CALCULATING GAUGE ➻ Once you have all of these measurements, make sure you crochet a tension swatch. In order to calculate the gauge properly, you should work in the round. Your tension can change greatly in the round versus working back and forth in rows. To check your tension using the main pattern of the leg or foot: • 24ch (or more if the main pattern repeat needs more stitches, but don’t work less than 24 stitches for accuracy) with the required hook and yarn. • Join with a slip stitch to form a ring. • Work the leg pattern for 20 rows. • Measure the circumference of the swatch. • Divide the measurement by the number of stitches in each round (so if you have 24, use 24). This will give you the number of stitches per cm/inch. If you have fewer stitches than the pattern calls for, try again with a smaller hook. If you have more stitches, increase the hook size. Repeat this until you achieve the gauge required for the pattern.
MATHS ➻ Most crocheters don’t want to do the maths. Unfortunately, socks are one of the few garments that have to ﬁt “just right.” If they don’t, you won’t wear them. Why put in all that time if they don’t ﬁt? Socks really don’t have much maths involved. There can be a bit of trial and error though if the heel is narrower than the rest of the foot. In that case, you may want to take these measurements and fuss with them even more, and there may be a lot of increasing or decreasing as the case may be. But for most people, these formulae should be enough. To determine the number of stitches needed for cuff of sock • (Measurement “A”) x (Number of stitches per cm/in) = Number of stitches needed for cuff To determine the number of stitches needed for foot • (Measurement “D”) x (Number of stitches per cm/in) = Number of stitches needed for foot To determine the number of stitches to start heel • (Number of stitches around foot) x (50%) = Start of heel using heel ﬂap and gusset • (Number of stitches around foot) x (60%) = Start of heel for medium to wide foot using short row heel • (Number of stitches around foot) x (40%) = Start of heel for narrow foot, using any type of heel
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NEGATIVE EASE ➻ Because socks are made to be tighter than the actual foot measurement, when selecting a size, make sure your “Finished Measurements” are 0.5–1cm/¼–½in less in circumference than your actual foot / leg circumference. www.insidecrochet.co.uk 39