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DIY I awesome totes, home dec, accessories & more

special issue 2015

30 MUST-HAVE

PROJECTS

TO CROCHET NOW!

SASSY LACE CORSET SOCKS LACE CUFFS NECKLACE & MORE

HOW TO

CROCHET

`

step-by-step

guide

GEEK CHIC

Embrace your inner Time Lord

PLUS Hot Crochet Books Yarn Play Macramé, Pom-Poms, & More

InterweaveCrochet.com


40+

projects! Coming 11/15

BAGS VESTS SCARVES MITTS HATS & MORE

shop.crochetme.com


Contents Crochetscene | 2015

Projects Get Your Geek On 19 Riverbend Skirt Jennifer Raymond

Features Another Layer 101 Plaiter Scarf Brenda K. B. Anderson Instructions page 110

Instructions page 28

20

Cyborg Scarf Daniela Nii

21

Oodles Scarf Sue Perez

22

Cyborg Bag Daniela Nii

103 GF*BF Mitts Suzanne Hirth Instructions page 113

Instructions page 32

105 Isosceles Cowl Brenda K. B. Anderson Instructions page 110

Instructions page 34

106 Baskerville Cowl Jill Wright Instructions page 114

Instructions page 30

23

Caffeine & Chocolate Molecules Earrings Lori Carlson

108 Wriggle Wrap Edie Eckman Instructions page 112

Departments

Instructions page 26

24

Network Purse Shelby Allaho

002 004 006 116 128

Instructions page 35

25

016 Book Excerpt: 3 Skeins or Less: Quick Crocheted Accessories Sharon Zientara 038 Yarn Play Vickie Howell, Lily Chin, Marcy Smith 072 Book Excerpt: It Girl Crochet Sharon Zientara 076 DIY Mesh Bags Jennifer E. Ryan 082 Everyday Crochet Kathryn Vercillo 118 Crochet Basics

Crossed Arrow Vest Jennifer Raymond Instructions page 27

Photo Index Editor’s Note Mercantile Project Designers Back Page

Fresh Takes 47 Bubbles Sweater Jill Wright Instructions page 69

48

Tribbles Vests Doris Chan

50

Originator Tote Nicoletta Tronci

52

Swish-Swish Skirt Jill Hanratty

Instructions page 58

Instructions page 64

get the

Instructions page 54

Windsong Necklace Kathryn White

87

Puff Shrug April Garwood

89

Lace Cuffs Alla Koval

90

Corset Socks Brenda K. B. Anderson

Instructions page 98

sh

Instructions page 94

86

Tribbles Vests op

co m

KIT

Siren Song 84 Bow Wrap Jennifer Raymond

e. .cro chetm

Instructions page 94

Instructions page 97

Instructions page 92

91

Petal Top Natasha Robarge Instructions page 95

Above: Tribbles Vest, Page 48. On the cover: Petal Top, Page 91. Photos by Harper Point Photography


Photo Index | your handy visual guide

get your geek on

Book Excerpt Corona Cowl Page 16

Cyborg Scarf Pages 20, 32

Oodles Scarf Pages 21, 34

Riverbend Skirt Pages 19, 28

Cyborg Bag Pages 22, 30

Caffeine & Chocolate Molecules Earrings Pages 23, 26

Network Purse Pages 24, 35

Wall Hanging Page 40

Fun Flowers Page 41

Yarn P lay Crossed Arrow Vest Pages 25, 27

Pegboard Art Page 42

MacramĂŠ Necklace Page 41

Pom-Pom Wreath Page 42

Bubbles Sweater Pages 47, 69

2 Crochetscene

2015

Pom-Pom Garland Page 43

Tribbles Vests Pages 48, 58

Weaving Sticks Bag Page 44

Originator Tote Pages 50, 64


Book Excerpt Sienna Top Page 72

Swish-Swish Skirt Pages 52, 54

Crochet your bag your way

DIY Mesh Bags Page 76

Bow Wrap Pages 84, 94

Windsong Necklace Pages 86, 98

Corset Socks Pages 90, 92

GF*BF Mitts Pages 103, 113

Puff Shrug Pages 87, 94

Lace Cuffs Pages 89, 97

Plaiter Scarf Pages 101, 110

Petal Top Pages 91, 95

Isosceles Cowl Pages 105, 110

Baskerville Cowl Pages 106, 114

Crochetscene

Wriggle Wrap Pages 108, 112

interweavecrochet.com

3


Editor’s Letter | Welcome to Crochetscene!

I love page 23. Truly, I love every single page, but page 23 embodies every little bit of what we love about Crochetscene. Go ahead and take a look. I’ll wait here. It’s awesome, yes? What I love about this page starts with the imaginatively geeky design conjured up by Lori Carlson: crocheting molecules of caffeine and chocolate. That is awesome all by itself, but also she did them in thread, so you can dangle them from your ears! She even explains the exact molecular structure, in case you want to know. Selecting projects for all the Interweave Crochet issues is a wonderful, humbling experience, and Crochetscene attracts truly inspired designs. I never cease to be amazed at what designers dream up. The stunning model was made even more stunning at the hands of our talented hair-and-makeup stylist, Janie Rocek, and wardrobe stylist, Tina Gill. This shot was taken at the end of two days of cold, cold, snowy weather. We were winding down, but

Special Issue

Editorial Director Helen Gregory Editor Marcy Smith Managing Editor Allison Mackin Assistant Editor Rachel Koon Projects Daniela Nii, Sarah Read Technical Editors Joan Beebe, Lindsay Glenn, Julie

when the late-day sun burst into the room, making our model (impossibly) more beautiful, our tireless photographer, Nathan Rega, snapped these final shots and our magic was wrapped— for the moment. Our page designer, Kit Kinseth, unwrapped the shots and made selections, designing a page that shows both the beauty of the photographs and also the detail on the project. Because that’s what it’s all about: showing the project clearly enough that you can see it. Behind the scenes on this page is Daniela Nii, our stunt project editor, who combed over the pattern so that you can re-create it without a stumble. But we weren’t finished yet. The earrings call for a few jewelry skills to make them as shown (you have the option of skipping this step, of course—they are your earrings). So our assistant editor, Rachel Koon, added information to let you know where you can find a terrific instructional video and free eBook, both produced by our sister beading group. Since we know you are a crafty lot, we thought you’d like to know. This one page is but an example of what you will find on all the pages of this special issue of Crochetscene: terrific designs clearly shown to inspire and create, with information about more Interweave products that can enhance your creative experience. (Be sure to check out our Crochetscene-exclusive section Yarn Play, which includes macramé, pom-poms, and weaving!) We’ll get out of your way now, so you can get about the magic of making.

{ and the whole Crochetscene gang! }

Crochetscene is a special issue of Interweave Crochet® (ISSN 19370008) published by Interweave, a division of F+W Media, Inc., 4868 Innovation Dr., Fort Collins, CO 80525-5546. (800) 272-2193. All contents of this issue of Crochetscene are copyrighted by F+W Media, Inc., 2015. All rights reserved. Projects and information are for inspiration and personal use only. Reproduction in whole or in part is prohibited, except by permission of the publisher. We’ve made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the contents of this publication. However, human errors do occur. If you have questions regarding a pattern in this issue, please visit us online at interweavecrochet.com/corrections.asp.

Armstrong Holetz, Marty Miller, Kristine Mullen, Daniela Nii, Elizabeth Sullivan, Lorna Wilkey Copy Editor Laurel Robinson Proofreader Nancy Arndt Crochet Me Editor Toni Rexroat ......................................................................................

Crochetscene, a special issue of Interweave Crochet® does not recommend, approve, or endorse any of the advertisers, products, services, or views advertised in Crochetscene. Nor does Crochetscene evaluate the advertisers’ claims in any way. You should, therefore, use your own judgment in evaluating the advertisers, products, services, and views advertised in Crochetscene.

Creative Director, Interweave Larissa Davis Art Director Kit Kinseth Production Designer Lee Ann Short Photography Harper Point Photography Photostyling Tina Gill Hair & Makeup Janie Rocek Technical Illustration Joan Beebe, Lindsay Glenn,

Visit the Interweave Crochet® website at interweavecrochet.com. For advertising info, call Diane Kocal at (317) 482-0120, email dkocal@interweave.com, or visit the website at interweavecrochet.com. For sales info, call (317) 482-0120, email sales@interweave.com. For editorial inquiries, call (800) 272-2193, email crochet@interweave.com, or write to 4868 Innovation Dr., Fort Collins, CO 80525-5576

Julie Armstrong Holetz, Kristine Mullen, Daniela Nii ......................................................................................

Advertising Manager Diane Kocal Advertising Manager Sally Finnegan Ad Trafficker Mary Lutz Classified Advertising Tina Hickman Marketing Manager, eCommerce Julianne Atwood

4 Crochetscene

2015

U.S. & Canadian Customer Service: (800) 835-6187 International Customer Service: (515) 237-3657 Fax Number: (712) 733-1277 Retailers: If you are interested in carrying this magazine in your store please call (800) 289-0963 or email sales@fwcommunity.com.

Founder, Creative Director Linda Ligon Vice President, Group Publisher Shahla Hebets Senior Production Manager Nancy Pollock Vice President, eCommerce Marketing Evelyn Bridge Director, Magazine Marketing & Fulfillment Mark Fleetwood

...................................................................................... F+W, A Content + eCommerce Company Chairman & CEO David Nussbaum Chief Operating Officer & CFO James Ogle President Sara Domville Chief Digital Officer Chad Phelps Senior Vice President, Operations Phil Graham Vice President, Communications Stacie Berger

Enjoy the entire family of Interweave Fiber Magazines: Handwoven • Interweave Knits • Interweave Crochet • Knitscene • knit.wear • PieceWork • Spin.Off

Visit us on the web crochetme.com • interweave.com • fwmedia.com


Mercantile A gathering of goodies selected just for you.

We love Gleener Bags! These adorable bags—from the folks who brought us the Ultimate Fuzz Remover—are big enough to hold large projects such as sweaters, and cute enough to make you the envy of all your friends (and neighbors, and coworkers, and people on the street . . .). The sturdy canvas construction makes them durable, so you can carry one wherever you go. Believe us, you’ll want to!

www.gleener.com

6 Crochetscene

2015


All

Things

Ready to set up your crochet tool box? Here's some cool stuff from Tulip.

Tulip Hooks Be prepared for on-the-go crochet with this limited-edition hook set. The Etimo Rose Hook Set from Tulip has ten hooks from sizes 2.00 mm (just smaller than a B) to 6.00 mm (J) so you can work on projects in a range of gauges. (Note that the hooks are marked in numbers only, but you can easily slide in a chart with U.S. letter equivalents if that’s helpful to you.) The convenient carrying case has a clear zippered pouch to hold your pattern, stitch markers, scissors, or other small items. We’re partial to this adorable gingham, but the case is also available in solid pink.

bit.ly/tulip-hook-set

Tulip and Heart Stitch Markers Put a smile on your face with these fun, cheerful stitch markers from Tulip. The user-friendly design means these markers will stay put on your projects but are easy to add and remove. The round-nose locking mechanism is designed not to split your yarn. Available in tulips and hearts, they come in a handy tin so you don’t have to worry about keeping track of them while you work.

bit.ly/tulip-stitch-markers

Crochetscene

interweavecrochet.com

7


Mercantile | things you’ll love

ON THE BOOKSHELF

Colorful Crochet Lace: 22 Chic Garments and Accessories

Designer Crochet: 32 Patterns to Elevate Your Style

3 Skeins or Less: Quick Crocheted Accessories

Mary Jane Hall

Shannon Mullett-Bowlsby

Sharon Zientara

Crochet a range of colorful lace designs from Colorful Crochet Lace, including chic shrugs and scarves, cozy cardigans and tunics, stylish dresses, T-shirts, and totes. Worked in a variety of yarn weights, the projects include simple, allover openwork patterns as well as intricate crochet lace patterns and motifs. With clear instructions, detailed stitch diagrams, and gorgeous photography, Colorful Crochet Lace makes it easy to create exquisite crochet fashions.

In Designer Crochet, you’ll find a collection of sophisticated and figure-flattering garments for wearers of all sizes. Shannon uses a variety of stitch patterns, motifs, and lightweight yarns to show you how to create beautiful pieces such as cardigans, dresses, tanks, and hoodies—plus several accessories. With more than thirty projects to choose from in sizes small through 5X, crocheters can create an entire wardrobe from this one book.

Grab your crochet hook and whip up some fabulous projects from 3 Skeins or Less: Quick Crocheted Accessories. Join Sharon Zientara and her selected designers as they share budget-friendly projects that are quick to crochet or offer a beautiful way to use a special skein of luxury yarn. With twenty-four to choose from, including hats, scarves, shawls, caplets, socks, slippers, mittens, and more, you’re sure to find multiple projects to make for yourself or as gifts.

Paperback, 160 pages, $24.99 ISBN: 9781620336984

Paperback, 224 pages, $22.95 ISBN: 9781454708728

Paperback, 136 pages, $22.99 ISBN: 9781620337891

The Crochet Home

The Crocheter’s Skill-Building Workshop

Finger Knitting Fun: 28 Cute, Clever, and Creative Projects for Kids

Emma Lamb Transform your home with this beautiful collection of twenty vintage modern crochet projects for the home, including flower garlands, blankets and throws, and delightful doilies and pillows. Emma shares her unique skill for combining colors as well as key tips on crochet techniques, presented in both written patterns and stitch diagrams.

Paperback, 144 pages, $24.99 ISBN 9781446304853

Dora Ohrenstein Dora Ohrenstein explains all the basic crochet techniques you need, from selecting the right yarn to finishing. More than seventy stitch-along swatches demonstrate specific techniques, plus five projects let you put your new skills to work. Dora shows you how you can use the swatches to create a variety of shapes and create building blocks for projects of your own design.

Paperback, 256 pages, $19.95 ISBN: 9781612122465

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Vickie Howell Have a ball of yarn, bored kiddos, and some spare time? Then you need Finger Knitting Fun, a collection of twenty-eight quick and simple projects perfect for kids. Each project includes step-bystep, easy-to-follow instructions, as well as skill level indicators so kids can choose a project that’s right for them. From jewelry to bags to room décor, kids will enjoy creating these projects for themselves and their friends!

Paperback, 96 pages, $19.99 ISBN: 9781592539253


In the Loop

I Cherry Blossom Necklace I recently was gifted with a subscription to your magazine Interweave Crochet. What a wonderful treat! The patterns were wonderful, but best of all they inspired me to create my own projects. I made the Cherry Blossom Necklace from the Spring 2015 magazine, which inspired me to make a new bracelet design, which led to another necklace and bracelet. I can’t wait to start my next project from your beautiful magazine. Jennifer Y. Hillsdale, Michigan Jennifer, how lovely! Readers, if you are interested in subscribing to our regular quarterly magazine, you can write to crochet @emailcustomer service.com. You can see previews of our issues at www.crochetme.com. You can find our next special issue, Interweave Crochet Accessories, on the newsstand in early November. Hope to see you again soon!

More Crochet Adventures! Are you a crochet newbie? We’re so glad you picked up this copy of Crochetscene! On page 118, you’ll find all the basic info to get started on this most excellent crochet adventure. We can’t take responsibility, though, if you are unable to stop once you get started. In fact, we’re going to go a step further and enable you! Here are a few resources in our very own Crochet Me Shop, starting with super-newbie and taking you up to more adventurous. Step right in wherever you feel is best! 1 We’ll start you off with the Beginner’s Guide to Crochet. In addition to instructions and diagrams, this book has 20 super projects from one-day potholders to a full afghan. It also has a special “extreme crocheting” section with informa-

1

2

tion on making “yarn” from old t-shirts to create large-scale projects. bit.ly/beginners-guide-crochet 2 Want to focus your new crochet skills? Feel like you’ll learn better with someone right there to walk you through the steps? Let Mary Beth Temple into your home to guide you through making your first hat. This brimmed bottom-up hat will make a great gift as well! bit.ly/crochet-first-hat 3 Are you ready to make sense of all those nifty drawings in your crochet patterns? Dora Ohrenstein will help

3

4

you understand the symbols and how they work together in the diagram, so you’ll be able to crochet patterns from anywhere, even if the written part is in a different language! bit.ly/read-stitch-diagrams 4 When you’re ready to step up your crochet game, this is a book you’ll definitely want in your collection. Throughout the book, Kim Werker provides excellent tips and engaging commentary. The stars, of course, are the “Designs to Fuel the Crochet Revolution,” which are just as amazeballs now as when the book came out in 2007. bit.ly/crochet-me-ebook

Crochetscene

interweavecrochet.com

9


Mercantile | things you’ll love

Lily Chin has been designing for Interweave in crochet (and knitting!) for a while now. Her innovative approach to craft means that her designs are always interesting to crochet and her eye for couture means that the designs are always stylish. Those are just two of the things that we love about Lily. Her mastery of crochet combined with her wicked wit makes for truly engaging, informative DVD workshops. Dip into Lily’s world—you’ll be glad you did! bit.ly/lily-chin

Crocheter’s Toolbox

GO LILY!

bit.ly/crocheters-toolbox

Lily Chin, one of our favorite designers, as well as a well-known crochet and knit designer, was inducted into the Jean Leinhauser Crochet Hall of Fame at the Crochet Guild of America’s annual conference held in San Diego, California. We particularly love Lily’s innovative approach to most everything fibery—check out what she made with weaving sticks and a crochet hook on page 44. The Crochet Hall of Fame honors those who have made significant contributions to the excellence and promotion of the art of crochet; inductees are nominated and elected by CGOA members. The first inductee was Jean Leinhauser, a longtime crochet designer and publisher, who, sadly, lost her battle with cancer before she could receive the award in person. The honor was then renamed the Jean Leinhauser CGOA Hall of Fame. Inductees since include Margaret Hubert (2012) and Rita Weiss (2013). In 2014, the twentieth anniversary of CGOA, the honor went to Gwen Blakely Kinsler, the founder of the Crochet Guild of America. The Crochet Guild of America, founded in 1994, provides education, networking resources, and a national standard for the quality, art, and skill of crochet. More information about membership and how to form local chapters of CGOA can be found at www .crochet.org. In addition, you can find out how you can attend the 2016 conference with a fabulous group of crocheters and honor the next inductee into the Crochet Hall of Fame. Hope to see you there!

Lace Skirt with Drawstring Waist

bit.ly/lace -s

ry Dressress Geometom etry-d

Susan Sullivan CGOA President

bit.ly/ge

LEARN MORE about Lily’s great Interweave products bit.ly/lily-chin

10 Crochetscene

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Glam Dress

bit.ly/croche tsummer-201 5

kirt-drawstri

ng


Learn Crochet Cables

How-to video with Robyn Chachula

3 Techniques for Cable Stitches! Have you always wanted to create beautiful, textured cables in crochet, similar to the designs you’ve seen in knitting? Join designer, author, and crochet expert Robyn Chachula! Learn how to create 3 types of easy crochet cables using post stitches, chain stitch embroidery, and short rows! Use the 3 included patterns to crochet throw pillows to accent your home!

Download your copy of Learn Crochet Cables: 3 Techniques for Cable Stitches today! Downloadable video: 50 minutes

shop.crochetme.com

ÂŽ


Mercantile | things you’ll love

Get Inspired! Did our Yarn Play feature (page 38) whet your appetite for more craftiness? Then we’ve got a treat for you! Cathe Holden combines different mediums across various crafts to create unique pieces from everyday, found objects. She’s gathered her ideas and projects in her new Inspired Barn Creative Workshops video and kit series. Here’s more information from Cathe about her projects and sources of inspiration. What is Inspired Barn all about? After an incredible, wide-reaching audience response to my design and craft blog, JustSomethingIMade.com, I was often asked to instruct and speak at various creative events around the country. With young children at home it wasn’t always ideal for me to be away. So after a few years of traveling to teach, it occurred to me that I could invite attendees to classes in my very own workshop here in Petaluma in Northern California. My husband and I repurposed a large storage outbuilding on our property into a big craft studio and classroom. Here I can work, craft, assemble kits, and host DIY events in my community. Unfortunately, teaching primarily here in Northern California limits my workshop availability to those who live in the area. That’s why I’m so very excited about my new video series, all filmed right here at Inspired Barn! I can now share my favorite craft projects, techniques, and style with anyone!

How did you get started crafting?  I suppose I’ve always been a crafter. Even as a small kid I was assembling bits of junk found among the gravel in the alleyway, or scraps of office supplies my mom brought home from work, into funky works of art. As an old-school commercial artist, I segued into handcrafting as more than a hobby a few years after most all graphic design tasks became digitized. I missed working with my hands and began spending time in online communities such as Etsy. I embraced a new and exciting way to pursue my creative endeavors while satisfying my need to work with physical tools and materials through crafting. It was then that I began sharing a graphic designer’s take on crafting on my blog.

How do you envision your style of crafting fitting into the lives of others? I share only what is completely pleasing to me. I search out vintage components, and I love them. They excite me. 12 Crochetscene

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Rather than choosing items that I think other people will like, I choose what I like. I think when I am true to my own loves, people will follow, at least some of them. And it makes me happy. My thing is vintage flair. Bold colors. It is my intention to create projects and products that are both simple and impactful. I do this by designing exciting crafts with easy-to-follow instructions, sharing loads of inspiration for customizing, and developing uncommon materials and products. I’ve tried a lot of things, but now I say, “This is my style. How can I apply it to a variety of different mediums?” The challenge, as a teacher, is also to find things that can be reproduced. If I find a unique object at a flea market, I can make something that I could sell, but I need to ask myself how someone else could achieve the same look. My vision is for Inspired Barn to become a vintage-style brand known for facilitating individual creativity, repurposing, and reimagining. Through instruction, ideas, products, and materials, it is my hope that Inspired Barn will become an extraordinary handcraft resource for multiple craft genres online, in print, and in stores.

Do you have any advice for someone looking to branch into other kinds of crafting? Workshops, whether local to you, at creative events, or online, are a fantastic way to try a new style of crafting. Most workshops provide kits for purchase that have most of the things you will need to create a finished project. Once the project is complete, you will know for sure if you would like to continue in that direction of crafting or not. If you’re wanting to try something new on your own and outside of a workshop, use online videos to learn about the various tools, materials, and techniques before spending too much money on supplies that you may or may not enjoy using.  You may also consider incorporating the craft techniques you know into fun, new projects. Try machine stitching and handstitching paper projects; use small, vintage, or scrapbook components to embellish your sewing projects; handstitch flowers, tiny pockets, or other fun shapes into components for use in collage, mixed media, even jewelry crafts. Use your stash as découpage elements.  Editor’s note: This is an excellent opportunity to experiment with those tiny flowers you crocheted or bits of leftover yarn.

Have you ever had a major project mishap? Nothing major yet, but certainly lots of small mishaps, which more often than not took a project in a fantastic new direction. I believe mistakes should be embraced when possible. So much good can come from a happy accident. And this is what we love most about Cathe Holden and about all crafts: mishaps often lead to beauty, not only in the crafted product, but also in our own minds. Creating broadens our outlook and encourages innovation and problem solving in a quest to make our vision a reality.


CLEVER WALL HOOK

TRAY & COASTERS

BAY LAUREL MIRROR

VIDEO


Mercantile | things you’ll love

Top Design Tips

I from Cathe Holden

We love these tips because they can be applied to all sorts of crafts, including crochet designs! We added some notes after Cathe’s great tips with examples of how to apply them to crochet. CONTRAST CREATES IMPACT. Pair objects and materials of an unlikely nature: soft with rough, dark with light, shiny with dull. A good example would be combining shiny, gilded hardware with rough, distressed wood.  Combine thick yarn with thin yarn, using the same crochet hook, to make a scarf that has contrasting dense crochet fabric with airy fabric.

BALANCE SOOTHES THE EYE. If you use a spot of red in one area of your design, add red of any nature, size, or form to two other areas. This concept works for textures and shapes as well, adding a harmonic feel to your finished piece. This is a great way to approach a motif afghan! You could also apply it to a motif-based shawl or top, incorporating your own color scheme.

bit.ly/babette-blanket

STEP AWAY FROM PINTEREST. Grab a sketchbook and pen. Find a quiet place to be still and close your eyes—even if that means sitting in your car in the driveway. Daydream. Design from within, rather than looking elsewhere for resources and inspiration. Imagine beautiful, pleasing images and compositions. Open your eyes and sketch them in your book, adding necessary notes for future reference. You might be surprised at just how creative you truly are. ’Nuff said! Imagine your ideal project, sketch it, then use your pattern and yarn resources to figure out how to make it happen.

bit.ly/crochet-garden 14 Crochetscene

2015


CROCHETED ACCESSORIES —easy as 1,

2, 3!

In Quick Crocheted Accessories, author Sharon Zientara debuts a lovely collection that makes use of one, two, or three skeins of yarn. Allowing for both unexpected color play and larger projects, featured designs include stitch patterns and motifs that are textural, reversible, and fresh. From scarves and shawls to hats, fingerless mitts, and socks, Quick Crocheted Accessories shows just how much can be done with three

QUICK

crocheted accessories 3

skeins or less

skeins or less! Sharon Zientara

Available Now

www.interweavestore.com

9781620337981 | US $22.99/CAN $25.50 | 136 pages


Book Excerpt

Corona Cowl Brenda K. B. Anderson

16 Crochetscene

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Excerpt from 3 Skeins or Less: Quick Crocheted Accessories By Sharon Zientara

This cowl was inspired by the stackable jelly bracelets of the 1980s. It’s fun to watch each tube stripe up in a new color. The cowl is also easy to customize by simply removing or adding tubes.

Interweave/F+W 2015

GET THE BOOK bit.ly/3-skeins -or-less

Getting Started Finished Size Size S with directions for sizes M and L in parentheses. Each tube measures about 22" (56 cm) in circumference and about ¾" (2 cm) tall. Sample is shown with 8 tubes. Cowl will stretch at least 2" (5 cm) in circumference to fit over the head. Button strap measures 8 (9, 10)" (20.5 [23, 25.5] cm) long, including about 2" (5 cm) of overlap when buttoned. Yarn Sportweight (#2 Fine). Shown here: Zitron Unisono (100% virgin superwash wool; 328 yd [300 m]/3½ oz [100 g]): #1203, 2 skeins. Yarn distributed by Skacel Collection, Inc. Hook Size F/5 (3.75 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions Stitch marker (m); yarn needle; 1½" (3.8 cm) button; embroidery needle or sewing needle and thread (if the button holes are too small for an embroidery needle and yarn to fit through). Gauge 20 sts and 14 rounds = 4" [10 cm] in hdcbb stitch pattern worked in the round. You can also check your gauge by working one tube and checking the fit. (See Note.)

Note Each tube is made beginning with a long foundation chain. The first row is worked into the bottom of the chain, and the remainder of the tube is worked in the round without joining. A round of sl sts will attach the foundation row to the last row worked, creating a hollow tube.

Stitch Guide Half double crochet through the back bar (hdcbb): This is just a regular hdc st made into the back bar of the previous round of sts. The back bar is the horizontal strand on the WS of a hdc st situated about halfway between the top and bottom of the stitch. When you work into this stitch, the RS will be facing you, and you will tilt the work towards you to see the back of the hdc, slide your hook through the bar from top to bottom (in a downward motion), yo and pull up a loop, yo, and draw through all 3 loops on hook.

TUBE (MAKE 8) Ch 121. Row 1: Beg with second ch from hook and working in bottom bump of ch, hdc in each of next 120 sts—120 sts. Place st marker (pm) in top of beg hdc. Do not join. Rnd 2: Beg with the marked st, and being careful not to twist the strip of crochet, 1 hdcbb (see Stitch Guide) in each st around—120 sts. Rnds 3–7: Hdcbb in each st—120 sts.

Rnd 8: 2 hdcbb sts in beg st (to reposition the working lp), ch 1, turn work so WS is facing, fold work with WS tog (foundation ch is directly in front of last rnd worked), sl st these two edges tog by working under the front lp of foundation ch (the edge in front) and at the same time, under the back bar of the last rnd worked (the edge in back). When working into back bar, insert hook under back bar in an upward motion—from bottom to top. Make sure that sl sts are loose as to not affect the elasticity of the tube. Fasten off, leaving a 10" (25.5 cm) yarn tail. Use yarn needle and yarn tails to sew the little holes closed at beg of rnds. Weave in ends.

BUTTON STRAP Strap is designed to fit 4–6 (7–9, 10–12) tubes and measures 8 (9, 10)" (20.5 [23, 25.5] cm) in length, including a 2" (5 cm) overlap. Ch 39 (45, 51). Row 1: Leave long beg tail (to sew button on), starting with 12th ch from hook, and working in bottom bump, sc in each of the next 28 (34, 40) chs. Rnd 2: Keeping the same side facing, rotate piece 180 degrees to work in opposite side of foundation ch, 2 hdc in each of next 2 sts (pm in first hdc of rnd to keep track of beg of rnds), hdc in each of the next 26 (32, 38) sts, 18 hdc in ch-lp, hdc in each of the next 26 (32, 38) sts, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 sts—78 (90, 102) sts. Do not join, but continue to work in the rnd with RS facing. Rnd 3: [2 hdcbb in each of the next 2 sts, hdcbb in each of the next 35 (41, 47) sts, 1 hdcbb into each of the next 2 sts] twice—86 (98, 120) sts. Rnd 4: [2 hdcbb in each of the next 2 sts, hdcbb in each of the next 39 (45, 51) sts, 1 hdcbb in each of the next 2 sts] twice—94 (106, 118) sts. Rnd 5: [2 hdcbb in each of the next 2 sts, hdcbb in each of the next 43 (49, 55) sts, 1 hdcbb in each of the next 2 sts] twice—102 (114, 126) sts. Rnd 6: Sl st in the back bar of each st around. Make sure that sl sts are loose enough so they will not constrict the edges of the button strap.

Fasten off.

FINISHING Block lightly if necessary. Use embroidery needle and beg yarn tail to sew button to RS of button strap. The center of the button should match up with the point where this yarn tail comes out of the fabric. Weave in ends. Wrap button strap around tubes and fasten button.

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Riverbend Skirt by Jennifer Raymond. This practical skirt has an advanced sense of fun, with a good bit of drape and movement. Shaped with wedges of crochet, the skirt has a bit of an A-line silhouette. Work the skirt in one color for a more professional look, or mix it up and alternate colors on the wedges. Yarn: Misti Alpaca Tonos Pima Silk. Page 28.

Give your wardrobe a twist of the twisted.

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Cyborg Scarf by Daniela Nii. Interstellar nights can be nippy, so be sure to travel with this colorful scarf. Circles morph into rectangles that are joined as you go with bobble strips. Colorful tassels finish off the scarf. (It’s easy to customize with your own color options as well.) Yarn: Lion Brand Wool-Ease. Page 32.

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Oodles Scarf by Sue Perez. This lacy scarf has oodles of wearing options, including a casual cowl, a ceremonial sash, a cozy scarf, or a multiwrapped neck warmer. Thread the tendrils through the crochet “wormhole” for maximum warmth, or let the wavy ends blow free. Yarn: Lorna’s Laces Shepherd Sock. Page 34.

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Cyborg Bag by Daniela Nii. This tote is bigger on the inside, so it has plenty of room for your extraterrestrial paraphernalia. Worked flat in tapestry crochet, dots of color march up a neutral gray background; the bottom of the bag is worked from the center out in colorful concentric circles. A single shoulder strap allows for easy carrying, and a drawstring cinches the bag to keep your screwdriver from falling out. Yarn: Lion Brand Wool-Ease. Page 30.

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Caffeine and Chocolate Molecules Earrings by Lori Carlson. Get your geek on with this set of molecules! Caffeine and theobromine—a molecule found in chocolate—are structurally similar, with the difference being an additional methyl group bonded to a nitrogen. The methyl groups are represented by a triple picot; the double-bonded oxygens are represented by an open picot. (For supergeeks, 1,3,7-trimethylpurine-2,6-dione and 3,7-dimethylpurine-1H-2,6-dione are the systematic names for caffeine and theobromine, respectively.) Yarn: Lizbeth Thread Size 20 (distributed by Handy Hands). Page 26.

LEARN MORE ABOUT BEADING bit.ly/Jewelry -Making-Guide bit.ly/Simple-Loops

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Network Purse by Shelby Allaho. A modern silhouette is a blank slate for surface crochet embellishments, including an on-trend mesh insert. A medley of stitches make this a great sampler project for learning new stitches, and it’s easy to “purse”-onalize with your own favorite colors. Yarn: Schachenmayr Catania (distributed by Westminster Fibers). Page 35.

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Crossed Arrow Vest by Jennifer Raymond. Worked in one piece with seaming only at the shoulders, this simple vest is a great first garment. Back-loop-only crochet creates a ribbed fabric that gently hugs the body, and broomstick lace finishes the edging. Wear open or with a shawl pin—or pen. Yarn: Plymouth Yarn Encore Chunky. Page 27.

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beads; two 1" pieces of beading wire or 2 headpins; round-nose pliers; chain-nose pliers; wire cutter (optional). Gauge: 12 sc = 1".

Notes Functional groups methyl and carbonyl are worked in hdc. First rnd is worked the same for both molecules. Join with sl st at the end of each rnd unless otherwise stated.

Stitch Guide Carbonyl group: Ch 8, sl st in 6th ch from hook and in next 2 ch, sl st in hdc at base of ch-8. Methyl group: Ch 6, sl st in 3rd ch from hook, [ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook] 2 times, sl st in 3 unworked ch of beg ch-6, sl st in hdc at base of ch 6.

CAFFEINE AND CHOCOLATE MOLECULES EARRINGS

Pattern Base molecule for caffeine and chocolate:

Lori Carlson

1

2

3

With mocha brown dark for chocolate or mocha brown med for caffeine, ch 18, sl st

4

in first ch to form a ring, being careful not to twist. Rnd 1: Ch 1, (sc, hdc, sc) in same ch as join, place marker (pm) in hdc, sc in next 2 ch, (sc, hdc) in next ch, ch 12, drop lp from hook, insert hook through marked hdc, pick up dropped lp and pull through st, working in ch-12, sk first ch, [sc in next 2 ch, (sc, hdc, sc) in next ch] 3 times, sc in last 2 ch, sl st in hdc at base of ch 12, sc in same ch as hdc, [sc in next 2 ch, (sc, hdc, sc) in next ch] 4 times, sc in last 2 ch, sl st in first sc to join—47 sts.

For caffeine only: Rnd 2: St st in next 15 sts, work methyl group (see Stitch Guide), sl st in next 4 sts, ch 6, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in next 4 ch, sl st in next 5 sts, work carbonyl group (see Stitch Guide), sl st in next 5 sts, work methyl group, sl st in next 5 sts, work carbonyl group, sl st in next 5 sts, work methyl group, sl st in last 3 sts, sl st in first sc of Rnd 1 to join. Fasten off.

For chocolate only: Rnd 2: Sl st in next 15 sts, work methyl group (see Stitch Guide), sl st in next 4

Lizbeth Thread Size 20

Getting Started Finished Size About 13⁄4" at widest point. Yarn Lizbeth Thread Size 20 (distributed by Handy Hands) (100% Egyptian cotton; 210 yd [191 m]/¾ oz [25 g]; ): #692 mocha brown dark, #691 mocha brown med, one ball each. Hook Size 4 (1.25 mm) steel hook. Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions 1 st marker (m); yarn needle; 2 fish hook earring findings; two 6 mm

Chocolate

Caffeine

Stitch Key = slip stitch (sl st)

= single crochet (sc)

= chain (ch)

= half double crochet (hdc)

Caffeine

<2 <1

Chocolate

<2 <1

Insert eye pin through this tendril

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Insert eye pin through this tendril


sts, ch 6, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in next 4 ch, sl st in next 5 sts, work carbonyl group (see Stitch Guide), sl st in next 10 sts, work carbonyl group, sl st in next 5 sts, work methyl group, sl st in last 3 sts, sl st in first sc of Rnd 1 to join. Fasten off.

through ch-5 ring on earring, then twist to close. Rep for 2nd earring.

Notions Size 35 (19 mm) knitting needle or other 3⁄4" diameter tool for broomstick technique (for smaller sizes a 12" needle length will be sufficient; for larger sizes 2 needles or a circular needle will be needed); pins; yarn needle; sewing needle; sewing or embroidery thread in similar color to MC for seaming. Gauge 12 sts and 13 rows = 4" in sc blo with larger hook.

All sizes:

FINISHING Weave in ends. Block as desired.

Assembly: Note: If you prefer to skip the beadworking steps, you can simply twist open the loop on the fish hook finding, insert it through the ch-5 loop, then close the loop on the earring. Adding the bead gives the earrings more movement. If using headpins, nip the head off with wire cutters. Make a simple loop: Using the round-nose pliers, grasp one end of the wire. Holding on to the wire with one hand, gently turn the pliers until the wire end and wire body touch. Create a 90° reverse bend where they meet. Slide the bead onto the pin. Make another simple loop at the other end. Using chain-nose pliers, open one loop by grasping it and turning it sideways. Slip this loop onto the loop on the fish hook finding, then twist to close. Open the other loop and slip

Notes Body of vest is worked side-to-side in one piece, beg with left front and ending with right front. Edging is not shown on schematic and adds about 11⁄2" to finished bust measurement.

Stitch Guide Picot: Ch 2, sl st in last sc worked.

CROSSED ARROW VEST

Pattern VEST Left front:

Jennifer Raymond

1

2

3

With larger hook and MC, ch 47 (47, 49, 51, 51, 53). Row 1: (WS) Working in bottom ridge lp of ch, work 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc across, turn—47 (47, 49, 51, 51, 53) sc. Row 2: (RS) Ch 1, sc blo to last st, 2 sc blo in last st, turn—48 (48, 50, 52, 52, 54) sc. Row 3: Ch 1, 2 sc blo in first sc, sc blo across, turn—49 (49, 51, 53, 53, 55) sc. Rows 4–24 (24, 24, 26, 26, 26): Rep Rows 2–3—70 (70, 72, 76, 76, 78) sc.

4 Plymouth Yarn Encore Chunky

Getting Started Finished Size 351⁄2 (371⁄2, 391⁄2, 421⁄2, 441⁄2,

Jump rings connect holes and loops. Open a jump ring by grasping each side of its opening with a pair of pliers; don’t pull apart. Instead, twist in opposite directions so that you can open and close without distorting the shape.

461⁄2)" bust circumference. Garment shown measures 351⁄2", modeled with 4” ease. Yarn Plymouth Yarn Encore Chunky (75% acrylic, 25% wool; 143 yd [131 m]/3½ oz [100 g]; ): #0149 grey (MC), 5 (6, 6, 7, 7, 8) skeins; #0355 purple (CC), 1 skein. Hook Sizes I/9 (5.5 mm) and J/10 (6 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.

Left shoulder: Rows 1–5 (7, 9, 9, 11, 13): Ch 1, sc blo across, turn.

Shape left armhole: Next row: (RS) Ch 1, sc blo in first 46 (46, 48, 50, 50, 52) sts, ch 25 (25, 25, 27, 27, 27), turn, leaving rem sts unworked.

13⁄4 (21⁄4, 3, 3, 33⁄4, 41⁄4)" 4.5 (5.5, 7.5, 7.5, 9.5, 11) cm

To form a simple loop, use flat-nose pliers to make a 90° bend at least 1⁄2" from the end of the wire. Use round-nose pliers to grasp the wire after the bend; roll the pliers toward the bend, but not past it, to preserve the 90° bend. Use your thumb to continue the wrap around the nose of the pliers. Trim the wire next to the bend. Open a simple loop just as you would a jump ring.

151⁄2 (151⁄2, 16, 161⁄2, 161⁄2, 171⁄2)" 39.5 (39.5, 8 (8, 8, 81⁄2, 81⁄2, 81⁄2)" 40.5, 42, 42, 20.5 (20.5, 20.5, 21.5, 44.5) cm 21.5, 21.5) cm

71⁄2 (71⁄2, 71⁄2, 8, 8, 8)" 19 (19, 19, 20.5, 20.5, 20.5) cm

3 (3, 3, 33⁄4, 33⁄4, 33⁄4)" 7.5 (7.5, 7.5, 9.5, 9.5, 9.5) cm 91⁄2 (10, 11, 111⁄2, 12, 13)" 24 (25.5, 28, 29, 30.5, 33) cm

LEFT FRONT

BACK

91⁄4 (93⁄4, 101⁄2, 11, 113⁄4, 121⁄4)" 23.5 (25, 26.5, 28, 30, 31) cm

RIGHT FRONT

91⁄4 (93⁄4, 101⁄2, 11, 113⁄4, 121⁄4)" 23.5 (25, 26.5, 28, 30, 31) cm

151⁄2 (16, 17, 19, 191⁄2, 201⁄2)" 39.5 (40.5, 43, 48.5, 49.5, 52) cm

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Back: Row 1: (WS) Working in bottom ridge lp of ch, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, sc blo in next 46 (46, 48, 50, 50, 52) sc, turn—70 (70, 72, 76, 76, 78) sc. Row 2: (RS) Ch 1, sc blo across, turn. Rows 3–50 (52, 56, 62, 64, 66): Rep Row 2. Fasten off.

Shape right armhole: Row 1: (WS) Ch 24 (24, 24, 26, 26, 26), sk first 24 (24, 24, 26, 26, 26) sc, sc blo in next sc and in each st across, turn—46 (46, 48, 50, 50, 52) sc. Row 2: (RS) Ch 1, sc blo across, working in bottom ridge lp of ch, sc in each ch across, turn—70 (70, 72, 76, 76, 78) sc. Rows 3–6 (8, 10, 10, 12, 14): Ch 1, sc blo across, turn.

Shape right neck: Row 1: (WS) Ch 1, sc2tog (see Glossary), sc blo across, turn—69 (69, 71, 75, 75, 77) sc. Row 2: Ch 1, sc blo to last 2 sts, sc2tog, turn—68 (68, 70, 74, 74, 76) sc. Rows 3–24 (24, 24, 26, 26, 26): Rep Rows 1–2—46 (46, 48, 50, 50, 52) sc. Fasten off.

edge, yo and pull up lp. Row 1: (RS) Ch 1, sc in first 45 (45, 47, 49, 49, 51) sc, 4 sc in next sc, change to smaller hook, work 1 sc in each row-end along right-front neck, back neck and leftfront neck, change to larger hook, working in foundation ch of left front, 4 sc in first st, sc in next 45 (45, 47, 49, 49, 51) sts, do not turn—176 (178, 186, 196, 198, 204) sc. Row 2: (RS) Working left to right, sl last lp on hook onto knitting needle, sk first sc, * pull up lp in blo of next sc, sl lp onto needle; rep from * across, do not turn—176 (178, 186, 196, 198, 204) lps. Row 3: (RS) Draw yarn up to top of needle, making sure not to pull tight, working right to left, insert hook under first 4 (4, 3, 4, 3, 3) lps, draw yarn through lps, ch 1, (2 sc, picot [see Stitch Guide], 2 sc) in same lps, * (2 sc, picot, 2 sc) in next 3 lps; rep from * to last 4 (3, 3, 3, 3, 3) lps, (2 sc, picot, 2 sc) in last 4 (3, 3, 3, 3, 3) lps—58 (59, 62, 65, 66, 68) groups. Fasten off.

FINISHING Weave in ends. Block broomstick lace.

Notions Yarn needle; two 3⁄4" buttons (1 for RS, 1 for WS of skirt); one 1⁄2" button (for WS of skirt); thread to match buttons or MC. Gauge 181⁄2 sts and 23 rows = 4" in sc blo. Swatch will change when wet. Be sure to block.

Notes To create wedges, CC is worked in short-rows, which creates a “step” that can leave a hole. This hole is closed by working in the top of one st and the bottom of another st (see rsc2tog in Stitch Guide). Each time a step is encountered, rsc2tog should be worked.

Stitch Guide Row single crochet two together (rsc2tog): Insert hook in blo of last sc of previous short-row, yo and pull up lp, insert hook in blo of sc 2 rows below, yo and pull up lp, yo and draw through 3 lps on hook. Note: This does not dec a st. It closes the gap created by short-rows.

Pattern SKIRT Beg MC section: With large hook and MC, ch 83 loosely. Row 1: (RS) Working in bottom ridge lp, sc

RIVERBEND SKIRT Jennifer Raymond

1

FINISHING Sew shoulder seams: Shoulder seams are eased into place. Match 5 (7, 9, 9, 11, 13) rows of left front shoulder to first 10 (10, 10, 12, 12, 12) rows of back and pin in place. With sewing needle and thread, sew shoulder seams using mattress stitch (see Glossary). Rep for right shoulder. Note: It is helpful to sew through the bulky yarn instead of through sts themselves.

Edging: Note: All sc in edging are worked through both lps; RS is always facing for broomstick edging. With RS facing, larger hook and CC, insert hook in first st at bottom of right front 28 Crochetscene

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2

3

4 Misti Alpaca Tonos Pima Silk

Getting Started Finished Size 24 (26, 28, 30, 34, 38, 42)" waist circumference and 17" long. Sample shown measures 24", modeled with 1" negative ease. Yarn Misti Alpaca Tonos Pima Silk (83% pima cotton, 17% silk; 327 yd [300 m]/3½ oz [100 g]; ): #TPS37 chirimoya (MC), 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5) hanks; #TPS100 natural cream (CC), 1 (1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2) hanks. Hook Size I/9 (5.5 mm) and G/6 (4 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.


in 2nd ch from hook and in each st across, turn—82 sc. Row 2: (WS) Ch 1, sc blo in each st across, turn. Rep Row 2 thirty-two (thirty-six, thirty-two, thirty-four, thirty-four, thirty-eight, thirtyeight) times. Fasten off (ended at bottom edge of skirt).

CC wedge: Row 1: (RS) Join CC in blo where MC fastened off, ch 1, sc blo in next 70 sts, turn—70 sts. Row 2: (WS) Ch 1, sc blo across, turn. Row 3: Ch 1, sc blo in next 10 sts, turn—10 sts. Row 4: Rep Row 2. Row 5: Ch 1, sc blo in next 9 sts, rsc2tog (see Stitch Guide), sc blo in next 10 sts, turn—20 sts. Row 6: Rep Row 2. Row 7: Ch 1, sc blo in next 19 sts, rsc2tog, sc blo in next 10 sts, turn—30 sts. Row 8: Rep Row 2. Row 9: Ch 1, sc blo in next 29 sts, rsc2tog,

sc blo in next 10 sts, turn—40 sts. Row 10: Rep Row 2. Row 11: Ch 1, sc blo in next 39 sts, rsc2tog, sc blo in next 10 sts, turn—50 sts. Row 12: Rep Row 2. Row 13: Ch 1, sc blo in next 49 sts, rsc2tog, sc blo in next 10 sts, turn—60 sts. Row 14: Rep Row 2. Row 15: Ch 1, sc blo in next 50 sts, turn. Row 16: Rep Row 2. Row 17: Ch 1, sc blo in next 40 sts, turn. Row 18: Rep Row 2. Row 19: Ch 1, sc blo in next 30 sts, turn. Row 20: Rep Row 2. Row 21: Ch 1, sc blo in next 20 sts, turn. Row 22: Rep Row 2. Row 23: Ch 1, sc blo in next 10 sts, turn. Row 24: Rep Row 2. Row 25: Ch 1, [sc blo in next 9 sts, rsc2tog] 6 times, sc blo in next 10 sts, turn—70 sts. Row 26: Rep Row 2. Fasten off (ended at bottom edge).

MC section:

Row 1: (RS) Join MC where CC fastened off, ch 1, sc blo in next 70 CC sts, sc blo in next 12 sts of MC section, turn—82 sts. Row 2: (WS) Ch 1, sc blo in each st across, turn. Rep Row 2 thirty-two (thirty-six, thirty-two, thirty-four, thirty-four, thirty-eight, thirtyeight) times. Fasten off.

Body: Rep CC wedge and MC section 3 [3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6] times—4 [4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7] wedges.

Curved wedge: Row 1: (RS) Join CC where MC was fastened off, ch 1, sc blo in next st, sc2tog (see Glossary) blo, sc blo in next 67 sts, turn—69 sts. Row 2: (WS) Ch 1, sc blo in each st across, turn. Row 3: Ch 1, sc blo in next st, sc2tog blo, sc blo in next 6 sts, turn—8 sts. Row 4: Rep Row 2. Row 5: Ch 1, sc blo in next st, sc2tog blo, sc blo in next 15 sts, turn—17 sts. Row 6: Rep Row 2. Row 7: Ch 1, sc blo in next st, sc2tog blo, sc blo in next 24 sts, turn—26 sts. Row 8: Rep Row 2. Row 9: Ch 1, sc blo in next st, sc2tog blo, sc blo in next 33 sts, turn—35 sts. Row 10: Rep Row 2. Row 11: Ch 1, sc blo in next st, sc2tog blo, sc blo in next 42 sts, turn—44 sts. Row 12: Rep Row 2. Row 13: Ch 1, sc blo in next st, sc2tog blo, sc blo in next 71 sts, turn—73 sts. Row 14: Rep Row 2. Row 15: Ch 1, sc blo in next st, sc2tog blo, sc blo in next 40 sts, turn—42 sts. Row 16: Rep Row 2. Row 17: Ch 1, sc blo in next st, sc2tog blo, sc blo in next 29 sts turn—31 sts. Row 18: Rep Row 2. Row 19: Ch 1, sc blo in next st, sc2tog blo, sc blo in next 18 sts, turn—20 sts. Row 20: Rep Row 2. Row 21: Ch 1, sc blo in next st, sc2tog blo, sc blo in next 7 sts, turn—9 sts. Row 22: Rep Row 2. Row 23: Ch 1, sc blo in next st, sc2tog blo, sc blo in next 56 sts, turn—58 sts. Row 24: Rep Row 2. Fasten off.

Curved MC section: 36 (39, 42, 45, 51, 57, 63)” 91.5 (99, 106.5, 114.5, 129.5, 145, 160) cm

17” (43 cm)

SKIRT

Row 1 (dec): (RS) Join MC where CC was fastened off, ch 1, sc blo in first st, sc2tog blo, sc blo in each st across, turn—1 dec. Row 2 (dec): (WS) Ch 1, sc blo across until 3 sts rem, sc2tog blo, sc blo in last st, turn—1 dec. Rep Rows 1–2 sixteen (eighteen, sixteen, seventeen, seventeen, nineteen, nineteen) times. Fasten off.

Waistband: 5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8) wedges

Note: All sts are worked through both lps. With RS facing, join yarn with sl st in first

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row at top-right edge, ch 1. Row 1: Sc in same st as ch, sc in next row-end, sc2tog over next 2 row-ends, *sc in next 2 row-ends, sc2tog over next 2 row-ends; rep from * across, turn—153 (171, 177, 189, 216, 240, 270) sts. Row 2: (WS) Ch 1, sc in first st, sc2tog 0 (1, 0, 0, 0, 0, 1) time, 2 sc in next st 0 (0, 0, 0, 1, 1, 0) time, sc across until 2 sts rem, sc2tog 0 (1, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0) time, sc to end (if needed), turn—153 (170, 177, 189, 217, 241, 269) sts. Row 3: (RS) Ch 1, *2 sc in next st, sk next 2 sts, ch 1; rep from * 37 (41, 43, 46, 53, 59, 66) times, 2 sc in last st, turn. Rows 4–5: Ch 1, sc in each st and ch-1 sp across, turn. Fasten off.

FINISHING Weave in ends. Attach 3⁄4" button to RS and 1⁄2" button to WS of waistband, sandwiching the waistband fabric between them, at straight edge end of skirt. Attach 2nd 3⁄4" button to WS of waistband at curved edge end of skirt. Skirt is worn with 30-50% overlap. Insert buttons in holes created on Row 3 of waistband. Block by wetting and hanging from waistband.

); #620-501 white frost (F), 1 skein. Hook Size H/8 (5 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions St markers (m); yarn needle; pins. Gauge 17 sts and 18 rows = 4" in tapestry st, worked flat.

Notes Bag body is worked in flat tapestry crochet over a strand of yarn, even when working rows without color changes. This strengthens the bag and keeps it from stretching out. It also maintains the same gauge throughout the bag. It is important to achieve a fairly tight gauge to create a sturdy bag. To work over a strand of yarn, carry the unused color along the top edge of the sts from previous row. Crochet around the unused yarn, encasing it within the sts. Make sure that the carried yarn does not constrict the sts. Every few sts after a color change, pull on the end of the carried yarn so that it’s not too loose, then pull on the fabric so that it’s not too tight. Always change to new color on the last yo of the last st before color change. Bag bottom is worked in rnds over 2nd strand of yarn in same color as working yarn.

changing contrast color for each chart rep to [B, F, C, D, A] 2 times, then B, F, C—14 rows of circles, 5 circles each row. Fasten off, leaving a long tail to seam body.

BOTTOM

Note: Always work over a 2nd strand of yarn in same color as working yarn. Break contrast color when finished but do not break E; instead pull it up on WS to next spot where needed. Rnd 1: With B, ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in first sc to join—6 sc. Rnd 2: Ch 1, inc (see Stitch Guide) in each st around, with E, sl st in first sc to join—12 sc. Rnd 3: With E, ch 1, [sc in next st, inc in next st] around, sl st in first sc to join—18 sc. Rnd 4: Ch 1, [sc in next 2 sts, inc in next st] around, with A, sl st in first sc to join—24 sc. Rnd 5: With A, ch 1, [sc in next 3 sts, inc in next st] around, sl st in first sc to join—30 sc. Rnd 6: Ch 1, [sc in next 4 sts, inc in next st] around, with E, sl st in first sc to join—36 sc.

Stitch Guide Single crochet in reverse (scr): Worked on WS rows only. Insert hook from back to front under top 2 lps in indicated st, yo and pull up lp, yo and draw through both lps on hook. Increase (inc): 2 sc in indicated st—1 st inc’d.

Pattern BODY

CYBORG BAG Daniela Nii

1

2

3

4 Lion Brand Wool-Ease

Getting Started  Finished Size 151⁄2" tall and 121⁄2" in diameter; strap: about 40" long and 21⁄2" wide. Yarn Lion Brand Wool-Ease (80% acrylic, 20% wool; 197 yd [180 m]/3 oz [85 g]; ): #620-151 grey heather (MC), 2 skeins; #620-159 mustard (A), #620-107 blue heather (B), #620-199 pumpkin (C), #620-188 paprika (D), #620-152 oxford grey (E), 1 skein each. Lion Brand Wool-Ease (70% acrylic, 20% wool, 10% nylon; 162 yd [146 m]/2½ oz [70 g];

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Note: Use strand from 2nd ball of yarn to work over. Tip: Mark RS with a removable marker for easier identification. With MC, ch 59. Row 1: (RS) Working over 2nd strand of MC, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, turn—58 sc. Row 2: Ch 1, scr (see Stitch Guide) in each st across, turn, drop 2nd strand of MC. Row 3 (corresponds to Circle chart Row 3): Ch 1, working over A, with MC, sc in first 2 sts, [with MC, sc in next 3 sts, changing to A in last st (see Notes), working over MC, with A, sc in next 4 sts, changing to MC in last st, working over A, with MC, sc in next 4 sts] 5 times, with MC, sc in last st, turn. Row 4 (corresponds to Circle chart Row 4): Ch 1, with MC, scr in first st, work 11-st patt rep of Row 4 of chart 5 times across, with MC, scr in last 2 sts, turn. Cont in patt as est through chart Row 12, then rep chart Rows 1–12 thirteen times

Stitch Key = with MC, single crochet (sc) = with MC, single crochet in reverse (scr) = with CC, single crochet (sc) = with CC, single crochet in reverse (scr) = patt repeat

Circle Chart 12> <11 10> <9 8> <7 6> <5 4> <3 2> <1

11-st patt rep


Rnd 7: With E, ch 1, [sc in next 5 sts, inc in next st] around, sl st in first sc to join—42 sc. Rnd 8: Ch 1, [sc in next 6 sts, inc in next st] around, with D, sl st in first sc to join—48 sc. Rnd 9: With D, ch 1, [sc in next 7 sts, inc in next st] around, sl st in first sc to join—54 sc. Rnd 10: Ch 1, [sc in next 8 sts, inc in next st] around, with E, sl st in first sc to join—60 sc. Rnd 11: With E, ch 1, [sc in next 9 sts, inc in next st] around, sl st in first sc to join—66 sc. Rnd 12: Ch 1, [sc in next 10 sts, inc in next st] around, with C, sl st in first sc to join—72 sc. Rnd 13: With C, ch 1, [sc in next 11 sts, inc in next st] around, sl st in first sc to join—78 sc. Rnd 14: Ch 1, [sc in next 12 sts, inc in next st] around, with E, sl st in first sc to join—84 sc. Rnd 15: With E, ch 1, [sc in next 13 sts, inc in next st] around, sl st in first sc to join—90 sc. Rnd 16: Ch 1, [sc in next 14 sts, inc in next st] around, with F, sl st in first sc to join—96 sc. Rnd 17: With F, ch 1, [sc in next 15 sts, inc in next st] around, sl st in first sc to join—102 sc. Rnd 18: Ch 1, [sc in next 16 sts, inc in next st] around, with E, sl st in first sc to join—108 sc. Rnd 19: With E, ch 1, [sc in next 17 sts, inc in next st] around, sl st in first sc to join—114 sc. Rnd 20: Ch 1, [sc in next 18 sts, inc in next st] around, with B, sl st in first sc to join—120 sc. Rnd 21: With B, ch 1, [sc in next 19 sts, inc in next st] around, sl st in first sc to join—126 sc. Rnd 22: Ch 1, [sc in next 20 sts, inc in next st] around, with E, sl st in first sc to join—132 sc.

Rnd 23: With E, ch 1, [sc in next 21 sts, inc in next st] around, sl st in first sc to join—138 sc. Rnd 24: Ch 1, [sc in next 22 sts, inc in next st] around, with A, sl st in first sc to join—144 sc. Rnd 25: With A, ch 1, [sc in next 23 sts, inc in next st] around, sl st in first sc to join—150 sc. Rnd 26: Ch 1, [sc in next 24 sts, inc in next st] around, with E, sl st in first sc to join—156 sc. Rnd 27: With E, ch 1, [sc in next 25 sts, inc in next st] around, sl st in first sc to join—162 sc. Rnd 28: Ch 1, [sc in next 26 sts, inc in next st] around, sl st in first sc to join—168 sts. Fasten off.

STRAP

Note: Do not break MC, instead carry it up along side of work for next use. With MC, ch 171. Row 1: (RS) Working in back bump of beg ch, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, do not turn—170 sts. Row 2: (RS) Join A, ch 1, sc blo in each st across, turn, break A. Row 3: (WS) With MC, ch 1, scr flo in each st across, do not turn. Row 4: (WS) Join B, ch 1, scr flo in each st across, turn, break B. Row 5: (RS) With MC, ch 1, sc blo in each st across, do not turn. Row 6: (RS): With F, rep Row 2. Row 7: Rep Row 3. Row 8: With C, rep Row 4. Row 9: Rep Row 5.

Row 10: With D, rep Row 2. Row 11: Rep Row 3. Fasten off.

FINISHING Using mattress st (see Glossary), seam first and last row of body to form a tube.

Bag rim: Work rim around top tube edge opposite of where all tail ends are. Rnd 1: With RS of body facing, join MC in first sc row-end after seam, sc in each row-end around, with E, sl st in first sc to join—168 sc. Rnd 2: With E, ch 1, sc blo around, sl st in first sc to join. Rnd 3 (dec rnd): Ch 1, [sc blo in next 19 sts, sc2tog (see Glossary) blo] around, sl st in first sc to join—160 sc rem. Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc around, sl st in first sc to join. Rnd 5: Rep Rnd 2. Rnd 6 (eyelet rnd): Ch 1, sc in first 6 sts, ch 2, sk next 2 sts, sc in next 6 sts, ch 2, sk next 2 sts, [sc in next 8 sts, ch 2, sk next 2 sts] 12 times, sc in next 8 sts, [ch 2, sk next 2 sts, sc in next 6 sts] 2 times, sl st in first sc to join—16 ch-2 sps. Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc blo in each st and ch around, sl st in first sc to join—160 sc. Rnd 8 (dec rnd): Ch 1, [sc in next 14 sts, sc2tog] around, sl st in first sc to join—150 sc rem. Rnd 9: Rep Rnd 2. Rnd 10: Ch 1, sc around, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off. Weave in all ends.

Assembly: Rnd 1: With RS of body facing, bottom edge of tube at top, join MC in first sc row-end after seam, sc in each row-end around, sl st in first st to join, do not break yarn—168 sts. Center strap on tube seam and mark first st left and right of strap on tube edge, remove strap. Rnd 2 (joining rnd): Sl st to marked st (first half of strap slit), hold bottom behind body with WS tog and working through both pieces, sl st seam bag bottom to bag tube, work a sl st in each st around to

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next marked st, sl st along tube edge only to end (2nd half of strap slit). Fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew strap to bag. Insert 2-3" of strap end in slit so that RS is facing when strap is folded up to top of bag. Use yarn tails to sew strap end to WS of bag. Fold strap up and over bag top, overlapping by 2-3", center WS of strap on tube seam, pin strap to inside of bag top. Try out strap length, adjust if needed. Sew and secure strap to WS of bag. Tie: With E, fsc (see Glossary) 200, rotate piece to work back along opposite edge, ch 1, sc in first st, ch 1, sc in each st across. Fasten off. Weave in ends. Weave tie through bag rim holes so that ends come out at center front of bag.

Notes Rectangle motifs are worked first, then joined tog with bobble strips. All Rectangle Motif centers are worked with color A. No seaming required. Larger hook is only used for tassels. To change color in motif: Sl st to join with current color, then yo with new color and pull up lp, pull current color strand hard to minimize size of st. To change color in bobble strip: Work to last yo to complete last st, yo with new color and complete st.

next 2 sts, (dc, ch 1, tr) in next ch-1 corner sp, htr in next 2 sts, dc in next 8 sts, *dc in next 8 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, (dc, ch 1, tr) in next ch-1 corner sp, htr in next 2 sts, dc in next 8 sts; rep from * 2 times, sl st in first sc to join—88 sts, 4 ch-1 corner sps. Rnd 8: Ch 1, sc blo in first and next 10 sts, *sc blo in ch of next ch-1 sp, ch 3, dc blo in next st and each st to next ch-1 sp, ch 3, sc blo in ch of next ch-1 sp**, sc blo in next st and each st to next ch-1 sp, rep from * to **, sc blo in last 12 sts, sl st in first sc to join—24 sc each long side, 22 dc each narrow side.

Stitch Guide Single crochet join (sc-join): Insert hook in indicated st of current rectangle, yo and pull up a lp, insert hook from top down in indicated st of adjacent rectangle, yo, pull up lp and draw through 2 lps—1 lp rem on hook. Five treble bobble (bobble): (Yo 2 times, insert hook in indicated st, yo and pull up lp, [yo and draw through 2 lps on hook] 2 times) 5 times (6 lps on hook), yo and draw through all lps on hook—5-tr bobble competed. Half Treble Crochet (htr): Yo 2 times, insert hook in indicated st, yo and pull up lp (4 lps on hook), yo and draw through 2 lps (3 lps on hook), yo and draw through rem lps on hook.

Rectangle Motif:

CYBORG SCARF Daniela Nii

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4 Lion Brand Wool-Ease

Getting Started Finished Size About 61⁄2" wide and 78" long, excluding tassels.

Yarn Lion Brand Wool-Ease (80% acrylic, 20% wool; 197 yd [180 m]/3 oz [85 g]; ): #620-107 blue heather (A), #620-151 grey heather (B), #620-152 oxford grey (C), #620-159 mustard (D), #620-199 pumpkin (E), #620-102 ranch red (F), #620153 black (G), 1 skein each. Lion Brand Wool-Ease (70% acrylic, 20% wool, 10% nylon; 162 yd [146 m]/21/2 oz [70 g]; ); #620-501 white frost (H), 1 skein. Hook Sizes H/8 (5 mm) and J/10 (6 mm) (only used for tassels). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions St marker (m); yarn needle. Gauge Is not crucial for this project. Rectangle motif measures about 61⁄2" wide and 93⁄4" long with smaller hook.

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With A and smaller hook, ch 5, sl st in first ch to form a ring. Rnd 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), 15 dc in ring, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join, changing to Color 1 (see Notes)—16 dc. Fasten off A. Rnd 2: With Color 1, ch 4 (counts as dc, ch 1), [dc blo in next st, ch 1] around, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join—16 dc, 16 ch-1 sps. Rnd 3: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next ch-1 sp, [2 dc in next st, dc in next ch-1 sp] around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—48 dc. Rnd 4: Ch 5 (counts as dc, ch 2), sk next st, [dc blo in next st, ch 2, sk next st] around, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-5 to join—24 dc, 24 ch-2 sps. Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in same st, 2 sc in next ch-2 sp, [ sc in next st, 2 sc in next ch-2 sp] around, sl st in first sc to join, changing to Color 2—72 sc. Fasten off Color 1.

Beg rectangle shaping: Rnd 6: With Color 2, ch 1, sc in first and next 3 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 2 sts, (htr, tr) in next st, ch 1 (for corner), (tr, htr) in next st, dc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next 4 sts, *sc in next 4 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 2 sts, (htr, tr) in next st, ch 1 (for corner), (tr, htr) in next st, dc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next 4 sts; rep from * 2 times, sl st in first sc to join—80 sts, 4 ch-1 corner sps. Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc in first and next 7 sts, hdc in

Rnd 9: Ch 1, sc in first and each st to next ch-3 sp, *sc blo in next 2 ch, ch 3, dc blo in last ch, dc in each st to next ch-3 sp, dc blo in first ch, ch 3, sc blo in last 2 ch**, sc in each st to next ch-3 sp, rep from * to **, sc in each st to end, sl st in first sc to join—32 sc each long side, 24 dc each narrow side. Rnd 10: Rep Rnd 9 but work all sc and dc in blo—40 sc each long side, 26 dc each narrow side. Rnd 11: Ch 1, sl st in first and each st to next ch-3 sp, *sl st blo in next 2 ch, ch 3, dc blo in last ch, dc in each st to next ch-3 sp, dc blo in first ch, ch 3, sl st blo in last 2 ch**, sl st in each st to next ch-3 sp, rep from * to **, sl st in each st to end, sl st in first sl st to join—48 sl sts each long side, 26 dc each narrow side. Fasten off.

Pattern SCARF Rectangle 1: Make rectangle motif (see Stitch Guide) using G for Color 1, A for Color 2. Rectangle 2: Make rectangle motif using


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B for Color 1, D for Color 2. Rectangle 3: Make rectangle motif using C for Color 1, G for Color 2. Rectangle 4: Make rectangle motif using G for Color 1, H for Color 2. Rectangle 5: Make rectangle motif using B for Color 1, E for Color 2. Rectangle 6: Make rectangle motif using C for Color 1, F for Color 2.

Bobble strip: Row 1: With RS facing, join C in top ch of right corner ch-3 of Rectangle 1, ch 3, dc2tog over next 2 sts, dc in each st across to left corner ch-3, dc in top of ch-3, turn—27 dc. Row 2 (bobbles): (WS) Ch 3, dc in next 2 sts, [bobble (see Stitch Guide) in next st, dc in next 3 sts] 6 times, turn. Row 3: Ch 3, dc in next and in each st across, changing to G in last st (see Notes), turn. Row 4 (bobbles): With G, ch 3, working over C laying on top of sts, dc in next 4 sts, [bobble in next st, dc in next 3 sts] 5 times, dc in last 2 sts, changing to C in last st, turn. Fasten off G. Row 5: With C, ch 3, dc in next and in each st across, turn. Row 6 (bobbles): Rep Row 2. Row 7: Ch 1, sc across, turn.

FINISHING Tassel: Cut a 10" long strand of each color and bundle them. With RS facing, insert larger hook in right corner, fold strand bundle in half and place center over hook, pull bundle up through fabric to form a lp, remove hook, reach through lp to pull the two bundle ends through lp, gently pull on tails to tighten tassel. Place 4 more tassels evenly spaced across scarf end, placing next tassel in opposite corner, then in the center, then one tassel between each corner and center tassel. Trim tassels to same length. Weave in ends.

With WS facing, match up narrow edge of Rectangle 2 with bobble strip edge. Row 8 (joining row): (WS) Ch 1, sc-join (see Stitch Guide) first st of current rectangle with st in ch-3 sp of adjacent rectangle, [sc-join next st] across to end of current rectangle (1 st rem on adjacent rectangle), sc-join last st of current rectangle with last st of adjacent rectangle (insert hook in ch-3 sp), fasten off. Rep Rows 1–8 to join rem Rectangles 3, 4, 5, and 6.

OODLES SCARF

Scarf ends:

Yarn Lorna’s Laces Shepherd Sock (80%

Work Rows 1–7 of bobble strip at each scarf end (Rectangle 1 and Rectangle 6), then work Row 7 once more, fasten off.

superwash wool, 20% nylon; 435 yd [100 g]; ): #12 lilac, 1 skein. Hook Sizes G/6 (4 mm) and F/5 (3.75 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions St marker (m); yarn needle. Gauge 20 sts and 16 rows = 4" in patt on larger hook (blocked).

Sue Perez

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4 Lorna’s Laces Shepherd Sock

Getting Started Finished Size 41⁄2" wide and 60" long, blocked (excluding tendrils).

Notes Tendrils are formed by chaining at end of each RS row, then turning and working in flo of ch in opposite direction; be careful to correctly identify front lps of ch sts. Dc lace rows beg with a blo sl st which can sink into work; place marker if necessary to help identify it for return row. Final sl st of dc lace row is made through both strands. When working “wormhole” keep tension very firm; hole should be very small to 2015

Stitch Guide Main body st patt (odd number of sts + any number for tendril): With larger hook, loosely ch 25, place marker (pm), ch 12 for tendril, turn. Row 1: 2 dc flo in 3rd ch from hook, sc flo in next 9 ch to m (tendril formed), sc in bottom ridge lp of each ch to end, turn. Row 2: Ch 1, sl st blo in first st (mark this st if desired), sc blo in next st, dc blo in next st, [ch 1, sk next st, dc blo in next st] 10 times, sc blo in next st, sl st in next st, ch 15 for tendril, turn. Row 3: 2 dc flo in 3rd ch from hook, sc flo to end, turn. Row 4: Rep Row 2, ch 18 for tendril. Row 5: Rep Row 3. Rep Rows 2–3 for patt, changing tendril length as desired.

Join rectangles:

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keep tendrils from slipping out. St patt acts like ribbing and can retract slightly during blocking; since this yarn contains nylon, wet-block scarf to slightly larger dimensions than desired finished size. To refresh or enhance tendril curl, wrap tendrils one at a time, with WS (nubby side) facing outwards, around crochet hook or drinking straw; spritz or steam very lightly on uppermost side, pull out hook or straw, and let dry.

Pattern With larger hook, loosely ch 303, pm, ch 38 for tendril, turn. Row 1: (WS) 2 dc flo in 3rd ch from hook, sc flo in next 35 ch to m (tendril formed), sc in bottom ridge lp of each ch to end, turn. Row 2: (RS) Ch 1, sl st blo in first st (mark this st if desired), sc blo in next st, dc blo in next st, [ch 1, sk next st, dc blo in next st] 149 times, sc blo in next st, sl st blo in next st, ch 48 for tendril, turn. Row 3: 2 dc flo in 3rd ch from hook, sc flo to end, turn. Row 4: Rep Row 2, ch 58 for tendril. Row 5: Rep Row 3. Row 6: Rep Row 2, ch 38 for tendril. Row 7: Rep Row 3. Rows 8–19: Rep Rows 2–7 two times. Do not turn at end of Row 19.


Make wormhole:

Stitch Guide

With smaller hook, ch 1, rotate work 90 degrees counterclockwise; inserting hook in sc row–ends and working across narrow end of scarf, sc2tog (see Glossary) 5 times, turn; ch 5, sl st in ch-1 at beg of wormhole to join, turn; [sc in next sc2tog, ch 3] 5 times (being careful not to catch hook in ch-5) turn; working now across ch-5, [sc in ch-sp, ch 3] 5 times; sl st in beg sc to join. Fasten off.

Double Crochet Cluster (cl): [Yo, insert hook in st indicated, yo and pull up lp, yo and draw through 2 lps on hook] 2 times (3 lps on hook), yo and draw through all lps on hook. Invisible Fasten Off: Cut yarn leaving a 3" tail, draw tail through lp on hook, insert hook in both lps of next st, yo and draw through all lps on hook, insert hook in flo of last st, yo, draw through all lps on hook.

FINISHING Weave in ends. Block scarf body only; tendrils may be left unblocked or lightly shaped (see Notes). To wear, gently thread tendrils through wormhole a few at a time until all are threaded; arrange as desired.

[ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in next dc] across, turn—10 ch-sps. Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), 2 dc in next ch-sp, dc in next dc, ch 5, sk next ch-sp, next dc and next ch-sp, dc in next dc, [2 dc in next ch-sp, dc in next dc] 4 times, ch 5, sk next ch-sp, next dc and next ch-sp, dc in next dc, 2 dc in last ch-sp, dc in last dc, turn—21 dc and 2 ch-sps. Row 4: Ch 5, sk next 2 dc, dc in next dc, ch 2, sk next 2 ch, dc in next ch, sk next 2 ch, dc in next dc, [ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in next dc] 4 times, ch 2, sk next 2 ch, dc in next ch, sk next 2 ch, dc in next dc, ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in last dc, turn—10 ch-sps. Rows 5–16: Rep Rows 3– 4 six times. Row 17: Ch 3, [2 dc in next ch-sp, dc in next dc] across. Fasten off.

Pattern BACK PANEL

NETWORK PURSE Shelby Allaho

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4 Schachenmayr Catania

Getting Started Finished Size 12" wide and 73⁄4" tall, excluding handles. Yarn Schachenmayr Catania (distributed by Westminster Fibers) (100% cotton; 137 yd [125 m]/13/4 oz [50 g]; ): #0249 gold (MC), 3 skeins; #0248 linen (CC), 2 skeins. Hook Sizes D/3 (3.25 mm) and F/5 (3.75 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions Yarn needle; rust-proof pins; sewing needle; invisible nylon thread; 13⁄4" flat button with shank. Gauge 161⁄2 sts and 11 rows = 4" in main patt with smaller hook.

Notes Bag is worked in panels that are seamed tog. Strap is worked separately and attached.

Using smaller hook and MC, ch 57. Row 1: (RS) Cl (see Stitch Guide) in bottom ridge lp of 4th ch from hook, and in each ch across, turn—54 cl. Row 2: Ch 3 (does not count as st), sk first st, cl in each cl to last 2 cl, sk next cl, cl in last cl, turn—52 cl. Rows 3–4: Ch 3, cl in each cl across, turn. Row 5: Ch 3, sk first st, cl in each cl to last 2 cl, sk next cl, cl in last cl, turn—50 cl. Rows 6–28: Rep Rows 3–5 seven times, then Rows 3–4 once more—36 cl. Row 29: Ch 1, sc in each cl across, turn. Row 30: Ch 1, sc in each cl one row below (over prev worked sc) across, turn. Row 31: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn. Row 32: Rep Row 30. Fasten off.

FRONT PANEL Using smaller hook and CC, ch 57. Work as for back panel through Row 18—42 cl. Row 19: Ch 1, sc in each cl across, turn. Row 20: Ch 1, sc in each cl one row below (over prev worked sc) across, turn. Row 21: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn. Row 22: Rep Row 20. Fasten off.

FRONT FILET PANEL Using smaller hook and MC, ch 33. Row 1: (RS) Dc in bottom ridge lp of 4th ch from hook (skipped ch count as first dc), and in each ch across, turn—31 dc. Row 2: Ch 5 (counts as first dc and ch-2 sp throughout), sk next 2 dc, dc in next dc,

STRAPS (MAKE 2) Using smaller hook and MC, ch 180. Row 1: (RS) Sc in bottom ridge lp of 2nd ch from hook, and in each ch across, turn—179 sc. Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each ch one row below (over prev worked sc) across, turn. Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn. Rows 4–5: Rep Rows 2–3, then rep Row 2 once more, do not turn.

Edging: Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 1, sc one row below (over last sc worked), rotate to work across row-ends, work 4 sc across row-ends, rotate to work along foundation ch, sl st in each ch across, rotate to work across row-ends, work 4 sc across row-ends, sl st in blo of first sc to join, invisible fasten off (see Stitch Guide).

Detailing: With larger hook, CC, and WS facing, insert hook in first st bet Rows 1 and 2, yo and pull up lp, draw through lp on hook, keeping yarn under work, *insert hook in next st bet rows 1 and 2, yo and pull up lp, draw through lp on hook; rep from * across. Fasten off. Rep for Rows 2 and 3. Fasten off.

FINISHING Pin all pieces to a blocking board and wet or steam block. Crochetscene

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Front filet panel and front panel joining: With smaller hook, join MC in top righthand corner of front panel bet last 2 rows, yo and pull up long lp, yo and draw through lp on hook, sc in next 5 sts one row below, sc over last row of front panel, sc in each st across top edge of front filet panel and front panel, through both thicknesses, sc in last 6 sts, sc over last row of front panel. Fasten off. With smaller hook, join MC in bottom left-hand corner, yo and pull up lp, yo and draw through lp on hook, sc in first 11 sts, holding front filet panel and front panel tog, sc across panels through both thicknesses, sc in last 12 sts. Fasten off. Thread sewing needle with a length of invisible nylon thread. Sew sides of front filet panel to front panel of purse.

Assembly: With RS tog, pin front and back panels tog. With WS facing and smaller hook, join MC through both thicknesses in top edge of panels, yo and pull up lp, yo and draw through lp on hook. Cont to join panels by making 2 sc in each row-end around to bottom corner, sc in flo of front panel and blo of back panel across to opposite corner, 2 sc in each row-end around. Fasten off.

Back panel flap edging: With RS of back panel facing, using larger hook and 3 strands of MC held tog, join MC in row-end just above front and back panel joining, yo and pull up lp, keeping yarn

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under the work, insert hook in same rowend, yo and pull up lp, draw through lp on hook, *insert hook in next row-end, yo and pull up lp, insert hook in same row-end, yo and pull up lp, draw through lp on hook; rep from * across to last row-end, rotate to work across next edge, sl st in each st across to next row-end, rotate to work across next edge; rep from * across to last row-end. Fasten off.

Button loop: With WS of back panel facing, using smaller hook and MC, insert hook in eighteenth st from edge, yo and pull up lp, ch 17, sl st in same st, turn. Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 1, 23 sc in lp, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off.

Strap attachment: Using photo as a guide, pin WS of strap to RS of front panel along front filet panel edge (edge of strap should just cover the last st of panel). Thread sewing needle with a length of invisible nylon thread. Sew bottom 4" of strap to front panel on each side. Pin WS of strap to RS of back panel, matching the strap location on front panel. Thread sewing needle with a length of invisible nylon thread. Sew strap to back panel on each side.

Button cover: With smaller hook and CC, make an adjustable ring (see Glossary). Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 2 (counts as hdc throughout), 9 hdc in ring, sl st in first hdc to joinâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;10 hdc. Rnd 2: Ch 2, hdc in same sp as join, 2 hdc

in each hdc around, sl st in first hdc to joinâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;20 hdc. Fasten off. Join MC with sl st in join. Rnd 3: Ch 2, hdc in same sp as join and in each hdc around, sl st in first hdc to join. Rnd 4: Ch 3, dc in same sp as join and in each hdc around, sl st in first dc to join. Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in same sp as join and in each dc around, sl st in first sc to join. Insert button into WS of cover. Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc in same sp as join and in each sc around, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off leaving a long end for sewing. Thread yarn needle with long end. Using photo as a guide, come up through center of the button cover, then go back down through a Rnd 1 st. Cont working in this manner in each st from Rnd 1. Sew button to center front of purse, in the eighth row of front filet panel. Weave in ends.


resource guide

NaturalFibers Spun in Vermont

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Feature | Yarn Play

Yarn P lay Marcy Smith

{ Projects by Marcy Smith, Vickie Howell, and Lily Chin }

Pom-Pom Wreath Yarn is terrific for all sorts of crafty activities. We love crochet, of course, but sometimes we like the immediate gratification of speedier sorts of yarn play. To explore these options, I teamed up with two of my favorite yarny peeps, Vickie Howell and Lily Chin, and we whipped up some fiber fun. We tapped in to some of todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hottest fiber trends: weaving, macramĂŠ, and pom-poms, among others.

Pom-Pom Garland

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Fun Flowers

Wall Hanging Turn the page for more inspiring yarn play projects!

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Feature | Yarn Play

Lily Chin snapped up Clover’s weaving sticks and took them to the next level, pairing them with a crochet hook to craft a fabulous on-the-go bag. Vickie Howell, who writes the Loose Ends column in our subscription issue, dove into a pom-pompalooza. Her exuberant pompom wreath will give instant cheer to a door or wall, and her garland will brighten any space. She used a Clover pom-pom tool that makes it a snap to whip up pompoms in a range of yarns. My super-speedy wall hanging will give high-impact color to any blank space in no time. Use your favorite yarns and colors to create an immediate focal point. I tapped in to macramé for this wall hanging as well as for the easy-peasy chunky necklace. Macramé conjures images of the 1970s, but this craft actually began in the thirteenth century. We found some macramé guidance in Weldon’s Practical Needlework and turned illustrations from the nineteenth century into designs for the twenty-first century. (For more information on the Weldon’s collection, see page 115.) The pegboard stitchings were inspired by signs in the windows of Fancy Tiger Crafts in downtown Denver. I knew I had to get some of those into my life—and yours! You could use this technique to stitch anything, from your house numbers to your favorite inspirational words. I stitched up a message for your studio and a couple of variations of the always-on-trend chevron. We hope our yarn play sparks your creativity. Enjoy!

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WALL HANGING Marcy Smith Need to give a blank wall a pick-me-up in a hurry? Look no further than this bright wall hanging. We used a dowel, but a branch would work wonderfully, particularly if paired with rustic yarns. Trim the yarns to whatever shape appeals to you.

Getting Started Finished Size 161⁄2" wide and 24" long. Yarn Bernat Sheep(ish) by Vickie Howell (70% acrylic, 30% wool; 167 yd [158 m]/3 oz [85 g]; ): #17 chartreuse (A), #11 coral (B), #05 plum(ish) (C), 1 ball each. Notions 18" long and 1⁄2" diameter dowel or stick; drill; 1⁄4" drill bit; yarn needle.

Pattern Drill a hole 3⁄8" (1 cm) from each end of dowel. Cut yarn as foll: Cut twenty 1-yd lengths of each color. Set aside. Cut one 18" length of each color. Thread three 18" strands held together through yarn needle. Thread through hole at one end and pull through about 3" of yarn. Tie an overhand knot, adding another if necessary to keep yarn from slipping through hole. Rep for other side. Note: For ease, work with dowel hanging from door or wall hook; I hung it from an existing picture hanger on the wall. Attach yarn to dowel: Starting at center, fold yarn strand in half, place loop over dowel from front to back, and pull yarn ends through loop (reverse Lark’s Head complete; loop will be at back of dowel). Rep with rem strands in this order: 10 A at center, 20 B at each side of A, 20 C at each side of B, 5 A at outer sides. Straighten knots at top; comb your fingers through the yarn to straighten. Decide how you want to trim ends. To cut as shown: Measure 20" down outer strand; measure 24" down center strand. Lay flat on table and cut at an angle from outer 20" to inner 24".


MACRAMÉ NECKLACE Marcy Smith

FUN FLOWERS

Getting Started

Marcy Smith

Finished Size 60" long. Yarn Bernat Roving (80% acrylic, 20% wool; 120 yd [109 m]/

Finished Size Small flower, 1" diameter; large flower,

3½ oz [100 g];

3" diameter. Yarn Bernat Handicrafter Crochet Thread (100% acrylic; 371 yd [339 m]/3 oz [85 g]; ): #31222 ripe avocado, #31305 vivid violet, 1 ball each; Bernat Handicrafter Cotton (100% US grown cotton; 80 yd [73 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]; ): #13530 country red, #13130 warm brown, 1 ball each; Bernat Roving (80% acrylic, 20% wool; 120 yd [109 m]/3½ oz [100 g]; ): #714 coral, 1 ball. Notions Clover Mini Flower Loom; Clover Hana-Ami Flower Loom.

Pattern

Pattern Foll the instructions that come with the loom to make flowers. The Hana-Ami loom has a variety of sizes, both round and square. The small flowers were made with the Mini Flower Loom. You can use the yarns as shown in the photos or devise your own color schemes. It is fun to pair thick and thin yarns. You might experiment with wire or yarn that incorporates wire.

Want more \DUQæRZHUV" Crochet Flowers Make Motifs for Jewelry, Gifts, ents & Embellishm with la Robyn Chachu

): #714 coral (A), #032 putty (B), 1 ball each.

Note: This design makes an exuberantly long necklace, designed to be worn doubled. Adjust the length as you desire. Cut a 1-yd length of either color. Tie two ends together in an overhand knot. Loop over doorknob, door edge, or picture hanger on the wall. Cut 10-yd lengths of each color. Fold in half and join at fold of short loop. Arrange strands so that two A strands are at left and two B strands are at right. Foll illustration for Double Knotted Bar, work first A loop, then B loop. Continue until you have about a yard of looped strands. Hold all end strands together and tie an overhand knot. Tighten, then trim ends. TO WEAR: Loop strand twice for a regular length; loop three times for a choker length. Or tie a loose overhand knot about 12" from center, using both sides of loop.

Double Knotted Bar

From Weldon’s Practical Macramé Lace

Getting Started

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Feature | Yarn Play

PEGBOARD ART

POM-POM WREATH

Marcy Smith

Vickie Howell

Getting Started

Getting Started

Finished Size 163⁄4" wide and 81⁄2" long. 83⁄4" square for small

Finished Size About 20” diameter. Yarn Patons Classic Wool Roving (100% wool; 120 yd [109 m]

size.

Yarn Phentex Bernat Sheep(ish) by Vickie Howell (70% acrylic, 30% wool; 167 yd [158 m]/3 oz [85 g]; ): #17 chartreuse(ish) (A), 1 ball; Bernat Roving (80% acrylic, 20% wool; 120 yd [109 m]/3½ oz [100 g]; ): #714 coral (B), 1 ball; Worsted Solids (100% acrylic; 867 yd [792 m]/14 oz [400 g]; ): #2322 dark mauve (C), 1 ball; Phentex Worsted Ombres (100% acrylic; 582 yd [532 m]/101⁄2 oz [300 g]; ): # 44046 intrigue ombre (D), 1 ball. Notions Pegboards; jigsaw or circular saw (or ask someone at hardware store to cut to size); yarn needle.

/3½ oz [100 g]; ): #77008 aran (A), 1 ball; Bernat Roving (80% acrylic, 20% wool; 120 yd [109 m]/31/2 oz [100 g]; ): #11 bark (B), 1 ball; Bernat Dimensions (70% acrylic, 30% wool; 160 yd [146 m]/2¾ oz [80 g]; ): #7 coral taupe (C), 1 ball. Notions 1 Clover Pom-pom Maker Large (2-pack) in sizes 21⁄2" (65 mm) and 33⁄8" (85 mm); scissors; 16" (40.5 cm) diameter wreath form; hot glue and gun; optional: bottle brush trees.

Pattern

Pattern

Cut boards to size: Square boards have 8 holes × 8 holes; rectangle has 8 holes × 16 holes. For all boards: Thread needle with yarn as designated in chart (or with your yarn of choice), and pull through so both ends meet. Working with yarn doubled, and working over tail, stitch design foll charts. Weave in ends.

Make pom-poms:

Pegboard 1 2 7

Directions for all sizes: Wind yarn around arches of maker.

Pegboard 2 4

4 1 3 6 8

Approx. number of pom-poms to make (may vary, based on placement): 9 each of both larger and smaller pom-poms in A and B, and 11 smaller pom-poms in C.

1

5

Pegboard 3

2 1

1

3

5 6

3

1

4

2

1

1

2

8 x 8 holes

8 x 8 holes

Stitch Key = with A

= with C

= with B

= with D

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= yarn runs behind pegboard

8 x 16 holes


Cut wrapped yarn. Tie additional piece of yarn around cut yarn still in maker. Open one arch at a time and remove from pom-pom maker. Trim to shape.

FINISHING Assemble Wreath: Using hot glue and gun, attach pom-poms to wreath form relatively close together to create a full look. Attach optional bottle brush trees (or your own embellishment!).

Want more Craftiness?

POM-POM GARLAND Vickie Howell

Getting Started Finished Size About 76". Yarn Patons Classic Wool Bulky (100% wool; 78 yd [71 m]/ 3½ oz [100 g]; ): #8908 aran (A), 1 ball; Patons Classic Wool Roving (100% wool; 120 yd [109 m]/3½ oz [100 g]; ): #77615 yellow (B), 1 ball; Bernat Sheep(ish) by Vickie Howell (70% acrylic, 30% wool; 167 yd [158 m]/3 oz [85 g]; ): raspberry(ish) (C), 1 ball; Patons Classic Wool Worsted (100% wool; 210 yd [192 m]/3½ oz [100 g]; ): #77525 moss heather (D), 1 ball. Hook Size N/P-15 (10 mm). Notions 1 each, Clover Pom-pom Maker Large (2-pack) in sizes 21⁄2" (65 mm) (medium) and 33⁄8" (85 mm) (large) and Extra Large in size 41⁄2" (115 mm); scissors; yarn needle; 2 large wooden beads.

Pattern Make Garland Base: Leaving 12" (30.5 cm) tail, using A double-stranded, crochet a 72" (183 cm) long chain. Fasten off, leaving 12" (30.5 cm) tail. Tie end into knotted loop; slide bead over knot. Rep for opposite side.

Make Pom-poms: With B, make 3 extra large pom-poms. With C, make 3 medium pom-poms. With D, make 2 large pom-poms.

Directions for all sizes: Wind yarn around arches of maker. Cut wrapped yarn. Tie additional piece of yarn around cut yarn still in maker. Open one arch at a time and remove from pom-pom maker. Trim to shape, leaving tail for sewing.

FINISHING Using yarn and yarn needle sew pom-poms to garland base, about 51⁄2" (14 cm) from each other. Bury ends in pom-poms.

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Feature | Yarn Play

Notes Bag body is made up of 5 strips sewn together plus one strip for strap that wraps around the sides and across bottom. Loosely follow instructions that come with sticks for basics. “Core” yarn is left exposed as fringe. When moving sticks up, one at a time is easiest.

Pattern STRAP Cut six strands of D, at least 90" long each. Thread 1 strand through hole of each stick for core yarn. With B, make slip knot and place on smaller hook. Row 1: With yarn behind the 6 sticks held tog in left hand, working from right to left and always inserting hook from front to back between indicated sticks, sl st across sticks as foll: insert hook between first and 2nd stick, yo and pull through lp on hook to form ch in front, insert hook between 2nd and 3rd stick, yo and pull through lp on hook to form ch in front, insert hook between 3rd and 4th stick, yo and pull through lp on hook to form ch in front, insert hook between 4th and 5th stick, yo and pull through lp on hook to form ch in front, insert hook between 5th and 6th sticks, yo and pull through lp on hook to form ch in front, form last ch by yo to the left of last stick, ch 1, turn. Rep Row 1, moving sticks up when full, until 308 rows have been completed. Do not fasten off B.

Side trims: Switch to larger hook. Rotate piece to work along side edge, *sc in tch, ch 1; rep from * to end, fasten off. Join B to other side edge and rep.

STRIP (MAKE 5) Cut six at least 40" long strands. Thread 1 strand through hole of each stick for core yarn. Using A, rep Row 1 of strap until 204 rows have been completed.

Side trims: Rotate piece and working along side edge, sc in each tch, fasten off. Join A to other side edge and rep. Make 2 more strips using A, and 2 strips using C.

FINISHING

WEAVING STICKS BAG Lily Chin

Getting Started Finished Size 121⁄2" wide, 10" high, and 21⁄2" deep; straps: about

Sew strips in this order: A, C, A, C, A. Fold strips in half length-wise. Using picture as a guide, arrange strap around sewn strips so that about 18" of each strap end is free for handle and strap crosses over strips, covering 21⁄2" width for bottom of bag. Sew each side edge of strap to side edge strip at one end of bag, sew strap across bottom 21⁄2" of bag, sew each side edge of strap to side edge strip at other end of bag. Trim all ends at top of bag to desired length. Tie core yarns of straps tog.

681⁄2" long and 21⁄2" wide.

Yarn Caron Simply Soft (distributed by Spinrite) (100% acrylic; 208 yd [190 m]/4 oz [113 g]; ): #9801 baby brights ombre (A), 2 skeins. Caron Simply Soft (distributed by Spinrite) (100% acrylic; 315 yd [288 m]/6 oz [170 g]; ): #9756 lavender blue (B), #9754 persimmon (C), 1 skein each. Bernat Softee Chunky (distributed by Spinrite) (100% acrylic; 108 yd [99 m]/3½ oz [100 g]; ): #28323 dark mauve (D), 1 skein. Hook Sizes H/8 (5mm) and G/6 (4mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions Set of 6 (Fine) Weaving Sticks from Clover, article #8440 (includes yarn needle). Gauge 18 sts in sc = 4" with smaller hook. 18 sts in sc-ch1 = 4" with larger hook. 44 Crochetscene

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MARCY SMITH is editor of Interweave Crochet and Crochetscene. VICKIE HOWELL is Creativity Spokesperson for www.Yarnspirations.com; you can learn more about Vickie at www.vickiehowell.com. LILY CHIN is the newest inductee to the Crochet Guild of America’s Crochet Hall of Fame (see page 10).


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Retro looks with a modern vibe.

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Bubbles Sweater by Jill Wright. This classic two-color, slightly dolman sleeve sweater is worked sideways from cuff to cuff. The two-row stitch pattern and color change are easily memorized, resulting in a versatile pullover that looks great with shorts, skirts, or jeans. Yarn: Rowan Cotton GlacĂŠ (distributed by Westminster Fibers). Page 69.

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Tribbles Vests by Doris Chan. The trouble with these tribbles is deciding which retro vest to make! Vintage-inspired, with a contemporary attitude toward fabric, fit, and drape, these adorable no-sew vests are exceptionally fun to wear and jolly good canvases for playing with color. The body squares are interchangeable and have shared assembly instructions, so you can mix and match. Yarn: Valley Yarns Goshen (distributed by WEBS). Page 58.

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KIT Tribbles Vests sh

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Originator Tote by Nicoletta Tronci. This bag is a blast to makeâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and when itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s finished, it will hold your electronic reader, notebook, crochet-in-progress, and more! Inspired by bohemian colors and fabrics, the bag features a medley of traditional stitches, tapestry crochet, and surface chain embroideries, embellished with a glitter thread. Yarn: Garnstudio DROPS Alaska and DROPS Glitter. Page 64.

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Swish-Swish Skirt by Jill Hanratty. Lace insets give the skirt flare; the skirt gives you flair! Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll wonder how your wardrobe ever got along without it. Yarn: HiKoo CoBaSi (distributed by Skacel). Page 54.

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Fresh Takes

180, 192), sl st in first fsc to join. Rnd 2: (RS) Ch 1, *esc (see Glossary) in next sc, ch 1, sk next sc; rep from * around, sl st in first esc to join, turn—72 (78, 84, 90, 96) esc. Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in each esc and ch-sp around, sl st in first sc to join, turn—144 (156, 168, 180, 192) sc.

Skirt:

SWISH-SWISH SKIRT Jill Hanratty

1

2

3

4 HiKoo CoBaSi

Getting Started Finished Size 283⁄4 (311⁄4, 331⁄2, 36, 381⁄2)" waist, 381⁄2 (411⁄2, 443⁄4, 48, 511⁄4)" hip, 22 (23, 23, 24, 24)" finished length (including waistband). Garment shown measures 283⁄4", modeled with 3" ease. Yarn HiKoo CoBaSi (distributed by Skacel) (55% cotton, 16% bamboo, 8% silk, 21% elastic nylon; 220 yd [201 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]; ): #011 indigo, 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) hanks. Hook Size G/6 (4 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions Yarn needle. Gauge 15 sts and 7 rows = 3" in patt.

Notes Skirt is worked from top down in joined, turned rnds.

Stitch Guide Picot: Ch 3, sl st in first ch.

Pattern Waistband: Rnd 1: Fsc (see Glossary) 144 (156, 168,

22 (23, 23, 24, 24)" 55.75 (58.5, 58.5, 61, 61) cm

283⁄4 (311⁄4, 331⁄2, 36, 381⁄2)" 73 (79.5, 85, 91.5, 98) cm

381⁄2 (411⁄2, 443⁄4, 48, 511⁄4)" 98 (105.5, 113.5, 122, 130) cm

SKIRT

115 (125, 1351⁄2, 144, 1531⁄2)" 292 (317.5, 344, 365.5, 390) cm

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Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), dc in same sc, sk next sc, dc in next sc, ch 1, sk next sc, dc in next sc, sk next sc, *3 dc in next sc, sk next sc, dc in next sc, ch 1, sk next sc, dc in next sc, sk next sc; rep from * around to first dc, dc in same sp as first dc, sl st in first dc to join, turn—120 (130, 140, 150, 160) dc. Rnd 2: Ch 3, dc in same dc, sk next dc, BPdc (see Glossary) around next dc, ch 1, sk next ch-sp, BPdc around next dc, sk next dc, *3 dc in next dc, sk next dc, BPdc around next dc, ch 1, sk next ch-sp, BPdc around next dc, sk next dc; rep from * around to first dc, dc in same sp as first dc, sl st in first dc to join, turn. Rnd 3: Ch 3, dc in same dc, sk next dc, FPdc (see Glossary) around next dc, ch 1, sk next ch-sp, FPdc around next dc, sk next dc, *3 dc in next dc, sk next dc, FPdc around next dc, ch 1, sk next ch-sp, FPdc around next dc, sk next dc; rep from * around to first dc, dc in same sp as first dc, sl st in first dc to join, turn. Rnds 4–7: Rep Rnds 2–3 two times. Rnd 8: Ch 3, dc in same dc, sk next dc, BPdc around next dc, ch 1, sk next ch-sp, BPdc around next dc, sk next dc, *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next dc, sk next dc, BPdc around next dc, ch 1, sk next ch-sp, BPdc around next dc, sk next dc; rep from * around to first dc, 2 dc in same sp as first dc, ch 1, sl st in first dc to join, turn—144 (156, 168, 180, 192) dc. Rnd 9: Ch 1, sl st in next ch-sp, ch 3, dc in same sp, sk next 2 dc, FPdc around next dc, ch 1, sk next ch-sp, FPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc, *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next ch-sp, sk next 2 dc, FPdc around next dc, ch 1, sk next ch-sp, FPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc; rep from * around to first dc,

2 dc in same sp as first dc, ch 1, sl st in first dc to join, turn. Rnd 10: Ch 1, sl st in next ch-sp, ch 3, dc in same sp, sk next 2 dc, BPdc around next dc, ch 1, sk next ch-sp, BPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc, *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next ch-sp, sk next 2 dc, BPdc around next dc, ch 1, sk next ch-sp, BPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc; rep from * around to first dc, 2 dc in same sp as first dc, ch 1, sl st in first dc to join, turn. Rnds 11–14: Rep Rnds 9–10 two times. Rnd 15: Ch 1, sl st in next ch-sp, ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, sk next 2 dc, FPdc around next dc, ch 1, sk next ch-sp, FPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc, *5 dc in next ch-sp, sk next 2 dc, FPdc around next dc, ch 1, sk next ch-sp, FPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc; rep from * around to first dc, 2 dc in same sp as first dc, sl st in first dc to join, turn—168 (182, 196, 210, 224) dc. Rnd 16: Ch 3, 2 dc in same dc, sk next 2 dc, BPdc around next dc, ch 1, sk next ch-sp, BPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc, *5 dc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, BPdc around next dc, ch 1, sk next ch-sp, BPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc; rep from * around to first dc, 2 dc in same sp as first dc, sl st in first dc to join, turn. Rnd 17: Ch 3, 2 dc in same dc, sk next 2 dc, FPdc around next dc, ch 1, sk next ch-sp, FPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc, *5 dc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, FPdc around next dc, ch 1, sk next ch-sp, FPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc; rep from * around to first dc, 2 dc in same sp as first dc, sl st in first dc to join, turn. Rnds 18–21 (23, 21, 23, 21): Rep Rnds 16–17 two (three, two, three, two) times.

Establish flare: Rnd 1: Ch 3, 2 dc in same dc, sk next 2 dc, BPdc around next dc, ch 2, sk next ch-sp, BPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc, *5 dc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, BPdc around next dc, ch 2, sk next ch-sp, BPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc; rep from * around to first dc, 2 dc in same sp as first dc, sl st in first dc to join, turn. Rnd 2: (RS) Ch 3, 2 dc in same dc, sk next 2 dc, FPdc around next dc, ch 2, sc in next


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Fresh Takes

ch-2 sp, ch 2, FPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc, *5 dc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, FPdc around next dc, ch 2, sc in next ch-sp, ch 2, FPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc; rep from * around to first dc, 2 dc in same sp as first dc, sl st in first dc to join, turn—168 (182, 196, 210, 224) dc, 24 (26, 28, 30, 32) sc. Rnd 3: Ch 3, 2 dc in same dc, sk next 2 dc, BPdc around next dc, ch 1, sc in next ch-sp, ch 3, sk next sc, sc in next ch-sp, ch 1, BPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc, *5 dc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, BPdc around next dc, ch 1, sc in next ch-sp, ch 3, sk next sc, sc in next ch-sp, ch 1, BPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc; rep from * around to first dc, 2 dc in same sp as first dc, sl st in first dc to join, turn—168 (182, 196, 210, 224) dc, 48 (52, 56, 60, 64) sc, 24 (26, 28, 30, 32) ch-3 sps. Rnd 4: Ch 3, 2 dc in same dc, sk next 2 dc, FPdc around next dc, ch 2, sk next ch-sp and next sc, sc in next ch-sp, ch 2, sk next sc and next ch-sp, FPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc, *5 dc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, FPdc around next dc, ch 2, sk next ch-sp and next sc, sc in next ch-sp, ch 2, sk next sc and next ch-sp, FPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc; rep from * around to first dc, 2 dc in same sp as first dc, sl st in first dc to join, turn. Rnds 5–7 (7, 9, 9, 11): Rep Rnds 3–4 one (one, two, two, three) times, then rep Rnd 3 once more.

Shape insets: Rnd 1: Ch 3, 2 dc in same dc, sk next 2 dc, FPdc around next dc, ch 2, sk next ch-sp and next sc, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next ch-sp, ch 2, sk next ch-sp and next sc, FPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc, *5 dc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, FPdc around next dc, ch 2, sk next ch-sp and next sc, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next ch-sp, ch 2, sk next sc and next ch-sp, FPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc; rep from * around to last dc, 2 dc in same sp as first dc, sl st in first dc to join, turn—216 (234, 252, 270, 288) dc, 72 (78, 84, 90, 96) ch-2 sps. Rnd 2: Ch 3, 2 dc in same dc, sk next 2 dc, BPdc around next dc, ch 1, sk next ch-sp and next dc, (dc, ch 1) 4 times in next chsp, sk next dc and next ch-sp, BPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc, *5 dc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, BPdc around next dc, ch 1, sk next ch-sp and next dc, (dc, ch 1) 4 times in next ch-sp, sk next dc and next ch-sp, BPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc; rep from * around to first dc, 2 dc in same sp as first dc, sl st in first dc to join, turn—264 (286, 308, 330, 352) dc. Rnd 3: Ch 3, 2 dc in same dc, sk next 2 dc, FPdc around next dc, ch 2, sk next ch-sp and next dc, sc in next ch-sp, [ch 3, sk next dc, sc in next ch-sp] 2 times, ch 2, sk next dc and next ch-sp, FPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc, *5 dc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, 56 Crochetscene

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FPdc around next dc, ch 2, sk next ch-sp and next dc, sc in next ch-sp, [ch 3, sk next dc, sc in next ch-sp] 2 times, ch 2, sk next dc and next ch-sp, FPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc; rep from * around to first dc, 2 dc in same sp as first dc, sl st in first dc to join, turn—168 (182, 196, 210, 224) dc, 72

(78, 84, 90, 96) sc, 48 (52, 56, 60, 64) ch-2 sps, 48 (52, 56, 60, 64) ch-3 sps. Rnd 4: Ch 3, 2 dc in same dc, sk next 2 dc, BPdc around next dc, sk next ch-sp and next sc, ch 3, [sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3] 2 times, sk next sc and next ch-sp, BPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc, *5 dc in next


dc, sk next 2 dc, BPdc around next dc, ch 3, sk next ch-sp and next sc, [sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3] 2 times, sk next sc and next chsp, BPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc; rep from * around to first dc, 2 dc in same sp as first dc, sl st in first dc to join, turn—168 (182, 196, 210, 224) dc, 48 (52, 56, 60, 64) sc, 72 (78, 84, 90, 96) ch-3 sps. Rnd 5: Ch 3, 2 dc in same dc, sk next 2 dc, FPdc around next dc, ch 3, sk next ch-sp and next sc, (dc, ch 3, dc) in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sk next sc and next ch-sp, FPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc, *5 dc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, FPdc around next dc, ch 3, sk next ch-sp and next sc, (dc, ch 3, dc) in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sk next sc and next ch-sp, FPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc; rep from * around to first dc, 2 dc in same sp as first dc, sl st in first dc to join, turn. Rnd 6: Ch 3, 2 dc in same dc, sk next 2 dc, BPdc around next dc, ch 1, sk next ch-sp and next dc, (dc, ch 1) 5 times in next chsp, sk next dc and next ch-sp, BPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc, *5 dc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, BPdc around next dc, ch 1, sk next ch-sp and next dc, (dc, ch 1) 5 times in next ch-sp, sk next dc and next ch-sp, BPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc; rep from * around to first dc, 2 dc in same sp as first dc, sl st in first dc to join, turn—288 (312, 336, 360, 384) dc. Rnd 7: Ch 3, 2 dc in same dc, sk next 2 dc, FPdc around next dc, ch 2, sk next ch-sp and next dc, sc in next ch-1 sp, [ch 3, sk next dc, sc in next ch-sp] 3 times, ch 2, sk next dc and next ch-sp, FPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc, *5 dc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, FPdc around next dc, ch 2, sk next ch-sp and next dc, sc in next ch-1 sp, [ch 3, sk next dc, sc in next ch-sp] 3 times, ch 2, sk next dc and next ch-sp, FPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc; rep from * around to first dc, 2 dc in same sp as first dc, sl st in first dc to join, turn—168 (182, 196, 210, 224) dc, 96 (104, 112, 120, 128) sc, 48 (52, 56, 60, 64) ch-2 sps, 72 (78, 84, 90, 96) ch-3 sps. Rnd 8: Ch 3, 2 dc in same dc, sk next 2 dc, BPdc around next dc, ch 3, sk next ch-sp and next sc, [sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sk next sc] 3 times, sk next ch-sp, BPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc, *5 dc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, BPdc around next dc, ch 3, sk next ch-sp and next sc, [sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sk next sc] 3 times, sk next ch-sp, BPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc; rep from * around to first dc, 2 dc in same sp as first dc, sl st in first dc to join, turn—168 (182, 196, 210, 224) dc, 72 (78, 84, 90, 96) sc, 96 (104, 112, 120, 128) ch-3 sps. Rnd 9: Ch 3, 2 dc in same dc, sk next 2 dc, FPdc around next dc, ch 1, sc in next ch-sp, ch 3, sk next sc and next ch-sp, (dc, ch 3, dc) in next sc, ch 3, sk next ch-sp and next sc, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, FPdc

around next dc, sk next 2 dc, *5 dc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, FPdc around next dc, ch 1, sc in next ch-sp, ch 3, sk next sc and next ch-sp, (dc, ch 3, dc) in next sc, ch 3, sk next ch-sp and next sc, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, FPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc; rep from * around to first dc, 2 dc in same sp as first dc, sl st in first dc to join, turn—216 (234, 252, 270, 288) dc, 48 (52, 56, 60, 64) sc, 72 (78, 84, 90, 96) ch-3 sps. Rnd 10: Ch 3, 2 dc in same dc, sk next 2 dc, BPdc around next dc, ch 1, sk next ch-sp, next sc and next ch-sp, (dc, ch 1) six times in next ch-sp, sk next dc, next ch-sp, next sc and next ch-sp, BPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc, *5 dc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, BPdc around next dc, ch 1, sk next ch-sp, next sc and next ch-sp, (dc, ch 1) six times in next ch-sp, sk next dc, next ch-sp, next sc and next ch-sp, BPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc; rep from * around to first dc, 2 dc in same sp as first dc, sl st in first dc to join, turn—312 (338, 364, 390, 416) dc. Rnd 11: Ch 3, 2 dc in same dc, sk next 2 dc, FPdc around next dc, ch 2, sk next chsp and next dc, sc in next ch-sp, [ch 3, sk next dc, sc in next ch-sp] 4 times, ch 2, sk next dc and next ch-sp, FPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc, *5 dc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, FPdc around next dc, ch 2, sk next ch-sp and next dc, sc in next ch-sp, [ch 3, sk next dc, sc in next ch-sp] 4 times, ch 2, sk next dc and next ch-sp, FPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc; rep from * around to first dc, 2 dc in same sp as first dc, sl st in first dc to join, turn—168 (182, 196, 210, 224) dc, 120 (130, 140, 150, 160) sc, 48 (52, 56, 60, 64) ch-2 sps, 96 (104, 112, 120, 128) ch-3 sps. Rnd 12: Ch 3, 2 dc in same dc, sk next 2 dc, BPdc around next dc, ch 3, sk next ch-sp and next sc, [sc in next ch-sp, ch 3, sk next sc] 4 times, sk next ch-sp, BPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc, *5 dc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, BPdc around next dc, ch 3, sk next ch-sp and next sc, [sc in next ch-sp, ch 3, sk next sc] 4 times, sk next chsp, BPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc; rep from * around to first dc, 2 dc in same sp as first dc, sl st in first dc to join, turn—168 (182, 196, 210, 224) dc, 96 (104, 112, 120, 128) sc, 120 (130, 140, 150, 160) ch-3 sps. Rnd 13: Ch 3, 2 dc in same dc, sk next 2 dc, FPdc around next dc, ch 1, sc in next ch-sp, ch 3, sk next sc, next ch-sp and next sc, (dc, ch 3, dc) in next ch-sp, ch 3, sk next sc, next ch-sp and next sc, sc in next ch-sp, ch 1, FPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc, *5 dc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, FPdc around next dc, ch 1, sc in next ch-sp, ch 3, sk (next sc, next ch-sp and next sc), (dc, ch 3, dc) in next ch-sp, ch 3, sk (next sc, next ch-sp ad next sc), sc in next ch-sp, ch 1, FPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc; rep

from * around to first dc, 2 dc in same sp as first dc, sl st in first dc to join, turn—216 (234, 252, 270, 288) dc, 48 (52, 56, 60, 64) sc, 72 (78, 84, 90, 96) ch-3 sps. Rnds 14–21: Rep Rnds 10–13 two times.

Edging: Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 3, 2 dc in same dc, sk next 2 dc, FPsc (see Glossary) around next dc, picot (see Stitch Guide), sk next ch-sp and next sc, 5 sc in next ch-sp, sk next dc, (3 sc, picot, 2 sc) in next ch-sp, sk next dc, 5 sc in next ch-sp, sk next sc and next ch-sp, FPsc around next dc, picot, sk next 2 dc, *(4 dc, picot, 3 dc) in next dc, sk next 2 dc, FPsc around next dc, picot, sk next ch-sp and next sc, 5 sc in next ch-sp, sk next dc, (3 sc, picot, 2 sc) in next ch-sp, sk next dc, 5 sc in next ch-sp, sk next sc and next ch-sp, FPsc around next dc, picot, sk next 2 dc; rep from * around to first dc, 2 dc in same sp as first dc, sl st in first dc to join. Fasten off.

FINISHING Drawstring: Row 1: (RS) Ch 4, (3 dc, picot, 2 dc, ch 3, sl st) in 4th ch from hook, ch until piece measures about 42 (46, 50, 54, 58)" long, do not fasten off. Secure live lp with m. Cut yarn leaving a 36" end. Weave unfinished end of drawstring through ch-sps of waistband rnd 2. Insert hook in last ch, ch 4, (3 dc, picot, 2 dc, ch 3, sl st) in 4th ch from hook. Fasten off. Weave in ends. Block.

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lemon drop (C), 1 (1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) skein(s); #11 sage (D), 1 skein. For Four-Patch vest: #14 colonial blue, 1 (1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) skein(s); #3390 persimmon, 1 (1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) skein(s); #12 lake, 1 (1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) skein(s); #07 ginger, 1 (1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) skein(s); #15 navy, 3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 5, 5) skeins. Hook Size I/9 (5.5 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions Yarn needle. Gauge 14 sts and 8 rows = 4" in main body patt (alternating 1 sc row, 1 dc blo row); 3 rep = 31⁄4" in granny st (3 dc, ch 1). To check your gauge, work body motif of your choice and use the checkpoint measurements listed at the end of each rnd.

TRIBBLES VESTS

Notes

Doris Chan

1

2

3

4 Valley Yarns Goshen

Getting Started Finished Size 28 (30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40)"

7 (71⁄2, 8, 81⁄2, 9, 91⁄2, 10)" 18 (19, 20.5, 21.5, 23, 24, 25.5) cm

BODY 4" 10 cm

71⁄2 (8, 8, 81⁄2, 81⁄2, 9, 9)" 19 (20.5, 20.5, 21.5, 21.5, 23, 23) cm

23⁄4 (23⁄4, 23⁄4, 3, 3, 31⁄4, 31⁄4)" 7 (7, 7, 7.5, 7.5, 8.5, 8.5) cm

241⁄2 (27, 281⁄2, 31, 321⁄2, 35, 361⁄2)" 62 (68.5, 72.5, 79, 82.5, 89, 92.5) cm

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28 (30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40)" 71 (76, 81.5, 86.5, 91.5, 96.5, 101.5) cm

5 (6, 6, 61⁄2, 61⁄2, 7, 7)" 12.5 (15, 15, 16.5, 16.5, 18, 18) cm

31⁄2 (31⁄2, 4, 4, 41⁄2, 41⁄2, 5)" 9 (9, 10, 10, 11.5, 11.5, 12.5) cm

bust (with stretch to fit snugly with up to 4" negative ease). Garments shown measure 30" to fit up to 34" bust, modeled with 2" and 3" negative ease. Yarn Valley Yarns Goshen (distributed by WEBS) (48% Peruvian cotton, 46% modal, 6% silk; 92 yd [84 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]; ): For Granny Square vest: #12 lake (A), 2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4) skeins; #11 sage (B), 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3) skeins; #21 lemon drop (C), 1 (1, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3) skein(s); #14 colonial blue (D), 1 skein. For Flower Motif vest: #14 colonial blue (A), 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5) skeins; #3390 persimmon (B), 1 (1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2) skein(s); #21

The body blocks for the three vest versions are designed to be interchangeable, with shared assembly instructions, so you can mix and match as desired. Use photos as a guide for color choices. Granny Square vest illustrates the parts for assembly: body block, side panels, waist band, and straps. Flower Motif vest is the best choice if you are fuller in the bust because of the extra stretch of the lace frame. Four-Patch Block is constructed of four small granny squares connected to each other as you go while crocheting the last rnd, forming one big square.

Stitch Guide Granny block: 3 dc in next ch-sp, ch 1. 3-cluster (3-cl): dc3tog (see Glossary) in same sc. 6-cluster (6-cl): Tr3tog (see Glossary) in indicated ch-sp, holding back last 4 lps on hook, sk next cl, tr3tog in next ch-sp, holding back last 3 lps on hook, yo and draw through all 7 lps. Picot: Ch 5, reach back and sl st in top of cl by inserting hook from top to bottom under front strands of all 7 lps of cl (in other words, trace the path of the last lp that closed cl), yo and sl st. Ch-1 Slip Loop Join: Ch 1, remove lp from hook, insert hook from front to back in next corresponding ch-1 sp of previous motif, replace lp on hook, draw lp through, cont with next dc on working motif. Corner Slip Loop Join: Instead of a ch-3 corner sp, ch 2, remove lp from hook, insert hook from front to back in corresponding corner sp of previous motif, replace lp on hook, draw lp through, ch 1, complete corner of working motif with 3 dc. At a corner where a join already exists, insert hook in ch of previous join, under 2 strands of ch. Slip Loop Seam (slip lp seam): Worked with RS facing. Remove lp from hook, insert hook back to front in corresponding st of adjacent piece, replace lp on hook, draw through, sc in next st of current piece.


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GRANNY SQUARE BLOCK Worked in the rnd with RS always facing. With B, ch 4, sl st in 4th ch from hook to form ring. Rnd 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), 2 dc in ring, [ch 2, 3 dc in ring] 3 times, end with ch 2, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch to join, fasten off—11⁄2" square. Rnd 2: Join C in any ch-2 sp, ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, ch 1, [(3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp for corner, ch 1] 3 times, 3 dc in same sp as beg, ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch to join, fasten off—23⁄4" square. Rnd 3: Join A in any ch-3 corner sp, ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, *ch 1, [3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] across to next ch-3 corner sp**, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in ch-3 corner sp; rep from * 2 times, rep from * to **, end with 3 dc in same sp as beg, ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch to join, fasten off —4" square. Rnd 4: Join D in any ch-3 corner sp, rep Rnd 3. Rnds 5–8 (9, 9, 10, 10, 11, 11): Rep Rnd 3 for 4 (5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7) more rnds, using colors in sequence B, C, A, D, or as desired—32 (36, 36, 40, 40, 44, 44) granny blocks; 91⁄2 (101⁄2, 101⁄2, 111⁄2, 111⁄2, 121⁄2, 121⁄2)" square.

FLOWER MOTIF BLOCK Worked in the rnd with RS facing. Note: Flower motif has a frame that ends with a rnd of granny blocks to match other block versions for assembly. If you plan to cont with assembly in same color, do not fasten off after last frame rnd; otherwise, fasten off. Flower Motif: With A, ch 8, sl st in beg ch to form ring. Rnd 1: Ch 1, 16 sc in ring, sl st in beg sc to join—16 sc, 11⁄4" diameter. Rnd 2: Cont with A, ch 7 (counts as dc, ch 4), sk first sc, [sk next sc, dc in next sc, ch 4] 7 times, end with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch to join, fasten off—8 ch-4 sps, 23⁄4" diameter. Rnd 3: Join B with sl st in any ch-4 sp of Rnd 2, ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), 4 dc in same ch-4 sp, [ch 2, 5 dc in next ch-4 sp] 7 times, ch 2, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch to join—8 ch-2 sps, 41⁄4" diameter. Rnd 4: Cont with B, ch 3, sk first dc, dc in next 4 dc, [(dc, ch 3, dc) in next ch-2 sp, dc in next 5 dc] 7 times, (dc, ch 3, dc) in last ch-2 sp, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch to join—8 ch-3 sps, 53⁄4" diameter.

Sizes 28 (30, 32)" only (small flower motif): Rnd 5: Cont with B, ch 3, sk first dc, dc4tog (see Glossary) over next 4 dc of petal, [ch 5, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 5, sk next dc, dc5tog (see Glossary) over next 5 dc] 7 times, ch 5, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 5, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch to join, fasten off—16 ch-5 sps, 7" diameter.

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Rnd 6: Join C with sl st in last ch-5 sp made in Rnd 5, ch 1, sc in same sp, ch 5, *make a corner of (sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 5, 3-cl in next sc, ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp), ch 5**, [sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 5] 2 times; rep from * 2 times, rep from * to **, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2, dc in beg sc (counts as ch-5 sp—20 ch-5 sps, 71⁄2" square. Rnd 7: Cont with C, ch 1, sc in beg sp, ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 5, *over corner, (sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 5, work 3 legs of 6-cl in same ch-5 sp, sk 3-cl, work rem 3 legs of 6-cl in next ch-5 sp, picot, ch 5, sc in same ch-5 sp), ch 5**, [sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 5] 3 times; rep from * 2 times, rep from * to **, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 5, sl st in beg sc to join, fasten off—28 ch-5 sps, 81⁄2" square.

sp for corner**, ch 5, [sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 5] 5 times; rep from * 2 times, rep from * to **, [ch 5, sc in next ch-4 sp] 3 times, end with, ch 2, dc in beg sc (counts as ch-5 sp)—24 ch-5 sps. Rnd 8: Cont with C, ch 1, sc in beg sp, ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 5, *over corner, (sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 5, work 3 legs of 6-cl in same ch-5 sp, sk 3-cl, work rem 3 legs of 6-cl in next ch-5 sp, picot, ch 5, sc in same ch-5 sp), ch 5**, [sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 5] 4 times; rep from * 2 times, rep from * to **, [sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 5] 2 times, sl st in beg sc to join, fasten off—32 ch-5 sps, 91⁄2" square.

Sizes 34 (36, 38, 40)" only (large flower motif):

Size 28" only:

Rnd 5: Cont with B, ch 3, sk first dc, dc in next 5 dc, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in next 7 dc] 7 times, ch 3, sc in last ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in last dc, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch to join—16 ch-3 sps, 7" diameter. Rnd 6: Cont with B, ch 3, sk first dc, dc4tog over next 4 dc of petal, *[ch 4, sc in next ch-3 sp] 2 times, ch 4**, sk next dc, dc5tog over next 5 dc; rep from * 6 times, rep from * to **, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch to join, fasten off—24 ch-4 sps, 81⁄2" diameter. Rnd 7: Join C with sl st in last ch-4 sp made in Rnd 6, ch 1, sc in same sp, ch 5, sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 5, *3-cl in next ch-4

All sizes:

Motif Frame: Rnd 1: Join D with sl st in ch-5 sp of picot of any corner of flower motif, ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, *ch 1, [3 dc in next ch-5 sp, ch 1] across to next corner picot**, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) for corner in ch-5 sp of picot; rep from * 2 times, rep from * to **, end with 3 dc in same ch-5 sp of picot as beg, ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch to join—32 granny blocks, 91⁄2" square.

Sizes 30 (32, 34, 36)" only: Rnd 1: Join D with sl st in ch-5 sp of picot of any corner of flower motif, ch 1, sc in same ch-5 sp, *ch 5, [sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 5] across to next corner picot**, (sc, ch 5, sc) in ch-5 sp of picot for corner; rep from *


2 times, rep from * to **, end with sc in same ch-5 sp of picot as beg, ch 2, dc in beg sc (counts as ch-5 sp)— 32 (32, 36, 36) ch-5 sps. Rnd 2: Cont with D, ch 3, 2 dc in beg sp, ch 1, *[3 dc in next ch-5 sp, ch 1] across to next corner ch-5 sp**, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in corner ch-5 sp, ch 1; rep from * 2 times, rep from * to **, end with 3 dc in same sp as beg, ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch—36 (36, 40, 40) granny blocks, 101⁄2 (101⁄2, 111⁄2, 111⁄2)" square.

Pattern

Sizes 38 (40)" only: Rnd 1: Work same as for Rnd 1 for size 36" above—36 (36) ch-5 sps. Rnd 2: Work same as for Rnd 2 for size 36" above, except omit last ch 3, instead end with ch 1, dc in 3rd ch of beg ch (counts as ch-3 sp)—40 (40) granny blocks, 111⁄2 (111⁄2)" square. Rnd 3: Cont with D, ch 3, 2 dc in beg sp, *ch 1, [3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] across to next corner ch-3 sp**, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in ch-3 sp for corner; rep from * 2 times, rep from * to **, 3 dc in same sp as beg, ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch to join—44 (44) granny blocks, 121⁄2 (121⁄2)" square.

FOUR-PATCH BLOCK Use 5 colors to create 8 different small granny squares (patches) to join in 2 fourpatch squares. Refer to photos for color combinations. Note: Sizes 28 (34, 36)" do not require a frame; for other sizes, work granny square round(s) to bring four-patch block to assembly size.

Patch: Rnds 1–3: Work same as for Rnds 1–3 of granny square block (see Stitch Guide).

Sizes 28 (30, 32, 34, 36)" only: Rnd 4 (last rnd or joining rnd): Join yarn in any ch-3 corner sp, ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), 2 dc in same sp, *ch 1 or join (see Stitch Guide), [3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1 or join] across to next ch-3 corner sp**, (3 dc, ch 3 or corner join (see Stitch Guide), 3 dc) in ch-3 corner sp; rep from * 2 times, rep from * to **, end with 3 dc in same sp as beg, ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch to join, fasten off.

Sizes 38 (40)" only: Rnd 4: Work same as for Rnd 3 of granny square block. Rnd 5 (last rnd or joining rnd): Work and join same as for Rnd 4 of patch above.

Sizes 30 (32, 38, 40)" only: Motif frame: Join yarn in any ch-3 corner sp, ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, *ch 1, sk next 3 dc, [3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next 3 dc] across to next join between corners, 3 dc in 2 strands of chain of previous join, ch 1, sk next 3 dc, [3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next 3 dc] across to next ch-3 corner sp**, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in corner sp; rep from * 2 times, rep from * to **, end with 3 dc in same sp as beg, ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch, fasten off if not cont with this color—36 (36, 44, 44) granny blocks.

Make 2 body blocks in your size using either a granny square block (see Stitch Guide), a flower motif block (see Stitch Guide), or a four-patch block (see Stitch Guide) (see Notes)—32 (36, 36, 40, 40, 44, 44) granny blocks in last rnd of block. Note: Work dc in ch-1 sp bet granny blocks, not in ch-1 sps, inserting hook under 2 lps of ch (the back lp and the bump in back of the ch) each time. Body Block Finishing Rnd for all but four-patch block sizes 28 (34, 36)": With RS facing, join yarn in ch-3 sp of any corner of block (or cont with same yarn), ch 3, dc in same ch-3 sp, dc blo in next 3 dc, *[dc in next ch, dc blo in next 3 dc] across to next corner ch-3 sp, 4 dc in corner ch-3 sp**, dc blo in next 3 dc; rep from * 2 times, rep from * to **, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch, fasten off if not cont with same color for side panels—140 (156, 156, 172, 172, 188, 188) dc; 101⁄2 (111⁄2 , 111⁄2, 121⁄2, 121⁄2, 131⁄2, 131⁄2)" diameter. Body Block Finishing Rnd for fourpatch block sizes 28 (34, 36)": With RS facing, join yarn in ch-3 sp of any corner of block (or cont with same yarn), ch 3, dc in same ch-3 sp, *dc blo in next 3 dc, [dc in next ch, dc blo in next 3 dc] across to next join between corners, dc in ch of previous join, dc blo in next 3 dc, [dc in next ch, dc blo in next 3 dc] across to next corner ch-3 sp**, 4 dc in corner ch-3 sp; rep from * 2 times, rep from * to **, end with 2 dc in same sp as beg, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch, fasten off if not cont with same color for side panels—140 (172, 172) dc.

Side Panels: Worked in rows, alternating 1 RS row in sc with 1 WS row in dc flo. With RS of first body block facing, join yarn (or cont with same yarn) in 3rd dc of any 4-dc corner.

Sizes 28 (30)" only: Row 1: (RS) Ch 1, sc in 3rd dc of 4-dc corner, working toward upper edge of body, sc in 4th dc of corner, sc in next 23 (25) dc, turn—25 (27) sc. Row 2: (WS) Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), working toward lower edge of body, sk first sc, dc flo in each sc to last sc, dc in both lps of last sc, turn—25 (27) dc. Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each dc across, ending with sc in 3rd ch of tch, turn. Rows 4–6: Rep Rows 2–3 once, then work Row 2 once more, turn—25 (27) dc.

Sizes 32 (34, 36, 38)" only: Row 1: (RS) Ch 1, sc in 3rd dc of 4-dc corner, working toward upper edge of body, sc in 4th dc of corner, sc in next 26 (28, 28, 30) dc, turn—28 (30, 30, 32) sc. Row 2: (WS) Ch 3, working toward lower edge of body, sk first sc, dc2tog (see Glossary) flo over next 2 sc, dc flo in each sc to

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last sc, dc in both lps of last sc, turn—27 (29, 29, 31) dc. Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each dc across, ending with sc in 3rd ch of tch, turn. Row 4: Ch 3, working toward lower edge of body, sk first sc, dc flo in each sc to last sc, dc in both lps of last sc, turn. Rows 5–7 (7, 9, 9): Rep Rows 3–4 one (one, two, two) times, then work Row 3 once more—27 (29, 29, 31) sc. Row 8 (8, 10, 10): Ch 3, working toward lower edge of body, sk first sc, 2 dc flo in next sc, dc flo in each sc to last sc, dc in both lps of last sc, turn—28 (30, 30, 32) dc.

Size 40" only: Row 1: (RS) Ch 1, sc in 3rd dc of 4-dc corner, working toward upper edge of body, sc in 4th dc of corner, sc in next 31 dc, turn—33 sc.

matching 25 (27, 28, 30, 30, 32, 33) st, join pieces as foll. Next row (slip lp seam): (RS) Ch 1, remove lp from hook, insert hook back to front in 3rd dc of motif corner, replace lp on hook, draw through, sc in first dc of panel (first st joined), remove lp from hook, insert hook back to front in last dc of motif corner, replace lp on hook, draw through, sc in next dc of panel, slip lp seam (see Stitch Guide) in same way each of next 23 (25, 26, 28, 28, 30, 31) sc to corresponding dc of motif edge, ending with sc in 3rd ch of tch, fasten off. With RS facing, join yarn in 3rd dc of 4-dc corner at other lower corner of 2nd body block. Work 2nd side panel same as for first side panel. Slip lp seam to corresponding st of first body block, fasten off.

Straps: RIGHT STRAP:

Row 2: (WS) Ch 3, working toward lower edge of body, sk first sc, dc2tog flo over next 2 sc, dc flo in each sc to last sc, dc in both lps of last sc, turn—32 dc rem. Row 3: (RS) Ch 1, sc in each dc across, ending with sc in 3rd ch of tch, turn. Row 4: Rep Row 2—31 dc rem. Row 5: Rep Row 3. Row 6: Ch 3, working toward lower edge of body, sk first sc, dc flo in each sc to last sc, dc in both lps of last sc, turn. Rows 7–9: Rep Rows 5–6 once, then work Row 5 once more. Row 10: Ch 3, working toward lower edge of body, sk first sc, 2 dc flo in next sc, dc flo in each sc to last sc, dc in both lps of last sc, turn—32 dc. Row 11: Rep Row 5. Row 12: Rep Row 10—33 dc.

All sizes: With RS of 2nd body block facing, lay it side by side next to last row of side panel, beg with 2 sts of motif lower corner, 62 Crochetscene

2015

With RS of upper edge of one body block facing, join yarn in first dc of 4-dc corner, working across remainder of corner toward center of body. Row 1: (RS) Ch 1, sc in first dc of 4-dc corner, sc in next 3 dc of corner, sc in next 5 (5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7) dc, turn—9 (9, 9, 10, 10, 11, 11) sc. Row 2: (WS) Ch 3, sk first sc, working toward side of body, dc flo in each sc to last sc, dc in both lps of last sc, turn—9 (9, 9, 10, 10, 11, 11) dc. Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each dc across, ending with sc in 3rd ch of tch, turn. Rows 4–14 (14, 16, 16, 18, 18, 20): Rep Rows 2–3 five (five, six, six, seven, seven, eight) times or for desired strap length, then work Row 2 once more—9 (9, 9, 10, 10, 11, 11) dc. Holding RS of 2nd body block side by side with last row of strap, matching 2nd body block upper corner to lp on hook and matching sts, work slip lp seam as foll: Ch 1, remove lp from hook, insert hook back to front in first dc of motif corner, replace lp on hook, draw through, sc in first dc of panel (first st joined), cont seaming in same way to each of 3 rem dc of motif corner and to each of next 5 (5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7) dc of motif edge, ending with sc in 3rd ch of tch, fasten off.

LEFT STRAP: Rotate 2nd body block so upper edge is on top, join yarn in first dc of 4-dc corner, work 2nd strap in same way. Slip lp seam to corresponding sts of first body block, fasten off. Fit Tip: You might want to work neckline and armhole trims before working waist band. The Trim rnds are meant to hold in some of the excess stretch and give some curved shaping. This will give you a better idea of how the vest will fit, allowing you to

better judge the working length, and helping you decide if you may want to alter the depth of the waist band. Keep in mind that the more negative ease you’re wearing (the tighter the bust), the shorter the vest will hang on the body; the looser the fit, the longer the vest will hang.

Waist Band: Worked in joined, turned rnds. With RS facing, lower edge of body at top, join yarn in unworked dc just before one side panel (next dc of 4-dc lower corner). Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 1, sc in same dc, place marker (pm) in this sc, *working across row edges of panel, inserting hook under 2 strands of row edge each time, [sc in next sc row edge, 2 sc evenly spaced in next dc row edge] across panel, sc in last sc row edge of panel for 10 (10, 13, 13, 16, 16, 19) sc across side panel, sc in next dc of body block, pm in this sc**, sc in each dc across to last dc of body block, sc in last dc and pm; rep from * to **, sc in each dc across body block, end with sl st in beg sc to join, turn—90 (98, 104, 112, 118, 126, 132) sc. Rnd 2 (dec rnd): (WS) Ch 3, sk first marked sc, *dc2tog flo over next 2 sc after m, dc flo in each sc across body to 2 sc before next m, dc2tog flo over 2 sc before m, dc flo in marked sc, dc flo in each sc of side panel to next m**, dc flo in marked sc; rep from * to **, end with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch, turn—86 (94, 100, 108, 114, 122, 128) dc. Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in 3rd ch of same beg ch, sk sl st, sc in each dc around, end with sl st in beg sc, turn. Rnd 4: Ch 3, sk first sc, sk sl st, dc flo in each sc around, end with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch, turn. Rnds 5–8: Rep Rnds 3–4 two times, fasten off. Fit Tip: Adjust length by adding or omitting rnds, end with a Rnd 4.

FINISHING Trims: The 2 rnds of trim can be worked in either one or 2 contrasting colors. Neckline and armhole trims are to be worked firmly to help control some of the stretch in the straps and shape the curves. The lower trim should be worked to gauge to avoid pulling in the edge of the band.

Neckline trim: With RS facing, neckline edge on top, join yarn in unworked dc of body motif just before one strap. Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 1, sc in same dc, *working across row edges of strap, inserting hook under 2 strands of row edge each time, [sc in next sc row edge, 2 sc evenly spaced in next dc row edge] across strap, sc in last sc row edge of strap for 22 (22, 25, 25, 28, 28, 31) sc across strap, sc in each dc of


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Fresh Takes

two 20" long and 1" wide strips of leather for handles; one magnetic snap; yarn needle. Gauge 14 sts and 18 rows = 4" in sc.

motif neck edge to other strap; rep from *, end with sl st in beg sc, do not turn. If changing colors, fasten off, join new color in same sc. Rnd 2: (RS) Ch 1, rev sc (see Glossary) in first sc, [ch 1, sk next sc, rev sc in next sc] around, end with ch 1, sk last sc, sl st in same sc as beg of rnd to join, fasten off.

Notes Bag is made of 2 panels worked as a sequence of different patts and seamed on the bottom. Side panels are worked separately and then joined with a sc crochet seam. Beg ch 3 counts as dc throughout.

Armhole trim: With RS of one armhole facing, with row edges of side panel on top, join yarn in 2nd (2nd, 3rd, 3rd, 4th, 4th, 5th) sc row edge of panel. Rnd 1: (RS) Working across row edges of panel, inserting hook under 2 strands of row edge each time, sc in same sc row edge, 2 sc evenly spaced in next dc row edge, sc in next sc row edge, 2 sc evenly spaced in rem dc row edge, sc2tog last sc row edge of panel and next dc of motif armhole edge, sc in rem dc of motif to strap, working across row edge of strap, inserting hook under 2 strands of row edge each time, sc in next sc row edge, [2 sc evenly spaced in next dc row edge, sc in next sc row edge] for 22 (22, 25, 25, 28, 28, 31) sc across strap, sc in each dc of motif armhole edge to last dc, sc2tog last dc and first sc row edge of side panel, work across rem row edges of side panel as before, end with sl st in beg sc to join, do not turn. Rnd 2: (RS) Work same as for Rnd 2 of neckline trim. Rep for 2nd armhole.

Lower edge trim: With RS facing, lower edge of waist band on top, join yarn in any dc at center of one side. Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 1, sc in same dc, sc in each dc around, end with sl st in beg sc to join, do not turn. Rnd 2: (RS) Work same as for Rnd of neckline trim. Weave ends, block vest to measurements.

Bobble A

Stitch Guide

ORIGINATOR TOTE Nicoletta Tronci

1

<4

<2 1>

6-st patt rep

3

4 Garnstudio DROPS Alaska

Getting Started Finished Size 14" wide, 13" tall (without handle), and 4" deep.

Yarn Garnstudio DROPS Alaska (100% wool; 76 yd [69 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]; ): #05 dark grey (MC), 5 skeins; #58 mustard (CC1), #11 dark red (CC2), #53 dark pink (CC3), #40 grey pink (CC4), #54 purple (CC5), #37 dark blue (CC6), #45 light olive (CC7), #23 brown (CC8), 1 skein each. Garnstudio DROPS Glitter (60% cupro, 40% metal; 766 yd [700 m]/½ oz [10 g]; ): #01 gold, 1 skein. Hook Size 7 (4.5 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions Two 14" long and 11⁄4" wide strips of corrugated plastic to reinforce top border; one 14" long and 4" wide strip of corrugated plastic to reinforce bottom;

Stitch Key

3>

2

Bobble B 3> <2 1>

= patt repeat

4-st patt rep

= with MC, ch 1, sk 1 st

<1

= with CC1, bobble

2>

6-st patt rep

64 Crochetscene

= patt repeat

2015

Tapestry A

= with CC1, ch 1, sk 1 st

6>

= with CC7, bobble

2>

<3 <1

3> <2

= with CC5, tapestry sc = patt repeat

6-st patt rep

Tapestry B

= with CC2, ch 1, sk 1 st = with CC6, bobble

2> <1

6-st patt rep = patt repeat

Stitch Key <3

= with CC4, bobble

4-st patt rep

= with CC4, tapestry sc

Stitch Key <4

1>

Stitch Key <5

4>

= patt repeat

= with CC2, dc

= with MC, dc <3

FIRST-BOBBLE ROW: Same row is worked twice, using contrasting colors. RS Row A: With background color, ch 3, dc in each st to end of row, working (ch-1,

= with CC1, dc

Bobble D

Stitch Key

Bobble C

Bobble rows:

Stitch Key

= with CC7, dc = with CC7, ch 1, sk 1 st = with CC2, bobble

Tapestry single crochet (tapestry sc): Work sc with one color yarn, carrying other color yarn along top edge of previous row and work sts over it, encasing it in sc sts. To change color, work last yo of sc of first color in next color. Tapestry double crochet (tapestry dc): Work dc with one color yarn, carrying other color yarn along top edge of previous row and work sts over it, encasing it in dc sts. To change color, work last yo of dc of first color in next color. 3-double crochet cluster (3-dc cl): [Yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo and pull up lp, yo and draw through 2 lps on hook] 3 times, yo and draw through all 4 lps on hook. Beginning bobble (beg bobble): Ch 3, [yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo and pull up lp, yo and draw through 2 lps on hook] 4 times, yo and draw through all 5 lps on hook. Bobble: [Yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo and pull up lp, yo and draw through 2 lps on hook] 5 times, yo and draw through all 6 lps on hook.

= with CC7, tapestry dc = with CC3 and glitter, tapestry dc = patt repeat


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Fresh Takes

sk 1 st) for st where bobble will be placed. Drop background color, do not turn. RS Row B (bobbles): Working in front of ch-1 sps of RS Row A, join bobble color in first skipped st of RS Row, work beg bobble (see above), ch 1 for each dc worked in RS Row A and work bobble (see above) in each skipped st of RS Row A, ending with sl st in last dc of RS Row A. Drop bobble color, turn.

SECOND-BOBBLE ROW: Same row is worked twice, using contrasting colors. WS Row A: With background color, ch 3, dc in each st or insert hook under ch-1 sp of RS Row A and in bobble of RS Row B, encasing ch-arch of RS Row B, working (ch-1, sk 1 st) for st where next bobble will be placed. Drop background color, do not turn. WS Row B: Working behind ch-1 sps of WS Row A, ch 3, ch 1 for each dc worked in WS Row A and work bobble in each skipped st of WS Row A, ending with sl st in last dc of WS Row A. Drop bobble color, turn.

AFTER-BOBBLE ROW: Next row: With background color, ch 3, dc in each st or insert hook under ch-1 sp of Row A and in bobble of Row B, encasing ch-arch of Row B, across.

Bobble A patt (multiple of 6 sts): Row 1: (WS) With background color, ch 3, dc across, turn. Row 2: (RS) Work first-bobble row (see Stitch Guide) foll Row 2 of Bobble A chart, rep 6-st patt 8 times across, turn. Row 3: (WS) Work second-bobble row (see Stitch Guide) foll Row 3 of chart, turn. Row 4: (RS) With background color, work after-bobble row (see Stitch Guide). Fasten off. Bobble B patt (multiple of 4 sts): Row 1: (WS) With background color, ch 3, dc across, turn. Row 2: (RS) Work first-bobble row foll Row 2 of Bobble B chart, rep 4-st patt 11 times, then working last 4 sts, turn. Row 3: (WS) With background color, work after-bobble row. Fasten off. Bobble C patt (multiple of 6 sts): Row 1: (RS) Work first-bobble row foll Row 1 of Bobble C chart, working first 2 sts of chart, then rep 6-st patt 7 times, end with working last 4 sts, turn. Row 2: (WS) Work second-bobble row, foll Row 2 of chart, turn. Row 3: (RS) With background color, work after-bobble row. Fasten off.

Row 2: (RS) Work first-bobble row foll Row 2 of Bobble D chart, working first 3 sts of chart, then rep 4-st patt 10 times, end with working last 5 sts, turn. Row 3: (WS) Work second-bobble row, foll Row 3 of chart, turn. Row 4: (RS) With background color, work after-bobble row. Fasten off.

Cluster st patt (even number of sts): Row 1: Ch 3, *ch 1, sk next st, 3-dc cl (see above) in next st; rep from * to last st, dc in last st. Fasten off.

Crossed st patt (even number of sts): Row 1: Ch 3, *sk next st, dc in next st, dc in skipped st; rep from * to last st, dc in last st. Fasten off.

Pattern BAG PANEL 1 Bottom: With MC, ch 48. Row 1: Ch 1, sc in each ch across, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;48 sc. Rows 2â&#x20AC;&#x201C;9: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Bobble D patt (multiple of 4 sts): Row 1: (WS) With background color, ch 3, dc across, turn.

Helix Key = CC4 tapestry sc background

Swirl Key = CC1 tapestry sc background

= with CC6, surface sl st = with CC1, surface sl st = with CC2, surface sl st

= with CC6, surface sl st

Helix 7 5 3 1

48 sts

Swirl 7 5 3 1

48 sts

66 Crochetscene

2015


Raspberry Toppings! by Kristin Omdahl

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Raspberry Toppings

Sweet Clara Top

Pullover

In this delectable KIT by Kristin Omdahl You'll find— K 3 skeins of Kristin’s signature Be So Sporty yarn in raspberry* K 2 patterns for download (patterns above) K 1 packet of her Wrapture yarn wash *This is enough yarn to make one of Kristin's two seamless crochet patterns (both included in the downloadable eBook!)

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Fresh Takes

Row 1: Ch 1, sc in each ch across, turn—41 sc. Rows 2–18: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Fasten off.

Body: Rows 10–15: With CC4 and CC5, working in tapestry sc (see Stitch Guide), ch 1, work 6-st patt of Tapestry A chart 8 times across, turn. Fasten off after last row. Row 16: (RS) With CC1 and glitter held tog, work cluster st patt (see Stitch Guide), turn. Rows 17–20: With CC7 (background) and CC2 (bobbles) work bobble A patt (see Stitch Guide), turn. Row 21: (WS) With CC8 and glitter held tog, work crossed st patt (see Stitch Guide), turn. Rows 22–28: With CC4, carrying CC6, ch 1, tapestry sc across, turn. w Row 29: (WS) With CC2, work crossed st patt, turn. Row 30: (RS) With CC6 and glitter held tog, work crossed st patt, turn. Rows 31–33: with CC1 (background) and CC7 (bobbles) work bobble B patt (see Stitch Guide), turn. Row 34: With CC5, work cluster st patt, turn. Row 35: With CC3, work cluster st patt, turn. Row 36: With CC4, work cluster st patt, turn. Row 37: With CC6 and glitter held tog, work crossed st patt, turn. Rows 38–43: With MC, ch 1, sc across, turn. Row 44: With MC, work crossed st patt, turn. Rows 45–49: With MC, ch 1, sc across, turn. Fasten off.

FINISHING Panel 1 embroidery: With RS facing and CC6, CC1 and CC2, embroider plain CC4 tapestry sc section using surface crochet (see page 122), foll Helix chart. Fasten off. With CC3 and glitter held tog, surface crochet one horizontal line across Row 20, and with CC2 and glitter held tog across Row 33. Fasten off.

Panel 2 embroidery: Rows 29–32: With CC2 (background), CC4 and CC6 (bobbles), work bobble D patt (see Stitch Guide), turn. Row 33: With CC3 and glitter held tog, work crossed st patt, turn. Row 34: With CC1 and glitter held tog, work crossed st patt, turn. Row 35: With CC7, work crossed st patt, turn. Rows 36–41: With MC, ch 1, sc across, turn. Row 42: With MC, work crossed st patt, turn. Rows 43–47: Ch 1, sc across. Fasten off.

With RS facing and CC6 and glitter held tog, embroider plain CC1 tapestry sc section using surface crochet, foll Swirl chart. Fasten off. With CC2 and glitter held tog, surface crochet one horizontal line across Row 12, with CC3 and glitter held tog across Row 29, and with CC1 and glitter held tog across Row 32. Fasten off.

SIDE PANEL (MAKE 2) With MC, ch 41.

PANEL 2 Bottom: With MC, ch 48. Row 1: Ch 1, sc in each ch across, turn—48 sc. Rows 2–9: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Body: Rows 10–12: With MC (background) and CC1 (bobbles), work bobble C patt (see Stitch Guide), turn. Row 13: (WS) With CC4 work crossed st patt, turn. Rows 14–16: With CC7, CC3 and glitter held tog, working in tapestry dc (see Stitch Guide), ch 3, work 6-st patt of Tapestry B chart 8 times across, turn. Fasten off after last row. Row 17: (WS) With CC2, work crossed st patt, turn. Rows 18–25: With CC1, carrying CC6, ch 1, tapestry sc across, turn. Row 26: (RS) With CC4, work cluster st patt, turn. Row 27: With CC6 and glitter held tog, work cluster st patt, turn. Row 28: (RS) With CC7, work cluster st patt, turn.

68 Crochetscene

2015

Assembly: Weave in ends. Hold panel 1 and panel 2 with WS tog, with MC threaded on needle, whipstitch bottom of panels tog. Insert side panel bet main panels and align with bottom and side edges. Pin in place. With WS of side panel and main panel tog, RS of main panel facing, join MC at top right edge where side panel beg, inserting hook through both layers. Seam side panel to main panels and bottom by working 1 row of sc around the edge, inserting hook through both layers. Fasten off. Rep for other side panel. Fold edging of panel 1 along crossed st patt row to WS, insert smaller strip of corrugated plastic, and whipstitch (see Glossary) edge to WS of bag. Rep for other panel top edging. Make holes in ends of leather handles. Center ends along top edging and sew them to edging. Foll package directions to attach magnetic snap to center of inside top edgings. Place larger strip of corrugated plastic in bottom of bag. Weave in ends.


out),*4 dc in next dc4tog, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 1; rep from * to last dc4tog, 4 dc in next dc4tog, ch 1, dc in 3rd ch of tch, turn. Row 4: Ch 5, *dc4tog over next 4 dc, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 2; rep from * to last 4-dc group, dc4tog over next 4 dc, ch 3, dc in 3rd ch of tch, turn. Rep Rows 3–4 for patt.

ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 1] 13 (14, 14, 15, 15, 16) times, 4 dc in next dc4tog, ch 1, dc in next dc, mark next dc4tog, turn leaving rem sts unworked—14 (15, 15, 16, 16, 17) reps. Work 13 rows even across these 14 (15, 15, 16, 16, 17) reps only, then enlarge lp and remove hook.

Pattern SWEATER Right sleeve:

BUBBLES SWEATER Jill Wright

1

2

3

4

With A, ch 54 (68, 68, 82, 82, 96). Rows 1–2: Work Rows 1–2 of bubble patt (see Stitch Guide)—7 (9, 9, 11, 11, 13) reps. Rows 3–4: Change to B; work Rows 3–4 of bubble patt. Rows 5–20 (20, 18, 18, 16, 16): Work even in bubble patt, changing color every 2 rows. Cont to change color every 2 rows as you work rest of sweater.

Shape underarm:

PLUS SIZE Rowan Cotton Glacé

Getting Started Finished Size 34 (381⁄2, 43, 471⁄2, 52, 561⁄2)" bust circumference. Garment shown measures 381⁄2", modeled with 5" ease. Yarn Rowan Cotton Glacé (distributed by Westminster Fibers) (100% cotton; 125 yd [115 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]; ): #749 sky (A), 5 (5, 6, 7, 7, 8) balls; #864 greengage (B), 4 (5, 6, 7, 7, 8) balls. Hook Size F/5 (3.75 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions St markers (m); yarn needle. Gauge 14 sts (2 reps) = 3" and 8 rows = 41⁄2" in bubble patt.

Row 1: (RS) Ch 4, dc in first dc, ch 1, 4 dc in first dc4tog, work in patt to last dc4tog, 4 dc in last dc4tog, ch 1, (dc, ch 1, dc) in 3rd ch of tch, turn. Row 2: Ch 5, sk ch-1 sp, dc in next dc, ch 2, dc4tog over next 4 dc, work in patt to last 4-dc group, dc4tog over next 4 dc, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 2, dc in 3rd ch of tch, turn. Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc), 3 dc in first dc, ch 1, dc in next dc, work in patt to last dc4tog, 4 dc in last dc4tog, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 1, 4 dc in 3rd ch of tch, turn. Row 4: Ch 5, dc4tog over first 4 dc, work in patt to last 4 sts, dc4tog over last 4 sts (including top of tch), ch 3, dc in last st worked, turn—9 (11, 11, 13, 13, 15) reps. Rows 5–12: Rep last 4 rows 2 times—13 (15, 15, 17, 17, 19) reps.

Notes

Body:

Sweater is worked sideways in one piece, from one sleeve cuff to the other, separating for the neck opening, and rejoining afterward. Change color every 2 rows for stripes.

Remove hook from lp on hook and enlarge this lp to keep it from raveling. Join new yarn with a sl st at other end of last row, and ch 56 for front foundation. Fasten off. Place hook back into enlarged lp and tug it back down to size. Ch 60 for back foundation. Next row: (RS) 4 dc in 9th ch from hook, ch 1, sk 2 ch, [dc in next ch, ch 1, sk 3 ch, 4 dc in next ch, ch 1, sk 2 ch] 7 times, dc in next dc, work in patt to last dc4tog, 4 dc in last dc4tog, ch 1, dc in 3rd of tch, [ch 1, sk 3 ch, 4 dc in next ch, ch 1, sk 2 ch, dc in next ch] 8 times, turn—29 (31, 31, 33, 33, 35) reps. Work 7 (9, 11, 13, 15, 17) rows even in bubble patt.

Stitch Guide Bubble patt (multiple of 7 sts + 1): Ch 33 for gauge swatch. Row 1: (RS) 4 dc in 9th ch from hook (8 skipped ch count as 4 foundation ch and dc and ch 1), ch 1, sk 2 ch, dc in next ch, *ch 1, sk 3 ch, 4 dc in next ch, ch 1, sk 2 ch, dc in next ch; rep from * across, turn. Row 2: Ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2 throughout), *dc4tog (see Glossary) over next 4 dc, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 2; rep from * to last 4-dc group, dc4tog over next 4 dc, ch 3, dc in 7th of 8 skipped ch at beg of prev row, turn. Row 3: Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1 through-

Divide for neck: BACK: Next row: (RS) Ch 4, [4 dc in next dc4tog,

FRONT: With RS facing, sk marked dc4tog of last complete row and join new yarn with a sl st in next dc. Next row: (RS) Ch 4, *4 dc in next dc4tog, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 1; rep from * to last dc4tog, 4 dc in next dc4tog, ch 1, dc in 3rd ch of tch, turn—14 (15, 15, 16, 16, 17) reps. Work 13 rows even across these 14 (15, 15, 16, 16, 17) reps only; do not turn at end of last row, ch 6, sl st in last dc of back. Fasten off.

Rejoin back and front: Beg at enlarged lp on back section, place hook back into lp and tug it back down to size. Joining row: (RS) Work across back in patt as est to center ch-6, ch 1, 4 dc in 4th ch of center ch-6, ch 1, dc in next dc (first dc of front), work in patt across, turn—29 (31, 31, 33, 33, 35) reps. Work 7 (9, 11, 13, 15, 17) rows even in bubble patt. Fasten off.

Shape underarm: With RS facing, sk 8 dc4tog and join yarn with a sl st in next dc. Row 1: (RS) Ch 3, 4 dc in next dc4tog, work in patt to last 9 dc4tog, 4 dc in next dc4tog, dc in next dc, turn leaving rem sts unworked—13 (15, 15, 17, 17, 19) 4-dc groups across. Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count as st), dc4tog over 4 dc in first 4-dc group, work in patt to last 4-dc group, dc4tog over last 4 dc, turn. Row 3: Ch 4, sk first dc4tog, dc in next dc, work in patt to last dc4tog, ch 1, dc in last dc4tog, turn. Row 4: Ch 2, sk first ch-1 sp, dc in next dc, work in patt to last dc, dc2tog (see Glossary) over last dc and 3rd ch of tch, turn—11 (13, 13, 15, 15, 17) reps. Row 5: Ch 3, 4 dc in next dc4tog, work in patt to last dc4tog, 4 dc in next dc4tog, dc in last dc, turn. Crochetscene

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Fresh Takes

Rows 6–12: Rep Rows 2–5, then rep Rows 2–4—7 (9, 9, 11, 11, 13) reps.

Left sleeve: Work 20 (20, 18, 18, 16, 16) rows even in bubble patt. Fasten off.

FINISHING Block piece to schematic measurements. Sew side and sleeve seams. With A, work 1 rnd of sc around neck edge, bottom edge, and each sleeve cuff. Weave in ends.

213⁄4 (231⁄4, 231⁄4, 243⁄4, 243⁄4, 261⁄4)" 55 (59, 59, 63, 63, 66.5) cm

8" 20.5 cm

13⁄4" 4.5 cm

BACK

FRONT

Reduced Bubble Pattern 4

repeat

17 (191⁄4, 211⁄2, 233⁄4, 26, 281⁄4)" 43 (49, 54.5, 60.5, 66, 72) cm

LEFT SLEEVE

63⁄4" 17 cm

3

2 111⁄4 (111⁄4, 101⁄4, 101⁄4, 9, 9)" 28.5 (28.5, 26, 26, 23, 23) cm

RIGHT SLEEVE 103⁄4 (133⁄4, 133⁄4, 163⁄4, 163⁄4, 193⁄4)" 27.5 (35, 35, 42.5, 42.5, 50) cm

12" 30.5 cm 41⁄2" 11.5 cm

1

7-st patt rep

Underarm Decreases

4

repeat

3

2 repeat

1

repeat

Underarm Increases repeat

repeat

front foundation

back foundation

4 repeat

3

Stitch Key

2

= slip stitch (sl st) = chain (ch) 1 = double crochet (dc) = dc4tog

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Book Excerpt

Sienna Top Mimi Alelis

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Excerpt from It Girl Crochet By Sharon Zientara

This airy top is perfect for layering over a shirt or bikini top. The simple shaping and loose fit, bottom-up construction in one piece, and interesting stitch pattern make this a fun and easy project to crochet. Stitch up several in different colors or just add length to create a tunic or even a swingy dress.

Getting Started Finished Size 33 (36, 39)" (84 [91, 99] cm) bust circumference. Shown in size 33" (84 cm). Yarn Sportweight (#2 Fine). Shown here: Louet North America Euroflax Sport (100% wet spun long linen; 650 yd [594 m]/8 oz [225 g]): #18.2464 cedarwood, 1 (1, 2) cones. Hook Size D/3 (3 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions Stitch markers (m); yarn needle. Gauge 22 sts and 8 rows = 4" (10 cm) in pattern stitch.

Note Construction starts at the bottom, is worked in joined rounds, and then is separated for front and back starting at the armhole. Front and back shoulder will be joined with crochet on the last row.

Stitch Guide 3-tr Cluster (3-tr cl): [Yo twice, insert hook in next st, yo, draw up a lp, (yo, draw yarn through 2 lps on hook) twice] 3 times, yo, draw yarn through 4 loops on hook. 4-tr Cluster (4-tr cl): [Yo twice, insert hook in next st, yo, draw up

6½" 16.5 cm

6½ (7¼, 8)" 16.5 (18.5, 20.5) cm

3" 7.5 cm

5½" 14 cm

FRONT AND BACK 6½ (6½, 8½)" 16.5 (16.5, 21.5) cm

16½ (18, 19½)" 42 (45.5, 49.5) cm

Interweave/F+W 2014

GET THE BOOK bit.ly/it-girl -crochet

a lp, (yo, draw yarn through 2 lps on hook) twice] 4 times, yo, draw yarn through 5 loops on hook.

Stitch Pattern in Rnds (Patt in Rnds) Ch a multiple of 4, join with sl st in the first ch. Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 1 (does not count as a st), hdc in each ch around, join with sl st in first hdc. Rnd 2 (RS): Ch 4, 3-tr cl over next 3 hdc, *ch 5, 4-tr cl over next 4 hdc; rep from * around, ending with ch 2, dc on top of first 3-tr cl instead of last ch-5 sp, turn—46 (50, 54) cl. Rnd 3 (WS): Ch 1, sc in first sp, (ch 5, sc) in each ch-5 loop around, ending with ch 2, dc on top of first sc instead of last ch-5 sp, turn. Rnd 4 (RS): Ch 4 (counts as tr here and throughout), 3 tr in top of dc of last sp, 4 dc in center ch of each ch-5 loop around, join with sl st in top of beg ch-4, turn. Rnd 5 (RS): Ch 1, hdc in each tr around, turn.  Rep Rnds 2–5 for Patt in Rnds.

Stitch Pattern in Rows (Patt in Rows) Ch a multiple of 4 plus 3. Row 1 (WS): Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and on each ch across, turn. Row 2 (RS): Ch 6 (counts as tr, ch 2 here and throughout), 4-tr cl over next 4 hdc, *ch 5, 4-tr cl over next 4 hdc; rep from * across to last st, ch 2, tr in last st, turn. Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first tr, (ch 5, sc) in each ch-5 loop across to last ch-5 sp, ch 5, sc in 4th ch of beg ch-6, turn. Row 4: Ch 4 (counts as tr here and throughout), 4 tr in center ch of each ch-5 loop across, tr in the last st, turn. Row 5: Ch 1, hdc in each tr across, hdc on top of beg ch-4, turn.  Rep Rows 2–5 for Patt in Rows.

Pattern BODY Ch 184 (200, 216), join with sl st in the first ch. Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 1 (does not count as a st), hdc in each ch around, join with sl st in first hdc—184 (200, 216) hdc.

Work even in Patt in rnds for 9 (9, 13) more rnds. Rnd 11 (15) (WS): Ch 1, sc in first sp, (ch 5, sc) in each ch-5 loop around, ending with ch 5, join with sl st in first sc, turn—46 (50, 54) ch-5 sps. Place marker (m) on this st to mark the middle of underarm. Place another m on the sc at the opposite side of this row to mark the middle of the other underarm. Rnd 12 (16) (inc row): Sl st in each of next 2 ch, ch 4, 3 tr in the

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Book Excerpt

Inspiration: This top’s namesake is Sienna Miller, an English actress and fashion icon, whose bohemian style landed her on the cover of Vogue and the title “girl of the year” in 2004. She and her sister started a clothing line inspired by boho chic, describing a Bohemian as “someone who has the ability to appreciate beauty on a deep level, is a profound romantic, doesn’t know any limits, whose world is their own creation, rather than living in a box.” This top reminded me of that spirit and of something Sienna might wear or create for her own line. Stitch key

= chain (ch) = treble crochet (tr)

= slip st (sl st) = single crochet (sc) = half double crochet (hdc) = double crochet (dc)

= 3-tr cluster (3-tr cl)

same st, sk next ch, 4 tr in next ch (inc made), 4 dc in center ch of each of next 21 (23, 25) ch-5 loops, [4 tr in 2nd ch of next loop, sk next ch, 4 tr in next ch] twice, 4 dc in center ch of each of next 21 (23, 25) ch-5 loops, 4 tr in 2nd ch of next loop, sk next ch, 4 tr in next ch, sl st in top of beg ch-4, turn—200 (216, 232) tr. Rnd 13 (17): Work Rnd 5 of Patt in Rnds. Do not fasten off. Note: Work will now be separated for Front and Back and will be worked in rows.

FRONT Row 1: Ch 6 (counts as tr, ch 2), starting in same hdc, 4-tr cl over

= 4-tr cluster (4-tr cl)

first 4 hdc, *ch 5, 4-tr cl over next 4 hdc; rep from * 23 (25, 27) times, ch 2, tr in same hdc as last tr of cl, turn—25 (27, 29) cl. Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first tr, (ch 5, sc) in each ch-5 loop across to last

6

6

5

5

REPEAT

3

REPEAT

4

4

3 2

2 1 PATTERN WORKED IN ROWS

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1 PATTERN WORKED IN ROUNDS


ch-5 sp, ch 5, sc in 4th ch of beg ch-6, turn—25 (27, 29) ch-5 sps. Row 3: Ch 4, 3 tr in first sc (inc made), 4 tr in center ch of each ch-5 loop across, 4 tr in the last st, turn—108 (116, 124) tr. Row 4: Ch 1, hdc in each tr across, hdc on top of beg ch-4, turn—108 (116, 124) hdc. Starting with Row 2, work even in patt in rows for 6 rows, ending with Row 3 of patt.

Shape Front Neck Row 11: Ch 4, 4 tr in center ch of each of next 10 (11, 12) ch-5 sps, ch 4, 4 hdc in each of next 7 ch-5 sps, ch 4, 4 tr in center ch of each of next 10 (11, 12) ch-5 sps, tr in the last sc, turn. Note: Work will now be separate for Right Front and Left Front up to shoulder.

Right Front Row 1 (WS): Ch 1 (does not count as a st), hdc in each of first 41 (45, 49) tr, turn, leaving rem sts unworked.

Row 2: Ch 4, 3-tr cl over next 3 hdc, *ch 5, 4-tr cl over next 4 hdc; rep from * across, ch 2, tr in the last st, turn—10 (11, 12) cl. Row 3: Ch 1, sc in the same st, (ch 5, sc) in each of next 9 (10, 11) ch-5 sps, turn—9 (10, 11) ch-5 sps. Row 4: Ch 4 (does not count as a st), 4 tr in the center ch of each ch-5 loop across, tr in the last sc, turn—37 (41, 45) tr. Row 5: Ch 1, hdc in each tr across, do not work in tch, turn—37 (41, 45) hdc. Row 6: Ch 4, 3-tr cl over next 3 hdc, *ch 5, 4-tr cl over next 4 hdc; rep from * across, ch 2, tr in the last st—9 (10, 11) cl. Fasten off.

Left Front Row 1: With WS facing, sk center 28 hdc at neck, join yarn in first tr on Left Front, ch 1, hdc in same st, hdc in each st across, turn—41 (45, 49) hdc. Row 2: Ch 6 (counts as tr, ch 2), 4-tr cl over next 4 hdc, *ch 5, 4-tr cl over next 4 hdc; rep from * across, turn—10 (11, 12) cl. Row 3: Sl st in next 2 ch, ch 1, sc in next ch, (ch 5, sc) in each ch-5 sp across, ending with ch 5, sc on top of beg ch-4, turn—9 (10, 11) ch-5 sps. Row 4: Ch 4 (does not count as a st), 4 tr in center ch of each ch-5 sp across, tr in the last sc, turn—37 (41, 45) tr. Row 5: Ch 1, hdc in same st, hdc in each tr across, turn—37 (41, 45) hdc. Row 6: Ch 6, 4-tr cl over next 4 hdc, *ch 5, 4-tr cl over next 4 hdc; rep from * across—9 (10, 11) cl. Fasten off.

BACK Shape Back Neck Row 11: With RS facing, join yarn in marked st at right underarm, ch 4, 4 tr in center ch of each of next 10 (11, 12) ch-5 sps, ch 4, 4 hdc in each of next 7 ch-5 sps, ch 4, 4 tr in center ch of each of next 10 (11, 12) ch-5 sps, tr in the last sc, turn. Note: Work will now be separate for Left Back and Right Back up to shoulder.

Left Back Work same as Right Front through Row 5. Row 6: Ch 6, 4-tr cl over next 4 hdc, *ch 2, sc in corresponding ch-5 sp on Right Front shoulder, 4-tr cl over next 4 hdc; rep from * across—9 (10, 11) cl. Fasten off.

Right Back Work same as Left Front through Row 5. Row 6: Ch 6, 4-tr cl over next 4 hdc, *ch 2, sc in corresponding ch-5 sp on Left Front shoulder, 4-tr cl over next 4 hdc; rep from * across—9 (10, 11) cl. Fasten off.

FINISHING Weave in ends. Block.

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Feature | DIY Mesh Bags

Crochet your bag your way Jennifer E. Ryan

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We love a mesh market bag. It’s just the right tool for toting so many things, from fresh vegetables to yarn (of course!) to vacation miscellany. But sometimes, it’s not quite the right size, or the handles require more hands than we have.

Here we present patterns for three totes: a tote with shoulder straps for hands-free toting, a beach tote styled after the classic market tote, and a water bottle bag with cross-body strap. The market tote is large enough to haul a bundle of stuff for a day trip. The backpack tote is just the right size for a book and snack, leaving your hands free as you amble about. The water bottle cozy keeps your beverage nearby, and it stretches to accommodate a range of sizes. All the bags share a mesh stitch pattern, which is a bit fancier than your average mesh stitch pattern. Each bag is a different size, and if you’re not quite content with the sizes given, each pattern includes directions for altering the size to suit you. You can customize the bags by changing the colors, either the main color or the contrasting colors. You can add crocheted embellishments—such as the butterfly on the water bottle cozy—or other adornments, including beads or a pendant, as on the totes. You could also add a fabric lining in a complementary solid or patterned fabric.

Pattern Base: With A, ch 42. Rnd 1: Hdc in 3rd ch from hook (beg ch 2 does not count as st), hdc in each ch across to last ch, (hdc, ch 1, hdc) in last ch, ch 1, rotate piece to work down opposite side of beg ch, (hdc, ch 1, hdc) in first ch, hdc in each ch across to last ch, (hdc, ch 1, hdc) in last st, ch 1, (hdc, ch 1) in first st of rnd, sl st in first hdc to join—84 hdc, 6 ch-1 sps. Rnd 2: Ch 2, 2 hdc in same st, *hdc to last hdc before first ch-1 sp, 2 hdc in next st, [hdc in next ch-1 sp, hdc in next st] 2 times, hdc in next ch-1 sp**, 2 hdc in next st; rep from * to **, sl st in first hdc to join—94 hdc. Rnd 3: Ch 2, 2 hdc in same st, *hdc in next 40 sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 4 sts**, 2 hdc in next st; rep from * to **, sl st in first hdc to join—98 hdc. Rnd 4: Ch 2, hdc blo in each st around, sl st in first hdc to join.

Body: Crochet your bag your way!

...................................................................... BACKPACK TOTE Jennifer E. Ryan

1 2 3 4 Getting Started Finished Size 12" wide and 131⁄2" long, laying flat; straps: 1" wide and 22" long.

Yarn Omega Sinfonia (distributed by Creative Yarn Source) (100% cotton; 218 yd [199 m]/3½ oz [100 g]; ): #869 gold (A); #886 gray (B), 1 skein each. Hook Size H/8 (5mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions Yarn needle; 2 beads (with large holes); 1⁄3 yd cotton lining fabric (optional). Gauge Two 4-dc groups and ch-5 sps and 10 rows = 4" in patt.

Notes To make larger bag, use a larger crochet hook and/or a double strand of yarn.

Rnd 5: Ch 3, dc in next 2 sts, [ch 3, sk next 2 sts, sc in next st, ch 3, sk next 2 sts, dc in next 3 sts] 11 times, ch 3, sk next 2 sts, sc in next st, ch 3, sk next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st, dc in next st, ch 3, sk next st, sc in next st, ch 3, sk next st, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—39 dc, 13 sc. Rnd 6: Sl st in next 2 sts, *sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 5; rep from * around, ending with ch 3, hdc in first sc to join—26 ch-5 sps. Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc around post of hdc, *ch 3, 4 dc in next ch-5 sp, ch 3**, sc in next ch-5 sp; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, sl st in first sc to join—52 dc, 13 sc. Rnd 8: Sl st in next 2 ch, ch 1, sc in same ch-3 sp, ch 5, *sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 5; rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join—26 ch-5 sps. Rnd 9: Sl st in next 2 ch, ch 1, sc in same ch-5 sp, *ch 3, 4 dc in next ch-5 sp, ch 3**, sc in next ch-5 sp; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, sl st in first sc to join—52 dc, 13 sc. Rnds 10–23: Rep Rnds 8–9 seven times. Rnd 24: Rep Rnd 8. Rnd 25: Sl st in next 2 ch, sl st in ch-5 sp, ch 2, 3 hdc in same ch-5 sp, 4 hdc in each ch-5 sp around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—104 hdc. Rnds 26–27: Ch 2, hdc in each st around, sl st in first hdc to join. Rnd 28: Ch 2, [hdc in next 5 sts, ch 1, sk next st] 6 times; hdc in next 5 sts, ch 4, sk next 4 sts; rep from [ to ] 9 times, hdc in next

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Feature | DIY Mesh Bags

4 sts, ch 1, sk last hdc, sl st in first hdc to join—84 hdc. Rnd 29: Ch 2, hdc in each st and each ch-1 sp around, work 4 hdc in ch-4 sps—104 hdc. Rnd 30: Rep Rnd 26. Fasten off.

eyelets created in Rnd 28 so that both ends come out of largest eyelet (made with ch-4) in center front. Thread bead on each end of drawstring and tie an overhand knot on end.

HANDLES (MAKE 2) With A, ch 103. Row 1: Dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across, rotate work 90 degrees and work 2 sc in post of last dc, ch 3, working down other side of beg ch, dc in each ch across, 2 sc in post of last dc, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. Fasten off.

DRAWSTRING With 2 strands of B, ch 100. Fasten off.

FINISHING Steam block bag and handles. Let dry completely. Using photo as a guide, sew handles to both sides of back of bag (on top and bottom so bag can be worn as a backpack). Largest drawstring hole is at center front.

Optional Lining: Cut fabric to 24" width and 14" length (use mesh bag as a template). Fold fabric in half and sew 11⁄2" from edge to form a 14" tall tube. Flatten tube so that seam just made is in center of back. Fold over seam selvedge and top, sew down (no raw edges are showing). Fold over bottom opening 2 times and sew up (no raw edges showing). Press over about 1⁄2" along top opening 2 times. Insert lining in mesh bag and hand-sew top folded edge to inside of top just below drawstring. Weave drawstring through

BEACH TOTE Jennifer E. Ryan

1 2 3 4 Getting Started Finished Size 121⁄2" wide and 16" tall; 9" bottom diameter; handle: 11⁄4" wide and 25" long.

Yarn Omega Sinfonia (distributed by Creative Yarn Source) (100% cotton; 218 yd [199 m]/3½ oz [100 g]; ): #886 gray (A), 2 skeins; #864 lt rose (B), 1 skein. Hook Sizes H/8 (5 mm) and J/10 (6 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions Yarn needle; large jewelry pendant for embellishment. Gauge Rnds 1–5 = 41⁄2" diameter with smaller hook.

Notes To make bottom larger, add more rnds after Rnd 10, inc 12 sts evenly spaced around each rnd, then cont with Rnd 11 of patt. To make taller, after Rnd 29, cont to rep Rnds 14–15 to desired height, then cont with Rnd 30 of patt.

Backpack Tote < 11

Stitch Key = slip stitch (sl st)

rep for patt

< 10

= chain (ch)

<9

= single crochet (sc) <8 <7 <6 <5 <4

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= half double crochet (hdc) = double crochet (dc)


Stitch Guide

Body:

Join with sc (sc-join): Place slip knot on hook, insert hook in indicated st, yo and pull up a lp, yo and draw through both lps on hook.

Change to larger hook. Rnd 11: Ch 3, dc in next 2 sts, *ch 3, sk next 2 sts, sc in next st, ch 3, sk next 2 sts**, dc in next 3 sts; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—45 dc, 15 sc. Rnd 12: Sl st in next 3 dc, sl st in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, *ch 5, sc in next ch-3 sp; rep from * around, ch 3, dc in first sc to join—30 ch-5 sps. Rnd 13: Ch 1, sc around post of ending dc of previous rnd, *ch 3, 4 dc in next ch-5 sp, ch 3**, sc in next ch-5 sp; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, sl st in first sc to join—60 dc, 14 sc. Rnd 14: Sl st in next 2 ch, ch 1, sc in same ch-3 sp, ch 5, *sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 5; rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join—30 ch-5 sps. Rnd 15: Sl st in next 2 ch, ch 1, sc in same ch-5 sp, *ch 3, 4 dc in next ch-5 sp, ch 3**, sc in next ch-5 sp; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, sl st in first sc to join—60 dc, 15 sc. Rnds 16–29: Rep Rnds 14–15 seven times. Rnd 30: Rep Rnd 14. Change to smaller hook. Rnd 31: Sl st in next ch, ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-5 sp, 3 dc in each ch-5 sp around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—90 dc. Rnd 32: Ch 3, dc around, sl st in first dc to join. Rnd 33: Rep Rnd 32. Fasten off. Rnd 34: Join B with sc in any dc, sc in each dc around, sl st in first sc to join—90 sc. Rnds 35–36: Rep Rnd 34. Fasten off at end of Rnd 36. Rnd 37: Join A with sl st in any sc, ch 3, dc around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. Rnds 38–39: Rep Rnd 32. Rnd 40: Ch 1, sc around, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off.

Pattern BAG Base: With A and smaller hook, make adjustable ring (see Glossary). Rnd 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), 11 dc in ring, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—12 dc. Rnd 2: Ch 3, dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—24 dc. Rnd 3: Ch 3, dc in same st, *dc in next st, 2 dc in next st; rep from * around, ending with dc in last st, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—36 dc. Rnd 4: Ch 3, dc in same st, *dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st; rep from * around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—48 dc. Rnd 5: Ch 3, dc in same st, *dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st; rep from * around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—60 dc. Rnd 6: Ch 3, dc in same st, *dc in next 4 sts, 2 dc in next st; rep from * around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—72 dc. Rnd 7: Ch 3, dc in same st, *dc in next 5 sts, 2 dc in next st; rep from * around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—84 dc. Rnd 8: Ch 3, dc in same st, *dc in next 6 sts, 2 dc in next st; rep from * around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—96 dc. Rnd 9: Ch 3, dc in same st, *dc in next 7 sts, 2 dc in next st; rep from * around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—108 dc. Rnd 10: Ch 3, dc in same st, *dc in next 8 sts, 2 dc in next st; rep from * around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—120 dc.

HANDLE With smaller hook and A, ch 93. Row 1: Dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across, turn—90 dc. Fasten off. Rotate to work down other side of beg ch. Row 2: Join yarn with sl st in first ch, ch 3, dc in next ch and in each ch across. Fasten off.

Edging: Sc-join (see Stitch Guide) B in first dc on one side of handle, *sc in next st and in each st across, 3 sc in corner, sc around posts of dc row-ends, 3 sc in corner; rep from *. Fasten off.

FINISHING Steam block bag and handle. Let dry completely. With yarn needle and A, sew handle ends to inside top of bag; place last 2"

Beach Tote

rep for patt

< 17 < 16 < 15 < 14 < 13

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of each handle end inside tote, sewing around all edges to secure handle. Sew jewelry pendant to center front of tote band.

in ring, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join—10 dc. Rnd 2: Ch 4, *dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 1; rep from * around, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join—20 dc. Rnd 3: Ch 4, *dc in next dc, ch 1; rep from * around, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join. Rnd 4: Ch 3, *dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next dc; rep from * around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—40 dc. Fasten off.

Body:

WATER BOTTLE COZY Jennifer E. Ryan

1 2 3 4 Getting Started Finished Size 73⁄4" tall and 10" around; 31⁄2" bottom diameter;

Rnd 5: Join B with sl st in any dc, ch 3, 2 dc in next st, *ch 1, sk next dc, sc in next dc, ch 1, sk next dc**, 2 dc in each of next 2 dc; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, dc in same st as beg ch-3, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—32 dc, 8 sc. Rnd 6: Sl st in next 3 sts, *[sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 4] 2 times, sk next 4 dc; rep from * around, ending with ch 2, hdc in first sc to join—16 ch-4 sps. Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc in same sp, ch 1, 4 dc in next ch-4 sp, ch 1, *sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 1, 4 dc in next ch-4 sp, ch 1; rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join—32 dc, 8 sc. Rnd 8: Sl st in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, ch 4, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 4; rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join—16 ch-4 sps. Rnd 9: Sl st in next 2 ch, ch 1, sc in same sp, ch 1, *4 dc in next ch-4 sp, ch 1, sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 1; rep from * around, 4 dc in last ch-4 sp, sl st in first sc to join. Rep Rnds 8–9 until piece measures 6", or until as tall as water bottle, ending with Rnd 8. Next Rnd: Sl st in next 2 ch, ch 3, dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch-4 sp around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—32 dc. Fasten off. Next Rnd: Join A with sl st in any st, ch 3, dc around, sl st in first dc to join. Last Rnd: Ch 1, sc around, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off.

strap: 44" long.

HANDLE

Yarn Omega Sinfonia (distributed by Creative Yarn Source)

With A, ch 180. Row 1: Dc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across—178 dc. Rotate work 90 degrees, work 2 sc around post of last dc made, working down other side of beg ch, sl st in first ch, ch 3, dc in next ch and in each ch across, rotate work 90 degrees, work 2 sc around post of last dc, work 2 sc in beg ch 3, sl st in next dc. Fasten off.

(100% cotton; 218 yd [199 m]/3½ oz [100 g]; ): #886 gray (A); #864 lt rose (B); #869 gold (C), 1 skein each. Hook Size G/6 (4 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions Yarn needle. Gauge Rnds 1–3 = 23⁄4" diameter.

BUTTERFLY

Notes Cozy is worked in the rnd. To make it wider, work one more rnd of dc after Rnd 3, inc 16 sts evenly around, then cont with Rnd 4.

Pattern BAG Base: With A, ch 5, sl st in first ch to form ring. Rnd 1: Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1 throughout), (dc, ch 1) 9 times

< 11

rep for patt

FINISHING Steam block cozy over glass or metal container a little larger than water bottle. Steam block handle. Let both dry completely. With matching yarn, sew ends of handle to inside top of cozy, allowing each handle end to overlap top edge by about 1", securing around all 4 edges of handle-end. Sew butterfly to front with matching yarn. Weave in ends.

Water Bottle Cozy

< 10 <9 <8 <7 <6 <5 <4

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With C, ch 5. Row 1: Sc in bottom ridge lp of 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across—4 sc. Row 2: Ch 3, dc in same st, 3 tr in next st, ch 3, sl st in same st, sl st in next st, ch 4, tr in same st, 3 dtr (see Glossary) in next st, ch 4, sl st in same st, ch 1, working down other side of beg ch, sl st in first sc, ch 4, 3 dtr in same st, ch 4, sl st in same st, sl st in next st, ch 3, 3 tr in same st, dc in next st, ch 3, sl st in same st. Fasten off.

2015

JENNIFER E. RYAN loves to put crochet to use creating things that are both beautiful and practical. She also loves to sing, dance, spend time outdoors, photograph wildlife, and go for bike rides. You can find her online at www.celticknotcrochet.blogspot.com. 


Love Mesh? Check out bit.ly/mesh-project-collection

Dolores Top

Crochet Market Bags video

Curtain Call

Network Shawlet te

Minty Fresh Poncho

Juanita Top

Tango Tunic

Seashell Tote

Radical Top


Everyday Crochet

Crocheting it Forward Kathryn Vercillo

Helen learned to crochet when she was about eight years old. Her teacher was her paternal grandmother, whom she calls an “amazing lady.” “Grandma was fiercely intelligent and remained so right to the end—reading the newspaper, keeping herself informed, and completing challenging crossword puzzles,” Helen says. “Every year until the age of ninety she made a homemade Christmas cake and pudding as well as knitted toys and jumpers (as sweaters are called in England) for each of the kids in the family.” And a big family it was. Helen’s grandmother raised seven sons and one daughter. The Christmas crafting began in January and continued all year long. She lived to the age of 101.

STRENGTH IN CROCHET The first thing Helen crocheted was a scarf, followed by a baby blanket. She had trouble counting the stitches correctly, so the blanket curved in at the middle; she went back in later and filled it in freeform. “It must have looked dreadful,” she says, “but I was so proud of it!” Helen says she also remembers creating a skirt and top sometime in the early 1980s that she eventually got rid of, although she now wishes she had kept them. Helen tried to teach her own daughter to crochet but says, “We both agree that it’s perhaps not her thing.” Still, Helen found crochet to be a comfort throughout her parenting. “I’ve used craft over many years as a way to relax and to feel grounded and centered,” she says. “My son, who is now twenty-eight, was diagnosed with autism when he was six. For many years, his behavior was extremely challenging to deal with. Being able to put the ‘hard stuff’ into a box and focus on creativity for a while helped me to process difficult situations and emotions.” After concentrat82 Crochetscene

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Photo courtesy of Helen Wya

tt

Helen Wyatt learned to crochet when she was a young child and now enjoys crocheting and creating other craft items for other people. Crochet is a welcome distraction during tough times, she says, and it brings something beautiful and useful into her home in South Yorkshire, England, and into the homes of those she loves.

I’ve used craft over many years as a way to relax and to feel grounded and centered. ing on crochet for a time, she says, she could go back to deal with the difficult things when she was feeling stronger.

A CRAFTY LIFE Helen has done many different crafts over the years. She created a collection of lavender-and-lace cross-stitch angels, which she says was the most meditative of her projects. She also sewed clothes for her kids when they were small, crafted rag dolls and rag rugs, assembled and dressed china dolls, and slowly completed a doll’s house. These days she enjoys creating fabulous patchwork throws by felting. Helen adds that she also cooks. In addition to crafting and cooking, she goes to the gym and enjoys walking, spending time with her family and dog, and reading books, especially science fiction and fantasy, which allow her to disappear into an alternative world every now and then.

FAVORITE PROJECTS Although Helen knits, she prefers “the control and speed of crochet” and says, “I’m also better at crochet, so it allows more freestyle expression.” She really loves to be creative in her crochet work and doesn’t like to follow patterns. Instead, she’ll learn a technique well enough to be able to reinterpret it. She loves to play with different yarns and textures.


And she has a lot of yarn to play with. “The gran of a friend of my daughter passed away, and when her family cleared out her house, they brought me two bags of yarn,” she says. “The girl was expecting a baby, so I made a pram blanket for them as a thank-you, using a lovely, fluffy cream yarn that was in one of the bags. Two weeks later they returned—with ten big bags of yarn! Some of it is very thin—on cones and meant for machine knitting—so I crochet with several strands held together and make things like scarves and blankets.”

CRAFTING FOR OTHERS

Photos courtesy of

Helen Wyatt

Although she keeps many of her craft items in her own home, Helen really loves to crochet for others. “I love to be able to give gifts that I’ve made,” she says. “I often feel that I don’t have enough time for friends and family. I might not be able to visit with them during my spare time—which often seems to come at ten at night—but I can sit and make something for them.” Sometimes she knows who a project will be for when she starts it, but often she just creates the item, “banks it in the stash,” and waits for the right person and time to appear to give it away. She also donates some gifts to charity, saying she wants to “pay it forward.”

KATHRYN VERCILLO is the author of Crochet Saved My Life. You can find her online at www.crochetconcupiscence.com.

Get this ultimate crocheter’s go-to resource! Great ffor new and experienced crocheters alike, Crochet Stitch Dictionary offers 200 stitches with detailed written and charted instructions. This essential book presents 8 color-coded stitch sections, covering all the must-know stitches for every crocheter! Crochet Stitch Dictionary 200 Essential Stitches with Step-by-Step Photos Sarah Hazell ISBN 978-1-62033-129-3 192 pages, $22.95

Find it online at www.InterweaveStore.com

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Add a feminine note.

Bow Wrap by Jennifer Raymond. This wonderfully versatile, classy piece can be worn over the shoulders like a wrap or worn around the neck and head like a cowl. Accessible to beginners, it also gives a bit of instant gratification to more advanced crocheters. Yarn: Bernat Softee Baby (distributed by Spinrite). Page 94.

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Windsong Necklace by Kathryn White. Add instant elegance with this whimsical pendant strung on a crocheted cord that ties in the back for easy adjustment. This is a terrific small accessory for learning Romanian point lace and the Irish crochet technique of crocheting with padding cords. Yarn: Lizbeth Thread Size 20 (distributed by Handy Hands). Page 98.

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Puff Shrug by April Garwood. Pair this feminine shrug with a sundress or tank to add a touch of warmth and loads of color. This puff stitch shrug made in superwash yarn has a smooshy-soft feel, and the lace edging is classy and beautiful. Yarn: Cascade Yarns Heritage Paints and Cascade Yarns Heritage. Page 94.

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Lace Cuffs by Alla Koval. Add feminine flair with these delightful lace cuffs. Wear them with a sleeveless dress or let them peek from the cuffs of a long-sleeve top. (Or work them in a wool yarn for winter!) Yarn: Omega Cotton #5 (distributed by Creative Yarn Source). Page 97.

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Corset Socks by Brenda K. B. Anderson. The corsetlike lacing up the back of the leg allows for an adjustable custom fit without complicated pattern shaping. A solid sole, toe, and heel lend practicality to an otherwise fabulously frivolous sock. Yarn: Brown Sheep Company Wildfoote Luxury Sock Yarn. Page 92.

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Petal Top by Natasha Robarge. Inspired by blooming cherry trees, this feminine top features an eyelet stitch pattern evoking a layer of petals. Horizontal lace strips have a hint of new leaves and the intricacy of fragile branches. The top-down seamless construction allows you to adjust for a perfect fit. Yarn: Shibui Knits Staccato. Page 95.

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Siren Song

trim away excess if needed. Lace patt is worked in rows from top of foot upward. A small seam at back of ankle is sewn below where lacing starts. Sole is worked sideways in rows and sides of sole are sewn to sides of lace patt (top-of-foot). Toe and heel are worked in the rnd without joins with RS always facing. Right and left sock are worked the same. Tch counts as st when working lace patt. Tch does not count as st when working solid sc or esc sections.

Stitch Guide

3

4

Pattern With smaller hook, ch 33. Place marker (pm) in 3rd ch from hook and leave in place until last st of Row 2 is worked. Row 1: Working in bottom ridge lp, sc in

2> <1

8-st patt rep

sea

CALF/LEG

heel

top

of fo

ot

SOLE

p of

to m to

foot

sea

31⁄4 (33⁄4, 41⁄2, 51⁄4)" 8.5 (9.5, 11.5, 13.5) cm

21⁄2" 6.5 cm

TOP OF FOOT 41⁄4" 11 cm

13⁄4" 4.5 cm

heel seam

41⁄4" 11 cm

m to

2015

<3

seam to sole

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= chain (ch) = single crochet (sc) = double crochet (dc)

Reduced Lace Pattern

Notes Socks are quite stretchy, lengthwise, and fit best if sock measures 3⁄4" to 1¼" shorter than actual foot measurement. If you are between sizes and are having trouble deciding which size to make, it is better to make the smaller size. Later, as you are working the toe of the sock, you can add length to the sock to make it longer if needed. If your calves are extra large in width or length, you may need a longer length of ribbon. Beg by using 4 yd per sock and

Stitch Key

rep for patt

calf (adjustable with lacing at back of leg), 16" leg length, 81⁄2" ankle and foot circumference, 8 (81⁄2, 91⁄4, 10)" sole length designed to fit US Women’s shoe size 5–6.5 (7–8.5, 9–10.5, 11–12.5). Length is adjustable. Sample shown is for 91⁄4" long foot. Yarn Brown Sheep Company Wildfoote Luxury Sock Yarn (75% washable wool, 25% nylon; 215 yd [197 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]; ): #SY50 rosebud, 2 (3, 3, 3) skeins. Note: you will only need a small amount of the 3rd skein for the middle 2 sizes. Hook Size B/1 (2.25 mm) and D/3 (3.25 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions St markers (m); yarn needle; 2 pieces of 1⁄4" grosgrain ribbon, each cut to 3 yd. Gauge Lace patt top-of-foot directions through Row 12 = 41⁄4" wide and 4" tall with smaller hook. 20 sts and 17 rows = 4" in esc worked in turned rows with larger hook.

Top-of-foot:

103⁄4" 27.5 cm

Finished Size 9" circumference at top of

SOCK (MAKE 2)

31⁄2" 9 cm

Getting Started

toe

Brown Sheep Company Wildfoote Luxury Sock Yarn

Row 1: With smaller hook, ch 12, dc in dc marked with contrasting m, [ch 2, sc in ch-3 sp, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc] 3 times ending with last dc in marked ch, ch 21, pm in 4th ch from hook, turn. Row 2: Dc in 10th ch from hook (ch count

seam to sole

2

heel seam

1

Calf/leg:

31⁄4 (33⁄4, 41⁄2, 51⁄4)" 8.5 (9.5, 11.5, 13.5) cm

Brenda K. B. Anderson

13⁄4" 4.5 cm

CORSET SOCKS

Extended single crochet two together (esc2tog): Worked over next 2 sts, insert hook in next st, yo and pull up lp, yo and draw through 1 lp, insert hook in next st, yo and pull up lp, yo and draw through 1 lp, yo and draw through all 3 lps. Shell (sh): (Sc, hdc, 2 dc, hdc, sc) in st or sp indicated.

7th ch from hook (counts as dc, ch 2, sk 1, sc), ch 2, sk next ch, dc in next ch, [ch 3, sk next 3 ch, dc in next ch, ch 2, sk next ch, sc in next ch, ch 2, sk next ch, dc in next ch] 3 times, turn—37 sts. Row 2: Ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3), pm in 4th ch from hook, sk first dc, dc in next dc [ch 2, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc] 3 times, ending with last dc in marked st, turn—35 sts. Row 3: Ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), pm in 3rd ch from hook, sc in first ch-sp, ch 2, [dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 2] 3 times, dc in marked st, turn—37 sts. Rows 4–7 (9, 11, 13): Rep Rows 2–3 two (three, four, five) times. Next Row: Rep Row 2. Place contrasting m in last dc of row. Fasten off. Turn.


as dc, ch-3), ch 2, sk next ch, sc in next ch, ch 2, sk next ch, dc in next ch, ch 3, sk 3 ch, dc in next ch, ch 2, sk next ch, sc in next ch, ch 2, sk next ch, [dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 2] 3 times, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 2, sk next ch, sc in next ch, ch 2, sk next ch, dc in next ch, ch 3, sk 3 ch, dc in next ch, ch 2, sk next ch, sc in next ch, ch 2, sk next ch, dc in last ch, turn—71 sts. Row 3: Ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3), pm in 4th ch from hook, sk first dc, dc in next dc, [ch 2, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc] 6 times, ch 2, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 2, dc in marked st, turn. Rows 4–6: Rep Row 3 three times. The m that you placed at beg of Row 6 will designate where the top of the center back seam in sock will be. Leave this m in place until you are instructed to seam the sock. Row 7: Ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3), pm in 4th ch from hook, sk first dc, dc in next dc, [ch 2, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc] 6 times ending with last dc in marked st, leave rem sts unworked, turn—65 sts. Row 8: Ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), pm in 3rd ch from hook, sc in first ch-3 sp, ch 2, [dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 2] 6 times, dc in marked st, turn—67 sts. Row 9: Ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3), pm in 4th ch from hook, sk first dc, dc in next dc [ch 2, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc] 6 times ending with last dc in marked st, turn—65 sts. For shorter calf length: Rep Rows 8–9 fourteen times. For average calf length: Rep Rows 8–9 fifteen times. For longer calf length: Rep Rows 8–9 sixteen times. Do not fasten off. Solid edging at top of stocking: Row 1: Cont with smaller hook, ch 1 (does not count as st throughout), turn, sc in next 5 sts, [ch 3, sk next (ch-2, sc, ch-2), beg with next dc, sc in next 5 sts] 6 times, turn—53 sts. Row 2: Ch 1, [sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next ch-3 sp] 6 times, sc in last 5 sts, turn—47 sts. Row 3: Ch 1, sc across, turn. Row 4: Ch 1, sc in next st, ch 2, sk next 2 sts, sc in next 41 sts, ch 2, sk next 2 sts, sc in last st, turn. Hole at each end is for corset lacing. Row 5: (RS) Ch 1, sc in next st, 2 sc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next 41 sts, 2 sc in next ch-2 sp, sc in last st. Do not fasten off. Block sock. Using yarn tail and yarn needle, whipstitch (see Glossary) center-back-heel seam. The top of this seam was marked at corner. Match the patt across the row so that the

st patt cont across seam.

Scalloped edging for lacing: With RS facing, rotate work 90 degrees to work down side edge. Cont with smaller hook and working lp, work sh (see Stitch Guide) in hole at end of solid edging at top of sock. Cont to work sh in each of the larger holes along edge. Note: Only work in sps with the larger holes, skipping sps with (ch-2, sc, ch-2) sts at the row-ends. When you reach the bottom of the opening, work 3 sc across bottom lp, rotate with same side facing and work sh in each larger sps along opposite edge ending with sh in last sp. Sl st to fasten off. Weave in ends.

Rnd 3: [Esc2tog, esc in next 20 sts, esc2tog] 2 times—44 sts. Rnd 4: [Esc2tog, esc in next 18 sts, esc2tog] 2 times—40 sts. Rnd 5: [Esc2tog, esc in next 16 sts, esc2tog] 2 times—36 sts. Rnd 6: [Esc2tog, esc in next 14 sts, esc2tog] 2 times—32 sts. Rnd 7: [Esc2tog, esc in next 12 sts, esc2tog] 2 times—28 sts. Rnd 8: [Esc2tog, esc in next 10 sts, esc2tog] 2 times—24 sts. Rnd 9: [Esc2tog, esc in next 8 sts, esc2tog] 2 times—20 sts. Rnd 10: [Esc2tog, esc in next 6 sts, esc2tog] 2 times—16 sts. Fasten off with sl st in next st, leaving long tail.

Toe:

SOLE Ch 18 (21, 24, 27). Row 1: With larger hook, beg with 3rd ch from hook, and working in bottom ridge lp, esc (see Glossary) across, turn—16 (19, 22, 25) sts. Row 2: Ch 2, dc in next 6 (7, 8, 8) sts, esc in next 10 (12, 14, 17) sts, turn—16 (19, 22, 25) sts. Row 3: Ch 2, esc across. Rep Rows 2–3 six times. Fasten off, leaving long tail. Using yarn tails and yarn needle, sew side edges (the foundation ch and the last row worked) of sole to sides of lace patt top-of-foot. Make sure that the wider end of the sole is pointing toward the heel of the sock.

Rnd 1: With RS of sock facing, using larger hook, pull up lp at either side of toe opening, ch 1, work 20 esc evenly spaced across to opposite side of toe opening, work another 20 esc evenly spaced across opposite edge of toe opening, do not join—40 sts total around toe opening. In order to sp sts evenly, it may help to divide each section in half with a m. Then work 10 esc to m, then another 10 esc across to opposite seam, rep. Rnds 2–4: Esc in each st. Add or subtract rnds to adjust length of sock here. Each rnd adds another ¼" to sock. Rnd 5: [Esc2tog, esc in next 16 sts, esc2tog] 2 times—36 sts. Rnd 6: Esc around. Rnd 7: [Esc2tog, esc in next 14 sts, esc2tog] 2 times—32 sts. Rnd 8: [Esc2tog, esc in next 12 sts, esc2tog] 2 times—28 sts. Rnd 9: [Esc2tog 2 times, esc in next 6 sts, esc2tog 2 times] 2 times—20 sts. Fasten off with a sl st in next st, leaving long tail.

FINISHING Use yarn tails and yarn needle to whipstitch heel closed. Rep for toe opening. Weave in ends. Lace ribbon through scalloped holes at back edge of sock.

Heel: Rnd 1: With RS of sock facing, using larger hook, pull up lp at either corner of heel opening, ch 1, work 26 esc evenly spaced across to opposite corner of heel opening, rotate work and work another 26 esc evenly spaced across opposite side of heel opening, do not join—52 sts total around heel opening. In order to sp sts evenly, it may help to divide each side in half with a m. Then work 13 esc sts to m, then another 13 esc across to corner, rotate work and rep for other edge. Rnd 2: [Esc2tog (see Stitch Guide), esc in next 22 sts, esc2tog] 2 times—48 sts. Crochetscene

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Siren Song

Row 1: (RS) Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across—111 sc. Row 2: Ch 2 (tch does not count as st throughout), dc in first sc, [ch 1, sk next sc, puff st (see Stitch Guide) in next sc] across to last 2 sc, ch 1, sk next sc, dc in last sc, turn—54 puff sts. Rows 3–29: Ch 2, dc in first dc, [ch 1, puff st in next puff st] across to last dc, ch 1, dc in last dc, turn. Row 30: Ch 1, sc in each st and ch-sp across—111 sc. Do not fasten off.

foundation ch left of sleeve seam. Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 1, work 96 sc evenly around to next sleeve seam, sk seam and work 96 sc evenly around to first sleeve seam, sl st in first sc to join—192 sc. Rnds 2–4: Work as for sleeve edging. Fasten off. Weave in ends. Block to measurements.

Sleeves:

PUFF SHRUG April Garwood

1

2

3

4

With RS tog, fold shrug in half lengthwise. Joining row: Ch 1, with edges even and working through both layers, sl st in next 11 sts and ch-sps—11 sl sts. Fasten off. With RS tog and working through both layers, join MC with sl st in 11th st from end of row. Joining row: Sl st in next 10 sts and ch-sps—11 sl sts. Fasten off.

Cascade Yarns Heritage Paints

Getting Started

BOW WRAP

Finished Size 113⁄4" sleeve circumference

Jennifer Raymond

and 233⁄4" from sleeve edge to sleeve edge to fit 34" bust circumference with 2" ease. Size is adjustable. Yarn Cascade Yarns Heritage Paints (75% superwash merino, 25% nylon; 437 yd [400 m]/3½ oz [100 g]; ): #9883 wild roses (MC), 1 skein. Cascade Yarns Heritage (75% superwash merino, 25% nylon; 437 yd [400 m]/3½ oz [100 g]; ): #5616 fuschia (CC), 1 skein. Hook Size F/5 (3.75 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions Yarn needle. Gauge 9 puff sts and 91⁄2 rows = 4" in patt.

1

Finished Size 38 (40, 44, 48)" to fit 34 (36, 40, 44)" bust circumference.

Yarn Bernat Softee Baby (distributed by

FINISHING

Pattern SHRUG

Body edging:

Stitch Guide Puff stitch (puff st): Yo, insert hook in st indicated, yo and pull up lp to dc height, [yo, insert hook in same st, yo and pull up lp to dc height] 2 times, yo and draw through all 7 lps on hook.  Shell (sh): (Puff st (see above), [ch 2, puff st] 2 times) in indicated st.

With RS facing, join CC with sl st in first

With MC, ch 112.

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4

Getting Started

With RS facing, join CC with sl st in sleeve seam of sleeve opening. Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 1, sl st in next row-end, sc in same sp, work 71 sc in row-ends evenly around, sl st in first sc to join—72 sc. Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in same sc, sk next 2 sc, sh (see Stitch Guide) in next sc, sk next 2 sc, *sc in next sc, sk next 2 sc, sh in next sc, sk next 2 sc; rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join—12 shs. Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in same sc, ch 3, sc in middle puff st of next sh, ch 3, *sc in next sc, ch 3, sc in middle puff st of next sh, ch 3; rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join—24 ch-3 sps. Rnd 4: Ch 1, *(2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc) in next ch-3 sp, sk next sc; rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off. Rep for 2nd sleeve opening.

Shrug is made by working a rectangle, folding it lengthwise and seaming it to make short sleeves. Edging is stitched around sleeve edges and around body opening. To fit different bust circumferences, inc or dec number of foundation ch to be a multiple of 2 ch + 4. Tch does not count as st throughout.

3

Bernat Softee Baby

Sleeve edging:

Notes

2

Spinrite) (100% acrylic; 362 yd [331 m]/5 oz [142 g]; ): #16603030044 flannel (MC), 3 (4, 4, 4) skeins; #16603030424 soft red (CC), 1 skein. Hook Sizes L/11 (8 mm) and H/8 (5 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions Yarn needle; optional: locking st markers (m). Gauge Sc blo with yarn held double: 10.5 sts and 16 rows = 4" with larger hook. Sc blo with yarn held single: 20 sts and 23 rows = 4" with smaller hook.

Notes All sc are worked in blo unless otherwise noted.

Pattern BODY With 2 strands of MC held tog and larger hook, loosely ch 101 (105, 117, 125). Row 1: (WS) Sc in back ridge of 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, turn—100 [104, 116, 124] sts. Row 2: (RS) Ch 1, sc blo across, turn. Rows 3–30: Rep Row 2. Fasten off.


TIE With single strand of CC and smaller hook, loosely ch 39. Row 1: (WS) Sc in back ridge of 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, turn—38 sts. Row 2: (RS) Ch 1, sc blo across, turn. Rows 3–16: Rep Row 2. Fasten off.

Yarn Shibui Knits Staccato (70% superwash merino, 30% silk; 191 yd [175 m]/ 1¾ oz [50 g]; ): #106 raspberry, 5 (5, 6, 6, 6, 7) skeins. Hook Size G/6 (4 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions 32 st markers (m; short spare yarn ties can be used instead); yarn needle. Gauge 161⁄2 sts and 13 rows = 4" in upper body patt.

Row 4: Ch 3, 3 dc in ch-2 sp, *sk 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, sk 2 sc, sh in ch-2 sp; rep from * across, finishing with 3 dc in last ch-2 sp, dc in last sc, turn. Row 5: Ch 1, sc in next 5 sts, *ch 2, sk 1 sc, sc in next 7 sts; rep from * across ending with sc in last 5 sts, turn. Row 6: Ch 1, sc in first 3 sc, *sk 2 sc, sh in next ch-2 sp, sk 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc; rep from * across, turn. Rep Rows 3–6 for patt.

Notes

Pattern

Garment is worked back and forth in rows from shoulders down, then in one piece in the rnd from underarms to hem.

TOP

Stitch Guide

Note: Markers (m) separate center patterned part from sleeves. Move m up every row. Ch 24 (26, 28, 30, 28, 30), turn. Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across, turn—23 (25, 27, 29, 27, 29) sc. Row 2: (RS) Ch 1, sc2tog (see Glossary), sc in next 11 (13, 15, 17, 15, 17) sc, place marker (pm) in sc just made, sc in next 2 sc, sk 2 sc, sh in next sc, sk 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, turn—17 (19, 21, 23, 21, 23) sc, 1 sh. Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first sc, ch 2, sk 1 sc, sc in next 7 sts, ch 2, sk 1 sc, sc in marked sc, sc across, turn. Row 4: Ch 3, dc2tog (see Glossary), dc to m, dc in marked sc, 3 dc in ch-2 sp, sk 2

Upper front: RIGHT SHOULDER:

Shell (sh): 5 dc in st or sp indicated. V-st: (Dc, ch 2, dc) in st or sp indicated.

Upper body patt (multiple of 8 sts + 4):

FINISHING

51⁄2 (6, 61⁄2, 7, 61⁄2, 7)" 14 (15, 16.5, 18, 16.5, 18) cm

9 (9, 9, 9, 11, 11)" 23 (23, 23, 23, 28, 28) cm

Stitch Key

1⁄2" 1.3 cm

Leaving a 6" tail at each end, seam short ends of body tog using mattress st (see Glossary). When finished, pull yarn tightly to gather edges. Turn piece to WS and tie tails tog, creating a tube at seam. Use tails to sew reinforcement of tube connection. Wrap tie around body’s seam to hide seam. With locking st markers, pin short edges tog and seam with mattress st. Weave in ends. Block gently.

Ch 36 for swatch. Row 1: (WS) Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across, turn—35 sc. Row 2: (RS) Ch 1, sc in first 3 sc, *sk 2 sc, sh (see Stitch Guide) in next sc, sk 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc; rep from * across, turn—4 sh made. Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first sc, *ch 2, sk 1 sc, sc in next 7 sts; rep from * to last 2 sc, ch 2, sk 1 sc, sc in last sc, turn.

= slip stitch (sl st) = chain (ch)

71⁄2" 19 cm

21⁄2" 6.5 cm

= single crochet (sc) = double crochet (dc) = V-st

15" 38 cm

34 (36, 38, 40, 42, 44)" 86.5 (91.5, 96.5, 101.5, 106.5, 112) cm

= shell (sh)

42 (44, 46, 48, 50, 52)" 106.5 (112, 117, 122, 127, 132) cm

PETAL TOP Natasha Robarge

2

3

<7

Upper Body Pattern

6>

4 Shibui Knits Staccato

Getting Started Finished Size 34 (36, 38, 40, 42, 44)" bust circumference (blocked). Sample shown measures 36", modeled with 2" ease.

rep for patt

1

Reduced Body Skirt Pattern

<6

5>

<5 <4 <4

3>

<2

1>

3> <2

8-st patt rep

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Siren Song

sc, sc in next 3 sc, sk 2 sc, 3 dc in ch-2 sp, dc in last sc, turn—21 (23, 25, 27, 25, 27) sts. Row 5: Ch 1, sc in next 5 sts, ch 2, sk 1 sc, sc in next 5 sts, sc across, turn. Row 6: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc to m, sc in marked sc, sc in next 2 sc, sk 2 sc, sh in ch-2 sp, sk 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, turn—15 (17, 19, 21, 19, 21) sc, 1 sh. Fasten off.

LEFT SHOULDER AND FRONT: Ch 24 (26, 28, 30, 28, 30), turn. Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc across, turn—23 (25, 27, 29, 27, 29) sc. Row 2: (RS) Ch 1, sc in first 3 sc, sk 2 sc, sh in next sc, sk 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, pm in sc just made, sc to last 2 sc, sc2tog, turn—17 (19, 21, 23, 21, 23) sc, 1 sh. Row 3: Ch 1, sc to m, sc in marked sc, ch 2, sk 1 sc, sc in next 7 sts, ch 2, sk 1 sc, sc in last sc, turn.

marked sc, sc in next 2 sc, *sk 2 sc, sh in next ch-2 sp, sk 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc; rep from * through marked sc, sc to last 2 sc, sc2tog, turn. Row 11: Ch 1, sc to m, sc in marked sc, *ch 2, sk 1 sc, sc in next 7 sts; rep from * to 1 sc before m, ch 2, sk 1 sc, sc in marked sc, sc across, turn. Row 12: Ch 3, dc2tog, dc to m, dc in marked sc, 3 dc in ch-2 sp, *sk 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, sk 2 sc, sh in ch-2 sp; rep from * across, ending with 3 dc in last ch-2 sp, dc in marked sc, dc to last 2 sc, dc2tog, turn. Rows 13–21: Rep Rows 9–12 until 2 (4, 6, 8, 6, 8) sts are left to m on each side, ending with Row 9. Row 22 (beg inc for armhole): Ch 1, 2 sc in next sc, sc to m, sc in marked sc, sc in next 2 sc, *sk 2 sc, sh in next ch-2 sp, sk 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc; rep from * through marked sc, sc to last sc, 2 sc in last sc, turn. Row 23: Rep Row 11. Fasten off.

Upper back: RIGHT SHOULDER: Row 1: (WS) Join yarn with sc to first st of sleeve, sc across, turn. Row 2: (RS) Ch 1, sc in next 3 sc, sk 2 sc, sh in next sc, sk 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, pm in st just made, sc across, turn. Row 3: Ch 1, sc to m, sc in marked sc, ch 2, sk 1 sc, sc in next 7 sts, ch 2, sk 1 sc, sc in last sc. Fasten off.

to m, dc in marked sc, 3 dc in ch-2 sp, **sk 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, sk 2 sc, sh in ch-2 sp; rep from ** across, ending with 3 dc in last ch-2 sp, dc in marked sc, dc to last sc, 2 dc in last sc, ch 4, sl st in first dc of back, turn, sl st in next 2 sts—142 (150, 158, 166, 174, 182) sts.

Body: Rnd 1: Ch 1, **sc to m, sc in next 5 sts, *ch 2, sk 1 sc, sc in next 7 sts; rep from * to next m ending with sc in last 5 sts (5th st marked); rep from **, sc to end of rnd, sl st in beg sc, turn. Rnd 2: (RS) Ch 1, **sc to m, sc in marked sc, sc in next 2 sc, *sk 2 sc, sh (see Stitch Guide) in next ch-2 sp, sk 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc; rep from * through marked sc; rep from **, sc to end of rnd, sl st in beg sc, turn. Rnd 3: Ch 1, **sc to m, sc in marked sc, *ch 2, sk 1 sc, sc in next 7 sts; rep from * to one st before m, ch 2, sk 1 sc, sc in marked sc; rep from **, sc to end of rnd, sl st in beg sc, turn. Rnd 4: Ch 3, **dc to m, dc in marked sc, 3 dc in ch-2 sp, *sk 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, sk 2 sc, sh in ch-2 sp; rep from * to next m, ending with 3 dc in last ch-2 sp, dc in marked sc; rep from **, dc to end of rnd, sl st in beg sc, turn. Rep Rnds 1–4 two times.

LEFT SHOULDER AND BACK: Row 4: Ch 3, 3 dc in ch-2 sp, sk 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, sk 2 sc, 3 dc in ch-2 sp, dc in marked sc, dc to last 2 sc, dc2tog, turn—21 (23, 25, 27, 25, 27) sts. Row 5: Ch 1, sc to m, sc in next 5 sts, ch 2, sk 1 sc, sc in next 5 sts, turn. Row 6: Ch 1, sc in first 3 sc, sk 2 sc, sh in next ch-2 sp, sk 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc (last sc marked), sc to last 2 sc, sc2tog, turn—15 (17, 19, 21, 19, 21) sc, 1 sh. Row 7 (join shoulders): Ch 1, sc to m, sc in marked sc, ch 2, sk 1 sc, sc in next 7 sts, ch 2, sk 1 sc, sc in last sc of left shoulder, ch 37 (37, 37, 37, 45, 45), sc in first sc of right shoulder, ch 2, sk 1 sc, sc in next 7 sts, ch 2, sk 1 sc, sc in marked sc, sc across, turn. Row 8: Ch 3, dc2tog, dc to m, dc in marked sc, 3 dc in ch-2 sp, *with ch counting as sts, sk 2 sts, sc in next 3 sts, sk 2 sts, sh in ch-2 sp/next sc; rep from * across neck ch, ending with 3 dc in last ch-2 sp, dc in marked sc, dc to last 2 sc, dc2tog, turn. Row 9: Ch 1, sc to m, sc in next 5 sts, *ch 2, sk 1 st, sc in next 7 sts; rep from * across ending with sc in last 5 sts (5th st marked), sc across, turn. Row 10: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc to m, sc in

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Row 1: (WS) Join yarn with sc in first st of shoulder at neck, sc across, turn. Row 2: (RS) Ch 1, sc in next 13 (15, 17, 19, 17, 19) sc, pm in sc just made, sc in next 2 sc, sk 2 sc, sh in next sc, sk 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, turn. Row 3: Ch 1, sc in next sc, ch 2, sk 1 sc, sc in next 7 sts, ch 2, sk 1 sc, sc in marked sc, sc across, turn. Row 4 (join shoulders): Ch 3, dc to m, dc in marked sc, 3 dc in ch-2 sp, sk 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, sk 2 sc, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp, dc in last sc of left shoulder, ch 37 (37, 37, 37, 45, 45), dc in first sc of right shoulder, 3 dc in ch-2 sp, sk 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, sk 2 sc, 3 dc in ch-2 sp, dc in marked sc, dc across, turn. Rows 5–25: Rep Rows 9–12 of front until 2 (4, 6, 8, 6, 8) sts left to m on each side, ending with Row 9. Row 26 (beg inc for armhole): Rep Row 22 of front. Row 27: Rep Row 11 of front. Row 28 (inc for armholes and join front and back): Ch 3, dc in same sc, dc to m, dc in marked sc, 3 dc in ch-2 sp, *sk 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, sk 2 sc, sh in ch-2 sp; rep from * across, ending with 3 dc in last ch-2 sp, dc in marked sc, dc to last sc, 2 dc in last dc, ch 4, 2 dc in first dc of front, dc

Body skirt: Rnd 1: Ch 3, dc around, inc 2 dc (work 2 dc in each side st), sl st in top of beg ch-3, turn—144 (152, 160, 168, 176, 184) dc. Rnd 2: (RS) Ch 4, sk 1 dc, *dc in next dc, ch 1, sk 1 dc; rep from * around, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-4, turn. Rnd 3: (WS) Ch 3, dc in ch-1 sp, *dc in next dc, dc in ch-1 sp; rep from * around, sl st in top of beg ch-3, turn. Rnd 4: (RS) Ch 5, dc in same st, ch 1, sk 3 dc, sh in next dc, ch 1, *sk 3 dc, V-st (see Stitch Guide) in next dc, ch 1, sk 3 dc, sh in next dc, ch 1; rep from * around, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-5, do not turn. Rnd 5: (RS) Sl st in first ch-2 sp, ch 5, dc in same sp, V-st in 3rd dc of shell, *V-st in next ch-2 sp, V-st in 3rd dc of next shell;


rep from * around, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-5, turn. Rnd 6: (WS) Ch 3, dc in next dc, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, *dc in next 2 dc, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp; rep from * around, sl st in top of beg ch-3, turn. Rnd 7: Rep Rnd 2. Rnd 8: Mark mid side ch-1 sp on each side of garment. Mark 1st, 3rd, 5th, and 7th ch-1 sps on each side of both m. Ch 3, dc in ch-1 sp, *dc in next dc, 2 dc in marked sp/1 dc in unmarked sp; rep from * around, sl st in top of beg ch-3, turn—16 sts inc’d. Rnds 9–12: Rep Rnds 4–7. Rnd 13: Rep Rnd 3. Rnds 14–17: Rep Rnds 4–7. Rnd 18: Mark side ch-1 sp on each side of garment. Mark 1st, 3rd, 5th, 7th, 9th, 11th, 13th, and 15th ch-1 sps on each side of both m. Ch 3, dc in ch-1 sp, *dc in next dc, 2 dc in marked sp/1 dc in unmarked sp; rep from * around, sl st in top of beg ch-3, turn—32 sts inc’d. Rnds 19–22: Rep Rnds 4–7. Rnds 23–24: Rep Rnds 3–4. Rnd 25: Ch 1, *3 sc in ch-2 sp, sc in ch-1 sp, sc in next 5 dc, sc in ch-1 sp; rep from * around, sl st in beg sc. Fasten off.

Creative Yarn Source) (100% cotton; 164 yd [150 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]; ): #55 pistachio, 1 ball. Hook Size B/1 (2.25 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions Ten 1⁄4" white pearl buttons (shown: La Mode buttons, item #4662); yarn needle; sewing needle and matching thread. Gauge 6 reps and 20 rows = 4" in patt.

Stitch Guide Picot: Ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook. Shell (sh): [3 sc, picot, (2 sc, picot) 2 times, 3 sc] in indicated sp or st.

Pattern CUFF (MAKE 2)

LACE CUFFS Alla Koval

1

2

3

4 Omega Cotton #5

Getting Started Finished Size 71⁄2 (81⁄4, 9)" wide and 41⁄2" long.

Yarn Omega Cotton #5 (distributed by

Ch 47 (52, 57). Row 1: (RS) Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn—46 (51, 56) sc. Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first sc, [ch 5, sk next 4 sc, sc in next sc] across, turn—9 (10, 11) ch-5 sps. Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first sc, 7 sc in each ch-5 sp across, sc in last sc, turn. Row 4: Ch 1, sc in first sc, ch 5, sk next 3 sc, sc in next sc, [ch 5, sk next 6 sc, sc in next sc] across to last 4 sc, ch 2, sk next 3 sc, dc in last sc, turn—9 (10, 11) ch-5 sps. Row 5: Ch 1, sc in first dc, 3 sc in next

Reduced Cuff Pattern

Stitch Key

6>

= chain (ch)

<5

= slip stitch (sl st) = single crochet (sc) = half double crochet (hdc)

4>

= double crochet (dc) = patt repeat

<3 2> <1

FINISHING

Reduced Ruffle Border

Armhole edging: Pm about 1⁄3 of sleeve circumference from shoulder seam on both sides. With RS facing, join yarn at underarm, sc around evenly to m, sc in every other st bet m, gathering sleeve a little, sc evenly to end of rnd, sl st in beg sc. Fasten off.

Neckline edging: With RS facing, join yarn at shoulder seam, sc evenly around. Fasten off. Weave in ends. Lightly block.

<7 6

<5

> 4

<3

> 2

<1

>

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Siren Song

ch-2 sp, 7 sc in each ch-5 sp across to last ch-5 sp, 4 sc in last ch-5 sp, turn—64 (71, 78) sc. Row 6: Ch 1, sc in first sc, [ch 5, sk next 6 sc, sc in next sc] across, turn. Rows 7–12: Rep Rows 3–6, then rep Rows 3–4. Fasten off.

Ruffled Border: Size 71⁄2" only: Row 1: (RS) With RS facing and working in free lps of beg ch, join with sl st in first ch, ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), sk next ch, dc in next ch, *[ch 2, sk next ch, dc in next ch] 3 times, [ch 2, dc in next ch] 2 times**, [ch 2, sk next ch, dc in next ch] 3 times, ch 2, dc in next dc; rep from * 2 times, ending last rep at **, [ch 2, sk next ch, dc in next ch] 2 times, ch 2, dc in last ch, turn—27 ch-2 sps.

Size 81⁄4" only: Row 1: (RS) With RS facing and working in free lps of beg ch, join with sl st in first ch, ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), sk next ch, dc in next ch, *[ch 2, sk next ch, dc in next ch] 3 times, ch 2, dc in next ch*, ([ch 2, sk next ch, dc in next ch] 8 times, ch 2, dc in next ch) 2 times; rep from * to *, turn—27 ch-2 sps.

Size 9" only: Row 1: (RS) With RS facing and working in free lps of beg ch, join with sl st in first ch, ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), sk next 2 chs, dc in next ch, [ch 2, sk next ch, dc in next ch] across, turn—27 ch-2 sps.

[ch 3, sc in next ch-2 sp] 2 times, ch 1, hdc in last sc, turn. Row 4: Ch 1, sc in first hdc, [ch 3, sc in next ch-2 sp] 2 times, *ch 9, sc in 2nd picot of next sh, ch 9, sc in next ch-3 sp**, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 4 times; rep from *, then rep from * to **, [ch 3, sc in next ch-2 sp] 2 times, turn. Row 5: [Ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 2 times, *sh in each of next 2 ch-9 sps, sc in next ch-3 sp**, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 3 times; rep from *, then rep from * to **, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, hdc in next sc, turn. Row 6: Ch 1, sc in first hdc, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, *[ch 9, sc in 2nd picot of next sh] 2 times, ch 9, sc in next ch-3 sp**, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 2 times; rep from *, then rep from * to **, ch 3, sc in last ch-3 sp, turn. Row 7: Ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, *sh in each of next 3 ch-9 sps, sc in next ch-3 sp**, picot, sc in next ch-3 sp; rep from *, then rep from * to **, ch 1, hdc in last sc. Do not fasten off.

Row 1: (RS) Ch 1, with RS facing and working in row-ends, work 27 sc evenly across left cuff edge, 3 sc in corner; working along upper edge of cuff, (sc, picot, 2 sc) in next ch-2 sp, (4 sc, picot, 3 sc) in each ch-5 sp across; work 26 sc evenly across right cuff edge.

3

4 Lizbeth Thread Size 20

Getting Started Finished Size 15" across necklace, plus

Right cuff edging: Row 1: (RS) Rep Row 1 of left cuff edging.

Notes

BUTTONHOLE BAND:

To adjust size, make the ch sections and the Romanian point lace to desired length for fit.

BUTTONHOLE BAND:

2015

2

12" of ties. Medallion measures 23⁄4" long by 13⁄8" wide. Yarn Lizbeth Thread Size 20 (distributed by Handy Hands) (100% Egyptian cotton; 210 yd [191 m]/¾ oz [25 g]; ): #672 burgundy; one ball. Lizbeth Thread Size 10 (distributed by Handy Hands) (100% Egyptian cotton; 122 yd [111 m]/¾ oz [25 g]; ): #672 burgundy; one ball. Hook Size 9 (1.4 mm) steel hook, size 7 (1.65 mm) steel hook. Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions One 2 mm cut crystal bead; needle and thread to sew on bead; yarn needle. Gauge Medallion = 23⁄4" long by 13⁄8" wide with smaller hook.

With RS facing, join with sl st in corner sc of Row 1 of left cuff edging, working from left to right along left side of cuff edge, ch 1, rev sc in same st and in next sc, *ch 2, sk next sc, rev sc in next 5 sc; rep from * across to last 3 sc, ch 2, sk next sc, rev sc in last 2 sc. Fasten off.

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Left cuff edging:

BUTTON BAND:

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first dc, [ch 3, sc in next ch-2 sp] 3 times, *ch 9, sk next 2 ch-2 sps, sc in next ch-2 sp**, [ch 3, sc in next ch-2 sp] 6 times; rep from *, then rep from * to **, [ch 3, sc in next ch-2 sp] 3 times, turn—18 ch-3 sps, 3 ch-9 sps. Row 3: [Ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 3 times, *sh (see Stitch Guide) in next ch-9 sp, sc in next ch-3 sp**, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 5 times; rep from *, then rep from * to **,

Kathryn White

FINISHING

Working from left to right, ch 1, rev sc (see Glossary) in each sc of right side of cuff edge. Fasten off.

All sizes:

WINDSONG NECKLACE

Working from left to right along right side of cuff edge, ch 1, rev sc in first 2 sc, ch 2, sk next sc, *rev sc in next 5 sc, ch 2, sk next sc; rep from * across to last 2 sc, rev sc in last 2 sc. Fasten off.

BUTTON BAND: With RS facing, join with sl st in corner sc of Row 1 of right cuff edging, working from left to right, ch 1, rev sc in each sc of left side of cuff edge. Fasten off. Wet or steam block cuffs to finished measurements. Weave in ends. With RS of cuff facing and using sewing needle and thread, sew buttons opposite buttonholes.

Stitch Guide Padding cord (PC): Cut 3 strands of thread to indicated length, hold strands tog and fold in half, work st in indicated st and around the fold of the padding cord threads, working over all 4 strands of pc and in sts or sps as indicated in patt. Chain three picot (ch3p): Ch 3, sl st in last st made. Two double crochet cluster (2dccl): Yo, insert hook in st indicated, yo and pull up lp, yo and draw through 2 lps on hook, yo,


insert hook in same st, yo and pull up lp, yo and draw through 2 lps on hook, yo and draw through all 3 lps on hook. Two treble cluster (2trcl): Yo 2 times, insert hook in st indicated, yo and pull up lp, [yo and draw through 2 lps on hook] 2 times, yo 2 times, insert hook in same st, yo and pull up lp, [yo and draw through 2 lps on hook] 2 times, yo and draw through all 3 lps on hook. Three treble cluster (3trcl): Yo 2 times, insert hook in st, yo and pull up lp, [yo and draw through 2 lps on hook] 2 times, *yo 2 times, insert hook in next st, yo and pull up lp, [yo and draw through 2 lps on hook] 2 times; rep from *, yo and draw through all 4 lps on hook. Four treble cluster (4trcl): Yo 2 times, insert hook in next st, yo and pull up lp, [yo and draw through 2 lps on hook] 2 times, *yo 2 times, insert hook in next st, yo and pull up lp, [yo and draw through 2 lps on hook] 3 times; rep from *, yo and draw through all 4 lps on hook. Romanian point lace cord: Ch 2, sc in 2nd ch from hook, rotate piece away from you (always rotate in the same direction), sc in ch at base of sc just made, rotate away from you until you see 2 lps at base of last sc made, sc in 2 lps, *rotate cord away from you, sc in 2 lps at base of previous sc; rep from * until cord measures indicated length.

6 strands of PC around, 3 sc in same sp, 3 sc in each of next 4 ch-1 sps, 7 sc in next ch 4 sp, 3 sc in each of next 4 ch-1 sps, 3 sc in same ch-sp as first sc, sl st in first sc to join. Adjust PC so inner ring lays flat. Rnd 3: Drop PC for this rnd, ch 1, sc in same sc, ch 1, sk next sc, hdc in next sc, ch 2, sk next sc, dc in next sc, [ch 1, sk next sc, dc in next sc] 4 times, ch 1, sk next sc, hdc in next sc, ch 1, sc in next sc, sl st in next 7 sc, sc in next sc, ch 1, hdc in next sc, [ch 1, sk next sc, dc in next sc] 5 times, ch 2, sk next sc, hdc in next sc, ch 1, sl st in first sc to join. Rnd 4: Ch 1, working over all 6 strands of PC around, sc in same sc, (2 sc, ch3p [see Stitch Guide], sc) in each of next 8 ch-sps, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc on Rnd 2, ch3p, 2 sc in next sc on Rnd 2, *sc in next sc on Rnd 2, ch 9, 2dccl (see Stitch Guide) in 3rd ch from hook, ch3p, ch 3, sl st in ch at base of 2dccl, sl st in next 6 ch, sc in same sc on Rnd 2**, sc in next sc on Rnd 2, ch 11, 2dccl in 3rd ch from hook, ch3p, ch 3, sl st in ch at base of 2dccl, sl st in next 8 ch, sc in same sc on Rnd 2; rep from * to **, 2 sc in next sc on Rnd 2, sc in next sc on Rnd 2, ch3p, sc in same sc on Rnd 2, sc in next sc, (2 sc, ch3p, sc) in each of next 8 ch-sps, sl st in first st to join.

Medallion: INNER RING:

NECKLACE

Using yarn needle, weave in padding cord ends and trim off excess. Using yarn needle, sew tip of pendant tab to the WS of medallion at the base of the first row of tab. With needle and thread, sew bead to base of first row of tab on RS of medallion. Weave in ends. Slide end of necklace through the pendant tab. Center medallion on necklace.

Stitch Key = chain (ch) = slip stitch (sl st) = single crochet (sc) = half double crochet (hdc) = double crochet (dc) = extended double crochet (edc)

With size 10 thread and size 7 hook, ch 4, 2trcl (see Stitch Guide) in 4th ch from hook, ch3p, ch 4, sl st in ch at base of 2trcl, ch 67, work Romanian point lace cord (see Stitch Guide) for 15", ch 69, yo 2 times, insert hook in 4th ch from hook, yo and pull up lp, [yo and draw through 2 lps on

= treble crochet (tr)

= chain 3 picot (ch3p) = padding cord

Medallion

< 3 <2

With size 20 thread and smaller hook, ch 16. Rnd 1: Edc (see Glossary) in 5th ch from hook, ch 1, [sk next ch, tr in next ch] 3 times, ch 1, sk next ch, edc in next ch, ch 1, sk next 2 ch, sl st in last ch to join. Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc around joining sl st and through the fold of the PC, working over all

<4

Cut three 24" pieces of size 10 thread, hold tog and fold in half, set aside for PC (see Stitch Guide).

FINISHING

TAB: Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as tr), 4 tr in same sc, turn. Row 2: Ch 3, tr in same tr, tr in next 3 tr, 2 tr in next tr, turn. Row 3: Ch 2, tr in next tr, 3trcl (see Stitch Guide), leave rem st unworked, turn. Row 4: Ch 2, 4trcl (see Stitch Guide). Fasten off, leaving a 6" tail.

Pattern

hook] 2 times, *yo 2 times, insert hook in same st, yo and pull up lp, [yo and draw through 2 lps on hook] 2 times; rep from *, yo and draw through all 4 lps on hook, ch3p. Fasten off.

<1

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Plaiter Scarf by Brenda K. B. Anderson. An unusual stitch pattern worked in a chubby yarn makes for a thick, warm scarf with nice drape. A variegated yarn creates a beautiful printlike appearanceâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;a solid color would highlight the braided look of the stitch pattern. Yarn: Lornaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Laces Cloudgate. Page 110.

Polar vortex? No worries.

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GF*BF Mitts by Suzanne Hirth. These mitts go together like peanut butter and jelly, with tweaks at the cuffs for differentiation. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll stay warm while looking cool. Yarn (both mitts): Madelinetosh Tosh Sock. Page 113.

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Isosceles Cowl by Brenda K. B. Anderson. This asymmetrical neck warmer is made from a long, folded triangle-shaped piece, wrapped around the neck and fastened with a big button. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s supersimple and quick to make, with a lot of visual impact. Yarn: Berroco Brio. Page 110.

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Baskerville Cowl by Jill Wright. Clever crocheted colorplay yields a fabric that looks woven. This stylish cowl can be worn in a range of optionsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; scrunched up at the neck, over your head, or in a tube around your shoulders. Yarn: Universal Yarn Little Bird. Page 114.

get the

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op

co m

KIT Baskerville Cowl

e. .cro m t c he

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Wriggle Wrap by Edie Eckman. A giant button harnesses this ample wrap however you want to style it. The on-trend chevron pattern is open to a range of color options. Yarn: Stonehedge Fiber Mill Shepherdâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Wool Worsted. Page 112.

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accessories. Crochet 23 fashion-forward accessories created by up-and-coming designers with It Girl Crochet. It Girl Crochet turns the cutest accessories seen in boutiques into crochet patterns and stitch diagrams. Crochet trendy bags, scarves, belts, and hats with as little as one skein of yarn! Plus, improve your technique with the glam designs using basic crochet as well as more sophisticated techniques such as Tunisian, beading, applique, and motifs. Sharon Zientara 128 Pages, $22.99 ISBN 13: 9781620330968

Order online at InterweaveStore.com.


Layers

rows below, enclosing the ch-3 sp from previous row within your sts. Enclosed ch-3 sps are difficult to see on future rows, since they are up against the sts you are working into. Be sure to separate the ch-3 sp from the row below it to find the correct sp for the hook.

Pattern SCARF

PLAITER SCARF Brenda K. B. Anderson

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4 Lorna’s Laces Cloudgate

Getting Started Finished Size 68" long and 5" wide. Yarn Lorna’s Laces Cloudgate (90% superwash merino, 10% nylon; 120 yd [110 m]/3½ oz [100 g]; ): #27 black purl; 3 skeins. Hook Size K/101⁄2 (6.5 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions St markers (m); yarn needle; piece of cardboard that measures 51⁄2" wide (to make fringe). Gauge 19 sts and 8 rows = 4" square in patt.

Notes Scarf is worked widthwise in turned rows; tch counts as hdc. First and last rows of scarf use shorter sts to avoid large gaps bet sts at edges. When directed to work around ch-3 sp from previous row, work sts in st or sp 2

Edging for fringe:

= half double crochet (hdc)

Ch 1, [sc in next 2 sts, sk next st] 6 times, sc in top of tch—13 sc. Fasten off. Join yarn at opposite edge of scarf and work same edging for fringe across foundation ch.

= double crochet (dc)

Fasten off. Weave in ends. Block.

Stitch Key = chain (ch)

FINISHING

last row 4 3 2 1

6-st rep

110 Crochetscene

Wrap yarn loosely around cardboard rectangle 26 times, cut lps of yarn to create 26 pieces of fringe. Rep so you have 52 pieces of yarn that measure about 11" long. Holding 2 pieces of fringe at a time, fold yarn in half to find center, insert hook through first sc and pull yarn through st just far enough so that you can get two fingers through. Reach through lp, grab the 4 ends of yarn and pull through lp. Pull tightly to secure fringe. Rep for each sc along edging. Trim fringe evenly to about 31⁄2" long.

ISOSCELES COWL Brenda K. B. Anderson

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4 Berroco Brio

Getting Started Finished Size 21" circumference and 9" tall (with collar folded). Yarn Berroco Brio (49% wool, 48% acrylic, 3% other; 109 yd [100 m]/3½ oz [100 g]; ): #9466 soar, 2 balls. Hook Size L/11 (8 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions St markers (m); yarn needle; pre-stiffened felt in matching color; one 2" button; 1 large sew-on snap; sewing needle and matching thread. Gauge 10 sts and 51⁄2 rows = 4" in hdc blo.

Notes

Scarf Pattern rep for patt

Ch 21. Row 1: Working in bottom lp of ch, hdc in 5th ch from hook (skipped ch counts as hdc), ch 3, sk next ch, hdc in next ch, [ch 1, sk next 3 ch, hdc in next ch, ch 3, sk next ch, hdc in next ch] 2 times, sk next ch, hdc in last ch, turn—8 hdc, 3 ch-3 sps, 2 ch-1 sps. Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as hdc throughout), working around ch-3 sp of previous row (see Notes), (dc, ch 3, dc) in skipped foundation ch bet next 2 hdc, [ch 1, working around next ch-3 sp of previous row, (dc, ch 3, dc) in skipped foundation ch bet next 2 hdc] 2 times, hdc in top of tch, turn. Row 3: Ch 2, working around ch-3 sp of previous row, (dc, ch 3, dc) in ch-3 sp bet next 2 hdc of Row 1 (see Notes), [ch 1, working around ch-3 sp of previous row, (dc, ch 3, dc) in ch-3 sp bet next 2 hdc of Row 1] 2 times, hdc in top of tch, turn. Row 4: Ch 2, working around ch-3 sp of previous row, (dc, ch 3, dc) in ch-3 sp bet next 2 dc 2 rows below, [ch 1, working around ch-3 sp of previous row, (dc, ch 3, dc) in ch-3 sp bet next 2 dc 2 rows below] 2 times, hdc in top of tch, turn. Rep Row 4 until scarf measures about 661⁄2". Last Row: Ch 2, working around ch-3 sp of previous row, (hdc, ch 3, hdc) in ch-3 sp bet next 2 dc 2 rows below, [ch 1, working around ch-3 sp of previous row, (hdc, ch 3, hdc) in ch-3 sp bet next 2 dc 2 rows below] 2 times, hdc in top of tch, turn. Do not fasten off.

Fringe:

2015

Cowl is worked lengthwise in turned rows. Tch do not count as sts. Sample shown was made using small pieces of felt to reinforce button and snap. For simpler finishing, omit buttonhole on Row 3 and sew cowl ends tog, sewing button through both layers of fabric. If you choose to work buttonhole option, check to make sure button fits through buttonhole after working Row 4.


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    25 DESIGNS using beads, thread, charms, ribbon, cord and more

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Layers

For a smaller cowl, work fewer rows.

Stitch Guide Gauge swatch:

to work into last row, work sc in each hdc across, do not join. Rnd 2: Ch 1, sl st (loosely) in each sc around. Fasten off.

Ch 12. Row 1: (RS) Hdc in 3rd ch from hook (skipped ch do not count as st) and in each ch across, turn—10 hdc. Row 2: Ch 2 (tch does not count as st), hdc blo in each hdc across. Rep Row 2 four times. Piece measures about 4" square (excluding tch and foundation ch).

Yarn Stonehedge Fiber Mill Shepherd’s Wool Worsted (100% worsted spun fine wool; 250 yd [228 m]/4 oz [113 g]; ): berries (A), beaches (B), lemon yellow (C), 3 skeins each. Hook Size I/9 (5.5 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions Yarn needle; one large decorative button; one 3⁄4" button. Gauge 12 sts = 4" in chevron crunch patt.

Notes Work in 1-row stripes in color sequence A, B, and C throughout.

Stitch Guide Hdc cluster (hdc-cl): [Yo, insert hook in st and pull up lp] 2 times in same st, yo and draw through all 5 lps on hook.

FINISHING Weave in ends. Block to measurements. Thread needle with a length of matching thread. Cut out an oval felt piece that measures approx. 4" long by 2" wide. Fold oval in half crosswise and cut piece in half along folding line. With WS of Row 1 facing and sewing needle threaded with matching thread, sew half oval to end of cowl bet Row 1 and buttonhole. Sew male end of snap to felt. With RS of Row 33 facing, sew half oval to end of cowl on Row 33, 11" across from first hdc (7" from last hdc). Sew female end of snap to felt. Using photo as a guide and with RS facing, sew button to Row 33, 10" across from first hdc (8" from last hdc).

Pattern COWL Ch 10. Row 1: (RS) Hdc in 3rd ch from hook (skipped ch do not count as st) and in bottom ridge lp of each ch across, turn—8 hdc. Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count as st throughout), hdc blo in each hdc to last hdc, 2 hdc blo in last hdc, turn—9 hdc. Row 3 (buttonhole row): Ch 2, hdc blo in next 4 hdc, ch 2, sk next 2 hdc, (buttonhole), hdc blo in next 2 hdc, 2 hdc blo in last hdc, turn—8 hdc and 1 ch-2 sp. Row 4: Ch 2, hdc blo in next 4 hdc, 2 hdc in ch-2 sp, hdc blo to last hdc, 2 hdc blo in last hdc, turn—11 hdc. Rows 5–33: Ch 2, hdc blo in each hdc to last hdc, 2 hdc blo in last hdc—40 hdc. Do not fasten off.

Edging: Divide each long edge (row-ends) into 4 sections using st markers. With RS facing, rotate cowl to work in row-ends. Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 1, work 13 sc evenly across each of the 4 sections, rotate to work in foundation ch, work sc in each ch across, rotate to work in row-ends, work 13 sc evenly across each of 4 sections, rotate 112 Crochetscene

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WRIGGLE WRAP Edie Eckman

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Stonehedge Fiber Mill Shepherd’s Wool Worsted

Getting Started Finished Size 12" wide and about 60" long.

Chevron crunch st (multiple of 8 sts + 1): Row 1: (RS) Working in bottom ridge lp of foundation ch, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 3 ch, hdc-cl (see above) in next 4 ch, *sc in next 4 ch, hdc-cl in next 4 ch; rep from * across, changing to next color on last st, turn. Row 2: Ch 1, *sc in next 4 cl, hdc-cl in next 4 ch; rep from * across, changing to next color on last st, turn. Rep Row 2 for patt.

Pattern WRAP With A, ch 169 loosely. Rows 1–10: Working in 1-row stripes of A, B, and C, work even in chevron crunch st (see Stitch Guide)—168 sts. Row 11 (inc): (RS) With B, ch 1, sc in next 4 cl, hdc-cl in next 4 sc, *2 sc in next cl, sc in next 3 cl, hdc in next 4 sc; rep from * to last 8 sts, sc in next 4 cl, hdc-cl in last 4 sc, changing to next color on last st, turn—187 sts. Next and all foll rows: Ch 1, work sc in each hdc and work hdc-cl in each sc across, changing to next color on last st, turn.


Work even until piece measures about 12" from beg, ending with color A on a RS row. Do not fasten off. With RS facing and working along short edge, sc evenly across to corner. Fasten off. With RS facing, join A at opposite corner and sc evenly across other short edge to corner. Fasten off.

FINISHING Weave in ends. Block. Sew small button to large decorative button, creating a shank button (neck between the two buttons). Button smaller button through doubled layer of wrap as desired.

Pattern MITT (MAKE 2) With smaller hook, ch 35. Row 1: Pull up lp in 2nd ch from hook and in and each ch across—35 lps on hook; RetP (see Glossary). Row 2: Fwp: Tps (see Glossary) in next 4 sts, *yo, tss2tog (see Glossary); rep from * 4 times, tss (see Glossary) in next 17 sts, tks (see Glossary) in next 3 sts—35 lps on hook; RetP. Row 3: Fwp: Tps in next 4 sts, *tfs (see Stitch Guide) in yo sp, tss in next st; rep from * 4 times, tss in next 17 sts, tks in next 3 sts—35 lps on hook; RetP. Rep Rows 2–3 fourteen (sixteen, eighteen) times, then rep Row 2 once more. With larger hook, work last Fwp: Insert hook in sts as if working next row in patt (Row 3), sl st across. Do not fasten off. Remove hook, leaving last lp live.

Seam and thumb opening:

GF MITTS Suzanne Hirth

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4 Madelinetosh Tosh Sock

Getting Started Finished Size 61⁄2 (7, 71⁄2)" hand circumference. Sample shown measures 7".

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superwash merino, 395 yd [361 m]/31⁄2 oz [100 g]; ): betine, 1 skein. Hook Size F/5 (3.75 mm) Tunisian hook and G/6 (4 mm) Tunisian hook. Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions Yarn needle. Gauge 26 sts and 5 rows = 4" in tss on smaller hook.

Shell edging:

Notes

Working in row-ends, sc in first row, *sk next row, sh (see Stitch Guide) in next row, sk next row, sc in next row; rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off.

FINISHING

superwash merino, 395 yd [361 m]/3½ oz [100 g]; ): curiosity, 1 skein. Hook Size F/5 (3.75 mm) Tunisian hook and G/6 (4 mm) Tunisian hook. Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions Yarn needle. Gauge 26 sts and 5 rows = 4" in tss on smaller hook.

Rnd 1: With larger hook, join yarn with sl st to base of thumb opening. Working in blo, work 20 sc evenly around, sl st in first sc to join. Rnd 2: Working in blo, sl st in each sc around, sl st in first sl st to join. Weave in ends.

To avoid having several ends to weave in, mitts are worked flat continuously, from beg of foundation to the join at the end of shell edge, and seamed.

Suzanne Hirth

With WS facing and live lp in upper-right corner, fold work so that WS are tog and last Fwp edge is behind foundation row edge and back lps of these rows are adjacent. Join right corners by inserting larger hook through blo of foundation ch, pick up live lp and draw through. Working in blo of foundation ch and last Fwp row, sl st seam (see Glossary) next 9 sts, working in blo of foundation ch only, sl st seam loosely in next 10 sts, sk next 10 sts on Fwp edge, working in blo of foundation ch and last Fwp row, sl st in each st across. Rotate work so that cuff opening is up.

Yarn Madelinetosh Tosh Sock (100%

Notes

BF MITTS

Thumb opening edging:

Madelinetosh Tosh Sock

Getting Started Finished Size 71⁄2 (81⁄2, 91⁄2)" hand circumference. Sample shown measures 81⁄2".

Yarn Madelinetosh Tosh Sock (100%

To avoid having several ends to weave in, the mitts are worked flat continuously, from beg of foundation to the join at the end of sc edge, and seamed.

Stitch Guide Tunisian crossed st (tcs): Sk one vertical bar, tss in next vertical bar, tss in skipped vertical bar.

Pattern MITT (MAKE 2) With smaller hook, ch 38. Row 1: Pull up lp in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across—38 lps on hook; RetP (see Glossary).

Stitch Guide Tunisian full stitch (tfs): Insert hook from front to back in indicated sp, yo and pull up a lp. Shell (sh): 5 dc in st indicated.

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Layers

Row 2: Tks (see Glossary) in next 4 sts, tcs (see Stitch Guide) in next 5 sts, tss (see Glossary) in next 20 sts, tks in next 3 sts—38 lps on hook; RetP. Rep Row 2 thirty-seven (forty-two, fortyseven) times. With larger hook, work last Fwp: Insert hook in sts as if working next row in patt, sl st across. Do not fasten off. Remove hook, leaving last lp live. Seam and thumb opening: With WS facing and live lp in upper-right corner, fold work so that WS are tog and the last Fwp edge is behind foundation row edge and back lps of these rows are adjacent. Join right corners by inserting larger hook through blo of foundation ch, picking up live lp and drawing through. Working in blo of foundation ch and last Fwp row, sl st seam (see Glossary) next 9 sts, working in blo of foundation ch only, sl st loosely in next 10 sts, sk next 12 sts on Fwp edge, working in blo of foundation ch and last Fwp row, sl st seam in each st across. Turn work so that cuff opening is up.

Yarn Universal Yarn Little Bird (100% acrylic, 344 yd [314 m]/3½ oz [100 g]; ): #105 wee violet (A), #106 go go coral (B), 1 skein each. Hook Size H/8 (5 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions St marker (m); yarn needle. Gauge 4 reps = 41⁄4" in double mesh patt.

Edging:

Row 1A: (RS) With A, sk 8 ch, sk and mark next ch, sk 1 more ch (10 ch skipped, counts as 4 foundation ch, 1 dc, 3 ch), dc in 11th ch from hook, *ch 3, sk 3 foundation ch, dc in next ch; rep from * to end, do not turn. With RS facing, join B with sl st in marked st. Row 1B: (RS) Ch 6 (counts as 1 dc and 3 ch), working behind previous color A row, dc in same st as joining sl st, *sk 3 foundation ch (including the one with a color A st in it), working in front of previous color A row, dc in next ch, ch 3, working behind previous color A row, dc in same st as last dc; rep from * to last 2 foundation ch, sk last 2 foundation ch, turn. Note: From this point forward, sts are always worked into same-color sts. So, you will never work a color A st into a color B st. Row 2A: (WS) With A, ch 6 (counts as 1 dc and 3 ch), *dc in next dc, ch 3; rep from * to end, dc in last sp, do not turn. Row 2B: (WS) With B, ch 6 (counts as 1 dc and 3 ch), working behind previous color A row, dc in first ch-3 sp, *working in front of previous color A row, dc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, working behind previous color A row, dc in same ch-3

FINISHING Thumb opening edging: Rnd 1: With larger hook, join yarn with sl st to base of thumb opening. Working in blo, work 24 sc evenly around, sl st in first sc to join. Rnd 2: Working in blo, sl st in each sc around, sl st in first sl st to join. Weave in ends.

BASKERVILLE COWL Jill Wright

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Cowl is worked in 2 interlaced mesh patts. This is achieved by working 1 row in each color on RS, then 1 row in each color on WS. The color to be used for each row is indicated immediately after the row number. When changing colors, do not cut yarn. Instead, place a removable st marker in the last lp to keep it from raveling. Replace hook in that lp when it’s time to work with that color again.

Double mesh patt (multiple of 4 sts + 3, minimum 15):

Stitch Key = slip stitch (sl st) = chain (ch)

Pattern COWL With A, ch 79. Work in double mesh patt (see Stitch Guide) until piece measures 36", ending after a WS color B row.

Join:

Stitch Guide

You may sew tog the top and bottom edges of cowl, or work the foll 2 joining rows for an invisible seam: Join Row A: (RS) With A, ch 3, sl st in first 3 skipped foundation ch (including the one with a color B st in it), *dc in next dc on current row, sl st in next 3 skipped foundation sts; rep from * to end, dc in last sp, sl st in last foundation ch. Fasten off. Join Row B: (RS) With B, ch 4 (counts as 1 dc and 1 ch), sl st in first foundation ch with a color B st in it, ch 1, remove hook from lp being careful not to ravel it, push lp to back of work, replace hook in lp, bring a few inches of attached yarn to the back with it, dc in first ch-3 sp on current row, remove hook from lp, push lp to front of work bringing any excess yarn back with it, replace hook in lp, *dc in next ch-3 sp on current row, ch 1, sl st in next foundation ch with a color B st in it, ch 1, remove hook, push lp to back of work, replace hook in lp, bring a few inches of attached yarn to the back with it, dc in same ch-3 sp as last dc worked on current row, remove hook, push lp to front of work bringing any excess yarn back with it, replace hook in lp; rep from * to end, sl st in last foundation ch. Fasten off.

FINISHING Weave in ends.

Double Mesh Pattern 2B repeat

Working in row-ends, sc around, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off.

Notes

sp as last dc; rep from * to end, turn. Rep Rows 2A and 2B only for double mesh patt.

2A

= double crochet (dc) 1A

Universal Yarn Little Bird

1B

Getting Started Finished Size 36" circumference and 19" wide. 114 Crochetscene

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4-st rep


Satisfy your historical curiosities of knitting, crochet and needlework with this deluxe collection! Once a popular Victorian magazine of knit, crochet, patchwork, and other “useful articles” involving needlework, Weldon’s began as a paper pattern company and became one of the most recognized needlework publishers in England. Now available as an extravagant boxed set, Weldon’s Practical Needlework: Deluxe Edition contains the first six volumes of the series. Each hardcover volume is comprised of 12 monthly issues. There are roughly 16 categories and over 2,000 projects included in this collection. In addition to knit and crochet, each volume contains a variety of decorative needlework: crewel, appliqué, cross-stitch, macramé, smocking, bead netting, and other lesser-known techniques. This box set serves as a historical document and a collector’s item. Open a window to another time and place with Weldon’s Practical Needlework: Deluxe Edition as you explore fashion, domestic life, and the history of needlework.

Hardcover boxed set with cloth case 912 Pages, $129.99 ISBN 13: 9781620337417

This boxed set makes a perfect gift for anyone interested in historical needlework and is the perfect addition to your library! Order online at www. bit.ly/weldonspractical-needlework-deluxe-edition


Project Designers | our awesome contributors

SHELBY ALLAHO enjoys designing unique accessories. She promotes the art of crochet on her blog and through social media. To read more about her adventures in crochet, visit www.stitch-story.com. BRENDA K. B. ANDERSON makes mascots during the day. She cooks, crochets, and belly dances at night. She lives in a little house in St. Paul, Minnesota, with her awesome husband and their hairy baby, Mr. Kittypants. LORI CARLSON lives with her husband in North Carolina. In addition to being a thread crochet designer, she is a dedicated feline maintenance worker to five cats, an accidental amateur lepidopterist, and an intentionally mediocre horticulturist. DORIS CHAN is a crochet designer and author. When she is allowed to play with colors (which is not often), the results are very colorful. Catch up with her at www.dorischancrochet.com and see her independent designs exclusively at DesigningVashti.com. LILY CHIN’S family history was just on display at the New York Historical Society’s exhibit on Chinese immigration. It was shown as a graphic novel and is now traveling to Portland, Oregon; Seattle; and Sacramento with plans to be overseas in China. EDIE ECKMAN is the author of several crochet books, including The Crochet Answer Book (Storey). She lives near Milepost Zero of the Blue Ridge Parkway but teaches all over the country—and the world, if you count online teaching. You can find her online at www.edieeckman.com. APRIL GARWOOD lives in Oklahoma with her husband and four daughters. She designs in crochet and knit, plays with her spinning wheel, bakes sourdough bread, and homeschools her children. Find out more about her work at www.bananamoonstudio.com. JILL HANRATTY lives, designs, crochets, and sews in New Jersey.

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Network Purse, Page 24.

SUZANNE HIRTH is a crochet and knit instructor and sales consultant at Knitorious in St. Louis, Missouri. She loves to promote crochet in her community. VICKIE HOWELL is the International Spokesperson for Yarnspirations.com, Yarn Arts Ambassador for Clover Needles, Inc., and author of Finger Knitting Fun. For more info, go to www.vickiehowell.com. ALLA KOVAL enjoys knitting and crocheting at her bright studio in Seattle with her best helper—her adorable tiny Chihuahua, Pixie—on her lap. DANIELA NII seeks new challenges with every project and uses a diverse range of techniques and media to produce designs that highlight simplicity and elegance. The founder of www.localfibers.com, she blogs at www.nikkis-studio.com.


JENNIFER RAYMOND is a knit and crochet designer who teaches up and down the East Coast. Her designs have appeared in several publications, including PieceWork, Creative Knitting, Interweave Crochet, and Knitty.

NATASHA ROBARGE experiments with different techniques to achieve a modern interpretation of traditional stitchery. Find her patterns on www.ravelry.com and www.crochetme.com. JENNIFER E. RYAN loves to work Celtic knots into her crochet designs. She also loves to sing, dance, spend time outdoors, photograph wildlife, and go for bike rides. You can find her online at www.celticknotcrochet.blogspot.com.

MARCY SMITH loves sitting down with a pile of yarn, a handful of tools, and just the barest glimmer of an idea of where it might all lead. NICOLETTA TRONCI is an Italian crochet designer working on beautiful Lake Como, where she finds serenity and inspiration. She loves roomy tote bags and slouchy purses. Her colorful designs combine traditional stitches with unusual yarns and fanciful embroidery patterns. KATHRYN WHITE has a passion for thread and lace crochet. Her goal is to design fine crochet pieces that have a place in today’s world. “Designing for me is a dance between my soul and my hook,” she says. See more of her work at www.crochetnbeads.com. JILL WRIGHT learned to crochet when she was eight years old. Since then, Jill’s love for crochet has increased exponentially. You can find her online at www.woolcrafting.com.

get the

KIT

Tribbles Vests sh

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SUE PEREZ lives in Wisconsin. In winter she eats and crochets, and in summer she cycles and takes photos of wildflowers. She blogs all year long at www.mrsmicawber.blogspot.com.

e. .cro m t e ch

Tribbles Vests, Page 48-49.

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How to Crochet | the basics

Crochet Basics Welcome! If you’re already hip to crochet, you can probably skip this section and go straight to the glossary stitches on page 124. If you’re new to crochet, these step-by-step directions for the basic stitches will get you going in no time! Grab your hook and yarn, and let’s get going.

Slipknot



Start your work with a slipknot, which will secure your beginning chain. Place the yarn over the hook . Yarn over (yo) . Pull the second loop (lp) through the first lp, then pull tight .





Chain (ch) The chain is worked the same way as the slipknot, except you don’t pull it tight at the end. To work several chains, tension the yarn by pulling it above the hook over your index finger. With your thumb and middle finger, hold the end of the chain strip to keep it taut . Then, instead of wrapping the yarn over the hook, “pluck” the yarn through the lp on the hook . Although this method takes some practice, it will result in more even chains. First row of stitches: where to put the hook Here is what the chain looks like: You can work: Under one loop (blo)  > This method sometimes results in a gap between the chain and stitch. However, it’s useful when you’re making a project that calls for working across the other side of the foundation chain. Under two loops (blo + bottom ridge loop)  >This method can cause a loopy edge. However, it works well if you’re adding an edging later or plan to seam that edge. Under the bottom ridge loop  > This method offers a tidy way to work, because it leaves a nice “v” edge.

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back loop (blo)



bottom ridge loop

front loop (flo)








Single crochet (sc)

Insert hook into chain or stitch . Yarn over and pull loop through st; you have two loops on the hook . Yarn over and pull loop through both loops.  Done !

Treble stitch (tr) Yarn over two times before inserting hook. Finish as for double crochet.

Double treble (dtr)





Yarn over three times before inserting hook. Finish as for double crochet.

Half double crochet stitch (hdc) Half double crochet makes a stitch that’s taller than a sc and shorter than a dc. Yarn over and insert hook in stitch and pull up a loop, as with a double crochet . Then, yarn over and pull through all three loops on the hook .

Double crochet (dc) Yarn over  and insert hook into chain or stitch.

Yarn over and pull loop through stitch; you have three loops on the hook . Yarn over and pull loop through two loops . Yarn over and pull through two loops again. Done ! Once you learn double crochet, you can make your stitches taller and taller by simply adding a yarn over before inserting the hook. Then, pull through two loops at a time until you have one loop left on the hook.













Slip stitch (sl st) The slip stitch is the shortest of the stitches. It’s often used to “sneak” over a few stitches when a pattern calls for making the next row shorter, as with an armhole. (You can make a project entirely in slip stitches, but that’s a technique for another day.) To work a slip stitch, insert the hook under the chain or stitch and yarn over as for a single crochet . Then pull the loop through the stitch and through the loop on the hook. Presto flatto .



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How to Crochet | the basics

Foundation single crochet stitch (fsc)

Motifs

The foundation single crochet stitch is a little fancy. It’s a way of working your chain and first row at the same time. It makes a slightly stretchy foundation row, which is great for a garment. Chain 2. Insert hook in first chain. Yarn over and pull through the stitch and one loop . Yarn over and pull through two loops . For the second foundation single crochet, insert hook under two loops at base of previous stitch . Yarn over and pull through one loop . Yarn over and pull through two loops . Continue working this way until you have the number of stitches called for in the first row (this number will be fewer than the number of chains called for). You can use this foundation stitch to work foundation half double crochet and foundation double crochet as well.

Motifs worked in the round call for a different sort of start than the flat chain. There are two main ways to work this beginning.



Adjustable ring You use the adjustable ring when you want the center of a circle to be as small as possible. Wrap the yarn over your finger, then slide it off, keeping the loop intact . Insert the hook into the loop and chain 1 to secure . Work stitch as directed, working around yarn loop; here, we’re working single crochet . Join to the first stitch with a slip stitch. Pull the tail to tighten .











Chain loop center





This center can’t be tightened. It provides a stable base for the motif. Crochet the number of chains indicated . Join to the first chain with a slip stitch . Insert hook in circle and chain 1 . Continue working as indicated in pattern .











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Seaming

Mattress-stitch seam

For the most seemly seams, use one of these methods:

Mattress stitch is excellent for joining garment pieces. Lay garment pieces side by side, RS up. Cut a length of yarn as long as your arm and thread onto tapestry needle. To secure the end, insert the needle from the top of right side to the back and from the back of left side to the top . Repeat to create a tiny stitch. Working ½ stitch in from edge, insert needle into right side, from front to back, and push needle from back to front to emerge about ½ inch away . Insert needle into left side parallel to the point where needle emerged on right side, from front to back, and push needle from back to front about ½ inch away . Continue alternating right and left sides, weaving the seaming yarn from side to side  and . After about six stitches, pull the end of the seaming yarn to draw stitches taut, but not so tight that they pucker the seam. The seaming yarn disappears ! Continue sewing and occasionally pulling taut the seaming yarn until pieces are joined.

Slip-stitch seam The slip-stitch seam is a terrific go-to seaming method that works well for all sorts of projects because it’s sturdy. It’s not the best choice for lacy garments. Hold project pieces with right sides (RS) together, with the edges meeting. Secure the end of the seaming yarn. Holding the yarn to the back and the hook to the front, insert hook through both layers of fabric, pull up loop, pull both ends through loop . Insert hook 1 to 2 stitches to the left of the hook, through both layers. Yarn over, pull up loop from back and through loop on hook. Continue slip stitching down the side until pieces are connected .





Whipstitch seam The whipstitch seam is good for amigurumi and similar projects. However, it’s not the best choice for garments. Place pieces to be joined with right sides together. Cut a length of yarn as long as your arm, and thread it onto tapestry needle. Insert needle from back to front through both fabric edges . To secure end, insert needle at same spot to create a small stitch . Insert needle 1 to 2 stitches up, from back to front. Pull gently to tighten to avoid puckering the seam . Continue sewing up the sides of the two pieces.

















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How to Crochet | the basics

Working into a stitch

Surface crochet

There are three ways to insert your hook into a stitch: under both loops, under the back loop only (blo), and under the front loop only (flo). Under both loops  Back loop only  Front loop only  *You can also work around the post of a stitch rather than into the top to create textured stitches. You’ll find examples of these post stitches in our glossary.

Surface crochet lets you create a design on the top of the fabric. Essentially, you’re working a slip stitch in the middle of the fabric. Hold yarn to back of fabric . Insert hook from front and pull up a loop . Insert hook from front to back about one stitch over. Yarn over and pull through yarn from back  and through loop on hook . Continue in this way until your design is complete.













 Weaving in ends Number one rookie tip: leave your tails at least six inches long! Too-short tails lead to little yarn ends poking around your project. Six inches will give you enough length to thread the yarn onto a needle and work it through some stitches. For beginning tails, you can hold the yarn end close to the top of the stitches and work over them. For end tails, you’ll need to weave the tails into the fabric. Thread yarn tail onto needle. Insert needle through the middle of the stitches . Check both sides to ensure that you’re working through the stitches and not leaving a long bit on the opposite side. Pull needle through . Insert the needle one thread over, under the same stitches. Pull the needle through.

Concentration Levels At the top of each pattern, you’ll see one to four dots. This indicates the concentration level of the project. We use concentration levels because it better conveys the attention the projects requires. For instance, a project using mostly chain stitch may be “easy,” but if you’re working it in thread, it requires more concentration. Here’s a description of those concentration levels.

1

2

3

4

Little concentration required.

Straightforward stitching means your hands can work on autopilot.

1

2

3

4

Some concentration required.

Easily memorized stitch patterns and minimalshaping might require some focus and counting.

1

2

3

4

Fair amount of focus required.

Involved stitch patterns, shaping, or assembly require fairly constant concentration.

1 

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2

3

4

Extreme focus required.

Unusual techniques or complex stitch patterns and shaping require constant focus.


Gauge

Wet blocking

Gauge is the ratio of stitches and rows to a given measurement, usually 4 inches square. At the top of each pattern, you’ll see the gauge given for that project. Nobody’s gauge is quite like yours; it’s unique to you and the way you hold your hook and tension your yarn. It’s a reflection, too, of your mood and crochet comfort level. The gauge given in the pattern is a reflection of the designer’s tension and crochet style. The goal is to get these two gauges as close as possible. Matching the gauge given for a project is especially important when you’re making a garment; it’s less important when you’re making an accessory or homedecoration project. To measure your unique gauge, crochet a swatch in the stitch pattern designated for the project. The swatch should measure at least 4½ inches square, to allow for any curling or wonkiness at the swatch edges. Measure 4 inches side to side and top to bottom of the swatch, centering the 4-inch portion so that you’re away from the edges. Now count the number of stitches and the number of rows within that 4-inch square. Compare your numbers to the numbers given for the gauge in the project. If you have more stitches than the gauge given, your tension is tighter than the designer’s, and you should try a larger hook. If you have fewer stitches than the gauge given, your tension is looser than the designer’s, and you should try a smaller hook.

Wet blocking is absolutely necessary for lace projects and may be necessary for garments. You’ll need: a clean bin (Note: If you’re using a sink, be sure to wash it first! Facial cleansers and moisturizers can cling to the sink and damage the yarn.) tepid water thick towels rust-proof pins blocking board or playmat (Note: If you don’t have a mat, you can use a thick towel as a base, but be aware that the pins won’t hold as securely.) a no-rinse wash (Note: Although this wash is optional, it’s desirable for fabric that may have seen some travels while you were crocheting it.) Submerge the project in the water and let sit at least 15 minutes, so all the fibers are saturated. Then, lift the project out; do not wring the fabric! Place on a thick towel. Fold the towel over and squeeze gently to remove excess water. Place blocking board in a place where neither kitties nor kiddies will disturb it. Pin project to blocking board to desired dimensions and let dry. Lace will open up dramatically, so you can admire your work while it dries. For more details on blocking shawls, see crochetme.com.

Steam blocking Steam blocking works well when you’re primarily just smoothing out the stitchwork. You’ll need: an ironing board or similar hard surface (the floor or a table works in a pinch) a thick towel a steam iron

Blocking Blocking is the magic that brings crochet projects to life. In the course of crocheting, the fabric can become lumpy. Blocking not only smooths out the stitches, but also makes the fabric pliable so you can shape it to size. There are two basic types of blocking: steam blocking and wet blocking. The method you use depends on the type of project.

rust-proof pins Lay the towel down and place your project on top. Hold the iron about an inch above the fabric (do not touch the iron to the crochet) and blast it with steam. Move across the fabric, blasting steam until you’ve covered the surface, paying particular attention to the edges. Now, pin the project at the edges to the desired measurements and let dry. Done!

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How to Crochet | glossary

Adjustable ring

Foundation Single Crochet (fsc)

Place slipknot on hook, leaving a 4" tail. Wrap tail around fingers to form ring. Work stitches of first round into ring. At end of first round, pull tail to tighten ring.

Start with a slipknot on hook, chain 2 (Figure 1), insert hook in 2nd chain from hook, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over and draw through 1 loop (the “chain,” Figure 2), yarn over and draw through 2 loops (the single crochet), 1 sc with its own ch st (shaded) at the bottom (Figure 3), *insert hook under 2 loops of the “ch” st (shaded) of last st (Figure 4) and pull up loop, yarn over and draw through 1 loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops; repeat from * for length of foundation (Figure 5).

Back Post Double Crochet (BPdc) Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of corresponding stitch below, yarn over and pull up loop, [yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook] 2 times—1 BPdc completed.

Double Crochet Two Together (dc2tog) [Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops] 2 times, yarn over and draw through all loops on hook—1 stitch decreased.

Figure 3

Figure 2

Figure 1

Figure 4

Figure 5

Double Crochet Three Together (dc3tog) [Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops] 3 times (4 loops on hook), yarn over and draw through all loops on hook—2 stitches decreased.

Front Post Single Crochet (FPsc) Insert hook from front to back to front around post of corresponding stitch below, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over and draw through both loops on hook.

Double Crochet Four Together (dc4tog) [Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops] 4 times, yarn over and draw through all loops on hook—3 stitches decreased.

Double Crochet Five Together (dc5tog) [Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops] 5 times, yarn over, draw through all loops on hook—4 stitches decreased.

Double Treble Crochet (dtr) Yarn over 3 times, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up loop (5 loops on hook), [yarn over and draw through 2 loops] 4 times—1 dtr completed.

Extended Single Crochet (esc) Insert hook in next stitch or chain, yarn over and pull up loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over and draw through 1 loop (1 chain made), yarn over and pull through 2 loops—1 esc completed.

Extended Double Crochet (edc) Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch or chain, yarn over and pull up loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and draw through 1 loop (1 chain made), [yarn over and draw through 2 loops] 2 times—1 edc completed.

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Front Post Double Crochet (FPdc) Yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front around post of corresponding stitch below, yarn over and pull up loop, [yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook] 2 times—1 FPdc completed.

Mattress Stitch With RS facing, use threaded Figure 1 needle to *bring Figure 2 the needle through the center of the first stitch or post on one piece, then through the center of the corresponding stitch or post of the other piece; repeat from * to end of seam.

Reverse Single Crochet (rev sc) Working from left to right, insert crochet hook in an edge stitch, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over and draw through both loops on hook (starting single crochet), *insert hook in next stitch to right (Figure 1), yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over (Figure 2) and draw through both loops on hook (Figure 3); repeat from *.

Figure 1

Figure 2

Figure 3


How to Crochet | glossary

Single Crochet Two Together (sc2tog)

Tunisian Simple Stitch (tss)

Insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up loop (2 loops on hook), insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook—1 stitch decreased.

Tss forward pass (FwP): *With yarn in back, insert hook

Slip-Stitch Seam Begin by placing the pieces with right sides together. Hold the pieces in your hand with the two edges facing you. Attach the yarn by inserting your hook through both pieces at beginning of the seam, yarn over, pulling up a loop, yarn over and drawing through loop on hook (chaining 1). Work slip stitches, inserting your hook through both pieces at the same time, from front to back, and pulling up the yarn from behind. Complete the seam and secure the seaming yarn.

Treble Three Together (tr3tog) [Yarn over 2 times, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up loop, (yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook) 2 times] 3 times, yarn over and draw through all 4 loops on hook—2 stitches decreased.

Tunisian Knit Stitch (tks) Tks forward pass (Fwp): Skip first vertical bar, with yarn in back, *insert hook between next vertical bar under horizontal strands (Figure 1), yarn over and pull up loop, leave loop on hook; repeat from * to end, ending with 1 loop on hook; return pass.

Return pass (RetP): Yarn over and draw loop through first loop on hook, *yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook; repeat from * across (Figure 2), ending with 1 loop on hook. Figure 2

from right to left behind front vertical bar (Figure 1), yarn over and pull up loop (Figure 2), leave loop on hook; repeat from * to last vertical bar at edge, pick up front and back loops of last bar to create firm edge; return pass.

Return pass (RetP): Yarn over and draw through first loop on hook, *yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook (Figure 3); repeat from * to end, ending with 1 loop on hook.

Figure 2

Figure 1

Figure 3

Tunisian Simple Stitch Two Together (tss2tog) Insert hook under next 2 vertical bars, yarn over and pull up loop—1 stitch decreased.

Whipstitch Seams Place pieces with right sides together. Hold pieces with the 2 edges facing you.

Step 1: Secure seaming yarn on wrong side of one piece. Pass needle through pieces from back to front at start of seam. This creates a small stitch to begin seam.

Figure 1

Step 2: A little farther left, pass needle through pieces, again from back to front, wrapping seam edge.

Tunisian Purl Stitch (tps) Tps Forward pass (FwP): With yarn in front, *insert hook from right to left behind front vertical bar, yarn over and pull up loop (see Figure), leave loop on hook; repeat from * to last vertical bar at edge, pick up front and back loops of last bar to create firm edge; return pass.

Repeat Step 2 to complete seam. Secure end of seaming yarn.

Return pass (RetP): Yarn over and draw loop through first loop on hook, *yarn over and draw though 2 loops on hook; repeat from * to end, ending with 1 loop on hook.

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How to Crochet | glossary/sources

Abbreviations beg bet blo CC ch cm cont dc dtr dec(s)(’d) est fdc flo foll fsc g hdc inc(s)(’d) k lp(s) MC m mm patt(s) pm p rem rep rev sc rnd(s) RS sc sk sl sl st sp(s) st(s) tch tog tr WS yd yo * () []

begin(s); beginning between back loop only contrasting color chain centimeter(s) continue(s); continuing double crochet double treble crochet decrease(s); decreasing; decreased established foundation double crochet front loop only follows; following foundation single crochet gram(s) half double crochet increase(s); increasing; increased knit loop(s) main color marker millimeter(s) pattern(s) place marker purl remain(s); remaining repeat; repeating reverse single crochet round(s) right side single crochet skip slip slip(ped) stitch space(es) stitch(es) turning chain together treble crochet wrong side yard yarn over hook repeat starting point alternate measurements and/or instructions work bracketed instructions a specified number of times

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Standard Yarn Weight System Yarn: Fingering, 10-count crochet thread Gauge*: 33–40 sts Hook (metric): 1.5–2.25 mm Hook (U.S.): 000 to 1 Yarn: Sock, Fingering, Baby Gauge*: 21–32 sts Hook (metric): 2.25–3.5 mm Hook (U.S.): B-1 to E-4 Yarn: Sport, Baby Gauge: 16–20 sts Hook (metric): 3.5–4.5 mm Hook (U.S.): E-4 to G-7

Yarn: DK, Light Worsted Gauge: 12–17 sts Hook (metric): 3.5–4.5 mm Hook (U.S.): G-7 to I-9 Yarn: Worsted, Afghan, Aran Gauge: 11–14 sts Hook (metric): 5.5–6.5 mm Hook (U.S.): I-9 to K-101⁄2 Yarn: Chunky, Craft, Rug Gauge: 8–11 sts Hook (metric): 6.5–9 mm Hook (U.S.): K-101⁄2 to M-13 Yarn: Bulky, Roving Gauge: 5–9 sts Hook (metric): 9 mm and larger Hook (U.S.): M-13 and larger

The Craft Yarn Council has set up guidelines to bring uniformity to yarn labels and published patterns. The yarn weight symbols that appear in the patterns are based on the system outlined above. We have consulted the yarn label, the manufacturer’s website, and other resources, to classify these yarns as accurately as possible. We continue to offer photos of each yarn to help you visualize the yarns used. *Guidelines only: The above reflect the most commonly used gauges and needle or hook sizes for specific yarn categories.

Yarn Sources Berroco Yarn, www.berroco.com. Brown Sheep Company, brownsheep.com. Cascade Yarns, www.cascadeyarns.com. Creative Yarn Source, www.creativeyarnsource.com. Garnstudio, www.garnstudio.com. Handy Hands, www.hhtatting.com. Lion Brand Yarns, www.lionbrand.com. Lorna’s Laces, www.lornaslaces.net. Madelinetosh, www.madelinetosh.com. Misti Alpaca, www.mistialpaca.com. Plymouth Yarn, www.plymouthyarn.com Shibui, www.shibuiknits.com. Skacel, www.skacelknitting.com. Spinrite, www.yarnspirations.com/bernat. Stonehedge Fiber Mill, www.stonehedgefibermill.com. Universal Yarn, www.universalyarn.com. WEBS, www.yarn.com. Westminster Fibers, www.westminsterfibers.com.

Bow Wrap, Page 84.


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There’s always more online

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A Yarn Less Raveled—Danville www.ayarnlessraveled.com Everything you need for your knit/crochet projects– beautiful yarns, patterns, needles, notions, and support to make your project a success. Classes of all levels! 730 Camino Ramon, Suite 186 (925) 263-2661

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Wool, Warp & Wheel—Richmond Green Mountain Spinnery ................. 37 Interweave ...11, 13, 15, 33, 45, 55, 59, 63, 65, 67, 71, 81, 83, 109, 111, 115, C2, C3 Kelbourne Woolens (The Fibre Co) .... 33 LoveKnitting.com .............................C4 Mango Moon ..................................... 37 Plymouth Yarn Co. ............................ 37

www.woolwarpandwheel.com Spinning, weaving, and knitting supplies and equipment. Tue–Fri 7pm–9pm, Sat– Sun 10–5. 5605 Mill St. (815) 678-4063

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Knitting Off Broadway —Fort Wayne www.knittingoffbroadway.com Located in a restored 1890’s building, this full-service yarn store specializes in unique and hard to-find fibers. 1309 Broadway (260) 422-YARN

Want to drive more foot traffic to your shop? Try a Shop Directory Listing. Email Tina Hickman at tina.hickman@fwcommunity.com or call her at

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Paradise Fibers—Spokane www.paradisefibers.com Terrific selection of wool yarn, knitting needles, wheels, and looms. Order online or stop in. Same-day shipping! 225 W. Indiana Ave. (509) 536-7746

EVENTS SAN DIEGO YARN CRAWL: Third annual SDYC. Self guided tour. September 17-20, 2015. 13 locations. Prize baskets at each. Grand Prize $650 in gift certificates. Classes, demos, trunk shows and more!!! www.sandiegoyarncrawl.com.

NORTH JERSEY FIBER ARTS FESTIVAL. October 2-3, 2015. Ridgewood, NJ. Join us for fiber, fun, vendors, workshops, food, and raffles. www.northjerseyfiberartsfestival.com. Facebook.com/NorthJerseyFiberArtsFestival.

WEBSITES TO VISIT: A b u n d a n t

Y a r n

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www.abundant-yarn.com.100 luscious yarn lines. User friendly website and service. Try us! (866) 873-0580

WWW.HEIRLOOMCROCHET.COM. This is where you will find a large selection of vintage and antique crochet and lacemaking books on CD. We also sell fine crochet hooks, threads, and supplies. Crochetscene

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