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cool , casual Copenhagen

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Timeless beijing Art tourism

T RAV E L I S A L L A R O U N D YO U

Miami beyond the beach

Slow Travel

The Journey is the Destination

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I ssue 03

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Destination Index

8

Editor’s Letter

12

How Everywhere Works

13

Points of Interest

From Arizona’s canyons to the Korean demilitarized zone, with connecting service to Spain, New York City, France, Thailand, Prague, Mexico, and San Antonio.

38

Miami

Copenhagen

Warm breezes, hot nights, and conga-fueled visions of America’s cosmopolitan future.

Exploring Denmark’s stylish capital, where sophisticated charm is joined with laid-back cool.

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66

Postcards

Travel snapshots with a tale to tell.

48

Trips

New Olympics, Old Peking Going Green in London New Zealand for Lord of the Rings Fans Great Czech Cities That Aren’t Prague

102

My Obsession

Asian Airline Meals: The Best and Worst

104

The Essentials

How I Fell in Love with a Japanese Toilet, Ten Ingredients for a Perfect City, Driving Across America in a 1977 VW Westfalia, What to Bring to a Tropical Island

102

Souvenirs

The Crosscultural Joys of Foreign Language T-shirts

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Tried and True

The Stuff You Won’t Leave Home Without Everywhere – Issue 3: May, 2008 – June, 2008 is published bi-monthly (every other month) for $24.99 by 8020 Publishing, 199 Fremont St, 12th Floor, San Francisco, CA 94105 Application to Mail at Periodicals Postage Rates is Pending at San Francisco, CA, and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: Everywhere, c/o 8020 Publishing 199 Fremont St, 12th Floor San Francisco, CA 94105 © 2007 Everywhere Magazine

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The Art World

Slow Travel

Creativity thrives all over the world. A global quest to find beautiful destinations for art lovers.

Sometimes getting there is more than just half the fun—it’s the point of the entire journey.


Points of Interest

Naturally Abstract

words & photos: audrey kanekoa-madrid everywheremag.com/people/mzaudrey20

A cool canyon provides an oasis from the Arizona sun. Antelope Slot Canyon is a natural wonder located in Page, Ariz., on Navajo land near the Utah state line. It’s a place where sandstone walls were carved by massive flash floods, creating a landscape that’s both surreal and naturally stunning. Sunlight filters through the sandstone “ceiling” as luminous sunbeams touch the sandy floor. The canyon walls generate rich hues, detailed patterns, and interesting curves. It’s best to visit from May through September, between mid-morning and mid-afternoon. That’s prime time for the light beams that pierce the ceiling. Outside the canyon, temperatures often top 100 F, but once inside, the thermometer drops by as much as 20 degrees. When you approach Antelope Canyon, there’s no obvious clue where it’s located. But three miles into a dry wash, you encounter the towering walls and can drive no farther. A short walk into an opening, and you’re in a whole new world.

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POINTS OF INTEREST

Let It Shine The author and her husband enjoy the view (top left) as sunlight illuminates Antelope Canyon’s sandstone walls.

Dispatches from travel destinations worldwide 7


Points of Interest

Lorem Ipsum Alco-Tourism

French Moonshine

words & photos: rich & ruth carlson everywheremag.com/people/talkintravel

The tiny village of Hérisson is home to a North Carolina–style distillery.

At a certain point in a European vacation the medieval villages all start to look the same. The tiny town of Hérisson located in the center of Auvergne, France’s oldest region, had the usual tourist stops. Castle? Check. Cobblestone streets? Check. Cathedral? Check. Distillery? Well, that was out of the ordinary. But we didn’t have time to investigate—we were late for a lunch reservation at the Auberge la Quecoule farmhouse. Sipping a glass of red wine and nibbling smoked trout caught from the farm’s lake, we asked the proprietor about the curious distillery sign. The Hedgehog moonshine shop had opened a few months ago, he explained. It was already so popular that lines ran out the door daily. But today, Monday, the tasting room was closed. Our crestfallen faces prompted him to phone the owner of the distillery, Olivier Perrier, who agreed to come over and see us. Sporting a chapeau, a country gentleman’s corduroy jacket, a bulbous nose, and an easy smile, Perrier was straight out of central casting. As we enjoyed salmon mousse, duck with asparagus, and potato au gratin, he explained that he’d grown up in Hérisson, but 30 years ago he formed a traveling actor troupe that eventually included a musician from North Carolina. The newcomer shared his moonshine with the actors, and eventually—after much coaxing—his recipe. When Perrier retired from the theater, he returned to his hometown, population 721, and started making hooch to fund his retirement. As we started into dessert, Perrier offered to open his store for us. The Hedgehog Distillery is tiny, so we settled on the only two stools at a curved bar and sampled the brew. The taste was smooth and soothing—more like brandy than the bootleg one might expect to find in America’s southern hinterlands. To call it moonshine is an injustice. Yes, Perrier uses a copper still and corn from his own fields. But he also ages the whiskey for three years in casks made from oak grown in nearby Troncais, a region renowned for providing the wood used to make Cognac barrels. The distillery’s best sellers are tiny screw-top bottles of moonshine that Perrier jokingly calls “pee-pee” jars. Running a close second are larger bottles shaped like voluptuous women. He produces 1,000 bottles of the nectar a year. “I’m the smallest distiller in Europe!” he proudly declared. Hedgehog may be small, but it’s so successful that Perrier established a quota: Only the first 15 customers who visit each day are served. If you don’t get in, don’t panic—Perrier’s girlfriend operates a shop next door that sells liquor made from locally grown fruit.

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Happy Hour Olivier Perrier outside his distillery in Hérisson.

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POINTS OF INTEREST Dispatches from travel destinations worldwide 9


Postcards

Travel snapshots with a tale to tell.

Holiday Geishas

kyoto, japan

Kyoto is a bustling, busy metropolis that’s not much different from most major Japanese cities. But if you make your way to the historic Gion district looking for geisha, prepare yourself: You’ll find average girls costumed by companies that specialize in dressing Japanese tourists in full geisha garb and photographing them at historical sites. It’s fun to play paparazzi and grab a few shots for yourself. JD Marsh

everywheremag.com/people/jdmarsh

The Road to Dalhousie Springs witjira national park, australia

The only way to get to Dalhousie Springs is with four-wheel drive. The springs are an oasis the middle of the Simpson Desert, and they’re just incredible. The water at Dalhousie is so warm that it takes all the energy out of you. When we arrived, the only thing to do was to lie in a tube and float around.

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Gijs Bekenkamp

jpgmag.com/people/945ontwerp

POSTCARDS A collection of travel snapshots with a tale to tell 11


Beijing, China

Trips

words & photos: Daniel Beekman everywheremag.com/people/danielbeekman

Marching Toward Communism Military Museum of the Chinese People’s Revolution

New Olympics, old Peking A hundred years ago, Beijing was an imperial village—a rustic jumble of narrow, stone alleys winding toward the imposing Forbidden City. Yet in preparation for the 2008 Summer Olympics that get under way in August, Beijing has become a cosmopolitan boomtown, with 2.7 billion square feet of construction, 11 new sports venues, and a U.S. $2.8 billion airport upgrade. Although the texture of the city is changing, there are still some places where you can experience the laid-back ambience of Old Peking. Here are some of the best.

Temples, alleys, and gardens are great if you’re interested in imperial China. But what if you prefer modern history? Head down Chang’an Jie, the city’s main east-west drag, to the Military Museum of the Chinese People’s Revolution. A cavernous building cased in marble, the museum covers China’s military history in brutal detail. Don’t overlook the 50-year-old cloth soldiering shoes or the fighter jets on the ground floor. The museum’s military maps are close to indecipherable, but the yellowed photos of China’s leaders-to-be, including Mao Zedong, are cool. Perhaps most intriguing are the wrinkled propaganda posters from World War II and the Korean War (once known in Beijing as “the War to Resist America and Aid Korea”).

forbidden city

tiananmen square

Head in the Clouds White Cloud Taoist Temple Beijing’s Buddhist sites are magnificent, particularly Yonghegong, the Lama Temple. But for a less hectic experience, head to the White Cloud Taoist Temple in the city’s rarely visited Xuanwu District. “We aren’t expecting more tourists than usual during the Olympic Games,” a clerk explains. “Everyone knows about Buddhism, but not many foreigners are interested in Taoism.” Stroll through successive courtyards and peek in on the sculpted Taoist scholars and white lanterns inside. The monks, who sport wrapped socks and topknots, speak only Chinese, but there’s a poster that demonstrates proper conduct if you’d like to pray.

Between Heaven and Earth Beijing Ancient Observatory

Forbidden Vista Jingshan Park If you’ve got just one day in Beijing, skip the Forbidden City. Instead, buy a ticket to Jingshan Park. Climb the hill where China’s last Ming Dynasty emperor hanged himself when rebels swarmed the city, and watch the Forbidden City unfold majestically beneath you. If the sky is clear, you’ll see central Beijing, skyscrapers and all. If it’s cloudy or heavy with pollution, you’ll pick out the curving rooftops of the Forbidden City and find yourself transported back in time. Imagine yourself a court official surveying your majesty’s domain, but pick up a Ping-Pong paddle and rejoin the 21st century on your way out.

SNEAK PEEK

Built in 1422, Beijing’s Ancient Observatory rises over a quiet courtyard just off the subway at Jianguomen. Chinese emperors took astronomy very seriously, because the movement of planets and stars through the sky was thought to both affect and reflect an emperor’s ability to rule. European Jesuit missionaries introduced Galileo, telescopes, and mathematical astronomy to China in the 16th and 17th centuries, which explains why, inside Beijing’s Ancient Observatory, green dragons slither up enormous bronze instruments of Italian design.

Twist and Turn Qianmen Hutong Snap a photo of Qianmen—old Peking’s hefty front gate—then tack south by southwest and plunge into a hutong. These crumbling residential alleyways were once common in Beijing, but many have been demolished to make way for shopping malls, high-rise apartments, and Olympic stadiums. The few that remain evoke the friendly lifestyle that’s unique to Beijing. Take Qianmen Xihou west for five minutes. If this street seems bland, don’t lose heart. Reach a pair of public restrooms (hold your nose) and hang two lefts onto Qianmen Xi. You’ll pass slabs of shivering tofu, cooing doves, and open-air butchers. Snake deeper south and you’ll hear a handyman trolling for work on his tricycle cart while old men play cards on the street. As one elderly resident told me, “This is the real Beijing. There are no Olympics here. Between the Forbidden City and the Temple of Heaven is where we laobaixing (common people) reside.”

TRIPS

Intelligentsia Preserved Guo Morou’s Former Courtyard Residence From Di’anmen Xidajie between the Qian Hai and Hou Hai lakes in north-central Beijing, head to the former courtyard residence of 20th-century Chinese scholar Guo Moruo. Guo, born in 1892, attended college in Japan and joined the Chinese Communist Party in 1927. A prolific poet and author, Guo was the first president of the Chinese Academy of Sciences, but he was attacked during the Cultural Revolution in 1966. He eventually confessed to having not properly understood the thought of Mao Zedong and agreed to have his books burned. Guo lived here from 1963 until his death in 1978. Very few homes like this still exist in Beijing—fewer are well preserved.

Thematic travel itineraries for cities and regions worldwide


H COPEN

explor

Strolling on Strøget A typical day on Copenhagen’s main pedestrian thoroughfare. Photo: Pernille Bell e ve rywh e r e m ag . c o m

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A street-level view of Denmark’s stylish capital city.

AGEN

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Copenhagen

c C l as s i odern ope’s M ing eur

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COPEN HAGEN

nonchalantly hip sophisticated charm makes copenhagen easy to love. Just be sure to pronounce it correctly.

Words: Abigail Phillips

5

everywheremag.com/people/velocitygirl

restaurants, and certainly in the people. Copenhagen is the birthplace of dancer Peter Martins and director Lars von Trier, the resting place of visited it. He took his first trip there in the early 1950s. I think he was philosopher Søren Kierkegaard and physicist Niels Bohr, and sometime predisposed to like the Danes because they had sheltered their Jewish home of Janus Friis of KaZaA and Skype renown. population during World War II, but the stunning design and the pleasure It’s also the wellspring for Scandinavian design: Think Georg Jensen, of traveling on a strong postwar dollar certainly didn’t hurt. He came back Poul Henningsen, Arne Jacobsen. Indeed, it’s impossible to separate with a lot of things, but the most memorable to me—although I’ve seen design (in all senses of that word) from the zeitgeist of Copenhagen. it only once—was a set of hammered silver flatware from Georg Jensen. However immune you might think you are to the lure of Danish Modern To this day it lives in a safety deposit box; my father took my sister and design, Copenhagen will seduce you. You can’t help but leave with Hans me to the bank once for a reverential viewing. So I had high hopes for Wegner and Stelton in your vocabulary of household words, and more Copenhagen, and despite a lifetime’s worth of buildup, I still fell for it. sets of stylish salt and pepper shakers in your suitcase than you know Copenhagen is a city with a low skyline of stately buildings, seven what to do with. (At least they make good gifts.) The huge Illums Bolighus hours of daylight during winter months, and as much as 18 in summer. department store on Strøget is practically a design museum in itself. I was Its inhabitants are descended from existential princes and medieval so smitten by an ashtray I saw there that I bought it, even though I don’t heroes, but it isn’t like Danny Kaye’s “Wonderful Copenhagen,” where smoke. It’s currently packed away in the closet, still wrapped in plastic Hans Christian Andersen frolics with little mermaids and ugly ducklings. bubbles. I’m thinking of renting a safety deposit box for safekeeping. That misguided 1952 classic is probably to blame for a number of misconceptions, including Americans’ persistent inability to pronounce the city’s name correctly—a mistake I relish because it so neatly mocks our efforts to appear cultivated. Copenhagen should be said with a long A, as in pagan. Ko-pen-hay-gen. It’s not pronounced with the “ah” of HäagenDazs or toboggan—Danny Kaye notwithstanding. Copenhagen is a city like Milan is a city. It’s sophisticated, and hip, and it oozes history with the understated confidence of a place that dates its founding to the 1100s—but isn’t trapped in the mythology of an epic past. The modern side slips right in, and it’s all the more appealing for its idiosyncratic resistance to the monocultural creep that can make Berlin, Prague, Rekjavik, and other northern European stalwarts seem indistinguishable from one another. In fact, Copenhagen accommodates its many eras and sensibilities seamlessly and gracefully. Walk past the colorful row houses along Nyhavn’s canal and you’ll see why classic Lego houses look the way they do. (Lego was invented in Denmark.) The artsy Hotel Fox shows off its ultra-modern chic with rooms that are individually decorated by different artists in simplistic pastel nature patterns and anime-inspired murals. Bicycles are ubiquitous, and bike lanes abound. As far as hippie culture goes, San Francisco has nothing on Christiania, Copenhagen’s famous—or infamous—“free city,” which remains starkly rough around the edges, with no nostalgia-peddling tie-dye boutiques. A street-level view of Denmark’s But back to the hipness. Copenhagen is unselfconsciously and non- stylish capital city. 6 chalantly hip. You feel it everywhere—in the architecture, the bars, the My father taught me to love Copenhagen long before I ever

1 2 3 4

1N  yhavn’s canal is lined with lively bars and restaurants. Photo: Lucca Torri 2 A friendly native dis16 plays some Danish hospitality near the Stork Fountain on Strøget. Photo: Todd Lappin

3 F oot traffic in Rådhuspladsen, the square outside Copenhagen’s City Hall. Photo: Christopher Boffoli 4R  undetårn’s round tower was built in the 17th century. Photo: Natalie Wells

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5 The stylish Skt. Petri Hotel is inside a former department store. Photo: Christopher Boffoli 6 Changing of the guards outside the Amalienborg Palace, home of Denmark’s royal family.

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Copenhagen

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slow Travel Never mind the destination. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the journey that counts.

SNEAK PEEK

SLOW TRAVEL A celebration of taking the time to travel at a leisurely pace.

On the Crest Reveling in the moment before getting lost again in the beautiful wilderness of Mongolia. Photo: Sloan Schang

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slow t r av e l

river:

The World’s Slowest Rocket A riverboat trip provides a respite from busy Bangladesh. Words & Photo: Hilary Heuler

everywheremag.com/people/safiakou

At 2 a.m. in Khulna, Bangladesh, my rickshaw rattled

past crumbling colonial arches and peaked gables to bring me to the Rocket, the riverboat that would take me to Dhaka. In the darkness I could make out only an enormous orange wheel. Contrary to its name, there is nothing speedy about the Rocket. The Khulna-to-Dhaka trip takes 28 hours—you can get there by bus in eight. These British-built vessels have been plying the waters between Dhaka and West Bengal since the 1920s. First-class passengers experience the river much as their colonial predecessors did. The boat trips may not be efficient, but the riverboat business is booming—trips sell out daily.

I awoke the first morning in my elegant first-class cabin, which came complete with wood paneling, a fan, a reading lamp (circa 1945), and a small sink. I wandered onto the deserted first-class deck and was enchanted by the scenery. The shore slipped by like an impressionist painting: Green rice fields and golden sand glowed through the morning mist. Women in bright saris strolled by onshore, fisherman waded into the water with nets, someone on the bank waved. The steward, Mr. Biswas, deliberate and proprietary in his tidy red uniform, brought a breakfast of fried river fish, omelette, toast, and tea served on delicate gold-rimmed china. Our first shore leave on the rowdy port of Barisal made me realize what an anachronism the Rocket really is. Dwarfing our quiet vessel was the future of riverboat travel: a flock of brightly lit commercial cruise ships blasting Hindi music across the water. Later, as I watched the flickering lights of the shore drift past, it occurred to me that this didn’t feel like transport. Certainly not the typical Bangladeshi variety—no frenetic bus stations, no bone-shattering roads, no suicidal drivers who make you regret not having drafted a will. But when I opened my eyes at dawn after the second night, I was thrust into the chaos of barges, canoes, and clanging bells at Dhaka’s port. I barely had time to collect myself before I was hustled off the boat and back into modern Bangladesh.

Tubing on the Nam Xong River Vang Viang, Laos Words & Photo: Julien Simery everywheremag.com/people/yoshindustry

Tubing in Vang Viang is one of the most popular activities for backpackers in Laos. The rules are simple: Sit in your tube, relax, stop at every village you see (to buy a Beer Lao or take a jump in the river), and go as slowly as possible. The twoand-a-half-mile ride down the river can take the entire day.

Belem to Manaus in Amazonia Along the Amazon River, Brazil Words & Photo: Chris Bamber everywheremag.com/people/bamber

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SLOW TRAVEL

We waited four days in Belem for a boat that would take five days to reach Manaus. Once under way, there were two ways to sleep: in a hammock or in a cabin. This photo shows the hammocks; it also explains why I chose a cabin. After two days on the boat, I found myself wondering if five days would be enough to settle into the pace of life on the river.

A celebration of taking the time to travel at a leisurely pace. 20

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Points The Essentials of Interest

How I Fell in Love with a Japanese Toilet words & photos: christopher boffoli everywheremag.com/people/carsonchang

The simple pleasures of taking care of business in Tokyo.

When I entered my room at the Park Hyatt Shinjuku—the high-rise hotel made famous by Lost in Translation—it was all I could do to tear myself away from the panoramic views of Tokyo. Everything about the place impressed me: the chic decor, the cloudlike bed, the flat-screen HDTV, the intricate tea set on the mini bar. But the most special part of my room at the Park Hyatt was the toilet. If you’re not already sold on the notion that Japanese culture reigns supreme, using a Japanese Washlet toilet will seal the deal. But for the uninitiated, these electronic devices can be a bit intimidating. So sit back, relax, and find out why Japanese toilets may be the apogee of human technological innovation. SNEAK PEEK

The Orientation

The Sit

The Cleanse

The first thing I noticed when I sidled up to

Resting on the cozy warmth of the heated

When I was done, I hit the spray button. A

the toilet in my hotel room was the control

seat was a pleasant surprise. After I settled

small wand protruded from the back of the

panel protruding from the seat. A toilet with

in, an electric eye activated a tiny fan to

toilet, and a gentle stream of warm water

a control panel had to be special. An array of

remove any unpleasant odors I might create.

cleansed my undercarriage. I increased and

buttons, in Japanese and English, provided

Conveniently, there was even a button on the

decreased the pressure, then selected the

commands for various functions, includ-

control panel for adjusting the speed of this

undulating spray function, which caused

ing spray (with adjustable pressure), bidet,

quiet little blower. With my business offi-

the wand to move around to clean all the

and drier. Rows of blinky lights added some

cially begun, I could hardly wait to find out

affected areas of my hinder parts. I confess

extra excitement.

what would happen next.

my preference was for the strong stream.

The Bidet

The Dry

The Epiphany

With the bidet function, the wand moved

With lingering regret, I turned off the myr-

After my ride on this marvel of plumbing

just a little bit farther forward, toward the

iad sprays and streams and selected the dry

technology, I wondered why the United

front of the bowl. From the tiny diagram on

function. A warm breeze blew over all that

States is so lavatorially challenged. I gazed

the button, I surmised this function was

had just been cleaned. This function was

in stunned silence at the incredible vistas

intended for women, but it wasn’t unpleas-

nice, but I didn’t have the patience to allow

outside my windows, ate another green-tea

ant for me either. I suppose I can generally

it to dry me off completely. It was a bit like

Kit Kat, and wondered just what Bill Murray

endorse having a gentle stream of warm

using hand-blowers in public bathrooms—

whispered to Scarlett Johansson in the last

water directed at one’s nether regions. It’s

they never quite get you dry. With just a

scene of Lost in Translation. In my post-Japa-

actually rather delightful, and it’s much

little paper blot, I exited the bathroom feel-

nese-toilet state of mind, I decided it’s more

more civilized than toilet paper.

ing fresh as a daisy.

fun not to know.

THE ESSENTIALS

Share your expertise on all things travel 22

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Points The Essentials of Interest

Going West in a 1977 Westfalia words & photos: sloan schang everywheremag.com/people/sloanschang

Modern Electronics When we’ve heard enough Conway Twitty on the radio, the iPod is a lifesaver. We carry two digital cameras, a Nikon D40 and a Canon Powershot s70, to document funny signs, weird food, new friends, and great campgrounds. Laptops provide the occasional movie night and help us stay in

Simple necessities for transcontinental travel in a vintage VW camper. I’m driving a 30-year-old Volkswagen camper on a 45-day cross-country road trip from Florida to Oregon. My girlfriend, Amy, and I are taking it easy—favoring small country roads and rarely driving more than five hours a day. But a little preparation makes living and traveling in a small, antique space much more fun.

Rooftop Gear Bag We use it to hold an electric fan for hot nights, a few sticks of firewood for roasting marshmallows, and an empty gas can that, thankfully, has never been used.

Maps and Guidebooks Forget GPS units. We find our routes the old-fashioned way: by balancing maps on our laps while rolling down the highway. Some favorite guidebooks are Eccentric America and Frommer’s Best RV and Tent Campgrounds in the USA, but it’s more fun to ask locals for tips or to just guess.

touch. Happily, most private campgrounds and some state parks now offer Wi-Fi.

A Dog Our dog, Cleo, not only deters

Repair Toolkit

nighttime raccoon invasions;

Worrying about breakdowns

she’s also great company when one of us is driving and the

Books and Postcards

other is napping in back.

Reading and writing are our

can distract from a day of solitude on a gorgeous, isolated desert road. No cell service, no towns for 100 miles, no cars

favorite ways to pass downtime,

in sight—no problem, right?

and sending postcards gives us

Right. We carry VW repair

a reason to visit some charming

manuals, assorted spare

middle-of-nowhere post offices.

parts, extra motor oil, and a really big roll of duct tape.

Heaters Cooking Essentials

It gets cold at night,

We stay on a tight budget by

even down south. Luckily, private camp-

cooking our own meals using

grounds and many state

a two-burner propane stove.

Souvenir Stickers & Magnets

where you can plug

cooler that keeps food fresh for

Commemorate your visit to national

days, which is perfect for eat-

monuments, wacky roadside attrac-

ing healthy. Cooking fresh also

tions, or “world-famous” diners with

means we visit many delight-

a bumper sticker, window decal, or

ful, small-town grocery stores

magnet (which sticks to the camper’s

and trading posts. To avoid

metal insides). Current favorites: a

watery diner coffee, I use a

“Birthplace of Bill Clinton” magnet

French press to make my own.

from Arkansas and “Make Levees,

Nothing goes with spectacular

Not War” from New Orleans.

scenery like a good cup of joe.

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parks provide outlets

The camper has a built-in

in an electric ceramic heater. But the best campgrounds are usually at the end of long gravel roads that aren’t served by any utilities.

SNEAK PEEK

THE ESSENTIALS Share your expertise on all things travel

That’s when we huddle around the propane heater until lights-out. 25

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Points of Interest

Tried and True

The Stuff You Won't Leave Home Without.

TSA-Friendly Travel Bottles Silicone Travel Bottle by PKOH steven leckart everywheremag.com/people/stevenhl I love airports as much as I love traveling—what’s cooler than gawking at a 737 and then flying in it? But I’m not crazy about the TSA’s tedious and frequent deconstruction of my luggage. In the last year, these two-ounce silicone bottles have saved me a lot of checkpoint grief. They’re small enough to carry on, transparent enough that the TSA doesn’t bat an eye, and darned stylish. Better still, the bottles are pliable, so you can easily squeeze out the last bits of shaving cream, sunblock, toothpaste, or whatever. Less waste, less hassle. The refill spout is super wide, allowing for quick refills. They’re also color-coded, for easy organization. A set of two isn’t cheap ($20), but their efficiency alone is priceless. The bulb shape and bottom spout help gravity work its magic—whatever’s inside is always near the spout where you need it, when you need it.

Travel for a Year, or Just a Day

The World’s Best Travel Pen Fisher Bullet Space Pen

Eagle Creek Grand Voyage 90L

corey jones

michael kay

everywheremag.com/people/cjonesgo

everywheremag.com/people/mikekay

Americans spent millions of dollars developing a pen that can write upside-down,

My trip to Latin America posed a thorny luggage dilemma.

underwater, over grease, and in space. What did the Russians use? A pencil. So

I planned to travel for a year, alternating between weeks on

the joke goes. But there’s truth to the story: Paul Fisher really did spend millions

the road and longer stops in one place. I wanted a day pack,

developing the technology for this pen, and yes, it does write upside-down, under-

weekend bag, and larger carry—all rolled into one. Luckily, I

water, and in space (though I haven’t tried). But these technical accomplishments

stumbled across the Eagle Creek Grand Voyage. After finding

are beside the point. The true beauty of the Bullet pen, which costs between $18

my room for the night, I can zip off the day pack for a light-

and $40, is its size. With the cap off and attached to the back, it’s a full-size writ-

weight carry-along. The padded straps are comfortable, and

ing instrument. Cap on, it’s a mere three and three-quarters inches long. It’s well

the main compartment is deceptively roomy. A hidden pouch

constructed and has a pleasant weight to it. Its smooth torpedo shape is unobtru-

offers a bit of security for your passport and other valuables,

sive in your pocket. Whether you need to write directions to your hotel, frantically

and the dual side pockets hold all the water you need on hot

draw a picture of a toilet, or jot down the digits for the hottie at the bar, the Bullet

days. A separate shoe sack is a nice touch for muddy footwear. Side straps allow you to compress either pack into the size you

SNEAK PEEK

want. For those who hop on and off planes a lot, the long zip pocket that hides the straps from hungry baggage carousels is a wonderful touch. 26

pen is an essential travel tool.

TRIED AND TRUE Testimonials about your favorite travel tools 27

e ve rywh e r e m ag . c o m

• I ssue 0 2


cool , casual Copenhagen Timeless beijing Art tourism

T RAV E L I S A L L A R O U N D YO U

Miami beyond the beach

Slow Travel

The Journey is the Destination

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