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Substance. SENIOR EDITOR Scarlett Lucia Giannotti EDITOR Eleanor Penny ART DIRECTOR Melody Cleland FASHION DIRECTOR Scarlett Lucia Giannotti & Melody Cleland PRODUCT FEAUTURE EDITORS Rosie Cartwright & Eleanor Penny FEATURES EDITOR Rosie Cartwright

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BUSINESS & FINANCIAL ASSOCIATES Claire Frances Gerrard & Michelle Anderson

CONTRIBUTORS | PHOTOGRAPHY | Ariana Zappa WRITERS | Sophy Davis-Russell MAKE-UP ARTISTS & HAIR | Chhimmi Dholkar Gurung, Christie Marie Phedon SPECIAL THANKS TO | LENIS MODELS OXYGEN MODELS NA’AMA RIETTI LUCY ADJOA ARMAH AMBER HARDS LINA FEDIRKO SUKJIN MOON BETH HAYS THOMAS ELEANOR WHISTON FREYJA SEWELL AMANDA MARJORIE SALWAY OXFORD UNIVERSITY BOTANICAL GARDENS CLOCK PROPS LONDON

FOR ENQUIRES: INFO@SUBSTANCEMAGAZINE.COM WRITE TO US: SUBSTANCE MAGAZINE 7 SHAFTSBURY HOUSE LONDON E9 8SF WWW.SUBSTANCEMAGAZINE.COM


Substance. Contents

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Product Designer Interviews | 23 Fashion Designer Interviews | 32

The Savile Row Standard | 54 The Shape Of Things To Come | 68

The Elements Of Detail | 92

Timeless | 106

Jasper Morrisson | 45

Amazonica | 80

Product Lookbook | 116


Sukjin Moon interview | rosie cartwright & eleanor penny

An interview with young designer Sukjin Moon the designer behind the peculiar 'Leather Spectacles,' RCA graduate and RCA summer exhibition exhibitor.

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Why did you want to be a product designer? I really wanted to create things that people connect with on a materialistic and emotional level. Whether it be the material the product is made from or the idea and morals behind it.

Can you sum them up in 3 words? Natural, Comfortable and Reused.

What other product designers do you admire? Po-Chih Lai was another designer who was in the RCA summer exhibition, I really like his work, he’s a real engineer as well as a designer.

Do you have any favorite fashion designers? I really like Alexander McQueen, it’s very experimental but still crafted so well.

Can you tell us the story behind your Leather Spectacle design? Well they are made from the offcuts of leather from the well-known and respected Brookes bike saddles, I really liked the idea of using a material that would otherwise have gone to waste. I also chose to work with leather on a pair of glasses, which at first will seem strange, but for the wearer it will be a much more enjoyable experience than wearing a plastic pair. The texture of leather is similar to skin, so when worn directly on the face, it makes the wearer feel comfortable and natural.

What is your most prized possession?

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Probably my laptop, I don't know what I’d do without it


Eleanor Whiston photography| eleanor penny interview | rosie cartwright

Having graduated from the Product Design degree course at Kingston University, Eleanor talks to us about her experience in the industry and her latest work.

Why did you want to be a product designer? I am absolutely fascinated by everything that we use has and needs a purpose. And how it can enhance an environment with idea, emotion and fun. I like going beyond how a product should or is expected to be.

How did you find breaking into the industry after graduating? I was extremely lucky I got an internship with Feather & Black furniture company as a buying assistant. It’s not a design position but I felt it was a good opportunity to see the other side of design, focusing more on the business and how it’s run, seeing what actually makes a company buy a product and how they communicate with the designers. I think it’s important to get experience from both sides.

What is your most prized possession? It would probably be all the family photos I have,

all of my memories. And maybe my camera, I couldn’t live without it.

What other product designers inspire you? I really like Alex Hellum, his designs are simple, honest and there is character to each piece.

Are there any fashion designers that inspire you? I really like Vera Wang’s designs, their very floaty and functional. I really like the balance between function

What is the idea behind your woven light fitting?

It was a project about weaving. I chose a material and use that material only to produce it. I chose electrical wire because once the wire is damaged, it can’t be reused, I used the wire to weave using an old Peruvian method of weaving. I liked the idea of using a modern age material in a historic way. The light that the woven wires let through guard the bulb but still let light through in a unique way, giving a soft lighting to the environment its placed in

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Beth Hayes - Thomas photography| rosie cartwright interview | eleanor penny

An interview with emerging product designer Beth Hays Thomas; the designer behind the zirconia ceramic deskware.


What is your most prized possesion? Why did you want to be a product designer? I don’t really think of myself as a product designer. I did photography at GCSE and A level but really started to enjoy 3D design when I moved onto foundation where I did a lot of work on furniture so I think it just happened. After this though I knew I wanted to work with furniture and I wanted to be able to experiment as I love making.

How have you found breaking into the industry after graduation?

Can you sum them up in 3 words? Intuitive, durable and simplistic.

What other product designers do you admire? Jasper Morrison. His designs are simplistic yet classic and he has a great appreciation for form. Hella Jongerius’ work is also really inspiring.

Can you tell us the story behind your designs? It was self directed and really researched based so I did a lot until ideas started to form from it. I wanted to work on something materials based and also give myself a challenge so I decided to look at perception and how others perceive objects based on what material they are made out of. This lead on to looking at behavior patterns and how people fiddle with stationary and small objects etc. So I began to interpret people’s unconscious thinking. I then discovered zirconia ceramics, which I felt, hadn’t really been explored in great detail. It’s a press-molded material, which is hard and durable like steel but also sharp like glass. This material was perfect as it allowed me to create items that would last a lifetime and have a stamp of quality whilst also being classic and timeless. I always try to work like that. I want people to have investment pieces that they can one day hand down to their children or grand children.

Do you have any favourite fashion designers? I love Jeremy Della’s Haywood Collection. I take a lot of inspiration from my flatmate too, she loves the stories and ideas behind clothes

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I’ve been extremely lucky! I had really successful tutors and am currently working at Sugru, a company that makes a hand-formability and self-adhesion material that’s a bit like modeling clay. They came along to my degree show then later I got an email offering my a job. They basically gave me a concept and allowed me to be creative with it, which was great.

I have two cups that I got in a flea market in Portugal. They have a grandma on one that says ‘I love you’ and a granddad on the other that says ‘I need you’. I really love those cups.


Freyja Sewell photography| rosie cartwright interview | eleanor penny

Substance magazine sits down with Design in Residence, Freyja Sewell as she talks about breaking into the industry, her career so far and how she came to design her E.I.S stool

Why did you want to be a product designer?

Do you have any favorite fashion designers?

I’ve been creative my whole life, since I was really young and I’ve always found product design fascinating. I love that

I love Hassan’s designs, but I don’t feel I have a particular favourite. I take a lot of inspiration from Japanese culture as well as fashion.

it needs rules to function.

How have you found breaking into the industry after graduation? I was lucky! I designed and showcased my pod chairs then I was contacted 3 months later with a job opportunity, which gave me a good start. Then a couple of months later I was offered Designer in Residence at the Design Museum, which was really exciting. I feel I have a much better skill set now.

Can you sum them up in 3 words? Simple, Functional, Thrifty

What other product designers do you admire? I love Bethan Grey’s furniture design and I’m a huge fan of Thomas Heatherwick.

What is your most prized possession? I have an Optimus Prime figure that I take everywhere with me. He’s sitting in the studio at the moment. He’s like my lucky charm or little mascot! But apart from him I’d have to say my laptop, I would be lost without it!

Can you tell us the story behind your designs. Well I fell in love with bamboo while travelling and have wanted to work with it since. It’s the fasted growing material on the planet; it’s like a super plant! With the stools I used purely bamboo, as I didn’t want to use anything else like glue that would take up more energy. So it is made and held together by the strength of the material itself

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Amber Hards The young fashion designer who is breaking boundaries with knitwear and whose inspiration for her newest collection derives from the Jellyfish. not an inspiration most It’swould have or even have

With her work having been shown in London Graduate Fashion week and at Shanghai Fashion Week, it has been an exciting and emotional year for Amber Hards. Three years of hard work has culminated in this and now her work can be seen on catwalk and on professional models. Getting through to the Gala Show was not only an amazing personal achievement for Hards but a massive feat as a designer. All of which she says she could not have done without the support from her studio partners.

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the creative mind to conjure up in their wildest dream, but structured pieces inspired by the form, colour, texture and movement of jellyfish is the muse for the collection of the exciting and innovative designer Amber Hards. One of the most striking pieces from her collection, and in fact Hards’ favourite piece is the asymmetric dress. It embodies her theme wholly and really communicates the elegance and flowing movement of the

Hards hoped to be designing for her own label in London in the near future, but admits it will take years of hard work before she gets there. “So for now success is not giving up and trying harder to push my ideas

Hards, who is interested in producing innovative knitwear, aims to let people experience something new and unexpected when witnessing her work. Her unique approach challenges the conventional way of knitwear, rocketing it into the 21st century. There’ll be no knitted jumpers here; it is Hards’ individual method on which she prides herself. Her designs are limitless. One of the most striking pieces from her collection, and in fact Hards’ favourite piece is the asymmetric dress. It embodies her theme wholly and really communicates the elegance and flowing movement of the inspirational sea-creature.

forward.”

What does SUBSTANCE mean to you?

Hards, who is interested in producing innovative knitwear, aims to let people experience something new and unexpected when witnessing her work. Her unique approach challenges the conventional way of knitwear, rocketing it into the 21st century. There’ll be no knitted jumpers here; it is Hards’ individual method on which she prides herself. Her designs are limitless.

Amongst knitted nylon monofilament and Lycra, there seems to be elements of structuring. Hards’ says that as her design method developed as did the structure and shape of her pieces. Though not particularly inspired by architecture, she is inspired by the architecture of knit, and it is in using these techniques that she has found her own style as a designer and really set herself apart.

photography & styling|melody cleland & ariana zappa words | Claire frances gerrard fashion assistant|scarlett giannotti

“Substance to me has great meaning, this is relevant to me as I'm forever trying to show people fashions worth. I don't just design clothes to be worn, there’s a whole concept behind them which I think is sometimes more important than the clothes.

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Fashion is art”


Lina Fedirko Lina Fedirko is a young eco-luxury designer who aspires to reform the fashion industry through her innovative design ideas and their executions. We take a look at her new designs that explore the concept of truly timeless clothing.

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ot your usual designer, Lina Fedirko pursued a masters in policy after her fashion pathway to create a higher level of influence in the world of sustainable fashion. She was born and raised in western Ukraine, and moved to the States 10 years ago in pursuit of her dreams.

Every part of the collection is versatile, can be worn inside out and re-pinned and bottoned in all sorts of ways, this allows the wearer to make a new garment every time they put it on depending on what they desire, always keeping it fresh and new. She has produced pure forms of clothing, experimenting with seams to create her beautiful suprematisit clothing.

“The collection was aimed to enhance the interaction between wearers and clothing, just as much as it was about self-expression. With that, I wanted to encourage creative interaction with my pieces. The consumers typically get creative input in how they combine different pieces, and less so in how the actual pieces are worn. A shirt is always a shirt, and pants are always pants. Elevating creativity is telling them to push boundaries when using my pieces.”

The collection is meant to persist and constantly inspire the life of a customer. Its eco-consciousness is also meant to remind the customer to cherish and preserve our clothes and sustain a full-filling life, never losing sight of the need for inner well-being apart from materialistic world. Every part of the collection is versatile, can be worn inside out and re pinned and bottoned in all sorts of ways, this allows the wearer to make a new garment every time they put it on depending on what they desire, always keeping it fresh and new. She has produced pure forms of clothing, experimenting with seams to create her beautiful suprematisit clothing.

What does SUBSTANCE mean to you? Substance is the anything beyond the physical item. It’s the thought that went into constructing it, the thought that went into choosing the fabric, color, and any other factor that makes it ‘the’ piece in your wardrobe

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photography & styling |melody cleland & ariana zappa words | michelle anderson fashion assistant|scarlett giannotti

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She has a very regimented way of experimenting with her concepts and this is what makes her collections so thought provoking and interesting. Eco-conscious, innovative, inspiring and stylish, her new collection takes inspiration from her favourite designers Gareth Pugh and Viktor and Rolf and deals with the concept of timeless fashion, pieces that never look tired, old or out of date using the right colours and materials.

The beautiful element of incorporating old vintage clock parts within the pieces adds to the element of the timeless concept with a striking result, the cogs against the sophisticated black silk shows Fedirko’s deeper understanding to her designs, each item can be easily dissembled, recycled, or reconstructed into something else. The one piece pattern for each item is also easy to replicate at home or by a seamstress, making it easy for a customer to produce a variation of the item, or to repair it with a new top layer .


Lucy Adjoah Armah Lucy Adjoa Armah is an emerging talent creating pieces with a new and engaging aesthetic. Her clothing is so distinguished in design that at first it goes unnoticed that her collection incorporates denim. So revolutionary in the way she has employed it, the final visual is something different and striking. Denim has been redesigned.

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culptural pieces are a tendency in her work, most probably stemming from her background in art. We can see that her breadth of study has informed what she is about as a designer, and this is articulated in every stitch, hem and pleat.

further experimenting with denim, and exploring the undiscovered possibilities of the material. Nevertheless, her skillset is clear, and there is no doubt her individuality as a designer will carry her forward to better things.

Having been asked where she sees herself in the next 10 years, Armah replied, “With my own label, and much more, which I’m keeping close to my chest right now.”

With interest in utilitarianism, fashion history and design anthropology, there are themes that shine through to Armah’s final designs. Workwear, sportswear and military uniform across culture and throughout history are her most prevalent subjects, with heavy focus on the workwear of the American south from the turn of the 20th century, Romanian peasant costumes, and the robes of North African nomads, her work is abundant with culture and life.

What does SUBSTANCE mean to you? “To me, substance is an object or idea that has meaning and purpose beyond the visual. I don’t really think I’ve reached a stage in my work where I am actually achieving substance. But I am working on it”

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It seems somewhat disheartening to think that we may not have been graced with such beautiful fashion design as Lucy’s initial interest was in Architecture. Though, it was the more tactile nature of fashion in comparison to architecture

that allured her to study it. Despite her mere beginnings, the quality in her work prevails and it is evident that the time and thought involved with producing such a collection was consuming but worthwhile. Currently she is refining her techniques,

photography & styling|melody cleland & ariana zappa words | claire franes gerrard fashion assistant|scarlett giannotti


Na’ama Rietti The Na’ama Rietti aesthetic combines unique handcrafting skills with the use of natural and exotic materials to create extraordinary and exclusive designs and accessories. Since graduating from Kingston university in 2010 we have a look into Na’amas new collection.

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a’ama Rietti is anything but a label. An artist, sculptor and designer, she creates unique one off and limited addition art wear from beautifully crafted leather and knitwear. She works with natural materials exploring her ideas through a process, almost primordial , which is free, expressive and reflects directly from her tastes, values and beliefs . Her designs are created from the subconscious, exploring new shapes, lines and textures through working in 3D, photography and sketching. Her past collections have derived from ambiguous images resembling creatures or bodily forms which seem to emerge from imagery during the creative journey, the process is the heart of these designs and her new collection is no different. Described as ‘Exotic Primordialism’. Na’ama’s new S/S 13 accessories collection revisits the roots of her childhood, travelling around Israel and other Mediterranean countries, She remembers the wild, the rough, the rugged and the sublime, marbled floors, white stone buildings, knotted string hammocks and hairy mountain goats.

These unique creations are derived from the exotic purpleheart wood from South America and have been specially hand-crafted by Zhak Rietti, the unusual wood naturally turning a deep purple colour when exposed to light add’s a unexpected element to the collection, known for its healing and spiritual properties the wood represents her free spirit and together brings a natural synergy.

I think craftsmanship and quality have and will always be relevant. As much as we may allow ourselves to be consumed and mislead by inevitable developments and changes in our cultural systems and environment, craftsmanship and quality is relevant in all aspects of our daily lives and is what we strive for in all forms of true creativity, innovation and development”

Each hoop is combined with Rietti’s signature sculpted sillks available in natural and soft pink. These silks are hand-spun in India and are named Aleena Silk, Arabic for paradise. Having asked Na’ama how important she believes craftmenship and quality are she responded : “ I think craftsmanship and quality have and will always be relevant. As much as we may allow ourselves to be consumed and mislead by inevitable developments and changes in our cultural systems and environment, craftsmanship and quality is relevant in all aspects of our daily lives and is what we strive for in all forms of true creativity, innovation and development.

What does SUBSTANCE mean to you?

The new collection of hand crafted body wear/ornamental accessories are each representing one of 6 elements of creation – Mind, Heart, Soul, Womb, Feminine and Masculine. Each one as equality tactile and striking as the next.

photography & styling|melody cleland words | michelle anderson fashion assistant|scarlett giannotti

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Existence , knowledge, consciousness


Complex Simplicity An insight into the exclusive world of Jasper Morrison, his shop and the designers that grace his shelves.

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Words | rosie cartwright photography | eleanor penny


01 Jasper Morrison for Alessi Salad Bowl This lightly brushed, stainless steal salad bowl designed by Jasper for Alessi is timeless and stylistic allowing it to look perfect in any dining room.

Jasper Morrison Ashtray

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Crafted from grey melamine, this understated design classic would make an impeccable accessory for your coffee table.


02 Rex Peeler A beautifully designed peeler that is classic and practical.

Supply Watering Can Breaking away from the generic watering can design and colouring this simplistic, durable piece will add an essence of style to any garden.

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As you enter through the huge black doors of 24b Kingsland Road in the heart of Shoreditch, you feel as though you are entering into the exclusive world of Jasper Morrison. A world that is filled with innovation, creativity and most importantly an appreciation for brilliantly crafted product design. The shop itself with its pristine, painted white walls surrounded by greenery is a work of art in itself. As you walk through the glass-plated doors it is impossible not to notice the exquisite layout of the pieces available to purchase from the designer himself, as well as other established artists in the industry. It is clear there has been a careful thought process gone into the placing of each individual item and the thought of touching anything is almost nerve wracking. As well as stocking his own products, Jasper Morrison plays host to a world of talented designers that strive to bring perfection into your daily lives. With brands such as Alessi,

Zena, Pentel and Gateway the shop has been able to develop a visual language that projects quality, class and elegance. He had captured my attention through the beautifully placed products and had somehow left me fascinated by spoons, pens and scissors, There were a number of items that caught my eye; particularly the Rex peeler and Supply watering can that embody the same aesthetics as the shop itself and are definite design classics. So weather you are looking for the perfect wine glass, ash tray, saucepan or even potato peeler there is no doubt that you will find it on the shelves of Jasper Morrison; a true staple of excellence within product design

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The Savile Row Standard

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An inside look and interview into the world of Anderson & Sheppard with Head cutter Mr John Hitchcock of Anderson & Sheppard Savile Row tailors at their Old Burlington Street shop.

Words | eleanor penny photography | rosie cartwright


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nderson & Sheppard is an infamous Savile Row Tailors. Tailors to Fred Astaire, Charlie Chaplin, The Prince Of Wales and more recently Kate Moss. Founded by Swiss Per Anderson and Englishman Sidney Horatio Sheppard. Now comanaged together by John Hitchcock and Anda Rowland who’s father bought the company in 1970.

In an age where men are more interested in fashion and trends and what their seen wearing, especially in the workplace, a man’s suit is a reaction of the workplace in fashion. A suit can be seen a fashion statement not just a work uniform, it’s the personal choices, changes and preferences to their suit which shows how they want people to perceive them.

As I approached the 32 Old Burlington street shop of Anderson & Sheppard, I was a wash with nerves, but all this dissolved as I walked in through the double wooden doors to be greeted by the rather tall and handsome salesman in a dark navy A&S suit.

Although tailoring is such a traditional craft, the Savile Row tailoring industry is still very much alive and thriving, “People definitely still crave tradition and craft, despite popular belief.” I believe Anderson & Sheppard are unique in the way that they have managed to target a client who wants tradition but approached them in a modern way, this is evident in their still growing popularity and reputation.

The front room of the shop decorated with a hint towards an old gentleman’s club to make any gent fell at ease, with leather sofas, a grand marble fireplace, dark wood furnishings and shelves bursting with old measurement books. I notice a metal tray on a side table with an array of sherry and whisky, for a client to sip on as he ponders his new suit. “No customer is ever rushed. In the old days, it was not uncommon for a gentleman to build a leisurely day around a visit to Anderson & Sheppard.”

As I am shown into the long room at the back of the shop were the suits are cut to meet my interviewee, head cutter and co-manager Mr. John Hitchcock, who has been working at A&S since he left school at sixteen in 1963. With only a few people in the back room where the suits are cut it is hard to believe they are able to make so many suits for their many clients, with fifty hours work put into every suit. I notice the wall with paper patterns hanging from rails, I can only imagine some of the names those patterns belong too. “They are a unique personal record of a person, widows have been known to request the patterns of their late husbands.” As I begin, I ask Mr. Hitchcock about the relationship he has with his clients he explains, “It’s a very special one. Although we have had the likes of Prince William and designer Tom Ford in this very changing room, they all have to take their trousers off to put the next pair on, you have to make them feel at ease and comfortable with you.” A&S obviously offer a very personal service and really take the time to get to know their clients preferences. “As you get to know a client you definitely get to know what little things they prefer about their suits, buttons, different pockets or coloured linings. A suit can be a very personal thing or it can be a very generic thing.”

The company has been brought into the modern day with the help of comanager Anda Rowland. Having began her carrier in cosmetics marketing working for brands such as Estee Lauder and parfums Christian Dior in Paris, was appointed co-manager in 2004 and joined the board of The Savile Row Bespoke Association in 2006. “It was Anda’s idea to start the blog, she also redesigned the whole website and oversaw the interiors of the new shop when it was being refurbished, she’s really helped us stay modern and current.” The apprentices blog is set up to give an incite into the training of an apprentice cutter at the firms own academy a few streets away from the shop. The apprentices learn under senior tailor John Kyricou, where they learn the craft specifically as it is practiced at A&S. The academy has proved very successful, with a long waiting list for the academy and the blog has been very successful not only as a blog, but as an advertising device to show customers they still care about teaching the craft to a young generation, and that this is an industry to buy into. Being located on Old Burlington street rather that directly on Savile Row, A&S still associate themselves as a Savile Row tailors. “The name Savile Row isn’t just a street anymore, it’s a stamp of quality.” The tailors has been around so long it could be said that A&S is one of the standard setters of the tailoring industry in London. With appointments for overseas clients in America, pilgrimaging to the source of British tailoring are such clients as Tom Hanks, Ralph Lauren and Tom Ford, which is a testimony to the reputation of A&S.


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“Although tailoring is such a traditional craft, the Savile Row tailoring industry is still very much alive and thriving”

Substance.|59 One of the most interesting things about A&S is that they have not franchised, it has remained one shop with a small number of staff since it opened in 1906, but is still a thriving business. “The trick to a good business is not getting bigger, more powerful and more impressive, a lot of tailors sell Readyto-wear suits, that’s not what we do here, if you come to A&S you know your going to get quality no matter what.” The idea of a suit from A&S is that its something that lasts forever, which you cant say about many things these days, especially clothes. Although A&S have made suits for women such as Marlene Dietrich and Kate Moss, they do not make women’s suits. A&S are more than happy to make a suit for a woman, providing they wear a men’s suit. “Kate Moss was having lunch at the restaurant on the corner of the road, and went out for a cigarette and walked past the shop and came in for a men’s blazer, I think she was going for the boyfriend blazer look.” One of the most famous members of staff that has graced the tailoring rooms of A&S is Alexander McQueen.“ When Lee was working here you could see that he had a natural talent.” Having started out as a tailor before rocketing into fame as a famous couturier, it seems tailoring can be a way into other careers. By perfecting the art of cutting or sewing can put you in good stead for a career in fashion.


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“Anderson & Sheppard is a stamp of true quality.�

Anderson & Sheppard are truly the standard bearer of Savile Row. With only a select number of staff that only work for A&S, the consistent quality of their suits out shine any price tag. With such a throw away Britain mentality the A&S experience is one everyone should experience once in a lifetime. Anderson & Sheppard is a stamp of true quality.

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THE SHAPE OF THINGS TO COME Photographer | melody lexi cleland stylist | scarlett lucia giannotti


Architectural Fashion|57 Dress | Eudon Choi Jacket | Chalayan


Architectural Fashion|58 Top | JW Anderson Trousers | Balmain

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purple top ASOS white trouser TOPSHOP


PVC Skirt | Mugler Top | Dolce and Gabanna

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Dress | Maison Martin Margiela


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'Amidst the botany, awakens the lost boy.'

AMA ZON ICA photography|claire frances gerrard stylist|michelle anderson assistant stylist|scarlett giannotti


Previous Page | Trousers | Maison Martin Margiela. Shirt and Jacket | Amanda Marjorie Salway. This page | Shirts (worn as jacket) Amanda Marjorie Salway.

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Left Page| Shirt Prada, Trousers Amanda Marjorie Salway This Page | Shirt Amanda Marjorie Salway

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Previous Page | Shirt, Floral Crop Shirt and Waistcoat Amanda Marjorie Salway Shorts D Squared. Left Page | Shirt Amanda Marjorie Salway Shorts Marc By Marc Jacobs. This Page | Shirt Amanda Marjorie Salway.

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The Elements Of Detail T

he days of the clothes hanger are gone; the structure of our garments & their detail now overshadowed by the model. Here the garments are shown with the simplicity they would have encapsulated before.

photography & styling | melody cleland & ariana zappa


Dress Christopher Kane


Jacket Caroline Charles


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Dress Balmain


Skirt Gucci


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This Page | Shoes Missoni

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Timeless Roger Lascelles has spent the past 30 years building a collection of vintage and antique clocks that is second to none. In the premises of the old Wandsworth clock factory Roger maintains a collection of over 500 clocks, ranging from antique grandfather clocks to huge external turret dials, from Bakerlite mantels to old French enamels. Roger still frequents antique markets and auction houses at home and abroad and with the help of a small team of skilled craftsmen, will often enjoy reviving an old electric clock that has seen better days, into a fully functional clock using a modern quartz movement, while maintaining all the charm and character of the original.

words | sophy davis-russell photography | michelle anderson


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jones london wall clock | circa 1990


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ur whole lives are based around a clock. Everything we do is governed by time and the clock has become something seemingly insignificant which blends into our surroundings but is in fact the basis around everything we do. The clock is so adaptable that its presence is seen as prominent in fashion as it is in product design and interiors. Over time this necessity has been transformed into an iconic object. Its journey from conception has been a long one, with many adaptations along the way. From its mere beginnings as a sundial, the clock’s first authentic recorded state, time has been measured in multiple ways and methods.

“Objects are changing and developing all the time and the clock is no exception”

As far back as history will go people have needed to be able to tell the time to some degree however timekeeping is a relatively new idea. In ancient Egypt people tried to measure the time from the length of the shadows using a sun dial which was simply a post in the ground.

The word clock ultimately derives from the Celtic words for ‘bell’ – ‘clagan’ and ‘clocca.’ The invention of the mechanical clock during medieval times meant clocks were used to signal prayer in European monasteries.

“Watches are at the highest level of sophistication and are continuously developing”

Clock making began in England in 1368 until eventually the pendulum clock was invented. Christian Huygens’ invention meant that by the 1600s clocks had a working minute hand. Although the pendulum clock was a huge breakthrough it still had its problems as it would have to be restarted when used for a long time. This problem was then solved by the external battery in 1840 which eventually developed into an internal battery being fitted into the clock around 1906.

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Other age-old methods include using sand glasses and candles to tell the time and as far back as 4000 BC water clocks were used in China. These worked by water being forced through to make the gears and levers move. Water clocks were later found to be used in Babylon and Ancient Greece also.


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Over the years the clock has undergone major developments and changed drastically through the ages. This means in the future it could be something so far from what we are used to today leaving it unrecognisable. Microsoft has a wide range of ideas for potential wrist watches which could be used in the future to help with different areas of our lives. The ‘webcam watch,’ ‘mood watch’ and ‘info watch’ all indicate that eventually wrist watches may not even be used to tell the time anymore. For example, the ‘info watch’ is a wristwatch which would be wirelessly connected to the internet, allowing the wearer to access useful pieces of information. With technology evolving constantly the possibilities for a wrist watch in a future even more technologically advanced than today are endless.

This aside clocks have become an object of fashion in interiors and design. The wrist watch is said to be one of the most popular gadgets of all time and that too has become an object of desire nowadays. The first known wrist watch was made in 1510 and it was a huge development at the time. However the wrist watch was not commonly used until around the 1800s when it became the natural progression on from the less practical pocket watch. In1868 Swiss watchmaker Patek Philippe made a watch for Countess Koscowicz which was the first known wrist watch primarily used as a precious piece of jewellery. In modern day, as with most things in life, watches have become instruments of capitalism and the development of the wrist watch from its humble beginnings to the pieces offered to us nowadays is astounding.

In 1926 popular watch brand Rolex created the first waterproof one and 30 years later managed to create a watch which also displayed the date and time, a feature which nowadays is very common. Another breakthrough for the wrist watch was in 1999 when Casio managed to add a GPS device to their watches. This leads us to the great array of desirable watches available to us in this century. Watches are at the highest level of sophistication that they have ever been and are continuously developing. Ultimately nowadays the wrist watch has become a mere fashion accessory and is treasured as a collectible piece of art or jewellery. Most designer brands now hold a collection of watches to their name and the difference in their prices is vast. Rolex, Guess and D&G remain popular brands for luxury watches, with prices ranging

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The first successful alarm clock was created in 1867 by Seth Thomas who had also created the first clock in America. This new invention allowed people to set it to whichever time they wanted. This was an important development on the original clock that had proceeded it which only went off at 4am. However, once again the alarm clock is something else we take for granted in this modern day as we have many other means of setting an alarm. Nowadays the term ‘clock’ is loosely used, referring to anything that displays or measures the time. In our daily lives the clock is inescapable as we see so many in many different forms. Clocks displayed on our mobile phones, laptops and in public places mean that we rarely even need look at our own wall clocks.

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| sakonda royal london | circa 2010 skeleton pocket watch bakelito mantel clock | circa 1950

ous items that they are today. In the modern day everyday objects are changing and developing all the time and the clock is no exception. Time controls everything we do however as everything becomes digitalised it is hard to predict what significance the clock we know and love today will have for us in the future

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from within the hundreds to the thousands. Last year saw Michael Kors’ most recent collaboration with Fossil to create a range of luxury watches which have had great success due to their fashionable design and affordable price range from just £60 to £300. Clocks are so crucial in our everyday lives


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Product Lookbook What we put on our bodies reflects what we put in our homes.

Photography | Eleanor Penny assistant | rosie cartwright


Alexander Mcqueen SS13 look 12

Alessi juicer


Jonathon Saunders SS13 Look 7

Kartell Toobe Table Lamp By Ferruccio Laviani


Gareth Pugh SS12 Look 10

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Ligne Roset Bloom Ceiling Light by Hiroshi Kawano


Wild and Wolf 1950s Silver Dreyfuss 500 Telephone


Marcus Lupfer SS13 Look 4

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Victoria Beckham SS13 Look 9

Habitat tam tam stool


Substance. Designer Directory Product Designers | Sukjin Moon: sukjin.moon@network.rca.ac.uk Mobile: +44 (0) 759 0908 321 Beth Hays Thomas : info@bethhaysthomas.co.uk Number : +44 (0)7572445141 Freya Sewell : Email: freyja@freyjasewell.co.uk Number : 07788246461 Eleanor Whiston: Email info@eleanorwhiston.co.uk Number: +447826856643

Fashion Designers | Na’ama Rietti : namushka@hotmail.co.uk Number : 0750 600 4663 Amber Hards : info@amberhards.co.uk Number - +447976 983119 Lina Fiderko info@linafiderko.co.uk Number - +447978 87764 Lucy AdoJoa Armha info@lucyadojoaarmha.co.uk Number: 076089564732

Product Lookbook | Heals: Number : TCRreception@heals.co.uk Number : 08700 240 780 Habitat : customerservices@habitat.co.uk or call 0844 499 4686. Amazon : customerservices@amazon.co.uk Number 0844 770 1878

Agencies | Oxygen Models : lydia@oxygenmodels.com Number : +44 (0) 207 351 20000

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Editorials | Missoni - E-MAIL: me@mirabel-edgedale.ltd.uk Number : Tel 0044 207 352 2 400 Balmain : Edithaubert746@msn.com Tel : 33 (0) 1 47 20 35 34 D-Squared: info@dsquared.co.uk Telephone: +44 207 287 9890 Marc by Marc Jacobs : customerservice@marcjacobs.com Telephone: 877-7076272 Prada : customerservice@pradauk.co.uk Telephone +44 (0) 318 5467 Maison Martin Margiela press_uk@margiela.com telephone +33 1 44 53 63 20 Mugler: customer.relations@muglerstore.co.uk Telephone: 01279 774 240 Dolce and Gabanna customerservices@dolceandgabannauk.co.uk Telephone +44 (0) 207 317 3346 Cos customerservices@cos.co.uk Telephone: Customer Service 0844 249 20 79 JW Anderson customerservices@JWAndersonuk.co.uk Telephone +44 (0) 207 6878 4333 Eudon Choi info@eudonchoi.com Telephone +44 (0)20 7739 0308 Chalayan enquiries@chalayan.com Telephone: +44 2079 207 823 Gucci - assistance@uk-onlineshopping.gucci.com Number : +44 (0)207 318 3348 Caroline Charles: melanie@carolinecharles.co.uk tel: 0207 225 3197



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