Issue 06 | The Atlantic Issue
The Essence of Living Locally
- A MAGAZINE FOR NEW ENGLAND -
THE ATLANTIC ISSUE EDITORIAL TEAM MANAGING EDITOR Mandi Tompkins FOUNDING PARTNERS Ashley Herrin & Jenn Bakos
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS & PHOTOGRAPHERS Jeremy Sewall Heather Caulfield Mills Chelsea Moore Yetta Reid Jon Secord Karen J. Covey Judd Duclos Desiree Spinner Greer Rivera
A SPECIAL THANK YOU TO... Amy Reed, Luna Moss Island Creek Oyster Farm Chef Jeremy Sewall & Row 34 Enea Bacci, Lobster Landing Maine Coast Sea Vegetables Chef Matt Louis, Moxy Wellfleet Sea Salt
GET IN TOUCH SUBMISSIONS firstname.lastname@example.org GENERAL INQUIRIES email@example.com MANDI Mandi@tellnewengland.com ASHLEY Ashley@tellnewengland.com JENN Jenn@tellnewengland.com
A NOTE FROM THE EDITOR
A distant foghorn creeps into my consciousness. I blink my eyes open, prompted by a cool breeze fluttering the aged white curtains. I left the window open last night and the familiar smell of salt and damp moss rolls in. The cottage creaks to life as my family emerges from their beds and the scent of coffee quickly permeates the house, luring me into the day. After wandering downstairs I grab my favorite old brown mug from the cupboard and commence my morning routine of coffee on the front porch. A misty fog hovers over the field out front, rays of light struggling to shine through. I can’t yet see the ocean, but I know its there, waves lapping, boats bobbing in the mist. A pang of worry hits — will it rain today? My fears quickly subside as the morning wears on, and the sun wins the battle against the fog. Today will be a beach day. This is how each day begins in my happy place. When I awake in my island hideaway on the coast of Maine, there is a sense of calm followed by excitement. There are only a certain number of days like this in New England each summer, so each one is special. The Atlantic coast in New England winds for over 6000 miles of tidal shoreline. That’s almost double the shoreline of California. In the Atlantic issue we celebrate each and every one of those miles. The people who wake each day to breath in the salty breeze — the food they find, make and eat, the adventures they take, and the life they’ve built. We invite you to join us as we learn from each of these special moments. On behalf of the t.e.l.l. New England team,
Mandi Tompkins, Managing Editor
THE ATLANTIC ISSUE: TABLE OF CONTENTS
AN OCEAN'S BLESSING
MEET YOUR FARMER:
HOW TO: SHUCK AN OYSTER
An afternoon with Amy Reed
ISLAND CREEK OYSTERS
Learn how to properly shuck
of Luna Moss.
A visit with Island Creek
an oyster in five steps.
ROW 34: A WORKINGMAN'S
INDULGE: PAN ROASTED
WILD STRIPED BASS
BLOCK ISLAND ON FOOT
Exploring the popular oyster
Chef Jeremy Sewall of Row 34
Exploring this beautiful
bar in Boston's Fort Point
shares with us this locally
island located off the Rhode
TASTE OF NEW ENGLAND:
(SOME OF) NEW ENGLAND'S
TASTIEST LOBSTER ROLLS
MAINE'S NIGHT SKY
Getting to know Enea Bacci's
A small sampling of some of our
Photographing the Maine
restaurant, Lobster Landing.
coast at night with Jon Secord.
TRAVEL GUIDE: NEW BEDFORD
INDULGE: BAKED SCALLOPS
A PORT CITY RESTAURANT
Exploring this Massachusetts
WITH TOASTED BREAD CRUMBS
port city and historical land-
A delicious recipe using this
A look at this American-tapas
mark in our community.
fresh produce pulled from New
style restaurant based in
Portsmouth, New Hamshire.
OUR EDIBLE OCEAN
INDULGE: NEW ENGLAND
INDULGE: KELP WITH RICE
Exploring some of the tasti-
CORN & DULSE CHOWDER
Spicing up a simple dish
est sea vegetables our oceans
A tasty spin on this New
using the over-abundant sea
have to offer.
England classic using Dulse.
MEET THE MAKER:
WELLFLEET SEA SALT
SEA SALT CORDIAL
Explore Martha's Vineyard
Meet the duo behind Cape
A regional cocktail packed
with Desiree Spinner of La
Cod-based company, Wellfleet
with New England's boldest
"Out on the islands that poke their rocky shores above the waters of Penobscot Bay, you can watch the time of the world go by, from minute to minute, hour to hour, from day to day, season to season."
AN OCEAN'S BLESSING AN AFTERNOON WITH AMY REED OF LUNA MOSS PHOTOGRAPHS BY JENN BAKOS & ASHLEY HERRIN
the joys and most amazing aspects of running t.e.l.l. New
England is having the opportunity to meet so many talented individuals who call New England home. Our small corner of the country is overflowing with makers, doers, and entrepreneurs who pump creativity and craft into our economy. And every opportunity to meet an individual who helps make New England so unique is an opportunity to be thankful for. Luna Moss easily falls into this category. Owned and operated by Amy Reed, Luna Moss is a blossoming floral design studio, who, as Amy describes, puts the ""wild" back into flowers." A New England native, Amy spent the past eighteen years on the west coast. But now, she's back in New England and is ready to showcase her talents. Though she has been gone for so long, Amy's love for New England has unwavered. Her excitement to be back is evident, saying "I'm still really figuring New England out again, almost re-learning it a little bit, which is really cool." Amy's talents have lent a hand to a multitude of weddings and events over the years. A self-proclaimed romantic, Amy emphasized her passion for making things look pretty. "What I'm most passionate about is creating a beautiful setting for love." Âť - 15 t.e.l.l. NEW ENGL AND
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Luna Moss largely does weddings. A romantic at heart, Amy has said; "what I'm most passionate about is creating a beautiful setting for love."
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Though brides may request flowers based on certain colors, settings or themes, Amy's work typically relies on flowers that are in season. They are the freshest, and in-turn last longer, but also because she loves to support local growers. Now that she's back in the North Shore, Reed has found a friend in Aster B. Aster B is located in Essex, MA and is a chemical-free sustainable flower farm providing gorgeous, seasonal flowers to weddings and events across New England. When we asked Amy what her favorite flower that's currently in season is, she was seemingly stumped — as you would assume a floral designer would be. "Every season, it's like "oh yeah, I forgot about anemones!" And every season I get so excited. Then I get sad to lose one, but then there's always a new one." Mentally sorting through all her favorite flowers currently in season, Reed touched upon grasses, especially bursting grass, Lily of the Valley, Poppies and Columbine. For Amy, it's hard to pick a favorite. We met with Amy one Sunday in August at Fort Foster in Kittery Point, Maine. We spent the afternoon observing Amy as she delicately crafted some amazing bouquets and arrangements for this issue, pulling inspiration from the landscape as she went. Over the course of the afternoon, Amy created a sea-inspired tablescape, a beautiful ocean garland, and a floral bouquet for the Atlantic — a blessing of sorts. "The old tradition of the blessing of the sea really inspired me," Amy said. "I started thinking about how I wanted to get things that looked like sea creatures, and grasses. I came to the ocean a lot and looked (for inspiration)." Even the smallest things lent inspiration to Amy. "When I saw what Aster had popping up, even her type of Dahlias reminded me of a sea anemone and it kind of took off from there." »
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Amy gets a lot of the flowers that she works with from Aster B, a chemical-free sustainable flower farm in Essex, Massachusetts.
For many, the ocean has a sort of indescribable draw. It's infiniteness and vastness likely plays a roll, as well as the captivating rise-and-fall of the tides, the pounding of the waves and the soothing music it creates. For Amy, the ocean lent an inspiration to her work that few are able to capture. The artistry that went into each piece embodied the spirit and beauty of the Atlantic. For many, being able to master their trade with such effortless creativity is what most seem to strive for. For Amy, this was seemingly captured so effortlessly and with such ease but with a remarkable perfectness. To us, Amy Reed has mastered the art of creating magic with the flowers and plants that the soil has given us. As we stood on the shore of Maine's coast and watched Amy weave flowers in and out of sea grasses, sea urchins and barnacles, we realized yet again, how thankful we are to have the opportunity to meet such an amazing individual â€” the talented force behind Luna Moss. And here, at the ocean's edge where strangers met only a few hours before and formed a bond from the roots of New England, we realized this was the blessing brought forth from the depths of the Atlantic. Âť
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Amy gathered inspiration from the ocean to create the arrangements seen in Issue 06, even taking notes from sea urchins, seaweed and grasses.
MEET YOUR FARMER: ISLAND CREEK OYSTER FARM
STORY BY MANDI TOMPKINS PHOTOGRAPHS BY ASHLEY HERRIN
GROWING THE TASTE OF NEW ENGLAND, ONE OYSTER AT A TIME There is no doubt that seafood has helped shape the legacy and culture of New England. Travellers come to the region for much more than the foliage, ocean views, and historical reenactments. They come for the unique cuisine that has been served and perfected since the time of our earliest settlers. The culinary story of New England could not be told without mention of a more recent addition to our regional menu — oysters. Island Creek Oysters (ICO), a purveyor of fine oysters based in Duxbury, Massachusetts, has brought the New England tradition of farming into the Atlantic. The farm began its long journey to becoming one of the country’s finest oyster wholesalers in 1992. This is when Skip Bennett, founder and owner of ICO, started growing oysters in Duxbury bay on a very small scale. Bennett was a true oyster pioneer in New England. At the time, this aquaculture concept was very new to this part of the country due to the cold environment. Typically, oysters were grown on the west coast and the Gulf of Mexico where the water is warmer. It wasn’t until 2001 that ICO saw its first sizeable crop and had more oysters than they knew what to do with. At this time, very few restaurants in Boston even served oysters, so the economic environment for an oyster farm was not ideal. Bennett,
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in a true act of desperation, started driving the oysters up to Boston where he hoped to sell directly to the few oyster bars in existence. His first stop was East Coast Grill in Cambridge, where he knocked on the back door and came face-to-face with the owner, who immediately saw the value in this arrangement, told Bennett he would take whatever he had. This was the birth of the ICO wholesale business. Today, ICO sells to over 450 restaurants around the country. About a third of their business is in Boston, a third in New York, and the remainder fans out around the country.
FROM SEED TO TABLE Island Creek Oyster has found the perfect home to grow oysters from seed to table – Duxbury Bay. We were lucky enough to take a tour of the farm on a perfect July afternoon, where we got a sneak peak into the life of an oyster. Our tour guide for the day was President of ICO and Duxbury native, Chris Sherman, along with his dog Scoter. The life of an oyster at the farm begins in the hatchery, so naturally this is where we started the day. Since Duxbury Bay does not host a native oyster population, this is where the farm gets all of its seed. While the cold, nutrient rich, salty water of the bay is perfect for maturing oysters, it is too cold for spawning, a process that needs at least 85 to 90 degree water to occur. Duxbury bay is a barrier beach, or a protected bay, which keeps the water excessively cold — about 64 degrees in July versus Wellfleet’s 86 degrees. »
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Tiny oysters straight from the upwellers. They will need to grow to a quarter inch before they are ready to make the big journey to the nursery.
There are only a few hatcheries that exist in the country, making ICOs process truly unique. As Sherman describes, “It’s the most science-y, Willy Wonka thing we do at the farm.” This is where they bring in the “handsome devils” for spawning, or adult oysters that have been hand selected for their quality. These oysters are typically thick-shelled, deep cut, and have fluted shells that the farm has identified as more disease resistant. Oysters are sequential hermaphrodites, meaning they switch from male to female throughout their life. “This makes the spawning process particularly challenging”, says Sherman. ICO also grows its own food in the hatchery, six types of algae that keep 180 million babies (or larvae) alive each season. It’s key that the farm starts with as many babies as possible because at each step in the process they do lose some. When its time to move the babies from the hatchery to the upwellers in the Bay, there are typically only 5 or 6 million remaining. At the end of this stage they have just started to build their shells out of calcium carbonate, and are about the size of a flake of ground pepper. Before the oysters are taken to their final home in the nursery, they live in upwellers for 8 to 12 weeks. An upweller is a trough system that lives underneath the ICO docks in the Bay. The system consists of a trough running down the middle, with four silos running down either side. A pump sits at the bottom of the trough and pulls Bay water through the system continuously throughout the summer, giving the oysters the constant flow of water and nutrients they need to grow. At this stage in the process, the oysters double in volume daily. They go out to the nursery when they are about a quarter inch in size. »
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After they’ve reached this key size, the oysters take a ride out to the nursery where they take up residence in one of the farms many cages. Each cage becomes home to about 6 bags of young oysters, or around 6000 oysters total. There are 350 cages in the Bay currently and the oysters will stay in these cages for another two to three months. The last step in the process is planting the oysters directly on the Bay floor, where they live out their lives. ICO plants the oysters on their allotted ocean-bottom acreage where they remain all through the fall and winter months. The oysters go dormant in the winter, meaning they don’t eat, filter, or grow, but ICO does continue to harvest during these months. After 18 months, and at longest after two and a half years, ICO harvests the oysters. They use two methods – hand picking and dragging during extreme low tide when there are acres of mud flats. On a typical day, the ICO farmers can harvest 5,000 to 6,000 oysters, which keeps their many restaurants happy. About 25 percent of harvested oysters are deemed unworthy of being an Island Creek. Those oysters are thrown back between the cages on the Bay floor for self-correcting. An oyster can actually change their shape when they are given a slightly different environment. Once the oysters have been harvested, they are culled (sorted to find the perfect ICO oysters), washed, counted, and bagged in standard units for chefs. »
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The perfect Island Creek Oyster shape is round and deep cut with fluting.
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Our ride out to the nursery in Duxbury Bay. Scoter was leading the way.
SHELLED ENVIRONMENTAL WARRIORS A crucial environmental characteristic for raising oysters is the flow of water. A constant flow of water is key, as this is how oysters eat. An adult oyster in the Bay will actually filter about 50 gallons of water a day. This also makes them true environmental warriors. Oysters clean the water, remove nitrogen when they feed, and help reduce the production of carbon dioxide by incorporating carbon in their shells. Although oysters are making strides to clean the water around them, they aren’t immune to the effects of global warming. Recently, oyster farmers have been faced with yet another obstacle — ocean acidity. According to National Geographic, the introduction of massive amounts of carbon dioxide into the ocean is changing water chemistry. When this carbon dioxide dissolves, an acid is formed, and this leads to higher acidity that is proven to inhibit shell growth. This is a major problem for the oyster population, and part of the reason ICO created the hatchery. It helps to ensure that the farm constantly has a seed supply, something that couldn’t happen in Duxbury Bay with the increase in ocean acidity. »
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THE TASTE OF DUXBURY BAY ICO oysters have their own specific flavor profiles, something you can enjoy for yourself at many restaurants throughout New England. The flavor of an oyster is a snapshot of its natural conditions (salinity and temperature of the water) and the food they eat. Also, the lifecycle of the oyster has an effect on the taste. The farm grows and harvests two types of oysters, the traditional Island Creeks and Row 34s. In Duxbury Bay they have almost full ocean salinity, which is a stark difference from the marshy, brackish environment of many oyster farms. As such, the classic ICO flavor profile carries a burst of salt up front followed by nice vegetal and grassy flavors that are created by the green algae that they live on. They have a really strong sweet finish with a crisp, toothy bite. The Row 34s, a newer variety, have a teardrop shape, and they have a nutty, earthy taste with hints of mushroom. These oysters were originally created for Island Creek Oyster Bar, and then eventually became the namesake for Fort Point restaurant Row 34. Âť
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Scoter, Shermanâ€™s dog, proved herself to be a pro at finding oysters on the Bay floor.
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Island Creek oysters can be found all over New England, including their flagship restaurant, Island Creek Oyster Bar in the Fenway neighborhood of Boston. The farm sells their oysters to dozens of other restaurants in the area, all set to arrive within hours of harvesting. That means every oyster served under the ICO name is as fresh as possible. The best way to enjoy a fresh Island Creek oyster is to go directly to the source. Says Sherman, “Oysters are a representation of where they come from, and by visiting the farm, oyster lovers can see the sights and smell the smells that are associated with the ICO flavor.” ◊◊◊
The Island Creek Oyster nursery in Duxbury Bay. Thousands of oysters live in these cages.
HOW TO: SHUCK AN OYSTER STEP ONE Grab your shucking knife and make sure you are wearing an oyster shucking glove or holding a thick dishtowel.
STEP TWO Push the knife into the hinge (where the top and bottom of the oyster meet at the base) & wiggle.
STEP THREE Scrape the knife along the top shell and pop the oyster open.
STEP FOUR Loosen the muscle from the bottom shell.
STEP FIVE Eat oyster as-is, or add your favorite sauce.
ROW 34: A WORKINGMAN'S OYSTER BAR WORDS BY MANDI TOMPKINS PHOTOGRAPHS BY JENN BAKOS AND ASHLEY HERRIN
sweet taste is a representation
of its environment, taking on the essence of the world it lives and grows in. Fort Point restaurant Row 34 has embraced this very essence, curating ingredients from local farms to create simple, fresh seafood designed for the workingman. Opened in 2013 by Chef Jeremy Sewall and Skip Bennett, this industrial-chic eatery has quickly become the standard for contemporary New England seafood in Boston. No surprise coming from the master Chef behind Lineage and Island Creek Oyster Bar, and the founder and owner of Island Creek Oysters (ICO) (see page 28). Chef Sewall and Bennett met after Sewall moved back to Boston to take on the position of Executive Chef at Great Bay in 2002. Sewall visited the oyster farm shortly thereafter – the very first chef to do so – and the two naturally became partners. The name Row 34 comes from a special place, and a special oyster, in Duxbury Bay. The farm decided to experiment with a new type of oyster that would have a distinct and different flavor from their traditional Island Creek variety. At the time, the farm only had 33 rows of trays in the harbor, and these new oysters became the 34th row. Originally crafted for Island Creek Oyster Bar, these oysters eventually lent their name to the restaurant. »
Chef Jeremy Sewall preparing fresh Atlantic striped bass in the kitchen at Row 34.
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The modern and slightly industrial restaurant has already become a favorite amongst locals, with a little something for every palette. Oysters are, of course, a staple, but the lobster rolls are what have put them on the map. Served two ways, these delicacies force patrons to make a difficult decision – warm buttery goodness or the tried and true blend of mayo and celery? When asked which lobster roll he likes best, the Chef responded, “That’s like asking which kid I like better. I can’t answer that. I love both.” All the cuisine cooked by Sewall and his team at Row 34 is made with local and regional ingredients. He partners with several farms, including Ward’s Berry Farm in Sharon, Massachusetts and Buckle Farm in Unity, Maine. The restaurants seafood is delivered daily from Cape Cod, his cousin Mark who runs a lobster boat, and of course ICO. The oyster bar also pays homage to the beer lovers amongst us. They have an impressive list of local, unique beers that have been carefully chosen to accent the menu. They consistently carry beers from Trillium Brewing Company and Jack’s Abby, and often have other goodies up their sleeves. Try asking for their off-menu selection, you never know what you might get. The simple, seasonal nature of Chef Sewall’s recipes will come to life in his first cookbook 'The New England Kitchen: Fresh Takes on Seasonal Recipes' set to release this coming fall. The cookbook, which includes more than 100 New England inspired recipes and profiles of local producers, is based on the seasons. It will share the journey that our food takes from farm and fishery to the table in our favorite restaurants. Staying true to his belief in supporting local business, Chef Sewall’s book will be available in such small shops as Wellesley Booksmith, Brookline Booksmith, and Farm & Fable in Boston’s South End. Soon enough, recipes like Sweet Corn, Bacon, and Crab Chowder, and Maple-Brined Pork Rack with Apple and Leeks will be coming to life in kitchens around New England. ◊◊◊
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Fresh, local striped bass with seasonal vegetables and a drizzle of basil oil.
PAN ROASTED WILD STRIPED BASS RECIPE BY CHEF JEREMY SEWALL, ROW 34
CHEF Jeremy Sewall shares a simple, locally inspired summer recipe that even a novice chef could tackle. Made with the freshest ingredients, including locally sourced wild striped bass, this dish is sure to please your summer palette. Âť
PAN ROASTED WILD STRIPED BASS TOMATO, FAVA, RADISH SALAD WITH BASIL OIL INGREDIENTS 4 - 6 oz Bass portions, skin on
1 Cup Fava Beans, blanched & peeled
3 Tablespoon canola oil
¼ diced summer squash
6 sprigs thyme
2 Tablespoons thinly sliced radish
2 tablespoon butter
1 Cup arugula
2 Tablespoons olive oil
1 Lemon, cut in half
1 ½ Cups medley cherry tomatoes
Salt and Pepper, to taste
METHOD Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Season the bass with salt and pepper. Warm 3 tablespoons canola oil in a large, oven safe skillet over medium high heat. Gently place the bass portions in the pan, skin side down. Once they have been placed, do not move them. Allow the skin to become crispy – this should take about 90 seconds. Without moving the fillets, place the pan in the preheated oven for about 7 minutes, until cooked through. Remove from the oven and immediately place the butter and thyme. As the butter begins in melt, baste the fillets. Finish with a generous squeeze of lemon over each fillet. While the bass is cooking, warm the olive oil in a sautè over medium high heat. Place the tomatoes and squash in the pan and saute just until the tomatoes begin to release their juice. Remove from heat and fold in fava beans and radishes. Season with salt and pepper. Fold in arugula. Dress with basil oil and a generous squeeze of lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper as needed.
BASIL OIL INGREDIENTS 1 cup Basil, loosely packed 1 cup canola oil
METHOD Blanch the basil by dropping into a pot of salted boiling water for about 5 seconds, removing and then plunging into an ice bath. Squeeze out the excess liquid in a paper towel, and puree the basil and canola oil. Strain through a coffee filter, discarding any excess solids. Basil oil may be kept refrigerated for up to 10 days.
BLOCK ISLAND ON FOOT WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHY BY HEATHER CAULFIELD MILLS
the ferry approaches the shore, a row of Victorian hotels and
shop-fronts emerge from the fog as if frozen in time. It is the end of summer. The crowds have returned to the city and this town of New Shoreham, RI has a tantalizingly abandoned air about it. You disembark onto a two-way thoroughfare, Block Island’s “downtown.” Anything you might want — from a good book to fresh catch — is just a quick walk in either direction. At seven miles long and 3 miles wide, Block Island is the perfect car-less getaway, with hidden trails and remote sites best explored by walking or pedaling. There’s a powerful sense of history wherever you go on the Island — whether following an ancient stonewall through the woods, or lingering at the mound of mossy gravestones marked “Indian Cemetery.” Markers are situated on the edge of beaches and along roads throughout the Island, commemorating battles, shipwrecks, and Native American history. The architecture is also fascinating, crowned by two unique lighthouses, majestic Victorian resorts, and many lovely cottages. Visit the Historical Society or stop by Island Bound bookstore to learn local folklore and find out about haunted places like the Surf Hotel. Stop by Painted Rock (exactly what it sounds like), where Block Islanders have recorded personal and international events since 1962, and perhaps leave a message of your own. »
Part of Rhode Island, Block Island is located in the Atlantic Ocean about 13 miles south of the Rhode Island coast, and 14 miles east of Montauk Point on Long Island.
If sunbathing along one of the 17 miles of pristine and beautiful beaches isn't for you, you can find solace along the 30 miles of interconnected trails via the Greenway Trail system.
The Island has many acres of pre-
than their beds. There are plenty of
served land. You’ll spot wildlife like
places to eat, and important things –
deer and waterfowl as you hike trails
like ice cream, pastries, and coffee –
through dense forest, along open
are easy to find, too. For breakfast, sit
pastureland, or up sandy bluffs. Take
on the porch at Froozies, or join the
your bike on dirt trails or winding
hippie surfers at Juice N Java for earthy
roads where you’ll pass weather-beat-
specialties like blueberry-acai break-
en homesteads, old graveyards, and
fast bowls. There’s a small grocery
store for picnic essentials, and several
man’s Hollow, a deep valley of narrow,
convenient places to rent bikes or
brush-lined paths, where the air vi-
(mopeds). You’ll find the usual tourist
brates all around you with the hum of
shops, along with tiny boutiques like
bees hidden amongst the wildflowers.
The Glass Onion. If you wander into
For one of the best views on the Is-
the shed-like candy store, be ready
land, take a left off the ferry and head
for the cantankerous guy behind the
up the main road to Mohegan Bluffs,
counter to tell you a story or two. Try
an incredible cliff-face that rises
your hand at a game of chess outside
150 feet above the ocean. If you’re
the Island Free Library, and say hello
feeling brave, there’s an impressive
to the friendly cat usually dozing there
staircase that goes all the way down to
in the sun.
the beach. What I love about Block Island is its Back in town, there are a variety of
restaurants, inns, and shops above the
New England charm. I love that I can
ferry landing. The Farmer’s Market
leave my car on the mainland and yet
takes place on Saturdays all sum-
become so well acquainted with a
mer and into fall, and the Island hosts
place. During the long winter months
music, food, and art festivals through-
and into spring, perhaps you, too, will
out the year. Accommodations range
find yourself daydreaming about this
from luxurious to authentic Victori-
remotest of Atlantic islands - it’s time-
an – complete with precarious 3-foot
worn houses and quiet beaches, and
wide staircases, no A/C but an open
the wild beauty of its wind-twisted
window, and rooms only slightly larger
trees and overgrown meadows.
A TASTE OF NEW ENGLAND: LOBSTER LANDING
STORY BY CHELSEA MOORE PHOTOGRAPHS BY YETTA REID
EVERY morning before dawn, the tide rolls in, seagulls glide through the air in search of breakfast, and Enea Bacci arrives at the bay. Before the line of customers and the rush of the lunchtime crowd, he sits alone in his boat to breathe the salty air, perfumed with the smell of fish, and soaks up the beauty of the sea. He is, after all, the owner of Lobster Landing — a tiny shack on the Connecticut coast — and anyone who has been served one of his lobster rolls will agree: Bacci does it best. Meeting Bacci feels like being reunited with an old friend. His weathered face and brown hands tell tales about the years spent beneath the sun, working in the salty breeze. His sense of humor, infectious laughter, and love for life instantly categorize him as the sort of person most would want to count among their friends. And almost as if to further endear people to him, his Santa Clause beard, red bandana wrapped around his head, and smooth Italian accent help turn strangers into friends. Born and raised in Piedmont, Italy, Bacci’s passion for making good food began before he was even born. His family has been in the restaurant business for five generations, so when he was seven years old, it was nothing short of a rite of passage to learn how to peel potatoes. His grandfather taught him the art of cooking vegetables, a task he now navigates with ease. “Once you learn how to cook, it’s with you for the rest of your life,” he noted. “So is the passion for food.” His love for good food and his zeal for life is what led him across the Atlantic to open three restaurants. He left Italy and moved to Connecticut in the 1970s when he got a job in the publishing industry. »
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Ten years later, he realized his life was not headed in the direction he wanted, and decided to quit his job and start working for himself. Together with his wife, he opened Nina’s Diner, a successful small town diner offering eight dishes. His secret was only serving a few dishes, but perfecting each one. After he and his wife separated, he closed the restaurant and opened his own Italian place named Bacci. Years later, he and some friends were on a cruise to Nantucket and happened to sail through Clinton, Connecticut, where he spotted a for sale sign on a tiny shack on the water. It was here that he first dreamed up Lobster Landing, and knew the shack had to be his. He and the owner settled on a price, and in 1995, he started making lobster rolls. The 100-year-old shack embodies Bacci’s personal motto of living simply. Customers eat on plastic white picnic tables, and walk on a blanket of broken seashells. The name “Lobster Landing” is spelled out on the top of the shack, and the “o” has become characteristically crooked, a landmark of sorts in Clinton. And although the paint is chipping off the shack, it adds to the imperfect and endearing feel of the place, making people want to return time and time again. Lobster Landing sells (and arguably, has perfected) three dishes – lobster rolls, sausage and pepper rolls, and hot dogs. Bacci knows that some people are averse to seafood, so the last two items on the menu are designed for them. The shack sells soda, lemonade, and bottled water, but doesn’t have a liquor license. Instead they are BYOB, and have wine glasses to hand out to customers upon request. They love when people arrive with salads, fruit, beer, and wine in tote, ready to order a few lobster rolls and enjoy the view of the ocean. »
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Enea Bacci, the owner of Lobster Landing.
prefers to make big bowls of pasta,
between Lobster Landing and other
craft homemade paninis, or order a
lobster rolls is the meat and the
pizza for the whole team. He even
bread. Rather than warm the lobster
grows some of the ingredients in front
meat in butter, he melts the butter
of the shack. He loves that his team
on a double-boiler (to avoid acidity)
has become like a big family – “we are
and then drizzles it over the meat,
known as the Bacci people,” he said,
adding a squeeze of fresh lemon as
eyes twinkling as if he were about to
a finishing touch. His bread is deliv-
laugh at a joke. The familial nature
ered from Vermont several times a
of working at the shack has led his
employees to return each summer, with one girl even having worked
His team begins collecting lobster
every morning at dawn, and only
the way the team interacts reveals
fishes five miles south, east, and
the way they thrive on this little
west of the shack. Each roll contains
community built on the water.
the meat from one lobster. Lobster Landing is open eight months a year,
Bacci’s favorite part of his venture
from just after Easter to December
is the freedom that accompanies it.
31st so Bacci and his second wife
And, he added, the variety of people
Cathie divide the first three months
he meets from all over the country.
of the year between Florida and Italy, recharging from the busyness of the
“For me, to come down here is not
year. In the summer season, he and
work,” he said. “It is true happiness.”
his staff of ten students pull twelvehour days, working every day of the week. As the days grow shorter, hours are cut back and the outdoor dining area is situated underneath a
His happiness affects more than just his team, touching each person dining at the shack. Upon arrival, guests are introduced to lobster rolls
that do more than just fill bellies –
Although he cooks lobster every day,
over the country and seem to pos-
Bacci only eats it “once in awhile.” He
sess a quality few other places do.
they bring people together from all
Perhaps it’s Bacci himself and the way his personality colors the whole place. Or maybe it’s just summer fever. Call it what you will, but the shack has grown to become a source of pride in the state. Eating a lobster roll from Lobster Landing has an iconic connotation, and if people are vacationing, they will almost assuredly be brought to Clinton for a lobster roll or two. Twenty years ago, Chicago-resident Bill Graham met Bacci and has since become good friends with him. Graham’s family’s home is conveniently situated near Lobster Landing, his favorite place to eat. When he comes to visit, he often first drives to the shack to get a lobster roll and say hi to Bacci, and then afterwards, goes to his own house. Their playful friendship has been developed over years of laughter, a flood in the shack, and plenty of lobsters.
“FOR ME, TO COME DOWN HERE IS NOT WORK, IT IS TRUE HAPPINESS.” “I think people crave something timeless, and come down here to search for that,” Graham said. “People talk to each other here instead of looking at their machines.” As Graham took his first bite of lobster roll for the season, he closed his eyes, savoring the moment. “Perfect again!” he exclaimed. “Unbelievable! It’s like coming off the hot tennis court and taking that first drink of beer.” ◊◊◊
WHERE TO FIND: ( SOME MORE OF ) NEW ENGLAND'S TASTIEST LOBSTER ROLLS ME | FIVE ISLAND'S LOBSTER CO. At Five Islands Lobster Co. you can savor a fresh lobster roll while overlooking the active fishing wharf they call home. The lobster shack cooks up one of the best rolls on the East coast, but also serves up a quintessential Maine meal of lobster, steamers, and corn on the cob finished off with a scoop of Annabelle’s ice cream. And sometimes, if you’re lucky, you’ll even get to catch a show. After a hot, long weekend employees will swan dive and cannon ball off the wharf, bidding adieu to boaters pushing off after a delicious dinner.
MA | ALIVE & KICKING This lobster shack is actually more of a lobster garage. But don’t let the façade fool you. Alive and Kicking has the best lobster sandwich in New England – that’s right, sandwich. This hidden gem has kicked the traditional hot dog bun to the curb in favor of white bread generously coated with melted butter and hunks of sweet lobster meat. So the next time you have a hankering for this New England staple, head over the bridge to Cambridge. Just make sure you leave yourself a little extra time to find the place.
NH | BROWN'S LOBSTER POUND Brown’s offers up a true New England lobster pound experience, which has been enjoyed by locals since 1952. Patrons pick their lobster from the tanks to have them cooked, cracked, and served up fresh with warm butter. While known for their steamed lobsters, Brown’s also serves a delicious, simple, and affordable lobster roll that shouldn’t be missed. Located just a short drive off 95 in Seabrook, it’s the perfect spot to pick up a quick roll on your travels north.
RI | EVELYN'S DRIVE-IN If you have an urgent need for lobster, Evelyn’s is the place for you. The lobster shack, which has been featured on Diners, Drive-ins, and Dives with Guy Fiery, quickly whips up a number of New England delicacies. While they have a traditional lobster roll that’s off the charts tasty, we would also recommend the stuffies and clam cakes, which will provide the true Rhode Island experience.
PHOTOGRAPHING MAINE'S NIGHT SKY STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY JON SECORD
Pictured here is Seguin Island Lighthouse, located about 2.5 miles off of Popham Beach. This past summer, Jon was given the incredible opportunity to document this lighthouse at night, becoming one of the first photographers to capture the Milky Way from Seguin.
EVERY summer, thousands of people flock to the coast of Maine to enjoy it’s beautiful beaches, rugged coastline, eat at their favorite seafood shack, or visit the many lighthouses. For me, the coast of Maine has a different draw. As a landscape astrophotographer, one of my biggest challenges is finding an area free of light pollution from nearby cities and towns, which washes out detail in the night sky. The many peninsulas along the coast stretching out into the Atlantic Ocean give an unobstructed view south, with nothing for thousands of miles, offering the night photographer a perfect opportunity to capture the Milky Way. During the summer months, the core of our galaxy is visible to the south, and moves west over the course of the night. The best time for viewing the Milky Way is during the week of the new moon, about two hours after sunset. Earlier in the night, it will be visible arching lower over the horizon from South to North. By Midnight, it will basically be directly overhead. On my three week trip to Maine earlier this summer, it was clear for nine nights in a row — almost unheard of — and I would shoot from around 11pm-3am. After 3am, the Milky Way would be far enough west in the sky that light pollution from Brunswick and Portland would start to wash out my frame. There’s really nothing like going out in the middle of the night, photographing remote locations while the majority of people are asleep. Even popular places like Pemaquid Point Lighthouse, busy during the day, feel completely different at night. Since discovering night photography just under a year ago, a whole new world has opened up that I never even knew existed. »
NIGHT PHOTOGRAPHY: A BRIEF GUIDE People often ask me how they might go about capturing photos of the night sky, assuming they need advanced camera gear, costing thousands of dollars. Gear definitely plays a role, but getting great looking images of the night sky doesn’t necessarily mean an empty wallet. One of the most important factors is using a wide, fast lens. The length of your exposure will depend on how wide your lens is, and every second matters when trying to pick up detail in the sky and foreground at night. Because of the earth’s rotation, the stars will appear to trail after a certain point in your exposure, and the goal is getting pinpoint stars. The other essential feature for a lens is a wide aperture, which controls how much light is let in. Again, you’ll need as much light as possible here, so a lens that opens to f2.8, or larger, is optimal. For crop sensor cameras (Canon 60D, T3/4/5i, Nikon D3100, D5000, D7000, to name a few) I highly recommend the
Tokina 11-16 f2.8 lens. For full frame cameras (Canon 5D, 6D, Nikon D600, D800, etc) there are a few more options. The Rokinon 14mm f2.8, Tokina 16-28 f2.8, and Nikon 14-28 f2.8 are lenses that Iâ€™ve used and can recommend. Another factor, and arguably the most important, is finding an area free of light pollution. One of the things that surprised me the most when starting out, was how far I needed to travel to find a truly dark location. Areas that may seem dark to the naked eye, will show light pollution from nearby cities and towns as an ugly band above your horizon that will wash out detail in the sky. Plan on travelling at least 25-50 miles away from any major towns to find a suitable location. Try and find an area with some interesting foreground elements for your photos, which will add a scene of scale and depth to your images. Google Earth is one of my biggest resources, allowing me to explore an area and find a spot that will face south before making a long drive to a new location. Âť
Finding an area free of light pollution is crucial to the success of night photography. This photo demonstrates just how important that factor is.
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You will also absolutely need a tripod, to keep your camera still over the long exposures needed for night photography, and a flashlight. A few other things I like to have, but aren’t mandatory, are a cable release for my camera, snacks, a caffeinated beverage, a compass, and a fully charged phone. Now that you’ve got all the necessary gear, and have found a nice dark spot, the fun really starts. I like to arrive at a location a little early, about an hour after sunset, to scout out some foreground options. The coast of Maine has countless options — a lighthouse, tide pool, a sandy beach, that will add some interest to your photo. Once you’ve found a scene you like, set up your camera and tripod, making sure it is sturdy and will not move during your exposure. Before taking any photos, you’ll need to go into the camera menu and adjust some settings. I always shoot in RAW, not JPEG, because there will be much more flexibility in editing later. I also like to set my White Balance to Tungsten, which will be closer to the natural color temperature of the night sky. The last thing I do is turn on the camera’s 2-second timer, allowing for a delay between pressing the shutter and actually taking the exposure, which will reduce any vibrations in camera (you can also use a cable release for this). Next you’ll want to switch from auto to manual focus on your lens, otherwise your camera will endlessly search for something to focus on. Instead, manually focus your lens at infinity. I shoot in manual mode, starting off taking exposures at ISO3200, f2.8, 30 seconds, and adjust from there. Each scene will be different, with varying levels of ambient light, so I will either raise or lower my ISO based off those initial frames. »
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I recommend trying several different exposure settings for each scene, seeing what looks best to you. Once you get the hang of getting sky exposures down, you can also play with longer foreground exposures and blending them together later, or doing star trail photos. There are many good guides online for both. For many of the photos in this article, I shot exposures of up to 10 minutes, focusing on closer foreground objects, and blended them together with my sky frames. I will never forget the first time I looked on my camera screen and saw the Milky Way arching across the frame. In the past year, I have seen countless amazing things at night- the Northern Lights dancing across the sky, the Milky Way, meteor showers, beautiful moonrises and sets, and can’t think of a single time I didn’t enjoy a night under the stars. I hope this guide inspires you to try your hand at landscape astrophotography, go on your own night adventures, and bring back some photos to share. ◊◊◊
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Shown here is Pemaquid Point Lighthouse, a quintessential scene representative of the Maine coastline; a stoic lighthouse, rocky coastline and waves booming with the rise and fall of the tide.
Maine Coast Sea Vegetables, based in Franklin, Maine offers 9 certified organic North Atlantic varieties of seaweed.
OUR EDIBLE OCEAN WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS BY JENN BAKOS INFORMATION PROVIDED BY MAINE COAST SEA VEGETABLES, INC
IT may seem odd, unattractive even,
thyroid troubles, and it is an antidote
but the harvesting of sea veggies has
for radioactive poisoning. Some stud-
gone on for years and years. We have
ies even show signs that consumption
learned that Native Americans used to
may inhibit tumor formation. The
harvest these vitamin-filled greens as
benefits are outstanding, so adding
well as others from around the world.
this to your diet seems like it would
It may be something you’ve heard of
greatly improve your health, don’t you
being used in cuisines of different
think? The biggest complaint we hear
Asian cultures, but the great thing
is that the ocean taste is too overpow-
is that we can find and grow these
ering, but when cooked the right way
plants right in our own backyard.
with other ingredients, the seaweed
Well, if you’re on the ocean that is.
transforms into something delicious. There are many ways to add seaweed
The harvest begins in April and con-
into your diet and it is fairly easy to
tinues at different times until Octo-
find in stores. One of our favorites is
ber. All the plants must be tested for
Maine Coast Sea Vegetables, based
heavy metals, herbicides, pesticides,
out of Franklin, Maine. They helped
and microbiological contaminants.
us out by providing a wealth of information and some samples to try out.
These plants have more vitamins and minerals than any other class of food.
For those skeptics out there, we
They are full of vitamins A, B, C, and
encourage you to try one of the fol-
E. They also produce a large amount
lowing tasty, ocean inspired recipes.
of essential sugars, proteins, and
You will find that the health benefits
fibers. Seaweed has a high iodine content, which is great for those with
actually come second to the delicious taste. ◊◊◊
TASTING THE SEA ALARIA
One of the more attractive and tasty sea vegetables but most difficult to harvest as they like to grow in rocky peninsulas. It goes well in soups, stews, salads, and can be made into chips.
Along with Alaria, Kelp is harvested in spring but prefers to grow in the quieter waters of Frenchman Bay and other bays in Down East Maine. It is also great in soups and stews or can be eaten uncooked.
Harvested by hand and dried in the sun, this sea veggie only grows in the North Atlantic and the Pacific North West â€“ according to the Maine Coast Sea Vegetable Company; the finest quality comes from a New Brunswick Island off of the Maine Coast. Great in chowders, sandwiches, and you can even mix the flakes or granules into your smoothies!
Popular in Asian countries for many centuries, this plant grows in granite rock beds off the coast of New England. It is hand harvested and laid to dry on warmed beach stones. Maine Coast Sea Vegetable Company dry roasts these and it can be added to soups, popcorn, and salad. It has a high protein and vitamin B content.
The seaweed is harvested directly from the bed at low tide, dried at low temperatures by sun, wood or forced hot air, and then packaged.
NEW ENGLAND DULSE CHOWDER Recipe courtesy Maine Coast Sea Vegetables, Inc. www.seaveg.com
INGREDIENTS 1 cup water 1 medium onion, diced 2–3 medium potatoes, chopped 1 oz (about ½ package) dulse ½ lb fresh or frozen corn 1 quart plain soy milk (not lite) White or yellow miso Black pepper to taste ¼-½ tsp tarragon (optional)
METHOD In a medium pot, bring 1 cup water to a boil. Add diced onions, then potatoes, and cook 5 to 10 minutes. Next, add the dulse and corn, and cook for 1 minute. Add soymilk, reduce the heat to a simmer. Be sure not to boil the soymilk or it will curdle. Stir occasionally. The dulse will separate into pieces after a few minutes. Add miso, pepper (and optional tarragon) and serve! Serves 4. Enjoy!
t.e.l.l. | 93
KELP WITH RICE Recipe courtesy Maine Seaweed www.theseaweedman.com
INGREDIENTS 2 Tbsp olive oil 1 small sweet chopped onion 1 carrot, grated or chopped 3 garlic cloves, minced thyme to taste ½ cup soaked kelp, chopped 3 cups warm cooked brown rice sea salt to taste Cayenne or fresh grated ginger juice to taste 1 Tbsp roasted sesame seeds
METHOD Warm the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion, carrot, and garlic. Sprinkle with thyme, cook for 5 minutes or until softened. Stir in the kelp and cook for 2 minutes. Add the cooked rice, stir in the ginger juice or cayenne, sprinkle with salt and sesame seeds. Enjoy!
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An early morning walk in New Bedford's downtown district past some of its unique historical landmarks and along its cobblestone streets.
TRAVEL GUIDE: NEW BEDFORD STORY BY KAREN J. COVEY PHOTOGRAPHS BY ASHLEY HERRIN
IT'S early in the morning and the docks are quiet. The sun is rising over Buzzards Bay, setting the stage for another warm August day. As I walk around the docks, coffee (and camera) in hand, the shimmer on the water captivates me, much like it does most mornings since moving to the coast almost 10 years ago. While the harbor is still full of boats, many are already long out to sea in search of their daily catch. Located in southeastern Massachusetts just an hour south of Boston, New Bedford (also known as "The Whaling City"), is a bit of a hidden gem to those outside the region. During the 19th century, the New Bedford harbor was one of the most famous, and important fishing ports in the world, a fact that still holds true today. It's deep harbor allowed seagoing vessels easy access to its docks, something its then counterpart Nantucket could not, making it an ideal spot for fisherman and shipbuilders alike. During its peak, New Bedford sent out more whaling ships than all other ports combined. While it's no secret that the seafood industry plays an important role in New England's long history, this is especially true for New Bedford. The port here acts as a major seafood hub for all of New England, thanks in large part to the fact that its harbor is blessed with an abundance of fish, especially sea scallops, all of which are an easy day trip out to get. In fact, nearly 50 million pounds of sea scallops come into these docks each year, making them a much sought-after item on menus and at fish markets everywhere. While scallops (and seafood) can be found in abundance here, the region is also strongly influenced by the Portuguese immigrants who crossed the Atlantic to settle here. Local ingredients like chouriço and linguiça (Portuguese sausages) are equally as prevalent on menus, adding their own unique flavor to many New England-style dishes. »
New Bedford is nicknamed "The Whaling City." It was deemed one of the most important whaling ports in the world in the 19th century.
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New Bedford continues to be a leading fishing port despite its decline. Today, the city is ranked one of the highest-valued ports due to scalloping.
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The historic downtown district is lined with cobblestones streets, giving this city an outward charm unique to New England.
But that's not all you can find here.
waterfront is seeing vast improve-
Head up from the docks to Purchase
ments to its infrastructure and the
St. and you'll find two of my favorite
restaurants, galleries and winery are
eateries - The Pour Farm, a small brew
all worthy of a visit here. The har-
pub that serves more than 24 beers
bor also offers ferry service to both
on tap (which are constantly updated
in real time via the TapHunter app)
Island, making for an easy, no-hustle
and is home to one of the best cubano
excursion to both islands.
sandwiches outside of Miami; and No Problemo, a small Mexican eatery that
The historic downtown district lined
offers reasonably priced, authentic
with cobblestones streets, gives this
dishes from burritos to quesadillas.
city an outward charm unique to the region, while its maritime history
Down the street a bit, you'll find one of
gives it its pride. Throughout its
the best hidden gems of all - Travessia
streets, you'll find old brick buildings
Urban Winery. This small, downtown
that preserve the legacy of the historic
shop is owned by Marco Montez, who
whaling city's architecture and house
specializes in making small batch wines
their stories from a time long ago. The
with primarily Massachusetts-grown
downtown is not only beautiful, but
grapes. The winery offers daily tast-
ings, and the pinot noir rosĂŠ is sure to find an instant place in your wine
No trip to New Bedford should be
fridge, making it a must-stop when
complete without a visit to the New
visiting New Bedford. Also not to miss
Bedford Whaling Museum where vis-
is Brick Pizzeria for colossal calzones,
itors can learn more about the whal-
The Green Bean for coffee, Calico for
ing industry through its vast display of
shopping, and Be Jeweled.
artifacts and exhibits, and marvel at its impressive collection of whale bones
But this really only scratches the surface of what the city has to offer. The
hanging high from its rafters. Âť
Galleries and artists are also plentiful here, and none are as notable as local artist Arthur Moniz, whose downtown shop is housed with original works that have captured the true essence of this charming coastline for over 35 years, and is most definitely worthy of a leisurely browse. When heading out of town, visitors can get one last food fix with a stop at Sid Wainer & Son, a produce and specialty foods retailer with a small gourmet outlet that has become a mecca for food lovers of all kinds. From exotic fruits to every kind of micro greens imaginable, you're sure to discover something new and interesting here. Antique lovers fear not, New Bedford has you covered here too. Acushnet River Antiques is just the down the road from the waterfront and boasts over 18,000 square feet of hidden treasures, nautical and otherwise. While the city has endured it's fair share of economic hardships in years past, it's now enjoying a thriving resurgence, and hopes to soon become the destination it truly envisions for itself. â—Šâ—Šâ—Š
BAKED SCALLOPS WITH TOASTED BREADCRUMBS RECIPE BY KAREN J. COVEY REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM 'THE COASTAL TABLE' PHOTOGRAPHS BY ASHLEY HERRIN
NEW Bedford is the highest-valued port in the nation, due largely to its scallop fishery. Despite the historical decline in the whaling industry in New Bedford, the over-abundance of scallops has given this city new life. Karen J. Covey, author of The Coastal Table, shared with us this delicious recipe that is rich in flavor and fresh from New England's coast. Karen notes; "when entertaining, I love to bake this dish in individual gratin dishes. A simple breadcrumb mixture on top gives it great flavor and contrasts nicely with the scallops’ smooth texture." 'The Coastal Table' is a regional cookbook filled with recipes inspired by the freshest ingredients from New England's farmlands and the Southern New England coast. Enjoy the fresh produce of New Bedford with this coastal-inspired dish! »
BAKED SCALLOPS WITH TOASTED BREADCRUMBS INGREDIENTS 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling 2 small cloves garlic, finely minced 1 small shallot, finely minced 2 tablespoons finely minced fresh flat-leaf Italian parsley, plus extra for garnish Zest from ½ lemon Kosher salt, to taste Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
¼ cup white wine 20 sea scallops 2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
¼ cup plain breadcrumbs Juice from ½-1 lemon
METHOD Preheat oven to 425°F. Place 4 individual 6-inch round gratin dishes on a baking sheet and set aside. In a medium bowl, add butter, olive oil, garlic, shallot, parsley, and lemon zest, mix until combined, and season with salt and pepper. Place 1 tablespoon wine in bottom of each gratin dish. Remove any tough, crescent-shaped muscle fromoutside of scallops and discard. Pat scallops dry and place 5 scallops in each dish, grouping them together. Place a dollop of butter mixture on scallops. Scatter equal amounts of Parmigiano-Reggiano over each, followed by breadcrumbs. Drizzle additional oil over top of each dish and season with salt and pepper. Bake until breadcrumbs are lightly toasted, about 10 minutes. Finish under broiler for 1-2 minutes. Drizzle each gratin dish with lemon juice and a bit more parsley and serve warm. Serves 4.
t.e.l.l. NEW ENGL AND
A PORT CITY RESTAURANT WITH MOXY STORY & PHOTOGRAPHS BY JUDD DUCLOS
THE New Hampshire seacoast is abundant with dining options but there’s nothing quite like a dining experience at Moxy in Portsmouth, New Hampshire. The concept is “modern American tapas” — New England inspired food adapted into smaller plates and individual bites meant to be shared (or not!). You’ll find regional takes on traditional tapas dishes that exemplify the history and culture of New England. The ingredients are sourced locally with food suppliers proudly listed on wooden placards near the bar. Chef/owner Matt Louis has deep local roots. Born and raised in southern New Hampshire, his love for cooking started at a young age. It was in the kitchen of the hotel that his father managed at Hampton Beach, NH where Chef Louis realized his passion for food. After receiving his degree from the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) in New York, Chef Louis worked under famed chef Thomas Keller. He refined his skills at Keller's critically acclaimed restaurants Bouchon, The French Laundry, and Per Se. The love for his home would eventually bring Chef Louis back to New England. Upon returning to New Hampshire, he worked as an instructor in the culinary program at Southern New Hampshire University and was the Executive Chef at the iconic Wentworth By the Sea in New Castle, New Hampshire. In 2012 he partnered with successful restaurateur Jay McSharry and opened Moxy on a quiet side street in historic downtown Portsmouth. »
MOXY 106 PENHALLOW STREET PORTSMOUTH, NEW HAMPSHIRE
Moxy boasts “modern American tapas” and New England inspired food adapted into smaller plates and individual bites meant to be shared. You’ll find regional takes on traditional tapas dishes that exemplify the history and culture of New England.
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To get a sense of Moxy’s true identity, you really have to look at the menu. It doesn’t get any more New England than Moxy-made mini red hot dogs on a When Pigs Fly grilled bun, topped with NH bacon-fresno chili marmalade, Boggy Meadow's swiss, and Raye's mustard. How about Wiley Point oysters with lilac mignonette and shaved fennel-milkweed blossom? Or maybe some classic crispy Rhode Island calamari, celtuce, scallion and spicy pepper relish? Options are plentiful for the non-meat eaters too. Chef Louis excels in preparing locally grown and foraged vegetables and mushrooms. He clearly wants the local flavor to shine in every bite. “It's incredible and inspiring sourcing food and building a menu like this. We print our menus in house everyday, so if something isn't available, we just change the menu. Anyone can order from a big truck and a broadliner, but what's the fun? And what are you doing to help the economic circle of your local community? By talking with, interacting with, building relationships with the ones growing and caring for the product...that is purpose, that is depth. Does it take a little more work? Maybe...but doesn't everything worth doing?” said Louis. Portsmouth is that kind of place that you fall in love with quickly. Whether you walk through the popular downtown area or the quiet neighborhoods, around every corner there’s a reminder of its long colonial and maritime history. The Portsmouth Naval Shipyard and the newly constructed Memorial Bridge are Portsmouth Harbor landmarks that serve as a gateway to the Atlantic. Portsmouth is also the launching point for a day trip to the historic Isle of Shoals. In addition to Moxy and a thriving food scene, there is plenty of shopping, museums and live music to choose from. »
“Portsmouth was the only choice for me...an absolutely incredible and dynamic town, a great vibe and scene, and lots of people from many diferent professions that are dedicated to their passion...the energy of Portsmouth is what I love, the community of it, the history and modern aspects all cohesively coexisting in a unique culture that just feels good.”
"ANYONE CAN ORDER FROM A BIG TRUCK AND A BROADLINER, BUT WHAT'S THE FUN? AND WHAT ARE YOU DOING TO HELP THE ECONOMIC CIRCLE OF YOUR LOCAL COMMUNITY? BY TALKING WITH, INTERACTING WITH, BUILDING RELATIONSHIPS WITH THE ONES GROWING AND CARING FOR THE PRODUCT... THAT IS PURPOSE, THAT IS DEPTH." When you're handed a menu, you often just see it for what it is, a list of food and drinks to choose from, but there's a deeper meaning embedded in the menu at Moxy. It’s a creative expression of culinary history and local culture. The food is thoughtfully prepared by a skilled team who understand the food and its origins. You can find Moxy on 106 Penhallow St. Metered parking is available on Penhallow and surrounding streets (free after 7pm), and at the Portmouth Parking Garage on 34 Hanover Street. Reservations are recommended. ◊◊◊
TRAVEL GUIDE: MARTHA'S VINEYARD
STORY BY DESIREE SPINNER PHOTOGRAPHS BY GREER RIVERA
The view from Gay Head Lighthouse in Aquinnah, Marthaâ€™s Vineyard.
THIRTY-FIVE minutes off the coast of Cape Cod, by ferry, you will land on the Island of Martha’s Vineyard. You might think though, you have transported to Ireland or even England, when you get there. Rolling hills, wild horses, cattle, and stonewalls for miles, run right through the middle of this beautiful place that makes you forget for a second, that you are in New England. I am filled with nostalgia as I arrive for the week with my husband and kids in tow. I take the same ferry as I did when I was my son’s age, and we arrive in Vineyard Haven as I did many times with my parents. I have been coming here for over 15 years. Vineyard Haven is a creative, and old-school type of town with some of my favorite shops on Island. Although the shops have come and gone, some remain, some have moved further down Main Street, and some have moved towns completely. I can always count on a fun shopping day in town. The air is salty here, and there is always a gentle crisp New England breeze. Although the three major towns, Vineyard Haven, Edgartown and Oak Bluffs are always fun to spend a day shopping, I prefer to stay up-island where things are a little slower, and quieter. One of my favorite places to stay is the Beach Plum Inn, in Chilmark. It may have a little to do with the free Lucy Vincent Beach pass you get upon arrival, but it has everything to do with the close proximity to all my favorite places on Island. »
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Cobblestone walls keep cows from meandering away from home, the sprawling pastures of Chilmark, Marthaâ€™s Vineyard.
Menemsha, home to a serene harbor and scenic beach with some of the best sunsets on Island.
Traveling here with my family is a lot different than it was back in the 90’s when I was sitting in the back seat of my parent’s car. However, this part of the island hasn’t changed a bit. I can always count on the fried seafood at the Bite, and that Menemsha beach will have a crowd at 7pm to watch the sunset (and that everyone will cheer when the tip of the sun finally hits the horizon). As we take a long drive up to the cliffs in Aquinnah, my family laughs when I tell them about how my dad was always driving out to Oak Bluffs, last minute, to get wine before dinner at the Chilmark Tavern. Most of the towns on Island are dry so come prepared (or be prepared to venture out) with your favorite bottle — you’ve been fair warned! My son asks a million questions, laughing, when I tell him his Aunt and Uncle got the same "melty" soft serve that we wait in line for at the Menemsha docks. I smile when I think what he will tell his children about our family memories. When my little girl curls her toes in the sand at Lucy Vincent Beach, I am reminded of my past; my soul is complete here. I will always wander, and daydream about what their adventures will be like on this wondrous, and magical Island. »
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MY PERFECT MARTHA'S VINEYARD DAY
Wake up at the Beach Plum Inn, Menemsha, & grab a quick
coffee in the lobby to go!
Head back up island (stop at Fiddlehead Farm and grab some fresh veggies and local sodas) to Chilmark (this time take State Road) and head to
Watch the sun come up in
the Chilmark General store
Aquinnah over the cliffs.
for lunch and some amazing people watching. You sim-
ply have to get the hummus
Head down Middle Road to-
there.... it’s homemade and
ward Tisbury for the most
gorgeous sites on the island. Rolling hills, stonewalls, and herds of cows.
If you are staying in Chilmark or at the Beach Plum Inn, make sure you get a
beach pass for Lucy Vincent
and head to the Scottish
Beach. It is one of my favor-
Bake House in Tisbury. Or-
ites on Island.
der the egg sandwich on their homemade spinach/ garlic/parmesan
Make sure to make reservations at the Homeport in Menemsha for amazing
Drive to Vineyard Haven for
seafood right off the boat.
some amazing shopping. You
For the less adventuresome
have to check out Citrine,
(with kids in tow) check out
which has an amazing selec-
The Bite. It’s a little seafood
tion of local artisans, cloth-
shack where you can grab
ing and more! Don’t leave
some food to go and head
without stopping into Carly
to Menemsha beach for a
Simon’s shop Midnight Farm
perfect sunset (keep a look
for chic, and vintage home
out for the harpooner). Must
décor. Don’t forget to pick
have: the fried zucchini!
up her children’s book by the same name!
Located on State Road in West Tisbury, Fiddlehead Farm is the perfect place to pick up tonightâ€™s fresh salad ingredients and a little something for dessert. Their assortment of fresh baked pies should not be missed.
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Chilmark General Store serves up traditional deli fare and pizzas, along with a mix of gourmet provisions and typical grocery items. Not hungry? Snag a rocker on the porch and settle in for some people watching.
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MEET THE MAKER: WELLFLEET SEA SALT AN INTERVIEW WITH HOPE & ZAK OF WELLFLEET SEA SALT PHOTOGRAPHS BY JENN BAKOS
Many things draw us to the folks we interview and photograph. We have met countless makers and craftspeople, as well as farmers and chefs. Sea salt seems to be up and coming as far as local produce and farming go, and we were excited to learn about the process of this important mineral. Hope Schwartz-Leeper and Zach Fagiano were kind enough to take some time out of their busy schedules to show us their little (soon to be bigger!) salt farm station. They started their company while in their junior year of college. Now they run the company and live on Cape Cod and are dedicated to keeping things natural and local. We felt as though they were the perfect fit for the pages of Issue 06 - harvesting their product from the chilled depths of the Atlantic Ocean, the inspiration behind our latest volume. Âť
Zak and Hope in front of the evaporators in Wellfleet, Massachusetts.
The team uses an electric bilge pump wired to a car battery to pump the water into giant tanks in the back of their pick up truck. They then drive to the evaporators where they pump all the water out.
TELL US A LITTLE BIT ABOUT HOW WELLFLEET SEA SALT STARTED. WHY SALT ? When we were juniors at Skidmore College, we entered a business plan competition at school. My dad kept suggesting the idea of sea salt, which was just beginning to gain popularity in the food world. Zak's parents are food professionals and encouraged us to give it a try. We ended up winning a grant and have been doing it ever since! WHAT LED YOU AND ZAK TO SEA SALT AND THIS ENDEAVOR ? Growing up, I went to Wellfleet nearly every summer, so the ocean has always been a big part of my life. Zak had never been. Both of our parents had a lot to do with it, and it gives us a great excuse to live on Cape Cod where most people only get to come for vacation. WHAT IS A TYPICAL DAY LIKE FOR WELLFLEET SEA SALT ? Our days will vary greatly because our business is so weather reliant, which makes everyday something new. Usually it will start with Zak and I going to our evaporators before they get too hot; the lower the sun the less humid and hot they will be. We will harvest salt or fill the greenhouses with water and then return home where we will package salt into jars, smoke salt, or mix the ingredients for our citrus salt for most of the day. During the summer I go to a farmers' market four days of the week, which is a great way for me to speak with customers face-to-face. Zak will also go out and do deliveries all around the Cape. HOW IS SALT HARVESTED AND MADE ? The harvesting process for salt starts with catching the ocean at just the right point before high tide. If the tide is too high, we won't have access with our truck to go get the sea water because the area will flood. If the tide is too low, we will have to wait for a long time until it's high and fresh enough. We use an electric bilge pump wired to our car battery to pump the water into giant tanks in the back of our pick up truck. Then we drive about two and a half miles to our evaporators, where we pump the water out and let it start evaporating. Eventually the water is gone and leaves us with salt crystals, which we put in piles to let the moisture drain out. We collect the salt and bring it home where we jar it. Âť
HOW AND WHY DID YOU CHOOSE THE CAPE COD COAST TO HARVEST YOUR SALT ? Cape Cod actually has a rich history of making sea salt. During the Revolutionary War, the British put an embargo on salt to the United States. Salt was essential for food preservation at the time so the colonies had to figure out how to make their own salt. A man named John Sears started the first salt works on Cape Cod and it took off. At its height there were hundreds of salt works all over the Cape and we are bringing back that tradition! We love the Cape and everything about it â€” from the beaches to the restaurants and everything in between, it's just the perfect place for us. Making salt here just makes sense. WHAT INSPIRES YOU ABOUT THE NEW ENGLAND COAST ? New England is a wonderful place and it's perfect for harvesting salt. The
coast is beautiful and full of minerals which gives the salt a distinctive taste and color and is perfect for making a unique American salt. There's a reason why so many writers and other artists flock to the Cape; there is something indescribable about looking across the Atlantic Ocean from the top of a sand dune. I think part of the charm of Cape Cod and New England in general is that you can almost feel the history. It is the first place that people settled from Europe, and the Native American history is incredibly rich as well. YOU MENTIONED THAT YOU DO A FEW FARMER'S MARKETS. WHAT FARM MARKETS DO YOU SELL YOUR PRODUCTS AT ?
We sell our products at the Wellfleet, Harwich, Chatham, and Osterville farmers markets. Next year we hope to add Truro and Orleans to our schedule. Âť
WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE WAY TO USE YOUR SALTS ? Zak: My favorite way to use the salt is rubbing our smoked salt into a steak, burger, or chicken breast and slapping it on the grill. For me one of the best parts about sea salt is the texture — the added crunch that gives you the sense that your really digging into something special. I like to put the smoked salt on my steak not only for that smokey taste but also for the added crunch. Hope: I like to use our salt to make something really simple and fresh. Even just stirfried farmers' market veggies, or local summer corn with a little butter and salt is a great way to enjoy it. You get the pure briny flavor of the salt, which in turn helps to enhance to flavor of the produce in a really nice way. It's easy but delicious! WHERE DO YOU SEE YOUR COMPANY IN 5 YEARS FROM NOW ? In 5 years from now we hope to have a full range of flavored salts as well as some food products that use salt, but aren't primarily salt focused, such as rubs and blends using other herbs. We see the company expanding into a multi-food business that can use local ingredients from all over the Cape and New England to deliver a full line of unique great foods made from local farmers. WHAT'S THE BEST THING ABOUT YOUR JOB ? Zak: The best part of the job for me is being outside on the beaches and enjoying the nature and beauty of Cape Cod. I love to surf and this is the best way to mix work and play for me. Even when we are slammed and can barely keep up with all the work, being outside or focusing on something I love to do makes it completely worth it. Plus working with Hope each day is great because we work so well together. We have very different ways of thinking and it makes for the perfect business partnership. Hope: I also love to be outside, especially in one of my favorite places in the world. One of the biggest perks is getting to go to farmers' markets because it never feels like work for me. I get to talk to the local farmers and producers, who are always the most friendly and interesting people. Some have grown up farming, while others got involved with it later in life. Other people have started really fascinating businesses and it's always fun to compare what we do and how we operate as small companies. The customers are always interested in learning about what all of us do and it's fun to chat with all of them. ◊◊◊
BLUEBERRY SEA SALT CORDIAL A
blueberry stand on the side of Route 1 in Wiscasset inspired this
fresh, summer cocktail – one part just-off-the-bush blueberry taste, one part backwoods flavor. But we promise you won’t have to worry about oncoming traffic or easily excited tourists. For this coastal inspired cocktail we headed past the blueberry stand to where the blueberry bush meets the sea, a place where blueberries, rocks, and salt live in harmony. And for the kick in this cocktail we looked to Maine Craft Distillery, who have crafted a uniquely northern spin on moonshine, Blueshine® blueberry moonshine. We suggest enjoying this cocktail in a Maine Sea Salt rimmed rocks glass. But if you’d rather take it to go, shake it up in a mason jar, stash it in your beach tote, and savor this boozy treat down on the beach at sunset. Now excuse us while we head to the beach... »
BLUEBERRY SEA SALT CORDIAL INGREDIENTS 1 cup fresh blueberries 4 sprigs fresh basil 2 cups ginger ale 2 ounces Maine Craft Distillery Blueshine Wellfleet Sea Salt, or other local sea salt, for the rim Cubed ice
FOR THE COCKTAIL Muddle blueberries and basil in a shaker. Add several ice cubes and 2 ounces of Blueshine. Shake vigorously. Pour contents into a sea salt-rimmed glass of your choice. Top with ginger ale and as many more blueberries as you like. Enjoy!
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"Because there's nothing more beautiful than the way the ocean refuses to stop kissing the shoreline, no matter how many times it's sent away."
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Issue 06 | Summer 2014