Styles 114 Subcultures
122 Aesthetics
One of the most profound changes in the innovation and consumption of fashion in the twentieth century was the powerful force exerted by styles that came up from the street instead of filtering down from on high. Street cultures adopt apparel outside of the “proper” sphere of fashion (costume, workers’ uniforms, sports gear) to create an authentic identity in times of social upheaval or disaffection. Even the dandy, whose dress draws from upper-class sartorial traditions, uses style as a tool to stake his place within shifting social mores. Distinguishing themselves from the conventions, and sometimes realities, of the day, these style tribes form communities of shared values that are expressed in what they wear. Although subcultural styles are by nature separate and alternative, in the twentyfirst century they have become central to fashion, not only cycling through the mainstream as trends du jour but also forming part of the high/low sampling that increasingly defines how consumers dress.
Successful fashion brands build audiences based on the underlying consistency of a design sensibility, regardless of where a collection goes in a particular season. This aesthetic layer captures the essence of a design practice and speaks in a clear, consistent voice to the consumer. Each descriptor (minimal, classic, romantic, sporty, urban, postmodern, deconstructivist, antifashion) sets certain creative boundaries for designers to help ensure that elements do not cloud the purity of their core message—unless, of course, the blur is intended.
Anglomania by Vivienne Westwood, Spring/Summer 2009 Photo by firstVIEW.
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