Footwear Plus Magazine | December 2017

S T Y L E H A L L O F FA M E : B I R K E N S T O C K B O S T O N & N E W B A L A N C E 9 9 8

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WORK BOOTS

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c Rihanna x Fenty Puma

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D E C E M B E R 2 0 17 FEATU R ES 12 Earth Mover On the heels of 40 percent gains this year, Philippe Meynard, CEO of Earth, says the company is at a tipping point for accelerated growth depite strong industry headwinds.

By Greg Dutter 18 Ethiopian Express The East Africa nation is ramping up sourcing capabilities, positioning the region as an up-and-coming hub of footwear manufacturing.

By Greg Dutter 20 King Clog The Birkenstock Boston clog, introduced in 1979, has clicked with a wide range of consumers hooked on its comfort attributes and classic styling, making it Footwear Plus Style Hall of Fame worthy.

By Cat Perry 22 Cool Runnings From cult running shoe to lifestyle status sneaker, the New Balance 998 has withstood the test of time—and “dad shoe” infamy—thus belongs in the Footwear Plus Style Hall of Fame.

By Kirstin Koba 26 Kitschy Keen Over-the-top embellishments turn ordinary silhouettes into extraordinary statements for spring.

By Dani Morales PA G E

26

This page: Alice + Olivia by Stacy Bendet slip-ons, top by Creatures of the Wind, COS skirt, vintage socks, glasses by The Shiny Squirrel, Vita Fede earrings and bracelet, rings by The Shiny Squirrell, Little Rooms and Aoko Su.

On the cover: Furla sneakers with oversized silk laces, Pinko blazer, top by Cynthia Rowley, Nicholas K pants, Falke socks, earrings by Lou Grey, Little Room and Aoko Su rings .

Photography by Trevett McCandliss; stylist: Dani Morales; hair and makeup: Nevio Ragazzini/Next Artists; model: Olantha/Fenton Model Mgmt.

DEPA RTM ENTS 6 Editor’s Note 8 This Just In 10 Scene & Heard 24 Note To My Younger Self 25 Trend Spotting 36 Shoe Salon 38 Comfort 39 What’s Selling

Caroline Diaco Publisher Greg Dutter Editorial Director Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Aleda Johnson Assistant Editor Emily Beckman Assistant Editor Kathy Passero Editor at Large Melodie Jeng Mary Kang Contributing Photographers ADVERTISING/ PRODUCTION Jennifer Craig Associate Publisher Laurie Guptil Production Manager Bruce Sprague Circulation Director Mike Hoff Digital Director Ana Novikova Office Administration OFFICES Advertising/Editorial 135 W. 20th St., Suite 402 New York, NY 10011 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 editorialrequests@ 9Threads.com Circulation 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 circulation@9Threads.com Corporate 9Threads 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 Xen Zapis Chairman Lee Zapis President Rich Bongorno Chief Financial Officer Debbie Grim Controller

40 Last Word

FOOTWEAR PLUS ™ (ISSN#1054-898X) The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 36 Cooper Square, 4th fl., New York, NY, 10003-7118. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48.00 in the U.S. Rates oustide the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10.00. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FOOTWEAR PLUS, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher not responsible for unsolicited articles or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. ©2008 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Printed in the United States.

4 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2017

EDITOR’S NOT E

Monsters Ink

Stranger Things WHEN LAST YEAR came to an end, I (wrongly) believed 2016 was like no other year in retail, not to mention politics. Boy, what a difference a year can make!

Memorable buzzwords of 2016 were “disruptive” and “deplorable.” Sentiment from many industry insiders was the year would go down as one of the most difficult and depressing in recent memory.

Turns out, however, The Great Retail Shakeout was only the tipping point in The Retail Apocalypse of 2017. Thousands of store closings and downsizings later, it’s safe to say the house of cards that began to teeter last year all but collapsed for many this year. (They say Rome wasn’t built in a day, but the fall was probably a lot faster.)

Perhaps the ultimate slap in the face signifying how far the once high and mighty have fallen was the recent announcement that Lord & Taylor’s flagship on New York’s 5th Avenue—a cathedral of retail—was sold to WeWork, an office space sharing company, for $850 million. It seems only fitting that a sharing economy company will move into the once proud headquarters of an old economy retailer—a 10-floor mecca of shopping where many leading retail executives made their bones. Plans are for Lord & Taylor to scale back to less than a quarter of its current space in the building—downsized and just another temp tenant, like all the other WeWork clients that will soon fill the space. On the flip side, the 100-year-old grand edifice will be chock-full of Millennials (beginning after the 2018 holiday shopping season) who just might decide to shop during their breaks, when not busy at the foosball and ping pong tables, of course.

It’s as though retail has entered the Upside Down, the alternate dimension depicted in the hit Netflix sci-fi series Stranger Things. In this world, set during Reagan’s America, a nuclear winter backdrop serves as a lifeless setting where a supernatural predator, the Shadow Monster, lurks to spread evil into our world. A gate to the Upside Down has opened in a small Indiana town. Might a similar gate have been opened more recently in Seattle, perhaps? It’s not hard to draw parallels to Amazon as a supernatural predator able to erode brand margins at will and destroy its competitors one by one. The online behemoth’s latest salvo to be the

ultimate bargain beast by cutting prices on its third-party Marketplace— and paying the difference to those sellers—is yet more proof that the old rules no longer apply. What retailer pays its competitors so it can sell goods at a lower price? And who has the financial might to cover it? What does it say about map pricing policies? (To hell with them, for starters.) It’s the new retail math of the Upside Down World. It’s enough to give you chronic nosebleeds trying to make sense of it all.

Of course, one could make the case that the Shadow Monster is, in fact, the consumer. Amazon, Walmart and just about every retailer— not to mention a rapidly rising number of wholesalers ramping up direct-to-consumer platforms—are feeding the consumer’s ravenous appetite for lower prices. The Internet has only strengthened this beast’s ability to scan the world instantly for the lowest price, all from the comfort of its lair.

Whoever the beast is, can it be slayed? Or, at the very least, kept at bay? It requires teamwork, for starters. Similar to Stranger Things’ ragtag group of teens fighting the Shadow Monster, retailers and wholesalers must work together to stand a chance. Philippe Meynard, CEO of Earth and the subject of this month’s Q&A (p. 12), warns that we must take action or watch our industry consolidate to the point where a handful of super predators dominate the landscape. Meynard believes brands need to merchandise tiers more exclusively to ward off such an industry dystopia. How else can a brand’s image and value survive the immediacy of comparing prices online? How else to draw the line on the consumer’s ability to pit retailers against one other? Exclusivity coupled with experiential retail, he says, is the most effective way to turn the consumer from foe to friend.

As a kid of the ’80s weaned on films like ET, Goonies, Stand by Me, Lost Boys, etc. (all heavily referenced in Stranger Things), I take solace in the moral that friendship and teamwork can slay monsters. Such victories often involve people with a range of talents and unique perspectives putting aside their differences to fight for a greater good. These storylines generally buck the status quo as well, proving that carving out a fresh path leads to a better world. As strange as it might sound, this has the makings of a perfect script—one in which our industry lives to fight another day.

Greg Dutter

Editorial Director

6 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2017

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8 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2017

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SCENE & HEARD

Plus Award Nominees Announced THE NOMINEES FOR the 19th annual Plus Awards, in recognition of design and retail excellence for 2017, have been announced by Footwear Plus.

This year’s ballot (p. 2) features 19 categories spanning the breadth of the market, including athletic, comfort, dress, collaborations, outdoor, children’s and work boots, as well as the online, comfort specialty, sneaker boutiques and national chain categories.

“This year’s Plus Award nominees delivered on innovation, style, comfort, performance, service, experience and excitement,” says Caroline Diaco, publisher of Footwear Plus. “Congratulations to all nominees for putting your best foot forward.”

The coveted Brand of the Year honor will be decided between Adidas (2016 winner), Birkenstock, Vans and Puma. The two collaborations categories feature a Who’s Who of fashion heavyweights, such as Karl Lagerfeld x Vans, Colette x Birkenstock, Rihanna x Fenty Puma and Adidas x Pharrell Williams. On the retail side, those vying for awards include DSW, Nordstrom, Journeys and Foot Locker; Comfort Specialty players J. Stephens, Littles, Footwear Etc. and Dardano’s; and the Sneaker Boutiques trendsetters Concepts, Extra Butter, Likelihood and Stadium Goods.

Online voting (at www.

FootwearPlusMagazine.com) is open through the month of December. Winners will be announced in early February.

The Plus Awards, co-sponsored

by FFANY and Jones & Vining, are the industry’s only accolades determined by the votes of industry members.

10 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2017

Oliver Sweeney Meets James Bond OLIVER SWEENEY HAS teamed with VeryFirstTo.com to launch the “Secret Shoe,” a daring Derby that spies, aspiring moles and gadget gurus will crave thanks to the many secrets it can hold in its soles. Wannabe James Bonds can choose from up to three practical gadgets: phone, camera, compass, USB stick, mini Swiss Army knife, tracking device, aftershave atomiser with Oliver Sweeney fragrance, flashlight, spare key, choice of currency capsule and the world’s most advanced payment ring that pays for everything anywhere that accepts Mastercard contact-less payments.

“Any man who has lost his jacket or wallet on a night out would benefit from the spare phone, cash or payment ring,” says Amar Thapen, editor in chief of VeryFirstTo.com. Marcel Knobil, the site’s founder, adds, “The laces are made of Kevlar that can act as a friction saw cutting through wood or plastic, so should you ever find yourself ziptied, you have a fighting chance!”

Perhaps the Long-CZ phone—the size of a thumb and weighs less than 20 grams—is the most notable gadget. It includes a radio, voice changer and text voicemail—all using a micro sim card. Or it’s

Spread it on Thick

the Enklov spy camera, which comes complete with night vision, motion detection and the ability to take HD videos and photos.

The Secret Shoe gadgets fit seamlessly and the shoes are “comfortable, unassuming and classic,” says Tim Cooper, cobbler in chief for Oliver Sweeney.

“We went to extraordinary lengths to source the best materials from across the globe, sourcing the finest leathers from Scottish estates to working closely with our family-run factory in Italy’s Marche region.” The industry veteran adds that the difference compared to the weight of a traditional Derby is negligible, and for those who want to personalize their shoes—in keeping with Oliver Sweeney’s penchant for tattoo details—personal information can be inscribed on the soles, be it a name, blood type, GPS coordinates, etc.

Just what will the Secret Shoe set you back?

Up to $2,715. Knobil believes it’s worth it as the high-tech gadgets could save your life. It’s also why he believes the Secret Shoe is a fit for more than spies. “Any man could wear this shoe— stylish, professional and across the generation gap who like a classic look but also embrace their inner spy,” he says.

CAT FOOTWEAR AND New York sneaker boutique Extra Butter have teamed for a crème de la crème collab this fall: the “Urban Delta” boot, a spin on its classic Colorado style. The dualbranded boot ($160 retail) boasts 3D embroidered “Extra” and “Butter” across the right and left collar strap, respectively.

Bernie Gross, creative director of Extra Butter, notes it’s the store’s “first true boot” collaboration. “We wanted to reintroduce the work horse boot to our elevated customer with a design that fits their fashion lifestyle sensibilities—shattering all prior perceptions of a work boot,” he says. “Urban meets tactical, but still for the hardest of mentalities.”

“Being bold is a state of mind, and it’s also contagious,” says Dani Zizak, chief marketing officer for Cat Footwear. “When like-minded brands who share the same fiery attitude and willpower lock arms, the sum is greater than their parts and sparks happen.”

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EARTH MOVER O n t h e h e e l s o f 4 0 p e r c e n t g a i n s t h i s y e a r, P h i l i p p e Me y n a r d , CEO of Earth, says the company is at a tipping point for accelerated growth despite strong industry headwinds.

T

HERE ARE GOOD tipping points and bad ones. The good kinds often act like snowballs, rolling downhill and putting a company on a path to greater annual growth through sheer size and momentum. Philippe Meynard, CEO of Earth, believes that’s the kind of tipping point his company is enjoying now. Sales are up 35 percent this year for the company (including its first-cost division) and 40 percent for Earth’s branded business. “This year will be the highest number this company has done in its 40 years of existence,” Meynard says.

Not bad at a time when flat has become the new up in retail, and down has become the new black. Even more noteworthy, Meynard says a large portion of Earth’s growth has come from the independent retail channel. You know, those dinosaur-like, brick-and-mortar businesses supposedly made extinct by online dealers. “Our sales in that tier have skyrocketed,” he says. “We’ve jumped from the number 10 or 15 brand to number two or three in a lot of those stores. Also, our Nordstrom and QVC businesses are up significantly—in our key accounts, business is up overall.”

Meynard says Earth’s across-the-board success has led the company to its current tipping point. He bases his assessment on statistical comparisons to other footwear companies that hit a similar volume, then saw sales take off. When asked where he envisions Earth in five years, he says the industry is in for a surprise. “I don’t believe people realize how fast we’ve grown and how big a company we are transforming into,” he says. “I believe in five years, we’ll be three times bigger than we are today.”

Leading the charge on Earth’s sales growth, not surprisingly, is the product. Meynard praises the company’s design team, led by industry veteran Angelo Romero and its China-based factory, as second to none. Looks are only part of the equation, however. Meynard cites Earth’s consistent fit across the line season after season as the differ-

12 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2017

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O&A ence maker. It translates to unbelievable comfort, even though he admits that’s an overused description. “Everybody says their shoes are comfortable,” Meynard says. “Comfort should be a given, and I think we’re doing well because we’re providing a consistent fit in very fashionable shoes. There’s a lot of cool-looking footwear out there, but women can’t wear it all day.

Ours, they can wear all day.”

Another key ingredient to Earth’s recent success has been its sales team, which includes Steve Mahoney as vice president and Jenny Whitney in charge of key accounts. They joined this year from Clarks and Easy Spirit, respectively. “We’re looking more dynamic today than we’ve ever been,” Meynard says, adding, “We have the best sales team this company has ever had.”

What are you reading? Dream In order to drive greater growth Big. It’s about how the Brazilian in the seasons ahead, Meynard says investment group 3G Capital Earth is reimagining its merchandisacquired Anheuser-Busch, ing and marketing strategies. Both Burger King and Heinz. It’s good. are major works in progress, being reinvented to meet a rapidly changWhat was the last movie you ing retail landscape and consumer saw? Blade Runner 2049. demographic. On the merchandising front, it’s about exclusivity by What was your first-ever tier. “We’re not going to be selling paying job? Picking string the same shoes to Amazon, on our bean bushels on a farm during DTC site, and to our independents the summer in Concord, MA. and specialty accounts. We have I was 11. We moved to Brazil to diversify,” he says. “The entire after that. industry has to.”

Other wise, Meynard warns, If you could hire anyone who sameness will perpetuate a race to would it be? Oh, I can’t tell you the bottom on price, eroding brand that. (laughs) images along the way. It’s become an industry-wide epidemic. One that What is the best business deciNike, for example, is tackling head sion you’ve ever made? Coming on with its recent announcement of back to run Earth. I took a break a trial partnership with Amazon (at from the branded piece of the the expense of other dealers selling company for about eight years the brand on the online giant’s third(2007–2015) when I was runparty Marketplace) and plans for ning PlanetShoes.com.

Draconian distribution cuts overall.

Meynard believes diversifying goods by tier is the only sustainable way forward in the online shopping age, whether you’re Nike or a start-up. “If all the merchandise eventually winds up on Amazon and Walmart, why does anybody need to go anywhere else?” he says. He fears that if the issue is not addressed it may make selling shoes akin to toilet paper. “If you ask me today, I think we’re closer to selling toilet paper,” he says. “But if you ask me in a couple of years, hopefully that’ll have changed.”

Such a revolutionary merchandising strategy has not been easy to implement, Meynard admits. For starters, old habits die hard. In addition, the possibility that one channel wants what the other has presents a challenge.

Meynard believes the company will just have to hold its ground—for the good of Earth and retailers overall. “We’re going to have to draw the line,” he says, noting that goal is to implement the new strategy in 2018.

Also being unveiled next year will be Earth’s new marketing strategy, which takes insights from the recent run of vertical brand startups that

have reinvented the rulebook on how to break into the market—in record time, no less. “They are coming out of the woodwork,” Meynard says. “We’re taking cues on how they’ve been able to get into the marketplace so rapidly through social media and however else they’re doing it. We have to reinvent ourselves as a mature brand with a startup hybrid philosophy.”

Meynard cites the launch of Allbirds as a prime example. He’s been impressed by how the brand has become a name out of nowhere—something he witnessed firsthand after sporting a pair at a recent Lady Gaga concert and having a stranger give him props for his fashion choice. To Meynard, it was a wakeup call: “How are these guys marketing their brand? What’s their strategy compared to a more mature brand? How do we bring What talent would you most that type of marketing approach to like to have? To be a better Earth?” Meynard believes it’s about communicator. making a brand special—something he says can’t be achieved solely on What are three things you can’t Amazon or in a Walmart, where price live without? My family, German is the overriding factor. Exclusivity cars and technology. and experience matter, he says, citing the new Adidas x Concepts What is your motto? Right brand experience store in Boston as now, it’s to grow the company another example Earth is studying honorably. for its new marketing approach.

“The store’s a must-see,” he says, What is your favorite hometown crediting his friend and Concepts memory? That’s a difficult quesfounder Tarek Hassan for making it tion because I bounced around a reality. “There’s a lot of innovation, so much as a child. I was born it’s exclusive product, it’s a unique in France, moved when I was a experience…it’s a genius concept baby to Massachusetts, then to that breaks new ground, and there Brazil when I was 12 and then needs to be more of that type of back to France. It’s hard for me retailing,” he adds. to determine where my roots are.

Along those lines, Meynard is also taking a page out of his late father’s Is there one place you have parplaybook. Michel Meynard, the founder ticularly fond memories of ? I of the company, was widely regarded have cool memories of riding my as an industry pioneer, innovator mini dirt bike around Concord. and risk-taker. The elder Meynard I started riding when I was 9. viewed the status quo with skepticism, preferring to carve out fresh ways to increase potential. Likewise, Meynard says, “We want people to look to Earth as a leader, and to do so means we have to add more risk in the way we approach product, merchandising and marketing. We can’t all be doing stuff the same way and expect to be successful.”

OFF THE CUFF

14 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2017

New products, new sales team, new merchandising and marketing strategies…Lots of new stuff at Earth.

Yes. The remarketing and rebranding began a few months ago and should make their debuts next year. I’m just very pumped by the way we’re going to bring back this brand. It’s going to be a whole different level, and I think once we make the change all eyes are going to be on us.

Will the new marketing strategy target a different customer?

We are going after more of the older Millennials. They are hitting 35, so they are not that young anymore. Part of that effort involves reintroducing

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O&A Kalso by Earth for Fall ’18, which will be positioned as originals that were first introduced in the ’70s with, of course, updated comfort features. For example, we are bringing back the original Powerpack insole, which has been updated with the latest technologies. In fact, the insole will find its way into every shoe that we make eventually.

Where will Kalso by Earth be sold?

It will be distributed in select specialty stores and DTC. It will not be available on any online marketplaces. It’s not about the volume as it’s intended to bring back the DNA of the brand so people know who we are and what we’re about. It’s more of a fashion statement. We are using Kalso to come back to our roots the same way Converse, Nike and other brands that have reintroduced their iconic shoes from when they first started and then took off as brands. It’s important that we don’t lose that piece of the brand.

Is it fair to say Earth is defying current industry sentiment that meaningful growth is not possible in the independent tier?

We’re proof that you can—if you have the right products, sales team and relationships. I also believe there just has to be a revival of that tier. What’s going to happen, otherwise? Everyone is going to buy their shoes at either Amazon or Walmart? I just don’t believe it. More than 80 percent of all shoes are still sold in brick-and-mortar locations. What’s more, people are going to need to get outside. Technology is great but it’s also a distraction and can monopolize your life. There has to be a change that comes about.

Japan, for example, estimates that one percent of its younger population literally doesn’t go out of their homes. Their job is online, they get their food delivered, they shop online, etc. The government is very concerned. It’s not healthy physically, mentally or socially. There has to be a change, right?

We can’t all come down to living like that. I mean, it’s getting out of hand.

Well, when shopping became all about the lowest price at the expense of service, selection and ambiance, you might as well go online, especially with free shipping and returns.

First of all, the free shipping and returns are not going to last. Amazon, in a sense, is already charging with its Prime membership. It’s also not sustainable, especially if the company is primarily selling shoes because the rate of returns is just too high. That aside, I agree that there has to be an entertaining experience aspect to shopping in a store or what’s the point?

For example, I have a home theater in my basement, but since a super-luxe theater opened not far from me, where the seats recline the whole way and they serve drinks and food, I don’t go into my basement to watch movies anymore. The point is that theater reinvented itself to get people to come again. And since it opened, I haven’t gone to a different theater either. I refuse. I will not sit in some uncomfortable chair and hurt my back.

How can shoe stores replicate that kind of reinvention?

Carrying products that you can’t easily find anywhere else is one way. They are also going to have to come out with technologies to make shopping for shoes more entertaining. I believe the fitting piece will also be a huge aspect of this. Scanning your foot, for example, makes it more experiential, not to mention provides a better fit. Feeling more comfortable—literally—after buying a pair of shoes can be a huge experiential draw.

The ability to customize shoes in-store is another way.

That too. And while not every store has to have a coffee bar, making shopping more inviting in general is a must. Stores have to become destinations or people will not go—like they stopped doing with regards to a lot of malls that got stale. The Chestnut Hill mall, for example, seemed as though it didn’t have a soul in there except the Apple store for the past six years or so.

Now, they’ve put in new restaurants and higher-end retailers, and there are more people in there. I’m not sure they are buying a lot, but at least traffic is up. Everybody needs to go through these types of transitions. Shopping has to be entertaining.

Drop-off and pickup services, localized assortments, in-store events, charitable tie-ins-—you have to engage with the local community.

Absolutely. Many retailers are beginning the process, and they have no choice but to reinvent themselves. Department stores, in particular, may have to work the way some do in Europe and China, where brands essentially own the inventory and tell a story within those stores.

What’s your general assessment of the retail disruption witnessed this year—has it been beyond what you anticipated?

Not really, unfortunately. The year before was just the beginning of that process and the disruption continued more so this year. And we’re still going through massive changes, or uplifting, of the entire industry. A year ago, these behemoths were starting to consolidate, and now it’s like we’re left with Walmart and Amazon. So many have been gobbled up by those companies, while many others have downsized or closed altogether. That’s why I believe brands must step up and merchandise properly. We need to decide how we’re going to show up on these massive platforms and how we show up on DTC and in the independents that are left, which also need to reinvent themselves, especially with some of these startup brands that are coming out with DTC models.

What’s your take on DTC going forward?

Looking at the industry overall, I expect DTC will become more important.

But we envision that channel more as a partnership with our independents.

For example, certain products may only be available on DTC and in our independents, but not available on the larger online dealers. It goes back to that whole merchandising piece.

What prevents a customer from buying a shoe on your site instead in a store?

Our DTC price will not be lower, for starters. And if they come to our site but want to try it on first, we’ll direct them to stores near them. Also, we’re not pursuing the brick-and-mortar piece of DTC. We don’t have stores like Nike and a lot of other brands and, at this point, we don’t intend on having any.

We still want to push customers to our retail partners. We are working hard on this effort, holding lots of trunk shows, for example. In addition, we’ll be coming out with POP reflective of our new marketing strategy that I think will benefit our retailers greatly. We’re very excited about it. Let me add that we consider our independent retail partners, in particular, to be the backbone of our brand. We spend more money—around 60 percent of our entire sales effort—on that channel because we believe we have to have them. They are the only ones that actually talk about our brand at the point of sale.

Any danger of a tipping point to a handful of behemoths and a bunch of brands selling DTC? I don’t think so. I believe there’s a younger generation coming up that will reinvent the independent store concept. If anything, I see department stores as more likely to go down the tubes than that tier and, as they do, independents may grow in replace of them. I’ll give you an example: The other day I wanted to meet someone for coffee and all I could find were Starbucks and Dunkin’ Donuts shops. Finally, I found a little shop near our office and thought how cool it was. I’m just sick and tired of going into all these cookie cutter shops.

It was such a refreshing change, and I think more and more people are >37

Refined meets FFANY, Booth 1108 Outdoor Retailer

Always waterproof. cougarshoes.com

rugged.

ETHIOPIAN EXPRESS The East African nation is ramping up sourcing capabilities, positioning the region (includes neighboring Kenya) as an up-and-coming hub for footwear manufacturing.

By Greg Dutter

L

OW-COST LABOR pool? Check. Abundant raw materials?

Check. Low electricity costs? Check. Shorter lead times to the United States market? Check. Lower minimums? Check.

Heavy investment in infrastructure and factory capabilities?

Check. Duty-free pricing? Check.

What’s not to like when it comes to sourcing shoes out of Ethiopia and neighboring Kenya? Making the region even more attractive is the ongoing seismic shift in footwear production worldwide. Newsflash: China is no longer the end-all, be-all sourcing partner, and the shift is happening at warp speed. Manufacturers and private label retailers have little choice but to adapt on the fly and find new reliable factory partners that can deliver quality merchandise consistently and, perhaps most importantly, quicker.

Lead times are getting shorter. Trends move far too fast today for brands and retailers to bank on them sticking around for months.

The fact is, however, no single country or region can make up for China’s shortfall as evidenced by the recent spikes in production in Vietnam, India, Indonesia and Turkey as well as a upticks in Brazil, Portugal, Spain, Morocco and Italy, to cite a few. Footwear production is spreading around the world and, thanks to new technologies like robotics and 3D printing, where and how shoes are made will continue to spread out.

Enter East Africa as one such potential sourcing hub. For about the past decade, Ethiopia, in particular, has been ramping up its footwear produc-

18 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2017

tion, opening new factories, training workers and building the necessary infrastructure to ship goods fast. In fact, Jordan Saliman, Ethiopia and Kenya footwear export advisor for the East Africa Trade & Investment Hub, a U.S. Agency for International Development (USAID)-funded project, says one of the country’s most attractive sourcing qualities is its speed to market. “The first development takes about 90 days and leads times shorten on replenishment orders,” he says, noting that cargo container shipments from Addis Ababa to Djibouti and then through the Suez Canal to the East Coast can be completed in 28 days. In addition, he cites low order minimums as another key selling point. “We’ve started business relationships from as little as 360 to 480 pairs and grown from there,” Saliman says. “As long as the factory doesn’t feel it’s a hit-and-run type of order, they’ll start with a smaller minimum and build upon that relationship.”

What’s more, the costs of production are highly competitive compared to China’s pricing, as are the quality of goods, according to Saliman. Thanks in part to the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA) that aims to open economies and build free markets of member countries, the shoes are allowed to enter the U.S. duty-free. Helping lower costs further is the plethora of raw materials in Ethiopia. The country has the largest hides stock on the continent and tenth-largest in the world. “The abundance of leather gives prospective brands lots of material options to work with,” Saliman says. In addition, Finn Holm-Olsen, AGOA trade advisor for the

East Africa Trade & Investment Hub, cites electricity costs, which are some Just how quickly could Ethiopia become a major sourcing partner? of the lowest in the world, as another factor helping keep production costs Saliman predicts it’s only a few years out, and it starts with seeing is believing. down. “From a factory standpoint, that makes it very attractive,” he says.

“Industry representatives that we’ve taken on factory tours have been awed Perhaps the strongest evidence that Ethiopia presents enormous potential by what they’ve seen,” he says. “When they see the designer labels working for footwear manufacturing lies in the investment it has been receiving in these factories, as are big companies, it just opens their eyes. It’s just from Chinese manufacturers to ramp up its production. “Asian factory the beginning.” Saliman adds that seeking out reliable sourcing partners investments have helped set a new standard and raised the bar of these in other countries just makes smart business sense today. “Brands need to factories,” Saliman says. “The factories are developing their own hand and look at their businesses as a tripod,” he says. “You can’t have live and die with character, building a strong reputation in men’s, women’s and kids shoes.” one sourcing partner today. You have to have collaborations with several In fact, several Chinese manufacturers are now making millions of pairs of factories and countries that you build your business on.” shoes annually in Ethiopia and shipping a portion of that to the U.S. under Last but not least, there’s a side benefit to helping build up Ethiopia’s big-name brands,” Saliman adds. footwear sourcing capabilities—one that goes beyond minimums, pricing In 2016, Ethiopia exported a little and logistics. It’s the human aspect, more than 2 million pairs of shoes to according to Saliman. Noting the averthe U.S., which represented about a age worker in China now earns about 24 percent increase over the previous $380 a month and the going rate in year. This year, Saliman says exports to Ethiopia is about $60 a month, he says, the U.S. are up 14 to 16 percent. And “Our job is to try to put as many of while the amount is still in the early these people to work so that they can stages relative to more established put roofs over their heads, send their sourcing countries, Holm-Olsen sees children to school, feed themselves, no reason why Ethiopia can’t grow to etc. Every new sourcing customer a similar size. “In the region, Ethiopia we bring into the country, every new is number-one, by far, in terms of footfactory we help open and every new wear production, so they are starting pair of shoes we ship allows them to from a good base,” he says. “And it’s a hire more workers and teach, train good base from which to develop given and develop their skills that betters the level of investments that are going the East African community socially, into the country.” Specifically, Holmeconomically and spiritually.”

Olsen says the Ethiopian government Saliman is proud to report the East has designated footwear and apparel Africa Trade & Investment Hub is makproduction as strategic priority secing solid progress on this overriding CASE STUDY: tors, and is going to great lengths to goal. “Our footprint is growing. Every ANZUKI RECYCLE DESIGNERS encourage investment from outside impression we make builds 10 more and within the country. “The levels of conversations,” he says, noting it will be MICHAEL NZUKI, DIRECTOR of Anzuki Recycle Designers, rode a investment are impressive,” he says. “As upping its promotional efforts in 2018 by bus for more than five hours from Malindi, Kenya, to visit the East brands look for new sourcing partners, exhibiting at more trade events (FFANY Africa Trade & Investment Hub headquarters in Nairobi earlier this Ethiopia is going to be high on the list.” and Magic, for starters) and organizing year. He met with Hub footwear advisor Jordan Saliman to seek Part of that investment includes more factory tours. “We’ll have a lot advice on how to increase his exports to the U.S. construction of a new rail line from more exposure this coming year,” he Nzuki currently employs 20 workers to hand stitch and bead Addis Ababa, the country’s capital, to says. “Our mission is to make people his sandals, bags and belts. His dream is to employ 100 people the port city of Djibouti so goods can aware of what East Africa has to offer be shipped overnight as opposed to the in the footwear and textile businesses.” some day, noting how poor villagers often show up to his factory current couple of days by truck. Saliman Finn Holm-Olsen believes the region looking for work. If he gains a more consistent market—something says Chinese investors are also helping is nearing a tipping point. “There’s a the U.S. could provide—he could hire them. build a “shoe city” near Addis that will buzz around Ethiopia, right now,” he Saliman, for one, is optimistic about Nzuki’s chances. He notes eventually employ 60,000 workers. A says. “The wow factor when people see the price point is attractive and the sandals are of a high-quality massive industrial park for PVH producit first-hand is genuine. Our job is to and fashionable. “He has a passion and feel for the product,” tion is also being built nearby. “China capture that as the technical assistance Saliman says. “He’s quite the entrepreneur.” Across East Africa, has to service the largest growing middle arm working with the factories, makSaliman believes there’s plenty more companies/opportunities like class in the world, and they can’t do it ing the introduction to buyers, helping Anzuki Recycle Designers. “The workmanship, value and passion themselves,” he says. “Developing the with samples, building relationships footwear sourcing capacity of Ethiopia caters to its own consumer market.”

for the products are strong,” he says. —G.D.

and, at the end of the day, getting them to export shoes to the U.S.” •

2017 december • footwearplusmagazine.com 19

s t y l e h a l l o f fa m e

B I R K E N STO C K B O STO N

KING CLOG Th e B o s t o n c l o g , f i r s t i n t r o d u c e d b y B i r k e n s t o c k

in 1979, has clicked over the years with granola types, grannies, grade schoolers and, of late, the glitterati—all who’ve become hooked on its comfort attributes and classic styling.

B y C a t Pe r r y

BIRKENSTOCK HAS GONE mainstream. The legendary 243-year-old German company, which first entered the U.S. market in the late ’60s, quickly became adopted as de rigueur by hippies and went on to become the standard bearer of the “sensible shoes” movement (think function over fashion). It’s blossomed amid the comfort-casual revolution, but Birkenstock is far from anti-fashion. Birkenstock is fashion.

But flash back to 1979 when Birkenstock’s Boston clog first dipped its covered toe into the marketplace. Back then, the brand was merely responding to growing customer demand. Specifically, the desire to stay comfortable year round. David Kahan, CEO of Birkenstock Americas, says the Boston clog was just a natural evolution of the brand’s popular sandals, like the Arizona and Madrid. “In the fall and winter, people still wanted the ultimate foot comfort, and Bostons offered much-need toe protection for when the weather turned cooler,” he says, adding, “All Birkenstock styles, first and foremost, are developed with a true orthopedic benefit in mind, so it’s less about the consumer profile and more about just making a really comfortable shoe.”

Like with every Birkenstock style, the Boston clog’s anatomical cork footbed molds to the foot as well as provides natural insulation. The shoe features plenty of toe room, and the arch support (including metatarsal, medial, lateral and transverse) acts like a healthy fitness routine for the feet. “You’re working your muscles and plantar flexing,” says Michael Schwartz, vice president of Eneslow in New York. “A Boston clog is like preventative medicine; it’s reworking the foot and allowing it to flex and strengthen. That technology dates back to the 1700s, but it still works.”

Jim Murray, owner of Murray’s Shoes in Littleton, CO, agrees that the footbed is the driving force behind the Boston’s long-running success in his store. “You can buy clogs anywhere with that design and upper and it won’t be the same, because of the footbed,” he says. It’s why so many of the store’s customers switch from the Arizona to the Boston when the weather cools.

“It’s just natural when the weather turns for people to jump into the Boston,” he says, noting the store first started carrying the style in 1991. “It’s still a key part of our business.”

Beyond the proven comfort attributes, Kahan believes what also makes the Boston a perennial seller (millions of pairs have been sold worldwide to date) is its gender-neutral appeal. “Like a Converse Chuck Taylor, it’s one of the very few true dual-gender iconic styles in the history of the footwear business,” he says. Another selling point, he adds, is the shoe’s authenticity. “People want the original, the real thing; and the Birkenstock Boston is as real as it gets,” 20 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2017

Kahan says. “Every shoe is largely made by hand in our own factories—this is true shoemaking—way different than being mass produced. People like knowing that this style represents genuine quality and craftsmanship.”

YOUNG AND THE RESTLESS College students were one of the first consumer demographics to really latch onto the Boston clog. “In the late 1980s, the style became a true hit in the Midwest and anywhere near a college campus,” Kahan says. “It was a bit of a counterculture statement.”

Danny Wasserman, owner of Tip Top Shoes in New York, who was one of the first East Coast retailers to carry Birkenstock, agrees that the Boston was a “big deal” with school kids back in the day. But it wasn’t because they were cool-looking. They bought into the comfort aspects, he says. “Most Birkenstocks are viewed as ‘ugly,’” Kahan says, agreeing the comfort factor is what has always created the love affair with the brand. “The beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and once someone wears a pair they become hooked; they are fans for life,” he adds.

From counterculture to mainstream, Boston clog sales continue to be strong, particularly of late. Kahan reports sales are up 50 percent this year over last.

First off, clogs in general are trending, and comfort as a fashion statement shows no signs of cooling. Even Gucci recently did its take on the Boston silhouette.

Retailing for up to $1,200, the style is reportedly selling well. It’s also the sort of knockoff that is more flattering than infuriating, according to Kahan. “It helps seed the broader demand, since we are the real thing,” he says.

Another cool seal of approval have been the recent Boston collaborations with Concepts, the sneaker boutique with outlets in Cambridge, MA, and New York. The first one, introduced in 2014, paired a bright orange felt upper and brass buckle with an eye-catching, stark white sole. The follow-up featured a super-clean leather upper that became more broken-in looking with wear.

“These collaborations sold out immediately,” Kahan says, adding the two are the most successful limited-edition styles the brand has introduced to date.

Another notable Boston collaboration was the quirky Sheherazade Birkenstock Boston x Opening Ceremony, for which paintings from artist René Magritte sat perched on the tops of baby blue uppers as a tribute to Belgium. Those sold like high-art hot cakes too, Kahan reports.

Further proof the Boston is trending young and hip is this season’s ad

by Journeys that depicts young Millennial women strumming guitars on a sun-drenched hillside, at a dance studio just before practice and taking silly selfies together—all wearing the iconic clogs. These gals are not your typical hippies. Far from it, in fact. The tagline, “Find your carefree comfort,” applies to everyday people as well as Hollywood A-listers. “Celebs like Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen and Julianne Moore are pictured often in Bostons,” Kahan says, adding Eva Chen is another fan. The former editor-in-chief of Lucky magazine and now Instagram influencer inching toward the

1-million-followers mark recently posted a picture of herself wearing black leather Bostons. The caption: “Okay, I know these shoes will be divisive. But they are coming back, resistance is futile! Don’t try to fight it.”

Wasserman reports the most popular selling Boston style at Tip Top Shoes is the classic black leather version—because it goes with everything. It’s the ultimate clean yet casual shoe for both men and women. Designer Marc Jacobs was the first fashionista to buy Birkenstocks from Wasserman, and now 70-year-olds and kids alike regularly buy the brand, he says.

Murray agrees the brand is hot again, particularly among younger consumers.

“Kids are seeing all these models and celebrities wearing the brand and they’re scrambling to buy them,” he says. “It’s a new age coming on with Birkenstock, which is a good thing as we older folks move on.”

Left to right: Concepts x Birkenstock “Boston”; Influencer Eva Chen, a Boston clogs lover, recently urged her 1 million Instagram followers to pick up a pair.

SHEARLING SMASH Blogger Gina Mama of ilovebirkenstocks.com agrees that the tremendous cross appeal of the Boston clog is what keeps it popular. “Anyone can rock the Boston; it’s a classic clog that can be paired with jeans, slacks, leggings, shorts, skirts or even dresses,” she says. If anything, Mama hopes for more daring takes on the style in the seasons ahead. “I want Birkenstock to step outside the box by making them in rich, vibrant colors,” she says, noting its Papillio line offers a narrower version of the silhouette in fun materials and colors that leaves regular-width Birkenstock wearers drooling with envy. She cites this season’s shearling-lined >37 2017 december • footwearplusmagazine.com 21

s t y l e h a l l o f fa m e

NEW BALANCE 998

COOL RUNNINGS Fr o m c u l t r u n n i n g s h o e t o l i f e s t y l e s t a t u s s n e a k e r, the New Balance 998 has withstood the test of time—and “dad shoe” infamy—by remaining true to its Made in the USA roots.

B y Ki r s t e n Ko b a

THE LAST MAJOR athletic brand to make shoes in the United States, New Balance has established itself as a true American icon. While 98.4 percent of footwear is imported according to the American Apparel and Footwear Association, the Boston-based brand continues to employ approximately 1,300 people and produce more than 4 million pairs of sneakers annually in its five stateside factories—including its iconic New Balance 998.

A uniquely American shoe, the 998 embodies the diverse spirit of the company’s U.S. roots with an appeal that spans from laid back dads to cutting edge kids, from committed runners to cultural creatives. Unabashedly itself, with its chunky sole, humble silhouette and limitless colorways, the 998 evokes an effortless and egalitarian style that is a hallmark of American cool.

“I would put the 998 up there with Levis 501s, Champion sweatshirts and Timex watches. When I think of American style it embodies it perfectly,” says menswear designer Todd Snyder, whose own limited 998 collaborations have sold out within days of launch. He adds, “When you see a guy wearing them you think, ‘Ah, he’s in the know.’ The 998 has always stood the test of time.

It’s always a classic.”

While the 111-year-old company, which boasts 2016 sales of $3.8 billion, declined to disclose how many 998s have sold to date, Steve Gardner, general 22 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2017

manager of Lifestyle at New Balance, says that the 998 is “one of the favorites in the organization and in the industry. It is definitely known for its comfort and consistency.”

The gray-on-gray 998 debuted in 1993 with an aim “to be the ultimate product in the New Balance running line,” according to Gardner. Building on the success of the 99x series and updating the famed 997 designed by “dad shoe” originator Steven Smith, the 998 introduced New Balance’s proprietary foam-based polymer Abzorb cushioning in the sole unit and integrated a stereo equalizer inspired support strap and a variable speed lace top eyelit for fit customization. “Air might have had the flashiness, but Abzorb in the 998 made it an iconic and beloved runner,” says Matt Kyte, a New Balance connoisseur who has illustrated every NB 1500 colorway through his 1500 Archive project and runs Contra, a contemporary fashion boutique in Brisbane, Australia.

“Well before its newfound status as a lifestyle shoe, the 998 was a cult classic amongst diehard runners, who often have a penchant for stubborn dedication to certain sneaker models,” he says.

When the 998’s big brother, the 990, hit shelves in 1982, it was the first athletic shoe to reach the $100 mark—a price tag that accompanied New Balance Chairman Jim Davis’ challenge to designers to make the most inno-

J.Crew x New Balance 998 “Green Back”

vative running shoe in the industry. While critics doubted a sneaker could sell for that much, no matter the technical innovations, New Balance doubled its first-year projected sales of 5,000 pairs within half a year and has since sold over 10 million pairs, earning the 99x series its cult status.

CLASSIC ROCK With the emergence of new performance innovations, the 998 has since transitioned from a shoe for die-hard runners (although is still attracts plenty of running enthusiasts) to a lifestyle sneaker for people desiring comfort, quality and American tradition, according to Gardner. “As time evolved and performance technology in running shoes moved forward, the consumer embraced the 998 for its classic NB styling as well as the great comfort and fit it provided,” he says. “The 998 represents New Balance quality and consistency at the highest levels. The consumer values the Made in USA aspect of this shoe as they know it brings something special to the product.”

As a lifestyle shoe, the 998 now captures American individualism and DIY spirit through its limited-edition collaborations, which in addition to Todd Snyder’s recent “Dirty Martini” and “Black and Tan” renditions, have included multiple programs with J. Crew; the 2015 Ronnie Fieg x New Balance 998 “City Never Sleeps” shoe inspired by the energy of New York; and five collaborations with Boston-based Concepts International, notably the 2013 hundred-dollar bill inspired “C-note” and the 2016 “City Rivalry” 998, an homage to Fenway Park.

Concepts Creative Director Deon Point notes that the 998’s detailed side paneling makes the shoe ripe for collaboration. “The paneling is pretty much limitless. We’ve dialed it down but we’ve also taken it up a notch. It’s like a playground for us. Rules are limitless and we always try to do new and different things,” he says. Concepts has sold upwards of 16,000 customized pairs of the 998 and has offered versions of the shoe upon availability since opening in 1996. “New Balance has been imperative to the growth of Concepts as a brand and retailer,” Point says. “They have consistently put out quality product and we have grown with them and tried to get the world to understand how creative a brand it is.”

In thoroughly democratic style, anyone can design an exclusive pair of 998s, no established brand name required. New Balance’s customization platform, known as NB1 Customize, allows consumers to choose from an array of colors and materials for their own 998s online, and then have their personalized shoes delivered within as little as two days. Richie Roxas, New Balance collector and assistant manager of the New Balance store in Philadelphia, believes that even sans customization the 998 lends itself to unique interpretation. “The 998 is a versatile shoe. It all depends upon the wearer,” he says. “Some people like to tie it really tight with their tight jogging pants; some people like to unlace it with the tongues popping out for a street look. It’s not just about color, but the way you wear them is diverse.” As for Roxas, who has upwards of 600 pairs of New Balance in his collection: “I like mine in the middle, sort of loose, sort of tight.”

Todd Snyder x New Balance 998 “Dirty Martini”

Concepts x New Balance 998 “City Rivalry”

POWER TO THE PEOPLE In addition to its seriously committed collectors, the 99x series has been adored by celebrities over the years, including Action Bronson (who even sports a NB tattoo), Kanye West, Ben Affleck and Hilary Duff. Yet New Balance has generally eschewed celebrity endorsements, instead positioning itself as a brand for the people. It wasn’t until 2009 that New Balance began regularly endorsing athletes following years of using the tagline “Endorsed by No One”. This ethos is reinforced by the brand’s use of a numbering system rather than flashy shoe names, and its reputation for catering to all types of people, especially those with hard to fit feet.

The 998 has reached iconic status precisely because it lies beyond the >37 2017 december • footwearplusmagazine.com 23

A N OT E T O M Y Y OU N G E R S E L F

GOLDEN RULES Fr o m A m e r i c a t o Ir e l a n d a n d b a c k a g a i n , N e a l N e w m a n , p r e s i d e n t o f t h e Tw o Te n F o o t w e a r F o u n d a t i o n , c o u n t s t h e v a l u a b l e l i f e l e s s o n s a n d p o w e r o f p h i l a n t h r o p y l e a r n e d a l o n g t h e w a y.

DEAR NEAL, Let me get right to it. Your life will not go according to the plan. That’s life lesson number one: Expect the unexpected.

Because when you are 13, your mother will get MS and never recover.

You won’t be able to make her better. Leaving your New York home for college is the right move, even though you’ll be racked with guilt. That’s lesson number two: You’ll have to move on and grab the life preserver.

In 1980, you’ll move to Chicago and work at The Native American Committee, a nonprofit helping Native Americans relocating to the city.

You’ll see such profound sadness and poverty; this job will break your heart but set you on a career path in philanthropy that you will absolutely love.

You’ll move to Boston to take the role of executive director of the Massachusetts Coalition for the Homeless. You’ll barely sleep for over a year. There, you meet Edel R. and her two wonderful kids, Ralph and Renny—all three beaten by her boyfriend. By rights, Edel should hate the world, but instead she is filled with remarkable grace, and she’ll say something important to you about letting the light in. Listen carefully, that’s lesson number three.

Years later, you’ll enter grad school at Tufts University just outside of Boston and earn a degree in Urban and Environmental Policy. Then sunlight enters your life—just like Edel predicted—and you’ll marry Orla, from Ireland, the love of your life. A few years later your son, Conor, is born.

Your next big move is to lead the Coalition for a Better Acre, a community-based development organization in nearby Lowell. You experience great success working on urban renewal projects that create affordable housing. Then comes your epiphany. Devout, humble, calm Fr. Jaime takes you aside after a community meeting one night and says, “People want to tell their story. Not everyone has the words. Help them find their voice, and the strength to tell their story.” It becomes your life’s mission, and that’s lesson number four.

In 1995, you move to Ireland. At Southside Partnership, you’ll be its first CEO and bring together city and county officials with community leaders, trade union activists and employers and build the largest antipoverty organization in Dublin. Your daughter, Jessie, is born and you make a career move into strategic fundraising consulting. You’ll learn a new role as advisor, mentor and fundraising strategist and raise millions for museums, hospitals and schools. You’ll work with Orla to open Ireland’s first children’s museum. Lesson number five: Never take the easy path. It doesn’t suit you.

When the economic crash hits Ireland, you’ll lose 75 percent of

24 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2017

your business in 18 months. Even though Ireland is your home, after 17 years, it’s time to move back to the U.S. Lesson number six: You’ll do anything you need to do for your family. You get a few good offers and you’re about to accept a job as a United Way CEO but, wait, what’s this? Two Ten Footwear Foundation? A charitable foundation for the footwear industry? In Boston?

After an initial Skype interview, you fly to America twice for interviews. For the final dinner meeting at an Italian restaurant in Boston, a driver has been arranged to pick you up from the airport and take you to the restaurant. When you arrive, there’s no driver. Fifteen minutes turns into a half hour and you realize that you do not know the name of the restaurant or where it is. It also dawns on you that you do not have recruiting committee chairperson Jim Salzano’s cell number. Lesson number seven: Always get the name of the restaurant.

You call Orla in Dublin on a pay phone. She says, “Hang tight.” Click. Five minutes later, Orla calls and says, “Take a taxi to Waltham to La Campagna. They’re waiting for you.” Click.

Indeed, Salzano and committee members David DiPasquale and Scott Savitz were and, after a few bottles of Chianti and some more chat, you accept an offer to become president of the Two Ten Footwear Foundation on the spot. You move back to Boston, on your own, in January 2012.

Orla and Jessie join you six months later, while Conor stays in Dublin to finish university. You’ll immerse yourself in Two Ten’s rich history of philanthropy and the footwear industry while readjusting to life in the States. There’s much to do, and you love your job. You’ll make the decision, after two years, that Dublin is where Jessie will thrive so Orla, Jessie and wonderdog, Tully, head-back to Dublin.

Remember, though, life is not always smooth sailing. You’ll find out that you have prostate cancer in 2017 and have it removed. Orla will move back to Boston as Jessie continues at Trinity College Dublin and Conor grows in his profession as a solicitor. Your life has been unpredictable but full to this point. You’ve experienced your fair share of hard knocks, but you have an abundance of great joy that fills your heart. You’ve led a good life, have great friends, two fantastic kids and a loving marriage. But there’s much more to do. There is a lot of pain and suffering out there, and we can all use more caring and kindness in the world. Lesson number eight: Be relentless in your pursuit of making life better for others. Never be satisfied with mediocre.

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

THE NEW GLIT TERAT TI Fr o m b u r s t s t o a l l o v e r t r e a t m e n t s , g l i tt e r g e t s i t s g l a m o n .

Clockwise, from top left: Zac Posen, Laurence Dacade, Wanted, Chinese Laundry.

2017 december • footwearplusmagazine.com 25

Dirty Laundry sneakers, Racil Suit, blouse by Pinko, Ex Mermaid glasses, Falke socks, Vita Fede earrings.

26

Tennies by Marc Fisher, Creatures of the Wind pussy-bow blouse, trousers and belt; Falke socks, Lady Grey earrings, rings by The Shiny Squirrel and Little Rooms.

Opposite: Emu Australia oxfords, Pinko jacket, top and skirt by Rachel Antonoff, vintage socks, Vita Fede earrings, pins by Danielle Nicole, Little Rooms and Vita Fede.

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Alice + Olivia by Stacey Bendet slip-ons, top by Creatures of the Wind, COS skirt, The Shiny Squirrel glasses, Vita Fede earrings and bracelet, Lou Grey collar; vintage socks, rings by The Shiny Squirrel, Aoko Su and Little Rooms.

Opposite: Cole Haan trainer (top left) and pom-pom slip-on by Seychelles.

31

Katy Perry tuxedo sneakers, Petersyn tops, pants by Pinko, Vita Fede earrings.

Opposite: Wanted sequined slip-ons, HKM dress, Lou Grey Earrings, sunglasses

by Ex Mermaid.

33

Platform oxfords by Silent D, Opposite: SeaVees tennies, Rachel Antonoff turtleneck, dress by Luba, Falke stockings, Vita Fede necklace, bracelet by Avocet Jewelry.

Hair and makeup: Nevio Ragazzini/Next Artists; model: Olantha/Fenton Model Mgmt.

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EDITOR’S PICKS

Leanne Marshall x Oceedee

Vince Camuto

D E S I G N E R C H AT

IN THE AGE of oversaturated media where a deluge of Instagram posts by a sea of influencers can drown up-and-coming trends into “been there, done that” looks overnight, designer Nicole Brundage believes her Marskinryyppy label lets women rise above the sameness: customization. Headed by the brand’s PVC-strap PauWau sandal, the designer has been giving customers who crave individuality just that with their choice of fabric, heel height and custom lettering.

“We’re the only brand that really offers the ability to personalize, which allows the consumer into the design process,” Brundage says. Kris Jenner, for example, shocked Brundage’s factory workers when she requested “Bad Bitch” be stitched across her PauWaus.

Marskinryyppy, which launched in 2014 and was quickly picked up by Barneys, personifies Brundage’s penchant for creative surprises and personal statements. “Marskinryyppy gives me the liberty to not change my aesthetic, but to have fun with the design,” she says. Even the name—pulled from a Wikipedia page on Finnish cocktails—is meant to be playful. “It represents a playfulness of something that’s well-made and fun that any woman can wear,” she says. “It’s practical yet unique.”

Thinking outside the box has always been part of the Texas-nativeturned-Madrid-resident’s design philosophy. With training at Italy’s Istituto di Marangoni and later earning her stripes designing shoes for Ferragamo, Hogan and Furla, Brundage describes the Marskinryyppy woman as someone who enjoys fashion tremendously, but doesn’t feel like she has to dress like everybody else. “She’s high spirited and likes to indulge in life,” she says, counting Beyoncé, Chrissy Teigen and Olivia Palermo as fans. “Normally we let brands like Gucci and Balenciaga influence us, but Marskinryyppy represents the element of surprise,” Brundage says. —Aleda Johnson How’s business? We saw huge growth this spring in our e-shop with the Kardashians tagging us on social media. Moving to 247 Showroom has also helped us sell five or six times the shoes, and Shopbop and Harvey Nichols have picked up the line. We’re really happy given the conditions of the market today.

What’s new for Spring ’18? We’ll continue the clean, minimal styling of the PVC, but in other styles with tinted and solid colors.

36 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2017

Cole Haan

Bill Blass

HELLO YELLOW

The sunny shade casts a warm glow.

We’ll also be introducing two heel heights of a pump in Amoray satin that can be customized like the PauWau. Where do you envision Marskinryyppy in three years? Even though it’s completely different, I’m interested in sneaker design. I love sneakers. I have an archive full of designs.

a new, elaborate way. Demna Gvasalia (creative director of Balenciaga), because I’ve always had a thing for the ’90s. When I was in my teens, I lived near San Francisco (graduated Stanford University) and used to rave a lot. He’s brought back that whole hoodie, high-waisted jeans, sock boots and pumps culture, which is a sexy subversive, fetish look. He’s brought back pieces we didn’t realize we were missing.

What might people be surprised to know about you? My real passion, apart from shoe design, is dancing. Just being expressive through the body. I’ve always tried to bring that aspect into the brand.

I would love to do videos with professional dancers wearing our high-heel shoes doing innovative dances.

What shoe styles in your closet are getting the most wear of late? Sneakers, because I’m American. I just love being comfy during the day. The classic pump and the simple strappy sandal are also crucial to my wardrobe. I think shoes, in general, should be easy to wear.

Who are some designers you admire?

John Bitossi, because he’s kept it simple and puts elegance above all else. Alessandro Michele has been a genius at Gucci, because he can bring past designs to market in

Is there a perfect shoe? Our PauWau is ideal. We offer so many different heights, and it goes with everything. You can clean it easily, it’s durable, lasts years and it’s quite sexy but still elegant.

E D I TO R ’ S P I C K S P H OTO G R A P H Y BY T R E V E T T M CC A N D L I S S

MARSKINRYYPPY

O&A continued from page 17/Earth Mover going to want to experience this type of change. Things go in cycles where everybody swings one way and then they swing the other. I believe that’s why we’re getting this revival of smaller brands popping up. People want something different, and independent retailers can help provide that experience.

Of the need to offer exclusives, better service and entertaining experiences, is one more important?

The whole merchandising piece is extremely important, but also challenging. The ability to manufacture shoes in smaller quantities is key, and that’s still a big challenge for the industry. We often have great styles that we have to drop out of the line because we can’t reach the minimum on pairs. We might have sold a couple of thousand pairs of a new cool bottom, but it’s not enough to get production done the way manufacturers are structured today. But factories are starting to introduce 3D printing and robotics that should allow us to make smaller quantities yet keep the price in check. It’s just a matter of time where we’ll be able to make as little as 500 pairs, if we wanted. How cool would that be?

Smaller quantities coupled with quicker lead times and more frequent deliveries, correct?

Absolutely. I think the idea of fall and spring lines is becoming obsolete.

It’ll slowly merge into a monthly new product cycle. We’re not there yet, but that’s where I see the industry going, and I think retailers are going to love it because every month it’s going to be fresh merchandise on their shelves. That’s another way to get consumers back into stores, by the way.

Today, they see the same stuff sitting on the shelves for three or four months.

That’s why logistics, technology and manufacturing are going to be huge investments for Earth going forward. We’re going to be spending a lot of money updating our systems so that we are ready.

At the very least, smaller quantities made closer to market should reduce error margins as well the carbon footprint.

Yes. I’ll be visiting a couple of domestic factories over next few months that are fully automated. However, 3D printing of all types of components is still another three years or so away. Another issue is no one in the U.S. manufactures components, so you still have to fly all those pieces in. But don’t get me wrong, it’s coming and if they are able to start 3D printing every component in a shoe, that changes the entire game. The technology is evolving fast and brands with the big bucks like Nike, Adidas and New Balance can really help move that process along.

Many of these changes will benefit the entire industry—those that are able to survive the disruption, that is.

Yes. I even read about an expert who is predicting that, within 15 years, we’ll be selling shoes the same way as iTunes sells music. You go online, see a cool shoe, click on it and you then download a file to your 3D printer at home that will create that shoe for you. Perhaps the shoes will also be in a store where consumers can try them on and them make the download. I believe that this will happen in some form.

Does such a possibility make you feel good about the future of the industry?

It’s too far in the future for me to worry about right now. (laughs) The thing that concerns me more now is the gap in pricing at retail. The $120 price point is working strongly and there’s a sprinkle of $200 points but then it jumps up to $600 to $800 and beyond. There’s little in between. I find that worrisome. The middle piece, much like the Middle Class, is disappearing.

What do you love most about your job?

That it’s continually changing, and I’m learning every day. One thing that I’ve realized in life is that we learn every day. We never know it all. •

continued from page 21/King Clog Boston in “beautiful Burgundy suede that I love” as a great example. (Mama’s wish will soon be answered, as Kahan says a dozen new Boston versions will be introduced for Fall ’18.)

Wasserman, for one, has been thrilled since Birkenstock first introduced shearling into the Boston style a few seasons back. “It’s really popular with women; and the lining means you don’t need socks with them,” he says. “Plus, shearling keeps feet warm while also wicking away sweat.” What’s more, he says that while anyone can line shoes with shearling, Birkenstock uses the material as an ingredient to a larger picture of comfort that’s paired with the fan-favorite cork footbed.

Eneslow’s Schwartz reports the Boston shearling version has been a hit with his customers as well. “Birkenstocks are on fire. Even my daughter, who is 14, is wearing them,” he says, noting that the shearling trend overall creates a stickiness factor for Birkenstock. “The younger generation likes to be comfortable now and it doesn’t hurt that celebrities are wearing the style,” he adds.

Also helping fuel the popularity of Birkenstock and its Boston clog is the wellness movement. It’s a macro lifestyle trend that speaks directly to the brand’s ethos. “Years ago, people didn’t go the gym, eat kale, hit juice bars and try to buy homegrown. Now that’s all changed,” Wasserman says. “Birkenstock is all about that, with its natural cork and leather and its ergonomic design.” When Wasserman spots someone wearing Birkenstocks it immediately makes him think two things: the person cares about their health and they are confidant in their appearance. “People who wear Birkenstocks are very secure within themselves,” he says. “Birkenstocks are like a great mattress where everything falls into place. Once you feel that, it’s very hard to switch. They can keep tweaking the uppers as trends change, but the core will stay the same.” •

continued from page 23/Cool Runnings buzz machine. Adrian Daniel, New Balance NZ brand ambassador and a collector who chronicles his love of the brand via his blog, “My Wife & Kicks”, says that rather than striving to create the hip shoe of the moment, “New Balance is a thinking man’s brand. It’s a brand for the self-assured, like Steve Jobs, who don’t need to be flashy to make themselves feel better.” He adds, “New Balance has always been a shoe for those who value quality over hype.”

As a “thinking man’s shoe”, it’s no surprise then that one of America’s most celebrated geniuses became the unofficial mascot of the 99x series.

While the late Steve Jobs’ signature style of black turtleneck, denim and New Balance certainly aligns with the “dad look” that the 998 is often equated with, Snyder points out that Jobs is, in fact, the epitome of cool. “He was always one of the coolest guys out there. He didn’t fit anyone’s mold. He was a trailblazer who created his own uniform,” the designer says.

In recent years, the 998 has tossed aside its “dad shoe” image, and according to Snyder is now seen as a fashion-forward shoe. “It was the first sneaker I saw worn with a suit. They really pioneered that look,” he says.

“The 998 is for a guy who is a little more cutting edge. He is somewhat dapper, but with touch of street style.” Snyder adds, “The 998 has transcended from the dad shoe to the it shoe.”

It is precisely this nonchalant, “I’m gonna do it my way attitude” that makes the 998 so very American, and such a shoe for the ages. According to Gardner, “There will always be trends that occur in the market that will ebb and flow but the 998 will always be embraced by the group of consumers that treasure its authenticity and craftsmanship.”

Unlike other iconic shoes that have come into vogue, slipped from style and then made a comeback, the 998 has been a steady player, and New Balance has never ceased its production in the U.S. “There are certain models that are tried and true, that withstand trends,” says Point. “There are those shoes that stay on the radar no matter what, and the 998 is one of them. The 998 was chosen by the people.” • 2017 december • footwearplusmagazine.com 37

U P C L O S E C O M F O RT

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Changing with the Seasons Bearpaw launches first-ever trans-seasonal collection.

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MOTHER NATURE HAS been quite fickle these past few years, with many parts of the country basking in an endless summer well into November and shivering in the cold grips of Old Man Winter deep into spring. John Pierce, president of Bearpaw, says the company has had enough trying to rely on the weather cooperating. Thus, the introduction of its first trans-seasonal line for women, designed to sell as a bridge between summer and winter.

“This collection bridges the gap because retailers are waiting longer to bring in our fur-lined products and customers are waiting longer to buy them,” Pierce says. “We felt there’s a need for an added line to fill that void.”

The trans-seasonal collection features lightweight options of Bearpaw’s signature fur-lined styles as well as closed-toe suede variations of popular spring canvas styles. Made of 100 percent wool uppers and sock liners, the collection of slippers, slip-on boots and zip-boots ($27 to $38 wholesale) are cooler and breathable, Pierce says. The color palette is also more transitional. Instead of charcoal gray, navy and black, russet cognac and forest green along with other warm earth tones are in the offering. In addition, velvet will be included as a material option, perfect for 25- to 45-year-old women to wear with jeans or to dress up. There’s also a faux curly hair wool slipper for a little whimsy.

Pierce says the new collection marks the next step in Bearpaw’s development as a complete lifestyle brand. “We started to transition into the shorter fur boots that are more feminine and fashionable in our other lines,” he says. “We want people to think of us as a shoe and boot brand, not just a fur boot brand.”

Along those lines, Pierce says the trans-season collection is meant to be sold from July 1 through mid-September. But, like with the past few warm falls, the styles could sell well into November. As for getting retailers to bite on the new collection, Pierce reports moderate success to date. He notes that a few customers have been hesitant to buy something not fur-related from Bearpaw, mainly because of how unstable the retail market has been. “People like the silhouettes,” he says. “It’s a matter of receipt dollars because retail hasn’t been the greatest, and they are being conservative when it comes to buying.” But that’s not deterring Pierce from making Bearpaw a year-round brand. “Our main intent is to become a 12-month brand for our retailers,” he says. “This collection puts us a step closer to that goal.” —Aleda Johnson

WHAT ’S SELL IN G

J

Boutiques

SLOAN Charlotte, NC

ILL SLOAN PLEUNE and her sister Courtney always knew they wanted careers in retail, which is exactly what the duo set out to do 17 years ago with the opening of their eponymously named Sloan boutique in the Queen City. Over the years, the store has expanded and moved locations five times—always to meet the wants and needs of it’s loyal fashion clientele. What began as a mall-based apparel shop has become a standalone, one-stop destination offering clothing, jewelry, accessories and, of course, shoes. “If you’re coming for an outfit, you can get dressed from head to toe here,” Pleune says.

Located in the upscale SouthPark neighborhood, the 3,000-square-foot space welcomes customers with floor-to-ceiling windows and a minimalist modern aesthetic (think white lacquered furniture and silver and gold fixtures), that lets the merchandise do the talking. “We wanted it to feel like the customer is walking into their closet, so all the merchandise is color schemed, even the footwear,” Pleune says. The organization, she adds, makes it easier to navigate the wide selection of merchandise, which includes popular shoe labels like Stuart Weitzman, Rag & Bone, Vince Camuto, Pedro Garcia and Rebecca Minkoff.

In addition to a unique selection and attentive service, Pleune credits the store’s long-running success to convenience.

“Our customers have always thrived on the ability to shop for what they want in one location,” she says. “It keeps them coming back.” —Aleda Johnson Who is your target customer? She’s 18 to 80, really. We have mothers, daughters and granddaughters—the whole gamut. Anyone who walks in can find something, but our main target is a young, very fit mom between 35 and 45 with kids at home. That customer has transitioned in her life since we started 17 years ago, so we’ve changed what we stock, going from heels to wedges and focusing on more mules, sneakers and booties. In general, we try to find a great-looking shoes that are comfy.

What are some new brands you’ve added to the mix recently? Mou boots have been a good addition this year. They’re like an updated Ugg but have built-in wedges and come in prints. They’re a good boot for winter. Rag & Bone booties have also been a good addition as have Pedro Garcia wedges.

Any surprises this year? The sneaker category has been huge for us. We used to only carry a couple styles per season, but with this athleisure boom every designer has them in their collection. We’re buying a wider range and including brands like Ash that are predominantly sneakers.

How’s business this year overall? Everything’s been really good. We’ve had a great fall, especially in shoes.

Considering the turbulent year for many retailers, what do you attribute that success to? Our one-stop shopping of a wide variety of three categories (clothing, jewelry and shoes) is what sets us apart. In addition, our customer service is excellent. Our staff is easy to work with and honest. People come here because of our service. We’ve also been doing pretty well with online sales, which we introduced about six years ago. It’s help expand our customer base beyond our local area.

What’s the biggest challenge facing your business right now? Competing with online dealers, which is more of an issue with shoes than clothing. The shoe industry is just getting tougher, and online and department stores have hurt. People can always find a better price somewhere else, and they have trained themselves to shop like that. Part of that has to do with the fact that the selection of shoe stores in the city is lacking. When we first opened, there were like six free-standing shoe boutiques in town and now there’s none.

So customers shop online.

What’s the smartest business decision you’ve made recently? Moving locations and giving ourselves a fresh start. When you move it forces you to review your inventory and buying, and if you need to adjust something you can. It been great for us.

How important is social media to your marketing efforts? Social media is big. Facebook is still a player, but Instagram has been great for us. We post daily because you have to keep your store’s face out in the public at all times. Our posts are more lifestyle-based, since we’re family-owned and want to make our customers feel like they know us on a personal level. We also sell via Instagram, which has been great.

What’s your main goal for the rest of the year? We want to get through the holiday season on a high note. November is usually tough for us since our holiday season doesn’t start usually until the first week of December. We’ve planned a lot of trunk shows and events like a men’s night out to give people an excuse to come into our store.

Where do you envision Sloan in five years? We’ve talked about expansion to nearby cities, but we’re really just trying to perfect what we’re doing here right now. We’re learning every day and getting better every day. We probably won’t add anymore categories, since we’ve already tried men’s, cosmetics, athletics, even prom. What we’re doing now is what works for us, so we’re going with that.

2017 december • footwearplusmagazine.com 39

LAS T WORD

Bespoke Bliss

One in a Milly Emily Jupp, the creative force behind Milly J Shoes, dreams up one-of-akind shoes and shoe sculptures that a r e m u s e u m - w o r t h y.

By Aleda Johnson

NEARLY EVERY SHOE designer refers to their creations as works of art. But not many take it to the heights of Emily Jupp, the designer of Milly J Shoes. The U.K.-based designer’s custom-made, one-of-a-kind shoes and shoe sculptures are worthy of museum exhibits— the Northampton Shoe Museum & Art Gallery in England, for one.

Milly J Shoes, which launched in 2011, has a strong following in the one-off, custom shoe market, first online and now in her Norwich boutique, All About Shoes.

“I want to give people something they can wear but also put on a mantel,” Jupp says.

“It’s important to work with those who really appreciate my work and buy the shoes with their hard-earned cash.”

Celebrities have also taken notice of Jupp’s work. After performing on

40 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2017

the BBC’s The Voice, Jupp, a classically trained opera singer, designed a pair of (non-edible) chocolate and strawberrytopped booties for judge, Kylie Minogue, an admitted chocoholic. “She had song called “Chocolate,” so I designed a pump of oozing chocolate (top right) with The Voice logo,” she says. “After my performance, I presented it to her and it was a great moment.”

Jupp also counts Boy George as a noteworthy fan, but she says celebrities are not her primary market. “It’s great for getting my name out there, but the bulk of my customers are regular people who say, ‘My friend would love that shoe!’” Husbands, for example, often come into the store (opened in 2016) with wild ideas—Harry Potter themed styles, for example—for their wives, while bridesmaids regularly commission Jupp to create something special to gift their bride.

It can take as little as a few days to generally five weeks for Jupp to complete an original design on classic pump, sneaker or bootie silhouettes. The more ornate creations (teapot shoes, for example) require up to three months to finish. The designs retail generally from $260 to $330 and up to $650. Jupp also offers select premade shoes in her shop between $40 and $140. All About Shoes, she adds, is a haven for shoe lovers with an array of shoe-themed cookie cutters, books and accessories.

Jupp’s shift from aspiring opera singer to award-winning shoe designer/retailer has been as organic as her design process.

Back in the late aughts, she sought a new creative outlet and started collecting shoes from around her house to make sculptures. She credits her upbringing in a home that encouraged freedom of expression and her theatrical background for helping fuel her designs. With some encouragement, she posted her work to Twitter and gained a quick following. To date, she’s crafted more than 350 shoe designs. This year, she launched a line of shoe clips, and has sold more than 200 pairs since January.

“They’re doing well because customers can easily revitalize a pair of comfortable shoes they already own,” she says.

As for the road ahead, Jupp isn’t looking to mass produce her creations just yet.

For starters, she’s at the purse strings of her mother/investor. There’s also trepidation that she could lose her bespoke ethos. “My customers want to know that nobody else is parading around in their shoes,” Jupp says.

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