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a ern

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®

Copyright 1972

19n

by

Helen leJ/al/

C. JI. Broolt

All rights reserved, including the right to reproduce this book, or any portion thereof, in any form, in any language.

Published By GALAXY CORP. P. 0. Box 9052 Colorado Springs, Colorado 80932

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co - 2- 77


Introduction -

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-


CO YOU SOMETIMES THINK THE FIT IS SO BAD YOU MAY SEE YOURSELF AS ONE OF THESE ? ?

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~¥ fuJUtt too

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ti>4t tfJ4

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to.w ?

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Frustrflted?

•

THIS BOOK IS DEDICATED TO THE SOLVING OF THESE PROBLEMS.

.

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Table of Contents C/Japter I - Instructions for mq/<ing SUNBURST patterns. Pattern Making Tools Assemble SUNBURST Measurement Guide and Extender

Make your Practice Pattern Special Notes

CIJapter 11-lnstructi(Jns for mal<i111 TEST PATTERNS to get your lit. Measurement ~ules Body Markings - Adjusting For the Seamstress who wants to get the PERFECT FIT!

Chapter Ill-Choose y(Jur SUNBURST fqshion. How to select the SUNBURST PATTERN diagrams and SUNBURST PATTERN parts to moke your garment lines that flotter your flgure FASHION SILHOUEITES Dress Silhouettes Neck I in es Col la rs SI eeves Pan ts Jackets and Skirts SUNBURST FASHION MODELS

Chapter IV-SUNBURST PATTERN diagrams Instructions for using your SUNBURST PATTERN dfograms Symbol Identification Chart USE OF CURVE

QUICK-DO METHOD To Assemble Pattern Ports

SUNBURST Pattern Df ograms

Chapter V- Select your SUNBURST pattern parts. Instructions for ldentifylng your SUNBURST PA TIER N ports Your SUNBURST PA TIER NS Mok Ing your FIRST GARMENT the SUNBURST way CHECK LIST - SPECIAL NOTES

Chapter VI-SUPPLEMENTS •


Chapter/ Instructions for making SUNBURST /J(lfferns. PAillRN MAKING TOOLS ................. 1-ii Assemble SUNBURST Measurement Gu Ide and SUNBURST Extender. ...... 1-1

Make your Practice Pattern ............. 1-2 S PEC I A L N0 TES.........................I -6


P(Jffern /tf(J/(ing Tools The i'ollowing tools are necessary in order to successfull y dr aft Su nburst P ~ t t ~ ~ns: • • • • •

.. h

SUNBURST CURVE {included in Kit )

SUNBURST

MEASUPE~ENT

• •

rf*

GU:~E

and EXTENDER (Included in Kit) ·-a,_,, I

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&

lllfl l f

3'!'

77

71' !11111'1 llll'llllMU Dll I

~--~;aetaaW..'>~

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5

!"'7'1''Sn'

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• • • • • •

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Ill lllll I Ill )'llftHl•ltll I Ill I 1.000llOD~llOOlll"tll~lllll;IWOlllO Olfll... Dlftlt

SUNBURST PATTERNS {included in Kit)

DRAFTING PAPER {newsprint or tissue) ;; a

, ••• , 77

WORKBOARD or TABLE .24" to 30 " wia.e and 4 1 to 6 • long (length depends

a

on your height) .

"""'",......,..,,......;;...,......,....,._~.;;,.....,.,....,.,.....,.,..,.."°",..._...._.pt••~!S~'""'"•'.,.""''•''""''"'~'1•11•11•m•n,_•11•1:••••..,,....,,.,~,us..,1~••sw"N"'",..n"""'"'~~...,.....,..,....,...,,....,...

TP.CKS or -·,Yuol

11AS KI~iG

75 UPI I JI JI E1Uc;:ueuc4C4¥ht••M1;

-

TAPE

bi ,,_

FELT TIPPED PEN or SOFT LEAD PENCIL

RULER (one foot) bi

lb

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ef.;.;..,,..•..,,t 1 : '•- +7'77+··· . ill?

MSSJCS

YARDSTICK

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~EASURE

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SCISSORS

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Assem/J/e SUNBURST Measurement Guide and Extender I •

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Figure 1

There are

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I

sections of your

SUNBURST EXmIDER (Fig . 1) •

The first section will be sufficient for all bodice , sleeve , yoke and collar extensions . (Fi(.. 2) You will need to add the second section for long skirts , pants and one- piece patterns . (Fls . J) Assemble in order of consecutive numbers , matching the stars .

Figure

Figure 2

3

Butt the two sections together, making sure the edges that have lines on them are matched up exactly . Use a yardstick for a straight edge . Splice with transparent taoe on both sides . (Fig . 4) -


/ff(Jke Your Pt(Jct1ce P(Jttern It is suggested that you make the PRACTICE VEST PATTERN first . In drafting this pattern , you are learning the technique of handling your tools , so do not attempt to fit it . It is a very si~ple procedure . However , if you don ' t take the time to make this PRACTICE PATTERN to the SAME ~easure~ent at least 3 or 4 times , you will not become familiar with the technique , and it will tend to slow you down and lead to mistakes when making other patterns ,

• ,, B

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01

II

01

I 11

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Follow these Steps

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1 I

PRACTICE VEST PATTERN M- 2143

Figure J.- a .

F

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tf - 2143 (See Page IV - 40)

1 . Remove SU~BURST PATTERN PA?=s shown from Chapter

v. (' ?

is ~or page number , 11 S 11 is fo"!' SUNBURS'.r ?AT'i'ERN PAR'!1 number . ) ..-.• 1

11

Fold on line . ~...

... :

.

• •

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S - 116- P- 32

S- 117 - P- 32 2 .

Figure l - b .

I

l~ext ,

lay out a piece of drafting paper approximately 30 " long and 20" wide . Tape or pin the draft ing paper to either your work board or table . --.

2 - a . Then tape or pin the SUNBURS~ PRACTICE PATTERN on your drafting paper so the longest extension number on the pattern will not extend off the paper .

Figure 1 - c .

~t 1-2

i,1

--._ Remove Pattern Diagram Page IV - 40 as guid e for draw ing lines between dots . £;1- 214 3


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6'5 64 ~ 6 '?>

~

"'..---:)

'2. - ""\

6=----~

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3'igure 2 - a

~ c ~---~ ~ ~1 ~6 ~ 9 156 CE>

3 . Using any assumed measuren:ent ,

~ 'j 'j lj~A---:...\:r--+-.L

which we shall call your "SIZE" , place masking tape above and below "SIZE" number on the SUNBURST MEASUREMENT GUIDE , thus isolating the "SIZE" from the other numbers .

~ '5'?> 'j=- '2.~~ j.

'j \

~ 49

950 __.-"\ 34

o.e __..,.

~

-s""'"·o,,-:~,..----\~ 41 46 -::~\ 4 . Now line up the "SIZE" number

~ 4'5 44 ___,,

on the nerimeter of the SUN BURST .

Figure 2 - b

l\...,,..------4 -a. 9

Lay the edge o:' the

SU!~BURST

MEASUREMENT GUIDE along one of the lines protruding from the SUNBURST .

,..-- 5. See the number appearing beside that line? Go out to the SAME number on your SUNBURST EXTENDER and make a DOT . Then move to your next line and continue around the SUNBURST PATTERN , extending each line shown in the same manner . •

\

'2. --'?>

-

~~!------r---~~--~~~~6 1

s

9 ----~ \0 \\

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-

Figure 2 - c

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• • •

• Figure 3- a

• •

, ,, , , , , ,, , , -'

mark the dot as shown and hold extender in place . Draw a line from the dot back to the edge of your pattern . (Fig . 3- a) NOTE : Each line intended for the DART is labeled with symbol ¢ NOTE : AFTER you have completed all steps t hrough Step 10 on Page I - 5 (you will have all other lines drawn in at this point) , remove Sunburst Pattern and extend DART LINES until they meet . (Fig . 3 - b)

.. ,' , ,

(6) When drafting dots for DART ,

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I

,, , , ,

Figure 3- b

(7) When you have extended each

• •

line out to the number indi cated and you have completely drafted all the dots onto your drafting paper . stand back and take a look at the dotted out line you have created . (Fig . 4 ) Then glance at the pattern diagram of your Sunburst Pattern and the resemblance will be obvious immediately •

• •

~

11

I

• •

• •

Figure 4

~ 1-4

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.,

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F

2X

NOTE : Do not remove pattern from drawing board until all lines are drawn between dots . (with the exception of dart lines) . It will be your guide to double check any possible errors •


(8)

At this point , using your SUNBURST CURVE , connect all dots together by following the outline of your line drawing . Join the dots , making straight lines FIRST . (Fig . 5)

• •

Figur e 5

(9)

Where your line drawing shows a curved line , match the curved section of your SUNBURST CURVE to join the dots together , as in the neckline and side , (F i g . 6)

(10)

You will note NO DOTS are in the curve of the armhole on the vest pattern . On any pattern where you find ao DOTS in tlP armhole curve ,

Figure 6

place the SUNBURST CURVE in the armhole by placing the arrow at the 11" mark on the lower armhole dot. Then align your curve to touch the shoulder dot and trace around the curve (Fig.7). Use other side at the 2" mark in the same manner on back pattern panel,

,1 I I

I I I

I

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Figure 8

I

I

I

I I

I

I

I I

I

NOTE : If there are dots in curve or armhole , fit SUNBURST CURVE into dots by working from shoulder point down and arranging it twice , if necessary . (Fig . 8)

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..

NOTE :

••• ••• • • •I I

Where 2 dots are shown at bottom of armhole you may make i t sleeved or sleeveless .

• ol

I

01

A

•• • • • •

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I 0

"..

SLEEVE - SLEEVELESS :

••' ••

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.

Figure 7

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•'

NOTE :

For any curvature that has mo r e than TWO DOTS , work from the top down , repositioning the curve when necessary .

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Speci(J/ N(Jfes 11 .

Afte r you have compl eted a l l the lines and cur v atures o n the pattern , put the pattern aside , a n d us i ng the s a me SIZE number , RE- DRAFT the I DENTICAL PATTERN . Connect th e dots together when you are finished and see if the new patt er n is CLOSELY MATCHED to the old pattern . If it seems to be close , re - draft the PRACTICE VEST PATTERN once again , using the SAME SIZE numbe r and co n tinue to draft this pattern , using a new sheet of drafting paper each time , unti l you are thoroughly familiar with the use of your tools and the actual drawing of the dots and lines . Th e ste p s y ou h av e just taken should be followed when drafting any SUNBURS T PATlERN .

12 . HO~l TO MEASURE FOR A twliliUS NUMBER

Mark a dot at the DIVIDING LINE between your Sunburst Measurement Guide and Sunburst Extender . Draw a straight line a l ong your Extende1J.(Fig . 9 - a)

I' I' . . . ... •••• . . "' -, I

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I 1111 111 1 1

I I I (D

,....

'l' I' 11111

-N~.~~ ,.... ~~O-N~·~~ ,.... ~~0

------ - -- -

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~s.inquns

UOW W ;t~SA$ UJ a ~4 Dd ~SJ nquns

aas - asn JO:l

Fig u re 9- a

,,.,

Sunburst Extender

~U O !~::>nJ~S UJ

_;._~~_:,_~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ·

vi di 11 g Line

Instructions F.:1r Use - See Sunburst Patte rn System Monuo l ~ COl'Y UG llT

N

8

lH ()t l A.t<>.l ~

~n i

8

11111 I I ' 1·11 1

If' I

.

Sun I ~

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• •• en• N

12- a . Reverse your Extender and measure back from the dot that marked the DIVIDING LINE on your Guide and Extender . Make another dot and cross out the dot that marked your DIVIDING LINE . Connect NE'o/ dot to y our othe r dots . (Fig . 9- b)

s&t 1-6

13 .

See Chapter IV for additional instructions before making y our first garment . PROCEED NOW TO CHAPTER II .

-


Body Markings Mark your flesh or undergarments as indicat ed in Fig . 2-A and 2- B. These a r e your principal fitting points. 2

STABLE POINT #2 Mark at point where shoulder seam starts at neckline SHOULDER POIN1' (a) Middle of shoulder cap (This is also STABLE POINT #4 for sleeves)

1•

\

STABLE POINT #1 Mark center front on chest \

WAISTLINE (c) (d)

STABLE POINT #3 Center front for skirts or pants (Above navel)

I

Figure 2-A

-.,.;;s._ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _,

I-IIP POINT (d)

(Largest part of hips) KNEE POINT (g)

(Bend of knee)

\ (g)

STABLE POINT #4

(Same as SHOULDER POINT (a)

ELBOl\f PO I NT (e)

(Bend of elbow) •

"v'l'RIST POINT (£) (Wrist bone) Figure 2- B

~ 11-t


Bodice Pt1ttern A1t1rl<ings Draft the TEST BODICE PATTER.~ to your siie using the same procedure that you used to draft the PRACTICE VEST PATTER.X in Chapter I. Follow instruct ions beginning in Fig . 3.

3

Figure 3

Figure 4 Match center front (1) and shoulder seam at neckline (2) . 1'ape to body at STABLE POINTS (1) , (2) , & (3)

~ TEST BODICE PATTERN

(fitted) f.t - 21 4 s Remove Pattern Diagram Page IV-40 as guide for drawing lines between dots . (M-2145) Then remove SUNBURST PATTERN PARTS S-241- P-29 and S-242-P-29 from Chap ter V. (" P" is for page number , "S" is for SUN .. BURST PATTERN PART number . )

I-lark BUST POINT as shown with an "X" .

Mark POINT (c) on pattern at WAISTLINE ,

lf shoulder point of pattern does not come up to body

Figure

s

mark (a) , measure distance between (a) & where shoulder point on pattern falls .

If pattern overlaps, mark pattern at POI~! (a) •

+ (c)

3

Figure 6

~t 11-2

+ If bodice pattern doesn 't fit shoulder width. re-draft pattern to larger or smaller size and test £it until pro~er shoulder width is achieved . This will assure proper back fit . ~OTE:

(c

3

Figure 7


Chapter II Instructions for mflking TEST PATTERNS to get your fit.

Measurement Rules ..... .... ....... 11-ti Body Markings ................ .......... 11-1 Bodice Pattern "Ila rk i ngs ......... ......... I I - 2 8 odice

Pattern Adjustments ......... I I - 3

Skirt Pattern Markings and Adjustments .......... 11-4 Pant Pattern Markings and Adjustments .......... 11-5 Dress

Pattern

Marklngs .......11-6

Dress Pattern Adjustments .............. I I - 7 •

Sleeve Pattern Markings and Adjustments .................. I I - 8 For the Seamstress who wants to get the PERFECT FIT ................. 11-9

Figure Problems ........................ 11-9


/tfe(Jsurement Rules (a)

(b)

l11ure l (1)

Always wear tile foundation garments you will be "ea r ing under the garment you are constructing when you take your bust or hlp 1116asuremen.t.

(2)

When taking your bust and hip measurement , tape should be pulled just barely snug .

(3)

l:IUST MHASURllMENT:

Monsure from armpi t t o armpit across tho brondest part of tbe back and then bring tape measure direc tl)' across the point or the bust , (See Pig . l · a) NO'l'Il: Using this measurement system , your bust measurement will increase appreciably . This is nor:mal . If your bust measurenent is not larger than you have normally obtaining , you have not taken the measur ement correctly . JIK)TE:

( 4)

ti f P MfASURE.'tENT:

Find lar gest (S)

(b)

11-u

measur~ment

below

~aistline .

(See F11 . l·b) •

Measure as follows for your various types of gar ents: (a)

~t

been

Dresses , blouses and skirts: Measure O\•er foundation garments. Jac~ets

(Fig. l·a r; b)

& vests (top):

Measure over a sleeved blouse.

(c)

Overblouse , jacket , tunic , vest (bottom): Measure over a skir t or pants,

(d)

Coat : Measure over a jacket for the top . Measure over a skir t for t he bottom .

(e)

Allow extra room if you are llnlna a gormont by using a larger s i ze than for an unlined gar ment .


Bodice P(/ffern Adjustments

'

f

Measure up OT down frOJll SHOULDER POINT (a) to (X) on TEST BODICE PATTBRN to determine how much to raise

or lower shoulder point. (Let's assume this to be 3/4"down).

Draw a line through centerfold of DART on TEST BODICE PATTERN extending beyond DART point (doti:ed line "b") Meas.ure up or doWfl on straight of pattern from centerfold line to point of bust (Jt). (Let's assume this to be 1" down). Measure up or down from WAIST PO!NT (c) to (X) on

TEST BODICE PATTER.~ to detel'llline how much to raise or lower waist. (Let's assume this to be 1-J," up}.

j

f

t t

--...,

(a)

:-

t ·t t t t t

t

t t

t '

To make these ch11nges you have marked on your TEST

Any

of the dotted

adj\1Stments shown can be

.made INDBl'ENDE:NTLY without interfering with the rest of the fit. NOTE:

At this point it is

I

I

• t t t

Pigut'e .l.0-a

tt

On

ne~..

patte~, drop ...

'

t • t

•tt

I Figure ll • a

.,_ _ - -

On new

ALL

SMALL DOTS that 111ake up DART STRAIGHT down 1" , LARGE

I

I

__ ___ ....

pnt~ern,

'

(c)

raise the

'!"WO SMALL WAIST DOTS STRAIGHT LARGE DOTS now ihd~c1!te NEW short waistline posi.t:i.on

up 1-lt",

tbOfs no\il indicat:e ?mW posit tioning 01 dart. t t

t

t t •• • t

t

tt

.

t t t t

tt

Figure 9-b

-(~

-..

When lin-es a.re drawn in th.eo pa.ttern co.nnectin.g NEW DOTS (lA1tG£j , shoulder slope at point of SHOULIJER will have

dropped 3/ 4" with.out distu:rbing STABLE points at center• front , neckline and waist-

t t tt of down. line.

To .raise shoulder level, move dots UP instead NOTE:

.-.. . . . tt t

t t f

Figure 10-b

t

(ll-A

NOTE:

t

--- , _~r.~~:::--_--_,,-~-__.·._ ,

with LlNES, tf n.eede!l , RAISE . or LOWER i:iots SHOuµ>ER as indicated, using coTrection shown Fig. 9· b , Do the SAME for the and

dots.

t t t

t

(:)

BODICH PATTERN, re - draft it . but DO NOT connect the DOTS

there is more than o.ne correction required, make all necessary coTTect'ifeTOTe conn.ecting the

....

t

,

t on t on 9-a and Pig. DART (lO·a and 10-b), t WAISTLINE and ll-b). Jf f al~ays t ions

....

I

t

t t

Ce)

- . . . - - _(bJ

t t t t

armhole,

1-1/2 11

-r. ------. . . --i ,.._

t

On now pa 1-~t'op ALL SMALL DOTS in ARMllOLI! CUllVE SIIRAIG.HT LARGE noW' indicate NBW posi-

Figure /l

t

t

Figure 9-a

I

t t

t t

t t t ttet'n t DOTS down 3/4". t tioning of t

(a)

3/4"

-

t

t t t t t t

t t pattern connocting entire

t 6 ' 6 '

t

When line.s .are ,:lra.wn .l,n the 'NEii' DOTS (l.ARGE}, DARl' at all fo11r po.i.nts will liave been

dropped l" and d.axt will now point CORRECTLY to bust point. NO'l'B: Shortell or l.engthen DA'R.T accotd!ng: to persona1

taste.

wise to keep records of any NOTB: To raise dart level..., changes made on each of your. NQ'llE: Repeat identical shouloer drop on back ~attern.f move dots UP instead of down. test p11tterns.

Figure 11-b •

t• t

(c)

f

When lines are drawn in the P.attern connecting NEW DOTS (LARGE), WAIS1' LENGTH will f n,ow be moved up 1-ls'' and be

t

PROPER l,ength, NOTE:

For LONG waists, lower

t wa~~li.ne dots instead 0£

raising.

t f t

NOTE!

When dots lire 111oved

STRAIGHT UP or DOWN, ANGLE between lower corner of DART and WAlST will CHA.'IGE

slightly.

t

Repeat ide11tica.1 waist adjustment on back pattern. NOTE:

~t

11- 3


Skirt Pattern Markings (JnrJ Adjustments 't 1

\

\

TEST SKIRT

\

\

•t

PATTE!.~

(fitted) M-1146

\ I

t drawinit t lines between re11ove SUSBVRST PATTERN t PARTS S-31-P-46 and S-32 - P-46 le11ove Pattern Diag.r1a Paae

IV-40 as auido for dots. (~·2146) Then

fro• Chapter V.

("P" is for

page number, "S" is for SUNBURST PAT!'eRN PART numbey. J

•I (d)

On ne1t

drop snal 1 DOT on HIP CUR\'E STAAICllT

'

down 1-1,".

pat~rn.

LAP.GE DOt now

~nd1catcs

NE- positioning of hip point.

t t

t t

3 (d)

f.

I/

FiguTe l?

Draft the TEST SKIRT PAT111RH to your si:e ualna the same procedure lhat you used to draft the PRJ.CTtCI! \'l!ST PATTER..~ In Chapter I. Follow instruction• beainnlna in

'

Fig. 12.

center front (l) and waistline (c), Tape lo body at S1A8Lfi rorNr {l) Mark POINT (d) on patlcrn at HIP POCNT. M~tch

•t

When l lnes are dTawn in tl'le p~ttern connecting tn the

t t t t

Nrw DOI (LARGE), HIP POINT on

pattern will have dropped 1-ls" without .ilsnn:bing centerfront, w~is:line, or skirt length, r~ise

hip point, move do's UP instead of doloi"ll • SOTil:

To

(d)NOTE: ~'hen dots are 1110\·ed STRAIGHT UP or OO!rtl, A.'\GLE

t

between ~AISTLINE a~ side aod llIP PO!)iT will CHA.'iGL slightly .

• • •

NOTE: Repeat identical hip point adjustl:lent on back pattern .

• • •t

lle"sure up or dow11 from HrPt POINT (d) to (X) on TEST

S~lRT ~AT'T~RN

to dotel'J11ino • liow niuch to raise or lo,..or hip point . (Let's as,;urn" this to l:>e 1-ls" down). (d)

1-1/2"

=r To u._e these changes you ha\•e a&Tked on your TEST

SKJRT PATTEJtN, re-draft it 1 but DO SOT connf':: t the DOT:>

Fiaure 13

• •t

• •

tt

t

with L!~ES . If ru!ed..U, RAISE or LOWER hip DOTS on SitRT as indicaced, usurg ' correction shown on Fig. 14-a and 14-b. Always :aake this l correction before conn~ctins ' the dots .

Flaure 15-D

t

NOTE: Any dotted adj us t11ent can be made I\'DEPf.\1>EllTtY without interfering loii Lit. i:chr rest of the fit. :>OTE: Mark the record you are J..e.eping with :t.ny addi-

tiooal changes made on your skirt pattern.

~

11-4

Figure 15

f

t t

f

'love DOTS ln HENL 11'1! UP

OT

!IOA°N to lenath de51red. Move DOTS in SAMII DIRF.CTIO' ms ANOLe of sk1rt SIDE and FRONT. \take NEli OO'l'S and

conneel with yardstick.

Adjust ~ength to suit taste accord· in1 to the above diaRram by lllOVing hemline DOTS ap OT

down as sho'llll in l'ig. 15-a,


Pant Pattern Markings and Adjustments t

Remove Pattern Diaaram IV-40 es 1u1de fo r draw1ni llnes between dots. (M-2141) Then rtl'lOVf SUN&URST PAT• TERN PARTS S-419·P-S9 end S·420·P-S9

irOlll Chep ttr Y.

nu11ber, "S"

IS

PART n11:1ber.)

Sit on straight chair and measure fro. waist to chair seat at side , Add l/4... lhis should be sue as tr.list to C~OTCH on pants pattern.

f

("P" is for paat

tor 5Ur\811RST PAllERJO

•f

t t

TEST l'A\;TS PATIEJ!l'i (Flered)

M·21•1

I

t'

''

,; -*--~ ••

t t

f

(BACK PASEL)

Me11sure LO

(X)

OD

-r-...L. -

.,

'•

-

_

Figaro 11

-- - - - -- - - ..

l

\

I I

I

~

I

On new pattern , drop s&all DOTS in CROTCH STRAIGHT DOW!\ ll:". LAAGE A DOTS now 1nJ1cate 1'1:\\' length of ' crotch. Drop small DOT on RIP CURVll STRAIGHT DOWN l". LARGE DOT now in~lcatea ~~W positioning of

Ca>

tf

£:4"

t to (.\.) t to d.etenrlnc t hip point. f do~'ll CXJ

MeasurE up or down from Ill!' l'OJNT (d) on TEST J>ANTS l'AT1J:R.'\ ho~ nucb to ra1ae or lll'<er (Let's 8SSUIDO this •o be l" do\on.)

f fon aa~e your TEST it, f t

the-se changes you have narked PA.'\'TS PATTERN, re•draft but DO ~OT connect the DOTS with LIN.ES. If needed, RAISE or LOWER dots in CROTCH as Ln.dica:ed, usina correction shown in Fiji. 19-a and fig. 19·b. Do the SAME for the Hll' POINT (19-a 8..'ld 19-b), and K\"flll POfNT (20-s and 20-b). r f there is mort>

t

t than one coTTection required , nlwnys

make all nacessary corrections before connectTng the ~ots.

hip point . Woon lines &l'e drawn in the pat·

ta tern connectin& ~~W DOTS (Lh.RGE),

CROTCH Li:NGTH will now be dropped llj", and HIP POJ?-.'T on pattern will ' have droppc-d l" without distLtrbing centarfront, waistlilui , or pants ' lea length.

a

t

Figure 19b

(

t

t dotsTo OPraise crotchofor hip tUP~TE: llt'Ved A.'iCLE POI"'T t slightly, slightly. f Repeat poin: ff crotch adjust NOT!: =ove

inst.ead

do'l;'ll.

point,

lt1Jen dots are STRAIGHT or DOIHi , betl,.een ltA1STLI1''E at side and HIP ~ill OfANCE and A.'iCW: between CROTCB POINT and L~l:E will change

KOTE: nnd pattern.

-

identical hip !!Jlt on front

N>Tl!: An)· dotted sdjusu:ent can be aado lNOEPE~ENTLY without interfer in& with the rest of the fit.

To

(c) . Tap t~ bo~y at STADLE POIHT (l) . Narl I JNr (d) on pattern at lllr POl"l'· 1hcn 11u•rlt. l'olJ\'T ,(g ) on pattern 11 t );Nt.E rOll>i.

I

'f

-

Measure up or from L'.'llE POINT on TEST J>A.\'TS PATTEA.'\ to Cg) to deteTlri.ne bow cuch to raise or lover knee poi.n:t. (Let's assume this to be 3/4" dtwnl '

~latch center front (3) and wai5tl1ne

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(£)

(II}

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(J)

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h

t t t

I iauro 1ti

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Figura 19s

't

(d) l"

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Cd)

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t

or dol>'n from CRll'fCH POI NT

10

l

(h)

f

t t

A.

f

~(d)

f \

TEST PAJl."fS l'AncR.'i tp how much to raiso or Jo~cr crotth point. (!..,t's aSSWlll Lhls to be l\" do1o-n). {h)

!'ATT£Rl in Chapter I. Follow in struct1ons boc1nn1ng in Fia. 16.

t

. 't·~

Figure 17

t

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t t t up t determine

f Ora ft TEST PA PATTtR' to your t si~e us1nc the sa e procodur that f you uted to draft tho PRA TICE \'EST

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t

t

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't t' ' '

N:>TE1 )l11rk the record vou are keep ing with any ;;Jdit1onal changes 11ade on your pants pattern. •

~~ 11-'i


Dress

Pattern Markings I

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Fleuro :oa

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• (i}

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(g)

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pos1tion.

When lines are dr11.n in the pattern connoctin NEW DOTS {LARCE) , t\Nl:~ POIXT t1ill llOlO bt dropped 3/4" without disturbing ll!llgth of pant let. ~TE:

raise knee point, aove Jots UP insteaJ of do"11. To

When dots are aoved STRAlCHT UP or DOWN, ANCLE between CROTCH POINT and IC~"F.E and between HIP POl:ir and ICtlEE t1!ll chan1e sliahtl)'• ASGI.E between i~EE end bottom of pant leg will also change 1l!1htly. SOT£:

NOTE: Repeat identical knee point adjustment 011 back pet~orn.

•f

I

I

f

\ \

I

\

Move DOTS in PANTS HEM·

LTNE STRAIGHT UP or STR.AJGMT DOWN to length desired.

~

(apci. s~~Fi.ooA. -c:.-_, fiaure 21 Adjust lenath to suit taste accoTding to the above •ll •11 ram by moving pants heml1ne DOTS up or do~·n as shown in Fia. 22·a.

TEST DRESS rArtER... (A· Line} H·2147

'' 't I' t

't

t Draft the TEST DRESS

I I

Figure 22b

f f I t

to your lli"O sl•os usin& the SAHE procedure that you us;d to draft the PRAC:rc~ VEST PAT'!'ERS 1n Chapter l , excevt you will CllAl\Gl! the aettina of yoUl' SUNB':fRST MEASUREH!NT GUIDE to your HIP ~ize when you dTIW Ill 00!5 below tlle . w1i1tltne, Follo~ instructioll3 beg~n· nlng ln Fla. 2:s. PATTE.P.~

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t t

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1',,.JnL 1lu.'l«

P.ART number.)

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2rmai.ai tkdt

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Not f'an.t.:i

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Il-6

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Re110Ye P1ttern bia~TaJll IV· 40 as guide for dr 1wini lines bebfeen dots . (M• 2l•7) Then remove SUNBURST PAT· TERI\ PARTS S·S3· P·2 &nd S·S4 · P·2 f r o. Chaoter V. ("P" is £or page 1 nwabor , 'S" is for SUNBURST PATTER.-.

f I

'' • '

't

~I

f t t t I

On now pattern, drop the 1•'0 SMALL KNEE DOTS ST RA 1CH1 l>O"N 3 ~", LARCE DOTS now indicate SEW ltnoe

t' t

fiJUre 22a

't

\ \

I

''

I'

FiauTe 20b

I

\

t t

't

•I \

'

f t

' ' ''

f t I • • t tfConnect O.'EE Pon.,. Cal f f aoved NOIE: lrhe:n dots ire I STRAIGHT UP or A.'iCU: between K!'..'EE t DOll'X, POINT and pants llEMLlNR t both sides will CHA)iGE t onsii5htly. t f length NOTE: Repeat idontic1J on 'back pat tern, t I vi.th

!ldjustment

'

F1111re ll

~atch

STABL.E POINTS {l) , (2) and (3). T&pe to body 1t these three ST.~ PO!h1'S. Hark point (a}, bust (x}, (c) ind (d) on pattern. Follow instructions found in Fia . 13 , 14- a and l.4· b for H!P POI'1' adjust~ent , and Fla . 15 and lS-a for LENGTH.


Dress Pattern Adj'ustments

I

-

(c1

-

-

-

I

-(c)-•

~\

-

-

-

-

(c)

\

\ \

I I

\ I

Figure 25-a

Figure 24

\ \

Figure 25-b

\ I

- - - -

Measure up or down from WAIST POINT (c) to (X) on TEST DRESS PATTERN to determine how much to raise or lower waist . (Let ' s assume this to be 1-3/ 4" dow·n). To make any changes you have marked on your TEST DRESS PATTERN, re-draft i t, but DO NOT connect the DOTS '"i th LINES . If needed, RAISE or LOWER dots on SHOULDER as marked, using correction shown on Fig. 9 and 9-b. Do the S.~fE for the D..i\RT (10-a and 10-b), and WAISTLI~c (25 - a and 25 -b). Also make HIP POi~7 correction if neces sary. (See Fig. 14-a & 14-b). If there is more than one correction required , always make all corrections before connecting the cots. NOTE: Any of the do:ted adjustments shown can be made INDEPE~'DENTLY without interfering with the rest of the fit. ~OTE:

Mark the record you are keeping with any additional changes made on your dress pattern.

- ~

On new pattern, drop ALL SMALL DOTS in \VAISTLINE STrIGHT do,m 1-3/4 ". LARGE DOTS now ind cate NEW length of waist line. When lines are drawn in the pattern connecting NEl\' DOTS (LARGE) , WAIST LENGTH will now be moved down 1-3/4" and be proper length. NOTE: For SHORT waists , raise waistline dots instead of lo~ering . •

l\'hen dots are moved STR.A.IGHT DOWN or UP, ANGLE BETWEEN loi\"er corner of DART and WAIST will CHA.~GE slightly , ANGLE between WAIST and HIP POI~T will ALSO CHANGE slightly. NOTE:

NOTE: Repeat identical adjustments on back pattern .

~ Il-7


Sleeve P(Jttern hf(Jr/(ings (Jhr/ Adjustments !EST SLtUVE PAT1tRN (Fitted 1\Jrn·Up)

To lll!ke tilese changes you have marked • on your TEST SLE£\E PATTP.R..~ , re-draft &it, but DO ~OT connect the OOTS with t LL>reS. 1£ needed, RAJSE or LO~l:R dot EJ.BCW as indica:ed , u!~n· cobrrection shown in fia. ?i·a a.,.. .7- • Do the SAHE for the WRIST POl~"T (ZB-a f and 28-b). If there is more than one corre~tion required, always ic.ake all . necessary correct~ons before connect-

M-21•4

t•t

R~ove

Pattern 01a~r•• IV-40 as suide or_ d ~aw)1nThs ! 1ner!noveeu'seuen·""'~RSolTs.PAT· £.... (n 21~4 ~0 ~ ~"" TERH PART S·61 4 ·P-~6 froa Chapter V. (''P" is for page number, "S" is for SUNBURST PATTERS PART number.) Draft the TEST SLEEVE PATTER~ to your si~e usina the sane procedure tbat you int the dots. used to draft the PRACTICE VEST PAllEIC" . in Chapter I. Use BUST si:e £or dTaft· inr this pattern. Follow in1tructions beginning in Fla. 26.

I I I

(e) -.:---

t

~

...

Figure 28 - a

t

t t

t

Match STABLE POINT (4) anti hi&hest pointt On ne:i. pattern, drop ALL S•!ALL DOTS of sleeve pattern. Tape to body at thlit aake up DART C:TIL\lCHT dol<-n 1". STABLE POIST (4) • Mark POINT (e) on . LARGE DOTS no-. indicate r.ev posipattern at bend in ELBOW and aark POIST i . ~ ELBCW DART (f) on pattern at WRIST. t on 1 ns o_ •

t t t

t t

t t t I

(f)

_J_3/4"

..,_____...T

Measure up or down fros ELBO~ POl~'T (e) to (X) on TEST SLEEVE PATTER~ to deter· mine hov aucb to raise or lower elbow point. (Let's assuae this to be l" down)

POI~7

Measure up or down !rom WRlST (f) to (X) on TEST SL!lEVll l'ATTElN t o deter~ine how much to rai1e or lover vrist point . (L•t'• ISIUllO th.ii to b• 3/A" dovn.)

~t

ll-8

t t I t I t ft t

t t t

, I

t t

t t t t t t t t

I

Figure 29-a ; I

'

I

I

-~ -----

(f) .

-____\

Khan lines are drawn in the ?attern connectina SE" D07S (LAllCE), SLEEVE LE~GTll w1ll now be lo..,ered 3. 4' and be PROPI.ll length.

t

t

Figur e 27

t

t t t t

t

-1" f

iliJi.cate NEW longer sleeve point .

I I

t t

(e)

LARGE DOTS

t

t

(f)

t

tl1 FOUR

t

t

Pl1ure ZI>

On

t

1

t t neli pat tern, d.rop DOTS at the vrist and hotter.a of sleeve pattern t STRAIGHT DOlili l/4". no'O

• Figure 28-b

t

t

t

Figure 29 - b

t t

(f)

t t When lines are drawn in the pattern connectin& !.'.Elf DOTS (LARGE} , entire DART at all points will have been dropped l" and elbov point will nov be in correct po1ltion. KOTE:

To raise dart level , move

dots llP ins te&a of down.

I WRIST dots For SHORTER sleeve lenath, raise lo...-ering. t NOTll: When dot' a.reofnoved STRAIGHT UP SOTE:

instead

t •leeve or betveen cap and dart DO~N , A~Cl.E

lo~er curve of vill CH>u~GE slightly

and ASGL£ between 1over part of dart and • wrist will CHANG£ slightly.

f


f()r the Se(/tnstress Wh() wants f() get the PERFECT FIT.I The following procedure is for the perfectionist. When draftinp your front pattern, make a duPlicate so that )'OU have two identical patterns , Follow the same procedure when drafting the back pattern. Using the fitting techniques shown in this chapter , fit one of the front patterns to tl1e left side of your booy and the other front pattern to the right side of your body. In both left and right patterns, use the same stable points , (Page II - 1 , Fig . 2-A.)

Left Figure 30

Don't forget , any changes made on front patterns are required on matching back patterns . If finished garment does not have seam do,,·n center front or center back , you must tape your two front patterns together at center front and your two back pat terns at center back. Cut on single thickness of material . For any unevenness in the body , both front and back will now be correctly fitted . for FINAL TEST FIT , make a shell of EACH TEST PATTE1U.' fro~ scra1 naterial. (Be sure to al lo\.; SEN-I ALLOl\TAt-:CE . Your pattern is dra f ted to the S EWI~r LIKE only) . ~OTE:

Figure Problems It is suggested that the STOUT fir,ure and the LARGE BUST figu r e use

the follO\l.'ing TEST PATTERNS as these l1ave been designed to give a better fit to these figures .

t.fODEL 2124 Page 111-41

DIAGRAM

~t -

Page IV- 36

2124

BODICE Pa t tern S- 217 - P- 18 S- 218- P- 18 SKIRT Pattern S- 325 - P- 47 S-326 - P- 47 SLEEVE Pattern S-628 - P- 67

EXTRA LARGE BUSTS Fit the pattern to shoulder width as suggested in note beside Fig. 6, • Page II-2. Then take LARGE BUST ADJUSTMENT found in any good sewing book.

ONE HIP APPRECIABLY LARGER See Fig. 30, 31, 32 , 33 - a and 33 - b . Move dot at hip point out to proper position as sho1.;n . Move waist dot , if necessary . Now , move IIEt LI NE dot out same amount as you moved the III P dot in order t o main · tain PROPORTION of rattern .

~t

11-9


ATTENTION STOUT FIGURES :

In many cases , when a person gains an excessive aMount of weight , the body ' s proportions '""ill become s 1 i gl1 tly unbalanced . If tl1i s is your problem , you will already know it. Ke su ~ gest the following procedure to overcome it .

c

3

c ......

\

d--

~· 1 \,

~)

\

•• \ I

I

I \ \

• ...-2" '

Mark body as suggested in Fig . 2-A on Page II-1. Match STABLE POINTS ( 1 ) , (2) and (3) . Tape to body at these three STABLE

POINTS .

tl!.ecial Note The DCYYl'ED ADJUST}iE?fI'S shown her e and in CHAPrER I I correct any NORHAL fitti ng problems . For ABNO:Rr>IAL PROB-

LEMS, use adjustnents found i n any good sewi ng book .

-II-to

Fig . 33-a

Fig . 33-b

Fig. 32

Fig . 31 J

-----~

I

Then measure out from (X) on pattern at \ 'AISTLINE to BODY ·,1ARKING (c) if needed . (Let's assttme this to be 1/2".) Also measure out from (X) on pattern at IIIP POIN'f to BODY ~ 1ARKING (d) . (Let ' s assume this to be 1" .) Next, measure out Crom (X) on -oat tern at LENliTll DESIRED to IVIDTH at iJE~1L TNE to maintain PROPOR'fION shown on PATTERN DIAGRfi.1\1, (Let ' s assume tl1is to l)e 2".) See Fig . 32, 1

To make these cl1anges you have marked on your pattern , re-draft it, but DO NOT connect the DOTS lvi th LI NES. Use corrections shown above in Fig. 33-a and Fig, 33-b , On new pattern, move ~AIST ­ LINE DOT STRAIGHT out 1/2", move HIP POINT DOT STRAIGl~T out 1"• and move LEN GTH DOT at HEr1LINE STRAIGIIT out 2" . LARGE DOTS noh' indicate )JEiV positioning of \\'AI ST , If IP POI NT 1 and \\i IDTl-I at HBfLINE . (Fig . 33 -a ) \\'hen 1 ines are dra'm in

the pat tern con11ec ting l\E\~ DOTS (LARGE) , \1AIST , HIP, and IIEt-'LINE l'/I DTll will he of sufficient cir· cumference to fit. Your pattern is now in perfect PROPORTION. (Fig . 33-b)

AT1'ENTION VERY TINY FIGURES:

The above correction can be used in reverse to correct problems in skirts of one · piece dresses by moving the dots IN instead of out.


Chflpter Ill Choose your SUNBURST f(Jsnion.

How to select the SUN BUR ST pattern diagra ms and SUNBURST pattern parts to make your garment ........... 1I I - ii Lines that flatter your flgure .........111-1 FASHION

SIL HOUETTES........... 111- 2

Dress Silhouett es............ 111-2 Ne c k 1i n e s.............................. I I I -4 Coltars ..................... ............. 111-4 S leeves .........•............ ....... .... 111-6 Pants ....... .............................. 111-6 Jackets ................................... 111- 8 Skirts .................................... 111- 8 SUNBURST

FASHION

MODELS .... 111-10 •


~

~

~ ~

~

~

~

lltltr~,,,,n--How to select t/Je 'f!.

SUNBURST p(Jttern di(Jgr(JtiiSHHll

.· ~~2Jl

~

~

~

~

~

~ ~ ~

1

Choose your SUNBURST FASH IOI\ MODEL. (Above model on Paee IJI-17 All models are numbered consecutively.)

-

a~·

~ ~ ~ ~

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SI

II ix

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I S·620·P·69 6"

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II

zx

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Chapter IV whose number matches the SUl'BURST FASHION ~fODEL . (Above diagram matches fashion model on this page and is found on Page JV-14.)

~

Siifibum

111-u

-

-

---

~ 3

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9 !

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==

Select four SUNBURST PATTER."! PARTS fror:i Chapter V whose nU111bers match those shown under each SUMlURST PA~fER.._ DIAGIWI in !-237. These SUNRURST PArTEHK PARTS arc DRESS front S·S3·P ·2, DRESS back S-54-P-2 SLf;EVP. 5·6ZO·P·69, and COLLAR S· 73 · P· 7Z. 1o make your riocket , use the dimensions shown on your SUNBURST PATTERN DIAGRAM in :.1· 237. ~'


lines that flatter YOUR FIGURE.

SllORT 1~'f":{K

Twdl.ene~. 11.LJ;A 114Jh- 0011.wzA.

S'f(JRT !VAI57

Waid i.nl.~ bel.;ta, ii.gJti. anrl. f-ul1. 4~.

ne~.

FWed 44).M.

5/tALL !1JST

L{jyy WAIST •

tV/WR0,1/ 511011.l(flS

HffillJ-5[! FI9JPC5

Set-i.n. .de.ev<?A. tVea/l. bcuic ~ and d.aM.

/ablli..c4

i:lud ~ rwi bU4:;.

ool.o/l/.11

Oo~ ~ !wrvrw. ~ ~ oA. piai.dA. Holli..~'ni:.al. ~·

irrJTl: cxh.a.u.duve i.n.fnllJTr"d,i..on. on :th.iA .dui>;fed wilJ. be coveA.ed ht ol.Jlt 5UN!Jli67 ft519V SUPl'/.f,!>(jff. (See (}tapieA IV {..oil. i.n.fo;um;li.on on how hJ oll.deA.) •

~t '111-1


FASHION SILHOUETTES

Sheaih.

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I f..,f11P'.Ae .

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Yoke •

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Low fJ/wt.


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5. {,/l'fiJ!Pl 6. !!IJJJSOV

/l'J-2];- /t'J-;!/., fl'J-219, lt'r-22], lt'r-225, /l'r-JdJ, fr'J-2)1, /1',-2]], (1't-2J5, /l'J-d52, /l'J-d'S<;, fl'f-275, /t'r-2107, (f'J-2121, m-21:D, /l'J-21 :a'3, /l'J-21 }2, fr'J-21 JI., ln-21]5, ln-2142. /f'J-216, lr'>-221, /t..,_224, ln-229, frt-2Jl, /t'J-251, 11'1-254, /t't-259, /l'J-255, /r'J-297, /t't-2100, /l'J-210], fl'r.2104, /l't-2109, /t'i-2110, /t'J-2116, ff'J-2122, fl'r-212], /l'J-2147. /l'r-295, ft'r-27], /1~299, /l'f-21I2, 11-21 I], /l't-2114, /t'r-2116, /fJ-2124, fl'r-21 Jl, /11-214], /l'i-2145. /fJ-22'/, /l'J-24J, /l'r-~15, /1~2/0J, /l'f-2111. /r;..2/], lt'f-222, /l'r-239, /11r-:i11, fl'r-242, (f'f-~, /l';-247, /IJ-298, ffJ-2125. ffJ-22, t1'J-25, lt'J...276, t»-.29I. t1'J-253, /t~/01, fl'r-2114.

1. Sift CLllSINq 8. 'Pi?IN~SS ffl-215, /l'J-2J), /r'J..2WJ, (ri,...~, /t'J..dSJ, ~J, /IJ-2102.

9. 511fi?TtVAI57

/n-231, fn..2JI., /l'J-235, /l'f-249, /r'J-2127, ff'>-2128, /l'J-2129, m.21JJ, /!'12140, /ft..2141. 10. TUNIC (J'J-272, /t'f-276, m-2115, /t'f-2141. II. YQ't /JJ-225, /l'J-25(), /l'J-292, /11-2118, /l'r-2119. 12. 'R~D WAIST /i'J-2#, /l'J-246, lr't-;!12. I].

78t7

(J'J-251.

14.

1.111/ lti-4157

ft'f-232, fl'J-d54.

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back opening ,

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...

BASIC

I

PATTERNS

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~~2145 Bodice PG. II-2

/1~2/l;!;.

/J",-2//6 Skirt Pg . II-4 ~~-

Sleeve Pg. II-8 /J- 2147 Dress Pg. II-6

.... ..,

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. .. ·.

.

~

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lll-44


Chapter IV SUNBURST PATTERN DIAGRAMS

Instructions for using your SUNBURST pattern diagrams ....,.....1V-ii SYMBOL IDENTIFICATION CHART......IV-1 SUNBURST PATTERN DIA GRAMS .......1V-5 USE OF CURVE ••.••• •..•.••• . .•.••••••• . IV - 4a

QUICK-DO METHOD To Assemble Pattern Parts ... ...•• .... IV- 4b


lnstrucfi(Jns f(Jt using y(Jllt SUNBURST /J(Jffern di(Jgt(Jlns Your SUNBURST PATTERN DIAGRAMS are Jour guide for connecting the DOTS after you have expanded your SUNBURS T PATTERN. The SYi·!BOL IDENTIFICATION CR.ART shown on the following pages will clarify any symbol or abbreviation shown on these diagrams . After your pattern has been drawn, if CUT LINES are shown . proceed as shown in (1) , (2), and (3) below . You must add SEAM ALLOWANCE in the fabric to all patterns drawn. HEMS must also be added . See Fig. (a) I~

CUT lines

I

\

'II

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I

\

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I

(l)

I

I

( 2)

( 3) I

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I

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l

Wberever DOUBLE CUT LINES are shown on your SUNBURST pattern diagram , you must separate your pattern as shown above . Add seam allowance to all separated parts. Where waist darts are in the middle of a separation (back bodice - right) , tap e r in at waist after s e ams are sewn and trim seam .

I

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I

------------ -------

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,'

..<~

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' ~

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.·'

~

*

I

Figure (a)

1 1

I I I

~,

~v~u

To figure the EXACT amount of material to buy, cut out all pattern parts , {including facings) and arrange according to grain line indicated on pattern. Consider seam allowance when doing this, You can arrange the pieces on your table top or floor by marking out a width of material you ordinarily buy . Afte r pattern is economically placed , measure the length . If you decide on a different width material at time of purchase of your fabric , department stores and fabric shops car r y conversion charts to det e rmine amount needed for anot h e r width .


Sym/Jo/ ldentificfJtion CnfJrt 'l'he follovi n r; explanation of Slli* BURST SYMBOLS and ABBREVIATIONS will help you identify various pattern

parts and tell you vbat each symbol means . familiar vitb these symbols:

Sk

-

Skirt

Sl

=

Sleeve

F

B

-

Cf

Cl Pt Sh

--

Yk 'tlb

Back

Use BUST measurement number above waistline and including waistline . Use HIP measurement number below waistline. NOTE:

b7

b l8 Cuff

b

measurement number .

Pants . Sho rt s Shorts Yok e hl49

Waistband Belt

p

Pl

-

Pl eat

Shld . Stp .

=

Shoulder St ra p

••

=

------

=

2X

--f

= Use BUST

Collar

-

Blt

=

Front

Become

h

Pocket

-

Use HII' measurement number.

Center front/ Cent er back

Sewing line without seams

I

I I

B

F

Place on FOLD Match corresponding marks for assembly of pattern parts

I I I

I

2X ~

I

tf ;"VVWI

Amount of pieces to be cut

o~

--

Gathe rin g • or easing

-

Button or button hole placement

~~

IV-I


Your SUifBU.RST PATTERN number , 11 S 11 stands for SUiJBURST PP.TTERN PART number , "P" stands for PAGE number in Chapter V where you find all SUNBURST patterns . S - 56 - P- 2

Connecting points . between dots) ,

B

...

,

{Draw lines

Drop dot lines. {Drop neckline to desired depth) , F

t-1 I

Dart lines on SUNBURST patterns .

Dart on diagram â&#x20AC;¢

~t

dIV-2


--------------------------20.S

-3 0

Half number

l·!inus numbers Zero numbers. (Extend SU?lBURST Measurement Guide to DIVIDING line between GUIDE and EXTENDER . )

Use one line only, (Jud g e this by whether you are using a sleeve or making the garment sleeveless , )

Facing , Trace your FACING from the pattern you have drawn by using your SUNBURST diagram as a guide.

~~~~~~

.....

Use tracing carbon and additional paper, Then you can use your facing pattern parts with the rest of your pattern parts to determine the amount of mate rial to buy , -...~~~~~--~

..................

~~~~~~~~

Zipper

a"

Use dimensions given to make pattern .

(Collars, pockets , trim • accessories , waistbands and belts , )

,

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L __1

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Trim position (such as pockets . sewn in belts , etc . )

I

I

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--------------------------3'' ~ - - - - - - -

For Waistbands , Belts, and other varying lengths which can only be decided by your individual measure ~ ·-....... ments, extend to length necessary

to fit your own measurements ,


Grainline Straight or Bias

so Sk F

®---

You will find two dot s circled on your SUNBURST pattern . When you draw out your pattern , CIRCLE these two dots and your expanded patt ern will look like your SUNBURST diag ram. Now take your yardstick and draw a line between these two CIRCLED dots for your g rainline. (This is built into your patt e rn in cases whe re the grainline is difficult to determine by the use of straight of g r ain arrows , )

-------------------r----------------'t t t t t t t

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t

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t

t

F

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2x

.....____________._ i).

t'

i

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'

1

.

t t t t t t

·····1 t t

t

~

F Sl

B

--- -

-

t

SkB

I

'

2X ~•de

zx ~~

......

Cf

- - 2X

tr••'' •

Yokes & Cuffs Some patterns have the yokes drawn with the parts they are sewn to. Some sleeve patterns are drawn with cuffs on the same SUNBURST patte rn. This is no problem , Simply follow your SUNBURST pattern diagram to connect you r dots as shown. (This will also be true of most paneled patterns) .

·-----------------~t

0

1V-4

Length and width arrows are shown where extra length or width may be desired or necessary to obtain p a t tern illustrated . Simply use your ruler or yardstick to e xtend the DOTS i n the SAME direction the lines are running. Then connect the dots.


Use of Curve STYLIN~

..

0

-

CURVE

Ncle

f

B

number here ~~~ •• ,

F'

_2}._{_1

I

r--,

a.."ld

I

_..

I l

here

--

Use same

-

0

:tU!llber~

fer posi ti.cning.

l

N

0

0

N

F

N

USE OF CURVE TO HA7CH SEAMLI~"E.S .

"' N

-

L

Seam will be the same length and t.he tl8Jlle curvature F & B .

Use the same procedure with curvaLure positions on Sleeves to make arm Gewns match (Fig , A) , and on Pants (Fig.:s B, C, D, & E) , Any other ma.tohing seam curvature will be handled in the saJno way, .l.nclud.1ng ak.irta front and tiack. (NoL shown)

Sl

Follow diagrain very carefully , re-positioning the curve when necessary between Fig , A

dots. Start :frolq -:he shoulder a.nd work down with amholes and deep necklines . Be carefU:. mere is no peak or dip in the center front of a round neckline or at bot~om of ClJjl!hole which has side sean 1n center of a.n;ipit.

F

•,.:ro~

Vrong

51

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2x

Rignt

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F' --

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If r.eckl1ne ls round. NO'l'E1

Use curve that fits the dots best ,

matching mosL closely the diagram ,

Always use 119 on Styling Curve £or Kip Point when Curve is placed 1n position show. Straight line Hip Point

19

19

Hip Point •

~

zx

Pt 3

2x

Pt. F

Pt F

Pt B •

Fig. B

Fig.

c

Fig, D

Fig. E.

~~t

1V-4a


Si'Vll!C !I~ t .Lfte:r e""1ng M&aa, trla aru1 cll.P \lherB necessary.

Preas aea•F open.

QUICK- DO METHOD

S"!9 ! i C~oae -b...._-...U <.n. £ror.t a.n4 baCk ~· ¢91! 1 &l•ev.s..

••••••••••••o••••......

TO ASSEMB LE PATT ERN PARTS $Tl:P ~·

Bodice S:-EP

J; Jui.n ~op ~f' Al:llhou.

e~ to

Join aid•• o!

ol••Vn, --.d• of: bocUe•. F SI 6'11:1' i., face eoll..u &zd L t< noel!. perdn;;.

an;r

1 , Follo11 sr..;:r.l 1 Uirough !i for l!Cllll~.

Ski r t

5Ti:J' 21 Follow STl:P.i 1 a:ll1 2

Cl

S'l'l1P J: Jo1n bodice and skirt. Add. 1::ip-per,

for SIURT.

Dress STlllP 1 r Oloee da.rto on M11t a.nd llaokJI.

B

B

ST£l' '21 JCIU ald.u. J01.D back. leav1l\g

CJ'pa ope-:1na . B

8

F

5'1'£1' 3 • Add r j pptt "'"Id ..Uatbo.nd , l!' ~

.... •ia:a.·•

llldrt .

Shi rt or !lAJllSI

\:

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Cl

~ ._____,

Sn:P : 1 JaiJ> sides or alecvas.

SI

Sa:J' 4: Jo!.ri aides

or

ahl.rt •

.

F

f

B

B

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Pan ts

!T!:P ! I Cl0$8 iarta 1n *k Mctlona.

, J OOJ I t i Cd I J , , IOI• • . IJS I J . tlCIJt a

su;p 2 •

Jo1n f'%cn1. :m4

r

0 IOOOats • •••

S".'il' .,, Jol.n froct back 1nside a••ec.

ll&cl\ ouUidlt ~. I

S'l'EP

5• AM 1'acl.n4, ooUiu-,

Join top or cu1'1& 1 pocltot, buttono and. al•eve to &:en.hole, bUttonbOleo. S'r!l!P '21

a0 J , , IC

• , , 1001 ?JCOll: Coll O'OI I JI 0 JCl l lll a,, 11a:rc1••• 'Cl 01011110 0 •• I I 0J''1101111' 10 0 Is

STEJ'

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Jol.n c:rateh , _ . ,

c1;pa 0,..1.,.,

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F

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f:u:in£, aippor,

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and Add°"~""""' t or hook al'.ld eye tc -.-aist"bar.<!.

f. B

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STEP

c PPPCllJP CIOflllJI"

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SUNBURST Pattern Diagrams

• B

--S-237-P-24

B

,, -

2){

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2X

S·42 1· P- 57

Pt B

2X

S- 45 - P-54 I I

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Sl

I

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F

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S-622 - P- 64 S-235-P - 24

B

a

S- 726 - P- 73

f\I

X

I

2x

!J

P tF 18

11 11

Zx 71

F old 2X

I

S-46 - P- 54

I

S-236 - P-24

~t IV-5


• I

...

I

S- 23-P- 10

I

S- 48 - P- 54

I

' I'

F

S - 47- P- 54

B

PtB

I

2X

I

2X

2X

I

S- 123 - P- 33

11

S- 247 - P- 31

( 2x

Bra

18

- - - )111

Shra .. Stp.

· ~2:x=-_..11-----::::::-~

F

B&S

2x

-;

--l

1 ~~

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I I I

B

F

I

ShB

I 2X

S- 43 - P-53

I I

-

PtB

PtB {(

'

S- 711- P- 71 Cl

lx

'

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I

PtF

PtF

. ;.·

j,.;; .

F 0

;•

--- --e S- 238 - P- 24

zx

a

B

--- S -237 - P- 24 2X

~ IV-6

o

c

S- 425 - P- 58 S - 426 - P- 58 2.x

2x

2x

Zx


• -\W-· f

S- 233- P- 23

0

Pt B

P tF

S- 424 - P- 57

. S-234- P- 23

*

S- 423 - P- 57

51.eeve.

m-28

m-210 . ,'.S:

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...

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•'

.

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--- - -

2X

2X

Sl

'• ·:~·

- - - -1..fOf

S- 614 - P- 66

B

5 · 428 - P- 58

fVai..<Jt. Ak~Wte.meni + 5''

11

3

fE - - - - - --

......__.*

2X

2X

-B- 1-t . -

i

S- 427 - P-58

zx

(1-

i

~

-

I

I

S- 428 - P- 58

Sl

S- 41 - P- 53

I

I

xz F

I

N

~

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-Q-

i:Q

X S-4 27 - P- 58

I

S- 632 - P- 65

--

2x

2X

~

J

g

F

i

~ J ~ ~-~~

-

8"

S- 42 - P- 53 ~

• ~

......_.......,..,.

•.....__

f. _21•x i''~

S- 71 2- P-71

' '

S- 431 - P- 60 : I

*

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S- 432 - P- 60 I

x

N

I I

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~

x

N

~

IV-7


••• •• ••• •• ••

• •I

I

I

• ••

••

S-419 - P-5 9

•• • •• ••

••• • ••

S -4 20 - P-59

l Shld Stp

Bra F 2x

S- 247 -P-31 t

I

"

5 -122- P- 33

-

~

••

•.--' I

2x

S- 24-P -11

• •• •••

::........... • :

B

ZX

~

S-328-P-47

S-2 5- P-ll

•• ••

2X

I

S-327-P-47

•• • F

I

2x

••

•• •• •• ••• •

S-123- P-33

I

• •• •• ••

• •• ••• • • •

I

I

I

••• ••• • •• •••

B&S

2x

SkB

SkF

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·=

~

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I

•4""\ -

I

•• •• •

T---· --

S- 634 - P - 68

··· ~· ····················· ··

•.................

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I

I

I

I

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••••••••••••••••••• 6'' • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •• •••••• •••• • •••••••••• •••••••••••••••

PtF PtB

P

a"

2x

S-41 8- P- 59 •

S-12- P-ll _.

B

- --

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2X

,---2X

~t

IV-8

S- 620-P-69

2.X 2X

2X


•• •

••

•• • •••

------------;;------'T"'"ll ·;• I I

: • • ••

N ~

• ••

S- 523- P- 8

•• •• ••• ••

NOTE : Dres s

- --

••

only •

• • •• •

• • • •• •

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I

S- 524 - P- 8

F

Cut here

/

B

•••

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• ••• •

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I

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~

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N

2X

2X

• •

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•• •• •••••••••••••••••••••• • • • • • ••

••

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S- 59 - P- 4

2X

2X

••

F

•••••• • • •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• • ••• ••• s I •• •• I I S

B

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-- - -

--

2X

- - --

••

S· l 2· P·ll 2X

•• •• •••

2.X

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•• ••

S- 620 - P- 69

•• •

• •

• •• • ••

a

S- 315 - P- 43

Sl

I

I: '

B~

S- 43 - P- 53

F :;.........

S- 44- P- 53

• *

SkF

SkB

••

6"

••• • • •

s"

S- 324 - P- 45 ZX

• • • • • ••

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..... •

• • ••

x

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• • ••

N

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•• •

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•• • •

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2X

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2x

S- 316- P- 43

S- 323- P- 45

• •

p

S·Sl O- P- 4

18'' Shld

B r a. F

2x

-I

2x Stp .

2x

B&S

- 24 - P-31

~I

IV-9


• X2

S- 510 - P- 4

S-1 2P-ll

xz

B .~

---

xz

F

F

2X

g

2X

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2X

S- 53 - P- 2

S- 59 - P-4

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s'lf - - - - - - - - -

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2X

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1~ \ \ \ I

p

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S-28 - P- 12

• N

2. X

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S- S4· P- 2

S-53J-P-J6

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S- 329 - P- 48

I I

2X

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S- 330- P- 48

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S-5 34- P-1 I

S-535-P-1

2X

I

zx

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2X

F

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S· Sll - P- 5

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t 2XI -----

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S- 630 - P- 65

..

....

F Sl

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F

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S-630- P .. 65

B

2X

I

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' S- 256 - P-25

- - --

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I I

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Sk

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F

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I S- Sl - P-11

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S- 52 - P-l

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2x

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F

- - - - -t

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2.X

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0

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!rlea4Wtemen:t + 5"

~ JV-11


S- 261 - P-25

S- 262 - P- 25

*

* F

B

2x

2x.

...

~ ----~~._.

~

Sl

F

I

I S- 615 - P- 66

I B

~--

2x

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--

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I I 1-ij

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S- 349 - P- Sl

-=--------_.,. • ...__----· -

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S- 56 - P- 2

~

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I

N

2.X

S- 348 - P- 51

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• S- 722 - P-73

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S- 622 - P-64

zx + ~

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S- 514- P-5

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S- 61 9- P- 69 Sl

-- -

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-- F

S- 513 - P- S

I=

F

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2X

I I

2X

S- 64 - P- 61

I

Cl

S-719- P- 73


S-725 -P·73

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S-26 - P-29 f

2X

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I

SkF ..... N

SkB

I

2X

I S-33 2·P-48J

S-331- P- 48

I)

~

j F

NOTE : After skirt is drafted. draw in pleat lines. If dots at t op and bottom of skirt appear curved. draw a line at top & bottom from side seam to side seam. making a perfect rectangle.

Sl 2X

S- 638 - P- 68

I

,.

.....

-1

I & I

-4

-

..

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Sl

zx

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5

7

S- 69 - P-63

S-61 - P- 61

~

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xz F

Sl

S- 53 - P-2

S- 630 - P- 65 t

F

I

-- --

2X

B

I

S - 263 - P - 26

I

B

!:>' ZX

: S- 264 - -26

.,____v~

II

12 i "•1r---~u,..e-c~k~ b-e._n_d~~ 4x-,

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I nstructlons for identifying your SUNBURST PATTERN parts .........v- ii Your SUNBURST PA ffiRNS ................ .V-1 Making your FIRST GARMENT the SUNBURST way ...........................V- 75 •

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Check List

. ....... ... .... ...~~.~ . ~~~. . ... ... ....... ..... ..................................... noN1r:ll. i.n.. IU..gh. in~ 1.ow ...... .... .............. .... . .._

'Val.At.

rrarr

IIi.p 'i>oi.ni Olt TIA'IJ I/enilJ..ne • • • • •• • • • • • • • • • • • • •• • • • •• • • • • • • • •

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Oil.

-- -

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STQJT - Si.~ ruunbert. t'1.at µ_~ /Jh.ould.eA - - in.ch.<M.

•••

• • • • • •

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i.n.. in. in.. i.n. ••• ••••• • •• •

• •

• •


C/Jqpfer VI SUPPLEMENTS Design Supp/etnents

f qs/Jion Suppiements Childrens Suppiements Mens Supplements lttisce//qneous Supplements


a ern

s s em

©

®

Copyright 1973

1972

Chapter Vl-E by

Helell le.Ma!/

C. .M. Drool

All rights reserved, including the right to reproduce this book, or any portion thereof, in any fonn, in any language.

Published By GALAXY CORP .

P.O. Box 9052 Colorodo Springs, Colorado 80932

Atti Oi.AeciO/L.' 'Vanda. ALbeA.i: IVt.:t fVon.k: ~ Al.i.ce Keil OAD./.JAncm.: Ch.aAi.eA Lefr'av.


Ch(Jpfer VI--£ Mens Supplement

MEN 'S SUNBURST

FASH ION

MODELS .................... Vl- Ec-2

Additional General Instructions for using MENS SUNBURST PAmRNS ......Vl - Ec-11

Measurement Rules Making TEST PATTERNS to get the fit

Adjustments ........... ...... ....... ...... Vl- Ec-12 I

SUNBURST PATlERN DIAGRAMS f or MEN ........ .. .... .. .... ..... ..... .. ..... Vl -Ed-1

Your SUNBURST PATTERN TEM PL ATE S for MEN ......... ........ .. ...Vl - Ee -1


Mens SUNBURST Fashion Models

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Measurement Rules I.

~•••ure the man vour textboo~.

L

L +

f:!•a1urc cheat in fulle1t part as shovn in illu• tt11tion.

I

, t,. 1.1 . , , I .g_u.ii -•

b • •

followin• Reneral TUI.es outlined in

~e111ure

!

hip• in fulleat part ,

TEST PATTERNS ~ake

a teat ahirt pattern fir1t .

~odel E-7 is ~aiat , elbcm, and

Malec

11

su11esced , Hark hia body for ahouldera , wrist. Hark the•• point a on teat pattern 1 u11in11. du~ sllll'e instruction• •• found in Chaptor II in your textbook. Record 11d1uat111ent• for future patterns , teat pnnta pattern next . Morlel E- 20 is S1.1R(Ul11ted, Hark body for woiat 1 hip point and knee point, ~ark these points on teat pants rattern and record ,

Becau11a of the diffttrcnce in pa.nts styles, it "ri 11 be ncc••••ry to chock the followina measurements >l'ith each new style p11ttern you wtl 1 use. This is new information on fittinR ~hich cnn he used for fitting wO'l!len ' s panes , to~ .

Q)

Measure outsel!lll (!rO'!ll 'Where to finished l~ le~th) ,

@

Me.aau:re 1.oselll:I

CD

Subtract int1e.1m

sea~

at wai1tlina of p11nt1 ahould fit the body,

(crotch to finiahed le• len1th). cieasur~nt

froia out aal\D: ll!e~•urenent , Thia t. CTotcil de pth on bRck 1ec:1 of Pl!lllt . If necessary t o raiae or 10W11r. follow inatrucrions canrllined cm PaRC II- 5 in JOUr textbook, Meuure froa Slll:le position at llaiat line in front between levs to sear- position at waiatline in back, Add Is inch aa1ement , ~·•••ure p11nta pattern u illustratec' AFTER 1111y cYotch len•th adjuatinent has been ~·~e. It 1hould be the &&c!e ~~•ure-~nt,

©

I r-- - - -

\

CO!llb ined Front and Bsck Crotch Hcaaurement ,_ - - - -. 1lai1t Seamline

Wai at

f

0

Crotch Lenitth

-- --

Front

Crotch riapt h

81\ck

Q)

Outae1111

~--Outaeam

I

) @Inff

• ~-..J

Cuff Lenr,ch

l _ ____ _ ..J

llem L _ _ _ _ _ ..--'

fold Line

~I Vl-{.c-11


If total 111ea1urement of f l'ont and back panta ia aborter or lonaer than peraoo 'a -.auresent 0 move crotch point dot OUT to eul.Ja~• - aove crotch point dot IN to dacr•u•. The figure pl'obl- 1.nvol-d will detanaine bOY to 90"9 th• dota end re-cut"l1!. Larae Abdo.an: Move cl'otc.h dot out full •ount oeedad unlaa1 problea iA ut1w. If Oft.r 2 1.nche1 diffarence, 1dd part of the ditfettnc~ to vaiatline, Re-cuTVa,

F

Larxe Buttockat Mova crotch dot out full mnount oeedeo unlea1 problem i1 utn1111t1 , lf over 2 1och4!a differe:ncc add pert or th• difference to waiatlioe, Re• curve.

B

Flat !uttocka1

MO'l/9 crotch dot in full amo\lllt,

Wida Crotch: (he-.y thigha) Kave crotch dot out by dividing mount of differaice in half, Add to both front aod bac:lt equally, 'iOve crotch dot in for thin tbigba ,

' •• .. ,f ' I

F

ADDITIONAL NOTES TO IDENTIFY SYMBOLS IN THE

\

B

I

11

MEN 1 S SUPPLEMENT''

Shouldet' dot MllLTIPLE GARMENT SUNBURST PATTERN

Shouldel' line

~otaa

... ~

lX I

tn

"'g

I I

B

..

zx

....... .c:

I I I I

1

SI

on Sunburst tell you which lines to uee for separate etyle1 • Example i See s~21-E-l . Uae all line• without symbol• plua line1 indicated with aymbol for atyle uaed.

....

:.

-

~

:I;

I I I

"C" appear1n11 before. the DU111ber on Sunburst line - nae che1t aea1ureant, "II" appearing befon the. naaber on Sunburst line; \IBe b:ip eaaurerrot,

o.. cheat meaaure1ient for

ahi~•.

jac:ltet•• aleevee and collaza, Facing lntarfacintt

~t

Vl-lc-12

SHotlL.DER LINE ON SUNBURSt PATTERN Indicated by larg• black dot on line (example - refer to S-22-B-l)

Ure hip •aauxeuent for P8llta, •


't

S-73-P-22 Cl Up

• •

Upper F"

, I

s

8

S-1 4-P-6

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S-69-P-20

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NOTE: For under collar. make pattern !'" narrower in width *Pockets *Flaps

S-11-P-6

t

tB

'ff

I

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f

S-15-P-7

S-16- P-7

-~n-~2.--------------.-~~=-:1 . Uppe r

x

t *Pockets

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......

t

U'l

'

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S-69-P-20

S-69-P-20

S-111-P-9

~TOTE:

For unde.r collar. make pattern Ji;" narrower in width

*Pocket *Belt

• 2x

Upper

.

*Pockets *Flaps

. • ·;

·.· !:'.)

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Sl

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S-11 2-P- 9

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Under

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F

S-211-P-3 View B S-61-P-18

+

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. *NOTE : Refer to paee Ee- 24, 25 for

f t

all trim and accessories made by measurements instead of Sunbursts.

t............ ~.--.~----~~ ..... ~ ..... ~. ......

I

NOTE1 For under collar. make pattern ~" narrower in width. *Pockets

S-76-P-22

t

t

Mens SUNBURST ' :--- I Pattern ~d-i f B

f

I

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S-217-P-5

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2.x

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*Upper Pocket same as E- 39 *Lower Pocket s , same as E- 14 '

---- !

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S- 77- P- 22

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Refer t o pa ge Ee- 2 4 • 25 fo r trim and accessories made by

t

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t


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S-22-P-l I I

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S-114-P-9

S-113-P-9

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S-42-P-12 I I

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S-212-P-3 *Pockets *Flap

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S-65-P-19

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S-41-P-12

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20-P-5

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S-611-P-20

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2x

& accessories

tmade

S-423-P-17 S-69-P-20 _..... S-422-P-17 Under *Pockets *Flaps ,..__ ,. . , _ '--. . . - - - - - --4 , -1 ·- ._.I *Waistband ~t *Fly NOTE: For under collar 1 make ~·1-{.d-'f

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--

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Under

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2X

f f f '

f f f f

f *Belt f *Fly

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't

r *Flap

1'Si' \ I

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F

t

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S-710-P-23 *Pockets

B

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S-422-P-17

----

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t

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Pt

• I

fmeR&urements finstead of ISunbursts.

----1 ----~ ___ _ --

pattern

~"

by

.8

t

..___._..::::i t

narro\-Ter in width

S-14-P-6

5-11.:.P-6

t I

25


• 't

• F

2x

2x

lx

2x

-- -r

*Belt

I I I

"'

>< 1'1

a

I I

t

S-110- P- 8 I

~ .-..~ ,._. . . . . ~ . _ , , . . _ . 49> .._.. ~ .._.. ......

S-612-P-20 ...-...-1.-""---~

....-----N

x

'•

tr;::-:--------4..--=~~~ J1 r- i ', L_J

I

~

N~ I1

~

f f

t t

t

I I

t

S-49-P-14

*Casing \

r

I

I

'-

...J

F

I

----

S-27-P-2

S- 23-P-l For knits

'tt

Neck measur1 ment + ~ " easement.

F

t

Sl

- •

n, I

t f S-68-P-19 • f 2X •• t *Loops x t . .------ - - . . *Fly ,-*Pockets I

I

c:.

I

2x

~

\,... _ _ _ _ -t

3-28-P- 2

t I

• +

r-1

'I

Pt t F' I

-) ____ _

B

-=-==-x-=--=___ t.. - 1

::..'7ZX::--:

S-45-P-13

S-46-P-13

2x

--Pt

2x

------

-Pt

S-613- P-21 .

NOTE: For under collar.

B

make pattern Ji;" narrower in width.

F

*Pockets *Flaps

I t

t t t

I I

*\~aistbMd

Pl

f f

t t

S-713- P-23

---- ..J

·-----

S-26-P-2

I

~~~~~~~~~~~-

,~

B

2x

I I I

I

f

t

,

I

I

ft

N I

I

'

--,----------

XI

*Pockets

I

N

of Stm.burets.

I I

J:

,__ _

I

e--- - I

*NOTE: Refer to pafleEe-24. 25f for all trim and accessories made by measurements instead

S-4 10-P-14

I

l

B

I

t

~----~~=-~"''

I

• t t ,___::::::a___ . :_ __:

...

I ~ ~

l

t

~

{ 1

~

S-18-P-8

tt

~

m-.;..~

I I

I I

S-19-P-8

I I

t

*Waistband *Fly

l 13 l

''

I I

S-422-P-17 S-423-P-l 7 - -----t *Pockets

*Pockets

F

I

I

' '' '' 'f '

Pt

t

I

t t

_....

B

S-422-P-17

*Fly *Waistband

I

Pt

B

*Loops

t

·--·

I

Pt

• ••

t"'-r:,.,...,.,,

*Belt *Loops

2x S-47-P-13

-----

2x S-48-P-13

---

.·Cl

t •

Under Upper S-712-P-23


I

,

\

B

I

I I

I I

F

*Pockets *Fly *Loops *Belt

t-

2x

I-

1 I I

I I

--

'•·

*Pockets *Flaps

I I

t t t t t t t t t

B

I

I I I

Zx

--

--

----

----

~

S-86-P-10

S-87-P-ll

t

S-616-P-21

t

SI

F

2"

S-412-P-14 Pt B

Pt F

2x

-- - -------

• • • • ----. .

~

F

-- --

I

I I

Sh.

Sh

F

I

F

2x

I

--------

-- -

Sl

F

*Pocket *Flap *Sash *Lo,. ,

2x

S-419-P-16

s!td~

- - -- .

." ' .

I Band

zxI

S-617-P-21

*1~11

hem

allowed


I

*Pocket

I I I I

.....

*Pocket

B

I

l t I

I I

I

I

I I I I

2x

I

S-223-P-ll

------- -

--- - --

2x

-------

- --- --

-------.. zxl •

I

I

I I I

I I

I

I

I I

I

I

5-216-P-4

I

I

- -- -

--

S-718-P-23

Cl

PL

B &

I I

S-215-P-4

I I

I

F

S-216-P-4

B

I

I I I I

I

F

I I

-------

I

Sl

F SJ

F

F

Pl

2x

B & F

----S-615-P-21

2x

t

lx

------- S-411-P-14

-----

2x

S-615-P-21

-------

z.' l

~·Jt:

\

Neckband

S-411-P-14

*NOTE: Refer to page Ee- 24, 25 for all trim and accessories made by measurements instead of Sunbursts.

Cf

NOTE: For under collar, make pattern !.,;" narrower in widtll

S-617-P-21

•rocket *FlAp *Sa&h *Loops

Under Sl

F

F SI

I

2x

-------

I

t

F

B

--

2x

--

:B l

I I

--

2x

--- -F Zx

- --

I

Band 2x

I

I

s-ss-P-11 S-87-P-ll

S-86-P-10

l Band 2x I

S-88-P-ll


*Pocket

*Belt

.

't t 't

*Flap *Loop..-

S-610-P-20

S-210-P-3

-

t t

S-81-P-7

-...... 2 ...

I

' --------• • 't c~1~2x~~ t l Under~ I ,... ... ..... t f f ______________________ ,

l

I

t

I

---- .......

*Pocket

I

I

S-84-P-10

I

I

*Flap

F

S-73-P-22 ._.

I

....

J;~t~!'":::_'"'\•l

S-83-P-10 :ning only

~

~

~ ~

make pattern ~11 narrower in Width.

'

+

'

.._,. ..__. • 1llOTE: For under collar, ~ ~

S-73-P-22

SI

&

f

t f

S-67-P-19 lX

- - - --

Under•

I~.-.~~~~~~ \

tJ\C:::t..>'°x--;s:-61 o-P-20

·.....w'

-l:X - ........ I

I

I

· •· .. ;. ·.;J' . S~83-P-10

l

measurements instead of Sunbursts.

' LininP

S-81-P-7 *Flap

I

S-7 3-P-22

ly

t

'

• t ~~ t f Under* f

-----------------------'t

t

S-74-P-22

t

S-75-P-22 + Under

'\

t t t t t t

B* (

--

..

• 't

See Note 2

. . ........

~;~::-

F

"

S-82-P-7

I

'I

S-81-P-7

*Pocket *Flap

Cl

t

I

S-610-P-20

for nll

·---------------

*Pocket

I

F

f •NOTE: Refer to page Ee-24. 25 f trim and accessories made by f

'

..... ~~~~~~

F

S-81-P-7

t

't t

~t ~-vi~td-B

t

*Pockets *Flap

''

S-74-P-22 l.lppe r

t ..

S-75-P-

. ~l':~X

.. ..,

, r

i"fi;. . •.

··:

·•...,

'

.

Under*

S-610-P-20


"*Use for shirt with tail only - Narrow hem allowed.

Mens

'SUNBURST p(Jffern (JffS

j

7

8

NOTE: l~" hem

allowed, *Use for

straight ..0

0

'° ,_.

bottom shirt only. 1~"

hem allowed.

.,D iJ'I

...!>

-l

w

S- 22

s-21

NOTE: l Js" hem

NOTE: l~" hem

allowed.

allowed.

NOTE:

For Knits,

S-23

S-24

1

F T-

F

6

~le-I


<X)

~o

NOTE: ll:i" hem allowed.

N

NOTE; For Knits.

S-27

s-2s 00 M

NOTE: Add hem.

NOTE: Add hem.

c;•\

~ VI-te-2 N


~ Use

for short jacket

r

only , F

~ Use for lon ~

F

jacket

only. NOTE: l~" hem

NOTE: Narrow hem allowed.

allowed.

Q:)

0

S-29

CIO

U"I

N

N

I

T

T

0

F

~r

F •

tt

NOTE : Nat'row hem allowed, •

CP

co

0

CP

i*1 Vl-{,e.-J


T T

z

F B

£1

9

g.5 13

14 . 5

OT

NOTE : l~" hem allowed .

NOTE : l~" h e m al l oue d.

~! Vl-t,e-4


T

8 11

B

NOTE: Narrow hem allowed • •

Use

for curved

yoke only.

th Use for short

't' jacket

only.

*Use for long jacket only.

0

g

.;.

w •

U\

•~ CX> 0

fnlri~~ Vl-c..,e-5


S-11 I

** .... r-t

t'""

~ ~ OIQ~ !)IC) ::>

ap1s

~,z

RI 0

a

~

•"i!

t'l c.i •• I-'

s.

0...

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RI

-

a. •

g ::>0 .... .... '< '< I I .... ....RI RI HI

NOTE: l" hem allowed •

F

HI

'"' p.'"'

fl)

.....

L

~

'1

•'"'

....0..en

0-. O'-

RI

c:P 0

-J

-

J> >ft

':P

0

s-12

-l

"'

S-14

NOTE: l"

hem allowed•

T

F F

NOTE: l"

hem allowed.

~t

....,

V1-{,e-6 ""


ll) â&#x20AC;˘

.... "'" S-16 T

NOTE: 111 hem hem nllowed.

B

NOTE: 1" hem allowed.

s-1s

*Use for drawing lining

*Use for drawing lining

only.

only.

-.

</:( Lining only-

* Use ft)r linin g on ly

lef t & rt. side. *Lining only-

lef t side.

S-82

'

....1\1

i:J

U"l

NOTE: Make lining 3/4 11 shorter than coat.

Cl

~ ~

*

lt) lt)

~

r-

f'J

N (\")

ll) IJ)

NOTE: 2" hem allowed

4> Short

leng t h

only ,

NOTE : 2"

allol.:ed .

S-81 ~!1tke

NOTE : linin ~

â&#x20AC;˘

3/ 4"

shorter than coat.

*

NOTE: Cut facing t o join lininr, with pleat f olded closed. /

NOTE: Cut collar point facing ~" longer & taper in to waist and center front.

~I lll-{,e-7 Use for sl1ort length only. <I>


1.1"1

1

T

B

S-18 S-17

S-19

T

7


T

B

N

N

0 N

~t

t"fil-{,e-9


NOTE: Cut !acing to join linlng v ltl1 pleRt folded closed.

S- 83

I

lfuse for lining only "¢rPleat

NOTE: Cut collar point of facing !;" longer and taper into waist and center front. KOTE: Make lining

374 11 shorter than

COftt ,

NOTE: 2 11 hem allo~1ed.

OT

t

ttl Use for short length only.

S-86

NOTE: Make lining 3/4"

shorter than robe.

S-84

10.5

w

0

NOTE: l~" hem allowed, â&#x20AC;˘

* Use for long robe

only ,

~t

Vl-{,e-10

<Puse for

short robe only .


T

T B

NOTE: l~" hem allowed,

Sr

S-85

\ Make lining

NOTE: 3/4" shorter than .J-a..-robe,

....

(j)t;se for short robe only, •

It use for lonr. robe only. NOTE:

1~

11

hem allowed

NOTE: ~take lining 3/4" shorter than robe,

S-88

S-87

T t7. 5 18

F

23 •

NOTE:

..... ;:Jo

8

l~"

hem allowed,

NOTE: }take lining 3/4" shorter than robe.

Gt>

~flit Vl-{,e-11 Use for short robe only. '/t Use for long robe only.

Q> Use

for short robe only. 1tuse for long robe only.


NOTE: l~" hem allowed.

0

M

T T

ll

13

F

Pt

S-41

S-42 NOTE: l~' hem

allowed.

NOTE: Top of pattern is 211" below waistline.

NOTE: 1~" hem

NOTE: 1~" hem

allowed.

allowed.

S-44

s-43 1

B

r1

Pt

tl \t

1"

Pt

6.s

12

~t vl-{,e-12


NOTE: 1" hem allowance on knickers.

NOTE: 5 11 has been added to finished length of shorts for cuff fold and turn under.

I.fl

T T

S·r r

NOTE: 511 has been added to finished length of shorts for cuff fold and turn under.

8

St 0£

S-45

10

16 F

NOTE : l" hem allowance on knickers.

S-46

...... 0

0

*Use for shorts only.

I

\

*Use for shorts only •

.....

0

~

u

°'U

I/')

~

u () IO

S-47

s-48

NOTE: l '1" hem allowed.

NOTE:

l~"

hem allowed.

h9

B F

8\.f

h l{. 5

::,.. Vi

IA

';1"

;:r

....~

O'

~ er-

t::r ~ c

::r

.....

~ V"I

~

U'I

......

i*· V/-{,e-t)


NOTE: 2~" above waistline allowed for turnover casing.

0

NOTE:

'"

NOTE: 2~" above waistline allowed r~r turnover casing. NOTE: 1'1;" l1em allowed

l~"

hem

allowed T

T b

Pt

fl

lJ

B

15

F

z~

Pt

S-49

* Use for shorts only.

*Use for

shorts only.

NOTE: hem

l~"

allot'/Cd.

n44

h 6

lf>

OS

LS

NOTE: 1" hem allowed. NOTE: l~" tu mover

allowed

~t

waist.

â&#x20AC;˘

-\'Use for

Jumpshorts only,


LO

I.fl •

rv .....

N

I

42.

-

-

.....

48

NOTE: 1!,t;" allowed for fold over at waist ,

$?

' T

pt

B

"'O .....

I f'v

~t

Vl-(,e-15


"'•

0

I.('\

T

T

NOTE: Add Pt F&B

1 11 for

fold over at waist,

B

. . . - - - - - - . - . - - - -- ---- ... c - . . - . . . . . . . . . . aaaaOODDOOCID01:1~ - ...... c ~

~

NOTE: l~"

allowed for fold over at waist.

T

,

,-

o .:i

s·2r

Ll

PlB

-2

s..z~

N C'-

13

8. 15

s·s

~ fJTii"{,e-16

l


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o"'Y

t

('\')

'f

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*

~Welt pocket only Bell Bottoms - high fron t leg. lo'" back leg (l~" hem

allowed.)

0

Straight pants only. (No Cuff ; finished length + 2'" hem allowed . ) (For Cuff ; add 2" to fold line for cuff - add l~" more to turn under . ) • Jean cut Be 11 Bot toms (No cuff• 2" ll~m allowed.) NOTE~ All styles use knee points, NOTE: Waistband allowance l~" .

pl

11

13

..., .... ::I ....en

T

6 Pt

-

:I' (I)

0.

U'

(I)

::I

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SI

French Cuff

s-63

S-61

T

st - Cf

S-62 Plain Cuff

S-64

a-V' Cl:> Vl

CP A

~

'1

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~t I-{,e-18

ln ......,

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S-65

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S- 67

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\\

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20

zi

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IJ1 -.!)

O" N

O' .i:.

~t

Vl-{,fl-19


NOTE: Lining cut ~"

shorter.

S-69

~OTE: l~"

hem allowed. T

T

Of•gr Sl

NOTE:

Sl

l~"

hem

allowed.

.t.. -

(\J

20

29

~t

Vl-f,e-20


\,('I

...D .-I

\()

.....

co

N

T I... l

2 \ .S

Sl Cf

rv .....

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NOTE : 1 s" hem 1

allowed .

T 21

Sl

'7"l.

NOTE : l !z II hem allowed. O"

""

-

( 'J

'7'

'° ~

0

~I

Vl-Ce-21


,.....

,.,

("l

M

.. r-M

~

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T

..-4

T

p

LI

CI

L

S-71

s-12

S-73

CL

r-

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«:t-

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~

N N

("l ("l

"<:f' TO

0 N

...,~

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Cl

Upper

Cl

S-74

S-76

S-75

,... N

T Ci.

Cl

~t

Vl-{,e-22

S-77

S-78

S-79


co N

T

L1 Sl Cf

.....

-1

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NOTE : 11~" hem allO\~d •

T 21

SJ 51

2

NOTE :

l~"

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-

N

~t

VI-[e-21


,.-t

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S-72

S-73

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S-74

S-76

S-75

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S-77

S-78

S-79


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