcel!


Offering alterations did not fulfil my creative desires for very long and so it was time for change again! By chance I met a young woman in my local newsagents and she was browsing through Sewing World. We spoke about her desire to sew nicely fitted clothes in wonderful fabrics and, well, the rest is history. I now give classes on a one-to-one basis and this way each pupil gets individual attention – I’m pleased to say it works very well. I get to meet such interesting people; some are complete novices, others wish to perfect a technique that they struggle with. All pupils have a common desire to sew well-fitted and individual clothes.

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Features Chloe

Chloe was my first pupil and she learned very quickly as she had other skills and knew how to operate a sewing machine. Her head was full of a huge list of garments waiting to be made. In no time she was sewing very neatly, adapting patterns, adding invisible zips, working precise buttonholes. We worked in cottons, silks and tweed and she has gone on to teach these skills now, and often telephones to tell me how her pupils are progressing. Job done!


Anna is another long-term visitor is Anna. I am endlessly entertained by this lively lady as she has travelled far and wide and has so much to tell. We get such a lot done in the allocated lesson time but we do break off half time for tea and cake! This little pause lets us plan the next stage of the work. The cream blouse is a special garment for her as her Grandma left this fabric when she passed away. It has been stored for many years, and someone in the past, maybe Grandma, had already been working on it. Anna chose the pattern and from the best parts of the fabric that had not been marked or suffered iron mould, she cut out the blouse. The result is perfect – a dreamy garment made of recycled fabric in soft cream; a shade so right for her complexion. This gave Anna many new skills including making collars and cuffs, buttonholes and along the way learning how to fit it to her own figure perfectly. The shoulders were made slightly wider and the sleeves a bit narrower due to fabric shortage and the sides were nipped in to flatter her neat waist. This is a nostalgic addition to her wardrobe and will be worn with love and bring happy memories of her Grandma.

Pauline’s Teaching Formula

My formula for teaching is to encourage pupils to cut, sew and finish as I do, with concentration, in good light and never ever sewing when you’re tired. Always read the pattern a couple of times asking questions to iron out any doubts you may have. It’s nice to use the same shops for supplies if you live in the same area. The staff in these places are so knowledgeable and usually sew themselves, and they have fabric skills that they are happy to pass on. If newcomers to the business of sewing are a little overwhelmed by any part of a sewing session, we do it in bite-sized chunks. Just a collar here, topstitching or whatever next – nothing is too much then. Once satisfied with a part where they have been a little puzzled, they will forge ahead with new confidence. If a new technique is to be mastered in a following lesson, I find it a good idea to make a little sample in readiness. We can then chat about this until we are happy, then they will give it a go.

I like newcomers to bring their supplies for the first garment with them on day one. I feel they will be bored quickly if we start to just practice sewing straight seams. I explain how to thread up the machine and then we look through the chosen pattern, measure up and decide if they require any adjustments and from this they will be learning new skills straight away. It is good to end a lesson at a point when this new enthusiast is itching to continue. It’s not long until they are able to take some work home if they have a sewing machine of their own. Some people do not have machines, and are busy for much of the time with families and jobs so these sewing sessions are lovely for them – it’s that all important ‘me’ time. I often bump into pupils in the local fabric shop and it’s yet another chance to catch up with ideas. Each session is a total pleasure for me, as I know I am passing on skills that they will enjoy and save them lots of money in the future too!

Further Information Pauline gives lessons at her home on a quiet country lane in Lancaster, easily accessible from the A6 or M6 J33. To contact Pauline, tel: 01524 793127.

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Make some Valentine’s Day inspired pieces with this great choice of flirty fabrics that will have you falling in love with sewing all over again!

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Knits Know-how

Sponsored by

Part 4 – Special treatments for knits Written BY Wendy Ward

In this fourth article in the series, we focus on special treatments for knitted fabrics such as using interfacing with knits, taping seams, attaching elastic and special edgings and trims for knits.

Interfacing Should you interface knitted fabrics? It seems like a contradiction as interfacing is meant to stabilise and strengthen fabric, yet knitted fabrics stretch. There are occasions when it’s a good idea to use some interfacing in your knitted fabric garment.

To simply thicken and improve the drape and handle of the fabric you can buy stretch interfacing. When using stretch interfacing it’s crucial to make sure you apply it to your fabric in the right direction – it stretches across the width but not the length (just like knitted fabrics). So check that the stretch in your interfacing is going in the same direction as the stretch in your fabric! See what a difference the stretch interfacing makes to these two samples – the interfaced one is much less floppy, however, it will still stretch almost as much as the one without interfacing.

Taping Seams In some knitted fabric garments you will not want particular seams to stretch. For example, I use tape in the shoulders and neck seam of my drapey cardigan as the front of the cardigan can be heavy, which drags and stretches the neck and shoulders out of shape. You will often find taping in the shoulder seams of shop bought t-shirts, to help them keep their shape.

Which interfacing to use depends on what you’re trying to do. To stabilise and strengthen such as on the waist facing of this skirt made from ponte roma and single jersey use a regular medium weight iron-on interfacing which will stop the fabric from stretching and prevent the waist of the skirt crumpling and wrinkling.


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Techniques There are two different ways of taping seams; you can use plain cotton tape or iron-on bias tape. I prefer iron-on bias tape as it’s soft and doesn’t add any bulk.

First stitch it to the wrong side of the garment with the edge of the elastic just inside the cut edge of the fabric. Stitch close to the edge of the elastic – you might need to stretch it as you stitch. Then fold the elastic over to the inside of the garment so that it’s covered with fabric and stitch in place, again close to the edge of the elastic, using a stretch stitch. A 3-step zigzag is ideal for this as it’s a really stretchy stitch. Remember to stretch the fabric again if needed on this second row of stitching to get it to lie flat and not look twisted.

Lingerie elastics often have a little picot decorative edge along one side and are soft on the wrong side which will be against the skin when they’re applied to the edge of the fabric. It’s stitched twice onto the fabric so that the picot trim extends beyond the edge of the fabric. How to use iron-on bias tape: iron it directly onto the wrong side of your cut garment pieces so that the tape covers the seam lines that you want to stabilise. Make garment as normal and stitch on top of the tape when sewing that seam (just like regular interfacing). How to use cotton tape: if you’re overlocking your seam, some overlockers have a tape feeding guide in the presser foot which makes the job a bit easier as the tape is fed into exactly the right position for seaming. If you’re using a regular sewing machine, lay the tape on top of seamline before you join the seam, pin in place through all layers of seam and then machine it all in one go.

Trims When you’re working with knits you often need to use specialist stretch trims. Specialist elastics: Clear elastic (also known as Framilon) is super stretchy, won’t fray when cut and is really easy to work with.

Elastic Lots of knitted fabric garments use elastic (think leggings, pyjama bottoms, lingerie, etc). To stop your elastic twisting and wrinkling in the waist of a knit fabric garment attach the elastic directly to the waist edge rather than feeding it into a casing.

Decorative metallic elastic with lurex which is designed to be visible on the outside of a garment.

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Techniques It’s great for elasticating legs in knickers and swimwear and useful for applying to certain areas of a garment to add ruching.

Name.. Wendy Ward All About Me.. I have my own

business called MIY Workshop in Brighton where I teach sewing, dressmaking and pattern cutting. I am a qualified teacher, have a degree in fashion and spent 7 years working in the fashion industry before starting to teach in 2007. My first dressmaking book “The Beginner’s Guide to Dressmaking” is available now. I also design my own range of sewing patterns called MIY Collection.

Stretch trims: Finishing edges of garments with bias binding is both decorative and neat, but you can’t really use bias binding with stretch fabrics as it doesn’t stretch enough. Fear not, you can buy all sorts of stretch pre-fold binding which will give a really professional and neat finish to your knitted fabric garments. They’re available in lots of different styles from stretch satin ribbon binding to cotton herringbone effect and chiffon. I’ve used a stretch chiffon binding to finish the neck edge of this cowl neck top; it’s so lightweight that it doesn’t affect the drape and it gives a nice finish to the inside of the neck edge which is visible when the garment is worn. It’s simply attached using a stretch stitch like a 3-step zigzag.


The range shown here is ‘Utopia’ by Frances Newcombe

So, where to buy these specialist materials? They’re not always easily available in your local sewing shop, but the following places stock a good selection: Kleins – MacCulloch & Wallis – Vena Cava – Minerva Crafts –

Next month Wendy has designed a pattern for knit fabrics for you to practice the techniques!

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Zinnia by Colette Patterns

a downloaded pattern experience As someone who has never attempted to sew any commercial clothing patterns before, Vick Guthrie of Crafty Goodness attempts to make the Colette Zinnia skirt using a digitally downloaded pattern. WRITTEN BY Vick Guthrie

Introduction Ask me to whip up a cushion, a quilt or a pair of oven gloves – no problem, but ask me to attempt a clothes pattern and I may just run away and hide. As someone who sews to make a living I recently thought enough was enough, and finally decided it was time to take a stab at a clothes pattern. If others can do it, so can I!

Pattern: Colette Zinnia Difficulty: Beginner Preparation With a positive attitude I headed straight to the Colette website – I’d heard great things about their patterns and that they were good for beginners. After finding a pattern that I liked (and having triple checked it was marked for ‘beginners’), I purchased the download version for $12 (that’s just over £7) as opposed to the paper version for $16 (£9.60). Zinnia is a ‘3-in-1’ pattern and I wanted to make version 3. The download was a ‘zip’ file, which contained a range of files: contents, instructions and a file with all three versions for wide printers. The instructions include detailed information about what sort of fabrics to purchase (though I had already purchased mine – a khaki cotton), guidelines and diagrams for pattern assembly, getting started, laying out, transferring markings, cutting fabric, finding your size, and even cutting layouts so you can see how to lay the pattern pieces out on the fabric before cutting.


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Features I thought it was really useful to have diagrams for both 44" and 60" width fabrics. When I purchased the download as opposed to the actual paper pattern I thought I’d be saving money and time. Then I realised I’d ran out of printer ink. I decided to print off the version with all three options on in case I wanted to make more at a later date. It used a LOT of paper and in retrospect I felt it was probably better value (and less hassle) to buy it made up already. After a trip to the printers I was £10 lighter but had the printed version in my hands ready to make. Well, almost – first I had to get home and put it together.

After a quick phone call to a friend, I found out the ‘old fashioned’ way of doing it using tailors tacks – stitching through the paper and both layers of fabric at once then pulling the thread apart so one remains in each layer of fabric. I felt this area could have been much better explained.

I also found it was difficult working with printer paper as it was so thick to pin and stitch through – especially areas with Sellotape.

Assembling the Skirt

Two hours later I sat on my sewing room floor, one roll of Sellotape lighter and wishing I had a bigger sewing room. The pattern was BIG. I was, however, pleasantly surprised by how easy it was to find out which piece went where. The instructions file was clearly laid out, though it did seem like an awful lot of information for a beginner’s skirt and did feel a bit daunting. I managed to follow the instructions for positioning the pattern and cutting the fabric (I used the skirt front and back pieces from version 2 as it was shorter) but I did struggle with transferring the markings – the pattern says to transfer them with chalk but I couldn’t work out how to get the markings accurately transferred onto the fabric without lifting the paper from the fabric and ending up with inaccurate markings.

Once markings were transferred, I staystitched the waistline on the skirt front and back pieces. Then, I applied the interfacing to the waistband pieces and stitched them together. I went on to create the skirt shell, sewing pieces together to create the main skirt section. Here there was a handy link in the instructions on how to sew a French seam.

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Techniques Zinnia is designed to be made with voiles so usually a lining is added at this stage but my cotton was thick enough without so I got stuck straight into the pleats. I found this a bit fiddly. I basted each pleat (all 12 of them!), then topstitched.

The Finished Item

I love that the finished skirt sits nice and flat over the tummy area then flares out. The finished skirt has some really nice movement to it and a distinctive swirl when you move. Next time I will choose a patterned fabric – for my first attempt I didn’t want to have to worry about pattern matching. I felt there was a lot of ‘faffing’ about for a beginner pattern – not that it was difficult, but it took a lot longer to make and prepare the fabric than I’d expected for a relatively simple skirt. Next, I used the link in the instructions document to link to the tutorial on how to sew in the invisible zipper. The tutorial was really good but it’s a pain if you don’t have a laptop or computer handy. The pattern then instructed you to finish the edges for the zipper but didn’t say how, which I found confusing. You’re told to sew the waistband before attaching it to the skirt and when I attached mine, the waistband was way too short for the skirt. I ended up adding in an extra pleat on each side so the waistline of the skirt would fit into the waistband. I then went on to edge stitch the bottom of the waistband, add the button and buttonhole and hem the bottom to finish.

Overall, this took two hours to line up, cut out the fabric and add all the markings (not including the time it took to go to the shop, wait for it to be printed, put it all together). Then it took another two to three hours to put together. Although I don’t think the skirt looks exactly like the drawing, I do really like the style and it was certainly a learning experience. I am pleased that I finally attempted a clothes pattern and am looking forward to finding more patterns to try!

Further Information Vick is a crafter and freelance writer. She spends most of her time adding to her fabric collection and hanging out with her partner and five cats in Suffolk. Vick can be found blogging at Crafty Goodness ( and on Facebook ( To find out more about Colette Patterns, visit


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A Crafty Sale -

Selling your handmade products at craft fairs Part two – At the event and afterwards

WRITTEN BY Fiona Pullen

In part one of this feature, we covered how to decide what to sell and where to sell as well as getting ideas for the layout of your stall. In the second part of this feature we will look at what to do at the show, and after.

At the show So now you are at the show, with your stall looking beautiful and your layout is making the most of the space you have. Your products are clearly labelled and priced and some flyers or business cards are in an easily reachable place for customers. What do you do now? If there are lots of people around, try to be friendly and available if someone wants to speak to you, but don’t be pushy or trying to do the ‘hard sell’. If people feel that they can browse your products at leisure and ask you any questions they want, they are much more likely to buy. If they feel uncomfortable because you are staring at them, trying to force them into conversation or giving a big sales pitch then they will probably leave as fast as they can! If people want to talk then do chat to them, but try to turn it to your advantage. Use the opportunity to conduct some market research, find out what kind of products they like to buy, what they think of your range, what they think of the event, what similar events they go to (ie. potential future venues for you to sell at). Try not to allow one person to monopolise your attention

MWL Events

if you can see there are other people interested in buying your products and wanting your attention. A polite but firm “it was lovely to speak to you but I must deal with this customer” will normally do the trick. If it’s quiet – you still need to look welcoming – standing there with a grumpy look on your face because you are cold, tired or bored is not going to entice people to come and look at your stand! Even if you don’t feel great try to pretend you do and keep a smile on your face. If you have space it’s a good idea to bring a seat so you don’t have to stand up all day, this will also help with the tired and grumpy factor. If possible bring something along to make during quiet periods, allowing people to see you making one of the items you sell. This could lead to someone asking for a bespoke order, or start a conversation with someone who ends up buying. It also helps to relieve the boredom too.

Easily accessible products


If other traders nearby are also quiet why not use this as a chance for networking? You could find out if a lull at that time of day is normal for that event, where else they recommend selling etc. You’ll probably find some will do several of the same events as you so it’s good to make friends. However, don’t let that distract you from your ultimate goal of selling your craft products. If someone approaches your stall whilst you are chatting with another exhibitor then give the potential customer your attention. Some people wouldn’t feel comfortable interrupting you whilst you were talking, and you could lose a sale as a result.

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Features Another thing you can do in quieter periods is make notes about what was working at this event for you (stall layout, particular products selling well or your prices) and what isn’t working. Take a look around at how the other traders are doing and make notes on how you could improve things for your next event. If you don’t have all your stock out on display why not swap stock around in the quiet periods. Remove anything that has not been selling well and put something different in its place. If that sells well then make a note of that so next time you know to put it out from the start. If you sell online, or have a mailing list, do remind people of this during the show and just when you are completing a sale is a good time. If people express an interest but don’t have the funds to buy now, give them a card so they can order later, or get them onto your mailing list, which could lead to a sale when they are ready.

After the event Once you have recovered, it is time to analyse and to think about what went well and what didn’t and what you could do to maximise sales next time. • Make sure you go over your figures – did you make enough money to cover costs? If not is there anything you can do to make sure you do next time or are you better off not doing that event again? • Doing craft fairs does not always have to be about covering your costs as you may choose to exhibit as a marketing exercise. If that’s the case then you need to think whether you got what you wanted from it? • Did it lead to online orders after the show? • Did hundreds of people take your flyer? • Did you get lots of sign ups to your mailing list?

Simply Solids – Using

wall space for display

If you are doing several events it might be worth writing your after show thoughts down in a book along with the figures so that when you are planning the next year’s events you can look back through and see what worked for you and what wasn’t worth the money. If it really was a failure then go right back to your research stage and start looking at both where to sell and what to sell again. • Were your products not right for the visitors at that show? • Would you be better selling somewhere else, or selling different products? Use your initial research, and your notes from during the show to figure out what went wrong and what your next steps should be.

Taking it forward For more advice on selling your handmade items do take a look at the following websites. Best of luck with selling your handmade products!

Further Information Fiona is the owner of The Sewing Directory ( and the author of ‘Craft a Creative Business’, the handbook for people wanting to turn their love of craft into a business. Find out more at: Jen Goodwin – Products facing out

towards customers

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Creative Clippings:

tt Laura Stru

That Loving Feeling! Get romantic with these Valentine’s inspirations Be My Valentine Cross Stitch Pattern, £3.28 instant download from Lady Lexi Designs on

Handmade Wish List Hand Stitched Origami Heart Card, £3.28 from La Marmota Cafe on

We make I Love You Heart Pincushion, £13.77 from The Lonely Heart on

Embrace your feminine side with this stunning collection of designs from Leanne Marshall for Simplicity. These fabulous dresses are perfect for special occasions with flattering princess seams and sweetheart necklines. Select from a full or fitted skirt, straps or even sheer sleeves. Simplicity Leanne Marshall 1353, sizes 4-20 £8.15,


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Regulars Love Heart Tea Light Candles, £4.95 per set of six,

Wooden LOVE Blocks, £8.95,

February Must Haves!

Stylish ideas for a romantic February! Love Birds Motif Tray, £29,

Red Felt Heart Purse, £36.95,

Cross Stitch iPhone Case, £10.99

Polka Dot Love Heart Cookie Tin, £4,

Laura Strutt is a keen stitcher and author of The Sewing Manual (Haynes 2013, £21.99) and The DIY Wedding Manual (Haynes 2014, £18.99) She also offers daily handmade inspiration over at creative lifestyle blog All prices correct at time of going to press

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Chosen For You By


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Appliqué Art Freehand machine embroidered pictures By Abigail Mill ­• Beautiful photography ­• Projects are simple to understand and easy to follow ­• Packed with inspiration, advice, hints and tips! Colourful layered fabrics and delicate, sketch­ like stitching are combined to beautiful effect in this inspiring book from renowned textile artist, Abigail Mill. From fraying and layering to free machine embroidery and embellishment, this gorgeous book guides you step by step through Abigail’s techniques. Create five stunning projects featuring themes such as teatime treats, animals and the seaside, and be inspired by galleries of her quirky, ethereal work.

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Masterclass Sewing Skills! Part 5 – Hems


hen you sew something, the cut edges of the fabric will either be sewn as part of a seam or finished off by creating a hem. Here we look at a number of methods of hemming your projects.

Overview There are many different ways of hemming fabric and the choice of method is up to you, but you might want to consider the kind of fabric you are sewing with, the overall look of the item you are sewing and where on a garment the edge is to be hemmed. We tend to think of a hem as the bottom of trouser legs, dresses or skirt. We might also think of the bottom of curtains having a hem, but not consider that the sides are also hemmed, as is the top of a bag or opening of a pocket. In fact any raw edge that requires a neat finish and is not being stitched to another piece of fabric is likely to require hemming.

Written By Angela Venn

A different look can be achieved with a deeper hem for curtains, or a narrow turn for the hem of a shirt. You might also see two parallel lines of stitching as a deliberate feature with contrasting thread. This can be done by using the side of the presser foot as a guide for sewing the second row. Deep hems such as these are not suitable on curves.

Method 2 – Single Turn A single turn hem is also very simple to do and is sometimes easier to handle than the double turn. It means that the raw edge will have to be neatened with an overlocker or edge stitch with the sewing machine.

• •

Draw in the hem-line with chalk on the right side of the fabric. Neaten edge.

Method 1 – Double Turn A double turn hem is the most popular way of hemming and is the easiest to do. Most commonly used on casual garments as the stitch line is visible on the right side of fabric. Suitable for most fabrics except stretch fabrics. Can be used on heavy fabrics but tends to be bulky. It is carried out exactly as it suggests. • Draw a line with chalk on the right side of fabric to indicate the hem-line position. • The distance between the hem-line and cut edge is called the inlay, press this up, wrong sides together. • Turn the cut edge in towards the hem crease. • Stitch a pin head from the fold.


Turn fabric on chalk line wrong sides together.

Sew through neatened edge.

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Techniques Method 3 – Pin / Roll Hem

Cut a 3cm wide bias strip of fabric to the length required, fold in half lengthways and press.

Pin raw edges of bias to curved edge right sides together and stitch with a 3-4mm seam allowance.

Turn folded edge of bias to wrong side of fabric so that the join is exactly on the turn edge, and press.

Sometimes we need a really fine hem, typically for fabrics such as chiffon or a really steep curve you might find on a full skirt. It’s widely used in the bridal industry for the many full layers of delicate fabric. It’s not suitable for stretch or loosely woven fabrics. The pin-stitched method is a great way of doing this and can produce a really neat clean finish. It does require a little practice but once mastered is a great technique to have in your arsenal. • •

Overlocker – the majority of overlocker machines have a roll hem setting. Once the machine is set ready it is a simply a case of passing the fabric under the presser foot and letting it do the work for you. It can be tricky navigating around corners, but practice makes perfect. Because the stitching is wrapped around the fabric edge without a turn there is no bulk whatsoever. Colour matching the thread can be the biggest challenge, especially as the thread is highly visible, unless you deliberately choose a contrasting thread.

Fold the smallest amount of fabric possible (2mm) and position on the sewing machine. Stitch in the middle and fold as you sew.

Fold a second time and stitch through middle of turn.

Method 4 – Bound hem Attaching a strip of bias cut fabric is a great way of hemming a curved edge such as a neckline or armhole. Perfect for stretch or lightweight fabrics.

Sewing Machine – a less visible method than the overlocker and a little trickier to do. Essentially a double turn hem that is very thin. It can be difficult to press in place before sewing and requires practice to perform in one process. The best results can be achieved if carried out in two steps.

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ch or

Mark the hemline on the right side of the fabric with chalk and neaten raw edge.

Press inlay up along chalk line wrong sides together.

s ar.

sers depth m

Stitch both sides of tape by machine.

Press up inlay wrong sides together and hand stitch.



Stitch close to folded edge of bias.

Method 5 – Invisible hem Some items are best suited to an invisible hem such as a smart skirt or formal trousers. This involves hand stitching and is always worth practicing a little before you sew your actual garment. Examples of poor hand stitching

Method 6 – Turn-up hem •

Hand stitch to secure hem.

Some trouser hems will benefit from the addition of kick tape being attached to the inlay, which is commonly found on men’s formal trousers. The addition of tape adds weight to the hem helping it to sit better and add protection against wear and tear.

Adding a turn-up (sometimes called a cuff) is simple to do and can add interest to your garments. Best suited to formal trousers but in theory can be applied to most hemlines where a medium to heavyweight fabric is being used. Decide on the desired depth of your turn-up. Double that amount and add 2cm. For this sample I have calculated a 5cm turn up, therefore needing 12cm (5+5+2) of fabric to create the turn-up.

Stitches showing on the right side of the fabric.

Stitches too high above the top of the inlay.

• •

Cut a length of 1cm kick tape. Position on inlay against the hemline. •

Draw a line at your finished hem length allowing 12cm below that, draw a second line 5cm below hem line, cut and neaten edge.

Stitches too far apart.


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Techniques •

Turn in fabric to inside along second line and press.

There will be a visible row of stitching on right side of fabric. •

• •

Stitch around the inlay edge by machine.

Turn fabric up along chalk line on right side of fabric and press, the row of stitching will now be hidden.

With an hand sewing needle, make three small tack stitches in the seam allowance catching the back of the turn-up.

Be sure the tack does not show on the right side.

Join Angie next month when she will show us different facings.

Angela Venn runs the Venn School of Sewing and Tailoring Services in Cardiff. The School offers courses in design, pattern cutting, dressmaking, tailoring and interiors to suit all levels of skills. Visit, tel: 029 2038 8810 to find out more.

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A World of Quilts Cassandra Ellis ISBN 9781909342149 Step inside to a sumptuous world of quilts – not just a project book but a celebration of 25 beautiful, traditional quilt designs from around the world. With stunning styled photography giving this book a ‘coffeetable’ feel, Cassandra talks about the origins of quilt designs before offering her own take on these classic designs using soft, unfussy colour schemes that are easy on the eye. Learn all you need to know with a comprehensive techniques guide to show you the ropes. If you love the worn and washed look of old quilts, this book will appeal and guide you to create your own heirloom pieces that should be used and loved. This title is published by Jacqui Small LLP and is priced at £25.00. To purchase for £20.00 with free UK p&p please tel: 01903 828503 or email and quote offer code APG272 with your name and address.

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Gertie Sews Vintage Casual Gretchen Hirsch ISBN 9781617690747 Gretchen “Gertie” Hirsch’s second book is a delight for fans of mid-twentieth century ‘sportswear’ a.k.a. casuals! Spiral-bound, for ease of use and complete with a huge pack of full-sized patterns to trace off (US sizes 2 – 16; UK 8 – 20), the book is divided into two main parts. Part one is a very comprehensive guide to the skills you need to sew ‘sportswear’ and include sections on fabrics, sewing skills and pattern fitting. Part two is a complete range of amazing designs for you to sew and includes twenty-first century updates for 40s style blouses, cigarette pants, pencil skirts and shift dresses to name a few! All in all, a packed book with loads of ideas for your wardrobe. You’ll feel right at home on the set of ‘Roman Holiday’! This title is published by Stewart Tabori & Chang and is priced at £21.99. To purchase for £18.99 with free UK p&p please tel: 01903 828503 and quote offer code 50511.


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Regulars How to sew Beautiful Aprons Christa Rolf ISBN 9781782211518


Inspired to get in the kitchen and bake? Then you’ll need a peg full of aprons to keep you clean! This title offers 25 inventive apron projects from full-length pinnies – some with added details including pockets and buttons to attach a towel (very handy) – to shorter waist apron designs and some that are more on the frilly side! With styles to suit the kids and Mr. BBQ too, each design is clearly illustrated with step-by-step diagrams and well described with full-sized pattern pieces, if necessary, included in a pouch at the back of the book. This title is published by Search Press and is priced at £9.99.

Fleece Fantastic Rachel Henderson ISBN 9781782491460 Baby it’s cold outside, so why not get sewing some quick and easy fleece projects? This title has 35 amazing and clearly illustrated projects including hats, slippers, boot warmers, gloves, scarves and bags for all the family as well as home interiors ideas including throws, cushions and placemats. Fleece is a cinch to sew as it doesn’t fray and it comes in a bright array of patterns and colours to choose from and the book is full of ideas to add creative touches and embellishments to your makes. Patterns are printed in the book – some of them will need enlarging – so you can get started on some winter warmers straight away! This title is published by CICO Books and is priced at £12.99. To purchase for £9.99 with free UK p&p please tel: 01256 302699 and quote offer code GLR CODE O6O. For more information, please visit


The Beginner’s Guide to Dressmaking Wendy Ward ISBN 9781446304945 Wendy is a familiar name to regular readers of Sewing World and she has written this brilliant guide for beginner dressmakers in her own edgy style. She guides the reader through tools and equipment before introducing a capsule wardrobe of wearable pieces, ranging from the easiest t-shirt through a maxi dress, comfy casual trousers, a fishtail skirt, zipped jacket and a shift dress that will all appeal to fashion-conscious sewers. All the techniques you need are comprehensively shared with her wonderful clear photographs that are meaningful and welllabelled, before she goes on to show you how to customise the basic garments you have made to create unique signature pieces. The book comes complete with a full-sized pattern pack for all the garments in the book – it is refreshing that Wendy chooses not to label her size chart with conventional ‘sizes’ but lists measurements that range, for example, from a 84cm bust to a 101cm bust to guide your own sewing. A great book with a fashionable and fresh approach to dressmaking. This title is published by David & Charles and is priced at £19.99.

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Ready… Get Set… Sew! Ensure sewing success with our sewing guide to get you started, or refresh your memory… Using your Full-Size Pattern Sheet


For projects with a pattern, first look at the glossary on the pattern sheet to identify the colour of the pieces for your project. Looking at the ‘To Cut’ list and the layout guide (if applicable) you will see how many pieces there are to find. Each piece is labelled and identified e.g. ‘1 of 7’, ‘2 of 7’ etc. It may be helpful to follow the pieces using your finger and then highlight each piece around the edge with a highlighter marker.

High Bust Bust





Some larger pieces are split in two but there will always be a clear dashed join line for you to match up with the other half. Take some large sheets of thin paper or a roll of greaseproof paper and simply trace out your pieces with a fine black pen (for your size if making clothing), taking care to mark all the notches, dots and darts and join pieces up if necessary. Cut out your pieces in fabric and sew away!

Check your Size Take your measurements and compare with our project sizing charts, making sure your tape measure is straight as you go around your back – best to get a friend to help! If you fall between two sizes, make the larger size for a more comfortable fit. We suggest making a toile from calico if the garment is more fitted in style. • • • •


High Bust – Above the fullest part of your bust and just under your arms. Bust – Straight across your full bust and around your back. Waist – Where your body naturally curves in. Hip – Around your hips at the widest point and the fullest part of your bottom.

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Regulars Fabric Terminology Selvedge – Finished straight edge of the fabric, often printed with the manufacturer’s name. Grain line – This is normally marked on pattern pieces as a double-headed arrow and should be parallel to the selvedge, or the bias if a bias-cut project. Bias – Line of fabric at 45° to the straight edge, which gives a bit of stretch if pulled.

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Nap – Fabrics with an obvious pile (nap) where the direction of the pile needs to be kept the same when making your project.

Fat Quarter – Quilting term for a piece of fabric cut from a 44" wide bolt measuring ½yd and then cut across the width at 22".

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(It is recommended that fabrics are pre-shrunk before sewing, by washing at recommended temperature, drying and pressing thoroughly).

Glossary Some useful terms used in Sewing World… Basting (Tacking) – Temporary large stitches to hold pieces together. Seam allowance – These will be included in the pattern pieces unless otherwise stated and will vary between projects. Check carefully in ‘Good to Know’ to ensure success.

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Pressing – Not ironing, pressing is the action of pressing the iron onto fabric and then lifting without moving around. It helps to set stitches so that seams lie flat and crisp. Don’t skimp on pressing! Finger Press – Literally a light crease with your fingernail. Stabiliser – Interfacing or interlining used to give some stability and strength to your fabric, it can be sewn-in or ironed on. Topstitch – Neat straight stitches on the right side of the fabric to define a seam.

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Staystitch – A line of stitching to keep curves and bias edges from stretching. Understitch – Stitched row to prevent a facing from rolling to the outer part of the project.

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WOF (Width of Fabric) – Across the width, selvedge to selvedge.

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Fabulous savings for a New Year project! Rag Rug Making Special Offer This fantastic bundle offer by Jenni Stuart-Anderson focuses on contemporary rag rug making blending traditional techniques with new ideas and modern materials. The step by step projects in this book will whet your appetite to have a good go! Ranging from easy to a piece combining 3 techniques.

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HAMPSHIRE Sew Busy Tel. 01252 444220 Unit B, Brankstone Chambers, Branksomewood Road, Fleet, Hampshire. GU51 1DW

HEREFORDSHIRE Badder Fabrics & Haberdashery Tel. 01432 379137 36a Aubrey Street, Hereford. HR4 0BU Email: Open: 9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, closed on Sunday Stockist of Husqvarna sewing machines Major credit cards accepted

Craft Corner Ltd Tel. 01763 268686 Philimore Garden Centre, Cambridge Rd., Melbourn, Herts. SG8 6EY Email: Open: Mon-Sat 9am-5pm Sunday 10am-4pm Janome Sewing Machines now available

Fashion ‘n’ Fabrics Tel. 01727 865038 24 Beech Road, St Albans. AL3 5AS Fabrics & patterns for dressmaking, American fabrics for patchwork, haberdashery & much more SUFFOLK Beccles Sewing & Handicraft Tel. 01502 441638 15a Blyburgate, Beccles, Suffolk. NR34 9TB 9am-5pm Mon, Tues, Thurs. 9am-3pm Weds and 9am-4pm Sat Major credit cards accepted WEST MIDLANDS Windsor Crafts Tel. 01902 340053 14 Springhill Lane, Penn, Wolverhampton. WV4 4SH Open Mon-Sat 10.00am-4.30pm Items stocked: 100% cotton fabrics, knitting wool and patterns, crochet yarns and patterns, beads, buttons, braids, ribbons, waddings, haberdashery, cross stitch kits, books and more

YORKSHIRE Oh Sew Sweet Shop Tel. 01226 386863 6-7 Fountain Parade, Mapplewell, Barnsley. S75 6FW Open Mon 12.30pm-5pm, Tues 9.15am-5pm, Weds 9.15am-5pm, Thurs 9.15-9pm, Fri 9.15am-5pm, Sat 9.15am-5pm, Sun open if we have a class Classes and workshops Duttons For Buttons Tel. 01423 502092 A Button & Ribbon Paradise Personal shoppers welcome in Harrogate • York • Ilkley For all your haberdashery requirements Mail Order SCOTLAND, CENTRAL Pembertons Sewing & Craft Centre Tel. 01786 462993 21-25 Friars St., Stirling. FK8 1HA Scotland’s Premier Sewing Centre Sales & Repairs for all leading makes of Sewing & Overlocking Machines, Presses & Cabinets. Needlecrafts, Haberdashery, Dress & Craft Fabrics, Wool & Patterns. Shop online at

Advertise your shop here at just £15 + vat Contact Michelle today. Phone: 01684 588534 or email: To become a stockist call Angela on 01684 588568 or email Sewing World February 2015 WEBDIRSW02.15.indd 95

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PFAFF Creative 4 + Standard Embroidery Unit, ideal for quilting, embroideries and general sewing, inc. 2 hoops, instructions, sewing feet, leads and unused CD, well and loved and beautiful machine from Clean Smoke Free Home, seller upgrading, buyer collects or possible delivery if near, price £1,600. 02392 263891, Hants.

BROTHER 4000D sewing and embroidery machine, complete with hoops, feet, manual and hard cases for storage, try before you buy, in good condition, £1,295 ono. 01623 490898, Mansfield. ELNA Excellence computerised embroidery machine, bought as 2nd machine and only used once and it’s now not needed, in “out of the box”

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NEXT MONTH... Spring is springing!


Get ready for spring with our fresh projects • Decorative hen • Liberty Kingly cord panel dress • Easter bags to make ahead • First part of a dining set

AND many more ideas for you!

In-depth features and techniques including ‘Learn around Britain’ course round-up! PLUS Enter our ‘make it’ competition to celebrate Sewing World’s 20th birthday with £1,000 worth of prizes!

March 2015 issue on sale 20 February 2015

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Sewing World February 2015

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The Final Thread Hi, I’m Kerry and it’s been 15 minutes since I last sewed. As well as quilting, I make clothes and write a popular blog, living much of my sewing life online. My passion is vintage fabric and patterns and I’m always on the look out for the latest sewing tips, tools and trends which I can’t wait to share with you - no product placement here, all humble opinions are my own! Dressmaking is enjoying a resurgence, although for many of us it never went away! There are new ways to access both patterns and tuition. I’ve found three options with three different price points, all aimed at making a beginner’s skirt. Deborah Moebes from has a new beginner pattern range, ‘Learn as You Sew’, with a twist: it’s an e-course where you can print out the pattern pieces via PDF download and watch as you sew. Her first pattern is the ‘Get Up and Go Skirt’. It is the most expensive of the three options at $22 (approx. £14) but remember the price includes the tuition element as well as the pattern. If dressmaking is a totally foreign language to you, and you don’t have time for local dressmaking classes this is a great way to learn how to sew. You can see a YouTube preview of the pattern concept here The skirt e-course can be found here: If you want to achieve a similar look but don’t need the video support, Liesl Gibson’s downloadable pattern, ‘The Everyday Skirt’ is a good choice. Find it at and check out Liesl’s Flickr group to see different versions of the skirt made by happy customers. Tasia from Sewaholic also offers a beginner flared skirt pattern that includes detailed instructions. ‘Rae’ is available as a PDF or a paper pattern and the shape is designed to flatter and avoid that ‘first skirt’ look. There are a range of options for fullness and hem lengths, and pockets are also included. You can find lots of extra construction pics and additional instructions to guide you at the Sewaholic website: For those happy inserting a zipper or ready to learn, try Simplicity 2226 Misses’ Skirt. The addition of a zip negates the need for elastic at the waist, producing a more flattering shape for many body types. Anna Graham ran a popular sew-along on her blog where she covered each stage of construction in detail from a home sewing perspective.The


online sew-along takes you through the main construction stages of a pattern, usually week-by-week, with a mix of written information, photographs and videos. They are usually free to access and there’s often an interactive element so you can ask questions and share your pattern experiences. There’s often a chance to post photos of finished garments, which can be invaluable when you are working out if a style or a fabric print will suit you. You can read Anna’s Simplicity 2226 skirt sew-along posts for free at I have piles and piles of fabric, for dressmaking, quilting and bags and accessories, but there’s always room for more. Every now and again I see another print that I can’t live without. Rae Hoekstra’s latest collection for Cloud 9 features playful simple designs printed on organic cotton corduroy. I’m a sucker for Scandinavian style and bold retro prints and ‘Small World’ ticks both those boxes. Rae Hoekstra is also known for her Made by Rae pattern lines. This collection has young children in mind but I can rather too easily imagine myself in a soft, pink corduroy skirt covered in lemons. The Simplicity 2226 skirt could be a perfect match! ‘Small World’ should be arriving in Cloud 9 fabric stockists anytime now! Whilst I try and justify the purchase of fruit themed fabric for future clothing, I’ve got more practical tasks that I should be getting on with like finishing a quilt that’s been folded in a bag for at least the last year. See you next month for more finds, tips and ideas!

Kerry Green is co-author of ‘500 Quilt Blocks’ and has contributed to a range of quilting books and magazines. You can find more sewing tips, free patterns, tutorials and more at Kerry’s blog:

February 2015 Sewing World

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yle t s c ist i w s t s a a l A c t...with bine a c g The Horn sewin

Horn Crafting… Quilting… Sewing Furniture


8 large castors; so its easy to move around and well supported whilst its being used.

The super new door design allows complete freedom whilst sitting at your machine

Fitted with our push down release ‘maxi’ air-lifter system. This fits virtually all sewing machines (even ‘long’ armed) and will lift your sewing machine into place to be ready to use in a matter of seconds. (If you have any doubts, please contact us to find out more information on fitting your particular brand of sewing machine) Considering its relatively compact dimensions it has a huge seating area with a ‘centre of the needle’ sitting position for even the largest of the long armed machines on our market today. A flatbed insert custom cut to fit your sewing machine- included Lots of places to safely store machine accessories, cottons, threads etc... Lockable with a key. Finished with an attractive soft formed edge when its closed. Available in 3 great finishes from stock. Delivered fully assembled by our own delivery vehicles.

For more information Download our latest brochure now from;

Set your machine up in seconds…. …. No need to lift, carry or struggle to find where to use your sewing machine again!

Order yours now from your nearest Horn specialist listed below or contact us on 01793 834304 for more information Beds



Dowlings Sew/mach, Wickford 01268 562022

Tudor Rose,Patchwork, Oakley, 01234 824983 Sew Devine, Reading 0118 926 8664

Superstitch, Leigh on Sea 01702 478830

Greater London


Lewisham & Deptford Sew/Mach 0208 6921077


Sewcreative, Cambridge 01223 350691


Jaycotts, Chester 01244 394099


Direct Sew/ Machines, Redruth, 01209 216942


Exeter Sew/Machines, Exeter 01392 275660


Hansons Fabrics, Sturminster Newton 01258 472698


Couling Sew/Machines, Lincoln 01522 521841

CCB Sew/ Machines, Rochester, 01634 841597

Sew-works, Ewell, 0208 393 8488

The Sew/Knit Centre, Southport, 01704 534688

The World of Sewing, Pratts Bottom 01689 638638

Sewmaster Sew/Machines, Reading 0118 957 1845 Direct Sew/Machines, Bristol 0117 977 8216

Sewfine Sew/Machines, Watford 01923 693734

Regent Sew/Machines, Ilford 0208 478 0669

Maidstone Sewing Centre, Maidstone 01622 670254 Sew Lovely Ltd., Canterbury, 01227 711886 The World of Sewing, Tunbridge Wells 01892 533188

Wimbledon Sew/Machines, Wimbledon 0208 542 5240

Welling Sew/Machines, Welling 0208 304 0470

Greater Manchester


Bambers Sew/Machines, Manchester 0161 707 7786

Dalby & Jones Ltd., Preston, 01772 254558


Etty-Lilly, Bolton le Sands, 01524 734713

Westend Sew/Centre, Cheltenham 01242 244025


Hobkirk Sew/Mach Ltd., Blackburn 01254 693555

Lords at Oswaldtwistle Mills, 01254 389171

Hampshire Sewing Machines, Fareham 01329 280499


Rona Sewing Machines, Waltham X 01992 640250

Retailers marked to the right with a

S A Sew/Machines 01706 355529



Sew Creative, Norwich 01603 305888 Sew/Mach World, Kings Lynn 01553 773362


Sew-Northampton, Northampton 01604 637200


Coles Sewing Centre Ltd., Nottingham 0115 988 1550 Singer Sewing Centre, Beeston, 0115 922 3904


GTS Sew/Mach Banbury 01295 701384


Husqvarna Studio, Bath 01225 482413

L.M.Nutt Sew/Machines, Sutton Coldfield 0121 373 5497


Quilting Fayre, Wroughton 07503 360258

Sew creative, Bury St. Edmunds 01284 755459


The World of Sewing, Croydon 0208 681 1811

Tyne & Wear

Tullys, Sunderland 0191 565 7995 The Fat Quarters, Newcastle 01207 565728 01207 565728

Flynns Sew/centre, At Browns of York,01904 561234 Helens Houses, Doncaster 01302 708227 M.K.C. Sew/Mach Leeds 0113 245 3156

Singer Machines Ltd, Whitley Bay 0191 252 5825

West Midlands

Brewers Sew/Mach Ltd., Wolverhampton 01902 458885


Frank Nutt Sew/Machines, Kings Heath.0121 444 3978

are Horn Superstores holding 3 or more current cabinets on display and a

Creative Hands 2, Worcester 01905 24940 Whiterose Sew/Craft Centre Harrogate 01423 503767

Sewmaster Sew/Machines, Guildford 01483 567609

D.C.Nutt Sew/Machines, Bloxwich 01922 497603

Bredons Sew/Machines, Taunton 01823 272450



Sewing Centre, Shrewsbury 01743 343902



David Drummond, Edinburgh 0131 539 7766 Pembertons Sew & Craft Centre, Stirling 01786 462993


Newport Sew/Centre, Newport 01633 284646 Sew/Mach Direct, Wrexham, 0800 092 5215

has 6 or more on display (The sewing machine and accessories are not included)

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Two stunning Computerised Long-arm Models We’ve taken all the best and easiest to use features from all our other models, added even more and packed them into these stunning long-arm machines, so it’s no surprise the Memory Craft 8900QCP and the Memory Craft 8200QC have been a popular addition to our range. The sheer length of the arm space at 280mm (11”) makes them ideal for those larger projects. With the built-in AcuFeed system for precise fabric handling, an easy change needle plate to enhance straight stitch performance, 9mm stitch width, pattern elongation up to 5 times standard length, a great range of stitches and alphabets, an automatic needle threader, a speed controller and a start/stop button if you choose not to use the foot control, you can rest assured these machines offer spectacular stitch quality at speeds up to 1,000 stitches per minute. There is even a remote thread-cutter port on the MC8900QCP! It doesn’t matter whether you are quilting, dressmaking, crafting or making home furnishings, with creativity this easy you’ll just want to get started.



For further information: Telephone 0161 666 6011 or visit

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