VINTAGE
the latest trends done vintage style

the latest trends done vintage style
all that glitters for a brand new season
a quarterly magazine featuring vintage items from Shop Stylaphile and more
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Take a trip back to the Big 80's with gold lamé dresses, jackets and accessories that shimmer and shine against a backdrop of basic black.
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EDITOR’S LETTER
Fall is my absolute favorite time of the year, especially when it comes to vintage clothing.
From 70s style pleated skirts to (groundbreaking?) florals for fall, these are the trends that matter most. SOLID GOLD
Check out all the looks from the Fall 2024 runway shows that inspired the trends in this issue.
WATCH & READ
Binge-worthy biopics showcasing looks from the 40s, 60s, and 70s, plus books about a few fashion GOATS.
Ever wonder why vintage clothing is so much smaller than contemporary sizes? Here's some insight.
The pussybow blouse gets a glamourous update with boxy blazers and a vintage brooch.
If you're visiting the Big Apple, here's a list of my favorite spots to score the best vintage.
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Turquoise, orange, & purple are the jewel tones you'll see everywhere this fall season.
Vintage patent clutch bags prove they're perfect for a night - or a day - on the town.
Four ways to style 80s oversized sweaters, from happy hour to Friday night lights. 46
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The gloves are off! Well, actually, they're on. On in a big way, in every shape and style.
MAD FOR PLAID
Nothing says "backto-school" like a plaid skirt, coat or jacket. Even better? A cape!
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VINTAGE COSTUMES
A standout vintage piece can turn you into a famous fashion icon for Halloween this year.
Iwould send you a bouquet of newly sharpened
pencils if I knew your name and address. I always think about that quote from Tom when the fall season rolls around. Hanks’ character in You’ve Got Mail
As a kid, I was never that thrilled about going back to school, but I did get excited about shopping for back-to-school clothes. Fall is my favorite.
editor-in-chief
In this issue, you’ll find all the fall trends, done vintage style. And since Halloween decor is already out in the stores, I included a few easy costume ideas with vintage pieces you can wear again and again. Happy Fall Y'all! all of the orange links in this issue are shoppable! editor@vintagefashionmagazine.com vintagefashionmagazine.com
1960s silk gown with brocade overlay and velvet waist
Click here to shop all the vintage looks in this issue
Click on any of the Pinterest boards below to see the Fall '24 runway looks that inspired this issue
Check out all the Fall 2024 fashion boards on Pinterest
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Fall ‘24 fashion is all about feeling cozy while looking fabulous...
In every color of the rainbow and all proportions imaginable, the fuzzies are definitely ready for their close-up.
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Sun-baked nudes & sandy beige tones bring warmth to autumn wardrobes plus a neutral base for jewel tones and classic black.
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Nothing gives “back-to-school” fashion feels quite like a pleated wool skirt paired with knee-high boots and a cozy turtleneck.
...from faux fur to wearable art, the season’s trends are all about making a statement.
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Shoulder pads, bold colors, leather, pleather and denim...this season, the big 80s are back in the biggest way.
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Florals for spring are never groundbreaking, but for Fall ‘24, they’re taking center-stage, in both botantical pattern prints and 3-D appliques.
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Art and fashion have always been intertwined. This fall, the streets act as runways and art galleries with museum-inspired sculptural looks.
Faux fur originated in the late 1920s after a tax on real fur to fund war efforts caused demand for a more affordable option.
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Vintage Note:
The classic camel overcoat was invented by London-based fashion brand Jaeger in 1919.
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1. Anrabess cardigan, XS-XXL, $40 2. Minachi wooden earrings, $8
3. 1970s suede top, Size XS, $75 4. Herbatomia plaid skirt , S-XXL, $30
5. Poraday sunglasses, $12 6. Bostanten bag, $37 7. Taos sneakers, $150
Pleated wool skirts took center stage in 1972 when Women’s Wear Daily featured Yves Saint Laurent’s versions on its April 24th cover. Vintage Note:
Shoulder pads became prominent in the 1930s after an MGM costume designer named Adrian helped Joan Crawford hide her perceived “problem area” in the film Letty Lynton. Vintage Note:
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Vintage Note:
The term“flower power” coined in the 1960s applied to fashion as well. It showed up in psychedelic floral prints representing the LSD experiences people were having.
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Vintage Note:
The 1970s & 80s saw designers such as Kansai Yamamoto, Issey Miyake & Rei Kawakubo showcase fashion as art with theirsculpturalavant-gardecreations
Hard to tell which stands out more in these biopics...the compelling stories or the vintage fashion
Over the last several years, the lives of famous fashion designers have become binge-worthy. I remember when American
Crime Story: The Assassination of Gianni Versace debuted in 2018. Even though the story centered around serial killer Andrew Cunanan, many, including myself, tuned in to get a glimpse into the world of the designer. In 2021 came Halston, a miniseries about my favorite designer starring Ewan McGregor. I watched that one twice.
This year, there have three more fashionable series that have me bingeing, clicking, and pausing to get a better look at the vintage clothing. There’s already talk of a second season of Becoming Karl Lagerfeld after the success of the six-episode debut on Disney+ in June. Now available on Hulu, the series explores Lagerfeld’s life in the 1970s, focusing both on his career and his romantic relationship with Jacques de Bascher.
The New Look centers around Christian Dior’s work during the World War II Nazi occupation of Paris, as well as his strained relationship with Coco Chanel. It also highlights the bravery of his sister Catherine, (Lady Dior) who was part of the French Resistance, was captured by the Nazis, and went on to survive a concentration camp. (As a lover of both fashion and a good hero's journey, the finale had me so emotional I could barely speak.)
While the series is not focused on a designer in particular, (although Bill Blass does make an appearance), Feud: Capote vs. The Swans puts you right in the middle of New York City during the 1960s and 70s, as some of Vogue’s best dressed socialites at the time, including Babe Paley, C.Z. Guest, and Lee Radziwill, jockey to become
Hulu
created by Isaure Pisani-Ferry, Jennifer Have, and Raphaëlle Bacqué for Disney+
starring Daniel Brühl as Karl Lagerfeld
The New Look
created by Todd A. Kessler for Apple TV+
starring Ben Mendelsohn as Christian Dior Apple TV+
Feud: Capote vs. The Swans
Hulu
created by Ryan Murphy, Jaffe Cohen, and Michael Zam for FX
starring Tom Hollander as Truman Capote
the belle of Truman Capote’s legendary Black & White Ball. The star-studded cast includes Naomi Watts, Calista Flockhart, Diane Lane, Chloë Sevigny and Molly Ringwald. Tom Hollander is so good as Truman Capote that I found myself watching old YouTube interviews of Truman just to see if I could tell the difference.
Of course, all three of these biopics have one thing in common when it comes to fashion. You’ll come for the story, but you’ll stay for the clothes.
In addition to the hundreds of vintage fashion magazines that stock the shelves of my office, I’ve started accumulating
a growing collection of fashion biographies.
The most recent addition, Pat in the City, is all about Patricia Field’s ascent to becoming the most well-known costume designer and stylist of all time, thanks to her groundbreaking work on Sex and the City. In the book, Field describes her early days working in New York City’s East Village, the evolution of her unique style, and her overwhelming influence on pop culture. It’s a must-read not only for fans of SATC, but fashion enthusiasts in general.
Diane von Furstenberg’s The Woman I Wanted to Be has been out since 2014, but I’ve only recently gotten around to reading it. A lifelong
advocate for women’s empowerment, Diane shares her journey from being a young girl with dreams of independence to becoming a fashion superstar known for her iconic wrap dress. It’s not just a story about fashion, however. It’s a powerful testament to the strength of a woman determined to carve her own creative path.
Anyone in fashion will tell you that Grace Coddington is by far the greatest editor in the history of magazine publishing. In her 416-page biography entitled Grace: A Memoir, Coddington discusses her entry into the fashion world as a teenage model in the 1960s, the car accident that forced her to change her career course, and her relationship with Anna Wintour at Vogue. The book is filled with fashion illustrations by Grace herself, as well as personal photographs from her decades of work in the industry.
The tie blouse with staying power, this 1970s wardrobe staple gets the back-to-school (or back-to-work) treatment with a boxy blazer and a statement brooch
vintagefashionmagazine.com
Gold is the “IT” neutral color this season...make it pop with a jet black topper
Colorblocking is always on-trend, and purple & pink pair perfectly for fall
Satin floral tie-blouse + cropped wool jacket = the working girl uniform of the 70s and 80s
Buying vintage is my business. It’s also my favorite thing in the world to do. Over the years, I’ve managed to find a few special spots in Manhattan that never fail when it comes to finding the most unique treasures. Here are my top five.
103 West 25th Street
This is hands down the most organized thrift store I've found in the city. The front racks are arranged by color. Rows of designer items are prominently displayed on racks opposite the check-out counter. Conveniently located near Herald Square, this particular Goodwill is one of several second-hand stores located in the area I’m now calling the “thrift district.”
114 West 26th Street
One block north from Goodwill is the sprawling metropolis of second-hand clothing known as Buffalo Exchange. It’s one of several locations in the city, and you’ll have to search through a lot of contemporary clothing to find vintage gems, but they’re there! I’ve never left this store empty handed. They also have a huge selection of shoes and handbags. The people that work here all have incredible style and are extremely nice. It's just a fun place to shop.
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117 West 25th Street
New York Vintage is like walking into a fashion museum. This is where stylists & editors go to pull rare vintage looks for
celebrities. I mostly go just to browse because it’s really expensive, but I have purchased a few items for my personal collection here.
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487 Columbus Avenue
Located on the Upper West Side near Central Park, Unique Boutique is another spot I never walk out of empty-handed.
While the prices aren’t as low as Goodwill or Buffalo Exchange, there is a better selection of vintage and designer pieces.
100 West 77th Street
Saving the best for last, by far my favorite place in the city for vintage shopping is Grand Bazaar. I’ve been going here
for so long that I still call it the “Greenflea” which is what it was originally named. Open only on Sundays, it’s the city’s oldest and largest curated weekly shopping market. I stumbled upon this place back in 1999 while visiting from Atlanta. I moved to NYC a year later and this is still the first place I take friends and family when they visit.
The artist’s 3-D fashion cards have become an obsession
Imet Willie years ago at the Greenflea (Grand Bazaar) on the Upper West Side of Manhattan. My friend Jeannette and I were strolling around the outdoor market on my birthday. When we stumbled upon Willie’s table, we were both blown away by his talent and the uniqueness of his designs. She bought me one of his cards as a birthday present right there on the spot. That began my obsession with Willie as well as my collection. Since then, I’ve ordered more pieces that now line the walls of my vintage studio and office.
The artist, left and a few of his pieces that adorn my studio wall above.
Willie studied at Parsons School of design and has worked at brands such as Liz Claiborne and Victoria’s Secret. His work has been featured in magazines, TV, and film. He hosts pop-ups at several markets around the city, but if you’re not lucky enough to see him in person (he’s truly one of the kindest people on the planet!), you can order his designs at the links below. He also does custom work, so if you’re thinking about sending out really unique Christmas cards this year, I suggest you order early!
Etsy Shop: etsy.com/shop/wmitchelldesigns
Website: williemitchelldesigns.com
Instagram: instagram.com/williemitchelldesigns
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Do you have a great vintage story? I'd love to share it in an upcoming issue. Send it to: editor@vintagefashionmagazine
Atlanta, Georgia
her vintage 1980s floor-length hooded coat her story
my husband Larry and I purchased this vintage coat for my mother-in-law Annette at a thrift shop several years ago. When she passed away in 2022, I inherited it. Now when I wear it, it makes me think of her and reminds me what an incredible person she was.
her favorite fashion decade the 90s
her
vintagefashionmagazine.com
Big 80s big sweaters are perfect for cozy fall outings. Here’s how to style each one of these cuties...
Jumpstart your weekend in shiny pleats & sexy boots
Fits Most $30
Blend in with the fall foliage in a colorblock crewneck
Coasion Aviator
Sunglasses $19
MODERN ALTERNATIVE
Sizes S - XL
Sizes XS - 3X
VINTAGE
Size L
$125
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If you’re a vintage lover like me, you understand the frustration of buying a collector’s piece online - in what you think is your size - only to have it end up being way too small. Here’s why.
ell, I’m a six. Which is the new fourteen! That dialogue from The Devil Wears Prada can also be used to describe vintage sizing. Only in reverse. A size 14 dress from the 1950s will fit like a size 6 today. Why the discrepancy?
In order to understand the stark contrast between vintage and contemporary sizing, we have to explore historical fashion trends, changes in body shape and size over the years, and the evolution of modern-day sizing systems.
by Sydney Stone
Clothing has always been influenced by culture. And culture is constantly in flux. For example, in the 1950s, the hourglass figure was popularized by Hollywood stars such as Marilyn Monroe and Grace Kelly. Dresses at that time were designed to accentuate a tiny waist and fuller bust and hips.
In the 1960s, fashion was all about the “youth quake,” with mini-skirts and shift dresses that were more suited for models with slender, boyish silhouttes like Twiggy. Historical fashion trends were also heavily influenced by the economy. During turburlent times like the Great Depression and World War II, the rationing of fabric was quite common. This led to more conservative use of materials and smaller, more utilitarian clothing designs. As a result, standards for sample sizes and sizing in general were impacted for decades to come. That’s why fashion models have always tended to be so small. It’s a lot less expensive for a designer to produce a size 2 sample than a size 12, since less fabric is required.
In the early to mid-20th century, people generally had smaller body frames due to healthier dietary habits and less sedentary lifestyles. Portion sizes were smaller and physical labor was much more common. This resulted in overall leaner body types. Anthropometric data collected over the years shows a significant growth in average body size. This is primarily due to the increase in consumption of fast food and overly processed options. According to research published in a 2018 Woman’s World article, women in the 1950s had an average waist size of 27.5 inches. In 2017, that average jumped to 34 inches. Today, most designers have finally embraced changing body types and offer more size-inclusive collections. However, finding vintage pieces in larger sizes can be quite challenging.
Another prominent challenge to understanding vintage sizing is the lack of standardization among manufacturers throughout history. Each design house has it own built-in sizing protocols.
The key to buying vintage online is knowing your exact measurements and proportions.
Even modern brands such as GAP and H&M have different sizing standards. This is because clothing manufacturers consider the design, cut, and fit of their garments as intellectual property that can give them a competitive advantage. That’s why many consumers will express preference for a certain brand simply because they like the way it fits.
Vanity sizing also adds to the discrepancies between vintage and contemporary clothing measurements. Brands will often label larger garments with smaller size tags to appeal to a buyer’s desire to feel thinner. This is yet another method of enticing brand loyalty that further exacerbates the confusion around vintage versus modern-day sizing.
Finally, natural shrinkage and fabric wear over time can cause a vintage piece to become even smaller after they’ve been washed and rinsed repeatedly. This is particularly true for natural fibers like cotton and wool, which are more prone to shrinking.
The best advice for knowing whether a vintage garment will fit is simply to try it on if you have the opportunity. However, if you’re buying online, the key is to know your exact measurements and understand your proportions. If you’re a classic hourglass, a 1950s or a 1980s belted shirtdress will fit much better than a 60s shift or a 90s slip dress. Understand your body type, and then you can unleash your inner vintage fashionista.
Turquoise, orange, purple... the most popular shades of the season shine bright like a diamond
1960s turquoise chiffon cape dress vintagefashionmagazine.com
1980s embellished and embroidered linen jacket
1950s pebbled leather clutch
vintagefashionmagazine.com
1950s MM patent bag with gold o-ring closure
vintage gloves clockwise from top left: 1950s crystal embellished cotton gloves, worn with Argenti Notte velvet dress; 1950s navy blue gloves, worn with vintage red boucle coat; 1960s black lace gloves, worn with vintage silver twinset; 1960s leather gloves, worn with vintage blue peacoat
Why buy a cheap costume when you can invest in a stunning vintage piece or modern alternative you’ll wear again and again? Pick a decade, add a few creative accessories, and suddenly you’re Marilyn, Audrey, Janis, Penny Lane, or even classic 80’s Madonna...
Fun Fact: Ben Cooper was dubbed “the Halston of Halloween” in the 1970s for his creative plastic masks and vinyl costumes based on film and television characters.
vintagefashionmagazine.com
LUI SUI
Badgley Mischka
The white dress Monroe wore in The Seven Year Itch was made by costume designer William Travilla. It was sold to an anonymous buyer at a 2011 auction for $4.6 million.
Givenchy's original version of the dress Audrey Heburn wears in the opening scene of Breakfast at Tiffany’s was considered too risqué by the studio because it showed too much leg. Costume designer Edith Head had to redesign the lower half prior to filming.
$19
In a 1968 Vogue profile, writer Richard Goldstein described Joplin as, “the most staggering leading woman in rock...she slinks like tar, scowls like war... clutching the knees of a final stanza, begging it not to leave.... she can sing the chic off any listener.”
Wilsons Leather Suede Coat Size L
Betsey Heimann, costume designer for Almost Famous, handmade all of the key pieces in the film, including the famous “Penny Lane” coat. She also designed the costumes for Pulp Fiction and Reservoir Dogs
Vintage 80s embellished jacket
Size L $125
In the 1985 movie Desperately Seeking Susan, costumer Santo Loquasto utilized several items from Madonna’s own closet. He also handmade the iconic jacket that the film centers around.
SOJOS sunglasses $14
Spider-web bat purse
$17
Tulle half slip skirt S-XXL
$15
My poor sister. I used to steal all of her stuff back in the 80s. I would rationalize it by saying that she was in college, had a job and could afford the good stuff. I was still in high school. Besides, I was just "borrowing" it. This Napier necklace in particular I had on permanent loan.
Napier advertisements had the catchiest taglines. Napier is happier Nappier is flirtier. And my personal favorite, Napier is jet-settier.
When I asked my sister recently what happened to the necklace, she said thought she still had it somewhere, but could never locate it. She was probably just trying to keep me from stealing it again.
I managed to find one on Etsy last year, and I wear it just as much now as I did in the 80s. If my sister ever finds hers, she might want to consider selling it. Some of these pieces are collectors' items now. And collectors, like me, will always pay a hefty price to buy back a piece of our youth.
Images, top right: a photo of me in the mid-80s, probably getting ready to go to the mall. middle: the Napier magazine ad that started it all; bottom: me wearing the necklace last year after I found it on Etsy.
THANKS FOR READING!
the winter/holiday issue is coming in November click here to get it the second it drops!