VINTAGE fashion magazine

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VINTAGE

the latest trends done vintage style

FASHION FALL

GOLD RUSH

all that glitters for a brand new season

VINTAGE

a quarterly magazine featuring vintage items from Shop Stylaphile and more

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Take a trip back to the Big 80's with gold lamé dresses, jackets and accessories that shimmer and shine against a backdrop of basic black.

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EDITOR’S LETTER

Fall is my absolute favorite time of the year, especially when it comes to vintage clothing.

From 70s style pleated skirts to (groundbreaking?) florals for fall, these are the trends that matter most. SOLID GOLD

PINSPIRATION

Check out all the looks from the Fall 2024 runway shows that inspired the trends in this issue.

TREND REPORT

WATCH & READ

Binge-worthy biopics showcasing looks from the 40s, 60s, and 70s, plus books about a few fashion GOATS.

Photo: photo-lime - stock.adobe.com

more in this issue

WHY IS VINTAGE CLOTHING SO SMALL?

Ever wonder why vintage clothing is so much smaller than contemporary sizes? Here's some insight.

VINTAGE CLASSICS

The pussybow blouse gets a glamourous update with boxy blazers and a vintage brooch.

NYC VINTAGE SHOPS

If you're visiting the Big Apple, here's a list of my favorite spots to score the best vintage.

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ALL THE COLORS

Turquoise, orange, & purple are the jewel tones you'll see everywhere this fall season.

CLUTCH PLAYERS

Vintage patent clutch bags prove they're perfect for a night - or a day - on the town.

SWEATER WEATHER

Four ways to style 80s oversized sweaters, from happy hour to Friday night lights. 46

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IT'S A GLOVE STORY

The gloves are off! Well, actually, they're on. On in a big way, in every shape and style.

MAD FOR PLAID

Nothing says "backto-school" like a plaid skirt, coat or jacket. Even better? A cape!

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VINTAGE COSTUMES

A standout vintage piece can turn you into a famous fashion icon for Halloween this year.

Photo: stock.adobe.com

Iwould send you a bouquet of newly sharpened

pencils if I knew your name and address. I always think about that quote from Tom when the fall season rolls around. Hanks’ character in You’ve Got Mail

As a kid, I was never that thrilled about going back to school, but I did get excited about shopping for back-to-school clothes. Fall is my favorite.

In this issue, you’ll find all the fall trends, done vintage style. And since Halloween decor is already out in the stores, I included a few easy costume ideas with vintage pieces you can wear again and again. Happy Fall Y'all! all of the orange links in this issue are shoppable! editor@vintagefashionmagazine.com vintagefashionmagazine.com

1960s silk gown with brocade overlay and velvet waist

Click here to shop all the vintage looks in this issue

SYDNEY STONE
Aldo necklace
Fendi sandals

PINSPIRATION

Click on any of the Pinterest boards below to see the Fall '24 runway looks that inspired this issue

Check out all the Fall 2024 fashion boards on Pinterest

GLOVES
FLORALS
DESERT HUES

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S H O P S T Y L A

P H I L E . C O M

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TREND REPORT

Fall ‘24 fashion is all about feeling cozy while looking fabulous...

Faux

Furries

In every color of the rainbow and all proportions imaginable, the fuzzies are definitely ready for their close-up.

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Desert Dunes

Sun-baked nudes & sandy beige tones bring warmth to autumn wardrobes plus a neutral base for jewel tones and classic black.

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Pleated

Skirts

Nothing gives “back-to-school” fashion feels quite like a pleated wool skirt paired with knee-high boots and a cozy turtleneck.

TREND REPORT

...from faux fur to wearable art, the season’s trends are all about making a statement.

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The Big 80s

Shoulder pads, bold colors, leather, pleather and denim...this season, the big 80s are back in the biggest way.

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Flower Power

Florals for spring are never groundbreaking, but for Fall ‘24, they’re taking center-stage, in both botantical pattern prints and 3-D appliques.

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Sculptural Style

Art and fashion have always been intertwined. This fall, the streets act as runways and art galleries with museum-inspired sculptural looks.

Faux Furries

Faux fur originated in the late 1920s after a tax on real fur to fund war efforts caused demand for a more affordable option.

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1. WETMT bucket hat, $12 2. Vintage Y2K faux fur coat , Size S, $59
3. Flairs New York earrings, $10 4. Finiluo leather & wool bag, $64 5. Fericzot loafers, $60 6. Yuakou faux fur jacket , S-4X, $62

Vintage Note:

The classic camel overcoat was invented by London-based fashion brand Jaeger in 1919.

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Desert Dunes

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1. Anrabess cardigan, XS-XXL, $40 2. Minachi wooden earrings, $8

3. 1970s suede top, Size XS, $75 4. Herbatomia plaid skirt , S-XXL, $30

5. Poraday sunglasses, $12 6. Bostanten bag, $37 7. Taos sneakers, $150

Pleated Skirts

Pleated wool skirts took center stage in 1972 when Women’s Wear Daily featured Yves Saint Laurent’s versions on its April 24th cover. Vintage Note:

Pivanzore jacket , S-L, $26
Vintage 90s Candies top, Size S, $35
Sangtree pleated skirt , S-4X, $35
Milata dinosaur bag, $19 5. Katliu boots, $60 6. Sam Edelman heels, $105 7. Vintage 70s skirt , Size S, $59
Lucky Brand pendant , $39

The Big 80s

Shoulder pads became prominent in the 1930s after an MGM costume designer named Adrian helped Joan Crawford hide her perceived “problem area” in the film Letty Lynton. Vintage Note:

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1. Vintage John Richard sweater dress, Size S, $125 2. DIYANMMY earrings, $5
3. 1980s Lillie Rubin cat sweater, Size L, $325 4. QZUnique cube bag, $20
5. HLBandage faux leather skirt , XS-XXL, $40 6. Charles Albert ankle boots, $35

Flower Power

Vintage Note:

The term“flower power” coined in the 1960s applied to fashion as well. It showed up in psychedelic floral prints representing the LSD experiences people were having.

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1. Vintage 1960s dress, Size M, $125 2. Bellivera jacket , S-XXL, $55
3. Basoteeuo skirt , XS-XXL, $26 4. Roper ankle boots, $65
5. Coach cargo tote, $185 6. Keds slip-on sneakers, $60

Vintage Note:

The 1970s & 80s saw designers such as Kansai Yamamoto, Issey Miyake & Rei Kawakubo showcase fashion as art with theirsculpturalavant-gardecreations

Sculptural Style

1. Make Me Chic sweater, XS-L, $40 2. Vintage 1980s hat , $75
3. Vintage 1980s St. John dress, Size 10, $549
4. Kluolandi heeled mules, $50 5. Rebecca Minkoff clutch, $87

TELEVISION

BINGE WATCH

Hard to tell which stands out more in these biopics...the compelling stories or the vintage fashion

Over the last several years, the lives of famous fashion designers have become binge-worthy. I remember when American

Crime Story: The Assassination of Gianni Versace debuted in 2018. Even though the story centered around serial killer Andrew Cunanan, many, including myself, tuned in to get a glimpse into the world of the designer. In 2021 came Halston, a miniseries about my favorite designer starring Ewan McGregor. I watched that one twice.

This year, there have three more fashionable series that have me bingeing, clicking, and pausing to get a better look at the vintage clothing. There’s already talk of a second season of Becoming Karl Lagerfeld after the success of the six-episode debut on Disney+ in June. Now available on Hulu, the series explores Lagerfeld’s life in the 1970s, focusing both on his career and his romantic relationship with Jacques de Bascher.

The New Look centers around Christian Dior’s work during the World War II Nazi occupation of Paris, as well as his strained relationship with Coco Chanel. It also highlights the bravery of his sister Catherine, (Lady Dior) who was part of the French Resistance, was captured by the Nazis, and went on to survive a concentration camp. (As a lover of both fashion and a good hero's journey, the finale had me so emotional I could barely speak.)

While the series is not focused on a designer in particular, (although Bill Blass does make an appearance), Feud: Capote vs. The Swans puts you right in the middle of New York City during the 1960s and 70s, as some of Vogue’s best dressed socialites at the time, including Babe Paley, C.Z. Guest, and Lee Radziwill, jockey to become

Becoming Karl Lagerfeld

Hulu

created by Isaure Pisani-Ferry, Jennifer Have, and Raphaëlle Bacqué for Disney+

starring Daniel Brühl as Karl Lagerfeld

The New Look

created by Todd A. Kessler for Apple TV+

starring Ben Mendelsohn as Christian Dior Apple TV+

Feud: Capote vs. The Swans

Hulu

created by Ryan Murphy, Jaffe Cohen, and Michael Zam for FX

starring Tom Hollander as Truman Capote

the belle of Truman Capote’s legendary Black & White Ball. The star-studded cast includes Naomi Watts, Calista Flockhart, Diane Lane, Chloë Sevigny and Molly Ringwald. Tom Hollander is so good as Truman Capote that I found myself watching old YouTube interviews of Truman just to see if I could tell the difference.

Of course, all three of these biopics have one thing in common when it comes to fashion. You’ll come for the story, but you’ll stay for the clothes.

VINTAGE GOATS

Currently obsessed with life stories of the fashion greats

In addition to the hundreds of vintage fashion magazines that stock the shelves of my office, I’ve started accumulating

a growing collection of fashion biographies.

The most recent addition, Pat in the City, is all about Patricia Field’s ascent to becoming the most well-known costume designer and stylist of all time, thanks to her groundbreaking work on Sex and the City. In the book, Field describes her early days working in New York City’s East Village, the evolution of her unique style, and her overwhelming influence on pop culture. It’s a must-read not only for fans of SATC, but fashion enthusiasts in general.

Diane von Furstenberg’s The Woman I Wanted to Be has been out since 2014, but I’ve only recently gotten around to reading it. A lifelong

advocate for women’s empowerment, Diane shares her journey from being a young girl with dreams of independence to becoming a fashion superstar known for her iconic wrap dress. It’s not just a story about fashion, however. It’s a powerful testament to the strength of a woman determined to carve her own creative path.

Anyone in fashion will tell you that Grace Coddington is by far the greatest editor in the history of magazine publishing. In her 416-page biography entitled Grace: A Memoir, Coddington discusses her entry into the fashion world as a teenage model in the 1960s, the car accident that forced her to change her career course, and her relationship with Anna Wintour at Vogue. The book is filled with fashion illustrations by Grace herself, as well as personal photographs from her decades of work in the industry.

THE PUSSYBOW

The tie blouse with staying power, this 1970s wardrobe staple gets the back-to-school (or back-to-work) treatment with a boxy blazer and a statement brooch

vintagefashionmagazine.com

Vintage 70s floral blouse, $59 (modern alternative, $19); vintage 80s Cimmaron blazer, $75 (modern blazer alternative $43); vintage brooch (modern alternative $10)

THE PUSSYBOW BLOUSE

SHEER GOLD

Gold is the “IT” neutral color this season...make it pop with a jet black topper

Vintage 70s sheer blouse, $59 (modern alternative, $26); 1950s wool jacket , $75 (modern jacket alternative $30); vintage brooch (modern alternative $14)

Colorblocking is always on-trend, and purple & pink pair perfectly for fall

1970s magenta blouse, $59 (modern alternative, $28); vintage velvet blazer, $75 (modern blazer alternative $52); vintage starburst pin (modern alternative $9)

THE PUSSYBOW BLOUSE

FLORAL RED

Satin floral tie-blouse + cropped wool jacket = the working girl uniform of the 70s and 80s

Vintage 70s floral blouse, $59 (modern alternative, $26); 1980s red wool jacket , $59 (modern jacket alternative $59); vintage brooch (modern alternative $9)

VINTAGE NEW YORK

My favorite NYC haunts for vintage hauls

Buying vintage is my business. It’s also my favorite thing in the world to do. Over the years, I’ve managed to find a few special spots in Manhattan that never fail when it comes to finding the most unique treasures. Here are my top five.

1. Goodwill

103 West 25th Street

This is hands down the most organized thrift store I've found in the city. The front racks are arranged by color. Rows of designer items are prominently displayed on racks opposite the check-out counter. Conveniently located near Herald Square, this particular Goodwill is one of several second-hand stores located in the area I’m now calling the “thrift district.”

2. Buffalo Exchange

114 West 26th Street

One block north from Goodwill is the sprawling metropolis of second-hand clothing known as Buffalo Exchange. It’s one of several locations in the city, and you’ll have to search through a lot of contemporary clothing to find vintage gems, but they’re there! I’ve never left this store empty handed. They also have a huge selection of shoes and handbags. The people that work here all have incredible style and are extremely nice. It's just a fun place to shop.

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New York Vintage

117 West 25th Street

New York Vintage is like walking into a fashion museum. This is where stylists & editors go to pull rare vintage looks for

celebrities. I mostly go just to browse because it’s really expensive, but I have purchased a few items for my personal collection here.

4.

Unique Boutique

487 Columbus Avenue

Located on the Upper West Side near Central Park, Unique Boutique is another spot I never walk out of empty-handed.

While the prices aren’t as low as Goodwill or Buffalo Exchange, there is a better selection of vintage and designer pieces.

5. Grand Bazaar

100 West 77th Street

Saving the best for last, by far my favorite place in the city for vintage shopping is Grand Bazaar. I’ve been going here

for so long that I still call it the “Greenflea” which is what it was originally named. Open only on Sundays, it’s the city’s oldest and largest curated weekly shopping market. I stumbled upon this place back in 1999 while visiting from Atlanta. I moved to NYC a year later and this is still the first place I take friends and family when they visit.

WILLIE MITCHELL

The artist’s 3-D fashion cards have become an obsession

Imet Willie years ago at the Greenflea (Grand Bazaar) on the Upper West Side of Manhattan. My friend Jeannette and I were strolling around the outdoor market on my birthday. When we stumbled upon Willie’s table, we were both blown away by his talent and the uniqueness of his designs. She bought me one of his cards as a birthday present right there on the spot. That began my obsession with Willie as well as my collection. Since then, I’ve ordered more pieces that now line the walls of my vintage studio and office.

The artist, left and a few of his pieces that adorn my studio wall above.

Willie studied at Parsons School of design and has worked at brands such as Liz Claiborne and Victoria’s Secret. His work has been featured in magazines, TV, and film. He hosts pop-ups at several markets around the city, but if you’re not lucky enough to see him in person (he’s truly one of the kindest people on the planet!), you can order his designs at the links below. He also does custom work, so if you’re thinking about sending out really unique Christmas cards this year, I suggest you order early!

Etsy Shop: etsy.com/shop/wmitchelldesigns

Website: williemitchelldesigns.com

Instagram: instagram.com/williemitchelldesigns

S H O P S T Y L A P H I L E . C O M

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VINTAGE

reader stories

Do you have a great vintage story? I'd love to share it in an upcoming issue. Send it to: editor@vintagefashionmagazine

Veronica Howard

Atlanta, Georgia

her vintage 1980s floor-length hooded coat her story

my husband Larry and I purchased this vintage coat for my mother-in-law Annette at a thrift shop several years ago. When she passed away in 2022, I inherited it. Now when I wear it, it makes me think of her and reminds me what an incredible person she was.

her favorite fashion decade the 90s

her

vintagefashionmagazine.com

Veronica, left, and
mother-in-law Annette, below

SWEATER WEATHER

Big 80s big sweaters are perfect for cozy fall outings. Here’s how to style each one of these cuties...

Jumpstart your weekend in shiny pleats & sexy boots

Fits Most $30

Franco Sarto Boots $122
Alla Sim Skirt S - XL $20
Size S $75
Lucky Brand Necklace $35
Think Royln Bag $179
Coriresha Sweater One Size

FRIDAY NIGHT LIGHTS

Tackle the gridiron in lightwash jeans & Doc Martens

Size XL
$59
Nine West Tote
$60
Kendra Scott
Earrings
$55
Doc Martens
Chelsea Boot
$170
Plum Feathers
Pashmina Scarf
$17
NYDJ Jeans
Anrabess Sweater Sizes
Ross-Simons Gold & Onyx Earrings $299
Urban CoCo Velvet Mini Skirt $18 Sizes
Jessie Acrylic Top-Handle Bag
Citizen Bianca Watch
$225
Kenneth Cole Sandals $110

SUNDAY APPLE PICKING

Blend in with the fall foliage in a colorblock crewneck

Coasion Aviator

Sunglasses $19

MODERN ALTERNATIVE

Sizes S - XL

Sizes XS - 3X

VINTAGE

Size L

$125

Fossil “Rachel” Satchel $155
Spanx Faux
Leather Leggings
$98
Dirty Laundry
Ankle Boots $45
Tory Burch
Earrings $98
Zesica Oversized Sweater $37

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FALL back

1960s Shillito's Cincinnati leather gloves, $75
vintage
Jason Maxwell sweater
$59
1980s gold lamé hat $175
1980s bespoke halter dress, $125
1980s bolero jacket with sequin trim $175
1960s SATIN LINED CAPE
Kate Spade satchel
1950s PLAID PEACOAT
Michael Kors bag
1950s WOOL CAPE
Aldo Topworth Bag
Calvin Klein satchel
1980s WOOL BLAZER
Tory Burch Thea bag
Kate Spade Madison satchel
1970s EVELYN DE JONGE SKIRT
Steve Madden bag

WHY IS VINTAGE CLOTHING SO TINY?

If you’re a vintage lover like me, you understand the frustration of buying a collector’s piece online - in what you think is your size - only to have it end up being way too small. Here’s why.

ell, I’m a six. Which is the new fourteen! That dialogue from The Devil Wears Prada can also be used to describe vintage sizing. Only in reverse. A size 14 dress from the 1950s will fit like a size 6 today. Why the discrepancy?

In order to understand the stark contrast between vintage and contemporary sizing, we have to explore historical fashion trends, changes in body shape and size over the years, and the evolution of modern-day sizing systems.

Historical Fashion Trends

Clothing has always been influenced by culture. And culture is constantly in flux. For example, in the 1950s, the hourglass figure was popularized by Hollywood stars such as Marilyn Monroe and Grace Kelly. Dresses at that time were designed to accentuate a tiny waist and fuller bust and hips.

Photography: Adobe Stock Images

In the 1960s, fashion was all about the “youth quake,” with mini-skirts and shift dresses that were more suited for models with slender, boyish silhouttes like Twiggy. Historical fashion trends were also heavily influenced by the economy. During turburlent times like the Great Depression and World War II, the rationing of fabric was quite common. This led to more conservative use of materials and smaller, more utilitarian clothing designs. As a result, standards for sample sizes and sizing in general were impacted for decades to come. That’s why fashion models have always tended to be so small. It’s a lot less expensive for a designer to produce a size 2 sample than a size 12, since less fabric is required.

Changes in Body Shape & Size

In the early to mid-20th century, people generally had smaller body frames due to healthier dietary habits and less sedentary lifestyles. Portion sizes were smaller and physical labor was much more common. This resulted in overall leaner body types. Anthropometric data collected over the years shows a significant growth in average body size. This is primarily due to the increase in consumption of fast food and overly processed options. According to research published in a 2018 Woman’s World article, women in the 1950s had an average waist size of 27.5 inches. In 2017, that average jumped to 34 inches. Today, most designers have finally embraced changing body types and offer more size-inclusive collections. However, finding vintage pieces in larger sizes can be quite challenging.

Modern Day Sizing Differences

Another prominent challenge to understanding vintage sizing is the lack of standardization among manufacturers throughout history. Each design house has it own built-in sizing protocols.

The key to buying vintage online is knowing your exact measurements and proportions.

Even modern brands such as GAP and H&M have different sizing standards. This is because clothing manufacturers consider the design, cut, and fit of their garments as intellectual property that can give them a competitive advantage. That’s why many consumers will express preference for a certain brand simply because they like the way it fits.

Vanity sizing also adds to the discrepancies between vintage and contemporary clothing measurements. Brands will often label larger garments with smaller size tags to appeal to a buyer’s desire to feel thinner. This is yet another method of enticing brand loyalty that further exacerbates the confusion around vintage versus modern-day sizing.

Finally, natural shrinkage and fabric wear over time can cause a vintage piece to become even smaller after they’ve been washed and rinsed repeatedly. This is particularly true for natural fibers like cotton and wool, which are more prone to shrinking.

The best advice for knowing whether a vintage garment will fit is simply to try it on if you have the opportunity. However, if you’re buying online, the key is to know your exact measurements and understand your proportions. If you’re a classic hourglass, a 1950s or a 1980s belted shirtdress will fit much better than a 60s shift or a 90s slip dress. Understand your body type, and then you can unleash your inner vintage fashionista.

Turquoise, orange, purple... the most popular shades of the season shine bright like a diamond

1960s turquoise chiffon cape dress vintagefashionmagazine.com

1960s beaded silk gown with puff sleeves
1990s Bill Blass satin trench coat

1980s embellished and embroidered linen jacket

1980s plum purple skirt suit

CLUTCH PLAYERS

Y2K Nahui Ollin recycled Godiva candy wrapper bag

1950s pebbled leather clutch

vintagefashionmagazine.com

1950s MM patent bag with gold o-ring closure

The Gloves Are On

vintage gloves clockwise from top left: 1950s crystal embellished cotton gloves, worn with Argenti Notte velvet dress; 1950s navy blue gloves, worn with vintage red boucle coat; 1960s black lace gloves, worn with vintage silver twinset; 1960s leather gloves, worn with vintage blue peacoat

VINTAGE HALLOWEEN

Why buy a cheap costume when you can invest in a stunning vintage piece or modern alternative you’ll wear again and again? Pick a decade, add a few creative accessories, and suddenly you’re Marilyn, Audrey, Janis, Penny Lane, or even classic 80’s Madonna...

Fun Fact: Ben Cooper was dubbed “the Halston of Halloween” in the 1970s for his creative plastic masks and vinyl costumes based on film and television characters.

vintagefashionmagazine.com

MARILYN MONROE

LUI SUI

Badgley Mischka

FASHION TRIVIA

The white dress Monroe wore in The Seven Year Itch was made by costume designer William Travilla. It was sold to an anonymous buyer at a 2011 auction for $4.6 million.

FASHION TRIVIA

Givenchy's original version of the dress Audrey Heburn wears in the opening scene of Breakfast at Tiffany’s was considered too risqué by the studio because it showed too much leg. Costume designer Edith Head had to redesign the lower half prior to filming.

Vintage Gunne Sax dress Size 0 $125 Pumpkin purse $45

JANIS JOPLIN

$19

FASHION TRIVIA

In a 1968 Vogue profile, writer Richard Goldstein described Joplin as, “the most staggering leading woman in rock...she slinks like tar, scowls like war... clutching the knees of a final stanza, begging it not to leave.... she can sing the chic off any listener.”

PENNY LANE

Wilsons Leather Suede Coat Size L

FASHION TRIVIA

Betsey Heimann, costume designer for Almost Famous, handmade all of the key pieces in the film, including the famous “Penny Lane” coat. She also designed the costumes for Pulp Fiction and Reservoir Dogs

MADONNA

Vintage 80s embellished jacket

Size L $125

FASHION TRIVIA

In the 1985 movie Desperately Seeking Susan, costumer Santo Loquasto utilized several items from Madonna’s own closet. He also handmade the iconic jacket that the film centers around.

SOJOS sunglasses $14

Spider-web bat purse

$17

Tulle half slip skirt S-XXL

$15

GET THE LOOK

Kedera Jacket
Fun Shack 80s wig Pearl cross necklace XS-XXL $39 $15 $10

The 1980s Napier Necklace

My poor sister. I used to steal all of her stuff back in the 80s. I would rationalize it by saying that she was in college, had a job and could afford the good stuff. I was still in high school. Besides, I was just "borrowing" it. This Napier necklace in particular I had on permanent loan.

Napier advertisements had the catchiest taglines. Napier is happier Nappier is flirtier. And my personal favorite, Napier is jet-settier.

When I asked my sister recently what happened to the necklace, she said thought she still had it somewhere, but could never locate it. She was probably just trying to keep me from stealing it again.

I managed to find one on Etsy last year, and I wear it just as much now as I did in the 80s. If my sister ever finds hers, she might want to consider selling it. Some of these pieces are collectors' items now. And collectors, like me, will always pay a hefty price to buy back a piece of our youth.

Images, top right: a photo of me in the mid-80s, probably getting ready to go to the mall. middle: the Napier magazine ad that started it all; bottom: me wearing the necklace last year after I found it on Etsy.

THANKS FOR READING!

the winter/holiday issue is coming in November click here to get it the second it drops!

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