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Susan Martin here : I have made this issue for all of the gardeners that need Ideas and to have the know how for a great spring garden. Let alone having the work at the end of the season getting ready for winter and the things needed to be done to insure a great spring harvest. Happy Gardening everyone from young to old..

Just a few flowers you can grow too

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Victoria’s Flower Dictionary in “The Language of Flowers” Novel Flower & Plant Information. Meanings of Flowers Vanessa Diffenbaugh's novel "The Language of Flowers" tells the story of Victoria, a young woman from the foster-care system who uses the Victorian language of flowers to communicate with others and make sense of her troubled past. Diffenbaugh created Victoria's Flower Dictionary by reviewing several dictionaries "The Flower Vase" by Miss S. C. Edgarton, "Language of Flowers" by Kate Greenaway, "The Language and Sentiment of Flowers" by James D. McCabe, "Flora's Lexicon" by Catharine H. Waterman Scanning the meanings, selecting the definition that occurred most often or she liked the best. "My goal was to create a usable, relevant dictionary for modern readers, Diffenbaugh said. "I deleted plants from the Victorian dictionaries that are no longer common, and added flowers that were rarely used in the 1800s but are more popular today."

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POTTERY BARN

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9/29/11 5:30:59 PM


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Mistake 4: Being too frugal It happens time and again. Gardeners buy insufficient amounts of a single variety of a certain plant. The result is a garden with not enough impact. Assess your garden before you shop and decide if it makes more sense to buy three or four pots of the same annual or perennial. Professional gardeners often plant a mass of one specific variety—the impact is worth the investment. Mistake 5: Skimping on trees

If you’re buying trees or shrubs, being frugal may REALLY not be the right decision. Unlike perennials, trees and shrubs generally take longer to develop a sturdy and attractive structure. Budget appropriately—if you want an ornamental tree in your yard, for example, be realistic about how much it will cost. Think of the purchase as an investment—all good garden design needs a focal point. supported by:

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Force spring-flowering branches (or if you’re lucky, snip branches already in bloom) to create a colorful, seasonal centerpiece Right now some lucky Canadians are already enjoying golden forsythia blooms, pink flowering crab blossoms, little purple crocuses and perhaps even some tulips. For others in this vast country with nine different plant hardiness zones, the miracles of spring are still snoozing, waiting for warmer weather before they dare show themselves. Spring and all its glory will eventually greet all Canadians, but take heart, you don’t have to just sit back and wait. Early-blooming flowering trees and shrubs such as forsythia, flowering crab-apple, purple leaf sand cherry, flowering almond and pussy willows, among others, can be encouraged to bloom indoors. The amount of time it takes to ‘force’ these branches into bloom will depend on how close it is to their natural outdoor blooming time. Generally, it can take anywhere from one to six weeks depending on the plant. Forsythia and pussy willows usually force in one to three weeks, while crab apple and magnolia branches are more difficult and known to take three to five weeks. Depending on where you live, you could have blooms in time for Easter. Large vases filled with forsythia blooms and pussy willow branches will add a dash of spring to your holiday décor. For a finishing touch to your arrangements, add colorful spring ribbon and a pretty Easter or spring paper embellishments. While the blooms are sure to put on a brilliant display all on their own, the embellishment, made from colorful scrapbook papers, provides a burst of color and whimsy. · · · · · · · · · ·

You will need Vase Easter-themed cookie cutters Two or more sheets of colorful scrapbook paper Matching ribbon Pencil Scissors Fine grit sandpaper Craft glue Ribbon Double-sided tape

Here’s how to make your vase wraps · Use Easter or spring-themed cookie cutters as a guide. Choose a bunny, chick, tulip or butterfly… Place the cutter on top of the scrapbook paper (good side up). Choose paper in a bright colors or pattern that will complement your décor. Trace around the shape with a pencil. Cut out the shape. · Next, place the cutout shape onto a second sheet of scrapbook paper in a complementary colors or pattern.   7


. Trace loosely around the cutout, leaving a border. You will shadow the cutout, giving you a larger version of the same shape to use as a background. Another option: trace an Easter egg shape onto the second sheet; making sure the egg is larger than the cutout. · Use fine grit sandpaper to smooth the edges of the cutout shapes. Stroke outward around the cutout. · Layer and centre the cutouts and glue the smaller one to the background. On either side of the smaller shape, make a vertical cut through the background using a utility knife. Make the cut long enough that the ribbon will slide through. Slide one end of spring ribbon (cut long enough to wrap around your vase with a slight overlap) through one slit, around the back of the embellishment and out the second slit in the front. · Centre the embellishment on the ribbon and attach the ribbon to the vase. Wrap it around, and use double-sided tape at the overlap. Make sure the ribbon is snug. Tips on forcing spring branches To get weeks of enjoyment from your spring arrangement, here is some expert advice on forcing spring flowers from gardening columnist and owner of Brunswick Nurseries in Quispamsis, N.B., Duncan Kelbaugh: · The only shrubs to consider for cutting to force into bloom in the late winter are those that normally bloom very early in the spring. Their flower buds are pretty well developed by late fall and only need a month or two of freezing dormancy before they are capable of blooming once brought into the warmth. Try pussy willow, moosewood and from the garden, forsythia and February daphne. · When choosing your source plants, choose those that are growing under good conditions, with plenty of sunlight and fertile soil. Most flowering plants will produce larger, more numerous blooms when grown in full sunlight. · It’s important to know which branches to cut. The flower buds are produced on wood that is in its second or later season, somewhat more inward on the body of the shrub. The twigs they grow on are shorter, somewhat thinner, and more branched than the outer shoots. Cut the most vigorous and healthy of those older branches, and you will be in for much more bloom. However, pussy willow is different in that the pussy willows are produced mainly on last year's wood. And he reminds that one-year old forsythia branches, the long and unbranched ones that grew last year, probably have no flower buds on them. · Learn to recognize flower buds from vegetative ones. Flower buds are usually smaller than the vegetative ones, fatter, but less pointed. And by the time you’re out collecting, they may be signaling their upcoming show with bits of the future color showing faintly between the buds. · When harvesting, use sharp pruners, and collect cuttings about a foot or two long, depending on how you plan to use them. When you have them indoors, cut the bases again just under the surface of warm water. Put them in a vase of water with a bit of floral preservative in it, in indirect sunlight, and wait for nature's miracle to happen. 8


By Judith Adam

Here are some fall do’s and don'ts, plus tips to help your garden get a

jump-start on spring . As autumn leaves drift by your window, it may be tempting to look outside and think idle thoughts about nature taking care of itself. But like the rest of us, Mother Nature needs a good kick in the pants once in a while. Here are some fall dos and don'ts, plus tips to help your garden get a jump-start on spring. [1] When available, pop ‘Icicle' pansies into spots where summer annuals have been cleared out. They will bloom until December, then lie down for the winter. Cover them with evergreen cuttings until earliest spring, when they'll be ready to sprout new flower buds. [2] Leaves are garden gold. Spread small leaves of trees, such as honeylocust, birch, beech, ginkgo and silver maple (or shredded large Norway maple leaves), under shrubs and over all exposed soil. They will degrade into mineral nutrients; worms will turn them into fertilizer. [3] Take a gamble and throw seeds of hardy annuals where you want them to bloom next year. Larkspur, poppies, cleome and cosmos will frequently take root from seeds sown in autumn and conditioned under winter snow. [4] Plant bulbous Asiatic and Oriental lilies in late fall to ensure flower bud set. When planting is delayed until spring they may not get enough chilling and come up blind, with no flowers. [5] Wait until the soil has frozen before mulching autumn-installed plants. After freeze-up, a thick mulch of leaves and evergreen cuttings will keep their root balls safe from the heaving action of frost. [6] Lift big, fibrous clumps of summer phlox, hostas and Siberian irises and divide with a sharp spade or knife; tease apart fleshy roots of daylilies. Lateblooming perennials such as Michaelmas daisies and obedient plant (Physostegia virginiana), purchased in bloom, can go directly into garden beds (see #5). [7] Plant garlic in October, in a sunny spot with lots of manure dug in. Set individual cloves eight centimetres deep and 15 centimetres apart, and mulch with five to eight centimetres of leaves. Hard-neck Rocambole garlics such as ‘Music' are the hardiest strains, and, when planted in October, can be harvested in July, just as the first cherry tomatoes turn red. [8] Autumn is a good time for planting evergreen trees and shrubs. The evergreens' root systems pump water all winter, so be sure to water them well before the ground freezes. And don't hesitate to purchase deciduous flowering shrubs at discounted prices. Even after a summer in containers, they'll adapt and make strong root growth in cool autumn soil. [9] Autumn is the only time to move clematis or honeysuckle vine to prevent shock to growth: both vines begin extending leaves and shoots while frost is still in the spring ground. If the vines are large, cut them back by half, and they'll leap forward next spring.

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[10] Use generous amounts of anti-transpirant sprays (available at garden centres) on needle evergreens and broadleaf evergreens, such as euonymus, Japanese pieris and rhododendrons. The waxy coating helps to preserve tissue moisture and prevent winter windburn and sunscald. And lavish it on your Christmas tree to help keep it fresh through the holidays. [11] Root vegetables such as carrots and parsnips are sweeter after hard frost and can be harvested all winter. Remove top foliage from the plants and cover them with a 15-centimetre-thick mulch of leaves or straw (available from garden centres) spread to similar thickness. Throw an old piece of carpeting on top and let it snow. Lift the coverings to dig out veggies as needed. [12] Tender hybrid teas, floribunda and grandiflora roses need hilling up about 25 centimetres above their crowns with fresh soil or triple mix. A simple trick that reaps armloads of rose blooms is to tie the flexible new canes of climbing roses in a horizontal arc along fences or trellises. This will trigger the breaking and blooming of many more buds next summer. [13] As for garden hygiene, pick up or rake diseased leaves from under roses (black spot) and crab-apples (scab) and dispose of them in the garbage, not the compost pile. Left on the soil all winter, they'll reinoculate the plants with disease spores the following spring. [14] Squirrels “read� the disturbed soil and marks you leave when planting their favorite tulips and crocuses. Outwit them by concentrating spring bulb plantings in large groups and disguising your marks by flooding the soil surface with water. Then cover them with five centimetres of leaves topped with some shrubby branches. [15] Remove the debris of summer annuals, and then be honest with yourself: will you really go out in early spring to remove remaining perennials? Clean up as much as possible now, leaving strategic clumps for attractive winter display and food for birds. Sedums, hostas, astilbes and ornamental grasses are beautiful in snow. [16] Unless you really are Snow White, try not to create a garden of little winter dwarfs all wrapped up in burlap coats. Tightly wrapped burlap does plants more harm than good by potentially holding ice against their tissues. To protect them from wind or household dryer vent emissions, set up stakeand-burlap barriers, fastened with diaper pins, to break air currents.

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laughing

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