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Watermelon FOOD & FIRE GARDEN TIKI COCKTAILS TOMATOES

SUMMER 2019


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CONTENTS summer 19

3 What's Up Sweet Paul 6 My Happy Dish 8 Handmade 10 Mormor's Kitchen 12 From Tree to Table 19 Bookmarked 20 To Market, To Market 22 Healthy Appetite 28 Unplugging to Reconnect 30 Put a Lid on It! 32

Woof

PHOTOGRAPHY BY NATALIE CHITWOOD

features 36 Playing with Food and Fire 52 Grow Your Garden 62 Passport to Paradise 72 When Paul Met Trina 80 Wild About Watermelon 90 Sweethearts of Summer 102 A Maker's Guide to Paris 110 Cheers FOLLOW US @SWEETPAULMAGAZINE

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Paul Lowe Founder & Editor-In-Chief paul@sweetpaulmag.com Paul Vitale Marketing & Business Development Director paulvitale@sweetpaulmag.com Joline Rivera Creative Director joline@sweetpaulmag.com Nellie Williams Graphic Designer nellie@sweetpaulmag.com Leigh Angel Copy Editor copyeditor@sweetpaulmag.com Advertising Inquiries advertising@sweetpaulmag.com General Inquiries info@sweetpaulmag.com

CONTRIBUTORS Ed Andrews Lova BlĂĽvarg Susanna BlĂĽvarg John Bodenschatz Alejandro Cantagallo Alison Carroll Natalie Chitwood Noah Fecks Jocelyn Guest Brandon Harman Michaela Hayes Lisanne Helling Dorie Herman Alina Mendoza Jonah Miller Shannon Mustipher Erika Nakamura Brady Smith Hillary Sterling china squirrel Tiffani Thiessen Trina Turk Alexandra Villefrance Kevin Wolf

Follow us on Instagram @sweetpaulmagazine @jolinerivera @otherpaul @paululowe @paulloweceramics


WHAT'S UP SWEET PAUL

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ALINA MENDOZA

For many people, summer is chill, a time for relaxation and vacation. But for me, summer is the busiest time of the year. At Sweet Paul, we usually shoot the holiday issue in the middle of summer. It’s not always easy to get into the Christmas spirit in July, I can tell you. But cranking up the AC and putting on some holiday tunes helps get us in the mood. Happy Holidays! My partner James organizes the Phoenicia Flea, a nomadic makers market that pops up in Brooklyn and upstate New York, the Berkshires in Massachusetts, Asbury Park, New Jersey, and more. I love being a part of the markets, selling both Sweet Paul Magazine and my Paul Lowe Ceramics. I also get to meet amazing people, make friends with the other vendors, and just hang out outside in the most beautiful locations. I’d love to see you at one or all of them. You can find more info at PhoeniciaFlea.com. Have a very happy summer everyone! Lots of love,

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[ SWEET PAUL STOCKIST SPOTLIGHT ]

Darvill’s Bookstore Eastsound, WA

What makes Darvill’s Bookstore a sweet spot to visit? That the store has been owned and operated by Jenny Pederson for 37 years says a lot about how an independent bookstore can thrive when it is well tended, carefully curated, and supported by a strong community. The store is small, but packed with a varied offering of classics, fiction, nonfiction, and children’s books. We’re honored when customers tell us what a great selection of books we carry. And then there’s the aroma of Batdorf and Bronson coffee as soon as you open the door and step inside. What could be better than books and an amazing cup of coffee.

Where in your store does Sweet Paul find its place and who brings it home?
 Sweet Paul is either placed on the top row of the magazine wall so you can see it through the front window or in our cooking section with a display of new culinary objects. It goes home with young moms for craft ideas, cooks of all ages, and anyone who appreciates a beautiful publication. What’s your favorite Sweet Paul recipe or craft idea?
 This is a hard one because there are so many great recipes. We’d pick the “Everyday Pasta,” which is quick, seasonal, and so delicious.

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY SOMELAB: ED ANDREWS

How would our readers spend the rest of their day after visiting the bookstore? We believe that we live in one of the most beautiful places on earth. You can spend days in Moran State Park camping, hiking, biking, and swimming in pristine lakes; kayaking and whale watching in the ocean; or just hanging out at Doe Bay Resort and reading all day. There are excellent restaurants, such as Roses for lunch and the Inn at Ship Bay or Hogstone’s for dinner. And there’s always Rosario Resort and Spa for a facial or massage. If you prefer a more relaxed day, the village of Eastsound has numerous shops to visit, like Très Fabu, Olga’s, and Springboard for clothing and the Nest for gifts.


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MY HAPPY DISH This dish makes me happy because...

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Everything cake This cake has it all. Literally Food + Text + Photography by Paul Lowe Recently, I was talking with my sister who lives in Norway, and, as usual, the conversation turned to food. She had found a recipe in my mother's papers called The Everything Cake. I can clearly remember this cake from my childhood. It was a wild mashup of Ritz crackers, peanuts, chocolate, strawberries, and eggs—I guess that’s where it got its name. It’s really fun to eat and not hard to make. I hope you enjoy baking it as much as I do. SERVES 8

3 eggs, whites and yolks separated 1 cup sugar 32 Ritz crackers, crushed 1 cup unsalted peanuts, coarsely chopped + extra for topping 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 teaspoon baking powder 51/2 tablespoons butter 31/2 ounces good-quality chocolate, grated + extra for topping 2 tablespoons + 1 teaspoon sugar, divided 3/4 cup heavy cream 1 cup strawberries, hulled and chopped fresh mint 1. Preheat oven to 350ºF. Butter a 9-inch, round springform pan. 2. In a mixer or by hand, beat the egg whites until soft peaks form. Add the sugar a little bit at a time until you get stiff peaks. 3. Fold gently the crackers, peanuts, vanilla, and baking powder into the egg whites. 4. Spoon the mixture into the prepared springform pan. 5. Bake for 25 minutes or until set. Remove from oven and set aside to cool. 6. In a medium saucepan, melt the butter over low heat. 7. Melt the chocolate and 2 tablespoons of sugar, stirring constantly. 8. Stir in the egg yolks, one at a time. Mix well in between each yolk. 9. Remove from heat, and let cool to room temperature. 10. In a mixer or by hand, with heavy cream and remaining sugar, make whipped cream. 11. To assemble, place the cake on a serving plate and top with chocolate cream and whipped cream. Sprinkle with peanuts and grated chocolate. Decorate with sliced strawberries and sprigs of fresh mint. Keep the cake in the fridge until serving time.

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Handmade Inspiring DIY Projects from Lova

Pop-up playhouse Create a charming dream home with a piece of paper and your imagination Text by Lova Blåvarg + Photography by Susanna Blåvarg

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When I was little, I loved playing with pop-up paper houses. I had a fairy garden, a haunted house, and—my favorite—a little model of Vincent Van Gogh's house. As an adult, I’ve decided to take a minimalist approach to the paper house—that can still be colored and decorated by creative little ones. SUPPLIES

house stencil or template 2 sheets of heavyweight paper craft knife sewing thread hand-sewing needle 1. Sketch your own house with doors and windows, or print out mine from SweetPaulMag.com. 2. Fold two rather heavy sheets of paper down the middle. Cut out the outline and windows with a craft knife. 3. Place the two sheets of paper on top of each other, and sew a few stitches in two or three places along the fold. Make a floor from a third piece of paper if you want. 4. Ready for move in!

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mormor's kitchen Carrying on my Grandma's cooking

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Summer Christmas carnitas When you love celebrations as much as we do, one Christmas a year just isn’t enough. Food + Text + Photography by Paul Lowe Our family traditions were mostly normal. But one thing set us apart. We always had a Christmas dinner in the middle of summer. My mom loved the holidays, so this was her idea. The rest of us did not complain, as we all shared the fondness for pork belly. Our Norwegian Christmas dinner was, and still is, roasted pork belly with the skin on so you get that amazing crackling. My mom made the best pork, and her crackling was the crispiest ever. Christmas in Summer

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would be served outside in the garden with potatoes, spouts, gravy, and lingonberries. We would all dress up, and each person would bring a gift. It was a really cute tradition. I have tried to keep it going here in the U.S., but a couple of years ago, I could not find pork belly with the skin on. I was complaining to James, and he said, Let’s make carnitas. It’s the same flavor, and you get a little crispiness from the meat. Carnitas it was, and it was truly amazing. So now, every year, I do a carnitas Summer Christmas dinner. I eat mine rolled up in a tortilla with some sweet mustard and lingonberry jam. Long live traditions, new or old. God Jul! Merry Christmas!

Carnitas SERVES 6 WITH LEFTOVERS

1 tablespoon salt 1 teaspoon cumin 1/4 teaspoon chili powder 1 teaspoon black pepper 1 teaspoon oregano 1 teaspoon thyme

4 to 5 pounds pork shoulder 4 garlic cloves 1 yellow onion, chopped juice from 2 limes 1/2 cup orange juice 1/2 bottle of beer 1. In a small bowl, mix all the dry spices. Rub spice mix into the pork shoulder. 2. In a slow cooker, combine the meat, the remaining spices, garlic, lime, orange juice, and beer. 3. Cover and cook for 8 hours. 4. Once cooking has finished, and while it’s still in the slow cooker, shred the meat using two forks. 5. Cover a baking rack with aluminum foil. Place the shredded meat on the foil, add a little sauce from the slow cooker, and place the rack under the oven’s broiler. 6. Broil until the edges of the meat start to brown. Serve with salsa, tortillas, guacamole, cilantro or, as I do, with tortillas, sweet mustard, and lingonberries.

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From tree to table Meet Alison Carroll, who lives in the beautiful Joshua Tree desert. She and her husband Jay started and run Wonder Valley Olive Oil and make a spicy, rich, beautifully colored EVOO. We met with Alison in her kitchen to talk about food, desert life, and how the olive oil gets made. 
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Sweet Paul: Most people don't wake up one morning thinking, “I’m going to start my own olive oil brand.” How did Wonder Valley come about? Alison Carroll: Prior to starting Wonder, I was the marketing director for the California Olive Oil Council in Berkeley. My role was to act as an industry advocate for the over 400 producers in the state and to oversee a professional taste panel to certify olive oil as extra-virgin grade (or not). It was an immersive, incredible experience in this niche and growing world of domestic olive oil production, and it led us to start our own. 
 SP: What goes into producing an olive oil? AC: There is the maintenance of the trees; heavy pruning so the trees produce new shoots and bear fruit; and (organic) fruit fly prevention. But the trees in general are incredibly hearty. For our trees, located in Northern California’s Lake County, we practice dry farming, meaning no water is added, only what mother nature provides from rain and the fog that rolls off Clear Lake alongside of the grove.

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Most of the defects, the things that occur during production that disqualify an oil from being extra-virgin grade or not, happen during the milling process. The equipment needs to be properly clean and at an appropriate temperature; the fruit needs to be handled with extreme care; and the fruit needs to be milled within a few hours of picking or the olives will begin to internally ferment and lead to a lousy olive oil. For Wonder Valley Olive Oil, our harvest looks a bit like this: Around early November (depending on the year), the fruit begins to ripen and the green olives begin to blush with purple hues. At this point, we like to harvest while the fruit is underripe. Our crew uses mechanized rakes to expertly shake loose the fruit from the tops of the trees and collect in nets below. The fruit is placed in crates and processed that day at the mill by our master certified miller. The fruit is processed through a hammer mill (modern milling equipment), then through a malaxer to separate the olive flesh from the liquids. Then a centrifuge separates the vegetal water from the oil, and finally it is racked to remove sediment. We are able to get our oil to our customer within 10 days from picking the fruit off the trees at the start of the season. 
 SP: The Wonder Valley oil is a bit spicy. How do you get it like that? Is it a brand of olives? AC: That flavor comes from two things: the varietals of olive and how underripe we pick. Ours is a blend of five different Tuscan olive varietals, which have a bit more intensity and robustness than other types. But mainly it is because we are picking our fruit so green, which does three things: 1. Intensifies the flavor 2. Gives more polyphenols (antioxidants) 3. Makes for a longer shelf life. For taste, that greenness gives us this herbaceous, 14 SWEETPAULMAG.COM SUMMER 2019

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peppery, grassiness that makes our oil pop when using it in a kitchen, especially against softer flavors like creamy cheese, citrus in salads, avocados, or against bread and pasta. It fortifies pestos and marinades and sauces to give a bit more of a kick. That spiciness is also an indicator of a high concentration of polyphenols, which are the free radical-fighting antioxidants associated with it, and what make extra-virgin olive oil such a superfood. These polyphenols, along with our matte black bottle, give our olive oil a bit of a longer shelf life than the average olive oil before it begins to fade. Letting the fruit fully ripen yields a very soft, buttery olive oil. It is also a bit easier to harvest, since the fruit falls off the tree and has a higher oil content at that stage. But it’s worth the extra labor for us. 
 SP: What’s your favorite way to use your oil? AC: We have a common snack around our house: a half an avocado, a drizzle of olive oil, a pinch of salt and a spoon. It’s such brain fuel with all these healthy fats and takes seconds to put together. I also like to grill a few pieces of bread, rub a super fresh tomato into the crust of the bread, salt, olive oil. So good! I have a little herb garden I’m growing so all of the soft herbs like dill, cilantro, parsley chopped up with capers, lemon zest, olive oil is absolute perfection over a grilled piece of meat or fish. Also, we just take it as a shot in the morning and night by itself for all those delicious health benefits. 
 SP: Your home is so inspiring. How did you find it? Did you have to do a lot of work on it? AC: Jay and I bought our home almost four years ago. We had been trying to buy a home in Joshua Tree for a couple years, but it can be pretty competitive out here. Our good friends, Steve and Glen, tipped us off to a boarded-up

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Wonder Valley Salad SERVES 4


 DRESSING

juice of 1 lemon 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 1 clove of garlic, grated pinch of salt 1 ⁄3 cup Wonder Valley extra-virgin olive oil approx. 1⁄3 cup pecorino cheese, grated freshly ground pepper SALAD

2 cups baby kale and spring lettuce mix 1 small head of radicchio, thinly sliced ½ cup snap peas, trimmed and sliced on a diagonal 2 avocados, sliced 2 tablespoons fresh dill, chopped fresh pepper to taste

house down the road from them, the worst house in the best neighborhood. We wrote a letter to the owners and a few months later it was ours. We’ve spent the better part two years rehabbing and building to create this home, all tailored around our interests and how we spend our time. So there’s a really functional kitchen both indoors and a wood-burning kitchen outside, since we cook all the time here. And this time of year, the outdoor bathhouse is my favorite edition. 
 SP: Why Joshua Tree? AC: The access to nature, the open landscape that gives so much physical and mental space for creativity and building and dreaming big. The low 16 SWEETPAULMAG.COM SUMMER 2019

overhead, which allows us to work for ourselves, how and when we want to. The incredible and inspiring creative community that continues to grow out here. The pace of a rural community. The easy access to L.A. that makes it logistically possible for a lot of projects and production. And we have a national park in our backyard! 
 SP: What’s next for Wonder Valley? AC: Developing the olive oil-based, unisex skin care collection and a few new products. Redesign and newness coming to our Oil Shop retail space in downtown Joshua Tree. It’s been a year of planning and designing, and I can’t wait to share what we’ve been cooking up with the world.



 For the dressing: 1. In a small mixing bowl, combine the lemon juice, vinegar, garlic, and salt. Allow to macerate for a few minutes. 2. Slowly drizzle the olive oil in the bowl, whisking constantly. 3. Stir in the grated cheese and freshly ground pepper. Taste and adjust if needed. 
 For the salad: 1. In a large salad bowl, mix the greens and radicchio together with the snap peas. 2. Add the dressing to the greens, and gently toss with your hands to combine. 3. Add avocado slices and dill. 4. Finish with cracked pepper and extra grating of cheese over the top.

Alison & Jay Carroll welcometowondervalley.com Wonder Valley Oil Shop 61943 Twentynine Palms Hwy. Joshua Tree, CA 92252

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A MARKETPLACE OF INDEPENDENT ARTISTS

“Calm Forest No.18” by Cait Courneya, Minneapolis, MN. “Tropical Leaves” by Alicia Abla, Overland Park, KS “Fortress I” by Kamala Nahas, Ventura, CA. ©Minted LLC, 2019

Always fresh.

Every minute of every day, all around the world, artists are creating the next potential Minted pieces. And when they’re done, tastemakers like you vote to decide which will become a reality. That’s why everything at Minted is of-the-moment, unique, and completely exclusive. minted.com

Photo and styling credit: Passionshake.com


Bookmarked Books we're loving this spring

* Heirloom Kitchen by Anna Francese Gass: This gorgeous book

celebrates the culinary traditions of strong, empowering immigrant women and the remarkable diversity that is American food. * Drag by Frank DeCaro: Happy LGBTQ Pride season! Our friend Frank’s new book celebrates the fabulous current and historical influence of drag, and its talented and inspiring performers. * Family by Hetty McKinnon: This beautifully illustrated vegetarian cookbook features modern, easy, and healthy recipes for a new generation of families. * Salt & Straw Ice Cream by Tyler Malek & JJ Goode: Innovative ice cream recipes with flavors like Sea Salt with Caramel Ribbons, Roasted Strawberry and Toasted White Chocolate, and Buttered Mashed Potatoes and Gravy!? * The Midcentury Kitchen by Sarah Archer: An illustrated

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pop history of the American kitchen from aqua to avocado and Westinghouse to Wonder Bread! * Pok Pok Noodles by Andy Ricker with JJ Goode: The definitive guide to the most delicious and time-honored noodle dishes of Thailand with recipes anyone can make at home. * Botanical Baking by Juliet Sear: Use edible flowers and herbs to decorate your cakes and bakes with this impossibly beautiful book as your guide. * Batch Cocktails by Maggie Hoffman: A hip, accessible guide to batch cocktail-making for entertaining, that can be made ahead of time so that hosts and hostesses have one less thing to worry about as the doorbell rings. * Simple & Classic by Jane Hornby: The beauty of Hornby’s recipes is how easy they are to perfect—with detailed step-by-step shots and stunning images of the finished dishes.

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TO MARKET, TO MARKET Fresh food and finds

Now that it’s BBQ season, I love to dig deep into books that will up my game—and there is nothing like a good grilled steak. So I'm extremely excited about Franklin Steak: Dry-Aged. Live-Fired. Pure Beef from the reigning king of brisket, Aaron Franklin. This book is a guide to cooking the perfect steak, from buying the best meat to applying the right seasoning to finding or building the ideal cooking vessel. It’s a great book for any food lover.

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Reprinted with permission from Franklin Steak by Aaron Franklin & Jordan Mackay, copyright © 2019. Photographs by Wyatt McSpadden. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Penguin Random House, Inc.

Fire up!


Scraps of beauty Melanie Abrantes’ vase collection MARAIS, made of found and thrifted glass, leftover cork, and wood from her other projects, is just stunning. Each piece is a unique and original work of art from Abrantes’ exploration of sustainability, material, and form. MelanieAbrantes.shop

4 simple ways to spice up your BBQ this summer BEEF Mix a thick sauce of parsley, mint, garlic, lemon zest, salt, and pepper. Smear all over the beef, and place on the grill.

WANT NOW!

Loving simplicity The husband and wife team of Brad Lail and Jennifer Bowskill from Lail Design in Woodstock, New York, make clean, modern ceramics that speak to my Nordic roots. Simple shapes and beautiful colors are their specialty. All their pieces are made by hand and fired in a kiln Brad made himself. LailDesign.net

FISH Whip up a marinade of olive oil, grated lemon zest, lemon juice, salt, pepper, and lots of dill.

CHICKEN Create a marinade of Greek yogurt, garlic, salt, thyme, and chili. Marinate for 6 hours before you place on the grill.

ON TREND

Pink Himalayan salt VEGETABLES Make a rub of harissa and oil, smear it all over the vegetables, and place on the grill.

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This salt is not only beautiful, but it tastes really good and contains minerals not found in regular table salt. I prefer to buy the coarse variety and grind it tableside in a salt mill. SWEETPAULMAG.COM 21


healthy appetite On my plate this season

Healthy summer fare Cool off from the summer heat with Sweet Paul’s light and tasty treats fit for any BBQ, picnic—or just hanging on the beach Food + Styling + Photography by Paul Lowe

Roasted Carrot Salad with Dill and Feta This salad can be served warm or cold and makes a great “take-away” dish. Or try it on the side of BBQ chicken or a steak.

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Summer Rolls The great thing about summer rolls is that you can fill them with just about anything— vegetables, leftover meat, chicken or fish—even fruit. FOLLOW US @SWEETPAULMAGAZINE

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Cold Squash Ramen Soup Chilled soup is a refreshing summer lunch. I made mine vegetarian, but you can add eggs, chicken, or shrimp if you like.

2 scallions, thinly sliced 1 carrot, peeled and julienned 1/2 cucumber, julienned 1/2 red chili, thinly sliced fresh mint

Cold Squash Ramen Soup SERVES 2

1 can coconut milk 1 tablespoon red curry paste, or to taste 2 cups chicken or vegetable stock juice from 1/2 lime 1 1-inch piece of peeled ginger 2 garlic cloves, sliced soy sauce to taste 2 small summer squash, thinly spiraled 24 SWEETPAULMAG.COM SUMMER 2019

1. In a large pot, bring to a boil the coconut milk, curry paste, stock, lime juice, ginger, and garlic. 2. Reduce heat to medium and simmer for 5 minutes. Taste and season with soy sauce. 3. Strain broth into two heatproof bowls and set aside cool. 4. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil, and blanch the squash for 20 seconds. Then place immediately in an ice bath. 5. Add squash, scallions, carrots, cucumber, and chili to cold broth. Garnish with mint and serve.

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HEALTHY APPETITE HEALTHY APPETITE

Chia Coconut Pudding with Pineapple SERVES 4

1 can coconut milk 1/4 cup chia seeds 3/4 cup rolled oats 2 cups pineapple chunks 1/4 cup slivered almonds, toasted honey or agave to taste fresh mint 1. In a large mixing bowl, stir together, coconut milk, chia seeds, and oats. 2. Cover and chill in the fridge for 4 hours. 3. Spoon pudding into bowls. Top with pineapple, almonds, and mint. 4. Finish with a drizzle of honey or agave.

Summer Rolls SERVES 4

8 spring roll wrappers edible flowers leafy greens 1 carrot, peeled and julienned 1/2 cucumber, julienned 2 scallions, julienned 1 cup roasted chicken, shredded DIPPING SAUCE

4 tablespoons soy sauce 2 tablespoons sesame oil 2 tablespoons chili sauce 2 tablespoons lime juice 1/2 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds 1. Place the wrappers, one at a time, in a shallow bowl of hot water for about 15 seconds. 2. Place soaked wrappers on a wet cutting board or kitchen mat. Your surface needs to be wet to keep the wrapper from sticking to the surface.

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Chia Coconut Pudding with Pineapple This dessert is so easy and, with no cooking involved, you won’t mind whipping it up on a warm day.

3. Start filling the wrappers by placing the flowers in the center. Then layer the rest of the ingredients one at a time. 4. Fold in the sides, roll to close, and place on a platter. Repeat for each wrapper. 5. In a small mixing bowl, whisk together all the ingredients for the dipping sauce, and serve with the rolls.

Roasted Carrot Salad with Dill and Feta SERVES 4

1/4 cup red wine vinegar 1/2 cup water 3 shallots, peeled and sliced 6 medium carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces

8 small sweet peppers, chopped 3 tablespoons olive oil salt and pepper 1 cup crumbled feta cheese fresh dill 1. Preheat oven to 380ÂşF. 2. Bring vinegar and water to a boil. 3. Place the shallots in a bowl. Pour the hot liquid over the shallots. Let sit until the dish is ready to serve. 4. Place carrots and peppers in a baking dish, and toss with oil, salt, and pepper. 5. Bake until done, about 20 to 25 minutes. 6. Place the carrots and peppers on plates. Top with feta cheese, shallots, and dill. Drizzle with a little oil and serve. SWEETPAULMAG.COM 25


noritakechina.com


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Unplugging to reconnect Sweet Paul talks with Brady Smith and Tiffani Thiessen about their fun and insightful new children’s book, You’re Missing It! Sweet Paul: How did the idea for this book come about? Tiffani Thiessen: I was in the kitchen making dinner, and Brady was being awesome and pushing Holt on the swing. But I noticed he was on his phone. It’s a conversation we have been having about unplugging. So I opened the kitchen and yelled “You’re missing it!” Brady knew what I was talking about, of course, and was immediately inspired by the idea and started from there. SP: How was working together? TT: We are lucky that we work in similar worlds and often get to collaborate, but this one was mostly Brady. I joke in saying, if I knew yelling and nagging would produce such amazing ideas and work, I would do it more often. I am so proud of Brady and his beautiful artwork. You don’t see many children’s books these days done completely by hand. A lot of it is done by computer. So we are especially proud of this because of the time and dedication he put into making it.

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SP: I feel we are losing some social skills with all these phones. We don't really talk as much as we used to. Brady Smith: I would completely agree, and that is a big reason why we wrote this book. It is a reminder for all of us to unplug and be present in the moment. Sit around the table, and really talk about your day. SP: Any phone rules in your home? TT: No devices at the table of course. That rule has been in place in our home since day one really. And we limit our use to a small amount, even during the week, and even more on weekends. We are lucky that Brady and I have kids that enjoy being outside more than anything. I guess

they get it from us. We also know, as the kids get older, we think it is even more important for them to see us detached, you know? Lead by example, we both were taught, and we couldn’t agree more. SP: This book is so great, so clearly, it needs to be a series. What's the next one? BS: Ha! We have heard this a lot. Maybe one about the parents reminding the kids? Yes, ideas are in the works, I promise! Reprinted with permission from You’re Missing It! by Brady Smith and Tiffani Thiessen, Illustrated by Brady Smith, copyright © 2019. Published by Nancy Paulsen Books, a division of Penguin Random House, Inc.

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put a lid on it! The essential guide to canning and preserving

For love of friends and persimmons Time is the secret ingredient when a thoughtful gift becomes the perfect recipe Food + Styling by Michaela Hayes Photography by Paul Lowe

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My relationship with

Dried Persimmons

persimmons was not love at first bite. I didn’t grow up around persimmons and, aside from the tiny, wild variety I sometimes found in New York City, I didn’t live where they grow locally most of my adult life. When my dear friend and now farm partner Lorrie sent us some dried persimmons from the USCS Center for Agroecology and Sustainable Food Systems (CASFS for short), I was filled with gratitude. The box overflowed with stunningly beautiful persimmon coins — golden suns, each with a starburst in the middle. Sadly, I was also at a bit of a loss for what to do with them. They languished in our cabinet for a while, and I would periodically take one out to try and think about what they might become. Lorrie had put so much love into making them and sending them to us. I felt determined to honor that energy and find a way to both let them shine — and to make myself like them. Months after Lorrie came home from CASFS, we had a big taco party to celebrate her birthday. I made a simple sauce of rehydrated persimmons and chilies in adobo, which I mixed with shredded chicken. It was a perfect marriage: sweet, tangy persimmons balancing earthy, smoky chilies. Lorrie was surprised and delighted at this new way of enjoying the persimmons. And I finally found a way that I adore eating them.

MAKES 4 OUNCES

4 persimmons 1. Cut persimmons into ¼-inchthick disks. 2. Lay flat in a dehydrator, and dry until pieces are no longer tacky to the touch, but still flexible. 3. Store in an airtight container for up to 1 year.

Persimmon Chipotle BBQ Sauce YIELDS 2 CUPS

4 ounces dried persimmons (about 16 disks) 1 cup boiling water 1 7-ounce can chipotle peppers in adobo sauce 2 tablespoons maple syrup (optional) 1. In a heat-safe bowl, cover dried persimmons with boiling water. Let sit for 10 minutes to rehydrate. 2. In food processor or blender, blend together chilies with the adobo sauce. Add in the rehydrated persimmons and water (you can add less or more water to adjust the consistency). 3. Add in the maple syrup, if desired, for a little more sweetness, and blend well, until smooth. 4. Enjoy that sweet, smoky flavor!

Note: Fully ripe persimmons are soft and a bit wrinkly. To dry persimmons, you want firm, somewhat underripe fruit

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woof Dogs have favorite things too!

5 tricks to keep your dog cool this summer Your pups will be cool and refreshed when the hot weather hits with these quick tips and treats Text + Food + Photography by Paul Lowe

1. Morning and evening walks. If your dog needs long walks, take them out early in the morning and late at night when the air is cooler and less humid. The hot, midday pavement can burn and blister a dog’s paws too. 2. Lots of water. Keep water handy at all times. Bring a bottle and bowl for quick drinks when out walking. Dogs, especially small ones, get dehydrated so much faster than we do. Try putting a few ice cubes in the water. My dogs love licking ice cubes on a warm day. 3. Made in the shade. Walk your dog on the shady side of the street, and find a shady spot rest breaks. And off course, NEVER LEAVE YOUR DOG IN A CAR IN SUMMER — OR EVER. JUST DON’T. 4. Cool house. Keep your house on the cool side, especially when they are home alone. If you don’t have air conditioner, open a window and put on a fan. 5. Frozen treat. Make our frozen banana and yogurt treat. Made in an ice cube tray, you can just pop one out when it’s treat time. A tip I learned the hard way: Let your dog eat frozen treats like this outside to save yourself a bit of a mess.

Frozen Banana and Yogurt Treat MAKES 12 TREATS

1 cup Greek yogurt 1 ripe banana 2 tablespoons honey 1 cup rolled oats 1 tablespoon chia seeds 1. Place yogurt and banana in a bowl, and using a fork, mash the banana into the yogurt. 2. Add honey and mix well. 3. Stir in oats and chia seeds. 4. Fill an ice cube mold with the mixture and freeze until solid, about 12 hours.

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FETCH Humane Society of the United States staff, volunteers, and Emergency Placement Partners assist with approximately 120 dogs and cats that arrived on a plane at the Manassas Regional Airport from shelters in Texas and Oklahoma on Thursday, October 25, 2018 in Manassas, Virginia.

Elsie Elephant Chew Toy, $35, max-bone.com

SWEET PAWS Text by Dorie Herman

AS SOMEONE who sits on the boards of two organizations that

Custom T and bandana made by woofmodels.com, prices starts at $224 for a portrait and then these other products can be added

HUMANE SOCIETY IMAGE BY KEVIN WOLF/AP IMAGES FOR HSUS

help rescues and shelters find homes for their animals, I have learned that there are many organizations doing great work out there. Unfortunately, it can be difficult to distinguish between the real deal and the organizations that may not match up with your ethics on rescue. Below, I’ve assembled a few tips to help you navigate the process. 1. Use your senses. Do the animals in the facility and on the website look well cared for, clean, and healthy? Are there so many animals that they are packed on top of each other? It is important that the rescue/shelter is attending to the needs of all animals in their care. 2. Check references. Reach out to others who have adopted from the organization. Read Google and Yelp reviews. 3. Confirm transparency. Is the mission statement clear and easy to find? Do the people take as much time as needed to answer your questions, and provide clear and concise answers? Do they have a clearly stated fee structure? If you are feeling rushed, pressured, or asked to pay fees based on the breed, these can be signs the shelter or rescue may have something to hide (i.e., buying puppies at high prices from auctions or “dog flipping”).

Organic Paw Soother to help with dry and cracked paws, $17.95, naturaldogcompany.com

“We’ve worked with hundreds of animal welfare organizations over the years. Organizations who support their foster volunteers, and have transparent adoption and foster procedures are what we look for when partnering,” says Sarah Brasky, founder and executive director of Foster Dogs Inc. And if an organization is setting off red flags? “Report it to your local animal control and law enforcement immediately if there are animals in danger,” instructs Kim Alboum, director of shelter outreach and policy engagement for the Humane Society of the United States. For more information on this topic, visit TheShelterPetProject.org.

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY NATALIE CHITWOOD

summer 2019

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Playing with Spend an evening around the bonfire with Paper to Table’s Sam Pogue and Sweet Paul for a cookout you won’t forget


Photography by Natalie Chitwood + Food by Alejandro Cantagallo, Jocelyn Guest and Erika Nakamura, Jonah Miller, Hillary Sterling, and paper to table’s bonfire, a chef’s cookout

Food & Fire


Sweet Paul: Tell me about Bonfire. What is it? Sam Pogue: Paper to Table’s Bonfire, A Chef’s Cookout is a series of live-fire cooking events. We invite an intimate group of guests to lesser-known farms or provincial hidden gems to do the two things their mothers warned them not to do: play with fire and play with their food. Bonfire Cookout is an experience driven by curiosity. We gather chefs, farmers, makers, and purveyors who are as entranced by open-fire cooking as we are. We spend the afternoon into early evening outdoors showing our guests different cooking techniques that they can try in their own backyards. The cookouts generally begin with a demonstration and a farm tour to give our guests a sense of place and sourcing. The demos usually have some element of a hands-on experience, whether 40 SWEET PAUL MAGAZINE SUMMER 2019

grating tomatoes for pan con tomate or grilling and charring peaches. It’s a great way to set the guests up for what’s to come. Once the guests have explored and learned a bit about live-fire cooking, we sit down to an informal supper of what the chefs and crew have spent the day preparing. I don’t know if it’s because the supper feels so earned, having come from the fire we built, but it’s one of the most rewarding experiences. And because it’s a fairly unstructured event, guests have a chance to spend time with the chefs, mixologists, and farmers in a way that I haven’t experienced at a lot of events. While our guests leave with tips for cooking creatively outdoors (and indoors), the cookouts also feel a little like camp. Perhaps in part because the only thing we really take seriously is making everyone feel welcome.

Sweet Paul: How did it come about? Sam Pogue: Growing up between Manhattan and Westchester, I’m not the most obvious live-fire cooking proponent. But when I look back at the path that got me here, it somehow just adds up. My father and stepmother lived for a few years outside of Vail, Colorado, and every weekend there wasn’t snow on the ground (and some when there was), we’d go camping in the mountains. My stepmother is a great chef, and my dad built a pantry that fit in the back of the SUV, complete with my grandmother’s china, an array of seasonings, and proper glassware. We’d drive two hours past the last person we saw, and set up camp. Even though we were in the mountains camping, dinner was still a culinary experience, and that has stuck with me over the years.

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Live-Fire Fabada Asturiana

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Grilled Peppers and Halloumi

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Grilled Peppers and Halloumi by paper to table’s bonfire, a chef’s cookout with Alejandro Cantagallo SERVES 6 TO 8

2 bell peppers, whole 1 pound halloumi cheese, cut in ½-inch slices 
 Maldon salt, flakes 
 olive oil, to taste
 fresh lemon juice, to taste
 2 pita bread, sliced 1. You can either work with 2 grills, or 1 large grill grate and create 2 kinds of fires under it by moving coals around: high heat with all white coals and medium heat with a mix of black and white coals. 2. Add the peppers to the grill over the high-heat source, turning as they char completely. You want to see black, not the color of the peppers. Try to avoid breaking the skin as you turn. Use long tongs, so you’re a safe distance from the fire. 3. Once peppers are completely charred, place in an airtight container so they steam, 8 to 10 minutes. 4. Remove from the container, and gently pull off the charred skins and remove the seeds and stems with your hands. Slice the remaining pepper into strips, season with salt, and a healthy dose of olive oil. Set aside. 5. On the grill grate over medium heat, place the halloumi slices and watch carefully. You want to see grill marks but not to overcook them. Once they are lightly charred, remove from heat, place on your serving platter, top with lemon juice, and olive oil to taste. Add the cooked peppers to the platter, and serve with warmed pita slices.

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When I joined the team at Union Square Hospitality Group, I worked on events like the Big Apple Barbecue Block Party and reconnected to my love of open-fire cooking. I was indoctrinated into the world of heritage cooking by the families who have been cooking real pit barbecue for decades. And the process itself was almost as mesmerizing as the fires. There is no speeding that up— it’s ready when it's ready. For New Yorkers, it’s a novelty, and it became a style of cooking that my friends and I gravitated to. When I began working for an event production company out of Austin, Texas, producing their culinary events, I was back in a world of immense creativity and

showmanship. And again, the guests were most drawn to the live-fire cooking demonstrations. The idea behind Paper to Table’s Bonfire, A Chef’s Cookout was sparked during those experiences—from wanting to create something where guests could get close enough to the fire to learn, help cook, and to be a part of the process in a way that wouldn’t intimidate a home cook or casual event attendee. Sweet Paul: What can I expect when attending one of the cookouts? Sam Pogue: Each cookout is different. That’s the nature of live-fire cooking. The constants are finding new, less-traveled parks, farms, or SWEETPAULMAG.COM 43


hilltops and getting to explore nature; meeting the chefs behind some of the most interesting and diverse restaurants (mostly in New York City and surrounding areas); and spending an afternoon watching them cook and asking questions along the way. Our guests always have a chance to be part of the cooking. As is my hope with every event, people will learn or taste something new and meet other curious souls. I’ve noticed that, after people attend a cookout, they are hooked and, year after year, we’ve started to see the same familiar faces popping up. Again, it feels a little like camp! Sweet Paul: How do you find the chefs you work with? Sam Pogue: I am fortunate to have amassed a great network of chefs in my professional and personal travels, and I often look to them for Bonfire Cookout collaborations. Though there are times I’ve reached out to chefs and farmers through social media. For example, Jonah Miller, Chris Bradley, and Bonfire Cookout’s culinary production lead Alejandro Cantagallo, were all chefs who I worked with at USHG. Emily Elsen and Stephen Yen were guests at the very first Bonfire Cookout in 2016 at Satur Farms on the North Fork [of Long Island, New York], and have remained connected to the event over the years in various ways. Erika Nakamura, Jocelyn Guest, Jaymee Sire, and Allison Kave are chefs and culinary personalities who I met working on other projects, and I thought they would enjoy collaborating on the cookouts. I was introduced to Gretchen and Brigitte Maxwell of Maxwell Shellfish, Frank Salustri from Dock to Dish, and Brookby Farm through Instagram. 44 SWEET PAUL MAGAZINE SUMMER 2019

It’s really exciting bringing those relationships into the real world to connect on a personal level around a fire. Since there is no back of house, I recognize this event is not for everyone. Cooking over open fire is a test of patience and attentiveness; throw in guests asking you questions while you cook, and, in some cases, helping with your dish, and it can be overwhelming. And these chefs really had fun with it, which enriches the experience for everyone. I love seeing the chefs who relish the experience. Hillary Sterling has cooked with us for the past two years, and it doesn’t matter how long the cookout is, or how hot the day, you can’t pull her away from her fire pit. Sweet Paul: The locations all look stunning. How important are they to each event? Sam Pogue: Each year’s planning begins with the location—it is key. We go where we’re invited, and it’s always fun exploring locations early in the year. Then we learn more about the partners and farm neighbors, and sometimes it’s just me driving around country roads and reading farm signs. Last year’s venue was Crown Maple in the Harlem River Valley, New York, which came about because the CEO attended the 2017 cookout up in the Catskills, and invited me to tour their farm. As you can imagine, a maple farm on 800 acres with lookouts of New York, New Jersey, and Connecticut, wasn’t a hard sell. This year I’m exploring locations in Delaware County, Sullivan County, and again in the Harlem River Valley. I used to think we had to go far from the city to give people a remarkable outdoor experience, and yet one

of my favorite take-aways over the years has been that New York is an incredibly diverse state and there is a ton of land to explore. Sweet Paul: What’s your favorite thing doing these events? Sam Pogue: I love too much about the cookouts to pick just one thing! That said, it all starts with exploring the outdoors. Living in New York City, I need it for my soul, and when I find someplace really special, I want to share it with our cookout community. I love the people who make the cookouts happen; while the roster of live-fire cooks, firetenders, and bonfire ninjas change from year to year, we are a family forged in fire. Each one of us has a personal, and, to be honest, a visceral connection to bonfires and open-fire cooking. These cookouts are a great excuse to get together a few times a year and invite others to join us around a fire to explore things about cooking and the outdoors that we are curious about. Open-fire cooking isn’t easy; it’s exhausting and you’re convinced you’ll never get the smell of smoke out of your hair and clothes. But it’s where most of us feel at home and alive. And the people who attend the cookouts are a huge part of what makes them so special. They come with open minds and hearts and I love seeing the change that comes over each and every attendee from the time they arrive until they leave the farm. It’s like seeing someone after a really great yoga class. Your shoulders fall away from your ears, your mind eases a bit, your smile widens, you’ve learned a little something about yourself, and you feel you’re part of a community.

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Live-Fire Rack of Lamb

Cast-Iron Corn Focaccia with Smoked Maple Paprika Butter

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Live-Fire Rack of Lamb by Jocelyn Guest and Erika Nakamura SERVES 3 TO 4

⁄3 cup olive oil 5 garlic cloves, finely grated 4 sprigs thyme, picked 2 sprigs rosemary, picked 1 cup full-fat Greek yogurt 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar kosher salt pepper 1 rack of lamb lemon wedges Maldon salt

7. Rest the rack of lamb for 10 to 20 minutes. Slice into chops and drizzle with reserved oil, a squeeze of lemon, and Maldon salt.

1

1. In a small saucepan over medium heat on a stove, combine oil, garlic, and picked herbs. Gently infuse oil for 15 minutes. Remove from heat and cool completely. Reserve 2 tablespoons of oil. 2. Once cool, mix in yogurt and vinegar. Season with salt and pepper to taste. 3. Rub rack of lamb with marinade and refrigerate from 8 hours up to overnight. 4. When you’re ready to fire up the grill, remove the lamb from the refrigerator and bring to room temperature, 1 to 2 hours. Meanwhile get a grill screaming hot. Be patient. Build your fire, and when the wood and charcoal are white and it’s too hot to hold your hand over, it’s ready to go. Depending on weather conditions and the size of your fire, this can take from 45 minutes to over an hour. 5. When the lamb is tempered and the grill is hot, scrape the excess yogurt off the lamb. Sear it fat side down until well charred. 6. Flip it bone side down on indirect heat—the edges of the fire will be cooler—to finish cooking. The bones act as a sort of roasting rack for the lamb. Cook until the internal temperature is 125ºF internally for medium-rare.

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Cast-Iron Corn Focaccia with Smoked Maple Paprika Butter by Hillary Sterling of Vic’s New York

Cooking note: The pan needs to be constantly rotated to keep the heat even, and flipping the focaccia will take some time to get used to, especially since the cast iron is heavy and hot. Be patient, and don’t worry if it breaks on your first try. It’s still delicious, so keep going with your cook.

SERVES ABOUT 30

21/2 ounces high-gluten flour 2 1/2 ounces salt 7 grams yeast 3 grams olive oil 2 cups water 2 cups raw corn 1. Mix ingredients together, and let rest overnight, covered in the fridge. 2. When ready to cook, remove from the fridge, and let stand for at least 1 hour at room temperature. 3. Over warm coals, slowly get a cast iron pan warm. Add 10 ounces of olive oil to the pan, and place the dough gently in the pan. The olive oil should seem excessive, coming up around the sides of the dough. During the cooking process, the focaccia will absorb the oil. 4. Make sure the pan is not over direct heat. Move the pan to the edges of the fire, where the wood and charcoal are a mix of white and black, and it’s easier to get close to. 5. Once the dough is crispy, about 10 minutes, though cooking time will depend on your fire and the weather, flip and gently press corn into the top of the dough. 6. After about 10 minutes, again, depending on your fire and weather, you should start to see the second side crisping up. 7. Remove from the heat, and while it cools in the pan, prepare Smoked Maple Paprika Butter.

Smoked Maple Paprika Butter 2 pounds 83%-butterfat butter 
 3 tablespoons Spanish smoked paprika
 1 tablespoon kosher salt
 1 tablespoon maple syrup
 (we used Crown Maple) 1 tablespoon ground chili flakes 
 1. Temper butter to soft and fold in seasoning. 2. Once focaccia is cool, cut into rectangular portions of your choice, and smother with the maple paprika butter.

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Live-Fire Roasted Chicken

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Charred Peaches with Handmade Ricotta Cheese

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Live-Fire Roasted Chicken by paper to table’s bonfire, a chef’s cookout with Alejandro Cantagallo This recipe keeps the chicken seasoning simple so you can really taste the smokiness of the fire and top with different salsas and chutneys. Once you get the hang of cooking the chicken, test out different seasonings and sauces. The options are endless. SERVES 2 TO 3

3 to 4 pound whole chicken, cleaned, skin on Old Bay seasoning fresh lemon juice 1. Trim the chicken of excess fat and remove giblets from the cavity. Optional: Reserve necks for grilling and the giblets for a sauce. 2. Truss chicken with butcher’s twine, leaving enough twine so the chicken can hang about 12 inches from the fire at either end. You’ll want to make sure the wings and legs are secure, and that there are loops at the ends of the twine to make turning and rehanging your bird easier as it cooks. 3. Once trussed, in a pan or dish that fits the whole bird, season liberally with Old Bay seasoning so you don’t see the color of the original skin. Refrigerate for 2 to 3 hours, or as long as it takes you to build your fire. You can also do this step the night before. 4. Build your fire to medium-high heat, a mix of black and white coals, and place your chicken umbrella (or similar roasting apparatus) over the fire. 5. Once your fire is ready, remove the chicken from the refrigeration and hang the bird from your rig atop the fire. We recommend you start with the breast up, since the dark meat will need longer to cook. This is a test of patience as you’ll need to watch your birds. 6. Once the bottom half of the bird is golden brown, flip the position so the other side is closer to the fire. This can take about 45 minutes per side 50 SWEET PAUL MAGAZINE SUMMER 2019

depending on the size and strength of your fire. Because this step relies on smoke to cook the bird, wind will also be a factor in your cook. 7A. Once all sides of your bird are golden brown, remove from heat and, either using touch or a meat thermometer, test its readiness. Internal temp should be 162ºF. 7B. Optional step if you want a slightly charred chicken: Before the skin is too golden brown and internal temperature reads about 140ºF, remove chicken from heat and butcher into large sections. Add a grill grate close to the fire at medium-high heat, and place the chicken pieces skin side down. Don’t move them until they are charred, but before the skin begins to render. You’ll notice the smoke when the fat hits the heat. Try to avoid this, because the skin will be VERY charred at this point. Final temperature for your meat should be the same as above, 162ºF. 8. Rest the chicken loosely covered, in foil or topped with another pan, for 10 to 15 minutes before cutting. Butcher your bird and plate. Finish with lemon juice.

Charred Peaches with Handmade Ricotta Cheese by paper to table’s bonfire, a chef’s cookout with Alejandro Cantagallo SERVES 6 TO 8

2 quarts, whole milk (we used Brookby Farm) 1 quart heavy cream
 1 tablespoon kosher salt ½ cup lemon juice or white vinegar
 
 2 liters mead (we used Salt Point) 1 cup maple sugar (we used Crown Maple) 12 peaches, ripe, cored, halved olive oil, to taste
 maple syrup to taste
 ground cinnamon, to taste
 fresh mint, to taste

1. Place a grill grate as low to the fire as possible over the part of your fire where the coals are white hot. In a Dutch oven or large casserole dish, add the milk, heavy cream, and salt, and bring to a boil. Cook time will depend on the strength of your fire, the weather, and your cooking vessel. 2. Line a large colander with 2 layers of cheesecloth and place over another pot or vessel to catch excess liquid. Once the milk and cream mixture starts to boil, remove the Dutch oven from the heat. Add the vinegar or lemon juice, and let the mixture sit until it curdles, about 30 minutes. 3. Once it curdles, pour the liquid into the lined colander and refrigerate the remaining curd until cool, at least 10 minutes and up to 30 minutes. The longer it strains, the thicker it will be. Ultimately, the ricotta left in the colander will be about half as much as the starting liquid. 4. In a large container that can be sealed, stir mead and sugar until dissolved. Add peaches to mixture, making sure they are partially or fully submerged. Seal container and refrigerate for 6 to 12 hours. Remove from refrigeration, strain peaches, but keep the liquid. 5. Lightly oil a very hot flat-top griddle (a chapa, for example) and place close to the white-hot coals. Place peaches flat side down to create an evenly charred surface. Once skin begins to peel up slightly from the edges, either move the chapa away from the heat, or shovel some of the hot coals away so the heat reduces. 6. Add the liquid you saved earlier, and flip the peaches to char the other side. Once the liquid is the consistency of syrup and the peaches are cooked to your liking, remove from heat and allow to cool. Cook time depends on the strength of your fire, the weather, the ripeness of the fruit, and your own taste. 7. Once the peaches have cooled and the ricotta has been fully strained, arrange the charred peaches on a

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serving dish. Top with the ricotta, and drizzle olive oil and maple syrup to taste, finishing with a few dashes of cinnamon and fresh mint. Enjoy!

Live-Fire Fabada Asturiana adapted for live-fire cooking by Jonah Miller of Huertas; original recipe appears in The New Spanish: Bites, Feasts and Drinks by Jonah Miller and Nate Adler (Kyle Books, 2018) SERVES 4 TO 6

2 cups dried fabe, emergo, corona or other large white bean 1 onion 1 carrot 1 head garlic ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon, olive oil 1 tablespoon sweet paprika 2 bay leaves 1 ham bone or smoked ham hock (optional) 2 links fresh Spanish chorizo 2 links precooked morcilla (blood sausage) (optional) 8 ounces slab bacon, whole 1 tablespoon aged sherry vinegar (we used PX) salt to taste 1. The night before preparing the fabada, place the dried beans in large bowl, cover with 5 cups of water and refrigerate. The next day, drain the beans, which will have doubled in size. 2. Build a fire and allow the wood to burn for an hour or so, until you can break it down and disperse the heat. Untreated lump charcoal is a great ingredient, alongside the wood of your choice, to help maintain a consistent heat over a long period of time. Place a swing set or umbrella over your fire to hang your sausages and bacon, so they smoke without direct heat. 3. Peel the onion, keeping the root end attached and cut the onion in half, top-to-bottom so that the root base keeps the halves intact. Wash the carrot and cut that in half the long

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way. Rinse the head of garlic, and cut the cloves in half, horizontally so that in remains intact. 4. Place the beans in a cast iron Dutch oven (or similar vessel), and add enough water to cover the beans by 4 to 6 inches. Add the half-cup of olive oil, paprika, onions, carrot, garlic, bay leaves, and ham bone (if using). 5. Nestle your Dutch oven next to the fire directly on the coal and ashes and under where you will hang the bacon and sausages so the pork fat can drip into the pot. Pile some white and black coals around the pot for a constant heat. 6. Bring the beans to a bare simmer, and cook for 1 to 3 hours. Cook time for beans varies widely, but cooking them slowly and gently helps ensure that they remain intact when they are tender enough to enjoy. 7. Once the beans are at a simmer, hang the sausages and bacon over the fire. The morcilla will need the least direct heat, since it’s precooked, and the bacon the most heat, because it’s the largest piece. You’ll need to

watch the fire and meats; if they aren’t cooking as well as you’d like, bring the meat closer to the heat by lowering the height of your swing set where the meat is hanging. Or, for a faster cook, add a grill grate close to the fire and cook the meat over direct heat. You will lose some of the fat that would have dripped into the Dutch oven, but your meat will have a nice crust. Just be sure that it doesn’t overcook. 8. Open fire cooking is a dance, so be attentive and have fun trying different fire pit settings. Just be careful and wear heat resistant gloves if it helps you. 9. When the meat is cooked through, remove from the grill and hold in a warm spot around the edge of the fire. 10. When the beans are tender and no longer chalky inside but the skins have not split, remove the beans from the heat, season to taste with salt (you’ll need a few tablespoons). To serve, slice the meats and either serve alongside the beans or mix the meat directly into the beans. SWEETPAULMAG.COM 51


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your garden

Wine Crate Garden

Drying Herbs

Not all of us are lucky enough to have a garden, or even a small space to grow anything. But don't despair, there are other ways to get herbs and plants in your life Presented by

Crafts + Food + Styling + Photography by Paul Lowe


Hanging Herb Pots

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Drying Herbs Drying your own herbs is so easy. Start by making small bundles of herbs and securing them with a rubber band. Don't use string, as the stems will shrink and might fall apart. Hang the herbs somewhere airy to dry. This will take about a week. Once dried you can put your herbs in a jar with a tight lid.

Wine Crate Garden Growing in wooden wine crates is a great little hack. They're big enough to hold a lot of plants and small enough to easily be moved around. The best way to get a crate is to go to your local wine store and ask nicely. SUPPLIES

plastic trash bags wooden crate pebbles soil plants moss 1. Cover the box on the inside with 2 layers of plastic bags, and cut them down to size. 2. Fill a 2- to 3-inch layer of pebbles on the bottom of the crate and add soil on top. 3. Plant your plants/herbs and top with moss. The moss will help the soil stay moist and it looks pretty.

Hanging Herb Pots This is a cute way to grow herbs and plants. Use pots that have a rim on top, that way the wire has somewhere to rest. Great for both indoors and outdoors. SUPPLIES

Growing in Eggs

pots metal wire cutters herbs

Eggs are a perfect way to grow seedlings. Place cracked egg shells back in the carton and fill with soil. Add your seeds, water them, and place in a sunny place. Then just wait. Once the plants are large enough, plant them in a bigger pot or plant outside.

1. Start by cutting a long piece of wire. 2. Twist the wire around the pot leaving enough wire to make a hoop. Take your excess wire and make a loop, and twist it in place on the other side. 3. Fill with herbs/plants and hang.

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Table Arrangement Having guests over and don’t have flowers for the table? Don't panic—use what you have! Fill your table with vegetables and herbs. They are as stunning as any flowers. Break off some cabbage leaves to create cool salt and pepper bowls.

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Salt Scrub with Lemon & Thyme This salt scrub works really well to remove stains or smells from your hands. It's also great to use for tired and dry feet.

2 cups coarse kosher salt grated zest from 2 lemons 1 tablespoon fresh or dried thyme 3 to 4 tablespoons almond oil 1. In a bowl mix salt, lemon zest, and thyme. 2. Add the oil a little at a time, and mix well. The mixture should be on the dry side. 3. Store in a bowl.

Herb Terrarium This clever centerpiece idea looks beautiful on the table when entertaining guests. Cut small snippets of herbs for flavor or garnish directly from the bowl. SUPPLIES

glass bowl pebbles soil plants small figurines 1. Start with a layer of pebbles, about 2 inches. 2. Fill 1â „3 of the bowl with soil. 3. Plant your herbs. 4. Add another thin layer of pebbles. 58 SWEET PAUL MAGAZINE SUMMER 2019

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Herb Oil Herb oils are a great way to season food. Use in dressings, over soups, or on pizza. They look pretty on the table to boot. First, combine your favorite washed and dried herbs and spices in separate clean bottles. I mixed thyme, lemon peel, bay leaf, and peppercorns in one, and rosemary, chili, and peppercorns in the other. Then, fill each bottle with olive oil. Close and wait a few days to use.

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Carrot Soup with Corn & Dill


Carrot Soup with Corn & Dill A sweet and tasty soup with a crunch from the corn. Kids loves the taste. SERVES 4

2 tablespoons olive oil 1 bunch carrots, peeled, chopped 1 large potato, peeled, cubed 1 yellow onion, peeled, chopped 5 cups vegetable or chicken stock salt and pepper 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 peeled carrot, thinly sliced kernels from 2 corn cobs 2 tablespoons dill, chopped 1. Heat the oil in a large soup pot and add carrots, potato, and onion. 2. Sauté until the onion goes soft. 3. Add stock and let soup simmer until the carrots and potatoes are soft. 4. Use an immersion blender or a food processor to purée the soup. 5. Season with salt and pepper and keep warm. 6. Heat the oil in a small sauté pan and add sliced carrots, corn, and dill. 7. Cook until tender; season with salt and pepper. 8. Serve the soup in bowl topped with the corn mixture.

Roasted Vegetables with Basil Oil

Roasted Vegetables with Basil Oil This is such a great dish. You can eat as is or with some added chicken or a piece of steak. The oil is great on salads or as a dip. SERVES 4 ROASTED VEGETABLES

1 small head cauliflower 2 carrots 8 baby eggplant 10 brussels sprouts 4 heads garlic 4 tablespoons olive oil salt and pepper FOLLOW US @SWEETPAULMAGAZINE

BASIL OIL

1 cup packed basil leaves ½ cup olive oil 2 tablespoons toasted pine nuts 2 cloves garlic salt 1. Preheat oven to 400°F. 2. Cut all the vegetables into pieces and place in a large roasting pan.

3. Cut the top off the garlic and add to the pan. 4. Drizzle with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. 5. Roast in oven until tender and golden. 6. Place all ingredients for the basil oil in a food processor and blend until smooth. 7. Serve the roasted vegetables with the basil oil. SWEETPAULMAG.COM 61


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Recipes by Shannon Mustipher + Photography by Noah Fecks

Meet Shannon Mustipher, your guide to sophisticated island-inspired spirits with a Tiki twist

PASSPORT TO


Sweet Paul:

Why Tiki cocktails? What’s the allure? Shannon Mustipher: It started with rum. When I became Beverage Director at Glady’s Caribbean in 2014, I became fascinated by the range of flavor profiles in the category, the history, all of it. I resisted doing Tiki at the bar for a good year. I’d done some research into it but didn’t know if it was a good fit for the bar: I was still working on winning our guests over to rum. After attending the first Tiki by the Sea (a trade seminar on the topic of Tiki history and cocktails), I realized that even among the best bartenders in New York City, there remained a lot to learn about the spirit and how to appreciate it. Finally, when I looked at the restaurant’s rum selection, I realized that, with the exception of one or two bars in New York City, at that time [2015], and Painkiller, later PKNY, which had been closed for some time, my bar had the best selection of rums to produce Tiki drinks according to their original recipes. And owing to the island and escapist vibe in the restaurant, Tiki seemed like a good fit. That and I finally felt free to indulge my personal interest in working with Tiki cocktails, fully confident at this point that it would go over well with our guests. 66 SWEET PAUL MAGAZINE SUMMER 2019

SP: How does one become an expert in rum? For many people, there’s dark and light rum. But there is so much in between. SM: This is one of the rare instances when drinking is the answer! Seriously, it’s not enough to read about it. As I mentioned earlier, the category is huge in its range of production methods, flavor profiles, etc. Rum and cane spirits are produced in over 90 countries, and the only thing tying it all together is the base material, sugar, or something derived from it: juice, molasses, sugar crystals, etc. The best way is to pair tasting rums with reading up on them at the same time: The information that you will learn about what kind of base material, distillation technique, aging methodology, and cultural attitudes around rum, and drinking in general, will help you understand how rums differ and why. I like David Broome’s Rum: The Manual, as the tasting notes take it a step further than most, by including pairings with basic mixers: Coca-Cola, coconut water, etc. Fred Minnick’s Rum Curious does a solid job of covering a mix of widely available and niche/

boutique rums, and Tristan Wiley’s Rum Revolution is as entertaining as it is informative, especially if you enjoy travel. The book has a chapter devoted to each rum-producing region in the Americas, with info on each area’s major distilleries, as well as brief tasting notes on their rums. If this were not enough, and this is a wonderful and important touch, the author brings culture into the picture, detailing for example, the Rum Shops of Barbados, small shacks where local gather to “lime” (drink rum) and play dominoes. SP: Infusing spirits sounds so complicated. Is it? SM: Not at all! In fact, it’s among the easiest ingredient to make and nearly impossible to botch. An infusion is what we term “passive process” behind the bar and in the kitchen. Once you add the desired ingredients to the liquid to infuse, it’s like steeping tea in hot water. The principle is to introduce flavor to a liquid. The only thing left to do is to let it sit the length of time called for—be it 2 to 18 hours, a month, what have you—and then strain away the ingredients used for the infusion. Apart from adding and removing the ingredients from the liquid, there’s nothing that you need to do to make an infusion. Sous vide works the same way, in a fraction of the time: Seal everything into plastic pouch, put it in the water bath, and, in an hour or two, you will have an infusion that would otherwise take a day or more to make. SP: What would be the perfect food to serve with a Tiki cocktail? SM: I’m a big fan of pupu platters: spring rolls, shrimp skewers, pork dumplings of some sort ... I don’t generally eat fried foods, but that, and anything spicy, is a good foil to the acidity in the juices and, in some cases, the sweetness in the cocktail, depending on the drink.

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Muertito Vivo In an effort to create a simplified spin on the Zombie, I sought out elements that could do double or triple duty in terms of supplying bitterness, as well as elements of citrus and spice. While allspice dram perfectly fills the bill on all counts, it is very dry. Without a juice other than lime to play against, it can exert too much influence on the cocktail, pushing it in an austere direction. Not very Tiki. Jägermeister, which is commonly thought of as a college-bar shot, is actually an amaro and becomes the unlikely star of the show here, providing savory cacao, crisp citrus, and bright spice notes. FOLLOW US @SWEETPAULMAGAZINE

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For more tantalizing Tiki cocktail recipes, check out Shannon's book Tiki: Modern Tropical Cocktails from Rizzoli, 2019.


SP: For us hobby bartenders at home, what are the 5 most important tools we need? SM: A good jigger. You want to be as accurate as you can when measuring. There are countless styles to choose from, so depending on your comfort level, I suggest seeking out a clear or plastic jigger with markings for 1/4 ounce, 1/2 ounce, etc. A set of thick-walled shaking tins. Three-piece shakers are fun, sure, but I prefer them for a specific range of drinks, like those served up, where getting the most chill is critical. Otherwise, while chilling a drink is important no matter what (as is introducing water, which dilutes and adds volume to the cocktail), for drinks served on ice, dilution will occur as you drink, offering a measure of “correction” that would not occur in a drink served [straight] up. A sturdy mixing glass. It is possible to mix a stirred drink, like a Manhattan or Martini, in a shaking tin, and the metal will chill the cocktail faster. But the benefit of glass is that you can better gauge visually how diluted your cocktail is, and thus know when to stop and pour the drink. As a bonus, you can show off your style with your choice of glass. A well-designed piece can add personality and elegance to your bar. Bar spoons. To go with your mixing glass, in addition to being a tool for mixing drinks, the spoon can serve a number of purposes: to pull a maraschino cherry out of its jar if you don’t have chef’s tweezers, to crack/ break cubes of ice into smaller pieces should you need more surface area to chill a stirred drink faster, or to just look badass depending on the tip, be it a skull, trident, owl, or any other

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number of designs put there. The bar spoon is another tool that shows your style. Have fun with it! Hawthorne strainer. Get one with a tight coil that fits comfortably on your hand. Mine are rather tiny, so as much as I like the Koriko line, it’s difficult for me to use them. My grip can’t quite contain them. Depending on style, a strainer can fit on a mixing glass, no need for a julep strainer, unless you plan to make a lot of Manhattans and stirred Martinis. SP: And for the booze: What are the 5 types we need to start rocking some serious Tiki cocktails? SM: Wooden pot still rum. Guyana is a behemoth in the world of traditional English-style rums, and at one point, it was a major supplier to the British Navy. Its longer aged expressions are prized for their body and complexity, which makes them ideal for Tiki. I reach for Hamilton 151 or 86 or Pusser’s Gunpowder.

nature: grassy, vegetal notes, delicate floral notes, punchy fruit, earth, and even gravel. While these are not utilized heavily in classic Tiki drinks due to their limited availability in the U.S. at the time, they make a wonderful addition for anyone seeking to add unexpected layers to a cocktail. Cachaça. Made from fresh cane juice, like rhum agricole, cachaça generally exhibits more body, depending on which one you choose. When I want a lot of ripe fruit on the nose, I go for an unaged cachaça, like Yaguara. For a crisp, more vegetal moment, Avua Unaged Still Strength’s potent vegetal notes, even used sparingly, goes a long way. Mezcal Espadin. Generally pegged as smoky, but as with agricole, mezcal can exhibit a range of flavors and thus appeals to a bartender’s more adventurous side.

Unaged high-ester Jamaica pot still rum. There is only one producer who can make this style: Hampden Estate. Their production methods have not changed in over 200 years, and among the most important is their fermentation period, which is up to 3 to 4 weeks. Most modern production is 24 hours or less. The result? A remarkably aromatic and flavorful rum. So much so that European merchant bottlers prized these rums as the critical component in their blends. These are best used with one or two other rums in a Tiki cocktail. Rhum agricole blanc. Made from fresh cane juice, agricoles can display a wonderful range of aromas and flavors that evolve unspoiled SWEETPAULMAG.COM 69


Tiger Lily The Tiger Lily is ideal for those moments when you are in a mood for a fresh, floral daytime or brunch cocktail. Yuzu is one of the freshest, clearest expressions of citrus in a liqueur that I have experienced and it brings a delightful combination of crisp, punchy citrus and floral notes, while the soft, mellow botanicals from the elderflower liqueur add a hint of honeyed sweetness. RECOMMENDED SPIRITS:

Campo de Encanto Pisco Marie Brizard Yuzu Liqueur Giffard Fleur de Sureau Sauvage 1½ ounces pisco ½ ounce yuzu liqueur ¹⁄8 ounce elderflower liqueur 1 ounce white grapefruit juice ½ ounce honey syrup 2 dashes Angostura bitters GARNISH:

pineapple spear orange twist edible flower 1. Combine all in a shaker with a small scoop of crushed ice. 2. Aerate with a stand mixer or wand blender for 10 to 15 seconds—the liquid should be slightly frothy. 3. Strain into a hurricane glass over pebbled ice and garnish with a pineapple spear, an orange twist, and an edible flower. Honey syrup also lends a creamy mouthfeel, with honey’s added floral and herbal notes. 1. Use the same 1:1 ratio for simple 70 SWEET PAUL MAGAZINE SUMMER 2019

syrup with any variety of honey— I like clover or buckwheat, but try your local favorite. 2. Add a generous pinch of sea salt to the water for salted honey syrup or an equal volume of thawed passion fruit puree for passion fruit–honey syrup. 3. Keep in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

Muertito Vivo RECOMMENDED SPIRITS:

Flor de Caña 7 Year Hamilton 151 Overproof Demerara Rum 1½ ounces extra-aged rum ½ ounce overproof Demerara rum ¾ ounce Jägermeister ¾ ounce Don’s Mix ¾ ounce fresh lime juice GARNISH:

cinnamon sticks edible flower 1. Combine all in a shaker with cubed ice. 2. Shake and strain into a skull mug or chilled double rocks glass over pebbled ice. 3. Garnish with 2 cinnamon sticks and an edible flower. Invented by the master at balancing sweet and sour, Don the Beachcomber himself, Don's Mix is a beloved Tiki ingredient for adding mellow sweetness and acidity to complex cocktails. 1. Follow the honey syrup recipe, with grapefruit juice in place of water. 2. Keep in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

Strangers in Paradise RECOMMENDED SPIRITS:

La Favorite Coeur de Canne Rhum Agricole Blanc Hamilton 86 Demerara Rum Yola 1971 Mezcal Giffard Ginger of the Indies 1 ounce rhum agricole blanc ½ ounce aged rum ½ ounce mezcal espadín ½ ounce ginger liqueur ¾ ounce macadamia syrup ¾ ounce fresh lime juice ¹⁄8 ounce Fernet Vallet GARNISH:

lime shell, scored mint sprig pineapple spears dehydrated pineapple wedge 1. Combine all but fernet in a shaker with cubed ice. 2. Shake and pour all contents into a skull or tall Tiki mug. 3. Top with pebbled ice and float fernet on top. 4. Garnish with a scored lime shell, fresh mint, 2 to 3 pineapple spears, and a dehydrated pineapple wedge. Reprinted from Tiki: Modern Tropical Cocktails, Rizzoli, 2019

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Strangers in Paradise While the prevailing perception of mezcal is that it is smoky, gravelly, and even rough, in fact, it can also, by turns, be floral, fruity, silky, smooth, and refreshing. This recipe blends a mezcal espadĂ­n with a heavy dark rum, taking a cue from the blending of a heavy and light rum in a Mai Tai. This version then takes an about-face from that original template, focusing on darker, savory flavors while pushing the citrus to the rear. FOLLOW US @SWEETPAULMAGAZINE

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WHEN PAUL MET

TRINA

Who needs sun when you are in the presence of Trina Turk, the reigning queen of Palm Springs style? Over lunch, I asked Trina a few questions about color, architecture, and Caesar salad.

Photography by Brandon Harman + Recipe by Trina Turk


want to wear, using better quality fabrications. I wish I could say I had the whole print/color/Palm Springs thing all planned out in advance, but I didn’t—it just evolved. SP: Where you always drawn to patterns and colors?

SPENDING THIS WINTER in Palm Springs, I had many goals, and one of them was meeting Trina Turk. To me, she is the queen of Palm Springs style, with her colorful, easy, and chic fashions and home goods. I was lucky enough to meet her at a party, and she is the sweetest person ever. Her Palm Springs house is famous for being one of the only Art Deco houses in the area, so I imagine how happy I was when I got an invite to see it for myself—and to taste her famous Caesar salad. 76 SWEET PAUL MAGAZINE SUMMER 2019

Sweet Paul: For me, the brand and the person Trina Turk is the embodiment of Palm Springs style. Colors, easy, patterns, fun. How did the brand Trina Turk happen? Trina Turk: I had worked as a designer for mostly junior apparel companies for 12 years prior to starting Trina Turk. I had been thinking about starting my own company for a while. In 1995, I finally took the plunge. At that time, the L.A. market became known for new “contemporary” brands, and I wanted to try my hand at entrepreneurship. My main motivations were to work for myself and design something I’d

TT: I grew up in California in the 1960s and 1970s. It was a very colorful time both in fashion and interiors. I must have absorbed that aesthetic without realizing it. In the mid-1980s, I was a designer at OP—Ocean Pacific—the surfwear company. It was there that I learned all about printed textiles and fell in love with the process. Remember those airbrushed Bird of Paradise prints? SP: For anyone who is unfamiliar with Palm Springs, can you explain what Palm Springs and its style mean to you? TT: Palm Springs is a desert resort about a two-hour drive from

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Los Angeles. It’s known for its midcentury modern architecture, dramatic vistas of the mountains, and fresh desert air. It’s a place where it feels perfectly natural to wear bright print and color, perhaps poolside with a cocktail in hand. The style of Palm Springs, particularly from the late 1960s and 1970s, has been a constant inspiration for the Trina Turk and Mr Turk brands. The famous photograph “Poolside Gossip” by Slim Aarons, photographed at Richard Neutra’s Kaufmann house, was on the mood board when we started the company.

named the “The Ship of the Desert.” It’s definitely a precursor to the type of midcentury home that became associated with Palm Springs— expanses of glass looking out onto a pool, an open plan, an indoor/outdoor feel. The home appears larger than it is, since it’s only one room wide. All of the larger rooms have windows on two or three sides, and three upstairs bedrooms can only be accessed from the exterior deck. Each of the bedrooms has its own adjoining bathroom, like a stateroom on a ship.

SP: Tell me about your amazing house.

SP: Palm Springs has always been a playground for Hollywood glitterati. Has anyone famous stayed at your house?

TT: It’s a 1936 Streamline Moderne style home situated at the base of the San Jacinto mountains. It was designed by Erle Webster and Adrian Wilson, inspired by Mies van der Rohe’s Tugendhat House. It was on the cover of Sunset magazine in 1937, and in that article, the house was

TT: The most famous guest here was Judy Garland. Rumor has it, she stayed here while having an affair with the lyricist (and neighbor) Johnny Mercer. Other stars from Hollywood’s golden age who had homes in the Mesa neighborhood include Joseph Cotton, Esther Williams, Jack Warner,

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and Victor Mature. More recent residents include Sonny and Cher, and Barry Manilow. SP: Your Caesar salad is quite famous. How did you become the Caesar queen? TT: I worked at a restaurant when I was in college where the waitstaff made Caesar salads tableside. I learned to make them fast and to suit the customer’s taste. [SP: It is a truly amazing salad, fresh and delicious. I love the addition of lemon zest.] SP: All time favorite food? TT: I love Japanese white rice—my mom is Japanese, so that’s my comfort food. SP: Any guilty food pleasures? (Mine is Del Taco’s cheesecake bites.) TT: I eat bittersweet chocolate almost every day, and I don’t feel guilty about it! SWEETPAULMAG.COM 77


Trina’s Caesar Salad SERVES 2

1 to 2 cloves of garlic, finely chopped 2 to 4 anchovy fillets (I prefer the kind that comes in tiny glass jars) grated zest of 1/2 lemon juice from 1/2 lemon Put these 4 ingredients into a wooden salad bowl, and mash them together with a fork to make a paste. This is the tableside way. You can also throw everything (including the ingredients below) in a blender, but still chop the garlic before you put it in the blender.

olive oil—3 generous figure eights into the bowl red wine vinegar— 1 figure eight Worcestershire sauce—1 or 2 good shakes grated Parmesan cheese and black pepper to taste—add as you toss the salad This recipe makes enough dressing for 2 generous handfuls of romaine, torn into bite-size pieces. You could also add a little salt, but the anchovies and Parmesan are salty, so I usually don’t. Toss all well together, and serve with bread croutons.

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Wild About

Watermelon

Cool off with everyone's favorite refreshing summertime fruit Recipes + styling + photography by china squirrel


Watermelon and Rose Gelatin A soft, refreshing dessert to brighten up any summer party.


Salted Chocolate Watermelon Ice Pops These will be a hit at your next pool party.

Watermelon, Pickled Onion, and Goat Cheese Pizza SERVES 4

1 large thick, round slice seedless watermelon 1/2 cup apple cider vinegar 4 teaspoons white sugar 1 teaspoon table salt ½ teaspoon whole black peppercorns 2 red onions, peeled and finely sliced 1½ tablespoons red wine vinegar 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice 3 tablespoons olive oil 2 ounces marinated goat cheese, drained 1 cup baby arugula leaves, rinsed 1/4 cup pistachios, chopped freshly ground black pepper

Salted Chocolate Watermelon Ice Pops SERVES 6

1-inch thick, round disk seedless watermelon 6 wooden popsicle sticks 2 ounces dark chocolate ½ teaspoon coconut oil sea salt for serving 1. Cut watermelon disk into wedges. Use a small, sharp knife to make a slit in the rind of each wedge, and insert a 84 SWEET PAUL MAGAZINE SUMMER 2019

wooden stick into each slit. 2. Use paper towel to pat watermelon flesh dry. Place onto a parchment-paper-covered tray. 3. Melt chocolate in a heatproof bowl in a microwave in 20-second bursts, stirring after each until smooth. 4. Combine chocolate and coconut oil together, then drizzle over watermelon wedges. 5. Place wedges in the freezer for 10 to 15 minutes or until firm. Ice pops can stay in freezer for up to 2 days. Serve sprinkled with sea salt to taste.

1. Place watermelon slice on a serving platter and set aside. 2. Combine apple cider, sugar, salt, and peppercorns in a small saucepan. 3. Bring to the boil, then remove from heat. Pour into a heatproof bowl, straining away peppercorns. 4. Add onions, and stir to coat in hot liquid. Set aside and allow to cool. 5. In a screw top jar, combine red wine vinegar, lemon juice, and olive oil. Shake to mix well. 6. Drain liquid from pickled onions, and arrange onions evenly over watermelon slice. Crumble the goat cheese over onions. Top with arugula and pistachios. 7. Drizzle dressing over pizza, and season generously with freshly ground black pepper. Slice and serve immediately.

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Watermelon, Pickled Onion, and Goat Cheese Pizza This fun alternative to traditional pizza is perfect for those nights when it’s too hot to cook.

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Fresh Watermelon and Rosewater Cake Quick and easy cake that will impress.

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Watermelon Granita Bombe SERVES 6

½ medium seedless watermelon quality rosewater, to taste dried garden roses (pesticide free) for decoration 1. Line a deep, 6-cup freezer-safe bowl with plastic wrap. 2. Remove rind and pith from watermelon. Cut into 2- to 3-inch chunks. Sprinkle with drops of rosewater. Place in a plastic container or freezer bag, and freeze overnight. 3. Just before serving and working in batches, place the chunks of frozen watermelon into a large food processor. Pulse until a soft, pink ice forms.

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4. Quickly transfer granita to the prepared bowl, pressing down with a spoon. Continue until you have filled ž of the basin. 5. Cover with plastic wrap, and place in the freezer for 15 minutes. 6. Carefully invert bombe onto a chilled serving plate, and serve decorated with dried roses.

Light and pretty dessert for a shared table.

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Fresh Watermelon and Rosewater Cake SERVES 6 TO 8

1 medium seedless watermelon 2 tablespoons superfine sugar good quality rosewater fresh rose petals (pesticide free) for decoration 1. Remove rind and pith from watermelon. Cut into 3 large thick squares descending in size. 2. Place the squares onto cooling racks, and place racks over trays to catch excess juice. 3. Sprinkle watermelon with sugar. Allow to stand 30 minutes. 4. Sprinkle watermelon with rosewater to taste. 5. Stack watermelon squares (with the largest at the base) onto a serving plate. Decorate with rose petals. Serve with whipped cream or ice cream if desired.

Watermelon and Rose Gelatin SERVES 6 TO 8

7 cups watermelon juice (about 1/2 large seedless watermelon) ¾ cup superfine sugar 24 gelatin sheets or 7 packets/1.75 ounces unflavored gelatin powder 3 teaspoons quality rosewater 1. Lightly oil two 8-inch by 8-inch square cake tins or similar size tins with vegetable oil. 2. Scoop flesh from watermelon. Working in batches process watermelon in a food processor until

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smooth. Strain juice through a fine sieve lined with cheesecloth. (Do not press the pulp through sieve or juice will become cloudy). 3. Place juice into a large saucepan and add sugar. 4. Bring to a simmer and stir, 4 to 5 minutes or until sugar dissolves. Do not boil. Remove from heat. 5. Soak gelatin in a large bowl of cold water, 5 to 6 minutes or until soft. Gently squeeze out excess water from gelatin. 6. Add gelatin to warm watermelon juice and stir to dissolve. 7. Add rosewater and stir until well combined. 8. Pour gelatin into prepared tins. Refrigerate overnight. Cut gelatin into large squares using a sharp, wet knife. Serve as a refreshing snack or as a dessert with ice cream.

Watermelon and Meringue Cake SERVES 8

3 large egg whites, room temperature ¾ cup superfine sugar + 2 tablespoons superfine sugar, divided 14 ounces fresh strawberries, hulled and halved 2 to 3 teaspoons quality rosewater 3 - x ¼-inch-thick round slices seedless watermelon, rind removed 11 ounces heavy cream 2 tablespoons powdered sugar ¼ cup pistachios, halved fresh rose petals and fresh strawberry leaves

For meringue 1. Preheat oven to 250ºF. Trace 3-inch x 7-inch circles onto 3 sheets of parchment paper. Turn the paper over and place onto 3 baking sheets. 2. Beat egg whites with an electric mixer until soft peaks form. Gradually add ¾ cup of sugar, and whisk until the sugar dissolves. Continue beating for 2 minutes or until the mixture is thick and glossy. 3. Divide the mixture between the 3 prepared baking sheets. Fill each 7-inch circle with meringue. 4. Bake in preheated oven for 50 to 60 minutes or until meringue is crisp to touch. Turn off oven, and allow meringue to cool completely in the oven with its door ajar. 5. In the meantime, toss strawberries, 1 tablespoon of sugar, and rosewater a large mixing bowl. Set aside and allow flavors to develop. 6. Set the watermelon slices on cooling racks placed over baking pans to catch excess juice. Sprinkle watermelon with sugar. Allow to stand 30 minutes. Pat dry with paper towel. 7. Use an electric mixture to beat cream and powdered sugar together until thick. 8. When the meringues are cool, place one meringue on a serving platter, and top with a watermelon slice. Spread 1⁄3 of the whipped cream on the watermelon. 9. Repeat with remaining ingredients, finishing with a top layer of cream. 10. Drain strawberries and arrange on top of cake. Scatter pistachios over cake, and decorate with rose petals and fresh strawberry leaves, if desired.

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Watermelon and Meringue Cake A summertime showstopper

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SWEET HEARTS OF SUMMER SWEET, JUICY FARMERS MARKET TOMATOES COME IN ALL SHAPES, COLORS, AND SIZES AND I LOVE THEM ALL. WHEN THEY'RE IN SEASON, TOMATOES ARE A PLEASURE FOR YOUR EYES AND YOUR TASTE BUDS. THESE ARE MY FAVORITE RECIPES FOR CELEBRATING TOMATOES TIME

Food + Styling + Photography by Paul Lowe


Basic Roasted Tomatoes This simple recipe can be eaten as it is or made into the most delicious sauce. I love to serve it fresh from the oven with my BBQ chicken and some good bread.

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Basic Roasted Tomatoes SERVES 6

2 pounds tomatoes, halved (I like to use a mix of varieties) 1 large yellow onion, in chunks 10 garlic cloves, peeled salt and pepper 14 fresh basil leaves, or 1 tablespoon dried 1/4 cup olive oil 1. Preheat oven to 400ºF. 2. Place the tomatoes on a roasting pan. 3. Add the onion, garlic, salt, pepper, basil, and oil. Use your hands to mix well. 4. Roast until golden, about 20 minutes. Ready to serve. TIP: Add a few small eggplants, cut in half, to the mix for a delicious lunch or side dish.

Penne with Roasted Tomato Sauce SERVES 4

1/2 batch of Basic Roasted Tomatoes, see recipe 1/2 cup heavy cream 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese + extra for serving salt and pepper 1 pound of rigatoni 2 tablespoons pine nuts, roasted in a dry pan a few fresh basil leaves 1. Whiz the tomatoes, heavy cream, and Parmesan in a blender until smooth.

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2. Pour into a large saucepan, and season with salt and pepper. Let it simmer on low for 10 minutes to thicken a little. 3. Cook the pasta in salted water until al dente. Drain, and place in a large serving bowl. 4. Toss pasta with sauce, pine nuts, and basil. Top with more Parmesan and serve.

Tomato Flatbread with Tomatillo Salsa MAKES 1 LARGE FLATBREAD

11⁄3 cups warm water 1 tablespoon dry active yeast 2 tablespoons honey pinch of salt 2 cups all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons olive oil + more for topping 4 tomatoes, sliced salt fresh oregano 1. Pour the water into a large mixing bowl, and add the yeast. Let it stand 2 minutes. 2. Add honey and salt, and stir. 3. Add flour and oil, and mix until you have a smooth but soft, runny dough. 4. Cover and allow to rise for 40 minutes. 5. Preheat oven to 400ºF. Prepare a baking sheet with parchment paper. 6. Pour the dough onto the baking sheet. 7. Drizzle with olive oil, and flatten the dough with your fingers. 8. Top with tomatoes, oregano, and salt. 9. Bake until golden, about 15 minutes. Slice and serve.

Tomatillo Salsa MAKES 1 CUP

6 tomatillos, cut in half 4 garlic cloves, peeled 1 green chili, cut in half 2 tablespoons + 1/2 cup olive oil salt 1. Preheat oven to 425ºF. 2. Place tomatillos, garlic, and chili in an ovenproof dish. 3. Drizzle with about 2 tablespoons of oil. 4. Roast until golden and soft, about 20 minutes. 5. Place the mixture in a blender with the remaining half cup of oil, and blend until smooth. 6. Season with salt and serve. Keeps in the fridge for 10 days.

Summer Tomato and Peach Salad with Burrata SERVES 4

1 pound mixed tomatoes, cut into wedges (or in half, if small) 2 peaches, pitted and cut into wedges 2 small summer squash, sliced a few fennel fronds 2 burrata olive oil for drizzling 1 teaspoon everything bagel spice (Trader Joe’s has a great one) 1. Place the tomatoes, peaches, squash, and fennel fronds on a large platter. 2. Use your hands to break up the cheese on top of or alongside the salad. 3. Top with olive oil and everything bagel spice, or just a little salt.

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Penne with Roasted Tomato Sauce

This is my favorite summer pasta sauce. It’s so light and creamy, and the tomatoes give it the sweetest flavor. It’s lovely on grilled white fish or chicken too.

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Tomato Flatbread with Tomatillo Salsa A recipe that never fails me. Juicy and crusty, I love taking these saucy flatbreads on hikes and picnics. The tomatillo salsa makes a great dipping sauce for bread, cruditĂŠ, or nachos too.

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Summer Tomato and Peach Salad with Burrata

To me, this is the perfect summer salad: sweet and salty at the same time. I love using everything bagel spice on my tomatoes to really bring out the flavors.

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Tomato and Chevre Tart with Honey

This simple, easy-tomake tart is beyond delicious, and wholewheat flour gives it an extra-crispy crust. Serve with a simple green salad.

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1. In a large mixing bowl, combine the flour and butter, working them together quickly with your fingers until you have a grainy texture. 2. Add the water and continue working it in quickly. 3. Roll the dough into a ball, and wrap in plastic. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour. 4. Remove the dough ball from fridge, and roll it out or press it into a 9-inch tart pan. Prick the crust with a fork. 5. Place crust in the freezer for 15 minutes. Preheat oven to 375ºF. 6. Bake the tart shell for 12 to 15 minutes. 7. Place the tomatoes, cheese, oil, pine nuts, salt, and pepper onto the tart crust, and drizzle with half the honey. 8. Bake until golden, about 15 minutes. 9. Remove from oven, and drizzle with the rest of the honey.

Tomato and Mushroom Hash with Eggs SERVES 4

Tomato and Chevre Tart with Honey MAKES 1 TART

11/4 cup whole-wheat flour 1 stick salted butter 2 to 3 tablespoons cold water 2 large tomatoes, sliced 12 cherry tomatoes, halved 1 cup crumbled chèvre cheese 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon pine nuts salt and pepper 1/2 cup honey microgreens for serving 100 SWEET PAUL MAGAZINE SUMMER 2019

4 large tomatoes, halved 8 cherry tomatoes, halved 6 large oyster mushrooms, cleaned and torn into pieces 1 small red onion, finely chopped a few black pitted olives 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme 2 tablespoons olive oil salt and pepper fried eggs microgreens or herbs 1. Preheat oven to 400ºF. 2. Place tomatoes and mushrooms on a roasting tray with onion, olives, thyme, oil, salt, and pepper. 3. Roast until golden, about 20 minutes. 4. Divide the hash onto plates. 5. Top with a fried egg, microgreens, and herbs.

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Tomato and Mushroom Hash with Eggs

The perfect breakfast for cutting carbs. Oyster mushrooms have a “meaty” texture and make a delicious alternative to potatoes.

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A Maker’s Guide to Paris

Put on your most fashionable walking shoes and hit the streets in search of all the hidden gems and beautiful finds Paris has to offer. Text + Photography by Alexandra Villefrance

Lady on her way home in Le Marais. Opposite page: Booth of a lovely French lady who sells vintage buttons, fabric boxes, ribbons and paper bags.


Paris

Clockwise from top: Detail from a local church in Le Marais. Buttons of all sorts, from glass to plastic. Sift through to find what you’re looking for or to find inspiration. White on white fabrics.

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is a great fashion capital and has been home to many well-known fashion houses for decades. France also has a remarkable textile and design history, so it’s a natural place for creative inspiration. Join me on a tour around Paris for a little treasure hunting and pick up a few things for your next DIY project. One of the most visited places in Paris is La Basilique du Sacré-Coeur, where our journey begins. Arriving by metro and strolling along Rue de Steinkerque by foot takes you to the world-famous steps of the Sacré Coeur. From the basilica, walk toward 2 Rue Charles Nodier, where you will find Marché Saint Pierre, a huge four-story fabric warehouse that has everything. Before you go, remember to look up at the Sacré Coeur. Maybe snap a photo! There are many spoils to be uncovered near Marché Saint-Pierre. A must-stop is Tissus Reine, which offers Liberty fabric, ribbons, patterns, and more. There are also smaller shops, each with its own specialty. One shop has only fabric in pre-cut, three-meter pieces, and one only offers lace. Another shop just sells loose buttons by weight. There are shops for zippers and for vintage buttons and for ribbons. And beyond the pink façade of one Mercerie there is a paradise of sequins and appliqués to make any outfit pop. When meandering around Paris, you may come across a hidden gem, and this next shop is one of them. Situated in Le Marais district, you may have passed by Frajexpo without noticing it. But if you are into making

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jewelry, this is the one place you have to visit. Small and always with a queue of customers, Frajexpo is only open a few days a week. And when it’s closed, the rest of us are hidden behind doors of jealousy. A shop dating back to 1860, Ultramod Mercerie is a haberdashery shop of ones dreams. Now two shops in one, it sells everything you can imagine from vintage to new. Popular among Japanese tourists, you may even spot a well-known hot designer too. For all you vintage lovers, a walk to Porte de Clignancourt for the Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen is in order. There are stalls filled with lovely items, but the prices can be quite expensive. I prefer to visit the Marché aux Puces du Porte des Vanves on a Saturday. It’s easy to find: You will see the start of the market as you come up from the Metro 13 station. Prices at Porte des Vanves are more affordable, and there are ladies selling vintage fabrics, ribbons, buttons, and other DIY things. My treasure hunting here is always a success. But remember to come early. Another smaller market worth your time is the Brocante de la place d'Aligre in the 12th arrondissement. First pass by the beautiful local fruit and vegetable market, all nicely displayed. Then, at the end, there is a small vintage market. The last time I was there, I found lots of lovely buttons, antique fabric, and some vintage quilts from Scotland. Paris is a paradise for DIY lovers. My best tip is to just stroll up and down the streets, take your time, and see what inspires you.

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Clockwise from top: A fab man I met coming out of the metro at Porte des Vanves. Lovely colors of fabric. Tables of silk fabrics outside Le Marché Saint Pierre. Ready for embroidery, this vintage pattern with holes and spots.

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Le Marché Saint Pierre 108 SWEET PAUL MAGAZINE SUMMER 2019

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EXTRA TIPS Ultramod Mercerie 3 and 4 rue de Choiseul 75002 Frajexpo 31 rue Charlot, 75003 Open Monday and Thursday 09.30-18.00 and Friday 09.30-12.00 Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen — Porte de Clignancourt Marché aux Puces du Porte des Vanves At Les Puces, you will find all you need for being creative and making your own DIY projects.

Clockwise from top: Paradise behind the pink façade at 10 rue d´Orsel. Hunting for appliqués and feathers. Old fabric swatches from a shop or design studio. Tissus Reine, another great place for fabric. Marché Saint Pierre is a fourstory fabric warehouse that has it all, love or hate it.

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CHEERS

Welcome Summer There are fewer summertime experiences better than serving daiquiris by the pool to good friends. Text by John Bodenschatz + Photography by Paul Lowe

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The daiquiri is a 19th-century cocktail born in Cuba during the Spanish-American War. While contemporary daiquiris conjure an image of frozen fruity drinks, the original is a sublime combination of rum, lime, and sugar. Happily, the modern cocktail movement is driving a resurgence of interest in classic cocktails, and the daiquiri is returning to its proper roots. My favorite variation of the daiquiri embraces flavors of rum, banana, and pineapple. And since the pineapple is a symbol of hospitality, friendship, and warm weather, this cocktail is sure to set off your summer in grand style.

Bienvenido Verano (Welcome Summer) MAKES 1 COCKTAIL

1 ounce Plantation Pineapple Rum 1 ounce Plantation O.F.T.D. Rum 1 ounce Giffard Banana Liqueur .75 ounce lime juice .75 ounce thyme simple syrup pineapple slice, for garnish quality maraschino cherries, for garnish 1. Pour ingredients into the cocktail shaker. 2. Add ice and shake vigorously. 3. Double strain into a coupe glass. 4. Slide the cocktail pick through one side of the pineapple slice, maraschino cherries, and then the other side of the pineapple slice. Note: To make thyme simple syrup, add equal parts water and sugar, and a few sprigs of thyme to a small saucepan and bring to a simmer. Let cool. Strain into a resealable container, and keep in the fridge.

You can find more of John’s fab cocktails at TheCocktailPotluck.com.

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Sweet Paul Magazine - Summer 2019 - #37