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IDAHO MOUNTAIN EXPRESS

GUIDE

WINTER 2011/12

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the

FUTURE of sun valley

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2086

THE PLAYBOY, THE NAZI THE RAILROAD

Call 928-6039, click www.cox.com or come in — 105 Lewis Street in Ketchum, ID.

MAPS

2/11/11 11:43 AM

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DINING

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OUTFITTERS

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FA M I LY O W N E D & O P E R AT E D F O R T H R E E G E N E R AT I O N S

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contents FEA

TUR

ES

12 The Count of Sun Valley

A profile of Felix Schaffgotsch, the man who found Averell Harriman a valley in the sun.

PHOTO BY KARL WEATHERLY

By Jennifer Tuohy

16 Visions for Sun Valley: 2086

Community leaders lend us their crystal balls.

By Rebecca Meany REG

UL

ARS

18 Valley View

Sun Valley’s terrain park comes of age By Jennifer Tuohy

10 You Are Here Choose your Sun Valley adventures with our winter map By Evelyn Phillips

32 Calendar A rundown of the season’s events By Jennifer Liebrum

34 Gear Up New innovations for winter sports By Greg Moore

38 Sun Valley Social

20 Sirens of the Backcountry

Hungry for new skiing terrain, a group of valley women bond on the uphill.

By Robin Sias

24 High Times at Glamour House

How Sun Valley Lodge helped Ernest Hemingway become one of America’s greatest writers.

By Gregory Foley

Relive this summer’s party scene By Willy Cook, David N. Seelig & Roland Lane

30 The Guide

30 Galleries 32 Winter Activities 33 Equipment rentals 33 Outfitters 33 Lodging 35 Dining 4

w i n te r 2 011/ 12 • s u n va l l ey g u i d e


from the editor

LEAP INTO THE FUTURE, with a step into the past. future-embracing terrain park in 2011, I landed with a bump in a murky, but strangely rosecolored Sun Valley, 2086. It’s been quite a ride, one that I hope you will enjoy as much as I have. Taking this journey through snippets of Sun Valley’s past, present and future opened up some interesting perspectives on the challenges our valley faces today, 75 years after Count Felix Schaffgotsch first shone a light on a once-sleepy mining town. As I dug through dusty papers and pieced together faintly recalled threads of conversation to bring the count’s story to life, I found the words he used to describe his great discovery:

“This combines more delightful features than any place I have seen in the United States, Switzerland or Austria, for a winter sports resort. Its great assets are: An ideal situation in a small basin surrounded by perfect mountains, hills and slopes. ... Brilliant sunshine with frequent snow falls giving constant powder during a long season. ... Far away from any big town. … any amount of wonderful runs and excursions, long and short.” Count Felix thought this place was special. He chose Sun Valley over Lake Tahoe, Aspen, Park City and just about every other area in the West that has since become a bona fide ski resort. If there is one thing to take from the past with us into the future it is this: Sun Valley is indeed small, isolated and challenging to access. But if it were none of those things, it would not exist. While today’s cultural and economic landscape is significantly different from that which Schaffgotsch catered to in 1936, the allure of Sun Valley still lies in its small-town charm, proximity to the wilderness and offthe-beaten-path appeal. Let’s embrace what made us special yesterday, and hopefully all our tomorrows will be safe.

Jennifer Tuohy, Editor-in-Chief

demo the best brands on the planet from the valley’s largest fleet!

est. 1948 sturtos.com main street ketchum 6

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PHOTO BY DAVID N. SEELIG

C

reating this issue has been an adventure in time travel. I found myself charging through the 1930s with a charming count on a quest for America’s first destination ski resort, skiing in the Sawtooth Mountains (circa 2010) with only chocolate-eating, wine-swilling women to guide me, then descending through six decades to simper at Hemingway over martinis in his Glamour House. And I wasn’t done yet. After spinning high above Dollar Mountain’s

base of warm springs

+

main street hailey

l o n g i rossrdica no on m o l a s cher fis fit dynagik ski -lotar s a n y d olkl v le t s a k ne li t l i t l ful ont 4fr

w i n te r 2 011/ 12 • s u n va l l ey g u i d e


GUIDE

DISCOVER MOUNTAIN LIFE

PUBLISHER Pam Morris EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jennifer Tuohy editor@svguide.com

reta i l

&

compoundi ng

ph armacy

allergy relief

ART DIRECTOR Tony Barriatua COPY EDITOR Barbara Perkins

flu shots

CONTRIBUTING Gregory Foley WRITERS Jennifer Liebrum Greg Moore Rebecca Meany Robin Sias

walk-ins welcome

hormone replacement

GRAPHIC DESIGNERS Erik Elison Kristen Kaiser Gavin McNeil

accept insurance

WEB SITE DESIGN Chris Seldon CHIEF PHOTOGRAPHER David N. Seelig CONTRIBUTING Willy Cook PHOTOGRAPHERS Roland Lane Mark Oliver Joe St. Onge Tal Roberts Karl Weatherly BUSINESS MANAGER Connie Johnson MARKETING/SALES Ben Varner DIRECTOR advertising@svguide.com SENIOR ACCOUNT EXEC William Pattnosh ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Gayle Kerr Irene Robinson Jerry Seiffert Matt Ward

C OV E R P H O T O B Y M A R K O L I V E R Chris Logan boosts a right side 720 on the Volcano, a special feature built for Dollar Mountain terrain park in early 2011.

MAGGIE AWARDS Western Publications Association Best 3-Time Consumer Magazine—Winner 2011 Best 3-Time Consumer Magazine—Finalist 2010 Best News Story/Consumer Magazine—Finalist 2009

IDAHO PRESS CLUB AWARDS 2010 1st place, General Excellence: Winter 2010/11 1st place, Serious Feature: Jason D.B. Kauffman 1st place, Light Feature: Trevon Milliard 1st place, Light Feature: Van Gordon Sauter & Jennifer Tuohy 1st place, Magazine Column: Van Gordon Sauter 1st place, Magazine Cover: Tony Barriatua 1st place, Web Site: Colin McCauley

IDAHO PRESS CLUB AWARDS 2009 1st place, General Excellence 1st place, Web Site General Excellence 1st place, Magazine Cover 1st, 2nd & 3rd place, Light Feature 1st, 2nd & 3rd place, Magazine Column

The Sun Valley Guide magazine is published quarterly by Express Publishing Inc., P.O. Box 1013, Ketchum, ID 83340. For advertising and content information or to request copies of the magazine, call 208.726.8060 or email editor@sunvalleyguide.com ©2011 Express Publishing Inc. Find us online at www.sunvalleyguide.com www.svguide.com/subs to subscribe

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valley view

P L AY F UL T E R R A I N

The terrain is changing at Sun Valley as the resort gets ready PHOTO BY TAL ROBERTS

for the future. Three-year-old Dollar Mountain terrain park—which has quickly become the hottest, hippest spot on campus—is graduating to the big leagues. Get ready to jib, tap and stall as a new jump line has been installed and 20 new rails are just waiting to be buttered. An added bonus, the halfpipe moves to Dollar from Bald Mountain. “Now we finally have a complete terrain park pod, with a halfpipe, jumps, rails and jibs all in the same place,” said Brian Callahan, terrain park manager for the resort. The pod consists of a small, medium and large park each aimed at different skill levels. It is open to all ages and abilities but has proven to be a magnet for youth. “Kids who left home

T O A IR I S HUM A N PARKS AND PLAYGROUNDS FOR THE YOUNG AT HEART

BY JENNIFER TUOHY PHOTOS BY TAL ROBERTS AND MARK OLIVER

to find terrain parks are now coming back home because of the terrain park,” Callahan said with justifiable pride. The Sun Valley Cross Course, one of only a handful in the country, rounds out the diminutive mountain’s oversized offerings. And it’s all included in the price of a lift ticket. The resort’s push for youth and family hasn’t passed by Baldy. PHOTO BY TAL ROBERTS

The venerable mountain has had a small nip and tuck, making way for six new adventure trails aimed at the young and the young at heart. These simple, gladed runs—with cute names like Redheaded Woodpecker, Foxy Forest and Huckleberry Bear— have been created in areas off Broadway, Olympic Ridge, Lower College, French Dip and Warm Springs. They offer children gentler routes from their speedster parents, with each of the interpretive serpentine trails connecting back to the run they left for a safe reunion with the old folks. 8

w i n te r 2 011/ 12 • s u n va l l ey g u i d e


PHOTO BY MARK OLIVER

THE KIDS COME HOME

“KIDS WHO LEFT HOME TO FIND TERRAIN PARKS ARE NOW COMING BACK HOME BECAUSE OF THE TERRAIN PARK.” —BRIAN CALLAHAN

9


you are here

W I N T E R [by Evelyn Phillips]

10

w i n te r 2 011/ 12 • s u n va l l ey g u i d e


Fine Jewelry Watches Engraving Wedding Registry Gifts

choose your own

ADVENTURE Tricked-out terrain parks and gladed adventure trails are just the newest additions to the abundance of winter recreation opportunities in the Sun Valley area. Find your favorite on our activity map and get out there and enjoy. www.sunvalleyguide.com

511 Sun Valley Road Ketchum, Idaho 800-889-9424 208-726-5202 www.barrypeterson.com 11


75

T H E

COUNT O F

S U N

V A L L E Y

The cross-continental friendship between an Austrian Nazi nobleman and a millionaire New Yorker brought Sun Valley to life, but a mere six years later their alliance crumbled on the muddy battlefields of World War II. Jennifer Tuohy reveals the untold story of Count Felix Schaffgotsch, the man who discovered Sun Valley.

o

ne winter morning in 1936, Marvin Obenchain strapped on a pair of large wooden skis and made his way from his home on the corner of Sixth and Main in Ketchum, Idaho to the town’s post office. There the 21-year-old helped the mail carrier load his heavy parcels and drive them to the depot to wait for the train. Winter was a quiet time in Ketchum, employment was scarce and Obenchain hoped the train, arriving after an eight day hiatus, would bring with it some opportunity. As the engine pulled into town, disrupting the silent white landscape, Obenchain watched a tall young man step down into the deep snow. While he didn’t know it then, opportunity had indeed arrived—both for him and the small mining town he called home. “He asked the depot agent if he could call a taxi,” recalled Obenchain in a three-page memoir he wrote before his death in 2005. “The agent said there’s no such thing but the mail carrier would probably give him a ride to town.” Obenchain loaded the man’s luggage, which he noted included some very unusual-looking skis. “As we drove toward town he was really looking at the surroundings,” he said. Leaving the stranger and his bags at the town’s only hotel, the Bald Mountain Inn & Hot Springs, Obenchain went home wondering why he had come here. The next day the man asked if anyone could go with him on skis to tour the area. Obenchain obliged. “The fi rst morning we climbed the back side of what became Dollar Mountain,” he wrote. “He looked the area over, and we skied down across Elk Horn and up the mountain toward East Fork. ... The next morning we hiked on the hot water line to Guyer Hot Springs and skied the area below Dollar Lake. “Then it was back to the top of Dollar Mountain before sun up [to] watch where the fi rst rays hit the valley or field below. After a few mornings of doing that we skied down and as we crossed Trail Creek he asked me to fi nd a good sized piece of tree, which I carried out into the field. It was placed where he thought was where the fi rst rays of sun hit each morning.”

PHOTOS COURTESY THE COMMUNITY LIBRARY, REGIONAL HISTORY DEPARTMENT

THE

T LAS


The man never told Obenchain what he had in mind, but he found out later that the tree marked the location of the foundations of Sun Valley Lodge. The man was Count Felix Schaffgotsch. Tales of his fi rst visit to Ketchum vary wildly, depending on the age and perspective of the teller, but one thing is certain: the count arrived in Ketchum on January 16, 1936, and changed the sleepy little town forever. Born in Enns, Austria, on February 16, 1904, Schaffgotsch was descended from the 17th-century Bohemian Count John Ernest Schaffgotsche. He was part of the last generation of the Bohemian Schaffgotsche family, one of the oldest noble Silesian families, Silesia was a historical region of Central Europe, located mainly in Poland. Schaffgotsch’s parents, Franz de Paula and Aglae Witt gt von Dorring, were part of the Lower Austrian line of the family, the second wealthiest in the region before World War I. After World War II, most members of the ethnic German Schaffgotsch family were expelled from their homes in Austria. Schaffgotsch grew up in Altmünster, a small market town in Upper Austria. It was here, probably in the 1920s, he first encountered Averell Harriman. The millionaire playboy from America rented a hunting cottage from the Schaffgotschs to shoot chamois—a goatantelope species native to mountains in Europe. By 1930, the Schaffgotschs were either in need of some distraction for their exuberant second son or he had determined to strike out on his own. Either way, they called upon their wealthy American acquaintance to find the 26-year-old count some gainful employment. On December 3, Schaffgotsch sailed into New York on the S.S. Majestic from Southampton, England. The passenger list from that voyage lists his occupation as “nil,” but he quickly became ensconced as a clerk at the private banking firm of Brown Brothers Harriman in Manhattan. It’s easy to picture Harriman in the gentlemanly confines of a private bank relaxing with a brandy and cigar in hand, listening to the enthusiastic count tell tales of the fantastic sport of skiing that was sweeping the Alps. Harriman, who never set foot on skis until he built Sun Valley, was first and foremost a businessman. Newly installed as chairman of Union Pacific Railroad, his interest was piqued by the dashing count’s www.sunvalleyguide.com

Felix Schaffgotsch and Averell Harriman stand in front of Sun Valley Lodge in 1936.

stories of railroads that ran special ski trains, transporting passengers from the English Channel to Austria’s ski towns. Harriman was intrigued enough to have Union Pacific commission a report on the viability of such an industry in the United States. Through an analysis of the increased sales in ski merchandise from department stores, the report determined that there was a clear appetite for skiing among Americans. However, people weren’t skiing in America. In the 1934-35 winter the report found 8,600 Americans had traveled to Europe to ski, in part because “snow conditions, weather conditions, terrain, and hotel accommodations are generally unsatisfactory at practically all existing American resorts.” It went on to conclude that “it is practically impossible to fi nd fi rst class skiing conditions at any existing winter resort in the U.S.” Harriman was sold. His fi rst big venture as chairman of America’s largest rail company was to be building the country a world-class ski resort. But fi rst he had to determine where to put it. Logically, he turned to the man who had told him of the wonders of the ski industry in Austria. By all accounts, Schaffgotsch was a dashing, handsome and charming man. Fashion photographer Toni Frissell wrote in her memoirs of a chance encounter with the count while skiing in the Alps. “‘Good morning,’ the young Austrian said from his prone position on top of me,” she wrote. “‘I was so fascinated watching your skiing gyrations that I forgot to get out of your way. You could have killed us both. My name is Count Felix Schaffgotsch.’” U.S. Forest Service Recreational Supervisor Alf Engen, who toured Schaffgotsch through the Wasatch Mountains in Utah, recalled him as “very personable. Arrogant, or very, I would say, brilliant, yes. And he was a count. ... He wore his title well.” That he was an impressive man is clear, but his talents as a skier were less so. Contemporary newspaper reports described him as a “famed international sportsman,” “an expert skier” and “one of the greatest known ski riders among his people.” None of that was true. Harriman spelled it out in an oral history recorded by The Community Library in Ketchum in 1983. “I employed Count Felix Schaffgotsch, who was an Austrian, not so expert in skiing, but he’d had a lot to do with development of resorts in Austria.” Friedl Pfeifer, who took over the ski school at Sun Valley in 1938, posited in his autobiography Nice Goin’, that Harriman got Felix confused with his younger brother, Count Friedrich, an experienced ski instructor at St. Anton (the famous Austrian ski school where Pfeifer trained). “Somehow the wires got crossed,” he wrote. “Instead of the very qualified Count Friedrich, Harriman acquired the very sociable Count Felix.” However, Harriman knew Felix from his time at Brown Brothers Harriman, and it is probable he got the brother he wanted. Harriman’s oft-repeated reasoning behind the idea for Sun Valley was that “I found my banker-friends went off skiing in the wintertime to places like St. Moritz, and in Austria in the mountains.” Felix 13


Schaffgotsch, fourth from right, stands with the ski school he created, including Hans Hauser, Alfred Dingl, Franz Epp, Roland Cossman, Joseph Schwenighofer and Sepp Benediktor.

The fi rst stop was Tacoma, Washington. Arriving at Mount Rainier’s Paradise Lodge on December 2, Schaffgotsch spent two days skiing before traveling south to Portland to inspect Mount Hood. In typical Portland style, it rained. A lot. So much so that the Count never even left his car. “It was beautiful,” he said of Portland. “But nowhere was there any snow except slush.” Next he traveled inland to Yosemite National Park in California, where his friend Hannes Schroll was in charge of the ski school. But the weekend crowds pouring in from the nearby cities, which had blighted Mount Rainier for the count, were equally prevalent in Yosemite. “You can’t take the mountain from the people,” he said to Schroll. And off he went to explore the 14

San Bernardino Mountains in Southern California, spending Christmas in Los Angeles. Next it was north to Lake Tahoe on the California-Nevada border, where he determined the nonstop blizzards would keep skiers indoors. Then over to Reno, Nevada, across the desert to Utah’s Zion National Park and up to Cedar City (not enough snow). From southern Utah, he journeyed to central Colorado where he explored Rocky Mountain National Park near Denver, Berthoud Pass (too cold and windy), Steamboat Springs (too high) and Aspen (too many trees). So, Schaffgotsch returned to Utah empty-handed, and set out hopefully to investigate the mountain towns around Salt Lake City, including Brighton and Alta (too close to Salt Lake City), Ogden Canyon, the Caho Region and the Uinta Mountains on the Utah-Wyoming border. On New Year’s Day 1936, he wrote to Harriman from Salt Lake’s Hotel Utah, “After I have seen all the developed resorts, as Rainier, Hood, Yosemite, and Lake Arrowhead, I was a bit nervous that I would not be able to fi nd the right place, because all these resorts are not offering much in the way of skiing. But I certainly am confident now, since I have seen this country here, to fi nd you a perfect spot, which will compare very favorably to all the resorts we have in Switzerland and Austria.” But by January the perfect spot still eluded him, and he headed dispiritedly to the last state on his list, Idaho. William Hynes, a Union Pacific freight agent (who said later he hadn’t known “a damn thing about what the hell a ski resort was”), met the count in Pocatello. They traveled to Victor and took a sleigh through Teton Pass to see Jackson Hole in Wyoming. The count was thrilled with what he saw. “Up there are the best snow conditions I have seen in all my life,” he said to Harriman. Sadly for Wyoming, the state refused to keep the pass open in winter, and any other approach was too far from a Union Pacific railroad. After a brief trip to Spence, Idaho, the count parted ways with Hynes and prepared to return East, failed in his quest. But his parting words to Hynes—“If you fi nd anything, let me know”—stayed with the weary railroad man. Retreating to the Locker Club in Boise for a drink with his friend Joe Stemmer, director of Idaho’s Highways Department, Hynes told the tale of his adventures with the Austrian. Stemmer considered for a moment and then said, “Did you look in the Hailey and Ketchum area?” Hynes, who, according to Maury Klein’s Union Pacific: Volume II, 1894-1969, had only been to the area once, in the summertime, exclaimed, “By God no, I forgot.” He immediately wired Schaffgotsch, who was at the Brown Palace in Denver, telling him to meet him in Shoshone. From there the district engineer of highways Matt Johnson attempted to get the travelers up to Ketchum by road. According to Dorice Taylor’s Sun Valley, as the trio descended Timmerman Hill into the Wood River Valley they skidded off the road into a snowdrift. An hour later, as they followed the plow that pulled them out into the southern Wood River Valley, the count’s disappointment was palpable. “This valley is too wide. Too wide,” he said. Arriving in Hailey they were forced to wait out the storm for the night. A young girl, Roberta Brass, also waited in town, hoping to get back to her family’s ranch just east of Ketchum. The next morning, January 16, 1936, Roberta boarded a northbound bus. “There was a very good-looking gentleman sitting next to me,” Brass later recalled. He “had quite a foreign accent.” Whether Schaffgotsch arrived by bus, as Roberta remembers, or train, as Obenchain recalls, the fact is he arrived and found what he was looking for. On his last day in Ketchum, returning from his explorations to wire Harriman the words w i n te r 2 011/ 12 • s u n va l l ey g u i d e

PHOTOS COURTESY THE COMMUNITY LIBRARY, REGIONAL HISTORY DEPARTMENT (THIS PAGE), SUN VALLEY RESORT ARCHIVES (OPPOSITE PAGE)

Schaffgotsch was certainly one of those banker-friends. However it came about, the now 31-yearold count—who had returned to Austria following his spell in private banking—left his home in Altmünster for Harriman once again, arriving in New York on November 23, 1935. From New York he journeyed to Union Pacific Headquarters in Omaha, Nebraska, where he began a six-week, 7,000-mile odyssey, zigzagging across the mountains of the western United States. He carried with him a mandate from Harriman to fi nd “A place close to Union Pacific tracks but far enough from a city to prevent it being overrun by weekend skiers arriving in their automobiles. … A valley with sun pouring in, a dry climate with not too much snow, and yet enough for skiing. …” Of course it had to be powder snow and “not too wet or too much of it.”


“A handsome and affable Graf, he was also a dyedin-the-wool Nazi.” —David Niven

Schaffgotsch, who was adept at charming Hollywood’s elite, escorts actress Madeleine Carol into the lodge, January 1936.

“You can’t take the mountain from the people.”

—Felix Schaffgotsch

“Place perfect,” he ran into Miss Brass once again. Sitting on a corral fence between her family’s ranch and the town of Ketchum, she watched the count ski up to her on his fancy, skinny skis. “I found just the place to put the Lodge,” he said. “This is the most beautiful valley I’ve been in and I’ve been to Canada, I’ve been to Colorado. This is it, this is where Union Pacific is going to put in a ski resort.” The valley he referred to was her family’s ranch. The look on Brass’s face was likely priceless, especially when the count continued on, “Next year at this time there will be a thousand people here.” Eleven months later, on December 21, 1936, Sun Valley Lodge opened its doors. He may have succeeded at Harriman’s request, but Schaffgotsch’s journeying days were far from over. Harriman immediately sent him back to Austria to recruit for Sun Valley’s fi rst ski school. There he hand-picked Joseph “Sepp” Benediktor, Hans Hauser, Alfred Dingl, Roland Cossman, Franz Epp and Joe Schwenighofer. On the return journey Schaffgotsch met the British actor David Niven, who recalled the meeting in his autobiography The Moon’s a Balloon. “He was on his way to Sun Valley, Idaho, where, at the request of Averell Harriman, he had designed and built a new ski resort. A handsome and affable Graf, he was also a dyed-in-the-wool Nazi. He spent hours extolling the virtues of Hitler, sympathising with his problems and enthusing over his plans.” Despite their political differences, Schaffgotsch and Niven struck up a close friendship. Niven promised to come visit the count at his new resort and meet the fabled ski instructors, whom Schaffgotsch assured Niven were “all Nazis too.” Harriman put this affi nity with celebrities to good use, dispatching the affable count on a recruiting trip to Hollywood. This telegram, sent to Gary Cooper, went out to many a member of Hollywood’s royalty: “I have asked Count Schaffgotsch, the boy who discovered ‘Sun Valley,’ to get in touch with you while he is in Hollywood and tell you about recent developments at our new Idaho winter resort,” Harriman wrote. Niven made good on his promise to Schaffgotsch, visiting Sun Valley the following winter. “The skiing was perfect and I had a wonderful six weeks. Felix had made a huge success of it,” wrote Niven. “Given half a chance he was still liable to lay down the law about Lebensraum, but he was a most agreeable companion.” This was late 1938, and as the world hurtled toward World War II, Schaffgotsch’s political propensities and that of his friend and boss, Averell Harriman, were on a collision course. Having successfully launched America’s first destination ski resort, Harriman now turned his abundant energies and unlimited resources to pulling America into the war, despite the established view in Washington that any venture into Europe’s war could be disastrous and financially crippling. Harriman quickly insinuated himself into Roosevelt’s Continued on page 28

www.sunvalleyguide.com

FRIEDMAN MEMORIAL AIRPORT

Good Neighbor Flying Program ...Is in effect. Preferred hours of operation

7:00 a.m. to 11:00 p.m.

Arrival and departure paths, aircraft warm-up locations and time frames are all addressed in the Voluntary Noise Abatement Brochure. Please make certain that your pilot has a copy of this brochure on board. Thank you!

24-hour Airport Noise Abatement Center (208) 788-4956 Airport Manager's Office

www.flysunairport.com 15


THE

T NEX

75

2086 When Count Felix Schaffgotsch summitted Dollar Mountain on a crisp January morning in 1936, he knew he had found what he was looking for. He also knew that his visit would transform the struggling valley beneath him beyond recognition. But could he have imagined what the place would be like today? As Sun Valley Resort turns 75 years old, we asked community leaders to imagine standing in the footprints of the count, high atop Dollar gazing down on Sun Valley, and tell us what they see there, 75 years from now. Interviews by Rebecca Meany

Felix Schaffgostch “discovering” Sun Valley in 1936.

WALLY HUFFMAN

Director of resorts & resort development, Sun Valley Co.

Relative to the changing world around us, we are still a haven from whatever the world looks like in 75 years. I say relatively because we’re going to grow. All you have to do is look at the master plan and you’ll see it. Most of the city of Sun Valley’s undeveloped property is the resort’s. So goes the resort, so goes the city of Sun Valley. Mr. Holding’s vision is for less density, and I think the city’s wish is for less density. But in the end the land will dictate what its capacity is. This is quite Shakespearean. We argue about it like mad, and in the end we’re not going to change it very much. There’s limited room for expansion, both residential and recreationally. We’re a very small place, and we’re surrounded by public land. That’s a very good thing. Even if we remain economically viable and successful, there’s a limit to our growth potential because there’s limit to the private land. That may save us from the fate of most other destination resort areas. Still, the resort has the capacity to grow by about double. On Bald Mountain, if we expand beyond the existing use permit line, the capacity is maybe 800,000. What does that mean? If skiing is still the same sport in 75 years that it is now, it won’t be fun anymore. It would be too crowded. So, there’s limited growth capacity here. We’ve got to be able to find out how we can survive when we reach our limit on growth. We’re going to fill those things up pretty quickly, 16

so the only thing left is the wilderness area. What’s really interesting, and hard to predict, is the capacity of the Sawtooth National Recreation Area and “THERE’S A White Clouds for recreational LIMIT TO OUR use. We may become the GROWTH gateway for the White Clouds POTENTIAL like Jackson is for the Tetons and Yellowstone. BECAUSE For people who hike, bike, THERE’S fish or camp, we haven’t even LIMIT TO THE touched the potential of the PRIVATE LAND. wilderness area north of here. THAT MAY The largest wilderness area in SAVE US FROM the continental United States, THE FATE OF maybe the most beautiful MOST OTHER wilderness area in the United DESTINATION States, and nobody even RESORT knows it’s there. That may be the untapped recreational AREAS.” asset that keeps the growth Wally Huffman of the community moving down the road. It’s heaven up there, and there isn’t anybody using it. I wouldn’t even suggest that we actively promote it. What I’m suggesting is that it’s such a great treasure, it’ll happen. My faith is that this is and will be a special haven from the rest of the world. The choir sings out of tune every now and then, but this is about as close to a perfect place as you can get. w i n te r 2 011/ 12 • s u n va l l ey g u i d e

PHOTO COURTESY SUN VALLEY RESORT ARCHIVES

V I S I O N S F O R S U N VA L L E Y :


PAM MORRIS Publisher, Idaho Mountain Express

When I put on my rosecolored goggles, I see a grand ski-in, ski-out hotel at River Run. It’s part of a lively mix of lodges, restaurants and stores that dot popular

Ketchum and Sun Valley. The gondola and ski lifts have been replaced by wirelessly operated drone pods that flit people to the top of any run they choose simply by speaking its name. Climate change is no longer a worry and conditions on Bald Mountain are always superb. The venerable mountain retains its reputation as one of the best ski/board mountains in the world, but has expanded to so much adjacent terrain that no one can ski it all in a single vacation. Arts, education and innovative companies flourish in “green” buildings. Oh, and locals are headed to a public hearing to protest greenhouses that could block their views. Organic vitaminpacked juices will be served.

The best news about the Wood River Valley 75 years from now is that most of Author of us will not be around to be The Sun Valley Story disheartened by it. Given adequate water, municipal growth advocacy and accommodating courts, the valley population could easily reach 50,000. The “no hillside” housing prohibitions will be diluted or under intense pressure. The valley itself will be devoid of a Western, mountaintown atmosphere. Few will recall what that was. Ketchum will be highly commercial with extensive stands of low-income housing. Another ski mountain (déclassé, low-cost, minimal facilities) will be in operation and Sun Valley Resort itself will have been sold by the second or third generation of the Holdings. Gondolas will move people over Ketchum to large parking centers and the recreational zones. Fishing access to Silver Creek and large sections of the Big Wood River will be, at least partially, on a reservation and fee basis. Both will suffer under the heavy pressure, and the Big Wood will require extensive restocking. The second-home community will decline “THE VALLEY in numbers and net worth. Celebrities and ITSELF WILL second-home owners with access to private BE DEVOID OF aviation will relocate, mainly to Canada. The valley will become a popular eight- or nineA WESTERN, month retirement community. MOUNTAIN Hailey will enjoy near parity with Ketchum TOWN as a cultural, social and medical center. A ATMOSPHERE. regional government will manage the valley. FEW WILL It generally will be divisive and ineffectual. RECALL WHAT The expanded airport and industrial/retail area THAT WAS.” (with large-box stores) will dominate south Hailey. Sun Valley Resort will continue to be Van Gordon Sauter up-market, but guests will spend more time, and money, on the company properties for recreation, shopping and entertainment. Sections of Adams Gulch, Gimlet, Greenhorn Gulch, etc. will become gated communities. A vulgar, unrealistic reality television show, Glittering Housewives of Sun Valley, will feature morbidly thin women, attired in garish, faux Western wear and preoccupied with odious marriages and cheesy bling. It will attract a thankfully brief but scandalous popularity. A large percentage of the population will never have seen a free-roaming moose, elk, coyote, fox or bear. The signature valley dog will be the Chihuahua. Happy trails.

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Sun Valley has felt the boom GREG and bust cycle of tourism RANDOLPH and the economy yet again General Manager, Sun after a strong recovery postValley Chamber of 2011. It has continued to Commerce grow but sustainability has become the drumbeat of a town that decided it needed a plan to insure it stays in business forever. Geothermal and solar energy heat and power the valley. Traffic has been reduced to bicycles, pedestrians and train passengers. Anti-gravity technology has led to a levitating highway floating above the valley floor and allowed for ski lift pods to be located throughout the Pioneer and Boulder ranges. Climate change has turned Sun Valley into one of the snowiest climates on earth as La Niña has become an annual event. The advent of vertical take-off and landing of large passenger aircraft have made the airport debacle of the early part of the century irrelevant, and a landing pad has been constructed adjacent to town. A small state college has been built between Sun Valley and Ketchum, and its first class of graduates has managed to peacefully merge the government and services of the two cities, being awarded a Nobel Peace Prize as a result.

VINYL “THE ADVENT OF VERTICAL TAKE OFF AND LANDING LARGE PASSENGER AIRCRAFT HAVE MADE THE AIRPORT DEBACLE OF THE EARLY PART OF THE CENTURY IRRELEVANT.” Greg Randolph

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I’m standing on top of Dollar 75 years from now, and I see WENDY a larger community, but still JAQUET attractive because of city and State Representative, county zoning that has mainKetchum tained the setbacks by the river, maintained the Highway 75 scenic corridor, kept development off the hillsides. And, looking south, the agriculture lands are still there and productive. Because of technology, we have more businesses that are non-tourism related. More and more people can work anywhere, so they’ve come to the Wood River Valley because of the outstanding quality of life, the educated workforce, air and ground links to the rest of the world and the quality schools. The businesses that have located here are of the grown children of families who came here as tourists and recognized the area’s potential. Families have downsized their dreams about the kind of house they want to purchase due to resource values that they have embraced. As a result, larger homes have been remodeled as duplexes or replaced by multi-housing-unit projects with community amenities. An increased supply, higher densities and higher-income jobs have made homes and rents more affordable. Mountain Rides has grown to the point that it is cool to commute by bus and van from Warm Springs, Hailey/Bellevue and Elkhorn. The valley’s children have developed a freedom to ride just like their counterparts in big cities. It’s still the best place!

Locally owned & operated by Randy & Barbara Murphy 18

w i n te r 2 011/ 12 • s u n va l l ey g u i d e


RANDY HALL Ketchum mayor

Looking down from Dollar in the year 2086, I see a Ketchum that has distinguished itself as the premier year-round resort in the country. It has accomplished this by honoring its core values: not building on its hillsides, keeping its rivers pristine and sticking like glue to the guiding principles of the Downtown Master Plan established in 2006. With the understanding that people are the basis for what we are and will become, Ketchum is a town with a unique recreation and outdoor lifestyle that attracts people from all over the world to live and play, enjoying a creative life on the edge of the great outdoors. Ketchum enjoys a vital diversified economy because it has accepted three basic tenets. First, its tourist-driven economy. Second, the community and economic benefits attained from having the work force live and work within the Ketchum community. Third, that the value created when the community, government and private sector work together for the good of the community is far greater than each entity on its own.

JON DUVAL

Executive Director, Ketchum Community Development Corp.

Wow, that really hurt. Guess I should have been wearing a helmet when I skied into the trees off Limelight. Wait, what? I’ve been in a coma for 75 years?! No wonder I’m starving—is Despo’s open? That hit the spot. Now, where the hell are all the zombies, post-apocalyptic cannibals and sparkly vampires I was promised by Hollywood? Instead I’m looking at a large greenhouse and organic farm covering the Reinheimer Ranch, the glint of solar panels across the rooftops in downtown Ketchum and wind turbines rotating atop Bald Mountain. It’s the ongoing efforts of the Sun Valley Health and Wellness Institute, you say? So, in addition to becoming the bestknown mountain bike mecca in the U.S., hosting the annual Bocci World Championships and maintaining a world-class ski resort, the valley sees people flock from every corner of the world, including the new continent of California, to see the archetype of a sustainable community— off the grid, in the mountains and still living the dream. sVg www.sunvalleyguide.com

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sirens backcountry OF THE

Six women embrace the call of the wild, revealing secrets, serenity and sisterhood along the way.

By Robin Sias Photos by Joe St. Onge

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ne crisp, clear Sun Valley morning seven years ago, Ellen Gillespie’s husband coaxed her away from her beloved Bald Mountain and convinced her to join him for a day of backcountry skiing on Galena Summit. “He kept telling me how amazing, unbelievable it was,” the then-skeptical Gillespie said. “‘The powder,’ he said. ‘The powder!’” The seasoned downhill skier had to admit she was itching for a new challenge. She had found herself looking at the ranges jutting spectacularly from the vista surrounding Baldy and wondering, “Hmmm, what else can I ski?” So Gillespie tried it. “Hiking up was really hard,” she said, “but he was right—the powder! The powder was amazing.” That baptism by powder was the conversion moment for Gillespie, a conversion to the gospel of backcountry skiing. But every gospel needs adherents, a gathering place and a charismatic leader. Gillespie found her congregation with Teri Szombathy and her women’s ski group, the Sirens of the Snow. Szombathy and Susan Flynt started the Sirens in 2003 with one overriding goal: getting away with their girlfriends on a regular basis. The current group—Szombathy, Gillespie, Flynt, Nancy Mann Blair, Joan Swift and Betty Swanson—meet early one morning each week at the YMCA parking lot, ready for a day of escape. “Any time you get to spend time with your friends, relax and just have the chance to be casual and unwind, you look forward to,” Szombathy said. “It’s always epic.” Having a set time every week and hiring Hailey-based outfitter Sun Valley Trekking took the pressure out of the endeavor. “I wanted it to be a no-brainer,” Szombathy said. “I wanted us to just show up, have the guides know where the best skiing was, and just have the opportunity to go out and enjoy the day. When you don’t have to manage every detail, it makes it so much more relaxing.” At first, joining the Sirens wasn’t relaxing for Gillespie. “It was really intimidating. I was nervous,” Gillespie said. “I wasn’t sure if I was fit enough. There was so much equipment. I got up 10 times the night before a trip to check it. And what about food? What could I eat that could give me energy but not make me throw up?” This type of apprehension is a big reason many shy away from backcountry skiing. Would-be participants wonder if they’re good enough to head into the backcountry. Images of extreme and helicopter skiing are inexorably yet incorrectly linked in many people’s minds when they think of backcountry skiing. “The truth is that anyone who can ski down Baldy can go backcountry skiing,” Gillespie said. w i n te r 2 011/ 12 • s u n va l l ey g u i d e


Betty Swanson and Ellen Gillespie enjoy the wilds of Idaho, au naturel.

www.sunvalleyguide.com

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ccording to Sun Valley Trekking owner and guide Francie St. Onge, it is a much more accessible sport than people might think. “While it may seem really intimidating at first, the more you do it, the more familiar it becomes,” she said. “The more familiar it becomes, the more confident you get. The more confident you get, the more empowered you become, and then all of a sudden you realize you’re having a ton of fun.” Part of the fear of backcountry skiing is the safety factor. Participants cannot feel comfortable and confident if they lack avalanche training and backcountry safety know-how. The sport has inherent dangers, and safety is always the top priority for area outfitters, who require avalanche education, map reading and an inside-out understanding of the gear as part of every trip. Groups with regularly scheduled trips progress through a curriculum, building a strong knowledge base.

backcountry 101

A revolution in backcountry skiing gear 15 to 20 years ago made it accessible to all styles of skiers. Telemark gear, in which the heel is always free, gave way to randonee (or alpine touring) gear, where the heel clips in for the downhill. Today if you can ski on traditional alpine skis, you can ski on these. However, while the skis may be similar, the experience and surroundings are not. “Ensuring backcountry beginners understand the vast differences between ski-area skiing and backcountry skiing is key to what we do,” said Kirk Bachman of Sawtooth Mountain Guides, “There’s no ski patrol out there.” Besides skis, requisites for a backcountry day include avalanche beacons, shovels, probes and a check on avalanche warnings (sawtoothavalanche.com/208.622.8027). Otherwise, the basics of the sport are simple. Drive to a trailhead, clip into skis after rolling ‘skins’ onto the bottoms (like a carpet that grips the snow, allowing smooth forward glide while preventing the skis from sliding backward on slopes) and power on your avalanche beacons. For the climb, skiers’ heels are free, allowing a more natural range of foot and ankle motion to help get up the mountain. At the top, skiers click their heels into a binding position and exchange a few sweat-soaked base layers of clothing for dry ones, and then the powder starts to fly.

what is discussed on the climb stays on the climb.

terrific terrain “One of the most surprising things about backcountry skiing is that you don’t have to go far to have fun,” said Francie St. Onge of Sun Valley Trekking. Skiers are greeted with open terrain, glades and slopes all along the state Highway 75 corridor. So much great terrain is easily accessible that skiers rarely need repeat an area twice in one season. That’s true for beginners and experienced skiers alike. For those not familiar with the local terrain, hiring a guide is worth the investment. Guides know what to do in an emergency, help with equipment and enhance slope safety by scouting runs. Often one guide is stationed at the top of a run and one at the bottom, using radios to let skiers know when it’s safe to proceed. They also offer beacon, probe and shovel training. Sun Valley Trekking: $330 for one to two people or $110 per person for a party of three or more. svtrek. com / 208.788.1966 Sawtooth Mountain Guides: $150 per person for four or more skiers. sawtoothguides.com / 208.774.3324.

• • 22

Wine, chocolate, friends and snow. For the Sirens, backcountry skiing is all about bonding. “We laugh all day long,” said Nancy Mann Blair (top right).

These stringent requirements are the primary reason the Sirens make their weekly sojourns accompanied by professionals. “We hire a guide because we don’t want to get killed,” Gillespie said. “I’m constantly amazed by the guide’s ability to sniff out powder even when it hasn’t snowed in weeks, but it’s the fact that they are so knowledgeable that keeps us coming back.” Trust is also a huge factor in keeping a cohesive ski group. “It’s an intense thing,” said Siren Betty Swanson. “We have a guide, but we are still putting our lives in each others’ hands.” Trust among the group is tantamount to a successful, safe day. It is also tantamount in building another type of comfort, one that encourages confidences w i n te r 2 011/ 12 • s u n va l l ey g u i d e


and assures that what is discussed on the climb stays on the climb. And no topic is off limits for the Sirens. Outings are a type of therapy session during which the women discuss family, relationships, work challenges and everything else that is important to them. “We get to talk on the climb,” Gillespie said. “It’s a shared experience—one that makes memories. If those guides ever wanted to write a book, they would have plenty of material.” Also requisite for a successful group is a sense of humor. “We laugh all day long,” said Blair, the member of the group who by all accounts is the strongest on the climb, but most prone to fi nding herself in “situations” on the downhill. Situations run the gamut from lost equipment to face-fi rst splats into huge walls of snow. Swanson, who is one of the prettiest and strongest skiers on the downhill, admits she has to work on the climb. All the women bring varied experience to the group, yet somehow fi nd a middle ground in which everyone can be comfortable and confident and have fun. The weekly sojourn into the backcountry is the one event on everyone’s calendar that is non-negotiable. “There’s always one of us who is late,” Swanson said with a laugh, “But we show up. It’s a priority thing, something we won’t give up.” Memories are plentiful for the Sirens. During one trip skiing Durrance Peak north of Ketchum, they spotted three wolves from the Phantom wolf pack peering down at them. There have been magic soft powder days when conditions allowed the women to ski a long run, two to three abreast, a move they call “Bond Girl style.” There have been wild weather days, too. Each season culminates in a two-day expedition to a yurt. As reward for their hard work, the Sirens ski in and stay a few nights, indulging in good wine, good food, plenty of laughter and, of course, great skiing out the yurt’s front door. Most of the Sirens juggle paid work, volunteer work and parenting school-age children on a daily basis, making the time away even more precious. When it comes down to it, the Sirens’ outings are about friendship, fitness and unplugging from the daily grind. “It satisfies the soul,” Gillespie said. “I come home feeling more energized than drained, no matter how hard the workout. You are away from the computer, off the grid. There is no choice but to be in the moment.” “When I lived in London and New York, we did book club,” Gillespie said. “Or we had lunch. Here we backcountry ski instead!” sVg www.sunvalleyguide.com

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GlAMouR House WHERE

HEMINGWAY BROUGHT A NOVEL TO LIFE

 By Gregory foley

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IN

September 1939, Ernest Hemingway famed author and outdoorsman would enjoy the was riding high. He was in love with an up-andmountains of Idaho and might generate some coming female writer who didn’t wither under his good press—like the story in the oversized, glossy larger-than-life persona. He was well along on a pages of Life. new novel, For Whom the Bell Tolls, something Upon arrival in Sun Valley on September 20, to rival his great works of the Roaring ’20s. And 1939, Hemingway and Gellhorn were assigned to he was headed for a new province, a Western oasis Room 206, a plush suite at the end of a long hall. where he could cross the i’s and dot the t’s on his It had a wooden desk where Hemingway could contract to be America’s greatest living author. work, and a terrace with views of the mountains A year later, the contract was complete. In above Sun Valley and Ketchum. Papa called it October 1940, the Charles Scribner’s Sons pub“Glamour House.” lishing house released For Whom the Bell Tolls, Marty Peterson, an Idaho resident and noted a 507-page epic about love, war and death. The Hemingway scholar, said going to Sun Valley in book—dedicated to his soon1939 was an important step in to-be wife Martha GellHemingway’s career. THE POEM horn—flew off the shelves. In “At that time, Sun Valley January 1941, when the book was trying to get as much pubBEHIND THE had already sold more than licity as they could get,” PeterNAME 400,000 copies, Hemingway son said. “The company was “No man is an Iland, intire and Gellhorn were featured in picking up all of his charges. It of it selfe; every man is a a lengthy Life magazine photo was a fairly sweet deal. For the peece of the Continent, a essay titled “The Hemingways fi rst time in Hemingway’s life, part of the maine; if a Clod in Sun Valley—The novelist he was really well-heeled.” bee washed away by the takes a wife,” solidifying them Hemingway and Gellhorn Sea, Europe is the lesse, as as a bona fide celebrity couple. settled in quickly and made well as if a Promontorie The Life story featured some close friends, including were, as well as if a Manphotos of Ernest and Martha Lloyd Arnold, the resort’s phonor of thy friends or of thine laughing on a deck of the Sun tographer, and Lloyd’s wife, owne were; any mans death Valley Lodge, Ernest writing Tillie. The Arnolds and Taydiminishes me, because I with a pencil and paper, and lor Williams, the resort’s chief am involved in Mankinde; the couple dancing, dining and guide, tried to keep the couple And therefore, never send drinking at Trail Creek Cabin, busy and happy hunting, fishto know for whom the bell the resort’s cozy alpine retreat. ing and going out on the town. tolls; It tolls for thee.” The introduction gushed But life at Glamour House —John Donne praise for Hemingway and his wasn’t all play. Tillie Arnold, new novel: “His style, so terse in her memoir The Idaho and clean, yet vivid and rich, has been imitated Hemingway, said Papa made it clear from the by many, but matched by none. His dialog is the outset of the friendship that he had to work while envy of all.” in Sun Valley. Recalling a conversation among the In 1941, “Papa,” as Hemingway was known to men about hunting, she wrote, “Ernest confessed those close to him, was at the peak of his illustrithat he had a heavy commitment to a big book he ous career. And the novel that got him there was was writing … that his primary interest in cominextricably linked to the mountain resort that ing to Sun Valley was to hole up and work on his used his fame to cut its brand. book without interruptions.” Peterson concurred. In the fall of 1939, he said, Hemingway was “totally focused” on For Whom PAPA FINDS THE ‘SUITE’ LIFE the Bell Tolls; he had set aside all other projects. Hemingway was invited to stay at the Sun ValPapa was religious about getting his work done ley Lodge as a guest after Gene Van Guilder, the early in the day, Peterson said. “Hemingway had publicist for the chic new resort, determined the

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almost a lifelong routine of writing in the morning and playing in the afternoon,” he said. Lloyd Arnold, in his memoir Hemingway: High on the Wild, said Hemingway took a liking to writing at Glamour House; it provided a nice change from his beloved second home, the tropics of Cuba. After a day of hunting in the mountains to the north, he wrote: “The following dawn the work on the novel continued as scheduled, we learned at a lingering lunch, and it went better in the mountain cool than it had in months of heat in a hotel in Havana. He said he was on the rough of Chapter 13, and had worked the name Sun Valley into it. We lifted brows. How could he do it, time-wise?” Hemingway grinned and replied, “The freedom of fiction.”

ROBERT JORDAN COMES TO LIFE For Hemingway, Idaho was an ideal place to work on his epic novel about an American fighting in the Spanish Civil War. The Sun Valley area reminded him of Spain. The hills, the evergreens, the bite in the clean air, all helped engage him in the scene of his novel. The entire story of For Whom the Bell Tolls takes place in a span of three days in May 1937. Robert Jordan, a young American in the International Brigades, is ordered to blow up a bridge over a deep gorge behind fascist enemy lines. To complete the job, Jordan enlists the help of guerillas who live in the rugged territory. If he and his Spanish comrades can destroy the bridge just as a major loyalist offensive begins, and the offensive succeeds, the estimable fight against fascism will be one step closer to success. Of course, in true Hemingway fashion, the soldier falls in love—with a beautiful young rebel named Maria. “Her teeth were white in her brown face and her skin and eyes were the same golden tawny brown,” Hemingway wrote. Affectionately, Robert Jordan calls her “rabbit.” In Chapter 13 of the novel (written in Sun Valley), the protagonist dreams of a future with Maria but is constrained by the ever-looming shadow of death. “He did not believe there would be any such

thing as a long time anymore but if there ever was such a thing he would like to spend it with her … Why not marry her? Sure, he thought. I will marry her. Then we will be Mr. and Mrs. Robert Jordan of Sun Valley, Idaho.”

WRITING AND MAKING FRIENDS Sun Valley was good for Hemingway, emotionally and professionally, Peterson said. Papa liked to explore the frontiers of the world, places where he could work in peace and stay somewhat anonymous. “In the early years, being in Sun Valley gave him an opportunity to return to his youth,” Peterson said. “The locals he became friends with, by and large, were just good, old regular people. He became Ernest Hemingway the person, not Ernest Hemingway the celebrity.” One of those friends was Picabo rancher Bud Purdy, who got to know Papa in the fall of 1940. They often went hunting for ducks at Silver Creek, and sometimes met at one of Papa’s favored drinking and dining establishments—The Ram in Sun Valley, or the Alpine and the Christiania in Ketchum. Papa didn’t talk much about his writing, Purdy said, but one day at the Alpine he suddenly did. “He said, ‘I had a great morning, I wrote a thousand words and it’s worth a dollar a word,’” Purdy said. When Tillie Arnold was getting to know Papa in the fall of 1939, he occasionally made references to the book he was working on, but rarely elaborated. Eventually, though, Papa opened up. He told Tillie and Lloyd that he had completed 24 chapters of the novel—more than half—and asked them if they would like to read it. They took some of the pages home each night. “We read his chapters avidly,” Tillie wrote in her memoir. “It was a very good story and sometimes we would discuss it with Ernest the next evening.” Then, over cocktails, Papa told his group of local friends that he had new insight into a title for the story. “… He retrieved a book of John Donne’s poetry and read us the passage that includes ‘For whom the bell tolls’ … With feeling he said, ‘Christ, if a man could just write like that.’”

Above: Hemingway’s “Glamour House,” his suite in Sun Valley Lodge. Opposite: A bust of Hemingway greets residents in the room today. Photos by David N. Seelig w i n te r 2 011/ 12 • s u n va l l ey g u i d e


THE FINAL TOUCHES In 1940—after wintering in Cuba— Hemingway and Gellhorn returned to Sun Valley on September 6. In his first weeks back, Papa was “holed up” in Glamour House, getting the novel ready for publication, Tillie recalled in The Idaho Hemingway. “He had the final galley proofs of his book and he was going over them methodically, making last minute changes and corrections,” she wrote. It was on October 10 that Papa went into the resort’s camera shop and announced that he was done, that the galleys were ready to be mailed to Scribner’s. Tillie helped him mail the package. The next day, Lloyd took some additional publicity photos of Papa. Scribner’s had already chosen a now-famous shot of Papa sitting at his typewriter in Sun Valley to be on the dust jacket of the novel. Now, the publisher wanted a photo to blow up into a life-size image for use in a sales display in New York City. By all accounts, Papa relaxed considerably after the galleys were sent off. He and a new friend, actor Gary Cooper, hunted and played tennis by day and enjoyed cocktails and dinner at Trail Creek Cabin by night. Cooper didn’t stay all fall, but the seeds of a solid friendship were sowed. The book was published on October 21, 1940. Copies soon arrived in Sun Valley, and by October 25, Paramount film studio offered $100,000 for the movie rights to For Whom the Bell Tolls—the highest price ever for a novel. Paramount released the film in July 1943. The lead role of Robert Jordan was played by Gary Cooper. The beautiful, young Maria was played by one of the leading actresses of the time, Ingrid Bergman.

A PLACE IN HISTORY For Hemingway, the success of For Whom the Bell Tolls was a big boost to an accomplished career that had started to wane. www.sunvalleyguide.com

His most celebrated novels prior—The Sun Also Rises and A Farewell to Arms— were both published in the 1920s. “The book won incredible acclaim,” Peterson said. “It was a huge best-seller and it really got Hemingway back on track.” Purdy, who still lives and works where he took Papa duck hunting at Silver Creek, said he wasn’t always as “impressed” with Hemingway as others were, mainly because he just viewed him as a good friend—and able outdoorsman—not a celebrity author. He had read Green Hills of Africa and some of Papa’s short stories and liked them but never felt inclined toward lavish praise. Then, last winter, he picked up an old, signed copy of For Whom the Bell Tolls that Papa had given him. He read the book and developed a new appreciation for Papa’s writing. “I liked it,” he said. “I liked the descriptive sentences. It was very different.” Valerie Hemingway, a Montana writer who served as Papa’s secretary in 1959 and 1960 and later married Papa’s son Gregory, said she sees For Whom the Bell Tolls as one of Papa’s top three novels and one of the most important works of fiction from the 20th century. In 1959, Valerie visited Spain with Papa. “We walked on the bridge that Robert Jordan and his companions planned to blow up and paused at the exact spot where Jordan died, as Ernest described how he devised the final passages,” she said. “Hemingway often built his fiction around actual places and incidents, which is one of the reasons his stories are so real and believable that the reader forgets it is fiction.”

Celebrating 32 years of Toys for you, your children, and your children’s children

Font: Improv

THE GLAMOUR LIVES ON Today, Glamour House is one of Sun Valley Resort’s finest suites. Papa’s image—and to some, his ghost—looms everywhere. Papa hunting. Papa laughing with his Sun Valley friends. It has been 60 years since Papa stayed there, but one can easily imagine him seated before the French doors, breathing the cool morning air, clutching his pen and pages. As he appears in the photos of Life, one can picture him laughing on the outside deck with his new wife, prepared to take his throne among writers—hoping the bell will toll no time soon. sVg

Cat in the Hat and other Dr. Seuss characters are licensed under Dr. Seuss Properties.

Meanwhile, work on the big novel continued. Papa even commissioned Bernice Hicks, a secretary at the resort, to type and retype most of the first 24 chapters he had finished. And, Tillie Arnold recalled, Papa and his entourage stuck to their social routine: “drinks at Glamour House and dinner together, usually at The Ram.”

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administration and landed a position that would lead to becoming ambassador to Great Britain in 1941. Winston Churchill said of him, “I believe he was the one most responsible for getting the Americans to support us during the war.” The friendship between a U.S. ambassador and a Nazi Austrian count was destined to crumble. Schaffgotsch worked at the resort for one more winter, 1938-39. His main duty was to manage the ski school. Wendolyn Holland wrote in Sun Valley: An Extraordinary History that his management style was somewhat abrasive, and he received a gentle reprimand from Harriman for grumbling that Proctor lift was misplaced and Marjorie Duchin had stolen the ski room from him for her clothing store. “Working with an organization is a new experience for you,” Harriman wrote. “A certain subservience of individual ideas is essential for each in order to make a team win a football game.” But as Schaffgotsch prepared to return for Sun Valley’s fourth season, the rest of the world went to war. On September 3, 1939, Britain and France declared war on Germany. This presented a dilemma for the Austrian count. If he returned to America he could see out the war in relative safety, but as an Austrian he would be under intense scrutiny and suspicion, and he might never be able to return home. However, if he returned to Austria now he would have no other option but to fight. On the day war broke out between their two countries, Schaffgotsch called up his friend Niven, who faced a similar dilemma. Niven recalled the conversation in his autobiography, “‘Hello, enemy,’ he said gaily, ‘what are you going to do?’ ‘I’ll go back, I suppose,’ I said, very gloomily. Felix sounded very bright. ‘I’m leaving the day after tomorrow. Let’s go together.’” The two spent their last week as civilians enjoying the considerable delights of a Europe not yet devastated by the war, spending their final night together in Rome. “Alone in a little bistro in Trastevere, we drank Vino di Frascati as though they were never going to make it anymore,” wrote Niven. “Felix talked about the new ski lifts he was planning for Sun Valley, and I talked of the pictures I was going to make. A long silence enveloped us. We watched the newly awakened swifts w i n te r 2 011/ 12 • s u n va l l ey g u i d e


wheeling and darting and miraculously missing each other in the darker-blue sky. Suddenly, Felix slammed his glass down on the table and jumped to his feet. ‘Let’s say goodbye now,’ he said almost angrily. I stood up. I think we both wept anyway. We embraced and parted quickly. A few hours later, Felix headed northeast for the Brenner Pass to join the S.S. and I headed northwest for the French border at Modane to join God knew what.” Niven assumes Schaffgotsch headed straight to fight for his country, but Averell Harriman’s papers, housed at the Library of Congress in Washington D.C., reveal a different story. A few weeks after he left Niven, the count sent entreaties from Italy to his boss hoping for a place at the resort that winter—perhaps preferring a ski school uniform to that of an SS officer. But he was no longer welcome. A telegram dated October 23, 1939, from Harriman to Schaffgotsch stated: “This winter’s organization completed including [Don] Fraser and [Dick] Durrance therefore no position open. However, if you are coming over at your own expense glad [to] have you as our guest for a month at Sun Valley.” That is the last record of any interaction between Schaffgotsch and the resort he helped to found. In the final months of 1939, with little option—though based on his professed politics, not against his will—Schaffgotsch became a first lieutenant in the Florian Geyer division of the Waffen-SS, a cavalry outfit made up of ethnic Germans from outside Germany. On August 11, 1942, he was killed at Kurgannaja City, fighting on the Russian front line. He was 38. A few hundred miles away, while his “heralded discoverer” perished on a muddy battlefield, Averell Harriman arrived in Moscow, accompanying Winston Churchill to a conference with Joseph Stalin. Six months later the Russians decimated the German army at the Battle of Stalingrad, an event most historians agree led to the defeat of Hitler. In December of the same year, far away from the death and destruction of World War II, the resort that the two friends founded closed its doors. The FBI arrested three of Schaffgotsch’s treasured Austrian ski instructors—Hauser, Pfeifer and Sepp Froelich—and the ski lifts the Austrian was so proud of ground to a halt for four long years. Today, the count is merely a footnote in the history of Sun Valley. And a hill just north of Baldy that once bore the name Schaffgotsch Mountain stands nameless. sVg www.sunvalleyguide.com

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the guide

PALE T TES

Virginie Baude, The Approach, oil on canvas, 24" x 36"

EXPRESSIONS GALLERIES 3

William Morris, Stone Vessel, blown glass 17" x 16½" x 5"

FRIESEN GALLERY 1

Sun Valley Road at First Avenue, Ketchum. 208.726.4174 Seattle: 1200 Second Ave. friesen@friesengallery.com, www.friesengallery.com, www.speakforthetreesbook.com

Friesen Gallery celebrates 25 years this season with extraordinary exhibitions including “The Silver Summit” anniversary event in December-January and mixed media/encaustic works by Catherine Eaton Skinner in February. Featuring: David Kimball Anderson, Jeanne Brennan, Pegan Brooke, Nicole Chesney, Ford Crull, Dennis Evans, Lawrence Fodor, Jeff Fontaine, Darren Vigil Gray, Gregory Grenon, Reilly Jensen, Steve Jensen, Mary Josephson, Jill Lear, Rocky Lewycky, Holly Lyman, Nancy Mee, William Morris, Stephanie Peek, Mark Rediske, Chris Richter, Ross Richmond, Catherine Eaton Skinner, Rob Snyder, and Del Webber.

KNEELAND GALLERY 5

360 East Avenue (In the Court Yard) Ketchum, Idaho 83340 208.928.7728 www.expresionsgalleries.com

271 First Avenue North, Ketchum P.O. Box 2070, Sun Valley, ID 83353 208.726.5512 • fax 208.726.3490 art@kneelandgallery.com • www.kneelandgallery.com

Expressions Galleries, features contemporary and traditional works from Nelson Boren, Fran Kievet, Dick Heichberger, Donna-Howell-Sickles, Bill Mittag, Ken Peloke, Jim Rey and Mary Roberson. All capture the unique lifestyle of the American West. These artists are anchored by the internationally renown Native American bronze sculpture of Dave McGary who’s historically accurate work is found in collections throughout the world.

Exhibiting paintings & sculpture by artists living and working in the West. Artists include Douglas Aagard, Steven Lee Adams, Carol Alleman, Virginie Baude, Ovanes Berberian, Cary Henrie, Shanna Kunz, Jennifer Lowe, Kent Lovelace, Lori McNee, Robert Moore, Jean Richardson, Thom Ross, Carl Rowe, Linda St. Clair, Sherry Salari Sander, Andrzej Skorut & Linda Tippetts. A full listing of gallery artists and their work can be viewed on our website. Community

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Robert Polidori, Vestibule, Salles Empire,Versailles

GAIL SEVERN GALLERY 2

400 First Avenue North, Ketchum • 208.726.5079 www.gailseverngallery.com

Jane Maxwell, Two Seated Girls Blue, mixed media and resin on panel, 36" x 48"

Celebrating 35 years featuring contemporary painting, sculpture and photography: Victoria Adams, Nicolas Africano, Tony Berlant, Bo Bartlett, Squeak Carnwath, Linda Christensen, Jose Cobo, James Cook, Kris Cox, David deVillier, Betsy Eby, Tony Foster, Raphaëlle Goethals, Morris Graves, Michael Gregory, Michelle Haglund, Jonathon Hexner, Jun Kaneko, Margaret Keelan, Judith Kindler, Gary Komarin, Hung Liu, Lynda Lowe, Laura McPhee, Cole Morgan, Kenna Moser, Gwynn Murrill, Ed Musante, Marcia Myers, Carolyn Olbum, Deborah Oropallo, Luis Gonzales Palma, Robert Polidori, Christopher Reilly, Rene Rickabaugh, William Robinson, Jane Rosen, Brad Rude, Julie Speidel, Jack Spencer, Mark Stasz, Therman Statom, Allison Stewart, and Theodore Waddell. Custom framing and art installation services.

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GILMAN CONTEMPORARY 4

661 Sun Valley Road PO Box 3005 Ketchum, ID 83340 208.726.7585 www.gilmancontemporary.com

For centuries art galleries have provided visitors world-wide a gathering place which draws from all walks of life. Patrons not only discuss art, but politics, fashion and everyday events in a unique environment of eclectic culture. Gilman Contemporary is happy to continue this tradition through exhibiting a variety of artists' works in a relaxed and vibrant setting which inspires thought-provoking and lively conversation. Presenting photography, sculpture, and painting, we continue to fulfill our mission to bring compelling contemporary work to the valley.

Maynard Dixon, "Howdy Stranger", drawing 10" x 13"

DAVID M. NORTON FINE ART 6 511 Sun Valley Road, lower level of Sheepskin Coat Factory, Ketchum 208.726.3588

Fine American Art and Collectibles... Taos founders, David M. Norton Gallery has specialized in American paintings, photographs and prints for over 30 years. Currently featuring Jim Norton CAA, Maynard Dixon, J.H.Sharp, Carl Oscar Borg, photography by Barbara Kline, E.S Curtis and Robert Dawson. w i n te r 2 011/ 12 • s u n va l l ey g u i d e


Mark Thompson, Black Love, 2008 Courtesy the artist and G. Gibson Gallery, Seattle

SUN VALLEY CENTER FOR THE ARTS 7

191 Fifth St. E, Ketchum 314 2nd Avenue S, Hailey P.O. Box 656, Sun Valley, ID 83353 208.726.9491 www.sunvalleycenter.org

The Center brings the arts to our community this winter through lectures, concerts, films and our museum gallery. With lectures from Garrison Keillor and arctic photographer James Balog; concerts with H’Sao and Flamenco Vivo; and the exhibition, Thin Ice: Explorations in Polar Regions. See website for details and schedules.

WINTER gallery walks

Ketchum 5-8 p.m.

friday, november 25 friday, december 30 friday, february 17 friday, march 9 saturday, may 26

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Lynn Toneri, Cock on the Clock, watercolor

TONERI HINK GALLERY 8 400 Sun Valley Road Ketchum. Idaho 83340 208.726.5639 Find us on Facebook-Lynn Toneri RC Hink Art Gallery tonerihink@sunvalley.net

Lynn Toneri’s contemporary watercolors represent a vivid interpretation of her surroundings in Idaho and other adventures at large. Wood sculptor R. C. Hink displays wild wood creations and furniture with amusing touches. We’ve added 60 guest artists to the mix producing a delightfully magical gallery. special advertising section

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S A W T O O T H VA L L E Y

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W E L L N E S S FUNDRAISERS F E S T I V A L S MUSIC PA R A DES

Find out here. Or in both the Wednesday and Friday Idaho Mountain Express newspapers

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the guide

W I N T E R C A L E N D A R [by Jennifer Liebrum]

pianist. Limelight Room, Sun Valley Inn. $75. Details: jazzforpeace.org

HOLIDAY CELEBRATIONS Sun Valley Carolers begin strolling around the resort on Dec. 17, the same night as the Tree Lighting, 5 p.m. The Classical Christmas Concert is on Dec. 23, $35, at the Sun Valley Opera House, and on Christmas Eve, gather at the ice rink and enjoy Nutcracker on Ice, featuring world class skaters, a visit from Santa, and a torchlight parade under an umbrella of fireworks over Dollar Mountain, Dec. 24, 5 p.m. Also, look for a special event on Dec. 21. celebrating the resort’s 75th birthday. Details: 208.622.2135/sunvalley.com

Monkey Bizz and Open Arms, shop the unique craft and bead work of a consortium of South African women artists. Gilman Contemporary, Ketchum. Dec. 15. Details: gilmancontemporary.com /208.726.7585 Galena Winter Benefit & Dinner, Music by All Night Diner, dinner, dancing at the Limelight Room, Sun Valley, Jan. 28, $95. Details: galenalodge.com Share Your Heart Ball, Feb. 19, Limelight Room, Sun Valley, raising money for Camp Rainbow Gold. Details: shareyourheartball.org

Festival of Trees on display at the Senior Connection in Hailey, Nov. 29, 30 & Dec. 1. Details: 208.788.3468

Casino Royale fundraiser for Company of Fools, March 3. Liberty Theatre, Hailey. Details: companyofools.org

Hailey Hometown Holidays Parade, Dec. 1. Details: haileyidaho.com Holiday Tap & Ballet, Footlight Dance Company, Dec. 9, at 12:30 p.m. at the Senior Connection and 1:10 p.m. at Blaine Manor, Hailey. Details: 208.578.5462

Misha and Cipa Dichter, piano concert, March 10, proceeds go to support National Alliance on Mental Illness (NAMI), Wood River Valley Crisis Hotline and The Speedy Foundation. Details: svartistseries.org

Beauty & the Beast by Sun Valley Ballet, Dec. 9-11, nexStage Theatre, Ketchum. Details: 208.276.9876

Bill Janss Pro Am Classic party and fundraiser for the Sun Valley Ski Education Foundation. April 5-7. Details: svsef.org

Light up Bellevue and join the little gateway town’s hometown holiday celebration, Dec. 10.

SKI RACES & EXPOS

It’s a Wonderful Life live radio play, Dec. 13-18 at Sun Valley Opera House and Dec. 20-24 & 27-30 at Liberty Theatre, Hailey. Details: companyoffools.org

Powder magazine celebrates 40 years. Powder Prom, Dec. 9. Hot dog contest, movie screening and official Powder party, Dec. 10. Details: sunvalley.com

Wood River Community Orchestra Holiday Concert, free performances by this all-ages choir, Dec. 17 & 18, 4 p.m. at St. Thomas Episcopal Church, Ketchum.

Sun Valley Nordic Festival, nine days of activities, races, clinics and fun events, discounts on demos/rentals, lodging and dining to showcase Sun Valley’s rep as Nordic Town USA, Sun Valley Resort, Jan. 28-Feb. 5. Special guest David Wood, former head coach of the Canadian National Cross Country Team, speaks at The Community Library, Feb. 1. Winter Block Party, ski race and music, Feb. 2. Details: svnordicfestival.com

Christmas Classic & Skate Races, Dec. 17 & 18, Galena Lodge. Details: galenalodge.com Hallelujah Choir Christmas Concerts, Dec. 19 & 20 at nexStage Theatre, Ketchum. Details: 208.276.9876

Fine Dry Cleaning

Boulder Mountain Classic Ski Tour, one of America’s longest running and respected cross country ski races. All are welcome. Expo, Feb. 3, 10 a.m. - 8 p.m., 37th Boulder Mountain Tour, Feb. 4, 10 a.m., Harriman Trail. Tour Demo, Feb. 5, Sun Valley Nordic. Details: 208.726.3497/bouldermountaintour.com

Holiday Gallery Walk, Dec. 30, 5-8 p.m. Sun Valley Gallery Association celebrates with evening receptions, artist chats and special exhibits. Details: svgalleries.org Reckless Kelly’s New Year’s Eve, at Whiskey Jacques’, Ketchum, $70. Details: whiskeyjacques.com

Galena Lodge races: Winterstart, Dec. 3; Nordic Demo Days, Dec. 10; Billy Goat Loppett, Jan. 21; Ride, Stride & Glide, triathalon at Galena Lodge, April 7. Details: galenalodge.com

FESTIVE FUNDRAISERS Winter Wonder at Sawtooth Botanical Garden, fundraiser Dec. 2, 5-8 p.m. $75. Open to the public Dec. 3-23. Details: sbgarden.org

Blaine County Rec Nordic: Ski Free Day on all trails, Jan. 8; Ski Quigley Nordic Free and take a clinic, Jan. 15; Ski the Rails & Celebrate the Trails, ski the Wood River Trail from Ketchum to Hailey to lunch at Sun Valley Brewery, Jan. 28. Details: bcrd.org

Papoose Club’s Holiday Bazaar, Dec. 3 & 4, Hemingway Elementary School, Ketchum. Santa Paws Photo Op, in aid of the Animal Shelter of the Wood River Valley. Dirty Beagle in Hailey, Dec. 3 & 4. Details: 208.788.6755

Prairie Creek Snow Maker Classic, Jan. 2 Details: 208.726.3497

Festival of Trees, Champagne Luncheon and Panache Fashion Show, Dec. 2. Senior Connection, Hailey. Festival of Trees Martini Gala Auction, raise money for Blaine County Seniors. $75. Senior Connection, Hailey, Dec. 3 at 6 p.m. Details: 208.788.3468

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Empty Bowls for the Hunger Coalition, Dec. 10, play with clay and leave your creation behind to raise money for the local food bank. Boulder Mountain Clayworks, Ketchum. Bowls will be sold Jan. 15, 12-2 p.m., at the Presbyterian Church of the Big Wood. Details: bouldermtnclay.com/208.726.4484 Jazz for Peace, benefits Special Olympics Idaho. Dec. 16, with Rick DellaRatta, singer,

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Sun Valley Ski Hall of Fame Induction Ceremony, Ketchum Sun Valley Heritage and Ski Museum, Feb. 1. Details: sunvalley.com Snow Box Derby at Rotarun Ski Area, February. Details: 578-2273 /rotarunski.com The Paw ’n’ Pole is a chance to ski and snowshoe with your fur pal and raise money for the Animal Shelter of the Wood River Valley, March 4. Details: animalshelterwrv.org

WELLNESS EVENTS Family of Woman Film Festival highlighting the

w i n te r 2 011/ 12 • s u n va l l ey g u i d e


status of women in developing countries, March 2-4. Details: 208.622.1544 Ski to Live, a powerful weekend for skiers, snowboarders and telemarkers led by former world class professional skier Kristen Ulmer, March 8-10. Details kristenulmer.com

L O D G I N G Ste AC guide suite

Sun Valley Wellness Festival, May 25-28. Details: sunvalleywellness.org

Comedy at The Boiler Room, Sun Valley Resort, starts Jan. 13. Details: sunvalley.com/622-2135 God of Carnage, winner of the 2009 Tony Award by Yasmina Reza. Feb. 15-19, 21-25 & Feb. 28 March 2. Liberty Theatre, Hailey. Details: companyoffools.org

LIVE MUSIC Sun Valley Artist Series: Amadea Piano Trio, Dec. 20; Mattias Jacobsson, guitar, Jan. 12; Peter Henderson & Susan Spelius Dunning, piano concert, Feb. 4; The Music of Benjamin Britten, April 8. Details: svartistseries.org Love is in the Air, soprano Michelle Johnson and baritone Brian Majors, Sun Valley Opera House, Feb. 10. Details: sunvalleyopera.com Whiskey Jacques’ Ketchum Main Street, live music most nights. Details: whiskeyjacques.com

ART EXHIBITIONS

208-788-7950 www.americinn.com Ste

The Community Library: Author talks and film screenings: Kimberly Cutter, The Maid, Dec. 15; Van Gordon Sauter, The Sun Valley Story, Dec. 22; Lee Pollack with film Walking with Destiny Dec. 28; DeSiree’ Fawn, film The Phantom Wolves of Sun Valley, Jan. 3; Cherie Burns on Searching for Beauty, the Life of Millicent Rogers, Feb. 22. Our Movable Feast, March 11. Details: thecommunitylibrary.org

OTHER WINTER ACTIVITIES Explore the valley’s history at the Ketchum Sun Valley Heritage and Ski Museum, off Main Street in the Forest Service Park. Take the gondola up Baldy for spectacular views and breakfast, lunch or dinner at the historic Roundhouse Lodge. Enjoy dinner under the Full Moon at Galena Lodge. Snowshoe through the Sawtooth National Recreation Area. Take a sleigh ride to Trail Creek Cabin. Go night skiing at Rotarun. Take the family sledding at Quigley Nordic. Try out tubing on Dollar Mountain. Go ice skating at Sun Valley, Atkinson Park (Ketchum) and Roberta McKercher Park (Hailey). Catch a hockey game at Sun Valley Resort. Enjoy the snow! VIEW THE WEEKLY CALENDAR ON THE WEB AT

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Sun Valley Gallery Association Art Walks, downtown Ketchum, 5-8 p.m. Nov. 25, Dec. 30, Feb. 17, March 9. Details: svgalleries.org Sun Valley Center for the Arts: Exhibition, Thin Ice: Journeys in Polar Regions, Dec. 9 – Feb. 4. Music & Dance series, Ben Sollee, cellist, vocalist, Dec. 9. H’Sao, African music, Jan. 21; Flamenco Vivo Carlota Santana, fierce Spanish dance and music, Feb. 25; Dervish, Celtic song and dance, March 15. Lecture series, Gretel Ehrlich, In the Empire of Ice: Encounters in a Changing Landscape, Jan. 5; James Balog’s photo journey in polar regions, Jan. 19; Reza Aslan No god but God: The Origins, Evolution and Future of Islam, Feb. 23; Garrison Keillor, A Prairie Home Companion and NPR’s Lake Wobegon commentator, March 5. Details: sunvalleycenter.org

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THEATER The Second City Chicago’s legendary comedy troupe, Jan. 12 & 13, Liberty Theatre, Hailey. Details: companyoffools.org

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33 33


the guide

G E A R U P [by Greg Moore]

Atomic Tracker Boot

iCat Phone Leash More than one electronic device has been dropped from Baldy’s chairlifts. Now hold on to that iPhone with the iCat, which plugs securely into the charging port.

An alpine boot shell with touring features such as a release on the cuff and a rubber sole for walking—either on skis or off. “The lightweight touring boots are fun going up, but they’re not so great going down,” says Brent Hansen at Ski Tek. These boots are different. With the support they offer, one day you can be skiing Baldy and the next hiking up to Pioneer Cabin.

$25, Formula Sports

Atomic Skin Tec Nordic Skis This cross-country ski borrows from backcountry gear by using a replaceable strip of synthetic hair under the middle of the ski to provide the kick traditionally gained by using sticky kick waxes. It comes with two plastic plates containing mini-skins for cold and warm snow. $480, Elephant’s Perch

$649, Ski Tek

Peips Vector A significant upgrade in avalanche transceiver technology. GPS capabilities provide support during the primary search phase to maximize the search strip width and give coordinates for alerting mountain rescue. A GPS map gives an overview of all search areas, as well as tracking during the entire tour. $600, Ski Tek, Backwoods Mountain Sports

Mountain Force Parka Quilted down jackets with welded rather than sewn seams, so no place for water to seep into the waterproof, breathable fabric. Both shell and insulation are made of four-way stretch material. $949, Pete Lane’s

Fischer Vacuum Boot With moldable shells that can be squeezed in as well as pushed out, Brad Kane at Sturtevants calls these boots the most significant technical advance since foam liners. The shell is baked, wrapped in a cooling bag, then vacuum bagged around the foot, creating the perfect fit. $599-$899, Sturtevants

Gheek goggle protector Made in Driggs, Idaho, this stylish cover has a spring along its edges that snaps the soft material tightly around the goggle, ensuring stylish protection for your lenses. $18, Sun Summit

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w i n te r 2 011/ 12 • s u n va l l ey g u i d e


Cre d i t Ca rd s

Ta k e o u t

Ca t e ri n g

Re s e rv a t i o n s

En t e rt a i n me n t

Be e r-Wi n e

$$$ entrées up to $40

PRICE

Co c k t a i l s

$$ entrées up to $25

De c k Di n i n g

R E STAUR A N T

Di n n e r

$ entrées up to $10

Lunch

PA L AT ES

Bre a k f a s t

the guide

GOURMET & FINE DINING CK’s

“Best chef. Best overall restaurant. Best server. Best ice cream.” Sun Valley Guide’s Best of the Valley 320 Main Street, Hailey, ckrealfood.com • 788-1223 $$$

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dashi

Seasonal modern Asian—new American cuisine. 220 East Avenue North, Ketchum, dashisunvalley.com • 928-7703

$$

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Ketchum Grill

Sustainable American, Idaho cuisine with French Italian influences. 520 East Avenue, Ketchum, ketchumgrill.com • 726-4660

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I TA L I A N / P I Z Z A daVinci’s

New York Style Italian. 17 W. Bullion Street, Hailey, davincishailey.com • 788-7699

Whiskey Jacques’

Pizza, burgers, appetizers, salads and sandwiches. Nightly entertainment. 251 N. Main Street, Ketchum, www.whiskeyjacques.com • 726-5297

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ASIAN Sushi on Second

The best restaurant for fresh seafood & sushi. Nightly specials. 260 Second Street, Ketchum • 726-5181

O R G A N I C & S P E C I A LT Y Glow Live Food Café

Organic local foods, eco store & supplements. Winter hours 10 a.m. – 5 p.m. 380 Washington Avenue, Ketchum • 725-0314

$$

Ketchum Grill

Sustainable American, Idaho cuisine with French Italian influences. 520 East Avenue, Ketchum, ketchumgrill.com • 726-4660

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BURGERS & PUB GRUB The Cellar Pub

Pub fare including burgers, salads, bangers, sliders, shots and more. 400 Sun Valley Road, Ketchum • 622-3832

Mahoney’s Bar & Grill

Family friendly food & fun. 104 S. Main Street, Bellevue • 788-4449

Whiskey Jacques’

Pizza, burgers, appetizers, salads and sandwiches. Nightly entertainment. 251 N. Main Street, Ketchum, www.whiskeyjacques.com • 726-5297

D E L I / B A K E RY Johnny G’s Subshack

World famous subs. Fast & cheap. 371 Washington Avenue, Ketchum • 725-SUBS

$

Perry’s

Great breakfasts, soup, sandwiches & grill selections. All to go! 7 a.m. – 9 p.m. 7 days. 4th Street and First Avenue, Ketchum • 726-7703

$

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$$

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MEXICAN Despo’s

Mexican with altitude. Corner of 4th & Washington, Ketchum • 726-3068 special advertising section

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1 placed jpg HP Smoky sun valley dining guide mt express ad 10-11.ai

1

10/4/11

4:43 PM

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

EAT

DANCE

Pizza & Burgers Appetizers, Salads Sandwiches

2 Live Music

 SPORTS

FULL BAR Sun & Tue $1 Nights & a DJ

OPENS DAILY AT 4 PM

Main Street • Ketchum • 726-5297 whiskeyjacques.com

on 8 Big Flatscreen TVs Pool & Games

$1 Well Drinks Available for Private Group Parties Upstairs Families Welcome

with our homemade Whiskey's Pizza Sauce & Mozzarella & Provolone cheese

BURGERS • SALADS • WINGS APPETIZERS • SANDWICHES 36

w i n te r 2 011/ 12 • s u n va l l ey g u i d e


Great Breakfasts! Breakfast

Soup &Lunch Sandwiches!

GrillDinner Selections!

Full Breakfast Menu! Fresh Bakery All Day! Muffins, Cookies, Great Sandwiches, Burgers, Fries, Salads, Espresso and Coffee Drinks! See our complete menu in the restaurant section of Names & Numbers phone book!

“Yeah, Got That!” Your We’ve Family Restaurant

Call ahead and we’ll have it ready for you!

EVERYTHING AVAILABLE TO GO, too! TASTY EVENING SPECIALS!

Complimentary Wireless Internet Complimentary Wireless InternetAvailable! Available! 4th Street First at Avenue - 726-7703 4that Street First Avenue - 726-7703

$1 iPad Rentals

OPEN AT 7:00 A.M. DAILY Open at 7:00 a.m. Daily

Thanks for making us the best

he

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orld a ous Juic

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The Juicy Lucy is a 1/2 Lb burger with cheese in the middle and grilled onions on top-please use extreme caution when eating!

ecos

iver

ed Chili

Our award-winning chili from the Loon Cafe in Minneapolis, Minnesota, and consists of lean top sirloin steak, onions, green chiles, and special Tex-mex spices, topped with shredded cheddar cheese, green onions and a dollop of sour cream. Served with grilled Texas Toast.

oked Ba

Back

i s

Dry rubbed for 24 hours, smoked then grilled, served with slaw and fries.

Marsha K's BBQ Chicken • Johnsonville Brats

Beautiful Kids Menu Fireplace and Outdoor Patio o o rders re l a s elco e 104 South Main Street • Bellevue Idaho • (208) 788-4449

special advertising section

Lunch Mon – Fri 11 – 2 Dinner 7 nights a week 5 – 10 Catering • Best Chef Chris Kastner • Best Waitress • Best Place for a Romantic Dinner • Best Place to go for Dessert • Best Ice Cream 208.788.1223 • 320 S Main, Hailey 37


the guide

S U M M E R S O C I A L 2 0 1 1 [by Willy Cook, David N. Seelig & Roland Lane]

Allen & Co., July Astrid & Warren Buffett

Huey Lewis & The News, August Chris Berman & Huey Lewis

Battle of the Blades, September Langely McNeal

Pop into Spring, May Taylor Sturges & Kirsten Shultz

Sun Valley Center Wine Auction, July Marisa Walker & Stacey Lill

Governor’s Cup, September, Bob & Sally Hoffman

Allen & Co. July Francois-Henri Pinault & Salma Hayek

SETCH Cowboy Ball, July Kathy Jones, Carol Stevens & David Stoecklein

Sun Valley Arts & Crafts Festival, August Anita Nelson

Danny Thompson Memorial, August Lark & Joe Washington

Silver Creek 35th Anniversary, July Dick Butterfield & King Lambert

Advocates Gala, July Joy Kasputys, Rufus & Liz Brown

Michael Franti at River Run, August

WRHS Senior Prom, May Taylor Hayes, Allie Hesteness & Taylor Gove

Advocates Gala, July Massey Glenne, Carrie Greener, Anna Lingbloom, Liz Kantor & Eeva Pregitzer

Allen & Co., July Oprah Winfrey & fans

Fur Ball, September Bernard (Chris Koch) & Sheila Liermann

Sun Valley Center Wine Auction, July Anna Svidgal & Anastasia Korobeynikora

38

Danny Thompson Memorial, August Gov. Butch Otter & David Wilson

Crisis Hotline Benefit, June Heidi Bates Hogan, Tisha Sterling & Lily Hogan

Sun Valley Ice Show, June Evan Lysacek

w i n te r 2 011/ 12 • s u n va l l ey g u i d e


FA M I LY O W N E D & O P E R AT E D F O R T H R E E G E N E R AT I O N S

A FULL-SERVICE GROCERY STORE WITH GOURMET FLAVOR ... • Locally owned and operated. • Ketchum’s favorite salad bar and only olive bar. • Paninis, sandwiches & soups made fresh daily. • Unique wine and beer. • Extensive selection of local and organic foods. • Daily deli specials created by our in-house chefs. • Clean & convenient with the friendliest staff in town! CU STO M E R O R D E R S W E LCO M E !

LO

CAL •

F

AL

C O

FR

ESH •

L

Alturas Plaza • 788.2294

Giacobbi Square • 726.5668

Hailey

L

Ketchum

A

Better Fo

• LOC

• FRE

SH

KET r Price M AoR e t t e B • d

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SH

Bellevue Main Street • 788.7788

www.atkinsons.com

100 North Main Street in the heart of downtown Ketchum, Idaho 208.725.2222 • www.msmketchum.com Open daily 7 am - 10 pm


DISCOVER MOUNTAIN LIFE

GUIDE

WINTER 2011/12

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FUTURE of sun valley

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ONE in the Valley. ONE in value. Available to residential customers in Cox Idaho service areas. Go to www.cox.com/idaho. Other restrictions may apply. ©2011 Cox Communications Omaha, LLC. All rights reserved.

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MAPS

2/11/11 11:43 AM

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Sun valley guide winter 2011  
Sun valley guide winter 2011  
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