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VOLUME 1 - 2011

WANT LONG, HEALTHY HAIR? WHAT’S YOUR HAIR TYPE?

BRIAN PERRY

CELEBRITY HAIR STYLIST

relaxed vs. natural HAIRCARE REGIMENS

BUILD YOUR HAIRCARE ARSENAL


E D I TOR-IN-CHIEF: K e n ya Cox P H OTOGRAPHERS: D e s eri Rosa E v i t a Castine R o b Franklin C O NTRIBUTORS: A u d rey Sivasot hy J o a nne Hender son H A I R STYLISTS: A n d rea Chambers J a n ean Jeffries Ti ff any Roysden M A KEUP ARTISTS D a r i Ada So L a n ae Garcia Ti ff any Roysden J a m ie Dorman J a n ean Jeffries A n d rea Chambers

CONTENTS 8 The basics Basic hair-related concepts and principles that lay the foundation for a Healthy Hair Journey.

22 products Find new products to add to your Haircare Arsenal. 36 features Newbies Basics, Develop your haircare regimen, and meet celebrity hair stylist Brian Perry.

63 real women / real talk See what real women JUST LIKE YOU are doing to take care of their hair. 70 knowledge is power Learn the difference between growth & retention. Find books to help you on your Healthy Hair Journey, and find out the purpose of conditioner.

56 techniques Learn about protective styling, moisturizing & sealing, and CO-Washing. FOR ADVERTISING INFO: advertising@swanghairmagazine.com

SWANG Hair M agazine is publushed bi-monthly by Ur ban Hair Collec tive, LLC info@swanghair magazine.com. Volume 1 published on August 31, 2011.


WHAT I S S W A N G ? Swang is

b o dy…bounce…and movement.

Swang is

h a i r in perfect harmony…protein and moisture bal a n c e d … p o r o s i t y controlled.

Swang is

t h e life and vitality embodied within the confident A f r i c a n A m e r i c an woman.

Swang is

f o r women with standing salon appointments and

DIY Divas. We w i l l c o v e r t opics that range from healthy haircare to b e a u t y & f a s h i on to fitness.


EDITOR’S LETTER W h at is SWANG HAIR MAGAZINE all a b o u t ? W h y d o w e e x i s t ? O n a personal level, I’ve been on m y h a i r j o u r n e y f o r 3 y e a r s . T h e r e h a v e b e e n p l e n t y o f bumps in the road, but I’ve learn e d s o m u c h t h a t I w a n t t o s h a r e i t w i t h n e a r l y e v e r y o n e I meet. However, I’ve seen my f r i e n d s ’ e y e s g l a z e o v e r o n e t o o m a n y t i m e s a f t e r I ’ v e launched into YET ANOTHER hai r - r e l a t e d c o n v e r s a t i o n . C l e a r l y, i t ’s n o t pr a c t i c a l t o t a l k about hair 24/7 outside of the f a n t a b u l o u s ( y e p , I s a i d i t … f a n t a b u l o u s ) h a i r b o a r d s I ’ v e discovered. BlackHairMedia.co m & L o n g H a i r C a r e F o r u m . c o m a r e m y t w o f a v e s . T h ere’s such a wealth of info on tho s e t w o s i t e s a l o n e t h a t I ’ m c o n t i n u o u s l y a m a z e d . W h i ch brings me to why the magazin e c a m e a b o u t . M o s t o f m y f r i e n d s ( a n d y o u r s ) a r e n ’ t g o i ng to spend hours going through p a g e a f t e r p a g e … t h r e a d a f t e r t h r e a d o n t h e h a i r b o ards. I think LHCF alone has over 1 0 0 0 p a g e s o f t h r e a d s ! B u t I b e l i e v e i t ’s i m p e r a t i v e that Black women are given the k n o w l e d g e n e e d e d t o g r o w l o n g h e a l t h y h a i r. I ’ v e a l w ays wanted to run a magazine so t h i s i s m y w a y o f a c h i e v i n g t h a t g o a l a n d g i v i n g b a c k to the community by passing o n t h e k n o w l e d g e t h a t I ’ v e g a i n e d a t t h e s a m e t i m e . T h e theme of this issue is THE BASIC S . T h e m a j o r i t y o f t h e i n f o r m a t i o n p r e s e n t e d g o e s o v e r basic healthy haircare principl e s . W h a t ’s d i f f e r e n t a b o u t t h i s m a g a z i n e i s t h a t w e ’ll be showing you how to care fo r t h e h a i r t h a t g r o w s o u t o f y o u r s c a l p , w h e t h e r y o u ’re relaxed or natural. There wo n ’ t b e a h e a v y f o c u s o n h o w t o c o v e r i t u p w i t h w e aves, wigs, and other types of “s p a r e h a i r. ” T h e r e ’s n o t h i n g w r o n g w i t h t h o s e t h i n g s ( I have a stash of “emergency hair” m y s e l f ! ) b u t I t h i n k i t s i m p o r t a n t t o c a r e f o r y o u r o w n hair. Also, please note that No We a v e s , Wi g s , Ph o n y Po n i e s , o r S p a r e H a i r w e r e h a r med during the creation of this m a g a z i n e ! L O L . . . j u s t k i d d i n g . B u t s e r i o u sl y, w i t h a f e w exceptions I can verify that non e o f t h e m o d e l s a r e w e a r i n g a n y t y p e o f h a i r e x t e n s i o ns. Its all their own beautiful ha i r. I w a n t e d t o s h o w y o u a l l w h a t ’s p o s s i b l e w i t h p a t ience and healthy hair practices . H a ppy Hair Growth!

Kenya Cox E ditor-In-C hief E ditor@swanghairm agazine.com

The Beginning - 2 0 0 8


PUBLISH E R ’S L E T T E R

pr ogress 201 1

S U R P RISE! I’m wearing two hats! T h i s magazine is the culmination of m o r e t h a n a y e a r’s w o r k . A c t u a l l y, t h e i d e a b e g a n t o f o rm about 3 years ago and went th r o u g h a f e w d i f f e r e n t p h a s e s b e f o r e w i n d i n g u p a s t h e product you see now. Needless t o s a y i t ’s b e e n a v e r y l o n g r o a d . I ’ m g rateful to those who have helped m e a l o n g t h e w a y. I w o u l d l i k e t o t h a n k A u d r ey Sivasothy who graciously contr i b u t e d h i g h l y i n f o r m a t i v e a r t i c l e s f o r t h i s f i r s t i s s u e . I’d also like to thank my sorori t y s i s t e r J o a n n e H e n d e r s o n f o r c o n t r i b u t i n g a g r e a t article on Relaxed and Natural h a i r c a r e r e g i m e n s . M a n y t h a n k s g o t o t h e p h o t o g r a phers, hair stylists, makeup artis t s , a n d m o d e l s w h o w o r k e d c o u n t l e s s h o u r s d o i n g numerous photo shoots. Specia l t h a n k s g o t o D e s e r i Ro s a f o r a l l t h e t i m e s h e s p e n t helping me pull this first issue t o g e t h e r. T h a n k s g o t o m a n y o f m y o t h e r s o r o r i t y s i sters who have helped keep me m o t i v a t e d a n d i n s p i r e d t h r o u g h o u t t h i s j o u r n e y. P l e a s e check out TwistedSoles.com a n e w o n l i n e s h o e t i q u e o w n e d b y C r y s t a l D a v i s , o n e o f m y favorite sorority sisters. P l e a s e enjoy this issue and feel free t o g i v e u s f e e d b a c k ! S e n d emails to comments@swanghairm a g a z i n e . c o m

Kenya Cox publisher


Photography by Rob Franklin

Hair by Andrea Chambers

Makeup by Jamie Dorman

Basics


Black Hair

Photography by Deseri Rosa

Hair & Makeup by Janean Jeffries

Myths

M yth 1: Black Hair will not grow long. This is a lie from the pit of Hell. I’m putting 10 on 2? M y bad. However, this is a complete myth. A lie even. Black women can and do grow long hair. Proper haircare prac tices and a good regimen are essential to growin long, healthy hair. M yth 2: Black Hair grows slow. The average hair growth rate is 1/2 inch

per month, regard l e s s o f race or ethnicit y. B l a c k hair can sometim e s grow a tad slower than t h i s, but not much. St u d i e s have shown that B l a c k hair grows at .9 c m p e r month which = .4 i n c h e s per month. This i s j u s t an average and yo u m ay get more or less grow t h than this each mo nt h . One thing to keep i n m i n d is that the natura l c u r l patter n of our ha i r m a k e s it seem to grow s l owe r


b e c a u s e i t ’s n ot stretched o u t. Th e re i s a lso a differe n ce b e t we e n growth and re te nt i o n . I f t he ends of yo u r h a i r a re b reak ing as m u c h a s i t s growing from t h e ro o t i t w i l l seem as if yo u r h a i r i s n’t growing at a l l. M y t h 3 : B l a c k women with g o o d h a i r, c u r l y or fine hair a re th e o n l y o nes who can grow l o n g h a i r. *le sigh* I re a l l y w i s h p e ople would s to p p e r p e t u ating this myth b e c a u s e i t j u s t poisons little b l a c k gi r l s. Th ere is no s u c h t h i n g a s good hair/bad h a i r ! I f yo u h ave some hair o n yo u r h e a d t hat ’s a good t h i n g. Al l h a i r is good hair! M o i s t u re i s K E Y for Black h a i r. Q u i te o f ten biracial wo m e n’s h a i r h as a looser c u r l p at te r n w hich allows t h e h a i r to re t ain more m o i s t u re. M o i stur ized hair b re a k s l e s s. S o moistur ize t h o s e b e a u t i f u l k ink y cur ls! M y t h 4 : G re a s i ng your scalp i s g o o d fo r yo ur hair. NO.

Myth 5(b): Dirty Hair Grows. This. Is. Disgusting. Water is moisture...exactly what Black hair needs most. Dirty hair is just that...dirty. And it stinks.

HELL NO even. Grease contains ingredients such as mineral oil, petroleum/ petrolatum, and lanolin. Grease will leave your hair feeling dr y and yep, you guessed it...greasy. These ingredients don’t moisturize your hair at all. The seal your hair and keep moisture out. You can use hair grease to seal moisture into your hair, but it ’s best to just leave the grease alone so that you don’t r isk coating your scalp and suffocating your hair follicle, which can c ause slow growth or worse no growth. M yth 5: Washing your hair too of ten will dr y out our hair. UNTRUE. I suspec t this myth came about back in the day when shampoos had much harsher ingre dients in them than they do now. S ome shampoos contain(ed) such harsh ingredients that they str ip all of the natural oils from your hair. I think

this is how the “B l a c k gir ls only need to wa s h our hair ever y t wo we e k s” thing came abou t. G ro s s. That ’s like bathin g t w i ce a month. A clean s c a l p i s a healthy scalp. O p t fo r sulfate -free sham p o o s o r others with gentl e - c l e a n sing agents. M yth 6: Cutting/ t r i m m i n g hair makes it grow f a s te r. Hair grows from t h e ro o t, not the tip. Hair i s d e a d protein. I f it was a l i ve wouldn’t a haircu t h u r t ? M yth 8: Only a s t y l i s t can make your ha i r grow long. I t ’s true that s o m e things are best le f t i n t h e hands of a COMP E T E N T st ylist. However, yo u r hair will grow lon g i f i t ’s cared for cor rec t l y. K e e p your protein and m o i s t u re balance in check , l i m i t the use of heat, a n d d o n’t abuse chemicals.


Growth R ate The average person’s hair grows about half an inch per month, regardless of race or ethnicit y. There can be slight var iations but the difference is so small that it's insignificant.

HAIR ANATOMY 101 How much do yo u re a l l y k n ow a b o u t your hair? Und e r s t a n d i n g t h e b a s i c struc ture of ha i r a n d w h at h a p p e n s dur ing a stran d ' s l i fe c yc l e i s c r i t i c a l to your Healthy H a i r J o u r n e y.


The Hai r S h a f t The hai r s h a f t i s co mposed o f a p ro te i n called k e rat i n , t h e cuticle, t h e m e du l l a , and the co r tex . The Cut i c l e The cut i c l e i s t h e t h i nnest laye r. I t i s t ra n sparent a n d co n s i s t s o f over lap p i n g s c a l e - l i k e cells. I t p ro te c t s t h e cor tex f ro m c h e m i c a l s. The M ed u l l a The med u l l a i s t h e core of t h e h a i r s h a f t and cont a i n s s o f t k e ratin ised ce l l s, w hi c h i s key in h e l p i n g to gi ve hair its e l a s t i c i t y.

H a i r Fo r mation H a i r i s for med by cell d i v i s i o n at the base o f t h e follicle, and is a p a r t of a c ycle of grow i n g, resting, and s h e d d i ng. The growing c yc l e c a n be as shor t as 2 ye a r s and as long as 10!

T he L ifecycle G row, R est, Shed Th e anagen is the growth phase; the c at a gen is the inter me d i ate phase; and the te l o gen is the resting o r s hedding phase. Le n g th of Each Cycle Th e anagen phase lasts a b o ut 3 years (1000 d ays according to P&G) b u t can last up to 6, 7, e ve n 10 years for some. Th e catagen phase can l a s t 10 to 21 days. Th e telogen phase lasts u p to 3 months.

Raised Cuticle

H a i r Root

Smooth C u t i c l e


Do You Know Your

HAIR T YPE ?

*Types 3C & 4C were not created by Andre Walker or included in his original hair typing system.

Years ago in his book “An d re Ta l k s H a i r,� ce l e b r i t y s t y l i s t An d re Walker created a hai r t y p i n g s ys te m t h at wo u l d re vo l u t i o n i ze the haircare regimen s o f t h o u s a n d s o f B l a c k wo m e n a c ro s s t h e globe. Type 1 i s s t ra i g ht h a i r w i t h n o c u r l o r wave.


type 4a - KINKY CURLY

TYPE 4b - z-shaped

Dense, tightly coiled, S-shaped strands.

Densely packed, Z-shaped strands with

Extremely tight, dense coils that pack

Can be fine/thin to wiry/coarse. Coffee

sharps bends and less of a defined curl

themselves down into a teeny, weeny

stirrer-sized curls.

pattern.

afro no matter what is done to it.

type 3a - CURLY

TYPE 3b CURLY

TYPE 4c - KINKY CURLY*

TYPE 3c - CURLY*

Big loose, springy, S-shaped curls, and

Medium-sized, bouncy ringlets to

Densely packed tight curls that are

lots of body. Ringlets the size of side-

tight corkscrews. Roughly the size of a

pencil or straw-sized. More challenging

walk chalk.

Sharpie.

to blow dry straight than 3A or 3B.

Type 2a - WAVY

type 2b - WAVY

TYPE 2c - WAVY

Type 2A is thin and fine, lays close to the

Type 2B is medium textured, a little

Type 2C is coarser and thicker, is more

head, has a very definite S pattern, is very

more resistant to styling, and has a

resistant to styling and frizzes easily.

easy to handle, blows out into a straighter

tendency to frizz.

style or curls very easily.


A healthy s c a l p i s yo u r t i c k e t to i m p rove d h a i r growth. The scalp, l i k e a l l s k i n o n t h e b o d y, g o e s t h ro u g h many c ycles of re n e wa l a s i t re s p o n d s to l i fe’s d a i l y s t re ssors. Keeping t h e s c a l p c l e a n a n d s t i m u l ate d w i l l k e e p much

by Audrey S i v a s o t h y

1 . ) Total W ellness is I mportant N u tr itional imbalances always affec t s c a l p h e a l t h a n d h a i r grow t h . To p ro d u ce h i g h q u alit y hair and maintain a healthy fu n c t i o n i n g s c a l p, e at a w i d e va r i e t y o f co l o r f ul f r uits, meats, and vegetables. B ecaus e h a i r a n d n a i l s re ce i ve t h e i r n u t r i e nt s a f te r o t h e r v i t al areas of the body, it is impor tant to e n s u re t h at yo u a re m e e t i n g t h e re co m m e n d e d d a ily allowances for your vitamins an d m i n e ra l s. Ta k e a b a s i c m u l t i -v i t a m i n s u p p l e m e nt i f you are deficient in one or more nu t r i t i o n a l a re a s. Physical ac tivi t y has been found to re d u ce s t re s s a n d i n c re a s e b l o o d f l ow to t h e h e a d a n d scalp. Smok ing should be avoide d a s p a r t o f g e n e ra l we l l n e s s. S m o k i n g co n s t r i c t s t h e body ’s blo od vessels and slows dow n b l o o d c i rc u l at i o n .

Photography by Evita Castine

3 Keys to a Healthy Scalp

Hair & Makeup by Janean Jeffries

needed b l o o d f l ow d i re c te d to t h e h a i r fo l l i c l e s.


2 . ) Kee p Y o u r Sca l p C lean While it is a common practice to “grease the scalp,� this practice may be more harmful than helpful f o r g r o w i n g o u r h a i r. W h e n t h e scalp is burdened with heavy products like greases and oils, the hair follicles may become b l o c k e d . T h i s c l o g g i n g a n d b l o c kage can lead to dandruff and g r o w i n g t h e h a i r c a n b e c o m e d i ff i c u l t . O f t e n t h e c h r o n i c a l l y d r y, flaky scalp we contend with is brought on by harsh shampoo products and heavy oiling which stunts natural sebum production. The proper way to hydrate the scalp is simply through frequent h y d r a t i n g a n d c o n d i t i o n i n g ..

A CLEAN SCALP IS A H E A LT H Y

3 . )Use G ent le Cleansers Av o i d s ulfate-based shampoos, and see k o u t g e n tler sulfate-free cleansers for w e e k l y h a i r m a i ntenance. Harsh clarifying sha m p o o s s h ould only be used once per mo n t h . C o n d i t i oner washing or simple scalp ri n s i n g w i t h c o ol water are methods that work w e l l f o r t h o s e w ith strenuous work out schedul e s w h o n e e d t o cleanse their hair regularly wit h o u t t h e h a r s h n e ss of shampoos.


HEALTHIER HAIR I N 3 0 DAYS


HARDCORE PROTEIN

deep condition

Opt for the Aphogee 2-Step Keratin

Mositurizing deep conditioner, such as,

Teatment or Nexxus Emergencee.

Redken Real Control Intense Renewal.

silk scarf or bonnet Or a silk/satin pillowcase

Use less heat Or no heat if you can.

less manipulation Try low and no manipulation styles.

co-washing Try washing your hair with conditioner instead of shampoo.

SCALP MASSAGES

better products

hands out of hair


acronyms you should know. . .

Along your Healthy Hair Jour ney you will encounter tons of acronyms. Trust me there’s an acronym for almost ever ything. New ones are being invented daily.

AV C

bhm

Ap p l e Ci d e r Vi n e g a r

Black Hair M edia. com

B C

B S S

Big Chop

B eaut y Supply

E V CO

E x t ra Virgi n Co co n u t O i l

E V O O

E x t ra Virgi n O l i ve Oil

hhg

Happy Hair Growing

hhj

Healthy Hair Jour ney

lhcf Long Hair Care Forum.com

ng

New Growth


PJ

Pro d u c t J u n k i e

T WA

Te e ny We e ny Af ro

E L

E a r Length

Shoulder Length

N L

C bl

N e ck Length

A P L

Ar m p i t Le n g t h

bsl

B ra St ra p Le n g t h

W L - Wa i s t Le n g t h

 tl  - Ta i l b o n e

H L - H i p Le n g t h Le n g t h

S l

Collar B one Length

B S B

B elow Shoulder Blade

M B L

M id Back Length


Products

Photography by Deseri Rosa Hair by Andrea Chambers Makeup by Lanae Garcia


I H C f o r e w o P e Th CHI 44 I ron Guard is a Ther mal Protec t ing Spray that pro tec ts and strengthens the hair from the inside out with the Power of CHI 44 Ce ramic! I t ’s a weightless for mula w i th no build up that offers comp l ete protec tion from ther mal s t yling tools. Each CHI produc t f ro m is for mulated with the CHI Cationic H ydration I nter link System w hich is a positively charged mole c ule that provides moisture and l i n ks into the hair ’s fiber. Silk and p rotein bonds are Cationic posit i vely charged) and penetrate into the negative areas within the hair to build strength and resilience.

Contains C H I 4 4 C eramic and C ationic H ydration I nterlink , C H I I nfra provides moisture and strength by infusing hair with vital emollients , humectants and proteins for hair that ’ s manageable and healthy.

I nfra S hampoo S uitable for all hair types G ently cleanses the hair and corrects the moisture balance of the hair and scalp

I n f ra Tre at m e nt - M o l e c u l e s a re i nte rl o c k e d i n s i d e o f t h e h a i r. I m m e d i ate l y m o i s t u r i ze s a n d re co n s t r u c t s t h e i n n e r s t r u c t u re o f t h e h a i r. I m p rove s s t re n g t h a n d e l a s t i c i t y.


Step 2 is the CHI Nour ish I ntense Silk Hair M asque for Fine Hair or Coarse Hair. I t is infused with NE W H ydraSilk Complex for deep nour ishment that replenishes, moistur izes and reconstruc ts the hair. Whether your hair is fine or coarse it is lef t feeling silk y sof t with incredible body and shine.

N o u r i s h I nte nse C H I N o u r i s h I ntense cont a i n s H yd ra s ilk Complex w h i c h re c h a rges hair with a n i nte n s i ve dose of moist u r i z i n g n u t r ients to n o u r i s h a n d repair dr y, d am a g e d h a i r. The result is h e a l t hy l o o k ing hair with a s o f t f i n i s h and optimum s h i n e.

Th e C h i N o u r ish I ntense H yd rat i n g S i lk Bath is an ex t ra r i c h , c reamy for mula t h at g e nt l y cleanses, p am p e r s a n d nur tures hair b ac k to a s o f t, silk y condit i o n a n d i t i s safe for color t re ate d h a i r.

Nour ish I ntense Silk Hair M asque for Fine to Nor mal Hair R epl enishes dr y and dam aged hair with essential ingredients that moistur ize and reconstruc t the hair

Nour ish I ntense S i l k H a i r M asque for Nor m a l to Coarse Hair R eplenishes dr y a n d damaged hair wit h e s s e ntial ingredients t h at m o i stur ize and recons t r u c t t h e hair CHI Nour ish I nten s e S i l k Hair M asque for N o r m a l to Coarse Hair leave s co a r s e hair feeling silk y s o f t w i t h incredible contro l a n d shine


Fro m t h e f a r- f l u n g co r n e r s o f t h e e a r t h , R u s k s o u rce s ra re o i l s f ro m t h e Ta h i t i a n Ti a re f l owe r, t h e M o ro cc a n Arg a n t re e a n d Et h i o p i a n Abys s i n i c a to c re ate S E N S O R I E S W E L L N E S S , t h e l ate s t a d d i t i o n to t h e s u cce s s f u l, i nv i go rat i n g S e n s o r i e s l i n e o f h a i r c a re p ro d u c t s. Fre e o f s u l f ate s, p a ra b e n s, p e t ro c h e m i c a l s, p ht h a l ate s a n d M E A / T E A / D E A , We l l n e s s o f fe r s a n o p t i o n fo r m a i nt a i n i n g a n o p t i m a l s t ate o f h e a l t h a n d way o f b e i n g. We l l n e s s p rov i d e s a co l o r- s a fe, o rg a n i c a n d l u x u r i o u s h a i r c a re ex p e r i e n ce. I t u s e s o n l y t h e f i n e s t i n gre d i e nt s l i k e p a nt h e n o l, hyd ro l y ze d s i l k , m a n g o b u t te r a n d m o re, co m b i n e d w i t h p re c i o u s exo t i c o i l s to g e nt l y a n d e f fe c t i ve l y c l e a n s e, co n d i t i o n a n d t re at. Ava i l a b l e i n t h re e ha i r c a re s ys te m s e a c h b a s e d o n a k e y i n gre d i e nt a n d e a c h co nt a i n i n g t h e fo u r e s s e nt i a l e l e m e nt s – s h a m p o o, co n d i t i o n e r, r i c h c rè m e t re at m e nt a n d re p a i r d ro p s.

RUSK: S S E N L L E W S E I R ile treating your hair S E NySo uO r senses wh Indulge


B e dew (hydrate – Exotic O rganic Tahitian Oil) is a l u xur ious collec tion form ulated with the oil of the Ta hitian Tiare flower, the star o f Polynesia, k nown for its hydrating and soothing abili t i es. Specifically created for h a ir in need of ser ious moist u re.

R efle c t ( e n h a n ce s h i n e Orga n i c S oy b e a n O i l ) co mbines t h e o i l f ro m t h e soyb e a n ( r i c h i n O m e g a - 3 ) with j o j o b a o i l fo r h i g h s h i n e, mar in e co l l a g e n fo r m o i sture re te nt i o n a n d p ro te c tion a g a i n s t d a m a g e, a n d mang o b u t te r fo r i t s n at u ra l emol l i e nt p ro p e r t i e s. H a i r i s lef t s m o o t h , s h i ny, s i l k y a n d gleam i n g w i t h h e a l t h .

H e a l ( re s to re - O rg a n i c Arg a n O i l ) u s e s Arg a n o i l, a n a n c i e nt M o ro cc a n i n gre d i e nt w h i c h is rich in oleic and linoleic a c i d s, v i t a m i n E, p h e n o l s a n d c a ro te n e s, w i t h re s to rat i ve p ro p e r t i e s t h at h e l p re p a i r, s t re n g t h e n a n d a d d yo u t hf u l l u s te r to d a m a g e d h a i r. I t t h e n co m b i n e s t h e o i l w i t h p a nt h e n o l, a l l a nto i n a n d f i g ex t ra c t fo r t r u l y t ra n s fo r m at i ve re s u l t s o n co a r s e, d r y, d a m a g e d h a i r.

R U S K SENSORIES WELLNESS Collec tion i s ava i l a b l e at l e a d i n g s a l o n s a n d s p a s a n d o nl i n e at St y l eS ource.com. Shampoo/Conditione r / Tre at m e nt re t a i l fo r $ 1 9 . 9 5 a n d R e p a i r D ro p s re t a i l fo r $12

Fa s h i on + Culture + Attitude, I nter natio n a l l y re n ow n e d l e a d e r i n t h e p ro fe s s i o n a l s a l o n i n d u st r y, R USK is one of the only professional co m p a n i e s to p rov i d e a f u l l ra n g e o f p ro d u c t s a n d to o l s fo r s alons and their clients. RUSK produ c t s a l l ow s t y l i s t s to u s e i n n ovat i ve a n d i m a gi n at i ve te c hn i q u es to provide their clients ever ythin g f ro m t h e l ate s t r u nway l o o k s to t h e n ex t “m u s t h ave” h a i r t rend. From D eepshine™ Hair Color a n d R U S K Pro fe s s i o n a l E n gi n e e r i n g to o l s to S e n s o r i e s Pro fe ssional Hair Care and the D esigner Co l l e c t i o n s t y l i n g a n d f i n i s h i n g ra n g e, R U S K p ro d u c t s a re ava i l able at salons inter na ionally. Visit w w w. r u s k 1 . co m .


S L I O R E POW

Olive O i l h a s b e e n u s e d fo r ce ntur ies in a var iet y of beaut y treatments. Ex tra Vi rgi n O i l O i l ( E V O O) h a s the benefit of no added chemicals. I t can also b e u s e d d u r i n g s c a l p m a s s ages and is said to be helpful in preventing h a i r l o s s. To t re at d r y, f r i z z y hair massage war m olive oil into your scalp, apply to t h e le n g t h o f yo u r h a i r (paying close attention to the ends, cover with a p l a s t i c c a p a n d a l l ow i t to sit for a few hours or over night.

Photography by Rob Franklin Hair by Andrea Chambers

C

o co n u t o i l h a s a hyd rating effec t on hair and sk in. I t also poss e s s e s a nt i ox i d a nt, antibac ter ial, and antifungal proper ties. D ue to i t s l ow m o l e c u l a r weight, coconut oil has the abilit y to pene t rate t h e h a i r s h a f t, unlike mineral oil which just sits on top o f t h e h a i r b l o c k i n g out moisture. Coconut oil can be used to m a s s a g e yo u r s c a l p, added to shampoos, conditioners, added to relaxe r s, a s a h o t o i l t re at m e nt, or even as par t of your hair steaming treatment. O p t fo r ex t ra v i rgi n co conut oil (E VCO).

Makeup by Jamie Dorman

an a t u r a l o il s c N . y t li a it v and n o f h e a lt h ig s a s. is ir a h in y h a lt h y s t r a n d e h , d e iz r u t L u x u r io u s , s m o is v e p e r fe c t ly ie h c a u o y h e lp


MAC ADAMIA NUT OIL

AVOC A D O O I L Avoca d o o i l i s ve r y light s o i t e a s i l y s o a k s into t h e h a i r a n d s k i n . Along w i t h b e i n g a natura l s u n s c re e n , avoca d o o i l co nt a i n s essent i a l n u t r ie nt s t hat p ro m o te h e a l t hy hair grow t h , s u c h a s, vitam i n s A , D, a n d E, amino a c i d s a n d l e c ithin. Us e o rg a n i c avoca d o o i l to c re ate a hair m a s k o r m a k e a home m a d e s h a m p o o or con d i t i o n e r. ( S e e K itche nt i c i a n R e c i p e s ) Avoca d o o i l c a n b e p u rchase d at yo u r l o c a l groce r y s to re, h e a l t h food s to re, o r o n l i n e. Unrefined Avocado Oil

M a c a damia nut oil m o i s t ur izes and s t re n gthens damaged, l i m p hair. Easily a b s o r bed into the hair a n d s k in, it rejuvenates d u l l h air. M acadamia o i l co ntains a fatt y acid t h at i s similar y to your s c a l p' s sebum (natural o i l p roduced by your s c a l p). Th i s oil sof tens thick , co a r s e hair and leaves i t d e eply nour ished. M a c a damia can be fo u n d in stores but t h e re are great sources o n l i n e as well. Macadamia Nut Oil 4oz for $3.65 www.lotioncrafters.coms Also well worth mentoning is the Macadamia Natural Oil Healing Treatment. Available in new, affordable sizes it's a must have! .34oz for $6.50 and 1oz for $13

JOJOBA OIL Pronounced "ho -ho bah" (stop snicker ing) jojoba oil is a liquid wax that is also similar in struc ture to your natural sebum. I t can be used as a "pre -poo" before you shampoo your hair. Simply apply to hair, cover w ith a plastic cap, leave on for an hour, and then use a mild shampoo. Jojoba oil is als o aids in cleansing your scalp. Jojoba oil is pr icier than the other oils mentioned in this ar ticle. M any online suppliers are also out of stock . Never fear! We found a stash!

4oz for $2.78

www.soapgoods.com

Jojoba Oil 4oz for $6.50 www.100pureessentialoils. com


DEM I - P E R MA N E N T Last s t h ro u g h 2 4 - 2 8 s h a m p o o s. Longer lasting than s e m i - p e r m a n e nt a n d l e s s damaging than per m a n e nt h a i r co l o r. Tr y I o n Color Br illiance D em i - Pe r m a n e nt, ava i l a b l e at S ally B eaut y Sup p l y. PER MA N E N T Per m a n e nt ( d u h ) . Th i s t y p e o f color will last until you grow i t o u t, c u t i t o u t, o r re - color it. Typically this i s b e s t d o n e by a CO M P E T ENT st ylist. I t ’s also adv i s a b l e to avo i d d o u b l e p ro cessing (relaxer and per m a n e nt co l o r, fo r ex a m p l e ) CLE A R G LO SS A c l e a r, s e m i - p e r m a n e nt r i n s e that adds shin e b u t d o e s n’t d e p o s i t co l or. Adore also m a k e s a s e m i - p e r m a n e nt clear gloss that ’s d e f i n i te l y wo r t h t r y i n g. HEN N A - N AT U R A L DYE Hen n a p owd e r i s m a d e f ro m a plant that has bee n u s e d a s h a i r d ye fo r t h o usands of years. I t w i l l s t a i n yo u r h a i r a d a r k red. For dar k brow n to b l u e - b l a c k h a i r i n d i go can be used foll ow i n g a h e n n a t re at m e nt. I t ’s ver y important to o n l y u s e b o d y- a r t q u a l it y henna as com p o u n d h e n n a c a n A N D w i l l cause a nast y reac t i o n w h e n i t co m e s i n co ntac t with commerc i a l d ye o r o t h e r c h e m i c a l residue, such as re l a xe r s. C h e c k o u t w w w. m ehandi.com and w w w. h e n n a fo r h a i r. co m fo r m ore infor mation and to p u rc h a s e b o d y a r t q u a lit y henna.

Ha ir Co lo r Ba si cs

SEM I - P E R MAN E N T Last s t h ro u g h 8 - 1 2 s h a m p o o s. Tr y Adore in B l a c k Ve l ve t, a s e m i - p e r m a nent color with n o a l coh o l, a m m o n i a , o r peroxide


Hair by Andrea Chambers

Makeup by Lanae Garcia

product shelf - life & storage

an expirati o n d ate. Are yo u g u i l t y o f keeping yo u r p ro d u c t s f a r p a s t t h e i r s h e l f - l i fe ?

CO N D I T I O N E R S : 1 to 2 ye a r s R E L AX E R S : S O D I U M HYD R OX I D E : 1 to 1 . 5 ye a r s G UA N I D I N E HYD R OX I D E : 2 ye a r s HAIRDRESSINGS - O I L S : 2 ye a r s - C R E M E S : 1 to 1 . 5 ye a r s

Photography by Desri Rosa

Just like m a k e u p, h a i r p ro d u c t s h ave

S H AM P O O S : 1 to 2 ye a r s


D on’t r is k d a m a gi n g g o rg e o u s t re s ses like these with expired produc ts. What co u l d h a p p e n i f a p ro d u c t h a s expired? B est case scenar io: a produc t t hat is u s e d a f te r ex p i rat i o n wo n’t per for m as effec tively as it was intended to. Wor s t- c a s e s ce n a r i o, t h e p ro d uc t could har m you, especially if bac ter ia have grow n i n t he co nt a i n e r

F I N I S H I N G PR ODUC TS: Up to 2 ye a r s H A I R DYE: 1 to 1.5 years P R O P E R PR ODUC T STOR AGE G e n e ra l l y, produc ts should b e s to re d at room temperat u re, away from heat, direc t s u n l i g ht and ex treme cold. Sto ra g e of produc ts in refr ige rato r s i s not recommended a n d p ro duc ts should never b e p l a ce d in a freezer.

SIGNS OF PR O D U C T EXPIR ATION Th e fo l l ow i n g proper ties w i l l s i gn a l t h at a produc t is b e yo n d i t s s h e l f l i fe : - Produc t S e p a rat i o n - Foul O dor ( o f te n c a u s e d by bac ter ial co nt a m i n at i o n ) - Loss of Vis co s i t y ( p ro d u c t becomes thi n n e r )

- B u i l d u p o f Vi s co s i t y (p ro d u c t b e co m e s m u c h t h i c k e r ) - R a n c i d O d o r ( t h i s o f te n h a p p e n s to n at u ra l o i l s t h at h ave b e e n ex p o s e d to a i r a n d / o r s u n l i g ht fo r ex te n d e d p e r i o d s )


1

Haircare Arsenal

PRODUCTS YOU NEED IN YOUR “STASH” TO HELP YOU ON YOUR HEALTHY HAIR JOURNEY

Clarifying Shampoo

2

3 Generic Haircare Regimen (It can be as simple as this... or more complex)

Clarifying Shampoo (when needed)

Moisturizing Shampoo Moisturizing Shampoo

4

M o i s t u r i z i n g S h a mp o o

5

Protein Conditioner or Reconstructor Moisturizing Deep Conditioner Porosity Control Leave-In Conditioner Heat Protectant (if you plan to blow dry or flat iron)

Protein Reconstr uctor

Protein Reconstructor


7

6

M o isturizing Deep C o nditioner

Moi s t u r i z i n g D e e p Con d i t i o n e r

9

Leave-in Conditioner

8

Porosity Control

10

Heat Protectant

1 - O rganic Root Stimulator Cream y A l o e S h a mp o o 2 - Neutrogena Triple Moisture Cr e a m L a t h e r S h a mp o o 3 - Nexxus Therappe Luxurious M o i s t u r i z i n g S h a mp o o 4 - Aphogee 2 Minute Keratin Rec o n s t r u c t o r 5 - Nexxus KerapHix Restorative S t r e n g t h e n i n g C o n d i t i o n e r 6 - Organic Root Stimulator Reple n i s h i n g Pa k ( a l s o av a i l a b l e i n b o t t l e s ) 7 - Joico Moisture Recover y Condi t i o n e r 8 - Roux Porosity Control Cor recto r & C o n d i t i o n e r 9 - Roux Fer modyl 619 Extra Stre n g t h L e av e - I n C o n d i t i o n e r fo r D r y, C h e m i c a l l y R e l axed Hair 10 - Redken Smooth Down Heat Gl i d e


Photography by Deseri Rosa

Makeup by Tiffany Roysden

Features


Wh at wo r k s fo r yo u r h a i r m ay n o t wo r k fo r s o m e o n e e l s e’s… a n d v i ce ve r s a . Th e re i s n o O n e S i ze Fi t s Al l p ro d u c t o r h a i rc a re re gi m e n . Th e o n l y t h i n g t h at wo r k s fo r e ve r yo n e i s g o o d o l d f a s hi o n e d Tr i a l a n d E r ro r.

A F ew T hings To

remember

Pay at te nt i o n to w h at yo u r h a i r i s te l l i n g yo u. I t w i l l te l l yo u ex a c t l y w h at i t n e e d s. I s i t d r y ? I t n e e d s m o i s t u re. I s i t m u s hy ? I t n e e d s p ro te i n . Tre at yo u r h a i r l ik e t h e f i n e s t s i l k . Pl e a s e re m e mb e r t h at a s i t g e t s l o n g e r i t ’s a l s o g e t t i n g o l d e r. B e ex t ra g e nt l e w i t h yo u r e n d s. R e d u ce t h e a m o u nt o f d i re c t h e at yo u u s e o n yo u r h a i r to o n ce a we e k o r o n ce e ve r y 2 we e k s. Fi n d s t y l e s t h at d o n’t re q u i re d i re c t h e at : ro l l e r s e t s, f l ex i ro d s e t s, b ra i d o u t s, t w i s t o u t s, a n d b u n s fo r ex a m p l e.

Look for shampoos that contain S odium Laureth Sulfate or S odium M yreth Sulfate. These are t wo gentle cleansing agents. Tr y to stay away from shampoos with Ammonium Laureth Sulfate, Ammonium Laur yl Sulfate and S odium Laur yl Sulfate these are harsher cleansing agents. Available at S allyB eaut y. com Supply for $2.59

D e t a n g l e yo u r h a i r i n t h e s h owe r u n d e r r u n n i n g wate r w i t h a w i d e to o t h s e a m l e s s co m b o r w i t h yo u r f i n g e r s. I t ’s e a s i e r to d e t a n g l e we t h a i r, e s p e c i a l l y i f yo u a d d a co n d i t i o n e r t h at gi ve s yo u r h a i r g o o d s l i p. Yo u m ay a l s o find a Denman brush helpful i n d e t a n g l i n g yo u r h a i r.


Us e war m, lukewar m or cool wate r on your hair. Never hot wate r. As a matter of fac t a co o l or cold water r inse w i l l h elp smooth your cutic l e s d own mak ing it easier to co m b your hair.

D r i n k lots of wate r, get e n o u g h rest, eat r ight, and exe rc i se. Those things are k e y to helping you grow h e a l t hy hair from the inside o u t.

Hair by Andrea Chambers

O n a s imilar note, if you’re re l a xe d, especially if you do t h e m yourself…DO NOT SKIP T H E N EUTR ALI Z ER ! This step i s n e cessar y to br ing your h a i r ’s pH level back down to n o r m a l. Sk ip it and your hair w i l l b e ever y where but on yo u r head.

Photography by Deseri Rosa

D O N OT SKIP CONDITIONER! Th i s i s one of the greate s t weapons in your hairc a re a rsenal. D eep condition w i t h o r without heat at least o n ce a week . Use protein co n d i t ioners as needed. I f yo u’re relaxed you’ll need it m o re of ten. I f you’re chemic a l - f ree you’ll need moisture m o re of ten.

Makeup by Jamie Dorman

Le a r n your hair t ype and yo u r hair ’s individual chara c te r i stics. I t will help yo u a great deal in finding p ro d u c ts and developing a re gi m en.


newbie basics

P R OT E C T I V E S T YL E S . Pro te c t i ve s t y l e s k e e p yo u r h a i r o f f yo u r c l o t h e s. C l o t h e s c a n h a r m f u l to yo u r h a i r, e s p e c i a l l y t h e e n d s, d e p e n di n g o n t h e f a b r i c. O n e o f t h e m a i n g o a l s o f yo u r H e a l t hy H a i r J o u r n e y i s to re t a i n t h e l e n g t h t h at yo u’re grow i n g o u t. Pro te c t i ve s t y l i n g i s a gre at to a c h i e ve t h i s g o a l. Pro te c t i ve s t y l e s i n c l u d e : Fl ex i - ro d s, R o l l e r s e t s, B ra i d s, Po ny t a i l s, Ph o ny Po n i e s, S e w- i n s, U p d o s, e tc. S T R E TC H I N G . R e fe r s to s t re tc h i n g o u t t h e t i m e t h at p a s s e s b e t we e n g e t t i n g re l a xe r s. Th i s a l l ows yo u to grow o u t e n o u g h n e w grow t h to k e e p f ro m ove rl a p p i n g t h e re l a xe r o nto p re v i o u s l y re l a xe d h a i r, w h i c h l e a d s to ove r p ro ce s s e d, t h i n h a i r. E i g ht we e k s i s t h e l e a s t a m o u nt o f t i m e t h at ’s re c o m m e n d e d. S o m e wo m e n s t re tc h fo r 1 2 , 1 6 , e ve n 2 4 + we e k s. Wa nt t h i c k e r h a i r ? St re tc h yo u r re l a xe r s. T R A N S I T I O N I N G . Th e p ro ce s s o f grow i n g o u t yo u r re l a xe r a n d l e a r n i n g to c a re fo r yo u r n at u ra l h a i r.

S HRINK AGE. This is what causes cur l y h a i r to a p p e a r to b e shor ter than what it really is. Th i s c a n h a p p e n to h a i r t hat is fully natural or to relaxed ha i r t h at h a s a s i gn i f i c a nt a mount of new growth.

T H E B AG G Y M E T H O D. A ve r y s i m p l e m e t h o d fo r k e e p i n g yo u r h a i r m o i s t u r i ze d. Ap p l y t h e m o i s t u r i ze r o f c h o i ce to yo u r h a i r, s e a l w i t h a n o i l ( co co n u t o i l, o l i ve o i l, w h ate ve r yo u r p re fe r ) , t h e n p u t


o n a p lastic cap. Leave it on 3 0 m i nutes or over night, w h i c h ever you prefer. TE X L AXED. Under processing yo u r h air on pur pose. This i s a n o t her way to get thicker h a i r, e specially if your hair i s f i n e or thin. Essentially yo u d on’t allow th e relaxer to p ro cess your hair bone s t ra i g ht. I f at some point yo u want it bone straight it ’s e a s y to flat iron it as straight as yo u’d like. B e s ure to use a g o o d heat protec tant. CO -WA SHING. ConditionerO n l y Washing. M any women o p t fo r washing their hair w i t h conditioner instead of h a r s h e r, sulfate -laden shamp o o s. Conditioners also co nt a i n cleansing agents, t h o u g h not in the same am o u nt as shampoos. P R E - P OOING. Pre S h a m p ooing. You can pre p o o w i th oils or with a m o i s t ur izing conditioner. Fo l l ow up with your favor ite s h a m p oo. S C A L P MASSAGES. M assaging yo u r s calp helps stimulate b l o o d flow to the area and e n co u rages hair growth.


building a haircare regimen by Au d r e y S i v a s o t h y

Just sta r t i n g yo u r H e a l t hy H a i r Jour ney a n d n e e d a re gi m e n ? Is your c u r re nt re gi m e n n o t wor k ing ? C h e c k o u t t h e s e t i p s ! B u i l ding a successful hair care regimen i s t h e f i r s t s te p to a c h i eving improved hair care outcomes fo r t h o s e w i t h text u re d hair t ypes. However, with new p ro d u c t s s e e m i n g l y h i t t ing the shelves ever y minute, build i n g a s o l i d h a i r c a re re gi men can become quite over whelmi n g. S o w h at a re t h e b a s i c building blocks of the most succe s s f u l h e a l t hy h a i r c a re regimens? R ead on!

Any s u cce s s f u l h a i r c a re re gi m e n m u s t b e f l ex i b l e a n d re s p o n s i ve to t h e h a i r ’s n e e d s a s t h e y c h a n g e. Eve r y s h a m p o o, co n d i t i o n e r, o r l e ave - i n p ro d u c t we u s e c a n b e p l a ce d i nto t wo b a s i c c ate g o r i e s : p ro te i n - b a s e d p ro d u c t s a n d m o i s t u re - b a s e d p ro d u c t s. Al l h a i r c a re re gi me n s re q u i re a m i x t u re o f p ro te i n a n d m o i st u re p ro d u c t s to h e l p t h e h a i r m a i nt a i n i t s p ro p er b re a k a g e f i g ht i n g b a l a n ce. Th e g e n e ra l r u l e i s t h at t h e l e s s d a m a g e d yo u r h a i r i s, t h e fe we r p ro te i n p ro d u c t s yo u r h a i r re q u i re s. Th e m o re d a m a g e d yo u r h a i r i s, t h e m o re p ro te i n p ro d u c t s yo u w i l l n e e d.


M o i stur izing shampoos are g e ntle cleansers that leave t h e hair feeling sof t and d e t a ngled. S elec t a moisturi z i n g shampoo that is free o f s tr ipping sulfate ingre d i e nts. Example s include s h a mpoo produc ts from Au b rey Organics, Bur t ’s B ees, J A S ON Naturals, L’Oreal, and S i l k Elements among many o t h ers. Us a ge: M oistur izing shamp o o s should be used once or t w i ce week ly depending on yo u r schedule.

Photography by Evita Castine

Hair by Janean Jeffries Makeup by Dari Ada So

C l a r ifying shampoos str ip t h e hair of produc t buildup a n d are great for star ti n g the hair off fresh each m o nth. The best clar ifiers

contain s u l f ate i n gre d i e nt s. Example s o f g o o d c l a r i f y i n g shampo o s i n c l u d e : K e n ra Clar ifyi n g S h a m p o o, Pa nte n e Pro -V Pu r i t y S h a m p o o, Joico RE S O LV E ® C h e l at i n g Shampo o, a n d N ex x u s Al o e R id Sha m p o o. Usage: C l a r i f y i n g s h a m p o o s should b e u s e d o n ce p e r month, e s p e c i a l l y i f yo u u s e heav y p ro d u c t s l i k e gre a s e s and oils d a i l y. A deep co n d i t i o n e r i s t h e back bon e o f t h e h a i r c a re regimen a n d s h o u l d co nt a i n light pro te i n s, ce ra m i d e s, humec t a nt s, a n d l i g ht o i l s. Avoid h e av y o i l s l i ke p e trolatum , m i n e ra l o i l, a n d castor o i l i n d e e p co n-

ditioners as these will co at a n d d r y o u t t h e h a i r. Examples: (Moisturizing) Crè m e o f N at u re N o u r i s h i n g Co n d i t i o n e r, N ex x u s H u m e c t re s s, K e n ra M o i s t u r i z i n g Co n d i t i o n e r, a n d K e ra c a re H u m e c to. ( Pro te i n ) Au b re y O rg a n i c s G P B a n d M a n e N Ta i l. Us a g e : A d e e p co nd i t i o n e r s h o u l d fo l l ow t h e m o i s t u r i zi n g s h a m p o o at e ve r y we e k l y wa s h . D e e p co n d i t i o n t h e h a i r fo r u p to 3 0 m i n u te s w i t h h e at. Pro te i n t re at m e nt s & re co ns t r u c to r s m ay co nt a i n a va r i e t y o f l i g ht a n d h e av y p ro te i n s s u c h a s k e rat i n , w h e at p ro te i n , a n d e ve n

All hair care regimens require a mixture of protein and moisture products to help the hair maintain its proper breakage-fighting balance.

Always s e l e c t wate r- b a s e d m o i s t u r i ze r p ro d u c t s t h at d o not co nt a i n m i n e ra l o i l o r p e t ro l at u m .


s m a ll amino acids. S elec t o n e (1) protein treatment o n t he light to mild end of t h e spec trum for light touch u p s and selec t another (1) p ro tein treatment on the m o derate to heav y end for m o re intense protein cond i t i oning. Always follow a p ro tein reconstruc tor with a m oistur izing deep condit i o n er to restore moisture a n d pliabilit y to the hair. E x a mples: Joico K-Pac R e construc tor (mild), Ap h ogee 2 M in Keratin R e construc tor (mild), Elasta Q p Anti Break age serum, Le K air Cholesterol (moderate ) , M otions CPR(mild/mode rate), Nexxus Emergencee ( m o derate), Nexxus Keraphix ( m o derate), ORS M ayo (mode rate), Affir m 5 n 1, D udley ’s D R C (heav y), Aphogee 2Ste p Treatment (heav y) Us a ge: Protein treatments te m porar ily rebuild damaged h a i r. Frequenc y of use d e p ends on the strength of t h e treatment you are using a n d the level of damage you a re attempting to cor rec t. Water-Based M oistur izers a re great produc ts for boosti n g moisture levels on the g o. These produc ts always co nt ain water as the first i n gredient. Always selec t water-based moistur izer p ro duc ts that do not contain m i n eral oil or petrolatum. Le ave -I n Conditioners also

wor k we l l a s wate r- b a s e d moistur i ze r s. E x a m p l e s : Luster ’s S - Cu r l, O y i n’s G re g and Fra n k J u i ce s, M o s t B ra i d Sprays, Ca nt u S h e a B u t te r Break Cu re, Ca nt u S h e a Butter G row St ro n g, E l a s t a QP M an g o B u t te r, Ca nt u S h e a Butter Le ave I n Co n d i t i o n e r, Profec ti v M e g a G row t h , Profec ti v H e a l t hy E n d s. Usage: Wate r- b a s e d m o i s t u rizers ca n b e u s e d a s o f te n as desire d to k e e p t h e h a i r supple t h ro u g h o u t t h e d ay. Natural O i l s a n d B u t te r s. I n a healthy h a i r c a re re gi m e n , natural o i l s a n d b u t te r s should b e u s e d fo r s e a l i n g in water- b a s e d m o i s t u r i ze r s and for h e l p i n g i m p rove t h e shine an d p l i a b i l i t y o f t h e hair. Exa m p l e s : Co co n u t o i l, Olive oi l, Al m o n d o i l, J o j o b a oil, Swe e t Al m o n d o i l, Ca r ro t oil, Tea Tre e O i l, Ca s to r O i l, Vatik a O i l, a n d Am l a O i l.

Pro te c t i ve St y l i n g H a i r To o l s & Te c h n i q u e s. Wi d e a n d m e d i u m - to o t h e d s e a ml e s s co m b s B o a r o r s o f t bristle brush- (optional) H a i r p i n s / c l i p s R o l l e r s S at i n S c a r f, B o n n e t, a n d / o r S at i n Pi l l owc a s e s Pl a s t i c S h owe r Ca p s fo r d e e p co n d i t i o ni n g Pa i r o f s h e a r s H e at p ro te c t a nt / ce ra m i c f l at i ro n ( o p t i o n a l ) A p ro te c t i ve s t y l e i s a ny s t y l e t h at re d u ce s h a i r m a n i p u l at i o n / co m b i n g, c u t s b a c k o n h e at u s e, o r keeps the hair up and off of t h e s h o u l d e r s. K e e p i n g t h e e n d s p ro te c te d f ro m t h e e l e m e nt s i s a b s o l u te l y e s s e nt i a l fo r f a s te r h a i r h e a l t h a n d grow t h . B u n s, s p i ra l c u r l s, ro l l e r s e t s, b ra i d s, p u f fs, t w i s to u t s, a n d c l i p p e d u p / u p d o s t y l e s a re a l l ex a m p l e s o f p o p u l a r p ro te c t i ve s t y l e s. R e m e m b e r to s t y l e yo u r h a i r h e at- f re e w h e n p o s s i b l e a n d l i m i t re g u l a r h e at s t y l i n g to o n ce a we e k o r l e s s.


Makeup by Tiffany Roysden Photography by Evita Castine

LENGTH PLANNING GUIDE FOR BLACK HAIR

by Au d r e y S i v a s o t h y

You’ve made up in your mind that you will take better care of your hair and grow it out this year! Great! Now, what can you expect on your growing journey? In the black community, the idea that black hair can grow long without special or magical genetic endowments is still novel for some. But today, with better product choices available to us and more manufacturers taking an interest in healthy black hair, our hair growth prospects have changed tremendously.

health, EVERYONE can grow long hair: no growth creams, oils, ointments, or magic pills needed. The time it takes to get to a particular hair length depends on your monthly hair growth rate, the time span each follicle is programmed to grow hair, and your ability to retain the length you grow each month. Trimming rates will always influence the time it takes for you to reach individual length milestones. What Can You Expect?

Many factors determine who can grow long hair and how long they can grow it. The truth is, barring any serious medical conditions and given a clean bill of

Black hair grows about a half an inch, or slightly less, each month for a total of 4-6 inches in one year. Your genetics, age, and time of year all influence how close to


this average you will get each month. You will find that

crease. It generally takes anywhere from 6 to15 months

changes in the look, thickness, and feel of the hair come

of great hair care from shoulder length to reach this point.

in the first 3-4 months of your hair journey and usually occur before length is perceived.

Bra Strap Length: Bra strap length is usually reached 9 - 18 months after

Shoulder Length:

the APL milestone, and can be reached in about 3 short

From a bald shave or fade, it should take you about 2 to 2

years after a clean shave.

½ years to reach shoulder length with great hair care.

Midback/Waist: From a clean shave, it takes about 3 to 4+ years of

Armpit Length:

healthy hair care to reach midback length (between

Armpit (APL) or Arm crease length is the length along the

brastrap and waistlength), and often another six months to

back defined by an imaginary line from arm crease to arm

a year to reach waist length.


balancing by Au d r e y S i v a s o t h y

protein & moisture Hair b re a k a g e i s by f a r t h e m o t her of all black hair complaints. Prod u c t s h i t t h e m a r k e t a l l t h e time claiming to swif tly repair break age and grow o u r h a i r to a m a z i n g l engths. Unfor tunately, many of these

Hair break age is simply the result of an imbalance of t wo impor tant forces within the hair fiber : protein and moisture. Protein is what gives the hair its strength and struc ture. O ur hair is about 70-80% keratin protein by composition. These proteins bind to the hair cuticle and help temporar ily rebuild weakened areas.

Hair by Andrea Chambers

We t H a i r As s e s s m e nt O n e m e t h o d t h at wo r k s we l l fo r b re a k a g e d i a gn o s i s i s we t a s s e s s m e nt. Wh e n we t h a i r i s h e a l t hy, i t w i l l n o t b re a k u n d e r n o r m a l co m b i n g co nd i t i o n s. I f h a i r b re a k s i n i t s we t s t ate, t h e m a n n e r in w h i c h t h e b re a k a g e o cc u r s

Photography by Rob Franklin

Pro te i n - b a s e d p ro d u c t s re i nfo rce t h e h a i r s h a f t, a n d h e l p i t re m a i n s t ro n g e n o u g h to f i g ht b re a k a g e. O u r h a i r a l s o n e e d s wate r ( m o i s t u re ) to m a i nt a i n i t s e l a s t i c i t y, o r a b i l i t y to s t re tc h . Wh e n t h e h a i r ’s m o i s t u re l e ve l s d i p d a n g e ro u s l y l ow, t h e f i b e r re a c t s by f ray i n g, c ra c ki n g, a n d s p l i t t i n g. Th i s d r y, p a rc h e d h a i r s t ate a l ways l e a d s to c h ro n i c b re a k a g e i f l e f t u nt re ate d.

Makeup by Jamie Dorman

prod u c t s f a i l at g e t t i n g to t h e core of the break age problem.


Once your hair is balanced and the breakage has ceased, you must maintain the balance by strategically rotating in your moisture and proteinbased products. Don’t wait for breakage to act! Pay attention to your hair’s cues.

te l l s yo u how the break age s h o u l d be treated to regain t h e p ro p er balance. Hair i s we t a ssessed by simply to u c h - testing it or by gently m ov i n g a comb through it. Wet As s essment Hair B re a k a g e Break D own I f your we t h a i r : St re tc h e s slightly and re t u r n s to its or iginal length w i t h o u t break ing: your hair i s b a l a n ced. St re tc h e s a little more than n o r m a l then breaks: more p ro te i n conditioning is n e e d e d. St re tc h e s excessively with n o b re a k age: condition with p ro te i n . Fe e l s weak , gummy, mushy, o r l i m p : protein conditioning i s re q u i red

D oes not stre tc h , a n d simply snap s o r b re a k s : increase you r m o i s t u re d e e p conditionin g. Feels rough , d r y, t a n g l y, br ittle: more m o i s t u re i s required. Break age fro m To o M u c h Protein. Ha i r t h at b re a k s with ver y lit t l e te n s i o n o r stretching i s a s i gn o f a n overabunda n ce o f p ro te i n , and a defici e n c y o f m o i s t u re. To cor rec t t h i s m o i s t u re d e f icienc y, adop t a s i m p l e m o i stur izing dee p co n d i t i o ning regimen . D e e p co n d i t i o n your hair wi t h a t h i c k , m o i stur izing dee p co n d i t i o n e r fo r 30-45 minute s t w i ce a we e k . Apply a wate r- b a s e d m o i stur izer to yo u r h a i r, co n ce ntrating on th e e n d s d a i l y a s needed. For gre at m o i s t u re boosting pro d u c t s, c h e c k out the follow i n g hyd rating moisture l i n e s : Cre m e

o f N at u re, H e r b a l E s s e n ce s, N ex x u s, a n d K e n ra , a n d K e ra Ca re. B re a k a g e f ro m To o M u c h M o i s t u re. Wh e n t h e h a i r h a s b e e n ove rco n d i t i o n e d, i t b e co m e s we a k , l i m p a n d s p o n g y. I t s l ow s t r u c t u ra l p ro te i n co nte nt w i l l a l ways c a u s e i t to s t re tc h f i r s t t h e n b re a k . M o i s t u re - i n d u ce d h a i r b re a k a g e i s t y p i c a l l y co r re c te d i n o n e p ro te i n d e e p co n d i t i o n i n g s e s s i o n . J o i co a n d Ap h o g e e a re t wo gre at p ro te i n re co n s t r u c t i n g l i n e s to c h e c k o u t.

KeraCare Humecto Creme Conditioner


B rian perry Ce l e b r i t y h a i r s t ylist Br ian Per r y is not your t ypical st ylist. He holds a B.A. in B u s i n e s s Ad m i n istration with a minor in Finance AND a M aster ’s D egree in Finan ce. B r i a n a l s o h o l d s a M aster Color ist D egree, Advance M aster Haircutting D egree, a n d a D i ve r s e C h e m i cal Straightening D egree from Wor ld R enowned Farouk Systems U S A U n i ve r s i t y. There is no hair t ype or tex ture that he can’t or won’t wor k with . I n s h o r t… B r i a n c a n handle his business and your hair with no trouble at all.

H i s s a l o n , B. Pe r r y I nte r n at i o n a l, o p e n e d n e a r l y a ye a r a g o i n Lo s An g e l e s. Am a z i n g l y, B r i a n o p e n e d t h e s h o p w i t h h i s ow n m o n e y a n d i s i n d e b t to n o o n e. H e’s co m e a l o n g way f ro m d o i n g h i s co u s i n s’ p o nyt a i l s i n t h e b a s e m e nt fo r $ 1 w h e n h e wa s i n m i d d l e s c h o o l… LO L .

Cele b r i t y h ai r s t y l i s t B r i a n Pe r r y has come a long way f ro m d o i n g h i s co u s i ns’ ponytails in the b a s e m e nt fo r $ 1

At 1 6 , B r i a n d i d h i s f i r s t h a i r s h ow w i t h D av i d H u m p h r i e s, t h e c re ato r o f H a i r Wa r s. D u r i n g h i s s e n i o r ye a r i n h i g h s c h o o l B r i a n a p p ro a c h e d M r. L i t t l e, a n o t h e r D e t ro i t s t y l i s t, w h o b e c a m e h i s m e ntor. M r. L i t t l e g o t h i m i nto h a i r s h ows a n d o n T V. . . w h ate ve r M r. L i t t l e d i d h e wa s t h e re a s h i s p ro té g é.


S i n ce t h at time Br ian’s wor k e d in B ever ly H ills, We s t H o lly wood, and on M e l ro s e. He’s also appeared o n Ta b at ha’s S alon Takeover. Th o u g h he’s wor ked with a n i m p ressive number of ce l e b r i t i es, Br ian’s favori te c l i e nts are his regular gi r l s. They are the ones that m a k e h i m feel proud to be a s t y l i s t. Hair st ylin g is his m i n i s t r y and he’s inspired by h i s c l ients. Giving them h i g h e r s elf- esteem dr ives h i m . B r i an gives back to t h e co m munit y by wor k ing w i t h a b attered womens’ s h e l te r. Once a month they s e n d s o meone down to his s h o p a n d he gives her a total m a k e over. M r. Pe r r y ’s craz y sense of h u m o r will when you over r i ght away. He played q u i te t h e joke on me when

I walked into t h e s a l o n look ing for h i m . B r i a n h a s an ex tensive k n ow l e d g e o f haircare and h e’s a b s o l u te l y 100% real. Th i s m a n d o e s not bite his to n g u e… a n d i f he steps on a fe w o f yo u r toes…well, n ex t t i m e we a r steel toed b o o t s. SHM: Is there a nyo n e t h at you would l i k e to wo r k w i t h whom you h ave n’t ye t ? BP: K at y Pe r r y, K e l l y R owland, an d p ro m i s i n g u p and coming a r t i s t s. SHM: What a re t h re e o f yo u r favor ite st y l i n g p ro d u c t s r ight now a n d w hy ? BP: Farouk R oya l Tre at m e nt by CHI Pear l Co m p l ex [ l i g htweight leave - i n t re at m e nt ] , defr izzing, w h i te t r u f f l e a n d pear l, exclu s i ve, h i g h e n d, tames, smoo t h e s, a n d s i l k y.

Fa ro u k R oya l Tre at m e nt by C H I U l t i m ate Co nt ro l [ f a s td r y i n g vo l u m e s h a p i n g s p ray ] a l i g ht fe at h e r we i g ht h a i r s p ray, h i g h s h i n e s o f t h o l d, w h i te t r u f f l e a n d p e a r l. C H I Tw i s te d Fa b r i c Fi n i s h i n g Pa s te - s t y l i n g p a s te, n o o i l, s i l k f i b e r s i n i t, vo l u m e a n d s p i k e, n at u ra l s h e e n , n o b e e s wa x y a r t i f i c i a l s h e e n , c a n co m b i t o u t w i t h n o p ro b l e m , d o n’t h ave to s h a m p o o i t o u t l i k e a l o t o f p ro d u c t s.


B P: Love them. The CHI E nv i ro Amer ican Smoothing Tre at ment is 100% for malde hyd e free. S H M : What CHI produc ts are ava i l able to prevent heat d a m age? B P: CHI 44 I ron Guard your 1 s t a nd foremost protec tion. St a r t by using a hydrating s h a m poo and conditioner. S p ray CHI 44 I ron Guard on b e fo re you blow dr y. I t has 4 4 d i fferent ceramic ingre d i e nt s (the same ceramic i n t h e irons). Also, use a s e r u m like the Pear l Complex ( t h e white truffle ac ts as a s h i e l d). S H M : What is most/least d a m aging to relaxed hair? B l ow dr yer, hard bonnet

dr yer, flat i ro n , c u r l i n g i ro n , hot rolle r s, h o t co m b ? BP: I t ’s n o t t h e u te n s i l. . . i t s the perso n . I t ’s t h e t ra i ning behin d t h e p e r s o n . St ay away fro m h o t i ro n s a n d h o t rollers. M ay b e o n ce a we e k , in moderat i o n . Us e a s at i n bonnet. SHM: Wh at i s m o s t / l e a s t damagin g to n at u ra l h a i r ? Blow dr ye r, h a rd b o n n e t dr yer, flat i ro n , c u r l i n g i ro n , hot rolle r s, h o t co m b ? BP: Heat t ra i n i n g i s n o t h e at damage. H a i r h a s m e m o r y. Each per s o n’s h a i r h a s a different “m e m o r y ” a n d i t does beco m e t ra i n e d a f te r awhile. I t b e co m e s e a s i e r to straighte n a f te r aw h i l e. SHM: Wh at i s t h e b e s t t h i n g a woman c a n d o to c a re fo r relaxed h a i r ?

B P: Fi n d i t i n yo u r b u d g e t to g o v i s i t a s t y l i s t at l e a s t o n ce e ve r y o t h e r m o nt h . H e s t ro n g l y re co m m e n d s t h e y g e t t h e i r re l a xe r to u c h u p s o r co l o r d o n e. Eve n t h e b e a u t y s c h o o l s. S H M : Wh at i s t h e b e s t t h i n g a wo m a n c a n d o to c a re fo r n at u ra l h a i r ? B P: S a m e s ce n a r i o, e ve r y o t h e r m o nt h to g e t co n d it i o n i n g a n d t r i m s.

Photography by Deseri Rosa

S H M : How do you feel a b o u t the Brazilian Keratin Tre at ments?


S H M : What are some hairs t y l i n g “don’ts”? B P: D o n’t chemically treat yo u r h a i r at home. A trained s t y l i s t k nows how to use the c h e m i c a ls and can assess yo u r h a i r. He uses 4 diffe re nt s t rengths of relaxer. Fo r s e n s itive scalp he uses o n e w i t h sulfur to combat d r y s c a l p. S ensitive scalp, t hy ro i d problems - these t h i n g s a ffec t your hair. That h a ir c a n grow out weaker a n d p u t t ing chemicals can we a k e n i t fur ther. S H M : What is the best way to t a m e wild cur ls? B P: Cu r l y hair needs the p ro p e r balance of moisture. C H I Cu r l Preser ve System. G re e n p ack aging, shampoo, t re at m e nt, leave -in, low pH s ys te m . Use all the produc ts i n s y n c. I t has a tiny bit of p ro te i n .

SHM: D o you h ave a ny g o a l s set for yourse l f t h at yo u a re yet to reach? BP: I really fe e l r i g ht n ow I haven’t even b e g u n to g o where I want to g o. I s e e myself movin g m o re s o a s a businessman. St i l l b e i n g o n e of the top st y l i s t s. . . b u t m o re so into the bu s i n e s s a s p e c t. Look in the ne a r f u t u re fo r B. Per r y I nter n at i o n a l M i a m i and a televisi o n p ro j e c t.


Counteracting the

H arsh E ffects S ulfate

S hampoos

Hair by Andrea Chambers

by Audrey Sivasothy

I f you’ve ever used a shampoo, you’ve used sul-

Photography by Deseri Rosa

Makeup by Dari A. So

of

from the hair shaf t. But increasingly, sulfate -

fates in your hair. These shampoo cleansing ingredients are for mulated to quick ly remove dir t, oils, hair produc ts, and other impur ities

based shampoo cleansers have gotten bad press in the hair care wor ld. Why?

1 . ) Pro te c t Yo u r Tre s s e s w i t h a Pre - S h a m p o o Tre at m e nt. To p re ve nt d r y n e s s f ro m s u lf ate s, a p p l y a co n d i t i o n e r, o i l, o r a co m b i n at i o n o f t h o s e p ro d u c t s to t h e h a i r fo r a b o u t 1 5 - 2 0 m i n u te s b e fo re yo u r wa s h . Th e p re t re at m e nt s o f te n s t h e h a i r a n d p rov i d e s a b a r r i e r to s u lf ate s d u r i n g th e s h a m p o o i n g p ro ce s s. 2 . ) D i l u te Yo u r S h a m p o o. D i l u t i n g yo u r s u l f ate


Blac k h a i r n e e d s m o i s t u re to resist break age. I ts natural oils help the hair maint a i n i t s i nte r n a l m o i s t u re balance. While sulfates are excellent cleansers, they s t r i p b l a c k h a i r o f i t s n at u ral moisture and protec tive oils with ever y use. Whil e i t i s b e s t to u s e s u l f ate - free cleansers on black hair, finding a sulfate -free sham p o o c a n b e c h a l l e n gi n g.

s h a m poo with water, addit i o n a l oil, or even condit i o n e r can minimize the h a r s h impac t of sulfates on yo u r hair. Pour the diluted s h a m poo mix ture over yo u r wet hair and lather as n o r m al for a gentler cleansi n g exper ience. 3 . ) R estore Your Hair ’s M o i s ture with D eep Co n d itioning. D eep condit i o n i ng the hair af ter using a s u l f ate -based cleanser rein-

troduce s m o i s t u re to yo u r strands. Co n d i t i o n i n g t h e hair for 1 5 - 2 0 m i n u te s a l s o adds ne e d e d o i l s, ce ra m i d e s, and lipid s to t h e h a i r f i b e r to prevent u n n e ce s s a r y m o i sture los s. 4.) S eek O u t S u l f ate a l te rnatives. Pro d u c t m a n u f a c turers a re l i s te n i n g to co ncer ned co n s u m e r s w h o a re demand i n g m o re f ro m t h e i r hair pro d u c t s. Ab a n d o n i n g the use o f s u l f ate s i n h a i r

shampoos is just one of the l ate s t t re n d s i n h e a l t hy h a i r c a re. M o re a n d m o re s u l f ate f re e fo r m u l a s a re m a k i n g i t to t h e m a r k e t. To d ay ’s p o p u l a r s u l f ate f re e l i n e s i n c l u d e : Au b re y O rg a n i c s, B u r t ’s B e e s, J A S O N N at u ra l s, L’O re a l, K e n ra , S i l k E le m e nt s a m o n g m a ny o t h e r s.


Techniques


P rotective S tyling b y Audrey Sivasothy

Though tex tured hair of ten looks strong and tough, it is really quite fragile. D espite its fragilit y, we of ten challenge and subjec t our tresses to a var iet y of cosmetic treatments on the quest for beaut y.

We re l a x i t, s h a m p o o i t, co l o r it, co m b i t, s e w i t, s l i c k i t, p i c k it and f l u f f i t i nto p l a ce. B u t w h at does t h i s ex t re m e h a n d l i n g m e a n for o u r t re s s e s ? B re a k a g e.


Types of P rotective Styles I n addition to general pro tec tive handling and heat reduc tion, wear ing the hair i n “protec tive st yles” keeps t he ends and length of the h air protec ted from rubbing, s plitting, and damage from t he environment. You can k eep your st yles protec t i ve in a var iet y of ways. H air that falls shor ter than s houlder length is naturally p rotec tive. St yles like buns, tucked s t yles, wigs, wraps, and f ull sew-in weaves are a lso protec tive of the hair f i ber because a considera ble amount of the hair ’s l ength is covered. St yles like b raids, locs, braidouts, t wisto uts, t wists, and wash-andg os, are protec tive because t hey cut dow n on day-to - day s t yling and manipulation.

M ois t u r i z i n g t h e h a i r w i t h a wate r- b a s e d m o i s t u r i ze r, a n d follow i n g t h e m o i s t u re w i t h an oi l o r b u t te r p ro d u c t s e a l daily, a d d s f u r t h e r p ro te c tion to b l a c k t re s s e s. Sw i tc h up yo u r p ro te c t i ve s t y l i n g regim e n o cc a s i o n a l l y. Wear i n g t h e h a i r i n d i fferent s t y l e s w i l l n o t o n l y boos t yo u r co n f i d e n ce, b u t will p ro te c t yo u r h a i r f ro m chron i c d a m a g e to a re a s t h at are co n s i s te nt l y p u l l e d b a c k into a ce r t a i n p o s i t i o n .

Give protective styling a try a few days each week and see the difference it makes for your hair!

Prote c t i ve s t y l i n g i s a t r i e d and t r u e m e t h o d fo r ra p i d l y incre a s i n g yo u r h a i r ’s l e n g t h and h e a l t h . Wh i l e p ro te c t i ve st ylin g i s n o t a re q u i re m e nt for h a i r grow t h , t h e s e s t y l e s can h e l p a n x i o u s growe r s g e t past co m m o n grow t h o b s t acles l i k e t h e s h o u l d e r s.

O u r c lothing inflic ts the final a s s a u l t u p o n o u r t re s s e s - - co t to n s h i r t s, blouses, and jackets ru b a g a i n s t o u r h a i r l e a d i n g to d r y n e s s a n d c hronic break age at the e n d s. R e d u c i n g h a i r s t y l i n g m a n i p ul at i o n and heat use can wor k wo n d e r s fo r i m p rov i n g t h e h e a l t h o f o u r d elicate strands.


g n i z i r u t s i o M g n i l a e & S

this! y r T ? s d n e rittle b y r d m o r f Suffering

R

E TAIN…. RE TAIN… RE TAIN should be your new mantra af ter yo u finish readi ng this i s s u e. R etaining the hair t h at grows out of your scalp i s e ssential to growing long h e a lthy hair. One thing to k e e p in mind is that the e n d s of your hair are the o l d est par t of the strands. Th e ends have the tendenc y to b ecome dr y and br ittle

if they are n’t m o i s t u r i ze d o n a regula r b a s i s. How is i t d o n e ? M oist u r i z i n g a n d s e a l i n g is a ve r y s i m p l e p ro ce s s. Star ti n g w i t h we t o r d r y hair, s e c t i o n yo u r h a i r a n d apply yo u r f avo r i te m o i s t u rizer to e a c h s e c t i o n , p ay i n g close at te nt i o n to t h e e n d s. A ver y p o p u l a r m o i s t u r i ze r is Elas t a Q P M a n g o B u t te r. S ealin g i s t h e ex a c t s a m e proce s s, exce p t i t s d o n e with o i l. Th e re a re m a ny a var ie t y o f o i l s yo u c a n

u s e to s e a l : co co n u t o i l, o l i ve o i l, a rg a n o i l, a n d avo c a d o o i l a re s e ve ra l g o o d c h o i ce s. H ow o f te n s h o u l d I b e m o i s t u r i z i n g a n d se a l i n g ? Fre q u e n c y va r i e s f ro m p e r s o n to p e r s o n . I t d e p e n d s o n yo u r h a i r t y p e, w h e t h e r yo u h ave re l a xe d a n d / o r d ye d h a i r, o r i f yo u r h a i r i s c h e m i c a l f re e. Yo u co u l d m o i s t u r i ze a n d s e a l a s o f te n a s e ve r yd ay o r m ay b e j u s t o n ce o r t w i ce a we e k . E x p e r i m e nt to s e e w h at wo r k s b e s t fo r yo u.


1 0 1 g n i h CO - Wa s

BENEFITS: Our h a i r n e e d s m ois t u r e a n d t h i s is a g r e at wa y to get it.

C o - wa s h i n g a l s o i m p a r t s s o f t n e s s and m a ke s h a i r m o r e man a g e a b l e . O f c o u r se a cl e a n s c a l p i s a h e a l t h y s c a l p. T H E P RO C E S S : T her e i s n o o n e wa y t o do i t . Ju s t m a ke s u r e to m a s s a g e i t i n t o your s c a l p a n d s m o o t h it d ow n t h e l e n g th of yo u r h a i r b e for e rinsing it out.

W H AT IT IS:

CO -Wa s h i ng m e a n s Cond i t i o n e r O n l y Wa s h i ng. The te c h n i q u e i nvo l ve s washing yo u r h a i r s o l e l y w i t h conditio n e r‌ ex a c t l y t h e s a me way yo u’d n o r m a l l y wa s h with sham p o o.

either of these conditioners is perfect for co - washing ! W H I C H CO N D I T I O N E R B e c a u s e co -wa s h i n g c a n b e d o n e f re q u e nt l y m o s t p e o p l e te n d to u s e i n ex p e n s i ve co n d i t i o n e r s. F R E Q U E N C Y: I t va r i e s gre at l y f ro m p e r s o n to p e r s o n .


Real Women Real Talk


photobucket. com Photobucke t o f fe r s f re e phooto and v i d e o s h a r i n g.

Photos provided by Long Hair Care Forum M ember : Keisha8185

F otki . com Th i s i s o n e o f t h e m o s t co m mo n l y u s e d o n l i n e p h o to a l b u m s i n t h e o n l i n e co m m u n i t y. Th e b a s i c s e r v i ce i s f re e.


tumblr . com

A fe at u re - r i c h fre e b l o g h o s t i n g p l at fo r m w i t h fu l l y c u s to m i ze a b l e te m p l ate s and social n e t wo r k

D ocument Your Jour ney Sure, yo u h ave a g o a l l e n g t h i n m i n d. B u t re m ember the impo r t a nt t h i n g i s t h e j o u r n e y, n o t t h e d e s t i n ation.


R E laxed vs . natural haircare regimens Staff w r i t te r J o a n n e b re a k s d ow n h e r h a i rc a re regimens for rela xe d a n d n at u ra l h a i r. Le t m e s t a r t o u t by g e t t i n g a fe w t h i n g s c l e a r : I’m c h e a p, a n d I’m l a z y. Th at s a i d, yo u s h o u l d k n ow t h at i f I d o spend a good deal of money o n a ny t h i n g i n my re gi m e n , i t i s m o re t h a n wo r t h t h e m o n e y i n my e s t i m at i o n . As fo r t h e l a z y p a r t ? We l l, I d o n’t l i k e to gi ve mys e l f m o re wo r k t h a n i s a b s o l u te l y n e ce s s a r y, w h i c h m e a n s I b re a k t h i n g s d ow n i nto t h e m o s t s i m p l i s t i c ways p o s s ib l e fo r m e. On e m o re t h i n g ? I h ave n’t b e e n to t h e s a l o n i n ove r 5 ye a r s. Th i s i s a l l D IY. N ow, o n to t h e re s t. . . N at u ra l vs. C h e m i c a l l y p ro ce s s e d h a i r B y n at u ra l, I re a l l y j u s t m ea n t h at I d o n’t p e r m my h a i r. I d o n’t we a r i t i n i t ’s n at u ra l m i xe d u p 3 c / 4 a / 4 b s t ate. O n ce i t g e t s a b i t l o n g e r, I p ro b a b l y w i l l we a r i t, b u t a s fo r r i g ht n ow, t h e f l at i ro n i s my f r i e n d.


R edken produc ts provide the tools you need to strengthen and nour ish your strands

I g o b a c k and for th bet ween re l a xe d and natural ever y fe w ye a r s. I t isn’t some k ind o f s o c i a l or political state m e nt. I just do it because I c a n . I d on’t ever do the “ big c h o p.” M y head is too big for a l l t h at. I just gradually cut t h e p e r m out by snipping an i n c h o r s o each month. I’m f u l l y p e r m-free r ight now. Ai r d r i e d, my hair is at the n a p e o f my neck . Fl at ironed a n d s t re tched, it ’s A PL.

Staple Produ c t s & To o l s :

S o w h at ’s the big differe n ce b e t ween how I handle my h a i r, produc t-wise, in the n at u ra l vs. relaxed state? Th e re re ally isn’t one. Even t h e t i m e it takes is negotiab l e. S o, here’s my general we e k l y regime. (As stated b e fo re, I’m laz y, so some t i m e s I don’t do this as of ten a s I wo u ld like to.)

Elasta QP Si l k Th e r m a l D esign Liqu i d

L’Oreal Ever Pu re S m o o t h Shampoo Neutrogena D a i l y D e e p Conditioner R edken R eal Co nt ro l I nte n s e R enewal Su p e r M o i s t u r i z i n g M ask R edken Smo o t h D ow n B u t te r Treat Condi t i o n e r

R edken Ex tre m e C AT R econstruc t i n g Tre at m e nt Profec tiv M e g a G row t h Ant i Break age St re n g t h e n e r Growth Loti o n M eadowfoa m S e e d O i l Conair hood d r ye r R evlon blow d r ye r

C H I ( o r S a l l y ’s G V P e q u i val e nt ) f l at i ro n * Wh e n I’m re l a x i n g I u s u a l l y u s e Phy to l o gi e Phy to s p e c i f i c R e l a xe r I n d ex 2 , b u t I re ce nt l y t r i e d M i z a n i B u t te r B l e n d s a n d i t l e f t my h a i r tex l a xe d.


H A I R C A R E R E G I M E N S ( cont. )

R E L A X E D V S . N AT U R A L

Wash Day Ste p s fo r R e l a xe d Hair :

L i q u i d. Co m b t h ro u g h a n d a i r d r y o r s i t u n d e r t h e d r ye r.

Neutrogena D a i l y D e e p Conditioner a s co -wa s h . R inse thoro u g h l y.

Fl at i ro n to s m o o t h , t h e n a p p l y Pro fe c t i v M e g a G row t h . As I’ve b e co m e m o re a d e p t at f l at i ro n i n g, i t o n l y takes me about half an hour o r s o to s m o o t h my h a i r w h e n i t ’s re l a xe d.

R edken Ex t re m e C AT fo r 3 - 5 minutes. R i n s e. R edken Smo o t h D ow n B u t te r Treat for 10 m i n u te s, w i t h baggy. R in s e. Towel dr y a n d s p ray d a m p hair with Si l k Th e r m a l D e s i gn


Wa s h Day Steps for Natural Hair: L’O re a l EverPure Smooth S h a m poo N e u t rogena Daily D eep for 1 - 2 m inutes (or however l o n g i t takes me to shower). R i n s e. R e d k e n R eal Control I ntense R e n e wal Super M oistur izing M a s k for 15 minutes, with b a g g y. Towe l dr y and spray damp h a i r with Silk Ther mal D esign L i q u i d. Comb through and a i r d r y or sit under the dr yer. Fl at i ron to straighten, then a p p l y M eadowfoam S eed Oil. I i n c l uded the blow dr yer

in my pro d u c t l i s t b e c a u s e sometime s my ro o t s d o n’t get thoro u g h l y d r i e d, s o I like to have i t h a n d y. (An d sometime s i t ’s to o h o t to b e sitting un d e r a d r ye r ! ) Any way, a s yo u c a n s e e, I take the s a m e a m o u nt if steps w h e t h e r my h a i r is relaxed o r n at u ra l. Admitted l y, i t d o e s t a k e m e longer to f l at i ro n my n at u ra l hair, since I’m a c t u a l l y straighte n i n g a n d n o t j u s t smoothin g i t, b u t i f I i s s u e myself a c h a l l e n g e to g e t i t done in u n d e r 4 5 m i n u te s, I can usual l y s u cce e d. S o there yo u h ave my general s te p s. Eve r y t h i n g is negotia b l e, d e p e n ding on wh at I fe e l l i k e my hair need s at t h e t i m e.

I d e a l l y, I wo u l d d o t h i s 3 4 t i m e s a we e k ( u s i n g t h e C AT o n l y o n ce p e r we e k . ) R e a l i s t i c a l l y, i t ’s m o re l i k e t w i ce a we e k . I ex p e r i m e nt a l o t to s e e w h at wo r k s fo r m e. I h o p e yo u e n j oye d re a d i n g t h i s a n d fo u n d s o m e h e l p f u l h i nt s. Ta k e c a re ! - -J P. S . I d i d n’t d i s cove r t h e m e a d ow fo a m s e e d o i l u nt i l a f te r I s to p p e d p e r m i n g, s o I d o n’t k n ow h ow my re l a xe d h a i r wo u l d re s p o n d to i t. I l ove i t fo r my n at u ra l t re s s e s. I’ve h e a rd t h at yo u c a n m i x i t w i t h c a s to r b e a n o i l a n d i t w i l l b e e ve n m o re g l o r i o u s fo r yo u r h a i r, b u t I h ave n’t t r i e d i t ye t.


Photography by Deseri Rosa

Hair by Andrea Chambers

Makeup by Jamie Dorman

Knowledge is Power


The S cience o f B l a c k H a i r is the ultimate co n s u m e r tex tbook on b l a c k h a i r care. Technic a l l y o r i e nte d and detailed t h ro u g h o u t, this book wa s w r i t te n with the ser i o u s h a i r care consum e r i n m i n d. Hair science, re s e a rc h and testimony co m b i n e in this carefu l l y w r i t te n tex t designe d to ex a m i n e black hair on a d e e p e r level.

Hair by Andrea Chambers

by Audrey Davis-Sivasot hy

Photography by Rob Franklin

The S cience o f B l a c k H a i r : A Comprehen s i ve G u i d e to Tex tured H a i r Ca re

Makeup by Jamie Dorman

Fo u n t a i n o f Knowledge


KNO W L E D G E I S P O WER

MU ST-HAVE BOOKS FOR YOU R LIBRARY

U l t ra B l a c k H a i r G row t h I I : An o t h e r 6 Inches by Cat hy H ows e U l t ra B l a c k H a i r G row t h I I , 2 0 0 0 Ed i t i o n i s t h e u p d ate d s te p - by- s te p m a n u a l to h e l p b l a c k wo m e n c a re fo r t h e i r h a i r a p p ro p r i ate l y. Th e te c hn i q u e s d e f i n e d i n t h e b o o k 1 0 ye a r s a g o s t i l l a p p l y to d ay. U l t ra B l a c k H a i r G row t h I I 2 0 0 0 co nt a i n s a “co m m o n s e n s e” a p p ro a c h to grow i n g b l a c k h a ir. St i l l t h e o n l y p rove n b l a c k h a i r grow th s ys te m fo r ove r 1 0 ye a r s.


A

l l p ro te i n s h ave t h e a b i l i t y to s t re n g t h e n yo u r h a i r to va r y i n g d e gre e s. . . s o m e m o re t h a n o t h e r s. Pro te i n , h owe ve r, c a n d o s o m u c h m o re t h a n t h a n t h at. Th e re a re m a ny d i f fe re nt t y p e s o f p ro te i n s b u t t h e y ' re n o t a l l p ro te i n s a re c re ate d e q u a l. S I L K P R OT E I N - Af te r s i l k p ro te i n d r i e s o n t h e h a i r i t fo r m s a t ra n s p a re nt c r ys t a l l i n e f i l m t h at p ro te c t s t h e h a i r f ro m a l k a l i n e m ate r i a l s i n h a i r p ro du c t s, s o f te n s t h e h a i r, a n d i n c re a s e s e l a s t i c i t y a n d s h i n e. Yo u c a n a d d s i l k p ro te i n to yo u r s h a m p oo o r co n d i t i o n e r. W H E AT P R OT E I N - Wa nt h e a l t hy, s h i ny h a i r ? Tr y w h e at p ro tei n ! I t ' s a s t re n g t h e n i n g A N D m o i s t u r i z i n g p to te i n t h at co nt a i n s b o t h p ro te i n s a n d a m i n o a c i d s. Th e a m i n o a c i d s a re e a s i l y a b s o r b e d by yo u r h a i r, w h i l e t h e p ro te i n s co at t h e ex te r i o r h a i r

P R OT E I N : S T R E N G T H & MOISTURE Pro te i n i s p r i m a r i l y k n ow n fo r strengthening hair. However, protein is also n e e d e d to h e l p yo u r h a i r retain moisture. Look for these ingredients the n ex t t i m e yo u ' re o u t b u y i ng hair produc ts.


s h a f t, holding the amino a c i d s in place. CO L L AGEN – I n shampoos a n d conditioners collagen is k n own for restor ing strength a n d f lexibilit y to the hair as we l l as increasing elasticit y. As a n oral supplement collag e n nour ishes the subcutane o u s t issue in the scalp.

O t h e r proteins include: Ve g e table protein (absor bs e a s i l y into the hair shaf t a n d doesn’t create build-up, l e aves hair shiny) and Animal p ro tein (coats the hair and l e aves build-up).

S ilk P owder 3.3 o z $14 S ilk P eptide ( powder ) 3.3 o z $1 3.71 www. lotioncafters . com L iquid S ilk A mino A cid 1 o z $3.98 4 o z $11.05 H ydroly z ed W heat P rotein 1 o z $5.95 4.5 o z $11.25 www. snowdriftfarm . com H ydroly z ed collagen 2 o z 3.95 4 o z 5.95

Makeup by Tiffany Roysden

OT H ER PR OTEINS

www. newdirectionsaromatics . com

Photography by Deseri Rosa

K E R ATIN - Keratin is what hair i s m a de of. This is the strong e s t protein you will find i n h a ir produc ts. Keratin is a h e av y dut y pro tein that re s t r uc tures damaged hair a n d helps it stay strong and p l i a b le. I n hair produc ts you o f te n see it listed as one of t h e following ingredients: k e rat in or hydrol yzed keratin.


Know The Difference Between... We throw around the terms breaking and shedding or fine and thick everyday. But do you really know what they mean in terms of hair? Knowing the difference could help you create a great haircare regimen...and could quite possibly save your strands from a “Come to Jesus meeting” with the shears...

shedding

what’s normal?

breakage

Shed hair is a strand of hair that has

Shedding is a naturally occurring function of a normal, healthy scalp.

How do you know if your hair is shedding or breaking?

reached the end of its growth cycle and falls from the scalp a teeny, tiny, white bulb attached. If a hair does not have this white bulb attached to it, then it’s not a shed hair. Unfortunately, it’s a broken one. Broken hairs are an indication of damage or abuse to the hair. Shed hairs tend to be much longer in length than broken ones which are normally short pieces of hair. Typically, we naturally shed between 40-120 hairs per day.

Unless you have abnormal amount of shedding it should not be a huge, concern for you. Remember each person is different so what is a normal amount of shedding for you may not be normal for some-

Also, remember that some breakage (read: small amounts) is unavoidable. Your job is to minimize breakage by treating your hair like the finest silk.


fine vs. thick No, this isn’t some new Coke vs. Pepsi battle...nor is it a Battle of the Video Vixens. Oftentimes the terms fine hair and thick hair are used incorrectly.

fine hair

Thick hair

Fine hair is often used to describe someone whose hair is thin and less dense than the norm.

Thicker hair usually has more and tighter cuticle layers.

Fine hair really refers to strands that have fewer cuticle layers, thus, the strand itself is thinner than the norm. Someone can have a large amount of fine strands (high density) which makes it look like they have “thick” hair. Or they can have a small amount of fine strands (low density) with the result being “thin” hair. It’s also possible to fall right in the middle and have medium density.

Thick strands, also referred to as coarse, have a larger diameter than fine strands. Simply put…they’re bigger (and stronger) than fine strands. Someone can have a large amount of thick/coarse strands (high density) which makes it look like they have “thick” hair. Or they can have a small amount of thick/coarse strands (low density) with the result being “thin” hair. Again, it’s also possible to fall right in the middle and have medium density.


Makeup by Jamie Dorman Hair by Andrea Chambers seems to get any longer. I ts not growing”?. M ore than likely neither of those statements is true…or at least not completely accurate. Your hair grows unless you’re sick or dead.

The ave ra g e p e r s o n’s h a i r grows ½ a n i n c h p e r m o nt h … rega rd l e s s o f ra ce, e t hnicit y, m a l e, o r fe m a l e. That ’s a to t a l o f 6 i n c h e s a year ! S o w hy d o e s n’t yo u r hair e ve r s e e m to g e t l o n g e r ? The a n s we r i s R E T E N T I O N . You h ave m o re co nt ro l ove r rete nt i o n t h a n yo u d o ove r hair grow t h . Th e f a c t o f t h e matte r i s t h at m a ny wo m e n strug g l e to re t a i n t h e h a i r they grow o u t o f t h e i r s c a l p s. PR O B L E M : To o m u c h h e at. Gir l p u t t h e b l owd r ye r, f l at

i ro n , c u r l i n g i ro n d ow n ! Tr y l i m i t i n g h e at u s e to o n ce a we e k . P R O B L E M : Ab u s i n g c h e mi c a l s ( h a i r co l o r, re l a xe r s ) . Tr y s t re tc h i n g yo u r re l a xe r s l o n g e r. I t ’s n o t n e ce s s a r y to re l a x e ve r y 6 we e k s. I n s te a d wa i t u nt i l yo u h ave at l e a s t 1 – 1 . 5 i n c h e s o f n e w grow t h to re l a x . B y d o i n g t h i s yo u l e s s e n t h e l i k e l i h oo d o f ove rl a p p i n g re l a xe r o nto p re v io u s l y re l a xe d h a i r ( c a u s i n g ove r p ro ce s s i n g ) . Th e e n d re s u l t i s t h i c k e r, f u l l e r h a i r.

Photography by Deseri Rosa

growth vs . retention

Have you ever said “M y hair never grows” or “Her hair never


Tr y using a semi-per man e nt color instead of per man e nt colors, especially if you h ave a relaxer. D ouble -pro ce s sing (2 chemicals on one h e a d of hair) of ten leads to b re ak age. P R OBLEM: Ends of hair r u b bing against clothes. O n ce your hair reaches s h o ulder length it tends to r u b up against your should e r s. M any of t he fabr ics we wear cause damage to o u r hair (cottons, wools, e tc. ). Tr y wear ing your hair i n p rotec tive st yles, such a s p onytails and buns, until i t re aches beyond your s h o ulders. P R OBLEM: R ough handling. Tre at your hair like fine silk . Al ways comb it gently from t i p to root (the bottom up). Co mbing it the opposite way c a n lead to break age.

PR OBLE M : I m p ro p e r s t y l i n g tools. B ro k e n co m b s, p l a s t i c brushes, h e at s t y l i n g to o l s. PR OBLE M : Low q u a l i t y p ro duc ts. M i n e ra l o i l a n d p e t ro latum ( p e t ro l e u m ) a re n o to r iously b a d fo r h a i r. Th e y block m o i s t u re f ro m g e t t i n g into the h a i r a n d c a n l e ave hair fee l i n g d r y a n d gre a s y at the s a m e t i m e. PR OBLE M : D i r t y s c a l p and hai r. A c l e a n s c a l p i s a healthy s c a l p. Pl e a s e, please, p l e a s e wa s h yo u r hair at l e a s t o n ce a we e k . PR OBLE M : L a c k o f Pro te i n . Hair is m a d e o f p ro te i n . Daily st y l i n g w i t h co m b s and bru s h e s, h e at s t y l i n g tools, t h e c l i m ate o u td o o r s can cau s e c h i p s a n d c h i n k s in the h a i r s h a f t s o u te r layer o f p ro te i n . I t s i m p o rtant to fo r t i f y yo u r h a i r w i t h

re g u l a r d o e s o f p ro te i n . N ex x u s K e ra p H i x a n d Ap h o g e e 2 M i n u te K e rat i n R e co n s t r u c to r a re t wo gre at co n d i t i o n e r s t h at c a n b e u s e d we e k l y. Fo r m o re s e r i o u s c a s e s, Ap h o g e e’s 2 Ste p Pro te i n Tre at m e nt c a n b e u s e d. B u t re m e m b e r to fo l l ow u p w i t h a d e e p l y m o i s t u r i z i n g co n d i t i o n e r. P R O B L E M : L a c k o f M o i s t u re. O u r h a i r te n d s to b e o n t h e d r y s i d e. A fe w ways to co m b at t h i s a re to d e e p co n d i t i o n we e k l y, m o i s t u ri ze & s e a l, o r b a g g y t h e h a i r. S o m e t i m e s o u r h a i r ’s p o ro si t y i s o u t o f wa c k . I f yo u r h a i r i s to o p o ro u s m o i st u re e s c a p e s q u i c k l y. I f i t ’s n o t p o ro u s e n o u g h m o i st u re c a n’t g e t i nto i t e a s i l y. A g o o d p ro d u c t to u s e to e q u a l i ze yo u r p o ro s i t y i s R o u x Po ro s i t y Co nt ro l.


SILICONES: GOOD GUYS OR BAD GUYS? Silicones o f te n g e t a b a d ra p. Yo u’ l l o f te n h e a r t h at you should stee r c l e a r o f t h e m at a l l co s t s. I f n o t, t h e co nse quences co u l d b e d i re. B u t d o s i l i co n e s d e s e r ve s u c h a bad reputation ? Wh at ’s t h e b i g g e s t p ro b l e m w i t h s i l i co nes? How do you co m b at t h at i s s u e ? S h o u l d yo u r i s k i t ?


Silicones are hydrophobic chemicals commonly used in hair produc ts. Basically they ’re used to provide slip

*makes detangling and combing easier, keeps static down, and prevents break age by smoothing down the hair). Silicones are also used as sealants.

S o are they good or bad? There’s no easy answer to that question: * People either love them or hate them. * The big issue is that they aren’t water-soluble so they seal moisture out and cause build-up. * Typically all that ’s needed is a good clar ifying shampoo to remove the build up.

The only real answer is: TRIAL & ERR OR. D on’t be afraid to tr y shampoos and conditioners with silicones in them. Your hair may love them.


what is the purpose of CONDITIONER? Th e wo rd “co n d i t i o n i n g” b a s i c a l l y m e a n s at te m p t i n g to re s to re o r m a i nt a i n t h e h a i r ’s s t re n g t h s o t h at i t c a n w i t h s t a n d t h e e f fe c t s o f co m b i n g, b r u s h i n g, s h a m p o o i n g, we at h e r, a n d c h e m i c a l t re at m e nt s ( to s o m e ex te nt ) . Th e g o a l s o f co n d i t i o n i n g a re : • M a k i n g i t e a s i e r to co m b yo u r h a i r ( we t o r d r y )

Photography by Rob Franklin

Hair by Andrea Chambers

Makeup by Jamie Dorman

• M i n i m i ze h a i r l o s s d u r i n g co m b i n g ; • M i n i m i ze p o ro s i t y • E l i m i n ate s t at i c e l e c t r i c i t y ; • I m p a r t a s o f t a n d s i l k y fe e l ; • I m p a r t ex t ra s h e e n • I m p rove b o d y ( gi ve t h e h a i r m ove m e nt a n d b o u n ce… i n o t h e r wo rd s S WA N G ) • B e t te r m a n a g e a b i l i t y K e e p i n m i n d t h at d i f fe re nt h a i r t y p e s / tex t u re s h ave d i f fe re nt co nd i t i o n i n g n e e d s. Co n d i t i o n e r s t h at co nt a i n l a rg e a m o u nt s o f p ro te i n s, s u c h a s re co n s t r u c to r s, s h o u l d b e u s e d o n f i n e, l i m p h a i r, d a m a g e d h a i r, o r c h e m i c a l l y t re ate d h a i r. Crè m e co n d i t i o n e r s a n d m o i s t u r i ze r s t h at co nt a i n h u m e c t a nt s a n d s o f te n i n g a g e nt s, s h o u l d b e u s e d o n m e d i u m to co a r s e h a i r o r h a i r t h at i s ve r y d r y.

To a c h i e ve m a x i m u m re s u l t s conditioners must penetrate deep into the co r tex o f t h e h a i r. Th i s o ccurs only under one or a combination of the fo l l ow i n g c i rc u m s t a n ce s : heat, time, and an elevated pH level.


V I TA M I N S & SUPPLEMENTS FOR HAIR Th e re are many vitamins and sup p l e m e nts that will aid in healthy h a i r growth. Listed below are a fe w o f them: Vi t a m i n A St i m u l ates hair growth and pro v i d e s nutr ients to your hair ’s roots. Vi t a m in B12 St i m u l ates hair growth, counterac ts h a i r l o ss B i o t i n ( Vitamin H) St i m u l ates hair growth, countera c t s h air loss. Can cause breako u t s s o its best to include Vitamin C s u p plements. S i l i c a – for stronger hair. Opt for Ja r ro S il, BioSil or Eidon’s liquid silica H a i r, S k in, and Nails Vitamins – Fu t u rebiotics or Countr y Life

ME THYLSULFONYLME THANE.. . t h at ’s a m o u t h f u l i s n’t i t ? Th at ’s w hy we j u s t c a l l i t M S M . This sulfur is said to lengthen yo u r h a i r ’s grow t h p h a s e. J a r row Fo r m u l a’s p owd e re d version is a great option. Th e p owd e re d fo r m i s b i t te r b u t t h e t a s te c a n b e d i s g u i s e d by putting the powder in orange o r c ra n gra p e j u i ce.


As the Editor-I n- Chief this i s t h e m o s t i m p o r t a nt a r t i c l e i n t h i s issue. I strongly believe i n t h e “ E a c h O n e Te a c h O n e” p h il o s ophy. This entire magaz i n e i s d e d i c ate d to t h at p r i n c ip l e. I want to share as muc h o f my k n ow l e d g e a s I c a n w i t h o t her Black women…wheth e r t h at k n ow l e d g e i s h ow to grow h e althy, long hair or a heal t hy b u s i n e s s w i t h l o n g e v i t y.

NURTURE YOUR ENTREPRENEURIAL

S p ir i t

Afr ic a n Am e r i c a n b u y i n g powe r i s $ 9 1 3 b i l l i o n d o l l a r s. B y th e ye a r 2 0 1 3 B l a c k buyin g p owe r w i l l re a c h 1 . 2 tr illi o n d o l l a r s. Cu r re nt l y, Afr ic a n Am e r i c a n wo m e n spen d 8 0 % m o re o n co smeti c s a n n u a l l y a n d n e a r l y t wice a s m u c h o n s k i n c a re prod u c t s t h a n g e n e ra l mar k e t wo m e n d o a n n u a l l y. Howe ve r, m o s t o f t h at m o n e y is NOT g o i n g to B l a c k- ow n e d

b u s i n e s s e s. We’ve a l l b e e n to t h e n e i g h b o r h o o d B S S ( b e a u t y s u p p l y s to re ) t h at i s n o t ow n e d o r o p e rate d by a n Af r i c a n Am e r i c a n . D o n’t yo u wa nt a p i e ce o f t h at $ 9 1 3 billion dollars? Ste p 1 – O u t l i n e Yo u r Vi s i o n B r i n g yo u r v i s i o n to l i fe by p u t t i n g i t d ow n o n p a p e r. O u t l i n e yo u r i d e a s a n d


g o a l s. D o you want to cater to co nsumers or salons…or b o t h ? D o you want a tradit i o n a l retail space or some t h i n g edgy and moder n? Wh at ’s the per fec t name for yo u r store? ( Trust me your n a m e and logo are ex tremely i m p o r tant) At this stage d o n’t think about money or f i n a n ces. Just let your ideas f l ow. Use hair care magaz i n e s and even fashion maga z i n e s for ideas. Ste p 2 - D efine Your Target M a r k et S o yo u’ve decided who yo u’re going to sell to…now i t ’s t i me to make a cr ystal c l e a r pic ture of your target m a r k et. Age, where they l i ve, where they hang out, b u y i n g habits, hair care h a b i t s, hairst yles they wear, e tc. The more you k now a b o u t them the better. Ste p 3 - D ecide What To S ell Yo u k now your future clients i n s i d e and out. Time to d e c i d e which produc ts will d o b e st in your store. D o

some res e a rc h a n d c a l l t h o s e companie s. Fi n d o u t w h o the local d i s t r i b u t i o n re p i s and meet w i t h t h e m o r t a l k to them o n t h e p h o n e. G e t catalogs a n d p r i ce l i s t s. Step 4 – Lo c at i o n , Lo c at i o n , Location Based on a l l t h e i n fo r m ation you’ve g at h e re d g o o u t into the co m m u n i t y a n d check ou t s o m e re t a i l s p a ce s. How muc h a re t h e s p a ce s ? Is it a flat re nt a l rate t h at covers eve r y t h i n g o r a re there hid d e n o r u n d e f i n e d charges? Step 5 – L i ce n s i n g R equirem e nt s & Fe e s Find out w h at re q u i re m e nt s there are to o p e rate a b u s iness in yo u r c i t y a n d s t ate. D o you n e e d a d b a ( D o i n g Business As ) ? D o yo u n e e d a busines s l i ce n s e ? Wi l l for ming a n L LC b e a b e t te r business m ove ? H ow d o yo u get a Tax I D n u m b e r a n d a R eseller ’s Pe r m i t ? H ow m u c h does all o f t h i s co s t ?

Ch eck o u t w w w.s wa n g h a i r m a g a z i ne.com/Business for ven d o r a n d s u p p l i e r co nt a c t s.

Ste p 6 - B u s i n e s s Pl a n Us i n g a l l t h e i n fo r m at i o n yo u’ve g at h e re d c re ate a wo r k i n g b u s i n e s s p l a n . Th i s d o c u m e nt w i l l b e yo u r g u i d e to s e t t i n g u p a n d r u n n i n g yo u r b u s i n e s s. J u s t re m e mb e r i t s o k ay to c h a n g e a n d t we e k t h i n g s a s n e e d e d. M y f avo r i te b u s i n e s s p l a n g u i d e i s Al p h a Te a c h Yo u r s e l f B u s i n e s s Pl a n s i n 2 4 H o u r s by M i c h a e l M i l l e r. I t ’s ava i la b l e o n Am a zo n . co m .



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