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children’s stories

The 2010 Vans Triple Crown of Surfing

from the 2010 triple crown of surfing

And Other Children’s Stories p h oto: ji mmicane


Gather round, boys For there are tales

and girls! to tell...

Tales

o f b oa r d a n d b a r r e l !

Tales

of fortune and fame!

Tales

of flat spells and rain squalls!

Tales

of triumph and shame!

There

a r e f l oa t e r s a n d t u r n s , h a s s l e s a n d b u r n s ,

n e r v e s a n d co n c e r n s

There’s Jeremy’s and

Pipe

Though

there are claims!

win, and aerial spins,

living up to its name! w e co m e e v e r y y e a r , a s a l w a y s i t ’ s c l e a r

that the stories are never the same. photo: jimmicane

We

start at the beginning.


Once

u p o n a t i m e , o n a n i s l a n d n o t s o v e r y f a r f r o m h e r e ...


Chapter

1

haleiwa

OFF T O NEV ER NE V ER LAND & OTHER TA LES FR OM THE REEF HA W AII AN PRO

Chap

2

sunset

WHERE T T HINGS . .

& O THER FRO M THE O ’ NEILL


pter

2

b e ac h

THE WILD .. AREN ’T

THER TA LES NEILL WORLD CUP

Chapter

3

banzai

pipeline

HOW THE FRENC H ST OLE CHRIST MAS & O THER TA LES FRO M THE BILL A B O NG PIPELINE MA STERS


Off

to

Never Never Land

& Other Tales

from the

Reef Hawaiian Pro

C hapte r

1

haleiwa

a l l p h o t o s B Y r aya n f o l e y

S e co n d

star to the right, and straight on till morning.

Haleiwa.


WHY , IT ’ S PETER PAN


& T IN KERBELL ! The

ageless

S u n n y G ., 6 x Vans Triple Crown

champ,

n o w co m p e t i n g i n the

Clash

of the

L e g e n d s . (A n d Lily.)


AND T HE LOS

O cc y ( 4 4 )

Reef Hawaiian Pro Clash

of the

Legends

Carrol

p i t t e d f o u r s u r f i co n s a g a i n s t e ac h o t h e r f o r t h r e e r o u n d s o f


LOS T BOYS !

ll

(48)

swordplay.

C u r r e n (46)

Still

blowin’ up, never growin’ up.


. . . o r m a ybe Capt ain “I

thought it was going to be

a mellow thing, but that first heat w o k e m e u p t o t h e f ac t t h a t t h o s e guys were hungry and they still want to win, so it was anything goes.”

Sunny

at

—Sunny Garcia

Haleiwa? We

know how this story ends.

HOOK?


T ALE AS OLD AS TIME


PARKINSON CRUSOE S h i p w r e ck e d ! I n J u l y , J o e l ’ s Castaway! He Rescue! Joel’s

s u r f v e s s e l ca p s i z e d i n a

S n a p p e r R oc k s

w a s s t r a n d e d o n a d e s e r t e d co u c h a n d f o r g o t t e n a s season needed to be saved.

FIRST HEA T:

The Reef Hawaiian Pro

W a v e #1: 10.00

tube, the rudder nearly severing his heel.

Kelly Slater

sailed to a

was his chance.

W a v e #4: 9.87

10th

world title.


“I think I can, I think I can...”


20,000 L e a g u e s U n d e r Unsponsored

and rated well outside the

Hawaiians Hank Gaskell (here)

the

‘CT

A SP T o p 1 0 0 ,

and

Ola Eleogram (next

spread) pin their hopes on the annual

Triple Crown. These

golden jerseys may as well be golden tickets.


SNOW WHIT E AND T HE SE VEN PROS L

to

R: M a k u a k a i R o t h m a n , P a n c h o S u l l i v a n , O l a E l e o g r a m , M o n y ca B y r n e -W i c k e y ,

Pat Gudauskas, Dylan Graves, Dane Gudauskas, Tanner Gudauskas

‘ S t ac h e y Fighty H ac k y

Grinny

Snow White


Grommy

G oo f y

Frothy


THE ADVENTURES OF HUCK FIN Small Haleiwa

means lefthand launchpads for

g oo f y f oo t s l i k e

Wilko


SLEEPING BEAUTIES Evan Valiere started at Haleiwa in the lowly Round of 136. He finally went down f i v e h e a t s l a t e r t o t h e e v e n t u a l co n t e s t winner and runner-up,

Joels Parkinson and Centeio. Evan earned a nap.


The Wonderful Wizard Taj Burrow

of

follows the hollow-lip road

Oz


in

We’re not Yallingup anymore!


THE ( j u ) LIAN K ING 3rd

at

Haleiwa

2nd

at

Sunset

Julian Wilson, l oo k i n g l i k e a young heir to the

Triple Crown

throne.

“Oh, I

just can’t

w a i t t o b e k i n g .”


But then...

Run Denied

“I

a

away,

Pipe Masters

Simba! And w i l d ca r d ,

wanna thank everyone for

the

support in

regards

getting a spot at

to

Pipe. I’m

sorry to say it’s not going to happen this year but

I’ll

b e b ac k n e x t y e a r a n d m a n y y e a r s t o co m e a f t e r t h a t .

Fingers crossed I make the t o u r ! G oo d l u c k t o t h e b o y s trying to make a move up! I’m o u t , H a w a i i . Y o u w e r e g oo d to me.” —Julian Wilson, Dec. 7th via Twitter

Jules

n e v e r c o m e b a ck !

is banished from his first

Triple Crown.


“It’s

b e e n t h e m o s t r a d i ca l y e a r o f m y l i f e .

Triple Crown

It’s

b e e n s u c h a r a d i ca l

year, so sad and so happy at various times. and

I’m

sad, then

I’m

happy, and

It’s

winner of the

win the

would mean a year that’s had so many ups

and downs would end on a high.

sad again.

To

I

I

think of my son

think of

Andy’s

I

Mahli

son and

all so up and down.”

think of

Andy

being born and

I

get a little

—Joel Parkinson,

Reef Hawaiian Pro 2010


“I t h i n k I can, I think I c a n ... ”

Photo: dj struntz


W h e r e T h e W i l d T h i n g s ... & Other Tales From The O’neill World Cup

C hapte r

2

sunset

b e ac h


Aren’t P oo r

co n d i t i o n s f o r c e d l a y - d a y s a n d o v e r l a p p i n g h e a t s a t

Val’s Reef

and

Kammieland. Nothin’

wild about it.

photo: jimmicane


ROAR!

Jordy Smith,

wild thing.

photo: foley


The

O’N e i l l W o r l d C u p w a s than the waves. Tiago Pires, probably w o n d e r w h a t ’ s f o r l u n c h . photo:s foley f oo d a t t h e

often better starting to


“T h e n

from far away across the world he smelled good

things to eat, so he gave up being king of the wild things.”

—M a u r i c e S e n d a k , W h e r e

the

Wild Things Are


“And

the wild things roared their terrible roars and gnashed their

terrible teeth and rolled their terrible eyes and showed their terrible claws.”

—M a u r i c e S e n d a k , W h e r e

the

Wild Things Are


R ao n i M o n t e i r o (Brazilians: Ecstatic!

wins, and the crowd goes wild

Others: Diplomatic,

but visibly disinterested.) photo: foley


LET THE WILD RU MPUS S T ART!


R ao n i M o n t e i r o ,

first

Brazilian

to win at the

Triple Crown

in

20

years:

king of all wild things

photo: foley


Meanwhile... Parko, hill.

t h e l i t t l e a u s s i e t h a t co u l d , k e e p s c h u g g i n g u p t h e

photo: foley

Joel

moves into the quarterfinals, maintaining his

Triple Crown

ratings lead after two events.


t


HOW THE FRENCH STOLE CHRISTMAS & Other Tales

from the

Billabong Pipe Masters

Ch a pte r

3

banzai

photo: foley

pipeline


Over

the fields and through the ‘hoods, to Gerry’s house we go...


photo: jimmicane


ALI C ES IN WONDERLAND Vans’ Dual

Jewel brought four f e m a l e s u r f e r s t o P i p e , a h i s t o r i ca l l y boys-only Triple Crown venue. It

for the

was one mad tea party.

photo: jimmicane

Tyler Wright.


C oco H o : At

sea, mad as a hatter.

Ashore,

a

Cheshire Cat

smile.


The Queen

Alana Blanchard,

of

Hearts

newly requalified for the photos: jimmicane

A SP W o m e n ’ s W o r l d T o u r


T W EE D L E D e e p T y l e r W r i g h t , B ac k d oo r . photo: jimmicane


T W EE D L E D u m p C oco H o , photo: jimmicane

into the rabbit hole


“I

think

t h e l i tt l e a u s s i e t h a t c o u l d Despite Parko’s Triple Crown points lead, victory is far from certain when he goes down in

Round 3

“I

think

I

at

ca n ,

He

I

Pipe.

I

think

I

ca n . . . ”

ca n o n l y s i t , w a t c h a n d wait for his story to unfold. photo: jimmicane

think


I

can,

I

c a n ...”


GOLDILO C K S & T HE ( r o u n d ) 3 BARRELS

photos: jimmicane

Dusty Payne’s 2011 World Tour


r e q u a l i f i ca t i o n r e s t s o n a

Round 3

victory against

Mick Fanning.


With

four minutes

to go,

Mick

Dusty

co m b o ’ d

has

with a total of

17.94

Then Dusty

finds

two bowls at

B ac k d oo r digs in photo: foley

and


This

one’s just right.


S co r e : 9 . 0 0 / / T i m e R e m a i n i n g : 3 : 4 9 photo: jimmicane


This

one’s just righter.


S co r e : 9 . 8 7 / / T i m e R e m a i n i n g : 0 : 0 0 photo: jimmicane


Mmmm... Dusty Payne —

officially on tour in

2011. Delicious.

photos: jimmicane


With Mick’s photo: jimmicane

elimination, the

Little Aussie That Could

chugs one step closer to his


Triple Crown.

“I can,

I

think

I

I

think

can...”


ALL SLOBS GO T O HEA V EN ...at

least all

Dane’s

do

photo: jimmicane

Sky-high

exclamation point for a

9.33


T HE C U T BA C K OF NO T RE DANE Reynolds

rings the bell at

photo: jimmicane

B ac k d oo r .


Kelly

m u s t b e o n e h o n e s t ca t , b e ca u s e h i s n o s e s k e e p g e t t i n g s h o r t e r a n d s h o r t e r .

photo: jimmicane


PINO C C HIO


It’s

h i s t u b e r i d e s t h a t a r e r e a l l o n g ...

photo: foley


B ac k d oo r

specialist

Kieren Perrow,

the

Frenchman’s

final victim.

photo: foley


HOW T HE FREN C H S T OLE C HRIS T M AS “’Pooh-pooh no

to the

C h r i s tm a s

Whos!”

is coming!

h e w a s g r i n c h i l y h u mm i n g .

They’re

just waking up,

mouths will hang open a minute or two, then the

‘Boo

hoo.’”

—Dr. Seuss, How

the

I

“They’re

finding out now that

know just what they’ll do.

Whos

down in

Whoville

will all cry,

Grinch Stole Christmas

Jeremy Flores (next ultimate surfing’s

Christmas

spread) swipes the present from

Who’s Who:

Kieren Perrow Kelly Slater Owen Wright T aj B u r r o w C J H o b g oo d

Their


You’re

a mean one,

Mr.


French

photo: jimmicane


“But

this... this sound wasn’t sad.

W h y ... Who

this sound sounded glad.

down in

Whoville,

Every

the tall and

the small, was singing, without any presents at all!

C h r i s tm a s Somehow same.”

from

He

hadn’t stopped

coming,

it

came!

or other, it came just the

—Dr. Seuss, How

Stole Christmas

the

Grinch


All

the

Whos

down at

Pipeline...

...elated

for

Jeremy!

photos: foley and jimmicane


Jeremy

d e d i ca t e s h i s h a r d - e a r n e d w i n , t h e f i r s t f o r a

European

in

Triple Crown

histo


ory, to his idol,

And

what happened then?

Well,

at

that the

Pipeline

they say

Frenchman’s

small

rep grew three sizes that day.

Andy Irons. Bien

fait,

Jeremy!

photo: foley


“I I

thought

thought

I

I

co u l d ,

co u l d . . . �

The Little Aussie That Could,

refusing to be

derailed by injury, climbs to the top of the

Triple Crown

for the third straight year

Joel Parkinson: 2010 Vans Triple Crown of

Surfing

champion


“Oh, I

j u s t ca n ’ t

wait to be king...”

photo: foley


T HE END ...until

next year


S T ORY T ELL children’s

EDITORIAL Editor in Chief travis ferrÉ

stories

Managing Editor stuart cornuelle Photo Editor peter taras Associate Photo Editor jimmy wilson

from

Art Director chato aganza Art Director Scott Chenoweth

the

Online Editor jason miller

2010 tripl

Photographers Jimmicane and Ryan Foley

crown of surfing


Triple Crown