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In the court of

King

‘Jeremy Clarkson is my hero’ Alastair Campbell interviews Top Gear’s Chris Evans

LEO What it’s REALLY like to be Leonardo DiCaprio Photographed for British GQ by Gavin Bond

POLITICS

BREXIT:

THE FACTS Are you in or out?

WE explain YOU decide Plus! The 24 health hacks to change your life


TAG HEUER CARRERA CALIBRE HEUER 01 TAG Heuer is the Oficial Timekeeper and Team Performance Partner of Red Bull Racing. Two disruptive teams who #dontcrackunderpressure both on and off the track. www.tagheuer.com


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29

159

Editor’s Letter

120

35

Michael Wolf Donald Trump is the clown of the biggest media circus in American politics, but even if he fails to make the White House he will have changed the game forever.

Foreword Digital dating apps are already old news – so what is the future for web-based wingmen? BY STUART McGURK

39 Details Teresa Palmer blows up; gambling meets science; business smarts from TV’s Billions; baseball caps you can actually wear; the best new digital projectors.

39

73

159 As festival season pitches up we test Lab

80

80 Cars

José Mourinho boots up on the ice of Sweden in an SUV that drives like a sports car – the Jaguar F-Pace.

87 69 Hugo Rifkind How to prepare for your relationship’s most dangerous question: “Do you find her attractive?”

73 Bachelor Pad Where to look online for curated collections for your home.

75

My Style Trends and board treading with actor Timothy Renouf.

Travel 75

With nine bedrooms, four acres and seven pools, the new Greek super-villa is open for bookings; plus, the multinational Hollywood redoubt.

91

the best tents and hi-tech tools to match the sounds of the summer.

167

167

Dresser

Uniqlo’s new flagship shop positions itself as a major cultural hub; marking 340 years of London hatter Lock & Co; Jim Chapman on dressing for dates; Omega’s space-age watch.

178 GQ Preview Products, events and offers.

181 Grooming Lewis Hamilton’s winning routine.

184 GQ Men Of The Year Win tickets to the biggest party of 2016.

Taste The war on food waste heats up; wine and dine with New Zealand’s locavore gourmands; plus, the must-know club, pub, hotel, bar and bakery.

101 Our Stuf GQ designer Oliver Jamieson opens his little black book.

Life Health hacks for body, mind and soul; the artist who paints pictures of online onanism; Bear Grylls on talking to presidents; the perfect surfing work-out; saddle up for road, track and trail. JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 15


266 Photographs Instagram/@carolinevreeland

Why aren’t you following...

@ CarolineVreeland Tap. Share. Like. Repeat: GQ presents an exclusive portfolio of Instagram’s most revealing fashion heiress. JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 17


232

232

Guests of the British Academy Film Awards suit up and sit for a special GQ portfolio, from Tom Cruise to Max Irons and Eddie Redmayne to Douglas Booth.

215

PHOTOGRAPHS BY

Gavin Bond

215 The Drop

Features & fashion

What Brexit might mean for the Premier League’s foreign legion; Don DeLillo’s latest chiller; a poetical who’s who of art; new music memoirs; why the anxiety of youth is running high in the charts; the car’s the star again in Top Gear’s reboot.

58

Wales’ manifesto-waving rock firebrands mark 20 years since Everything Must Go. BY MARK RUSSELL

152

304

228

King Leo GQ shines a light on the mystery, majesty and milestones of Leonardo DiCaprio, Hollywood’s greatest but most elusive superstar.

Olivier Rousteing of Balmain on leading a fashion revolution. BY JONATHAN HEAF

BY JONATHAN HEAF 103

125

240 199

103 GQ Vitality Inspire yourself to inner (and outer) greatness.

125

COMPILED BY STUART McGURK

250

GQ Mid-Term Watch Report

274

Good times! Two mad Englishmen, three short years and a generation of A-Listers created LA’s wild and wonderful Flipper’s Roller Boogie Palace.

BY CAROLINE DAVIES

258

Step change Take brogues, loafers and trainers to the next level with bold prints and colours.

GQ Food & Drink Awards Who won big at our annual celebration of British cuisine? Across eleven categories, we decorate the reservations of the year.

Laughter in the dark Heard the joke about the American comedy show transferring to Egypt? Saturday Night Live Arabia gets serious about satire.

All the news, advice and timepiece trends from the world of horology.

199

Brexit: the facts Every position, prediction, argument and implication – including columns by Tony Parsons and Matthew d’Ancona – in the run-up to the most important vote of our lives.

274

Sean Macaulay

Alastair Campbell meets Chris Evans What’s driving Top Gear’s new host as he attempts to refuel the BBC’s most lucrative and controversial series?

Out To Lunch

STORY BY

GQ Icons: Manic Street Preachers

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ARTHUR BELEBEAU

282

Hamptons style Borrow the look of New York’s great and good with this season’s coolest beachwear. PHOTOGRAPHS BY CARLOTTA MANAIGO

JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 19


Editor

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Contributing Photographers Miles Aldridge, Guy Aroch, David Bailey, Coppi Barbieri, Matthew Beedle, Gavin Bond, Richard Burbridge, Richard Cannon, Kenneth Cappello, Matthias Clamer, Dylan Don, Jill Greenberg, Marc Hom, Benny Horne, Norman Jean Roy, Tony Kelly, Steven Klein, David LaChapelle, Brigitte Lacombe, Joshua Lawrence, Sun Lee, Peter Lindbergh, Steve Neaves, Zed Nelson, Mitch Payne, Vincent Peters, Sudhir Pithwa, Rankin, Mick Rock, Mark Seliger, Søren Solkær, Mario Sorrenti, Mario Testino, Ellen von Unwerth, Mariano Vivanco, Matthias Vriens, Nick Wilson, Richard Young DIRECTOR OF EDITORIAL ADMINISTRATION AND RIGHTS Harriet Wilson INTERNATIONAL PERMISSIONS MANAGER Eleanor Sharman

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Photographs EPA; Getty Images; i-Images; Solo Syndication

Are you In or Out? Please don’t go: Posters, leaflets and badges supporting Britain in the EU; (right) the pro-Remain David Cameron

A few weeks ago I was attending a big music industry event in aid of music education. All the great and the good were there, by which I mean people in full-time employment who happen to earn their living in the music business: record company heads, agents, publicists, publishers, promoters, journalists (not so many these days) and seemingly dozens of people working for quangos (most of whom appeared to have the words “associate” or its US counterpart, “vice president” attached to their job titles). It was a swinging affair, with performances from highly proficient students and speeches from various industry bods, swanky non-execs and – this being a London event – a topof-the-bill monologue from Boris Johnson. As this was a highly mediated event full of gossip columnists, music paper hacks and TV crews, Boris didn’t pass up the opportunity to espouse the virtues of Brexit, a personal as well as a very professional political cause that may come to define the outgoing mayor. Ever the charmer, he used a well-worn softlysoftly approach, having the largely benign crowd in stitches. However, when I say benign crowd, I mean in terms of their feelings towards Boris, not towards the Leave, actually Brexit campaign and the ideologies behind it. Two (above): Nigel things happened at the lunch that convinced me that Farage outside the Electoral there is a liberal orthodoxy attached to the issue of Commission; (right) whether or not the country stays a full member of the outgoing mayor European Union, an orthodoxy that is not articulated, Boris Johnson but assumed. As I walked into the event (in the small ballroom of a Mayfair hotel), myself and my companion were immediately buttonholed by an affiliate of the GREAT campaign, the government-backed initiative that aims to promote the UK internationally as a great place to visit, study and do business, promoting our national strengths in education and the arts. When the subject of the 23 June referendum came up, we were interrupted by what felt like a government-backed salvo of #StrongerIn invective which floated the idea that anyone – by which she obviously meant everyone – involved in the world of the arts was resolutely against the idea of leaving Europe. According to our GREAT friend, it was simply a fait accompli: if you’re in any way associated with the arts then it’s assumed that you like, and want to stay a part of, Europe. Because not to do so is considered old-fashioned, reactionary, inward-looking, creatively myopic and borderline racist. Then, when we all eventually sat down to lunch, I found myself sitting next to another government affiliate, this time one who actually spends the bulk of his time closely involved with the arts (and not just flogging them to Johnny Foreigner). As Boris started his speech, he leaned into me (I gather he’d heard the speech one or two times before) and gave me his own Brexit-related monologue. “The gist of it is this,” he said, between mouthfuls of cold coronation chicken and warm fizzy water. “If you’re involved with the arts in this country you’re simply not allowed to say that you’re thinking of voting ‘Out’. You can’t even say you’re enjoying the debate. If you do, people start avoiding you in the corridor. I should know, as it’s happened to me. It’s a bit like saying you don’t read the Guardian.” This is the same kind of hegemony that has swirled around the JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 29


creative arts in this country for decades, the idea that the only course of action in any debate is the one with the greatest liberal swing, a default position that excludes those on the right from having any leave to pontificate on the arts at all – if indeed being intrigued by the Out campaign is a position closer to the right than the left. What I found interesting about the lunch was the fact that the person scared to say he is thinking of voting Out is actually one of the most left-wing people I know, someone whose immediate response to any debate is usually one gleaned from the leader page of the Guardian, or, in times gone by, the Independent. The referendum has become the only game in town. Barely an hour goes by in our office between conversations erupting over a seemingly innocuous comment that result in a full-blown debate, making our usually faultless production process something of a challenge these past few months. It seems to be like that everywhere right now, in every home, in every office, in every club and pub. Are we In or are we Out? More importantly, and far more saliently, are you In or Out? And why? As the conversation builds to its inevitable conclusion – 23 June – we thought it behoved us to offer our own Brexit guide, offering the pros and cons of an issue that will not only define our times, but also the times ahead. This is David Cameron’s referendum, and what started as a political gambit to keep his party together has quickly turned into an alarmingly close contest. The odds are still on Britain being a part of the EU on 24 June, yet the possibility of Brexit has resulted in a barrage of opinion and fact. And it’s often difficult to work out which is which. If you listen to the Economist for instance – and why wouldn’t you? – you’ll think that a vote to leave would damage the economy, imperil Britain’s security and, far from reclaiming sovereignty, “Britons would be forgoing clout, by giving up membership of a powerful club whose actions they can influence better from within than without.” Uncoupling the world’s fifthlargest economy from its biggest market would not just result in economic turmoil, it would obviously encourage the rest of Europe to consider what a future would be like without being shackled to Brussels. Of course, Brexit critics like to point out that the right-wing press have a tendency to conflate the issue of EU membership with immigration, but then it would be odd if they didn’t. Half of Britain’s migrants come from the EU, and there is little the government can do to stop them. If we left the union, it obviously could, but then we lose access to the full benefits of a single market. The issues are complex and inflammatory – economic, financial, cultural, military, racial – and all are as nuanced as you want them to be. Many of the people I speak to say they are going to vote In on 23 June, while just as many are leaning Out, although there appears to be just as many again who still haven’t made up their minds. Some say their heart says Out but their head says In, and others simply want to leave it to very last minute. It’s in this spirit that we offer our own guide, which can be found on page 240. Over to you!

This political gambit has quickly turned into an alarmingly close contest

Lanvin midnight blue suede and patent leather trainers (£260. lanvin.com). Dark trainers with white soles are de rigueur around the GQ office, as they are perfect for daywear, perfect for eveningwear, and even perfect for weekendwear. We haven’t learned to sleep in them yet, but we’re working on it.

MCM Duke Luxus backpack in black, (£950. mcmworldwide.com). It’s just as acceptable to carry a backpack as it is a briefcase, and if you’re at a meeting east of Holborn it’s compulsory. So why would you want to carry anything else other than one made by MCM? Well, you wouldn’t, would you?

Oliver Peoples clear plastic Harwell spectacles (£235. At davidclulow. com). Having worn black and tortoiseshell glasses for most of my life, I’m now addicted to clear frames – and Oliver Peoples makes the best. It also makes the same frames for sunglasses.

Miles Ahead by Miles Davis, (Sony) the soundtrack to the Don Cheadle film, including essential tracks, original compositions and dialogue. It might not be possible to own too many Miles albums…

Cover: Suit, £2,100. Shirt. Bow tie. All by Armani. armani.com Photograph: Gavin Bond/Bafta/Camera Press

Dylan Jones, Editor 30 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016

Follow us @britishgq @dylanjonesgq

Zero K by Don DeLillo, (Pan Macmillan, £16.99). A new DeLillo book can still cause a stir. This one concerns eternal life and a billionaire who tries to cure his ailing wife by preserving her body until researchers figure out the whole “living forever thing”. Time to start an eternal book club.


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Contributors

Arthur BELEBEAU

Lou STOPPARD GQ’s Contributing Fashion Editor Lou Stoppard spent time with British artist Celia Hempton, who finds creative inspiration in online exhibitionists. Hempton spends several days a week logged in to Chat Random, painting nude video chatters from across the world. “The relationship between subject and artist is layered and slippery,” says Stoppard. “Hempton’s work captures the trickiness of sexual politics.”

The photographer Arthur Belebeau brings shoes to life for this month’s feature on summer footwear. Belebeau, who has shot famous faces including Katy Perry and Kim Kardashian, wanted to give each colourful shoe its own character. “The idea was to show the personality of the shoe as well as the personality of each outfit,” said Belebeau. “We wanted to bring the fun and energy of the summer.”

Caroline DAVIES How do you make an all-American comedy show in a region torn apart by war and repressed by extreme censorship? Such was Guardian writer Caroline Davies’ first thought, as she travelled to Cairo to report on Egypt’s version of Saturday Night Live. “The Middle East is more than a war zone,” says Davies. “What SNL Arabia created was original and hilarious. Even if I only got the joke 30 seconds later.”

AA GILL How to play golf without becoming a golfer: that’s the conundrum AA Gill mulls over this month at GQ.co.uk. While Gill’s biweekly golfing lessons started as a pleasant routine, he soon began to notice that embracing the golfer persona was repulsive to other people – “the equivalent of having sex with your socks on”.

Photographs Nik Hartley; Rex

Jonathan HEAF For this month’s cover story, GQ Features Director Jonathan Heaf observed Leonardo DiCaprio’s every move as he joined him at the Baftas – and paid particular attention to his entourage. “Tobey Maguire, Alejandro González Iñárritu and Rick Yorn were the only men in his orbit. Supermodels come and go, but friendship offers what fame dissolves: freedom.”

Gavin BOND Gavin Bond almost missed his chance to photograph Leonardo DiCaprio for this month’s cover. “He was coming towards me at the Baftas but was pulled back as he needed to be in his seat for Best Picture. I knew that if The Revenant didn’t win I would have blown my chance.” Thankfully for them both, The Revenant won. “Leo cracked a knowing grin,” said Bond. “Finally the king has been crowned.” JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 33


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Next please: Apps changed dating culture, but have become too generalised and time consuming

LOVE IS THE TINDER TRAP Dating apps were supposed to transform the quest for romance – but now they’re stuck in a rut. Same results, same trawling, same disappointments. GQ has some suggestions... STORY BY

Illustration Alamy

W  

e are in the middle, so we’re told, of “Tinder and the dawn of the dating apocalypse!” We don’t date anymore, we app. From a standing start, the Tinder app has now been downloaded over 100 million times, and there are, at any one time, over ten million people swiping with horny thumbs. And it’s not even the most popular app anymore. A host of slightly tweaked others have joined it, all helping you, the sexless singleton, have sex. Don’t worry – GQ isn’t about to bemoan this. We couldn’t be more for it. Your humble GQ correspondent, for instance, has been awed by the wonder of hook-up technology ever since we heard the story of a former colleague’s flatmate. Said individual was an avid watcher of two long-running dramas which aired on a Monday, but lamented the

Stuart McGurk

hour gap between them. And so, he would regularly plug the gap, so to speak, with sex, via the gay hook-up app Grindr. One hour, in-out (again, apologies), and back in time for the second show. Yes, it’s fair to say, that was when we really realised what a wonder technology could be. Add in Uber’s rise to Tinder’s popularity, and we now have the perfect storm. Never mind not having to leave the house for a sexual partner, we don’t even have to leave our iPhone home screen. GQ even has its very own Tinder baby. A colleague, who shall remain nameless, had a tried and tested method of asking every girl he matched with if they wanted to know a fun fact, said fact revolving around a titan of industry, wealth investment and a well-known art gallery, and apparently guaranteed an encounter every single time. JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 35


“And that’s how I met my wife! Along with many other less eligible women...” What a world we live in. And yet. There are still problems that GQ would like to solve. And the biggest is that they try to be for everyone. This has led, for instance, to those individuals who get “Tinder thumb”, acting like dating trawler fishermen by swiping right on everyone, nearly wearing a groove into the glass as they do so, and aren’t at all bothered if they catch a few dolphins in the nets while they’re at it (“Wey-hey! Any shoal’s a goal!”). Put another way: Tinder started out as a cool club. Now it’s that euro trash club in Leicester Square where nerdy guys practice their negging pick-up artist lines with factory-line efficiency on unsuspecting Latvian exchange students. Which is why apps have started getting specific and catering for different tastes. Bored of Tinder? Try Hinge, which will only connect you with people with whom you already have friends in common. (In reality, this quickly reduces London to that awkward wedding where three of your exes have turned up). Or Happn, which matches you based on who you cross paths with (much loved by two opposing types of people – those who believe in rom-coms, destiny, fate, and true love; and those who are stalkers, who possibly also believe in all those things, but are distinctly more proactive about it). The most popular app at the moment – at least anecdotally from GQ’s straw-poll – is Bumble, which admits the key problem with most dating apps is us men. And so, on Bumble, only the women can contact you after you match: trawler fishermen not welcome. Yet we can’t help feel as though they are all the same app. They

even all sound alike. Say them in a row, and it’s like listening to a mechanic informing you of the work you need done on your car (“Your Tinder’s gone mate, the Hinge too; I need to get a Grindr in there. It’ll cost a Bumble at least...”). They all cater to everyone, and therefore to no one. Take a look at “traditional” forms of internet dating. Granted, signing up to the likes of match.com is now so perversely laborious and uncool it’s probably on the verge of getting hip again: like making your own artisanal cheese or brewing your own fruit wine. But they thrived by specialising. It’s long tail economics, essentially, only with way more sex. These range from the predictable (elitesingles.co.uk) to the frankly disturbing. There’s dead-meet.com for people who work in the funeral trade; clownpassions.com, for people really into clowns; and glutenfreesingles.com, for assholes. You can tell there’s a need, because we’re even now using non-hookup apps for hook-ups. How sex-360 of us! Ever since Uber added their UberPool option – allowing you to share your journey with others along the way for a greatly reduced cost – the Uber backseat has suddenly become a hook-up hotspot. GQ has a friend (yes, really) who once met a girl in the back of an LA car, and got her number in a cab ride that barely lasted 10 minutes. Efficient. As our US cousins recently put it on their website: “People are using Lyft to get laid now!” Yes, yes they are. Dating apps, clearly, need to catch up. They need to go niche. They need to cater for the dating world we live in. They need to go long tail. Here, then, GQ humbly suggests the dating apps that don’t currently exist, but should do. You’re welcome, universe.

Some individuals get ‘Tinder thumb’, wearing a groove into the glass

Would like to meet: dating apps that really work Six dream downloads that (if they actually existed) would seriously enhance your love life...

PRE-GOOGLD

GO EMOJI!

PICCHKHA!

SETTL

ALLABROAD

We all do it – some light Google stalking before every date. Nothing weird, just an interested 15 minutes or so checking out any particular burly ex-boyfriends on Instagram, or all-caps comments about Taylor Swift (either pro or anti is a worry). So let Pre-Googld do that legwork for you: everyone on PreGoogld comes with a fact-sheet compiled by Pre-Googld’s staf with the highlights.

Because there is nothing more annoying than going on the perfect first date, exchanging phone numbers and dreaming of a future together, only then to find she sends texts like a Japanese schoolgirl. People who like this sort of thing should stick to their own, and will therefore use Go Emoji! – the first dating app where people can only communicate via pileated ideograms.

An app specifically for people who have had professional photography with photoshopping done for their profile picture. By rounding all these people up into one app, it will mean the particular brand of disappointment you feel on meeting these people in the flesh – which is basically fraud – will at least be felt by both parties at the same time. This way, neither will feel hard done by.

Only available to men and women aged 35 and over. To register for Settl you must first tick a box that states, “I have given up on love – which is fine – I just don’t want to die alone surrounded by ready-meals and sadness.” The icon on your phone screen is a live counter of days left until you’re 40. For motivation.

What we really mean by, “If it’s not the same time zone, it’s not cheating” is: “There’s much less chance of getting caught.” Apps have made this easier, but also increased the chance of popping up on your other half’s friend’s dating app (“Isn’t that..?”). The solution? AllAbroad, the dating app that will only work outside your home timezone. Tagline: “Delete this app on the return flight, you dolt”.

36 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016

SPOTIFY AND CHILL Yes, “Netflix and chill” is for established couples, but watching House Of Cards before sex is not what a dating app sex storm ordered. Instead, use Spotify And Chill, the dating app that looks at the last ten songs played and matches you with people of similar taste. It will also automatically report you to the authorities if any are by Craig David.


I t a l y, P u g l i a .

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beat the casino !

p.40

tank bars

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billions

p.48

luxe lids

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gangster style

E D I T E D BY

THE

RISING

Photograph Stevie And Mada/Getty Images

S TA R

p.52

CHARLIE BURTON

Pole star: Teresa Palmer convinced Christian Bale she had a more exotic background than she actually did

TERESA Palmer is in her Los Angeles home, surrounded by security guards. Her house alarm went off at 3am and they’ve yet to discover why. “It was scary,” says the 30-year-old. “But I had my hunting knife next to me.” Naturally. After all, Palmer grew up on an Australian farm, where hunting knives were the norm, before moving from Adelaide to LA to parlay her ample charisma into screen presence. Just check 2013’s zombie comedy Warm Bodies, in which she charms the life back into Nicholas Hoult, or her performance this month in Terrence Malick’s Knight Of Cups. She plays a stripper and initially her co-star, Christian Bale, didn’t realise she was an actress. She spun him some fake backstory as she gyrated on a pole. “It was hilarious,“ she says, laughing. “He truly believed I was a stripper. I was like, ‘Well, thank you!’” This is a big year for Palmer (she stars in eight films, including Vince Vaughn’s Hacksaw Ridge), but her next outing is a horror, Lights Out, about ghostly figures appearing, yup, when the lights go out. “When you’re looking into pitch black your mind can take you to all sorts of crazy places.” Says the woman wielding a hunting knife. Alex Godfrey Knight Of Cups is out now JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 39


THE

BOOK TO

THE

POWER

READ

HOW TO WIN BIG Texas hold’em, blackjack, roulette – think those games are beholden to chance? Professional gamblers now argue otherwise. Adam Kucharski’s new book The Perfect Bet reveals how teams worldwide are racing to crack the seemingly uncrackable. Here’s what we learned.

SPORTS BETTING

THE art world is famously opaque: buyers, sellers, fixers, blaggers, what’s in, what’s out, and exactly who’s paying how much? to whom is all kept to a small cabal of those in the know. So why would you expect the dining room of choice for art’s elite to be anything other than a well-kept secret? To access Bonhams’ Michelin-starred restaurant, which has just extended its opening hours into the evening, one must turn up at an alleyway behind the auction house and head up a flight of stairs where a small dining room that seats just 20 awaits. Yet chef Tom Kemble’s outstanding, level-headed menu – poached ray wing, saddleback pork chop – combined with outrageously affordable prices, has major collectors and museum directors clamouring for a table in its convivial confines. In other words, book early. 7 Haunch Of Venison Yard, London, W1. 020 7468 5868. bonhams.com spo

t • ta b l

Where football results were once regarded as unpredictable, whole hedge funds are now dedicated to in-game betting – such as the London-based Fidens syndicate that launched in 2011 and now manages over £5 million.

In 2015, The University Of Alberta unveiled a computer program, Cepheus, which is unbeatable in heads-up limit hold’em. It learned by playing itself at a rate of 2,000 games per second.

Winners’ lessons: Analysts have discovered

that the clichés in football are mostly wrong, including the idea that attackers are vulnerable after a goal. The effect of red cards is also vastly overestimated by bookies, apparently, and the most valuable players are those who produce the most shots rather than the most goals.

the dealer always has the advantage, and that it’s smarter to raise or fold on the first go than call an opponent’s bet. Contrary to received wisdom, however, supposedly useless hands, such as a four and six in different suits, are actually worth playing – and even with a pair of aces it is rarely advisable to bet the maximum stake initially.

BLACKJACK

ROULETTE

Everyone knows about card counting from the film Bringing Down The House, but there’s a wealth of less-reported blackjack secrets out there.

This game is usually considered the epitome of randomness. Yet a 2012 research paper in the journal Chaos mentioned roulette-modelling experiments conducted in the Seventies. This intrigued two Hong Kong researchers, who continued the study using high-speed cameras to record how the ball behaved, and discovered that using a hidden stopwatch – and a set of mind-knotting equations – one could improve profits by 18 per cent. It’s this method that allowed a trio to walk away with a legal £1.3m haul from The Ritz casino.

Winners’ lessons: The machine has confirmed

Winners’ lessons: Statisticians show that

you should make your decision based on the dealer’s upturned “face card”, because casino rules dictate that dealers must stand when their total is greater than 16. So, if their face card is low, it’s likely they will have to draw several cards, which means there’s a greater chance they’ll go bust. For instance, a six implies the dealer has a 40 per cent chance of losing. Full crib notes can be found on blackjack-square.com.

Winners’ lesson: Get a maths PhD.

Out now (Profile Books, £12.99)

THE INSTA CLASSICS

Hosting a poker night? The Playing Arts Deck, V2 (£10.50, above) contains cards designed by 55 diferent artists. Buy it, and other decks that double as design objects, from artofplay.com.

Take a picture; it lasts longer. Even better, let Instagram do it for you. Here are the three funniest ’grams we’ve seen this month. Follow us @britishgq @dylanjonesgq

e

e

r

HEADS-UP POKER

he po is t w

he po is t w

11

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spo

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40 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016

@ T H E FATJ E W I S H

@ T U R N T F O R TO M

@ T H I R D E Y E _ K I N DAG U Y

The struggle used to be sooooooo much more real.

Why does Jeb look like he dropped out of the race so he could drop the hottest mixtape of 2016

Who wore it better??? #donaldtrump #corn #hair #wtf #lol #bruh


THE

TECH UP

GRADE

MOVIE NIGHTS, REIMAGINED

A few words about choosing a projector screen Here’s what you have to consider. As with most things in life, size matters in the sense that you don’t want a surface so big that it depletes the brightness of the image. You also need to consider gain – which indicates how good it is at reflecting light directly back at you rather than flinging it out into the room – and material, because rear speakers will benefit from a permeable screen. Finally, do you want one that’s motorised? Of course you do. We like the Duronic EPS80/43. £135. duronic.com JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 41


THE

LONDON SCENE

HIP HOPS? GO TO SOURCE A new wave of studiedly pared-back taprooms are brewing on-site and serving it up right there

crate brewery

canopy beer co

wild card brewery

call of the hall

Howling Hops moved from the basement of an East End boozer to its permanent premises last year, and bills itself as the “UK’s first dedicated tank bar”.

An upcycled utopia: the bar’s made from railway sleepers, the tables from scafold planks. Next door’s Brew Shed transforms into Crate’s events space at night.

Canopy Beer Co is a microbrewery housed in a disused Herne Hill railway arch. A no-frills tunnel of peeling paint and flickering fairy lights.

The beer hall teams its concoctions with a rotating roster of street food traders and live music. There are bookable “brew a beer” days when you can make your own.

the drinking situation

Ten tanks, a ten-metre bar and ten beers, including Howling Pils (4.6 per cent) and Ruby Red (5.2 per cent).

Nine brews, including the Lager (4.8 per cent, malty), the Golden Ale (3.8 per cent, zesty) and the Stout (5.7 per cent, velvety).

Five fine beers are available in cask, keykeg and bottles including Brockwell IPA (5.6 per cent), which has a fantastic fruity finish.

Stand-out sips in a raft of four include the light and refreshing King Of Hearts Blonde (4.5 per cent).

Want to venture beyond Crate’s pizza? Next door is dining complex Mick’s Garage, with its hip Middle Eastern grill house.

The artisanal pork pie selection is your friend.

beer bites

“BBQ bandit” Billy Smokes creates Americana with sustainable British ingredients.

Pizza pros Dough Bro recently began a six-month residency serving up Neapolitan-style wood-fired slices in the car park.

cool stool

Bag one of the few pews on Queen’s Yard for people-watching/ sunbathing.

takeaway value

Grab a “growler” (a half-gallon bottle with a handle) and return regularly for refills.

the deets

Unit 9A, Queen’s Yard, White Post Lane, London E9. howlinghops.co.uk

howling hops

THE

RUMOUR MILL

by alex wickham

42 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016

Bag one of the rickety tables amid the exposed apparatus of the brewing kit.

An al fresco picnic table means first dibs on the pizza.

Bring the party home with one of Crate’s variety boxes. Limitededition runs in cans are also available.

Buy bottled or bag-in-a-box beer – or present guests with a two-pint hopper. That’s a carton full of amber nectar.

Five online retailers sell Wild Card beer (bottleapostle.com is one); bottles and kegs can also be bought on site.

Unit 7, Queen’s Yard, Hackney Wick, London E9. cratebrewery.com

Arch 1127, Bath Factory Estate, 41 Norwood Rd, London SE24. canopybeer.com

Shernhall Street, London E17. wildcardbrewery. co.uk

Take up a spot by the boat moorings.

Ambitious Dr Liam Fox is wining and dining the 50 southwest Tory MPs. Colleagues have a theory: once he has enough support to bid for the leadership, he’ll make a deal with one of the frontrunners whereby he pulls out of the race in return for a top cabinet position.

Smooth-talking Chuka Umunna scored an own goal at Stamford Bridge while delivering a speech praising FA chairman Greg Dyke. Umunna, a Crystal Palace fan, confused Dyke with cabinet minister Greg Clark and called him the wrong name. Twice.

Buoyed by referendum fever, Nigel Farage placed a four-figure bet on Exit Europe, the horse owned by his party treasurer, to win at Lingfield. Sadly for him, the filly pulled up injured mid-race and Nige lost his money. An omen as polling day approaches?

Nicky Clarke

Lib Dem leader Tim Farron addressed a new demographic. “We have a lot in common,” he told a group of motorcyclists. The wheels came of when they asked if he’s a biker. “You could say I’ve done all the biker things,” he replied, “except owning a bike.”

Splashdown: After releasing his new album, Flume is intent on making waves in grime Shirt by Prada, £1,085. prada.com. T-shirt by Sandro, £380. uk.sandroparis.com. Jeans by Pepe Jeans, £80. pepejeans.com. Trainers by Jimmy Choo, £425. jimmychoo.com


THE

Photographs Sandrine and Michael; Alamy Styling Sam Carder Grooming Keiichiro Hirano

ENJOY THE RIDE?

ALBUM TO

HEAR

LYING in a sensory deprivation flotation tank, DJ and music producer Flume became fixated on the alien nature of his own body. “The water is full of salt, the lights are off and you just float in the dark for an hour,” Global dance music explains Flume, aka Harley megastar Flume Streten, “so I just started hopes that his next looking at my hands.” The project will make you experience provided a name for feel uncomfortable his otherworldly second album, Skin. “I want it to make people feel uncomfortable.” The Australian 24-year-old wrote elements in the back of a taxi, timing their woozy rhythms to the car’s swerving. Streten got hooked on electronic music aged eleven and began creating tracks in his bedroom after getting a production program free with a cereal box. He soon tired of mixing other people’s output (“I get bored of all music incredibly quickly”) and went hostelling around Europe while writing his debut album on his laptop. Flume beat One Direction in the charts and lead single “Holdin On” was an instant hit. That was back in 2012. Four years on, and Streten is finally about to release Skin (though its single “Never Be Like You” is already making waves in the clubs). Reflecting Streten’s eclectic taste, half of the record is avant-garde and the other traditional pop. “I wanted to marry the two genres and make experimental music accessible.” So what’s next – aside from his Wild Life and Parklife festival slots? A foray into grime (“I’m drawn to its tonal coldness”), and an exhibition of new instruments that he intends to invent from scratch. “One would involve gq intel a piece of driftwood “the Australian and a synthesiser, sound” is a dance music and another a trend to watch. if you sandstone block.” like flume, check out chet faker, wave racer Just an average day and ta-ku. in the Flumiverse. Eleanor Halls

Skin is out on 27 May. JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 43


Light of fancy: Lucid Stead mirrored cabin installed by artist Phillip K Smith III in Joshua Tree, California

Arbor master: A.Masow Architects designed this four storey, one bed Kazakh Glass Tree House in a spiral around a tree

Want more? We recommend the new book Cabin Porn (Penguin, £20)

DESIGN PAG E

CABIN FEVER

EVER since the “boarding house on Mars” that is Chile’s European Southern Observatory hotel – an industrial-looking lodging for on-shift scientists and engineers sited in the middle of the barren Atacama Desert – featured in the 2008 James Bond film Quantum Of Solace, a trend for wilderness architecture started to gather pace in the design world. Now, serious practices are turning their hands to creating stylish bolt holes in inhospitable environments and efforts have recently coalesced around one clear archetype: the cabin. These modern riffs on an originally Scandinavian mainstay come in a variety of guises and locations but one common theme is minimalism. The structures are all about luxuriously embracing the landscape rather than interrupting it. These are our favourites... CB

Pacific views: The construction and materials of this New Zealand retreat aim to merge with the outside landscape

44 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016

Thin air: Zaha Hadid Architects built this museum in South Tyrol 2,275 metres above sea level for climber Reinhold Messner

Sanctuary: This replacement for a 50-year-old Alpine storm shelter was airlifted on to Skuta Mountain by the Slovakian army

Photographs Anže Čokl; Simon Devitt/Patterson Associates Ltd; Zaha Hadid Architects; Steve King/Courtesy Royale Projects – Contemporary Art; A Masow Architects

THE


THE

TV SHOW

TAKE THE BILLIONS MBA

Billions follows hedge fund hotshot Bobby “Axe” Axelrod as his firm comes under scrutiny from a new US attorney. It’s Wall Street porn: back-stabbing and maximalist excess. Want to join the 0.01 per cent yourself? Just follow Axe’s example...* 1 Demonstrate why you’re the boss

2 Reward loyalty

3 Do thorough research

4 Be charitable

5 Don’t be afraid to cut your losses

6 Indulge once in a while

48 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016

When two of Axe’s traders recommend buying stock in a pharmaceutical company, Axe suspects a rival is attempting to pump-and-dump. (The firm tried to disguise the trade by doing it at lunch time – wimps.) “My cholesterol is high enough,” Axe sneers to his traders. “Don’t butter my ass – just be smarter.”

Axe keeps his underlings motivated by alternating between fear and reward. Lavish “comp” (salary), surprise bonuses and an in-house therapist for impromptu pick-me-up speeches: “You’re in the Navy Seals. Did the Navy Seals make a mistake in signing you up? No, they did not. The Seals do not make mistakes.”

“Whenever you can, put a company in your mouth,” Axe advises a new hire. In other words, knowledge is power. And if getting it involves your employees breaking into a warehouse by night? Well, you don’t know anything about that.

Like Mark Zuckerberg and Bill Gates, a modern billionaire shares their wealth – which is why Axe will freely donate $1 million at a charity dinner, then buy the venue. (If that happens to settle a lifelong grudge with the previous owners? All for a good cause.) As Axe’s COO advises: “People who don’t ‘have it’ [admire] billies better who spend on other folk.”

Deal going bad? Sometimes you need to alpha up and take it, like Axe’s hero Rocky. When his lifelong friend betrays him for financial gain, Axelrod helps him out, and then cuts him loose. “I don’t hold on to a loser. The moment it doesn’t feel right, let it go.”

Sometimes it’s good to reward yourself for a deal well done, even if others (your partner, friends, lawyers) disagree. As Axe says after buying a beachfront mansion in the Hamptons: “What’s the point in having f***-you money, if you can’t say f*** you?” Oli Franklin-Wallis Billions starts this month on Sky Atlantic.

THE

POLITICAL TREND

“THE really frightening thing about totalitarianism,” George Orwell once wrote in the Tribune newspaper, “is not that it commits ‘atrocities’ but that it attacks the concept of objective truth.” It says something about the state of our politics, then, that “objective truth” seems under threat in neoliberal democracies. You see, a peculiar feature of this vote-laden year – London mayoral, American presidential and EU referendum – is the number of commentators having to dust off their Descartes and pontificate on matters epistemological, because “truth”, in the abstract sense, is becoming a surprisingly hot topic. That’s a product of two forces: on the one hand, politicians have taken to the rhetoric of unreality, claiming that their opponents are incapable of perceiving fact (“This transport stuff we are hearing from Sadiq Khan is fantasy nonsense,” said Zac Goldsmith during his mayoral campaign); on the other, there’s a new relativism among voters – the sense, spurred by information overload, that we no longer have accepted standards against which to assess veracity. All of which explains the rise and rise of “political fact checking” services. A trend that ignited in 2012 around the RomneyObama race and has exploded in 2016, a raft of sites such as America’s politifact.com or Britain’s fullfact.org are now attempting to re-establish cold, hard truth in political discourse. Though if you really want to know whether a politician is lying, you could, of course, use the old fashioned technique: watch their lips. See if they move. CB

*If you don’t mind facing a criminal investigation Photographs JoJo Whilden/SHOWTIME

Money talks: Damian Lewis as Bobby Axelrod and Paul Giamatti as Chuck Rhoades in Billions


THE

TREND

HAT TIP 2 Pulling it down low over your eyes à la Leo is really only necessary if you’re a celebrity going incognito, and even then it’s pretty inefectual.

REPORT

PEAKS AND RECREATION As with many style staples recently revived from way back when (here’s looking at you, sky-blue denim), the baseball cap has returned in a considerably more upscale guise. And also with an implicit caution: handle with care. These are the rules to observe...

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ul

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£5 th,

5. p

au

Photographs Matthew Beadle

Cap by Buscemi, £305. harveynichols.com

GQ

BAND Do something different this month; tune into these new sounds...

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th .

co

HAT TIP 1 Are you a hip-hop star? Keep your bill flat. Everyone else? Bend the sides down.

HAT TIP 3 The brim’s direction is a projection of you. Be front and centre rather than, well, backwards.

HAT TIP 4 Those stickers and tags that come with some caps? Get rid. Anyone worth impressing won’t care if it’s box fresh. HAT TIP 5 Optimum use: outdoors, in the sun. Suboptimal use: indoors, with a suit. HAT TIP 6 Get. One. That. Fits. Your. Head.

.uk

Cap by Neil Barrett, £240. harrods.com

Cap by Penfield, £35. penfield.com

Cap by Ralph Lauren, £25. ralphlauren.co.uk

Cap by Maison Michel, £415. matchesfashion.com

into

into

into

into

into

THE STROKES?

PULP?

GRIMES?

BLUR?

THE CURE?

try

try

try

try

try

YAK

KATE JACKSON

JESSY LANZA

OSCAR

EAGULLS

This London trio’s debut is a shot of pure psychedelic rock’n’roll. It also doesn’t hurt that frontman Oli Burslem could pass for a young Mick Jagger.

The former Long Blondes frontwoman is a natural-born storyteller and her first solo album is a literate kind of indie rock.

Nominated for Canada’s Polaris Prize for her 2013 album Pull My Hair Back, Lanza returns with more awardworthy electronica.

Oscar Scheller has a reputation for crafting pop music alone on a laptop. On this long-awaited debut, his songs fill the sky.

This Leeds five-piece are known for their exhilarating live shows, but this second album proves they’re also capable of writing with emotional heft.

Alas Salvation is out now.

British Road Movies is out on 20 May.

Oh No is out on 13 May.

Cut And Paste is out on 13 May.

Ullages is out on 13 May. JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 51


(RE)VIVA LA REVOLUCIÓN!

THE

PHOTO

The publication of a classic Castro interview alongside 200 unseen images offers a rare glimpse into a Cuba that will soon disappear

BOOK

AS we all know, there’s a new era of change taking place in Cuba. In December 2014, Barack Obama saw fit to “cut loose the shackles of the past” and restore diplomatic relations with the regime founded by Fidel Castro. The journey towards this thaw, however, started in the Sixties and became bound up with a 1967 book of in-depth interviews and unprecedented photography: Lee Lockwood’s Castro’s Cuba. Now, Taschen is publishing Lockwood’s extraordinary volume with 200 unseen images – a gaze over the shoulder as the country looks ahead. Castro’s Cuba by Lee Lockwood is out this month (Taschen, £44.99). Wonder wall: Public art depicting revolutionary leaders

fidel castro, 5 january 1959

foreign trade building, 1967

Lee Lockwood arrived in Cuba on 31 December 1958, the day before Castro seized power. It took the American a week to find the new leader; the pair eventually met en route from the Sierra Maestra mountains to Havana. They struck up a friendship that would lead to a marathon seven-day interview.

Lockwood’s archive contains hundreds of images documenting a version of Cuba that is fast fading as a result of its new relationship with the US. The ministry captured in this shot, with graphic additions characteristic of the era, was the former headquarters of  the CMQ radio station.

THE

TV RIFF

STREET SMARTS The real-world gang fictionalised in Peaky Blinders wasn’t the only historical mob with a defined sense of style. Ahead of the show’s third series (starting on 5 May), a taxonomy... CB

1

2

3

4

5

PEAKY BLINDERS 1880s-1900s, Birmingham

SCUTTLERS 1870s, Manchester

BOWERY BOYS c1830s-1860s, New York

LES APACHES 1900s-1910s

KABUKIMONO 1596-1615, Japan

Wardrobe essentials: Proto-hipster: beret, striped shirt, huge red sash belt. Signature weapon: The “Apache pistol” – an all-in-one revolver, knuckle duster and dagger.

Wardrobe essentials: Short kimonos, wide sash belt, long hair and, occasionally, women’s clothes. Signature weapon: “Katana” samurai swords and sharpened “kiseru” smoking pipes.

Wardrobe essentials: Peaked cap, waistcoat, brass-buttoned jacket. Signature weapon: Supposedly razoredged cap brims, but this has been disputed by historians.

52 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016

Wardrobe essentials: “Donkey fringe” haircut (short back and sides with a long front); colourful neckerchief. Signature weapon: A heavily buckled belt wrapped tightly around the wrist.

Wardrobe essentials: Stovepipe hat, red shirt, Uncle Sam beard. Signature weapon: Knives – or ice picks – often used against their sworn rivals, the Dead Rabbits.

Photographs Lee Lockwood/TASCHEN Illustrations David Mahoney

A week in politics: Lee Lockwood’s 1959 interview with Castro lasted seven days


What a ride: The Llandudno foursome won the British Breakthrough gong at the Brits

B R I N G YO U R

‘A’ GAME

No 18 RUN LIKE A PRO The right form will help you keep back and knee injuries at bay (and save face on the track)…

1 Avoid shuling – not lifting your heels will make you land ahead of your centre of gravity and damage your Achilles tendon. Instead, kick your heels back 90 degrees to engage the powerful glutes and hamstrings.

2 Bend your elbows at 90 degrees so that they come out behind you. This propels your body forward and allows you to attain optimum rhythm.

TO

KNOW

CATFISH AND THE BOTTLEMEN

IF you were plotting musical success in 2016, you probably wouldn’t start in Llandudno, form a garage rock band or name yourselves something as objectively terrible as Catfish And The Bottlemen. Yet that’s what Van McCann did, and since releasing the debut album, The Balcony, in September 2014 his band have hit the top ten, sold out London’s Brixton Academy in five minutes flat and just picked up a Brit for British Breakthrough Act. Now they’re capitalising on their momentum with a new album, The Ride. “The title seemed apt,” says McCann. “The last couple of years have been mad. I went to a bar in Camden where we played one of our first London gigs the other day and thought: ‘We couldn’t even fit our gear there now, never mind the full band.’” Catfish’s Oasis-indebted sing-along rock, combined with McCann’s Mike Skinneresque ability to write engagingly about everyday life, has connected with fans the world over. “We played in Chicago recently, and afterwards somebody showed us a video of a fan who’d had too much to drink,” says guitarist Johnny Bond. 54 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016

“She was downstairs in the medical room and she was still singing along to every word in between retches. That’s dedication.” Now, their sights are set well beyond arena shows. “We went to see Beyoncé and Jay-Z play in Central Park and the buzz was amazing,” says McCann. “I want to have that sea of people, like those Stones shows back when they shut off a whole city.” In other words, no matter what you think of their name, they don’t plan on letting you forget it. Kevin Perry The Ride is out on 27 May.

3 Hands: imagine you’re holding a butterfly between your thumbs and forefingers. This will help you keep your arms relaxed – and the more relaxed your arms, the faster you will run.

4 Make sure you aren’t leaning forwards, as it uses your quads and hip flexors incorrectly. It’s crucial to keep your posture upright and your gaze straight.

5 Holding an iPhone while you run will interrupt cross lateral body movement. But do keep one on your belt: music can boost performance by 20 per cent. Research shows that Eminem’s “Lose Yourself” ofers the best rhythm. No, really.

Photograph Jordan Curtis Hughes Illustrations Dave Hopkins Running advice Mike Antoniades of The Running School. runningschool.co.uk

THE

BAND


#LOVEMYCOTTON Purity. Quality. Responsibility. Find out more at cottonusa.co.uk


‘ The band made us ultra confident. We didn’t realise how much some people hated us’

Stay beautiful (from left): Manic Street Preachers’ James Dean Bradfield, Sean Moore, Nicky Wire and Richey Edwards, photographed in Japan, 1992 58 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016


HEROES

STORY BY

Mark Russell

PHOTOGRAPH BY

Koh Hasebe

Twenty years on from Everything Must Go – the record that changed them from agitprop radicals to stadium-illing stars – Wales’ glam-punk demagogues tell GQ why coming of age in Gwent geared them up for a life of provocation and how the tragic disappearance of bandmate Richey Edwards inspired Britpop’s most powerful record

JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 59


Retouching Paperhatftp.co.uk

PHOTOGRAPH BY

David Bailey

The everlasting (from left): Moore, Wire and Bradfield, outside the photographer’s studio in London, 2016 60 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016


HEROES

t’s the morning after the Brit awards the night before, and James Dean Bradfield is feeling drained. The lead singer and guitarist of the Manic Street Preachers is refuelling at the café opposite the band’s studio when I arrive, and just before I leave, four hours later, he’s curled up, snoozing catlike on a sofa in front of a cabinet that proudly holds a row of four Brit statuettes. Not that the gongs, or the fuzzy head, were collected at the previous night’s industry shindig; the last of the band’s wins came 17 years ago. And as for the unshakable tiredness? Well, that comes with the territory when you have a newborn in the house. “When I watched the Brits on TV last night I thought, ‘That doesn’t bear much resemblance to what I was involved with.’ Everything is about high production values and loads of dancers,” says Bradfield. “And I just do not care about music being interpreted by dance. Ever.” We’re sitting down to talk in the control room on the ground floor of the band’s two-storey space, in which they have created a glorious man-cave, or “youth club for the over-forties”, as Bradfield puts it. This floor houses the studio where they have recorded since 2008, complete with mixing desk from Rockfield Studios (“Rush, The Teardrop Explodes, Queen’s Night At The Opera...” Bradfield proudly reels off the big names who have availed themselves of it). Upstairs is where the Manics’ magic really happens. It’s part sixth-form common room, part potting shed and part gang hut, complete with sofas and a sizeable television, a variety of guitars, a punch bag, signed Gareth Bale and British and Irish Lions shirts and a wall on which images of the band’s own icons have been cut and pasted – all sitting alongside further pop-cultural paraphernalia accrued over a quarter of a century.

“It does seem like a different kind of language,” Nicky Wire, the band’s bassist, lyricist and mouthpiece says when asked how the previous night’s event compares with the 1997 Brit awards, at which they won their first Best Group and Best Album double (they went on to pull off a second dual-trophy heist in 1999). “It’s so sleek and slick. It was just chaos when we won. I made a speech about comprehensives! You had people lying on the floor smashed out of their heads, genuinely. It was completely different.” It was Cool Britannia’s high noon, a night that produced some of the most enduring images of that decade, thanks largely to a Spice Girl and a Union Jack dress. But scooping the main prizes were the Manic Street Preachers, a Welsh rock band already four albums in, Britpop outsiders still smarting from a couple of highly traumatic years. The loss of their bandmate and childhood friend Richey Edwards had left them staring into the abyss – but somehow they had managed to turn away and make the sublime Everything Must Go. A classic, perfectly constructed rock album, it would go on to sell millions, with a stand-out single – “Design For Life” – that would become “a kind of alternative national anthem”, as Wire now puts it. And while this triumph marked one of the most unexpected comebacks in rock history, it was, for this band, just one of many unlikely chapters in an extraordinarily painful, romantic and fascinating back story.

t’s one thing to have wide-eyed, grand designs for your band, but quite another to proclaim that you’ll release a debut double album, sell 16 million copies “from Bangkok to Senegal” and then split up. That, however, was precisely the Manic Street Preachers’ oft-stated aim (to anyone

who’d listen) before they’d recorded barely a note. Quite where the scale of this ambition had come from is not immediately apparent; the former mining town of Blackwood, Gwent (pop: 8,496), was not the most auspicious of surroundings for an embryonic rock band in the late Eighties. Or now, for that matter. But for childhood friends Nick Jones, Richey Edwards, James Dean Bradfield and his cousin Sean Moore, teenage boredom – sparking against fierce intellects and the desire for a life beyond their immediate geography – combined to fire an insatiable interest in everything. Art, film, literature, political theory, philosophy, pop culture and, in particular, music; anything, basically, that could be absorbed, discussed and dissected by the quartet as they whiled away the hours at each other’s houses. “In our brand of icons, Marilyn Monroe and Stan Bowles weren’t that different from each other, or Alex ‘Hurricane’ Higgins,” says Wire of their interests. “We’ve always had that love of high art and low art, I don’t think there’s any difference for us.” Fierce debates would rage in their bedrooms when, by their own admission, they should have been out necking jars and girls instead. “We were massively rejected by girls at that point, we were complete f***ing oddballs,” admits Wire, who is now 47, like the rest of the band. “We were chronically shy. Me and James in particular were really bad around girls, I mean really bad. Really bad.” By 1988 they’d settled on the idea of forming a band, with Bradfield busy learning the guitar parts for Guns N’Roses’ Appetite For Destruction from start to finish and his cousin – a classically trained trumpeter who’d played on National Union Of Miners marches – drafted in on drums. Jones, by now adopting his nickname Wire, and Edwards (who was yet to join the band in any official capacity

Photographs Camera Press; Getty Images

‘Nick and Richey were completely Hanoi Rocks – hair, Kylie T-shirts, purple denim, necklaces. They never swerved from looking beautiful’

Postcards from a young man (from left): James Dean Bradfield, on stage in 1992; Sean Moore during the Holy Bible tour, 1994; Richey Edwards, from a 1992 NME cover shoot; Nicky Wire performs at the Phoenix Festival in 1996 JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 61


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HEROES until his return from university a year or so later) set about putting their obsessions into lyrics and using everything they’d learnt about pop culture to sculpt the band’s image in great detail. They knew that if they wanted to get noticed in the Valleys – in an era when the only time they’d ever seen their hometown on TV was during the miners’ strikes – it would take something special. “There was a kind of intellectual process which basically went: bombard the right journalists with the right letters and the music will come,” says Wire of their strategy. “We could tell really quickly that James was something special on the guitar. Insanely, we thought that we could literally change the cultural tide of baggy and dance music.” It paid off, with their self-financed debut, “Suicide Alley”, reaching legendary NME writer Stephen Wells, who made it single of the week. With no record deal and just a handful of songs to their name, the Manic Street Preachers had become a DIY, cut’n’paste punk rock hype machine with a crystal-clear vision of where they wanted to go, what was wrong with the music industry and how they were going to fix it. It was while outlining this vision to thenNME journalist Steve Lamacq after a gig at Norwich Arts Centre in 1991 that Edwards would do something that would result in one of the most infamous photographs in rock history. As Lamacq, now a BBC 6 Music DJ, challenged him on the authenticity of his band’s statements of intent, Edwards’ response was to take out a razor blade and, slowly and calmly, while still holding Lamacq’s conversational gaze, slice the characters “4REAL” into his forearm. Photographer Ed Sirrs was there to capture the moment: Edwards, pale in his faded, purple Clash-esque shirt and neckerchief, holding out his arm almost apologetically

but with hauntingly determined doe eyes. That image made it onto the pages of NME, and from then on anyone who knew about music knew who the Manic Street Preachers were. As for Edwards: however painfully, he’d made his point. Their bombast, not to mention the quotes which Wire and Edwards would happily fire off to journalists (“The only good thing about America is that you killed John Lennon” – Wire; “We will always hate [the band] Slowdive more than Hitler” – Edwards) meant that in the early days their press profile far outweighed their music sales. “The band made us ultra confident,” says Wire. “Indestructibly confident, and it did get hairy in those early days. We didn’t realise how much some people hated us being like we were.” Not that spouting off didn’t bring its own perils. “The first time we played Reading, I walked on stage and the crowd loved us, which was amazing. And then I just said something like, ‘You lot f***ing stink and look disgusting,’” laughs Wire. “I could see James thinking, ‘We’ve just come on and people really like us – what have you got to say that for?’ I smashed my guitar up at the end and chucked it in the audience, but it didn’t reach them – it hit a security guard and smashed his collarbone. So I ran off site with my brother, got on the train at Reading station and was back in my mum and dad’s house to watch Match Of The Day at half past ten.” The air of antagonism and anarchy at early Manics gigs is something to which Rob Stringer can attest. Now chairman of Columbia Records and a long-time friend of the band, he was instrumental in signing them to the label in 1991. “I remember taking people to see them at the Cambridge University Ball and James punching out a student for shouting insults,” he tells me. “There were three or four people

from the label there and they were horrified. They were like, ‘What have we signed here?’” Another aspect of the nascent Manic Street Preachers that raised eyebrows was their wardrobe, which defied the muted, monochromatic indie uniform of the era. Essentially it was a charity-shop mash-up of New York Dolls, Hanoi Rocks, Bet Lynch and early Clash – challenging enough without having to hone the look in a hometown with dress codes as conservative as the politics are socialist, where the concept of “outré” clothes usually centres around wearing the wrong rugby shirt. “I remember walking up the high street when we were 17 or 18,” says Bradfield. “There were some boys from the rugby club and there was a bit of an atmosphere because they’d just played and there’d been a fight. It was like, ‘Who are those poofs?’ Nick and Richey were completely Hanoi Rocks – hair everywhere, Kylie T-shirts, purple denim, necklaces... I was thinking, ‘It’s going to kick off.’ I knew they sensed it as well but they never, ever swerved from their sense of purpose and of looking beautiful. Quite a gutsy thing to do.” Bradfield, whose short but neatly muscular frame is scrum half to Wire’s tall and broadshouldered second-row lock, admits that the band were never going to sing from the same hymn sheet on some of the finer details of the aesthetic: “I remember once trying to put a bit of eyeliner on and Richey was like, ‘You look like one of my uncles who used to go down the pits and couldn’t get rid of the coal dust in their eyes.’ I knew exactly what he was on about.” (I can empathise greatly here. One of the more regrettable episodes of my own Manics obsession was a brief attempt to rock their style at a university Christmas ball. In addition to constantly fielding questions that night as

Photographs Camera Press; Getty Images; Press Association

‘The Brits today are so sleek and slick. It was just chaos when we won. You had people lying on the floor smashed out of their heads’

Slash ’n’ burn (from left): Richey Edwards at the Norwich Arts Centre in 1991 after his confrontation with Steve Lamacq; the Manics use their iconic DIY aesthetic to promote a 1991 gig at the Marquee, London; the band, photographed in 1990 in customised clothing

to whether I’d come dressed as Eddie Izzard, I learned the girl I thought I’d been dating had also been sleeping with a meathead, one who even now I regard as one of the most disagreeable people I’ve ever met. Draped in a faux fur coat and leopard print blouse, with kohl ringed around your watering eyes, is no condition in which to discover you’ve been two-timed.) When the Manic Street Preachers’ debut album finally arrived in 1992 it didn’t, ultimately, sell the 16 million they’d promised – but it should be pointed out that the actual sales (1.56 per cent of the original prediction) were still enough to be certified as gold. Generation Terrorists might well be musically raw and limited, somewhere between straightforward rock and Guns N’ Roses hair metal, but JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 63


HEROES contacted the police about Edwards’ disappearthe one standout track, “Motorcycle In a short space of time, the Manic Street ance; his car was found two weeks later, parked Emptiness”, is an anthemic, radio-friendly Preachers had gone from Valley misfits to global belter. Easily the best anticonsumerism at a motorway service station on the M48 by rock stars – an achievement confirmed upon song ever written, it provides a firm clue to the Severn Bridge. It appeared to have been their arrival for an eye-opening tour of Japan. Bradfield’s ability to write the catchiest of lived in for some time. He’d been withdrawing “We turned up at the airport and there were melodies to the most cerebral subject matter. the maximum daily cash machine allowance for hundreds of fans there. We literally looked Lyrically, both their intellect and their ambition the fortnight prior to his disappearance; he’d behind us because we really thought the Black had been laid out elsewhere on the album in shaved all his hair off; he’d been acting strange Crowes must be coming through First Class,” anticapitalism anthems (“Nat West – Barclays for weeks. There was a raft of supposed clues says Wire. “It was just bedlam. Every hotel that – Midlands – Lloyds”), antimonarchical rants and hints to his motivations up to that point, you went to there were 200 people in the lobby, (“Repeat”) and a duet with porn star Traci but guesswork and supposition is all they are. thousands chasing you on the bullet train...” Lords about female sexual exploitation (“Little Even though Edwards had been battling Within a year the Manics had started work Baby Nothing”). It’s peppered with words like demons for some time, his mental health had on Gold Against The Soul, a polished, seemingly “suicide”, “alienation”, “boredom”, “culture”, commercial-sounding second album that become increasingly fragile around the time “democracy” and layers of cultural reference turned out to be just as problematic as music of The Holy Bible’s release, no doubt exacerindustry convention dictates. However, their bated by his increasing use of alcohol. As a from Rimbaud, Larkin and Plath to Orwell, next album was a lurch away from anything student he’d started using vodka as a sleep Nietzsche and Marilyn Monroe (but not, sadly, that could be considered mass-market. aid and this had escalated over the years, with Stan Bowles). In short, it’s the ultimate reading The Holy Bible is intense, dark, introverted Edwards later claiming, variously, he needed list for angst-ridden, outsider-status teenagers and something of a masterpiece. Musically, it’s drink to sleep, stabilise or forget. During the the world over, all wrapped up in leopard-print and eyeliner. What’s not to like? an accomplished work, incorporating jagged summer of 1994 he’d been admitted to a psypunk, industrial goth and distorted grunge, chiatric hospital in Cardiff and then to the This mix of white-hot intellect, unashamed pretension and nonconformist sex appeal was with Bradfield’s guitar standing out over a Priory in Roehampton, where he received a potent one, earning them a devoted following, rhythm section that’s tight to the point of six weeks’ treatment before rejoining the which for the most part stays unchanged claustrophobia. It is, however, the lyrics that band on tour that autumn – culminating in to this day. As their biogtheir last ever appearrapher Simon Price put ance as a four-piece at it: “The Manic Street the London Astoria a few Preachers are the only days before Christmas. British band since The Following the news of Smiths who – and this his disappearance there is rather old-fashioned came the morbidly excit– mean something. And able tabloid tales of the for the people to whom “wild rebel of rock” and they mean anything, they “cult pop guitarist”, mean everything.” most of which couldn’t I can vouch for this. I have been more wrong From despair to where (from left): Released between 1992 and 1996 with ever-escalating sales, only really got hooked in terms of their characthe classic albums Generation Terrorists, The Holy Bible and Everything Must Go spanned after a Glastonbury ter assessment; then the a four-year period of loss, recovery and triumph for the Manic Street Preachers Festival at the turn of the fan “sightings” across the century, years after I’d first heard “Motorcycle world, from Goa to Fuerteventura, reports of set the album apart: anorexia, the Holocaust, which continued for years. His disappearEmptiness”. My epiphany was not to be found prostitution, self-harm, serial killers... no in the Saturday-night headlining show ance was a fascination to many but remained subject was too bleak to tackle. Edwards, who (however good it actually turned out to be), heartbreaking for his family and the band. wrote around three-quarters of the lyrics, had but rather in the interviews I’d read in the always been open about the severe bouts of Even now, 21 years on, no one knows exactly run-up: Nicky Wire being asked why he’d once depression, anorexia and self-harm he’d sufwhat happened to Edwards – although after said he wished REM’s Michael Stipe would “go fered all his adult life, but had never been quite 13 torturous years for his loved ones he was the same way as Freddie Mercury” (the two so unrestrained in his writing before. Critically officially presumed dead in 2008. bands were topping the bill that year) and lauded at the time, The Holy Bible is a perennial When I interviewed Bradfield more than a whether he regretted expressing, on their last fan favourite and remains a regular in “all-time decade ago, while Edwards was officially still appearance at the nation’s premier New Age greatest” lists. But, however futile and often missing, the singer was frank in saying that gathering, a hope that they’d “build a bypass he could completely understand why people misleading as it may be to do so, it’s hard to over this shithole”; the acres of attitude accomsaw a mythical appeal in his bandmate’s dislisten to the record and not scan for clues as panied by artfully sleazy rock’n’roll poses; appearance. It’s fair to say that the Manics to what would take place just after its release. then on top of this, the brains to go with it. have shown admirable patience with inquisiAt the tail-end of A-level study, on my n the morning of 1 February 1995, tive fans and journalists nursing an obsession own desperate quest to consume as much James Dean Bradfield waited for with something that happened more than 20 information and culture as I could and with a Richey Edwards in the lobby of years ago. deep yearning to be a rock star (or at the very If anything, though, he feels the band were London’s Embassy Hotel; the pair least look good in tight jeans), this was the were due to travel to Heathrow probably too open in talking about Edwards’ band for me. There was just so much to get and begin another crack at America. His friend disappearance. “I do look back at some interinto; that for me, then and now, is what a band views and I regret them because you could view didn’t show up, and never would again. By the should provide – a world beyond the music. it like we were trapped in that situation following day, the band’s management had

O  

64 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016


! w o n e On sal Available in print and for phone and tablet from the App Store and Google Play


HEROES but we were almost too willing to talk about it. I was still quite a young 26 or 27, still suspended by the experience of being in a band and that makes you a tiny bit younger. We made mistakes. You read some of it and sometimes I think it’s that Spinal Tap cod psychology, interpreting somebody else’s supposed motivation.” Bradfield, Wire and Moore spent the subsequent months waiting for news, before gradually facing up to the possibility – however remote or certain – that answers might never come. For most observers at the time, the most likely expectation was that the Manic Street Preachers would split up. “Every day stretched out, like the shittest nightmare ever,” is Wire’s succinct memory of that period. “In the end we just said let’s just try to be with each other and write a song and see what it feels like,” says Bradfield. The first song out of the blocks was “Design For Life”, a record that Bradfield describes as “like a lifeline”. He sang it down the phone to Wire and said, “I think we’ve cracked it.” As well as the release and relief provided by the band working together again, Sean Moore believes that their dedication served another purpose, however far in the back of

order a BLT or whatever; it was always then. It was very bittersweet,” says Bradfield. “The dust would settle and you’d be left with your own thoughts. And for a long time it always came down to, ‘I wonder whether Richey would have hated that or liked it?’ I can’t know.”

T  

wo years after the considerable sales, critical acclaim and awards for Everything Must Go, the band went one better with This Is My Truth Tell Me Yours. It earned two Brit Awards again, for Best Album and Best Group, but a further double in their first No1 album and No1 single with “If You Tolerate This Your Children Will Be Next”. The title is taken from a Spanish Civil War poster – testament again to their ability to write a damn catchy tune with the unlikeliest of subjects. This achievement remains a source of immense pride to Wire and, in this respect, their next No1 “Masses Against The Classes” was even more impressive. A socialist anthem inspired by a William Gladstone statement, the song starts with a Noam Chomsky quote and ends with one by Albert Camus. Somehow, this managed to be the first newly released No1 single of the Millennium, knocking Westlife

– act; this summer’s Everything Must Go 20th anniversary tour will include a date at Swansea City’s Liberty Stadium and two shows at the Royal Albert Hall. “We’re one of those bands where people are always quite shocked at the scale of venues we’re doing,” says Wire. “We exist in a weird kind of hinterland of that never-been-in-that-superband bracket.” As Wire admits, the band never really went away, remaining culturally relevant while those acts whose longevity you’d have put money on have long since disappeared – “They’ve weathered beautifully,” as Rob Stringer puts it. The Manics, incidentally, are now the band of choice for their homeland, with their official Welsh team anthem for Euro 2016 poignantly titled “Stronger Together (C’mon Wales)”. No one has ever wanted them to go away, and why would we when they still offer so much in terms of not just music but personality; fascination; everything. It’s great that Coldplay and Adele win Brit awards, but seriously, when did anyone want to dress like them, quote them, consume books, films and politics like they do? Wire, of course, has a more modest assessment: “I think the band is underrated because we’ve never stopped. Everyone has watched us grow old. We’ve outworked everyone.”

their minds. “‘Design For Life’ came together so quickly and seemed so complete that it gave us that impetus to carry on in the blind hope that maybe it would be a call to arms to Richey,” he admits. “Even if he just said, ‘Great, I like what you’re doing but it’s not for me.’ That went on for many years, until only recently, I think” Released 14 months after Edwards’ disappearance, the single was a critical and commercial juggernaut, selling more than 200,000 copies and dominating the airwaves during a long, hot Britpop summer. Not bad for a song with a title inspired by Joy Division and which starts with the words “Libraries gave us power”. As Moore says of the musical landscape at the time: “There was a resurgence of working-class culture and reflecting about circumstance and where you came from, whether that was through Oasis and Manchester and Blur and London. We were like Wales’ representative.” The album Everything Must Go went on to yield three more top ten singles and would itself go triple platinum in the UK, selling more than two million worldwide. “For once, we could just fall into the fantasy of just being a successful band where things were going right,” says Wire of the time. “To have a record where every week something good happened... it’s the one time that I can honestly say it was really enjoyable being in a band.” Not that the success wasn’t tinged with regret. “Those still moments [post-gig] when you get back to your room, have a shower and 66 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016

off the top spot. It was, alas, replaced by Britney Spears. That first month of 2000 may have been the last time the Manic Street Preachers had a No1 song, but since then they’ve released a total of 12 albums, including Send Away The Tigers, with their anthemic duet with The Cardigans’ Nina Persson, “Your Love Alone Is Not Enough”; Journal For Plague Lovers, with all lyrics by Edwards and a Jenny Saville cover banned by supermarkets; and Futurology and Rewind The Film, which were, impressively, released within six months of one other. As the world has long since come to expect from the Manics, they’ve been far from quiet away from the studio. Not that Fidel Castro would concur. Controversially – and, regrettably, according to Wire, in terms of cost and future immigration problems from America to Eastern Europe (especially when The Rolling Stones have inexplicably laid claim to the same breakthrough this year) – the band played Havana’s Karl Marx Theatre arena in 2001, the first Western act to play there for 20 years. Meeting Cuba’s Communist leader backstage, the Manic Street Preachers apologised in advance if the show was going to be too loud for him. “Will it be louder than war?” was the gently withering retort that was later used, in tribute, as their live DVD title. The Manics also look comfortable with their place as an arena – and, on occasion, stadium

Found that soul (from left): Britpop’s Welsh representatives Wire, Bradfield and Moore, 2000

MORE FROM GQ

For these related stories, visit GQ.co.uk/magazine

A Certain Bromance (Dorian Lynskey, April 2016) Noel Gallagher Talks Drugs, Liam And Telling Adele To F*** Of (Jonathan Heaf, March 2016) The Story Of The First Sex Pistols Gig (Paul Gorman, November 2015)

Photograph Neil Cooper/Camera Press

‘We always had that love of high and low art. There’s no diference for us’


OVERFINCH.COM

THE ULTIMATE EXPRESSION OF THE RANGE ROVER ICON


HUGO RIFKIND

This month:

Do you find her attractive? It may seem like a good idea, but full disclosure leaves Hugo Rifkind flirting with disaster

Illustration Ryan McAmis

S  

he says, “So did you fancy her, then?” He says nothing. He just stares at her, frozen. This silence could go on forever, he thinks. We might never speak again. We’ll just stay here, until we starve to death, and one day the police will kick down the door and find our desiccated corpses positioned exactly as they are now, her with one hand on her hip and me with my mouth open. Like in Pompeii. He should say something, he thinks. He definitely should do that pretty soon. “No” is an option, but that would also be an indication that he knows who she is talking about and has given her some private thought. And that’s where the danger lies. Once, he could have said “maybe” or even “yes”. Somehow, back then, it was flattering to tell your other half you fancied other people. He remembers being with her in a club, just after they met, pointing out to each other the people they liked the most. For him, it had been a girl in a bikini top and leather trousers. Hers was some skinny geek. Like him. By now he’s becoming genuinely afraid she might just give up on him, and wander off. “Who?” he manages. “That woman from last night,” she says. “At the party. Obviously.” He says, “Which one?” She says, “Seriously?” And he says, mad with panic now, “But there were two.” It’s her turn to just stare at him.

“The one with the breasts?” he hears himself say. “Or the one with the arse?” “Amazing,” she says. He closes his eyes. Then he says that this is totally unfair because she pointed both of them out to him. “Like you hadn’t already noticed,” she says. Anyway, she says, why does it matter which one? Why would he even ask? He’d only ask if he’d fancied one of them. That’s just logical. But she meant the one with the breasts. “Right,” he says, in actual, honest relief. “Fine. No.” Then she says what about the other one? And he says he genuinely doesn’t

Wandering eyes: Do not be lured into a frank admission of who you find easy on the eye

‘I didn’t want a fight,’ she says. ‘I’m just interested in your type’

know, because he didn’t see her face. And, although he’s said this without planning it, because he still feels like he’s falling, he immediately thinks it was a bloody clever answer. She says, “I didn’t want a fight. I’m just interested in your type.” He says, “But you’re my type.” She sighs and says yes, obviously, but apart from her. Who else? And he says, “People we know?” And she says, firmly, “No.” “Right,” he says. “Well, if you’re sure you want to know. The obvious, I suppose. That one out of the ‘Blurred Lines’ video. Jennifer Lawrence. Charlize Theron, only with hair. Or maybe without hair? Yeah, fine, both. Rihanna. That one in Girls who everyone hates. Most of The Corrs. But not Angelina Jolie. Not any more. Not now she looks like a vase.” She says, laughing, “Come on! You’d dump me for her in a heartbeat.” “No,” he says. “I’m not sure I would. I mean, it would be a nightmare, wouldn’t it? Everywhere we went, people would be staring. And I’d end up wanting to fight them all. Like that guy the other night. The one who was with the girl with the breasts.” She says, “I thought she was actually quite pretty.” He says, “Oh, ah.” She says, “Although I’m surprised you noticed her face.” He says, “Mwuhuhuh!” Then he thinks shit, I hope that came out right. Like, amused. Conspiratorial. Not dirty. Did it sound dirty? Then he thinks for God’s sake, we’ve been together over a decade. How do these conversations even happen? OHugo Rifkind is a writer for the Times. JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 69


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1 3 2

2

E D I T E D BY

Populate your bookmarks bar with these web-based boutiques and make your indoors the envy of Instagram

6

4 5

PHOTOGRAPH BY

Mitch Payne

1

AARON CALLOW

Shelf, £149. At Made. made.com

2 Vase by Normann Copenhagen, £22.50. At Houseology. houseology.com 3 Lamp by Muuto, £149. At Future And Found. futureandfound.com 4 Vase by Tom Dixon, £90. At Houseology. houseology.com 5 Vase by LSA, £14.50. At Houseology. houseology.com

10

6 Vase, £8. At Loop The Loop. looptheloop.co.uk

8

7

9

7 Cactus vase by Verreum, £184. At Matter Of Stuff. matterofstuf.com

3

8 Radio by Ruark, £200. At Amara. amara.com 9 Cushion by Giannina Capitani, £79. At Future And Found. futureandfound.com

11 4

10 Chair by Hay, £879. At Future And Found. futureandfound.com

12

16 5 14 13

15 11 Lamp by Fatboy, £90. At Amara. amara.com 12 Blanket by Darkroom, £145. At Trouva. trouva.com 13 Side table by Hay, £119. At Amara. amara.com 14 Cofee table by Fjorde & Co, £210. At Wayfair. wayfair.co.uk 17

15 Tray, £79. Vase, £14. Both by H Skjalm P. At Trouva. trouva.com 16 Bowl by Kartell, £61. At Amara. amara.com 17 Reindeer hide, £115. At Loop The Loop. looptheloop.co.uk JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 73


WHAT I WEAR Actor and model Timothy Renouf throws a light on the method behind his sartorial showstoppers

WISH LIST

Bag “I do a lot of travelling as I’m often going off to auditions. This is a woman’s bag, but I prefer it because it’s big.” By Mulberry, £595. mulberry.com

WISH LIST

Shoes “I think the marbled effect of these shoes gives them an edge. I love twists on classic designs.” By Converse, £70. At The Goodhood Store. goodhoodstore.com

Watch “I love that Larsson & Jennings is a young, homegrown brand. My other watch is my grandfather’s Raymond Weil – he was a great style icon for me.” £225. larssonandjennings.com

WISH LIST

WISH LIST

Pocket Square

Cologne

Story Eleanor Halls Photographs Nicholas Kay; Simon Webb Grooming Brady Lea at Stella Creative Artists

Jumper “Rollnecks are a staple of my wardrobe. They suit both formal and informal occasions, and are a flattering look.” By Lacoste, £39. lacoste.com

“This adds a splash of colour to a dark suit, turning a classic look into a statement.” By Lisa King, £175. lisakinglondon.com

“This woody, earthy smell is great. I wear it every day along with some Jo Malone body oil my girlfriend gave me.” By Neville, £50. neville.co.uk

Jacket “Burberry is one of my favourite brands, as I’m all for British heritage. This classic piece strikes a great contrast with the punkish trousers.” £495. burberry.com

Trousers “These are from an east London boutique that I stumbled upon after an audition. The fit is high-waisted with a cropped leg.” By Sparks, £45. sparkslondon.com WISH LIST

Jacket “I really liked the way Serge Gainsbourg wore a leather jacket. This one is light and not too tight, like his.” By All Saints, £328. allsaints.com WISH LIST

Watch “I like the contrast of the big black hands on the white dial. Mondaine is also one of the most reliable watchmakers.” £185. mondaine.com

Shoes “The great thing about these boots is that they’re sturdy and I can wear them out dancing. They also look really good with a smart, tailored look.” By Dr Martens, £110. drmartens.com JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 75


FROM CANVAS, A WHITE LABEL. INTRODUCING THE DESIGNER COLLECTION. AVAILABLE AT LANDSEND.CO.UK


The special one The Jaguar F-Pace is a true crossover champion. Jason Barlow joins another ice-cold icon – José Mourinho – in Sweden to talk torque, power sliding and keeping control in testing conditions PHOTOGRAPHS BY

Alex Howe

Hold fast: The F-Pace’s Adaptive Surface Response system delivers more grip in slippery conditions 80 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016


CARS

E D I T E D BY

PAUL HENDERSON

I

The F-Pace delivers the sort of sports car handling that most SUVs could only fantasise about

remember playing a match in Russia,” José Mourinho says. “It must have been -10C, so cold that some of the players were crying. We thought that one of the linesmen had died...” GQ is in Arjeplog, a one-horse town in the far north of Sweden whose horses swell in number every winter when the car industry decamps to inflict a brutal cold-weather testing regimen on still-secret new models. The last time we were here, the temperature plunged to a bracing -27C; today it’s a positively balmy -4C. Jaguar is signing off its new “crossover”, the F-Pace, and José is here to try it. If he’s trying to escape the intense scrutiny that attends his every utterance, the edge of the Arctic Circle is a good place to do it. At the time of writing, speculation is reaching maximum velocity about a move to Manchester United, and with Pep Guardiola confirmed as Manuel Pellegrini’s successor at Manchester City, it sets up a monumental battle between two old foes. I ask if he’ll be staying in the UK. “At this moment I don’t have a job, and I don’t know where football will take me, because in football you never know. But for sure, as a family, our home will still be England; our home will be in London. As a professional, I am ready to move, especially because football in London for me, in terms of clubs... well, I think it is clear that I have to move.” We’ll see. Today, he’s just part of the team, and a Finnish ex-rally driver called Tommi is the coach that really matters. Jaguar’s frozen test process doesn’t begin until the ice is 50cm thick, and most of the work is gruellingly repetitive and necessarily empirical. But it’s also fun: there’s a lake nearby that’s roughly the size of the area bound by the M25, and a chunk of it has been sequestered for test duty. GQ immediately finds itself power-sliding the F-Pace at wild angles and serious speeds, wondering how the hell a vehicle with a higherthan-usual centre of gravity can feel so alert. There are various reasons for this. Firstly, although Jaguar needs to enter this territory to meet its ambitious profit targets, no one wants a lumbering, dead-eyed behemoth. So the F-Pace is blessed with the same aluminium chassis as the XE and XF saloons, making it the only crossover so equipped (although its front suspension turrets have been reworked for JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 81


CARS extra ground clearance and the front cross-members have been enlarged). Strong as it is light, it delivers the sort of sports car handling most SUVs could only fantasise about. Its all-wheel drive uses a control system called Intelligent Driveline Dynamics, which ensures rear-drive poise unless the conditions demand extra grip, at which point 50 per cent of the torque is sent through the front wheels. There’s also an electronic chassis system, Adaptive Surface Response, that accurately meters out grip even when it’s slippery. The F-Pace groans with so much engineering detail that it’s impossible to list it all, but if you want geeky, how about bonded bushes on the tubular anti-roll bar? This technique reduces noise, but also makes it difficult for dirt to work its way in. This stuff matters on a 4x4. Not that anyone is ever seriously going to scale an Alp in an F-Pace, but you can order it on huge 22in alloys. The version we’re driving features the same 3.0litre, 380bhp supercharged V6 as the F-Type roadster and coupé. Jaguar’s design team has sweated the details so intensely that it really does look like a jacked-up F-Type – the body sides are formed from a single piece of aluminium – and it has a similar dynamism. Inside, it has Jaguar’s latest touchscreen infotainment system, and there’s emphasis on connectivity. Not all of it works perfectly, though, and as with the saloons, there’s a sense that most of the budget went on the shiny hard bits underneath. Watching Mourinho on the ice, it’s fair to say that this is a man unprepared to relinquish control. For the uninitiated, getting a car sideways is a leap of faith. “It responds very well to

every situation. Great responses, very stable, great fun,” he says succinctly afterwards. “I once hit a patch of ice in Milan, and didn’t like the experience. I think I would deal with it better now.” How does he cope with the pressure? “Football is not pressure for me – it is a privilege. I cope because it’s easy to cope with something you like very, very much. That is why I don’t understand

Winning mentality (below): Jaguar fan José Mourinho; the F-Pace shares an aluminium chassis with the XE and XF; the touchscreen interior system

when players don’t enjoy their professional life. This is the kind of job where you are very well paid, but, at the same time, you live the dreams you had as a kid. It’s why I sometimes have conflicts with people who don’t share the same philosophy. You are in a sport to compete, you want to win, you hate to lose, you win once, so you want to win twice... When you are tired you can go home and give up your place to someone else.” Has he learnt everything there is to learn in football? “No! I always have to learn. Even in football, which is an area in which I feel I am an expert, I am never perfect and I will always learn. Sometimes in my work, and also in my private life, maybe people think I am not humble. But I am so humble and I am always ready to learn from people who know more than me.” Indeed. And Tommi is waiting.

Jaguar engineers point out that almost 90 per cent of the F-Pace’s  components are brand new. ENGINE 2,995cc supercharged V6 PERFORMANCE 0-62mph in 5.5 seconds; top speed, 155mph PRICE From £34,170 CONTACT jaguar.co.uk

Photograph Rex

CITROËN’S FAMILY VALUES It’s difficult to pin down exactly what the Citroën C4 Cactus is. It’s the same size as a hatchback, has the ride height of an SUV, looks like a Transformer’s foot, but is wilfully low-tech inside. But when you use it, it starts to make sense. Because the gadgets have been torn out, there are virtually no buttons (what little that’s there is controlled by a 7in touchscreen). Everything else has been given over to clever storage cubbies and space. What it lacks in tech it makes up for in innovation. The rubber blisters on the side are filled with air and prevent those little dings that annoy beyond measure. Also, so much weight’s been stripped out (some models are under a tonne), it can borrow engines from the smaller three-cylinder Citroën C3/Peugeot 208 range but still hand back 60mpg. It is, however, a bit watery and vague to drive. But through the pitches and wallows it always lets you know what’s going on. And while the pick-of-the-range 1.2-litre 110bhp engine won’t tighten Jeremy Clarkson’s jeans, it’s surprisingly adequate. But ten-tenths driving isn’t what the Cactus is about. As its designer told us, it was “born out of an analysis of use in the segment”, and the result is a neat solution for cheap, family-focused transport that gives you what you need in an interesting, occasionally odd and quintessentially French way. Whatever it is, it’s good. Matt Jones From £12,990. citroen.co.uk JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 83


D E L I V E R I N G S A R T O R I A L E XC E L L E N C E clementsandchurch.co.uk


E D I T E D BY

BILL PRINCE

Live in the lap of the gods at Greece’s new super-villa; plus, routes opening (or re-opening) to Lima, San Jose and Tehran

Modern Greek (above): Sculpture such as Diapason by Silvio Santini (2015) enriches the four-acre grounds of Villa 20

AMAN was the first luxury resort to part-finance its far-flung developments through the sale of private residences on its properties – but even its founder, Adrian Zecha, might have drawn breath at the plans for the super-villa commissioned by a Swiss-based couple at its first outpost in Greece, Amanzoe. Infinity and beyond: Amanzoe’s Designed by Aman’s long-term Villa 20 boasts nine bedrooms, collaborating architect, Ed Tuttle, the seven pools and a private spa nine-bedroom Villa 20 is spread over six levels and four acres of land and features no fewer than seven pools as well as its own dedicated wellness facility, including two treatment rooms, a yoga studio and fully equipped Technogym. As well as the privately commissioned sculptures and art, Villa 20 boasts its own cabana at Amanzoe’s private beach club, a ten minute drive through the splendour of the Peloponnese. However, tearing yourself from the myriad opportunities to swim, relax, dine and digitally detox might be beyond all but the most frequent of visitors to this one-of-a-kind rental. Prices from £885 a night. Agios Panteleimonas, Kranidi, Argolida 213 00, Greece. 0030 275 4772 888. aman.com

Photographs Alamy

Capital gains: British Airways connects London to Lima, Peru, and San Jose’s Silicon Valley (inset)

In airline news... British Airways continues to extend its network. From this month, the carrier will be serving the food capital of South America, Lima, three times a week, as well as a daily service to a new gateway to Silicon Valley, San Jose. And having suspended all flights in October 2012, BA resumes service to Tehran from July, offering six flights a week from Heathrow... Meanwhile, Emirates is challenging for the longest scheduled flight possible with its new Dubai-Auckland leg, clocking up 16 hours outbound and a truly movie-munching 17-and-a-half hours return. BP

Landmark journey (above): Services to Tehran, Iran, resume from Heathrow

YOUR PERSONAL SECURITY SERVICE If you haven’t done so already, secure your desirables with Tile, a crowd-sourced, Bluetooth-enabled security device that allows you to track your belongings or tap into Tile’s four-and-a-half-million users to help geo-locate missing items. Small enough to attach to your key ring, savvy travellers stow them in their checked luggage ready for the next time an airline decides to take it for a fly-about. £19.99. thetileapp.com JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 87


TRAVEL Secret garden (clockwise from top): The patio at the Hotel Bel-Air; its deal-breaking bar; Wolfgang Puck’s restaurant; and the Grace Kelly suite living room

Spanish and British with a sprinkle of Hollywood: the hidden charms of Hotel Bel-Air remain as alluring as ever

88 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016

WHENEVER you hear that one of your favourite business hotels is being given an update, it is perfectly reasonable for you to worry. After all, wasn’t the reason you started going there in the first place because you liked it the way it was? So when GQ heard that the Hotel Bel-Air was being given a face-lift a few years ago, we were a little concerned. Would our favoured Spanish-mission-style secluded wonderland be turned into an unnecessary modernist nightmare, complete with a confusing digital light system and an overwrought design? Well, it seems that every hotel these days has an unnecessarily confusing digital light system (we are never able to successfully turn off the lights in any room in Shanghai, for instance), yet the Bel-Air has been ever-so-carefully updated, and it remains the beautiful oasis it’s always been. And while we resolutely refuse to get excited about bumping into genuine A-listers as we wander around the gardens, arguing with agents and publicists on our cell phones, this is still one of those places where Hollywood meets itself for coffee, tea and cocktails: deals are done here, real deals, the kind you read about in the Hollywood Reporter. Also, no matter what they do to the hotel – and in almost all ways it’s been improved – it’s impossible to change the weather, which drops considerably as soon as you drive through the gates: this is one of those parts of Los Angeles that will forever remain British. From £405 a night. Hotel Bel-Air, BA flies to 701 Stone Canyon Road, California Los Angeles 90077. 001 310 472 1211. from £767 return. dorchestercollection.com britishairways.com


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BILL PRINCE & PAUL HENDERSON

E D I T E D BY

50% of the

world’s raw food supply is wasted on the path from farm to fork.

Other 18%

Drink 17%

Meat and fish 7%

Vegetables and salad 19% Fruit 8%

Dairy and eggs

10% Bakery 11%

The amount of tomato ketchup and other condiments wasted each year in the UK, worth an estimated £650 million.

DIVIDE AND SQUANDER Breakdown of annual avoidable food waste. The average UK home throws away food worth £470 a year.

Cooked meals

10%

One fifth

THE FACTS

Have you got too much on your plate?

Proportion of global meat production that is never eaten, equivalent to approximately 63 million tonnes.

Like the rest of the western world, Britons are responsible for an unpalatable amount of uneaten food every year. Campaigner Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall is once again weighing up the nation’s waste and taking on a global scandal

Up to 40%

Photographs Matthew Beedle

Amount of fruit and vegetables rejected before it reaches UK shops due to failing to meet strict cosmetic standards.

For more information and to find out how you can reduce food waste, visit feedbackglobal.org

40-60% of fish caught in Europe are discarded Either because they are the wrong size or species, or because of the ill-governed European quota system. Each year, 2.3 million tonnes of fish are discarded in the North Atlantic and North Sea.

The number of slices of bread thrown away each day in Britain. JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 91


THE CAMPAIGN

The war on waste: Hugh needs you! Fresh from his battle with profligate supermarkets, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall is back to target new environmental outrages, from unrecyclable coffee cups to mad mail-order packaging starting with the TV cook’s dislike of disposable IN his hugely popular 2015 series Hugh’s War On coffee cups. Waste, the inhabitant of River Cottage highlighted, “One of the biggest surprises that I’ve come across among other things, the insane cosmetic standards is that I, like many, assumed most of the squillions expected by supermarkets and what we, as of paper cups we get our takeaway coffees in are individuals, are doing wrong. Twitter blew up, with recyclable, because they’re made of card. But they hundreds threatening to pelt their local superstore are almost all completely unrecyclable. with parsnips and over 300,000 people signing “I would have put a takeaway Fearnley-Whittingstall’s pledge to cup in the mixed recycling until personally reduce waste. recently. Wrong. They are general Now he’s back waging war on waste because of the plastic lining. waste. “A follow-up series was WHAT TO That applies to almost every single planned from the beginning,” he DO NOW? company that is using them and, yet, says. “Because the value of any O“Don’t treat use-bywe know that the technology [to of these investigative, stunt-driven, dates as if the wording create recyclable cups] does exist.” let’s-embarrass-the-bad-guy type was ‘throw by’,” says Shouldn’t these companies be of shows is to be able to say, ‘I’ll Fearnley-Whittingstall. “Why would you stop embarrassed, I ask? “They should be back. I’m coming back to check trusting your senses? be,” he tells me, clearly very cross. on you.’” You’ve got your “And by the end of this they will be, And check he does, because all fingertips, nose, eyes, because this is what we do.” Also on that food wasted by supermarkets mouth and ears.” his hit list? The “crazy mail-order could easily be reallocated to local O“Shop more carefully. packaging” that arrives when we charities. “I get that supermarkets Bags of salad and grapes are the real demons that order goods online. are big, unwieldy beasts but, instead are thrown away.” Whatever Fearnley-Whittingstall of people going round the back and O“I ask people to take a is taking on, his passion for skip diving, why not let them walk pledge: ‘I will try and be reducing waste and encouraging in the front door and collect it with a smarter shopper, I will changes to social policy that would a smile rather than middle-of-thebe better at using up my benefit both people and planet, is night skulduggery?” leftovers, and I will do my recycling.’” unwavering. He is charming, funny Fearnley-Whittingstall is also O“I ask you, the and focused on what he is doing. following up on the ridiculous supermarket, to step up “I understand that it takes time to cosmetic standards for food that and do your bit. I think get things changed, but it doesn’t he highlighted in the first series, that’s a totally fair take long to admit that things need though it seems growers are now transaction. (This refers changing and to get the wheels being asked for three-legged carrots to their ridiculous rejection of ‘imperfect’ in motion.” To find how you can get as a result of the uproar. It’s the fresh produce and also aboard the change-wagon, be sure nearly perfect produce that is still throwing away good to watch. Cass Farrar going to waste, he says. Viewers food once the sell by can also expect a wealth of fresh date is past).” OHugh’s War On Waste is on controversy from the new show, BBC One this month.

THE BOTTLE

Toast Pale Ale Bread is the most discarded food in the UK so food waste campaigner Tristram Stuart used his loaf and came up with the perfect solution: make it into beer. Using the fresh surplus bread donated from local bakeries to replace 30 per cent of the malt barley that would normally go into the mash, the result is Toast: a craft ale that has a rich caramel flavour and a hint of salt. Each bottle contains the equivalent of one slice of bread and all proceeds go to food waste charity Feedback, helping put a stop to global food waste. John Hitchcox £3. toastale.com 92 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016

The water’s edge: Goan black bream curry; (inset) the interior of Ondine; (below) roasted lemon sole with chorizo, cockles and clams


TASTE small bites

Where

has been eating this month...

HONEY & CO The craze for Levant cuisine reaches Fitzrovia in this diner heavy on home-cooked fare. standout dish Roasted aubergine baked in a barbecue tahini crust, with a rice salad (£14.50)

25a Warren Street, London W1. 020 7388 6175. honeyandco.co.uk

CAFÉ FLEUR

THE RESTAURANT

Ondine Head to the heart of Edinburgh for some serious Scottish seafood YOU have your pick of views from your seat at Ondine. Look outwards to the winding Craigleith sandstone of Edinburgh’s city centre; inwards to the glossy oyster bar, revamped last year; and downwards, if you follow GQ’s instructions, to a spectacular shellfish platter bigger than Captain Birdseye’s beard. Start with squid tempura (featherlight, with Vietnamese dipping sauce and crispy chilli splinters) and peat-smoked salmon perched on tiny crumpets – the perfect British answer to blinis. Then look out for three special silver implements built to crack, gouge and spear. This is serious seafood, after all, served roasted and to share: lobster, oysters, crab, scallops, mussels and more. It’s all sustainably sourced and mainly Scottish, too, from Dunbar, Mull, Tarbet and Loch Fyne – the perfect showcase for chef patron Roy Brett’s Le Caprice-honed talents. Jennifer Bradly O2 George IV Bridge, Edinburgh EH1 1AD. 0131 226 1888. ondinerestaurant.co.uk

A perfect neighbourhood joint ofering some of the best brunches in London. standout dish Avocado, chili and whipped feta on toast with poached eggs (£8.95)

198 St Ann’s Hill, London SW18. 020 8874 1930. cafefleurwandsworth.com

THE BAR

Behind This Wall TEPID, sickly sweet, the fizz falling flat, an onslaught of clashing flavours: there’s nothing worse than a bad cocktail and we’ve all had our fair share. Alex Harris, history-teacherturned-label-manager-turned-mixologist, was so tired of disappointing drinks and extortionate prices he decided to open his own bar: Behind This Wall. Finally, a bar which sells itself as an alcoholic oasis that will minimise your hangover, swapping syrups and mixers for seasonal botanical or herbaceous enhancements – explaining the bar’s tagline of “medicinal mixology”. “Half the sugar, half the hangover,” says Harris, who believes bars should be affordable, untheatrical and should serve proper drinks that keep your buzz going all evening. With highballs at £6 (Bloody Maria), cocktails at £8 (Corpse Reviver) and an oyster happy hour (6-7pm) where oysters sell for £1, the new East London haunt certainly doesn’t empty pockets. “The salt from the oysters helps rebalance the alcohol’s effects,” explains Harris, who also serves the salty Hawaiian dish Poke (below): raw tuna steak or beets on a bed of rice (£6). Those are the only two food options complementing the short and snappy cocktail menu, and the stripped-down nature of the décor (a couple of tables and benches, a tiny bar and some decks) was inspired by Japanese minimalism. Behind This Wall, whose name is stolen from a piece of graffiti, opts for straight up functional – the seats are hard, the walls are bare and the space is small. Yet this little basement bar, which grew from a humble pop-up on Broadway Market, must be one of the friendliest bars in Hackney – they even let you bring your own records and have your turn on the decks. Eleanor Halls O411 Mare Street, London E8. 020 3602 7869. behindthiswall.com

THE SOCIETY CLUB London’s coolest literary watering hole opens its second outpost just of Brick Lane. standout dish Sexing The Cherry with Bourbon, champagne and Heering (£12)

3 Cheshire Street, London E2. 020 7739 5631. thesocietyclub.com

JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 93


THE MEAL

The Shack at Cloudy Bay The New Zealand winery and award-winning Kiwi chef Ben Shewry go way beyond farm-to-table to create a truly adventurous approach to cuisine, writes Bill Prince THE winning propensity of Kiwis to understate everything finds its apotheosis in The Shack, an award-winning structure that sits at the heart of the South Island’s Cloudy Bay winery. Built as a replacement to a down-at-heel dwelling that once served as a home away from home for the estate’s co-founder, Cape Mentelle winemaker David Hohnen, it was destroyed by a fire in 2009. Today, the new Shack is the venue for both VIP wine-tastings and the occasional “destination banquet” – although, by the terms of their national tic, Kiwis would never give it that particular banner. Tonight’s shindig, then, is an eight-course dinner celebrating the bounty of the surrounding Marlborough region, the varied ingredients for which have been largely collected by the assembled diners. Given that most of the things growing or grazing in this part of the world arrived after Captain Cook first dropped anchor in nearby Marlborough Sounds, it’s safe to say no one is likely to be poisoned; still, the challenge for the estate’s invited foragers is to find sufficient produce to feed a table of around 20, and, more importantly, impress our chef: the award-winning owner of Melbourne’s Attica restaurant (rated 32nd in the world), 39-year-old New Zealand native Ben Shewry. You may be aware of Shewry already, thanks to the tangibly tasty televisual feast that is Netflix’s Chef’s Table series, in which Shewry’s success in turning a failing neighbourhood restaurant into a small (57 covers) beacon of 94 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016

internationally acclaimed, homegrown cuisine is overwritten by the soulful chef’s own account of embracing the kind of ingredients that are simply not available to most other kitchens, even those at the epicentre of foodie fashion. As he told our table, “I’ve cooked all over the world; I’ve cooked in cities and I’ve cooked in the countryside – and if you ever go to cook in New York you are always scratching to find stuff. It’s not that they don’t have good stuff, but it’s not visible and it’s difficult to find things that are really fresh.” Today, Shewry works in that naturalistic neck of the culinary woods where his 200-plus suppliers are hailed as the true heroes of the dinner-hour: named on menus, and crucial to the success of such hyper-local dishes as Lance Wiffin’s Mussels and tonight’s first taste of the previous day’s foraging, A 20m Walk At Uncle Joes – served with a welcome glass of Cloudy Bay’s Sauvignon Blanc 2003. Uncle Joe is Shewry’s nut supplier: “And like a lot of producers, they don’t understand how high a level they are creating to. Everything in the dish is within 20 minutes’ walk of Uncle Joe’s – apart from the salt.” Shewry’s menu continued in a similar theme, albeit substituting ingredients hewn from the nearby soil or hauled from the Wairarapa River by our merry band of international foragers (read: lucky food and drink specialists from around the world) –

Photographs Keiran Scott/Cloudy Bay; Jim Tannock

The wild side (from top): Chef Ben Shewry; A Song In The Wind dessert; the Marlborough region; estate director Ian Morden; freshwater crayfish


TASTE Bloody Venison ingeniously substituting plums and beetroot for the slain beast’s life-oil, served with a “smokingly good” (Tim Heath, the estate’s winemaker) Pinot Noir 2014. GQ’s own contribution materialises as Crayfish & Ulva Lactuca (sea lettuce), served alongside Cloudy Bay’s Te Koko Sauvignon Blanc 2014. And Shewry dug deep – quite literally – for his pièce de résistance, the meal climaxing with a surprise serving of one of Attica’s signature dishes, Freshly Dug Spuds (surprising as the huge pot in which the one-of-a-kind tubers had been cooked was removed from an artfully disguised pit dug in the middle of The Shack’s lawn). Known in traditional Kiwi culture as a hangi, locavore pit-cooking at this level was never going to disappoint, but the effect rendered Shewry’s potatoes well worth travelling more than 10,000 miles to taste. But as he explained, his mission is a disarmingly simple one: don’t make it worse. “It means I have an intimate relationship [with my suppliers],” said Shewry. “Everybody knows I serve Lance’s mussels, so if I serve them in a way that is worse than what he gave to me, a lot of people are going to think it’s the product’s fault rather than mine. So it’s not just my reputation, it’s their blood sweat and tears too. It goes beyond the transaction of money; it goes to the heart of human interaction.” It’s true to say the bounty in these parts is exceptional: a reason estate

HOW FAR DO YOU GO? Foraging on the South Island turns up a superior crop

1 MUSSELS The ultimate eco-superfood – low in fat and high in iron, protein and omega-3s.

2 C R AY F I S H Known as koura in these parts, this was raised on an organic farm in the Wairau Valley.

3 P OTATO E S The centrepiece of Ben Shrewy’s foraged menu – slow-roasted in a freshly dug pit.

director Ian Morden instigated the multinational Forage in 2013. “We believe that to understand our wine, you need to understand our place,” he says. To do that, guests were divided into four teams and directed north, south, east and west to collect the fruits of the area. On the day, this included venison from Glazebrook Station high up in the rugged hills overlooking the Waihopai River Valley, brown trout artfully plucked from the swift-running waters of the Wairau Valley, as well as mussels, clams and päua (abalone) collected along the crenelated coastline of Marlborough Sounds. This was complemented by the best of the region’s grown produce, from succulent pears cultivated in an orchard to organically farmed koura (crayfish) and hand-pressed local olive oils. All of this was presented to Shewry and his team to design a degustation menu reflecting the spoils of each team’s endeavours. “For me it’s an opportunity to take the shackles off a little bit,” Shewry explained. “At Attica we serve 57 people every night, and you can change a little bit but you can’t change a lot. Plus, you can’t just do all brand new dishes at once because they take time to refine. And this is one of the very best places I’ve found ingredients in my whole life. Everything here is very close contact, it’s very close to this amazing environment.” An environment at the heart of Cloudy Bay’s worldwide reputation as

‘This is one of the very best places I’ve found ingredients in my whole life’

well: Marlborough’s “dirt” – Cloudy Bay viticulturist Jim White’s term for the more oft-heard but very un-Kiwi “terroir” – may well harbour all the nutrients required for producing bounteous quantities of sauvignon, aided and abetted by the cool maritime climate, but its wines’ global reputations are based on meticulous husbandry, most of it hand work, which eschews quantity for quality. And yet the estate is not beyond a bit of foraging itself – as White explained when we toured its stony uplands now planted with pinot noir (and for which a new vineyard has just been unveiled in the Otago region). Following a phylloxera outbreak in the lateEighties, new root stocks were planted, one of which – a Burgundian pinot noir – had found its way into the country secreted in a wine-loving rugby player’s boot, the would-be vintner having picked it up on a trip to the Romanée-Conti appellation. The authorities’ forensic attentions defeated the player’s attempt to cultivate his own corner of Burgundy Grand Cru in New Zealand, but the cutting survived, covertly propagated by a similarly obsessed customs official. Given this piece of oenological contraband eventually found its way into Cloudy Bay’s pinot noir, it’s no wonder the wine is fast becoming a rival to the Burgundians’ crown. GQ travelled to Blenheim with Air New Zealand. airnewzealand.co.uk O230 Jacksons Road, Blenheim 7240, New Zealand. 064 3-520 9140. cloudybay.co.nz

PICK OF THE CROP Search party: Ben Shewry; (right) Nashi pear juice and green hazelnuts, the opening course at the Forage Degustation Dinner; (above) the exterior of The Shack

Cloudy Bay showcases the work of garden designer Sam Ovens at this year’s Chelsea Flower Show (24-18 May, rhs.org.uk/chelsea) where the young Cornishman will reflect the relationship between nature and winemaking.

JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 95


THE PUB

The Porch House Enjoy the ancient and modern charm of Britain’s oldest pub (yes, another one) in Stow-On-The-Wold and the stunning ales of its sister venue

THE HOTEL

Cary Arms GQ Taste has written about the delightful Cary Arms, nestled away in Devon’s answer to Big Sur, in the past – but news reaches us that the perfectly formed Sir Peter de Savary owned hideaway has grown of late, adding six 21st-century-styled beach huts and a further two beach suites to its arsenal of attractive accommodations (there’s also four cottages, sleeping up to six adults and two children). In foam-flecked proximity to the water’s edge, each beach hut comprises a sitting room, wet bar, log-burning stove, a raised bedroom area and a stylish bathroom, as well as enticing views across Babbacombe Bay. As well as being larger, the two beach suites ofer exhilarating sea views as well as the chance to sit out on one’s own sun deck. Completing the wholesale expansion of the former coastal inn is a glass-fronted spa, replete with mood lighting and an experience shower. Veterans of this part of the world may recognise the need to turn every shower into an experience, but newbies to the area will savour the opportunity to hole up awhile in one of the West Country’s leading hostelries. BP OBeach huts start from £375 a night including breakfast. Stay in the Cary Arms from £195 a night. Babbacombe Beach, South Devon TQ1 3LX. 01803 327110. caryarms.co.uk 96 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016

IF you were served a pint by every pub that claims to be the oldest in England, well... you wouldn’t remember your own name, let alone those of all ye olde ancient inns claiming the title. The Porch House in Stow-On-The-Wold, Gloucestershire, however, makes a pretty good case. Housed in a Grade II listed building (parts of which date back to 947AD), it features wonky stone flag floors, sloping skullcracking lintels and even the ghost of a 15-year-old boy who has been floating around since 1630. The spectral teenager would, however, hardly recognise the place since he mysteriously shuffled off this mortal coil. Following a £1 million refurbishment in 2013, all 13 guest rooms have been given a rustic, romantic design makeover, and the addition of a large rear conservatory is the perfect spot for a lazy breakfast or lunch. The original dining room – with its antique furniture, old-fashioned portraits and inglenook fireplace – would be far more familiar. As would the menu, to anyone who has ever set foot in a gastropub in the last 20 years. A greatest hits collection including ham hock terrine, cheddar soufflé, roast Barbary duck breast, old spot pork chop and sticky-toffee pudding will spring no

Country life (from top): Roasted guinea fowl; the interior of The Porch House; the exterior seating area

surprise, and it is all done well if unremarkably. Far more commendable are the four Brakspear cask ales brewed at the Porch House’s sister pub, the Bull On Bell Street in Henley-On-Thames. All of which helped the oldest inn in England to win the 2015 AA Pub Of The Year and The Good Pub Guide’s “New Pub Of The Year 2016”. So, in summary, the Porch House stands out as the best, oldest, new pub in the country. PH ODigbeth Street, Stow-On-The-Wold, Cheltenham GL54 1BN. 01451 870048. porch-house.co.uk

THE ROUNDUP

Buon appetito: Three brilliantly affordable Italians

L’Anima Café (and Deli)

Padella

Santa Maria (Chelsea)

10 Appold Street, London EC2 lanimacafe.co.uk

6 Southwark Street, London SE1 padella.co

92-94 Waterford Road, London SW6 santamariapizzeria.com

The setup: L’Anima’s long-awaited, more pocket-pleasing little brother ofers simple southern Italian cooking in the café or ready-to-go meals from the deli next door. Eat this: Start with the parmigiana di melanzane (fried aubergines in tomato sauce, £6.50), then do it right with pancia di maiale arrosto (slow-roasted pork belly with sweet and sour carrots, £14) Drink that: Wet your whistle with an Aperol Spritz (£9).

The setup: After the success of their stunning handmade pasta at Trullo in Highbury, Tim Siadatan and Jordan Frieda have opened Padella near Borough Market. Fantastic, afordable and comforting food, guaranteed. Eat this: The meat is great but we would give actual body parts for a plate of pappardelle with eighthour-roasted beef shin ragu (£9). Drink that: A carafe of Dolcetto d’Alba from Piedmont (£18) would certainly see you through lunch.

The setup: The “best pizzeria in London” used to be in Ealing… and it still is. But they now have an outpost in Chelsea. Simply put, Santa Maria serves the kind of pizza that Neapolitans would fly over for. Eat this: The homemade focaccia with mozzarella (£4.95), a Santa Bufalina pizza (£8.95) and a scoop of Oddono’s gelati (£2.70, any flavour). Drink that: Order a cold bottle of Nastro Azzurro Peroni (£3.50). PH


TASTE Flame on: The indomitable Pornstar Martini; (inset) blasting cocktails at Suburbia

THE CLUB

Suburbia Following its success as the favourite cocktail bar of Premier League footballers in Hale, Cheshire, Suburbia opened a second venue in Manchester, hosting Wags with eight-litre Martinis and world champion boxers in the mood for celebration Can we come in?

“We want nice people who make an effort to dress up,” explains managing director Tom ThorntonBrookes. “This is inspired by bars like Death & Company in New York,” he continues, hoping to emulate the East Village cocktail bar. Does it work?

The blondes drinking an eight-litre Pornstar Martini (£250) seemed happy sitting in booths among the brickwork and steel. That’s Ketel One, Passoã, lemon juice, sugar syrup and pineapple juice, topped with Bottega Gold prosecco. Or try The Cheshire Set, a champagne and gin mix with Tanqueray, crème de mure, lemon, apple and cranberry juice. And for those tired footballers?

The Beer Sharer: Albelha Cachaca, lime juice and sugar syrup topped off with Brazilian beer Brahma. Cocktails are mostly under £10, a Strawberry Daiquiri costs £7. Entry is free before 11pm, £10 after. Sounds good. What about the United experience?

There are five private booths available (minimum spend of £500) but the VIP table seats up to 30 people and has a minimum spend of £1,500. World super-bantomweight champion Carl Frampton celebrated his win over Scott Quigg with a party here in February. Let the music play.

“Music for girls to dance to,” smiles Sarha, wife of owner Tom as DJ Jay Ross plays Sean Paul for the smartly dressed 25-40 crowd. They’re proud of their trouble-free record since opening. The girls start dancing at 11pm on a Friday and Saturday and the boys join in well before the 4am finish. Andy Mitten O4a Ridgefield, Manchester M2 6EQ. 0161 839 9368. suburbiacocktail.com

THE BAKERY

Pump Street Bakery “THE best croissant I’ve eaten outside of France.” Not our words reader, but the words of a bona fide, garlic-garland wearing, Breton-top sporting French woman. The owner of the Pump Street Bakery in Orford, Suffolk, should be chuffed. Retired computer whiz Chris Brennan set out to produce bread and pastries as good as he’d eaten on the Parisian Left Bank in 2007; the shop and café itself opened in 2009, now run by his daughter Joanna. If a handmade croissant (200-300 lovingly folded with butter each Saturday) doesn’t seem indulgent enough, sink your teeth into an Eccles cake (right) or Bear Claw – a fairly intimidating Danish pastry whose lightness defies its size. Jonathan Heaf O1 Pump Street, Orford, Suffolk, IP12 2LZ. 01394 459829. pumpstreetbakery.com JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 97


Requires Sky Q box and subscription. Save selected recordings from last 90 days to compatible tablet (www.sky.com/SkyQdevices) with app connected to home broadband. Viewing limits apply. Peppa Pig Š Astley Baker Davies Ltd / Entertainment One UK Ltd 2003.


HOW WE LIVE PORTRAIT BY

Mike Blackett

GQ’s young digital doyen lays out the essentials in his eyeline – from cutting-edge audio tech to cult cinema classics

This month: OLIVER JAMIESON, Designer, GQ CULTURE

GEAR

On my nightstand: iPad Mini; difuser by Tom Dixon On my bookshelf: Mr Nice by Howard Marks; The Revenant by Michael Punke (above) Listening to: “Firestone” by Kygo; Lukas Graham by Lukas Graham (below) Exhibition: I Am The Greatest: Muhammad Ali at The O2 Museum: Design Museum, London TV: Luther; Better Call Saul Websites: Time Out; Netflix; Fonts In Use Looking forward to: Uefa Euro 2016 Bars: The Piano Works, Farringdon; Foundation Bar, Covent Garden (below) Last show: The Lion King Film: The Warriors; Seven

Phone: iPhone 6 Audio (indoors): ZiPP wireless speaker by Libratone (below) Audio (outdoors): Headphones by RHA Watch: Ma by Paul Smith (above) To drive: Ford Mustang 5.0 V8 GT (below) Running shoes: Roshe Run trainers by Nike TV: 49in 3-D Smart TV by Panasonic Apps: Sky Go; BBC Sport Gadget: MacBook Pro by Apple Podcast: Serial Three things to buy: BeoPlay A9 by Bang & Olufsen; HOY Aomori 001 2016 road bike from Evans Cycles; Leica T (Typ 701) camera by Leica

Photographs Jody Todd Grooming Laura Dexter using Dermalogica

STYLE AND GROOMING Jacket: Bomber by Paul Smith (pictured) Fragrance: Noir by Tom Ford (right) Jeans: Selvedge denim by Topman Go-to T-shirt: Crewneck by Cos Shirt: Denim shirt by Ralph Lauren (right) Dress shoes: Lace-up boots by Oliver Sweeney Informal shoes: Converse (above) Sportswear: Revolution sideline stretch woven by Nike (above) Bag: Jerry backpack by Sandqvist Holdall: Travel bag by Barbour Skin care: Moisturiser by Lab Series Sunglasses: Wayfarers by Ray-Ban (right) Wallet: Card holder by Mulberry Barber: Menspire, St Albans Suit: Hugo Boss

STIMULATION To drink: Hendrick’s Gin (left) To shop: Westfield, White City To visit: Auckland, New Zealand To watch: Limitless; Blindspot City: Rome, Italy Restaurant: Gaucho, Piccadilly Sport: Powerleague Watford View: Anglesey, Wales Last holiday: Reykjavík, Iceland Last followed on Instagram: @payetdimitri27 (above) JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 101


VITALITY MIND, BODY AND SPIR ITUAL W ELLBEING

How to... Break bad habits Beat depression Get motivated

Wellness

Life lessons from a meditation master Nutrition

Healthy hardware and how to use it Fitness

Work the body, calm the mind, lose the clothes

I N A S S O C I AT I O N W I T H

JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 103


An intense, full-body workout to improve posture and sculpt your muscles.

EDITOR’S LETTER Wellness is defined as a state of complete mental, physical and social wellbeing: feeling better about our emotions, bodies and outlook on life. And who wouldn’t want to achieve that? That’s why for the past few years, GQ has been increasing its holistic healthy-living content to reflect the importance of looking after body, mind and spirit. From diet and exercise to mindfulness and environmental influences, we’ve had an overwhelmingly positive response to wellness. And we aren’t alone. More and more of you are taking your mental health as seriously as your physical wellbeing, and that’s why this month we have partnered with Selfridges and its new Body Studio to produce GQ Vitality: a guide to exploring mindfulness, developing wellness, discovering new ways of getting fit and picking the kit to guarantee you reach your goals (plus, we’ll show you how to look good doing it). Sounds good, doesn’t it? We bet you are feeling better already... Paul Henderson, Editor

SEEK ENLIGHTENMENT BEYOND THE GYM Give yourself a psychological makeover and take consciousness to a whole new level.

CONTRIBUTORS Editor-in-Chief Dylan Jones Editor Paul Henderson Creative Director Paul Solomons Art Director Phill Fields Chief Sub-Editor George Chesterton Picture Director Ger Tierney Managing Editor Mark Russell Editorial Assistant Eleanor Halls Cover photograph by Alessandro Sigismondi

The path to peace and happiness is, according to the Danes, this simple.


VITALITY

Aquatic therapy that manipulates joints, eases muscle tension and aids relaxation.

Shed your clothing and your inhibitions in the most liberating form of yoga.

Take a breather. Leave the high-intensity boot camps and psychotic spin classes behind and try an alternative fitness class that will boost your mind and body... STORY BY

Alex Godfrey

1 Dynamic Pilates

Photographs Heartcore Fitness; Instagram/@thealexthegirl Grooming Alice Howlett Model Federico Filipponi at IMG

What is it? An hour’s worth of hard, fast exercises providing maximum body workout in minimum time. What are the benefits? A refined, sculpted, super-toned physique to improve flexibility and strengthen your neglected muscles and pelvic floor, so it’s great for your sex life.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY

Andrew Urwin

2

3

Watsu

Naked Yoga

What is it? Water shiatsu. Pressured massage, assisted stretching and joint manipulation... in a pool.

What is it? Well, it’s yoga, and yes, it’s very much in the nude.

What are the benefits? Watsu is supremely relaxing, can reduce pain and improve your posture. It is physically and, some say, emotionally revitalising.

What’s the science? An incredibly intense workout on a reformer bed (which looks like a medieval torture rack), this is designed to burn lots of calories quickly. Adjustable pulleys attached to hooks go around your hands and feet to isolate specific muscle groups. A series of exercises strengthen your core and lower back muscles.

What’s the science? During one-on-one sessions – like those at the Akasha Wellbeing Centre at London’s Café Royal – of this passive aquatic therapy, you are supported up to your chest in warm water while your practitioner cradles, stretches and massages you. The combination of the warm water, breathing patterns and gentle physical work relaxes your muscles and can calm your body.

Find out more... heartcore.co.uk

Find out more at... hotelcaferoyal.com

What are the benefits? Above and beyond yoga’s regular wonders, devotees believe practising it sans clothing is the discipline’s most freeing form, and say it reduces stress and anxiety. What’s the science? Bare your body, bare your soul. Other than setting yourself physically free, with none of that fiddly fabric getting in the way, shedding yourself of your clothes should help you to shed some of that psychological baggage too. You are hiding nothing, being comfortable with your body, and thus with yourself, free from inhibitions and opening yourself to bliss. Find out more at... nakedyogalondon.co.uk

4 Transcendental Meditation What is it? Mantra meditation, sat down with your eyes shut, for 20 minutes a day. What are the benefits? Advocates say it helps them to focus, and to enjoy the immediate. Some believe it can lower blood pressure, reduce anxiety, increase clarity and give you a strong sense of peace. What’s the science? Transcendental meditation is a customised experience – to begin with, you’ll have a few sessions with an instructor who will work out what’s best for you. Sitting in silence and repeating a mantra leads to slower breathing, enabling you to relax your mind and shut of your brain, let go of your environment and reach – possibly – transcendence. Find out more... uk.tm.org

5 Hygge What is it? A Danish practice that simply requires you to get cosy, as much and as often as circumstances allow. Candles are deployed generously. What are the benefits? You will enjoy life. But... more so. Comfort and cosiness enable peace and happiness. What’s the science? Denmark is one of the world’s happiest countries, and it’s because they’re such keen practitioners of hygge. Their winters boast 17 hours of darkness a day, and the Danes compensate by lighting candles, reading books, drinking mulled wine, eating homemade pastries... kind of like Boxing Day, but forever. Increasing cosiness helps to dissipate worries. Find out more... hyggehouse.com JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 105


Le Slip Français Iconic Stretch-Cotton Briefs, £30. Available at Selfridges Oxford Street, London and selfridges.com

Sweatshirt by Maison Margiela, £295. At Selfridges. selfridges.com

Vitality tip Try the superfood kefir, a milk drink from the Caucasus Mountains made by inoculating milk with yeast and bacteria. It’s high in minerals and vitamins. Nourish Kefir is available in Selfridges Foodhall.


VITALITY G Partnership

PERSONAL BEST What you wear every day doesn’t have to be ordinary. Selfridges showcases the new underwear that will make you look and feel like you are living in life’s front row

Tommy Hilfiger Colour Block Trunks, £22. Available at Selfridges stores and selfridges.com

Vitality tip When sitting at your computer, remember the 20-20-20 rule: every 20 minutes, spend 20 seconds looking at something 20 feet away out of the window. It prevents eye strain and trains your eyes in what’s known as “accommodation” – when your eye muscles change focus from distance to close-up.

Jumper by Thom Browne, £850. At Selfridges. selfridges.com


6

TED TALKS TO INSPIRE

Created in 1984 by American architect Richard Saul Wurman, TED is the whizzy not-for-profit organisation aimed at spreading ideas about technology, entertainment and design. Today, one of TED’s most popular topics is mental health, with experts speaking about anything from depression to dieting. Here are six of the best, and what you can learn from them... STORY BY

Eleanor Halls

How to beat depression

How to break bad habits

by Zindel Segal

by Judson Brewer

Talk title: The Mindful Way Through Depression Who? Psychologist Segal has worked with mood disorders for over 30 years and is one of the founders of mindfulness-based cognitive therapy. Premise: Segal’s approach does not set out to stop sadness altogether, as it is integral to life. But with cognitive therapy (which challenges negative thoughts) and mindfulness (which teaches awareness of the moment without judgement), we can anchor ourselves in our negative experience and choose a response.

Talk title: A Simple Way To Break A Habit

Mindful lesson learned:

Mindfulness-based cognitive therapy is best viewed as a way of life rather than a treatment. It retrains and rebalances the way the mind works to combat depression. See for yourself:

tedxtalks.ted.com/ video/The-MindfulWay-Through-Depr essi;TEDxUTSC

Who? Psychiatrist and internationally renowned expert in mindfulness training, Brewer is constantly developing new mindfulness programmes for beating addictions. Premise: This brief talk gets straight to the point: bad habits are the product of the trigger, reward and repeat pattern. Brewer says it is difficult to stop smoking through force, but if a smoker smokes mindfully and with curiosity, they will become disgusted and disillusioned with their habit. Mindful lesson learned: When we get curious we step out of our old fear-based reactive habit patterns. “Notice the urge, get curious, feel the joy of letting go and repeat,” says Brewer. See for yourself: ted.com/talks/jud son_brewer_a_simp le_way_to_break _ a_bad_habit

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ILLUSTRATIONS BY

Kolchaz

How to be happy

How to lose weight

How to get motivated

by Matthieu Ricard

by Sandra Aamodt

by Scott Geller

Talk title: The Habits Of Happiness Who? French writer and Buddhist monk Ricard is often referred to as “the happiest man in the world”. Ricard began as a molecular biologist and now resides in his hermitage in the Himalayas. Premise: In his happy and humorous talk Ricard suggests all our emotions have antidotes, since every emotion is fleeting and can be changed. We can find these antidotes through meditation and mind training. Mindful lesson learned: To look

outside of ourselves for happiness is a doomed quest, since control of anything external to us is illusory, limited and temporary. See for yourself:

ted.com/talks/ matthieu_ricard _on_the_habits_ of_happiness

Talk title: Why Dieting Doesn’t Usually Work Who? Neuroscientist and science writer Aamodt is the author of Why Diets Make Us Fat: The Unintended Consequences Of Our Obsession With Weight Loss – And What To Do Instead. Premise: It all began when Aamodt, who had always struggled with compulsive dieting and was shocked by the statistic that 80 per cent of girls in the US are on a diet by the age of ten, made a new year’s resolution to stop dieting and eat mindfully instead. This method involves listening to your body’s signals, eating slowly and with awareness. Mindful lesson learned: “If diets worked, we would all be thin already.” See for yourself: ted.com/talks/sand ra_aamodt_wh y_ dieting_doesn_t_ usually_work

Talk title: The Psychology Of Self-Motivation Who? Geller has written more than 350 articles and 75 books and chapters about evaluating behaviourchanging strategies on anything from crime prevention to litter control for improving quality of life. Premise: This exuberant talk features a snare drum and a poem recital. Geller’s big idea? That self-motivation and peer-to-peer motivation lead to empowerment. Showing others they are competent increases their competence and your own.

How to harness stress by Kelly McGonigal

Talk title: How To Make Stress Your Friend Who? Health psychologist McGonigal is author of the international bestseller The

Willpower Instinct and hers is one of the 20 most popular TED talks, with more than 10 million views.

Mindful lesson learned: “It’s all about

Premise: McGonigal realised that for ten years she had been telling her patients that stress was the enemy, when in fact it could be beneficial to mental and physical health. Research shows people under high stress who believe this stress is positive lead much longer lives than those under relatively little stress.

how you communicate to yourself and to others.” In a nutshell, act like you’re successful and the chances are success will follow.

Mindful lesson learned: Stress connects us with our emotions. Its physical symptoms are your body telling you to rise to the challenge.

See for yourself:

See for yourself: ted.com/talks/ kelly_mcgonigal_ how_to_make_ stress_your_friend

tedxtalks.ted.com/ video/The-Psych ology-of-Self-Mot ivati


VITALITY

THE SHAPE OF THINGS TO COME STRETCH WITH...

Hyperice Vyper This high-intensity roller is used as a recovery tool to loosen and lengthen muscles, increase circulation and reduce stifness. With three vibration speeds and a rechargeable lithium battery, it will bring new life to tired legs. The Team GB swimmers have been using it to help prepare them for the Rio Olympics. £140. hyperice.co.uk

Sometimes all you need to motivate yourself to dig deeper and tone up body and mind is the right kit. These high-tech and fine-design products will help you achieve health, fitness and serenity in style STORY BY

Paul Henderson

PHOTOGRAPHS BY

Luke Kirwan

WALK IN...

Of-White C/O Virgil Abloh Virgil Abloh likes to keep busy. Not only is he Kanye West’s creative director and a highly-respected DJ, but he has his own Milan-based fashion label. Of-White was launched in 2014 and is a mix of street style and high fashion. His latest collection includes these minimal marble-print low-tops. £295. Available in Mens at Selfridges stores and selfridges.com

MEDITATE WITH...

Master & Dynamic MW60 Master & Dynamic has quickly become one of the star players in the premium audio market. Its latest over-the-ear headphones continue to deliver striking design and impeccable sound in equal measure, but they now come with a wireless function which might just be the best around. £419. Available in Technology on LG at Selfridges Oxford Street, London and selfridges.com

BE ACTIVE IN...

Fitbit Alta The new Alta ofers an hourly “stand up” reminder and prompts to help you meet your step goals. The bands are now interchangeable and customisable, and one charge lasts almost a week. It also has exercise recognition, so at least someone will notice you working out. £100. Available in Technology on LG at Selfridges Oxford Street, London and selfridges.com

RIDE IN...

Paul Smith 531 The menswear designer and cycling obsessive’s latest range caters for fair-weather riders getting ready for summer. Using ultra-light, super-breathable technical fabrics and Smith’s keen eye for style, this year’s collection will give Rapha and Vulpine wearers some serious decisions to make. Available in Mens at Selfridges stores and selfridges.com JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 109


Vitality tip

Bjorn Borg Camouflage Active Trunk, ÂŁ30. Available at Selfridges stores and selfridges.com

Vest and watch, Stylists own

Beef up your yoga class with Yung Club, a new combination of ashtanga and kundalini yoga that incorporates exercise, light and sound. Classes are available from 25 May to 10 June at Bodywork on LG at Selfridges Oxford Street, London.


VITALITY G Partnership

Lacoste Lacoste Euro Trunk, £22. Available at Selfridges stores and selfridges.com

Vitality tip The best sleep is before midnight. A typical night’s sleep is split into four or five cycles, each lasting between 90 and 120 minutes. You get more deep sleep in the early stages of the night, and more dream sleep in the latter stages. This explains why your best-quality sleep is typically before midnight.

Pyjama set by La Perla, £335. Available at Selfridges. selfridges.com. Ladies chemise by Myla, £215. Available from the new Body Studio on 3 at Selfridges Oxford Street, London


YOUR FOOD REVOLUTION The tools that will transform your healthy eating routine, plus how to use them... STORY BY

Paul Henderson Luke Kirwan

PHOTOGRAPHS BY

1 George Foreman Evolve Grill The lean mean grilling machine, is now... leaner and meaner. The Evolve can remove up to 42 per cent of fat, comes with a deep bake pan and has a “sear” setting that boosts heat to 260 degrees for steak and fish. £149. georgeforeman.co.uk

Ingredients (Serves 4) Juice of ½ lemon Juice of ½ orange Salt and pepper 4 organic salmon fillets Zest of an orange 2 tablespoon of brown sugar or honey 1 tablespoon of chili powder 1 minced garlic clove Method 1. Mix the lemon juice, orange juice, salt and pepper. Marinade the salmon for 20 minutes.

2 Cuisinart Soup Maker Combining cooking and blending to get the most out of vegetables, this specialises in homemade broths, stocks, sauces, risottos and even smoothies. Make them as healthy or as decadent as your conscience allows. £140. Available at Selfridges stores and selfridges.com

3 NutriBullet Rx NutriBullet remains king of the blended beverage and the blitzer now comes with a superfast 1700-watt power motor to create smooth juice. The Rx also has a “souper blast” function that allows you to prepare hot soups too. £199. Available at Selfridges stores and selfridges.com

Sizzling summer salmon

Butternut, coconut & chilli soup

Cleansing green blast

Healthy recipe to try

Healthy recipe to try

Healthy recipe to try

2. In a small dish, combine the orange zest, brown sugar or honey, chili powder and minced garlic, then coat the salmon with the mixture. 3. Sear the salmon on a high temperature for two to four minutes, depending on the size of the fillets and how pink you like your salmon. 4. Serve with salad and potatoes – they can be hot or cold depending on your preference.

112 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016

Ingredients (Serves 2) 1 butternut squash 1 teaspoon of chilli 1 red onion, sliced 600ml of stock 200ml of coconut milk Method 1. Peel the butternut squash and cut in half. Cut the flesh into 2.5cm pieces. Spread the pieces on a baking tray and roast for 15 minutes. 2. Remove the tray from the oven and scatter the chilli and onion over the pieces of squash. Roast for a further 10 minutes.

Remove from the oven and allow to cool for a few minutes. 3. Pour the stock into the soup maker and cook on a low heat for 20 minutes. Stir in coconut milk and warm for two minutes. 5. Add the squash, onions and chilli to the soup maker with the stock. Blitz until smooth, then season to taste.

From The Detox Kitchen Bible by Lily Simpson and Rob Hobson (Bloomsbury, £25) is out now.

At just under 200 calories, this smoothie “blast” has all the inflammation-fighting power of pineapple, the metabolismboosting force of cayenne, and fiber-rich kale and pear, this is one breakfast drink that’ll help prevent those troubling afternoon cravings.

Ingredients (Serves 2) 1 cup kale ½ cup pineapple ½ pear Juice of ½ lemon 3 slices of cucumber ¼ teaspoon of cayenne pepper 1 tablespoon of SuperFood Cleansing Greens 1 ½ cups coconut water Method 1. Add all ingredients and extract for 30 seconds, or until smooth.


VITALITY

Table for two Wellness women of the moment Melissa and Jasmine Hemsley share their health tips ahead of their first café opening

4 Tefal ActiFry If you can’t live without stir-fries or chips, the newest ActiFry from Tefal is the low-fat solution. Using just one spoonful of oil (and, of course, we’re talking coconut), this stylish cooker guarantees crisp and crunch with far fewer calories. £200. tefal.co.uk

Ingredients (Serves 4) 1kg sweet potatoes 1 ActiFry spoon of coconut oil ½ tablespoon paprika ½ tablespoon sea salt

Styling Nico Ghirlando

Method 1. Peel the potatoes, cut into chips of equal thickness, rinse thoroughly in water, then drain well. Spread the chips onto a tea towel and dry thoroughly. (The drier they are, the better they will crisp up.) 2. Place the fries in a bowl with half a spoon

What is the healthiest food in the world? There isn’t one single food and that’s the beauty of it. Real food is packed with nutrients and it’s the sum of those foods eaten together that make it useful to the body. But if we had to choose one, we’ll go with the golden elixir – bone broth – which is at the very heart of our philosophy.

5 Spiralizer No health-conscious household should be without a spiralizer. The vegetable noodle makers come in all shapes and sizes, but do the same thing: stop you eating pasta and getting fat. Vegetable ribbons are here to stay. By Hemsley + Hemsley, £30. Available at Selfridges stores and selfridges.com

Paprika fries

Celeriac spaghetti and kale carbonara

Healthy recipe to try

Healthy recipe to try

of melted coconut oil and the paprika. Coat the chips evenly. 3. Transfer the chips to the ActiFry pan and drizzle over the other half-spoon of oil. Cook for 30-40 minutes until the chips are cooked – crisp on the outside, fluffy on the inside. Season with sea salt.

Ingredients (Serves 4) 3 eggs 100g of parmesan 100g of pancetta 1 squashed garlic clove 25g of butter 1 large celeriac 150g of kale leaves Salt and pepper Method 1. Beat the eggs, then mix in the grated parmesan (reserve some for later), and season. 2. Heat a large pan, add the chopped pancetta, garlic and butter. Heat

for five minutes until crisp. Discard the garlic. 3. Peel the celeriac and spiralize. Add it to the pan with the pancetta and cover, cooking for ten mins. Add the kale and cook for another two minutes until tender. 4. Take off the heat and pour in the eggs and cheese and mix. Season to taste and sprinkle with the remaining parmesan to serve.

From Good + Simple by Jasmine and Melissa Hemsley (Ebury Press, £19) is out now.

What are the three ingredients no kitchen should be without? Lemons. Good quality sea salt. Butter. And what are the three ingredients we should throw away now? Refined vegetable oils. Processed snack foods. Table salt. And refined sugar... OK, that’s four, but they’re all important. Tell us one healthy eating Instagrammer we should follow? Sarah Wilson (@_sarahwilson_). She is the author of the bestseller I Quit Sugar. What is the perfect pre-workout meal? Our drop egg soup, made with nourishing bone broth, healthy fats, tons of greens and protein-packed eggs. It’s quick and easy, and requires no cooking skills. If we only eat one thing at the Hemsley + Hemsley Cafe, what should it be? It totally depends on what you fancy. If it’s breakfast, go for the quinoa courgette toast topped with avocado and feta. For a main dish maybe our Moroccan chicken stew with cauliflower tabouleh and crispy chicken skin. And make sure you try our Paradise Bars. What is the best healthy alcoholic drink? We use Chase English potato vodka, as opposed to wheat-based varieties, in our blueberry, lime and lavender cocktail, which is on the menu at the café. Hemsley + Hemsley Café is open from 9.30am-9pm. Available at the Body Studio on 3 at Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, London, W1. 0800 123 400. selfridges.com


Calvin Klein Iron Strength Low Rise Trunk, ÂŁ25. Available at Selfridges stores and selfridges.com

Vitality tip Men with coarse, curly beards can get razor bumps (or pseudofolliculitis barbae) – inflamed, red bumps on the face and neck. To avoid them, wash with a mild cleanser and warm water before you shave, and then use a very sharp razor and a shaving gel designed for sensitive skin.


VITALITY G Partnership Suit jacket by Richard James, £945. Shirt by Smyth & Gibson, £160. Pocket square, £40. Bow tie, £100. Both by Lanvin. All at Selfridges. selfridges.com

Sunspel Classic Boxers, £31. Available at Selfridges Oxford Street, London and selfridges.com

Vitality tip Keep your necktie and shirt collar fairly loose. A study in the British Journal Of Ophthalmology discovered that tight ties and collars can press on the jugular vein and cause glaucoma. In severe cases this damages the optic nerve and results in loss of vision.

This summer, Selfridges will be placing itself on the frontline of the bodywear and wellbeing movement, with its everyBODY campaign. Designed to inspire followers of all things health-orientated, Selfridges will host new product launches, capsule collections and exclusive products that echo founder Harry Gordon’s maxim of “Everyone is welcome”. Selfridges menswear offerings will see an emphasis in fitness, tech and sports-inspired fashion. And don’t forget to visit the new Body Studio on 3, at Selfridges Oxford Street, London, the perfect solution to any gifting dilemmas for the woman in your life. Innovative, inspiring and aspirational: Selfridges’ everyBODY campaign is what everybody needs.


VITALITY

Life lessons from meditation and mindfulness expert, the co-founder of Headspace Andy Puddicombe Breakfast of champions? In the week I pick up a smoothie on the way to the office. It’s a vegan protein chocolate smoothie, with blueberries and spinach added to the mix – it tastes better than it sounds! But at the weekend, I eat all homemade food. My wife makes the best raw granola with coconut yoghurt, normally washed down with some fresh mint tea.

Your best ever decision was…

There are two. The first was to go and train as a Buddhist monk. The second was to leave the monastery and team up with my friend Rich Pierson to create Headspace and make meditation more accessible. Instinct or information? Instinct for sure. That’s not to say that information and data are any less important, but if I had to choose between the two, then I would always go with that gut feel. I love that feeling when you just know that it’s the right course of action, but have no logical way to explain it or back it up. Meditation has really helped me with this over the years, not only having more clarity, but being confident in listening to that intuition and acting upon it.

Your best piece of advice… One of my teachers at the monastery simplified everything for me once: “Be present, be kind, not just as a nice idea  or philosophy, but as an experience, as a way of being, as a way of life.”

Why should we meditate? Your reason is our reason. Meditation is defined by the intention of the individual, so it’s impossible to give just one reason. One person might want to use it to sleep better and reduce stress levels; another might want to improve performance and focus; while others might just long for happier and more harmonious relationships. But whatever the reason, Headspace provides a no-nonsense approach that is both authentic and accessible.

116 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016

When do you start your day? I live in California. I have a young child, so the day begins when he wakes up, which is usually around 5am. The morning routine involves reading him a few stories, doing some meditation, having breakfast and heading for a surf or going to the gym. But the order of these things changes every day.

When do you get to the office? My work is really varied, so it changes day-to-day. I spend a lot of time travelling, giving talks and that kind of thing. But if I’m in at the office, then I’m usually recording new content for the app. I’ll get in there around 7.30 or 8am and, after a quick chat with the sound engineer, begin recording and go pretty much straight through to lunchtime.

Your motto for living is… “Nothing is more important than the health and happiness of the mind”  – the mind is our most precious resource, defining our entire experience of life. We can have all the material possessions we could ever wish for, be with our dream partner, even have that perfect six pack, but if the mind is not healthy and happy then it means nothing.

When does your day end? If I’m at the office then I’ll try to be away by 6pm, so I make it back home in time to give our son a bath and read him a bedtime story. My wife usually takes over at that point while I finish of with emails and that kind of thing. Once he’s asleep, we’ll have dinner together, catch up on the day, and then perhaps watch some Netflix.

What are you proudest of? Headspace has been at the forefront of demystifying meditation, encouraging a shift in the way society thinks about the health of the mind. We’ve had well over six million downloads and have millions of people meditating daily, most of whom had never even considered meditation before. To reach these people, to give them the tools they need to lead a happy life; and to hear about the impact meditation has had on both their personal lives and their relationships is incredibly inspiring for us here at Headspace. For more information visit headspace.com.

Photographs Alamy; Getty Images

CALMER SCORES


FROM GQ! INTERACTIVE EDITIONS Available to download from the App Store and Google Play


T   STORY BY

Michael Wolf

120 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016

he expectation from the very beginning of the Donald Trump campaign, and never leaving it, was that he would fail. Even when he did not, the certainty on the part of everyone but his closest supporters, and perhaps them too, was that he would not be president. This was a campaign, peculiarly, of the heart – indeed, of a peculiar heart. In a way, the assumption that he would fail buoyed him and kept him alive from one calamity after another. What did it matter him saying – insert whatever it was that he had preposterously said – if, of course, he was going to be finished eventually anyway? Curiously, the fact, the absolute fact, that he would not and could not win did not at all

lessen his dramatic persona, it increased it. The sense of watching history unfold has not been unlike in 2008 witnessing the first black man become president, only this time it is watching the first unabashed egomaniac and obviousl narcissist make a serious bid for the White House. The historical significance of Donald Trump’s campaign, this elevation of a man who could not win, may actually be greater than in 2008, and up there in terms of political transformation with Watergate or the Kennedy assassination. The narrative (never has the word been used so often) has not just been about how he would destroy himself but about what else he would take down with him. The Republican Party? Conservatism? The political system? The media?

Photograph Getty Images

Despite his bluster and bravado – despite his billions – this divisive demagogue looks certain to fail in the race for the White House. But he’ll have the last laugh. Even in defeat, Trump will rise above the next leader of the free world to change American politics forever


MICHAEL WOLFF

Expression of power What do Donald Trump’s facial features say about his worthiness for the White House? We asked expert Safron Ellidge to reveal the secrets his face can’t hide

The hair His comb-over artfully hides his fairly low forehead – concealing his lack of intellect.

Broad face His broad, rectangular face makes some of the US electorate believe he would be a good leader – he can handle lots of people and come across as personable and strong in character. But can he be trusted to deliver? Not according to his eyes.

Narrowed eyes

Long, bushy eyebrows

Someone who’s always looking sideways at you is shifty. Do not trust this man! Both eyes are shifty – he doesn’t even try to hide his cunning. The lower eyelid is tight, so he’s secretive, too. Upward slanting eyes: he’s an opportunist. Sharp inner canthi: he relishes using words as weapons to wound his opponents.

A touch of the “mad scientist” – but does he know when his ideas aren’t so great? No! The bushiness gives him forcefulness with which to mow other people down.

Long nose Yes, he’s ambitious. Worryingly, he thinks he’s straight-talking too. Narrow nose tip means small penis, natch.

Protruding ears

On reflection...

He only hears what he wants to hear; and, unfortunately for us, he loves taking risks – especially financial ones (wide ears).

The cold, ruthless look in Trump’s eyes gives me the creeps. If the electorate can’t see that he is projecting a false persona to win their confidence, we can only hope he self-destructs. Will Trump’s ego come crashing down? He’s more insecure than he’d have us believe (mottled chin and white eye circles). His purpose lines (nose to mouth) tail of and his jaw isn’t well defined, so my prediction would be that he can’t keep up the momentum and won’t be elected president.

Downturned mouth Disappointments and resentment have led to a bitter twist in his campaigning. He’s out for himself; voters will find he’s not interested in equality or helping others.

Slack jawline His morals are as loose and wobbly as the flesh here. Jowls show entrenched beliefs.

JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 121


The entire point of the Trump campaign, given its frisson and its can’t-take-youreyes-off-it-ness, is how it would end. Politics is about keeping going and about building support. Your strength as a politician comes from the belief that you will be there the next day and that you will be a factor to deal with – perhaps an ever-more potent and entrenched factor to deal with. The worst status for a politician, after only defeat itself, is as a lame duck. But Trump has made his inevitable end the very reason for his being. His political strength comes from his weakness – the beast can’t live, but surely won’t die quietly. As I write this in early April, he is in another nadir of professional expectation. Anybody who knows anything knows that he is finished. Mike Murphy, by almost everyone’s opinion the most astute political operative in the US – despite having led Jeb Bush’s political action committee throughout the 2016 campaign – the other day declared that Trump had “jumped the shark”. Murphy predicted that the media would shortly, “go from treating Trump like an amazing dancing mule act – ‘Wow, I’ve never seen a mule dance the jitterbug like that! Amazing! Get him a TV show! Call the neighbours!’ – to asking, ‘Why is that mule crapping on the carpet? Who brought that stinky creature in here?!’” Arguably – although this has been argued many times before – Trump of late, finally and irrevocably, crossed the litmus conservative line. If the one thing, above all others, that you cannot do as a Republican candidate is to support abortion, then Trump had, peculiarly, gone one step further than that. He suggested, with a very un-Trump-like reasonableness, that if abortion were illegal then the woman having the abortion should rightly be punished for contributing to the crime. That is the logical flaw on which the anti-abortion rights movement exists and they had, until Trump, artfully and necessarily dodged around the point of a woman’s culpability. But Trump, in his own childlike way, said the unsayable Republican thing: if you followed the logic of anti-abortion advocates then you’d surely have to put women in jail, a politically unpalatable, if not risible, point of view. You could almost palpably sense the “oh my God” that ran through the Republican Party – “He’s going to destroy us!”

O  

f course, this was hardly the first time Trump had wandered offscript and found himself challenging, or even crapping on, Republican shibboleths. If his abortion gaffe was astounding, it was no more so than his suggestion that John McCain and his vaunted prisoner of war record – finely connected to the Republican Party’s long 122 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016

veneration of all things military – was hardly something to be proud of. Nobody of any political intelligence anywhere expected Trump to survive after characterising McCain as a loser for getting captured. And, indeed, now, finally, really – how could it be otherwise – the time was coming, soon, very soon, within days, when it would be clear that he really, actually, obviously could not survive. As I write, the end of Donald Trump is occurring yet again, but certainly for real this time. Well, almost certainly. In the end, you just can’t argue with the numbers. Even Trump cannot defy political math. He needs 1,237 votes by the time of the first ballot at the Republican convention in Cleveland in July to get the nomination. And

You sense the Republican Party saying, ‘Oh my God. He’s going to destroy us’

Seeing red: Protests in New York against Trump’s proposed immigration policies, 19 March 2016

unless he is vastly closer to that number than anyone else – most notably Ted Cruz, the only real contender left in the race – he will, by the logical maths of the remaining primaries, yet fall short. On the second ballot, many of those votes – which, after an unsuccessful first ballot would no longer be legally committed to him – will flee to other candidates. Now, to what other candidate, is far from sure, Ted Cruz having survived so far only as a contrast to Trump – and the palest contrast in the party at that. The end of Trump, as it was being imagined by political professionals, was for politics as usual to resume. His gaffes, lack of establishment support, weak on-the-ground organisation and dissing of women and Hispanics would now finally catch up with him and, in the eyes of the Republican base, quickly turn him into a figure woefully without political currency. A loser. The fact that this was supposed to have happened a long time ago but had not happened did not mean it would not yet happen – and, given political reality, must yet happen. The numbers! Politics is numbers. At this moment in time, were he to be the nominee, he would be the most despised figure ever to run for president. Certainly no politician had ever seemed to be such an absolute anathema to women – the single most important


MICHAEL WOLFF

American declaration: Trump speaks at a rally in Michigan. Four days later he won the state’s Republican Primary, 4 March 2016

voting block in national politics. There was, in the view of every political practitioner across the spectrum, simply no calculation by which he could be president. To which, almost everyone, including almost everyone with any stake in the future of the Republican Party, said, “Thank God.” So, if this wasn’t the end, what, pray tell, would the end actually look like when it came?

Photograph Getty Images

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hat question had not changed since the beginning. In this, the political pros, wrong so completely, are right. It must end, because if it doesn’t it is a political apocalypse anyway – so it would end that way, in cataclysmic political suicide. It is quite possible that he might lose all 50 states, taking the Republican majority in the House and Senate with him. Indeed, if there is any certainty, it is that the Trump support, his base, is not growing. Solidifying perhaps. Quite possibly becoming rock hard in its loyalty as well as its resentments. But not growing. Finally not growing. Topped out. A rump caucus of older white men without a college education. But what was wholly unclear, and something that no one had the certainty or the chops to reliably speculate on, was how it would end. Or even who in the Republican party would survive.

Trump’s win will be cultural, commercial and far greater than the White House

There has not been a truly contested or open political convention in America since the early Fifties. That means there has been no true public political fight since the advent of modern media – no doubt in part because of modern media. Nobody knows what it would even look like. In 1968, the explosion outside the Democratic convention in Chicago changed politics in America for two generations afterward. Nobody knows how the process itself would react now to bedlam – public bedlam. Nobody knows anything. Except that it would be an extraordinary piece of media – among, perhaps, the most extraordinary pieces of media ever. The unknown, the uncertain, the unscripted, the explosive, live! And it would be the most extraordinary opportunity and circumstance and finale... for Donald Trump.

In some sense it is quite the better outcome for him than winning on a first ballot and then having to adopt and fall short of all the necessary disciplines of running a national campaign – and of losing it. The entire Trump aesthetic and strategy positions conflict as the opposite of ignominy, the one thing he can’t countenance – or survive. Rather in Cleveland, in effect dominating all media, the “counterpuncher,” as he likes to describe himself, becomes, to a degree he has not ever been, the greatest show on earth. Indeed, the plotline is irresistible. It will be “the establishment” taking it from him. And how better to get out of the mess of actually having to run in a national election, how better to declare a moral victory and how better to emerge as the real winner having been robbed by those total losers. And, of course, given his indefatigability, the way the spotlight gives him energy and his extraordinary ability to say something that once again confounds the fixed math, he could win. Except for the fact that he can’t. Or, if he does, or seems to, that means only that he is left with just what he has: a fraction of electoral support. The Trump base. The Trump movement. The Trump stupids. The rest of the party would have left by the exits. Likewise, if he “loses” he has lost nothing. Where else, to who else, would this base go? Hence, he runs anyway and keeps running. Or he keeps on being Donald Trump, figure of contretemps, outrage and unstoppable celebrity, which obviously was his goal anyway. And now, to boot, he is the spokesperson, the embodiment, of some new American confluence of stupidity and zaniness and vulgarity and violence and charm. He will lose and he will not be elected president, but he will have won some great cultural and commercial point – arguably a far greater prize than the White House. He will have proved his essential thesis. The one thing politicians and the political establishment fear most, the thing they have most angrily fought against, which is that the nation, in its most meaningful desires and ambitions, expresses itself outside of politics: that politics is ineffably small-time, square and fuddy duddy. For losers. Marco Rubio. Ted Cruz. Hillary Clinton. Sheesh. No, the real politics is now somewhere else, scary, mesmerising, and out of control.

MORE FROM GQ

For these related stories, visit GQ.co.uk/magazine

The Guardian’s Loss Leader (Michael Wolff, May 2016) Dotcom’s Great Screen Grab (Michael Wolff, April 2016) Yes, Madam President (Michael Wolff, March 2016) JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 123


T=me keeper.

2 SECONDS TO REMEMBER. As the clock seen on all Swiss railway stations, the Mondaine stop2go Official Swiss Railways Watch runs a little fast for 58 seconds, then stops for 2 seconds at the full minute. Mondaine 58-02 Quartz Movement, Stainless Steel Case, Sapphire Crystal, Water Resistant, individually numbered, Swiss Made – what do 2 seconds mean to you? Unmistakable face. Distinctive hands. Undeniably Swiss. The renowned Official Swiss Railways Clock skilfully reproduced as a watch. Available at selected watch specialists nationwide. For an illustrated catalogue and details of your nearest stockist telephone 0116 234 4656 or email info@bml-watches.com

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From Cartier to Omega – meet the new classics

GOING FOR GOLD Metals old and new with designs on your wrist

FOLLOW THE LINKS Bracelets are back – in a big way

PLUS! ANATOMY OF A WATCH COLLECTION #1


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THE GREAT ESCAPEMENT Welcome to the era of ‘afordable haute horlogerie’ – courtesy of TAG Heuer. 130, 134, 140 & 146

GQ TREND REPORT Our eight-page round-up of the hottest new styles direct from the watch fairs. 133

‘IF YOU WANT IT, HERE IT IS, COME AND GET IT...’ Meet the Beatles watches; and who is driving the new styles in auto-inspired timepieces? 136

GOING FOR GOLD How high goals and fine watchmaking found their match in Polo’s Gold Cup. 142

ANATOMY OF A WATCH COLLECTION PART 1: COMPLICATIONS The components of the finest timepieces explained. By James Gurney 148

‘GOOD EVENING, LADIES AND GENTLEMEN, WATCH PEOPLE’ GQ celebrates Baselworld in style. Editor-in-Chief Dylan Jones

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Robert Johnston unwinds your mechanical misery and clarifies your quartz-driven queries.

THIS IS THE BEST YEAR EVER TO INVEST IN A SPORTS WATCH From Cartier to Omega – meet the new classics

GOING FOR GOLD

Cover: Photograph by Ted Humble-Smith. Cartier Drive watch by Cartier, £4,550. cartier. co.uk. Black Panama Lockable Box by Smythson, £795. smythson.com

Editor Bill Prince Design and Creative Director Paul Solomons

Metals old and new with designs on your wrist

FOLLOW THE LINKS Bracelets are back – in a big way

Fashion Director Robert Johnston Picture Editor Cai Lunn Fashion Assistant Carlotta Constant Design Assistant Anna Gordon Contributing Photographers Matthew Beedle Ted Humble-Smith

PLUS! ANATOMY OF A WATCH COLLECTION #1

JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 127


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GREAT ESCAPEMENT TAG Heuer innovates again with an in-house tourbillon for £12,100

For a brand that has built its business, as well as much of its creative DNA, on ultra-accurate chronographs, the introduction in 2012 of the TAG Heuer MikrotourbillonS, with two in-house tourbillons regulating independently powered chronometer and chronograph functions, was an eyebrow-raiser: the Carrera Heuer-02T Black Phantom company that made the first stopwatches capable of timing acculimited edition by rately to a hundredth of a second was entering the world of high TAG Heuer, £16,150. tagheuer.co.uk complications, previously the redoubt of “haute horlogerie” brands such as the tourbillon’s inventor, Breguet. It was a decision many took to be a volte-face, but TAG Heuer CEO and president of [the tourbillon] was so low – maybe 100 – that we could not charge less than 100-150,000 Swiss francs. Today, we LVMH’s watch division Jean-Claude Biver disagrees: “Whoever does a chronograph should never neglect the chronometer, because if your watch is not accurate, what’s are able to sell it for 15,000 Swiss francs. the point? And the best way to have the smallest variation is through a tourbillon. So “[But] only brands that produce a tourbillon in-house we do a tourbillon and there’s nothing wrong with that. It’s a chronograph regulated are able to transfer that productivity to the end conby a tourbillon chronometer, to be more accurate.” sumer. So we have done it because we can afford to do Traditionally, tourbillons have occupied the highest echelon of a brand’s watch it. We don’t sacrifice any margins.” offer and command prices to reflect that. But last year Raymond Weil sold the Making the Carrera Heuer-02T is a game-changNabucco Cello Tourbillon at a comparatively trifling £27,500. Admittedly, er, possibly the world’s first example of affordthe tourbillon itself had been produced with the help of an outside able haute horlogerie. “People may think company and the piece was limited to just ten pieces (which sold out we do it to destroy the market, but no,” immediately). But now TAG Heuer has turned the heat up by unveilsays Biver. “First, our name is TAG Short for: ing its new COSC-certified, titanium-cased Carrera Heuer-02T at a Heuer. How can we destroy Blancpain, Contrôle Officiel Suisse des truly remarkable £12,100 (or £16,150 for the Black Phantom limPatek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin Chronomètres. This is a mark or Breguet? If Renault makes a V12 ited-edition version). And, unlike the Nabucco, this is a genuinely identifying a watch that industrialised piece that risks upending many suppositions surand sells it at ¤80,000, and a Ferrari is assembled in Switzerland with components rounding this end of the watch market. costs ¤300,000, will Renault destroy of 100 per cent “We could charge more money,” says Biver, “but thanks to technolFerrari? Of course not. So even if we Swiss origin. ogy we can produce tourbillons at a different price than 20 or 30 years do a tourbillon at ¤15,000, we do not ago. Thirty years ago, the number of watchmakers capable of mastering destroy the likes of Breguet.” BP

COSC

The most popular watches on Instagram

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Italia Independent x Hublot @watchanish

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5327 by Patek Philippe @hodinkee

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Heritage Black Bay Dark Hands-On by Tudor @ablogtowatch

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Globemaster Annual Calendar by Omega @watchesbysjx

Photograph Nicholas Kay

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LIVE FULL THROTTLE Cut loose, be bold and let the good times roll. This new Maverick features an automatic movement, a black sandwich dial and an interchangeable walnut brown vintage leather strap.

EXPLORE TWSTEELUK.COM


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HyperChrome Automatic Chronograph Match Point Limited Edition by Rado, £3,650. rado.com

Masterpiece Gravity by Maurice Lacroix, £7,690. mauricelacroix.com

Big Bang Unico Black Magic by Hublot, £15,000. harrods.com

L.U.C. XPS Fairmined by Chopard, £12,200. chopard.com

NEW MATERIALS

From cutting-edge composites to ethically sourced gold, it’s time for innovation 130 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016


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1940 3 Days Automatic Acciaio by Panerai Radiomir, £7,400. panerai.com

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Maestro by Raymond Weil, £775. raymond-weil.com

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New Retro by De Grisogono, £20,900. degrisogono.com

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Heritage Chronométrie Twincounter Date Steel by Montblanc, £2,155. montblanc.com

SIMPLE

Go back to basics and enjoy the bare necessities of timekeeping JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 131


christopherward.co.uk


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JOHN LENNON’S 40th birthday present:

Patek Philippe 2499

HAS THE WATCH INDUSTRY ANTICIPATED THE ARRIVAL OF DRIVERLESS CARS? There’s much to look at in two new auto-inspired wristwatches

‘If you want it, here it is, come and get it…’ Not one but two new Beatlesinspired watches announced The one thing everyone knows about the Beatles and watches is that Paul McCartney (above) took to wearing two timepieces during the band’s 1964 Australian tour (one was set to London time, the better to stay in touch with his then-girlfriend, Jane Asher). Well, now there’s two more things to know:

Raymond Weil has just joined forces with The Beatles to create its latest musical tribute (previous pieces celebrated Miles Davis, Frank Sinatra and Bob Dylan). Limited to 3,000, the commemorative watch is based on the successful Maestro and retails for £975. raymond-weil.com

Meister Hand-winding by Junghans, £3,503. junghans.de

Cartier Driver by Cartier, £4,550. cartier.co.uk

The relationship between cars and watches has been explored ad nauseam – not least within the pages of GQ – but this year’s SIHH show in Geneva heralded a change of tack when it comes to incorporating timing functions useful to the motorist – chief among them a chronograph (to measure elapsed time), with which it is possible to derive speed using a tachymeter scale. Well, guess what, the new Drive De Cartier, as covetable and driver-friendly as it is, includes neither of these tropes; instead it’s an elegant, cushion-cased “dress piece” perfect for the driver with, well, time on his hands.

Available in pink gold or steel, with black, grey or white guilloché (ie, decoratively engraved) dials, the Drive De Cartier is fitted with the maison’s in-house 1904 MC movement. It’s a theme coincidentally picked up by two new pieces from independent watch brand Junghans, which has used that vehicular behemoth, the 1932 Maybach DS8 Zeppelin, as the inspiration for its own Meister Hand-winding. Two versions are available, each taking cues from the mighty Maybach, including elegantly resolved arabics, padded leather straps and polished lacquer dials. Both versions are powered by a hand-wound ETA movement. BP

Danish fancy Over the past few years detective novels and TV shows have been spectacularly Scandified, thanks to the likes of Jo Nesbø and The Bridge. Now it’s the turn of timepieces. Copenhagen has long been a global design capital and big names such as Georg Jensen and Arne Jacobsen have already been linked with watches. The latest name to emerge from the Danish capital is Manniche. This is the brainchild of David Manniche, who has long been involved in the fashion and jewellery businesses. But now he has turned his love of watches into his very first timepiece, the CPH ST-1 (named after his home city). With a Swiss automatic movement and a classic Danish approach to minimalism, it comes in black- or white-dialled versions. Of course, we tend towards the noir.

Photographs Getty Images, Nicholas Kay

CPH ST-1 by Manniche, £1,099. manniche.com

Don’t miss! The GQ watch guide 2016 on GQ.co.uk Bamford Watch Department, the horological “skunkworks” set up by George Bamford to customise existing timepieces has announced two Yellow Submarine-themed Rolex Datejusts, ofering a suitably wiggy date wheel and the titular submersible attached to the tip of the seconds hand. Housed in the Datejust’s iconic case treated with Bamford’s own Military Grade Titanium Coating, prices are on request. bamfordwatchdepartment.com

From Alpina to Zenith, the greatest names and latest trends – online

The swiss watch is holding its own in a turbulent world

The Best Watches of Baselworld 2016

JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 133


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G TREND REPORT 3 Clockwise from top left: Falken by Triwa, £149. triwa.com

G-Shock original DW-5600 by Casio, £100. casio.com Expedition by Timex, £59.99. timex.co.uk Ocean Avenger by Rotary, £149. rotarywatches.com

UNDER £150

Here’s a selection of handsome timepieces that won’t break the bank 134 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016

Evo by Mondaine, £149. mondaine.com Canterbury by Daniel Wellington, £149. danielwellington.com/uk Hugo Boss Men’s by Hugo Boss, £139. watchshop.com Falmouth by Shore Projects, £125. shoreprojects.com Time Teller Acetate by Nixon, £110. nixon.com Eco-Drive by Citizen, £149. citizenwatch.com Chiswick by Henry London, £89.95. henry-london.com


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Clé du Cartier by Cartier, £50,000. cartier.co.uk

Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve by Hublot, £75,300. hublot.co.uk

Heritage Bubble by Corum, £6,300. corum.ch

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Carrera Heuer 01 by TAG Heuer, £4,300. tagheuer.co.uk

The ability to see right through these movements makes them clear favourites JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 135


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SPORT MODE

Now signed up as the lead sponsor of this summer’s top polo tournament, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s cup runneth over

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nature, its commitment to traditions and its management of the grounds,” says Kassim-Lakha. “The commitment to excellence of play [come rain or shine] is truly unsung. This must be why the world’s best players love to train and play at Cowdray.” In addition to May’s invitation-only Trippetts Challenge, Jaeger-LeCoultre supports a number of games that form part of UK governing body the Hurlingham Polo Association’s HPA Series. “These medium-goal matches offer tremendous insight into the passion of a new generation of polo amateurs and afford even deeper links with the club and its members,” explains Kassim-Lahka. And then there’s the Gold Cup itself – the culmination of a sequence of challenges that make up the British Open Polo Championship. “The Gold Cup is in a totally different league,” says Kassim-Lahka. “Argentina is the mecca of polo, but the Gold Cup is much more global.” Which is the reason why, Kassim-Lakha says, Jaeger-LeCoultre has sought to put the players, member and patrons of the club at the centre of what it does at Cowdray. “And to renew the iconic Reverso’s origins 85 years ago, we will reward the winning team with commemorative Reverso watches that underline the heritage and spirit of adventure that both Cowdray and Jaeger-LeCoultre share.” BP This year’s Jaeger-LeCoultre Gold Cup takes place between 21 June and 17 July. cowdraypolo.co.uk/tournaments

From new entrant Bell & Ross to senior player TAG Heuer, the world of F1 hit the refresh button this season, with Richard Mille taking over the sponsorship slot at McLaren vacated by TAG Heuer’s move to Red Bull. Hublot and IWC Schafhausen stay with Ferrari and Mercedes AMG respectively.

Last year, quietly and without the fanfare usually associated with similar changes in the world of elite sport, the baton of lead sponsor of the Gold Cup, considered the highlight of the British polo season, passed from Veuve Clicquot to Jaeger-LeCoultre – the brand responsible for what was arguably the first sports watch (the revolutionary 1931 Reverso) and, since 2006, the tournament’s official timekeeper. “It’s the prize we have chased as a brand for the last 12 years,” says UK market and global strategy director Zahra Kassim-Lakha of the 60-year-old tournament held each summer at Cowdray Park, West Sussex. The reason: while polo has been played at Cowdray since 1910, the sport was truly revived many years later, thanks to the Gold Cup. “In the 1930s, Lord Cowdray and his Australian friend Bob Ashton bet against the odds and brought 26 home-bred ponies from Australia across the seas in an epic journey to play against the best players from England, Australia and India,” says Kassim-Lakha. “It’s an incredible story – and their determination to relaunch polo inspired a whole new generation of players and patrons around the world. After the war, the Ashtons and Lord Cowdray helped the British Polo Association re-establish the game and the first Gold Cup was played in 1956.” In contrast to the glitz and glamour of the Queen’s Cup, held at Guards Polo Club in Windsor Great Park, the polo fields of Cowdray represent a more understated side of the game. “We cherish its low-key

Ringing the changes Official Olympic timekeeper Omega unveils its latest pieces

Olympic Collection Speedmaster Mark II/ Rio 2016, Co-Axial Chronograph, Limited Edition by Omega, £4,100. omegawatches.com

Olympic Collection Speedmaster Bullhead/Rio 2016, Co-Axial Chronograph Limited Edition by Omega, £6,075. omegawatches.com

Photographs NIcholas Kay

Reverso Tribute Calendar Pink Gold by Jaeger-LeCoultre, £18,000. jaeger-lecoultre.com


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PARTNERSHIP

PERFECT TIMING If you are looking for classic looks, mechanical movements, attractive pricing and a genuine sense of history, then Louis Erard watches tick all the right boxes...

Left to right: 1931 Chrono Vintage by Louis Erard, £1,900. 1931 Small Second by Louis Erard, £1,100. watches-of-switzerland.co.uk

While the UK may seem to have access to every watch brand out there, occasionally a few gems have eluded us. Now, finally available in Britain are the timepieces of Louis Erard, known for their understated, classical styling, horological purity and keen pricing. Its eponymous founder started the company in Neuchâtel in 1929, releasing its first timepieces after two years of research and development. Owned by the Erard family until 2003, the brand was purchased by its now-CEO, industry veteran Alain Spinedi, and a small group of friends. This lowvolume maison thus remains a true independent in an era when many brands are held by corporations. Its values stand out in a market where cost often seems to have little bearing on the worth of a timepiece, and when fashion can overrule function. Louis Erard focuses on the production of high-quality, aspirational Wrist wristwatches, but with accessible prices. A benefit of its low volume is the air of exclusivity enjoyed by the wearer. assessment Louis Erard is entering the UK market with five watch 1931 Chrono Vintage One of the stars of the families. With a nod to the year its pieces first went on sale, Louis Erard line-up, the the company has developed a covetable series of models named 1931 Chrono Vintage “1931”, as well as the Excellence and Heritage ranges for men, reference 71 245 AA02 delivers all the values of with the Romance and Emotion collections for women. a classic chronograph, All Louis Erard watches are Swiss-made, predominantly with the contemporary automatic and manual-wind models powered by legendary benefits of an automatic base calibres including Peseux manual wind and Valjoux movement and a generous 42.5mm chronograph movements, as well as by high-grade stainless steel case. movements from ETA and Soprod. And for the wearers? Its handsome, retroA sense of “rightness”, thanks to horological values honed inspired dial is protected by a sapphire crystal. over nearly a century. watches-of-switzerland.co.uk

All Louis Erard watches are Swiss-made Follow on instagram @louiserarduk


Photographs Leslie Mather

Top and left: The 1931 Ultra Thin by Louis Erard, £1,095. Above: The 1931 Calendar Moonphase by Louis Erard, £1,950. goldsmiths.co.uk


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Accutron II by Bulova, £399. watchshop.com INOX by Victorinox, £359. victorinox.com CT60 Chronograph by Tifany & Co, tifany.co.uk

Funky Blue Perpetual Calendar by H Moser, £40,000. williamandson.com Bulgari-Bulgari Solo Tempo by Bulgari, £4,500. bulgari.com

BLUE DIALS

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TREND REPORT 6 From top: Goldrun by Tissot, £3,820. tissotshop.com Royal Oak Chronograph by Audemars Piguet, £41,300. audemarspiguet.com Helvetica by Mondaine, £295. watchshop.com

YELLOW GOLD

Look beyond rose – now another tone is attracting covetous glances

Eco-Drive Dress by Citizen, £149. citizenwatch.com Datejust II by Rolex, £7,750. rolex.com Constellation Globemaster Co-Axial Master Chronometer by Omega, £5,925. omegawatches.com JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 141


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There are as many watch collections as there are collectors, each as individual as the tastes that have amassed them. But certain specifics to creating the perfect portfolio of timepieces do apply: usually, these reflect the most celebrated brands, the most interesting models and the most sought-after functions. It could be a combination of all three in one watch; most likely it will be those pieces that represent the best expression of each. So, rather than tell you which watch to buy (or not buy) with an eye on the future health of your horological horde, we asked expert James Gurney to explain the key components of the perfect collection: starting with the moment a simple, two-handed chronometer becomes anything but... It’s rare enough, in the watch world, to have come up with the perfect, simple timepiece. The temptation, both for maker and client, is to search for a little extra, to add something, to enrich. And such “complications” can be a very good thing, as while no one quite needs a watch that can tell you whether it’s daytime in Vanuatu or show a calendar that will account for leap days, these embellishments add something appreciable to the quotidian, a truth recognised since the first watchmaker’s, “And this example, Sir, has a seconds hand!” More is not always more, but the right watch complications add interest, fascination and even 142 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016

utility – not having to think what time it is at home is a simple, but genuine, boon if you’re on your travels and switching time zone every day. But why should you bother? The answer lies in what a complication does both in its function and indirectly, in terms of design, value or pure interest. Complications are basically extensions of the business of telling the time. They can be for recording amounts of time (chronographs), telling time over larger scales (calendar watches) or simply telling time in a different way (chiming watches), but it isn’t really the what that matters, it’s the how and why. Complications point directly to what fascinates about watches, whether that’s design or clever watchmaking. Take the Slim d’Hermès QP, which has a calendar function grafted onto the basic hours and minutes. You may never gain anything from the watch’s ability to keep track of the date through a full leap-year cycle, and you’ll gain only marginally more from the QP model as a token of wealth over the simpler version. Instead you have a much richer application of graphic designer Philippe Apeloig’s specially developed typography, which is the point of the whole collection. More kinetically, flyback chronographs (such as Zenith’s El Primero) or tourbillons such as Louis Vuitton’s new Flying Tourbillon Poinçon De Genève add dynamic movement to a watch. Throwing on more complications is not necessarily the answer, though. Vacheron Constantin’s recent 57260, the most complicated watch ever made, is only of real interest to serious aficionados and even they’re only mildly diverted to know that it has both Hebraic and ISO week calendars (amid some 260 functions), being more concerned to understand how the designers coped with such a riot of indications without the whole thing seizing up or looking a mess.

THE TOP FIVE COMPLICATIONS EVERY MAN SHOULD OWN 1. Breguet Classique 7637 Minute Repeater Minute repeaters and sonnerie watches add the dimension of sound as they ring the hours, quarters and minutes (either on demand or in passing). Fabulously complex in the making, these watches require rare expertise to produce and command prices to match. Achieving the perfect tone is as much art as science and the best come from one particular valley in Switzerland, a cluster of expertise that includes Breguet, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Bulgari and Blancpain.

2. Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre Sphérotourbillon The main point of the tourbillon is that they move. Theoretically, having the whole balance assembly rotating around its centre point equalises any error that gravity might cause in a static balance, but the real attraction is in the visible, moving addition of extra watchmaking time, effort and value. Have everything moving on two axes as with JaegerLeCoultre’s Sphérotourbillon in a cage that tilts in deferation to the angle of the Earth and the effect is neatly multiplied.

3. Patek Philippe 5205G Annual Calendar Patek Philippe makes all the varieties of complicated watches you could imagine, but its strongest suit is in “small complications”, those watches that have something extra without going overboard. Annual calendars are a house speciality, as in the 5205G, which balances date windows on the upper half with a moonphase and 24-hour dial below.


3 5205G Annual Calendar by Patek Philippe, £31,550. patek.com

1 Classique 7637 Minute Repeater by Breguet, £169,300. breguet.com

Duomètre Sphérotourbillon Pink Gold by Jaeger-LeCoultre, £180,000. jaeger-lecoultre.com

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4 A Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds A Lange & Söhne is all about pure watchmaking, but, as this watch shows, that doesn’t mean everything has to be on show. While the movement is as complicated as you might wish for, the dial has a simple “regulator” layout that gives prominence to the seconds hand, which, unusually for a mechanical watch, jumps in one-second intervals. Otherwise known as “deadbeat seconds”, the mechanism has a constant force accumulator designed to enhance the watch’s timekeeping performance. There’s also a neat power reserve, the little triangle between the hour and minute dials that turns red when the watch has less than ten hours of running time left. Richard Lange Jumping Seconds Watch by A Lange & Söhne. alange-soehne.com

‘Complications point directly to what fascinates about watches, whether that’s design or clever watchmaking’ 144 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016


5

Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight Planetarium This is almost the perfect complication: it shows both time in terms of hours and minutes and time in terms of the orbit of the planets around the sun. Obviously enough, that isn’t the point. The worth is in the interests and obsessions that the watch reflects in its distillation of Van Cleef & Arpels’ prowess in watch design. The idea for the watch comes from a fascination with early scientific instruments and the 18th-century taste for cabinets of curiosities. Midnight Planetarium by Van Cleef & Arpels, £153,400. vancleefarpels.com

SPACE CRAFT Predating all known clockwork gearing by almost two millennia, the world’s earliest astronomical computer, the Antikythera Mechanism, dating back to the first century BC, was discovered by Greek sponge divers in 1900. It would take another century for its importance to be recognised, with 2012’s Hublot Return To Antikythera concept timepiece.

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COLLECTIONS

VINTAGE PILOT

Spread your wings with retro-inspired pieces designed for fly boys

24-hours by Longines, £2,750. longines.com

Pilot Watch by Zenith, £5,200. zenith-watch.com

Transocean Chronograph 1915 by Breitling, £6,790. breitling.com

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Calatrava Pilot Travel Time by Patek Philippe, £31,320. patek.com

G TREND REPORT 7 Khaki Chrono Worldtimer by Hamilton, £995. hamiltonwatch.com

146 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016


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JEWELLERY

Time to get back on the chain gang, plus our pick of some venerable beads From left: Le Chaines necklace by Chopard, £14,270. chopard.com Interlocked G bracelet by Gucci, £315. gucci.com Rebel at Heart necklace by Thomas Sabo, £179. thomassabo.com Bzeroi necklace by Bulgari, £2,000. bulgari.com Necklace by Topman, £10. topman.com Necklace from the Hero and Warrior Series by Shamballa Jewels, £58,385. shamballajewels.com Oxidized snake bracelet by Tateossian, £235. tateossian.com Santos de Cartier bracelet by Cartier, £2,270. cartier.co.uk Etid matte black bracelet by Vitality, £70. harveynichols.com Chain bracelet by Tifany, £4,650. tifany.co.uk Sterling-silver Albert chain bracelet by James Tanner, £695. mrporter.com

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Ted Humble-Smith

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‘GOOD EVENING, LADIES AND GENTLEMEN, WATCH PEOPLE…’ The industry gathered in force for our fourth annual GQ party at Baselworld to celebrate the achievements of one of its own

‘Karl-Friedrich is a gentleman who personifies the qualities of a luxury watch’

Fun of the fair: Varun Godinho, Almona Bhatia, Kapil Kapoor and André Pollman at the GQ event 148 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016

Aisle be there: GQ’s Baselworld cocktail event at Elisabethenkirche, 16 March 2016

High praise: Nicholas Coleridge celebrates the contribution of Karl-Friedrich Scheufele

Hour of glory: Karl-Friedrich Scheufele accepting the GQ Lifetime Achievement Award

WINNER GQ Lifetime Achievement Award Karl-Friedrich Scheufele Co-CEO, Chopard Scheufele was born in Germany and grew up in the city of Pforzheim. When he was five his family took over the Genevabased watch manufacturer founded by Louis-Ulysse Chopard in 1860. Having studied at Geneva’s International School and at business college in Lausanne, he joined the family company during a period of explosive expansion and creativity and gradually rose to his present eminence, in charge of all manufacture, directing the men’s watch division and overseeing all business aspects of the company. Together with his sister Caroline, he also oversees marketing, advertising and communication.

Photographs Dominik Pluess

During a cocktail evening hosted by global representatives of GQ at the Baselworld watch fair in March, the president of Condé Nast International, Nicholas Coleridge, inducted the latest figure into what is fast becoming the magazine’s own Watchmaking Hall of Fame. Joining the illustrious company of Jack Heuer, Thierry Stern and Jean-Claude Biver, this year’s Condé Nast GQ Lifetime Achievement Award was bestowed upon a similarly senior, admired and accomplished figure in the watch industry: the co-president (with his sister Caroline) of Chopard, KarlFriedrich Scheufele, in Nicholas Coleridge’s words is “a gentleman who personifies many of the qualities of a luxury watch – discreet, reliable, with a good classic face and an understated sophistication.” “Those of us who follow the fortunes of watch companies,” continued Coleridge, “know that Chopard occupies a privileged place – one of a handful of authentic heritage brands. But its recent and present history is every bit as

interesting: Happy Diamonds, Happy Sport, Happy Spirit... three legendary collections and lines; Chopard’s ground-breaking in-house watch movement; the collaborations with the Mille Miglia, with the Cannes Film Festival, with Sir Elton John, with the Monaco Grand Prix, the Grand Prix Sailing Regatta... Chopard is quite simply the epicentre of everything that’s cultural, beautiful, elegant and exciting. “It comes as no surprise to learn that as well as luxury watches, Mr Scheufele is a connoisseur of wine, of classic cars, of racing cars... His life could have been devised by Central Casting. There was surely never a worthier winner of the GQ Lifetime Achievement Award than Mr Karl-Friedrich Scheufele.” “It’s true that I have a certain passion for watchmaking,” said Scheufele in response to his award. “It’s certainly true that I have a passion for antique cars and I consider myself extremely lucky that I can combine all these beautiful things in my lifetime. “[But] the lifetime achievement idea is a little bit disturbing to me because it reminds me of my age... but in any case, rest assured that I am extremely proud, extremely happy. Thank you, GQ, thank you, Condé Nast, and thank you very much, ladies and gentlemen.” BP


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If I want to buy a new watch, should I always choose one of the latest models? Neil James, via email My father bought my mother a Longines as a wedding present and when I had it serviced for her recently it turned out that the model dated back to the Thirties – several decades before they were married. In other words, it had been sitting in the jewellers for years. Now, while this is unlikely to happen these days, you should always ask the retailer how old a watch is as new models are coming out all the time. It is also a good test to see if the person behind the counter knows their stuf. That is not to say that you aren’t perfectly welcome to purchase any new watch you might want but if looking at an older model you might wish to explore the pre-owned option – or a discount. Ingenieur Chronograph Edition W 125 by IWC Schaffhausen, £5,750. iwc.com

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Why are some watches referred to as chronometers? I can’t see that they do anything diferent to any other watch. Tom, via email The term chronometer (which simply means time measurer in Latin) can only be used if the movement has been tested and certified by an independent authority. Although there are a number of these bodies around the world, in practical terms this normally means the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres or COSC). The institute tests the movements

submitted to it for their accuracy over a period of 15 days: the first ten at room temperature and the last five at a range of diferent temperatures. The timekeeping deviations must lie within pre-defined tolerances, usually of -4/+6 seconds per day, or a precision of 99.99 per cent, the most accurate a mechanical movement can be. If this is the case, a Swiss Official Chronometer certificate will be issued for the movement and is a mark of quality. The term chronometer was coined by Yorkshire clockmaker Jeremy Thacker in the early 18th century in his unsuccessful quest to build a clock accurate enough for marine navigation – the problem being how to negate the efects of the ship’s motion. This was vital for marine safety and exploration and so of vital concern to the British as the pre-eminent naval power of the age. Self-educated carpenter John Harrison took up the challenge and one of his chronometer designs was used by Captain Cook. Harrison made himself the equivalent of a multi-millionaire through his eforts – and helped the British Empire to dominate the world’s oceans for the next century.

What is the function of the helium escape valve found on certain diving watches? Paul Daly, via email This small valve on the side of the case is usually found on diving watches that are water-resistant to depths greater than 300m. Professional deepsea divers often spend several days underwater, operating from diving bells. The air in these will be a mix of oxygen and helium (known as heliox), as this is easier to breathe than normal air. Helium atoms are the smallest natural gas particles and can penetrate the watch despite its seals. At depths this is not a problem, but when you surface, the difference in pressures could push out the watch’s crystal. To combat this, the helium escape valve automatically allows the gas to escape safely while keeping the watch waterproof. It is activated when the differential between the inner and the outside pressure reaches a certain level. The automatic valve was jointly developed in the Sixties by Rolex and diving-watch specialist Doxa. Today this valve can be found on models such as the Rolex Sea Dweller and Omega’s Seamaster series, as well as watches by Breitling, Panerai and Oris. Today’s record-breaking big beast of a diving watch is made by Swiss Military Watches and is water resistant to depths of 6,000m – and is COSC-certified. The 10mm thick sapphire crystal can resist pressure of 750kg per square centimetre. Sea-Dweller, by Rolex, £6,900. rolex.com

©2016 The Condé Nast Publications Ltd. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. Not to be sold separately from the June 2016 issue of GQ magazine. Printed by Wyndeham Group. Colour origination by Tag: Response.

150 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016


raymond-weil.com

tel: 01428 656 822


Photograph Contour by Getty Images

Drive time: Chris Evans at home in Ascot with his Ferrari 250 GT California Spider

152 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016


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Chris Evans After TFI Friday, only one show could tempt him back to our screens, but it’s been a very bumpy road so far. The new face of Top Gear and one of Britain’s most influential broadcasters explains how the Clarkson ‘fracas’ led to an ofer he couldn’t refuse – and why rumours of rifts and discontent surrounding the new series will never steer him of course Chris Evans has been a well-known UK broadcaster for years. But his profile is about to get a whole lot bigger, not just in Britain, but around the world. For Evans, whatever the success he has enjoyed, or the scale of the challenges he has taken on before, is now the co-star of one of the biggest phenomena in global TV, Top Gear. Jeremy Clarkson’s demise, following an assault on a member of the production team, became Evans’ good fortune in that it created the opening to what he says is the only other TV show he would have taken on. It is a massive gig, and Clarkson, love him or hate him, left behind big shoes for Evans to fill. If the ginger-haired 50-year-old is worried about it, he did not show it for one second when we sat down in his huge home in Ascot, racks of

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expensive wines behind me and a garage rammed with old cars ahead of me through the kitchen, one of them worth almost £7 million. Evans loved cars long before the Top Gear gig came along in the wake of Clarkson’s final meltdown. Even before his first series has begun, it has attracted controversy and coverage galore, including stories that he behaves like a dictator, can’t drive and talk at the same time, gets car sick, threatened to quit, doesn’t get on with co-presenter Matt LeBlanc, and, on the more accurate side of the ledger, Evans’ apology for a stunt near the Cenotaph in Whitehall. He knows it will be a fast ride ahead, but seems determined to enjoy it and not to worry about what people say about it. Or, indeed, worry about anything.

NEALE HAYNES

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AC: Are you scared? CE: No. Top Gear is not the kind of

programme that elicits nerves because it is almost all in the can before it goes out. So the only thing you might be scared of is how it is perceived afterwards. AC: So is the first series done? CE: No, but there is loads already wrapped. I was talking to Jeremy Irons. He has got this play coming up in Bristol, three hours of him talking on stage, and he is crapping himself. Live performance is so different. Top Gear is more like a movie; you make mini movies. AC: But you have to present too? CE: If you run the clock on it, it’s not that much. The odd interview, links, a line here or there. AC: Are you worried about the reaction? CE: I don’t worry about anything. I am focused, I do a lot of research, I watched back all the old shows – I’d seen most of them anyway – and I have put lots of thought into things, but I’m not worrying. AC: How far have you travelled for the first series? CE: The furthest so far is South Africa and the west coast of America; we’re in Venice tomorrow and we’re off to Kazakhstan next week. We’re going to the rocket launch place, the [Baikonur] cosmodrome. We’re driving three 4x4s, each with supplies for Tim Peake, and the one who gets there first gets to put their stuff on a rocket and it goes up into space to Tim. AC: Top Gear made Jeremy Clarkson global. How global are you? CE: Not at all. I’m not really known outside Great Britain. Top Gear is the longest-running, biggest TV show in the world – more than 30 years, 350 million viewers, so it’s big. Matt LeBlanc is global. Everywhere we’ve been he is recognised. That is very useful. AC: What about the story that you and he don’t get on? CE: No idea where that came from. Not true. AC: Are you a conspiracy theorist? CE: I like conspiracy theorists more than conspiracy theories. AC: A lot of these anti-new-Top Gear stories have started in the Sun and the Times, and Jeremy Clarkson writes in the Sunday Times. So is there a Murdoch press anti-Top Gear, antiyou agenda? CE: Makes sense. You don’t have to be Hercule Poirot to figure that one out. AC: Do you buy the idea Clarkson is behind that? CE: No, not at all. AC: Do you two get on? 154 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016

Gear change (above, from left): Rory Reid, Evans, Matt LeBlanc, Sabine Schmitz and Chris Harris; (left) Jeremy Clarkson’s exit made headlines in March 2015

CE: We used to get on. I don’t know if we still get on because I haven’t seen him in ages. But he is one of my heroes. He’s entertaining. He was great on Top Gear and I love his writing. AC: He’s not just a bit of a bigot? CE: Well I agree, there is that, but I just take the things I like. He is funny. He deconstructs things really well. They say if you can explain complicated things to a six-year-old you know what you’re talking about, and I am like his six-year-old. AC: But hero is a big word. CE: Well, he is one of mine. AC: Who else is a hero? CE: Parky, Wogan, [David] Bailey – I love the way he lives his life – Hockney, he’s a hero. AC: No women? CE: My Mum trumps them all. AC: You’ve always struck me as an innovator, but with Top Gear you’re going to be judged by comparison with what went before. Is that not a worry? CE: I’m already being judged like that, but to be honest that will go when we show the programmes and the relief will come because that will be the end of that phase, not the beginning. AC: How good is the first one? CE: Don’t know. It’s not finished yet. But it is difficult to make a bad Top Gear because of the resources we’ve got. Also, the thing about the show is that cars are the raw material. It is not like a sitcom or a drama,

where you have to keep creating. The cars bring their own story. AC: But we have had cars for ages. What makes Top Gear so special? CE: What makes Top Gear so special came from when [executive producer Andy] Wilman and Clarkson were rocking and rolling it ten years ago, like they were The Rolling Stones or Led Zeppelin. AC: So if Clarkson was Jagger and Wilman was Richards, which Stone is the car? CE: The cars are the songs. Like you say, they’ve been around forever. We all remember our first house, first girlfriend, first car. Cars are a diary of our lives. You can live your life through cars even if you are not a fan of cars. Weddings, rows, finances, going broke, making or losing money, aspirations and judgements. Cars are a constant in there somewhere. I have always loved cars, ever since I was a little kid. AC: When did you last speak to Clarkson? CE: Months and months ago. AC: So he’s not been giving you tips? CE: He gave me one. I said to him, “Any tips?” And he said, “Don’t refer to cars as ‘she’.” I often call cars “she.” I sex cars.

Do you feel Clarkson deserved to go when he went? AC:

CE: What is more fascinating is that he went

for what he went for, considering what had gone on before. If you look at the chronology of controversy of Top Gear over the last five or six years, it is bizarre that he went for losing his rag over his dinner when there had been international incidents before that...


ALASTAIR CAMPBELL

Photographs BBC; Ron Zaras

AC: The Falklands. CE: And many more. AC: So which one should he have copped

it for? CE: I’m not sure he should have copped it or not copped it for any of them, but it was a late-night dinner order that saw his end. That was bizarre. AC: What makes you really angry? CE: Not much. AC: When was the last time you lost your rag? CE: I can’t remember. AC: So the Top Gear team can be confident you won’t punch them in the face if your dinner is cold? CE: I am not a fighter anyway. I can’t remember the last time I hit anyone. AC: Do you think Clarkson was getting past his sell-by date? CE: No, in fact his last three shows were among the best he ever did. AC: Do you ever worry about dealing with all the BBC politics? CE: No. I go in with my eyes open. It is the BBC. I know the parameters. I know how you can and can’t operate. I know Top Gear is a hugely controversial programme that has often tested the BBC... AC: Is that part of its job? CE: No, it is a consequence of things that have happened. It is a real hot potato. It is a programme that tests the BBC and the BBC is a corporation that tests Top Gear. I think they are either very good for each other or ultimately destructive towards each other. And because Top Gear is a commercial animal there is that whole dichotomy of public service... A controversial programme, a high-profile organisation and it makes money for a corporation funded by the licence payer. AC: Why did you apologise for the Cenotaph stunt? CE: Because the images on the front pages of the Telegraph and the Sun were, on face value, very disrespectful. AC: But surely part of Top Gear’s appeal is to be disrespectful and edgy? CE: When you think about Top Gear’s PR, profile and character, that is one thing, but when you see an image of the Cenotaph being disrespected, or seeming to be disrespected, the gut feeling I got was that it doesn’t matter who’s right or wrong. It looks wrong and it will offend and upset people we should not be offending and upsetting. AC: But isn’t part of the purpose of Top Gear to offend and upset? CE: That is not why I watched it. I watched it because I liked it. Edgy is brilliant, but for me offending or upsetting is not an appealing trait.

AC: Define edgy. CE: Some of the most edgy TV I’ve

ever seen was Keith Floyd. One camera, prerecorded, but he was so in the moment you don’t know what he would say next. You couldn’t take your eyes off him. AC: What else is edgy out there? CE: Today, not much to be honest. AC: What is the edgiest stuff you’ve done? CE: TFI Friday probably. There is edgy and original... AC: Clarkson was both, yes? CE: Very much so. Edgy, outspoken, controversial, non-caring... AC: You are a caring person, yes? CE: I like to think so. AC: Would you have been happy to cause the Falklands row with Argentina? CE: [Laughs.] No, not at all. AC: What is your role on Top Gear? Are you in charge of it? CE: No. Matt and I are co-hosts. AC: Is there a host hierarchy? CE: It is Matt and me, then everyone else. AC: You have a woman, Sabine Schmitz, and a black guy, Rory Reid, in the team. Was that being PC? CE: Some people want to infer that, but no. I hired the people I thought we needed. My job is to present and when they signed me up they said do what you want with it. AC: One of the stories was that [former executive director] Lisa Clark quit, saying you were a dictator. True? CE: That she said it or that I am a dictator? AC: Both. CE: I prefer to think I am not but it is a far better story that I am – and that I hired and fired her. But I don’t hire and fire. AC: Why do you think there have been so many generally negative stories recently? CE: [Laughs.] Generally? AC: Who is willing you to fail? CE: It’s just that it’s easier to write negatively than positively for most people. It’s fine. It’s just the way it is. AC: Does it bother you? CE: No. AC: Will you read the reviews? CE: Probably.

AC: Will you care if they’re all shit? CE: I don’t think they will be. AC: Car sickness, true or false? CE: Going around Laguna Seca, 20 laps,

massive G-force, Topgun pilot also sick doing the same thing, true. Generally? No. AC: What have you learned from all your ups and downs with the press? CE: That they’re not important. When they write something true, that could be important, but mostly it’s not true. I know lots of people get wound up about it; you know people like that, but you also know there’s no point. It’s like Henry Winkler said, “By the time I realised my father was right I had a son who thought I was wrong.” AC: Who said that? CE: Henry Winkler – the Fonz. There is no point arguing with the press. It’s like engaging with a drunk person – pointless. They just go, “Waaaagh.” AC: How do you see yourself now? Broadcaster? Businessman? CE: Definitely not a businessman for sure. I did one great deal and everything else has been terrible. I lost a fortune on the stock market. I left a load of shares behind; they were £3.76 one day and less than 2p when I cashed them in. They say the best way to make a small fortune is to start with a big one. I’ve done that. AC: Looks like you’re doing well to me. CE: We are very fortunate.

Do you care about money? AC:

CE: I care enough to want to have it because we used not to have it. AC: So what was your background? CE: Working-class family, Warrington, got some O-levels, worked in a newsagent’s as a paper boy, went on to manage a newsagent’s shop, then got into radio and carried on from there. AC: Did you always think you’d be successful? CE: I couldn’t see why I wouldn’t be Holy smoke: and I couldn’t really understand why Matt LeBlanc rallying outside some people were and some weren’t. St Paul’s AC: Did you always think it would Cathedral, en be in broadcasting? route to the Cenotaph CE: I always liked radio and TV. AC: Which medium would you choose if you could only have one? CE: Radio every time. Two reasons. One is because you can decide to do something and if you’re any good it can happen; in TV there will be ten people in the chain and JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 155


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mate Frank Dobson. Remember, I backed Ken Livingstone when he was going for mayor and gave him some money and someone asked Dobson what he thought and he said, “You know what they say about gingers...” End of his career! AC: So you killed Dobbo? CE: He did it to himself.

Did I read you want to start a Top Gear theme park?

AC:

CE: Well, a mate runs Disney and he said he would kill to buy Top Gear and would put 500 people on it, because it is an amazing brand – and it is. If I read Mark Twain I want to find his house in Connecticut. If I watch Chitty Chitty Bang Bang I want to go to Russell’s Water and see where it was filmed. People want to develop their experience of the things they like. I go to Bordeaux for the wine, same thing. AC: Where does the whole wine thing come from? CE: I don’t know. I like wine. AC: How is your relationship with drink? Has it been troubled? CE: I imagine so. AC: When was it most troubled? CE: In the Nineties. AC: How much do you drink now? CE: Last night, two brandies and a Guinness, two brandies the night before, one brandy the night before that and the night before that half a bottle of red wine and my wife had the other half. AC: Do you think you might have a problem with drink? CE: I don’t worry about it. I like drinking. I enjoy it. I don’t know. AC: Drugs? CE: No. The odd spliff when I was young. AC: Have you ever not drank? CE: Yes, 100 days. I wrote a book about it, Call The Midlife – you’re in it as it happens. AC: How hard did you find days without a drink? CE: Not hard at all. Surprisingly easy and unrevealing. AC: Why did I never hear of being in your book? CE: I don’t know. Not long out. AC: I’ll get it. But if it says, “Brilliant read – Daily Mail” on the front, I won’t. CE: Don’t worry. Nobody said, “Brilliant read.”

Photographs Vantagenews.com

if any of them mess up it doesn’t DB5. Peter Sellers bought it and gave it to happen. TV takes forever; that is why most Princess Margaret. She had it for 20 years. of mine has been live. The other thing about AC: How much is it worth? radio is that it’s a one-on-one medium, CE: Quite a few quid. Not telling. because usually we don’t listen en masse. AC: What else do you get your rocks off AC: Do you love being on TV? on apart from cars? CE: No. CE: Wine, food, books. AC: Radio? AC: What are you reading? CE: Yeah. CE: How Bad Do You Want It? It’s about AC: So why do you want to be on TV? running, because I’m doing the marathon. CE: I want to do Top Gear. I think it is the AC: What time are you going for? only programme I would have done apart CE: I’m aiming for less than last time, which from TFI Friday. Maybe the only other thing was four hours, 53 minutes. would have been a big show in America. AC: That is exactly an hour slower than AC: So you could succeed where Piers I did when I was your age. Morgan failed? CE: I don’t care about your time. I care CE: I prefer to see it as succeeding where about mine... Bastard. James Corden has succeeded. AC: Are you political? AC: Have you mellowed at all? CE: I am interested in politics, but I am not CE: Loads. It is about remembering to allied to a party any more. I used to be allied breathe more; taking a pause before to the Labour Party, as you know. AC: Why no more? biting on something or not biting at all. I’m definitely more considered, Mystery and I enjoy myself more. Mellowing machine: Evans poses with the means everything becomes more last old-school sustainable; you get rid of a load of Top Gear face, crap, carve more time for yourself. The Stig, in People say to me now, “You must be Cannes, 2015 so busy.” This is among the least busy periods I’ve ever had. I have such a regimen. I do the radio, I do Top Gear, I come home. That’s it. Since this year my PA just says no to everything else. AC: How much planning do you do for the radio shows? CE: None at all. It’s like going to the studio and starting to paint. What you think outside won’t be as good as what happens when you get there. AC: So how do you fit in trips to places like Kazakhstan? CE: That can be a struggle. I get holiday from radio though, so I’ve been using my holidays. But all I am doing is the radio show, Top Gear, and the Mail On Sunday column. CE: I think politics has become so AC: You do a column for the Mail On Sunday? You work for evil? homogenous and the lines are so blurred. CE: You’re saying the Event mag is evil? AC: Cameron and Corbyn are miles apart. AC: It is owned by evil. It helps fund evil. CE: Maybe, but the disorganisation and CE: OK, well in that case let’s leave the the lack of serious communication, the planet because there is evil everywhere. unimportance of it all, it is so disappointing. The world is entirely fractious at the moment. AC: But we can try and avoid it. Every There are more variables, everything is on a time anyone clicks on Mail Online they knife edge, the speed a nation can come up help evil. against another, there are a lot of potentially CE: [Laughs.] I don’t click on Mail Online; loose cannons who can orchestrate a I write a weekly car review and press send. following in an instant. It’s worrying. AC: Are there enough new cars to do one every week? AC: Do you care about the Europe debate? CE: Last year there were 370 new cars. CE: I do. I have an opinion but I am not allowed to say because of the [radio] show. AC: How many cars do you own? CE: About 20. AC: Have you come across much AC: What is your favourite? gingerism in your time? CE: At the moment it is an Aston Martin CE: All the time. Famously off your old


G Partnership

EVERYTHING’S GONE GREEN The best part of a room needn’t be restricted to furniture or technology. The Joy Of Plants continues its mission to transform any space with beautiful houseplants

Putting down roots: House plants can bring a range of benefits to any interior

More often than not, the focal point of any room is the television or a show-stealing piece of designer furniture. This needn’t be the case, however, as alternative houseplants are earning their place at the heart of the home, with benefits ranging from air-freshening and energising to low-maintenance: each a handy (and house-friendly) function. The Joy Of Plants is the champion of this idea and is helping persuade young men of the UK – who are sometimes known to steer clear of green-fingered disciplines – to bring in a new dynamic for their spaces by investing in greenery that transforms any bland space. The latest must-have comes in the form of Zanzibar’s native Zamioculcas (right), a plant which has seen a resurgence over the past 15 years and is giving a chance for the designconscious to add another element to their interiors. The Zamioculcas is almost invincible too, surviving in the dark or light and able to function with minimal watering. Perfect, then, for when you leave the plants to do the talking. Discover more at thejoyofplants.co.uk

CAMPAIGN FINANCED WITH AID FROM THE EUROPEAN UNION

ZAMIOCULCAS The Joy Of Plants’ houseplant of the month, the Zamioculcas grows wild across Africa, including in Kenya Zimbabwe, Tanzania, Malawi and Zanzibar. In 1996, the Dutch started to cultivate it and have played a key role in its resurgence.


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E D I T E D BY

CHARLIE BURTON & STUART McGURK

FESTIVAL SPECIAL From camp fires that charge your phone to tents that inflate instantly, a range of smart innovations is reinventing the music festival experience. Here’s our selection...

Space camp: Coachella in Palm Springs is the perfect place to trial our pick of the hottest festival gear

Best for

Photographs Charlie Surbey; Getty Images

Speedy assembly

X Galaxy  Eco 60W lantern by Vango

TENT TEST #1

FastPitch Air Valdes 6 by Coleman Pop-up tents used to have the quick-camp market cornered, but they had a fatal flaw: the structures were flimsy and cramped. The solution comes in the form of inflatable frames – and we love the design of the Coleman. Pumped up in minutes from a single point, it stands at head height with roomy living quarters for six occupants. The clincher: Late riser? Blackouts mean you won’t wake up at dawn. £750. At Ibex Camping. ibexcamping.co.uk

Kiss goodbye to pesky batteries and say hello to solar and kinetic energy with this rechargeable yet very powerful lantern. Bundled with an in-car adapter for back-up, the Vango has variable light output and is ideal for a tabletop or hanging from the tent ceiling. £25. vango.co.uk JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 159


X Boom 2 wireless speaker by UE The tech world can’t seem to create enough Bluetooth speakers, so why choose this one? Well, it’s waterproof (you can even submerge it and it’ll survive), it ofers 360-degree audio and there’s a partner app for updating its smarts. £170. ultimateears.com

X CampStove by BioLite Best for

Groups

TENT TEST #2

Rhapsody 800XL by Vango Less a tent than a canvas house, the Rhapsody accommodates up to eight people. Each person gets their own king-size space and zip-up interior partitions mean you can create rooms to suit sleeping arrangements. Sleeping being the operative word – the tent’s integrated “Tension Band System” keeps the large structure stable even in strong winds. The clincher: Diamond-clear vista windows maximise light and views. £1,500. vango.co.uk

Team it with... Portable grill by BioLite BioLite makes a range of accessories for the CampStove, including this flat-pack grill attachment. Once unfolded it can cater for up to four burgers. £50. bioliteenergy.com

X PowerLight  Mini torch by BioLite Let’s be candid: when answering the call of nature, you really need a light to go hands-free. The PowerLight Mini is ideal. It clips onto you for illumination wherever you go, and lasts over 50 hours. £40. bioliteenergy.com

X Conqueror double sleeping bag by Outwell Sleeping bags are essentially coffins with a tad more give. Not so with the luxury of the Conqueror Double, which gives you room to spread out and will make it feel like you’re slipping into your own bed. Well, almost. £99. outwell.com

160 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016

Farewell, paraffin tins. BioLite’s campfire burns wood to create a smokeless flame and uses the heat to generate electricity. This in turn powers a fan to further boost combustion – meaning you can heat your soup in a flash – and lets you tap into any surplus power via a USB port. £125. bioliteenergy.com


THE LAB Best for

Price

X Nomad 7 solar panel by Goal Zero When your external batteries run dry, you’ll be thankful that you also packed the Nomad. This foldable solar panel lets you charge USB-ready gear directly from the sun. Call us optimists. £99. goalzero.com

TENT TEST #3

Raptor by Robens The Robens Raptor is a non-pop-up tent that will nevertheless stand upright without being pegged. You should still pitch it to keep it securely on the ground, of course, a process that only takes one person five minutes, but it leaves the tantalising possibility of arriving late, throwing in your pack and calling it home for the night. The clincher: A two-person tent, it’ll fit a double mattress snugly and can also be entered from either side. £380. robens.de

Best for

Portability

TENT TEST #4

Abisko Lite 1 by Fjallraven Why kid yourself that you’ll be hosting a festival orgy when, in reality, you’ll use your tent for passing out and little else. For that, the Abisko Lite 1 is perfect: made from Polyamide, it weighs just 1.38kg, and packs into a roll smaller than your sleeping bag. The clincher: It’s great at a festival, but also functions as a trekking tent for all four seasons. £425. fjallraven.co.uk

X Powerstation  5x external battery by Mophie An external battery is a festival essential. The Powerstation 5x has two USB ports for dual charging, and enough juice to charge an iPhone 6 five times over. £105. mophie.com

Photographs Charlie Surbey

X Portable  shower by Quechua Even camping backstage, the shower queue tends to be biblical. Dodge it with this pressure shower: fill it, pump it and you’ll get eight litres of flow. Best of all, it easily folds to a fraction of its size. Just please wear your bathing trunks. £35. At Decathlon. decathlon.co.uk

XCubitura  double mattress by Outwell

X Atmos AG 65 rucksack by Osprey This capacious, easy-access pack has a specialised “AntiGravity” system that moulds to your back, ofering exceptional comfort and breathability. £190. ospreyeurope.com

TENT TEST #5

Cinch

The perfect accompaniment to the Conqueror sleeping bag, this double mattress is an air bed with a microfibre topper: the ultimate in festival luxury. £99. outwell.com

Best for

Staying on-grid

Granted, you could buy a separate solar-charger (see above) but, as you’ll mostly only use it when camping, why not get a tent with one built in? The Cinch four-man boasts integrated panels and energy storage packs. The clincher: It comes with LED tent pegs, so you need never again tank it in the festival darkness. £190. cinchpopuptents.co.uk

X Loc8tor  Lite GPS tracker It’s dark, the tents look similar – but you’ll find yours thanks to this homing device. It guides you back over a range of 122 metres. £60. loc8tor.com

X Treo chair by Thermarest The Thermarest’s unique design means it folds up to the size of a small thermos flask. Comfortable, too. £72. At Amazon. amazon.co.uk JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 161


THE TECH O UHD capability O Record four shows

at once and stream between four devices O 12 tuners O Take your recordings

with you anywhere O Bluetooth

connectivity O 2TB of storage

Pick of the bunch: Sky’s database of unmissable entertainment is now at your fingertips

allows up to 350 hours of HD viewing

OUTSIDE THE BOX Easier, faster and more intuitive: Meet Sky Q, the home entertainment system that’s changing the way we watch television. Switch between devices and take your favourite shows on the move


G Partnership

SCREEN GRAB

Your shows, to go: Pick up your favourite shows from where you left of, on any device

Whenever and wherever, Sky Q’s arsenal of unmissable television is now yours

SKY 1 Entourage (2015)

Game of Thrones® ©2016 Home Box Office, Inc. All rights reserved. HBO® and all related programmes are the property of Home Box Office, Inc

Keep up with Vince, Eric, Johnny, Turtle and Ari in the film adaption of one of Sky’s most-loved shows, following friends experiencing the trials and tribulations of fame.

WE ALL know the way we watch television is changing fast. Whether we’re viewing on a tablet 30,000ft in the air or catching up on a smartphone during a commute, the limits of traditional television are no longer confined to the home. This knowledge is at the core of Sky Q, the latest solution for when you simply cannot wait for world’s greatest television. The idea is refreshingly simple: a fully connected system that allows any show – whether live, on-demand or recorded to be linked across the home (think TV and tablets) and anywhere on the move. This is Sky Q’s “Fluid Viewing” – a function that means you can start your favourite show on a tablet in the kitchen while preparing a meal, pause it and pick up where you left off on another device in the lounge... or anywhere else. It’s intuitive, too: Sky Q’s menu will learn your viewing habits from the word go, including what, how and when you watch specific programmes across any device, meaning that the recommendations in Sky Q’s “For You” section are fully personalised. Discretion is an option for the image-conscious, as Sky Q boasts Bluetooth capability, meaning the box can be hidden away but will remain receptive to the touchpad remote. Innovative and seamlessly linked from one device to another, the Sky Q system is quickly establishing itself as the piece of technology that every home – and, indeed, every room – needs. sky.com/skyq

SKY BOX SETS The Sopranos: Season 1-6

Sky’s the limit: New functionality means that your recordings can be taken anywhere

There is little to match the Soprano legacy in recent television history. The Sky Box Sets of the full six seasons are ready to stream quicker than you can say “Bada Bing”.

SKY ATLANTIC Game of Thrones Season 6

Staying in control Sky Q’s remote control is not just any remote control. While it may hold all the typical Sky functions (pause, rewind, fast-forward), it also boasts Bluetooth connectivity, meaning that wherever the box (or the remote) may be, a solid connection is guaranteed. The touch wheel ensures easy navigation and a “find me” function ensures little time is spent on the hunt for the remote.

Winter is coming, but thankfully you can catch up on the world’s most-adored show and George RR Martin’s masterpiece before it does, on Sky Atlantic.

SKY SPORTS Barclays Premier League The home of the world’s greatest football competition. Sky Sports is the place to catch the best matches, anywhere. Never miss a goal as Sky Q is available on tablet devices.


consumer.huawei.com

Product colour, shape, interface and functions are for reference only. The actual product may vary.


REINVENT SMAR TPHONE PHOTOG R A PH Y.


T H E M E T R O P O L I TA N C O L L EC T I O N T H E S E R I O U S B U S I N E S S O F T I M E L E S S P E R F E C T I O N . Uncompromising experience guides the construction of every hand-turned edge and uncut corner. Fine grain cow hide without and vibrant London Tan calf within conspire to blend understated luxury with elegant necessity. The rigours of work and travel made a singular pleasure. E T T I N G E R . T O E A C H T H E I R O W N .

ETTINGER.CO.UK


Blazer, £60. Top, £15. Trousers, £30. All by Uniqlo. uniqlo.com. Shoes by Jimmy Choo, £425. jimmychoo.com. Watch by Seiko, £279. seiko.co.uk

Get down to easy street

Photographs Cameron McNee Styling Carlotta Constant Grooming Oliver Woods at One Represents using Aveda

Uniqlo’s flagship revamp means more culture, collaborations and affordable classics COMPARED with the likes of the Champs-Elysées, London’s Oxford Street may not be one of the world’s most beautiful shopping streets, but it is without a doubt one of the most exciting and varied. Japanese mega-brand Uniqlo’s first foray beyond its home shores was to London back in 2001. When it opened its flagship on Oxford Street in 2007, it was the largest Uniqlo store in the world at the time. Alas, by 2015 this behemoth of a boutique was looking a little sad around the edges so the decision was made to close it down and refurbish.

ESSENTIAL BUY Bag by Herschel Supply Co, £45. herschelsupply.com

JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 167


Blazer, £60. Jumper, £30. T-shirt, £10. Jeans, £40. All by Uniqlo. uniqlo.com. Shoes by Converse, £65. converse.com. Socks by Falke, £11. falke.com

Jacket, £60. Hoodie, £30. Shirt, £20. Trousers, £30. All by Uniqlo. uniqlo.com. Shoes by Lacoste, £65. At Cruise Fashion. cruisefashion.com

168 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016

Blazer, £60. Shirt, £25. Trousers, £30. All by Uniqlo. uniqlo. com. Tie by Drake’s, £125. drakes.com. Shoes by Church’s, £400. churchfootwear.com. Glasses by Hugo Boss, £160. At Sunglasses Shop. sunglasses-shop. co.uk. Bag by Paul Smith, £495. paulsmith.co.uk

By the time it reopened earlier this year, it hadn’t so much been refurbished as completely transformed. It now boasts five selling floors rather than three and the space has almost doubled. And that’s just to begin with. It will also be the first store in the world to introduce Liberty London for Uniqlo, a new collaboration with the famous London institution found just around the corner. It boasts another brand new concept called The Uniqlo WearHouse London, tipping a wink to the brand’s original name, when it opened its first casualwear shop in central Hiroshima in 1984, The Unique Clothing Warehouse. (It was originally going to be contracted to “Uniclo” but staff in Hong Kong misread the forms so the now-famous name was registered instead.) This new space can be accessed either from within the store or from its own private entrance and lift from Oxford Street, discreetly found just to the right of the

main entrance. The idea is that it will become a cultural hub that will host events throughout the year to celebrate London and the great diversity of its inhabitants. There is also a new roof terrace, offering stunning views across the West End, where events will be hosted throughout the summer. Uniqlo has always been famous for its collaborations with designers around the world – indeed, it was Uniqlo that originally introduced Opening Ceremony to the British public. This year it has joined forces with French designer Christophe Lemaire, ex of Hermès, to create an elegantly easy-going capsule wardrobe inspired by the South of France in the Sixties. But most importantly of all, the store will, of course, be stocking Uniqlo’s unbeatable range of basics and suiting that will ensure that any man’s wardrobe is complete – and here we give you just four of the looks that you can create. RJ uniqlo.com


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LETTER of the MONTH I would like to invest in a new jacket, something with style that will last but I am confused as to what the difference is between a blazer, a sports jacket and a suit jacket? Can you enlighten me? Ross Davies, via email

There is a whole other language of clothes out there that makes it possible to precisely describe particular garments. Alas, this isn’t one of those times. There really isn’t a specific factor that divides a blazer from a sports jacket or a suit jacket – apart from the matching trousers, of course. At a push, one would describe a blazer as smarter than a sports jacket and, despite its heritage, at its smartest when in navy. Arguably, a navy-blue two-button blazer is one of the most versatile garments a man can own. A sports jacket, on the other hand, has a sporting heritage. Therefore, it would tend (and I stress tend) to be cut more loosely for comfort and be more likely to veer towards tweedy. Interestingly enough, this sporting heritage meant that the sports jacket was once considered much posher than a suit – the poor could only afford to have one suit rather than mix and match pieces. A suit jacket meanwhile is precisely that, and should not be worn separately on a regular basis as this runs the risk of it fading at a different rate to its matching trousers. Having said all this, if you are going to invest in a new jacket I would always advise a navy blazer – trust me on this. For more formal purposes, Hackett does a great double-breasted wool, silk and linen hopsack blazer, which is great for travel as its loose weave makes it wrinkle-resistant. Hugo Boss does the perfect pared-down two-button singlebreasted blazer that will look as good with jeans and a T-shirt as it would with flannels for work. 170 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016

Is a Seiko movement better than a Swiss watch? Is a pair of shoes from Loake better than a pair from Next? Is a jacket from River Island better than one from Armani? And please justify a pair of socks for £40! Karl, via email A few years ago I was asked (informally) if I could suggest a suitable suit for Ed Miliband to wear. It proved a lot harder than you might think as it would have ideally been British-made but relatively cheap and those two things are usually incompatible. The truth is, when people sneer at posh politicians in their Savile Row suits, they don’t realise that these are the guys who are actually doing most for the country in terms of supporting skilled tailors (who all pay tax) and British mills. And those that scoff while wearing a gluedtogether suit made by tiny fingers in some foreign hellhole factory where the staff work for peanuts to enrich some tax-avoiding fat cat are the true capitalists in the very worst sense of the world. But that doesn’t play well in the Daily Mail. I quote

Jacket by Billionaire, £9,000. At Harrods. harrods.com

Socks by Pantherella, £40. pantherella.com. Boots by Crockett & Jones, £460. crockettandjones.com

this story to show that things aren’t always as straightforward as they look. At the end of the day a thing is worth how much you are willing to pay for it. A Ferrari won’t get you from Leeds to Liverpool any faster than a Fiat 500 but that hasn’t stopped everyone lusting after an Italian supercar at some point. Likewise, cashmere isn’t a “better” fabric than merino wool; it is simply a choice. A diamond isn’t a “better” crystal than quartz; it is simply one that people will happily pay a lot more for. And when it comes to menswear, the quality and style of many of the high street chains today are excellent for the prices, though the cost will be reflected in the quality of the fabric and longevity. Indeed, the late, great Terry Pratchett formulated the “boots” theory of socioeconomic unfairness – a good pair of boots that cost $50 would still keep your feet dry in ten years’ time while a poor man would have probably spent $100 on multiple cheap boots in the same period and still have wet feet. In other words, over time the rich spend less. But let’s be honest, clothes aren’t simply a way of keeping warm, they also provoke an emotional response and if wrapping

yourself in a luxurious vicuña coat makes you feel wonderful then it is worth every penny. And admit it, unless you’re a dour old soul like Jeremy Corbyn, the fact everyone else can see at a glance that it cost a fortune is probably a plus, too. Personally, however, I don’t see the point of £40 socks. You can’t put them in the washing machine and after a few wears your big toe will be sticking through the end (boots theory in reverse, in fact). But if they float your boat, by all means go ahead and fork out the money.

I have what my friends refer to as “gorilla arms” and so am always on the look out for shirts with long sleeves. Harry, via email I have the opposite problem – my little arms are more of the T-rex persuasion. I did go through a phase of thinking that the resulting flapping cuffs gave me a roguish Restoration Charles II charm but I suspect that most people simply noticed how grubby the cuffs actually were. The length of the average man’s arm is 25 inches but there are lots of variations, usually (though not always) related to height. The boxer Sonny

Photographs Jody Todd

Jacket, £600. Trousers, £100. Shirt, £105. Pocket square, £30. Socks, £14. All by Hackett. hackett.com


Liston had an 84-inch reach (from fingertip to fingertip) meaning – more or less – that he could rest his glove against an opponent’s forehead, leaving them swinging vainly into space. If you’re not Liston, with your arms hanging relaxed at your sides and the cuffs unbuttoned, your sleeve should come down to the first knuckle of the thumb. This may seem long but once buttoned the cuff will sit correctly. You should ideally show a quarter to half an inch of cuff under your jacket sleeve. Unfortunately, most off-the-peg formal shirts have one-size sleeves. Marks & Spencer, however, do sell shirts with sleeves that are plus or minus two inches that should satisfy both Harry and me. For Harry, John Lewis stocks a range of Thomas Pink shirts with extra-long sleeves. Debenhams also offers shirts with longer sleeves but unlike Marks & Spencer these also boast longer bodies, so if you aren’t particularly tall these might not be suitable. Shirt by Marks & Spencer, £30. marksandspencer.com

Submit your questions to our style guru: styleshrink@condenast.co.uk

The author of our Letter Of The Month will receive a stylish black and rhodium Townsend fountain pen worth £190 from Cross. Cross is the maker of quality writing instruments and has a range of distinctive lifestyle accessories. cross.com

Key to the city: Lock & Co has been servicing London for 340 years

Hats of to Lock & Co British hatting heritage starts and ends at St James’s Street second most famous address, finds Nick Foulkes I RATHER envy the Prince Of Wales for his London residence, Clarence House: the generous scale aside, there is the convenience of its location come the Royal Ascot. Should HRH’s silk top hat need reblocking or a bit of sprucing up, all the valet has to do is scamper over the road to Lock & Co, the prince’s hatter, and slip through a door to the right of the back of the second room into the workshops. This is where hats are steamed, brushed, reblocked and even stored for those customers who live abroad but return to London for the season to wear their top hats at Royal Ascot and their panamas at Glorious Goodwood. Lock is a brilliant example of what we in Britain do best: combining heritage and hip with a naturalness that is unequalled anywhere on the planet. Indeed, Lock is celebrating 340 years in business this year, which is longer than many countries have been around, the United States, Germany and Italy among them. Back in the 1660s another Charles, King Charles II, would have looked out of the windows of St James’s Palace and up what was little more than a dirt track. Between the execution of his father and his restoration to the throne, there had not been much call for fancy hats; Puritans could be said to have shared Henry Ford’s view on colours – anything as long as it was black. However, with the royals restored, buildings sprung up along the dirt track, which tidied itself up and called itself St James’s Street; acquiring paving stones, a hatmaker called Robert Davis and a coffee shop owned by George Lock. It was the grandson of this 17th-century coffee importer who married the hatter’s granddaughter Mary. The rest is history, and I mean real history. Since then Lock has been part of the avant-garde of fashion, inventing the bowler hat – which it prefers to call the Coke, after Edward Coke, brother of the

Earl of Leicester, who went to Lock to devise a sort of crash helmet for his gamekeepers (Bowler was the name of the hatter who constructed it). Lock also lays claim to the invention of tweed: apparently it was known as tweel until a Lock employee misread and rewrote it as “Tweed”, the river on which the mill was situated. Prominence in British life seems almost synonymous with an entry in the records of Lock & Co. Churchill was a big Lock customer and he was following a noble tradition. Just before Lord Nelson made his way to Trafalgar to die in Captain Hardy’s arms he picked up a swanky new bicorn hat at Lock, which featured a specially designed eye cockade that covered his damaged eye. Beau Brummell meanwhile favoured round hats from Lock. Oscar Wilde bought a broad-brimmed fedora to wear on a tour of the US. Rather annoyingly, I missed the 2011 auction of monogrammed hats belonging to Douglas Fairbanks Jr (who liked Lock so much he lived in a flat above the shop). The hats went for around $100 apiece. However, not all second-hand Lock hats sell so cheaply; Lock, which made Bond’s trilbies in the Connery days, also made Oddjob’s bowler – sorry, Coke – that Christie’s auctioned for £62,000 in 1998. The wonderful thing is that even though it may be as much of a stop on the tourist trail as the changing of the guard, Lock continues to remain relevant to the modern man of fashion: last summer Nicole Fahri worked with Lock to create a collection of summer panamas. The firm’s Peaky Blindersstyle eight-piece caps have found favour with David Gandy and Beckham, among others. This summer, expect to see Lock linen caps aplenty. They are the go-anywhere headgear of the summer, well, the “almost-go-anywhere” would be more correct. I wouldn’t advise wearing one if you want to get into the Royal Enclosure at Ascot.

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GQ’s Contributing Fashion Editor meets star designer Christopher Raeburn, the accidental environmentalist whose ‘slow clothes’ philosophy is redefining streetwear WHAT do Liz Hurley, sump parts, secondhand lifeboats and Swiss Army knives have in common? Together, they represent just a few signposts in the twisting road followed by Christopher Raeburn. That road has led Raeburn, 33, to a unique position in British menswear – his own label has only seven employees but his clothes are stocked in Selfridges and Harrods and he sidelines as artistic director of the fashion division of one of the mightiest masculine marques in the world, Victorinox. Most crucially, while the clothes he produces are “fashion”, they also possess a moral value and are damned cool with it. Provenance is central to the appeal of Raeburn’s designs. And his own provenance, Raeburn ventures over a beer in a Bastille bar, was vital in shaping that aesthetic. The youngest of three brothers, he grew up near Sevenoaks in Kent – “in the middle of the country so you had to make your own fun”. Thanks to their father, Alan, an emergency officer for Bromley Council with a yen for restoring vintage cars, that fun involved making things. “Our dad would encourage us to design stuff and make technical drawings, and then he’d help us make them at the weekend.” Raeburn was also a member of the Air Cadets: “So

I was always around kit, doing Duke Of Edinburgh awards, and I learned to fly all sorts: helicopters and planes and bits and bobs, which I thought was quite normal.” So he was raised a yomper, a fly-boy and fixer-upper – but also a bit of a nerd, too. “I was always fascinated by the different function of fabrics.” This led Raeburn to study fashion design at Middlesex University, where, while no longer an air cadet, he remained uplifted by all things military. “When I was at Middlesex you could buy incredible battle dress jackets from the Fifties for a pound each in Portobello market. It fascinated me that you could find all these things that had been made yet were somehow weirdly redundant.” After finishing training at the Royal College Of Art, Raeburn was recruited as a contestant for Project Catwalk, (“like The Apprentice for designers”) hosted by Liz Hurley. He won one round with a killer wedding frock, but “got knocked out just before the final because I couldn’t design a dress for Elizabeth Hurley. To be fair, it was a terrible dress.” The show led to a pattern-cutting job that allowed Raeburn to save, and then establish the beginnings of a studio in an unused space above a J-cloth factory Parka by Christopher Raeburn, £1,095. christopherraeburn.co.uk

Eco warriors: The military and Mongolia were key inspirations for Christopher Raeburn’s AW16 show

in Luton. It was first here, and then in a disused peanut factory in Hackney Wick that hosted all-night raves – “a brilliant but terrible place” – that Raeburn and team began making new designs out of surplus fabrics, particularly parachute canopies. Given their military provenance, and Raeburn’s own history, these were effectively handmade pieces of performance clothing with a military flavour – couture streetwear. And then it happened. Although Raeburn says he’d never considered the environmental aspect of his work, when he was urged to enter a competition held by The Ethical Fashion Forum, he won and the prize was a spot on the AW09 schedule at London Fashion Week, showing womenswear. He received orders for men’s pieces too and when London Collections Men began in 2012 Raeburn’s was the closing event. Today, up to 30 per cent of Raeburn’s collections are his Remade In England pieces – garments refashioned from surplus. One collection featured outerwear made from high-vis canopies of lifeboats he purchased secondhand, while the Mongolia-themed AW16 collection closed with a brace of snowflake-explosion ponchos made from surplus snow camouflage fabric. Over time, his range has broadened while retaining focus: AW16 also featured many highly desirable but more straightforward bombers, knits and denim. Bigger brands, including Moncler, Nike, Barbour and Fred Perry, were quick to recruit Raeburn for collaborations. Three years ago Victorinox appointed him artistic director of its fashion. Thus Raeburn has a wide reach, but a small footprint. In that bar, after showing me his sleek, vaguely paramilitary profile boots – fruits of a new collaboration with Clarks – he said, “I think you have an obligation to consider what you are doing and why, how you are consuming and why. When I think about everything going on out there – politically, economically and everything else – I’ve realised that you have to.” Raeburn is an accidental environmentalist whose slow clothes, (re)made for modern life, represent an enlightened choice. Unless you’re Liz Hurley. christopherraeburn.co.uk

Photograph Charlie Surbey With thanks to The Aquatic Design Centre

The best of British by Luke Leitch


Watch by Omega, £4,785. omegawatches.com

Star power Omega’s latest timepiece unites Hollywood glamour with Nasa technology SURPRISINGLY enough, it isn’t all about Eddie. Redmayne is the face of Omega’s new watch, the Globemaster, and a willing one at that, as Omega likes to aim high – he joins George Clooney, Cindy Crawford and Nicole Kidman – and look to the long term. But helpful as Hollywood glamour is in capturing attention, the Globemaster is big news for Omega, as it is everything the Swiss watchmaker has been working towards for two decades. Omega wants the Globemaster to be the reference point against which the likes of

Breitling, Cartier and, yes, Rolex compete. That’s ambitious, but Omega believes it has the watch to do it. That confidence is based on a series of technical advances both in the watch and in the way it’s made. The Globemaster is produced in an environment that Nasa might envy, using materials and ideas liberally borrowed and adapted from aerospace, medicine, computing and even Formula One. It’s all deployed to counter the real problems real people have with mechanical watches. Essentially this boils down to

questions of precision, durability and longevity. Can you make watches that are more accurate; can you make them more robust; and can you make them last longer without needing a service? Omega’s answer has been to use materials that don’t magnetise and need less lubricant and mechanisms that create less friction, backed up by state-of-the-art manufacturing. The result is watches that are a few seconds a day more precise than current chronometer standards but, more usefully, they don’t need to be serviced at the same rate as normal watches – and that saves you money. Omega says four years for the Globemaster, but thinks that testing will allow it to up that significantly. Eddie aside, much of Omega’s communication about the Globemaster focuses on Metas certification, Omega having

persuaded the Swiss government to establish a new quality standard that checks the watch for precision and resistance to water pressure, shocks and magnetic fields. Currently, chronometer testing is only done on the movement before it’s cased up, so the new standard does add something useful. You can even go online and check your watch’s performance. Clever insides are nothing, however, if the package isn’t up to scratch, so it makes sense that Omega based its design on the Fifties Constellation, with contemporary adjustments. This is one of the most sophisticated watch designs of recent years and is already spawning some funkier variations, notably the Annual Calendar version previewed at the LA launch with Mr Redmayne. James Gurney

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Batter up! Levi’s latest vintage collection takes inspiration from the label’s little-known history of sporting achievement

LEVI’S has always been brilliant at bringing all-American classics back to life. Each season, the Levi’s team go through the brand’s astonishing archives with white-gloved hands to look for the next project. This time round the result of their search is a baseball collection, which has picked up the fits, fabrics and details of bygone eras. Paying tribute to (and named after) the company’s now-defunct team, Elesco (founded in the 1900s, their name a play on the initials LS&Co), the brand has brought back some of its most popular designs ready to sport this summer. One of the key pieces in the collection is the baseball T-shirt, decorated with images of Babe Ruth-era boys from the golden age of America’s pastime powering the ball into the outfield. Of course, Levi’s denim plays a part, too, including a reworked version of the brand’s earliest denim jacket, which was created in the 1880s and reproduced in a newly developed loom-state fabric created on the legendary Cone Mills looms.

T-shirt, £75. Jacket, £395. Both by Levi’s. levi.com

Espadrilles, £30. Trousers, £30. Both by David Gandy For Autograph. marksandspencer.com

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Gandy’s getaway IT sometimes feels like David Gandy can do no wrong – and that’s not about to change anytime soon. After the success of his swimwear collection for Autograph last year, he has once again collaborated with the brand to launch a new ten-piece capsule collection. “I wanted to design a range of items that were predominantly stylish but also practical and could be packed and worn from the beach to the bar, from the morning until the evening,” says Gandy. From a cool retro towelling polo shirt to a cotton/linen blend T-shirt and trousers, and a classic summer palette of white, navy and burgundy, this collection of practical beachwear is all you need for that fortnight on the Costa Smeralda.


Jacket, £595. Crew, £195. Both by Stone Island. stoneisland.com

How to win at dating A well-chosen wardrobe is key to Tinder triumphs. Jim Chapman talks us through the first three hook-ups

Bright young things STONE Island has always been known for mixing highperformance wear with a polished aesthetic and militaryinspired twist. More importantly, it has always been at the forefront of fabric technology and this summer is no exception with the launch of a strictly white-and-orange fluoro collection called Marina. With standout colours that have been specially high-pressure dyed, reflective details and a hyper-light, breathable jacket weighing a mere 22g, performance has never looked so good.

Photographs Jody Todd

Match point, Ralph Lauren NOW in its 139th year, what would a British summer be without the Wimbledon Championships (and a lot of Pimm’s and strawberries and cream)? After celebrating ten years of designing for the world’s greatest tennis event last year, Ralph Lauren has unveiled a sharp new redesign of uniforms for all on-court oicials this year. Naturally, you can spot the stylish touch of Ralph Lauren from the back of centre court – and that’s no backhanded compliment. The navy-based uniforms have, as always, accents of purple and green – the traditional colours of Wimbledon since 1909, which, incidentally, was the last time there was an all-British men’s final. The American brand, which celebrates 50 years in business next year, has taken inspiration from photographs of the genteel world of tennis back in the Twenties, Thirties and Fifties, along with photographs of students at Cambridge and Oxford during those same eras. So when watching this year, keep an eye out for the classic, sleek and quintessentially Wimbledon looks sported by the ball boys and girls courtside.

A FRIEND of mine has recently started dating again after coming out of a long-term relationship and it’s been an education for me. One thing I have discovered in the past ten years I’ve been with my wife is that the entire dating landscape has significantly changed. Dating apps like Tinder have taken pride of place in most single people’s smartphones and forced us to put our best photo forward in order to confidently land a date. And given how everything on social media is so carefully selected and edited, how do we live up to our (probably filtered) photos? The saying that you don’t get a second chance at a first impression has never been more true. You have to look your best and live up to your online profile. I like to think I dress well and can appreciate when another man looks good, but in all honesty, it’s hard for me to say what would get the best result on a first date. So I asked someone who knows better: my wife. However, I soon realised I had bitten off more than I could chew. Her initial responses to the topic of dating were: “Is this guy definitely not a serial killer?”, “Is he nice and easy to talk to?” and “What kind of date?” To keep it simple, we used a few guidelines – and if you follow them then you should be fine. The first date is the most casual and arguably the easiest because, depending on what you do, there’s little talking involved. I suggest you go to the cinema. You don’t want to turn up overdressed as it’ll come across too keen (and that’s obviously a big no-no), but you should also avoid turning up looking as if you’ve just come from your mate’s house after a few hours slouched on the sofa in front of the PlayStation. You can still look cool with minimal effort. Play it safe with a pair of jeans and trainers, a nice knit and a casual jacket. Assuming the date goes well, and you end up living together (my wife’s assumption, not mine), then this is the uniform you will be in most of the time.

The second date is your classic dinner and/or drinks. Jeans are still acceptable here, but make sure they are the right ones: keep it clean and simple with indigo blue or black. Wear them with leather boots or shoes and a well-fitted white shirt. (According to my wife, it’s important the top button be open and the sleeves rolled halfway up your forearm.) A good quality leather jacket will look cool and keep your outfit in that perfect middle ground between smart and casual. Date three is a chance for you to pull out all the stops and head to a fancy restaurant. For this one, although you’re going to want to appear smartly dressed, wearing a suit will be too formal. After all, this is a date, not your wedding... Yet. Start with smart shoes and tailored trousers, but ditch the shirt and tie for a knitted longsleeve polo shirt or sweater. This will bring you back from formal territory while injecting a hint of sartorial confidence to your look. Finally, make sure to take an overcoat with you. It’s always a polite thing to offer your date should they feel the chill. Good luck!

Polo shirt by Farah, £60. farah.co.uk. Trainers by Jigsaw, £129. jigsaw-online.com

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ON SALE NOW


Classic Fusion Berluti in rose gold by Hublot, £21,000. hublot.com

Golden years: A detail from the Hublot Classic Fusion Berluti Scritto watch box; (below) the presentation box, featuring Berluti’s signature leather detail

Partners in time Hublot’s Classic Fusion range with Berluti is an unabashed celebration of pure craftsmanship

Alessandro 120th Anniversary Oxfords by Berluti, £1,600. berluti. com; (below) Classic Fusion Berluti in black ceramic by Hublot, from £11,000. hublot.com

KNOWN for its seriously tough timepieces, up until now Hublot’s relationships have been suitably macho, hooking up with the likes of Manchester United, Miami Heat and Formula One. But while these may appeal on a tribal level, Hublot is now turning to a modern man’s love of craftsmanship rather than just performance and has joined forces with luxury menswear brand Berluti in a project with its Classic Fusion range. The Paris-based label was founded in 1895, and gained a reputation for selling footwear to the glamorously well-shod of Europe and America, including Marcel Proust and Frank Sinatra. Perhaps its most celebrated client was Andy Warhol – one of Berluti’s bestsellers is still the Andy loafer, designed for the artist. Today Berluti’s reputation for leather remains unsurpassed and it has now turned its hand to creating limited-edition straps and dials for Hublot’s Classic Fusion, with black leather for the black ceramic model and tobacco-coloured leather for the rose gold. The label’s trademark Venezia leather is treated in the same way as it would be for, say, an Andy loafer, from the patterning and patination to the cutting and the assembly. The black model’s strap features the Berluti Gaspard slash, which is a deliberate evocation of the potential beauty of the flaw, while the tobacco is engraved with a design inspired by 18th-century calligraphy – another Berluti signature classic. In both cases the process is done by hand, meaning that each strap and dial is unique. The watches themselves come in matching presentation boxes that are objects of beauty in their own right – and as Keats says, a thing of beauty is a joy for ever. From £11,000. hublot.com JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 177


The G Preview:June E D I T E D BY

HOLLY ROBERTS

Bringing you the very latest in fashion, grooming, watches, news and exclusive events

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Umbrella by Clements and Church, £299.95. clementsandchurch.co.uk 2 Shirt, £173. T-Shirt, £69. Both by Frame. frame-denim.com Eau Sport Fragrance by Prada Luna Rossa, 125 ml for £73. At Harrods. harrods.com 4 Sweatshirt by Lacoste, £100. lacoste.com 5 Trainers by Harrys of London, £375. harrysoflondon.com 6 Bomber Jacket by Private White VC, £550. privatewhitevc.com 7 Jeans by AG Jeans, £255. At Selfridges. selfridges.com 8 Leather Jacket by Sandro, £685. sandro-paris.com 9 Watch by Graf, from £230,000. grafdiamonds.com


Photograph Mitch Payne Junior Retail Editor Michiel Steur

PREVIEW

We love Accessories by Louis Vuitton Awaken your inner globetrotter with Louis Vuitton’s latest leather ofering, marrying traditional craftsmanship and contemporary design. This textured leather backpack – boasting the season’s signature stripes – is our recommendation for all of your future adventures. To top it all of, the true explorer completes his look with this range of revamped Vuitton classics sporting bright coloured details, creating a lifetime of memories with efortless style. Sunglasses, £245. Washbag, £505. Backpack, £2,120. Belt, £325. Boat Shoes, £445. Wallet, £645. All by Louis Vuitton. uk.louisvuitton.com JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 179


E D I T E D BY

JESSICA PUNTER

Purifying face wash, £7. Ice cool face wash, £7. Gel moisturiser, £15. All by L’Oréal Men Expert. lorealmen.com

Photographs Cyrill Matter/renehauser.com; Jody Todd

Racing lines Formula One world champion Lewis Hamilton proves even superstar millionaires don’t have to splash out in the bathroom SOMEWHERE on the outskirts of Paris, on a faceless industrial estate, Lewis Hamilton takes to the set for his first ever campaign as the face of Hydra Energetic for L’Oréal Men Expert. At least he doesn’t need to worry about getting in shape for the shoot. As with any Formula One driver – let alone a three-time title winner – Hamilton follows a

punishing, relentless daily fitness regime ahead of another new season. “It varies, but the goal is to build your cardio and focus on your core strength, so I usually do two sessions a day. I will do some sort of cardio, like running, and I generally run for about an hour and a half, which for me is anything up to 18k,” says Hamilton. “Afterwards I’m pretty

dead, so I have to have something to eat and a little rest and then do the gym session, which is all core, in particular conditioning my neck.” This sometimes includes strapping weights to his helmet to help him build the necessary muscle to withstand the forces put on it during a race. “When you go through those corners, your head tries to go in the opposite direction, and lap after lap those muscles fatigue the quickest, so I am always working on the neck.” JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 181


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GROOMING Formula One races are incredibly tough on the body – what’s the first thing he wants to do after a race? “If I’ve won, there is a certain feeling and if I’ve lost, there’s another thing I want to do. Often you just want to get drunk! But, mostly I want to get in the shower. You feel sticky, your suit is drenched.” Recovery is typically a short jog or resistance work in the pool and lots of physio. “I do yoga and pilates. After some races you feel OK, some you’ve got sore muscles or pain in your lower back or neck. Some take days to get over. And as I get older I feel the effect of it more.” How does he stay motivated? “I don’t need anything to get me going. But I do turn the music up: Fetty Wap, Future, Drake, heavy hip-hop bass tracks.” As an ambassador for London Collections Men, Hamilton isn’t afraid to experiment with style, especially when it comes to his hair. “My blond look was my favourite,” he says of the platinum dye job that he wore to GQ’s Men Of The Year last year. “I remember getting it done and everyone was like, ‘No, don’t do it.’ I really liked it. I think you’ve just got to be open-minded, and at the end of the day it’s not an everlasting effect – your hair is going to grow back!”

‘I really liked being blond. Everyone else was like, “No, don’t do it!”’

Photographs Getty Images; Jody Todd

Body work: Lewis Hamilton at the Japanese Grand Prix, 27 September 2015; (right) eye roll-on by L’Oréal Men Expert, £8. lorealmen.com

Off the grid, Hamilton hangs out with supermodels and pop stars, so has he ever received style advice from Nicole Scherzinger or Gigi Hadid? “Generally not. They never say, ‘Oh, you should try this.’ My stylist will suggest things, such as a nice fragrance, because it’s not easy for me to go out and buy one.” But surely, on his income he could go bespoke? “I like a good fragrance. But I value money so I wouldn’t pay a silly amount for it! There are a lot of affordable ones that smell great and that’s all you need.” So if Hamilton could drive any car, on any track, against any driver in history, what, where and who would he choose? “The track would be South Africa. I’d race against Ayrton Senna, Stirling Moss, Manuel Fangio, Nigel Mansell. The car would be a 1988-89 McLaren MP4/4 – which is just such a cool car.” And he would win, right? “[Laughing] I’d hope so! Those four drivers were the best of all time.” For anyone who has ever seen the footage of a tiny, laser-focused Hamilton winning a radio-controlled car race against Blue Peter presenter John Leslie, it’s clear his talent was born and not made. And he does confess to hitting the snooze button – so perhaps he’s not completely superhuman after all. Modelling aside, what does the rest of the year hold for Hamilton? “I am going to fight for another championship.” And with his team, Mercedes, looking dominant once again, the rest of the field have been warned. JP lorealmen.com

Pearly king: Judy Blame’s concession design for Jo Malone at Selfridges

PUSH THE BUTTON Every home has one: a bowl or jar of loose coppers, foreign coins, random buttons, the odd safety pin and a couple of useless old keys. Still, one man’s detritus is another man’s treasure and this random assortment has provided endless inspiration to the legendary stylist and designer Judy Blame. During the Eighties, Blame hosted Cha Cha’s, a club night at Heaven and the epicentre of the New Romantic scene, while styling and art directing for Neneh Cherry, Kylie Minogue, Shakespears Sister, Björk and Culture Club, along with editorial work for The Face, i-D and Blitz. His vision defined an era, and continues to do so. Over the years, Blame has collaborated with some of fashion’s most powerful and influential names, including Louis Vuitton, Comme Des Garçons, John Galliano and Marc Jacobs. Now, it’s the turn of Jo Malone, the quintessential British fragrance house, with a cologne available exclusively online and at Selfridges and Jo Malone Regent Street. “My style is eclectic. I came up with a way of mixing my punk roots with the traditional style of the Pearly Kings and Queens. It’s a mix of modernity and history,” explains Blame, of the

signature button insignia that will adorn Jo Malone bottles, boxes and ribbons for a limited time. The appeal of this everyday item according to Blame is that “they’re everywhere!” Indeed, in the cash-strapped Seventies and Eighties, buttons and pins were cheap and plentiful, making them the perfect materials for Blame to work with. Does he think we should re-evaluate our attitude to stuf? “I can’t help seeing everyday items diferently. I’ve always used recycled items within my work and in today’s climate especially, recycling is something everyone should be a part of. Stop throwing your rubbish in the oceans!” With this in mind, how will he be reusing his Jo Malone boxes? “To store more buttons and safety pins!” Obviously. JP From £85 for 100ml. jomalone.co.uk

JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 183


David Furnish and Sir Elton John

Christoph Waltz and Naomie Harris

This year’s GQ Men Of The Year awards is looming into view and you can win the chance to attend the starriest awards ceremony in the country. To get your hands on the hottest tickets in town, read on...

T

he GQ Men Of The Year awards is, we modestly suggest, the best award ceremony in the country. Not because of the gongs themselves (although they are an arresting combo of gold and glass) nor the number of famous people (though, frankly, we boast as many as the Baftas). No, the best thing about the GQ Men Of The Year awards – held proudly in association with Hugo Boss for the fourth year in a row – is that one can see the fastest man on four wheels (Lewis Hamilton) mingle with the Mother of Dragons (Game Of Thrones’ Emilia Clarke), a design genius (Marc Newson) mix with a comic genius (Will 184 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016

Ferrell) and a rock legend (Keith Richards) clinking glasses with a love-god crooner (Lionel Richie). To talk nothing of Blur, David Gandy, Christoph Waltz, Stuart Broad and Sam Smith. We even gave an award to JJ Abrams, who apparently directed some film called Star Wars. As always, we plan for this year to be even better. Held at the Turbine Hall at Tate Modern on London’s Southbank on 6 September, we’d also like you to help us choose the Breakthrough award winner. Go to GQ.co.uk to vote and one lucky reader will be randomly chosen to win two tickets to the ceremony and a money-can’t-buy goodie bag from Hugo Boss.

Alicia Rountree

Photographs Getty Images; Joshua Lawrence; James Mason; PA; Antonio Salgado

2016


MEN OF THE YEAR

Claudia Winkleman and JosĂŠ Mourinho

Steve Coogan and Will Ferrell

James Bay; (right) Sam Smith

Tinie Tempah

Irene Agbontaen, Zezi Ifore, Emmanuel Ezugwu and Jourdan Dunn

To vote for the Vertu Breakthrough award winner, email gqletters@ condenast.co.uk or vote online at GQ.co.uk Closing date:

1 July 2016

Emilia Clarke

I N A S S O C I AT I O N W I T H

David Gandy

Samuel L Jackson

Oliver Cheshire and Pixie Lott

Daisy Lowe

Paul Rudd

Lewis Hamilton, Lionel Richie and Keith Richards


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E D I T E D BY

PAUL HENDERSON

BEAR GRYLLS Boost your status among the bold and the brave

CELIA HEMPTON Meet the artist putting online sex chatrooms on canvas

SURF FITNESS Our three-point plan for power and poise on the waves

I, REBOOT Fine-tune your body clock, download more brainpower and hack yourself healthier with 24 upgrades for analogue self-improvement ILLUSTRATION BY

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JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 187


24 health hacks

1

Looking to live better and healthier for longer? Follow our simple tips, diet swaps and social media upgrades to kick-start a lifestyle change that gets results 7 Sign up for Nudgemail

9 Become a Sleep Genius

Don’t miss another meeting/date/ appointment/ deadline/court appearance thanks to Nudgemail. Enter the details, when you’d like a reminder, and you’ll get an email prompt straight to your smartphone. nudgemail.com

Favoured by space nappers Nasa, this personalised sleep app can help you work out the best bedtime, wake you at the right time, teach you relaxation techniques and how to power nap. sleepgenius.com

Download 8 Elevate

Wake up at the same time every day (yes, even on weekends) People that sleep in longer on Saturday and/or Sunday morning are more likely to sufer from hypertension, sluggishness and fatigue.

2 Don’t press snooze

That extra 15 minutes of fake shuteye actually does more harm than good. Not only are you disturbing your natural circadian sleep rhythms, but hitting snooze tricks your body into going back into a deep sleep. Just get up.

stick it 3 Cinnamon Ditch the demerara and try a sprinkle of cinnamon in your coffee. Not only will it help you cut back on sugar, it will also lower your cholesterol, improve brain function and is packed with antioxidants.

eat in front of the TV 4 Never Gawping at the gogglebox while eating is a proven cause of weight gain. Get distracted by the latest episode of House Of Cards and it’s likely you won’t register how much you are eating or how full you feel.

5 And slow down (when you eat)

Eating too quickly is obviously bad for digestion, but the bigger issue is that it takes about 20 minutes after you start eating for your brain to realise you’re no longer hungry.

a pre-bed shower 6 Have Ease your way into sleep with a warm shower before bed. The water dilates blood vessels, relaxes muscles and removes toxins from the skin.

Candy Crush is not going to make you a better person. Instead, download brain-training app Elevate. Apple’s App Of The Year ofers daily cognitive training challenges that exercise your mind and make you smarter. elevateapp.com

Drink lemon juice every morning 10 Start the day the Ayurveda way with a glass of warm water and lemon juice. It cleanses your palate, helps flush out your kidneys and liver and removes toxins.

11 Add Epsom salts to your bath

Why? How about: to boost magnesium levels (that are sapped by stress), helping produce serotonin that induces the feeling of calmness and relaxation in the brain; to relieve pain; to ease muscle cramps; to improve circulation; and to flush out toxins.

your tongue 12 Scrape Yes, it will boost your dental health, but it will also reduce bad breath, remove bacteria and improve your taste buds. OraBrush Tongue Cleaner, £3.40. At Boots. boots.com

in with your right ear 13 Lean If you struggle to hear what is being said at a party or in a crowded restaurant, lean in with your right ear. You’ll find it much easier to pick up the rapid rhythms of speech.

Write down the good stuf 14 According to psychologist Martin Seligman, at the end of the day you should take ten minutes to write down three good things that happened to you and how they made you feel. You end your day feeling positive, no matter what else happened.

your shoes of 15 Take Not just for the house-proud, popping off your shoes at home is all about health: shoes carry 421,000 units of bacteria (including E coli), toxins and herbicides.

16

Follow someone fit on Instagram…

Turn social media into your support group. We recommend Joe Wicks, AKA @thebodycoach, who has become famous for his Lean In 15 recipe book, fitness tips and online training advice.

188 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016

Illustrations Greygouar at MP Arts Photographs Instagram/@thebodycoach

WELLBEING


LIFE

23 Clear your mind

24 Get a standing desk

We all know we should be meditating, don’t we? It isn’t diicult, doesn’t take long, and all it costs you is time. As for the benefits, well, who wouldn’t want to be smarter, calmer, happier, less stressed and more productive? buddifhy.com

17 Blow on your thumb

1 Start of by standing for just an hour or two per day. It doesn’t sound like much, but your body will need time to adapt.

20 Diet yourself sensible

Feeling stressed? Stick your thumb in your mouth and blow (don’t let air out). This will stimulate the vagus nerve that runs down your body, slowing your heart rate and calming you.

Whatever your dietary needs, Spoon Guru is the app for you. Simply program in your allergies/needs/fitness goals and Spoon Guru will provide you with online recipes, suggest foods and scan barcodes to find the ideal meal for you. spoon.guru

Or snif an orange

Use a smaller plate

21 In a study published in the Journal Of Consumer Research, shifting from

18 According to a 2013 study conducted by Brazilian scientists, people who sniffed sweet orange essential oil before performing a stressful test were less anxious and had an increased sense of wellbeing.

19

Switching from a sitting desk to a sit/stand version needn’t mean an office redesign. Varidesk are pioneers in afordable, easy-to-use adjustable desks that can be incorporated into an existing work space. The statistics on the health benefits of standing desks are impressive, but the key with adapting to this change is to make gradual adjustments.

a 12in plate to a ten-inch plate resulted in a 22 per cent reduction in calories.

2 Be aware of your posture. Keep your back straight, aim to relax your body. You shouldn’t have to angle your head or body to see the computer screen. 3 Remember to take breaks. Standing in one spot can cause problems, so move regularly, stretch your muscles and think about investing in an anti-fatigue mat.

Get a serious activity tracker

Rather than a faddy fashion bracelet, the Fitbit Blaze touchscreen watch monitors your heart rate alongside your everyday movements, giving a far greater analysis of everything you do (or don’t do). £160. fitbit.com

22

4 Wear supportive footwear, ideally trainers, when you are at your desk. And if you do have to go out or take a meeting, simply change your shoes.

Eat lunch outside

Dining al desko might make you feel more productive, but it just ain’t so. Taking a break outside – AKA “nature therapy” – can reduce stress, boost performance and increase job satisfaction.

5 Don’t feel that sitting down is wrong. Split your time between standing and sitting. PH From £275, uk.varidesk.com

JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 189


BEAR GRYLLS: #13 SPEAK TO POWER

THROUGH my job, I’ve had the privilege of meeting, adventuring and often hanging out – literally – with an incredible array of people. From Hollywood stars to African bushmen, from nomads to hall-of-fame athletes, and even the president of the United States himself. Along the way, I’ve picked up a number of tips for interacting with, communicating with and bringing onside people from all walks of life. It is a skill that will always be important if you are to be a strong influence in your world. I will always remember what my mother told me before I met my school headmaster for the first time: when people get dressed in the morning, we all put our trousers on one leg at a time. In other words, whoever we are, whatever our title, history or status, we’re all the same underneath. And almost everyone, no matter how famous or powerful, is walking around with similar anxieties. Do I look OK? Does my breath smell? Will this affect my future, my happiness or my family? But the truth is that it’s OK to be a little nervous before meeting new people. Some people try to cover nerves with overconfidence when they meet well-known

7 The percentage of people worldwide who sufer from social anxiety disorder (AKA social phobia). It is the third largest mental healthcare problem in the world.

Running for office: The call of nature provided common ground when Bear Grylls met President Obama, 2015

Create a rapport with the great, the good, your friends and colleagues

figures. Having been on the receiving end of that myself, I know it’s always a mistake. A few nerves are a good thing. Better to be shy than cocky. In the early days of Running Wild, I would take a few deep breaths to calm my anxiety before knocking on the hotel doors of the celebrities to brief them before filming. I was nervous. Often, I still am. But that’s OK. It shows respect for the person and for what we are about to embark on together. In meeting people for the first time, humility is your greatest weapon to win people to your side. It’s also a good idea to steer clear of asking obvious questions that famous figures answer ten times a day. As long as you’re being authentic, it’s OK to ask more personal questions. What’s the toughest part of what they do? How do they stay grounded living in the public eye? People like to talk about the journey they’ve been on. These subjects are often more important to them than their latest movie or even their politics. Then all you need to do is listen (you have two ears and one mouth: use them in that proportion). Never dominate people’s time. Always leave five minutes too early, before the time has come for you to be ushered away. Thank them for their time. Look them in the eye. It’s the small things that matter. These principles apply both to presidents and post room boys. Because that post room boy might one day be president. So treat everyone the same, with kindness and respect, and you will do more to influence people than with any conversational techniques. Once we develop the quiet confidence to see beyond labels and titles, we discover all humans are much the same. Treat each man or woman according to how you would like to be treated and you will win the hearts of kings and kinsmen. Oh, and if in doubt revert to a little lavatory humour! This one helped me with President Obama, as I explained to him which plants help with wind in the wild. He chuckled and told me it wasn’t a problem he had and the ice was broken. It’s proof positive that no matter how powerful you are we’re all fundamentally the same: two legs and one arsehole. beargrylls.com

Photographs Getty Images; Steve Neaves; Ben Riggott Grooming Alice Howlett using YSL Beauté Model Aitor Manuel Alonso at W Athletic Shorts by Quiksilver, £55. quiksilver.co.uk

How to talk to presidents


LIFE

PERSONAL TRAINER: #5 SURFING

Make waves in the gym

MANY surfers are reluctant to start strength training because they fear it will bulk them up and slow them down. But building a stronger, more powerful body does not necessarily have to involve getting bigger. In fact, you may actually get lighter if you start to lift weights, because your body’s composition will change. Admittedly the best way to stay fit and improve your surfing is to get in the water, paddle out and surf, but spending some time on dry land, in the gym, training for strength and endurance will not only help to keep you injury-free, but will also make you a more powerful surfer. Surfing requires whole-body effort so exercises should be whole-body too. Jonathan Goodair

The plan Exercise 2

Overhead lunges Exercise 1

Single-leg deadlifts Stand on right leg with left knee lifted to 90 degrees. Keep back straight as you hinge forward at hips and reach left leg behind so torso and leg are parallel to floor. Hold for 30 to 60 seconds before returning to start position, then repeat with the other leg.

Stand with feet hip-distance apart, holding dumbbells overhead with arms straight but not locked. Step forward into lunge position so right thigh is parallel with the floor. Bracing your abdominals, drive through the right foot and return to start position. Repeat with the left leg. Perform 3 sets of 12 reps for each leg with 60 seconds rest between sets.

Exercise 3

Pop-ups Lie on stomach with hands by ribs, fingers pointing forward, feet together, chest lifted, shoulders wide and eyes looking forward. Explosively push up with arms and jump feet forward into side-facing crouch or squat stance, ideally with feet parallel and shoulder distance apart. Perform 3 sets of 8 reps landing with left foot forward. Repeat, landing with right foot forward. Rest for 90 seconds between sets. For more information, visit jonathangoodair. com; homehouse.co.uk

Ride it out Quiksilver doesn’t make surfboards personally... but they know the best shapers who do. Commissioning the likes of Phil Grace, Simon Anderson and Mark Phipps, Quiksilver ofers boards for all levels of surfer and all types of waves. £650. quiksilver.co.uk

JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 191


G Partnership

GROOM FOR IMPROVEMENT The Remington Vacuum 5 in 1 Grooming Kit is sure to raise your style game, with selfsharpening titanium blades as standard

SHARPEN UP The Remington Vacuum 5 in 1 Grooming Kit is the all-in-one solution to men’s grooming requirements, fusing two vacuum heads (for wider and detailed trims), a nose and ear trimmer, a foil shaver and body groomer for general use, ensuring that no hair is left ungroomed.

Cut to the chase Why scramble through a handful of grooming tools when you can sharpen up with just one? Remington’s Vacuum 5 in 1 Grooming Kit promises a completely hassle-free approach to your grooming regime, with its vacuum chamber capturing loose hairs, meaning less mess by eliminating the need for that post-trim clean-up.

It’s time to change your trimming and a foil shaver bathroom routine, thanks for those finishing to Remington’s latest touches. Each function grooming must-have: the ensures that (without Vacuum 5 in 1 Grooming having to switch device) Kit. Built for those up any rogue patches are against the clock, it seen to and – as its name promises a mess-free suggests – are vacuumed regime with unique into a internal container, vacuum technology and ready for disposal. – while you may not If you are on the move, associate the bathroom the storage case keeps with the latest gadgetry all of the components – is helping the future together between look reassuringly stylish locations, and a lithium with an all-in-one battery guarantees up approach to to 60 minutes of grooming. cordless use. ON THE GO? The lithium It starts, Unsurprisingly, battery ensures naturally, with it’s an awardup to 60 minutes of cordless use, beard trimming winner, securing ideal when on and shaving, the Editor‘s the move where the Choice Award self-sharpening at the 2015 GQ titanium blades make it an Grooming Awards. The essential for any wash Vacuum 5 in 1 Grooming bag. It has two vacuum Kit goes to prove that heads, one for beard when it comes to style, trimming and another for a combination of easy detailing, along with an execution and impressive adjustable comb for design is always a winning different beard lengths. approach, especially There’s a trimmer for the when you’re looking for a ears and nose, with a body grooming game-changer. groomer for all over remington.co.uk


LIFE

1

FRAME Carbon fibre, available in four sizes (weighing from 1.15kg). WHEELS Fits tyre widths from 28mm to 2.1 inches.

CYCLING

The bike you can ride anywhere

THE UP stands for Unbeaten Path, which says it all really; this is a bike built to be thrashed around on the enticing tracks you’ve been itching to explore on your road bike. As it’s designed to accommodate two wheel sizes, you just need to decide whether to run oversized road slicks or cyclocross tyres on road-sized (700c) wheels, or throw on a pair of 2.1 inch mountain-bike knobbies (on smaller 650b hoops). Either way, the Earth is your oyster.

Gerard Vroomen (formerly of Cervélo) has used his carbon road bike expertise to design a featherlight “aerospace grade” frame with a drive-side chainstay that allows the space to run big rubber while retaining the look and feel of a regular quick-handling road machine. So you can barrel over roots and rocks off-road without the bloated feel of a mountain bike. Two words sum it up: Game. Changer. Andrew Diprose

2

EXTRAS Disc brakes, internal gear-shift cables, asymmetric chainstays and a bag mount for tools (or snacks)

3

PERFECT FOR... Road, cyclocross, gravel racing and adventure riding. £2,230 for frame and fork. up.opencycle.com

Wheelie, wheelie good-looking: All the UP’s cables are tucked away inside the carbon frame for greater off-road protection and cleaner lines JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 193


GQ Bar Dubai JW Marriott Marquis Hotel Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai

gqbar.com |


LIFE

SEX

The art of self love

Photographs Celia Hempton courtesy of Southard Reid; Arnaud Lajeunie

Turning digital-age sex into old-school art, Celia Hempton’s paintings shed new light on the lurid world of video chatrooms THE screen cuts to black. A pause, as the connection loads. The page is bright and blinking. “Chat Random!”, “Random Chat!”, “Girls Roulette!”, “Gay Chat!”, “Chat Rooms!”, “Cam4 Chat!”. Suddenly, a nude figure appears, legs spread, penis in hand, torso facing the webcam, which cuts him off just at the throat. The location finder says he’s from India. He’s masturbating slowly. “I quite like that,” says Celia Hempton (above), who’s surveying the image on her laptop. Next to the video, a chat box suggests a message is being typed. “What can we do? Can we fun?” he asks, clearly pleased with the young woman before him. Celia looks to her computer and stretches out an arm. Carefully, she selects a brush. A blank canvas before her is suddenly awash with colour and hurried, urgent brushstrokes. “Hey,” she replies carelessly with the other hand, still stroking the canvas. Eventually, her web partner starts covering up his genitals. “He doesn’t like me painting him,” she muses, laying down the brush and turning to her keyboard. She seeks permission to continue. A pause. “Sure,” he replies. Since 2014, British artist Celia Hempton has spent between three and six days each week sitting before her laptop, logged into Chat Random, painting online exhibitionists from all across the world. Her studio is a strangely serene environment given the task at hand. On one wall, the “Chat Random paintings”, as she calls them, hang. They are small, varied and bright. Some are torsos, others penises or anuses, others seem completely abstract, a few are faces. All of them are the size of a computer screen, a nod to the technology that facilitates them. On an adjacent wall, a huge nude hangs. It looks more studied, gentle even. Between some other studies of genitalia is a cheerful rendering of a bunch of green grapes. Hempton likes variety. Today, just a few years into her career, Hempton is now represented by Southard Reid and has exhibited internationally. She studied at Glasgow School Of Art, then the Royal College Of Art and began by painting the outdoor environment. Together with friends such as Prem Sahib and her partner, Eddie Peake, she is part of a generation of London-based artists gaining attention for

their bold explorations of sexuality, gender, representation, subculture and fetish. “When I was a teenager I was obsessed with cities and urban landscapes,” she explains. “I became interested in putting bodies in gendered landscapes, so I’d go and paint on building sites.” The body parts and organs that occupy her recent work seem to correspond to those works, which in their own way are sexual and alive. “A pipe would look like an orifice, or the landscape might look like spread legs,” she recalls. “I do see the landscapes as similar to the ‘Chat Randoms’ – they both document spaces.” The wildness of the outdoors does correspond to the web – a vast, ever-evolving, almost terrifyingly uncontrolled space. If you thought Chat Roulette (the original service dedicated to video chatting with strangers) was the “Wild West” of the internet, then Chat Random is another level. You don’t need to register or even give a name to start streaming. Naked

‘I’ve challenged my own judgements about people – and men’ girls, boys and couples are just one click away. This lack of monitoring appeals to Hempton. In her work, the relationship between subject and artist is in flux. As with all sex, it’s about control. The painting stops as soon as the chat session is over – some last a few minutes, others over an hour. If the poser decides he can’t get off or fancies someone new to watch, Hempton’s time is up. “You’re mediated by the screen and the internet. At any moment they could click off me or the connection could drop, so the power balance is complicated.” Also, like sex, it’s hard to know if it was a mistake or success until the act is complete. She’s covered a hundred, but a fair few get painted over. “I don’t know what I think about it until I’ve lived with it.” Hempton’s paintings offer an insight into the penchants of a worldwide community of extrovert masturbators. “It has been intriguing

The female gaze: The subjects of Celia Hempton’s Chat Random series are often faceless figures taken from online sex sites

culturally because I paint people from India, the Middle East, Norway, Canada, Australia, Japan. I’m not suggesting in any way that this is a form of scientific research, but I do see it as a form of artistic and visual research. I’ve challenged my own judgements about people, and men, in making the work.” That said, she’s made some findings. She nods towards the man on screen. “Indian guys on here are usually really polite. They seem to want something, but they don’t ask for it – they are quite patient,” she explains. “That said, it’s complex, and misleading if you start generalising. You can make these sweeping theories, like French men tend to be really athletic, with big penises, or German men are more kinky and usually doing something with their anus,” she says, laughing. “But every interaction is layered and unique, particular of course to that specific website and also filtered through a sort of cyber reality rather than what it would be like if the person was actually in front of me in my studio.” Mr India is taking to his role as a model. He stays still as the painting progresses. “He’s posing,” she smiles. Typing, he asks to see. She turns the canvas around and he gives her a thumbs up. Seeing his form rendered in oil clearly swells his confidence. “Can I stand my penis?” he types, seeking permission in broken English. “Yes,” she replies, clearly the one in control. He begins masturbating again. Her JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 195


LIFE painting gets quicker. Eventually, he becomes too animated; moving around, changing position. “He’s not doing what I want,” she muses out loud. He has taken control. As if seeing her pause, brushes in the air, he resumes position – chest out, legs apart – and releases his penis. Power is exchanged again. “I quite like him,” she says, surveying his slim frame. She reaches for another canvas, typing with the other hand. “Are you telling him you’re doing another one?” I ask. “No, I’m just telling him he looks nice,” she smiles. Words are not always shared between Hempton and her men. Permission to paint is not usually sought. “I just start – they can see what I’m doing.” Occasionally she asks for a name or an age: Mr India is 25. In exchange, she gives a fake name; it avoids men getting in touch again or, through Google detective work, tracking her down and coming to see the paintings. Men using the site can be just as secretive. “Sometimes they have software on their computer that scrambles the location so they’re not actually where they say they are. I always get freaked out by the real IT nerds – I feel like they’ll have some way to get into my computer,” she laughs. Given her aversion to IT nerds, it’s interesting that Hempton is seen as an artist who champions the web. In January her works went on display as part of the Whitechapel Gallery’s Electronic Superhighway, which explores the impact of computer and internet technologies on artists from the Sixties to today. She sees the effect of online dating sites and apps as complex and layered. “When you think of Tinder and those kind of outlets, it’s about presenting yourself in a beautiful way, like a consumable object. This is the complete opposite. I see men in stained clothing, sitting with their bellies hanging out in a really unattractive position. It’s only occasionally you’d get someone posing like this,” she says, turning to Mr India. “Most people choose a position which is just easy for them to get off.” The second canvas of our Indian e-date is almost complete. “After painting, can we have fun?” he asks eventually. “Maybe later. I’ve got someone here with me,” she replies. “Can I see your friend?” he types. She shrugs. Cautiously, I stand up and walk in front of the screen. I wave awkwardly, less used to life on webcam than Hempton. We stand side by side like awkward teenagers waiting for his appraisal.

“You two – gorgeous,” he replies. His hand returns to his penis. “It’s distracted him,” she laughs, making her final marks. She turns the canvas around. His chest swells. “He likes being painted,” she says affectionately. Since the stream began, we still haven’t seen his face, but there seems to be a certain intimacy. “Thanks lady,” he types. “You made me.” She clicks off. Hempton carries the paintings to her wall of “Chat Randoms” and props them up. It looks like a wall of televisions in the window of an electronics shop. “I found this method to make nude paintings relevant to me partly by zooming in on the genitalia.” I survey them. The crops remind me of aggressive porn zooms – money shots. The works haven’t always been so closely focused on the physical form. “The early ones had more narrative. They would be more unusual situations. I made a painting with a man in China who just stood perfectly still while having his portrait taken for over

‘It tends to attract people who have more unusual sexual tastes’ an hour. We spoke for ages using Google Translate. Another time, a man had this amazing house – usually you don’t see very sumptuous environments. He had a glass dildo on a reflective table and he was sat in this big leather chair. He was putting stockings on and dressing up for me. It was really hot actually.” But, back then, fun was rare. “I think when I first started there was a trauma to making the work. It was almost masochistic the pleasure that I took in subjecting myself to it. Seeing lots of cocks masturbating at you all day does feel like quite an onslaught. But it doesn’t feel like that anymore.” We return to the laptop and resume streaming. “This is a really typical view,” sighs Hempton, nodding to a close crop of a man lying down on his back, the laptop by his side on the bed, his penis pointing straight up in the centre of the shot. She clicks off. The next shot is inky blue and pixelated. It takes a while for a form to emerge – it’s a jean-clad crotch with

a hand slowly caressing over the fabric. Our new subject is in Turkey. He moves the screen up to show his face and a booth is revealed – he’s in an internet café, or an office. He sticks his tongue out and animatedly blows kisses. Occasionally he licks his lips, miming out some wet snog. She steps back, surveying as she squirts out paint. “It’s strange that he thinks that’s attractive.” She’s more interested in the hand. We pogo up and down as he changes the focus of his camera; hand massaging over denim, an undulating tongue and back again. The painting focuses on the erection. She waits patiently, brush in hand, as he attempts to flirt with her face. I question why, this time, she’s not conversing. “He’s not really saying anything to respond to, just ‘Hi and Sex’,” she says. “But sex spelled ‘sekx’.” Three canvases are now complete. Hempton usually does four in a sitting. I mention that neither of the subjects climaxed. “Most of them do come,” she says. “Once, this guy was really into feet and I showed him mine and he ejaculated straight away.” I ponder if some of the men just like the contact – the chance to interact. For many, a relief from loneliness, rather than an orgasm, seems to be the aim. “I don’t think a broad section of society uses this program – it’s not as broad as the dating apps. It tends to attract people who have more unusual sexual tastes; people who want to perform and be watched or are even marginalised by society. This becomes a safe space where they can be anonymous. They can show off, say, their very small penis. Or feel secure even if they’re mentally ill or physically disabled.” She pauses. “A lot of people do just want to jack off. And they see me, and because there aren’t many women on the program they think they can persuade me to get involved. Sometimes, if I have been looking at sexualised imagery all day and a man that is attractive to me comes along, I might get involved. But it is rare. It is important to say that I am not taking a judgemental stance with a fixed position.” I glance back at the wall of screens-cumpaintings. “That is to say, it is rare that the experience is titillating for me,” she adds. “Usually I’m just working.” She begins absent mindedly clicking through the streams. Fresh canvases are stacked close. Men upon men, penis upon penis, limb upon limb flash before us. Some people would screen grab. Celia paints. Lou Stoppard

Let’s talk about sex REC

Celia Hempton uses the website Chat Random to meet men, women and couples from all over the world to inspire her art.

196 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016

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SHAKEN OR STIRRED

EXCELLENT DECISION.


Food & Drink Awards 2016 Revealed: the best chef, restaurant, bar, sommelier, hotel, pub and front of house in the UK PRESENTED BY


L  

adies and gentleman, start making your reservations... the results of the 2016 GQ Food & Drink Awards, presented by Veuve Clicquot, are in! Thousands of you voted, our judging panel deliberated and here are the winners. Being magnanimous, we would argue that all the restaurants, chefs, bars, hotels and pubs who made it on to our shortlist were winners, but only one establishment from each of our ten categories could receive the engraved Waterford Crystal icebucket (left) when all was revealed on the evening of 26 April at 100 Wardour Street in London. The great and the good of the hospitality industry turned out in force to find out where GQ – and you – consider the very best places in the UK to eat, drink and make merry. It may only have been the second year of our Food & Drink Awards, but thanks in no small part to our sponsors Veuve Clicquot and Belvedere Vodka it was even bigger and better than our inaugural celebration. With all that in mind, please join us in raising a glass to all our winners...

Introducing GQ’s panel of experts – leaders in the ields of food and drink, journalism, hospitality and interiors

Mark Hix

Dylan Jones

Jo Thornton

@markehix

@dylanjonesgq

Florence Knight @florence.knight

One of London’s most experienced restaurateurs, after 17 years as chef director at Caprice Holdings, Mark Hix launched the first of his eight restaurants in 2008. He is a Contributing Editor at GQ.

Since Dylan Jones became Editor of GQ, the magazine has won 58 awards. He is also the author of numerous books, the chairman of London Collections Men and has eaten in nearly as many restaurants as Oliver Peyton.

Jo Thornton has spent his career in the luxury drinks industry, starting at Haynes, Hanson & Clark and joining Moët Hennessy – the largest luxury drinks distributor in the UK – in 1993, before becoming managing director in 2010.

Rainer Becker

Gizzi Erskine

Oliver Peyton

Tara Bernerd

Restaurateur Rainer Becker is internationally renowned for Zuma, serving contemporary Japanese cuisine in cities including London, Rome and Hong Kong. Becker also owns three London Roka branches and Oblix at the Shard.

@gizzierskine

@oliverpeyton

@tarabernerd

@matthobbs03

Chef and TV presenter Gizzi Erskine presented Channel 4’s Cook Yourself Thin, as well as Cooks To Market and Drop Down Menu. Erskine likes to make eating fun and hosted pop-ups at Bestival and Latitude festivals.

A restaurateur and judge on Great British Menu, Oliver Peyton is the chairman of hospitality group Peyton And Byrne, which is responsible for bringing fine dining to such arts institutions as the Royal Academy and the ICA.

British designer Tara Bernerd has a wealth of experience when it comes to luxury. Her company, Tara Bernerd & Partners, has worked on everything from five-star hotels and private members’ clubs to superyachts.

Matt Hobbs went into the restaurant business at 15, working his way up to night manager during his seven years at The Ivy. He is now managing director of the legendary Groucho Club.

Winning mentality: Kitty Fisher’s on Shepherd Market; (below) the ‘louche dining’ of the restaurant’s interior; (right) a dish of burrata, beetroot and clementine

Florence Knight was pastry chef at Raymond Blanc’s Diamond Club, before leaving to run Polpetto in 2010. Knight sees food “in filmic terms” and loves the informal, chaotic and family-like environment of a busy kitchen.

200 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016

Matt Hobbs

Words by Eleanor Halls Photographs Getty Images; Ana Lui Photography; Mitch Payne; Rex; Andrew Urwin

THE JUDGES


Best

FOOD & DRINK AWARDS

RESTAURANT Kitty Fisher’s

Kitty Fisher was one of Britain’s most promiscuous young courtesans in the 18th century, so it seemed entirely fitting that three young bucks (Oliver Milburn, Tom Mullion and Tim Steel), whose shared interests include “booze, girls and parties”, would name their first restaurant after her. Opened in 2014, Kitty Fisher’s has very much lived up to its name, providing great food in an informal space, which attracts a regular well-heeled clientele including Nigella Lawson, Damian Lewis and the Camerons. Milburn coined the phrase “louche dining” to describe Kitty Fisher’s cosy, dark and drunken ambience and the phrase has stuck. “At service we have six or seven people here in a really small place, juggling food, drink, bills, customers’ coats and bags, people being drunk, and it’s like a ballet,” says Milburn. The restaurant, nestled in Mayfair’s historic Shepherd Market, serves rich and meaty British dishes with a Spanish twist, such as lamb cutlets with anchovy, duck with rhubarb and monkfish with blood orange and monk’s beard, which judge Dylan Jones described as “extraordinary”. Immediately dubbed the place to be seen, Kitty Fisher’s is giving Chiltern Firehouse a serious run for its money. 10 Shepherd Market, London W1. 020 3302 1661. kittyfishers.com ORunner-up:  The Clove Club Also nominated: The Fat Duck, The Araki, Pollen Street Social, The Kitchin JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 201


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CHEF

GQ’s Chef Of The Year used to be part of a gastronomic rock band. Formed in 2010, the Young Turks were a collective of three super-talented hipster chefs (James Lowe, Ben Greeno and Isaac McHale) who played pop-ups and cooked clever, creative dishes that quickly got them noticed and earned them solo projects where they could express themselves as individual artists. Greeno launched Momofuku Seiobo in Sydney, McHale created Hoxton’s The Clove Club and Lowe set up the outstanding Lyle’s (named after his grandmother) in the Tea Building in Shoreditch. “I didn’t start cooking until I was 23,” Lowe says. “But a ten-year apprenticeship at La Trompette, The Fat Duck and ultimately St John Bread & Wine brought me here.” In the two years since Lyle’s opened, the reviews have been glowing, boundaries are being pushed and a Michelin star has been won. “James is a master of ingredients who produces perfectly balanced menus,” said one GQ judge. “And he isn’t afraid of simplicity; he does that better than anyone,” added another. We couldn’t agree more. Tea Building, 56 Shoreditch High Street, London E1. 020 3011 5911. lyleslondon.com 202 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016

ORunner-up: Skye Gyngell (Spring) Also nominated: Sat Bains (Restaurant Sat Bains), Marcus Wareing (Marcus), James Knappett (Kitchen Table), Robin Gill (The Dairy)

Photographs Per-Anders Jorgensen; Instagram/@lyleslondon

James Lowe Lyle’s


Hot thing: Once part of the famed Young Turks trio, James Lowe has made his name alone at Lyle’s since it opened in April 2014; (below) a Lyle’s pizza party

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FOOD & DRINK AWARDS

INTERIOR Chiltern Firehouse

You might think it’s all about who’s who at hotelier André Balazs’ celebrity haunt Chiltern Firehouse, but the beautiful people wouldn’t go if it didn’t look as good as they do. Created in 2013 from a Victorian fire station, the interior structure was designed by Archer Humphryes Architects to stay true to the original design and maintain the building’s gothic feel. Once beyond the large firehouse gates, guests are ushered through a

closed courtyard sprinkled with al fresco tables and twinkling tea lights towards the restaurant, designed by Paris-based studio KO, located in the fire station’s original appliance shed. A large open kitchen and a woven canvas ceiling fuse refinement with warmth that continues through to the Ladder Shed bar, the most coveted location in the building. Here, guests sink into deep, custom-made wicker chairs which flank the

mahogany-panelled fireplace, admiring Salvador Dalí’s melting clocks, the over-hanging foliage and gold pineapple lamps, while their feet nuzzle beneath the threads of a gloriously thick purple and gold floral carpet. Described by judge Tara Bernerd as channelling “a chic, bygone era made current and savvy”, Chiltern Firehouse is a worthy victor. 1 Chiltern Street, London W1. 020 7073 7676. chilternfirehouse.com

ORunner-up: Spring Also nominated: Sexy Fish, Cahoots, Casa Cruz, The Ivy

Ring the bell: The dining area of Chiltern Firehouse, backed by the restaurant’s elegant bar

JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 000


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SOMMELIER Model of good taste: Ruth Spivey was described by our judges as having a ‘youthful, cutting-edge, fun attitude to wine’

Ruth Spivey Craft London And the best sommelier goes to... a former model. Now, you’ll probably be expecting us to tell you what a beautiful bouquet she has; how full-bodied and yet charming and complex, right? Well, you’d be wrong. Despite spending ten years on the fashion circuit, Spivey is deadly serious about wine. After working with Anthony Demetre and Will Smith at Arbutus and Wild Honey, Spivey worked as a wine buyer and took her Wine And Spirit Trust qualifications, finally going freelance in 2013. Spivey established a pop-up wine bar called Street Vin, created the incredibly popular biannual Wine Car Boot and is one of the most sought-after consultants in the trade. She is currently spreading the word in Rotorino and Craft London. Craft London, Peninsula Square, Greenwich Peninsula, London SE10. 020 8465 5910. ORunner-up:  Michael Simms (Sartoria) Also nominated: Jan Konetzki (Gordon Ramsay), Stefan Neumann (Dinner By Heston Blumenthal), Laurent Richet (Restaurant Sat Bains), Eva Dieudonné (Les 110 De Taillevent) 204 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016


FOOD & DRINK AWARDS

Best

Country life (clockwise from top left): Inside The Sportsman; slow-braised shoulder of lamb; the pub’s exterior; salmagundi; The Sportsman from across the misty Kent marshes; hake fillet with bouillabaisse and tapenade

PUB

Photograph Thegaztronome

The Sportsman On its Twitter feed, The Sportsman in Seasalter describes itself as a “grotty rundown pub by the sea”. It doesn’t mention that it has a Michelin star, that the brilliantly talented chef/proprietor Stephen Harris is self-taught, or that all the ingredients on the menu are locally sourced. Then again, it doesn’t need to, because the award-winning pub has plenty of devotees to sing its praises. “It has the most exemplary food, yet it remains reasonably priced” was one of the descriptions our judges gave. Another said, “The food is simple yet memorable, with local seafood and a daily changing menu.” With the choice of both an á la carte and a tasting menu available, guests to be as indulgent as they feel, safe in the knowledge that whatever they order will have

been caught in the Thames estuary, grown in the pub’s back garden or reared on one of the neighbouring farms. A thousand years ago, the area around Seasalter was considered the breadbasket of England and the larder to Canterbury Cathedral... In 2016, it has been narrowed down to one pub. Faversham Road, Seasalter, Whitstable CT5 4BP. 01227 273 370. thesportsmanseasalter.co.uk ORunner-up:  The Hind’s Head (Berkshire) Also nominated: The Coach (Marlow), The Punchbowl (London), The Harwood Arms (London), The Cross Keys (London) JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 000


G Partnership

MOËT PARTY DAY 11 JUNE 2016 150+ MOËT PARTIES AND BOTTLE OPENINGS ACROSS UK BARS #MOETMOMENT

Sparkling form: The perfect companion for celebration, Moët & Chandon is at home at the world’s finest parties

LIVE IN THE MOMENT Spontaneity has always been at the heart of the iconic

Moët & Chandon – and little has changed, with 11 June

the perfect day to celebrate and, naturally, raise a glass THOUGHT the 24-Hours of Le Mans was famous merely for the endurance of its racers? Think again. While France’s Circuit de la Sarthe has played host to the world’s best motorsport since 1923, it was more than 40 years later when racing’s most recognisable tradition was born. That was the winner’s champagne spray – now a regular sight on podiums around the world – a spontaneous, living-in-the-moment celebration from 1967 Le Mans victors Dan Gurney and AJ Foyt. Their exuberance epitomised exactly what Moët & Chandon is about: a welcome touch of joie de vivre in everything we do and everywhere we go. Now on a mission to celebrate life’s more ordinary moments, Moët & Chandon is dedicating 11 June to help people “live in the now”, just like Gurney and Foyt. Whether celebrating your latest milestone or shrugging off a busy week, it won’t be hard to find a cause for celebration. Parties will be taking place nationwide on 11 June, as bars and restaurants across the UK will be serving up bottles of Moët & Chandon Impérial, Ice Impérial and Rosé Impérial and hosting spontaneous bottle openings for customers to celebrate in style. Whether you’re spraying Moët & Chandon like a Le Mans winner or sipping a chilled glass, this champagne continues to define spontaneity, celebration and, of course, living in the moment. uk.moet.com

RAISING THE BAR Discover the places to be (and be seen) on 11 June

Bottling it: Restaurants, hotels and bars across the UK will be hosting spontaneous bottle openings of Moët & Chandon on 11 June

Naturally, a world-leading champagne demands a fitting set of venues. So on 11 June, three of the UK’s most luxurious venues pay homage to Moët & Chandon's illustrious history. Firstly, Leeds' ANGELICA (1) will be serving up chilled glasses of Moët & Chandon alongside rooftop views of the city. Head north, and you'll find THE CORINTHIAN CLUB (2) in Glasgow flying the flag for Moët & Chandon in Scotland, with bottle openings for lucky guests. Meanwhile, in the capital, London's ME HOTEL (3) offers a slice of luxury moments away from The Thames at The Strand, with spectacular panoramic views from ME’s Roof Bar.

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FOOD & DRINK AWARDS

Best

BAR

Happiness Forgets

In partnership with Belvedere Vodka... “Great cocktails, no wallies,” is the mantra fuelling the success of Hoxton’s favourite nocturnal spot, Happiness Forgets, which gets its name from the first line of a Dionne Warwick song: “Loneliness remembers what happiness forgets.” Since Alastair Burgess opened this tiny subterranean venue in 2011, it has become so popular that a free table is a rare gem to come by. Blink and you’ll miss it – this speakeasy-style haunt coaxes you down to its bowels with large lettering spelled across its wooden steps. Soft candlelight from small, tightly packed tables flickers across blood-red wallpaper, creating an intimacy that attracts small groups of friends and fun-loving couples. Here, expert mixologists abide by old-school rules – no frills, no fuss and nothing’s off menu; simply name your poison. But it would be a shame to ignore their own concoctions, which include the GQ recommended trio: Perfect Storm, Tokyo Collins and Part-Time Model. “Adventurous”, “Cool” and “surprising” were some of the words used by our judges to describe Happiness Forgets. One thing’s for sure, this is a bar you won’t forget – happy or otherwise. 8-9 Hoxton Square, London N1. 020 7613 0325. happinessforgets.com

OR  unner-up – Claridge’s Also nominated: Dandelyan, Bramble Bar, The Blind Pig, The Punch Room

Photographs Andrew Urwin

The pursuit of Happiness (clockwise from top): A Privateer; the sign at the bottom of the stairs on Hoxton Square; the bar, at which the menu changes every week

JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 207


FOOD & DRINK AWARDS

The Pig On The Beach

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Rambling staircases, yellow-painted turrets, thatched dovecotes and stuffed puffins are what lend The Pig On The Beach its fairytale delight and idiosyncratic charm; a charm that attracts scores of visitors to its sleepy seaside shores. Perched on the Dorset cliffs within a picturesque hamlet overlooking Studland Bay’s crescent of golden sand, The Pig offers some of the UK’s best views and countryside for an upscale weekend retreat, with a National Trust coastal path running alongside it. The hotel’s interior matches the windswept, sandy scruffiness of its 16thcentury exterior, with shabby-chic rooms boasting sea views, grand four-poster beds and freestanding bathtubs as well as intimate shepherd’s huts for private couples. Judges aptly described the hotel as offering, “Homely style chic with a mellow feel.” As well as spectacular views, the crown jewel of Robin Hutson’s string of four successful boutique hotels also offers superb food, served in the quirky Victorian-style Conservatory restaurant peppered with herb pots and watering cans. Dishes, such as fresh, salty Dorset-landed fish, always include something from The Pig’s kitchen garden and are all sourced from within 25 miles. With 1,100 room bookings processed within 24 hours of Hutson’s latest piglet opening its doors, The Pig is one of the most sought-after hotels across all the land. Manor House, Manor Road, Studland, Dorset BH19. 01929 450 288. thepighotel.com

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ORunner-up:  Rosewood London Also nominated: The Scarlet, Ace Hotel London Shoreditch, Soho Farmhouse, The Chester Residence

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RESTAURATEUR

Jason Atherton 208 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016

To give you an idea about what makes Jason Atherton such a successful restaurateur, you need only look at his most recent opening. When it launched last month, Sosharu became Atherton’s eighth London restaurant since the debut of his first (Pollen Street Social) five years ago (or his 16th worldwide if you

include his places in New York, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Dubai and Australia) and yet the 44-year-old was so determined to make it a success, he paid for his executive head chef Alex Craciun to spend a year travelling and working in Japan to develop his knowledge of izakaya cooking and an additional six months

perfecting the menu. brilliant, with edgy but It was Atherton’s first excellent execution.” time focusing on His drive for success, non-European cuisine attention to detail and and he was going to get impeccable standards it right… because he make Atherton a always gets it right. worthy winner. As GQ’s judging panel made clear, “Jason ORunner-up:  continues to expand a Karam Sethi brand while keeping the Also nominated: quality high.” He delivers George Bukhov, a dining experience that Richard Caring, is, “Consistently Alan Yau, Will Beckett


G Partnership

THINGS JUST GOT COOLER Tradition, with a twist: Veuve Clicquot RICH is changing how we’re drinking champagne with its unique set of garnishes

Perfect serve: Veuve Clicquot worked with professional mixologists to develop this new approach Switching it up: Versatile, sweet and refreshing, Veuve Clicquot RICH is quickly becoming a must-have base for cocktails

Fancy a tipple? Of course, every world-renowned champagne needs a venue and Veuve Clicquot’s RICH is no different. It all starts at boutique London teahouse, Sketch, where signature cocktail RICH Tea (a refreshing mix of Earl Grey and Madagascan vanilla) headlines, with its unique take on champagne mixology. At Aqua Shard and Aqua Nueva, after-work cocktails will be flowing, ideal for those looking to take the edge off the day. Regent Street’s Café Royal – having recently transformed to an all-desserts restaurant by executive chef Sarah Barber – will also be featuring RICH drink pairings from 6pm to 10:30pm daily.

VEUVE CLICQUOT is about to reboot the champagne game, with a new and contemporary approach to mixing one of the world’s most celebrated drinks. Cue Veuve Clicquot RICH, the latest member of this powerhouse from Reims, designed to be served with a unique set of fresh ingredients (think, grapefruit or Earl Grey tea), with each guaranteeing a unique taste twist. The journey of RICH starts in the 1800s, where a sweeter style was the norm and - even though regular methods have changed since - it offers a welcome nod to where it all began. The possibilities are perfect for experimentation and refreshingly simple, too: grab some ice, choose your garnish (strained Earl Grey tea is a particular favourite) and top with Veuve Clicquot RICH. Simple, stunning and delicious. veuve-clicquot.com


Italian master: Giorgio Locatelli in his Locanda Locatelli in Marylebone, London, 25 February 2016

LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT 210 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016


FOOD & DRINK AWARDS

Photographs Olly Burn; Rex; Andrew Urwin Grooming Chloe Botting using Bumble And Bumble

The man who introduced Michelin-starred Italian cooking to the UK – first at Zafferano, and since 2002 Locanda Locatelli – has resisted temptation (multiple sites, bottled sauces), faced near-ruin (the chef patron was forced to temporarily close the Marylebone restaurant when an explosion ripped through his kitchen in 2014) and introduced a generation to his homeland (in his TV travelogues with art historian Andrew Graham-Dixon) in a career that’s taken the 52-year-old from his birthplace in the Italian Lakes to the pinnacle of his profession. He triumphed in the city he calls home – with a David Collins-designed power room within the Hyatt Regency that exudes the kind of hushed authority that continues to define top-flight dining. With his wife, Plaxy, Locanda Locatelli has reopened and is ready for another chapter in its owner’s sainted, but never sated, life. Here, in his own words, is how he got here... It’s incredible how popular it’s become to be a chef. When I was young in the Eighties, it was very different. The chefs were drunk, mad bastards; there were very few who were charismatic. Europe looked longer and bigger then. I remember going to the bank to get some money to go to England, and the man there thought it was hilarious. “They are crazy. They eat chocolate with mint!” He thought that was the worst thing. There was the idea you either went through France or you went through the big hotels. The Savoy was a very special place; Escoffier had worked there and I arrived at the perfect moment. Anton Edelmann was doing very well, so I did very well. It was very weird because there weren’t many Italians in the kitchen. There was an old butcher and that was it. So to become a sous chef was amazing for me. It was still very important for an Italian chef to work in [French] haute cuisine. I took a big cut in wages because I thought the job wouldn’t be complete without it. But it was horrible. The first job was OK, but the chef changed and I couldn’t stand it so I left. The second job I really hated completely. London is a city that makes you feel that after six months you are a Londoner. Paris, you can stay there six lives and you’re still a f***ing immigrant. Once upon a time a restaurant was scary. There was an etiquette, but that has all changed. I went to Sexy Fish and the whole thing was a completely different experience. We don’t even have music. We count on the conviviality and the joy of the people.

There were some Michelin-starred French chefs working in hotels, but not Italians. We were the first to establish that. Gordon Ramsay opened in Claridge’s after us. I just wanted to dig in and try and express my experience of Sicily over the last 20 years. We went every summer for a month after our daughter was born and the captive audience here really took it on. That was the moment people began to look at Italy as a truly regional cuisine. Our major thing was when Madonna would eat here. Three or four times a week. It was really good. We weren’t for her the sort of place where she wanted to get her picture taken. We were her local. I think the two most impressive figures [in UK cuisine] are Marco Pierre White and Jamie Oliver. Two different types in our profession – Marco was more inspirational to people in the sector, he was an industry animal; Jamie is more like a media event. But both established one thing that a chef should be – or a modern chef should be. I have great admiration for the chef who does the eight-hour shift at the hospital. Because that’s a job. If it’s done with passion, then it shows. I’ve seen the restaurant become more of an institution. But the law of the market is still that the restaurant stays open if it makes money to pay everybody and pays its rent. If it doesn’t then there’s no point. If I ended up living anywhere else, I’d still be running a restaurant. It’s a nice business to be in: you get paid at the end of each day and if someone is annoying you you can still tell them to f*** off. I can tell almost anybody what I think all the time. Massimo Bottura is the legitimisation of Italian chefs all over the world. He comes from the Ducasse school. Those guys are clever. The guys I worked with in Paris were not as clever as that. They were idiots. Imagine if I had the chance to work with [Ducasse]... My career would have been very different. The best piece of advice I’ve ever ignored? “Giorgio, you need a contract, you can’t do that with a handshake.” From my wife. But who’s got time? The fact is the restaurant is full every night, you’ve got success; you don’t need the other shit. A “trade secret” doesn’t exist in our business. Because it’s important that you devolve as much as you can to make yourself more famous. That is why you write a book. There are a lot of compromises, but it’s a lot of fun to work with people. Interview by Bill Prince

Locanda Locatelli, 8 Seymour Street, London W1. 020 7935 9088. locandalocatelli.com

On the front line: Beef sirloin, onion and pickled walnut at Kitty Fisher’s

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Giorgio Locatelli

FRONT OF HOUSE

Tom Mullion Kitty Fisher’s You can’t shake a first impression. Remember that head waiter who refused to look you in the eye, muttered bitterly under his breath after every order and whose expression forecast unrelenting doom? Of course, how could you not – his surly smile has remained lodged in your brain forever more and his restaurant has remained eternally blacklisted. That’s why front of house is possibly the most challenging and crucial component of any restaurant – with the right charm, any culinary disaster, complaint or tardiness can be swept under the carpet within moments. For Tom Mullion, who opened Kitty Fisher’s along with chums Oliver Milburn and Tim Steel – nothing could be easier. Former actor, cofounder of bowling chain All Star Lanes and son of two restaurateurs, Mullion has a wealth of experience to bring to the table, including his parents’ country cottage, at which the three young men often hosted parties. Mullion’s success, which judge Matt Hobbs attributes to his “humour and charm” has got him itching to open more restaurants: “I think I’ve found my calling.” So do we. 10 Shepherd Market, London W1. 020 3302 1661. kittyfishers.com ORunner-up:  Jason Tesoriere (The Wolseley) Also nominated: David Boyd (Aqua Shard), Juanito Asencio (Chiltern Firehouse), Sonal Clare (Purnell’s), Mourad Ben Tekfa (Belmond Le Manoir Aux Quat’Saisons)


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FOOD & DRINK AWARDS

OVERALL EXPERIENCE The Wolseley

It is hard to believe that Chris Corbin and Jeremy King’s grand café-restaurant – a landmark London institution since opening in 2003 – hasn’t been in situ for 100 years. And yet in its previous lives the site on Piccadilly was a car showroom, a branch of Barclays Bank and by all accounts a pretty appalling Chinese restaurant. After that, The Wolseley’s example of modern European glamour is a truly welcome incarnation. “It is the quintessential English experience,” said one GQ judge. “The atmosphere is electric at any time of day,” agreed another. From breakfast at 7am through to supper at midnight, whenever you dine at The Wolseley you are guaranteed a sense of occasion. Another of GQ’s panel summed it up: “The Wolseley is the best friend that never lets you down.” 160 Piccadilly, London W1. 020 7499 6996. thewolseley.com OR  unner-up: The Ivy Also nominated: Mr Foggs, Pollen Street Social, Sketch, The Nightjar

212 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016


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Broken promise: Russell Crowe joins Ryan Gosling for a disco-era romp

NO MORE MR VICE GUY

OPEN SECRET Kim Basinger – playing the mother of a kidnap victim – reunites with Crowe for the first time since 1997’s LA Confidential.

The Nice Guys Ryan Gosling as a Seventies private investigator with a range of loud shirts and a tache. Russell Crowe as the hired thug he teams up with. In short: what’s not to love? Writer-director Shane Black follows up Kiss Kiss Bang Bang and Iron Man 3 with his third directorial effort, a Coen Brothers-esque romp through a disco-era LA world of kidnappings and mob entanglements where they’re tasked to recover a girl gone missing. Ryan: welcome back to films we actually want to watch. STUART McGURK out on 3 june

Sport, Books, Poetry, Art, Music, TV and the best opinion for the month ahead...

JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK

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DOES BREXIT MEAN EXIT FOR YOUR BEST PLAYER? A ‘leave’ vote in the EU referendum could have serious implications for the Premier League – and not just because it will change the status of our European superstars STORY BY

Martin Samuel

e will probably never get to the bottom of what the Queen really thinks about Brexit. We know the views of a baroness, however. Karren Brady, vice-chairman of West Ham United and a Conservative peer, is against it. She made that perfectly plain in a letter sent out to all football clubs earlier this year. Lady Brady – not her real title, but even she admits it’s more fun – predicted catastrophe for football if Britain left the European Union. Favourite players would become undesirable aliens, work permits would be harder to come by and English clubs could not move as quickly in the European marketplace, tied up in red tape. She has been travelling the country with this message, warning fans in the northeast of the players they would lose were Britain not in the EU. Looking at the state of the teams at Sunderland and Newcastle, some might call that a blessing. Certainly the 6,000 jobs at Nissan – a company backing the Remain campaign – would be a bigger loss to Sunderland than midfielder Jeremain Lens. But Brady points out that fans would suffer too, with increased flight and visa costs on trips to European fixtures. Not much of a worry for Newcastle or Sunderland there, either – but they can dream. Who would have thought Leicester City fans would one day need passports? So it’s a pretty grim picture for fans – but then the Remain strategy is to continue painting pretty grim

W

We’d still get the cream, but not the dross... This is wildly optimistic

216 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016

pictures. Rising prices, unemployment, a collapsing economy – their default position is to leap out and shout boo. Still, nothing wrong with that. The guy on the hunting trip who says, “Watch out for bears” isn’t scaremongering – as long as there are bears. Certainly, a real chance of economic downturn represents a more convincing argument than some dinner party gossip where Her Maj gets her pearls in a twist over sovereignty. So whether you think your life is better with Fabio Borini in it, or you’ve spent several days studying the latest 86-page report from the Centre For European Reform, we’ve all got our own reasons for “in” or “out”. Mine involve the price of eggs on an east London poultry stall in 1955 and the mathematical abilities of the former education secretary, but you might just want West Ham to sign another Dimitri Payet. Don’t be embarrassed. Nobody’s judging. The poultry stall was in Bethnal Green High Road and owned by my grandfather. My father went to work for him at 15 and, having better penmanship, wrote the elaborate price-tickets you see in the best butchers’ windows, all thick lines and shading. For that reason, he remembers precisely what a dozen eggs cost on


Illustration Ben Jennings Photographs Getty Images; Rex

KASPER SCHMEICHEL Leicester City (Danish)

that first day: eight shillings. The average wage was £7. The present average weekly wage is £509.61. At that rate, a dozen eggs should now cost £29.25. They actually cost £1.75. Green card: Nobody is saying you will pay 30 quid Could a Brexit see our MVPs for eggs if Britain goes it alone, but heading for the the European Common Market has VIP departure lounge? undoubtedly helped keep the weekly shopping bill down. A leading supporter of Brexit is Michael Gove, and that’s another problem. If it’s Brady versus Gove on maths, back Brady every time. She is the person who negotiated a deal to move West Ham from the Boleyn Ground to the Olympic Stadium that was so good the government has been answering questions ever since. Gove was the education secretary who couldn’t do twos. He abandoned January retakes, moving exams to the summer term. So twice the exams. Except Gove didn’t have twice the examiners. So overextended boards ended up with science teachers marking geography papers from cheat lists and the biggest number of successful appeals against grades ever recorded. People think Gove left education because he fell foul of an army of academics, bureaucrats and unions he nicknamed “The Blob”. In all likelihood, the last conversation of his tenure probably went like this. “Michael, it’s twos, mate. We can’t have an education secretary who can’t do twos. If it was eights, sure, we’d cut you some slack. We all have a bit of a problem with eights. But twos? We’re sorry but you’ve got to go.” Gove’s Leave campaign would no doubt dismiss Brady’s stance as further scaremongering. And they’re right: in all likelihood, your best player wouldn’t be deported, David de Gea wouldn’t be on the first plane to Madrid and it is highly possible that a reciprocal employment agreement could be made with the EU nations. So, yes, Remain might be trying to put a bat up everybody’s nightshirt over Brexit, but the other side to Project Fear is Project Fantasy. The idea that nothing will alter or simply get better is equally fanciful. The Brexit case in football is that if the Home Office placed the same restriction on EU citizens as exists for nationals of South America or Africa, then that would benefit the England team by limiting the number of foreign players taking the places of young locals. We’d still get the cream – Sergio Agüero, Philippe Coutinho or Riyad Mahrez – runs the argument, but not the dross. This is wildly optimistic. For a start, a lot of South Americans and Africans speak Spanish, Portuguese or French, meaning England currently does not seem such an alien environment because shared languages populate the dressing rooms. If those numbers were cut post-Brexit, the Premier League would be viewed as an increasingly cold destination. Brady might present her ideas in pure business terms, but this is a human issue, too. The future of nations is in alliances. Why would Britain, at this of all moments, wish to build a wall against continental Europe? Even if your new French striker couldn’t hit a vache’s derriere with a banjo, you may want to think twice about Brexit.

GRAZIANO PELLÈ Southampton (Italian)

DIMITRI PAYET West Ham Utd (French)

DEEP FREEZE Don DeLillo’s latest resurrection is a chilling tale of finance, family and death STORY BY

BREMAIN

Continental drift: for and against GQ calls the European imports we’d be sorry to lose and those we may not be so sad to see the back of

BREXIT

DIEGO COSTA Chelsea (Spanish)

JESÚS NAVAS Manchester CIty (Spanish)

MAROUANE FELLAINI Manchester Utd (Belgian)

LITERARY myth has it that the American novelist Don DeLillo has two files of ideas on his writing table – one marked “Art” and one marked “Terror”. The two collide perfectly in his new book Zero K, which carefully distils elements of familial drama, psychological thriller and science fiction into a spare yet haunting novel. “If writing is a form of thinking,” DeLillo told the Paris Review in 1993, “then the most concentrated writing ends in some kind of reflection on dying. This is what we eventually confront if we think long enough and hard enough.” More than 20 years later the result is a major literary event, a novel involving cryogenics that’s up there with DeLillo at his best. In the first sentence his antihero father, Ross Lockhart, tells his son, “Everybody wants to own the end of the world.” There’s no plot spoiler in telling you that Lockhart Sr is both absent – skipping parenting in favour of occasional visits to the Museum Of Natural History – and now looming far too present, a giant ego of a man who doesn’t envisage his mastery of the universe ending with death. Presented by his mild son, Jeffrey, Ross Lockhart is reminiscent of the American businessman-father described by the poet James Merrill (whose father founded the famous bank) in “The Broken Home”.

Olivia Cole “Time was money in those days,” wrote Merrill of Wall Street. “When he died / There were already several chilled wives.” Lockhart Sr’s desire to hang on to his youth is far more extreme and far chillier than the need to keep trading in his women for younger models, though he does this too. Ross (never Dad) has Jeffrey’s stepmother, Artis, but he also has his eye on the biggest prize of all. The work of a company called Convergence is presented coolly as extreme logic: the ultimate luxury being the chance to buy into a scheme to freeze the dying and wake them when science catches up. In a country where healthcare is such a vexed question, why shouldn’t the management of death also be the preserve of the wealthy? Or something to avoid, like tax? But money isn’t time and neither, DeLillo argues, should it ever be. He calls Jeffrey’s mother, Ross’s first wife, Madeline, which can’t be an accidental Proustian moment. Simultaneously terrifying yet beautifully told with a real tenderness for the everyday details of life in New York, Zero K is not a sprawling epic like 1997’s Underworld, but, like the best kind of writing, it’s a little man-made piece of earthly glory – consolation of a kind, and certainly not to be missed. Zero K by

Don DeLillo (Picador, £16.99) is out on 10 May. JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 217


FLASH POINT From all-out war to more covert battlefronts, Don McCullin has shot conflicts all over the world. Speaking to GQ, he shares stories from photography’s deadliest field STORY BY

Ger Tierney

t’s a nice title,” says Don McCullin of his latest honorific, master of photography at this month’s Photo London fair, “but I’m really still a student. I’m learning all the time. I make mistakes.” Anyway, the 80year-old says, “If you think you’ve arrived you’ve lost it. You must always be challenging yourself. I’ll never be a master; I’m a practitioner.” A practitioner, nevertheless, who broke out of his bleak post-war surroundings in Finsbury Park, north London, to become one of the great documentary photographers of our time. “It’s quite addictive really,” he says of a life that’s frequently led him into harm’s way. “I want to do things. I still have a curiosity. I went to Iraq last year. I was with a militia group who were attacking an oil rig. There were bombs flying overhead; it was quite exciting. We had to get down a street where lots of snipers were trying to take us out and this guy said to me, ‘You’ve really got to run this bit,’ and I said, ‘I don’t run...’” McCullin says he’s got through it all by separating himself. “I’m looking at the most terrible things that shouldn’t be happening, but I have to remember the reason I’m there. You can’t stop it. You want Photographs © Don McCullin, courtesy of Hamiltons Gallery, London; Getty Images

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to, but the people who’ve got the guns, they’re in control, and you see their hatred kicking in. I’ve witnessed people being murdered right in front of me, but I knew what my priorities were: I’ve got to do this right, I’ve got to take this away with me back to England and persuade the editors to use this picture big because we can’t let people miss what’s going on. At the same time, I had to try and stay alive, as I had a family.” After a life spent putting himself in potentially fatal situations, McCullin muses on the fates of those who haven’t been as lucky as him. “A lot of my friends have been killed in war but I don’t weep over it because they knew the odds. There’s no immunity because you carry a camera.” Surveying the images reproduced on these pages, McCullin says much of his work has been based on intuition. “Why did I go to Berlin in 1961? There were voices, you know? ‘Berlin: that seems to be the place.’ I’ve always had this kind of intuition that tells me if I went there, I would be ahead of the game.” In the noughties this same intuition took him to Syria to document Roman-era antiquities. Since his project, Isis has been destroying the temples he photographed in Palmyra. “It’s strange,” McCullin says, “that somebody like me with no education takes on a project like that. Why did I do it? Where did it come from?” The rest, it seems, is down to that drive to keep going. “I don’t want to just wait and die. I’m not trying to hide my age, but I don’t see why I should conform to it. My father died when he was 40 and I was angry. I wanted to appease his death by making his name mean something and I think I might have done that.” Don McCullin will be in conversation with Simon Baker, curator of international art photography at Tate Modern, for Photo London on 19 May. photolondon.org

My New Neighbours, Fonthill Road, Finsbury Park, 1958 “Finsbury Park was a battlefield when I was a boy, but it taught me about life very early on,” says McCullin. “How to stand on my own two feet, how to protect myself and how to fight of would-be assailants. I’ve always grown up with the confidence that I can fight my way out of anything.”

Seven Sisters Road, London, 1958 McCullin’s initial break came from his photographs of notorious street gang The Guvnors in a derelict building – this image is from the same period. The pictures were eventually published after one of the gang was executed for the murder of a policeman. JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 219


Near Checkpoint Charlie, Berlin, 1961 “They were building the wall with what builders in this country call breeze blocks. They were just slamming it up quickly. They were good at walling of cities; they did it in the Warsaw Ghetto. They knew how to put a wall around people they didn’t want to let in. “Berlin is a city that has always held my imagination. There is a good energy there; it’s struggling to overpower the bad energy that was there in 1961, which you can see in this picture. You could still feel that; you could smell the death of the war lingering in those destroyed buildings.”

Shell-Shocked Marine, Hue, Vietnam, 1968

Christian Woman With Hand Grenade, Holiday Inn, Beirut, 1976

“This beautiful woman is throwing a hand grenade into the next hotel in Beirut,” McCullin recalls of this shot from a series documenting the civil war in Lebanon. “She told me her father said, ‘I’ve got five sons, I don’t need another.’ She was the only girl in the family and she became a militiawoman.”

You could still feel that, could smell the death of the war lingering in those destroyed buildings

220 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016

Photographs © Don McCullin, courtesy of Hamiltons Gallery, London

Taken during a battle for the city of Hue, this image would go on to encapsulate the human cost of the Vietnam War. McCullin says he shot five frames of the unknown American soldier traumatised by combat; they all show the same haunting, glazed-over look.


East Germans Looking Into The West, Berlin, 1961 “I used to work at the Observer, and I rang them up and said I was going to Berlin. They said, ‘We’re not interested,’ which was shocking because Berlin was the story. I paid for my own ticket and arrived at Hitler’s airport, Tempelhof. When I got back, the Observer used the pictures and I won an award for them. So they sent me back there.”

Protester, Cuban Missile Crisis, Whitehall, London, 1963

Although he is mainly known for his images from foreign conflicts, McCullin has also captured unease at events on home soil. Although tormented by what he witnessed over the years, he openly admits that he became addicted to war; this image of an antiwar protester during the American-Cuban nuclear standoff offers an unusual juxtaposition to his field reportage.


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Helly Nahmad (above, left), famous for hanging with DiCaprio, hails from a gallery-owning family worth billions in Picasso, Calder and many more.

‘THE SKY IS FALLING. OR IS IT?’ Alberto (Tico) Mugrabi, from a dynastic family said to own up to 800 Warhols.

Jerry Saltz, the people’s proselytiser of all things art. Also happens to be vehemently against the mingling of money and art. Kelly Crow, the Wall Street Journal’s art market reporter, endlessly slags away at the fate of the market.

Kenny Schachter

You can never discount passion for culture Damned it be to the naysaying vultures There’s the wicked drama of mama Kusama Who cast her nets as wide as Obama The abject animals of troubled Mike Kelley Blaze a hole of sadness deep in your belly Bulls still run for Wools, mingle with Stingels Tingle with joy every record that’s jingled Richter, Lawler, Nauman and Gober Kruger, Sherman... it will never be over.

Christopher Wool, who’s text painting “Apocalypse Now”, lifted from the Coppola film, sold for $30 million. German powerhouse painter Gerhard Richter, 84, has sold above $40m, and the fervid collecting of his works probably won’t stop until the prices match his age in millions. Photographs Alamy; Getty Images; Rex

POEM BY

Double, double toil and trouble; Art gets burnt in auction bubble. Fillet a Tico, and Aby, maybe But Helly and Larry? No way, baby Into the caldron boil and bake; Katya and Reyburn drag their market rake Saltz’s salt in the eye of a newt As the Crow crows with the Journal’s boot Bloomberg and the New York Times Because they don’t do it, missed the signs For a charm of powerful trouble, There you had the flipper’s bubble

Katya Kazakina, art market reporter for Bloomberg, recently cast a pall over art market prospects for coming months.

Barbara Kruger created graphic text and images, with stark white letters set in strips of red rectangular blocks.

Song Of The Art Witches: A poetical parody of the madness of the fine-art market, had Shakespeare ventured into advertising...

Double, double toil and trouble; Art survives alleged bubble. Before it’s revealed, it won’t be long Collectively they sang the very wrong song Since it came off the walls of caves Art and the market will see another day

Louise Lawler is an American artist famous for photographing other artists’ work. She tracks art in its post-production journey and has a major upcoming exhibition at New York’s Moma PS1 later this year.

Cindy Sherman, world-renowned for photographing herself in diferent guises, from Hollywood ingénues to writhing in puddles of vomit. All in the name of art that collectors gobble up for millions.

Bruce Nauman, American master of droll installations, videos and sculptures. He has a retrospective coming up at Moma in September 2018, and his works are wildly sought.

Aby Rosen, German-born real estate magnate that adorns his New York properties, such as Lever House and the Seagram Building, with art. Larry Gagosian, the meta mega maestro of the art market, with galleries in every time zone so there is always one open somewhere.

Scott Reyburn writes about the art market for the International New York Times and is a near socialistic doomsayer.

Yayoi Kusama, the unstoppable 87-year-old Japanese dot painter extraordinaire, is fast climbing the charts at Sotheby’s and Christie’s with pieces selling for many millions.

Mike Kelley was an American artist who committed suicide in 2012 aged 57. He pasted dejected materials onto boards for an exhibition called Memory Ware Flats. Rudolf Stingel, Italian-born New Yorkbased painter, another Gagosianite. With a record sale shy of $5m, he’s the smart collector’s fast track choice to ascend to even higher levels.

Robert Gober has already had a career survey of his work at Moma. His eerie severed wax leg sculptures, some clothed, others hairy and nude, are riveting.

JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 223


STORY BY

Dylan Jones

THESE days, rock’n’roll memoirs are as ubiquitous as Uber cars and it seems not a month goes by without another one clogging up the lobby of your local Waterstones. The publishing industry has started to understand that the golden age of pop is reaching its end, so best get its custodians to tell their stories while they are still alive. Two of the best ones recently have been Dave Stewart’s Sweet Dreams Are Made Of This: A Life In Music and Tom Jones’ Over The Top And Back. Stewart’s book came about when he became an advisor to Bertelsmann, which owns Random House... “So I was up in the Penguin offices in New York, and although everyone had always said I should write my memoirs, the people at Penguin actually asked me if I could do it. And I thought if there was ever a time to say yes then this is it.” Inspired by Bob Dylan’s Chronicles, Stewart pinballs around his life, going backwards when he traditionally likes to move forward, using old family photographs as prompts and conjuring a fascinating tale in the process. “I learned a lot about my childhood and the longer I looked at my formative

years, I remembered so many triggers for me to be a musician. You’re always looking for things that cause a spark, but you can’t believe that everything is an accident. Hearing Rodgers and Hammerstein records on my dad’s stereo probably did it for me. If I hadn’t found a guitar, I would have been a drug addict.” Tom Jones’ Over The Top And Back is far more linear, and rather less transparent. The autobiography was criticised by the Daily Mail for failing to mention the many women Jones has slept with over the years, though it would be naive to expect that kind of admission in a book like this. As it is, it is an evocative distillation of Jones’ extraordinary journey, one that mirrors the complete post-war pop experience, while only occasionally interacting with it. The book was co-written by Giles Smith, who captures Jones’ voice perfectly (in much the same way that James Fox did with Keith Richards for Life).

Over The Top And Back by Tom Jones (Penguin, £20) is out now. Sweet Dreams Are Made Of This: A Life in Music by Dave Stewart (Penguin, £13.99) is out now. 224 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016

THE AGONY OF THE ECSTASY The Vinyl Detective: Written In Dead Wax by Andrew Cartmel (Titan, £7.99) is out on 6 May.

We are in a golden age of music memoirs and the recollections of two remarkable talents tell a tale of noteworthy lives

Ron had a listening system consisting of a classic Revox tape deck, vintage solid-state Quad amps and some superb BBC LS3/5a speakers. I would have gone for the valve Quads myself, but the system was compact, high quality and no nonsense. Perhaps a little like its owner.

LET THE RECORD SHOW

Life lessons from fiction No1

How to sound like a vinyl junkie

Hard-won success is not making millennial superstars happy. And the audience is feeling the pain, too STORY BY

Dorian Lynskey

nyone who went to Wembley Stadium to see Ed Sheeran play one of three headlining shows last summer would have been greeted by an unusual display. A giant video screen scrolled through several years of tweets documenting Sheeran’s progress from unknown busker to pop phenomenon – all, apparently, without changing his shirt. It was at once self-aggrandising and weirdly prosaic, with all the mystique of a marathon runner’s training programme. All the hard grind and incremental progress that once lurked in the background of stardom was laid bare, crafted into a narrative and folded into the show. I wondered at the time whether fans were really interested in seeing how the sausage got made but, as usual, Sheeran knew what his audience wanted. Three of this year’s biggest hits so far take as their subject the artist’s path to making the record that you’re listening to. Danish group Lukas Graham’s chart-topping “7 Years” is a saccharine hybrid of Eminem’s “Lose Yourself”, “When I’m Sixty-Four” and a time-lapse YouTube video of a child growing up. Detroit singer-songwriter Mike Posner complains about the depressing emptiness of fame on “I Took A Pill In Ibiza”, an acoustic song remixed into a tropical house hit. Ohio duo Twenty One Pilots have had a spectacular breakthrough thanks to “Stressed Out”, a bittersweet rap-rock song which contrasts adult anxiety with the simplicity of childhood. I don’t particularly like these songs. In fact, “7 Years” reminds me of the wonderful German word backpfeifengesicht: “a face that cries out for a fist”. But you don’t have to enjoy a song to appreciate what it’s telling you about a cultural moment. These are ambivalent anthems for an era in which pop stardom is increasingly deglamourised. The stage has been set by Sheeran’s scruffy anti-image, The Weeknd’s chilly anhedonia, Lorde’s sardonic realism and the gilded sighs of Drake, a man who gives the impression of drying his eyes with $100 bills and expensive underwear. Nobody epitomises the “fame sucks” mood better than the pathologically dissatisfied Kanye West, who spends most of his chaotic new album, The Life Of Pablo, bragging about attaining a position that doesn’t make him happy. In the past, an origin story like, say, Notorious BIG’s 1994 single “Juicy” would follow a classic rags-to-riches arc, pivoting from youthful hardship to the spoils of success. Biggie made his new life sound like a riot of champagne, limousines and big tellies, but Lukas Graham singer Lukas Forchhammer says only, “Our songs have been sold.” Not so much a gleeful boast as a sales report. For Twenty One Pilots, childhood is a lost paradise. “Wish

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Blues brother: Drake, one of the artists creating the soundtrack to his generation’s anxiety, in Squamish, Canada, 8 August 2015

Started from the bottom, now we’re here Fame and fortune aren’t always all they’re cracked up to be. These millennial lyrics focus on the lows of soaring high...

1 KANYE WEST I Love Kanye “I hate the new Kanye, the bad mood Kanye / The always rude Kanye, spaz in the news Kanye / I miss the sweet Kanye, chop up the beats Kanye”

2 MIKE POSNER My Light “All I wanted was a record deal / A couple dollars when I got it / I couldn’t understand why I still had my problems / All alone, couldn’t find no help / And the stage ain’t a good place to find yourself”

Photograph Getty Images

3 LUKAS GRAHAM Mama Said “I got enough lovin’ from my mum and dad/ But I don’t think they really understood/ When I said that I wanted to deal in Hollywood”

we could turn back time to the good old days,” sighs frontman Tyler Joseph. On “I Took A Pill In Ibiza”, Mike Posner fails to enjoy drugs, clubbing, having a million dollars, sleeping with lots of women or singing on stage. All three songs foreground the hard work necessary to find success as a musician while downplaying the pleasures of actually achieving it. An older listener might conclude that these songs confirm the stereotype of millennials as narcissistic exhibitionists obsessed with publicly documenting the minutiae of their lives: selfie pop. But that would be to ignore the anxiety pulsing through them – the sense of jaws clenched with tension and determination. This new fascination speaks to a deeper truth about millennials. If you are under 30, or know somebody who is, then you know all about the challenge of finding a job or buying a house, about rising rents and unpaid internships, about the stark realisation that you are likely to be less fortunate than your parents. Tellingly, “Stressed Out” is the first hit single ever to complain about student loans. This explains the fetishisation of hard work in modern pop. For most young musicians who are trying to earn a living in an industry that has fallen faster and

further than the rest of the economy, being flaky is a luxury they can’t afford. It’s almost impossible to imagine another band like the Happy Mondays, who seemed to stagger their way to success, or even Oasis, who couldn’t be bothered to crack America. Perhaps Amy Winehouse, who loved making music while viewing every other aspect of her job with bored contempt, was the last significant figure to refuse to play the game. But, as the Oscar-winning documentary Amy illustrates, she couldn’t just opt out: the pressures of stardom broke her anyway. There have always been songwriters who describe their path as a hard and fruitless slog. Go all the way back to 1965 and you’ll find the hapless Jackson C Frank getting drunk and dispirited in hotel rooms on his classic song “Blues Run The Game”. Rarely, though, have these laments connected with the public; the fantasy used to be far more alluring. Only now are the behind-the-scenes struggles and setbacks coming to the fore en masse, replacing the glittering dream with a flinty new realism. Mike Posner ends “I Took A Pill In Ibiza” with the words, “All I know are sad songs.” There will be more where that came from. For now, at least, blues run the game.

The pop fantasy used to be far more alluring

JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 225


SEE

Poster boys: The Stig poses by a memorial for his former co-hosts

The Summer Exhibition at Royal Academy Of Arts, London 13 june - 21 august

Now in its 248th year, the Summer Exhibition continues to be a well-loved showcase of current activity in the contemporary art world. The wealth of materials and media this year includes painting, sculpture, photography, printmaking, architecture and film by emerging artists and big names alike. Democratic to its last breath; a must-see for all art lovers. SOPHIE HASTINGS READ

The Hanging Club by Tony Parsons

WHY TOP GEAR 2.0 IS STALLING

out now (century)

If you haven’t already become a fan, the third outing for Max Wolfe is a perfect introduction to the London underworld that Tony Parsons has so vividly created for his homicide detective. While expertly playing with the classic tropes of the detective genre, Parsons folds in live-streamed vigilante justice and a social media campaign to bring back the death penalty – meaning Wolfe’s cases couldn’t feel more of-the-minute.

The rebooted show’s awe for the automotive arts is jeopardising its chances of success, says GQ STORY BY

Stuart McGurk

hen James May was attempting some years ago to explain the appeal of Top Gear to me – not exactly a car enthusiast, in the sense that I’ve never driven or owned one, and they often try to kill me while I cycle – he made a comparison that seemed, at first, strange. “People didn’t get this worked up about Fawlty Towers or The Goodies or The Goons,” he said, talking of the perennial controversies. Wait a sec, what? But, of course, it made sense. Top Gear had hooked me precisely because it remained as much about car reviews as Jaws was about fishing techniques. By the time I became a fan – late in its run – they were racing motor-powered kayaks in Iceland, hosting drive-time radio shows, strapping caravans to blimps and staging sketch-show skits (they once booby-trapped their campsite, only, you know, not really). As May said to me during our interview: “Top Gear is actually hastening the car’s demise; 90 per cent of the time we’re turning it into a laughing stock.” Yet look at the new Top Gear – hosted by Chris Evans and half the car industry – and suddenly they seem to be taking the cars seriously again. Oh no! The full line-up: Evans, a car-nut; Eddie Jordan, a former F1 team boss; Sabine Schmitz, a German racing driver; Rory Reid, a car reviewer; Chris Harris, a car YouTuber; and please, God, can’t we have another car person? Oh, wait, there’s also The Stig. Finally, of course, there’s Matt LeBlanc. Just because. Compare and contrast: last time anyone checked, Jeremy Clarkson – for his new Amazon show, set to start in September – was building a coral reef in Barbados out of rusted old car chassis, after reading it had been done with old ships. They will not, you imagine, be discussing their cornering ability. Elvis Costello famously said that writing about music is like dancing about architecture and so, transposing that perspective, a serious Top Gear is something like painting about photography. The only stunt, so far, that has recalled the show’s former buccaneering spirit was the controversial skid around the Cenotaph. The BBC have said they won’t air it. And even that was in a car. Top Gear starts this month on BBC Two.

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Prime time 226 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016

Clarkson, Hammond and May’s estimated budget per episode for their new series, courtesy of Amazon Original Series.

OLIVIA COLE

Self reflection: Beth Orton returns to electroexperimentation this month

For the latest art, books, TV and movies, set your cultural compass to this month’s pole stars

Photographs Tierney Gearon; Getty Images; Photoshot

royalacademy.org.uk


DON’T MISS

SEE

Unseen City: Photos By Martin Parr at Guildhall Art Gallery and London’s Roman Amphitheatre until 31 july

Parr has been documenting life in the City of London since he became its photographer-in-residence in 2013. Granted unprecedented access, Parr shoots public and private moments with characteristic candour and humanity, his subjects as open and unguarded as ever. SH cityoflondon.gov.uk WAT C H

A Hologram For The King

Francis Bacon: Invisible Rooms by Tate Liverpool 18 may - 18 september

With more than 30 large-scale paintings, alongside numerous documents and rarely seen drawings, this examines the spacial structures Bacon painted around many of his subjects. Sometimes enclosed and prison-like, the “rooms” reinforce the psychological intensity of the work; at others, they transform the space into an arena or theatrical set. SH

DOUBLE BUBBLE

Hanks will also star in the adaptation of The Circle, alongside Emma Watson.

out on 20 may

You wait a decade for a Dave Eggers film adaptation, then two come along at once. Before the arrival in cinema’s of Eggers’ 2013 tech company satire, The Circle, later in the year, we get Tom Hanks in Tom Tykwer’s stab at his 2012 novel, A Hologram For The King. Hanks stars as a businessman travelling to Saudi Arabia to build a megaplex in the sand, in the outsourcing of the American dream. The book was a hit but didn’t wear its themes lightly: here’s hoping the film can go one better. SM

tate.org.uk/liverpool READ

Paul McCartney: The Biography by Philip Norman out now (w&n)

According to the Beatles biographer, whose companion volume to his 2008 opus, John Lennon: The Life, this is, “For all his taste and sophistication [McCartney] remains a musician who functions best late at night and is happiest among others of his profession, though no longer a pot smoker for fear of setting a bad example to his grandchildren” – the author arriving at his conclusion only after meticulous character study that adeptly shuns hero worship. BILL PRINCE

WAT C H

Money Monster out on 27 may

George Clooney finally returns to being George Clooney, which is to say the towering muscular actor of Michael Clayton rather than the comedy prancer of Hail, Caesar! or The Monuments Men. Money Monster, directed by Jodie Foster, promises to be a splicing of Dog Day Afternoon and Wall Street, as Clooney plays the host of a stock advice show held hostage by a viewer (a ragged Jack O’Connell) who’s lost everything on one of his tips and wants justice. SM SEE

States of Mind: Tracing The Edges Of Consciousness at Wellcome Collection, London until 16 october

Artists, philosophers, neuroscientists and psychologists explore the area that lies between the conscious and unconscious, including phenomena such as sleepwalking, memory loss, anaesthesia and synaesthesia. Artists include Goshka Macuga, Carla MacKinnon, Louise K Wilson and AR Hopwood. SH wellcomecollection.org WAT C H

Everybody Wants Some!! out on 13 may

WAT C H

Peaky Blinders starts this month on bbc one

Finally, one of the few British dramas to match the depth and darkness of American cable’s finest is back, and it promises to be as brilliant as ever. Specific details are under wraps, but we do know this: while series two focused on the Birmingham mob heading to London, the third series will see Cillian Murphy’s Tommy go international, with Paddy Considine a new addition to the cast. SM

Richard Linklater follows up his coming-of-age masterpiece, HEAR Boyhood, with a work he calls Hopelessness the spiritual sequel to his breakout by Anohni debut, Dazed And Confused. out on 6 may (rough trade) Where the latter followed a group The Oscar-nominated of high school seniors (including artist formerly known a fresh-faced Matthew as Antony Hegarty McConaughey), reinvents herself with Everybody Wants emotionally intense Some!! follows a group protest songs about of hard-partying frat war, America and boys and the result is Number of awards ecological disaster set every bit as funny, won by Boyhood, only to ominous electronica bittersweet, shambling one of which is an produced by Kanye and poignant as Dazed Academy Award. West collaborator was almost a quarter of Hudson Mohawke and a century ago. SM experimentalist musician READ Oneohtrix Point Never. The most audaciously impressive album of East West Street: political songs since PJ Harvey’s On The Origins Of Let England Shake. DORIAN LYNSKEY Genocide And Crimes

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HEAR

Kidsticks by Beth Orton out on 27 may (anti)

The British singer-songwriter’s more recent straight folk-rock albums were fine, but lacked the experimental edge that first made her so refreshing. This album of lean, compelling electronic pop, co-produced by F*** Buttons’ Andrew Hung, emphatically redresses the balance and yields her most invigorating songs in years. DL

Against Humanity by Philippe Sands out now (w&n)

Family connections and a historical coincidence send the author and QC on a quest to uncover the roots of international justice, during which he discovers the fate of relatives caught up in the Mittel European maelstrom that culminated in the savagery of the Second World War, as well as the genesis of the international court of human rights. A legal and personal history that reads like a thriller. BP

HEAR

A Sailor’s Guide To Earth by Sturgill Simpson out now (atlantic)

Nashville’s most interesting star goes wide and deep on his third album; a questing, country-soul song cycle about homesickness which ranges from Stax to Springsteen to a delicious southernfried cover of Nirvana’s “In Bloom”. Simpson represents all of country music’s strengths and none of its clichés. DL JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 227


T H E M E N O F B A F TA 2 0 1 6 : PA R T 1

STORY BY

PHOTOGRAPHED EXCLUSIVELY FOR GQ BY

JONATHAN HEAF

GAVIN BOND

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e’s here.” The security detail vocalises what every other person present is thinking. The crowd turns its collective head, mouths agape; women throw themselves in front of buses; teenage boys grow fangs and start howling; and wristwatches start running backwards. My iPhone self-immolates. “Le-O!” “Le-O!” “Le-O!” Hitting, as I am, the EE British Academy Film Awards (Baftas) red carpet outside the Royal Opera House at the exact same moment as the biggest movie star in the world – at what is undeniably the most significant moment in his career – is one hell of a doozy. Minutes ahead of us Michael Fassbender (wolfish grin, firm handshake, gregarious) and Dakota Johnson (old-Hollywood grace inherited from her parents, knockout cherryred silk gown) had been keeping the tweeting/ snapping/instagramming fans placated. When Leonardo DiCaprio emerges from his car, however, with that conspiratorial smirk and those backlit blue eyes, and runs a hand gently over his slick side parting before talking to the first in the press line, the screams go noticeably one louder. The mob goes up to eleven. From here on in – as it will be from the ceremony to the afterparty to tomorrow’s front pages – he is the only one that matters. The King is in town, and he’s ready to swing. I’ve witnessed what it is like being sucked into DiCaprio’s magnetic field before. If seeing DiCaprio at public functions is to witness the actor walk into the glare of fame’s floodlights – polite, humbled, even at 41 that boyish charm cloaking absolute control – then the DiCaprio I saw a couple of years ago was the lesserseen side of the man. I glimpsed him in the shadows, in the wild, his guard down ever so slightly amid the relative security of chaotic revelry and friendship. 228 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016

It was two years ago at a dive of a club in New York. I’d been taken there by singer Rita Ora; we’d bumped into each other at Soho House on 9th Avenue and when the members’ bar ran dry she’d suggested we head to someone’s birthday party uptown. Drivers were called. The night was lit. That someone turned out to be Jonah Hill, who at the time had just finished shooting The Wolf Of Wall Street with DiCaprio and Martin Scorsese. The basement bar was throbbing with bodies. Out of maybe 100 of New York’s louchest, 80 per cent were women. They were all, all, dancing in the direction of a man at the back by the DJ booth. It was DiCaprio. Alone. On a sofa. He had a tall glass of something clear in his left hand. He was wearing what we’ve come to expect to see him in when he’s not on-screen – soft sports clothes and a beaten-up leather jacket that hangs to give all the shape of a wheelie bin. His legs were pumping up and down as if he were trying to stamp out a small bush fire. He was wearing a flat cap pulled right down to the bridge of his nose, a trait that, despite being used to shield his features against the paparazzi, has actually become noticeably a thing. (Who else wears their cap like that?) Every so often a single green pinprick from his e-cigarette burnt a hole in the fuggy darkness

For DiCaprio, friendship offers what fame cannot. Freedom

of the club. A modern-era wise-guy Gatsby with his own pocket-sized green lantern. Jonah Hill has only quite recently been sworn in to DiCaprio’s bro circle of trust. Over the past few years Bradley Cooper and Tom Hardy received the call, although with Hardy, a friendship that began on the set of Inception was bound tighter last year in a subzero river on the southernmost tip of Argentina shooting The Revenant. Two men thrown together out of a commitment to the material and some seriously bad weather. Hardy and DiCaprio have a camaraderie more about mutual professional respect, rather than any sense of strip club wingmanship. The three longest-serving members of DiCaprio’s gang are actors Lukas Haas, Kevin Connolly and Tobey Maguire. They all met in Los Angeles on the auditioning circuit when they were teenagers and they all own houses in the same part of Hollywood. Their kids call the star Uncle Leo. For DiCaprio, these boys are lifers. Tobey Maguire isn’t in London for the Baftas but it will be him who, along with DiCaprio’s mother and his long-term manager, Rick Yorn, will accompany his close friend to the Oscars held two weeks later. If you scan the party pictures, while DiCaprio grips his golden man and grins alongside host Chris Rock, Ben Affleck, Elton John and pretty much everyone else, a lone figure can be seen standing just to DiCaprio’s right, about ten yards back. It’s Maguire, standing silently, his hands folded out in front of him, watching as his best friend basks in the big win. You can sense the allegiance between them. The brotherhood. Footage exists online of DiCaprio and Maguire back when they were teenagers, running through Hollywood’s streets like wolves, doing karate kicks in car parks and

Photograph Gavin Bond/Bafta/Camera Press

What it’s REALLY like to be Leonardo DiCaprio


BAFTA 2016

DiCaprio’s fame had not been seen in Hollywood since Jack Nicholson or Marlon Brando

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‘My friends have named me the person they least want to do extreme adventures with, because I always seem to be very close to being part of a disaster. [On] a tandem dive, we pulled the first parachute. That was knotted up. The gentleman I was with cut it free. I didn’t even think about the extra parachute, so I thought we were just plummeting to our death. He pulled the second, and that was knotted up, too. He just kept shaking it and shaking it in mid-air. And he finally unravels it. The fun part was when he said, “You’re probably going to break your legs on the way down, because we’re going too fast now.”’

‘Def ining yourself to the public on a consistent basis is death to a performer.

‘I think actors make the mistake of finding their little niche in the business. And once they try to do something a little darker, boom, they get slapped across the face for it, so they go back to what they did before. That’s why the business can be cruel, because it doesn’t encourage you to learn. Like on this movie [The Basketball Diaries], there’s some whacked-out stuf that I do that I’ve never done before, never in my entire life, not even at home alone.’

‘The last few years I feel way more comfortable than I’ve ever felt. You always talk about that, and then one day you’re like, “If they don’t like this, well, f*** ’em. What can you do?” It’s a resignation to life and who you are. I’m pretty well-formed as an adult now. I don’t have to impress anybody.’

‘It’s the gratitude of being able to do this. I came from LA, a lot of my friends were actors. A lot of my friends didn’t get to do what they wanted to do. It’s incredibly rare. And it’s not just about talent, there are incredible actors out there that are equally talented. It’s about being in the right place at the right time and getting that one shot. That has propelled me throughout all these years, saying, “I know how lucky I am.”’ ‘I take what I do very seriously, and when I’m on set that’s all I focus on, so my vice is to hang out with my friends and talk about absolutely nothing of importance whatsoever and act like a complete idiot because I’ve got to filter out a lot of the serious stuff I’m dealing with all the time. It’s like therapy to just be a complete idiot with my friends and it’s fantastic.’

The more you define who you are personally the less you are able to submerge into the characters you do, and people will think,

“I don’t buy him in that role.”’ ‘I would walk outside my house and it was everywhere – crackheads everywhere. It made me think twice. It was a great lesson, and I’m not saying that’s what kids need to see, in order to run away from it. But it was just never going to be an option for me.’

Le Le

by

What I’ve learnt

‘I GET UNHAPPY DOING THINGS THAT I’M NOT PASSIONATE ABOUT... I VOWED TO MYSELF THAT I WAS GOING TO WORK

‘I SAW ALL THE MORAL DECAY YOU COULD, BEGINNING AT TWO YEARS OLD. BUT I ALSO GOT TO SEE HOW THE OTHER HALF LIVED. I COULD SEE THAT THIS OTHER WORLD WAS OUT THERE. AND IF I COULD ONLY GET MY SHOT, I WOULD NEVER WASTE THE OPPORTUNITY. THAT MENTALITY AND THAT GRATITUDE ARE STILL IN ME.’

‘My dad has been incredibly influential. I give him credit for so many of my choices as an actor, especially early on, steering me towards non-obvious sorts of characters and to take risks. My father says basically this: “No matter what you do, two things matter. Try to lead an interesting life and no matter what your life is like, try to find a way to wake up every morning and just be happy you can put your pants on.”’

‘The main thing I don’t want to do right now is create an image for myself. I notice that when I’m being consciously cool and I talk slower and wink or give a little smirk, people seem to like me more, and I think that’s how you get phony attitudes about things. Whenever I notice myself doing something just to please somebody else, I try to stop it.’

‘Life’s too short to be lazy and passive, and I

WITH DIRECTORS WHO WERE CHANGING don’t like to stay in one CINEMA, DOING SOMETHING IMPORTANT’ environment for too long, ‘People who are celebrities are shrouded in mystery. Jack Nicholson said, “By the very nature of being known you meet more people in an average week.” It makes you hold on to the people you know and trust.’

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‘I learnt from very early on that if you keep repeating yourself then audiences will be completely bored with you as an artist. And the only way to create longevity is to take some risks and take chances. I knew the actor I wanted to be at 15. I knew the types of things I wanted to do and that really hasn’t changed at all.’

or get set in one way of thinking. I love to travel, get involved in different environmental projects. Stimulate myself.’


BAFTA 2016 loitering outside clubs such as The Viper Room and Bar Marmont. There’s an interview with a beautiful, sun-kissed Californian model, vox popped outside a club, who explains to a journalist why DiCaprio bought a big roomy Jeep as his first car rather than, say, a Porsche. “It’s so he can fit all his friends in, of course!” Maguire and DiCaprio met 30 years ago. The star was on his way home from school with his mum when he saw Maguire out on an LA street shooting a TV spot. DiCaprio made his mum stop the car and he rushed out shouting, “Tobey! Tobey! Tobey!” Maguire seemed a little unsure but smiled nonetheless. In DiCaprio’s words, “I just made him my pal. When I want someone to be my friend, I just make them my friend.” What DiCaprio saw in Maguire, Haas and Connolly was at first kinship – a bunch of like-minded working kids with whom he could share his experiences. But over the years they have become his family. His constant. His court. His privacy’s Iron Dome. When DiCaprio’s career began to seriously catch fire – namely when he was nominated for an Academy Award aged 19 for What’s Eating Gilbert Grape and then again, three years later, with the release in Titanic – DiCaprio kept his friends close in order to keep some ground on things. To keep some perspective. To keep some sanity. Supermodels come and go. For DiCaprio, such friendship offers that thing which fame and success have dissolved. It offers freedom. Freedom to work, to get wild, to confide and to occasionally lose control. To pretend to be normal. For the King of Hollywood to forget, if only for a fleeting moment – when the lights are low, the music is up – who he really is.

director of The Revenant, Alejandro González Iñárritu – DiCaprio will occasionally turn and flash a conspiratorial smile at the filmmaker. In front of DiCaprio is Dame Maggie Smith and his interaction with the Downton Abbey star by way of a live “kiss cam” sprung on both actors at the beginning of the ceremony by Stephen Fry is a little more unexpected, if not charming. Well, it is Valentine’s Day after all. The third and final person DiCaprio speaks to, or at least mutters to, is sitting directly to the star’s right. This is Rick Yorn, the actor’s manager since 1992, when DiCaprio was starring in TV series Growing Pains. Yorn, who tried investment banking before choosing management, has the likes of Benicio del Toro, Martin Scorsese, Justin Timberlake, Jonah Hill and Reese Witherspoon on his books. More than any other human being – from close friends to family members – DiCaprio looks to Yorn for guidance.

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orn is quite simply DiCaprio’s main representative on Planet Earth. If the star’s tight circle of loyal bro-pals are his life support, then Yorn is DiCaprio’s sensei, his teacher, his boss. The star, for example, has no talent agent which, although not unheard of, is fairly unusual in Hollywood. This means if you have a business proposition you’d like to put to the actor – maybe you’re a new multimillion-dollar casino launching in Macau and would like DiCaprio to star in one of your promotional films – then it is Yorn with whom you must negotiate. Likewise, if you’re a director and you’d like DiCaprio to read a script for your next movie, it’s Yorn who will read it first. This evening,

Photographs Getty Images; Rex

he riot over DiCaprio being in attendance this evening at Bafta has bled from the red carpet to the global village via social media in seconds. “JUST GET ME CLOSER!” This is the sort of comment I receive underneath a photograph I post of all the attendant nominees and guests seated in the theatre, taken as I wait for the ceremony to begin. From where I’m sitting – circle, first row, dead centre – I can see the back of DiCaprio’s head swivelling occasionally. He’s in the stalls – second row from the stage, far left end – wearing a midnightblue tux that has a diamond-shaped grain running throughout. DiCaprio arrived bang on time: not too late, not too early. He looks a little tense. While the likes of Cate Blanchett, Alicia Vikander and Eddie Redmayne turn and shake hands, convivially waving to peers and colleagues, DiCaprio, so far as I can make out, acknowledges only three people in his orbit. The first is sitting directly behind the star,

when DiCaprio picks up his Best Actor Bafta for The Revenant, he will acknowledge Yorn in his speech. “Rick Yorn, thank you for pushing me every single day.” Yorn has a story about his most in-demand client. Actually, it’s not a story so much about DiCaprio as about Yorn’s unique management style and how he had to adjust his strategy to cope with the actor’s fame flame, the likes of which had not been seen in Hollywood since Jack Nicholson or Marlon Brando. (And they didn’t have to worry about pesky iPhones.) It was 1999 and Yorn walked into a restaurant called Dan Tana’s on Santa Monica Boulevard, an infamous Hollywood establishment where still to this day you might see Ray Liotta slurping up a plate of Clams Casino. At that time, DiCaprio had just made two critical hits – What’s Eating Gilbert Grape, and This Boy’s Life – and two commercial humdingers – Romeo + Juliet and Titanic. The first two made him an acting contender, the second two films made him the most famous heart-throb on the planet. It was a heady, combustible mix. Yorn knew it. What didn’t help, of course, was how his dreamboat was running wild. DiCaprio was already catnip to gossip columnists and loitering paparazzi back then; his face falling out of a New York night club was starting to become a regular occurrence on tabloid front pages. Yorn knew that if this continued it could start to impact the star’s career trajectory. Lew Wasserman was in Dan Tana’s that night 17 years ago and called Yorn over to his booth. He wanted to talk to Yorn about his client. Wasserman was Hollywood back then: a talent agent and studio executive who created the mythology behind the modern movie star as we know it. Wasserman leant forward and growled his advice to Yorn, “Only let them see him in a dark room.” After a beat, Yorn got it. Keep him hidden. Keep the mystery. Keep the real DiCaprio in the dark, on screen. Yorn walked back to the bar and called his enigmatic client. Seventeen years later DiCaprio thanks Yorn on stage at Bafta. Seventeen years and two weeks later, DiCaprio – a five-time Academy Award nominee – finally picks up the Oscar for Best Actor. He makes his speech. He smiles that smile. And then, he’s gone. Back to work. Back to party. Back to the dark.

MORE FROM GQ Golden horde: The Bafta, Golden Globe and Oscar Best Actor awards all won for The Revenant this year

For these related stories, visit GQ.co.uk/magazine

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K ID ROCKS

BOY WON DE R

MAX IRONS

DOUGLAS BOOTH

There’s something of the new Jude Law about Max Irons. Maybe it’s how well he hides his ambition, displaying a refreshing lack of ego in comparison with many of his youthful peers. Maybe it’s that dreamboat smile. Something just tells you – like Law – that he’d be a blast on a night out. His biggest movies to date include The Riot Club and The Host, and last year he starred opposite Ryan Reynolds and Helen Mirren in Woman In Gold. What’s certain is there’s much more to be seen, both on screen and of, from Jeremy Irons’ ever-so-dapper son.

For a moment back there we were utterly terrified: surely no one this handsome can actually act? Thankfully, with his turn as Boy George in Worried About The Boy, our fears were obliterated. Since then Booth has gone on to show good chops, a fine instinct and spectacular hair. If the biopic announced his arrival, then it was The Riot Club – an adaptation of Laura Wade’s play Posh – that took Booth to the next level. This year we’ll see him in a film about Van Gogh’s life and death, Loving Vincent – a casting decision as pretty as a picture, no doubt.

Suit, £2,350. Shirt, £330. Cummerbund, £95. Bow tie, £95. All by Dunhill. dunhill.com

Suit. Shirt. Bow tie. Pocket square. All by Tom Ford. tomford.com

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BAFTA 2016 THE LEADER

TOM CRUISE After nearly four decades on the big screen there is no one who can rival Cruise for save-the-planet, cut-the-right-wire heroics. The Franciscan seminary student who wanted nothing more than to become a priest but instead turned into one of the biggest movie stars ever, is still of the belief that blockbust-ier is always better. Whether hanging of a plane door in Mission: Impossible – Rogue Nation, or feeding an audience’s imagination in upcoming sci-fi Luna Park, Cruise knows that if you’re not pushing the audience to the edge of their senses then you’re not trying hard enough. There are leading men and then there’s Cruise. Suit, £1,800. Shirt, £395. Bow tie, £115. Pocket square, £85. All by Dolce & Gabbana. dolcegabbana.com

T H E M E N O F B A F TA 2 0 1 6 : PA R T 2 PHOTOGRAPHED EXCLUSIVELY FOR GQ BY

GAVIN BOND

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THE REAL DEAL

JACK O’CONNELL If last year hailed the Derby man’s breakout moment, then 2016 will be the year that O’Connell widens the gap between himself and his peers. For the cynics who thought his being plucked from relative obscurity by Angelina Jolie for Unbroken two years ago was some sort of fluke, then they should be prepared to be proved very wrong indeed. Slated movies include Tulip Fever, alongside Academy Award winners Alicia Vikander and Christoph Waltz, the lead in the adaptation of Laurent Binet’s Second World War thriller HHhH, and next up, a co-starring role with Hollywood grown-ups George Clooney and Julia Roberts in the highly anticipated Money Monster. For O’Connell fortune and glory aren’t just knocking, they are coming in through the walls. Suit. Shirt. Bow tie. All by Gucci. gucci.com 234 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016


BAFTA 2016 THE NEW HOPE

JOHN BOYEGA Could the new Star Wars trilogy ask for a better advert than this 24-year-old from Peckham, south London? Gregarious, energised, pumped to the point of neardetonation, Boyega’s overflowing enthusiasm and verve would grate were he not quite so ludicrously charming. He’s also a damn fine actor, to be seen this year in a galaxy a little closer to home in The Circle, an adaptation of the Dave Eggers novel, starring Emma Watson as a woman who lands a job at a powerful, somewhat mysterious tech company. As of now, Boyega is back in clandestine production for Star Wars: Episode VIII, to be released at the end of 2017. Keep winning, Finn, and for the sake of the Resistance keep schtum. Suit. Shirt. Bow tie, £3,500. All by Armani. armani.com

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T HE CLOW N

SACHA BARON COHEN Say what you want about Grimsby, Baron Cohen’s laddish yarn about a northerner with as many children as tattoos, but he doesn’t do things by halves. Whether portraying Borat Sagdiyev, Kazakhstan’s sixth most famous man, despotic Admiral General Aladeen in The Dictator, or even strict Inspector Gustave Dasté in Martin Scorsese’s Hugo, Baron Cohen’s skill is to conjure up one bombastic character after another, winding the world up and courting controversy as he goes. Such riotous, in-your-face originality will always make the projects the actor works on worth seeking out, if only to toast the triumph of their ofensiveness. Suit, £1,750. Shirt, £215. Bow tie, £115. Pochette, £85. All by Dolce & Gabbana. dolceandgabbana.com 236 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016


BAFTA 2016 OU R G OL DE N BOY

EDDIE REDMAYNE For an actor as distinguishable as Redmayne – the auburn hair, the narrow eyes, the wide jawline, that megawatt smile – it’s astonishing how he is able to wipe his own personality away so entirely when onscreen. In his most critically acclaimed roles – notably the actor’s portrayal of Professor Stephen Hawking in The Theory Of Everything and this year as transgender woman Lili in The Danish Girl – it is the extraordinary physicality of Redmayne’s acting, his gestures, his gait, tics and so on, that unlock his true potential as a performer. Here’s to the next ground-breaking metamorphosis. Suit. Shirt. Bow tie. All by Valentino. valentino.com

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YOU NG GU N

WILL POULTER What does it take for a successful child actor to become a man in 2016? For the baby-faced 23-year-old Poulter, a past recipient of Bafta’s Rising Star award, it took spending time filming in freezing temperatures with two very hairy Hollywood alpha males, Tom Hardy and Leonardo DiCaprio, and one very angry bear. The Revenant marks something of a watershed moment for Poulter, a sensitive actor whose role in the movie has allowed audiences to finally see his inner tough guy. Next up? War Machine with Brad Pitt. You’re playing with the big boys now, Poulter. Suit, £2,065. Shirt, £195. Bow tie, £80. All by Lanvin. lanvin.com

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BAFTA 2016 H E I R A P PA R E N T

DOMHNALL GLEESON When you have Irish acting lion Brendan Gleeson for a father it’s easy to imagine that working your way out of such a long shadow might take its toll on a man. Not so Domhnall, however, who now after years of not-quite-breaking has suddenly smashed through fame’s crystal ceiling with a run of critically acclaimed, much-loved movies, from AI thriller Ex Machina and Alejandro González Iñárritu’s The Revenant to Brooklyn alongside Saoirse Ronan. Next up, Mena with Tom Cruise. There was also the small matter of Star Wars: The Force Awakens. “I am your father. And I am proud of you, son.” As Brendan Gleeson would no doubt boom. Suit, £1,495. Shirt, £295. Bow tie, £95. Pocket square, £50. All by Burberry. burberry.com

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On 23 June, the country takes part in the most important referendum in decades: to stay in the EU, or leave. But just what are the pros and cons of leaving the 28-nation union? The Eurosceptics argue it would save the taxpayer billions, free Britain to draw up more competitive trade agreements, reduce immigration and lower the risk of terrorist attacks. Europhiles, meanwhile, claim exit would lead to a long-term economic downturn, cost millions of jobs and reduce our standing in the world. If we remain we must abide by all the EU’s laws and regulations, from environmental to trade to finance. So what to do? To help you decide we’ve simplified the big issues in our indispensable guide... STORY BY Stuart McGurk

Budget Each year, the UK pays a membership fee to be in the EU. In 2015, we paid £13 billion (the fourth highest, after Germany, France and Italy), yet EU spending on the UK was £4.5bn, leaving £8.5bn that doesn’t directly benefit the UK and that would technically be saved if we were to leave.

Leave: This seems like a clear saving – £8.5bn is, after all, seven per cent of the total budget of the NHS. (The commonly quoted pro-Brexit saving of “£350 million a week”, or £18bn a year, is incorrect, as it doesn’t take into account rebates or EU spending.) Remain: As the House Of Commons Library has admitted, they have no idea what all the possible knock-on losses will be, on everything from trade to jobs to finance and farming, “There is no definitive study of the economic impact of the UK’s EU membership or the costs and benefits of withdrawal.”

Trade In the EU we benefit from an open-ended trade agreement: this means no import or export tarifs for trade between EU member states. A post-Brexit Britain would almost certainly attempt to aggressively negotiate its own deals and everything else would be impacted by the outcome of that, which is why clear predictions are so diicult.

Leave: More than half (51.4 per cent) of our trade is with to the EU, with an estimated 3.4m jobs dependant on it, according 240 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016

Remain: An analysis by the Centre For Economic Performance (CEP) called it “a risky gamble” in a recent report, saying if the UK are unable to negotiate favourable terms, we would sufer an income fall of up to 9.5 per cent of GDP: similar to the loss from the global financial crisis of 2008-9. “The idea that we’ll be able to strike lots of new free-trade deals with other countries, being free from the EU, is fantasy, as is the idea that there will be some bonfire of red tape that lights up UK growth,” says CEP director John van Reenen.

Photographs Getty Images; Plainpicture

to the European Institute, so any shift could be monumental. The think-tank Open Europe – while admitting it could go either way, depending on the trade deals we strike – has calculated that “under a best case scenario, under which the UK manages to enter into liberal trade arrangements with the EU and the rest of the world while pursuing large-scale deregulation at home” we could be better of by 1.6 per cent of GDP per year by 2030.


BREXIT

Environment

Migration

The environment might not seem to be an area hugely afected by an EU exit, yet freedom from EU environmental rules and regulations, such as habitat and water quality directives, could potentially see radical change.

Migration is easily the most emotive issue at the heart of Brexit and also has the most potential knock-on efects, from the labour market to security to the NHS. There are currently 1.2m eastern Europeans working in the UK, according to the National Oice Of Statistics, along with 791,000 western Europeans. Last year, to September alone, net migration to the UK was estimated at 172,000 according to the Migration Statistics Quarterly Report. All would be at risk if Britain left the EU.

Leave: Free from EU pollution and wildlife rules, the UK would be able to, for instance, go ahead with an aggressive expansion of Heathrow or relax rules on other business interests. However, it could also be beneficial for the environment itself. It might allow us to interpret legislation “such as the Bern Convention on the conservation of European and wildlife habitats [to benefit] our own flora and fauna”, says former environment under-secretary George Eustice. Remain: A study by the Institute For European Environmental Policy has claimed EU membership has had a “significant positive impact”, citing a substantial decline in most industrial sources of air and water pollution and greenhouse gas, and a growth of renewable energy and recycling. Stanley Johnson, father of Boris, who co-chairs the cross-party campaign group Environmentalists For Europe, argues environmental policy “is really too important to be left purely to local people or purely to national people. You actually have to have a global or international approach to some of the issues.”

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What are the post-EU trade options? Join the European Economic Area No special deal The least likely outcome, this would simply see us trading under the World Trade Organization (WTO) rules and having to accept the same conditions dealing with Europe as with the US, say, with crippling tariffs and taxes.

When the EU was formed, Norway, Liechtenstein and Iceland decided not to join, but opted in for free trade. Norway, for instance, controls its own fishing, agriculture, customs, justice and home affairs, but has no say over freedoms of goods, services, labour and capital.

Negotiate our own agreements Switzerland joined Norway, Liechtenstein and Iceland as a member of the European Free Trade Association, but not the European Economic Area, and has agreed 20 major and 100 minor bilateral agreements with the EU. Most experts agree the UK would take this route. As the world’s fifth largest economy, we could make deals that are even more advantageous.

Leave: In 2014, there were 131,000 working-age EU citizens claiming British benefits – 2.5 per cent of the total – so any reduction would save the country money. Pressure group Migration Watch UK has estimated net migration to Britain could be cut by up to 100,000 people a year – it would leave behind a less competitive job market, which could have negative knock-on efects on the NHS and businesses, but would likely raise employment levels and see a reduction of the “Polish builder” phenomenon of labourers from eastern Europe working in the UK. Remain: Currently, there are 1.22m expat Britons living in other EU countries – all would potentially have to return to the UK following an EU exit – while a less competitive job market could see businesses move abroad. Meanwhile, the UK has already reduced spending on benefits, after

An EU-US deal: would we miss out? The EU, as a body, is currently negotiating with the US to create what the BBC has said would be “the world’s biggest free-trade zone”. We would potentially miss out on this if a deal is struck – or at least be left to negotiate our own trade agreements, of which we can’t be sure of the outcome.

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David Cameron negotiated a better deal with the EU (if not quite the one he promised), resulting in a lower rate of benefits for new arrivals. And there are other, more unexpected, plus points to remaining in the EU. A good example is the Calais “jungle” camp. Due to agreements struck in 1991 and 2003, the UK border is efectively in France, meaning many from the camp are turned back on the French side. Exit from the EU would void those agreements and potentially increase the number of migrants entering the UK, efectively transposing the camp to Dover.

Abandoned hope: The Calais ‘jungle’ is a choke point for non-EU migrants, 19 December 2015

Football More than 400 foreign players from countries belonging to the European Union, who don’t also regularly play for their countries, are at British clubs. There are more than 100 in the Premier League alone. Players such as West Ham’s Dimitri Payet and Leicester’s N’Golo Kante, for instance, could be at risk, as they haven’t played enough games for their national sides (for a work permit, a player from a top-ten ranked nation must play 30 per cent of games, a player from an eleven to 20 nation 45 per cent, and so on). Leave: It depends who you support. Aston Villa, Newcastle and Watford, for instance, could lose eleven players each: great for rival fans. And while it may weaken club teams in the short term, it could strengthen the national team, with more English players either nurtured from academies or purchased from the lower leagues. Remain: West Ham vice-chairman Karren Brady has said Brexit could have “devastating consequences”, making our club sides less competitive in European competition, with the talent pool severely reduced, and even hampering fans travelling to European games, with visas required. But it’s believed that the rules could be relaxed in a post-Brexit UK.

Terrorism In the wake of the Brussels terrorist attack in March, in which 32 people died, itself coming after the November 2015 Paris attacks, which saw 130 people lose their lives, terrorism has become a serious Brexit topic – but does EU membership have an afect?

Leave: The former head of Interpol, Ronald K Noble, says Europe’s current internal borders policy is “like hanging a sign welcoming terrorists to Europe”. This is due to the 26 countries that make up the Schengen Area, which lets people cross borders with no document checks. Despite the UK not being part of Schengen, Iain Duncan Smith has said, “This open border does not allow us to check and control people.” So tighter regulation of movement into the UK would be a direct Brexit consequence. Remain: Defence secretary Michael Fallon has pointed out the benefits to the UK of being part of the EU as well as Nato and the United Nations. “It is through the EU that you exchange criminal records and passenger records and work together on counterterrorism. We need the collective weight of the EU when dealing with Russian aggression or terrorism.” (Pro-exit campaigners maintain that knowledge-sharing would still continue.) It also ignores the fact that most UK terrorism is homegrown: Home Oice figures show that, of the 507 people convicted of terror-related incidents since 11 September 2001, only 23 (just 4.5 per cent) were from EU countries and eight of those were Irish.

Health Over 100,000 skilled EU workers currently work in our health and social care system, whose positions would all be at risk, leaving a potentially catastrophic healthcare worker shortage, but freeing up many jobs. What’s more, the state of the economy in general has a huge knock-on effect in terms of NHS funding. Leave: “Health tourism” – whereby members of EU states travel to the UK for expensive procedures free of charge – is crippling the NHS, costing £700m a year, according to the chair of Vote Leave, Gisela Stuart. It’s money that would be saved if Britain left the EU, limiting movement into the UK. Remain: Remarkably, the NHS issue has managed to bring together the current health secretary Jeremy Hunt and Liberal Democrat former health minister Norman Lamb, who are both certain that leaving the EU would bring about an economic downturn that would see NHS budgets slashed. Hunt has declared, “Those who want to leave need to explain how they would protect the NHS from economic shock.” Meanwhile, 200 health professionals wrote a joint letter to the Times, citing the “enormous progress” that has been made “due to the research co-operation and knowledge sharing across the EU”. Of the £700m health tourism figure, Alan Johnson, chair of Labour’s In For Britain campaign, called it “hugely misleading”, as it ignores the 1.22m expat Brits in other EU countries, many having retired abroad and no longer using the NHS: it would put further stress on the NHS if they returned.

Are we over-regulated? This is the topic most Out campaigners stick to, with the prevailing feeling that Britain is held back due to over-regulation from Brussels. Yet the OECD has compared the extent of regulation that currently exists in the product and labour markets of its members, and found that Britain was by far the least-regulated country in Europe (it found Germany was the most, closely followed by Belgium and the Netherlands). The UK was even compared favourably with nations such as the US, Australia and Canada. 242 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016


BREXIT

The arts The UK creative industries – including film, TV, music, publishing and video games – are worth a total of £84.1bn, according to a January report from the Department For Culture, Media And Sport. As a sector it is growing at more than twice the rate of the wider economy. How will EU funding and trade efect it?

Investment and banking The UK financial sector employs more than two million people across the country, accounts for ten per cent of Britain’s GDP, is the world’s fourth largest banking industry, and last year the Treasury benefited by £66.5bn in tax revenue from the sector – more than all other export sectors combined.

Leave: EU regulation of the export of cultural goods, says Harriet Bridgeman, has badly damaged London’s art trade, adding “a whole new layer of red tape”. Indeed, the head of Christie’s Europe, Jussi Pylkkanen, called the law “a matter of real concern”, adding, “It will afect the modern art market, which is a key aspect of Christie’s activities in London.” Remain: Recent Oscar nominees Carol and Brooklyn and a raft of other British-produced films may not have existed if not for EU funding at the development stage; The King’s Speech and Slumdog Millionaire received €1m and €1.3m respectively. “EU funding,” says Lucy Thomas, deputy director of Better Stronger In Europe, “fuels the process from development to global promotion”. Labour’s shadow secretary of culture Maria Eagle has pointed out that the UK will have received £8.7bn in EU social and regional development funding by 2020, providing a “lifeline for culture and the arts in disadvantaged areas that have already been hit hard by Tory government cuts”. And according to a Creative Industries Federation report, every pound invested in arts and culture generates £1.06 in the economy.

Value added to the British economy by arts and culture

Photographs Corbis; Demotix; Reuters

Leave: With UK banks free from EU regulations, the government could potentially draw up a new set of relaxed banking rules to turn the London financial industry into the home of a Singapore-style supereconomy. Indeed, even a catastrophe in the short term could have an upside: Barclays has said that subsequent uncertainty in the EU could weaken the euro, with the UK becoming a “safe haven”, potentially pushing the pound’s value up. Remain: Lobby group The City UK did a study that looked at 147 “location investment decisions” and found more than two fifths of finance firms gave “access to the Single Market” as a core reason for choosing London: business that would potentially be lost. Barclays chairman John McFarlane has said the City would be “significantly worse” after an EU exit, as “foreign organisations use London as their main access to Europe”. Indeed, just the prospect of an Out vote has seen the pound recently hit a seven-year low against the US dollar, after London mayor Boris Johnson declared himself pro-exit. McFarlane added that American banks could seek to poach our top financial talent.

Jobs At stake is everything from the Working Time Directive (WTD) – which caps the working week to 48 hours – to job creation and national GDP. But it depends on a complicated interplay on trade, investment and immigration that is hard to predict.

Leave: Currently, unemployment is at five per cent – a ten-year low – yet pro-Brexit campaigners claim it could be better still. With immigration potentially restricted, there could be more jobs available in a post-EU

Britain, and former Marks & Spencer boss Lord Rose admitted to a parliamentary committee that the decreased competition could drive up wages. An oft-quoted figure that claims three million jobs are at risk is actually the number of people whose jobs depend on EU exports: again, that figure would only be at risk if we were unsuccessful in negotiating favourable new trade deals. Finally, energy minister Andrea Leadsom – who was previously economic secretary – has said that an EU exit would be beneficial for small businesses (which account for 95 per cent of all businesses and, according to the Federation Of Small Businesses, 60 per cent of the private-sector workforce) that don’t trade to the EU, but “have to abide by European rules and regulations which cost them time and money and add huge complexity to even the most simple business decision”.

Remain: Everything from the WTD to workers’ rights to paid holiday to fair treatment at work would potentially be in jeopardy, with pro-EU campaigns making the point that only a small percentage of EU business rules concern EU trade, with many about workers’ rights. Frances O’Grady, general secretary of the British Trades Union Congress, has said the Brexit debate has been too focused on business interests rather than ordinary workers, saying, “Most of the rights we depend on derive from Europe.” Potential labour shortages, meanwhile, could hold back the economy, with Lord Rose saying that while wages would rise, it could be bad for businesses. Finally, if free movement was restricted, it could also cause a “brain drain” of talent in the UK, with British companies no longer able to attract “the best and the brightest”, according to Professor Adrian Favell, writing for the London School Of Economics. JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 243


How would the main industries vote? Built to last: David Cameron visits Jaguar Land Rover’s Solihull plant, 2012

Cars: REMAIN The UK car industry has just had its best year in a decade, with 1,587,677 cars rolling of the production lines – up 3.9 per cent, according to the Society Of Motor Manufacturers (SMMT). It is a sector worth £69.5bn, but could be especially vulnerable to leaving the EU, as 77.3 per cent of cars made here are exported, with the vast majority (57.5 per cent) going to the EU. Jaguar Land Rover, which made 489,507 cars last year – almost a third of the total UK output – would be most afected.

Their case: In an SMMT poll, 88 per cent of large motor industry businesses were against leaving, fearing increased tarifs on EU sales. Paul Newton of industry consultancy IHS Automotive says, “The EU is by far our biggest export market and leaving it would have a massive impact, with the possible end of free-trade agreements. No manufacturing industry would be more afected by leaving than automotive”.

244 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016

Farming: UNDECIDED

Pharmaceuticals:

REMAIN Writing in the Spectator, Michael Gove claimed the current EU Clinical Trials Directive “slowed down the creation of new drugs to cure terrible diseases”. The Directive’s implementation in 2003 saw clinical trials take a nosedive, from 600 between 2000 and 2003 to fewer than 300 between 2004 and 2007, while Oxford University professor of medicine and epidemiology Rory Collins told Nature that a senior oicial of the US Food And Drug Administration described the directive as “Europe’s gift to America”, making a clear case for EU exit.

Their case: However, a survey of 400 research scientists, carried out in December 2015 by the Campaign For Science And Engineering, found 93 per cent agreed that EU membership is a “major benefit to UK science and engineering” due to regulatory harmonisation and knowledge sharing. There’s also the matter of funding. Labour MP Stella Creasy told parliament that Brexit could jeopardise up to £8.5bn over the next four years. The kicker for the In crowd: a new streamlined set of clinical trial rules are set to be introduced next year, promising to eradicate its current problems.

Currently, a remarkable 34 per cent of the total EU budget – some £47bn – goes toward the Common Agricultural Policy (CAP), yet agriculture accounts for just 1.5 per cent of European GDP. Put another way, farming is by far and away the most subsidised EU industry, with UK farmers alone getting £3bn a year. Those subsidies keep many prices artificially low, as they are often taken into account by the supermarkets: a litre of milk, for instance, costs a dairy farmer an average of 30p to produce, yet the supermarkets pay only 23p and pass that saving on to us. In total, the UK puts in £6bn to the CAP – double what we receive – yet we benefit from the remaining £3bn too, as it lowers the price of produce in other EU countries, which we import tarif-free.

Their case: You would think that this is open and shut for the farming industry – they would, after all, lose that £3bn a year, potentially putting many farms out of business – but because of the variables, the National Farmers Union (NFU) has remained on the fence. It would depend, for instance, on how favourable were the trade deals we negotiated (without one, British dairy exports, for instance, would incur a crippling 55 per cent import tax to reach the EU market; in total, British food and farming exports to the EU amount to more than £11bn a year, all of which would be at risk) and the extent to which the British government would be prepared to subsidise the farmers directly. The pro-Brexit farming minister George Eustice has claimed they would be prepared to do it. “The truth of the matter is if we left the EU,” he told the NFU’s annual conference in February, “there would be an £18bn a year dividend [actually £13bn] so could we find the money to spend £2bn a year on farming and the environment? Of course we could.” Though, as eagle-eyed farmers may note, even that figure still constitutes a £1bn reduction, and the environment currently has a separate budget. As Martin Haworth, the NFU’s general director, recently put it, “Some of the scenarios appear to suggest there could be serious risks to farm income from leaving the EU, while the result of others suggest there could be a more favourable outcome.”

Fear the reaper: Farming subsidies may be squeezed following EU exit


BREXIT

What does it mean for the cost of things? Food: lower Food would possibly become cheaper, according to the Economist. Under WTO rules, we can slash import barriers (as long as we do it for all and don’t favour some countries over others). This would, however, potentially hurt UK farmers, with more food imported. We would also regain control of fishing rights around our coasts. This could be bad for the environment if we don’t introduce some form of quota to prevent over-fishing, but could also lower prices if there are more fish to market.

Mobile phones:

higher

Photographs Getty Images; Alizee Palomba/onlyworld.net

Last summer, the European Commission announced it had reached agreement on Single Market legislation for telecoms. In practice, this meant no more “bill shock” after using your mobile when abroad in the EU: from now on, tourists in EU countries will pay the same mobile fees as at home. Leaving the EU could scrap all that.

Holidays: higher More than 29m holidays are taken each year from the UK to EU member countries; 76 per cent of all journeys taken. Research published in March by the Association Of British Travel Agents shows that being in the EU gives holidaymakers the following: financial protection for package holidays, compensation for flight delays, free healthcare via the European Health Insurance Card and the right to bring home limited goods. The potential loss of any of these in renegotiations could drive the cost of holidays up and require extra travel insurance.

Would you sacrifice power for freedom? By Matthew d’Ancona A few weeks hence, it really will be make-yourmind-up time. We are now in the last stages of a fierce campaign to decide our country’s destiny in Europe. Few, if any, political decisions you ever take will matter as much as the vote you cast in the EU referendum on 23 June. This needs to be said because so much of the debate thus far has focused on proxy controversies – David Cameron’s fate, Boris Johnson’s ambition, splits within the Tory party, migration control, the fight against terrorism, the alleged influx of foreign criminals and so on. As important as all these questions are, they are subordinate to the real issue at stake, which could scarcely be more straightforward: what kind of nation do we want to be? Both sides in this campaign have dazzled us with graphs and statistics, in the full knowledge that the vote will be settled by gut feeling and deep instinct, a cocktail of fear and anxiety. For every number produced by the Remain camp, the Leavers have their own. For every barchart supposedly proving that British business would be better off outside the soggy embrace of the EU, there is a scatter graph demonstrating precisely the opposite. But it is emotion that will produce the result. Referendums are fought by Mars and settled by Venus. Those of us who think that Britain should not leave the EU should first acknowledge that Britain would survive outside its multinational clutches. This country has, after all, the fifth largest economy in the world; with its superb armed forces and intelligence services, it would remain a significant strategic power; in diplomacy, science, the arts, higher education and the media we are world-beaters and would continue to be so outside the EU. The question is whether we would be better placed to maximise our national talents. That is what voters should be considering. Would Brexit really make Britain greater – or would it diminish our global status, our prosperity, our access to the planetary stage? What is certain is that leaving the EU would be the most god-awful grind. Brexiteers tend towards an endearing optimism when pressed on this matter, or to evade it altogether. I am inclined to agree with Lord O’Donnell, the former cabinet secretary, who warns that the two-year deadline set out for member countries leaving the EU would not be long enough, especially if Britain aspired to retain access to the Single Market. The sparsely populated island territory of Greenland left the European Community in 1985, the only precedent available for Brexiteers to study and to cite. And it is not a happy one, as O’Donnell pointed out in March, “Greenland has a slightly smaller population than Croydon and it has one issue, and that’s fish. So with one issue, small population, it took them not two years, but three.” Safer to assume that Britain would be locked in negotiations for the best part of a decade. That means, in turn, that whoever succeeded Cameron as prime minister after a vote to leave – which he could not survive, JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 245


Britain sits at every top table in the world

Nigel Farage Leader, Ukip OUT

Arron Banks Co-founder, Leave.EU OUT

“IF GOLDMAN SACHS HAD OFFERED LEAVE.EU SIX FIGURES WE WOULD HAVE TOLD THEM WHERE TO STUFF IT.” Len McCluskey

246 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016

Chairman, Barclays IN “The City will be significantly worse [if we leave the EU]. The rest of the world wants Britain to remain in the EU... Foreign organisations use London as their main access to Europe, and we don’t know what the impact of withdrawal will be.”

Mayor of London

General Secretary, Unite

OUT

IN

“We should strike a new free-trade deal along the lines of what Canada has just achieved. They have taken out the vast majority of the tariffs and have virtually unencumbered trade.”

“I’m a supporter of the EU, but when I vote for Britain to remain in the EU in June, I will not be voting for the EU which has sought to impose eye-watering austerity”

Lord Rose

IN

There would “almost certainly” be a second Scottish referendum if we were to leave the European Union, according to Scottish National Party leader Nicola Sturgeon, who has campaigned for the UK to remain (polls have consistently shown that EU membership is more popular in Scotland than the rest of the UK). If Scotland splits, the consequences are predicted to be dire: the Institute Of Fiscal Studies has estimated Scotland’s fiscal deficit would stand at 9.4 per cent of their GDP (as opposed to 2.7 per cent for the UK as a whole). By joining the EU on its own, reports the Financial Times, “Scotland could lose the UK’s opt-out from joining the euro.”

John McFarlane

Boris Johnson

Leader, Britain Stronger In Europe

What does Out mean for Scotland?

“This horrific act of terrorism [the Brussels bombing] shows that Schengen free movement and lax border controls are a threat to our security.”

“By and large, through the ups and downs, Europe has served us well. All the signs are that we are better of in a trading block. It would be a leap of faith and a leap into the dark.”

Photographs Allstar Picture Library; Julie Edwards/Photoshot; Eyevine; Getty Images; LNP; Polaris/Eyevine; The Times/News Syndication

politically – would find his or her time in Number Ten completely dominated by the maddening technicalities of leaving the club. That is a procedural argument – and a good one. But we should revert to the core question. Forget, for a moment, how long the new status would take to secure. Is it worth the aggravation? Is the repeal of the 1972 European Communities Act so desirable that such delays are a mere inconvenience compared to the rebuilding of Jerusalem in this green and pleasant land? At heart, the Leavers appeal to a powerful strand in the British character: a love of liberty and a suspicion of authority. We recoil from distant, unaccountable powers, such as the European Commission, especially when they are only flimsily accountable via the European Parliament, an international joke if ever there was one. Name your MEP. Yes, that’s what I thought. And did you know that each region has a number of MEPs who represent all of their constituents. London, for instance, has eight, while the South East has ten and the South West six? The fact that only political anoraks know such things is a poor advert for EU democracy. The freeborn Briton senses this and feels a correlative yearning to be rid of the whole damn thing. But before we do rid ourselves of it, consider what we would also be wrecking. The endlessly quoted Dean Acheson line – “Great Britain has lost an Empire and has not yet found a role” – may have been true when it was first spoken, in 1962. But it is emphatically not true today. Britain’s post-imperial role has been to recede as a colonial power – as Rudyard Kipling knew that it would – but to stay at every top table in the world. Indeed, we helped design most of them: the UN Security Council, Nato, the G8, the G20, the International Court Of Justice, the World Trade Organization... and the EU. The national wallet bulges with membership cards. To take one example of the consequences: only rarely has the United States turned to another European power in a crisis before Britain: we have world-class armed forces and spies and we are ready to collaborate. But Britain is also a prominent member of the European Union, the hinge nation in relations between the Continent and the transatlantic world. We punch above our weight because we flourish in both contexts. This is how a globalised order works – a world of networks rather than hierarchies, in which membership, interdependence and inclusion are all. The web is merely the technological face of this 21st-century reality: power belongs to those who retain their links, foster relationships with their peers and operate through networks. This is true of teenagers. It is also true of nations. Brexit might satisfy some atavistic yearning for imagined liberty. But it would baffle the world, and rightly so. Vote with your heart on 23 June. But don’t confuse freedom with power.


BREXIT

David Cameron Prime Minister

Frances O’Grady

John Longworth

Tariq Usmani

General Secretary, British Trades Union Congress

Former Director General, British Chambers Of Commerce

CEO, Henley Homes

IN

OUT

“There would be a really big risk to rights that matter to people’s real lives, from paid holidays to parental leave.”

“This European money could fund tens of thousands of extra nurses, doctors, policemen, teachers and soldiers. It could provide road bypasses, be used to lower business taxes and provide better digital connectivity.”

IN

“They say we would have more control. How exactly? Leaving the EU but remaining in the Single Market doesn’t give us more control, it just stops us from having any say over the rules of trade.”

Alan Joyce Chief Executive, Qantas IN “What has happened in the EU in terms of free trade and the growth of economic activity has been good for the UK and the EU.”

Chris Grayling Leader of the House of Commons OUT “More Europe is the only way for the euro to survive. But it’s no place for a proud, independent United Kingdom to be.”

Carolyn McCall Chief Executive, Easyjet IN “The EU has brought huge benefits for UK travellers and businesses. Staying in the EU will ensure that they, and all of us, continue to receive them.”

Barack Obama US President IN

“HAVING THE UNITED KINGDOM IN THE EUROPEAN UNION GIVES US MUCH GREATER CONFIDENCE ABOUT THE STRENGTH OF THE TRANSATLANTIC UNION.”

Michael Gove Secretary of State for Justice OUT “My starting point is simple. I believe that the decisions which govern all our lives, the laws we must all obey and the taxes we must all pay should be decided by people we choose and who we can throw out if we want change.”

Jeremy Corbyn Leader, Labour Party IN

“There is a strong socialist case for staying in the EU… just as there is also a powerful socialist case for reform.”

OUT

Jeremy Hunt Secretary of State for Health IN

“IT IS NOT JUST A QUESTION OF THE RISK TO THE POUNDS IN OUR POCKET, BUT TO THE POUNDS IN THE NHS BUDGET AS WELL. WE SHOULD NOT TAKE THAT RISK.” Lord O’Neill Former Chairman, Goldman Sachs OUT “We should not be scared of leaving [the European Union] and exploring a world without it. The opportunities that are arising from the dramatically changing world are huge.”

“As long as Britain’s trade policy is controlled by the EU, we cannot sign bilateral free-trade agreements with Pakistan, India, Bangladesh, Australia, New Zealand or, for that matter, any other non-EU state.”

Sajid Javid Secretary of State for Business IN “Survey after survey shows that small businesses – the backbone of our economy – want to stay inside the EU rather than take a leap in the dark.”

Damian Green Former Minister of State for Immigration IN

“Our national security is at risk if we leave the EU... Britain’s intelligence agencies, who we charge with keeping us safe, see this closer co-operation as absolutely vital for Britain’s security.” JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 247


Is this our chance to take this country back?

t has certainly been a long road to the polling booths of 23 June, and by now you could be forgiven for feeling a twinge of referendum fatigue. But cheer up – if they ever have another one, we will all be long dead. Boredom is not what the political elite wants you to feel. They want you to feel fear. They want you to be utterly terrified of life outside of the European Union. From Downing Street to Broadcasting House, they want you to wake up in the middle of the night thinking, “Outside of the European Union, nobody can hear you scream.” Never mind that the UK has the fifth largest economy in the world. Never mind that even if we left the EU, the UK would remain a member of Nato, G20, G7, G8, the United Nations Security Council and the Eurovision Song Contest. Never mind that the Germans are unlikely to refuse to sell us their lovely cars and washing machines. The campaign to keep us shackled to the rotting corpse of the EU has been built on stoking fear of the unknown. Fear of migrant camps sprouting in the green fields of the Home Counties. Fear of Vladimir Putin murdering you in your bed. And – above all – fear of what leaving the EU might do to the pound in your pocket. And “Project Fear” seems to have worked out rather well. 248 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016

Those of us who dream of the UK reclaiming control over British laws, courts and borders have often reached for lyrical rhetoric to make our case. We have spoken of the generations who fought and died to make our country free. We have talked of our ancient nation, free for 1,000 years, the home of parliamentary democracy. But this referendum, like last year’s general election, will be decided by that solitary moment in the polling booth when the lonely voter decides who he trusts with his wallet. After all, in the booth, money drowns out every other sound. David Cameron’s Project Fear has always argued that the road out of the European Union is identical to the highway to hell. It is a strong, emotive argument that may well swing the vote in favour of staying. But Project Fear has one major and possibly fatal flaw. The European Union isn’t working.

Whatever our dishonest establishment claims, the European superstate is doomed. Next month’s referendum is Britain’s best chance to avoid being dragged down with it The argument to remain would have

us believe that being in the EU keeps us prosperous and safe. But if this is the case, then why are there 17m unemployed in the Eurozone? Why is there widespread austerity and misery? Why are pensioners committing suicide in the public squares of Athens? Why is there 75 per cent youth unemployment in parts of Italy? And if the EU keeps us safe, then why were there two terrorist massacres in the centre of Paris in 2015, enabled by open borders? For those of us who dream of regaining our country, it seems screamingly obvious that the EU makes nobody safe and nobody prosperous – apart from the rag bag of bureaucrats and politicians who ride the gravy train between Brussels and Strasbourg. It is not the European Union that has maintained the peace in Europe for more than 70 years. It’s Nato. And bailing out of the EU doesn’t mean we would stop co-operating

It seems screamingly obvious that the EU makes nobody safe and nobody prosperous

Illustration Sam Kerr

By Tony Parsons


BREXIT with our European neighbours in the fight against Islamic terror – why would it? How can taking control of our borders make any nation less safe? “Leap in the dark!” Cameron continually prattles like an Old Etonian parrot. “Leap in the dark! Leap in the dark!” And yes, we must concede there is a degree of uncertainty in leaving because it would mark the beginning of the end for the European Union. They will not wish us well. We should not expect them to. But is the nation that faced down Nazi Germany, the IRA and Islamic State really too timid to endure a hissy fit from Brussels? And it is patently absurd to believe that other nations would stop trading with the UK if we quit. We buy far more from them than they do from us! Last year the EU exported over £226bn worth of goods to the UK while we exported only £147bn worth of goods to them. We love Italian clothes, French wine, Spanish vegetables, German motors. Why would they stop taking our money? What would be in it for them?

D   

espite what David Cameron, George Osborne and all their Labour allies tell you, the UK is not a weak, impoverished land that would shrivel and die outside of this dysfunctional superstate. The UK is one of the big swinging dicks of the global economy. The British economy is expected to overtake Germany by 2030 – although probably it will be much sooner now that mad chancellor Angela Merkel has invited the developing world to come and stay. Brussels wants us to stick around. Why wouldn’t it? We are the second biggest net contributor to the EU after Germany, currently shipping £350m a week to Brussels. Most EU members are takers, not givers. That £350m we blow on the EU every week could be spent on lowering taxes, creating jobs, building infrastructure. Whatever short-term wobble an independent UK suffers, it will be more than made up for by a long-term gain, unshackled from the ever-expanding, hopelessly atrophying Eurozone. The UK’s economy is increasingly becoming less reliant on the European Union as a market. In 2015, for the second year in a row, UK sales to EU countries fell behind our sales to the rest of the world. Locked in the open grave of the single currency – unable to devalue, unable to grow – the 19 members of the Eurozone are feeling the pinch. The UK’s fastest-growing markets are now China, India, South Korea and the US. The future is global not local. So if we stay in the European Union it will not be because our membership makes us prosperous and safe

You can have an NHS and a welfare state. Or you can have limitless immigration. You can’t have both – it does neither. If we stay in the EU it will be because we were too frightened to leave. If you live in an affluent corner in London

then your experience of the European Union is likely to be totally benign. It is only in odd, unexpected moments you realise the magnitude of what has happened to this country. If I go to the United States or Australia or my wife’s country, Japan, the nationals all enter their country through one immigration line while the rest of the world enters through another. But when I fly into Heathrow, I get into line with the citizens of 27 other EU nations. As if we all have exactly the same right to be here. As if this is not really my country any more. It is a disorientating, depressing feeling. For many of our people, especially the old and the young, I suspect the feeling of their country slipping away never fades – not if they are fighting like a rat in a sack for somewhere to live or a school place for their child or a GP’s appointment. And the feeling doesn’t fade for workers who have seen their wages deflated by an influx of limitless cheap labour. The only beneficiary of an endless supply of cheap labour is big business, which is why so many of them are keen that the UK stays within the EU.

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hichever way the country votes on 23 June, it will surely end the way all rotten ideas – communism, fascism, apartheid, the Berlin Wall, platform boots – eventually end. As a young man I travelled in General Franco’s Spain, wandered through Greece when it was ruled by a military junta and witnessed eastern Europe under the Soviet Union. They all seemed destined to last forever. And then one day they were gone. So it will be with the EU. Already there is a flight from free movement as the Continent reels under Merkel’s reckless RSVP to the developing world. Already there are rumblings about another Eurozone financial crisis. Already there is capital flight from European banks to the world’s new reserve currency – London property. Yet the

“Remainians” urge us to stay aboard this sinking ship. The UK has two unique pull factors – a massive black economy and the English language. If we stay in the EU, the economic migrants will keep coming and we will have no possibility of stopping them. The latest official yearly figures say that more than 336,000 newcomers arrived in the UK up to June 2015 – enough people to fill a city the size of Coventry. Nobody has explained how any nation can add the population of a major city every year and still provide enough housing, school places and hospital beds for everyone. Nobody will ever explain because it can’t be done. The bricks and mortar, the teachers and desks, the nurses and doctors – they don’t exist. Remaining inside the EU, we are sleepwalking into being a very different kind of country. You can have an NHS and a welfare state. Or you can have limitless immigration. But you can’t have both. The Office For National Statistics reckons at the current levels of immigration, the UK will need 880,000 new school places by 2023 and 240,000 new homes every year. Where will they come from? Nobody who wants the UK to stay in the EU can tell you. Cameron’s tinkering with child benefits for families from the Balkans will discourage nobody from coming here. But Osborne’s new Living Wage will encourage millions. How about that for a leap in the dark! Inside or outside the European Union, there is change ahead for the UK. There is the temporary economic uncertainty that will come if the UK summons up the courage to take our destiny into our own hands or there is the change that will come if we stay in a socially unstable, economically stagnant European Union as it keeps getting bigger and poorer. This drift towards a bankrupt superstate is not waiting a bit further down the autobahn. It is happening now. So whichever way you vote in the referendum, don’t let the Little Europeans kid you that a vote to stay is a vote for the status quo. There is no status quo. There is only change. And the same nagging question. Have we finally built up the nerve to take our country back? JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 249


‘In America they divide jokes into yes, maybe, no. We have yes, forbidden and jail’ 250 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016

Photographs Belal Mohamed

Funny people: Cast, crew and friends of Saturday Night Live Arabia during the first show’s broadcast at Studio Misr, Cairo, 20 February 2016; (opposite) Islam Ibrahim starring as Ack Man


SATURDAY NIGHT LIVE

Heard the one about the iconic American sketch show that went to Egypt? GQ goes behind the scenes of Saturday Night Live Arabia and discovers the perils of producing satire amid repression and violence in a region where there are more taboos than comedians STORY BY

Caroline Davies

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Giggle room (above, from left): Shadi Alfons and Khalid Monsour in a writers’ meeting for Saturday Night Live Arabia, 21 February 2016; (above centre) the crew for the new Arabic version of the long-running American comedy television series film a street scene at Studio Misr in Cairo the previous day

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Both are shaven-headed; Alfons is the shorter, more muscular and assertive of the pair. Like many of the US cast members, both combine writing and performing: Alfons plays the policeman, the stern doctor and the frustrated TV exec. Mansour, taller and a touch slighter, is gentler, cast in the roles of schoolteacher and over-enthusiastic TV presenter. They laugh easily. Both are chain smoking. The joke is marked in blue. The writers go on. “The government is considering adding more restrictions on porn,” says one. “Please be joking,” says another. When the team at Saturday Night Live Arabia write a sketch, they have three piles. “In America they divide them into yes, maybe, no. We have yes, haram [forbidden] and jail.” Ladies and gentlemen, from downtown Cairo, it’s Saturday Night Live.

‘The SNL style of comedy is what we’re good at. We knew we could do it here’ Shadi Alfons

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gypt’s version of Saturday Night Live, the American late-night comedy sketch show, has been pulled together from scratch in less than two years. In the United States, the programme is an institution. Since its launch in 1975 and over the course of its 41 seasons, it has launched the careers of Mike Myers, Eddie Murphy, Bill Murray, Tina Fey, Will Ferrell, Amy Poehler and many more besides. Egypt is not the first country to take on the franchise – others include Spain, Brazil and South Korea – but it’s one of the most surprising. The format is untested, the comedy is alien, even the brand has limited impact in the Middle East. How will the region take to a very American export? More importantly, how will they do a topical comedy show where political dissent can equal jail time? Even executive producer Tarek El Ganainy, who has a reputation for taking risks and a quiet confidence that could calm a skittish investor, wasn’t sold when he first heard the production rights to the season were on offer. “I still wonder today whether it was a wise decision to take it on,” Ganainy says when we meet in his office. He was schooled in the US, where he used to sneak out from his dorm every Saturday and climb through the common room window to watch the show. Slender with short cropped dark hair, he speaks carefully, pausing before answering. His desk has a box of dates from Saudi Arabia stacked on top of

Photographs Belal Mohamed

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id you hear they want to change the expression ‘Go to hell’ to “Go to Egypt”? Apparently we’re more dangerous...” We’re in the production offices of Saturday Night Live Arabia two days before the launch and the writers are pitching skits based on the week’s headlines. “Google want to take over Egypt,” says one. The team of five writers and performers are shouting out lines inspired by this week’s papers. Happy Meal toys, cigarette packets and discarded scripts are scattered across the glass table. Posters of SNL hosts of the past line the wall – Ben Stiller looks down, one eyebrow cocked. The call to prayer wafts through the mosquito-netted window; it’s nearly sundown. “Wait, is that the joke?” “No I think they actually do.” “Have they seen the speed of our internet?” One of the producers wanders in to announce that pizza has arrived. There’s some jibbing about his baggy jeans. He’s lost 30lbs from stress since starting on the project five months ago. “Egypt’s policemen are becoming depressed because they’re insulted so often.” Shadi Alfons looks up from his phone, where he’d been scanning through last week’s comedy sketch from US SNL, chuckling. He is sitting next to Khalid Mansour. Two of Egypt’s most well-loved comedians, they’ve been a driving force behind the SNL project since work began on it 18 months ago. “Yeah,” he says, “but we need to be careful with that.”


SATURDAY NIGHT LIVE

Rough sketch (above right, from left): Saturday Night Live Arabia cast members Islam Ibrahim, Hazem Ehab and Noor Kadry in the dressing rooms of Studio Misr, Cairo, during the filming of the show, 20 February 2016

one from Hotel Chocolat: international gifts. “It’s a lot of work. Not only that, but they’ve had 41 years to make it this good. You’re comparing me to New York in year 41? I’m in Cairo in year one.” But he wouldn’t be creating it alone. That same year, 2014, the world’s most successful Arabic comedy show had been pulled off air after its host cited safety concerns. Mansour and Alfons, two of its stars, were looking for a new project. Both knew and loved SNL. “That style of comedy is what we’re good at,” says Alfons. “We knew we could do it here.” Alfons, Mansour and Ganainy spent a week with the team in the US, following the crew from start to finish. “On the first day there I didn’t say a word,” says Ganainy. “I had to go back to my hotel room and process it. I kept thinking, ‘Why am I doing this? This is insane.’” America may have led the way, but Egypt couldn’t follow the same path. In a country with a limited stand-up comedy scene, writers, directors, performers, producers, set designers and crew were pulled from different corners of the entertainment industry. For many it’s their first TV show, including director Amr Salama. “I was totally out of my depth,” he says. Quietly spoken, Salama is better known for his prejudice-challenging films, including Asmaa, which addressed Egypt’s response to Aids. “I read the Bible over and over.” He’s not referring to the religious text, but the “how to” book the US SNL team gave to their

Egyptian counterparts. The exact contents are closely guarded. Presumably the trade secrets did not come cheap: they are not for sharing. Finding a cast that could sing, dance and impersonate as well as handle a live audience was a challenge; Egypt doesn’t have much stand-up or improv, a natural feeder for SNL. Writers, too, were a pain to find; while America has hundreds of thousands looking for a gig like SNL, Egypt has more in the region of ten, most of them already tied up in projects. This has meant that unlike the US team, where performers work two weeks on and two weeks off, the entire team on the Arabic version have to work on every episode. All 26. It wasn’t only a cast and crew they had to find. As in the US, each week a different celebrity hosts the show; everyone from Tom Hanks to Donald Trump has accepted the nominal fee. Persuading Egyptian superstars, accustomed to

‘On my first day I kept thinking, “Why am I doing this? This is insane”’ Tarek El Ganainy

high fees for an hour interview, to perform on an unknown comedy show was a challenge. “We were asking them to work with us for 45 to 50 hours for about half the amount of money they are used to,” says Ganainy. “We sounded insane.” Once you’ve assembled the team, you have to make a show. SNL’s humour is not common in Egypt, where most comedy is one-liners or slapstick; surreal sketches are rare. Writers had to think carefully about how to introduce it. One sketch shows a vending machine that’s become Egyptian after spending too long on the street. It barters, gives gum instead of change and sucks up to policemen. It’s not only the style of comedy, but the content. Comedians can always rely on politics, sex and religion. If they’re taboo, how do you find the humour? Politics, for one, can be done by proxy. Real political figures might be out of bounds, but fake ones are not. One character is the “minister for happiness”, a post uncannily similar to one newly appointed in the UAE. When asked her policies, she says she plans to arrest all Egypt’s tragic actors, poets and singers “because they are making us sad”. Anyone feeling unhappy must apply for a permit, unless you are part of the government, in which case you can have a blue one, allowing unlimited sadness. Sex is by suggestion; you need a dirty mind to get the jokes. A controversial sketch about a husband shop has so far avoided the cuttingroom floor. When one woman tries to return JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 253


Photographs Belal Mohamed

International lampoon (clockwise from above): The show’s spoof of the TV series Arab Idol, entitled Tarab Idol; Donia Samir Ghanem in a Red Riding Hood parody that aired on 20 February 2016; Yara Fahmy and Elwy Elhusseny filming a sketch revolving around a vending machine, broadcast on the same night

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SATURDAY NIGHT LIVE an earlier purchase, the shop owner refuses. “He’s been maftooh.” (Maftooh means opened, but it’s also used to describe women who have lost their virginity.) Religious jokes are rare. The show and its creators know too well that there are boundaries. Alfons and Mansour made their names on Al Bernameg (it translates as The Show), a political satire in the same vein as The Daily Show. In early 2011, as revolutions swept the Middle East, Bassem Youssef, a cardiac surgeon, created a YouTube channel in his laundry room. It became wildly popular. Within nine episodes, he had a television deal, a theatre and a live audience. By its second season it was reaching 40 million viewers. Every Friday night, Cairo’s streets were deserted, the whole of the city crammed into cafés or a front room, anywhere to watch a screen. But not everyone loved them. Throughout its run, according to Alfons, Al Bernameg received near weekly threats and lawsuits. Protestors stood outside the theatre before most shows. Some thought they were hired in, partly to damage the show’s reputation but also to intimidate the cast. In 2014, Youssef announced that the show would end, saying that the present climate was not suitable for a political satire programme. He was tired of struggling and worrying about the safety of himself and his family. Back in the writing room, the team are slumped, exhausted, over the table. One is absent-mindedly playing with a plastic Super Mario toy, the others flicking up and down through scripts on their laptop. They could be here until 3am before filming tomorrow. When should we join them in the morning? “It’s Friday. We’ll need to pray first. We’ll let you know after.”

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hile we wait for permission to be granted from a higher power, we head to downtown Cairo, the area of the city still known for artists and revolutionaries. It borders Tahrir Square, which became synonymous with the revolutions across the Arab world in the spring of 2011. At a café known as Cultural Symposium, men with dreadlocks and women without headscarves sit drinking chai on bashed wooden chairs on the pavement in the sunshine. But people watching isn’t a pastime, it’s part of survival. Asim, my Cairo-based friend, is smoking more than ever. “Wouldn’t you?” he asks through teeth clamped around the filter as he tries to light a Lucky Strike against the dusty wind. “I barely leave my flat. I still don’t feel safe. Last week the police raided our block, just because we are in downtown. They barged in and seized laptops. I heard they arrested a

‘I hope that the world feels proud of Egyptians when they see this show’ Nancy Salah human-rights lawyer and his two flatmates. I’m not sure where they are now.” Being part of the artistic community in Cairo isn’t easy; creativity is unpredictable and eyed with suspicion. Revolutionary cafés have closed, galleries have been raided, publishers been shut down and theatres locked up by the authorities. The clampdown strengthened under President Sisi, who ousted the Muslim Brotherhood in the summer of 2013. “The time of the Brotherhood was much easier,” says Asim. “Not because they allowed us to be free, but because they couldn’t stop us. They were so weak.” Not so under Sisi, the ex-military general who has been called an Egyptian Putin. Since he came to power, more than 1,000 people have been killed and 41,000 jailed for dissent. Two burly men in leather jackets pass our table. Asim raises an eyebrow, exhaling cigarette smoke. “Look at their shoes.” They are polished black leather, long and formal, incongruous with the men’s jeans. “Secret police. They wear the same ones whether they are undercover or not. They don’t even try to hide. We should go.” We walk to Tahrir Square. Six-foot-high rolls of rusting barbed-wire barricades are casually pushed to one side of the road. Pedestrians stream around them, barely noticing. Bullish young men in military uniform and army boots fondle their rifles, some with faces covered by balaclavas, clocking the passers-by. No one even loiters in Tahrir now.

he day’s shoot is on the outskirts of Cairo. We take an Uber out of the city, the pyramids just visible in the distance. The high-rise slums push the boundaries of the city further out into the green agricultural pastures that surround Cairo. As we trundle along the desert road that leads to Alexandria, the private gated communities roll into view. They are dotted across the outskirts of the city with names like Hyde Park, Beverly Hills and Utopia; quiet residential streets, with security at the gates. The driver peers at his iPhone,

trying to find our street, which is marked “unnamed road”. When we eventually draw up, the set is swarming. We wander through the line of trucks parked up on the dusty street, as stage hands, lighting engineers, make-up artists, techies and runners stream past us in the midday heat. They are filming “digital shorts” – the kind of on-location sketches made famous on the American SNL by Andy Samberg and The Lonely Island. Today’s is inside a palm-lined mansion. Several runners are lounging on a mattress propped up on the outdoor marble steps that lead to the polished front door, waiting for someone to request a tea. Egyptian productions are often big – some say they haven’t downscaled since the days of black and white films – but this number is almost double the norm for a TV show; the entire production employs around 240 people, with costs more in line with an Egyptian film. There is no better place to create a Middle Eastern comedy show than Egypt, the region’s Hollywood, making and distributing films since the turn of the century. Just as American English dominates the English-speaking world, most of the Arabic-speaking world can follow Egyptian Arabic, its slang and its politics.

hat doesn’t mean that the other countries are ignored. The sketches play off the region’s accents and stereotypes. One follows a job interview where a would-be employee pretends to be from different countries to give herself a better shot at getting the job – Lebanese (sexy), Moroccan (difficult to understand), and Kuwaiti (she announces that she arrived in a Ferrari). A man with a large moustache and a voice that sounds like he’s used to commanding an army storms outside shouting for someone to take up some tea. We follow the runner, who carries a tray with two tulip-shaped glasses of black tea, up the stairs to the dressing rooms. Alfons and Mansour lounge on a bed, smoking and prepping for the next scene. The curtain is drawn against the sun, turning the room a nicotine yellow. Mansour is quiet. “I only slept four hours last night,” he says. “It happens a lot after we finish writing. I can’t stop my mind going over it all. ‘Is that funny? Why was it funny when we said it this way and not that? How can we make it sharper?’” Next door in the white-tiled make-up room, resident character actor Islam Ibrahim is reading over his script. The mirror is lit with bare light bulbs, a box of wigs and facial hair overflowing in the corner, a caliph’s long white beard rolled in a ball. Today Ibrahim is playing Ack Man, a lacklustre, ageing superhero who puffs to the rescue in a beige suit with an electric-blue cape. The make-up artist has a tray of eyeshadow and offensively bright lipstick; Ibrahim is JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 255


“I don’t know what the producers will think about us going that far, but if the show is going to survive as the true essence of what SNL is, then they’re going to have to deal with it.” All admire Bassem Youssef, and his audience figures, but it doesn’t mean they want to copy him. One producer told me that although he was hilarious, it was at times uncomfortable. “I liked 80 per cent of the show,” he says. “But I don’t think certain topics are funny to talk about. Events that have seriously harmed the country; why would you joke about that?” This show has a weekly news slot, where Alfons and Mansour mock the week’s headlines. The two present in front of an Eighties-style backdrop of a blue and yellow world map, buttoned up in smart news-anchor style suits. Those who’ve seen Al Bernameg or The Daily Show might recognise the setup, but this section is far less acerbic. Most of the political jokes are directed internationally (“Putin says he has a surprise for the world. Surprise! Happy Third World War”) and although they touch on political issues (“An Israeli magazine has said that the Israeli army are worried that Egypt has bought more satellites. Don’t worry, they’re to spy on us, not you”) they are mixed in with softer one-liners, this week a joke about a well-known buxom Egyptian dancer. “We aren’t going in hard yet,” says Alfons. “I want to be welcomed into someone’s home first before I start insulting them.” Many of SNL Arabia’s cast are yet to know

the full glare of the spotlight, let alone the suspicion of the authorities. If the show’s boldness grows, both will intensify. For now, the cast are carefree. Between scenes, they skip through the corridors and lounge in each other’s dressing rooms, smoking and chatting. Rihanna’s “Bitch Better Have My Money” wafts down the corridor, sung by Mansour and met with howls of laughter. The first show goes out tomorrow.

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riday night and I’ve been invited to a house party. “It’s rare to find a journalist in Cairo now,” one girl tells me, swigging a bottle of Egyptian beer. The music blares out over a quiet Cairo, noughties tunes and bass. One room has been cleared for a dance floor where men and women are grinding, waving cigarettes. The crowd are a mixture of Egyptians and a scattering of international residents. None here know how long they’ll stay. The girl nods. “And now the researchers are leaving too.” In early February, the body of an Italian researcher studying for a PhD at Cambridge was found by the side of a road in outer Cairo. A senior prosecutor said there were injuries on his body consistent with torture including cigarette burns. The Egyptian authorities initially suggested he had been in a traffic accident. Some universities have reportedly recalled

The devil you know (below, from left): Mahmoud Ellisy, Toni Maher and Merna Gameel starring in Saturday Night Live Arabia on 21 March; Tina Fey as Sarah Palin and Darrell Hammond as Donald Trump in a sketch from the American series, 23 January 2016

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Photograph Getty Images

also the resident drag queen. He’ll be playing a loud Kuwaiti female judge in a sketch ripping off Arab Idol, the audition show, later. “I just want to make people laugh,” he says. The make-up artist dabs white paint through his black hair. “It’s not about making trouble.” Politics is not the main motivation for most of those involved in the production; the majority signed on because they were offered the chance to work on a programme of this magnitude. For several of the actors, this is their big break and their first time performing comedy. I meet actor Nancy Salah when she bounces over to give me an all-encompassing hug. With her glowing complexion, chalk-white teeth and almond eyes, she’s teasingly referred to by the other cast members as the face of Egypt; she was recently used in a tourism campaign. “I hope that the world feels proud of the Egyptians when they see this show,” she says, beaming. Her hair is pulled up in pigtails and she’s dressed in school uniform for this afternoon’s sketch. “I don’t see that there’s any difference between the sketches the US version is doing and ours, only the faces.” The week after the first SNL Arabia is broadcast, American SNL covers the US election. They parody Trump, comparing his campaign to Hitler’s, with the comedian signing off Trump’s speech, “I have a great big huge dick.” Political parodies are noticeably absent from the Arabic version of the show, but Alfons says it’s only a matter of time.


SATURDAY NIGHT LIVE researchers working on projects in the country. Cairo feels volatile. Yesterday, part of the city was effectively shut down after a clash between police and locals. A policeman shot a driver dead in broad daylight after an argument. A local mob tried to kill him in revenge. The previous week, thousands of doctors protested, saying the police had beaten two doctors who refused to falsify medical records. During my week in Egypt, a four-year-old boy is given a life sentence for murder. After the ensuing global outcry, the military admitted they had made a mistake. A cake arrives and the party bursts into “Happy Birthday” in a variety of accents. The birthday boy tries to persuade every girl at the party to give him a kiss. I accompany Asim on a hunt for cigarettes.

‘Live comedy is not something I think any regime would want to deal with’ Shadi Alfons

We meander a fair distance, down back roads in the hope of finding somewhere open. One turning leads us to a path blocked by a tank, parked in the middle of a darkened street. It’s a security measure for a nearby ministry, a grey, soulless tower block which looms over the potholed road we are in. We retrace our steps.

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aturday morning is bright. The cast arrive one by one to the theatre, sunglasses on, cigarette boxes in hand. The Saturday Night Live Arabia sign looms over the courtyard, the freshly painted set is gleaming and red velvet theatre seats are pristine, but there will be no audience here today; tonight’s debut was recorded a month ago. The show I’ve witnessed them put together will go out in three weeks. The Dubai-based TV channel doesn’t have the capacity to run a live show. But there’s also the matter of the authorities. “Live comedy is not something I think any regime would want to deal with,” says Alfons. “The only thing that goes live here are talk shows and the news.” Ganainy isn’t concerned. The decision at this stage about what stays or goes lies with the network. Most content from the West is allowed to air as is, meaning that a Game Of Thrones sex scene could be broadcast in full. “Well,” says Ganainy, “sex scenes never overthrew a government.” With content like SNL’s, the political response isn’t the major concern. It’s the audience who can be the harshest judge. “That’s the most terrifying thing for me,” says head writer George Azmy. “There’s state censorship where you can go to jail, but the people are also very sensitive. The culture is agitated. Everyone is waiting to be offended and fight their corner. If you say something you’re taking sides; if you don’t then you’re out of tune. It’s a minefield. We just have to see what the audience think is acceptable.” Comedians have been taken to court for defaming the president, insulting Islam, insulting the police and even “spreading false news”. The atmosphere in today’s Egypt is very different to the one Bassem Youssef launched in. “What happened with Youssef could never be done again,” says Ganainy. “The world was against the Muslim Brotherhood. Everything he did was acceptable. [After President Sisi came to power] he couldn’t joke about the Brotherhood any more; they were in jail.” For some, Youssef’s legacy is bittersweet. His shows, still watched on YouTube, recall a freer time, but his popularity and ridicule of the Muslim Brotherhood are thought to have contributed to their weakening authority and ultimately, to President Sisi. Comedy can change the world, but there’s no predicting how.

Today’s scenes are set in a desert tent, a mechanic’s workshop and a talent show. Hundreds of crew step carefully over wires and camera rail tracks. I watch the director’s monitor as the crane-mounted camera swings down to find the action. The actors in overstated poses on the Technicolor set, poised like runners on the start line, itching to begin once the imagined audience’s applause stops. It feels like SNL. “It’s one thing if people don’t like it, but if you don’t do it right then that’s the disaster. It has to be about the details,” says Ganainy. “You don’t want to be the guy that failed with SNL; it’s like losing the race when you’re driving the Lamborghini.” Family and friends begin to arrive, taking selfies with the Saturday Night Live Arabia sign illuminating the courtyard. Trays of nibbles arrive; mini hotdogs and sweet Egyptian pastries. One by one the cast emerge from their dressing rooms. We’re ushered inside the theatre to watch the show on screen. Tonight’s audience will be payto-view; in April it was scheduled to be broadcast for free across Egypt. We sit through an advert for alcohol-free beer, an Ariel promotion where mothers in hijabs fuss over children in dirty uniforms and a trailer for the new series of Girls. The first episode fills the screen and tweets start to flow in. Pictures of the cast, retweets of jokes, encouragement. “All of you are very talented, actually.” “Brother Khalid [Mansour], you have created something very funny.” “Hilarious! Keep up the good work.” “There’s an SNL Arabia?” The cast shout in delight as they spot them, passing their phones around the pitch-black theatre. It’s gone well. Ganainy tells me that the viewing figures have been historically high, although he won’t divulge exactly how high. “But also, sometimes, you just know,” he says, discreetly delighted. In the weeks that follow, the show tops eight million online views in less than 24 hours, but also sees its first controversy. A Tunisian actress hosting the show, who is also a lawyer and UN ambassador, will sing a song suggesting the slipper is the “Arab mother’s friend”, prompting some to say the cast are promoting child abuse. “Man,” says one tweet. “The folks at SNL Arabia have a tough job.”

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CAROLINE VREELAND Vintage trench coat by Céline. At What Goes Around Comes Around. whatgoesaroundnyc.com. Bra, £50. Knickers, £50. Both by Hopeless. hopelesslingerie.com.au

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Rank the following in order of priority: red wine, sex, pasta, music, fashion. You guys really did your research on me here! That makes me feel good. But you also knew how hard this one would be for me. OK. Here goes: sex, pasta, music, wine, fashion. Tinder or IRL? Always real life. I would sooner sit alone at a bar. Although let us not forget that lonely is always sexy. Snapchat or Instagram? Snapchat forever. Topless selfies à la Emily Ratajkowski and Kim Kardashian: for or against? I think as long as it’s not mean-spirited, people should be allowed to express themselves however they want. Definitely for. I’m a “prefers to be naked” person as well. What book changed your life and why? Crime And Punishment by Fyodor Dostoyevsky. I was fascinated with the idea of the power of the human mind and how someone can convince themselves they are infallible, above the law, and can even justify murder. Spooky stuf. What album would be the soundtrack to your day today? Buena Vista Social Club. I’m in a good mood today. What gets you out of bed in the morning? The idea that I’m in the process of building something that can hopefully one day make a diference in people’s lives. When was the greatest kiss of your life and with whom? An ex who shall not be named... Who kissed me so intensely through my car window as I was leaving his house that I had to pull over for ten minutes. Also one time I made a lover keep her eyes on me the entire time she was coming; we kissed with both our eyes open. It was intense. What is your favourite physical feature? My eyes. What is your favourite character trait? My ability to feel other people’s pain and my ability to laugh at myself. What great song lyric do you wish you had written? Antony And The Johnsons’ “For Today I Am A Boy” is so heartfelt and raw and honest about people not feeling they were born as the right sex. Rights for all people of all sexual identities is a huge thing with me. What is your worst habit? I interrupt and I have a big mouth. What was the last text you sent? A text at 1am to one of my tattoo guys pestering him about whether or not I could go in the pool or the bath with my new back tattoo – both of which I knew I shouldn’t do but did anyway. What’s your favourite thing about LA? Jumbo’s Clown Room [strip club], and my mom lives here. Tell us a secret about yourself. My breasts are real and I read books about dragons. 270 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016

Ballgown by August Getty, £6,240. augustgetty.com. Knickers by Hopeless, £50. hopelesslingerie.com.au. Boots by Kurt Geiger, £160. kurtgeiger.com. Choker by Natalie Chapman, £50. nataliechapman.com.au


CAROLINE VREELAND

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CAROLINE VREELAND Vintage bodysuit by Alaïa. Vintage blazer by Chanel. Both at What Goes Around Comes Around. whatgoesaroundnyc.com. Tights by Wolford, £145. wolfordshop.co.uk. Shoes by Soebedar, £370. soebedar.eu. Earrings by Britt Bolton, £122. brittbybritt.com

Hair Johnnie Sapong at Jed Root using Leonor Greyl Make-up Sarah Uslan at Jed Root using Chanel Bleu EDP and La Solution 10 Photographic assistants Andrew Roque; Phil Sanchez Digital technician Miguel De Leon Production Barbie Duarte at 3 Star Productions

Opposite: Vintage trenchcoat by Céline. At What Goes Around Comes Around. whatgoesaroundnyc.com. Bra, £50. Knickers, £50. Both by Hopeless. hopelesslingerie.com.au. Shoes by Christian Louboutin, £895. christianlouboutin.com

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Good times! For three spectacular years, Hollywood’s A-list flocked to Santa Monica Boulevard for riotous nights at the ultimate roller disco – an art deco pleasure-drome with a vintage wine list, quail’s eggs and blue suede skates on the menu. Here’s how two eccentric Englishmen drove LA wild at Flipper’s Roller Boogie Palace STORY BY

274 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016

Sean Macaulay


ROLLER DISCO

Photographs Cisco Dietz; Flickr/Xanadu Fitness; Getty Images

Big rollers (clockwise from top left): Rod Stewart and Alana Hamilton at Flipper’s Roller Boogie Palace, 13 September 1979; skaters at play, 1979; Arnold Schwarzenegger and future wife Maria Shriver, 1 June 1980; Prince performs, 31 March 1981


Paris in the Belle Epoque had the Moulin Rouge, with its ebullient cancan girls. Havana in the days before Castro had the Tropicana, with its sequined Flesh Goddesses. Ancient Rome under Emperor Nero had the Golden House, a citadel of depravity with a revolving banquet room ceiling hand-cranked by slaves. Only Los Angeles, however, could have conjured up such a legendary shrine to Spandex-clad hedonism as Flipper’s Roller Boogie Palace. For three fleeting, glorious years, from 1979 to 1981, this former bowling alley was the centre of Hollywood’s pleasure-seeking universe: a unique – and, alas, unrepeatable – convergence of pre-Aids sex, knee-length tube socks, Seventies drugs, four-on-the-floor disco fever, roller skates and English savoir-faire. Everyone had their first kiss at Flipper’s; their first line, their first everything. The venue boasted the largest glitter ball in the world and a gold domed roof you could see from the moon. Legend has it, Quentin Tarantino worked there as a junior skate guard and the place gets an affectionate namecheck in Jackie Brown. (Bridget Fonda says about a photo of herself, aged 14, on roller skates: “That was taken at a place called Flipper’s. Do you remember that? It was in Hollywood.”) The club was named after its flamboyant manager, Ian “Flipper” Ross, an Old Reptonian with a metal foot, who had set off for America to become the “Don Quixote of Roller Disco” after seeing a B-movie called Drive-In. That was only the beginning of the craziness: he later brought along his wife and five children, turning the madcap quest into a full-on Swiss Family Robinson adventure with jumpsuits and blow. I tracked down Ross, who’s now 73, at his villa in Calabria, where he agreed over a wobbly Italian phone line that it was finally 276 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016

shop window. Aged 17, he finagled a Jensen from the motor works where his father was a senior executive. “You can imagine the effect this had back in Haslemere. My God, the girls were piling in.” The fun was cut short when he collided head-on with a doubledecker bus. “It wasn’t my fault – for once. I wasn’t even speeding.” Doctors were able to save his right leg by putting wires in each toe (hence the nickname, by which friends still call him). “It’s a horrible zombie mutation of a foot,” he says, with an almost gleefully grotesque pride. “It’s like Francis Bacon drew a foot on a particularly bad day.” The injury meant Ross was never able to roller skate, but it does partially explain his Pentecostal reaction on seeing the skating scenes in Drive-In. “I really thought, ‘Roller skating! This is going to save the world.’” The year was 1977 and Ross was in the middle of an ill-fated excursion into the King’s Road fashion business: “We opened up some shops. And then everything went wrong.” Many of his best anecdotes turn on this last sentence. “The truth is I’m really no good at business. I can’t add up. I don’t like invoices. My father used to say, ‘You’re not a breadwinner. You’re not even a crumb-winner.’” The family, then expanded to five kids (Atticus, Milo, Holly, Mia and Liberty, with Leopold still to come), moved into a smaller house in Notting Hill (“long before it was fashionable”) and things looked decidedly bleak. “As a kid, you learn to pick up the signs,” says Atticus, the eldest. “Everyone else at day school got picked up by a smart nanny. I got met by a guy called Lance in a Ford Capri with flames down the side.” Then Ross stumbled across an article in the Evening Standard about “uptown girls going downtown” to the Empire Rollerdrome in Brooklyn. “I thought, ‘That’s it, I’m getting out of here. I’m going to New York to seek my fortune.’”

T Time to split: A dancer pauses mid-roll to strike a pose for the cameras at Flipper’s, 1979

‘I REALLY THOUGHT ROLLER SKATING WAS GOING TO SAVE THE WORLD’

he Empire was an all-black roller rink that had rejuvenated itself by replacing the traditional church organ with a sound system and live DJ. Boosted by the arrival of polyurethane wheels in 1976, the club gave birth to a vigorous new free-form dance craze – roller disco. Ross headed for the Empire with his pal, the tenth Earl of St Germans, completing the journey on foot because “the yellow cab wouldn’t take us”. The impact was seismic. “I’ve never, ever seen or felt anything like that place,” says Ross. “It was unbelievable. Seven, eight hundred people skating in unison at high speed on a wooden rink dressed to the nines. And this music, this heavy funk

Photographs Richard Young Archive; Flickr/Central1179; Getty Images

Every great city has a signature pleasure palace to sum up its golden age.

time to relive the whole Flipper’s saga. “It’s all part of the lost mythical kingdom now,” he sighs equably, settling in for a full evening’s reminiscence. Ross – as his 40-year trail of Daily Mail diary items can attest – is one of life’s great cavaliers, with a rolling upper-class bohemian drawl and undulating résumé to match. He has been thrown out of restaurants with Jerry Lee Lewis, written comic novels with Wodehousian verve and organised nautical expeditions to the immutably landlocked Caspian Sea (“I really thought we’d found a way through”). In the mid-Sixties, he cofounded ship-bound pirate station Radio Caroline and married a stunning It girl, Roxana “Bunty” Lampson (daughter of former ambassador Lord Killearn) after seeing her picture in Vogue. “Ian has always been led by his idea of the moment and pursues it to the full,” says Bunty Ross, when we talk in LA. “From the first day we met, he said, ‘I’m going to marry you.’ I said, ‘Absolutely not!’ and drove off in his MG... Here we are, 50 years later, still married.” Blessed with the good looks of a young James Hunt and the impulsiveness of Keith Moon at any age, young Ross was constitutionally impelled to seek increasingly outlandish paths. Aged 16, he wangled a driving licence only to crash a Vincent Black Shadow through a


ROLLER DISCO

Spin of: Patrick Swayze (second from right) and Skatetown USA co-stars line up for the premiere party, held at Flipper’s in 1979; (above) outside the venue on Santa Monica Boulevard, 1980 JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 277


Skate on (above, from left): Cisco Dietz’s reportage shots capture punk-era partygoers; Chuck Berry and friends; Smufy Smith (left) of Levi And The Rockats; (below, from left) An American Werewolf In London star David Naughton; Bunty and Ian ‘Flipper’ Ross with Nick Cash; the Flipper’s stage hosted live bands

Below, from left: Above the rink hung a giant glitter ball, which was reputed to be the largest in the world; ‘Flipper’ Ross, in white, with club-goers and famous LA DJ Rodney Bingenheimer; full house at the venue, 1979-1981

Below, from left: Flipper’s trademark blue suede skates, available for hire only; Shannon Wilhelm and Tifany Kennedy of death rock band Castration Squad; the club maître d’ Stan Wertlieb, photographed in the signature cream tuxedo that he wore every night until Flipper’s closed, 1979-1981


ROLLER DISCO booming out. The whole f***ing city block was shaking. You can’t believe what it was like. So cool, so beautiful: a rhythmic serpent of humanity. And we were welcomed in like brothers, the only two white guys in the place.” The core skaters at the club were a group called Vinzerelli And The Jigaboo Jammers. “Vinzerelli held court in the middle of the rink in this tacky yellow island with plastic palm trees. They wore robes and smoked these enormous doobies.” Ross was summoned to the island for a first meeting every bit as momentous as John Smith’s encounter with Pocahontas’ tribe, except Smith’s initiation didn’t include sharing a joint “the size of a Dead Sea Scroll”. “By the end of the night, we were bonded,” says Ross. “I became an honorary Jammer.” Ross and St Germans left The Empire determined to spread the gospel of roller disco, even though “the nearest thing we had to a coherent business plan was ‘Play That Funky Music, White Boy’.” Initial plans focused on trying to set up a movie. “We rustled up some video equipment to make a promo film, but it was a disaster. We switched on the camera lights and blinded all the Jigaboos. It caused a huge pile-up.” Next, they took a Hollywood producer down to the club. “But his limousine got demolished while he was inside and all his hubcaps stolen. He was not happy. ‘You told me this place was 90 per cent black,’ he said. ‘I have to tell you that it is 100 per cent black.’ That became quite a catchphrase for us: ‘100 per cent black.’”

Cordell flew Ross and St Germans to LA and a roundabout search began for a suitable venue. “Denny’s house was literally on the beach in Malibu,” says Ross. “So, my first day in LA, I wake up to see some old guy jogging by totally naked. ‘Have a nice day!’ Most days didn’t start until we’d had lunch at Le Dome – a bit of boudin noir and some decent plonk. We also had a thing called an ET, long before the movie – an edge trimmer, which was the remnants of last night’s joint rescued from the ashtray.” The perfect location was finally found at the old La Cienega Lanes bowling alley on Santa Monica Boulevard. The property was the largest piece of tropical art deco in LA (“It needed to be historic for Denny to be interested”) and, crucially, still had a liquor license. Remodelling work began and Ross called his wife, announcing, “The time has come!” “We arrived at LA airport like a bunch of gypsies,” says Bunty. “Five kids, three suitcases, going through immigration pretending we were just going on holiday.” “It was heaven,” says Milo, who was eight at the time. “We had an avocado tree in the garden. If we weren’t surfing at the beach, we were hanging out at the club.” The rink at Flipper’s was designed to look like a tropical lagoon with a 280ft wall mural featuring a Rousseau jungle and a Carmen Miranda portrait. “Denny wanted only the Free glide: In Flipper’s heyday, roller skating dominated American visual culture, 1979

Photographs Cisco Dietz; Richard Young Archive

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he crucial idea to export roller disco to Los Angeles came from rock impresario Denny Cordell, Ross’ best friend, who ran Shelter Records and produced artists such as Joe Cocker and Tom Petty. Cordell was something of an enigma, alternately easygoing and creative and then ruthlessly hard-hearted, especially in business. Born in Buenos Aires, Argentina, he had shaggy silver hair and wore Afghan coats or hand-tailored suits, depending on his mood. “Denny was an Ipanema beach boy with jazz in his soul,” says Ross. “And everything you can imagine in terms of street wisdom. He’d been Chet Baker’s manager when he was 17 living a basement in Paris. He’d been strung out on heroin. I was frightfully impressed.” After ascending into LA’s rock’n’roll royalty, Cordell took to driving a white Cadillac El dorado convertible while affecting the air of a country squire. He also knew a good investment when he saw it (with the glaring exception of David Bowie, whom he famously dismissed with the words “The c*** can’t sing”, and insisted until his death that pop history had yet to prove him wrong).

POT SMOKE FILLED THE AIR AND THE TWO BARS DID A ROARING TRADE

finest things in life,” says Ross. “He insisted we have VIP booths and quail’s eggs with Château Ausone on the menu. Very haute stuff, very haute. The boxes had to be moved three feet to the left. That was Denny.”

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state-of-the-art sound system was installed, along with a fancy polyurethane skating floor. Above the entrance sat a neon sign featuring a skating figure and the words: “Denny Cordell Presents Flipper’s Roller Boogie Palace.” Rogers & Cowan PR were hired and a stream of deluxe memberships sold, but as costs escalated under Cordell’s exacting supervision the club was obliged to take on another partner in the form of Motown founder Berry Gordy. “He was actually great,” says Ross. “He helped bring in stars like Smokey Robinson, because they’d all grown up skating in Detroit.” For opening night, the club commandeered a dozen search beams to light up the sky, with frantic mural painting still going on until the last moment. “We had our cocktail dresses in the car,” remembers artist Carol Bennett. “There were three of us hanging off the ladder as we finished the last two feet of wall.” From then on, the celebrities came flooding in: Jane Fonda, Rick James, Jon Voight, Jim Brown, Robin Williams, Britt Ekland, OJ Simpson, Olivia Newton John. Cher had her own booth (“No1”) and customised skates with wheels that folded out like aircraft landing gear. Tori Spelling held her eighth birthday party there, with a pink and white cake to match her roller skates (“an unforgettable milestone for me,” she wrote in her 2012 book on party planning, CelebraTORI). Dustin Hoffman wasn’t so lucky: the bouncers failed to recognise him and chucked him down the stairs. Just like at the Empire, Flipper’s had a central stage with palm trees, which skaters could pass underneath, and a house DJ (a towering black guy called Doctor Love). The club also had a relaxed attitude towards refreshments, despite a recent “Disco Forum” safety report warning rink owners that “skating and alcohol are a danger, not only to the skater, but to all around him”. In the carefree palatial recesses of Flipper’s, pot smoke filled the air and the two bars did a roaring trade. “I just remember how f***ing strong the drinks were,” says Jeff Jourard, who played guitar with house band Leroy And The Lifters. “A single at Flipper’s was like a triple anywhere else. They had tropical drinks with umbrellas. They had drinks that were on fire. At least one person a night was being carried out on a stretcher holding a bag of ice.” Skaters were obliged to sign a legal waiver, but that only seemed to add to the JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 279


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or the next two years, Flipper’s rode the wave of roller disco as it exploded from ethnic subculture to national phenomenon. Episodes of CHiPs and Charlie’s Angels were filmed at the club. Skating movies were released, including Roller Boogie, starring Linda Blair and Skatetown, USA with Patrick Swayze. Novelty songs bombarded the charts such as “Bounce, Rock, Shake, Roll” and “Roller Skatin’ Mate” and Cher recorded an AOR roller disco anthem, “Hell On Wheels”. Even tuxedo-clad Chic had a skating reference in their hit “Good Times”: “Don’t be a drag, participate/Clams on the half shell and roller skates”. Flipper’s all-inclusive party vibe seemed to hit the right note of Rainbow Coalition debauchery after the hard glamour era of New York’s Studio 54. “Flipper’s put people together who would never otherwise be under the same roof,” says celebrity hairdresser Carrie White, who wrote about her nights at the club in Upper Cut: Highlights Of My Hollywood Life. “That was the luxury of the place. Nobody cared what religion you were, what colour, what sexuality. I would usually take home one of the gorgeous black skate instructors.” The Ross clan – now with a sixth child on the way – crammed into a two-bedroom former gay bachelor pad in the Hollywood Hills, and the kids settled into their new life as royal offspring at the rink. “We had the run of the place,” says Mia Ross. “We could go to the bar and get a free Shirley Temple. Get some quarters for the arcade games.” 280 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016

“We used to push Liberty around the rink in her pram,” says Holly. “Then the DJs would carry us around on their shoulders.” “It was a unique education,” says Milo, who now manages bands such as Palma Violets. “One DJ showed me how to put a line of cocaine around a seven-inch record, then hit play and sniff it up. I tried it myself a few years later. It’s a lot harder than it looks.” Ross was a natural host, conversing happily with Hollywood stars and airport workers alike, but the incessant nocturnal rhythm of the job began to take its toll, even as Bunty held things together – more than ably – on the domestic front. “I did wake up some mornings and wonder, ‘Why is my Dad still up?’” says Atticus. “And so energetic?” “It’s quite an art making sure everyone has a good time,” says Bunty. “You have to be on top form seven nights a week.” “Being Flipper became this whole separate thing,” explains Ross. “I felt I had to get into the role in a big way.” Ross racked up five DUIs during his time in LA, although back in those days, there was usually a way to take care of such things. “The sheriffs would lie in wait for me. ‘You’re not in Flipper’s now, are you?’ they said.” It was a portent of things to come. In 1980, roller disco got its own Sharon Tate-like Wheel, piggy: John Voight laces up his boots in the early days of Flipper’s, 1979

‘WE LET IN THE UNDERBELLY; NOT THE STARS, BUT THE PEOPLE WHO FEED OFF STARS’

sacrificial lamb with the brutal murder of Playmate Of The Year Dorothy Stratten. Stratten, who appeared alongside Hugh Hefner in the 1979 primetime special Playboy’s Roller Disco And Pajama Party, was the emblematic roller disco babe – blonde, sweet, optimistic and unsuspecting of her own demise. She had just commissioned some photos of herself wearing roller skates and a red swimsuit in the hope of emulating Farah Fawcett’s iconic poster. As the disco craze crumbled with costly flops such as Xanadu and Can’t Stop The Music, Ross kept things going with theme nights (“Network Gay Night! Free food!”) and local new wave acts such as The Go-Go’s and Dead Kennedys. British rock groups invariably held parties at Flipper’s because they all stayed at the nearby Tropicana Motel, legendary home to Tom Waits et al. Nutty boys Madness were so taken with Ross they held him aloft on a chair while singing a ditty in his honour, then threw him in the pool. Even The Clash accepted an invitation to skate. “I called up to speak to Joe Strummer,” says Flipper, “and got the immortal reply, ‘He don’t normally talk to dolphins.’” The expedient mix of disco and punk was not without its ructions, though, even in anything-goes LA. One local band, in a “punk rock gesture”, threw gravel onto the rink – necessitating thousands of dollars of repairs. And Denny Cordell was less than thrilled with the club’s shift towards a more populist approach. “We had terrible rows about it,” says Ross. “But I had to keep the place filled somehow. We replaced the quail’s eggs with French fries and let in more of the Hollywood underbelly; not the stars, but the people who feed off stars. Amusing lowlifes, if you will, except Denny was not amused. ‘Flipper,’ he said, ‘you’ve taken a tropical aquarium and turned it into a washing machine.’” Despite Cordell’s vintage wine menu, the biggest draw at the club was the afternoon skating sessions. “Kids would come from everywhere, in all shapes and sizes, colours and hues,” says Ross. “We played the same funk we played at night and they all got on fine. There’s a moral in there somewhere.” But local residents and officials did not care to visit, preferring instead to campaign against the club’s black-attended adult skate sessions. “Saturday nights could feel like a scary crowd if you were an uptight white person,” says Atticus, who would go on to win an Oscar with Trent Reznor for scoring The Social Network in 2011. “But it really wasn’t. That’s where I first saw a DJ, Disco Danny, mixing records.” “Basically,” says Milo, “the sheriffs just didn’t like all these black guys coming into town to get white pussy.”

Photographs Richard Young Archives ; courtesy of Liberty Ross

devil-may-care atmosphere presided over by the two crazy Englishmen: Cordell with his cigar and white three-piece suit, Ross with his green Converse and glitter whistle on a string. “They were like a British comedy act,” says Carol Bennett; “the perfect front men for their product. They were both quick-witted, optimistic, fun-loving – and very loose.” “The drugs were just rampant there,” says Jeff Jourard. “The whole band would repair to the men’s room, which was like a pharmacy, get coked up, drink a pint of alcohol, then go out and jam our asses off for 45 minutes. Nobody cared. They were more wrecked than we were.” One night a very drunk John Entwistle, from The Who, joined the Lifters on stage for a version of “Louie Louie”, where he played his trademark flamenco bass. “Definitely a first for that song,” says Jourard. Californian hedonism had finally rediscovered its innocence after the blood-drenched end of the Sixties, with Altamont and the Manson killings. Roller disco, with its carefree lyrics and thrilling physical freedom, was the perfect antidote to the preceding years of Watergate, stagflation, petrol shortages and 20-minute drum solos.


ROLLER DISCO The concept of “white flight” was duly explained to Ross: “Apparently, once the amount of black visitors to any neighbourhood reaches 10 per cent, then the next number is 100 per cent. But real skating requires the heavy funk disco music that inspired us in the first place. All these black kids would bus themselves in from Watts and Compton and the locals would go f***ing crazy. It was great.” Ross even brought in the Jigaboo Jammers from New York: “One of the few promises I’ve kept in my life. The whole insane group flew over – all 24 of them. What the accountant said was unprintable.” (The actual phrase was “Flipper, we don’t have enough n*****s in this town?”)

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y 1981, darker tensions were coming to the surface of LA’s social fabric. Reagan was in the White House and Aids was hovering into view. New drugs were appearing, including crack and PCP (AKA angel dust), that were worlds away from the mellow high of Quaaludes or peyote. The harsh new drugs meant a harsh new criminal element too. Walking back to his car, Cordell got a shotgun jammed in his face. This time the police told the club to change its ways or face getting shut down. So Ross, of course, did completely the opposite. He booked in Prince for a concert during the star’s scandalous Dirty Mind tour and sold 2,000 tickets. Prince appeared clad only in a dirty raincoat and leather thong for a gig of legendary proportions. (“The one concert my parents wouldn’t let me go to!” says Atticus.) The police duly raided the club, as promised, and shut it down. “Prince’s managers were delighted. We were delighted. The punters were delighted. It was sensational, a real event.” It would also prove to be the club’s turning point. (And then everything went wrong.) “Events in history tend to reach an apex then go downhill from there,” says Ross. “With Napoleon it was Tilsit, with Flipper’s it was Prince. The cops told me, ‘You can go to jail for 20 years or close on Friday – what’s it going to be, Flipper?’” It didn’t help that the club had amassed $60 million worth of lawsuits for skating injuries (mostly from drunken white guys, but still). Tensions between Ross and Cordell took their first meaningful turn for the worse. “Denny had a very Roman view of life, where he was the emperor. He fired me, he banned me, but we never stopped being friends.” When the Beverly Center shopping mall opened up nearby, pushing up the club’s real estate value dramatically, Cordell and Gordy seized the opportunity to sell up. “It was pretty abrupt,” says Ross. “The accountant called me in and said, ‘It’s all over, Flipper.’” Cordell

‘IT WAS CRUSHING FOR DAD WHEN IT ENDED… HE WAS THE STAR OF THE SHOW’

We are family: The Ross clan, photographed at their Hollywood Hills home by son Atticus, 1980

flew off to Ireland to pursue his new interest, breeding racehorses, and the property was sold to the Esprit clothing company, leaving Flipper to preside over the club’s last night. All the clubbers from Compton and Watts were welcomed in for a farewell of epic proportions. The sheriffs moved in so quickly they caused a mini riot in the streets. Cars were overturned and dumpsters set alight. “It was mayhem,” admits Ross, “but that’s what rock’n’roll is meant to be – rebellious and anarchic.” He watched the conflagration from a rooftop over the road with a bottle of champagne: “Fiddling while Rome burns.” The staff ransacked the fabled wine cellar, leaving nothing but a box of Bols liqueur. “The ridiculous blue kind. But I took it home anyway.” In retrospect, regulars mostly agree it was the right time to close the doors. “It was just too intense to sustain,” says hairdresser Carrie White. “Believe me, I know. I ran off with a European princess [whom she’d met in the Flipper’s toilets] and ended up in rehab.” “Things had become a little tawdry,” agrees Bunty Ross. “But it was still terribly sad. We were involved in all these people’s lives – the skate guards, the waitresses. They baby-sat the kids. They were part of the family. When they pulled the plug, all those relationships went, too.” And so, the family packed up once more and moved, this time into a “glorified hovel” in the San Fernando Valley with a backyard filled with marijuana plants. Once again, things looked bleak. “We weren’t poor, but we were broke,” says Holly, who remembers eating a lot of Pioneer Take Out chicken during that time. “When Dad told me to go to my room, I said, ‘I don’t have a room to go to!’”

“It was crushing for Dad when it ended,” says Milo. “He was like a performer on stage and at Flipper’s he was the star of the show.” And then came an opportunity too ridiculous to turn down: working as a butler in Beverly Hills for a pomegranate tycoon. Ross failed the psychological evaluation, but got the job after the two men bonded over a shared love of Napoleon. “Ian’s employers were worried it was a great step down because my father had a title,” says Bunty. “But I told them, ‘No, it’s the biggest step up. He’s never had a regular paycheck in his life.’” “Dad would always say if you lose your sense of humour, you’re f***ed,” says Milo. “He simply found a new role for himself and played it to the hilt.” “I used to go to bed early,” says Bunty, “so I could wake up when he got back and hear all the outrageous things he’d had to do. Ian can barely tie a shoelace and suddenly he had to fold napkins into fans. I’ve never laughed so much in my entire life.” It would be another 20 years before Ross returned to LA. Visiting the corner of Santa Monica and La Cienega Boulevards today, one can understand why. The Tropicana Motel is long gone and Flipper’s is now a pharmacy – a real one – made of dull grey concrete. Orthopaedic sandals are the only fancy footwear on offer and the powdered stimulants for sale are Epsom salts and stool softener. The one hint of a Seventies heyday is the piped sound of Blondie’s “Heart Of Glass”. All is not lost, though. Liberty Ross, who recently married music producer Jimmy Iovine, is producing a US cable drama based on the Flipper’s saga; plus, a number of social media fan sites have sprung up, where hitherto gentrified citizens can relive their wild youth. “The first time I had sex standing up was in the alley behind Flipper’s,” declared one Beverly Hills real estate agent. “There isn’t a summer that goes by where I don’t stop and think about that place.” “Let’s face it,” says Ross, the man who presided over all the mayhem: “Flipper’s was the last hurrah. I was still in my thirties, so I could push the envelope a bit before having to grow up, but we were the last gasp of the golden age of rock that started with Radio Caroline. I just happened to be there at the beginning and I happened to be there at the end.”

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GQ Icon: Tusk By Fleetwood Mac (Dylan Jones, January 2016) GQ Icon: Boshier & Bowie (Paul Gorman, December 2015) The Commodore Of Love (Chris Ayres, July 2015) JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 281


Jacket by Ermenegildo Zegna Couture, £760. zegna.com. Vest by Sunspel, £30. sunspel.com. Scarf by Louis Vuitton, £330. uk.louisvuitton.com

282 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016


FASHION

PHOTOGRAPHS BY

Carlotta Manaigo STYLING BY Elgar Johnson

Catch the spring tide with a collection of wind-beating beachwear to rival any New York socialite

Jumper, £1,560. Trousers, £550. Sandals, £530. All by Hermès. hermes.com

JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 283


Turtleneck by Tom Ford, £690. tomford.com. Shorts by Moncler, £370. moncler. com. Shoes by Tod’s, £350. tods.com. Watch by Victorinox, £395. victorinoxwatches.com

284 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016


FASHION

Vest by Sunspel, £30. sunspel.com. Shorts by Brooks Brothers, £79. brooksbrothers.com. Watch by Victorinox, £395. victorinoxwatches.com

JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 285


Top, £290. Shorts, £330. Both by Brunello Cucinelli. brunellocucinelli.com. Trainers by Berluti, £920. berluti.com

286 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016


FASHION

Jacket by Tod’s, £990. tods.com. T-shirt by Sunspel, £60. sunspel.com. Shorts by Dries Van Noten, £385. At Harvey Nichols. harveynichols.com

JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 287


T-shirt by Hermès, £8,610. hermes.com. Shorts, £244. Sandals, £410. Both by Pal Zileri. palzileri.com. Watch by Victorinox, £395. victorinoxwatches.com

288 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2016


Grooming Michael Harding Digital operator James Naylor at Dtouch Photography assistant Jacob McFadden Styling assistant Oliver Sharp Model Ben Howard at Next

FASHION

T-shirt by Dsquared2, £115. dsquared2.com. Shorts by Gucci, £300. gucci.com. Watch by Victorinox, £395. victorinoxwatches.com

JUNE 2016 GQ.CO.UK 289


TECH NEWS WITH REAL IMPACT Ars Technica, founded in 1998, is the world’s most influential technology website and community, providing deep analysis and impartial reporting of the confluence of science, technology, policy, and the Internet. Ars Technica UK builds upon these 17 years of experience, with high-quality journalism that spans the width and breadth of UK and Europe. “Ars comes up with insight that no one else has.” Sergey Brin, cofounder, Google

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PICTURED: views of and from the Tower Penthouse at Chelsea Creek by Squire & Partners; and, above right, the Taylor Howes HQ in Knightsbridge


Trevor Square Knightsbridge SW7

A late Georgian Grade II listed townhouse arranged over four floors with a paved west facing garden and a roof terrace. Entrance Hall • Drawing Room/Dining Room • Sitting Room • Study • Kitchen • Double Height Conservatory Master Bedroom with Bathroom Ensuite • Three Further Bedrooms • Bathroom • Shower Room Cloakroom • Terrace • Garden • Storage Vaults • EPC Rating E F R E E H OLD

JS A WA E lli s 020 7306 1620

020-7225 0277 www.russellsimpson.co.uk

P R IC E O N A P P L I C AT I O N


Old Church Street Chelsea SW3

A rare opportunity to acquire this most unusual, secret house set back from the street, in its own garden and amongst surrounding private gardens to the south and west. Planned on three floors only with countless opportunities for improvement and enlargement, this house enjoys a double garden with westerly views and the addition of a summer house facing south. EPC Rating Main House: F. EPC Rating Summer House: F. F R E E H OLD

J S A S av i lls 020 7581 5234

020-7225 0277 www.russellsimpson.co.uk

P R IC E O N A P P L I C AT I O N


Exceptional Cotswold Grade II* Manor WITHINGTON, CHELTENHAM, GLOUCESTERSHIRE Cheltenham/Cirencester: 9 miles, (Kemble to London Paddington from 75 minutes), Gloucestershire (Staverton) Airport: 16 miles, Bristol Airport: 55 miles Reception hall, 6 reception rooms, kitchen/conservatory, master bedroom suite, 8 further en suite bedrooms. 3 cottages, 12 car garage block, stable yard, manège, swimming pool, lake. Excellent 4 bedroom secondary house. Beautiful gardens and grounds. Arable and pasture land. As a whole or in 3 lots. EPCs: D-E. About 207 acres I Guide £7.95 million (Lot 1 - house with 55 acres)

Ed Sugden Savills London Country Department

020 3538 9952 esugden@savills.com James Crawford Knight Frank

020 7861 1065 james.crawford@knightfrank.com

savills.co.uk


ADVERTISING FEATURE

CAPITAL CONNECTIONS


Lindsay Cuthill speaks with Claire Pilton about heading Savills Country Department … in London

“As with any high end business, what you really want is someone you can trust.” Lindsay recognises, “it’s not enough to be professional. We must be approachable and in tune to the changing landscape of our client base. Buyers are becoming younger and that’s not because I’ve been in the business 30 years.” “The process of finding and acquiring property is also taking longer. Purchasing a £2 millionplus home is more expensive than it’s ever been; gone are the days when ‘fancying a change’ was sufficient reason to sell up and move on. Today people put off down and up sizing. They may opt for somewhere that will stretch them a little more financially, but which they will live in for longer; given that is not a decision you should rush, we may be in your lives for quite a while! It’s important you want to spend time with us.” Savills Country Department is currently working with some 1,600 active buyers. Looking throughout England and Wales, their budgets range from £2 million to £20 million-plus where our national Farms and Estates team works closely alongside Private Office country director, Crispin Holborow. So why run a Country Department in the West End that is 30 to 400 miles away from its instructions? “The world looks to London. Our headquarters in Margaret Street, W1, is like the Heathrow of Savills. It’s a hub through which everyone travels and converges; it’s where our international associates visit and our overseas desks (Russia, China, Caribbean, France, Italy and, newly created, Iran) are based; it is also home to our marketing, PR and research divisions.

Contact Lindsay Cuthill +44 (0)20 7016 3280 lcuthill@savills.com

The Country Department is located in the thick of things, which gives our vendors the edge.” That and the fact Savills has a substantially bigger network than its immediate competitors in the prime market. Lindsay’s team works in tandem with Savills ‘local’ country offices and 37 offices in the capital. This spring, 25 % of their buyers have a London postcode; an increase of 10% on last year. “Our London network affords us the opportunity to nurture potential purchasers from the day they ask what their London home is worth. We know how our clients live in town and how they want to live in the country. Some are prepared to work on a property that has potential, others prefer the finished article, provided it has been redeveloped or refurbished sympathetically.

“ The market is starting to shift up in those prime areas of commuter-belt countryside that are expected to out-perform the capital over the next five years. ” Increasingly, the ‘big house’ is not about impressing others, but enjoying it yourself. The new stately-seat brigade don’t want to cut the ribbons at the fete, but they do want to be part of the community.” “Knowing and nurturing potential buyers is as important for our vendors as giving their property maximum exposure, especially in a ‘challenging’ market. Since Lehmans in 2008, prices haven’t really moved, until now. The market is starting to shift up in those prime areas of commuter-belt countryside that are expected to out-perform the capital over the next five years. With the London gravy train slowing down, this may be the moment country house buyers can afford to disembark.”


THE GREAT ESCAPE The chartering of a superyacht is one of the most alluring experiences imaginable. Splendid views, unparalleled comfort and absolute privacy are assured. Contact Cecil Wright & Partners for an introduction to superyacht living at its finest. chris@cecilwright.com

cecilwright.com


P O R T L A N D P L A C E LO N D O N W 1 A spectacular 8,000 sq. ft. “Home in the Sky” occupying the entire 8th floor and part lower floors of this contemporary building approaching Regent Street. Arguably one of the best Penthouses in London, designed from inception to completion, creating a wonderful family home with expansive 360 degree views across Marylebone, Regent’s Park and the West End of London. With direct access from a secure lift, the property is designed in a contemporary style featuring floor to ceiling panoramic windows, beautiful entertaining spaces with high ceilings and an abundance of natural light and space. The penthouse benefits from a separate internal lift servicing all three floors along with a garden terrace and lap pool.

PRICE ON APPLICATION SOLE AGENT


URBAN RESORT LIVING ON THE MIAMI RIVER A selection of extraordinary homes for the discerning few by Rafael Viñoly

One River Point brings Viñoly’s concept of architecture as performance dramatically to life. Twin waterfront towers will transform the skyline of Miami as much as they will redefine the luxury lifestyle. Exclusivity reaches a spectacular new summit in the private members club, where unprecedented privileges grace unsurpassed views. Urban sophistication set in a private park enclosed by the river’s edge. Complete resort living in the heart of Miami.

For inquiries, please call 786-231-1887 or visit oneriverpoint.com Exclusive Sales & Marketing by Douglas Elliman Development Marketing This is not intended to be an offer to sell, or solicitation to buy, condominium units to residents of any jurisdiction where such offer or solicitation cannot be made or are otherwise prohibited by law, and your eligibility for purchase will depend upon your state of residency. This offering is made only by the prospectus for the condominium and no statement should be relied upon if not made in the prospectus. The information provided, including pricing, is solely for informational purposes, and is subject to change without notice. Oral representations cannot be relied upon as correctly stating the representations of the developer. For correct representations, make reference to this brochure and to the documents required by section 718.503, Florida statutes, to be furnished by a developer to a buyer or lessee.

Fully finished Residences from the $750,000s


Grade I-listed Trafalgar Park near Salisbury, Wiltshire, was built in the 1730s and re-named after Nelsonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s death

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H I LLA RY

S AY E R

PROPERTY SEARCH

Rethinking property search and acquisition Hillary Sayer is an independent property search firm based in prime Central London. The company is built upon the commitment to deliver a top-tier private client service. Our advice is straight forward, honest and free from conflicts of interests. Our network and experience means that we are well placed to hear about properties which are not on the market and we are amongst the first to hear about the ones that are. Residential property is the most personal of all assets and we endeavour to protect and guide our clients every step of the way - generation to generation.

Charlotte Norris charlotte@hillarysayer.com

07866 735 591

www.hillarysayer.com


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CANALET TO LONDON – A MASTERPIECE

Photograph of Canaletto under construction

Exquisite Canaletto Announcing the flawless new Beaumont Collection

The award winning canalside Canaletto by Ben van Berkel’s UN Studio, showcases one of the superb Beaumont apartments* dressed by renowned international designer Rients Bruinsma and overlooking the City, West End, Shoreditch and Islington.

Beaumont three bedroom apartments from £3.2m For an exclusive, private viewing, by appointment only, please contact the Sales Gallery open daily between 10am and 6pm. +44 (0)20 7608 1825 | 257 City Road, EC1V 1AD sales@canalettolondon.com | www.canalettolondon.com

* Beaumont apartment open for viewing 9 April


condenastjohansens.com Nimmo Bay Resort, Canada


Computer generated image is indicative only. Prices are correct at the time of going to press.

THIRTY CASSON SQUARE

NOW AVAILABLE Thirty Casson Square stands on the South Bank of the River Thames, overlooking Jubilee Gardens with direct views of the London Eye and the Houses of Parliament. These beautifully appointed apartments, ranging from studios to three bedrooms, are your opportunity to live in the heart of London.

PRICES FROM ÂŁ750,000 Call us on +44 (0)20 7001 3600 to arrange an exclusive viewing. www.southbank-place.com A development by Braeburn Estates Limited Partnership


Sophisticated. Stunning. Stylish. BEWLEY HOMES IN THE HOME COUNTIES Discover the grandeur of Glenmead â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a beautiful 7 bedroom family HOME COMPLETEWITHSTAFFmAT INTHEAFmUENTVILLAGEOF!SCOT Price: £3,650,000 Contact Strutt and Parker on 01344 623411 for an appointment.

Gated entrance to mansion style living at Rothsay Court, a secure development of just fourteen 2 bedroom apartments including 2 penthouses close to St Georges Hill. Prices from: £695,000 Contact Jackson Stops and Staff on 01932 821160

Occupations from summer 2016, Holcombe House Gardens is a superb DEVELOPMENTOFlVEANDBEDROOM detached houses in stunning Sunningdale. Prices from £1,450,000. Contact Romans on 01344 205 140 for an appointment.

4OlNDOUTABOUTOUROTHER(OME#OUNTYPROPERTIESCALL"EWLEY(OMESON 0845 68 68 600 EMAILSALES BEWLEYCOUKORVISITWWWBEWLEYCOUK


A once in a lifetime opportunity

THE STAR AND GARTER

Computer generated image depicts The Star and Garter and is indicative only. Photography depicts Show Home. Details and prices correct at time of going to press. - June 2016

NOW OVER 70% SOLD The meticulous refurbishment of this Grade II Listed landmark provides a stunning range of luxuriously specified 1, 2, 3 and 4 bedroom apartments. It has a magnificent setting, with the iconic view of the river Thames, famously painted by Turner and other artists, visible from the restored gardens. These are unique residences, restored and specified to the highest standards. Private facilities, including a leisure suite with a pool, spa and treatment room, Harrods concierge, and town car ensure an incomparable lifestyle for residents.

Two bedroom, two bathroom apartments from ÂŁ1.75 million Three bedroom apartments from ÂŁ2.45 million

The Sales Suite and Show Apartment are open daily Viewing by appointment only, please call 0333 666 0102 to confirm.

Selling agents

www.thestarandgarter.london


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Computer generated image is indicative only. *Price correct at time of going to press.

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#OTL JONATHAN HEAF IS...

...with OLIVIER ROUSTEING L’Avenue in Paris is (almost) the venue for GQ’s tête-à-tête with Balmain’s main man

E  

llo, oui, Monsieur Heff?” “It’s ‘Heaf’ but I’m not particularly precious.” “Oh, yes. Oui, Monsieur Heeef. Monsieur Rousteing would like to do the lunch interview at his studio rather than at the restaurant. It is just round the corner. Is that fine for you? ’Ello? Monsieur Heff?” So that’s when I get up from my seat at Parisian celeb hangout L’Avenue, ask the waiter for the bill – ¤7 plus service for a half-bottle of Badoit – pay and then walk round to the headquarters of the French maximalist label Balmain for a food-free lunch date with its 30-year-old creative director, Olivier Rousteing. I find Rousteing in his studio sipping from a thermos containing lemon and hot water – his daily post-workout palette cleanser. Like a lot of men his age, Rousteing is part-spornosexual, part-workaholic and part-hedonist, working out every day to keep his figure trim yet also, occasionally, getting his blood so toxic that once a year he heads to an expensive retreat in the Swiss mountains to purge. Young, black, gay and furiously driven, Rousteing is transforming the way we see fashion from the inside out. His clothes may not be for everyone – Balmain’s £7,500 brocade blazers resemble something Michael Jackson might have worn on stage at the Super Bowl in 1993 – but then to judge this designer solely on his designs is entirely missing the point. Perhaps more than any other creative director, certainly before any other, Rousteing has embraced social media – particularly Instagram – to promote both himself and the brand he works for. The word he uses most in our interview is “relevant” – his desire to make Balmain more so and his despondency at whether the fashion world can ever become “modern”. “How can a fashion brand call itself modern,” he asks me, “when they have no black or Asian models in their catwalk shows in 2016? Minimal is not modern. A neoprene jumper is not modern. Counting how many token black faces you have in a show is not modern.” For an industry within which the brand machinations are usually so wellhidden and controlled, Rousteing’s open-book policy is certainly refreshing.

“I wanted to place Balmain directly within pop culture,” he continues. “I loved the way Gianni Versace in the Nineties used to be photographed with all those models – Linda [Evangelista], Cindy [Crawford], Naomi [Campbell] – and I am trying to create a similar ethos here. An army. I am part of a generation that likes reality. People want to see the backstage stuff. They want to see your successes and also your failures. What you eat, what you wear to bed, the naked selfie...” Such a candid strategy, especially for such a traditional French fashion house, hasn’t escaped criticism, not least from the brand’s own board members. “They were worried at first. I don’t want to be one of those designers that sits in my ivory tower and complains about being a tortured artist. I find designers that ‘struggle’ embarrassing. We design nice clothes, we inspire, we make men and women look hot, but let’s not pretend that fashion saves lives. We aren’t curing cancer here.” Kim Kardashian has become a close friend of Rousteing’s – he designed her wedding dress and has spent many hours talking style with her husband, Kanye West. How much influence has she had on him? “Two years ago people in fashion were very snobby about Kim and Kendall [Jenner]. Now the whole family is front row. Kim is changing the way the fashion business is run, far more than those old lady critics that write their show reports each season. Look at the power and reach Kim has. She has 60 million followers on Instagram. That is like the entire population of France following every step you take. Brands that don’t try and harness this will never evolve.” Rousteing chuckles. “Fashion really is like working with dinosaurs sometimes, you know? Welcome to Jurassic Park...” On the glass desk in front of him Rousteing’s phone flashes silently. Favourite part of your body? My lips Sexiest thing a man can wear? Nothing. When do you switch your phone of? Never. I think you can detox from your phone only when you have a lover. I am currently single.

VERDICT

If you were reincarnated, who or what would you come back as?

Kris Jenner. L’Avenue, 41 Avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris. 0033 1 40 70 14 91. avenue-restaurant.com

Food ,,,,, Sparkling water +++++ Frenchness ++++, Relevance +++++Cheekbones +++,,Millennialism +++++Overall ++++,

Illustrations Russ Tudor; Zohar Lazar

‘People want to see what you wear to bed, the naked selfie’


FOR AN ACTIVE LIFE

Spring all year round... If you are looking for a daily supplement to give you extra support from within, Jointace® has been specially formulated by Vitabiotics’ experts to provide premium nutritional care. With a unique combination of nutrients, and vitamin C which contributes to normal collagen formation for the normal function of bone and cartilage.

Britain’s No.1 Vitamin Company** From , Superdrug, supermarkets, chemists, Holland & Barrett, health stores & www.jointace.com

*Nielsen GB ScanTrack Total Coverage Value Sales 52 w/e 2nd January 2016. **Nielsen GB ScanTrack Total Coverage Value Sales 52 w/e 25th April 2015.


Please turn the page to view Supplement


G

SPRING SUMMER

//

2016

REAL FASHION FOR REAL MEN

GAME ON The bold new take on sportswear GOING GREEN The coolest colours for summer DARE TO WEAR… Could you carry off seven different catwalk looks over seven days?

NEED TO KNOW

From blue blazers to Hawaiian shirts

THIS SUMMER’S BEST NEW WARDROBE

IN ASSOCIATION WITH


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Cover Photograph Neil Bedford Styling Jessica Punter

White T-shirt, £15. Socks, £12 for four. Both Next. next.co.uk. Red T-shirt, £170. Tracksuit bottoms, £100. Both DKNY. dkny.com. Trainers, £67. By Adidas at JD Sports. jdsports.co.uk

As GQ’s resident Style Shrink, it would be fair to say that a lot of men out there are keen to know what ten (for the sake of argument) items of clothing every man should own. And it is a very fair question. Of the top of my head I would include such things as a navy V-neck, a trench coat, a blazer and a collection of white T-shirts. However, if everyone took these recommendations at face value the streets of the UK would begin to look more like downtown Pyongyang, inhabited by squads of identikit blokes. That is why GQ is pleased to bring you this second annual Fashion Forward in association with Next. From the coolest new sportswear – that is as at home on the streets as it is on a StairMaster – to the top trends, here is everything you need to know about looking good this summer without comprising your individuality. We even ask the question: dare you wear socks with sandals? Also, our guide to DIY distressed denim guarantees catwalk-inspired ripped knees without blowing your bank account. But don’t take this too far. I came across a post on building the perfect capsule wardrobe on an American website recently that appears to appeal to the more, er, redneck chap. One commenter, David, claimed that whatever his wardrobe, the one thing every man should own is a sewing machine. “Every man should know how to sew his own clothes. After all, are you going to rely on someone else to clean and gut your fish?” Well, yes David. He’s called Pete. He’s a fishmonger. Happy shopping. Robert Johnston

// Editor-in-Chief Dylan Jones // Design and Creative Direction Paul Solomons // Fashion Director Robert Johnston // Editor Jessica Punter // Managing Editor Mark Russell // Photographic Director Ger Tierney // Chief Sub-Editor George Chesterton // Picture Editor Ryan Grimley

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

// Contributing Stylists Grace Gilfeather, Carlotta Constant, Emily Tighe // Fashion Assistants Angelo Mitakos, Oliver Sharp // Contributing Photographers Matthew Beedle, Anna Victoria Best, Neil Bedford, Olly Burn, Dom Fleming, Alistair Nicol, Ben Riggott, Jody Todd ©2016 The Condé Nast Publications Ltd. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. Not to be sold separately from the June 2016 issue of GQ magazine. Printed by Wyndeham Group. Colour origination by Tag: Response.


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Blue blazers

Need to dress to impress? Whatever the occasion, invest in a jacket that’s any hue of blue PHOTOGRAPH BY

Matthew Beedle

STYLING BY

Jessica Punter

From left: 1 // Blazer by New & Lingwood, £230. At House Of Fraser. houseofraser.co.uk 2 // Blazer by Red Herring , £80. At Debenhams. debenhams.com 3 // Blazer by Jigsaw, £249. jigsaw-online.com 4 // Blazer by Reiss, £295. reiss.com 5 // Blazer by Next, £75. next.co.uk


7

Here’s our pick of the key pieces right now – it’s a big deal in every way

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Hawaiian shirts

The perennial summer shirt gets a timely update with a Cuban-style open collar or a moody dark loral print Matthew Beedle

STYLING BY

Jessica Punter

Trendsetter: Adam Levine

PHOTOGRAPH BY

// STYLE FILE

Photograph Ace Pictures

How to wear: Looks great tucked in and buttoned-up, or worn completely undone over a plain vest. Best matched with plain trousers to avoid print overload. From top: 1 // Shirt by River Island, £25. riverisland.com 2 // Shirt by Original Penguin, £60. originalpenguin.co.uk 3 // Shirt by French Connection, £40. frenchconnection.com 4 // Shirt by J Crew, £70. jcrew.com


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Jacket by H&M, £139.99. hm.com

Bomber by New Look, £40. newlook.com

3

4

Jacket by Armani Exchange, £220. armaniexchange.com

Jacket by All Saints, £328. allsaints.com

// STYLE FILE

Jacket by Oliver Spencer, £639. oliverspencer.co.uk

Bomber by Next, £140. next.co.uk 5

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Photographs Jody Todd; Rex

How to look after real suede Always spray real suede with a protector before its first outing. Fabric Protector by Liquiproof, £24. endclothing.com


Jacket by The Kooples, £650. thekooples.co.uk. T-shirt by Zadig & Voltaire, £70. zadig-et-voltaire. com. Ripped jeans by Diesel, £160. diesel.com. Suede belt by Reiss, £45. reiss.com. Watch by Larsson & Jennings, £215. larssonandjennings.com

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Suede jackets

The perfect way to mix business with leather, we love the genuine article – but you can fake it to make it Ben Riggott

STYLING BY

Jessica Punter

// STYLE FILE

How best to store your jacket True suede is heavy and needs to be hung on a wide hanger to keep its shape. Protect with a suit carrier when not in use.

Trendsetter: Nick Jonas

PHOTOGRAPH BY


Top by Lacoste L!ve, £120. lacoste.com. Jeans by Next, £28. next.co.uk

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Track tops

Sports casual has never looked so good. Get up to speed with the revival of summer’s most versatile uniform STYLING BY

Jessica Punter

// STYLE FILE

Zip service The zip-up top is the new base layer, come winter we will be wearing ours as a substitute rollneck under a smart overcoat (as seen at Prada and Burberry).

Photographic assistance James Davey Styling assistance Angelo Mitakos Model Jack Holland at Next

Ben Riggott

Trendsetters: The Last Shadow Puppets

PHOTOGRAPH BY


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Top by French Connection, £90. frenchconnection.com

Top by Fila, £65. fila.co.uk

3

Photographs Jody Todd; Zackery Michael

Top by Fred Perry, £75. fredperry.com

4

// STYLE FILE

How to wear track jackets We prefer to wear our track tops with smarter jeans or tailored trousers for a more versatile look that’s easier to pull of than a full tracksuit

Top by BoohooMan, £18. boohoo.com

Top by Topman, £35. topman.com

Top by Adidas, £65. At Urban Outfitters. urbanoutfitters.com 5

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Bomber by Topman, £60. topman.com

Jacket by Diesel, £250. diesel.com

Bomber by New Look, £35. newlook.com

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// STYLE FILE

How to wear a statement bomber jacket If you go for a loud print, let it speak for itself and dress down the rest of your outfit. All you need is jeans and a white T-shirt.

Bomber by Asos, £55. asos.com

Bomber by G Star Raw, £135. g-star.com

Bomber by H&M, £49.99. hm.com 5

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Photographs Jody Todd; WENN.com

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Jacket by Diesel, £250. diesel. com. T-shirt, £6. Trousers, £30. Both by Next. next.co.uk. Watch by Larsson & Jennings, £215. larssonandjennings.com

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Silk bombers

Photographic assistance James Davey Styling assistance Angelo Mitakos Model Jack Holland at Next

PHOTOGRAPH BY

Ben Riggott

STYLING BY

Jessica Punter

// STYLE FILE Did you know...? Referred to in Japan as Sukajans, bespoke souvenir jackets were a popular item for American GIs to bring home after the war.

Trendsetter: Harry Styles

Invest in some eastern promise and get noticed with these retro Japanese-style jackets


Clockwise from top: 1 // Slides by Hunter Originals, £55. hunterboots.com. Socks by Form & Thread, £24 for three pairs. formandthread.com 2 // Slides by Next, £18. next.co.uk. Socks by Gap, £5. gap.co.uk 3 // Slides by Lacoste, £22. lacoste.com. Socks by Gap, £5. gap.co.uk 4 // Slides by Primark, £4, primark.com. Socks by Form & Thread, £24 for three. formandthread.com

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Slides Slip into summer with pop-coloured rubber pool shoes and bright socks PHOTOGRAPH BY

Ben Riggott

STYLING BY

Jessica Punter


// STYLE FILE

The secret life of socks Keep your feet sweet and wear invisible socks. Calzedonia, Uniqlo and Falke make low-cut versions for sock-less comfort.

Loafers and chinos

Mix with coloured chinos for the classic dress-down combination that is the perfect go-to summer uniform PHOTOGRAPH BY

Ben Riggott

STYLING BY

Jessica Punter

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Above from left: 1 // Shirt by Reiss, £85. reiss.com. Chinos by Farah, £45. farah.co.uk. Belt by Next, £16. next.co.uk. Loafers by Jones Bootmaker, £120. jonesbootmaker.com 2 // Shirt by Reiss, £85. reiss.com. Chinos by Scotch & Soda, £95. scotch-soda.com. Loafers by Russell & Bromley, £185. russellandbromley.co.uk. Belt by Russell & Bromley, £75. russellandbromley.co.uk 3 // Shirt by Reiss, £85. reiss.com. Chinos by Gap, £40. gap.co.uk. Loafers by Next, £42. next.co.uk. Belt by Next, £20. next.co.uk

Above from left: 4 // Shirt by Reiss, £85. reiss.com. Jeans by Uniqlo, £40. uniqlo.com. Loafers by Weejuns by G.H Bass & Co, £125. ghbass-eu.com. Belt by Reiss, £45. reiss.com 5 // Shirt by Reiss, £85. reiss.com. Jeans by Next, £28. next.co.uk. Belt by Reiss, £45. reiss.com. Loafers by Dune London, £90. dunelondon.com 6 // Shirt by Reiss, £85. reiss.com. Chinos by Next, £30. next.co.uk. Loafers by Aldo, £95. aldoshoes.com. Belt by Reiss, £45. reiss.com


Jacket, £50. Shirt, £22. Chinos, £28. Trainers, £30. All items available at Next. next.co.uk

Jacket, £80. T-shirt, £6. Trousers, £35. Brogues, £45. All items available at Next. next.co.uk

// STYLE FILE Shop by midnight for next-day delivery as standard for £3.99. All stock subject to availability. Delivery exclusions apply. Check next.co.uk for full T&C’s


Bomber jacket, £50. T-shirt, £6. Trousers, £40. All items available at Next. next.co.uk

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Shirt, £25. Vest, £6. Trousers, £35. Loafers, £75. All items available at Next. next.co.uk

Think you’ve got your summer style sorted? Think again. Next’s capsule collection of seasonal classics is sure to shake up your wardrobe, no matter where you’re headed


T H E DA P P E R C H E F

Isaac Carew Before he worked as a model (for the likes of Hermès, Gieves & Hawkes – and basically everyone), Isaac Carew originally trained as a chef. He wanted to get back to his first passion, and thanks to his already large Instagram following, he realised he could combine his career as a model with his skills in the kitchen. His website, The Dirty Dishes, has been up and running for less than six months, but already has a huge following. His fresh spin on classic dishes that are healthy without being restrictive has attracted fans to his style of cooking. Having “never been on a diet”, his one piece of advice is: “Try to stay away from sugar.” And despite his modelling experience, his first YouTube video made him “nervous as hell”. This looks to be his year, with plans for a book and a pop-up restaurant, and an aim to cook for Marco Pierre-White. thedirtydishes.co.uk

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Move over, movers and shakers. This fresh wave of tastemakers, style setters and faces will be running things in 2016 and beyond

PHOTOGRAPHS BY

Anna Victoria Best

WORDS BY

Zak Maoui

Styling Jessica Punter Styling assistant Angelo Mitakos Photography assistant Elle Kent Grooming Tim Pateman at Fox Represents for thelionandthefox.com

Jacket by H&M, £49.99. hm.com. Top by Next, £8. next.co.uk


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Styling Carlotta Constant Styling assistant Angelo Mitakos Photography assistant Elle Kent Grooming Tim Pateman at Fox Represents for thelionandthefox.com

T H E S U P E R S TA R DJ S

The Martinez Brothers Growing up in the Bronx, the Martinez Brothers were surrounded by the hip hop sounds of the Nineties. But their father’s diverse taste in “disco, reggae, salsa, funk and house” set them apart from their peers and enabled them to branch out. Nowadays, Steve and Chris are renowned for their summer residency at Ibiza’s DC10, while they tour the world playing sets in New York, Berlin, Tel Aviv and Miami for the rest of the year. As further confirmation of their stellar status, Riccardo Tisci hired them to mix the soundtrack to his Givenchy AW14 and SS15 womenswear collections. In their downtime, the brothers like to scour record shops, hoping to find rare treasures on which they can work their magic. Music is always at the forefront of their minds. Next up is the release of their album and a new single with Miss Kittin. Stay tuned. Chris wears jacket by Blood Brother, £85. blood-brother.co.uk. T-shirt, £15. Jeans, £25. Both by Next. next.co.uk. Cap by New Era x Martinez Brothers, £25. neweracap.eu. Chain, Chris’s own. Steve wears sweatshirt by Kenzo, £130. At Harrods. harrods.com. T-shirt by Next, £18. next.co.uk. Tracksuit bottoms by Topman, £28. topman.co.uk. Sunglasses and jacket, Steve’s own


THE ICONOCLAST

Daniel W Fletcher

Jacket, £380. Shirt, £230. Trousers, £280. All by Daniel W Fletcher. danielwfletcher.com

Styling Angelo Mitakos Photography assistant Holly Falcus Grooming Chloe Botting using Nars

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Having graduated from Central Saint Martins last June, Daniel W Fletcher’s career has exploded in a surprisingly short space of time. Fresh out of university, his SS16 graduate collection was snapped up by hipster favourite Opening Ceremony, and he hopes to “keep up the momentum”. It looks like he will: following on from a highly acclaimed AW16 line shown at London Collections Men, he is in the running for NEWGEN sponsorship and Fashion East support for his SS17 collection. After stints at Burberry and James Long, he now holds a coveted position under Kim Jones at Louis Vuitton, splitting his week between London and Paris. His own line is strictly British and he likes to use fashion as a means of making political statements. His last collection saw him create a “rent cap” as a comment on the current housing crisis – but his luxe take on pyjama shirts is what we’re after. danielwfletcher.com


T H E YO U T U B E I M P R E S A R I O

Jamal Edwards Aged 15, Jamal Edwards MBE was given his first video camera; ten years later he is the multi-millionaire founder of SBTV. The video production company has become one of the biggest platforms for emerging grime artists in the UK. After wanting to watch music videos online, but realising that music wasn’t yet available for a digital platform, Edwards began by posting videos of his friends’ freestyle rapping back in 2006. His YouTube channel quickly gained huge popularity and featured artists like Stormzy, Clean Bandit and Stromae. His success is down to “not believing in failure” he tells us, and seeing a problem in the digital system that he could fix. He recently started SB.TV News, aiming to provide his audience with news they really care about. The “Jamal Edwards Effect” doesn’t stop here: he has his sights firmly set on America and the Los Angeles music scene. sbtv.co.uk

Styling Emily Tighe Styling assistant Talulah Belassie-Page Photography assistant Elle Kent Grooming Amy Conley at Stella Creative Artists using Sisley

Jacket by APC x Louis W, £430. apc.fr. T-shirt by Next, £6. next.co.uk. Cap, bracelet, ring and earring, all Jamal’s own

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T H E I N D I E S E N S AT I O N

Oscar Lulu

Jacket by J Lindeberg, £635. jlindeberg.com. Shirt by Topman, £30. topman.com. Earring and chain, Oscar’s own

Styling Jessica Punter Styling assistant Angelo Mitakos Photography Assistant Elle Kent Grooming Tim Pateman at Fox Represents for thelionandthefox.com

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Originally from Reading, Sundara Karma are the next big thing in indie music. Frontman Oscar Lulu’s dynamic baritone combined with his bandmates’ instrumentals makes this quartet one of the most infectious bands of the moment. Doing their own thing instead of writing “some shiny pop stuff”, Lulu says, has brought them massive success already. Their single “Flame” got more than a million streams in less than two months and their sound is built for arenas. Jim Morrison, Bruce Springsteen and Pink Floyd are influences, and Lulu says “to tour America would be a dream come true”. Lulu describes 2016 as a “step up” on last year, having wrapped their debut album, which draws upon six years of songwriting since the band’s formation. And, with an appearance at Glastonbury this summer, it’s only going to get bigger. sundara-karma.co.uk


T H E H O L LY WO O D C O N T E N D E R

Craig Roberts Coming from the heart of South Wales, where he watched a “shit-ton of movies”, Craig Roberts never really expected acting to become his full-time job, but now at 25 he boasts a successful CV both in front of and behind the camera. He made his debut on CBBC’s Tracy Beaker, then came a stint on Skins and a breakthrough role in Submarine. That really was “the start of something”, he says. “After that movie, I fell in love with acting”. After breaking in Hollywood with 22 Jump Street and Bad Neighbours, Roberts is now making his mark as a director, something that is “completely different to anything [he has] ever done”. Next up, he will direct his second film, In My Oils.

Styling Jessica Punter Styling assistant Angelo Mitakos Photography assistant Elle Kent Grooming Tim Pateman at Fox Represents for thelionandthefox.com

Jacket by Topman, £180. topman.com. Shirt by All Saints, £80. allsaints.com

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THE EVENT PLANNER

Robin Scott-Lawson

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Blazer by Sand, £425. brocksclothing.co.uk. Sweatshirt by Jigsaw, £89. jigsaw-online.com. Trousers by Whistles, £110. whistles.com. Shoes, Robin’s own

Styling Jessica Punter Photography assistant Elle Kent Grooming Tim Pateman at Fox Represents for thelionandthefox.com

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Robin Scott-Lawson has the kind of job we wish we had. As the founder and creative director of agency My Beautiful City, he specialises in event production for some of fashion’s biggest names. He typically produces eight to ten shows at London Fashion Week and clients include Diesel, Paul Smith, Donatella Versace (who tasked Scott-Lawson with a party for the Versus SS16 womens’ collection) and Dior (for whom he organised the recent Cruise show with Bureau Betak). The company was the first to put on a fashion show at the Royal Courts Of Justice, the British Museum, Tate Modern and the London Coliseum (for the 2013 British Fashion Awards). In 2015 he organised a United Nations conference at the World Economic Forum, digitally representing the theme of hunger and poverty. He hopes to continue to provide his clients with the same “element of surprise”. mybeautifulcity.co.uk


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Styling Jessica Punter Photography assistant Elle Kent Grooming Tim Pateman at Fox Represents for thelionandthefox.com

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THE ARTIST

Arran Gregory Arran Gregory’s work explores the human connection to the natural world. His geometric sculptures and graphic prints of animals have brought commissions from Ralph Lauren, Penfield, Levi’s and Slam City Skates, as well as exhibitions in Tokyo, London and Berlin. His studio at the edge of London is a converted cottage, where he did his first work experience aged 15 with a group of set designers. He is inspired by Eighties graphic design, the Japanese Edo period and the “basic principles of what it is to be human”. His key subjects include the wolf and the bear, which he believes are linked to our primitive side. He is now hoping to exhibit his work further afield, following on from critically acclaimed collections “Wolf”, “Sprint” and “Hunt” – for which he created 60 life-size hand-tiled Amur leopards, to highlight the critically endangered population left in the wild. arrangregory.com

T-shirt, £15. Chinos, £32. Both by Next. next.co.uk. Trainers by Clarks, £110. clarks.co.uk. Beanie, chain and pendants Arran’s own


T-shirt, £18. White T-shirt, £6. Shorts, £18. Trainers, £32. Socks (pack of four), £12. Sunglasses by Ray-Ban, £170. All items available at Next.next.co.uk


New kid Things are heating up thanks to Next and its latest collection of light, ready-to-wear essentials. Whether going smart or casual, an effortless cool is guaranteed

on the block

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Opposite: Jacket, £75. Jumper, £22. T-shirt, £6. Shorts, £16. Trainers, £32 Socks (pack of five), £12. Rucksack, £25. Sunglasses by Ray-Ban, £170. Shirt, £18. Chinos, £30. Sunglasses, £40. All items available at Next. next.co.uk


T-shirt, £24. Trousers, £28. Watch, £55. Sunglasses, £14. Opposite: Jacket, £45 T-shirt, £6. Shorts, £20. Sliders, £18. All items available at Next. next.co.uk


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Shirt, £25. T-shirt, £6. Trousers, £35. Sliders, £18. Sunglasses by Ray-Ban, £170. Opposite: Shirt, £28. Trousers, £35. Sunglasses, £14. All items available at Next. next.co.uk


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Opposite: Shirt, £32. T-shirt, £8. Shorts, £18. Sunglasses by Ray-Ban, £170. Polo shirt, £26. Trousers, £35. Trainers, £32. Sunglasses, £14. All items features are available from Next. Visit next.co.uk. Shop by midnight for next day delivery as standard for £3.99*

*All stock subject to availability. Delivery exclusions apply. Check next.co.uk for full T&C’s

Hotel GQ stayed at Circa 39 circa39.com/ Flights With thanks to norwegian.com/uk/ Model Bertold @ Select Models Grooming Michael Gray @ David Artists using Sisley and Bumble and Bumble

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Summer GQ’s Associate Style Editor Nick Carvell puts a week’s worth of catwalk looks to the street test

days

// Monday All-grey everything

// Tuesday All-green everything

Seen on almost every catwalk at each fashion week, head-to-toe grey is a big deal this summer. The trick is to mix your shades – but, as a general rule, sticking to mid-greys is the easiest way to get to grips with the trend.

Also big this summer: totally tonal green. Your first step should be to pick up one of the huge number of green suits hitting the high street this season – then slip a T-shirt of a slightly different solid green underneath. You could even go for matching trainers if you’re feeling especially bold.

As seen at: Berluti, Oliver Spencer, Paul Smith Blazer, £70. Trousers, £30. Both by River Island. riverisland.com. Shirt by Gap, £40. gap.co.uk. Trainers by Tiger Of Sweden, £165. tigerofsweden.com

PHOTOGRAPHS BY

Alistair Nicol

As seen at: Burberry, Gieves & Hawkes, Canali Blazer, £80. Trousers, £40. Both by River Island. riverisland.com. T-shirt by Bergano Greys, £40. berganogreys.com. Trainers by New Balance for J Crew, £180. jcrew.com

Photographs Indigitalimages.com

seven

Burberry

in

Oliver Spencer

trends

One of the most common questions my friends ask when they see the stream of catwalk shots pouring out of the men’s shows in Milan, Paris and London is, “That’s a cool idea, but how would it work in real life?” And while I always try to look for the most easy-to-wear trends while I’m out on manoeuvres at the European fashion weeks, I have to admit that some of these are far trickier to pull off than others. For many men spring/summer 2016 may, on first glance, seem especially so. Socks worn with sandals, which as a trend has been bubbling under the surface on the men’s style scene for a couple of years now, finally burst out. Almost every label showed at least one look featuring this previously taboo footwear combination – albeit far smarter than before and, crucially, far more wearable than the gym-socks-and-sliders look of last summer. Add to that, jeans getting more distressed than ever, certain colours being worn tonally from head to toe and trouser hems loosening to ever wider proportions, and you’ll have a summer packed with plenty of new trends to try out. However, while some of the big looks of the season might seem daunting on the surface, they’re all very easy to introduce into everyday life if you do them right. As always, we at GQ are here to offer practical advice on how to pull them off. We wore seven tricky trends over seven days in the GQ office – here’s what we learned...


33 Versace

Valentino

Yohji Yamamoto

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Wednesday Pattern-on-pattern

// Thursday Cuban collars

//

The distinct advantage of going for the same pattern for both your trousers and your shirt is that you don’t have to stress out about what to wear with what in the morning. The one golden rule to remember is to keep everything else simple – so solid white or black trainers should be your footwear of choice (and no contrasting patterned outerwear, please).

Your granddad’s holiday shirt of choice is making a comeback from the Fifties – however, the way to wear it circa 2016 is with a suit. While bold patterned, silk iterations dominated the catwalks, a chambray Cuban collar (of which there are plenty on the high street right now) has far more longevity and will slip nicely into your tailored wardrobe.

As seen at: Yohji Yamamoto, James Long, Dolce & Gabbana

As seen at: Louis Vuitton, Topman Design, Valentino

Menswear’s most controversial footwear combination hits the mainstream this summer. Socks and sandals were all over the catwalks – and smarter than ever. Eschew anything a suburban hiker’s club might go for, and opt for the kind of sleek black leather sandals you might see on a Greek god – then pair them with socks in the same colour as the leather (or a dark navy if it matches your trousers).

Shirt, £30. Trousers, £40. Both by Zara. zara.com. Trainers by Kurt Geiger, £120. kurtgeiger.com

Blazer, £49.99. Trousers, £24.99. Both by H&M. hm.com. Shirt by Next, £25. next.co.uk. Shoes by Dune Black, £140. At Dune. dunelondon.com Neckerchief, Nick’s own

Friday Smart socks ‘n’ sandals

As seen at: Margaret Howell, Versace, Hermès Blazer, £189. Trousers, £110. Sandals, £40. Sunglasses, £12. All by Next. next.co.uk. T-shirt by Gap, £9. gap.com. Socks by Form & Thread, £24 for three pairs. formandthread.com

Philipp Plein

E Tautz

//

//

Saturday Baggy trousers

// Sunday Ripped-up jeans

After years of trousers getting tighter, gentlemen with a thicker thigh will be pleased to hear that seams are loosening up. While wider legs were seen worn with suits, it’s far easier to wear them casually. However, in order for the whole thing not to look like you’re in a school production of Guys And Dolls, throw over a plain T-shirt and a smart suede jacket for a bang-up-to-date take.

Denim is more distressed than ever this season – so much so that we’ve done our own guide on how to rip up your existing jeans (page 45). If you’re looking for a practical way to pull this off, stick to slashes at the knees only – no one wants to see hints of your boxer shorts through your trousers in the workplace, dude – and make sure you keep everything else smart by wearing them with a tailored jacket and formal shoes.

As seen at: E Tautz, Agi & Sam, Giorgio Armani

As seen at: Tiger Of Sweden, Calvin Klein Collection, Philipp Plein

Jacket by Topman, £75. topman.com. T-shirt by J Crew, £25. jcrew.com. Trousers by Gant Rugger, £115. gant.co.uk. Trainers by Vans, £50. At Next. next.co.uk

Blazer by River Island, £75. riverisland.com. T-shirt by Next, £6. next.co.uk. Jeans by J Crew, £125. jcrew.com. Shoes by Dune, £85. dunelondon.com


Sweatshirt by BoohooMan, £25. boohoo.com. Shirt, £18. Trainers, £32. Socks, £12 for four. All by Next. next.co.uk. Tracksuit bottoms by Tommy Hilfiger, £110. tommy.com

up

STYLING BY

Neil Bedford

Earn your stripes with a bold take on sportswear that has its roots in the gym and velodrome but translates for a fashion work-out on the city streets

PHOTOGRAPHS BY

Move on

Jessica Punter

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Kit wears jacket, £90. Shorts, £55. Both by French Connection. frenchconnection.com. Shirt, £28. Socks, £12 for four. Both by Next. next.co.uk. Trainers by Kurt Geiger, £140. kurtgeiger.com. Wing wears shirt, £28. Sandals, £22. Socks £12 for four. All by Next. next.co.uk. Sweatshirt (around waist) by Asos, £34. asos.com. Trousers by Sandro, £239. uk.sandro-paris.com


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Shirt, £160. Tracksuit bottoms, £170. Both by Lacoste. lacoste.com. Vest, £6. Socks, £12 for four. Both by Next. next.co.uk. Sandals, £260. Bag, £115. Both by UTC00. utc00.com


Top, £25. Rucksack, £35. Both by River Island. riverisland.com. Tracksuit bottoms by Topman Design, £100. topman.com. Sandals by Teva, £50. teva.co.uk. Socks by Next, £12 for four. next.co.uk

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Shirt by DKNY, £100. dkny. com. Trousers by Tiger Of Sweden, £169. tigerofsweden. com. Sandals, £260. Bag, £115. Both by UTC00. utc00.com. Socks by Next, £12 for four. next.co.uk

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Shirt by Sandro, £100. uk.sandro-paris.com. Trousers by Pringle, £295. brand.pringleofscotland.com. Trainers by Adidas, £70. At JD Sports. jdsports.co.uk. Whistle by Ron Dorff, £25. rondorf.com. Lanyard stylist’s own

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White T-shirt, £15. Socks, £12 for four. Both by Next. next. co.uk. Red T-shirt, £170. Tracksuit bottoms, £100. Both by DKNY. dkny.com. Trainers by Adidas, £67. At JD Sports. jdsports.co.uk


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Wing wears cycling jersey by Le Coq Sportif, £105. lecoqsportif.com. Trousers by Tiger of Sweden, £169. tigerofsweden.com. Sandals by Teva, £60. teva. co.uk. Belt by H&M, £12.99. hm.com. Socks by Next, £12 for four. next.co.uk Kit wears blazer, £190. Shorts, £59. Both by Cos. cosstores.com. Cycling jersey by Le Coq Sportif, £105. lecoqsportif.com. Trainers by Kurt Geiger, £140. kurtgeiger.com. Socks by Next, £12 for four. next.co.uk Photography assistant James Proctor Styling assistant Angelo Mitakos Grooming Davide Barbieri at Caren using Oribe and Tom Ford Set Design Rebecca Hernandez Digital Operator Andy Malone Models Kit and Wing at Next


Essential man

WORDS BY

Jessica Punter

Finding yourself in need of a full-body MOT? GQ road tests the finest salons, treatments and products that will expertly meet all your grooming requirements

Summer is coming – must be time to get that mythical “beach body” in a wildly unachievable time frame, right? Not at GQ: we believe essential man maintenance should happen all year round, not just as panic prep for the two weeks of the year spent on foreign shores, and it turns out we are not alone. According to Treatwell*, the online appointment service, Brazilian blow dries for men are up by 200 per cent, with a quarter of men having regular manicures and male waxing is up 85 per cent – with the back being the most popular area. This confirms that more of us are catching on the fact that a Brazilian blow-dry can banish frizzy hair for months, that regular waxing doesn’t actually hurt that much and that there are lasting solutions to unwanted body hair. So GQ set out to trial the best professional hair, skin, body and feet-improving treatments that will help you look more awesome, every day of the year. And, in the event that you might be packing the Speedos for an trip, consider this a timely guide to boosting the likes on your poolside selfies.

1 // The Medical Pedicure BY Jonathan

Heaf

“Don’t touch me with your claws!” When your girlfriend growls such a comment to you while in bed, as mine did, it’s time for a man to deal with his feet. Thankfully the podiatrists at Margaret Dabbs (below) are on hand to perform miracles on even the most twisted and gnarled pieces of meat. After sitting you down, removing shoes/socks and analysing the state of your feet, their expert begins by removing any dead and dry callused skin with a whirring tool that looks like something a dentist might use to scrape of unwanted tartar from your teeth. The nails are then vigorously shaped, bufed and rehydrated, the latter part using the hero ingredient emu oil, a product known for all its anti-aging, anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties. After the 45-minute treatment one’s feet become distinctly less anti-girlfriend. The clincher: Restores even the roughest hooves to their baby soft beginnings: you won’t recognise your own feet. GQ tried the Medical Pedicure by Margaret Dabbs, £80 for 45 minutes. margaretdabbs.co.uk At home: Maintain condition with the Intensive Treatment Foot Oil (left) by Margaret Dabbs, £22 for 100ml. margaretdabbs.co.uk

maintenance


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3 // The Naked Manicure BY Angelo

2

Photograph Instagram/@rlgrimleygq *Data from Treatwell booking statistics 2015–2016

The Brazilian Blow-dry If your hair is the dry, woolly, uncontrollable kind of curly, then trowelling on product gets very tedious very quickly. And exactly what a Brazilian blow dry mitigates. The aim of this semi-permanent treatment is to tame wilder dry curls and give them a freshly conditioned, frizz-less look. I went to Taylor Taylor London at Liberty (above). It took about an hour and was pretty straightforward. Art drector Gary Evans washed my hair and applied an açaí smoothing solution to wet hair. After a blow-dry it was straightened to set the keratin into the hair using the heat. Then it is washed and conditioned and blow-dried again. The following day it was distinctly straight (much to the amusement of my wife) but after two weeks my curls returned, only they didn’t have the halo of frizz

BY Matt

Jones

that always appeared by the end of the day. Two months in it’s pretty much as it was, only far more manageable. Also, because it’s so much calmer it looks thicker and it will last for up to three to four months, depending on hair type. The clincher: The best bit – now I barely need any product at all. GQ tried the Brazilian Blowout treatment with Gary Evans at Taylor Taylor London at Liberty, £100. taylortaylorlondon.com At home: This is a professional treatment and you can’t buy anything remotely similar over the counter, but we do like L’Oréal Professionnel Série Expert Curl Contour Hydracell Nourishing and Enhancing Masque for its smoothing results. £14 for 200ml. feelunique.com

Hair today (below): Taylor Taylor London art director Gary Evans; (above left) before and after shots of Matt Jones’ Brazilian blow-dry

Mitakos

Firstly, you don’t have to get naked for the Naked Manicure at Nails Inc (below). “Naked” here means no polish. Not that we don’t like nail polish per se – some of our style heroes dabble with an inked nail (see Marc Jacobs, Jared Leto, Brad Pitt). The Fenwick branch of Nails Inc has American-style diner booths, so I felt like I had my own private room. As I relaxed, the beautician soaked, cleansed and bufed my nails and gently removed the cuticles, finishing with a moisturising hand massage. The overall efect is very neat and healthy-looking with a smooth, soft shine. You can do this at home, but it’s more relaxing to pay someone else to do a better job. Ideally, I’d have a manicure every two weeks to keep my hands in tip-top condition, and I would definitely do it before a date or interview. The clincher: The super-neat look has encouraged me not to

bite my nails or chew my cuticles – so they look better for longer. GQ tried the Naked Manicure by Nails Inc at Fenwick, £35. nailsinc.com At home: Clean and file with the GEAR 3-in-1 Nail Tool by Tweezerman (above), £13. tweezerman.co.uk


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5 // Ellipse Nordlys Laser Hair Removal BY Stuart McGurk

The ‘Full Monty’ Wax

BY Conrad

Quilty-Harper

A back, sack and crack wax is one of the most painful things a grown man can experience, but it’s absolutely worth it if you value smooth, soft and hygienic nether regions. We recommend showering shortly before you arrive but don’t bother trimming, your beautician will take care of that. Don’t worry about unwanted erections. The staff are professionals and the pain will be all you’re able to focus on. It’s a team effort getting a back, sack and crack wax: the beautician will need your help pulling the skin taut (especially in the crack area) and it’s a great idea to chat. Conversation was the best way to distract from the pain, followed closely by regular deep breathing, and finally by the beautician’s poking of the skin which helps to distract your nerves. You might bleed a little, but Privet (above) uses special stripless hot wax with aloe vera, so it’s only temporary. You’ll be amazed by how smooth everything is and you’ll look bigger, too. The smoothness lasts at least two weeks and you won’t need to wax again for a month, when the hair length is perfect for another go. Pros: An extremely smooth feeling perfect for the gym, and a clean look for the beach, plus even if you partner doesn’t care, it’s still a novelty for them (and a great conversation topic for your friends). Cons: The pain is like stubbing your toe every 15 seconds for an hour, and there’s some mild discomfort for a few days afterwards. The clincher: There’s no stubbly regrowth, unlike shaving. GQ tried the Full Monty at Privet, a luxury topiary service in Notting Hill. £69.50. privetbody.co.uk At home: Again, we believe waxing should be done by a professional (for your own sake), but for a quick tidy up we recommend the Body Grooming Kit (left) by Braun, £130. argos.co.uk

band (it hurts more where there’s a more hair). Hairs grow in cycles, so you won’t get them all after the first session – at least three sessions are suggested, with a month between them. Still, once done, they’re gone for good, and you’re ready for the beach. The clincher: The treatment can be used for things other than hair removal, such as reducing spots or freckles and fungal nail infections. GQ tried the Ellipse Nordlys Laser Hair Removal at the Skin Matters Clinic, £150 per session (course of six). skin-matters.co.uk. Find your nearest service at ellipseipl.co.uk At home: The hand-held Lumea Essential by Philips works on all hair types (but can’t treat pigmented skin or nail infections). £200. At John Lewis. johnlewis.com

6 // The Spray Tan BY Nick

Carvell

There’s no such thing as a subtle spray tan – you can’t rock up at work with a mahogany hue resembling two weeks in Saint-Tropez and expect no one to clock it. So when asked if you want one coat or two, you might as well go the whole nine yards. And while getting misted in a booth at Harrods’ Urban Retreat isn’t quite as glamorous as a fortnight on the French Riviera, you’ll look superbly, evenly sun-kissed, and softer, thanks to James Read’s moisturising tan solution. As a pale man with a permanent farmer’s tan whose shoulders lobster-ise immediately on the beach, I am now the same golden colour all over for the first time in my life. The clincher: If you’re not headed to some sun-drenched locale, seeing a tanned face in the mirror is a confidence boost. GQ tried the James Read spray tan at Urban Retreat Harrods, one coat, £40, two coats, £45. harrods.com At home: Try the Overnight Tan Sleep Mask Go Darker Body (right) by James Read, £35 for 200ml. jamesreadtan.com

Photographs Jody Todd; Instagram/@j.evans_skinmatters

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Traditionally, if your manliness and all-round silverback qualities spill over into some back fuzz, you have two options: ignore it and pretend it’s still the Seventies, or get it waxed, which is about twice as painful as childbirth (you know, probably). The final option is “laser” treatment, which can be costly and painful. But the new Ellipse Nordlys technique at the Skin Matters Clinic (above) combines laser with “selective waveband technology”; a fine pulse of light attacks the hair’s pigment and kills the root, making it not only more effective, but quicker too (it’s also generally more effective the darker your hair is). GQ’s back session took just 15 minutes of zapping. It’s fairly painless, too: each pulse feels like light flicks from a rubber


How to distress your denim

Ripped jeans are huge again this season – here’s our DIY guide to get the new look

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From James Long to Baartmans and Siegel, Dolce & Gabbana to Philipp Plein, the jeans on this season’s catwalks were more distressed than ever. And while being right on trend is – in our opinion – reason enough to get on board with the ripped-up revolution, there’s also another critical advantage to it for the warmer months: increased summer ventilation. However, unlike many trends, there’s no need to go out and buy a whole new wardrobe to test – you’ve probably already got most of the raw ingredients in your house already. All it takes is a little DIY. Here’s our guide to distressing your jeans in five seriously straightforward steps.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED: Worn-in jeans From top: G-Star, £170. g-star.com. Next, £32. next.co.uk. Diesel, £130. diesel.com. Superdry, £60. superdry.com. Replay, £135. replayjeans.com. G-Star, £175. Below left: Next, £28.

(either and old pair or a pre-worn pair from a vintage store) Pencil, tailor’s chalk or pen (with washable ink) Sharp Stanley knife Medium-grit sandpaper (the kind you’d use for smoothing bare wood) Needle

Before

After

// Step 1

// Step 2

// Step 3

// Step 4

// Step 5

Slip your jeans on and mark with a pen where you’d like the rips to occur. In order for this to look most realistic, we recommend just below the knee.

Sandpaper over the area you’ve just marked for an even more lived-in look. To avoid any wardrobe malfunctions in public, be very careful when sanding any seams as this will weaken the core structure of your jeans.

Cut the hole in the location and to the width you desire. We say start with an inch-long slice at first, then increase if necessary. If you want more than one slit, be sure to leave a minimum of half an inch between them so they don’t rip into one giant hole when you wear them.

Use the needle to loosen the threads around the new opening, then use the sandpaper. Rub it horizontally, not vertically – this will distress the horizontal blue threads (the “warp”) and preserve the vertical white threads that help jeans hold their structure (the “weft”).

Wash them (on a cold cycle to prevent shrinkage and colour loss), wear them and let time do the rest.


Jacket, £228. T-shirt, £39.50. Chinos, £75. All by J Crew. jcrew.com. Trainers by Nike, £70. At JD Sports. jdsports.co.uk. Watch by Next, £35. next.co.uk

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Olive, khaki, tobacco and tan are the hottest colours right now, so mix them up and go brown in town for a cool summer that’s down to earth PHOTOGRAPHS BY

Olly Burn

STYLING BY

Grace Gilfeather

Jacket, £55. T-shirt, £10. Trousers, £30. All by River Island. riverisland.com

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Jacket by H+M, £49.99. hm.com. T-shirt by Next, £6. next.co.uk. Jeans by Uniqlo, £35. uniqlo.com

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Coat, £80. Jumper, £25. Jeans, £38. All by Topman. topman.com. Denim jacket by New Look, £30. newlook.com. Watch by Larsson & Jennings, £215. larssonandjennings.co.uk

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Suit by Reiss, £545. reiss.com. T-shirt by H&M, £24.99. hm.com. Watch by River Island, £28. riverisland.com. Sunglasses by Whistles, £65. whistles.com

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Jacket, £50. Polo neck, £28. Both by Topman. topman.com. Jeans by 7 for all Mankind, £180. 7forallmankind.co.uk. Sunglasses by Whistles, £65. whistles.co.uk. Watch by Larsson & Jennings, £215. larssonandjennings.com

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Jacket, £75. Shirt, £20. Trousers, £35. Sunglasses, £14. All by Next. next.co.uk

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Jacket, £90. Shirt, £18. T-shirt, £8. All by New Look. newlook.com. Chinos by Next, £20. next.co.uk. Trainers by Whistles, £115. whistles.co.uk. Watch by River Island, £28. riverisland.com

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Shirt by Asos, ÂŁ30. asos.com

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Grooming Craig Taylor at One Represents Model Sam Way at Models 1

Shirt by Uniqlo x Lemaire, £30. uniqlo.com. Shorts, £16. Watch, £25. Both by Next. next.co.uk. Sunglasses by Taylor Morris, £210. taylor-morris.com

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Nehjat Ramoth, 40 Occupation: Store manager, Club Monaco Looking for: Smart white trainers. GQ says: These white trainers have a tactile, textured surface that instantly puts them above a basic canvas plimsoll. Wear with rolled-up denim or chinos. Simple. Trainers by French Connection, £95. frenchconnection.com

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Al MacCuish, 44 Occupation: Chief creative officer, Sunshine Looking for: A coat that will go with everything. GQ says: Every man should have a go-to camel overcoat. Perfect for cool summer nights and rainy days, the camel colour will lift any outfit and looks great with pale denim. Opt for a singlebreasted, slim lapel like this Topman version for added sophistication. Coat by Topman, £150. topman.com

Alex Emaviwe, 29 Occupation: IT account manager Looking for: Jeans with the right fit. GQ says: Denim is the essential item in every man’s wardrobe. Dark denim can be either dressed up with a relaxed jacket and brogues or down with trainers and a simple, plain T-shirt for a more casual look – neither can be faulted. Jeans by Diesel, £190. store.diesel.com

Street shrink

Open season

Mark Nash. 38 Occupation: Managing director, Clements and Church Looking for: Smart shoes in a non-trad colour. GQ says: Perfect for all situations, the versatility of the Monk-strap shoe is second to none. The most noticeable item a man wears can be found on his feet, so opt for a burgundy colour to stand out. Monk-strap shoes by Massimo Dutti, £100. massimodutti.com

GQ searches for the missing pieces that will solve your real style dilemmas Dom Fleming Carlotta Constant

PORTRAITS BY COMPILED BY

Andy Cottington, 33 Occupation: Fashion marketing executive Looking for: A casual jacket that won’t go out of fashion. GQ says: The Harrington is the iconic waist-length, lightweight jacket – get yours in khaki for a seasonal update. Jacket by Next, £48. next.co.uk

Nicholas Walter, 31 Occupation: Buyer Looking for: A breathable polo shirt for a comfortable commute. GQ says: This knitted open weave short-sleeve polo from Reiss is a great statement piece to have as part of your summer capsule wardrobe. Wear with tailored trousers and a jacket to give a relaxed smart look or with a pair of grey chinos. Polo shirt by Reiss, £75. reiss.com

William Modoseanu, 23 Occupation: Retail assistant Looking for: A classic but inexpensive shirt. GQ says: A white button-down shirt is at the core of every stylish wardrobe. Finding the ideal shirt for your body type is tough but this H&M one seems to be a universal fit – just beware of where the upper-arm seam finishes: it should align with the end of your shoulders. Shirt by H&M, £14.99. hm.com

Still-life photography Jody Todd

Christian de Cruz, 43 Occupation: Psychotherapist Looking for: A quality, affordable weekend bag. GQ says: Stylish yet practical, a canvas weekend bag is the ideal holdall to go for. This lightweight material can be folded away when not in use, yet can carry all your necessities for a weekend away. Holdall by Sandqvist, £205. sandqvist.net



Gq june 2016 uk