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from the publishers of Interweave Knits ®

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simple-stylish-spirited

HOT KNITS FOR SUMMER

LINEN Summer’s other favorite yarn

LACE GETS LOUD

PLUS GROW YOUR OWN YARN BRIGHT NEON KNITS


Coming January 2014!

WITH VICKIE HOWELL

Thank you to our generous sponsors:

Denise Interchangeable Knitting & Crochet Mango Moon

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Halcyon Yarn

Trendsetter Yarns

The Knitting Boutique

Zen Yarn Garden

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contents

projects

knitscene Summer 2014

10 Designer Petaluma Tee

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Grace Akhrem

Kaweah Tunic

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Grace Akhrem

Tuolumne Tank

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Grace Akhrem

Morro Tank

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Grace Akhrem

14 Boldly Go Argon Tee

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Monika Sirna

Helium Sweater

14

Mari Chiba

Krypton Hat

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Megan Werdmuller von Elgg

Xenon Mitts

19

Annie Watts

Radon Pullover

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Ramona Gaynor

24 Lace Amplified Stoxa Tank

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Bonnie Nurnberger

Bethel Tank

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Lexi Nelson

Kinross Tank

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Rimma Polikarpova

Indio Cowl

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Teresa Gregorio

Leven Shawl

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Jen Lucas

Austin Tee

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Jean Chung

Manchester Pullover

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Julia Farwell-Clay

38 Fading Light Lea Pullover

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Alison Green

Sunspot Tank

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Emma Welford

Bokeh Tank

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Amy Christoffers

Datura Kerchief

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Kristine Byrnes

Gambeson Tunic

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Moon Eldridge

Dowlas Tee

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Sachiko Burgin

Linum Tee Bristol Ivy

features

departments

10 Designer Profile:

2

Editor’s Note

4

Materials

Grace Akhrem Robin Shroyer

20 Summer Knitting Andi Satterlund

45

32 Grow Your Own Yarn

Neon Products Linen Yarns Lace Inspirations

96 Blogspotting: One Sheepish Girl

Caitlin ffrench

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Cover: Dowlas Tee, featured on page 45

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>>>>>>>>>>> editorial

Connect with the Knitscene team, as well as the other Interweave knitting titles, at knittingdaily.com and on Twitter (@AmyPalmerKnits).

I would like to confess: I am not a fan of summer. I am baffled by summer. I don’t like being hot; I don’t like being more than twenty feet away from air conditioning; I am not typically described as outdoorsy. I understand summer appeals to many people, and I can understand their arguments for summer, but give me cold, snowy days and the warm, cozy knits that come with them. That said, there are great delights to be found in summer. Summer music festivals, for instance, which provided constant inspiration through the evolution of the Lace Amplifed story (pages 24–31). Summer road trips, comprised of otherworldly landscapes and weary travelers pausing late in the night at motels with brightly lit neon signs, were the perfect backdrop for bold, neon-colored projects you’ll find on pages 14–19. Flourishing plants in fields and along roadsides bring to mind a frequently overlooked yarn fiber, so we gave it center stage on pages 38–45 in projects that make the most of the unique properties of linen and linen-blend yarns. Grace Akhrem, a native Los Angeleno and our featured designer, created a collection of lightweight and breezy pullovers—you’ll want to have them knit before summer weather hits your part of the world. I’m trying to find the silver lining, a happy place in the hot weather. If nothing else, summer knitting projects are typically lighter and make for excellent on-the-go knitting to keep in your lap, under the shade of a large tree. Happy Knitting,

interweave press

We must thank the Mishawaka Amphitheatre (www.themishawaka.com) for providing a most excellent setting and equally wonderful food, and the Miller Farm (www.millerfarms.net) for allowing us to traipse in their onion fields.

editorial

advertising

editorial director Karin Strom editor Amy Palmer managing editor Allison Mackin assistant editor Louisa Demmitt senior project editor Joni Coniglio project editor Holly Priestley project coordinator Kathy Mallo technical editors Kate Atherley, Jill Aurand, Tracey Davidson, Karen Frisa, Julie Gaddy, Larissa Gibson, Alexandra Virgiel copy editor Amanda Borowski proofreader Nancy Arndt

advertising manager Marcy Bradford mbradford@interweave.com media sales team leader Diane Kocal dkocal@interweave.com ad traffickers Melissa Marie Brown, Kathy Depperschmidt classified advertising Stephanie Griess marketing manager, ecommerce Annie Hartman Bakken

creative services senior designer Kit Kinseth senior production designer Dean Howes photography projects Nathan Rega, Harper Point Photography departments Louisa Demmitt photostyling Katie Himmelberg hair & makeup Kira Friedman, Janie Rocek illustrations Gayle Ford, Kit Kinseth

Interweave Founder, Creative Director Linda Ligon Vice President, Group Publisher Shahla Hebets Vice President, Content Helen Gregory Vice President, Media Sales Julie Macdonald Books Editorial Director Allison Korleski Design Manager Larissa Davis Senior Production Manager Nancy Pollock eCommerce Marketing Manager Evelyn Bridge Director, Magazine Marketing & Fulfillment Mark Fleetwood Online Circulation Specialist Jodi Smith

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Projects and information are for inspiration and personal use only. We’ve made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the contents of this publication. However, human errors do occur. If you have questions regarding a pattern in this issue, please visit us online at knitscene.com/corrections.asp. Knitscene does not recommend, approve, or endorse any of the advertisers, products, services, or views advertised in Knitscene. Nor does Knitscene evaluate the advertisers’ claims in any way. You should, therefore, use your own judgment in evaluating the advertisers, products, services, and views advertised in Knitscene.

and information are for inspiration and personal use only. Reproduction in whole or in part is prohibited, except by permission of the publisher. Subscription rate is $32/one year in the U.S., $36/one year in Canada, and $39/one year in international countries (surface delivery). U.S. funds only. Subscription services: KNCcustserv@CDSfulfillment.com, (800) 839-4544 U.S. and Canada, (760) 291-1531 international, P.O. Box 6338-1838, Harlan, IA, 51537. Postmaster: Please send address changes to: Interweave Press Knitscene, P.O. Box 6338-1838, Harlan, IA, 51537. Visit the Knitscene website at knitscene.com. For advertising information, call Marcy Bradford at (847) 780-4011 or email mbradford@interweave.com; Diane Kocal at (317) 482-0120 or email dkocal@interweave.com; or visit interweave.com. For retail sales of magazines and Interweave books, call (866) 949-1646 or email sales@interweave.com. For editorial inquiries, call (800) 272-2193, email knitscene@interweave.com, or write to 4868 Innovation Dr., Fort Collins, CO 80525-5576

Interweave Press Knitscene® (ISSN 2328-286X print and 2328-2940 online) is published quarterly by Interweave, a division of F+W Media Inc, 201 E. Fourth St., Loveland, CO 80537. (800) 272-2193. All contents of this issue of Knitscene are © 2014 by F+W Media Inc. All rights reserved. Projects

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Enjoy the entire family of Interweave Fiber Magazines Interweave Knits, Interweave Crochet, Knitscene, knit.wear, PieceWork, Handwoven, Spin.Off, Knitting Traditions

Visit us on the web • knittingdaily.com • interweave.com • fwmedia.com

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glossary <<<<<<

level of difficulty beginner: basi c sti tches easy: movi ng past scarves intermediate: pretty confi dent advanced: chal l enge mysel f

knitting gauge To check gauge, cast on thirty to forty stitches using recommended needle size. Work in pattern stitch until piece measures at least 4" from cast-on edge. Remove swatch from needles or bind off loosely and lay swatch on flat surface. Place a ruler over swatch and count number of stitches across and number of rows down (including fractions of stitches and rows) in 4". Repeat two or three times on different areas of swatch to confirm measurements. If you have more stitches and rows than called for in instructions, use larger needles; if you have fewer, use smaller needles. Repeat until gauge is correct.

reading charts

Unless otherwise indicated, read charts from the bottom up. On right-side rows, read charts from right to left. On wrong-side rows, read charts from left to right. When knitting in the round, read charts from right to left for all rounds.

learn it â&#x20AC;˘ abbreviations beg BO CO dec g inc k k1f&b kwise m mm p p1f&b pm psso p2sso pwise rem rep rev St st rnd(s) RS sl st(s) St st tbl tog WS yo * () []

beginning; begin; begins bind off cast on decrease(s); decreasing gram(s) increase(s); increasing knit knit into front and back knitwise marker(s) millimeter(s) purl purl into front and back place marker pass slipped stitch over pass two slipped stitches over purlwise remain(s); remaining repeat(s); repeating reverse stockinette stitch round(s) right side <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< slip stitch(es) Need More Help? stockinette stitch Visit knittingdaily through back loop .com/Glossary together for a complete wrong side yarnover glossary of stitches. repeat starting point (i.e., repeat from *) alternate measurements and/or instructions instructions that are to be worked as a group a specified number of times

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Oh, Neon!

>>>>>>>>>>> materials

The Oh Snap! Mesh Pouches from Namaste are perfect to hold all projects, from socks to sweaters and everything in between. The snaps are very secure, and the mesh makes it easy to see what is inside. Available in large and small sets. Shown here in Small, Hollywood Pink. www.namasteinc.com

Brighten up your knitting kit

These bright Tape Measure Bracelets from UndoneClothing on Etsy are a fun way to flaunt your crafty side. The bracelets are repurposed from colorful vinyl measuring tapes, and each closes securely with a silver-colored snap. These reversible bracelets come in many colors. www.undoneclothing.etsy.com

Each Leather Pouch from Arc of La is hand printed with hand-carved blocks and is “dyed and sewn in New York.” They are available in many sizes, prints, and styles and are ideal for everything from small notions to small projects. www.arcofla.com

These 100% cotton Canvas Bags from Knerd Shop sport phrases and images “for the humorous fiber enthusiast.” Available in a large variety of color combinations and prints, they also have an interior pocket to help keep you organized. www.knerdshop.com

The Spectra Trendz Interchangeable Circular Deluxe Set of acrylic knitting needles are festive and functional. Their bright colors and smooth finish make them fun to use, and the handy carrying case helps you make sure you keep track of all of them. www.knitterspride.com

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>>>>>>>>>> materials

Have a Bast!

Classic Elite Yarns Bella Lino

Habu Textiles XS-55

(58% linen, 26% viscose, 16% cotton; 164 yds [150 m]/50 g) shown in #8547 El Puerto. Long color repeats form stripes in this slightly slubby blend. www

(100% linen; 370 yds [331 m]/48 g) shown in #4 tea green. This two-ply laceweight yarn has the crisp texture that immediately identifies linen to the touch.

.classiceliteyarns.com

Bast fibers, derived from plant stalks, can be used in a variety of ways. We’ve gathered some of our top picks for linen-blend yarns; see pages 38–45 for more linen-blend yarns and projects.

Anzula Breeze (65% silk, 35% linen; 750 yds [685 m]/115 g) shown in daffodil. Silk and linen create a delightfully soft laceweight yarn. www.anzula.com

www.habutextiles.com

Juniper Moon Farm Zooey (60% cotton, 40% linen; 284 yds [260 m]/100 g), distributed by Knitting Fever, shown in #07. Spinning cotton and linen together creates a subtle heather effect in this yarn.

www.knittingfever.com

Americo Original Linen Cordón

Fibra Natura Good Earth

HiKoo Rylie (50% baby

(66% linen, 29% pima cotton, 5% silk; 634 yds [580 m]/100 g) shown in coral. Linen’s classic papery feel is softened with cotton and silk. www.americo.ca

(53% cotton, 47% linen; 204 yds [187 m]/100 g) distributed by Universal Yarn, shown in canyon. This worsted-weight yarn has tiny bits of shimmer.

alpaca, 25% mulberry silk, 25% linen; 274 yds [251 m]/100 g) distributed by Skacel, shown in #85 sea. A blend of alpaca, silk, and linen results in a yarn with incredible sheen and drape.

www.universalyarn.com

www.skacelknitting.com

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Summer14 Knitscene

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>>>>>>>>>> materials

We ❤ Lace! Summer is the best time to get out your needles and knit some lace! Picture yourself sitting on your deck in the evening with an iced tea and lace yarn on your needles. If it’s still chilly in your neck of the woods, get inspired with these resources for the time being. Start Knitting Lace! with Heather Zoppetti (www.interweavestore.com) This Interweave Knits workshop will help you with the basics of lace knitting. Here you will learn to understand how to read lace charts, work yarnovers, and comprehend openwork patterns, giving you a great foundation so you are ready to tackle any lace project that comes your way!

The Magic of Shetland Lace Knitting by Elizabeth Lovick (St. Martin’s Griffin, 2013) Not only does this book cover stitches and techniques in great depth, but it also gives a lovely history of Shetland lace knitting. With detailed illustrations and beautiful patterns, this is a must-have for anyone who loves the delicate beauty of fine lacework.

Stitch-Maps.com (www.stitch-maps.com) This site is full of beautiful stitch charts “freed from the constraints of a grid.” Here you can see the finished shape of your fabric and how different stitches and rows interact with one another. You can look through patterns on the site using keywords and descriptions, and you can also contribute patterns of your own.

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outstanding yarns • brilliant designs

Confidently read simple to complex charts and create successful knitted projects Knitting Charts: Follow the Symbols for Successful Knitting is your indispensible key. Join JC Briar on this 75-minute workshop to decipher and master knitting charts.

You’ll knit with confidence as you learn: • Why knitting charts resemble knitted fabric • How chart symbols get their shapes • When to follow the key and when to use your own knowledge • How a chart can prevent mistakes (or help you identify them) • What the mysterious “no stitch” symbol really means • How left-handed and unconventional knitters can use charts • And more!

This workshop is available at InterweaveStore.com

Wellington, knit in Bella Lino, one of nine new designs in Silhouettes, available at your LYS and online. www.classiceliteyarns.com Summer14 Knitscene

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Petaluma Tee Yarn Elsebeth Lavold Silky Wool, distributed by Knitting Fever Pattern page 46

GRACE AKHREM Robin Shroyer

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“In the beginning, I didn’t know how to bind off. I just took a tapestry needle and threaded it through the stitches, pulled it so it would be tight, tied it in a knot, and then cut it.” It was a tragic bind-off gone terribly wrong, but the only obvious technique to a teenage Grace Akhrem. “I knew there had to be a better way.” Switching from the tapestry needle technique, she tried to transfer the stitches to another needle and lift one over the other, but she knew it still wasn’t right. Three years and countless projects passed before she picked up Knitting for Dummies and learned the right method. But this was Grace’s way: a guess, trial and error, and the ever-lingering thought of, “There has to be a better way.” Grace, a Los Angeles native, first got the knitting bug when she was in college. She watched as one of her friends knitted—quickly growing a beautiful variegated scarf between her needles—and was instantly enamored. She hit the craft store in search of a yarn she could love as much as her friend’s, but with zero knitting knowledge, she had to lean on a once-learned crochet technique: chain-building. With her hook and yarn, she began making loops, over and over again. It was an approach that would inevitably mirror her future bind-off strategy. She eventually tackled double crochet, but longed for something more, something that would look like her friend’s scarf—the lumpy yarn, that braided look. So she turned to her grandmother, a combined continental knitter, who taught her to knit clockwise, the way of her Russian descent. It took Grace two days just to figure out how to work the knit stitch; it just didn’t make sense. But then something suddenly clicked. The stitches may have been twisted, but the stitches were forming, and the garter-stitch scarf she tackled as her first project was moving. Until she got to the bind-off. Her grandmother had moved away by the time she reached her last row, leaving Grace to her own devices. The bind-off was one thing, but her stitches were another. Curious and a little lost, she began making up stitch patterns, guessing as she went along. Many turned out to be legitimate; others not so much. She carried on anyway, improving with every piece and winging it as she went. Years of creating passed before Grace discovered patterns. She was visiting a local shop and admiring a scarf on the table, when she asked one of the employ-

Kaweah Tunic Yarn Anzula Sebastian Pattern page 47

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ees how to make it. She was astonished when the employee said the pattern could be purchased for $5. “It was the most ridiculous thing I had ever heard. A pattern? I didn’t know people did this for a living. Here I was just looking at pieces and knitting them.” Aware of the fact that she was different, Grace took a job in a Los Angeles knitting store and began writing and selling patterns for the shop—a scarf here, a hat there. She was having fun, but her career didn’t truly pick up until she moved to another shop and really threw herself into design. It was during her time there that she successfully sold her first pattern to yarn manufacturer Blue Sky Alpacas. And with that, her design work snowballed into a full-fledged designing career. Grace’s design process lends itself to an aesthetic that is body-conscious, wearable, and, above all, perennial. For the summer collection, Grace employed a theme of pleats and overlapping—structural elements that create feminine, yet architecturally interesting, pieces that are not only great for layering but also beautiful on their own. The Tuolumne Tank is a garment that will be flattering for every shape and size. The mattress-seamed front panel creates a vertically slimming line, while the intarsia pleat under the arm controls the shaping in this garment. The Kaweah Tunic was born out of Grace’s imagination in 2010, but was never fully executed until this issue. Grace’s use of short rows along the back created a coattails-inspired bottom edge that would look cute thrown over a bathing suit, tights, or even paired with a leather jacket. The Petaluma Tee is a lightweight raglan-sleeve tee with another intarsia pleat detail. The additional volume needed to use the pleat creates a natural flared sleeve that will keep your shoulders breezy on those hot summer nights. Finally, the Morro Tank was inspired by a Project Runway project gone wrong. This asymmetrical piece is knitted in four different panels and seamed together with a two-inch overlap. Decorative buttons add an element of surprise to make any head turn. Grace is now a one-woman show, creating her own knitting empire one creative whim at a time. She turns out designs to publish on Ravelry while knitting in standstill L.A. traffic. She teaches classes both locally and nationally while lamenting over the math needed to resize her patterns. And she attends trunk shows while tackling work-in-progress projects that are five (or more) years old as a nod to her ]resolution to clean up her stash. You could say she’s still winging it, but she’s really just looking for the “better way.” ❤ Robin Shroyer is a social-media strategist, living, writing, and knitting in Charlotte, North Carolina.

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â&#x2013;¼

Tuolumne Tank Yarn Louet Euroflax Sport Pattern page 50 Morro Tank Yarn Shibui Knits Staccato Pattern page 52

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Argon Tee Monika Sirna Two weights of yarn in similar colors are used in the stripe pattern of this tee. Worked in the round from the bottom up, a bright contrast color forms the shoulder seams and I-cord waistband. Yarn Manos del Uruguay Serena and Manos del Uruguay Lace, distributed by Fairmount Fibers Pattern page 54 â&#x2013;ź

Helium Sweater Mari Chiba Mariâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s love of polka dots inspired this nearly seamless sweater, worked back and forth from the bottom with one giant intarsia polka dot. Once the intarsia is finished, the lower body is joined in the round. Yarn Baah Yarn Sonoma Pattern page 55

BOLDLY GO Pair out-of-this-world knits with bright, bold colors

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BUY THE KIT

and make THIS PROJECT Interweavestore.com Krypton Hat Megan Werdmuller von Elgg The inspiration for this cabled hat came from the motion of bright saltwater taffy being pulled at a boardwalk taffy stand. Yarn Filatura Di Crosa Sportwool, distributed by Tahki-Stacy Charles Inc. Pattern page 58

BOLDLY GO Summer14 Knitscene

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BOLDLY GO 18

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â&#x2013;ź

Xenon Mitts Annie Watts These easy fingerless mitts can fit a range of sizes, with the ribbing just above the thumb. Clever shaping along the gusset adds interest. Yarn Sweet Georgia Yarns Superwash DK Pattern page 60 Radon Pullover Ramona Gaynor Slipped stitches in different colors create the bold diamonds on this seamless-yoke pullover, worked from the top down. Yarn Madelinetosh Tosh Sock Pattern page 62

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>>>>>>>>>> the scene

SUMMER KNITTING A Crafting Survival Guide Andi Satterlund

Photos by Andi Satterlund

When the weather starts to get warm, many knitters pack away their needles and wool for a few months. I used to be a seasonal knitter, and when it got too hot to knit comfortably, I knew it was time to dig out my sewing projects. But when I went off to college in Washington state, knitting took over my life, and after I came back to California for my summer break, the idea of not knitting all summer was unthinkable. Sticky needles and hot, itchy, heavy projects had made summer knitting a misery, but my overly optimistic self was convinced that there was a secret to comfortable summer knitting. I just hadnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t found it yet.

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I began to experiment, starting with the problem that frustrated me the most: sticky needles. I knew my sweaty hands were to blame, and at fi rst I began to wash my hands every hour. I felt a little ridiculous doing this, and it only helped my knitting ever so slightly. My needles still got sticky, so during a round of hand washing I decided to try washing the needles themselves. I was working with fi xed circulars, so it was an awkward process to try to keep my knitting dry. Desperation makes you do funny things. Washing my needles made a huge difference, and I fi nally had a moment of clarity when I realized that the cooling effect of washing my hands and needles was really what was improving my knitting experience. My metal needles were heat-

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While living in California, Andi perfected the art of keeping cool while knitting by making smaller projects such as a knitted belt (far left) and colorful hats to wear in the cooler months.

ing up in my hands and making them sweat. Once I understood, I immediately switched to bamboo needles and never had to go through the ridiculous needlewashing process again. Without giving it much thought, I still sat curled up on the couch with my knitting in my lap as I would when it was cold out. Needless to say, that was hot! Even a pile of cotton knitting in your lap is certain to warm you up, but I didn’t want to give up on the couch. I remembered seeing a beautiful photo in a pattern book of a woman leaning over the arm of a couch with her knitting draping down the side. It looked like it might be a great way to get my project off of me, and I had to try it. My fantasies were crushed when I discovered that, as much as I

fancied myself an elegant lady who could gracefully knit in that contorted position, it wasn’t even close to comfortable. I temporarily gave up on knitting sweaters in the summer and focused on knitting smaller accessories. Less yarn in the project meant less yarn to heat me up as I worked. But my desire to knit sweaters beat my desire to sit on the couch, and I admitted defeat and started knitting at my desk where my project couldn’t warm me up. I egotistically thought I had mastered summer knitting. When the next summer rolled around, I felt like I was ready for it, but I was not to be so lucky. Shortly after I came back to California from college, the air conditioner decided a week with temperatures in the triple digits was a good

time to die. I was undeterred; I had dealt with the heat before, and I was convinced that I’d be able overcome any weather. Having gone through all of the logical solutions that I could think of the summer before, I began to get a little wacky with my attempts to improve my summer knitting experience. On one sweltering day, I decided to implement ice-cream breaks. Despite being delicious and cooling, icecream breaks ate up too much knitting time and were not the most diet-friendly, and I ran into brain-freeze troubles more often than expected. Icy drinks proved themselves to be a better alternative. This whole time I had been avoiding the obvious solution for the heat. I was paranoid that a desk fan might suck up my yarn. Eventually it got hot enough that I was

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>>>>>>>>>> the scene

Lightweight cardigans such as Andi’s Miette Cardigan (pattern available at her website) are perfect for warmer weather.

willing to risk ruining a project. I switched it on and angled it at my hands, and oh, the difference it made! It was the missing piece of the puzzle. I felt like I was living dangerously with the fan, and a few bits of yarn did get destroyed, but it was worth it. I could finally knit comfortably for hours on

end in the summer and truly enjoy it. Knitting when it’s hot out isn’t always the most fun, but going all summer without knitting is even worse. I was willing to sacrifice a little dignity (and a little yarn) in order to figure out how to make summer knitting as enjoyable as pos-

TIPS FOR SUMMER KNITTING

sible, and now I can’t imagine ever going back to being a seasonal knitter. ❤ Andi Satterlund lives and knits in Seattle, where the weather is more conducive to knitting. Visit her online at www.untangling-knots.com.

2. Keep your hands cool. Whether it means switching to needles that don’t warm up, pointing a fan at your hands, or both, cool hands make for a happier knitting experience.

➊ 3. Get your knitting off of you. Work at a table or

1. Have a cold treat on hand. A chilly drink or a bowl of ice cream can make a world of difference if your knitting is getting too warm.

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desk if you’re working on larger projects or pick a small project that won’t warm you up as much.

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THE

KNITTER’S C O M PA N I O N

® 2 0 14 S p ud & C hl o ë

Deluxe Edition with DVD

Vicki Square ISBN: 978-1-59668-314-3 140 Pages, $24.95

EASY -toCARRY

new collection available at your LYS soon!

format

shop.KnittingDaily.com

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by Blue Sky Alpacas

n o . 9 8 1 9 O N E F I N E D AY T O P

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spudandchloe.com

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LACE

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Keep your cool in summertime crowds with large lace motifs. These knits go to eleven!

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Stoxa Tank Bonnie Nurnberger Easy lace on the front and reverse stockinette stitch on the back make for speedy knitting in this simple tank. Contrast-color edging along the hem and shoulders adds a little bit of extra flair. Yarn Spud & ChloĂŤ Fine, distributed by Blue Sky Alpacas Pattern page 66

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LACE

Bethel Tank Lexi Nelson The ideal tank for hot summer days, this lacy pullover is worked in the round to the armholes in an oversized umbrella lace pattern and a simple mesh pattern at the yoke. Yarn Rowan Summer Tweed, distributed by Westminster Fibers Pattern page 67 â&#x2013;ź

Kinross Tank Rimma Polikarpova Rope cables and eyelet lace wend their way up the body to the armholes of this breezy tunic. Flattering shaping is achieved by using different needle sizes. Yarn Berroco Linsey Pattern page 69

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LACE

Indio Cowl Teresa Gregorio From Teresa: “Knit in the round, this cowl seamlessly transitions from one lace pattern to another, transforming from a long, loose cowl to a flowing shrug. Wrap it twice around your neck for a closer fit, tie in a knot for a fashionable accessory, or wear it as a shoulder wrap.” Yarn Brown Sheep Company Nature Spun Sport Pattern page 71

Leven Shawl Jen Lucas Knit from the bottom up, this shawl starts with just a handful of stitches and follows an easy-to-work chart. A bright color in a luxurious yarn makes this an accessory to wear all summer long. Yarn Three Irish Girls Glenhaven Cashmerino Sock Pattern page 72

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Austin Tee Jean Chung A bold lace pattern in the body is worked in the round to the armholes. A wide boatneck creates a chic off-the-shoulder look. Yarn Cascade Yarns Ultra Pima Fine Pattern page 73 â&#x2013;ź

Manchester Pullover Julia Farwell-Clay I-cord ties worked into the sleeves of this wide-necked raglan pullover allow you to choose how much shoulder peeks through. This fantastic cover-up is worked from the bottom up in the round to the underarms. Yarn Valley Yarns Southwick, distributed by WEBS Pattern page 76

LACE

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>>>>>>>>>> the scene

Grow Your Own

Yarn Caitlin ffrench

Photo by Martin Borden

In the span of a year, I went from knowing almost nothing about linen to growing my own field of flax and processing it into linen yarn. I had never given much thought to how much energy goes into growing your own plant-based fiber, and I had only a vague idea of what I was getting into.

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some interesting objects that we pulled out of the plot that had been discarded there years beforeâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;a lot of glass and scrap iron, one intact wine bottle, and very old childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s toys. Next we sowed the seeds. After taking handfuls of seeds and peppering them around the garden as evenly as possible, I then lightly raked them into the soil and tamped it down. Some seeds remained on top, but this was supposed to happen. We then covered the garden with netting that sat about a foot off the ground to keep out any birds or animals that would eat the seeds. A few weeks later, when the plants were coming up and the seeds were out of danger, I removed the netting. Flax is a low-maintenance plant. The crop had to be watered every few days, but there was no other work until the

Photos this page by Arlin ffrench

I started the linen journey as a learning experience. I went to university for textiles (as well as fi ne arts) and have followed up my studies with new and very difficult projects. Growing my own linen struck a chord in my heart because I love the idea of taking back some, if not all, of the clothing production process, bringing the idea of DIY as far back as possible. As an added bonus, I teamed up with other individuals and groups in Vancouver, British Columbia, to create our flax farm, and through the process, I became closer to a group of fantastic fi ber artists. The fi rst step for growing flax is preparing your garden bed. In my plot I weeded out invasive plants that had established themselves over the winter. I went back a few more times to weed before sowing seeds. There were also

Caitlin grew her own little flax garden in a green space in Vancouver, British Columbia.

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Retted and dried flax is ready to be processed.

Caitlin uses the brake to loosen the plant from the fiber.

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Photos this page by Martin Borden

>>>>>>>>>> the scene

“barefoot weed”—the one time to give the garden one good weeding when the plants are between eight and ten inches tall. I was told that traditionally the weeding of a flax field was done by women and children as they were small and agile, and it was done barefoot so as not to crush the plants. Flax has a very short root system and can be easily knocked over or damaged. I am six feet tall, have never been described as agile, and was dealing with a garden plot that had a lot of broken glass found in it. I decided to weed with shoes on, being mindful of where I stepped. After the weeding and an unseasonably hot and sunny summer, the garden grew incredibly fast. Flax plants blossom with delicate blue flowers for a number of days just before they are ready to harvest. I had to wait until the base of the stalk started to yellow and the leaves began to turn yellow as well. Harvesting didn’t take long at all, as the root system is so shallow that the plants just pop out of the ground. The crop was hung in bundles in front of my house to dry for a few months. And with that, the easy part was over. The fi rst step to processing flax is retting, in which bunches of dried flax are placed in tubs of water and left to rot for a few days. Once the stalks were retted, they were hung up again to dry out. Once dry, I knocked the seed pods and leaves off the stalks with a ripple, a dangerous-looking spiked tool. Working in small batches, I applied the brake, a hinged tool that smashes the plant apart, to the flax. The brake strips off

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Celebrating 40 years as

#585 Viola Plaid Pillow in Valley Yarns Southwick

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SOFTGOODS DESIGNED FOR COMFORT IN VALLEY YARNS LONGMEAD OW, GOSHEN, SOUTHWICK , AND VALLEY SUPERWASH

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VISIT OUR STORE 75 SERVICE CENTER ROAD, NORTHAMPTON, MA

QUILT!KNIT! STITCH!

August 14-16, 2014

Oregon Convention Center in beautiful Portland, Oregon Thursday-Saturday 10 am-6 pm Admission: $10 adults/$8 seniors & students/$25 Full Show Pass. Children 10 & under free.

International Quilt Festival—the premier quilting and fabric art show announces a brand new show for a new audience… Features Include:

full slate of classes across a variety of fiber and needle art disciplines •AScores offering finished works of art and the raw materials to make them •Lecturesof vendors Style,” a daily fashion show •A “Community • “Street Garden” fabric and needle-art flowers •Make It University! — Fun,offast-paced mixed-media classes •Open Studios — Watch and interact with four artists creating new works at the same time •“Coming Up Roses” special exhibit of rose quilts • • Special nighttime “Scrappy Hour” event ™

Whatever type of fiber and needle arts you like to create, admire, or want to learn about, QUILT! KNIT! STITCH!™ will have it all! Join us for the debut show! Visit www.quilts.com for regularly updated details. FIND US ON FACEBOOK www.facebook.com/quiltfestival

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SEE US ON INSTAGRAM www.instagram.com/quiltfestival

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>>>>>>>>>> the scene Left: Caitlin uses the scutching knife to remove the remaining parts of the flax shell. Bottom left: Spinning the flax on a drop spindle. Bottom: A little bit of spun linen ready to be worked.

the outer part of the plant and reveals the fi ber. Next, a scutching knife scraped off the last parts of the outer shell of the plant, and fi nally, the hackles removed straw bits and combed the fi bers. Luckily, my group of flax enthusiasts included a very skilled woodworker who made all of our equipment. I’ve been spinning my flax on a drop spindle, and when that’s fi nished, I’m going to make a garment from my linen yarn. A twenty-by-twenty-foot plot grows enough linen to make a shirt if all of the steps are done correctly and the growing conditions are right, and my garden plot is roughly 300 square feet. The processing is slow-going and labor intensive—at the end of December, I had processed about ten percent of my crop into spun linen fi ber. This gives me plenty of time to decide what I’m going to make with my fi ber and to daydream about the next time I can grow my own yarn. ❤

Photos this page by Martin Borden

Caitlin ffrench is a fiber artist from Vancouver, British Columbia. Visit her online at www .wewilltellyouallofoursecrets.com.

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Lightweight yarns blended with linen are perfect for summer knitting.

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Lea Pullover Alison Green Alison says: “This simple pullover features an unusual stitch pattern using elongated, crossed stitches to create a sexy openwork element over the yoke and sleeves. The beautiful drape of the viscose/linen-blend yarn allows the sweater to follow your curves in spite of the boxy, oversized shape.” Yarn Classic Elite Yarns Firefly Pattern page 78 Sunspot Tank Emma Welford Cool racerback styling and intarsia details make this linen-blend tank stand out in a crowd. This top is worked in pieces to accommodate the intarsia method. Yarn Plymouth Yarn Company Linen Concerto Pattern page 79

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â&#x2013;ź

Bokeh Tank Amy Christoffers Holding a hazy mohair blend together with a linen yarn creates a soft focus around the lace at the hem and sides of this easy tank. Yarn Shibui Knits Linen and Shibui Knits Silk Cloud Pattern page 81 Datura Kerchief Kristine Byrnes An easy eyelet pattern forms the body of this kerchief, perfect for keeping your head cool in summer. Yarn FibraNatura Flax, distributed by Universal Yarn Pattern page 83

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Gambeson Tunic Moon Eldridge Aiming for a simple, comfortable garment, Moon created this hip-length tunic with short-rows to add knitting interest. Yarn Hand Maiden Lino, distributed by Fleece Artist Pattern page 83

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â&#x2013;ź

Dowlas Tee Sachiko Burgin A small pop of color at the pocket and shoulder seams makes for a chic, simple tee. The all-linen yarn keeps the fabric light and breezy. Yarn Claudia Hand Painted Yarns Linen Pattern page 85 Linum Tee Bristol Ivy Taking inspiration from Fishermanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Rib stitch, traditionally associated with winter sweaters, Bristol reimagines the summer tee with a cushy stitch pattern worked in crisp linen. An asymmetrical pattern in the neckline adds to the allure. Yarn Quince and Co Sparrow Pattern page 88

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Back

Gr a c e A k hr e m page 10

✿ ✿

Petaluma Tee

❤✿

✿ ❤❤

E l s e b e t h L av o l d S i l k y Wo o l

Sizes 44 (46, 53½, 58½, 63½)" bust circumference; shown in size 44" Yarn Elsebeth Lavold Silky Wool (45% wool, 35% silk, 20% nylon; 191 yd [175 m]/50 g): • #116 Prussian blue (MC), 5 (5, 6, 7, 8) skeins • #60 granite (CC), 1 (1, 1, 2, 2) skein(s) Yarn distributed by Knitting Fever Gauge 22 sts and 30 rows = 4" in St st Tools • Size 5 (3.75 mm) needles • One double-pointed needle (dpn) in same size or smaller • Markers (m) • Removable markers • Tapestry needle

6 (6¼, 7, 8¼, 8½ )" 3¾ (4¼, 5, 6, 7)"

Designer ❤ ❤✿

With MC, CO 53 (56, 65, 71, 77) sts, place marker (pm), with CC, CO 15 (15, 17, 19, 21) sts, pm, with 2nd ball of MC, CO 53 (56, 65, 71, 77) sts—121 (127, 147, 161, 175) sts total. Row 1 (RS) With MC, knit to 1 st before m, p1, sl m, with CC (see Notes), p1, knit to 1 st before m, p1, sl m, with MC, p1, knit to end. Row 2 With MC, purl to 1 st before m, k1, sl m, with CC, k1, purl to 1 st before m, k1, sl m, with MC, k1, purl to end. Rep last 2 rows until piece measures 16¼ (16½, 16¾, 17, 17¼)" from CO, ending with a WS row. Shape raglan: Note: Neck shaping beg before raglan shaping ends; read the foll section all the way through before proceeding. Cont in patt, BO 5 (5, 6, 7, 7) sts at beg of next 2 rows—111 (117, 135, 147, 161) sts rem. Dec row (RS) K2, ssk, work to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2—2 sts dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 23 (24, 28, 31, 33) more times, then work 1 (1½, 1½, 1¾, 2½)" even. At the same time, when raglan measures 5 (5¼, 5¾, 6, 6¼)", shape neck as foll: Break CC and 2nd ball of MC; cont with first ball of MC only. Pleat row (RS) Removing m as you come to them, work to 7 (7, 8, 9, 10) sts before m, sl 7 (7, 8, 9, 10) MC sts onto dpn and hold in front of foll 7 (7, 8, 9, 10) CC sts, [knit 1 st from dpn tog with 1 st from left needle] 7 (7, 8, 9, 10) times, k1, sl next 7 (7, 8, 9, 10) CC sts onto dpn and hold in back of foll 7 (7, 8, 9, 10) MC sts, [knit 1 st from left needle tog with 1 st from dpn] 7 (7, 8, 9, 10) times, work to end. Next row (WS) Purl. Mark center 21 (23, 25, 29, 31) sts. Next row (RS) Work to marked sts, join 2nd ball of yarn and BO 21 (23, 25, 29, 31) sts, work to end. Working both sides separately at the same time, dec 1 st at each neck edge every RS row 6 (6, 7, 8, 8) times—8 (9, 11, 10, 13) sts rem when

1½ (1¾, 2, 1¾, 2¼)" 7½ (8¼, 9¼, 10½, 11¾)"

❤ ❤✿

16¼ (16½, 16¾, 17, 17¼)"

✿ ❤ ❤

front & back

22 (23, 26¾, 29¼, 31¾)" 2¼ (3, 3, 3½, 5¼)"

6¾ (7, 8¼, 9, 9½ )"

sleeve

½ (½, ¾, ¾, 1)" 14¾ (16¼, 18, 20¼, 23)"

all raglan and neck shaping is complete. With RS facing, BO all sts.

Front

Work as for back, except beg neck shaping when raglan measures 3¾ (4, 4¼, 4½, 4¾)".

Sleeves

With MC, CO 35 (38, 43, 48, 55) sts, pm, with CC, CO 11 (13, 13, 15, 17) sts, pm, with 2nd ball of MC, CO 35 (38, 43, 48, 55) sts— 81 (89, 99, 111, 127) sts total. Row 1 (RS) With MC, knit to 1 st before m, p1, sl m, with CC, p1, knit to 1 st before m, p1, sl m, with MC, p1, knit to end. Row 2 With MC, purl to 1 st before m, k1, sl m, with CC, k1, purl to 1 st before m, k1, sl m, with MC, k1, purl to end. Rep last 2 rows until piece measures ½ (½, ¾,

See knittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know.

Notes The body of this top is worked in two pieces from the bottom up. The sleeves are worked flat separately. The armholes have raglan shaping. Colorwork is worked using the intarsia method. Join a new strand of yarn for each block of color, and twist yarns at each color change to avoid holes.

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Tools • Size 4 (3.5 mm): 29" circular (cir) needle • Size 3 (3.25 mm): 16" cir needle and set of double-pointed needles (dpn) • Markers (m) • Removable markers • Stitch holders • Tapestry needle • Two lengths of smooth fingering-weight waste yarn in a contrasting color

See knittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know.

Notes This tunic is worked from the bottom up. It is worked flat and shaped with shortrows at the lower edge, then joined and worked in the round to the underarm. The front and back are worked flat back and forth to the shoulders.

F inishing

Weave in ends. Steam block all pieces to measurements. Sew shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams. Lightly block again. ❤

S2kp2: Sl 2 sts as if to k2tog, k1, pass 2 sl sts over—2 sts dec’d.

Body

Stitches

❤ ❤✿

❤ ❤

row in established rib patt; work all other sts in St st. Short-row 1 (RS) Work 7 sts in patt, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 2 (WS) Work in patt to end. Short-row 3 Work to wrapped st, work wrap tog with wrapped st, work 3 sts, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 4 Work to end. Rep last 2 short-rows 13 (14, 15, 16, 17) more times. Short-row 5 (RS) Work to wrapped st, work wrap tog with wrapped st, work 4 sts, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 6 Work to end. Rep last 2 short-rows 5 (6, 7, 8, 9) more times. Short-row 7 (RS) Work to wrapped st, work wrap tog with wrapped st, work 9 (10, 11, 12, 13) sts, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 8 Work to end. Short-row 9 Work to end, working rem wrap tog with wrapped st. Short-row 10 (WS) Work 7 sts in patt, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 11 (RS) Work in patt to end. Short-row 12 Work to wrapped st, work wrap tog with wrapped st, work 3 sts, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 13 Work to end. Rep last 2 short-rows 13 (14, 15, 16, 17) more times. Short-row 14 (WS) Work to wrapped st, work wrap tog with wrapped st, work 4 sts, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 15 Work to end. Rep last 2 short-rows 5 (6, 7, 8, 9) more times.

larger needle

With larger cir needle, CO 233 (253, 273, 293, 313) sts. Do not join. Row 1 (RS) Sl 1 kwise wyb, *k1, p4; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2. Row 2 Sl 1 pwise wyf, p1, *k4, p1; rep from * to last st, k1. Rep last 2 rows until piece measures 1 (1, 1¼, 1½, 1½)" from CO, ending with a WS row. Shape back hem using short-rows as foll: Note: Keep first and last 6 sts of each

Designer

Gauge 21 sts and 30 rnds = 4" in St st on

¾, 1)" from CO, ending with a WS row. Shape raglan: BO 5 (5, 6, 7, 7) sts at beg of next 2 rows—71 (79, 87, 97, 113) sts rem. Dec row (RS) K2, ssk, work to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2—2 sts dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 23 (24, 28, 31, 33) more times—23 (29, 29, 33, 45) sts rem: 6 (8, 8, 9, 14) MC sts each side, 11 (13, 13, 15, 17) CC sts. Work 1 WS row. Break CC and 2nd ball of MC; cont with first ball of MC only. Pleat row (RS) Removing m as you come to them, k1 (2, 2, 2, 6), sl 5 (6, 6, 7, 8) MC sts onto dpn and hold in front of foll 5 (6, 6, 7, 8) CC sts, [knit 1 st from dpn tog with 1 st from left needle] 5 (6, 6, 7, 8) times, k1, sl next 5 (6, 6, 7, 8) CC sts onto dpn and hold in back of foll 5 (6, 6, 7, 8) MC sts, [knit 1 st from left needle tog with 1 st from dpn] 5 (6, 6, 7, 8) times, k1 (2, 2, 2, 6)—13 (17, 17, 19, 29) sts rem. BO all sts pwise.

6½ (6¾, 8½, 8½, 8¾)" 1¾ (2, 2, 2½, 2½ )"

❤ ❤✿

Gr a c e A k hr e m p a g e 11

✿ ❤

7 (7½, 8, 8½, 9)"

10 (10¾, 11½, 12, 12½ )"

Kaweah Tunic

❤✿

28½ (32½, 37, 40¾, 45¼)"

body 22 (22½, 22½, 22¾, 22¾)"

41½ (44½, 48½, 52¼, 55¼)"

Anzula Sebastian

Sizes 28½ (32½, 37, 40¾, 45¼)" bust circumference; shown in size 28½"

6 (6½, 7, 7½, 8¼)"

Yarn Anzula Sebastian (70% superwash merino, 30% seacell; 395 yd [361 m]/115 g): • clay, 4 (4, 5, 5, 5) skeins

43 (46¾, 50¾, 54½, 58¼)" Summer14 Knitscene

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Designer

Short-row 16 (WS) Work to wrapped st, work wrap tog with wrapped st, work 9 (10, 11, 12, 13) sts, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 17 Work to end. Short-row 18 Work to end, working rem wrap tog with wrapped st. Joining row (RS) Work to last 7 sts, sl last 7 sts onto dpn and hold in front of first 7 sts, [knit 1 st from dpn tog with 1 st from left needle] 3 times, knit 1 st from dpn tog with 1 st from left needle and mark this st with removable m for beg of rnd, [knit 1 st from dpn tog with 1 st from left needle] 3 times—226 (246, 266, 286, 306) sts rem. Working all sts in St st, work 16 (16, 14, 9, 7) rnds even. Shape center back: Dec rnd Knit to 1 st before marked st, s2kp2 (see Stitches)—2 sts dec’d. Rep Dec rnd every 17 (11, 11, 11, 8)th rnd 3 (5, 5, 5, 7) more times—218 (234, 254, 274, 290) sts rem. Remove m and place it before marked st for beg of rnd. Knit 1 rnd. Place pockets: Next rnd K42 (46, 50, 55, 58), *with waste yarn, k25 (25, 27, 27, 29), sl 25 (25, 27, 27, 29) waste yarn sts from right needle to left needle, with working yarn, k25 (25, 27, 27, 29), placing a removable m on center st of pocket*, k84 (92, 100, 110, 116), rep from * to *, with working yarn, knit to end. Work in St st until piece measures 3" from waste yarn. Shape waist: Dec rnd *Knit to 1 st before marked pocket st, s2kp2; rep from * once more, knit to end—4 sts dec’d. Rep Dec rnd every 8th rnd 3 (3, 3, 4, 5) more times, then every 4th rnd 6 (7, 8, 7, 7) times, then every other rnd 7 (5, 3, 3, 0) times—150 (170, 194, 214, 238) sts rem. Knit 1 rnd. Divide for front and back: Next rnd *Knit to 4 (4, 5, 6, 6) sts before marked pocket st, BO 9 (9, 11, 13, 13) sts, removing m; rep from * once more, knit to end—66 (76, 86, 94, 106) sts rem each for front and back. Place front sts on holder.

Back

Work back and forth in rows. Knit to end of RS row. Purl 1 WS row. Shape armholes: Dec row (RS) K2, ssk, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2—2 sts dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 3 (3, 4, 6, 13) more times, then every 4th row 3 (5, 5, 5, 3) times—52 (58, 66, 70, 72) sts rem. Work even until armhole measures 8 (8½, 9¼, 9½, 10)", ending with a WS row. Shape neck: Next row (RS) K16 (18, 20, 22, 22) sts, BO 20 (22, 26, 26, 28) sts, work to end—16 (18, 20, 22, 22) sts rem each side. Place right back sts on holder. Left back: Work 1 WS row. Next row (RS) BO 4 (4, 5, 5, 5) sts, work to end—12 (14, 15, 17, 17) sts rem. Work 1 WS row. Dec row (RS) K2, ssk, knit to end—1 st dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 2 (2, 3, 3, 3) more times—9 (11, 11, 13, 13) sts rem. Work even

48

until armhole measures 10 (10¾, 11½, 12, 12½)", ending with a WS row. BO all sts. Right back: With WS facing, return 16 (18, 20, 22, 22) right back sts to needle and rejoin yarn. Next row (WS) BO 4 (4, 5, 5, 5) sts, work to end—12 (14, 15, 17, 17) sts rem. Dec row (RS) Knit to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2—1 st dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 2 (2, 3, 3, 3) more times—9 (11, 11, 13, 13) sts rem. Work even until armhole measures 10 (10¾, 11½, 12, 12½)", ending with a WS row. BO all sts.

Front

With WS facing, return 66 (76, 86, 94, 106) held front sts to needle and rejoin yarn. Work 1 WS row. Shape armholes: Note: Neck shaping beg before armhole shaping ends; read the foll section all the way through before proceeding. Dec row (RS) K2, ssk, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2—2 sts dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 3 (3, 4, 6, 13) more times, then every 4th row 3 (5, 5, 5, 3) times. At the same time, when armhole measures 3 (3¼, 3½, 3½, 3½)", shape neck as foll: Mark center 10 (10, 12, 12, 14) sts. Next row (RS) Work to marked sts, join 2nd ball of yarn and BO 10 (10, 12, 12, 14) sts,

work to end. Working both sides separately, at each neck edge BO 3 sts 3 (3, 4, 4, 4) times, then dec 1 st at each neck edge every 4th row 3 (4, 4, 4, 4) times—9 (11, 11, 13, 13) sts rem when all armhole and neck shaping is complete. Work even until armhole measures 10 (10¾, 11½, 12, 12½)", ending with a WS row. BO all sts.

F inishing

Sew shoulder seams. Pockets: Remove waste yarn and place 25 (25, 27, 27, 29) sts above opening and 25 (25, 27, 27, 29) sts below opening onto smaller dpn. Pm and join in the rnd. Work in St st until piece measures 6 (6, 6¼, 6½, 6½)". With WS tog, join sts using three-needle BO. Neck edging: With RS facing and smaller cir needle, pick up and knit 130 (140, 155, 160, 170) sts around neck edge. Pm and join in the rnd. Work in p4, k1 rib for 1 (1, 1¼, 1½, 1½)". BO all sts in patt. Armhole edging: With RS facing and smaller cir needle, pick up and knit 105 (110, 120, 125, 130) sts around armhole edge. Pm and join in the rnd. Work in p4, k1 rib for 1 (1, 1¼, 1½, 1½)". BO all sts in patt. Weave in ends. Block to measurements. ❤

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2Go

Essential interchangeable needles in hand-sewn designer cottons • US made and guaranteed •

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Cirrus Cowl in Mimi Mink Summer14 Knitscene

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❤ ❤✿ ✿

❤ ❤

Designer ❤ ❤✿

Gr a c e A k hr e m page 12

✿ ✿

Tuolumne Tank

❤✿

✿ ❤❤

L o ue t E u ro f l a x S p o r t

Sizes 36 (39½, 43½, 47, 51)" bust circumference; shown in size 36" Yarn Louet Euroflax Sport (100% wet spun linen; 270 yd [247 m]/100 g): • #2364 natural (MC), 3 (3, 3, 3, 4) skeins • #2654 goldenrod (CC), 1 skein Gauge 17 sts and 24 rows = 4" in St st Tools • Size 7 (4.5 mm) needles • One double-pointed needle (dpn) in same size or smaller • Markers (m) • Stitch holder • Tapestry needle

48) sts, pm, with 2nd ball of MC, CO 40 (44, 48, 52, 56) sts—104 (122, 136, 148, 160) sts total. Row 1 (RS) With MC, knit to 1 st before m, p1, sl m, with CC (see Notes), p1, knit to 1 st before m, p1, sl m, with MC, p1, knit to end. Row 2 (WS) With MC, purl to 1 st before m, k1, sl m, with CC, k1, purl to 1 st before m, k1, sl m, with MC, k1, purl to end. Rep last 2 rows 9 (4, 3, 3, 2) more times. Dec row (RS) With MC, knit to 1 st before m, p1, sl m, with CC, p1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before m, k2tog, p1, sl m, with MC, p1, knit to end—2 sts dec’d. Rep Dec row every 20 (10, 8, 6, 6)th row 4 (9, 12, 13, 15) more times—94 (102, 110, 120, 128) sts rem: 40 (44, 48, 52, 56) MC sts each side, 14 (14, 14, 16, 16) CC sts. Work even until piece measures 17 (17, 17¾, 17¾, 17¾)" from CO, ending with a WS row. Break CC and 2nd ball of MC; cont with first ball of MC only. Pleat row (RS) Removing m as you come to them, knit to 7 (7, 7, 8, 8) sts before m, sl next 7 (7, 7, 8, 8) MC sts onto dpn and hold in front of foll 7 (7, 7, 8, 8) CC sts, [knit 1 st from dpn tog with 1 st from left needle] 7 (7, 7, 8, 8) times, sl next 7 (7, 7, 8, 8) CC sts onto dpn and hold in back of foll 7 (7, 7, 8, 8) MC sts, [knit 1 st from left needle tog with 1 st from dpn] 7 (7, 7, 8, 8) times, knit to end—80 (88, 96, 104, 112) sts rem. Purl 1 WS row. Shape armhole: Next row (RS) Work 36 (40, 43, 47, 51) sts for front, BO 8 (8, 10, 10, 10) sts, work to end—36 (40, 43, 47, 51) sts rem for each of front and back. Place front sts on holder. Back: Work 1 WS row. Dec row (RS) K2, ssk, knit to end—1 st dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 2 (3, 3, 3, 3) more times, then every 4th row 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) times—30 (33, 36, 39, 43) sts rem. Work even until armhole measures 6¾ (7, 7¼, 8, 8¼)", ending with a RS row. Shape neck: Next row (WS) BO 18 (21, 21, 24, 25) sts, work to end—12 (12, 15, 15, 18) sts rem. Dec

See knittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know.

row (RS) Knit to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2—1 st dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 2 (2, 3, 3, 4) more times—9 (9, 11, 11, 13) sts rem. Work even until armhole measures 8¾ (9, 9½, 10¼, 10¾)", ending with a WS row. BO all sts. Front: With WS facing, rejoin MC to 36 (40, 43, 47, 51) front sts. Work 1 WS row. Note: Neck shaping beg before armhole shaping ends; read the foll section all the way through before proceeding. Dec row (RS) Knit to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2—1 st dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 2 (3, 3, 3, 3) more times, then every 4th row 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) times. At the same time, when armhole measures 3¼ (3½, 3½, 3¾, 4)", shape neck as foll: Next row (RS) BO 10 (13, 13, 15, 17) sts, work to end. Work 1 WS row. Dec row (RS) K2, ssk, work to end—1 st dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 7 (7, 8, 9, 9) more times, then every 4th row 3 times—9 (9, 11, 11, 13) sts rem when all armhole and neck shaping is complete. Work even until armhole measures 8¾ (9, 9½, 10¼, 10¾)", ending with a WS row. BO all sts.

Left Side

Work as for right side to armhole shaping. Shape armhole: Next row (RS) Work 36 (40, 43, 47, 51) sts for back, BO 8 (8, 10, 10, 10) sts, work to end—36 (40, 43, 47, 51) sts rem for each of front and back. Place back sts on holder. Front: Work 1 WS row. Note: Neck shaping beg before armhole shaping ends; read the foll section all the way through before proceeding. Dec row (RS) K2, ssk, knit to end—1 st dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 2 (3, 3, 3, 3) more times, then every 4th row 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) times. At the same time, when armhole measures 3¼ (3½, 3½, 3¾, 4)", shape neck as foll: Next row (WS) BO 10 (13, 13, 15, 17) sts, work to end. Dec row (RS) Work to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2—1 st dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 7 (7, 8, 9, 9) more times, then every 4th row 3 times—9 (9, 11,

5 (5¾, 6, 6½, 7)" 2 (2, 2½, 2½, 3)"

Notes This top is worked in two pieces. The right side piece includes the right front, right armhole, and right back. The left side piece includes the left back, left armhole, and left front. Colorwork is worked using the intarsia method. Join a new strand of yarn for each block of color, and twist yarns at each color change to avoid holes.

5½ (5½, 6, 6½, 6¾)"

8¾ (9, 9½, 10¼, 10¾)"

18¾ (20¾, 22½, 24½, 26¼)"

17¼ (17¼, 18, 18, 18)"

right side

Right Side

With MC, CO 40 (44, 48, 52, 56) sts, place marker (pm), with CC, CO 24 (34, 40, 44,

50

24½ (28¾, 32, 34¾, 37¾)"

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by

KK KRISTIN OMDAHL

www.StyledByKristin.com www.Styled www.Style yledByKristin.com

Wrap your delicates in the natural romance of jasmine.

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visit us at www.knittingfever.com for hundreds of free patterns available for download now! join our community of nearly 150,000 knitters & crocheters on facebook Cortland fingerless mitts made with Juniper Moon Farmâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Findley yarn

Summer14 Knitscene

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See knittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know.

Notes This top is worked in four pieces from the bottom up.

Right Front

With A, CO 55 (60, 65, 70, 75) sts. Work in St st until piece measures 20 (20¼, 20½, 20¾, 21)" from CO, ending with a RS row.

3½ (3¾, 4¼, 4¾, 5)"

• Size 7 (4.5 mm) needles • Tapestry needle • Six ¾" buttons

2½ (2¾, 3, 3¼, 3¼)"

17 (17¼, 17½, 17¾, 18)"

Tools

4½ (5¼, 5¼, 6, 6¾)" 9 (9½, 10, 10½, 11½ )"

Designer

• #2022 mineral (A), 3 (3, 4, 4, 4) skeins • #2024 lime (B), 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) skeins Gauge 21 sts and 25 rows = 4" in St st

11, 13) sts rem when all armhole and neck shaping is complete. Work even until armhole measures 8¾ (9, 9½, 10¼, 10¾)", ending with a WS row. BO all sts. Back: With WS facing, rejoin MC to 36 (40, 43, 47, 51) back sts. Work 1 WS row. Dec row (RS) Knit to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2—1 st dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 2 (3, 3, 3, 3) more times, then every 4th row 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) times—30 (33, 36, 39, 43) sts rem. Work even until armhole measures 6¾ (7, 7¼, 8, 8¼)", ending with a WS row. Shape neck: Next row (RS) BO 18 (21, 21, 24, 25) sts, work to end—12 (12, 15, 15, 18) sts rem. Work 1 WS row. Dec row (RS) K2, ssk, knit to end—1 st dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 2 (2, 3, 3, 4) more times—9 (9, 11, 11, 13) sts rem. Work even until armhole measures 8¾ (9, 9½, 10¼, 10¾)", ending with a WS row. BO all sts.

right front & right back

3" 10½ (11½, 12½, 13¼, 14¼)"

F inishing

Sew shoulder seams. Sew front and back seams so that 2 selvedge sts on each piece show on RS. Weave in ends. Block to measurements. ❤

❤ ❤✿ ✿

❤ ❤✿

Gr a c e A k hr e m page 13

✿ ✿

Morro Tank

❤✿

✿ ❤❤

❤ ❤

Shibui Knits Staccato

Sizes 36 (40, 44, 47, 51)" bust circumference; shown in size 36"

Yarn Shibui Knits Staccato (70% superwash merino wool, 30% silk; 191 yd [175 m]/50 g):

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Left Front

With B, CO 55 (60, 65, 70, 75) sts. Work in St st until piece measures 17 (17¼, 17½, 17¾, 18)" from CO, ending with a WS row. Shape armhole: Note: Neck shaping beg before armhole shaping ends; read the foll section all the way through before proceeding. Next row (RS) BO 4 (4, 5, 5,

5) sts, work to end—51 (56, 60, 65, 70) sts rem. Work 1 WS row. Dec row (RS) K2, ssk, work to end—1 st dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 8 (8, 9, 9, 10) more times, then every 4th row 5 (6, 6, 7, 7) times. At the same time, when armhole measures 5½ (5¾, 5¾, 5¾, 6½)", shape neck as foll: Next row (WS) BO 21 (23, 24, 26, 30) sts, work to end. Dec row (RS) Work to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2—1 st dec’d. Rep Dec row every 4th row 2 (3, 3, 4, 4) more times—13 (14, 16, 17, 17) sts rem when all armhole and neck shaping is complete. Work even until armhole measures 9 (9½, 10, 10½, 11½)", ending with a WS row. BO all sts.

Right Back

Work as for left front, omitting neck shaping, until armhole measures 6½ (6¾, 7, 7¼, 8)", ending with a RS row (armhole shaping may not be complete). Shape neck: Next row (WS) BO 23 (25, 26, 28, 32) sts, work to end. Dec row (RS) Work to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2—1 st dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 0 (1, 1, 2, 2) more time(s)—13 (14, 16, 17, 17) sts rem when all armhole and neck shaping is complete. Work even until armhole measures 9 (9½,

10, 10½, 11½)", ending with a WS row. BO all sts.

Left Back

Work as for right front, omitting neck shaping, until armhole measures 6½ (6¾, 7, 7¼, 8)", ending with a WS row (armhole shaping may not be complete). Shape neck: Next row (RS) BO 23 (25, 26, 28, 32) sts, work to end. Work 1 WS row. Dec row (RS) K2, ssk, work to end—1 st dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 0 (1, 1, 2, 2) more time(s)—13 (14, 16, 17, 17) sts rem when all armhole and neck shaping is complete. Work even until armhole measures 9 (9½, 10, 10½, 11½)", ending with a WS row. BO all sts.

F inishing

Weave in ends. Lightly block pieces to measurements. Sew shoulder seams. Sew side seams. Lap one front piece (whichever you prefer) over the other by 3" at center front and sew in place. Overlap back pieces as for fronts and sew in place. Sew 3 buttons to front overlap along neck edge, evenly spaced. Sew 3 buttons to back at end of overlap, placing 1 at neck edge, another 2½" below, and 3rd evenly spaced between. ❤

Summer14 Knitscene

046_053_KSsmmr14.indd 53

Designer

Shape armhole: Note: Neck shaping beg before armhole shaping ends; read the foll section all the way through before proceeding. Next row (WS) BO 4 (4, 5, 5, 5) sts, work to end—51 (56, 60, 65, 70) sts rem. Dec row (RS) Work to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2—1 st dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 8 (8, 9, 9, 10) more times, then every 4th row 5 (6, 6, 7, 7) times. At the same time, when armhole measures 5½ (5¾, 5¾, 5¾, 6½)", shape neck as foll: Next row (RS) BO 21 (23, 24, 26, 30) sts, work to end. Work 1 WS row. Dec row (RS) K2, ssk, work to end—1 st dec’d. Rep Dec row every 4th row 2 (3, 3, 4, 4) more times—13 (14, 16, 17, 17) sts rem when all armhole and neck shaping is complete. Work even until armhole measures 9 (9½, 10, 10½, 11½)", ending with a WS row. BO all sts.

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arm, then the front and back are worked separately back and forth. When working the stripe pattern, do not cut yarns at color changes; carry yarns loosely up the wrong side of the work. The fabric will grow  significantly with blocking. Make sure to block gauge swatch before measuring.

Boldly Go

Stitches

10½ (10¾, 10¾, 11¼, 11½, 11¾)" 4½ (5, 5½, 6¼, 6¾, 7¾)"

13"

Twisted Rib: (even number of sts) Rnd 1 *K1tbl, p1; rep from * to end. Rep Rnd 1 for patt. Stripe Pattern: Rnds 1 and 2 With B, knit. Rnds 3 and 4 With MC, knit. Rep Rnds 1–4 for patt.

❤ ❤✿

M o n ik a Sir n a

p a g e 14

✿ ❤

Argon Tee

❤✿

M a no s de l U r ug u ay S e re n a

M a no s de l U r ug u ay L ac e

Sizes 37½ (39¾, 42½, 46¾, 50, 54)" bust circumference; shown in size 37½"

Body

With smaller cir needle and MC, CO 210 (224, 238, 266, 280, 308) sts. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Work in twisted rib (see Stitches) until piece measures 2¾" from CO. Eyelet rnd *[K1tbl, p1] 2 times, k1tbl, yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo; rep from * to end. Next rnd *[K8 (10, 8, 10, 8, 11), M1] 1 (1, 1, 10, 1, 8) time(s), [k9 (9, 9, 11, 9, 10), M1] 3 (2, 1, 3, 3, 22) time(s); rep from * 5 (7, 13, 1, 7, 0) more time(s)—234 (248, 266, 292, 312, 338) sts. Change to larger needle. Knit 1 rnd. Work Rnds 1–4 of stripe patt (see Stitches) 22 times, then work Rnds 1 and 2 once more. Cont in stripe patt as established, work as foll: Next rnd K115 (122, 130,

body

37½ (39¾, 42½, 46¾, 50, 54)"

❤ ❤✿

7 (7, 7½, 7½, 8, 8½ )"

❤ ❤

141, 150, 161) sts for back, pm for side, k119 (126, 136, 151, 162, 177) sts for front. Shape sleeves: Inc rnd *K1, M1, knit to 1 st before m, M1, k1, sl m; rep from * once more— 4 sts inc’d. Rep Inc rnd every other rnd 3 more times, ending with a B rnd—250 (264, 282, 308, 328, 354) sts: 123 (130, 138, 149, 158, 169) back sts and 127 (134, 144, 159, 170, 185) front sts. Divide for front and back: Place 123 (130, 138, 149, 158, 169) back sts on holder, removing m—127 (134, 144, 159, 170, 185) sts rem for front.

Front

Beg with MC and a WS row, work stripe patt back and forth for 48 (48, 52, 52, 56, 60) rows, ending with a RS row and a B row. Break B. Shape neck: Next row (WS) With MC, p32 (34, 38, 42, 46, 51), place next 63 (66, 68, 75, 78, 83) sts on holder for neck,

Yarn Manos del Uruguay Serena (60% baby alpaca, 40% pima cotton; 170 yd [150 m]/ 50 g): • #S2621 boysenberry (plum; MC), 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4) skeins • #S2044 lemonade (yellow; A), 1 skein Manos del Uruguay Lace (70% baby alpaca, 25% silk, 5% cashmere; 439 yd [400 m]/50 g): • #L2650 prilla (purple; B), 1 (1, 2, 2, 2, 2) skein(s) Yarn distributed by Fairmount Fibers Gauge 25 sts and 31 rows = 4" in St st on larger needle after blocking

Tools • Size 5 (3.75 mm): 32" circular (cir) needle • Size 2½ (3 mm): 24" cir needle and two double-pointed needles (dpn) • Markers (m) • Stitch holders • Tapestry needle

See knittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know.

Notes The body of this pullover is worked in the round from the lower edge to the under-

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Body

❤ ❤✿

Monika Sirna lives, creates and takes care of her two young children in Bayonne, New Jersey. She studied textile engineering and worked in the fashion industry in Europe before moving to the United States. Monika can be found on Ravelry as mdcim.

❤✿

M ar i C hib a

p a g e 14

✿ ✿ ❤❤

Helium Sweater

F inishing

Join shoulders: With tail threaded on a tapestry needle, graft 29 (31, 35, 39, 43, 48) left shoulder sts tog, using Kitchener st, then place 65 (68, 68, 71, 72, 73) back neck sts on larger cir needle and using the same yarn, purl across them, graft 29 (31, 35, 39, 43, 48) right shoulder sts tog. Neckband: With smaller cir needle, RS facing and MC, k65 (68, 68, 71, 72, 73) back neck sts, then pick up and knit 5 sts along left neck, k63 (66, 68, 75, 78, 83) front neck sts from holder, pick up and knit 5 sts along right neck—138 (144, 146, 156, 160, 166) sts. Pm and join in the rnd. Work in twisted rib for 3 rnds. BO all sts in patt. Armhole bands: With smaller cir needle, RS facing and MC, beg at center of underarm, pick up and knit 84 (84, 90, 90, 96, 102) sts evenly around armhole edge. Pm and join in the rnd. Work in twisted rib for 3 rnds. With larger needle, BO all sts in patt. Weave in ends. Block to measurements. Drawstring: With dpn and A, CO 4 sts and work I-cord for 46 (48, 51, 54, 57, 61)". BO all sts. Thread drawstring through eyelets. ❤

Sk2p: Sl 1 st kwise, k2tog, pass sl st over—2 sts dec’d.

B a a h Ya r n S o no m a

Sizes 29¼ (33, 36¾, 40¼, 44)" bust circumference; shown in size 33" Yarn Baah Yarn Sonoma (100% superwash merino; 234 yd [214 m]/100 g): • obsidian (MC), 4 (5, 5, 6, 7) skeins • pretty in pink (CC), 1 skein Gauge 24 sts and 37 rnds = 4" in St st on larger needle Tools • Size 3 (3.25 mm): 24" circular (cir) needle and set of double-pointed needles (dpn) • Size 4 (3.5 mm): 24" cir needle and set of dpn • Markers (m) • Stitch holders • Tapestry needle

See knittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know.

Notes This sweater is worked back and forth in one piece from the lower edge until the intarsia dot and the waist shaping are complete. The lower body is then joined and worked in the round. The sleeves are worked separately in the round from the bottom up, and then sleeves and body are joined and worked in the round to the base of the front neck. The upper yoke is worked back and forth.

With MC and smaller cir needle, CO 55 (64, 66, 75, 77) sts, with CC, CO 78 (84, 100, 106, 122) sts, with a 2nd ball of MC, CO 55 (64, 66, 75, 77) sts—188 (212, 232, 256, 276) sts total. Do not join (see Notes). Working colors as established, work in garter st for 1 (1, 1, 1½, 1½)", ending with a WS row. Change to larger needle. Set-up row (RS) With MC, k55 (64, 66, 75, 77), place marker (pm), work Row 1 of Front Dot chart over 31 sts, pm, with CC, k16 (22, 38, 44, 60), pm, work Row 1 of Back Dot chart over 31 sts, pm, with MC, knit to end. Next row (WS) With MC, k1, purl to m, work Back Dot chart to m, with CC, purl to m, work Front Dot chart to m, with MC, purl to last st, k1. Cont in patt for 6 more rows, ending with a WS row. Shape waist: Next row (RS) K7 (10, 18, 21, 29), k2tog, pm, knit to m, work chart to m, ssk, knit to 2 sts before m, k2tog, sl m, work chart to m, knit to last 9 (12, 20, 23, 31) sts, pm, ssk, knit to end—184 (208, 228, 252, 272) sts rem. Work 7 rows even. Dec row (RS) Knit to 2 sts before m, k2tog, sl m, knit to m, work chart to m, ssk, knit to 2 sts before m, k2tog, sl m, work chart to m, sl m, knit to m, ssk, knit to end—4 sts dec’d. Rep Dec row every 8th row 4 more times—164 (188, 208, 232, 252) sts rem. Work even until piece measures 6¾ (7, 7¼, 7½, 7¾)" from CO, ending with a WS row. Inc row (RS) Knit to m, M1L, sl m, knit to m, work chart to m, sl m, M1R, knit to m, M1L, sl m, work chart to m, sl m, knit to m, sl m, M1R, knit to end—4 sts inc’d. Rep Inc row every 12th row 2 more times—176 (200, 220, 244, 264) sts. At the same time, after charts are complete, break CC and 2nd ball of MC and cont with 1 ball of MC only. Work 9 (1, 9, 1, 9) row(s) even, ending with a WS row. Sizes 29¼ (36¾, 44)" only: Next row (RS) Knit to m, M1L, sl m, [knit to m, sl m] 2 times, M1R, knit to end—178 (222, 266) sts. Work 1 WS row. All sizes: Next row (RS) Ssk, knit to last 2 sts, removing all m, k2tog—176 (198, 220, 242, 264) sts rem. Do not turn. With RS facing, pm and join in the rnd. Work even in St st until piece measures 14½ (15, 15½, 16, 16½)" from CO. Set aside.

Summer14 Knitscene

054_064_KSsmmr14_boldlygo.indd 55

Boldly Go

Stitches

Return 123 (130, 138, 149, 158, 169) held back sts to needle and with RS facing, rejoin MC. Beg with MC and a RS row, work stripe patt back and forth for 55 (55, 59, 59, 63, 67) rows, ending with a RS row and a B row. Break both yarns, leaving a B tail 130" long.

The chart is worked using the intarsia method. Join a new strand of yarn for each block of color, and twist yarns at each color change to avoid holes.

❤ ❤✿

Back

❤ ❤

place rem 32 (34, 38, 42, 46, 51) sts on 2nd holder for left shoulder—32 (34, 38, 42, 46, 51) sts rem for right shoulder. Right shoulder: Dec row (RS) Ssk, knit to end—1 st dec’d. Join A and purl 1 row. With A, rep Dec row—30 (32, 36, 40, 44, 49) sts rem. Break A. With MC, purl 1 row. Rep Dec row—29 (31, 35, 39, 43, 48) sts rem. Break yarn. Place sts on holder. Left shoulder: Return 32 (34, 38, 42, 46, 51) held left shoulder sts to needle and with WS facing, rejoin MC. Purl 1 WS row. Dec row (RS) Knit to last 2 sts, k2tog—1 st dec’d. Join A and purl 1 row. With A, rep Dec row—30 (32, 36, 40, 44, 49) sts rem. Break A. With MC, purl 1 row. Rep Dec row—29 (31, 35, 39, 43, 48) sts rem. Break yarn. Place sts on holder.

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MC MC

CC

Boldly Go

CC

Back Dot

Front Dot 59

59

57

57

55

55

53

53

51

51

49

49

47

47

45

45

43

43

41

41

39

39

37

37

35

35

33

33

31

31

29

29

27

27

25

25

23

23

21

21

19

19

17

17

15

15

13

13

11

11

9

9

7

7

5

5

3

3

1

Sleeves With MC and smaller dpn, CO 58 (63, 72, 77, 85) sts. Pm and join in the rnd. Work in garter st (knit 1 rnd, purl 1 rnd) until piece measures 1 (1, 1, 1½, 1½)" from CO. Change to larger dpn. Work in St st until piece measures 2½" from CO. Inc rnd K1, M1L, knit to last st, M1R, k1—2 sts inc’d. Work even for 1", then work Inc rnd once more—62 (67, 76, 81, 89) sts. Work even until piece measures 6½ (7, 7½, 8, 8½)" from CO. Next rnd Knit to last 7 (8, 9, 9, 10) sts, place next 14 (16, 18, 19, 21) sts on

56

1 31 sts

31 sts

holder for underarm, removing m—48 (51, 58, 62, 68) sts rem. Place sts on holder.

Yoke

Join body and sleeves: With MC attached to body, k81 (91, 101, 111, 122) front sts, place next 14 (16, 18, 19, 21) sts on holder for underarm, k48 (51, 58, 62, 68) held sleeve sts, knit to last 7 (8, 9, 10, 10) sts of back, place next 14 (16, 18, 19, 21) sts on holder for underarm, k48 (51, 58, 62, 68) held sleeve sts, pm for beg of rnd—244 (268, 300, 328, 358) sts total.

Work in St st for 1". Shape neck: Work back and forth in rows. Next row (RS) Remove beg-of-rnd m, k30 (34, 38, 43, 47), BO 14 (15, 16, 16, 17) sts, k1 (this is st on right needle after BO; don’t knit it again), [ssk] 2 times, k80 (89, 100, 111, 121), pm, k60 (65, 74, 80, 89), pm, knit to last 5 sts, [k2tog] 2 times, k1—226 (249, 280, 308, 337) sts rem. Purl 1 WS row. Dec row (RS) K1, [ssk] 2 times, knit to m, ssk, knit to 2 sts before m, k2tog, knit to last 5 sts, [k2tog] 2 times, k1—6 sts dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 8 (11, 15, 20, 25) more

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6½ (7,

7½ , 8 ,

8½)"

5¾ (6¼, 7¼, 8, 9)" 9¾ (10½, 12, 12¾, 14¼)" 10¼ (11¼, 12¾, 13½, 14¾)"

body 14½ (15, 15½, 16, 16½)"

29¼ (33, 36¾, 40¼, 44)"

27¼ (31¼, 34¾, 38¾, 42)" 31¼ (35¼, 38¾, 42¾, 46)"

times—172 (177, 184, 182, 181) sts rem. Purl 1 WS row. Dec row (RS) K1, ssk, knit to m, ssk, k11 (11, 11, 10, 10), pm, ssk, k12 (11, 12, 10, 9), k2tog, pm, knit to 2 sts before m, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—166 (171, 178, 176, 175) sts rem. Purl 1 WS row. Dec row (RS) K1, ssk, [knit to m, ssk] 2 times, [knit to 2 sts before m, k2tog] 2 times, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—6 sts dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 4 (4, 4, 3, 3) more times—136 (141, 148, 152, 151) sts rem. Purl 1 WS row. Sizes 29¼ (36¾, 40¼)" only: Dec row (RS) K1, *ssk; rep from * to 2 sts before m, k2, sl m, [ssk] 3 times, k1, remove m, ssk, k2tog, remove m, k1, [k2tog] 3 times, sl m, k2, **k2tog; rep from ** to last st, k1—72 (78, 80) sts rem. Sizes 33 (44)" only: Dec row (RS) K1, *ssk; rep from * to 1 (2) st(s) before m, k1 (2), sl m, [ssk] 3 times, k1, remove m, sk2p (see Stitches), remove m, k1, [k2tog] 3 times, sl m, k1 (2), **k2tog; rep from ** to last st, k1—73 (79) sts rem. All sizes: Purl 1 WS row. Dec row (RS) K1, ssk, knit to m, ssk, knit to 2 sts before m, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—68 (69, 74, 76, 75) sts rem. Purl 1 WS row. Shape back neck using short-rows as foll: Short-row 1 (RS) K1, ssk, knit to m, sl m, ssk, knit to 2 sts before m, k2tog, sl m, k3, wrap next st, turn—65 (66, 71, 73, 72) sts rem. Short-row 2 (WS) Purl to 2nd m, sl m, p3, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 3 Knit to m, sl m, ssk, knit to 2 sts before m, k2tog, sl m, knit to wrapped st, work wrap tog with wrapped st, k2, wrap next st, turn—63 (64, 69, 71, 70) sts rem. Short-row 4 Purl to wrapped st, work wrap tog with wrapped st, p2, wrap next st, turn. Sizes 29¼ (36¾, 40¼)" only: Short-row 5 Knit to m, remove m, ssk, k2tog, remove m, knit to wrapped st, work wrap

tog with wrapped st, k2, wrap next st, turn—61 (67, 69) sts rem. Sizes 33 (44)" only: Short-row 5 Knit to m, remove m, sk2p, remove m, knit to wrapped st, work wrap tog with wrapped st, k2, wrap next st, turn—62 (68) sts rem. All sizes: Short-row 6 Purl to wrapped st, work wrap tog with wrapped st, p2, wrap next st, turn.

Short-row 7 Knit to wrapped st, work wrap tog with wrapped st, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—60 (61, 66, 68, 67) sts rem. Do not BO.

F inishing

Neckband: With RS facing and MC attached to yoke, beg at top of left front neck, pick up and knit 3 sts for every 4 rows along left front neck, 1 st for each BO st at center front, then 3 sts for every 4 rows along right front neck. Pm and join in the rnd. Purl 1 rnd. Knit 1 rnd. Purl 1 rnd. Next rnd Knit, dec 22 sts evenly spaced. Purl 1 rnd. Knit 1 rnd. Purl 1 rnd. Next rnd Knit, dec 12 sts evenly spaced. Purl 1 rnd. BO all sts as foll: K2, transfer 2 sts from right needle to left needle, k2tog tbl, *k1, transfer 2 sts from right needle to left needle, k2tog tbl; rep from * to end; fasten off last st. Graft underarm sts tog using Kitchener st. Sew side seam. Weave in ends. Wash and block to measurements. ❤

Mari Chiba knits, designs, and tames lions from her home office in Raleigh, North Carolina. You can read her weekly ramblings at www.mariknits.com and find her designs on Ravelry as MariChiba.

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Boldly Go

6¼ (6½, 7, 7¼, 7)"

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✿ ❤ ❤

Gauge 25 sts and 22 rnds = 4" in Body chart

knit

on larger needle

❤ ❤✿

Boldly Go

Tools

purl

• Size 5 (3.75 mm): 16" circular (cir) needle • Size 9 (5.5 mm): 16" cir needle and set of double-pointed needles (dpn) • Marker (m) • Cable needle (cn) • Tapestry needle

k2tog ssk sl 1 kwise, k2tog, psso

See knittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know.

pattern repeat sl 1 st onto cn, hold in back, k1, k1 from cn

Notes The entire ball of yarn was used when making this hat. Consider purchasing an additional ball of yarn for insurance.

sl 1 st onto cn, hold in front, k1, k1 from cn sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in back, k1, k2 from cn

Hat

❤ ❤✿

✿ ✿

Krypton Hat

✿ ❤❤

❤✿

M e g a n We r d m ull e r vo n El g g p a g e 17

Ribbing: With smaller needle, CO 111 sts. Place marker and join in the rnd. Work in k2, p1 rib until piece measures 2" from CO. Next rnd P1, k4, M1, k1, *p1, k6; rep from * to end—112 sts. Body: Change to larger cir needle. Work Rnds 1–21 of Body chart once. Shape crown: Work Rnds 1–17 of Crown chart, changing to dpn when necessary—8 sts rem. Break yarn, draw yarn through rem sts and fasten off.

F inishing F i l at u r a D i C ro s a S p o r t w o o l

Size 18" circumference Yarn Filatura Di Crosa Sportwool (100% merino wool; 136 yd [125 m]/50 g): • #1597 lime, 1 ball Yarn distributed by Tahki-Stacy Charles Inc.

sl 1 st onto cn, hold in front, k2, k1 from cn sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in back, k1, k2tog from cn—1 st dec’d sl 1 st onto cn, hold in front, k2tog, k1 from cn—1 st dec’d

Crown

17

Weave in ends. Block. ❤

15

Megan Werdmuller von Elgg’s dreams

13

are made of yarn and fabric. She crafts in Santa Cruz, California, and her craft ventures can be found online at www.dinomeg.wordpress.com.

11 9 7 5 3 1 14 st dec’d to 1 st repeat

Body 21 19 17 15 13 11 9 7 5 3 1 14 st repeat

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Download this and other fabulous Noro patterns at www.noromagazine.com Cropped Mesh Cardigan made with Noroâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Shiraito yarn

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A nn i e Wa t t s p a g e 19

Weave in ends. Wash gently and lay flat to dry. ❤

Annie Watts knits and lives in Lafayette, CO. She can be found online at www .wattsolak.com or on Ravelry as Wattsolak.

✿ ✿

Xenon Mitts

F inishing

❤✿

✿ ❤❤ ✿

❤ ❤✿

sl m, work in rib patt to m, sl m, p1, p2tog, k1, sl m, knit to end—34 (38) sts rem. Next rnd Knit to m, sl m, k1, p2, sl m, work in rib patt to m, sl m, p2, k1, sl m, knit to end. Dec rnd Knit to m, sl m, ssk, p1, remove m, work in rib patt to m, remove m, p1, k2tog, sl m, knit to end—32 (36) sts rem. Next rnd Knit to m, remove m, work in rib patt to m, remove m, knit to end. Cuff: Next rnd *K1, p1; rep from * to end. Rep last rnd 2 more times. Loosely BO all sts in patt.

Boldly Go

(9) times, pm, [k1, p1] 6 (7) times, k1, pm, [p1, k1] 8 (9) times, sl m, knit to end. Shape thumb gusset: Rnd 1 Knit to m, sl m, work in rib patt as established to 4 sts before m, k1, ssp, p1, sl m, work in rib patt to m, sl m, p1, p2tog, k1, work in rib patt to m, sl m, knit to end—2 sts dec’d. Rnd 2 Knit to m, sl m, work in rib patt to 3 sts before m, k1, p2, sl m, work in rib patt to m, sl m, p2, k1, work in rib patt to m, sl m, knit to end. Rnd 3 Knit to m, sl m, work in rib patt to 3 sts before m, ssk, p1, sl m, work in rib patt to m, sl m, p1, k2tog, work in rib patt to m, sl m, knit to end—2 sts dec’d. Rnd 4 Knit to m, sl m, work in rib patt to last m, sl m, knit to end. Rep last 4 rnds 5 (6) more times—36 (40) sts rem. Dec rnd Knit to m, sl m, k1, ssp, p1,

❤ ❤✿

❤ ❤

S w e e t G e o rg i a Ya r n s S up e r w a s h D K

Sizes 6 (6¾)" palm circumference; shown in size 6¾" Yarn Sweet Georgia Yarns Superwash DK (100% merino; 256 yd [234 m]/115 g): • summer skin, 1 skein Gauge 26 sts and 34 rnds = 4" in St st Tools • Size 6 (4 mm): set of double-pointed needles (dpn) • Markers (m) • Tapestry needle

See knittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know.

Notes These mitts are worked in the round from the top down.

Mitts

CO 44 (50) sts. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Next rnd *K1, p1; rep from * to end. Rep last rnd 3 more times. Next rnd K8, pm, [k1, p1] 14 (16) times, k1, pm, k7 (9). Next rnd Knit to m, sl m, [k1, p1] 14 (16) times, k1, sl m, knit to end. Rep last rnd once more. Thumb opening: Knit to m, sl m, [k1, p1] 7 (8) times, then using the backward-loop method, CO 16 (18) sts, [k1, p1] 7 (8) times, k1, sl m, knit to end—60 (68) sts. Next rnd Knit to m, sl m, [k1, p1] 8

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Garments

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Order online at InterweaveStore.com.

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There is a ½   stitch per inch difference between the gauge of the charted pattern and the stockinette gauge. When the sweater is worn the stitches stretch out to approximately the same gauge. This difference gives a more form-fitted appearance, without the feel of negative ease. When using hand-dyed yarns, it can be helpful to alternate yarn ends every two rounds to minimize color pooling. When working colorwork with hand-dyed yarns, pre-soaking the skeins will help to prevent dye from bleeding into light areas. When working the chart, do not cut the yarn at color changes. Carry the unused color loosely along the inside of the work. When working the yoke, change to longer circular needle when needed.

❤ ❤✿

Boldly Go ❤ ❤✿

p a g e 19

✿ ✿

R a m o n a G a y n or

Radon Pullover

❤✿

✿ ❤❤

Madelinetosh Tosh Sock

Sizes 29¼ (32¼, 33¾, 37, 38½, 41½)"; shown in size 29¼"

Yarn Madelinetosh Tosh Sock (100% superwash merino wool; 395 yd [361 m]/113 g): • Edison bulb (yellow; MC), 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3) skeins • Norway spruce (green; CC1), 1 (1, 1, 1, 2, 2) skein(s) • vintage sari (pink; CC2), 2 (2, 2, 2, 3, 3) skeins Gauge 24 sts and 33 rnds = 4" in St st on larger needle; 26 sts and 44 rnds = 4" in charted patt on larger needle

Stitches Stripe Pattern 1: Work Rows 1–34 of Diamond Slip Stitch chart once, using CC1 for color 1 and MC for color 2. Stripe Pattern 2: Work Rows 1–34 of Diamond Slip Stitch chart once, using CC2 for color 1 and CC1 for color 2. Stripe Pattern 3: Work Rows 1–34 of Diamond Slip Stitch chart once, using MC for color 1 and CC2 for color 2.

Yoke

Neck edging: With MC and smaller cir needle, CO 120 (120, 130, 130, 140, 140) sts. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Purl 1 rnd. Work garter st in rnds (knit 1 rnd, purl 1 rnd) for 4 rnds. Sizes 29¼ (32¼, 38½, 41½)" only: Inc rnd [K2, M1R] 60 (60, 70, 70) times—180 (180, 210, 210) sts.

Tools • Size 4 (3.5 mm): 16" and 24" circular (cir) needles and set of double-pointed needles (dpn) • Size 3 (3.25 mm): 16" cir needle • Markers (m) • Stitch holders • Tapestry needle

20 (20, 21¾, 21¾, 23¼, 23¼)" 9¼ (11, 11, 12¾, 12¾, 14¼)" 12 (12¼, 12¼, 12½, 12½, 12½ )"

6½ (7, 7½, 7¾, 8, 8¼)"

See knittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know.

Notes

Sizes 33¾ (37)" only: Inc rnd [K1, M1R] 3 times, [k2, M1R] 30 times, [k1, M1R] 5 times, [k2, M1R] 30 times, [k1, M1R] 2 times—200 sts. All sizes: Purl 1 rnd. Change to larger 16" cir needle. Work Rnds 1–34 of stripe patt 1 (see Stitches). Break MC and cont with CC1 only. Knit 2 rnds. Size 29¼" only: Inc rnd [K3, M1R] 60 times—240 sts. Knit 8 rnds. Inc rnd [K5, M1R] 48 times—288 sts. Inc rnd K62, M1R, k82, M1L, k144—290 sts. Size 32¼" only: Inc rnd [K2, M1R] 90 times—270 sts. Knit 8 rnds. Inc rnd [K5, M1R] 54 times—324 sts. Knit 4 rnds. Inc rnd [K54, M1R] 6 times— 330 sts. Size 33¾" only: Inc rnd K2, M1R, [k3, M1R] 66 times— 267 sts. Knit 8 rnds. Inc rnd [K4, M1R] 22 times, k3, M1R, [k4, M1R] 44 times— 334 sts. Knit 8 rnds. Inc rnd [K56, M1R] 5 times, k54, M1R—340 sts. Size 37" only: Inc rnd K2, M1R, [k3, M1R] 33 times, k2, M1R, [k3, M1R] 32 times, k1, M1R—268 sts. Knit 9 rnds. Inc rnd [K3, M1R] 66 times, k4, M1R, [k3, M1R] 22 times—357 sts. Knit 8 rnds. Inc rnd K5, M1R, [k16, M1R] 22 times—380 sts. Knit 1 rnd. Size 38½" only: Inc rnd [K3, M1R] 70 times—280 sts. Knit 10 rnds. Inc rnd K5, [k3, M1R] 90 times, k5—370 sts. Knit 9 rnds. Inc rnd [K18, M1R] 5 times, k5, [k18, M1R] 10 times, k5, [k18, M1R] 5 times—390 sts. Knit 1 rnd. Size 41½" only: Inc rnd [K3, M1R] 70 times—280 sts. Knit 11 rnds. Inc rnd [K3, M1R] 69 times, k4, M1R, [k3, M1R] 23 times—373 sts. Knit 10 rnds. Inc rnd K8, M1R, [k7, M1R] 2 times, [k7, M1R, k6, M1R] 27 times—430 sts. Knit 1 rnd.

body

10¾ (12¼, 12¼, 13¾, 13¾, 15½ )" 29¼ (32¼, 33¾, 37, 38½, 41½ )"

17 (17, 17¼, 17¼, 17½, 17½ )"

This pullover is worked in the round from the top down with a circular yoke. The sleeves are worked in the round from the top down.

11¾ (12½, 13¼, 14¼, 15, 15¾)"

❤ ❤

24½ (27¾, 29¼, 32¼, 33¾, 37)" 35 (38¼, 40, 43¼, 45, 48¼)"

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NOW AVAILABLE!

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knit with color 1 purl with color 1 knit with color 2

Boldly Go

knit with color 1

purl with color 2

purl with color 1

sl 1 pwise wyb

knit with color 2

pattern repeat

purl with color 2

Diamond Slip Stitch sl 1 pwise wyb pattern repeat

33 31 29 27 25 23 21 19 17 15 13 11 9

end—4 sts dec’d. Rep Dec rnd every 4th rnd 6 more times—162 (182, 192, 212, 222, 242) sts rem. Knit 3 rnds. Dec rnd Knit to 2 sts before first back dart m, k2tog, sl m, knit to m, ssk, knit to end—160 (180, 190, 210, 220, 240) sts rem. Knit 3 rnds. Work Rnds 1–34 of stripe patt 3 (see Stitches). Break CC2 and cont with MC only. Knit 2 rnds. Inc rnd Knit to first back dart m, M1R, sl m, knit to m, sl m, M1L, knit to end—162 (182, 192, 212, 222, 242) sts. Knit 3 rnds. Inc rnd *Knit to m, M1R, sl m, knit to m, sl m, M1L; rep from * once more, knit to end—4 sts inc’d. Rep Inc rnd every 4th rnd 11 more times—210 (230, 240, 260, 270, 290) sts. Knit 3 (5, 6, 7, 8, 9) rnds. Work in garter st for 11 rnds. Loosely BO all sts.

Sleeves

Place 60 (70, 70, 80, 80, 90) held sleeve sts onto larger dpn. Next rnd Work Rnd 17 of stripe patt 2 to end, with CC2, pick up and knit 10 sts along underarm CO sts—70 (80, 80, 90, 90, 100) sts total. Pm and join in the rnd. Next rnd Work Rnd 18 of patt to last 10 sts, with CC2, [k1, p1] 5 times. Cont in patt over all sts through Rnd 34 of patt. Break CC1 and cont with CC2 only. Dec rnd Knit to last 7 sts, ssk, sl 5 sts to right needle, remove m, return 5 sl sts to left

needle, pm for new beg of rnd—69 (79, 79, 89, 89, 99) sts rem. Dec rnd K1, k2tog, knit to end—68 (78, 78, 88, 88, 98) sts rem. Knit 6 rnds. Dec rnd Knit to last 2 sts, ssk—1 st dec’d. Dec rnd K1, k2tog, knit to end—1 st dec’d. Rep last 8 rnds 3 more times—60 (70, 70, 80, 80, 90) sts rem. Knit 4 rnds. Work Rnds 1–34 of stripe patt 3. Break CC2 and cont with MC only. Dec rnd Knit to last 2 sts, ssk—59 (69, 69, 79, 79, 89) sts rem. Dec rnd K1, k2tog, knit to end—58 (68, 68, 78, 78, 88) sts rem. Knit 6 rnds. Dec rnd Knit to last 2 sts, ssk—57 (67, 67, 77, 77, 87) sts rem. Dec rnd K1, k2tog, knit to end—56 (66, 66, 76, 76, 86) sts rem. Knit 2 (4, 4, 6, 6, 6) rnds. Knit 1 rnd, inc 14 (9, 14, 9, 14, 9) sts evenly spaced—70 (75, 80, 85, 90, 95) sts. Knit 1 rnd. Work in garter st for 11 rnds. Loosely BO all sts.

F inishing

Weave in ends. Block to measurements. ❤

Ramona Gaynor loves to spend time knitting and listening to a good British murder mystery while sitting in the garden with one of her pet chickens in her lap. Ramona knits, designs, and teaches in Sonoma County, California. Find her online at www.mockingbirdandme.com.

7 5 3 1 10 st repeat

All sizes: Work Rnds 1–16 of stripe patt 2 (see Stitches)—yoke measures about 6½ (7, 7½, 7¾, 8, 8¼)". Divide for body and sleeves: Next rnd (Rnd 17 of patt) Place 60 (70, 70, 80, 80, 90) sts on holder for sleeve, using the backward-loop method, CO 10 sts, work 90 (100, 100, 110, 120, 130) sts in patt for front, place next 60 (70, 70, 80, 80, 90) sts on holder for sleeve, CO 10 sts, work 80 (90, 100, 110, 110, 120) sts in patt for back—190 (210, 220, 240, 250, 270) sts for body.

Body

Work through Rnd 34 of patt. Break CC1 and cont with CC2 only. Knit 5 rnds. Shape waist: Set-up rnd K31 (33, 33, 36, 38, 41), pm for front dart, k49 (55, 55, 59, 65, 69), pm for front dart, k48 (53, 55, 61, 63, 68), pm for back dart, k45 (49, 55, 59, 59, 65), pm for back dart, k17 (20, 22, 25, 25, 27). Dec rnd *Knit to 2 sts before m, k2tog, sl m, knit to m, ssk; rep from * once more, knit to

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Knit something cozy, quick, and cute! Find 50 projects for babies and kids, gifts, home décor items, and everyday accessories and garments, all knit in affordable Cascade Pacific and Cascade Pacific Chunky yarns. Cozy Knits has techniques for knitters of all Co skill sk levels, including cables, lace, brioche knitting, intarsia, in Fair Isle, and slip-stitch, as well as triedand-true an stockinette stitch and garter stitch. This Th collection offers projects that every member m of the family will love, including sweaters, sw shawls, shrugs, mittens, hats, afghans, af and baby blankets. Cozy Knits 50 Fast & Easy Projects from Top Designers Tanis Gray ISBN 978-1-62033-065-4 184 18 4 pages, page pa gess, $18.95 $18 $18.95 95

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Summer14 Knitscene

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6¾ (7, 7¾, 7¾, 8½ )"

✿ ❤ ❤

2¼ (2¾, 3¼, 4, 4½ )"

❤ ❤✿

Lace

7 (7½, 7½, 8, 8½ )"

14"

6½ (7, 7, 7½, 8)"

front & back

16¼ (17¾, 19¼, 20¾, 22¼)"

Back

❤ ❤✿

✿ ✿

Stoxa Tank

B o nn i e N ur n b e r g e r page 2 5

❤✿

✿ ❤❤

With straight needles and CC, CO 85 (93, 101, 109, 117) sts. Knit 4 rows. With MC, knit 4 rows. With CC, knit 4 rows. Break CC and cont with MC only. Next row (RS) Knit. Next row (WS) Knit. Next row (RS) Purl. Cont in rev St st (purl on RS rows, knit on WS rows) until piece measures 14" from CO, ending with a WS row. Shape armholes: BO 6 sts at beg of next 2 rows—73 (81, 89, 97, 105) sts rem. Next row (RS) P1, p3tog, purl to last 4 sts, p3tog, p1—69 (77, 85, 93, 101) sts rem. Work 1 WS

row even. Dec row (RS) Sl 1, p2tog, purl to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1—2 sts dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 4 more times—59 (67, 75, 83, 91) sts rem. Work even until armhole measures 6½ (7, 7, 7½, 8)", ending with a WS row. Break yarn. Place 12 (15, 17, 21, 23) sts each side on separate holders for shoulders and place center 35 (37, 41, 41, 45) sts on holder for neck.

Front

With straight needles and CC, CO 85 (93, 101, 109, 117) sts. Knit 4 rows. With MC,

S p u d & C h l o ë F i ne

Sizes 32½ (35½, 38½, 41½, 44½)" bust circumference; shown in size 32½"

Yarn Spud & Chloë Fine (80% superwash wool, 20% silk; 248 yd [227 m]/65 g): • shitake (brown; MC), 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) skeins • snorkel (blue; CC), 1 skein Yarn distributed by Blue Sky Alpacas Gauge 21 sts and 38 rows = 4" in Lace patt

Tools • Size 3 (3.25 mm): straight and 16" circular (cir) needle • Marker (m) • Stitch holders • Tapestry needle

See knittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know.

Notes This tank is worked from the bottom up in separate pieces and seamed. The front armhole is one-half inch longer than the back for a better fit over the back neck. When working armhole and neck shaping in the lace pattern, if there are not enough stitches to pair decreases with yarn overs, work these stitches in stockinette stitch instead.

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F inishing

yo

k2tog

ssk

sl 2 as if to k2tog, k1, p2sso

pattern repeat

Lace 7 5 3 1 8 st repeat

Gauge 11 sts and 13 rnds = 4" in umbrella lace patt; 8 sts and 13 rows = 4" in mesh lace patt

Block pieces. Join shoulders, using three-needle BO. Sew side seams. Neckband: With RS facing, CC, and cir needle, beg at left shoulder seam, pick up and knit 25 (30, 30, 32, 35) sts evenly along left front neck edge, knit 19 (21, 25, 25, 29) front neck sts from holder, pick up and knit 25 (30, 30, 32, 35) sts along right front neck edge, knit 35 (37, 41, 41, 45) back neck sts from holder—104 (118, 126, 130, 144) sts. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. [Purl 1 rnd, knit 1 rnd] 2 times. Loosely BO all sts. Armhole bands: With RS facing, CC, and cir needle, beg at center of underarm, pick up and knit 85 (90, 90, 95, 100) sts evenly around armhole edge. Pm and join in the rnd. [Purl 1 rnd, knit 1 rnd] 2 times. Loosely BO all sts. Weave in ends. ❤

Tools • Size 11 (8 mm): 24" to 32" circular (cir) needle (depending on size you are making) • Markers (m) • Stitch holders • Size H/8 (5 mm) crochet hook • Tapestry needle

Lace

k on RS, p on WS

See knittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know.

Notes The body is worked in the round in the Umbrella Lace pattern to the underarms, then the upper front and back are worked separately back and forth in the Mesh Lace pattern. Always shift the beginning of round marker at the ends of Rows 4  and 10 of the Umbrella Lace chart.

Bonnie Nurnberger was born and raised in China, and has more than twenty-five years of knitting experience. She recently learned to spin and dye her own yarn.

Stitches

✿ ❤ ❤

Sk2p: Sl 1 st kwise, k2tog, pass sl st over— 2 sts dec’d.

❤ ❤✿

Mesh Lace: (odd number of sts) Row 1 (RS) K1, *yo, k2tog; rep from * to end. Row 2 Purl. Rep Rows 1 and 2 for patt.

Body

❤ ❤✿

✿ ✿

❤✿

Bethel Tank

L ex i N e l s o n page 2 6

✿ ❤❤

R o w a n S u m m e r Tw e e d

Sizes 30½ (35, 48, 52¼, 65½)" bust circumference; shown in size 30½"

Yarn Rowan Summer Tweed (70% silk, 30% cotton; 131 yd [120 m]/50 g): • #515 raffia, 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) skeins Yarn distributed by Westminster Fibers

knit 4 rows. With CC, knit 4 rows. Break CC and cont with MC only. Work Lace chart until piece measures about 14" from CO, ending with Row 2 of chart. Shape armholes: BO 6 sts at beg of next 2 rows—73 (81, 89, 97, 105) sts rem. Dec row 1 (RS) (See Notes) K1, sssk, work in patt to last 4 sts, k3tog, k1—4 sts dec’d. Work 1 WS row even. Rep last 2 rows once more—65 (73, 81, 89, 97) sts rem. Dec row 2 (RS) K1, ssk, work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—2 sts dec’d. Rep Dec row 2 every other row 2 more times, then every 4th row 2 times—55 (63, 71, 79, 87) sts rem. Work even until armhole measures about 2½", ending with Row 2 of chart. Shape neck: Next row (RS) P14 (17, 19, 23, 25), p3tog, p1, place next 19 (21, 25, 25, 29) sts on holder for neck, then place rem 18 (21, 23, 27, 29) sts on 2nd holder for right shoulder—16 (19, 21, 25, 27) sts rem for left shoulder. Left shoulder: Knit 1 WS row. Dec row (RS) Purl to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1—1 st dec’d. Cont in rev St st, rep Dec row every 4th row 3 more times—12 (15, 17, 21, 23) sts rem. Work even until armhole measures 7 (7½, 7½, 8, 8½)", ending with a WS row. Break yarn and place sts on holder. Right shoulder: Return 18 (21, 23, 27, 29) held right shoulder sts to needle and with RS facing, rejoin yarn. Next row (RS) P1, p3tog, purl to end—16 (19, 21, 25, 27) sts rem. Knit 1 WS row. Dec row (RS) P1, p2tog, purl to end—1 st dec’d. Rep Dec row every 4th row 3 more times—12 (15, 17, 21, 23) sts rem. Work even until armhole measures 7 (7½, 7½, 8, 8½)", ending with a WS row. Do not break yarn.

CO 120 (144, 168, 192, 216) sts. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Work Rows 1–12 of Umbrella Lace chart once, working marked rows as foll: Row 4 Knit to last st, sl st from left needle to right needle, remove m, transfer sl st to left needle, pm for new beg of rnd. Row 10 Knit to last 2 sts, sl 2 sts from left needle to right needle, remove m, transfer 2 sl sts to left needle, pm for new beg of rnd. Shape waist: Rnd 1 [K1, k2tog] 4 times, work Row 1 of Umbrella Lace Shaping chart to last 12 sts, [k1, k2tog] 4 times—112 (136, 160, 184, 208) sts rem. Rnds 2, 4, 6, and 8 Work even in patt. Rnd 3 [K2tog] 4 times, work Row 3 of chart to last 8 sts, [k2tog] 4 times—104 (128, 152, 176, 200) sts rem. Rnd 5 [K2tog] 2 times, work Row 5 of chart to last 4 sts, [k2tog] 2 times—100 (124, 148, 172, 196) sts rem. Rnd 7 K2tog, work Row 7 of chart to last 2 sts, k2tog—98 (122, 146, 170, 194) sts rem. Rnd 9 K2tog, skipping first k1 of chart, work Row 9 of Umbrella Lace chart to last 3 sts (omitting last ssk of chart), sk2p (see Summer14 Knitscene

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4½ (5½, 6½, 7½, 8½)"

4"

4 (4, 5, 5, 6)"

Lace

7 (8, 9, 10, 11)"

7 (7, 9, 9, 11)"

30½ (35, 48, 52¼, 65½)" 16"

4"

body

knit yo k2tog

43¾ (52¼, 61, 69¾, 78½)"

ssk

Umbrella Lace

knit

k3tog

yo

sl 1, k2tog, psso

k2tog

5

ssk

5

11 10* 9

k5tog 7

pattern repeat

5

k3tog

5 4* 3 1

12 st repeat

sl 1, k2tog, psso

* Work as given in directions

k5togLace Shaping 5 Umbrella pattern repeat

5

11

5

9 7 5

5

5

5 3 1

12 st repeat

Stitches)—96 (120, 144, 168, 192) sts rem. Rnds 10–12 Work Umbrella Lace chart over all sts. Sizes 30½ (48, 65½)" only: Rnd 1 [K2tog] 3 times, work Row 7 of Umbrella Lace Shaping chart to last 6 sts, [k2tog] 3 times—90 (138, 186) sts rem. Rnds 2 and 4 Work even in patt. Rnd 3 K3tog, work Row 9 of chart to last 3 sts, k3tog—86 (134, 182) sts rem. Rnd 5 K4tog, skipping first k3tog of chart, work Row 11 of chart to last 3 sts (omitting last ssk of chart), sk2p—84 (132, 180) sts rem. Rnd 6 Work Row 12 of Umbrella Lace chart over all sts. Sizes 35 (52¼)" only: Rep Rnds 1–12 of waist shaping—96 (144) sts rem. All sizes: Work even until piece measures 20" from CO at longest point, ending with Row 5 or 11 of chart. Divide for front and back: Next rnd K14 (16, 22, 24, 30) and place these sts on holder for half of back, BO 12 (14, 20, 22, 28) sts, k32 (36, 48, 52, 64) for front, BO 12 (14, 20, 22, 28) sts, knit to end and place these sts on same holder as other back sts, removing m—32 (36, 48, 52, 64) sts rem for front. Break yarn.

Front

With RS facing, rejoin yarn. Next row (RS) Pick up and knit 1 st, *yo, k2tog; rep from * to end—33 (37, 49, 53, 65) sts. Purl 1 WS row. Work in mesh lace patt (see Stitches) until armhole measures 3 (4, 4, 5, 5)", ending with a WS row. Divide for neck: Next row (RS) Work 11 (13, 15, 17, 19) sts and place these sts on holder for left strap, BO 11 (11, 19, 19, 27) sts, work to end—11 (13, 15, 17, 19) sts rem for right strap. Right strap: Work 1 WS row. Next row Work to last 4 sts, yo, k4tog—9 (11, 13, 15, 17) sts rem. Work even in patt until armhole measures 7 (8, 9, 10, 11)", ending with a WS row. Place sts on holder. Left strap: Return 11 (13, 15, 17, 19) held left strap sts to needle and, with WS facing, rejoin yarn. Work 1 WS row. Next row (RS) K3tog, *yo, k2tog; rep from * to end—9 (11, 13, 15, 17) sts rem. Work even in patt until armhole measures 7 (8, 9, 10, 11)", ending with a WS row. Place sts on holder.

Back

Return 28 (32, 44, 48, 60) held back sts to needle and, with RS facing, rejoin yarn. Dec row (RS) K3tog, work mesh lace patt over 23 (27, 39, 43, 55) sts, k2tog—25 (29, 41, 45, 57) sts rem. Work 1 WS row. Dec row K2tog, work in patt to last 3 sts, k3tog—22 (26, 38, 42, 54) sts rem. Work 1 WS row. Dec

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Lace

Work 40 (40, 54, 54, 67) sc evenly spaced around neckline. Weave in ends. Block garment to measurements. ❤

Lexi Nelson lives and knits in Minneapolis, Minnesota.

❤ ❤✿ ✿

❤ ❤✿

✿ ✿

❤✿

✿ ❤❤

Kinross Tank

❤ ❤

Rim m a Po lik ar p ova page 2 6

B e r ro c o L i n s e y

Sizes 30¼ (34, 37¾, 41½, 45¼, 49)" bust circumference; shown in size 34"

Yarn Berroco Linsey (64% cotton, 36% linen; 114 yd [104 m]/50 g): • #6553 hyacinth, 7 (7, 8, 9, 10, 11) skeins Gauge 22 sts and 32 rows = 4" in St st on size 3 needles

Tools

row K3tog, work in patt to last 3 sts, k3tog—4 sts dec’d. Work 1 WS row. Rep last 2 rows 1 (2, 4, 5, 7) more time(s)—14 (14, 18, 18, 22) sts rem. Work even in patt for 2 (2, 2, 1½, 1½)", keeping st at end of RS rows in St st, ending with a WS row. Inc row (RS) (Knit into front, back, and front) of first st, *yo, k2tog; rep from * to last st, (knit into front, back, and front) of last st—4 sts inc’d. Work 1 WS row. Rep last 2 rows 2 (3, 3, 4, 4) more times—26 (30, 34, 38, 42) sts. Work even in patt until

armhole measures 7 (8, 9, 10, 11)", ending with a WS row. Do not BO. Break yarn, leaving a 2-yd tail.

F inishing

Using yarn attached to back, graft 9 (11, 13, 15, 17) right front shoulder sts to first 9 (11, 13, 15, 17) sts of back, BO 8 back sts, graft 9 (11, 13, 15, 17) left front sts to rem back sts. Armhole edging: With crochet hook, work 33 (38, 42, 47, 52) sc evenly spaced around armhole. Neck edging:

• Size 7 (4.5 mm): 29" circular (cir) needle • Size 5 (3.75 mm): 29" cir needle • Size 4 (3.5 mm): 29" cir needle • Size 3 (3.25 mm): straight needles • Size 2 (2.75 mm): 16" cir needle • Markers (m) • Stitch holders • Cable needle (cn) • Tapestry needle

See knittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know.

Notes This tank is worked in the round from the lower edge to the underarm, then the Summer14 Knitscene

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2¼ (2¼, 2¼, 2½, 3, 3)"

5¾ (7¾, 9¾, 9¾, 9¾, 10¼)"

Lace

4½"

7 (7½, 8, 8½, 9, 9½)"

30¼ (34, 37¾, 41½, 45¼, 49)"

18"

body

Dec row—13 (13, 13, 14, 17, 17) sts rem. BO all sts. Right shoulder: Return 29 (34, 40, 41, 44, 45) held right shoulder sts to needle and, with WS facing, rejoin yarn. Next row (WS) BO 8 (10, 12, 13, 13, 13) sts, purl to end— 21 (24, 28, 28, 31, 32) sts rem. Dec row (RS) Knit to last 2 sts, k2tog—1 st dec’d. Next row (WS) BO 4 (6, 7, 7, 7, 8) sts, purl to end—16 (17, 20, 20, 23, 23) sts rem. Rep Dec row—15 (16, 19, 19, 22, 22) sts rem. Next row (WS) BO 1 (2, 5, 4, 4, 4) st(s), purl to end—14 (14, 14, 15, 18, 18) sts rem. Rep Dec row—13 (13, 13, 14, 17, 17) sts rem. BO all sts.

Front 34¾ (39, 43¼, 47¾, 52, 56¼)"

front and back are worked separately back and forth.

Body

With size 5 needle, CO 168 (189, 210, 231, 252, 273) sts. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Purl 1 rnd. Change to size 7 needle. Work Rows 1–56 of Lace and Cables chart once. Change to size 5 needle and work Rows 1–56 of chart once more. Change to size 4 needle and work Rows 1–24 of Cable chart once—piece measures about 18" from CO. Divide for front and back: Place first 84 (95, 105, 116, 126, 137) sts on holder for front—84 (94, 105, 115, 126, 136) sts rem for back.

Back

Change to size 3 needles and work back and forth in St st. Shape armholes: Next row (WS) Purl. Next row (RS) BO 4 sts, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog—79 (89, 100, 110, 121, 131) sts rem. Next row BO 4 sts, purl to last 2 sts, ssp—74 (84, 95, 105, 116, 126) sts

rem. Next row BO 2 sts, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog—71 (81, 92, 102, 113, 123) sts rem. Next row BO 2 sts, purl to last 2 sts, ssp—68 (78, 89, 99, 110, 120) sts rem. Dec row (RS) Ssk, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog—2 sts dec’d. Dec row (WS) P2tog, purl to last 2 sts, ssp—2 sts dec’d. Rep last 2 rows 1 (1, 1, 3, 4, 6) more time(s)—60 (70, 81, 83, 90, 92) sts rem. Next row (RS) Knit to last 2 sts, k2tog—59 (69, 80, 82, 89, 91) sts rem. Next row Purl to last 2 sts, ssp—58 (68, 79, 81, 88, 90) sts rem. Work even until armhole measures 6¼ (6¾, 7¼, 7¾, 8¼, 8¾)", ending with a WS row. Shape neck: Next row (RS) K29 (34, 40, 41, 44, 45) and place these sts on holder for right shoulder, BO 8 (10, 11, 12, 13, 13) sts, knit to end—21 (24, 28, 28, 31, 32) sts rem for left shoulder. Left shoulder: Dec row (WS) Purl to last 2 sts, ssp—1 st dec’d. Next row (RS) BO 4 (6, 7, 7, 7, 8) sts, knit to end—16 (17, 20, 20, 23, 23) sts rem. Rep Dec row—15 (16, 19, 19, 22, 22) sts rem. Next row (RS) BO 1 (2, 5, 4, 4, 4) st(s), knit to end—14 (14, 14, 15, 18, 18) sts rem. Rep

Return 84 (95, 105, 116, 126, 137) held front sts to size 3 needles. With WS facing, rejoin yarn and shape armholes as for back (Note: For sizes 34", 41½", and 49", sts rem after each shaping row are 1 more than on back)—58 (69, 79, 82, 88, 91) sts rem. Work even until armhole measures 2½ (3, 3½, 4,

Lace and Cables 55 53 51 49 47 45 43 41 39 37 35 33 31 29

knit

27

Cable

25 23

23

21

21

19

19

17

17

15

15

13

13

11

11

M

9

9

M

7

7

5

5

3

3

M

purl yo

M M M

k2tog

M M

ssk M

M

M1 pattern repeat sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in front, k2, k2 from cn

70

1 21 st repeat

1 21 st repeat

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❤ ❤✿ ✿

Tools knit (cir) needle • Size 6 (4 mm): 32" circular • Marker (m) • Tapestry needle yo

Lace

❤ ❤

See knittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms k2tog you don’t know. knit

ssk

yo

sl 1 kwise, k2tog, psso

k2tog

ssk

❤ ❤✿

sl 1 kwise, k2tog, psso

Te r e s a G r e g or i o page 2 9

9 7

✿ ❤❤ ✿

❤✿

Indio Cowl

Lace A

4½, 5)", ending with a WS row. Shape neck: Next row (RS) K29 (35, 40, 41, 44, 46) and place these sts on holder for left shoulder, BO 4 (5, 7, 7, 7, 7) sts, knit to end—25 (29, 32, 34, 37, 38) sts rem for right shoulder. Right shoulder: Dec row (WS) Purl to last 2 sts, ssp—1 st dec’d. Next row (RS) BO 2 (3, 4, 5, 5, 6) sts, knit to end—22 (25, 27, 28, 31, 31) sts rem. Rep Dec row—21 (24, 26, 27, 30, 30) sts rem. Next row (RS) BO 0 (1, 2, 2, 2, 2) st(s), knit to end—21 (23, 24, 25, 28, 28) sts rem. Rep Dec row—20 (22, 23, 24, 27, 27) sts rem. Next row (RS) BO 0 (1, 2, 2, 2, 2) st(s), knit to end— 20 (21, 21, 22, 25, 25) sts rem. Rep Dec row—19 (20, 20, 21, 24, 24) sts rem. Next row (RS) [Ssk] 0 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1) time, knit to end— 19 (19, 19, 20, 23, 23) sts rem. Rep Dec row on next row, then every other row 2 more times, then every 4th row once, then every 6th row 2 times—13 (13, 13, 14, 17, 17) sts rem. Work 6 rows even, ending with a WS row. BO all sts. Left shoulder: Return 29 (35, 40, 41, 44, 46) left shoulder sts to size 3 needles. With WS facing, rejoin yarn. Next row (WS) BO 4 (6, 8, 7, 7, 8) sts, purl to end—25 (29, 32, 34, 37, 38) sts rem. Dec row (RS) Knit to last 2 sts, k2tog—1 st dec’d. Next row (WS) BO 2 (3, 4, 5, 5, 6) sts, purl to end— 22 (25, 27, 28, 31, 31) sts rem. Rep Dec row—21 (24, 26, 27, 30, 30) sts rem. Next row (WS) BO 0 (1, 2, 2, 2, 2) st(s), purl to end—21 (23, 24, 25, 28, 28) sts rem. Rep Dec row—20 (22, 23, 24, 27, 27) sts rem. Next row (WS) BO 0 (1, 2, 2, 2, 2) st(s), purl to end—20 (21, 21, 22, 25, 25) sts rem. Rep Dec row—19 (20, 20, 21, 24, 24) sts rem. Next row (WS) [P2tog] 0 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1) time, purl to end—19 (19, 19, 20, 23, 23) sts rem. Rep Dec row on next row, then every other row 2 more times, then every 4th row once, then every 6th row 2 times—13 (13, 13, 14, 17, 17) sts rem. Work 5 rows even, ending with a WS row. BO all sts.

5 3 1 8 st repeat

Lace B B ro w n S he e p C o mp a ny N at u re S p u n S p o r t

5

Sizes 61" circumference and 17" high Yarn Brown Sheep Company Nature Spun Sport (100% wool; 184 yd [168 m]/50 g): • #N04S blue knight, 5 skeins Gauge 20 sts and 26 rows = 4" in lace A patt

3 1 8 st repeat

F inishing

Weave in ends. Block to measurements. Sew shoulder seams. Armhole edging: With size 2 needle and RS facing, pick up and knit 80 (86, 92, 98, 104, 108) sts evenly spaced around armhole. Pm and join in the rnd. Purl 1 rnd. BO all sts kwise. Neck edging: With size 2 needle and RS facing, pick up and knit 100 (116, 134, 134, 136, 138) sts evenly spaced around neck edge. Pm and join in the rnd. Purl 2 rnds. Next rnd *Yo, k2tog; rep from * around. Purl 1 rnd. BO all sts. ❤

Rimma Polikarpova is a fashion designer living in New York.

Summer14 Knitscene

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Notes

See knittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know.

This cowl is worked in the round in one piece.

Lace

Notes

Cowl

This shawl is worked back and forth from the bottom up. A circular needle is used to accommodate the la rge num ber of stitches. The entire skein of yarn was used in making this shawl. Consider purchasing an additional skein of yarn to make certain you have enough or to make the shawl larger by working additional repeats of the chart. When working the chart, it may be helpful to place markers between stitch pattern repeats.

CO 304 sts. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Work Rnds 1–10 of Lace A chart 6 times. Work Rnds 1–5 of Lace B chart 12 times. BO all sts.

F inishing

Weave in ends. Block. ❤

Teresa Gregorio lives in Hamilton, Ontario, Canada, and blogs at www.canaryknits .com. You can find her on Ravelry as canarysanctuary, and she hangs out on Twitter @canarysanctuary.

CO 19 sts. Do not join. Knit 2 rows. Work Rows 1–18 of Lace chart (page 73) once—51 sts. Work Rows 1–18 of chart 6 more times, working 16-st rep 2 additional times with each rep—243 sts. Next row (RS) Purl. Knit 4 rows. Loosely BO all sts as foll: K1, *yo, k1, pass first knit st and yo over last knit st; rep from * to end.

F inishing

Weave in ends. Block shawl to measurements. ❤

Jen Lucas lives, knits and crochets in Fox River Grove, Illinois. She can be found online at www.jenlucasdesigns.com.

❤ ❤✿ ✿

❤ ❤

❤ ❤✿

Jen Lucas

page 2 9

✿ ✿

Leven Shawl

❤✿

✿ ❤❤

Shawl

T h re e I r i s h G i r l s G l e n h av e n C a s h m e r i no S o c k

Size 58" wide and 20" deep Yarn Three Irish Girls Glenhaven Cashmerino Sock (80% merino, 10% cashmere, 10% nylon; 370 yd [347 m]/100 g): • lucky penny, 1 skein Gauge 17 sts and 30 rows = 4" in Lace patt

Tools • Size 5 (3.75 mm): 24" circular (cir) needle • Tapestry needle

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Lace

k on RS; p on WS

k2tog

p on RS; k on WS

ssk

yo

sl 1 kwise, k2tog, psso—2 sts dec’d

k2tog

4

sl 1 kwise, k3tog, psso—3 sts dec’d

p on RS; k on WS

ssk

5

sl 1 kwise, k4tog, psso—4 sts dec’d

yo

sl 1 kwise, k2tog, psso—2 sts dec’d

k2tog

4

sl 1 kwise, k3tog, psso—3 sts dec’d

ssk

5

sl 1 kwise, k4tog, psso—4 sts dec’d

sl 1 kwise, k2tog, psso—2 sts dec’d

pattern repeat 5

4

sl 1 kwise, k3tog, psso—3 sts dec’d

4

5

sl 1 kwise, k4tog, psso—4 sts dec’d

Lace

k on RS; p on WS

pattern repeat

17 15 13

4 11 9

5 pattern repeat

4

7

4 5 3

5 4

1

4 16 st repeat

✿ ❤ ❤

Gauge 24 sts and 34 rnds = 4" in charted patt on larger needle

❤ ❤✿

Tools • Size 5 (3.75 mm): 32" circular (cir) needle • Size 3 (3.25 mm): 32" and 16" cir needles and set of double-pointed needles (dpn) • Markers (m) • Stitch holders • Tapestry needle

See knittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know.

Notes This sweater is worked in the round from the lower edge to the underarms, then the front and back are worked separately back and forth.

❤ ❤✿

Body

J e a n C h un g

page 3 0

Hem: With smaller cir needle, CO 204 (226, 246, 266, 286, 308) sts. Place marker (pm)

Austin Tee

✿ ❤❤

❤✿

and join in the rnd. Next rnd *P1, k1; rep from * to end. Cont in rib for 13 more rnds. Purl 1 rnd for turning ridge. Work in rib for 13 rnds. Joining rnd Fold hem in half at turning ridge with WS tog. *Knit 1 st from left needle tog with 1 st from CO edge; rep from * around. At end of rnd, [M1] 1 (0, 0, 0, 1, 0) time—205 (226, 246, 266, 287, 308) sts. Change to larger cir needle. Next rnd P0 (5, 0, 5, 0, 5), pm, beg and ending as indicated for front for your size, work Lace chart (page 74) over 102 (103, 123, 123, 143, 144) sts, pm, p0 (10, 0, 10, 0, 10), pm, beg and ending as indicated for back for your size, work Lace chart over 103 (103, 123, 123, 144, 144) sts, pm, p0 (5, 0, 5, 0, 5). Cont in patt, work Rows 1–48 of Lace chart 2 times, then work Rows 1–21 once more. Divide for front and back: [M1LP] 0 (0, 0, 0, 1, 0) time, work 102 (113, 123, 133, 143, 154) sts in patt, [M1LP] 1 (0, 1, 0, 1, 1) time, work in patt over 103 (113, 123, 133, 144,

10¼ (10¼, 10, 13½, 13½, 13½ )" 3½ (4¼, 5¼, 4¼, 5¼, 6¼)" 2¼ (2¼, 2¼, 2½, 2½, 3¼)"

5½ (5½, 5½, 6¼, 6¼, 7)"

C a s c a de Ya r n s U l t r a P i m a F i ne

body

Sizes 34¼ (37¾, 41, 44¼, 47¾, 51¼)" bust circumference; shown in size 34¼"

15½"

Yarn Cascade Yarns Ultra Pima Fine (100% pima cotton; 137 yd [125 m]/50 g): • #3780 summer moss, 8 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12) skeins

Note: Length measurements do not include hem. 34¼ (37¾, 41, 44¼, 47¾, 51¼)" Summer14 Knitscene

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p on RS; k on WS yo k2tog on RS; p2tog on WS

Lace

k on RS; p on WS

ssk on RS; ssp on WS

p on RS; k on WS

sl 1 kwise, k2tog, psso

yo

pattern repeat

k2tog on RS; p2tog on WS ssk on RS; ssp on WS Lace 47

sl 1 kwise, k2tog, psso

45

pattern repeat

43 41 39

center of underarm, pick up and knit 64 (64, 64, 72, 72, 82) sts evenly spaced around armhole edge. Pm and join in the rnd. Work in k1, p1 rib for 8 rnds. Purl 1 rnd for turning ridge. Work in k1, p1 rib for 7 rnds. BO all sts. Neckband: With smaller 16" cir needle and RS facing, beg at right shoulder, pick up and knit 180 (180, 178, 226, 226, 244) sts around neck opening. Pm and join in the rnd. Work in k1, p1 rib for 8 rnds. Purl 1 rnd for turning ridge. Work in k1, p1 rib for 7 rnds. BO all sts. Block sweater to measurements. Fold neckband to WS along turning ridge and sew BO edge to picked-up sts. Rep for armhole edging. ❤

37

Jean Chung is a Southern California-based

35

knitwear designer whose works have been published in numerous magazines and on her website www.jdknitter.com.

33 31 29 27 25 23 21 19 17 15 13 11 9 7 5 3 1 end back 34¼" 47¾" end front & back 37¾" 51¼"

end front 34¼" 47¾" beg back 34¼" 47¾" beg front & back 37¼" 51¼"

154) sts, [M1RP] 0 (0, 1, 0, 1, 1) time—206 (226, 248, 266, 290, 310) sts. Place last 103 (113, 124, 133, 145, 155) sts on holder for back.

Front

Working back and forth in rows and working any inc’d sts in rev St st, work Rows 23–48 of chart once, then work Rows 1–6 of chart 0 (0, 0, 1, 1, 1) more time. Shape neck: Next row (RS) Work 21 (26, 32, 26, 32, 37) sts and place these sts on holder for left shoulder, BO 61 (61, 60, 81, 81, 81) sts, work to end—21 (26, 32, 26, 32,

74

beg front & back 41" 44¼" end front & back 41" 44¼"

beg front 34¼" 47¾"

37) sts rem for right shoulder. Right shoulder: Work Rows 2–20 (2–20, 2–20, 8–28, 8–28, 8–34) of chart once. BO all sts. Left shoulder: With WS side facing, return held left shoulder sts to needle. Work as for right shoulder.

Back

With RS side facing, return held back sts to needle. Work as for front.

F inishing

Sew shoulder seams. Armhole edging: With smaller dpn and RS facing, beg at

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075_KSsmmr14.indd 75

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❤ ❤✿ ✿

Cont in St st, rep Eyelet row every 8th row to end of sleeve. At the same time, when sleeve measures 5" from CO, end with a WS row and place marker (pm) after 21st (22nd, 24th, 25th, 26th) st to mark underarm “seam.” Inc row (RS) Work to 2 sts before m, RLI, k2, sl m, k2, LLI, work to end—2 sts inc’d. Rep Inc row every 8 (6, 4, 4, 4)th row 7 (8, 3, 6, 8) more times, then every 0 (8, 6, 6, 6)th row 0 (1, 8, 6, 7) time(s)—58 (64, 72, 76, 84) sts. Work even until sleeve measures 16¾ (17, 17, 17¼, 17¼)" from CO, ending with a RS row. Next row (WS) P24 (27, 30, 32, 35), BO 10 (10, 12, 12, 14) sts, purl to end—24 (27, 30, 32, 35) sts rem each side. Do not break yarn. Place sts each side on separate holders.

Lace ❤ ❤✿

Body

Julia Far w e ll - C l a y page 3 0

✿ ✿

Manchester Pullover

✿ ❤❤

❤✿

With cir needle, CO 168 (188, 208, 228, 248) sts. Pm and join in the rnd. Next rnd K84 (94, 104, 114, 124), pm, knit to end. Knit 4 more rnds. Purl 1 rnd. Knit 1 rnd. Purl 1 rnd. Work in St st until piece measures 2½

(2¾, 3, 2½, 3)" from CO. Shape waist: Dec rnd *K2, ssk, knit to 4 sts before m, k2tog, k2, sl m; rep from * once more—4 sts dec’d. Rep Dec rnd every 8 (8, 8, 9, 9)th rnd 4 more times—148 (168, 188, 208, 228) sts rem. Knit 8 rnds. Inc rnd *K2, M1, knit to 2 sts before m, M1, k2, sl m; rep from * once more—4 sts inc’d. Rep Inc rnd every 8 (8, 8, 9, 9)th rnd 4 more times—168 (188, 208, 228, 248) sts. Work even until piece measures 14½ (15, 15½, 16, 16½)" from CO. Divide for front and back: Next row (RS) Knit to 5 (5, 6, 6, 7) sts before m, BO 10 (10, 12, 12, 14) sts, removing m, knit to last 5 (5, 6, 6, 7) sts, BO 10 (10, 12, 12, 14) sts, removing m—74 (84, 92, 102, 110) sts rem each side. Break yarn. Place last 74 (84, 92, 102, 110) sts on holder for front.

Back

Join back and back of sleeves: Note: Cont working eyelet rows as established at sleeve edges. With RS facing, and using working yarn from first sleeve, work first 24

9½ (9¼, 9½, 10½, 10¾)" 3¼"

16 ¾

Valley Yarns Southwick

Sizes 33½ (37½, 41½, 45½, 49½)" bust circumference; shown in size 33½" Yarn Valley Yarns Southwick (52% pima cotton, 48% bamboo viscose, 105 yd [96 m]/50 g): • Nantucket blue, 9 (10, 11, 12, 14) skeins. Yarn distributed by WEBS Gauge 20 sts and 28 rows = 4" in St st

6¾ (7½, 7¾, 8, 8¾)"

¼,

17¼ )"

body

11½ (12¾, 14½, 15¼, 16¾)"

14½ (15, 15½, 16, 16½ )"

29½ (33½, 37½, 41½, 45½ )"

Tools • Size 5 (3.75 mm): 32" circular (cir) needle and two double-pointed needles (dpn) • Markers (m) • Stitch holders • Tapestry needle

(17, 17, 17

8½ (8¾, 9½, 10, 10½ )"

❤ ❤

33½ (37½, 41½, 45½, 49½ )"

See knittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know.

Notes The sleeves of this pullover are worked first back and forth from the lower edge to the underarm. The body is then worked in the round from the lower edge to the underarm. The back and back of sleeves and the front and front of sleeves are worked separately back and forth.

Sleeves

With cir needle, CO 42 (44, 48, 50, 52) sts. Do not join. [Knit 1 row, purl 1 row] 2 times, knit 1 row. Knit 3 rows. Eyelet row (RS) *K2, yo, ssk, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog, yo, k2.

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other row 4 (6, 23, 27) more times, then every 4th row 5 (3, 1, 0) times, then every other row 9 (12, 0, 0) times—62 (64, 66, 68) sts rem: 8 (8, 7, 7) sts each sleeve, 46 (48, 52, 54) back sts. Note: Do not make eyelets if they land in last dec row. Next row (WS) Knit. Next row Knit, and make eyelets at each end of row if there have been no eyelets for 4 rows or more. Next row Knit. BO all sts.

Front

Join front and front of sleeves: Note: Cont working eyelet rows as established at sleeve edges. With RS facing, and using working yarn from first sleeve, work first 24 (27, 30, 32, 35) sts of sleeve, pm, k74 (84, 92, 102, 110) front sts, pm, then work rem 24 (27, 30, 32, 35) sts of 2nd sleeve—122 (138, 152, 166, 180) sts. Note: Neck shaping beg before raglan shaping ends; read the foll section all the way through before proceeding. Shape raglan armholes as for back, at the same time, end after 34 (40, 42, 44, 48) armhole rows (including joining row) have been worked and armhole measures about 4¾ (5¾, 6, 6¼, 6¾)" measured at center front—82 (82, 84, 82, 88) sts rem: 12 (13, 13, 11, 12) sleeve sts, 58 (56, 58, 60, 64) front sts. Shape neck: Next row (RS) Cont working raglan armhole

shaping as established, work 31 (31, 32, 31, 33) sts, join new yarn and BO 20 (20, 20, 20, 22) center front sts, work to end—29 (29, 30, 29, 31) sts rem each side. Working each side separately and at the same time, BO 4 sts at each neck edge once, then 3 sts once, then 2 sts once, then dec 1 st at each neck edge every row 2 times—10 (10, 11, 12, 12) sts rem each side after all shaping complete. Work 1 WS row even. Break yarn from right front. Front neck finishing: With RS facing, k10 (10, 11, 12, 12) left front sts, pick up and knit 42 (42, 42, 42, 44) sts evenly along front neck, k10 (10, 11, 12, 12) right front sts—62 (62, 64, 66, 68) sts. Knit 3 rows. BO all sts.

Lace

(27, 30, 32, 35) sts of sleeve, pm, k74 (84, 92, 102, 110) back sts, pm, then work 24 (27, 30, 32, 35) sts on left-hand side (where yarn is not attached) of 2nd sleeve—122 (138, 152, 166, 180) sts. Work back and forth as foll: Next row (WS) Purl. Size 33½" only: Shape raglan armholes: Sleeve dec row (RS) Work to 3 sts before m, k2tog, p1, sl m, p1, knit to 1 st before m, p1, sl m, p1, ssk, work to end—2 sleeve sts dec’d. Next row Purl. Sleeve and body dec row (RS) Work to 3 sts before m, k2tog, p1, sl m, p1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before m, k2tog, p1, sl m, p1, ssk, work to end—4 sts dec’d. Next row Purl. Rep last 4 rows 3 more times—98 sts rem. Work 2 rows even, ending with a WS row. Work Sleeve and body dec row on next row, then every 4th row 3 more times, then every other row 5 times—62 sts rem: 7 sts each sleeve, 48 back sts. Note: Do not make eyelets if they land in last dec row. Next row (WS) Knit. Next row (RS) Knit and make eyelets at each end of row if there have been no eyelets for 4 rows or more. Next row Knit. BO all sts. Sizes 37½ (41½, 45½, 49½)" only: Shape raglan armholes: Dec row (RS) Work to 3 sts before m, k2tog, p1, sl m, p1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before m, k2tog, p1, sl m, p1, ssk, work to end—4 sts dec’d. Rep Dec row every

F inishing

Sew underarm seams. Weave in ends. With dpn, CO 4 sts and work I-cord for 68". Thread I-cord through sleeve eyelets using photo as a guide. Rep for other side. ❤

Julia Farwell-Clay lives in an old white house in Newburyport, Massachusetts, where the books are dusty and the garden overgrown. Check out her other patterns and white-knuckle knitting adventures at www.juliafarwellclay.com.

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Summer14 Knitscene

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8½ (8¾, 8¾, 9½, 9½, 10)"

5¾ (5, 4¼, 3½, 3½, 2¾)"

6¼ (6¾, 7¼, 7½, 8, 8½ )"

❤ ❤✿

A li s o n Gr e e n

page 41

✿ ✿

Lea Pullover

❤✿

✿ ❤❤

Fading Light

12 (11¾, 11¾, 11½, 12¼, 12)"

❤ ❤✿

❤ ❤

C l a s s ic E l it e Ya r n s F i re f l y

front & back

15"

21 (22½, 24, 25½, 27, 28½ )"

around needle; rep from * to last st; k1, wrapping yarn 3 times around needle. Row 2 (WS) K1, dropping all wraps, *sl 8 sts pwise wyb, dropping all wraps (8 elongated sts now on right needle), skipping 4 elongated sts closest to tip of right needle, insert left needle from left to right into next 4 elongated sts, pass these sts over 4 elongated sts closest to needle tip and off the right needle, but keeping them on the left needle, then transfer 4 elongated sts from right needle to left needle, k8 in this crossed order; rep from * to last st; k1, dropping all wraps. Rows 3–6 Knit. Rep Rows 1–6 for patt.

Sweater

Back: With 24" needle, CO 110 (118, 126, 134, 142, 150) sts. Do not join. Work 5 rows in garter st, ending with a WS row. Change to St st and work until piece measures 15" from CO, ending with a WS row. Shape sleeves: Next row (RS) Using the cable method, CO 30 (26, 22, 18, 18, 14) sts, knit to end—140 (144, 148, 152, 160, 164) sts. Next row (WS) CO 30 (26, 22, 18, 18, 14) sts, purl to end—170 (170, 170, 170, 178, 178) sts. Work even until sleeve measures 3½ (4, 4½, 3½, 4, 4½)" from underarm CO, ending with a RS row. Work 5 rows in garter st, ending with a WS row. Work Rows 1–6 of crossed st patt (see Stitches) 1 (1, 1, 2, 2, 2) time(s),

Sizes 42 (45, 48, 51, 54, 57)" bust circumference; shown in size 45"

Yarn Classic Elite Yarns Firefly (75% viscose, 25% linen; 155 yd [142 m]/50 g): • #7795 thistle, 6 (6, 7, 7, 8, 8) skeins Gauge 21 sts and 30 rows = 4" in St st

Tools • Size 6 (4 mm): 16" and 24" circular (cir) needles • Stitch holders • Tapestry needle

See knittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know.

Notes This sweater is worked back and forth in rows in one piece, beginning at the bottom of the back and continuing over the shoulder to the bottom of the front. The sleeves are formed by casting on stitches at each side of the back at the underarm and then binding off the sleeve sts on the front. A circular needle is used to accommodate the large number of stitches.

Stitches Crossed Stitch Pattern: (multiple of 8 sts + 2) Row 1 (RS) K1, wrapping yarn 3 times around needle; *k1, wrapping yarn 4 times

78

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Sizes 29 (33, 36½, 40½, 44, 48)" bust circumference; shown in size 33" Yarn Plymouth Yarn Company Linen Concerto (48% rayon, 42% linen, 10% cotton; 101 yd [92 m]/50 g): • #02 natural (MC), 5 (6, 7, 7, 8, 9) skeins • #06 chambray (CC), 1 skein Gauge 17 sts and 27½ rows = 4" in St st (after blocking) Tools

4¼ (5¼, 6½, 7, 8½, 9½ )" 2¾ (2¾, 2¾, 3, 3, 3)"

2¾ (3¼, 3½, 4, 4¼, 4¾)"

• Size 6 (4 mm): 16" and 24" circular (cir) needles • Size G/6 (4 mm) crochet hook

front

16½ (18¼, 20¼, 22, 24, 26)"

3¼ (3¾, 3¾, 3¾, 4¼, 4¾)" 2¾ (2¾, 2¾, 3, 3, 3)"

back

14½ (16½, 18¼, 20¼, 22, 24)"

P l y m o ut h Ya r n C o mp a ny L i ne n C o nc e r t o

With longer needle and MC, CO 70 (78, 86, 94, 102, 110) sts. Do not join. Knit 4 rows. Change to St st. Work 16 (16, 16, 18, 18, 18) rows even, ending with a WS row. Dec row (RS) K2, ssk, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2—2 sts dec’d. Rep Dec row every 20th (20th, 20th, 22nd, 22nd, 22nd) row 3 more times—62 (70, 78, 86, 94, 102) sts rem. Work 33 rows even, ending with a WS row. Next row (RS) K14 (18, 21, 25, 28, 32), place marker (pm), work Front chart for your size over 34 (34, 36, 36, 38, 38) sts, pm, k14 (18, 21, 25, 28, 32). Work through Row 4 (4, 4, 2, 2, 2) of chart. Shape armholes: Cont in patt, BO 4 (4, 4, 4, 4, 6) sts at beg of next 2 rows, then BO 2 sts at beg of next 4 rows—46 (54, 62, 70, 78, 82) sts rem. Dec row (RS) K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—2 sts dec’d. Rep Dec row every other

6¾ (7¼, 7½, 8¼, 8¾, 9)"

page 41

Front

17 (17, 17, 18, 18, 18)"

Em m a We l f or d

Sunspot Tank

5¾ (5¾, 5¾, 6, 6, 6)"

✿ ✿

❤✿

✿ ❤❤

This tank is worked back and forth in separate pieces and seamed. The row gauge of the Linen Concerto will change significantly after blocking. In the pattern, row counts are given instead of length measurements. The schematic measurements reflect the measurements of the pieces after blocking. When working intarsia, bring new yarn under old yarn at each color change to twist yarns and avoid holes. Work each motif with a separate ball of contrast color (CC) yarn. Extra care may need to be taken when weaving in intarsia ends or when blocking to ensure the image is not distorted.

16½ (18¼, 20¼, 22, 24, 26)" Summer14 Knitscene

078_089_KSsmmr14.indd 79

Fading Light

❤ ❤✿

14½ (16½, 18¼, 20¼, 22, 24)"

Alison Green (formerly Alison Green Will) is a knit designer, knitting teacher, and technical editor living in Haverhill, Massachusetts. She has designed for numerous yarn companies and you can find her patterns on Ravelry or at www.AlisonGreenWill.com.

Notes

17 (17, 17, 18, 18, 18)"

Sleeve edging: With RS facing and 16" needle, pick up and knit 19 (22, 26, 19, 22, 26) sts along St st portion of sleeve edge, then *pick up and knit 3 sts (1 st in each garter ridge), [insert right needle under both legs of elongated st and k1, then insert right needle under only 1 leg of elongated st and k1] 2 times; rep from * 3 (3, 3, 5, 5, 5) more times, pick up and knit 3 sts (1 st in each garter ridge), and 19 (22, 26, 19, 22, 26) sts in St st section—69 (75, 83, 83, 89, 97) sts. Knit 5 rows. Loosely BO all sts. Neck edging: Place 44 (46, 46, 50, 50, 52) held back neck sts on 16" needle, then remove waste yarn from provisional CO and place 44 (46, 46, 50, 50, 52) front neck sts on same needle—88 (92, 92, 100, 100, 104) sts. With RS facing, join yarn and knit back sts, pick up and knit 1 st in garter ridge on left shoulder, knit front sts, pick up and knit 1 st in garter ridge on right shoulder—90 (94, 94, 102, 102, 106) sts. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. [Purl 1 rnd, knit 1 rnd] 2 times, purl 1 rnd. Loosely BO all sts. Block sweater. Sew side and sleeve seams. Weave in ends. ❤

• Markers (m) • Stitch holders • Tapestry needle

❤ ❤✿

See knittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know.

6¾ (7¼, 7½, 8¼, 8¾, 9)"

F inishing

❤ ❤

then work Rows 1 and 2 once more. Shape neck: Next row (RS) K63 (62, 62, 60, 64, 63), place next 44 (46, 46, 50, 50, 52) sts on holder for neck, place rem 63 (62, 62, 60, 64, 63) sts on 2nd holder for left shoulder. Right shoulder: Next row (WS) Knit. Next row (RS) Knit, do not break yarn. Place sts on holder. Left shoulder: Return 63 (62, 62, 60, 64, 63) left shoulder sts to needle. With RS facing, rejoin yarn. Next row (RS) Knit. Next row (WS) Knit, break yarn. Front: With yarn attached to right neck edge and RS facing, using a provisional method, CO 44 (46, 46, 50, 50, 52) sts, knit to end of left shoulder—170 (170, 170, 170, 178, 178) sts. Next row (WS) Knit. Work Rows 1–6 of crossed st patt 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3) times. Work in St st for 3½ (4, 4½, 3½, 4, 4½)" ending with a WS row. Shape sleeves: BO 30 (26, 22, 18, 18, 14) sts at beg of next 2 rows—110 (118, 126, 134, 142, 150) sts rem. Work even until piece measures 14¼" from sleeve BO, ending with a RS row. Work 5 rows in garter st. Loosely BO all sts.

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Front Sizes 29 (33)" 29 27

Fading Light

25 23 21

k on RS, p on WS with MC

19 17

k on RS, p on WS with CC

15 13

Strap

11 9

7

7

5

5

3

3 1

1 34 sts

12 sts

Front Sizes 361⁄2 (401⁄2)"

Back

29 27

49

25

47

23

45

21

43

19

41

17

39

15

37

13

35

11

33

9

31

7

29

5

27

3

25

1

23

36 sts

21 19

Front Sizes 44 (48)" 29

17 27 15 25 13 23 11 21 9 19 7 17 5 15 3 13 1 16 sts

11 9 7 5 3 1 38 sts

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Sew side seams, leaving 2" at lower edge unsewn for vents. Armhole edging: With MC and shorter needle, pick up and knit 1 st for every st and 2 sts for every 3 rows around armhole, pm and join in the rnd. Knit 1 rnd. Purl 1 rnd. BO all sts. Neck edging: With CC, work single crochet (sc) around neck edge (1 sc in every st). Weave in ends. ❤

✿ ❤ ❤

Notes This tank is worked in the round from the lower edge to the underarm, and then the front and back are worked separately back and forth. Work w it h b ot h ya r n s held t o get her throughout.

Body

With 1 strand each A and B held tog (see Notes) and 24" needle, CO 90 (102, 108, 114, 120, 132) sts, place marker (pm) for side, CO 90 (102, 108, 114, 120, 132) sts—180 (204, 216, 228, 240, 264) sts. Pm and join in the rnd. Purl 1 rnd. Work Rnds 1–3 of Chart A. Next rnd (Rnd 4 of chart) Work to 1 st before m, sl 1 st to right needle, remove m, sl st back to left needle, pm for new beg-of-rnd. Work Rnds 5–8 of Chart A. Rep Rnds 1–8 of Chart A 3knit (3, 3, 3, 4, 4) more times, moving m on Rnd 4 as indicated. Sizes 32¾ (43¾, 48)" only: yo Work Rnd 1 of Chart A—piece measures about 4 (5, 5)" from CO. Next rnd Work Rnd 2 of Chart B over 13 (25,ssk 25) sts, k65 (71, 83),

❤ ❤✿ ✿

Back

F inishing

Block pieces to measurements. Join shoulder seams, using three-needle BO.

❤ ❤✿

✿ ✿

❤✿

Bokeh Tank

A my C hr i s t o f f e r s page 4 2

✿ ❤❤

knit

k2tog

yo

sl 1 kwise, k2tog, psso

ssk

pattern repeat

With longer needle and MC, CO 70 (78, 86, 94, 102, 110) sts. Do not join. Knit 4 rows. Change to St st. Work 16 (16, 16, 18, 18, 18) rows, ending with a WS row. Dec row (RS) K2, ssk, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2—2 sts dec’d. Rep Dec row every 20th (20th, 20th, 22nd, 22nd, 22nd) row 3 more times—62 (70, 78, 86, 94, 102) sts rem. Work 11 (13, 15, 17, 19, 19) rows even, ending with a WS row. Next row (RS) K23 (27, 31, 35, 39, 43), pm, work Back chart over 16 sts, k23 (27, 31, 35, 39, 43). Work through Row 26 (24, 22, 18, 16, 16) of chart. Shape armholes: BO 4 sts at beg of next 2 (4, 6, 6, 8, 10) rows, then BO 2 sts at beg of next 4 (4, 4, 6, 6, 8) rows—46 (46, 46, 50, 50, 46) sts rem. Dec row (RS) K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—2 sts dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 10 (10, 10, 11, 11, 9) more times, changing to MC only when chart is complete—24 (24, 24, 26, 26, 26) sts rem. Work 3 rows even, ending with a WS row. Inc row (RS) K1, M1R, work to last st, M1L, k1—2 sts inc’d. Rep Inc row every RS row 6 (7, 7, 7, 8, 9) more times—38 (40, 40, 42, 44, 46) sts. Shape neck: Next row (WS) P12 (12, 12, 13, 13, 13), join 2nd ball of yarn and BO 14 (16, 16, 16, 18, 20) sts, purl to end—12 (12, 12, 13, 13, 13) sts rem each side. Working both sides separately, knit 1 row, purl 1 row. Place all sts on holder.

Chart A

Chart B

k2tog

7

7

sl 1 kwise, k2tog, psso 5

5

*4 3

S h i b u i K n it s L i ne n

3

pattern repeat

1

1

6 st repeat

S h i b u i K n it s S i l k C l o u d

6 st repeat

*Work as given in directions

Chart C

Sizes 32¾ (37, 39¼, 41½, 43¾, 48)" bust circumference; shown in size 32¾" Yarn Shibui Knits Linen (100% linen; 246 yd [225 m]/50 g): • sidewalk (A), 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4) skeins Shibui Knits Silk Cloud (60% kid mohair, 40% silk; 330 yd [300 m]/25 g): • ash (B), 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3) skeins Gauge 22 sts and 27 rows = 4" in St st

7 5 3 1 6 st repeat

Chart D

Tools • Size 5 (3.75 mm): 24" and 16" circular (cir) needles • Markers (m) • Stitch holders • Tapestry needle

7 5 *4 3 1 6 st repeat

Summer14 Knitscene

078_089_KSsmmr14.indd 81

Fading Light

See knittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know.

Emma Welford can be found online at www.emmawelford.com. ✿

row 1 (3, 4, 6, 7, 7) more time(s)—42 (46, 52, 56, 62, 66) sts rem. Work through Row 29 of chart, removing m. Break CC and cont with MC only. Work 3 rows even, ending with a WS row. Shape neck: Next row (RS) Work Strap chart over 12 sts, then with MC, k3 (5, 7, 9, 11, 13) and place these 15 (17, 19, 21, 23, 25) sts on holder for left shoulder, BO 12 (12, 14, 14, 16, 16) sts, k3 (5, 7, 9, 11, 13), join 2nd ball of CC and work Strap chart over 12 sts—15 (17, 19, 21, 23, 25) sts rem for right shoulder. Right shoulder: Work 1 WS row. Dec row K1, ssk, work to end—1 st dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 2 (4, 6, 7, 9, 11) more times, changing to MC only when chart is complete—12 (12, 12, 13, 13, 13) sts rem. Work 12 (11, 9, 10, 10, 8) rows even. Place all sts on holder. Left shoulder: Return 15 (17, 19, 21, 23, 25) left shoulder sts to needle and with WS facing, rejoin yarn. Work 1 WS row. Dec row (RS) Work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—1 st dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 2 (4, 6, 7, 9, 11) more times—12 (12, 12, 13, 13, 13) sts rem. Work 12 (11, 9, 10, 10, 8) rows even. Place all sts on holder.

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body

32¾ (37, 39¼, 41½, 43¾, 48)"

8 (8¼, 8½, 8¾, 9, 9¼)"

1¼"

14 (14½, 14½, 14½, 15, 15)"

Fading Light

2"

6¾ (6¾, 7, 7, 7½, 8¼)" 2¾ (3½, 3½, 3¾, 3¾, 4)"

work Rnd 2 of Chart C over 25 (49, 49) sts, k65 (71, 83), work Rnd 2 of Chart D over 12 (24, 24) sts. Sizes 37 (39¼, 41½)" only: Work Rnds 1–5 of Chart A—piece measures about 4½" from CO. Next rnd Work Rnd 6 of Chart B over 19 sts, k65 (71, 77), work Rnd 6 of Chart C over 37 sts, k65 (71, 77), work Rnd 6 of Chart D over 18 sts. All sizes: Cont in patt as established, moving m on Rnd 4 of Chart D as before, until piece measures 14 (14½, 14½, 14½, 15, 15)" from CO, ending with Rnd 6 (2, 2, 2, 6, 6) of charts and 5 (6, 7, 7, 8, 9) sts before end of rnd. Divide for front and back: BO 11 (13, 15, 15, 17, 19) sts, removing m, knit to 5 (6, 7, 7, 8, 9) sts before side m and place 79 (89, 93, 99, 103, 113) sts just knit on holder for front, BO 11 (13, 15, 15, 17, 19) sts, removing m, knit to end—79 (89, 93, 99, 103, 113) sts rem for back.

Short-row 5 Knit to end, working wraps tog with wrapped sts. Purl 1 WS row, break yarn and place all sts on holder. Right shoulder: Return 25 (29, 29, 30, 31, 32) held right shoulder sts to needle and with WS facing, rejoin yarn. Purl 1 row, knit 1 row. At beg of WS rows, BO 5 sts once, then 3 sts once, then 2 sts once—15 (19, 19, 20, 21, 22) sts rem. Knit 1 RS row. Shape shoulder using short-rows as foll: Short-row 1 (WS) Purl to last 5 (6, 6, 7, 7, 7) sts, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 2 Knit to end. Short-row 3 Purl to last 10 (12, 12, 14, 14, 14) sts, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 4 Knit to end. Short-row 5 Purl to end, working wraps tog with wrapped sts. Break yarn and place all sts on holder.

Front

Return 79 (89, 93, 99, 103, 113) held front sts to needle and with WS facing, rejoin yarn. Purl 1 WS row. Shape armholes: Dec row (RS) K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1—2 sts dec’d. Rep Dec row every other row 5 (6, 7, 9, 9, 11) more times—67 (75, 77, 79, 83, 89) sts rem. Work even until armhole measures 5½ (5¾, 6, 6¼, 6½, 6¾)", ending with a WS row. Shape neck: Next row (RS) K30 (34, 34, 35, 36, 37) and place these sts on holder for left shoulder, BO 7 (7, 9, 9, 11, 15) sts, knit to end—30 (34, 34, 35, 36, 37) sts rem for right shoulder. Right shoulder: Work 1 WS row. At beg of RS rows, BO 5 sts 2 times, then 3 sts once, then 2 sts once—15 (19, 19, 20, 21, 22) sts rem. Work even until

armhole measures 7¾ (8, 8¼, 8½, 8¾, 9)", ending with a WS row. Shape shoulder using short-rows as foll: Short-row 1 (RS) Knit to last 5 (6, 6, 7, 7, 7) sts, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 2 Purl to end. Short-row 3 Knit to last 10 (12, 12, 14, 14, 14) sts, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 4 Purl to end. Short-row 5 Knit to end, working wraps tog with wrapped sts. Purl 1 WS row, break yarn and place all sts on holder. Left shoulder: Return 30 (34, 34, 35, 36, 37) held left shoulder sts to needle and with WS facing, rejoin yarn. Purl 1 row, knit 1 row. At beg of WS rows, BO 5 sts 2 times, then 3 sts once, then 2 sts once—15 (19, 19, 20, 21, 22) sts rem. Work even until armhole measures 7¾ (8, 8¼, 8½, 8¾, 9)", ending with a RS row. Shape shoulder using short-rows as foll: Short-row 1 (WS) Purl to last 5 (6, 6, 7, 7, 7) sts, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 2 Knit to end. Short-row 3 Purl to last 10 (12, 12, 14, 14, 14) sts, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 4 Knit to end. Short-row 5 Purl to end, working wraps tog with wrapped sts. Break yarn and place all sts on holder.

F inishing

Join shoulders, using three-needle BO. Neck edging: With 16" needle and RS facing, beg at left shoulder, pick up and knit 10 sts along left front neck, 37 (37, 39, 39, 41, 41) sts in BO sts, 10 sts along right front neck, 5 sts along right back neck, 37 (37, 39,

Back

Next row (WS) Purl. Shape armholes: Dec row (RS) K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1—2 sts dec’d. Rep Dec row every other row 5 (6, 7, 9, 9, 11) more times—67 (75, 77, 79, 83, 89) sts rem. Work even until armhole measures 6½ (6¾, 7, 7¼, 7½, 7¾)", ending with a WS row. Shape neck: Next row (RS) K25 (29, 29, 30, 31, 32) and place these sts on holder for right shoulder, BO 17 (17, 19, 19, 21, 25) sts, knit to end—25 (29, 29, 30, 31, 32) sts rem for left shoulder. Left shoulder: Work 1 WS row. At beg of RS rows, BO 5 sts once, then 3 sts once, then 2 sts once—15 (19, 19, 20, 21, 22) sts rem. Work 1 WS row. Shape shoulder using short-rows as foll: Short-row 1 (RS) Knit to last 5 (6, 6, 7, 7, 7) sts, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 2 Purl to end. Short-row 3 Knit to last 10 (12, 12, 14, 14, 14) sts, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 4 Purl to end.

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Amy Christoffers lives in Vermont and blogs at www.savoryknitting.com.

❤ ❤✿

M o o n El d r i d g e page 4 3

❤ ❤✿

K r i s t in e B y r n e s page 4 2

✿ ✿

Datura Kerchief

❤✿

✿ ❤❤

F i b r a N at u r a F l a x

Size 18½" wide and 13" long Yarn FibraNatura Flax (100% linen; 137 yd [125 m]/50 g): • #04 pearl, 1 skein

Yarn distributed by Universal Yarn

Gauge 20 sts and 36 rows = 4" in Eyelet patt on larger needles

Tools • Size 6 (4 mm) needles • Size 5 (3.75 mm): set of double-pointed needles (dpn) • Tapestry needle

See knittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know.

Notes This kerchief is worked from the widest point to the tip.

Kristine Byrnes lives on a small sheep farm in New Jersey, and can be found on Ravelry as winterspastkris.

✿ ✿

Gambeson Tunic

F inishing

I-cord ties and front edging: With dpn, CO 4 sts. Work I-cord for 6", then with RS of kerchief facing, *pick up and knit 1 st along CO edge—5 sts. Slide 5 sts to other end of needle, k3, k2tog. Rep from * across CO edge, then work I-cord for 6". BO all sts. Weave in ends. Block. If desired, tack side edges tog 5½" from I-cord ties. ❤

❤✿

✿ ❤❤

With larger needles, CO 91 sts. Work Rows 1–4 of eyelet patt (see Stitches) 26 times—13 sts rem. Work Rows 1–3 once—11 sts rem. Next row (WS) P1, sl 2, ssk, yo, k1, k2tog, sl 2, p1—10 sts rem. Knit 1 row. Next row (WS) P1, sl 2, k4, sl 2, p1. Next row K4, k2tog, k4—9 sts rem. Next row P1, sl 1, p2tog, k1, p2tog, sl 1, p1—7 sts rem. Knit 1 row. Next row P1, sl 1, p3tog, sl 1, p1—5 sts rem. Knit 1 row. Next row P1, p3tog, p1—3 sts rem. Next row S1 kwise, k2tog, psso—1 st rem. Fasten off last st.

Body

❤ ❤✿

H a nd M a i de n  L i no

Sizes 31½ (33, 34½, 36½, 38)" bust circumference; shown in size 33" Yarn Hand Maiden Lino (65% silk, 35% linen; 875 yd [800 m]/100 g): • stardust, 2 skeins Yarn distributed by Fleece Artist Gauge 26 sts and 38 rows = 4" in St st Tools • Size 2 (2.75 mm): straight and 16" circular (cir) needles • Markers (m) • Tapestry needle

See knittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know.

Notes This tunic is worked back and forth in rows from the bottom front, up over the shoulders to the bottom back. The hem is asymmetrical, with a 3" slit on the right. At beginning of full rows, slip first stitch knitwise with yarn in back on right-side rows and purlwise with yarn in front on wrong-side rows.

Stitches Make V (MV): Insert right needle from front to back into st 5 or 7 rows below next st on left needle, as indicated, then from back to front through st on left needle, Summer14 Knitscene

078_089_KSsmmr14.indd 83

❤ ❤

❤ ❤✿

Fading Light

Eyelet Pattern: (multiple of 3 sts + 1) Note: The total st count will dec by 3 sts after every 4-row rep. Row 1 (RS) Knit. Row 2 P1, sl 2 (see Notes), knit to last 3 sts, sl 2, p1. Row 3 K4, *k2tog, k1; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3. Row 4 P1, sl 2, ssk, *yo, k2; rep from * to last 6 sts, yo, k1, k2tog, sl 2, p1. Rep Rows 1–4 for patt.

❤ ❤ ✿

Stitches

Slip stitches purlwise with yarn in front.

39, 41, 41) sts in BO sts, and 5 sts along left back neck—104 (104, 108, 108, 112, 120) sts. Join in the rnd and BO all sts pwise. Armhole edging: With 16" needle and RS facing, beg at center of underarm and pick up and knit 109 (115, 121, 123, 129, 131) sts evenly around armhole. Join in the rnd and BO all sts pwise. Weave in ends. ❤

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3¾ (4, 4½, 4½, 5)"

8 (8, 9, 9, 10)"

21¼ (22¾, 22¼, 23¼, 22¼)"

Fading Light

8¼ (8¼, 8¼, 9, 9)"

body

15¾ (16½, 17¼, 18¼, 19)"

wrap yarn around right needle and draw new st through st on left needle and st 5 or 7 rows below, drop st from left needle. Short-row Pattern A1: Foundation row (RS) Knit. Short-row 1 (WS) Sl 1, p11 (9, 12, 10, 13), wrap next st, turn. Short-row 2 (RS) Knit to end. Short-row 3 Sl 1, purl to wrapped st, purl wrap tog with wrapped st, p9, wrap next st, turn. Rep last 2 short-rows 8 (9, 9, 10, 10) more times—11 (9, 12, 10, 13) sts after last wrapped st. Next row (RS) Knit to end. Next row Sl 1, purl to end, working rem wrap tog with wrapped st. Next row Knit.

times—5 (5, 5, 8, 11) sts after last wrapped st. Next row (RS) Knit to end. Next row Sl 1, purl to end, working rem wrap tog with wrapped st. Next row Knit. Short-row Pattern B2: Foundation row (WS) Purl. Short-row 1 (RS) Sl 1, k5 (5, 5, 8, 11), wrap next st, turn. Short-row 2 (WS) Purl to end. Short-row 3 Sl 1, knit to wrapped st, knit wrap tog with wrapped st, k5, wrap next st, turn. Rep last 2 short-rows 16 (17, 18, 18, 18) more times—5 (5, 5, 8, 11) sts after last wrapped st. Next row (WS) Purl to end. Next row Sl 1, knit to end, working rem wrap tog with wrapped st. Next row Purl.

Body

Front hem: CO 114 (120, 126, 132, 138) sts. Knit 7 rows. Next row (RS) *K5, MV 7 rows below (see Stitches); rep from * to last 6 sts, k6. Knit 1 WS row. Work short-row patt A1 (see Stitches). [Knit 1 WS row, purl 1 RS row] 2 times. Work short-row patt A2 (see Stitches). [Purl 1 RS row, knit 1 WS row] 2 times. Work short-row patt B1 (see Stitches). [Knit 1 WS row, purl 1 RS row] 2 times. Work short-row patt B2 (see Stitches). [Purl 1 RS row, knit 1 WS row] 2 times. Work short-row patt A1. [Knit 1 WS

row, purl 1 RS row] 2 times. Work short-row patt A2. [Purl 1 RS row, knit 1 WS row] 2 times. Work short-row patt A1. [Knit 1 WS row, purl 1 RS row] 2 times. Purl 1 WS row. Work short-row patt B1. [Knit 1 WS row, purl 1 RS row] 2 times. Work short-row patt B2. [Purl 1 RS row, knit 1 WS row] 2 times. Work short-row patt A1. [Knit 1 WS row, purl 1 RS row] 2 times. Work short-row patt A2. [Purl 1 RS row, knit 1 WS row] 2 times. Work short-row patt B1. [Knit 1 WS row, purl 1 RS row] 2 times. Work short-row patt B2. Knit 6 rows, ending with a WS row. Shape neck: Next row (RS) K27 (30, 33, 33, 36), *k5, MV 5 rows below; rep from * 8 (8, 8, 9, 9) more times, knit to end. Next row (WS) K27 (30, 33, 33, 36), BO 60 (60, 60, 66, 66) sts, knit to end. Back: Next row (RS) K27 (30, 33, 33, 36), then, using the backward-loop method, CO 60 (60, 60, 66, 66) sts, knit to end. Knit 7 rows, ending with a WS row. Next row (RS) K27 (30, 33, 33, 36), *k5, MV 7 rows below; rep from * 8 (8, 8, 9, 9) more times, knit to end. Work short-row patt B2. [Purl 1 RS row, knit 1 WS row] 2 times. Work short-row patt B1. [Knit 1 WS row, purl 1 RS row] 2 times. Work short-row patt A2. [Purl 1 RS row, knit 1 WS row] 2 times. Work short-row patt A1. [Knit 1 WS row, purl 1 RS row] 2 times. Work short-row patt B2. [Purl 1 RS row, knit 1 WS row] 2 times. Work short-row patt B1.

Short-row Pattern A2: Foundation row (WS) Purl. Short-row 1 (RS) Sl 1, k11 (9, 12, 10, 13), wrap next st, turn. Short-row 2 (WS) Purl to end. Short-row 3 Sl 1, knit to wrapped st, knit wrap tog with wrapped st, k9, wrap next st, turn. Rep last 2 short-rows 8 (9, 9, 10, 10) more times—11 (9, 12, 10, 13) sts after last wrapped st. Next row (WS) Purl to end. Next row Sl 1, knit to end, working rem wrap tog with wrapped st. Next row Purl. Short-row Pattern B1: Foundation row (RS) Knit. Short-row 1 (WS) Sl 1, p5 (5, 5, 8, 11), wrap next st, turn. Short-row 2 (RS) Knit to end. Short-row 3 Sl 1, purl to wrapped st, purl wrap tog with wrapped st, p5, wrap next st, turn. Rep last 2 short-rows 16 (17, 18, 18, 18) more

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• Stitch holders • Tapestry needle

❤ ❤✿ ✿

See knittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know.

Notes The side tie is worked back and forth and then the body is joined and worked in one piece to the armholes. The upper front and back are worked separately back and forth. Slip stitches purlwise with yarn in front.

Stitches

F inishing

Moon Eldridge spends her time designing projects, playing the piano, and managing content for Knit Life, a Chinese knitting community website.

Seed Stitch: (odd number of sts) Row 1 (RS) *K1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1. Row 2 (WS) Rep Row 1. Rep Rows 1 and 2 for patt.

❤ ❤✿

S a c hiko B ur gin page 4 5

✿ ✿

Dowlas Tee

❤✿

✿ ❤❤

C l au d i a H a nd P a i nt e d Ya r n s L i ne n

Sizes 37 (41, 45, 49, 53, 57)" bust circumference; shown in size 41" Yarn Claudia Hand Painted Yarns Linen (100% linen; 270 yd [247 m]/100 g]): • mushroom hunting (MC), 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5) skeins • peony (CC), 1 skein Gauge 22 sts and 28 rows = 4" in St st on larger needles Tools • Size 6 (4 mm): 32" circular (cir) needle • Size 4 (3.5 mm): 32" cir needle and set of double-pointed needles (dpn) • Markers (m)

Fold tunic in half at shoulders. Sew left side seam from bottom edge to 8 (8, 9, 9, 10)" below shoulder. Beg 3" above bottom edge, sew right side seam to 8 (8, 9, 9, 10)" below shoulder. Sleeve: With RS facing and 16" cir needle, beg at underarm, pick up and knit 114 (114, 126, 126, 136) sts evenly spaced around armhole. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. [Knit 1 rnd, purl 1 rnd] 2 times. First half: Next row (RS) K57 (57, 63, 63, 68), pm for shoulder slit, turn. Leave rem sts on needle. Short-row 1 (WS) Sl 1, p7 (7, 6, 6, 9), wrap next st, turn. Short-row 2 (RS) Knit to m, turn. Short-row 3 Sl 1, purl to wrapped st, purl wrap tog with wrapped  st, p7, wrap next st, turn. Rep last 2 short-rows 4 (4, 5, 5, 5) more times—8 (8, 7, 7, 9) sts after last wrapped st. Next row (RS) Knit to m, turn. Next row Sl 1, purl to wrapped st, purl wrap tog with wrapped st, purl to end, do not turn, purl to shoulder slit m, turn. Second half: Short-row 1 (RS) Sl 1, k7 (7, 6, 6, 9), wrap next st, turn. Short-row 2 (WS) Purl to m, turn. Short-row 3 Sl 1, knit to wrapped st, knit wrap tog with wrapped  st, k7, wrap next st, turn. Rep last 2 short-rows 4 (4, 5, 5, 5) more times—8 (8, 7, 7, 9) sts after last wrapped st. Next row (WS) Purl to m, turn. Next row (RS) Sl 1, knit to wrapped st, knit wrap tog with wrapped st, knit to end, do not turn, knit to shoulder slit m, turn. Working back and forth over all sts, knit 6 rows, ending with a RS row. With WS facing, BO all sts. Weave in ends. Block to measurements. ❤

Fading Light

❤ ❤ ✿

[Knit 1 WS row, purl 1 RS row] 2 times. Purl 1 WS row. Work short-row patt A1. [Knit 1 WS row, purl 1 RS row] 2 times. Work short-row patt A2. [Purl 1 RS row, knit 1 WS row] 2 times. Work short-row patt A1. [Knit 1 WS row, purl 1 RS row] 2 times. Work short-row patt B2. [Purl 1 RS row, knit 1 WS row] 2 times. Work short-row patt B1. [Knit 1 WS row, purl 1 RS row] 2 times. Work short-row patt A2. [Purl 1 RS row, knit 1 WS row] 2 times. Work short-row patt A1. Knit 7 rows, ending with a WS row. Next row (RS) *K5, MV 7 rows below; rep from * to last 6 sts, k6. BO all sts.

Pocket Lining

With CC and larger needle, CO 19 sts. Work in St st for 3½". Break yarn. Place sts on holder.

Body

With MC and smaller cir needle, CO 275 (297, 319, 341, 363, 385) sts. Do not join. Work in seed st (see Stitches) for 2 rows. Dec row (RS) Ssk, work in patt as established to end—1 st dec’d. Dec row (WS) P2tog, work in patt as established to end—1 st dec’d. Rep last 2 rows 7 more times—259 (281, 303, 325, 347, 369) sts rem. Next row (RS) BO 39 sts in patt, work in patt to end—220 (242, 264, 286, 308, 330) sts rem. Next row (WS) BO 39 sts in patt, change to larger needle, purl to end—181 (203, 225, 247, 269, 291) sts rem. Dec row (RS) Sl 1 (see Notes), ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—2 sts dec’d. Next row Sl 1, purl to end. Rep last 2 rows 3 more times—173 (195, 217, 239, 261, 283) sts rem. Next row (RS) Sl 1, knit to end. Next row Sl 1, purl to end. Inc row (RS) Sl 1, M1R, knit to last st, M1L, k1—2 sts inc’d. Next row

4¼ (5¼, 6¼, 7¼, 8¼, 9¼)" 2¼"

6½ (6½, 6¾, 7, 7½, 8)"

10"

body

37 (41, 45, 49, 53, 57)" 12 (12, 12½, 12½, 13, 13)"

33 (37, 41, 45, 49, 53)" Summer14 Knitscene

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Front Fading Light

Return 102 (113, 124, 135, 146, 157) held front sts to larger needle. With RS facing, rejoin MC. Sizes 37 (45, 53)" only: Next row (RS) Knit to last 2 sts, k2tog—101 (123, 145) sts rem. Sizes 41 (49, 57)" only: Next row (RS) Knit. All sizes: Work even until armhole measures 2 (2, 2½, 2¾, 3, 3)", ending with a WS row. Place pocket: Next row (RS) K27, BO 19 sts, knit to end. Next row (WS) Purl to BO sts, then with WS facing, p19 pocket lining sts from holder, purl to end. Complete as for back through shoulder shaping. Break MC. Next row (RS) With CC, BO 23 (29, 34, 40, 45, 51) sts of left shoulder, break yarn, leaving 10" tail. With WS facing and CC, BO 23 (29, 34, 40, 45, 51) sts of right shoulder pwise. Break yarn, leaving 10" tail. Place center 55 sts on holder.

F inishing

Sl 1, purl to end. Rep last 2 rows 2 more times—179 (201, 223, 245, 267, 289) sts. Joining row (RS) K16, place marker (pm), k90 (101, 112, 123, 134, 145), pm, knit to end, do not turn, using the backward-loop method, CO 1 st, join in the rnd, knit to first m (beg-of-rnd m)—180 (202, 224, 246, 268, 290) sts: 90 (101, 112, 123, 134 145) sts each for front and back. Inc rnd *K2, M1R, knit to 2 sts before m, M1L, k2, sl m; rep from * once more—4 sts inc’d. Rep Inc rnd every 6th rnd 5 more times—204 (226, 248, 270, 292, 314) sts: 102 (113, 124, 135, 146, 157) sts each for front and back. Work even until piece measures 12 (12, 12½, 12½, 13, 13)" from CO. Divide for front and back: Sizes 37 (45, 53)" only: Next row (RS) Remove rnd m, knit to 2 sts before next m, k2tog, remove m, place next 102 (124, 146) sts on holder for front—101 (123, 145) sts rem for back. Sizes 41 (49, 57)" only: Next row (RS) Remove rnd m, knit to next m, remove m, place next 113 (135, 157) sts on holder for front—113 (135, 157) sts rem for back.

Back

Work even until armhole measures 6½ (6½, 6¾, 7, 7½, 8)", ending with a WS row. Shape shoulders using short-rows: Short-row 1 (RS) Knit to last 3 (4, 5, 6, 7, 8) sts, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 2 (WS) Purl to last 3 (4, 5, 6, 7, 8) sts, wrap next st, turn.

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Short-row 3 Knit to 3 (4, 5, 6, 7, 8) sts before previously wrapped st, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 4 Purl to 3 (4, 5, 6, 7, 8) sts before previously wrapped st, wrap next st, turn. Short-rows 5–14 (5–14, 5–12, 5–12, 5–10, 5–10) Rep last 2 short-rows 5 (5, 4, 4, 3, 3) times. Short-row 15 (15, 13, 13, 11, 11) Knit to 2 (1, 2, 2, 4, 4) sts before previously wrapped st, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 16 (16, 14, 14, 12, 12) Purl to 2 (1, 2, 2, 4, 4) sts before previously wrapped st, wrap next st, turn. Sizes 45 (49, 53, 57)" only: Short-rows 15–16 (15–16, 13–14, 13–14) Rep Short-rows 13–14 (13–14, 11–12, 11–12) once more. Sizes 53 (57)" only: Short-row 15 Knit to 2 (3) sts before previously wrapped st, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 16 Purl to 2 (3) sts before previously wrapped st, wrap next st, turn. All sizes: Next row (RS) Knit to end, working wraps tog with wrapped sts. Next row Purl to end, working rem wraps tog with wrapped sts. Break MC. Next row (RS) With CC, BO 23 (29, 34, 40, 45, 51) sts of right shoulder, break yarn, leaving 10" tail. With WS facing and CC, BO 23 (29, 34, 40, 45, 51) sts of left shoulder pwise. Break yarn, leaving 10" tail. Place center 55 sts on holder.

With CC and WS tog, sew shoulder seams below BO edge so that contrasting BO edge is visible on RS of garment. Neck edging: Place 55 held front neck sts and 55 held back neck sts onto dpn—110 sts. Rejoin MC at left shoulder and pick up and knit 1 st in shoulder seam—111 sts. Pm and join in the rnd. Rnd 1 *K1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1. Rnd 2 *P1, k1; rep from * to last st, p1. Rep Rnds 1 and 2 once more. BO all sts in patt. Armhole edging: With dpn, MC and RS facing, beg at underarm and pick up and knit 39 (39, 41, 43, 45, 47) sts along armhole to shoulder seam, pm, then 39 (39, 41, 43, 45, 47) sts along armhole to underarm—78 (78, 82, 86, 90, 94) sts. Pm and join in the rnd. Rnd 1 *K1, p1; rep from * to 3 sts before m, k1, k2tog, sl m, ssk, **k1, p1; rep from ** to last st, k1—38 (38, 40, 42, 44, 46) sts rem each side. Rnd 2 *P1, k1; rep from * to m, sl m, **k1, p1; rep from ** to end. Rnd 3 *K1, p1; rep from * to 2 sts before m, k2tog, sl m, ssk, **p1, k1; rep from ** to end—37 (37, 39, 41, 43, 45) sts rem each side. Rnd 4 *P1, k1; rep from * to 1 st before m, k1, sl m, k1, **k1, p1; rep from ** to end. BO all sts in patt. With MC, carefully sew down pocket. Weave in ends, block to measurements. ❤

Sachiko Burgin works at her LYS in Toronto, Canada. She sometimes blogs at www.sachikoburgin.blogspot.ca.

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resource guide/ premier classifieds

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Get your FREE Knitting Daily .com/app app at: *Apple, iPad, iPhone, iPod touch, and iTunes are trademarks of Apple Inc., registered in the U.S. and other countries. App Store is a service mark of Apple Inc. Non-US residents: if the above link does not work for you, feel free to browse our selection of Apps from within the Apple App Store itself by searching for “Interweave”.

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Fading Light

pensate for the gauge difference. The neck edge is shaped with short rows and stitches are increased during the neck edging pick-up to compensate for gauge difference. Slip stitches at beginning of rows purlwise with yarn in front.

❤ ❤✿

❤ ❤

Stitches K1b: Knit into st in row below next st on left needle, drop st from left needle. Fisherman’s Rib: (odd number of sts) Row 1 (RS) Sl 1 (see Notes), *p1, k1b; rep from * to last 2 sts, p1, k1. Row 2 Sl 1, *k1b, p1; rep from * to end. Rep Rows 1 and 2 for patt.

Body ❤ ❤✿

Bristol Iv y page 4 5

✿ ✿

Linum Tee

✿ ❤❤

Q u i nc e & C o S p a r ro w

Sizes 38 (43, 48, 53, 58, 63¼)" bust circumference; shown in size 38"

Yarn Quince & Co Sparrow (100% linen; 168 yd [154 m]/50 g): • fen, 4 (5, 5, 6, 6, 7) skeins Gauge 19 sts and 22 rows = 4" in St st on larger needle; 13½ sts and 34 rows = 4" in Fisherman’s Rib on larger needles.

Tools • Size 5 (3.75 mm): 32" circular (cir) needle • Size 6 (4 mm): 32" cir needle and set of double-pointed needles (dpn) • Markers (m) • Stitch holders • Spare size 6 (4 mm) or smaller needle • Tapestry needle

See knittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know.

Notes: This tee is worked in the round from the lower edge to the underarm, then the fronts and back are worked separately back and forth. On the front yoke, stitches are integrated into Fisherman’s Rib every right side row, with decreases used to compensate for the difference in gauge. On the back, stitches are bound off and immediately picked up at a different rate to com-

88

❤✿

With smaller needle, CO 90 (102, 114, 126, 138, 150) sts, place marker (pm) for side, CO 90 (102, 114, 126, 138, 150) sts—180 (204, 228, 252, 276, 300) sts. Pm and join in the rnd. Next rnd *K1tbl, p1; rep from * to end. Rep last rnd until piece measures ½" from CO. Change to larger cir needle. Work in St st until piece measures 14¼ (15, 15½, 16, 16½, 17)" from CO. Divide for front and back: Next row (RS) K33 (36, 39, 42, 48, 51), pm, k1, pm, knit to side m, remove m, place next 90 (102, 114, 126, 138, 150) sts on holder for back—90 (102, 114, 126, 138, 150) sts rem for front.

Front

Shape sleeves: Next row (WS) Using the cable method, CO 3 sts, purl to end, turn and CO 3 sts—96 (108, 120, 132, 144, 156) sts. Next row (RS) Knit to 3 sts before m, k1b (see Stitches), p2tog, sl m, k1b, remove m, p2tog, k1b, pm, knit to end—94 (106, 118, 130, 142, 154) sts rem. Next row Purl to m, sl m, p1, k1b (working through both sts of p2tog), p1, remove m, k1b (working through both sts of p2tog), p1, pm, purl to end. Next row Knit to 3 sts before m,

k1b, p2tog, sl m, *k1b, p1; rep from * to 1 st before m, k1b, remove m, p2tog, k1b, pm, knit to end—2 sts dec’d. Next row Purl to m, sl m, *p1, k1b; rep from * to 1 st before m, p1, remove m, k1b, p1, pm, purl to end. Rep last 2 rows 10 (11, 12, 13, 15, 16) more times, removing left front m on last rep—72 (82, 92, 102, 110, 120) sts rem. Next row (RS) Sl 1, *p1, k1b; rep from * to m, remove m, p2tog, k1b, pm, knit to end—1 st dec’d. Next row Purl to m, sl m, *p1, k1b; rep from * to last st, p1. Rep last 2 rows 6 (8, 10, 12, 12, 14) more times—65 (73, 81, 89, 97, 105) sts rem. Work in fisherman’s rib (see Stitches) until armhole measures 4¾ (5¼, 5¾, 6½, 7, 7¾)", ending with a WS row. Shape neck using short-rows as foll: Short-row 1 (RS) Work 25 (27, 31, 33, 37, 39) sts, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 2 (WS) Work in patt to end. Short-row 3 Work 21 (23, 27, 29, 33, 35) sts, wrap next st, place 44 (50, 54, 60, 64, 70) sts on left needle on holder, turn. Next row (WS) Work in patt to end—21 (23, 27, 29, 33, 35) sts rem for left shoulder. Work even until armhole measures 7¼ (7¾, 8¼, 8¾, 9¼, 9¾)", ending with a WS row. Place sts on holder. Break yarn, leaving an 18" tail. Right front: With RS facing, keep first 19 (23, 23, 27, 27, 31) sts on holder for neck and return rem 25 (27, 31, 33, 37, 39) sts to larger needle. With RS facing, rejoin yarn. Work 1 RS row. Next row (WS) Sl 1, work 20 (22, 26, 28, 32, 34) sts in patt, wrap next st, place 4 sts on left needle on neck holder, turn—21 (23, 27, 29, 33, 35) sts rem. Work even until armhole measures 7¼ (7¾, 8¼, 8¾, 9¼, 9¾)", ending with a RS row. Place sts on holder. Break yarn, leaving an 18" tail.

Back

Return 90 (102, 114, 126, 138, 150) held back sts to needle and with RS facing, rejoin yarn. Next row (RS) CO 3 sts, knit to end—93 (105, 117, 129, 141, 153) sts. Next

6¾ (8, 8, 9¼, 9¼, 10¼)" 6¼ (6¾, 8, 8½, 9¾, 10¼)" 2½ (2½, 2½, 2¼, 2¼, 2)" 7¼ (7¾, 8¼, 8¾, 9¼, 9¾)"

body 14¼ (15, 15½, 16, 16½, 17)"

38 (43, 48, 53, 58, 63¼)"

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Fading Light

row (WS) CO 3 sts, purl to end—96 (108, 120, 132, 144, 156) sts. Work even in St st until armhole measures 3¾ (4, 4¼, 4½, 4¾, 5)", ending with a RS row. Loosely BO all sts pwise. Do not break yarn. With RS facing, pick up and knit 65 (73, 81, 89, 97, 105) sts evenly along BO edge (about 2 sts for every 3 BO sts). Next row (WS) Purl. Work in fisherman’s rib until armhole measures 7¼ (7¾, 8¼, 8¾, 9¼, 9¾)", ending with a RS row. Next row (WS) Work 21 (23, 27, 29, 33, 35) sts, pm, work 23 (27, 27, 31, 31, 35) center back sts, pm, work to end. Break yarn.

F inishing

Turn garment inside out and place held left front sts on spare needle. Holding needles parallel, join left shoulder as foll: Using tail from left front, and starting at outside edge, knit 1 st from front needle tog with 1 st from back needle, *k1 from back needle, pass previous st over, k1 from front needle, pass previous st over, k2tog (1 from each needle), pass previous st over; rep from * until all left front sts have been consumed and first m on back is reached. Place held right front sts on spare needle and join right shoulder as for left shoulder, using 18" tail and working from outside

edge. Neck edging: Place 23 (27, 27, 31, 31, 35) held front sts onto dpn. Place 23 (27, 27, 31, 31, 35) held back sts onto dpn and with RS facing, rejoin yarn. Next rnd [K2, M1] 11 (13, 13, 15, 15, 17) times, k1, pick up and knit 10 sts along left neck, [k2, M1] 11 (13, 13, 15, 15, 17) times, k1, pick up and knit 10 sts along right neck—88 (100, 100, 112, 112, 124) sts. Pm and join in the rnd. Work in k1, p1 rib for 2 rnds. Loosely BO all sts. Armhole edging: With RS facing and dpn, beg at underarm and pick up and knit 60

(64, 68, 72, 76, 80) sts evenly around armhole edge. Pm and join in the rnd. Work in k1, p1 rib for 1 rnd. Loosely BO all sts kwise. Weave in ends. Block to measurements. ❤

Bristol Ivy is from Portland, Maine, and her designs focus on the intersection of clean tailoring and innovative technique, creating a unique and wearable aesthetic while maintaining knitterly appeal.

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Love historical knitting? PieceWork Historical Knitting 2007-2010 Collection This collection includes the first four digital editions of PieceWork magazine dedicated to historical knitting.

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2007: PieceWork’s first issue dedicated to historical knitting features colorful mittens perfect for cold and snow, clever knitted bags, a luxurious sweater for a baby, and tips and techniques for two-end knitting. JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2008: PieceWork’s second annual historical knitting issue features the popular poetry mittens, ancient Artic knitting techniques, a modern knitted kimono from Ann Budd, and more. JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2009: PieceWork’s third annual historical knitting issue features Eleanor Roosevelt’s love of knitting, tips and techniques to knit a sock in a sock, and instructions to knit Alice Starmore’s Capillifolium Baby Bonnet. JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2010: Discover fascinating knitters from the past, learn what folks were knitting in medieval London, knit mittens and socks, and enjoy a stitch pattern from Barbara Walker, author of the beloved Treasury of Knitting Patterns books.

You can get this Collection on CD or download it instantly at InterweaveStore.com

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Textured Stitches to Swatch and Explore! CELEBRATE ESTONIAN KNITTING

The Web Connection Shops/Mail Order Woobee KnitShop

www.woobeeknitshop.com (307) 760-2092 Products include Brown Sheep, Waverly, Jean Greenhowe, Addi, and Skacel.

Websites To Visit

Lion Brand Yarn Company www.lionbrand.com (800) 258-YARN

Yarn-crafting education, inspiration, and innovation. Famous for quality since 1878.

Yarns

Berroco Yarns

www.berroco.com info@berroco.com

Free patterns, yarn & shop finder, and free e-newsletter, KnitBits.

Jimmy Beans Wool

www.jimmybeanswool.com (775) 827-YARN (9276) Fine yarn, fabric, accessories, and more for Needlearts enthusiasts worldwide.

Knits and Pearls

knitsandpearls.com margaux@knitsandpearls.com SweetGeorgia, Artyarns, Baah, Imperial Yarn and Zen Yarn Garden

Tahki•Stacy Charles Inc. www.tahkistacycharles.com (718) 326-4433 Filatura Di Crosa, S. Charles Collezione, Tahki Yarns, and Loop-d-Loop.

Wool2Dye4

www.Wool2Dye4.com Yarnie@Wool2Dye4.com Exclusive line of undyed yarns for hand-dye artists.

to advertise here call Stephanie Griess at (877) 613-4630

advertisers’ index Alpaca Yarn Company, The . . . . . 59 Merike Saarniit treasures the richness and creativity of her Estonian textile heritage. Reading the complex knitting patterns in her Estonian stitch dictionaries, Merike fell in love with the innovative designs and endless variations.

Blue Sky Alpacas . . . . . 23

Learn to knit these beautiful patterns in this video workshop! In addition to the traditional stitches, you’ll discover how Merike’s innovative cast-on and selvedge treatments transform a swatch into a useful start for a hat, cuff, or even a sweater. With Merike’s guidance, you will knit:

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• Stretchy decorative elongated stitches • Surprising stitch manipulations • Several kinds of nupps • Elegant horizontal and traveling patterns • And more! Plus! Follow along with Merike in this 90-minute video and make your own Estonian stitch sampler using the free pattern included with this workshop!

Available at your local yarn shop or online at InterweaveStore.com.

Brown Sheep Company . 3 Cascade Yarns . . . . . 5, C4

Clover Mfg. Inc. . . . . . . . 7 Crafts Americana . . . . . 37 Denise Interchangeable Knitting & Crochet . . 49

Interweave . . . . C2, 9, 23, 49, 59, 61, 63,65, 75, 77, 87, 89, 90, 91, 94, 95, C3 Kelbourne Woolens (The Fibre Co) . . . . . . . . . 53 Knitting Boutique, The . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 Knitting Fever Inc . . 51, 59 Mango Moon . . . . . . . . 51 North Light Fibers . . . . 59

Eucalan Inc . . . . . . . . . . 51

Skacel Collection . . . . . 37

Fairmount Fibers Ltd. . . . 7

SweetGeorgia Yarns. . . 37

Grace Akhrem . . . . . . . 53

Tika Bags . . . . . . . . . . . 87

Green Mountain Spinnery. . . . . . . . . . 87

Tunney Wool Company/ O-Wool . . . . . . . . . . 51

Halcyon Yarn. . . . . . . . . 49

Webs/America’s Yarn Store . . . . . . . . 35

International Quilt Show (Hunter McMain) . . . 35

Wool 2 Dye 4 . . . . . . . . 87 Summer14 Knitscene

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Shop Listings Yarn

California

District of Columbia

Colors 91711—Claremont

Looped Yarn Works —Washington, D.C.

www.colors91711.com Colors specializes in natural, fair trade & eco fibers, accessories, and classes for knitters, crocheters & spinners. 248 Harvard Ave. (909) 624-6161

A Yarn Less Raveled—Danville

www.ayarnlessraveled.com Everything you need for your knit/crochet projects– beautiful yarns, patterns, needles, notions, and support to make your project a success. Classes of all levels! 730 Camino Ramon, Suite 186 (925) 263-2661

The Yarn Boutique—Lafayette

www.yarnboutique.us Beautiful yarns, friendly, personal service, and sensible prices. Located in La Fiesta Square near FedEx Office. 963-C Moraga Rd. (925) 283-7377

Uncommon Threads—Los Altos

www.uncommonthreadsyarn.com Beautiful yarns from around the world. 293 State St. (650) 941-1815

Knit Culture Studio—Los Angeles

www.knitculture.com Wide selection of unique and hand-dyed yarns, patterns, books, classes, and crafting supplies. Amazing customer service! 8118 W. 3rd St. (323) 655-6487

Once Around—Mill Valley

www.oncearound.com The felting, stamping, embroidery, fabric-painting, wreath-making, embossing, scrapbooking, decoupage, candlecrafting, bookbinding, glitter, sewing, knitting and, more . . . ARTS and CRAFTS STORE. 352 Miller Ave. (415) 389-1667

www.loopedyarnworks.com A friendly, comfortable, and warm shop with a selection of beautiful yarns and notions. Great classes, workshops, knitalongs, and knit nights. 1732 Connecticut Ave. NW #200 (202) 714-5667

Florida A Good Yarn—Sarasota

www.agoodyarnsarasota.com There’s something for everyone at A Good Yarn, Sarasota’s ultimate creative spot for all things yarn! 7418 S. Tamiami Trl. (941) 487-7914

Georgia Creative Yarns—Macon

www.creativeyarns.net “I was blown away...amazing customer service and selection...rooms upon rooms of yarn...competitively priced... loyalty program...whole clearance room...wall of patterns...shipped same day...cannot wait to visit again”—our customers say it all! 134 Speer Ave. (478) 746-5648

Idaho Knit-n-Crochet—Coeur d’ Alene

www.knit-n-crochet.com Friendly service and inviting atmosphere. Come in and see, or shop online, our large selection of yarn, needles, and accessories. 600 W. Kathleen Ave. #30 (208) 676-YARN (9276)

Alpaca Direct—Hayden

Colorado Table Rock Llamas Fiber Arts Studio Inc.—Colorado Springs

www.tablerockllamas.com Knitting, crochet, spinning, weaving, felting, and dyeing. 6520 Shoup Rd. (866) 495-7747

www.AlpacaDirect.com Huge selection of luxury yarn, roving, and knitting supplies. Classes and support. 1016 W. Hayden Ave. (208) 209-7079 (888) 306-0111

Illinois Knot Just Knits—Oak Park

www.knotjustknits.com The new nook for creative knitting, crocheting, and canvas work. No matter what your skill level. 1107-1109 Westgate (708) 948-7943

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Wool, Warp & Wheel—Richmond

www.woolwarpandwheel.com Spinning, weaving, and knitting supplies and equipment. Tue-Fri 7pm–9:00pm, Sat-Sun 10-5. 5605 Mill St. (815) 678-4063

Indiana Knitting Off Broadway —Fort Wayne

www.knittingoffbroadway.com Located in a restored 1890’s building, this full-service yarn store specializes in unique and hard-to-find fibers. 1309 Broadway (260) 422-YARN

Maryland The Knitting Boutique —Glen Burnie

www.KnittingBoutique.com Pennsylvania’s goodness combined with Maryland’s charm. Discover our new yarn line that’s uniquely beautiful. Luxury at your fingertips with each and every stitch! 910 Cromwell Park Dr., Ste. 108 (410) 553-0433

WOOLWINDERS YARN SHOP —Rockville

www.woolwinders.com Knit, create, and share fine quality yarns and multi-level knitting/crochet classes all in our cozy, friendly shop! 404 King Farm Blvd. (240) 632-9276

Massachusetts The Woolpack—Acton

www.woolpackyarn.com Yearn for Yarn? Unwind your mind and knit yourself silly in our cozy fiber mercantile. Acton Woods Plaza/340 Great Rd. (978) 263-3131

Stitch House—Dorchester

www.stitchhousedorchester.com Very cool place to buy yarn, learn to knit, sew, crochet, or have a party. 846 Dorchester Ave. (617) 265-8013

The Fiber Loft—Harvard

www.TheFiberLoft.com Knitting~Weaving~Spinning~Felting. Serving fiber enthusiasts for over 30 years. We have what you need! 9 Massachusetts Ave. (Rt. 111) (978) 456-8669

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Mississippi Knutty Knitters—Yazoo City

We carry over 60 lines of lovely yarns as well as books, needles, lessons, workshops, fellowship, and great fun. 128 S. Main St. (662) 746-7555

New Jersey Lion Brand Yarn Outlet—Carlstadt

www.LionBrand.com/outlet.html 50% off first quality discontinued colors and weekly surprise specials up to 75% off. 140 Kero Rd. (201) 939-0611

Patricia’s Yarns—Hoboken

www.patriciasyarns.com Beautiful natural fiber yarn shop located a stone’s throw from Manhattan in the quaint Hudson River–front city of Hoboken. 107 4th St. (201) 217-YARN

Woolbearers—Mount Holly

www.woolbearers.com Full-service knitting, spinning, weaving, and dyeing shop specializing in handpainted fiber and yarns, spinning, and weaving equipment. 90 High St. (609) 914-0003

New Mexico The Yarn Store at Nob Hill —Albuquerque

www.theyarnstoreatnobhill.com Join us for Open Knitting anytime during store hours! Quality yarns, tools, books, accessories, and unique local items. 120 Amherst Dr. NE (505) 717-1535

New York Lion Brand Yarn Studio—New York www.lionbrandyarnstudio.com Wide selection of Lion Brand yarns, free knit and crochet demonstrations, classes, and special events. 34 W. 15th St. (212) 243-9070

Virginia

Knot Another Hat—Hood River

fibre spaceTM—Alexandria

www.knotanotherhat.com Your source for everything hip and knit– worthy! Find fine yarns, needles, accessories, gifts, and more! 16 Oak St., Ste. 202 (541) 308-0002

Pennsylvania Gosh Yarn It!—Kingston

www.goshyarnitshop.com A beautiful yarn boutique in Northeastern PA. Visit us for fine yarn, patterns, notions, and knitting & crochet classes. 303 Market St. (570) 287-9999

Natural Stitches—Pittsburgh

www.naturalstitches.com Best selection of natural fibers in Pittsburgh. Knowledgeable staff. Open 7 days. Evenings, too! 6401 Penn Ave. (412) 441-4410

Tennessee Smoky Mountain Spinnery —Gatlinburg

www.smokymountainspinnery.com Come shop in our comfortable surroundings. Everything for spinning, weaving, knitting, crocheting, and needlefelting. Antiques and gifts, too. 466 Brookside Village Wy., Ste. 8 (865) 436-9080

Texas Yarntopia—Katy

www.yarntopia.net Yarntopia carries a multitude of specialty yarns that are sure to please every crafter. Stitching groups and classes available. 2944 S. Mason Rd., Ste. M (281) 392-2386

www.fibrespace.com Visit our retro styled shop in historic Alexandria, VA. 102 N. Fayette St. (703) 664-0344

Washington NW Handspun Yarns—Bellingham www.NWHandspunYarns.com Quality yarns, books, equipment, supplies for the knitter, spinner, and weaver. Classes and gifts. Open Tuesday–Sunday. 1401 Commercial St. (360) 738-0167

Serial Knitters Yarn Shop —Kirkland

www.serialknitters.com Specializing in local hand dyed yarns, friendly community-based atmosphere and classes. 8427 122nd Ave. NE (425) 242-0086

Paradise Fibers—Spokane

www.paradisefibers.net Terrific selection of wool yarn, knitting needles, wheels, and looms. Order online or stop in. Same-day shipping! 225 W. Indiana Ave. (888) 320-7746

Wisconsin The Dragonfly Yarn Shop —Janesville

www.dragonflyyarnshop.com Wool and luxury fibers. Addi and Crystal Palace needles. Lessons by the hour. Home of the Pirouette! 1327 N. Wright Rd., Ste. 5A (608) 757-9228

WC Mercantile—Navasota

www.wcmercantile.com “The BEST little Wool shop in Texas!” Featuring natural fibers for knitting and spinning. Lots of local Texas yarns, too! 201 E. Washington Ave. (936) 825-3378

Classifieds Yarns WWW.WOOL2DYE4.COM Exclusive line of undyed yarns for hand-dyers. Make your work stand out! Wholesale inquiries welcome. Yarnie@Wool2Dye4.com.

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Shop Listings

www.hubmillsstore.com An outlet for discontinued Classic Elite Yarns and a full-service yarn shop carrying many fine yarns. 16 Esquire Rd. Unit 2 (978) 408-2176

Oregon

Yarn

Hub Mills Yarn Store —North Billerica

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Traditional techniques for modern sensibilities. New Vintage Lace combines traditional knitted lace techniques with modern style featuring 18 gorgeous patterns adapted from vintage doilies. Challenge your lace knitting abilities with New Vintage Lace and start knitting beautiful shawls, hats, wraps and more! Andrea Jurgrau covers the knitty gritty details for new lace knitters while still engaging seasoned knitters. Included is a â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;recipeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; to create your own vintage pattern adaptations. Andrea Jurgrau 160 Pages, $24.99 ISBN 13: 9781620331002

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Photos by Meredith Crawford

>>>>>>>>>> blogspotting

Q How long have you been blogging?

Photo by Sara Gillespie

choice! I think one of my A Tough I have been blogging for about four A favorite quick knit projects is my knit years. I started during the summer of 2010 before beginning my junior year of college.

Q

What inspired you to start a blog?

Meredith Crawford of One Sheepish Girl has nothing to be sheepish about! This prolific crafter and blogger is well known in the blogosphere for her creative posts and incredible photography. Read more about Meredith here and visit www.onesheepishgirl.com for more inspiration. (Be sure to read up on her weekly The Blush List for great finds from around the Web). 96

Q

Which post has been your favorite to write so far?

A

After teaching myself to knit and crochet, my friends encouraged me to start blogging about my projects. I had no idea I would discover my creative passion and such a powerful source of confidence! Blogging has pushed my creativity to the limit and challenges me daily to keep trying new things. 

Q

What types of projects do you like to knit and blog?

A

I love all kinds of knitting projects! I have tried scarves, socks, sweaters, and all kinds of fun accessories. I once knit a handle cover for my espresso pot because I kept burning myself every time I picked it up! I really enjoy fi nding a problem, fi xing it, or making something more interesting with a little bit of yarn. 

ampersand wall decoration. It is so different but is really simple to create. I just added some knit I-cord over the top of bendable wire and shaped it into an ampersand. I love how much texture it adds to my wall of art prints!

Q

Name one blog you love to read and share why you love it.

A

One blog? An even tougher choice! One of my favorite yarn bloggers is Alicia Paulson from Posie Gets Cozy (www.rosylittlethings.typepad.com). Her posts are so warm and inviting. I love reading about her sweet family, her current knitting project, and drooling over her latest recipe. She is so inspiring. Find Meredith @ Facebook, Pinterest, and elsewhere on the Web: Ravelry: onesheepishgirl Twitter: @onesheepishgirl Instagram: one_sheepish_girl

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Knitscene 2014 summer