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Contents Contents Contents Contents
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Off The Wall photo by Sean Davey 8
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Editorial Aloha (love) and mahalo nui loa (thank you very much) to God for another amazing Surfaholic Magazine. My appreciation goes out to all the readers and supporters. This year we also launched an online digital magazine, same as the printed. Almost as good as the printed but free for the world wide web to enjoy. The articles in the printed version are in full because we still want the support of our reader to printed Surfaholic ! Continue to support and collect our wonderful magazine, Surfaholic. The internet has opened up more international connections. We have fans from all over the world and Surfaholic is very happy ! We are taking the time to make Surfaholic in Japanese, English and Portuguese and soon to also include Spanish. Check on the net, www.surfaholicmagazine.com, to see our digital Surfaholic Magazine. Become our fan in Facebook, Orkut, and Twitter. For now Surfaholic will be printed only in English. A lot of people still like to hold the real printed version and keep for oneâ€™s own collection. This year on the North Shore of Oahu, the waves were really good ! I tried to search for the best shots through over 3,000 pictures and came up with a nice outcome ! I am very glad to have Sean Davey back on the Surfaholic Team ! His photography and words capture the true culture of surfing for all to enjoy. A very special thanks to our Art Director Ale Mizukami, he has done a remarkable job and we appreciate all of his hard work and dedication he put into making Surfaholic Magazine. Mahalo (thank you) Dennis Pang for the time he gave for his interview in Surfaholic, and much mahalos for the surf trip surfers that went to Tasmania, all those that put advertisement and the photographers and writers of Surfaholic family. A big special mahalos goes out to Leila Maghanoy and her Ohana for the support and love. Shaka Terry Maghanoy ! May peace be with all of you and may we all love and respect our oceans ! Surf, surf, surf ! Aloha Ricardo Gibo
John John Florence surfing at Pipeline photo by Sean Davey
Publisher Executive Director Managing Editor Art Director Staff Designers Contributing Designer Translators Photo Editor Staff Editor Staff Photographers
Mediaholic Co. Ricardo Gibo Leila Maghanoy Ale Mizukami Aguinaldo Gibo Bruno Dana Akira Yashiro Ricardo Gibo Katrina Maghanoy Sean Davey Bruno Lemos Ricardo Junji Contributing Photographers Dustin Hay Jared Hay Steve Quick Lika Maya Clemente Coutinho Francisco Chagas Levy Cruz Paiva Gilson Wiederkehr Agustin Munoz Chris Klopf Kumiko Hirassa Contributing Writers Steve Barilotti Ricardo Junji USA Marketing Director Ricardo Gibo Hawaii Marketing Director David Gonsalves Brazil Representative Ale Mizukami Europe Representative Marcia Gibo Japanese Sales Manager Yudi Tazaki Mediaholic Co. 66-314 Waialua Beach Rd Haleiwa, HI. 96712 firstname.lastname@example.org www.surfahoilcmagazine.com
SH: Where were you born and raised ? KA: In Oahu, Islands of Hawaii ! SH: How old where you when you started surfing and where did your learn ? KA: I was about 4 years old wen I started. SH: Who are your sponsors now ? KA: Billabong, Von zipper, Local Motion, Nixon watches, Blackline MFG, Vertra sunscreen, an Fitted Hawaii. SH: Where is your favorite surf spot ? KA: I like Haleiwa and Kewalos. SH: Who is your favorite surfer ? KA: Jordy Smith. SH: What is your favorite maneuvers ? KA: I Kirk trying new things ab getting barreled and big carves. SH: How long have you been surfing for ? KA: Pretty much my whole life. SH: Did your parents surf ? KA: My dad does. SH: How old where you when you competed in surf contests ? 14
KA: Maybe about 6. SH: Where was your favorite surf trip youâ€™ve been on and why ? KA: I loved Tahiti it was just fun an got some good experience. SH: You just got 2nd in which contest ? ( Congrats ! ) How was the contest/the finals the waves ? KA: Yeah it was the grade 3 at Sebastian Inlet it was the pro junior. SH: What is your favorite kind of food ? KA: I Love sushi. SH: What other hobbies do you have besides surfing ? KA: Golfing ! SH: What are your plans for the future ? KA: I want to be the best surfer I can be ! SH: Who is your best rip kid friend ? KA: Ezekiel Lau. SH: What is your favorite surf movie ? KA: Blue horizion. SH: Any last words ? KA: Live life to the fullest !
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Interview by Ricardo Gibo photos by Sean Davey
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Interview by Ricardo Gibo Photo by Bruno Lemos SH: How old are you ? Gabriel: I am 16 years old. SH: Who are your sponsors? Gabriel: Rip curl, Nike 6.0 and Pukas. SH: What is your favorite surf spot ? Gabriel: Maresias, Sao Paulo (north coast) Brazil. SH: How old were you when you started to surf ? Gabriel: I was 8 years old. SH: How old were you when you started in contests ? Gabriel: I was 9 years old.
SH: Do your parents surf too ? Gabriel: Yes ! SH: Do you surf in the Brazil circuit and/or International circuit ? Gabriel: I only surf on the Brazil surf team and trying to get points in the WQS to get into the WCT. SH: What was your best results in the contest ? Gabriel: Under 18 the World surf contest 1st place, the World Champion (king of the grom-France) Under 16 1st place, the Champion of WQS 6* in
Brazil, and the Champion of Rip curl Grom search. SH: How was the Quicksilver king of grommets contest ? Gabriel: The contest was very nice. I had good feeling about the whole day- the waves, my surfboard, and the vibes. I had very good concentration in the Finals and got 2 perfect 10 score on 2 of my waves. My focus was there and I was so happy ! It was a very good day ! SH: What happened in Australia ? Everyone was
waiting for Clay Marzo to show up. Gabriel: I surfed with him, he just showed up 5 minutes late. I donâ€™t know what happened to him. SH: What is your favorite maneuvers ? Gabriel: Aerials and Tube rides. SH: What kind of training do you like to do ? Gabriel: I train with my dad and use the big yoga ball all the time. I do some special training, yoga, swim and surf. SH: Who is your favorite surfer in Brazil and from the world ? Gabriel: From Brazil it is Adriano de Souza and for the World Mick Fanning and Owen Wright. SH: What is your dream surf trip ? Gabriel: Next week is my dream surf trip to Indonesia. I have always wanted to surf there. SH: What is your plan for the future ? Gabriel: If the God helps me, I want to classify in the WQS to qualify in the WCT. SH: What is your favorite surf movie ? Gabriel: Modern Collective. SH: What is your favorite foods ? Gabriel: Rice, Beans, Chicken and French fries from my mother ! SH: What is your favorite kind of music ? Gabriel: I donâ€™t know cause I have so many kinds I like. I like Rock N Roll kind-Let it Rock ! SH: What is your favorite size waves to surf ? Gabriel: My favorite size to surf is a good 5 feet. SH: How was your winter in Hawaii ? Gabriel: It was nice, this was my 2nd year. I practiced my maneuvers and hung out with my friends and surfed a lot of waves ! SH: Was it difficult to surf Pipeline ? Gabriel: Before I surfed Pipeline I thought it was going to be more difficult to ride, but the most difficult was the crowd in the water. The local crowd made it hard to catch waves, but Pipeline is my favorite wave to surf in Hawaii ! SH: What is the advice you can give for doing aerials ? Gabriel: The secret is practice, practice, practice ! The more you practice then the more you get it right. SH: Which surfboard shaper do you prefer ? Gabriel: Johnny Cabianca-PUKAS. SH: Any messages to all the surfers ? Gabriel: A lot of surfing and Peace for everybody !
A Tassy surfers lot is considerably different to the norm. You might be thinking: “which T shall I wear today”. In Tassy, it’s more like do I need to bring an extra T-shirt woolly jumper, jacket, gloves and beanie, in case the weather turns. Oh yeah, it’s the full 4 seasons in one day for sure. In the city, it’s like “got to avoid the peak hour traffic”, In Tassy, it’s “got to avoid the road kills”, or even worse creating road kills yourself, such is the sheer numbers of wild animals, hanging out on the roads down here. I live in Hawaii where it’s generally warm to hot most days, but here in TAS, you have to pile the sunblock on even on overcast days. I spent 2 days recently on a boat and still ended up with sunstroke for a day even though I was using good quality sunblock. It’s just an unfortunate fact of life these days due to the hole in the ozone layer above TAS.
Here in TAS, there is quite an obvious bogan element. It’s pretty much all around. You know the look, checkered flannel shirts, cigarettes under the sleeve of the T-shirt on the warmer days. Usually a loud car regardless of weather the car actually has a big engine or not. I even photographed a letterbox made from a V8 engine block. Tassy surfers don’t seem too caught up in surf fashion as such. It’s more about the function in these parts. On this particular trip, I noticed that a lot of crew were wearing really old surf clothing from way back. I asked one mate about his bright magenta Billabong jumper (think about early 80’s vintage) and he simply said “it’s really warm, eh” I don’t wanna get rid of it. Certainly I noticed this a fair bit while I was in TAS this year. Function over fashion absolutely. So much of the coast is as it’s always been, especially in the more remote regions such as Marrawah to the north which pretty much is still as it was back in the 80’s except for maybe a couple more paved roads. Some places don’t even have roads, like down in the deep south where the only way in is to hike for hours, days, even weeks if you are hardcore and “yep”, we saw them. Of course you could do what we did and motor round the cape in a good boat or even do as others have and fly in a small plane and land on the beach. It’s wild and the options are there. Getting back to the weather extremes of this place, I’ve spent 6 weeks here this time round and the wind has not subsided the entire time. Like their west Oz bretheren, the Tassy crew spend a fair bit of time working around the prevailing winds or just simply waiting on the wind to change to a more favourable direction. The whole 6 weeks I’ve been here this year, the wind has not dropped below 15 knots. I hung out a bit with the crew from South Arm in Hobart and I’m always very impressed with the strong sense of comraderie between everyone. Certainly I didn’t personally see any conflicts amongst the guys. They all pretty much have each others backs, but at the same time, if one gets smashed, coming in over the rocks for example, he’ll cop a roasting off the entire group, at least till the next one comes in. It amazes me even to this
day, how far Tassy surfers will drive for a leisurely surf, even just a surf check.I was talking to a mate the other day who thought nothing of the 2 hour drive to go go surf down on the Tasman peninsular for the morning. I’ve even been hearing a bit about what a bad summer it’s been in the Hobart area and how all the crew have been driving 3 hours to the north for single sessions on the east coast, due to that particular location having consistently good banks, this year. All the people that I hung out with who were not from Tasmania this time round were all universally impressed with the local’s open arms attitude and their generally welcoming nature. Quite like no other surf zone that I’ve visited anywhere, really. It’s an unbelievably beautiful environment, no matter where you go. Just about always crystal clear waters too. Yeah,it’s a bit chillier than it’s northern neibours, but the cooler water makes for a more invigorating experience, especially in my own case, coming straight from Hawaii and my first swim this trip was right at the very bottom of Tasmania. Every one else was saying how chilly the water was there too. Onto the subject of weather; most crew here have been saying what a bad season it has been for
surf with many choosing to drive 3 hours north, up the east coast, in search of a decent surf. I’ve noticed myself that the weather is coming from a much more westerly direction, as opposed to the usual South westerley direction, that I’d consider more to be normal. It’s played havok with my plans on King Island this year because a west is one of the worst winds. It shuts down so many spots. I’ve been hearing similar stuff from the locals both here on KI and in TAS. And looking back just a bit, last year and the year before both had the the 1st and second EVER hurricanes in the great southern ocean. I was here during both. And this year, I flew in just as powerful a storm, which threw tornadoes down onto northern Tasmania. Landing in it at Melbourne airport required 2 aborted landing attemps, one which was just about the heaviest thing I’ve ever been in. Not bagging on Virgin at all. It was just a massive wind sheer that hit our plan on runway approach and caused the captain to suddenly gun both engines, full boar. I had the full death grip on the seat in front of me during that episode. Some poor bloke, a few rows back puked more than a couple of dozen times during the 40 minute ordeal. I’ve noticed also that it is a lot cooler here this year.
4ASMANIA´&ROM´A´(AWAIIAN`S´ 0ERSPECTIVE by Flynn Novak
This was my first time to Tasmania. Immediately I realized it’s a place which is susceptible to drastic weather changes that can happen over night. I experienced really hot and muggy conditions, where you need to wear more sunscreen than clothes. But for the most part, I was rocking every type of warm clothing article I had brought, along with a zipped up coat! I love how wild and spreadout Tasmania is. It’s a treat when you get to surf with no one around. The surrounding wilderness and deserted coastline seems to bring you back in time, and you can tell that there haven’t been any drasticchanges to the land for it’s entire history. The wildlife is amazing as well and it boggled my mind when I saw animals that I never knew existed, rummaging around in the bush just off the road. The people were some of the most welcoming and friendly i’ve ever come across ! It was a real treat getting to know people who actually want to share they’re space with you! That was something I am not accustomed to, usually its the other way around. The people were the best part of Tasmania, as they made me feel at home ! The water had a crisp chill to it, and every wave we surfed was pretty tricky. It doesn’t help when your feet feel like numb lead stumps! But I enjoyed my sessions, mainly due to the novelty factor of being so far away from everything, and being able to trade waves with one or two of my friends. Overall, I would go back to Tasmania again, but I would probably go for a swell, instead of for a Competition. I think Taz has a lot of un-tapped potential, and it all just depends on the elements coming together. 29
7RITTEN´OBERSAVTIONS (during Hawaiian’s visit to Tas) It’s been a very unusual season in Hawaii. Usually, the weather turns to crap round November, just as the tour hits the north shore, but this last season, it pumped and under pretty much sunny skies. It all turned to crap right before the finals day of the Pipemasters and it hasn’t come good yet. It’s now early April and it’s still cold and mostly on-shore, when normally, it would be sunny, glassy and warm.
Some of my close friends from the north shore have been wanting to check out Tassy forever, so I hooked ‘em up this year. Our crew consisted of Pancho Sullivan, Flynn Novak, Ezra Sitt and Mason Ho. All were frothing to check Tassy out, but none more so than Pancho. I’ve never seen him so syched to do a surf trip. Unfortunately, right before we left, Pancho did his back in on a rare large swell and was eliminated from the crew due to a messed up Syatic
nerve. It was a bummer to lose Pancho from our posse, but we replaced him with current world junior champ; Kai Barger. As luck would have it, the poor guy injured his knee right before leaving for Oz and was pretty much unable to surf for most of the trip. I was particularly interested to see how the guys would do, wearing wetsuits in the chilly Tasmanian waters and really, I was quite surprised to see that not only did they take to it like ducks to water, but the wetsuits showed no signs of slowing ‘em down at all. The main difference other than the temperature of the water here in TAS is the absolute wildness of the surf zones. There are only a handful of known surf breaks in TAS where you’ll even see any development on the beaches. So unlike the north shore where pretty much every bit of coastal land has buildings of some kind, the exact opposite is the standard down here. A by product of this is that surfers have to walk to the surf after parking their car, often quite a fair distance from the actual surf. The upside though is that it keeps ‘em pretty fit. You don’t see too many
tubby surfers in TAS, that’s for sure. Probably the chilly water helps in this respect too. I can imagine that you burn a hell of a lot more calories surfing in the cold water. Flynn and Ezra arrived a little earlier than Mason and Kai, so I took ‘em to surf a few local spots in the Hobart area. One such spot is North Clifton beach; a pretty unremarkable surf spot on most days, but it was pretty much the only option on this day, due to small surf conditions. Flynn and Ezra were jonesing to surf and made the most of the lacklustre conditions without any complaint, what-so-ever. They even appeared to enjoy the long walk in (about 20 minutes across the dunes and up the beach). Good blokes, these guys are. We really needed something more than this though so I opted to take ‘em down the Tasman Peninsular in the hunt for something a little more significant. We ended up at Remarkable Caves, near Port Arthur and the fellas loved it, despite more hardships, namely the difficult trail in through the Tee Tree bushes and scrub. The track which is well concealed from tourists obviously isn’t used too much because it was grown over to the point where we were crouching over to get through tunnels in the underbrush. I kinda dug on it myself. Especially when we cleared the other end of the trail to reveal a pana-vista of massive mountains and sea cliffs, largely dominated by old growth forests. The guys were loving the experience and although the swell direction was a little off, they managed to score a few decent waves in between what was mainly closeouts, amping on the experience all the same, because it was so different to life in Hawaii generally. We really needed to get some real waves though, so we hit the highway north for the 6 hour mission to the north west coast and a little farming community called Marrawah, picking up Mason and Kai in the process. I have fond memories of this area from my youth. It was the place where all Tassy surfers would go for a week or more of surf and relaxation, back then. The amazing thing is that it has changed barely at all in all this time, except for the now sealed road between Marrawah and Arthur River, 15 Km’s to the south. This happens
also to be home to a massive population of wildlife. All kinds, wallaby’s, pottaroo’s, wombats, devils, possom’s and a whole lot more. Pancho had booked us a killer beach shack all on it’s own, miles from any other building or road. It really was the bee’s knees. The road in was a bit dodgy though and what would normally take just a few minutes on other roads, actually took 15 minutes on average. The place was spectacular though. Beachies all over the place, flanked by big clumps of red granite rocks and brilliant white sand, that squeaked under-foot. Waves too were pretty fun in the 3-5 foot range. Beachies galore with not a soul in site. After the crowded line-ups on the north shore, the guys were loving every minute of it. All except Kai, who was content to sit it out and soak up the beautiful surrounds.The swell was really marching up the coast, so we decided to head back up to Marrawah and scope out Lighthouse beach as it appeared to be picking up the brunt of it. Rocking up at Lighthouse was amazing scene. 10 knot easterlies had the 6-8 foot swell groomed
into barrels with massive white plumes rising off the back of the waves. Of all the times that I’d been to Lighthouse over the years, this was just about as good as I’ve ever seen it look. A few crew were already on it, riding the right handers down the middle of the beach, but there were also insane lefts on both sides of the right which went totally unridden. The guys needed no encouragement. In fact Flynn was so syched to hit it, he was very, very lucky not to have trodden on a massive tiger snake that was sunning itself in the grass. That was the first of 3 tiger snakes that we encountered over the next few days. At this time of the year, they are getting ready to hybernate and are very, very aggressive. I had one leap 6 feet at me a few years ago on King Island, to the north. Back at the shack that evening, the owners rocked up with a bunch of food and cooked us a stellar dinner of local seafood delights, which is pretty much the norm round these parts. Most crew round here know how to get a meal from the ocean, which include such delacacies as Abalonies and crayfish.
Retiring to my bed that evening was amazing. My room had 2 large windows which offered an stellar view of the clearest sky and brightest stars, I’ve ever seen. Life seemed so perfect at that moment and I blissfully drifted off to sleep, hugely satisfied with the day just past. The following morning revealed a big increase in the swell which put “frontskies” and Lighthouse out of the question, so we opted for a reef further to the south, known as the bluff.Semi unfavourable winds had it not quite as nice as we would have liked, but that didn’t slow anyone down. Flynn and Ezra had to “go sample” and were joined by Aussies, Jay Thompson and Matt wilkinson. Mason just loved this wave, calling it something akin to a cross between Sunset and Haleiwa. And like the west peak at Sunset, some of the sets would break a little wide and clean everyone up from time to time. Mason was sporting full rubber, including even a wetsuit helmet, but he really didn’t need it. He just liked wearing it. Yeah, he was enjoying the experience of wearing rubber and lots of it. The reef itself is littered with massive amounts of bull kelp. Mason said that when he first ducked under a wave, he got clocked square in the head by what looked like a massive shlong. ha haPoor
old Kai, was still sitting back and nursing his injury, hoping that he’d be O.K. for his heat in the upcoming O’Neill Cold Water Classic which was starting in a couple of days time.Dawn revealed similar overcast conditions to the day before, but still a little more size yet. Mason was really giving it a good effort and his experience at Sunset really showed out there at the Bluff.Other crew were filtering into it now such as the Gudaskas bro’s and a pretty solid crew of Euro surfers. Owen Wright too was proving that he would be a contender for the contest title with very consistent radical surfing. The contest ran under sunny skies and no letup in the swell. It was pumping! Some of the best
surf I’ve seen for a contest in quite some time. Under a blue sky, it really took on a whole new look that was just awesome to behold. It made me proud to be a Tasmanian, seeing waves like this for a contest. The locals too were all smiles, stoked that their local breaks were pouring it on for the event. That’s one thing I really, really dig about Tasmania. Local surfers here are very welcoming in general. You don’t see the localisation at all really here. Think for a moment about the anti outsider vibe of other places. This place is the exact opposite. People were just so stoked to see all these surfers doing their thing in the local waves.The world could learn a lot from Tasmanians in that respect.
Dennis Pang Shaper interview
Photo and interview by Jared Hay SH: Hey Dennis, where were you born and raised ? Dennis: Honolulu, raised in Niu Valley. SH: How old where you when you started surfing ? 36
Dennis: 7 years old. SH: What got you into shaping surfboards ? Dennis: At that period in the surfing world there was a transition from long boards to “ mini guns” or the beginning of the shortboard
reveloution. It was a real creative time 1968 to 1969 in all aspects of life as well. Surfboard design . I watched Buddy Dumphy and Gerrry Lopez strip their tankers of the glass and re shape them using block planes to what they thought were the hottest shortboards of the time and glass them in their parent’s garage. Of course upsetting their parents not to mention their neighbors. Well I didn’t have money either so I striped an old tank and did the same and my friends wanted one so it evolved from there, wreaking my parents garage in the process. SH: Seeing so many different boards these days what are some the most popular shapes you have been shaping ? Dennis: It’s seasonal: winter, Northshore guns for waves 2 ft. to 20+. Summer, retro keel twin fin fishes and all the real short wide nose, fuller alternative shapes. SH: Looking at all the different materials now used for building surfboards has there been a major change on how you shape in the last 5 years ? Dennis: If your using styrofoam instead of poly than yes you would shape the board 1/16” to 1/8” thinner than your normal board using polyurethane foam. SH: What is your favorite foam to work with ? Dennis: U.S. Blanks.
SH: What is Dennis riding these days ? Dennis: 5’8” swallow convertable quad to thruster up to 10’0” Waimea gun and everything in between.
SH: Are you shaping boards any where else besides Oahu ? SH: You have a long history of shaping, any Dennis: Shikoku, Japan. words for the future shapers of the world ? Dennis: Let’s see you guys use a skill 100 or SH: Seen a lot of your boards on the beach this even a Hitchi planer and carve a blank out from winter. Who are some of the stand out riders scratch and ride it to understand what really ripping this on your boards ? makes a good board and learn the real art of Dennis: Marcus Hickman,Makua, Myles Padaca, shaping first, do 100 handshapes. Than you Love Hodel, Kamaki Worthington,Jamie can call your self a shaper. Don’t get me wrong Mitchell and Billy Watson. I do use the computer to cut the majority of my surfboards and sup boards. But I also hand SH: Is there any new concepts you are working shape some of the big wave guns, alternative on for 2010 ? shapes and laydown paddleboards. I still enjoy Dennis: Shorter fuller nose boards. doing them by hand. 37
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photos by Bruno Lemos
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What is Jaws “Jaws” known as Pe’ahi by the locals , Hawaiian for “beckon” and that is just what it does. “Jaws” is a place where world class daredevils risk their lives on the biggest waves in the world up to 70 feet high. The name “Jaws”, was given due to the size and ferocity of the waves that break there. “Jaws” is created when 20foot Aleutian swells rush headlong into a fast-shoaling underwater ridge jutting up to within 20 feet of the surface a third of a mile offshore near Ho’okipa Park on Maui’s north shore. The extreme size of the Aleutian swells is squeezed upwards as the wave jacks up cleanly over the reef. The swell can easily triple its openocean height within seconds. The result is a cyclonic top-to-bottom barrel that steams along for 200 yards before shutting down in deep water. It happens about 12 times a year, storms in the pacific and the Maui North Shore underwater topography come together to create the monster waves called “Jaws”. How to surf Jaws Using tow-in technology, wave faces up to 70 feet high and have been ridden and recorded. During the winter months the waves are the highest 10-70 feet high and is the home of “town-in” surfing. Tow-in surfing is when the rider has straps on their short surfboards to anchor their feet against the forces of the waves. Actually the first attempt by board surfers in the 1970’s, Jaws remained unridden until windsurfing’s elite began riding it in the 1980’s. It wasn’t until the 1990’s when a new breed of surfers created tow-in surfing. This sport is a combo of windsurfing and surfing technologies plus the raw horsepower from being towed into the wave by jet-ski. 46
Jaws cinematic debut Jaws, which made its cinematic debut as a tow-in superstar (with Laird Hamilton surfing) in Endless Summer 2 in 1994, was quickly embraced by the thrill seeking scientific community. National Geographic commissioned a bathy-metric survey of the reef and featured Jaws on the cover of its Jaws, formally named “Ali’i’s Fan” and “Atom Blaster”, was pioneered by wave-riding sailboarders in the late 1980’s. Laird Hamilton, Darrick Doerner and Buzzy Kerbox first experimented with tow-ins using inflatable boats and later jet-ski in the early 1990s. Since then, the blockbuster opening scene of the James Bond film. How to get to Jaws-Peahi Jaws is off Peahi Bluff and takes about 20 minutes to paddle out if you are crazy enough. Jaws is 1.5 miles east of Pauwela Point. Between mile markers 13 and 14 on the road to Hana (Highway 36), turn left on Hahana Road. The pave road will end and then you’re on a private dirt road owned by Maui Land and Pineapple. If the road is dry then maybe you can drive down-other wise hike for a mile until you get to the oceanside cliffs. It is not as easy as driving up to a parking lot, so Surfaholic Magazine brought Jaws to you. Can you hear the thunder of the giant waves pounding the shoreline and feel the energy it brings ? 49
photos by Sean Davey
According to Rick Grigg, a fossil reef extends 3/4 of a mile offshore running northwest and nearby picking up swells from storms that rage across the pacific all the way from Japan to the Aleutian Islands in Alaska. deceptively simple from shore, Sunset is actually a dangerously complex animal made up of several parts that seem to work independent of themselves until they all conspire against you at the worst possible time. Some surfers have dedicated their entire careers to parsing Sunset's arcane code. Spread over a football-field sized area is the west bowl, the northwest bowl, the north-north-west
bowl, "the hammer", the north peak, and of course, the notorious West Peak which nails everybody in a psyche-shattering rag-doll hold down sooner or later. Sunset has always been about savvy and bigwave high-performance surfing. Newly restored as finish-line event for the ASP world tour, Sunset quickly separates the waterman from the one drop wonders. This years first stop on SUP World Tour was located on the North Shore of Oahu at infamous Sunset Beach. The Sunset Beach Pro, stand Up World Tour had sets close to double-overhead (12-15 feet). Sunset Beach
Results 1. Kai Lenny (HW) 2. Kekoa Uemura (HW) 3. Kamaki Worthington (HW) 4. Peyo Lizarazu (FR)
conditions varied from glossy to bumpy swirly and at one point of time the event was halted after 3 heats due to dangerous conditions. Bottom line is that Sunset Beach is a tricky place to Stand Up Paddle because the fierce winds whipping up the face lifting boards up into forced airdrops; super powerful waves; the usual crowded line-up; several tricky takeoff areas; and a potential left that's pretty good with challenging conditions. The finals where held on February 14, 2010 and a big Congratulations goes out to Maui Boy Kai Lenny, a 17 year old waterman for winning the first SUP World Tour contest at Sunset Beach. The event sponsors this
year was Red Nose, Maui Jim, Hulakai and Go Airlines along with supporting partners: Sunetric, DaKine, Turtle Bay Resort, Longboarder Lager, Hawaiian Spring Water, Hele Wireess, and Nano Greens. Kekoa Uemura was on fire and was putting it all on the line, to the point that he also earned the award for the most radical wipeout! Kamaki Worthington was presented an award of $1000 f from Da Hui for his efforts in the semi finals for the single biggest wave. There are 3 more events to go for the SUP World Tour. The tour will continue to France, Tahiti and then end in California. Good Luck to all the competitors and supporters of the World Stand Up Paddle Tour.
The Volcom Pro 2010 The Volcom Pipeline Pro which had a holding period from Jan,23rd to February,5th , 2010, was a spectacular North Shore success story. It took place at the legendary Pipeline and was Volcom's first ever ASP event, a WQS 5-star event. The Pipeline Pro showed great support for the Hawaiian surfing community and gave great opportunity for the locals to get some more WQS and Triple Crown points. Volcom has been nested nicely on the North Shore, Oahu since the Early 1990's with their first surf team house at Turtle Bay. Volcom then moved to Rocky Point, V-Land, and then finally settling in a beach front location right in front of Bonzai Pipeline. What an awesome thing to have a contest in front of their very own surf team House. 54
Photo by Bruno Lemos
Photo by Sean Davey
Results 1. Jamie O'Brien 2. Anthony Walsh 3. Mark Mathews 4. Danny Fuller
Photo by Sean Davey
The final day of the Volcom Pro took place on February 1, 2010 and congratulations to local boy Jamie O'Brien taking the win with $16,000 and 2,000 Asp World Qualifying Series rating points. Jamie's goal is to win as many Pipeline contests as he can. Pipeline is his place and he knows were to sit and the waves so well. The talented Australian's Anthony Walsh and Mark Mathews took second and third respectively and both surfers broke their boards and had to swim to shore in the finals. There was a total of 27 broken surfboards within this Pipeline surf competition. The fourth place spot went to Hawaii's very own Danny Fuller, who scored a perfect 10 in the semi-finals. This was Volcom's first ever ASP event and it was blessed with Pipe perfect waves ranging from 10-15 feet face high. The Volcom Pro was full of world class big challenging rides and wipeouts you have only in your nightmares. What a great show everyone put on and thanks for all those who support the local communities and events !
Photo by Sean Davey 55
Pipeline According to Dr. Rick Grigg PH. D, pioneer North Shore big-wave surfer and coral-reef expert at the University of Hawaii, the Pipeline reef is a fossil limestone reef about 10,000 years old that predates the last ice age. A veneer of living reef grows over the fossil foundation but extreme wave action limits modern coral growth. The wave is actually shaped and focused by a mile-long offshore reef that refracts and focuses the incoming swell into terrifying blue tornados. “What makes the wave so spectacular is a lot more than just what you see when you go out there and look at the bottom”, says Grigg, “The reef is just the last bit of information the waves receives before it breaks”. Pipeline, unlike other Hawaiian reef breaks, it is more of a lava-rock-bottom with caves. The big wall of water constantly changing speed and direction. Out there in Pipeline is is a challenge to make it out of the best barrels but even harder to make it out on the not-soperfect ones. A gradually descending seabed make up Pipeline's “First Reef”, “Second Reef” and “Third Reef”. During a big swell, the waves get progressively bigger the further one goes out, but it is on the ridiculously shallow First Reef, located less than 50 yards offshore that the waves are the most hollow and mean. 12-foot bombs have been known to drain the water off the reef in a single horrifying slurp before exploding with the force 56
Photos by Sean Davey
(all in this page)
of an anti-tank mortar round. In 1960 “The Pipeline” as it was known back then defined its deadly beautiful mystique early on. A known killer, Pipeline regularly crushes or downs at least one surfer a year in its jaws. The infamous “caves” actually eroded lava overhangs snag cords and the occasional body on the regular basis. The term “tombstoning” is where a partially submerged board marks the location of dead or drowning surfer trapped underneath Pipeline's shallow impact zone which was invented by the lifeguards. When asked what the most frightening thing he'd ever seen at Pipe, North Shore journeyman Noah Johnson replied: “dead people”. 57
photo by Sean Davey
4(%´"%34´/&´ ./24(´3(/2%´ 7).4%2 Text and photographs by Sean Davey
The 2009-2010 surf season here on the north shore has been a very memorable one on so many levels. It all depends on who you talk to, I guess. Certainly, all of the big waves dudes have been pulling all their long neglected monster wave guns out and making good use of them this season and many of those boards meeting their end during the crazy months of Dec and Jan, where the surf rarely got below 10 foot, averaging closer to 15 feet, pretty much that whole time. It’s not only been an epic season for the big stuff. It’s also hardly stopped at all since late August. It’s early March now, so it’s already been a 6 month season and we still have the rest of March and April to go. Amazing stuff. 60
Kelly Slater 9x World Champion rides Waimea Bay 61
Tsunami at the North Shore Foodland
Davy Boy gone surfing at Ehukai
Beautiful sunset at Off Da Wall
The Bay on a big day
Most folks who’ve spent any extended amounts of item on the north shore over the past ten years will testify to how crowded it became during this time. There were factors that caused this, mainly Sept. 11th in 2001 scared all the movie and TV show producers from choosing over seas locations, so Hawaii suddenly was swamped with all manner of TV productions, including; Lost, North Shore, Hawaii, Rocky Point (which never got past pilot), boarding house, bachelor and more and then a bunch of movies too, including, The Big Bounce, Tears of the sun, Blue Crush, 50 first dates, and whole bunch more. Seriously folks, it got crowded there for a while. I recall in 2003, standing on the beach at Ehukai and staring down past Pupukea towards Gas Chambers and Rocky Point and I’m tellin’ ya, the whole beach was covered in people like what you would see at Bondi Beach in Sydney on a hot summers day. I distinctly recall lamenting the loss of the beach as it used to be totally devoid of people altogether along that stretch and I took that as an indicator of how the whole north shore had become effected by the massive influx of mainly regular tourist folk. I’m happy to report that the stretch between Ehukai and Rocky’s is once again 62
pretty much deserted other than a few surfers here and there, which is the way it should be. For pretty much the entire season up till Feb, there were way less photographers too. Throughout the past ten years, it unfortunately became pretty normal to see 10-20 guys swimming with fisheye len’s at Backdoor and Pipeline. It pretty much killed for many of those who made a living off shooting photographs out there. So many beautiful days this season actually went un-photographed from the water and the numbers on the beach too were drastically reduced. My theory on this is that many of those people who were encroaching on the surf photographers had to go back and get real jobs again because of the crappy economy. :) The boogers came in throughout Februrary and with them, the next wave of Aussie fisheye shooters. There are a lot young photog’s shooting boogers in Oz, by the look of things. Andy Irons showed up in late October and scored 6-10 backdoor with just a couple of others even out. He was ripping too. It was the Andy of old that so dominated the Backdoor sessions of 03-04. Another guy that’s been flaring is board shaper Wade Tokoro during the pre Dawn Pipe sessions. This guy charges
Tom Carrol awake for a bright and ealry session
Kai and his Hot Buttered Surfboards
Waimea Bay’s mouth is open
Crowd of Media spectators
harder than just about anyone at huge Pipe. I keep telling him that he needs to go pro. It hasn’t been a feast for all though. Take north shore waterman; Jamie Sterling who injured his shoulder early season and was forced sit out the most intense season for big waves in decades. You’ve gotta feel for the guy. He lives for the big stuff in all it’s forms, weather it be big gnarly Pipe or bigger gnarlier Waimea, and then all those outer reefs. He’ll be back even gnarlier next year. Jamies the man ! Buttons released his own brand of Coffee, right round the time that the WCTer’s were all arriving. North shore local Joel Centeio took out the Haleiwa event, while Parko took the Sunset event. Oh did I mention that surf has been pumping all season! Yeah, all season. There’s barely been a day that you couldn’t surf. There’s been a pretty solid presence of brasilian surfers at Rockys this year and some of these guys have been ripping, especially that one Volcom dude who I never know the name of. Wow! During this season, I’ve been hunting down old school surf legends for portraits, amongst them , Buttons, Larry Bertleman and Rory Russel. All totally cool guys. So much fun to meet such legends.
As usual, Jamie Obrien has been totally owning Pipe, Backdoor and Off The wall, on any day that he chooses to paddle out. The guy can’t really do any wrong. His new film which is currently under production is incredible. He manager was telling me that there’s never been a surf film like this and if the movie trailer is anything to go by, it’s going to blow doors. You can see a preview of the film by visiting www.jamieobrien.com. Sunny Garcia who’s been on a bit of a solid roll this year in his quest for the triple crown, showed up late for his heat and was subsequently disqualified from surfing in his heat, despite the complete lack of waves ridden so far. Sunny had a lot of fans this year. heaps of crew getting behind his quest, so it was a real bummer for the ASP to do that to him. Mick Fanning grabbed the world title from under the nose of his best friend Parko at the Pipemasters. Gerry Lopez showed up for a heat with his buddy Rory Russel and Kelly took it all the way to the final, where a lack of quality waves came his way. Despite this, he put on an amazing display of surfing including a 20 foot floater and a carving 360, but it wasn’t enough to defeat Taj Burrow who was lucky enough to get the best waves 63
Big set at Waimea
Eddie would Go Event
I spy Laney Davey at Rocky Rights
throughout the heat. Pipe has had a spotty season at best. despite the constant run of swell throughout the season, Pipeline spent the large part of it hindered, by a large sandbar at Gummies, to the right of it. This sandbar was causing the waves to closeout where they’d normally still be barreling and generally was just a pain to have there, especially for such an extended amount of time. We had a good Pipe day very unexpectedly way back on Sept 25th. It was the day that young Carribean surfer Roger Moore (yes, you read it correctly) made a name for himself by going over the falls in most spectacular fashion, on a monster. Since then the Pipe masters and the Volcom pro took the only other decent days that have happened at the break this year. The local free surfers have had a tough time of it, getting amongst good quality Pipe. Sunset has definitely produced some vintage sessions this year for sure. early season produced a run of days in the 6-10 foot range with barely a breath of wind. Looking at it from the perspective that I had at the time, it looked so much like somewhere in Indonesia. Just as perfect as it could get. Of course, deeper into the season Sunset produced big testing 64
conditions pretty much for any event that dared to run there, this time round. A recent Stand Up Paddle event was held in such huge conditions that the competitors were taking off at Kammieland to get to the Sunset Bowl. Yeah, the swell was super west. They ended up calling it off after a couple of competitors nearly drowned in the monsterous conditions. It truly has been a vintage year for the big wave junkies though. Normally around here they’ll talk about “the wave that closed out the bay, back in....” This season we had dozens of waves close the Bay out and over several different days. The Eddie Aikau contest ceremony was a bit of an omen in itself. A solid 10-12 foot swell was running, so there were crew actually surfing at Baby Waimea while the Hawaiian voyage canoe the Hokule’a sat in silence out the back. The very same voyaging canoe which eddie was lost from, so many years ago. Some of Eddie’s boat mates watched the ceremony from the boat. Two mornings later and I’m standing on the beach in the early morning twilight, with an eye to capturing some cool portraits of the big wave stars as they head out. By now, everyone is well aware that we have a big swell happening, but they are strangely slow to show.
North Shore shaka style
Shane Dorian ready for Waimea
St. Peter and Paul’s Catholic Church overlooks Waimea Bay. Amen
Jay Adams and Buttons
Amazing though. I stood there from dark through twilight, then suddenly, they all appeared almost together. Tommy Carroll, Ross Clarke Jones, Kala Alexander, Greg Long, Twiggy Baker, Michael Ho, All these total complete legends, all frothing to get at it. It was a cool moment. I saw some nice waves ridden this day but man oh man, the lineup was very busy. Probably the biggest and busiest crew I’ve ever seen at Waimea. I saw Tommy Carroll get soooooo many waves that day. It may well have been one of his fave sessions out there. The poor guy blew his ankle out the following day in far larger and stormier conditions and was straight on the next flight back to Oz. It’s crazy how word of a possible Eddie start effects the north shore. Foe one, they were stating that the roads in and out of the north shore were going to be shut down due to expected water over the roads and stuff, so I arranged to stay at the Rip Curl house that evening, right at ground zero and on the bottom floor. It did take a while to get to sleep and I definitely heard a couple of waves hit the house. I got to Waimea real early like 5.00am because I know what a hassle it is to get parking if the Eddie pending. As it was, I parked at Chuns and walked back. I spoke to one guy who
walked 5 miles. First light revealed a stormy line-up that offered the added threat of the unknown due to water level shifting so much between waves. It was averaging 20 feet, but every now and then 2 waves would combine to produce a 30 footer. I saw a couple of waves like this throughout the morning and when I returned much later, those double ups had become more regular. Mark Healey and Shane Dorian both caught one of these waves, each totally hell bent on catching this wave, no matter the consequences and utterly oblivious to the others presence till they both stood at the bottom of a 25 foot close-out and laughed at each other as the wave mowed them down. Another such session went down on Jan 11th, but this time there were hardly any pro’s in the lineup because most of them were out of town, chasing the next conquest of the season for the most part. Many including a couple of lifeguards said this swell was actually bigger than the pre Eddie day and more consistent on the big ones. Certainly y photos are evident of some seriously big quality waves, this day. For many of those hard core underground big wave surfers, this was the day that they’d waited for perhaps 10 years. It was super quality, super sized 65
Waimea without the pros. A lot of those guys got the rides of their lives out there that day. I saw a lot of these waves with just one or two surfers on them too. Going back to December, they ran the Eddie the day after the really big day in greatly improved conditions. I had staked out my spot on the rocks in the early morning dark, after another 1 mile hike from Chuns and I recall hearing the already assembled crowd roar like a packed football stadium as the first surfer took off in the still dark twilight, such were the numbers of people already in the dark. I had actually set up in the dark at a place that I hadn’t shot from before. Turned out, the location was a bad choice and while I was carrying all my gear back to my usual spot, Kelly Slater pulled into a legitimate Waimea barrel. It was THE shot that I had seeked all these years and it happened right at the moment that I was not able to capture it. Of course I was disappointed, but what can you do. It was gone. I needn’t have been too concerned because he did it again in his later heat. Apparently during the earlier heat, Mark Healey had seen Kelly swing around to go for this wave and said to him “Pull in you pussy!”, so he did. Pretty much every wave Kelly caught after that, he was seeking the barrel. Jamie Obrien too chased the barrel like a huge, huge day at Backdoor, but failed just. Both surfers electing to stand entirely on the right side of their boards, in order to make the board do their bidding. It’s interesting to see that in the images. It sure has been an amazing season for the big stuff. Right now, I’m looking at about the tenth day in a row with howling trades and it’s the middle of March. Normally we’d be seeing this kind of weather in November. It’s definitely the coldest, it’s been in years here right now. My long time buddy Kye Fitzgerald like his dad is an awesome single fin surfer, seriously one of the best that I’ve seen. He was here for about 10 days recently and he brought under his arm, a quiver of awesome single fins, shaped by his dad. These things were surfboard porn. Along with Kai was his young protegee Max Tagliabue. This kid is a natural also on single fins. Really interesting to watch these guys surf. So much of single fin surfing is about style. A lot of people have openly called this the best season here on the north shore ever and I’m not about to challenge that notion at all. In my opinion this has been an absolute vintage season of seasons. 66
Nate Florence at Backdoor 67
Kahea Hart at Waimea Bay
John John Florence at Off The Wall 72
Josh Kerr at Off The Wall
Andy Irons at Backdoor Pipe
Kalani Robb at Rocky Point
Carissa Moore at Rocky Point
Dane Reynolds at the Pipemasters
Dustin Barca at Off The Wall
Photo by Ricardo Gibo
Interview by Ricardo Gibo
SH: Where did you start to surf ? RR: Since I grew up here in Hawaii, I learned to surf when I was 10 years old, as I was taught by the famous beach boy, Rabbit Kekai in Waikiki. I grew up on the South Shore and surfed Waikiki, the breaks on the South-East side of the island and when I graduated from Kalani High School, I moved to the North Shore after that.
likes of Dick Brewer, George Downing, Charlie Galanto and a number of others. I also competed in the armature ranks and when I was 17, I won the Hawaii State Surfing Championships and was consistently rated in the top 10 during the late 60â€™s and early 70â€™s. So, I was well versed in the ways of surfing competitions. The combination of working in the surfing industry and being involved in the competitive side of it grew and nurtured into a life-style that became my profession. That in turn has lead me to be involved in nearly all aspects of the surfing industry and life-style. Whether it being running events, traveling for pleasure, shaping surfboards, running Vintage Surf Auctions, working on surf films, or any other number of surf related endeavors.
SH: How have you become who you are now and how have you been able to walk the path you walk ? RR: Since I learned to surf at 10, I walked into my first surfboard factory when I was 11 years old. I was intoxicated by the smell of resin and I decided then and there, that I wanted to build surfboards. I got a job at a surf shop when I was 14 and I worked my way thru Junior and High School SH: Is Sunset your favorite spot to surf ? and in doing so, learned all about the process of RR: I lived up and down the North Shore from the surfboard manufacturing and tutored under the time I got out of High School, residing in Haleiwa, 84
SH: Who are the big name surfers in the world for you from way back then to now-the top 10 of all time ? RR: It’s hard to say who is the “best”. You really have to break it down into era’s. You have to realize that I have been surfing for 50 years, so I’ve seen so many good surfers and at any one time, someone is definitely the “best” of the bunch, but contemporary surfing is constantly changing, so you have to change with the times. If I was to name 10 best, I’d lean to those who surf the North Shore (there are plenty of good surfers who can surf other areas of the world) and I would also lean to those surfers who have surfed Sunset Beach well. I’d say in chronological order: Fred Hemmings (best competitive record of any Hawaiian surfer of the 60’s), Jock Sutherland (most innovative and complete surfer of the late 60’s), Jeff Hakman (Mr. Sunset, the most controlled surfer I’ve ever seen), Gerry Lopez (Mr. Pipeline who defined the essence of cool), Shaun Tomson (the first truly professional surfer), Dane Kealoha (Hawaii’s gift to power surfing), Tom Carroll (the best backsider at Sunset), Gary Elkerton (the best frontsider at Sunset Beach), Sunny Garcia (the most versatile surfer on the North Shore), Andy Irons (the best all around surfer on the North Shore) and Kelly Slater (although he has never won a contest at Sunset, he isn’t a nine time world champ for nothing ! ). SH: Where was the best surf trip you ever went on that one trip you will never forget ? What do you think is the best country to surf/travel ? RR: I have had the pleasure of traveling to over 140 countries in the world? and surfing in over 70 of them.? There is now a thriving surf industry in
Photo by Ricardo Gibo
Kawela Bay and Laniakea. But, I always liked to surf Sunset the best and in 1975 I found a house to live in right in front of Sunset and rented it for ten years and finally bought it in 1985 and have been in the same house for the last thirty-five years. It is a 30 second walk to the beach and I look right out at Sunset, so for me it is heaven to live in front of what I consider the best wave on the North Shore. I surf everything from one foot Val’s Reef, to Sunset Point, to the middle until it closes out. So, it is the perfect spot from one foot to eighteen foot ! So, to say the least, it is my favorite spot !
virtually every rideable?country in the world.? For me, my favorite destination is Africa.? I’ve been to South?Africa 24 times and?up and down?both the West and East?coasts of Africa, but one of my best memories was a trip way back in 1971, when I got 15’ Jeffrey’s Bay and closed out Cape St. Francis.? You can’t beat Hawaii for the surf, weather, and environment!? But, since I live here, if I travel, it’s hard to beat Indo for consistent surf, and as already mentioned, I like Africa for travel experiences.? SH: How has the surfing world changed from the beginning? What is different about the surf industry now?? RR: 50 years ago, surfers were a small tribe and to be one, was considered somewhat unique.? Now, with all the marketing and the growth of the industry, it has gone much more main stream and of course?it is tremendously more crowded because of it.? It is good and bad.? The good is all 85
Photo by Bruno Lemos
the advances in equipment, apparel, wet suits, accessories, all of which add to enhancing?the surfing experience.? The bad is the crowds and ego hype that comes with the promotion of the?sport.?
is no “best”, but rather those who are dedicated to making really good equipment that ride waves really good ! I like anyone who takes the time to pick up a plainer and put their heart into making the best board they can !
SH: You have lots of boards at your house and I want to know if you’re making a collection or have a favorite shaper?? RR: I have been a shaper since the late 60’s with over 12,000 boards to my credit, so obviously most of the boards I have are my own shapes. But, I love to ride other shapers boards and have a number of collectable boards that were shaped for me by famous shapers. In today’s world, shapers are much like the surfers themselves, they come and go with contemporary surfing. There are classic shapers like Dick Brewer, Bob McTavish, Ben Aipa, who have been around a long time and are still making great shapes. Then you have more contemporary shapers like Carl Schaper, Jeff Bushman, Eric Arakawa and others who make beautiful modern equipment. Like surfers, there
SH: Do you take care of other contests (like ASP) or just Vans Triple Crown ? RR: The Triple Crown series of events are my bread and butter events, but I do work on other events around the world from time to time. As the ASP International regional rep for Hawaii, I go to a number of international events and I also help facilitate some of the smaller ASP events here in Hawaii as well as help with the “Eddie”. SH: Congratulations on winning the contest in Haleiwa ! How was the contest ? RR: Since we finished the Triple Crown events five days early this year, I had the time over Christmas Vacation to enter the HIO event at Haleiwa. That was the first time I had surfed in the event in about 10 years, as usually we take the Triple Crown right
up to just before Christmas and I don’t have time to do the event. But, this year with finishing early, we got most of the equipment put away and wound down from the Pipeline Masters, so I had time to go down and have fun at Haleiwa. Waves were good and I won the Longboard Division and got third in the Short Board division, so it was fun to put a jersey on and remember what it was like to compete for myself ! All the guys running the contest thought it was funny for me to be surfing in an event, instead of running one ! SH: How was the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing get started ? RR: Back in 1983 the ruling body for pro surfing was International Professional Surfing or IPS for short. Due to politics, the IPS was replaced by the Association of Surfing Professionals (ASP) and the tour ending was moved from Hawaii to Australia. For this reason, the three main events on the North Shore were tied together into a series that became know as the “Triple Crown of Surfing” and since there was not going to be a World Title decided on the North Shore, we wanted to have a title to determine who the best competitive surfer was over the three event series. Thus, the Triple Crown was born and it has been going for 27 years now ! SH: How do you keep in shape or what do you do for training to ride during winter time ? RR: I pretty much just surf. Living at Sunset Beach, it’s easy to just go out for an hour and get some exercise. Even if the waves are junk, I’ll usually go for a paddle and get in an hour of exercise and that is pretty much it. I usually travel in the summer when it’s flat, so I try to surf all year around. SH: Besides surfing do you have other hobbies ? RR: I’m a real NASCAR fan, so love to watch the NASCAR races every Sunday morning and I try to attend between one to three races a year on the mainland. I usually tie in a trip with a stop over at one of the races and it’s really fun to see how professional auto sports are, compared to professional surfing. I’ve met a number of the drivers and we even brought a couple of them out to the North Shore about four years ago and taught them how to surf and they watched the
Pipeline Masters. SH: What do you see for the future of surfing and the Triple Crown of surfing ? RR: This year was our biggest year yet, with a combined purse of $1 Million dollars. I think as long as the economy of the surf industry is good, you will continue to see surfing grow. I see the Vans Triple Crown growing from strength to strength. SH: What motto’s do you live by ? RR: If you show respect, you will get respect. If you want people to like you, you need to like them. It’s so much nicer to be nice to people than to be a hard ass. There is something good in everyone and if you seek out that good, everyone benefits. SH: Any last words to all who want to listen ? Food for thought. RR: As my motto’s might indicate, I try really hard to find the best in everyone I deal with. Can you image what a wonderful world it would be, if you never swore at anyone, if you helped everyone, if you gave all you could to better ones existence, if you never dropped in on anyone, if you never gave anyone stink eye, if you tried really hard to never be negative ? Just think what it would be like if everyone was “Up” and you never had to deal with people who are on a “downer” ? Think about it ! Surfing is the greatest experience in the world. For those that have experienced it, you will know what I mean. As the saying goes, “only a surfer knows the feeling”. Be glad you are a surfer... It is a gift to be cherished and shared with pride !
Photo by Bruno Lemos 87
Interview by Leila Maghanoy photo: Sean Davey
photo: Sean Davey
photo: Bruno Lemos
SH: How do you prepare for big wave riding ? IK: My whole deal with training and getting prepared is all in the mind. But I do a lot of down wind paddle sprints, and some run sprints. I usually try to up my heart or make myself super exhausted then control my breaths. But most of it is mental. Knowledge in dangerous conditions is what makes me comfortable when put through it. SH: When did you start surfing and where ? IK: I started surfing when i was 5 years old, on the Big Island, at a spot called Drain Pipes, on the east side of the Big Island. Made it to Makaha at a young age as well. SH: When did you start SUP ? IK: I first started SUP like 8 years ago at Makaha. But, I’ve been really getting into it for like 6 years now. SH: What was the biggest wave you rode ? IK: Towing, I’d say the biggest wave that i rode, like 6088
70 ft. face. I’d call it personally 30 feet plus. Definitely at Peahi on Maui. SUP, probably like 18-20 ft. wave solid at Makaha. SH: What are your life accomplishments ? IK: Surfing, I’d say surfing Peahi anytime when its big. It is a big accomplishment and a highlight. Maybe my tow-in wins, one in Maui 2003, Jaws expression session, and 2007 north shore tow-in championships. For me its those special days you get when no one is there to witness but yourself and a tight group of friends. SH: What advice do you have for those who want to start big wave surfing ? IK: Know your limits. Start at something comfortable first then build your way up. Don’t just try to be a big wave dave. Ability and confidence first. Be respectful of the ocean. It’s not a game out there. Specially when its big. SH: Where is your favorite surf spot ?
photo: Sean Davey
IK: My favorite spot would have to be Teahupoo in Tahiti, for its absolute perfection in every wave. But i have so many favorite waves around the world. Pipeline as well. SH: What size board do you like to ride ? IK: That’s a hard one for me. I like to ride all kinds of stuff. I’ve been getting all weird with what, I’ve been riding in odd conditions, ha, ha... Fishes, shortboards, SUP’s, alaia’s, towboards. If I had to choose, it would be a 5’8” twin fin flute fish, 6’1” JS shortboard, 9’3” ripper SUP, 6’0” alaia, and a 5’4” towboard. SH: Who is your favorite shaper for big wave boards ? IK: Blane chambers (Paddle Surf Hawaii) makes the best stand up boards period. As for regular guns I been riding some stretch boards, they’ve been working really well. SH: What do you hope for the future of our younger generations ? IK: I really want to see surfing raise to a sport equal to major league sports or even bigger. More media. I hope for the youth to get what they deserve in life, specially as young surfers, young hawaiian surfers. SH: What are your hobbies ? IK: I’m a waterman. I really love to fish. I’m fishing everyday I’m not surfing, seriously, either with a pole, throw net, diving. I just love to stay active and what is
there better to do than do your training, catch food, relax and have fun surfing all in the ocean. So i’m usually doing ocean sports. SH: What sayings do you live by ? IK: Actions speak louder than words. And be humble. SH: What are your future goals ? IK: Right now I’m doing this stand up world tour in the making. So I’ll try to get some results. Hopefully get into some big wave events around the world. And just enjoy my life, wave after wave. Bigger, better, barrels... SH: Who is your favorite legend surfer ? IK: My favorite all time legend is Buffalo Keaulana. If no one heard of him, he’s da best waterman ever, uncle Buff’s da man. SH: Who is the best surfer today ? IK: I’d have to say the best surfer of all time is Kelly Slater. We all know that. But in my eyes its those surfers that really have no limit to what they can surf. They can ride anything. Recently I’ve been seeing this as a sport. Kids being able to not just ride but kill anything they rid. and I think that’s what you can call a best surfer. Can you think of a professional surfer now that can rip on a longboard, shortboard, bodyboard, alaia board, SUP... and dominate the line up on all ? SH: Any last words ? IK: Mahalo to all who support my surfing... let’s go ! 89
*DEULHOD1DJHO Surfaholic's Featured Girl interview by Leila Maghanoy
SH: Tell me your age and where were you born ? GN: I am from Brazil and I have 21 years old. SH: When did you start boggie boarding ? GN: Not that long ago. It s been 3 years. SH: Where is your favorite surf spot ? GN: I started surfing at V- land, but now my favorite feel alone. The good thing is the paradise I get to spot is rocky lefts. live at, without violence, not much poverty, and the SH: Who is your favorite surfer you see ripping on beautiful people I meet from all over the world. the North Shore, Oahu ? SH: What do you like to do when there is no surf ? GN: Derek Ho. He will always be a legend. GN: I like to work out, go to the beach to swim and SH: How long have you been living on the North get some tan, and hang out with my friends. Shore ? SH: How do you keep fit how do you train daily ? GN: 5 years. GN: I go to the gym 3 times a week. If there is some SH: Tell me things you will never forget about the time that I don’t go I feel very weak. The food in America is very fat with plenty hormones. That’s why North Shore ? GN: The waves and the wipe outs. The nature I can never stop working out, otherwise everything in general, such as the water falls, volcanos, the falls down ! He, he, he. beautiful sunset on the ocean, and the culture - the SH: What are your favorite things to eat ? aloha spirit, which reminds me Brazil. GN: Poke and Poi. SH: What is your best party time on the North SH: How many boyfriends did you have living here ? Shore ? GN: Ha, ha, ha ! Every time ! For me if you are GN: One-surfer Kahea Hart. surrounded of people you love, with good energy, SH: What is your favorite kind music ? you’ll always have fun. We make the party ! GN: I can listen to any kind, but my favorite ones are SH: What are the good and bad things about living house-electro, rap, and reggae . on the North Shore ? GN: For me, the bad thing is that I am away from SH: What are your dreams in life ? my family and people that I love, so sometimes I GN: My dream in life is to study a lot, be successful, and make a lot of money to support my family. In addition, travel all over the world to surf different waves and meet different cultures. SH: Any words to the readers and supporters of Surfaholic Magazine ? GN: Love and live. Life is to short to be wasted on bullshit. Live the moment with intensity, have good thoughts. In addition, We gotta find our inner peace. We are all in the same place, and nobody is better than anybody. What goes around comes around is the way I think, and that’s the way I am, this is the way I live. Only God can judge me. I love Surfaholic Magazine ! 91
Liam Macnamara photo: Bruno Lemos
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Cory Lopez photo: Sean Davey
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photo by Sean Davey
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