WHITE acceptance in beauty fall 2017 _ volume 1
fsh 488: magazine and digital media publishing _ final review
WHITE HORSE MAGAZINE fall 2017_volume 1
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF SYAHIRAH KHAIRUDDIN CREATIVE DIRECTION SYAHIRAH KHAIRUDDIN CONTRIBUTORS ZANE GAN CHAW CHAW SU SAN VALENTIN MARCO
SPECIAL THANKS TO STEPHAN R ABIMOV K ATE NAK AMUR A ASH GAJARE TATA HARPER FENTY BAUTY GLOSSIER LISA PAO
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WORD FROM THE EDITOR PRODUCT REVIEWS EDITORIAL - LOST FOREVER EDITORIAL - AT THE STROKE OF NOON INTERVIEW - INDIVIDUALITY MAGNIFIED IN PHOTOGRAPHY FEATURE - BETWEEN LIFE AND HAIR OPINION - BETWEEN LIFE AND HAIR
EDI TORâ€™S LETTER 6
ARE YOU READY TO FACE YOURSELF? Beauty is not what you think it is. We live
Instead of believing in ourselves, we
in a world where beauty lives in bottles and
choose to believe in a molecule packed
tubs of formulas. At a young age, we are
exposed to the idea of how one must look.
magazineâ€™s mission: to be a part of change
We were raised to fit into a particular mold,
to celebrate real beauty. To bring new
to be a part of this perfection driven
significance to our society, to be the voice
society. Itâ€™s time we break this stereotype
for our community. This magazine is the
and embrace who we are: Imperfect, but
embodiment of acceptance as we are, with
real. I believe that beauty is so much more
wisdom and power to face reality as it is.
than just products that live on shelves. It
This is a true liberation.
packaging. This is my
is so much more than just a tint or a hint of color; it is an emotion that exists within us. Every human being on this planet has this sentiment, but they lay hidden underneath those layers of chemicals.
PRODUCT RE VIEWS 8
Itâ€™s a lot easier to take care of your outer self if your inner self is taken care of.
PRODUCT REVIEW 1
GLOSSIER: Embracing Beyond Faces 10
Glossier - Body Hero
A week ago, Glossier launched a new and
What sets Glossier apart from other brands
powerful launch for their latest product.
is that they have a very distinct branding and
Days before the launch, the Glossier account
message that touched an entirely different
on Instagram was flooded with posters
set of demographic. They believe in diversity
of diverse figures with “Body Hero” as a
and celebrates the beauty of minimal makeup.
statement. Fans of the cult beauty brand
Glossier shows interest in providing customers
were surprised with their very own body
with good skincare products and before
care line. This healthy addition to the brand
further strengthens their stand on creating a product that is meant for everyone.
The lifestyle that the brand is trying to encourage is using products that you need. Many
They released the ‘Body Hero Duo” which
of us are avid shoppers of drugstore deals, and
consists of Daily Oil wash and a Daily Perfecting
sometimes we buy things that we don’t even
Cream. What they did for this extension is build a
need. At Glossier, the lesser, the better. This is
formula that is great for the skin not only for face
ideal for those who are ready to throw away the
but the whole body. The ingredients are made of
old stash and start fresh with a simple routine.
coconut, sesame oil, grape-seed oil, sunflower oil as well as orange blossom neroli blend for fresh fragrance. These products are hypoallergenic and vegan. Founded in 2014 by Emily Weiss, The company was the product of a successful beauty blog that won over the hearts of the millennials. Weiss started “Into the Gloss” in 2010 where she had the chance to interview celebrities, make-up artists, and models about their beauty regime. After having experience in raiding vanities of successful women, Weiss started to gain more interest in building her beauty regime.
They believe in diversity and celebrates the beauty of minimal makeup.
PRODUCT REVIEW 1
FENTY BEAUTY: 40 Shades of Riri 12
Fenty Beauty bridges the gap for shade
Foundation isn’t the only thing that is giving
discrimination in the beauty industry and
this brand life, but if we know anything about
celebrates diversity by releasing the brand’s
Rihanna, it’s all about her glow. The ‘Trophy
first make-up collection this year. Rihanna,
Wife’ highlighter instantly became the talk of
the artist or better known as ‘BadGalRiRi’
the town with its great gold pigments.
released a curated variety of foundations, highlighters,
ultimately raised the bar for emerging beauty brands. With over 40 shades in total, the foundation Rihanna and her team formulated became the hallmark of the brand, giving rise to a new product line for people with different skin needs.
Although the collection is celebritydriven, what remains innovative is including all ranges of skin tones. The artist has always been vocal about prejudices she experienced in her industry. It’s refreshing to see the brand focus on filling the gaps that the beauty industry seem to overlook. Based Finally, now, there is a product meant
A video went viral across social media
for everyone. industry. It’s refreshing to see
where Rihanna herself was preaching about
the brand focus on filling the gaps that the
the work that she has put on her brand.
beauty industry seem to overlook. Finally
Rihanna told Harper’s Bazaar, “The biggest
now, there is a product meant for everyone.
challenge was making sure that each product covered all skin tones, and it was a challenge I was up for, I didn’t care how long it took, I was going to make sure that we covered most skin tones,” The artist further emphasized, “Diversity and inclusivity are relevant to the brand. I hope that fans, makeup lovers, and makeup artists feel that.”. Rihanna’s vision for the cruelty-free brand is something that a lot of consumers seek for, and it is an excellent addition to the market. Fenty Beauty is considered to be an upscale brand with an affordable price tag. True enough, the Pro Filt’r Soft Matte Foundation is priced at $34 while the highlighter and contour match stix sit at $25.
Foundation isn’t the only thing that is giving this brand life, but if we know anything about Rihanna, it’s all about her glow.
PRODUCT REVIEW 3
TATA HARPER: Healing with Nature 14
Tata Harper is the founder of Tata
The moisturizer took three years to
Harper, the brand that has been the latest
complete, and Harper and her team took
craze for skincare fanatics. Originally from
their time to find the right blend of the
Barranquilla, Colombia, Harper was inspired
most velvety smooth, moisturizing cream.
to create her line of skin care after the death
The cream is the reminiscence of an icon,
of her stepfather. She had realized that a lot
according to the brand. They believe that
of products although it is claimed healthy,
every woman has an idol in their mind that
has chemicals that are highly hazardous.
taught them the ways to improve self-care.
Harper then started spending time looking
Therefore, they created this product for
for the best natural ingredients to make
their customers and their icons.
simple skincare products. What Harper believes in is the importance of knowing what ingredients are being used in these products. She wanted to redefine the skincare industry by combining luxurious ingredients to create effective formulas. Harper mentioned on her website that, she chose to focus on beauty and wellness because she had noticed that in our fastpaced life today, we need more products that aids to our wellbeing. Her products are meant for women who are interested in wellness and beauty, women who are looking for products that they trust. This, of course, is a good quality for Tata Harper because as a business owner, she is not only looking at the revenue but she is also seeking to inspire women with the same concerns as her. Her latest launch for her brand is the unveil of their Creme Riche, a moisturizing facial cream.
she chose to focus on beauty and wellness because she had noticed that in our fast-paced life today, we need more products that aids to our wellbeing.
FOREVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY LISA PAO
STYLED BY CHAW CHAW SU SAN
AT THE STROKE OF NOON PH OTOGRAPHY BY ZAN E GAN
INDIVIDUALITY MAGNIFIED IN PHOTOGRAPHY
a conversation with zane gan.
From sculptures to paintings, monuments to grand architectures,humankind have always had high regards for things of beauty. When the art of photography came along, a whole different perspective took over the society, further åraising the bar for what qualifies as attractive and appealing. Somewhere along the way, with the rise of technology; the growth of the economy beauty is no longer subjective. Instead, it has become an objective. An objective for people to attain for them to belong in society.
Right off the bat, what is
beauty to you?
Personally, this idea of beauty
is so much more about what’s going on inside, and you know, personality. I know it sounds cliche, but it is what is. It is really about how you treat yourself and how you treat others. You know, that’s what I look for in people. I fall in love every day whenever I take the subway because I meet so many people that are so much more than their exterior and you can tell
To Malaysian photographer, Zane Gan, this
that they are genuine just by looking at
is especially true. Based in New York, Zane
their body language. Or sometimes, you
discovered his love for photography at a very
can’t tell at all!
young age before pursuing it in America.A couple of missed calls and raincheck later, I finally got to sit down and talk to him via FaceTime to converse about the ideals of beauty and what it meant to him as an industry photographer.
S:Definitely! I would say that meeting people
sometimes what really matters are invisible to the eyes. Coming here to the United States, has it changed the way you view beauty? How is that different to what you grew up with?
Z: It’s easy to answer this…I would say that since I was young, I have always been a visual kid. Started out with playing a lot of video games and watching television. From there, everything trickled in, and I was profoundly influenced by what was portrayed by the media which was the first influence to shape my perception of beauty. As I grew up and started understanding the way the industry work, I realize that things are much more average
INDIVIDUALITY MAGNIFIED IN PHOTOGRAPHY
and typical. Nowadays, the standards of beauty are being set by big companies…and as an individual, I’m not into conventional beauty. Even when I am shooting, I prefer the whole little to no makeup look. I think it is very pure and what’s great is that it also accentuates my subject’s real beauty.
Do you think that since a lot of things
are transitioning into digital, is it redefining the way we look at charm and appeal? I mean, before this magazine would be our bible. Beauty was such a prestigious thing, but nowadays, we have beauty gurus, influencers and what not. Do you think it’s losing its value with the emerge of the Internet?
Z: Well, I would say that print magazines are dying. Nylon magazine is going out of business; most magazine publishing companies are going digital. However, contemporary publications on the other hand, they are shifting paradigms. They are much less commercial and much more expressive creatively! They are continually trying to raise the bar, and you can see that they are making an effort. The way I see it, there’s always going to be a yin and yang. The industry needs balance so while magazines like Vogue or Elle continue to raise their standards of beauty, contemporary magazines are embracing it. For instance, we see more androgynous models in modern publications like Paper or the Gentlewoman. Honestly though, beauty should be about glorifying our stance and showing love and support to our friends.
We are all on this planet together so we shouldn’t be prejudices.
As a photographer, Is there a
barometer or a gauge of what is beautiful to you? Do you have any ideals ?
hmm.. I’d like to say I do but like I
mentioned, beauty to me is really about what’s within and you know it really doesn’t concern me anyway. When I’m shooting someone, the challenge of trying to find that perfect angle, with the right lighting, that’s the best part because every model is different. So as a photographer, I take my time with them, so they are comfortable enough to let the real them shine through my lens.
It’s so easy to let our insecurities
take over, especially since everything is uploadable online.
Z: Ya, that’s the thing, you see. Growing up, I had to deal with a lot of things.. especially my looks, my appearance. It honestly shaped me as a person because then, no one cared about me. No one paid attention to me because of the way I used to look and that really showed me a lot about people. I think personal beauty is a very intimate matter that one should deal with for themselves. It might take their whole life to figure out, but there’s nothing more important than making sure
INDIVIDUALITY MAGNIFIED IN PHOTOGRAPHY
that the outside matches the inside. In
when you shoot film it is much more real and
the end, it makes no difference if people
untainted.It’s all about that physical light
acknowledge you or not, it matters if you
of the moment. Film photography to me
is just all about rawness and authenticity.
S: What about beauty for men? Do you think that men are more conscious about their looks now?
I don’t usually retouch my photos unless it’s the contrast or highlights that needs finetuning. Whether it is digital or analog, they both take time to produce. With digital, I
Men are definitely more conscious
have more components to think about, the
now. Even menswear is becoming so huge.
same with film because I have to plan my
There are so many fashion brands that are
starting to put more focus on men’s fashion and beauty. Have you heard of SuitSupply? Well the name says it all! [laughs] You know…for the longest time fashion and beauty have always surrounded women but now men are given equal opportunity to dive into this world. Men are much more aware now of what they wear, how they want to look like.
S: Lastly, about your shooting process.. Do you shoot digital or analog? How does that shape the perception of beauty?
Z: I do both! As you already know, photo manipulation is the biggest thing right now. It’s so easy to snap a photo and drag it on to photoshop and touch up as much as your heart desires. I think that is the only drawback is that it becomes too accessible for people to change the way they look. That’s the unhealthy part. But of course,
S: Thank you so much for your time, Zane. I’m glad we managed to catch up and talk about how much beauty has evolved in the 21st century. Especially from your point of view, being a photographer and all.
beauty should be about glorifying our stance and showing love and support to our friends. 37
BETWEEN LIFE AND
I LLUSTRATI ON S BY VAL EN TIN M AR CO
There have been explicit indications that while the world is progressing forward, some views may still be stuck in the past. Take hair for example, never has there been such a controversial part of our body such as hair - the most distinguishable aspect of our anatomy. Hair does not appear to have a purpose other than keeping our heads warm; it has become a fixation and beautification for vanity; a depiction of individuality; a demonstration of defiance.But more than that it has become a uniform.It separates the haves and have-nots, it dictates one’s eligibility in a workplace, it divides and separates races, it divides and surpasses men and women of all gender.Even in death hair continues to grow, trailing behind us as we transcend into the afterlife. Ethnicity and Race The most common misconception of hair often relates to ethnicity and race, a dilemma faced by many AfricanAmerican men and women. Cree Ballah, a Zara employee in Toronto, faced discrimination as her managers pointed out that her hair was unprofessional. “My hair type is also linked to my race, so to me, I felt like it was direct discrimination against my ethnicity in the sense of what comes along with it,” Ballah told CBS News, ”My hair type is out of my control, and I try to control it to the best of my ability, which wasn’t up to standard for Zara,” (i-D). Now, anyone can agree that there is no link between hair and work performance, braided or not. The fact
that a lot of corporations and companies do not even consider these issues only proves their ignorance and insensitivity, causing a laggard in eliminating racial objectification specifically in a work environment. Uniformity in Religious Hair Although the world now is accustomed to differences that exist within a community, there are instances where the cards were flipped.Nine times out of ten, Muslim women found themselves oppressed and discriminated for wearing hijab.First of all, hijab is a headscarf that is used to cover one’s hair, a religious obligation for Muslim women which has become a symbol of uniform for the majority. Secondly, it is safe to say that most hijab wearers choose to wear such a garment not because it is mandatory but because it is a choice. A self-made decision. Just recently, Pharrell William’s protege Yuna, a headscarf wearer herself said in an interview with Steven J. Horowitz, ”People say, ‘You should let your hair out; you shouldn’t be oppressed -you’re not in Malaysia anymore. You should
show your curves and be proud of it.’ But I am proud -- it’s my choice to cover up my body. I’m not oppressed -- I’m free,” (billboard. com). To still carry on with that type of mentality is a subtle act of bigotry. Muslim women believe that covering the hair and the body signifies the concept of modesty - something that is no longer normal in the society today, unfortunately. The lack of respect for one to honor their religion by covering their hair is upsetting, particularly for those that have integrated the hijab into their everyday lifestyles. Rebellious Hair Just like punk rock kids in the 70s were with their rebellious innuendo to fight the norm, a group of feminists today is finding ways to break patriarchal influence on beauty by not shaving their underarms. As strange as this may sound, this act of insurgency bore its specific rationale behind it. Bobby Crowley, a student who is part of this fascinating movement told The Huffington Post, “It’s not just a body image thing, but it’s also a gender thing, This is very clearly a gendered prescription that has been put upon women, whereas men are walking around and no one expects them to shave their armpits. People will talk about it like it’s a hygiene thing, but really it’s a gender thing. It’s absolutely only prescribed only to women, and there’s no way that women are any messier than [men], that’s for sure,” (The Huffington Post).
Which is a good case in point, because women are always expected to be perfect and flawless day in, day out. Another similar perception is of men with clean shaved head; perceived as manly and dominant. Often related to masculinity, it is commonly seen in law enforcement or military. Albert Mannes, a lecturer at the University of Pennsylvania, explained, “Society places such a high aesthetic value on hair, it takes confidence for a man to dispense with it,” (NBCNews). This considerable sacrifice clarifies the society’s claim on men with shaved heads. Yes, there are other ways to show protest and objections. However, sometimes the most obvious is the most powerful. The message behind this informs people of all genders to stop painting each other according to their desire and that they should accept each other as they are.
Even in death hair continues to grow, trailing behind us as we transcend into the afterlife. 43
Rain Dove She is not the first androgynous
Every time I put on a new garment, do a
model to be making changes in the
new shoot theme, or don new makeup, I am
modeling and fashion industry, but Rain
exploring another person’s vision of how
Dove is undoubtedly bringing her name
they see me. This has allowed me to define
and enjoy/face sides of myself I wouldn’t normally. It’s made for some fascinating stylistic discoveries such as the fact that I enjoy the temporary feel of high heels, the pressing of corsets, briefs over boxers,” (The Huffington Post). It allows the society realize that it is okay to wear any hairstyle, manly or not, so long as it empowers and inspires them.
men and women roles, a substantial achievement for a model in this age. What enables her to pull off this style is not only because of her features but also her hairstyle. Back in the day, hairstyles were explicitly categorized for men and women - men with hair no longer than the neck and women with hair no shorter than an inch. It was a stigma that plagued the society for the longest time, but that changed when fashion was in favor. Models are the epitome of pushing boundaries much like Dove’s audacious move
appearance, bringing diversity to the industry with her unique and eccentric flair. In an interview with The Huffington Post, Dove expressed her experiences in the fashion world, “Not everyone will see your beauty, and not everyone will find you attractive or believe you are worthy of their clothing or publications. You have to be satiated with just being authentically yourself at the end of the day.
In every aspect of pressing social issues, hair seems to be a factor of objectification. Whether it is concerning gender or from a perspective of race or rebellious portrayal or even in fashion, it is continuously growing to be a social epidemic that should not also be a problem anymore. For every step taken to move forward, a step backward will undo significant achievements. The society should try to reconfigure their mentality in a way that will create a better environment for every person without having to subjugate them. Change for the better is never really a bad idea.
E MOTI ONAL B EAU TY
anxiety and depression caused by social media and what it means for our self-esteem.
Beauty is how you feel inside, and it reflects in your eyes. It is not something physical.
It is official. Social media is the death eater
for like, sharing emojis - technology companies
of our modern day lexicon. Hardly have we seen
are racing to mimic real-life interaction for us
such a prevalent crisis, undetectable yet lives
to communicate online. According to the data
right under our noses. It’s easy to deny the fact
collected by Omniore, Instagram receives a
that we are addicted to a rectangular screen,
whopping 400 million users active on their
putting all our trust and confidence to a machine
created by our kind. Mostly, too much of anything is unhealthy for our well-being, but social media, in particular, has been said to cause anxiety and depression amongst millennials.
While Sprout Social, a social media management company revealed: “35% of Instagram users check Instagram multiple times a day and 51% open the app daily.” (omnicoreagency.com).However,the
Anxiety and depression is an actual cause
statistics show that the mass majority are more
for concern. Research shows that social
interested in looking down at their phones
media platforms like Instagram or Facebook
instead of making actual communication. This
are common denominators for the rise of the
type of isolation is the culprit that brings people
mental health issue. The culture of scrolling past
down because neglecting a tangible connection
#bodygoals and #throwbackthursdays; swiping
in exchange for likes and views is more gratifying
left and right for the best matches is silently
affecting our social interactions, our self-esteem
conversation with a random stranger on the bus
and ultimately, our emotional health.
becomes a challenge.
We are lucky that in this day and age, we can
Too many over-filtered, unrealistic images flood
communicate with our families, friends, favorite
the pages of the world wide web. Everyone is
personalities and even strangers at the touch of
trying to portray this reality behind their lenses
a button. Thumbs up, thumbs down, double tap
just for the sake of getting noticed and gaining
followers. Of course, not everyone is submerged in the world of manipulating jawlines and cheekbones. If its any consolation, these are entertainment platforms and there’s nothing wrong with showcasing happiness and fun memories. Nonetheless, it poses a threat to our selfconfidence when we succumb to society’s expectation and do it for ‘instant gratification.’
Jimmy Rohampton, contributing writer for
users experience envy of the activities and lifestyles
Forbes, noted in his article, “A 2016 study
of their friends on Facebook, they are much more
out of the University of Pittsburgh School of
likely to report feelings of depression.”(munews.
Medicine surveyed 1,787 U.S. millennials and
found that subjects who reported the most frequent use of social media had 2.7 times more likelihood of depression than those who used it less frequently.” (forbes.com). It makes sense because overconsumption of the digital world disconnects us from human interactions.
Emotional Health What aggravates the situation, even more, is the fact that we compare ourselves to other individuals. Having an online profile is one thing, but using others as a gauge to make ourselves
subjected to varying lifestyles since not everyone is as devoted to the online world as some. The digital age has no doubt revolutionize the way our society operates but it is also altering our definitions in life. Beauty should be romanticized, not criticized. Anxiety and depression is a growing rash, and it shouldn’t be left untreated. With the right prescription, we can change this ethos because no one should be told how they should portray themselves both online and offline.
feel better is another. Margaret Duffy, a professor at the MU School of Journalism at University of Missouri claimed, “ if Facebook is used to see how well an acquaintance is doing financially or how happy an old friend is in his relationship—things that cause envy among users—use of the site can lead to feelings of depression.”. Based on the research they have conducted, they found that users are prone to develop negative feelings when exposed to social media. She further discussed, “We found that if Facebook
the end. 53
ETIHW ytuaeb ni ecnatpecca 1 e m u l o v _ 7 10 2 l l a f
FALL 2017 _ VOLUME 1