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CAITLIN’S FASHION JOURNAL


Table of Contents 1. Entry #1 a. Women’s Wear Daily – Cosmetics Birchbox Goes Global Through Acquisition 2. Entry #2 a. Frankenstein and Futurism Meet on London's Runways 3. Entry #3 a. Sew Chic: Trying Out Fall’s Needlepoint Trend 4. Entry #4 a. Fashion Observation: Animal Print in Moderation 5. Entry #5 a. Trends: Macy’s 6. Entry #6 a. Macy’s Trends: Extended 7. Entry #7 a. Fabric and Paint Trends 8. Entry #8 a. Trends from Three Other Countries: Brazil, China and Africa 9. Entry #9 a. H&M and Max Mara Window Displays 10. Entry #10 a. Nashville Trends 11. Entry #11 a. The Row 12. Entry #12 a. Three Industry Positions 13. Entry #13 a. Fashion Don’t’s 14. Entry #14 a. My Career Choices


Entry #1 Women’s Wear Daily Birchbox Goes Global Through Acquisition http://www.wwd.com.emils.lib.colum.edu/beauty-industry-news/financial/birchbox-goesglobal-through-acquisition-6285954 This article discusses the online beauty site, Birchbox, (birchbox.com) and how it is taking the next step and expanding throughout Europe. Birchbox is an online site that builds business through monthly subscription services for sample beauty products. This site introduces its members to new brands and samples in the hopes that the members will start buying regular sizes nad become loyal to the sample products. Birchbox has recently acquired JolieBox, which is a Paris based online company. With this acquisition, Birchbox will be reaching out to France, Spain, and even the U.K. I recently heard about this website. I have been on the waitlist for almost a month and I still have not been accepted to the site to be able to start paying ten dollars a month for the Birchbox. I think really highly of this site. I like that you can pay a small amount and try out various products and then you can buy those products through the Birchbox site. I think this is a very innovative idea in our society where a lot of purchases are made online and competition among brands is at an all time high. I think that other companies will try to adopt services like this. Some of their inventory includes Stila, Benefit, and W.E.I.


Birchbox Goes Global Through Acquisition By MOLLY PRIOR

Birchbox's Web site. Photo By Courtesy Photo

Birchbox, best known as an online beauty sample site, is expanding its services abroad. The company has acquired the Paris-based JolieBox, which like Birchbox has built its business though a monthly subscription service for beauty product samples and an ecommerce site. Birchbox’s cofounder Katia Beauchamp said the company began talks with JolieBox this


summer, and that the acquisition will give Birchbox swift entry into Europe, as JolieBox has business units in France, Spain and the U.K. “The service speaks to customers and brands globally,” said Beauchamp, referring to the reasons for the acquisition. The two sites also carry similar brands. Long-term plans call for Birchbox to fully integrate the acquired site, and immediate plans call for JolieBox to be described as a Birchbox company, said Beauchamp. She added that JolieBox recently launched e-commerce, and that it is an area that Birchbox is eagerly looking to build for the acquired business. Birchbox, which aims to introduce its members to new brands with samples and editorials, plans to borrow from JolieBox as well. Beauchamp said JolieBox includes a mini magazine in each box of products, and that Birchbox took a similar approach in September for fashion week. As to whether more acquisitions are likely, Beauchamp said Birchbox plans to expand its business in more countries. She said, “We expect to be a global company.”


Entry #2 Wall Street Journal Frankenstein and Futurism Meet on London's Runways http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10000872396390443995604578002301335585808.html This article talked about London’s Fashion Week and one of the most highly anticipated fashion show of all – the Burberry show. Among the front row audience members were the likes of Vogue editor Anna Wintour, U.S. Open winner Andy Murray, One Direction’s Harry Styles and many more. Christopher Bailey of Burberry stated that the spring collection was “sexy.” Unlike last season that consisted of prim and proper woman, this season was all about loosening up and finding a sense of sexy modernity. This season’s attitude consisted of sequins, reflective foils, bright colors, Frankinsteinesque plastic bolts, girlish bows and lace and much more. I like that Burberry took on a new attitude for the Spring and Summer collections. Since Burberry is known for it’s signature pattern consisting of a beige color, black, white and red all in a plaid and it also known for it’s, like stated above, prim and proper classic pieces that are so popular, I am looking forward to see this “sexy” attitude in the spring and fall. I think it will be really fun and flirty and popular with a younger crowd in addition to an older crowd who has been buying Burberry for decades.


Frankenstein and Futurism Meet on London's Runways By BETH SCHEPENS

London's designers created grown-up looks that reflect its status as a place where the cutting-edge meets the commercial. WSJ's Beth Schepens reports. Photo: AP Out of childhood references and the last days of disco, London designers created grownup looks that reflected the city's own burgeoning status as a place where the cutting-edge meets the commercial. Showing Monday, the most packed day of the London Fashion Week calendar, were some of the designers who have helped create this sea change. The most commercial of these was Christopher Bailey of Burberry. The British heritage label was still the biggest draw to London, with a front row that was packed not only with fashion's heavy hitters like Vogue editor Anna Wintour and photographer Mario Testino, but celebrities, musicians and sportsmen. Andy Murray, fresh from his U.S. Open win, was there, as were burlesque artist Dita Von Teese, "Slumdog Millionaire" star Dev Patel and One Direction's Harry Styles. They took in a spring 2013 collection of brightly colored dresses, separates and, of course, trenches that Mr. Bailey described as "sexy" backstage after the show.


Associated Press Burberry Prorsum's Spring/Summer collection was on show in London Monday. Jonathan Saunders's Sunday night show at Tate Modern was also about a sexy modernity. "After last season's buttoned-up, quite prim woman, it was about loosening up; a bit of a more sexy attitude," the Scottish designer said. With its sequins and reflective foils, his collection was a night out at Studio 54. Fellow Scot Christopher Kane used that same reflective foil on the invitation to his Monday afternoon show. The collection that followed juxtaposed futuristic forms and Frankenstein-esque plastic bolts that pinned garments together, as well as girlish bows and lace. Always forward in his fashions,Mr. Kane took everyday items that would be familiar to any young girl and made them into a wardrobe for an urban woman. "Even that modern stuff at the beginning had that bow motif hidden in the clear plastic, just giving it something that is very Christopher Kane," the designer said backstage.


Erdem Moralioglu kept the signature feminine aesthetic of his eponymous brand, which has made fans of women like the U.K. prime minister's wife, Samantha Cameron, who attended his show Monday. But he gave it an otherworldly feel with layers of python, organza and lace, in a collection inspired by the 1950s science fiction of American author Zenna Henderson. "I like the idea of this kind of etherealness—that they kind of come and take over, divide and conquer," the designer said. "But my spaceship malfunctioned partway through the show," he added, referring to a few minutes when the lights and music went off and models walked in eerie silence.


Entry #3 Sew Chic – Trying out Fall’s Needlepoint Trend Frankenstein and Futurism Meet on London's Runways This article takes a look inside one of fall’s latest trend. In fact, this trend isn’t really a new trend at all. You can find this trend at your grandmother’s house or even the remnants that were found in King Tut-s cave. This style on the runway has a bit of a twist though. From pearl-studded pieces on Balmain pieces to beautiful embroidery on the Dolce & Gabana booties, bustier’s and an amazing bag available on luisaviaroma.com for $2,149 this style has all of the fashion enthusiasts watching this art transformation. I really love this fall trend. I really like how these iconic fashion innovators are taking something so underrated such as a needlepoint pillow that seems very out of date and not very fashion forward. They have made needlepoint into something that is very marketable and have turned it into exquisite artwork and beautiful garments that can sell for thousands of dollars. Not only is it creative to make beautiful pieces from needlepoint, but making shoes out of needlepoint is very fashion forward as well. I have to say though, I personally don’t think I would buy the needlepoint shoes if I had the means to afford them, but I would definitely invest in one of the Dolce & Gabana purses and one of the dresses.


Sew Chic: Trying Out Fall's Needlepoint Trend by Chioma Nnadi With rich tapestries as the centerpiece of pearl-studded looks at Balmain, and embroidery covering everything from bootie to bustier at Dolce & Gabbana, all roads will lead back to your grandmother’s sewing basket this fall. Of course needlepoint is anything but new (ancient cross-stitched remnants were said to have been found in King Tut’s cave), though current enthusiasts argue that the craft is shedding its fusty rocking-chair associations. “It’s not just pillows anymore, it’s art,” says needlepoint expert Annie Goodman, who has agreed to give me a crash course at her store on the Upper East Side. Annie & Co. has been an art and crafts institution for the past ten years, and when I arrive, clusters of men and women are fastidiously stitching away in Zen-like silence. “Let’s take a look at the beginner canvases,” says Goodman, ushering me away from the intricate runway-worthy floral tableaus I’m drooling over and toward a pile of rudimentary patterns instead. We find a tiger’s head in the mix of chintzy motifs that stops my heart from unraveling entirely. It’s designed to fit a jewelry box lid but will make for a great appliqué badge on vintage denim. Threading left to right on my practice board, Goodman suggests that I “always think Mexico to Maine on the map” (this basic stitch is known as the continental). I ask her if there has been an influx of style-savvy new customers following the fall shows. She shrugs, and says that a few years ago someone came in after Gucci made a needlepoint purse, but there have been no other recent fashion stampedes to mention. At that moment, a young woman carrying a handpainted canvas resembling a gorgeous geometric Jonathan Saunders print walks in. “I have been doing this since I was six years old,” says Rachel Egan, a 24-year-old artist. I feel a sudden pinch of needlepoint envy. So how long would a piece like that take? “It


depends; it’s not so much how fast a stitcher you are, it’s about how much time you put into it,” she says. “Most people who try it find it to be very meditative. You just kind of get lost in your thoughts.” In the weeks that follow, I try as hard as I can to get lost in needlepoint. Pulling out my embroidery accouterment on the plane gets some disapproving stares from the flight attendant (even in a bundle of yarn, sharp objects are clearly a no-no). And when I finally sneak away for a quiet moment at a family reunion in Switzerland, my uncle walks in on me mid-stitch. “You need to get out more,” is his own comment on my handiwork. With my canvas only half-finished, my ego in tatters and my fashion week deadline looming large I decide to throw in the towel. In the end, my skill set is better suited to a different craft: not sewing those looks, but shopping them.


Entry #4 Fashion Observation: Animal Print in Moderation This fall in women’s fashion I am seeing a lot of animal print in accessories. In multiple stores I have seen mostly shoes and bags that have animal prints on them, more common than not cheetah print. I think that this is different from past seasons, specifically last Fall 2011 season, because I think that animal print was more profound in the actual clothing itself. I was seeing a lot more cheetah print dresses and jackets, but now I think that maybe people are a little more reluctant to wear cheetah print, perhaps they would not pay a lot of money for cheetah print attire, or maybe they already own one piece that is totally cheetah print so now people are looking to make smaller purchases such as shoes, bags, and I’ve also seen a couple of shirts with either a cheetah collar or cheetah cuffs. The exception I am seeing here is on fur. I think the fur coats in cheetah print are very cute and trendy.


Entry #5 Trends: Macy’s 1. Fur - Material a. In the contemporary section, many fur vests were seen here. Some of the vests were all fur and others were lined on the inside with fur. These were often paired with knits and sweaters and even dresses. There was quite the array of colors as well. Some were white, brown, black, and some were a combination of the three, and there was even a like pink one from BCBG. In the more upscale section, fur was seen as coats and also as an accessory to a coat, like a collar or cuffs, in example. The all fur coats were all about hip length and a little longer – none that were too long or fur length. Some that really stood out to me were the cheetah print ones. I also liked the coats that were of an outerwear material with a large fur neckline / collar. A third place fur was seen was as an accessory. There were mittens and hats lined with fur. There were also fur earmuffs and fur scarfs. In additionally section I saw booties lined with fur (in the shoe section). 2. Bright Red - Color a. This color was EVERYWHERE. I think this is because the holidays are coming up and it is very festive. This was all over the women’s department. Vince Camuto did a pair of skinny jeans in this color, that they call “Scarlet Wash.” On display was also an Eileen Fischer turtlekneck sweater in this color, an Annie Klein peplum winter coat and a sweater dress, there were also short sleeve dresses, vests, and much more all on display. In the accessories section there were also bright red cashmere lined clothes that looked very nice, hats, and scarfs as well. In the men’s sections I saw a bright red tie with navy stripes made by Calvin Klein. I also saw in outerwear a men’s North Face coat in this bright red color and a vest in the same style. 3. Sequins - Detail a. Though becoming less popular (I think), sequins are still in demand for this season. Perhaps because New Years Eve is coming up! In the women’s section and the contemporary section sequins were abundant. French Connection had a great gold sequin long sleeve dress that I actually like a lot. In St. John’s section there was a black long sleeve dress with sequin sleeves that looked more elegant and conservative yet still fun. In the contemporary section there were cute cropped sequin dresses that looked like fun party dresses and sheer tank tops embellished with sequins which I think are very popular. In the shoe section sequins were used on pumps, including MICHAEL Michael Kors black pumps. There were also sequin flats. In the handbags section sequins were also used in all different forms incuding a Juicy Couture tote, a BCBG clutch, and a Style & Co. satchel.


4.

Texture – Velvet a. This next overlapping trend I saw was items with a velvet texture. I saw this in the dresses section of Macy’s. The dresses displayed are the Jessica Simpson Brand. Velvet shirts were also seen in the contemporary section. Additionally, there were some necklaces and bracelets I found in the jewelry section of the store that had velvet strands beaded into the metal that was interesting. One last place I saw this trend was in the women’s shoe section. There were pumps with a velvet texture in a black color.

5.

Silhouette – Pleats a. Pleated silhouettes are becoming very popular. I saw this trend in the dresses section. I like where the pleats fall on the dress. The pleats give the dress a feminine touch but the waistline is not so form fitting. Additionally I saw pleats in the contemporary section. I saw long floor length pleated skirts in dark colors and a high waistline that I really like. Additionally I saw this pleated silhouette in the women’s section. I saw a more formal Rachel Roy high waisted pleated skirt in a metallic silver color. This was interesting because the pleats that I have seen are often times loose and flowy but this skirt was more of a going out, feminine skirt.


Entry #6 Macy’s Trends: Extended When I first log onto the website the first thing that pops up at me is embellished sweaters. This greatly coincides with the sequins trend I noticed because one thing in the contemporary section I saw was a lot of embellished sheers. I did not specifically see sweaters, but embellished pieces are very popular right now. I see this a lot when I work at J. Crew also. The only thing about them is you have to take great care of them because if one jewel or bead falls off, it can ruin the whole piece. Another thing right on the home page is a display for the Top 10 Holiday Campaigns in 2012. The ad show is for the UK department store Debenham and a bright red beautiful coat is the center of attention in the ad. This coincides with the Macy’s trends because people like to wear bright red for the holidays because it looks nice, it stands out and is festive.


Entry #7 Fabric and Paint Trends The colors that I chose are for the Spring 2013 season. This is the season that all fashion retailers are preparing for right now stores are already getting in resort wear (in J. Crew we already have men’s bathing suits). Below is a list of the popular colors for the spring season and the ones that I like the best are Monaco Blue, Emerald and Poppy Red. I am exciting to see what kinds of mix and matches will be inretail stores in the upcoming months and how these pops of colors will be incorporated into every day attire and what kind of patterns will be created out of these colors.


Additionally below are three fabric trends for Spring 2012. The Chrysanthemum fabric

This look a like fabric I found is 100 percent cotton and is made in the USA.

This is a tweed fabric made in Indonesia. The fiber content is 100 percent wool.


These patterns are going to be popular for the spring. The top left one is an Hermes-esque fabric. That fabric is silk. It is made in France.


Entry #8 Trends from Three Other Countries: Brazil, China and Africa The first country that I examined is Brazil. In an analysis, what was found in Rio were unexpected materials, heavy fabric-blocking and Asian inspiration drive. What I decided to focus on was the Asian inspiration that is continuing to influence South American Designers. From this inspiration some trends are origami-inspired tailoring and geometric prints bringing structure to rather simplified shapes. More specifically, Asian florals such as such as orchids, cherry blossoms, and cranes are making impressions on various fabrics. When looking at the actual constructions of this trend, origami folds are being used for skirts and sharp angles are being used for tops. Other details include angular pockets, hip details, and oversized shoulders.

Because South America was influenced by Asia culture, the next country that I chose to examine is China. Differently, Shaingha’s spring collection place an emphasis on a neutral color palette combined with secondary jewel tones to focus on loose and flowy silhouettes. The fabrics this season are sheers and overlaid constructions. This trend places an emphasis of the return of soft femininity.

The third country I chose to examine is Africa because I know nothing about fashion trends in Africa and I thought it would be really interesting. I looked at trends from Cape Town Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. This fashion production was inspired by the 20s, 50s and 60s. Also, other traditional eastern garments were in the mix such as the kimono


– for a East-meets-West look. The trend I further examined was the Roaring Twenties. The trend here is flapper inspired dresses. These dresses have column drop-waists and full length evening gowns. There is a great emphasis on embellishments such as sequins, beading, embroidery and fringing. Additionally sashes and headbands were trending with these dresses.

Trends for the next Two Seasons (Spring / Summer): Based on the information I have researched on WGSN I have made some predictions for trends in the United States for the next two seasons� Spring: I think that this spring we will be seeing a lot of neutral color patterns mixed with bright pops of color. I think we could start to get the Asian influence because it seems like multiple other countries are picking up on this trend. Additionally we could be seeing, not necessarily flapper dresses, but light weight dresses with fringe and embellishments. We will definitely be seeing sheer materials with embellishments because we have already been seeing this in our country for a while – Topshop is a great example. J. Crew also does this as well. Summer: For the summer, I think that embellishments and fringes on dresses and shirts will be prominent. I also think long flowy skirts as seen is Brazil will be popular in pastel and bright colors. I think we are already seeing this long skirt trend coming in in a pleated style and I think that will be popular in the summer. I think these long skirts will be combined with patterned flowy shirts. I think that flowy outfits with layered materials will also be popular this summer.


Entry #9: H&M and Max Mara Window Displays H&M The first window display that I captured photos of was H & M. I chose this company because I know that they are marketing to the masses but at the same time they are rather innovative and stylish. So, I wanted to see how they used their windows to market to their typical customer. The first thing they want you to notice is the hot pink sign that reads Holiday Deals From $5. What I like about this display is when you are walking by you are outside, and their display is trying to make you feel like you are still outside with those mannequins. Because it is all white and festive it reminds me of snow. I also like that one window is specialized for the women and the other one is specialized for the men. The holiday cheer makes me want to go shopping!


Max Mara On the other hand, because I looked at an affordable shop window, I also wanted to take a look at a higher end / upscalee window. What I like the most about these windows is that everything is black except for one white sweater with a black accessory. Then in the background is a pop of color (orange on one window, green on the other). Those this description may seem simple and boring, because the pieces are so beautiful and pay so much attention to detail I actually think I spent more time looking at this window. I stopped because I did in fact notice that everything was black, and so I wanted to take the time to look at the differences in the black pieces and admire the clothing. I think this window was more like a work of art.


Entry #10 Nashville Trends A new show that I just started watching is called Nashville. It is a new show starring Hayden Panettiere as Juliette Barnes who is a stylish trendsetter. On the show she is a rising country star who is very popular with a youthful audience. A lot of little girls look up to her and are influenced by her appearance. On the show (see pictures below) she wears a lot of sequins and sparkles. She wears a lot of form fitting pieces that are a little on the short side. She also wears cowboy boots and flannels with mini shorts. I think Haydens fashion style from this show could have an influence on current fashion trends. Hayden is a country star but she is also a pop princess. So I think from this show, what could become popular is mixing glam with cowboy boots and other things that give an outfit a western touch. Like, in example, a long sleeved button up jean shirt or plaid button up shirts with a girly touch like chunky jewelry and big earrings. One example of this from the show is when she wears a mini sequin dress and pairs it with cowboy boots. It reminds me a little bit of Taylor Swifts style – but less conservative and more edgy.


Entry #11 The Row The brand that I show is called The Row. The fashion designers who own the label are Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen. I looked at their Ready-to-Wear Fall / Winter 2011 Collection. I decided that The Row is my favorite because I grew up loving Mary Kate and Ashley and it is truly incredible how they transformed from blockbuster faces to high fashion designers with remarkable collections and top of the line materials. I chose this collection because I like winter clothes and outerwear. I chose this design because it is bold and innovative for 2011. I think that the whole outfit is very feminine and bold but I like how the pants are loose, sheer and neutral. I love the color blue dyed fur and I love how the fur bunches into pieces on the jacket. The shoes are a great finish. A retailer that would include this design would be a high-end boutique or an upscale department store like Saks or Barneys.


Entry #12 Three Industry Positions Fashion Designer: A fashion designer is responsible for a wide arrange of tasks and work alongside other departments such as buying and production teams. . Stating the obvious, the fashion designer is responsible for designing the items or pieces for the collection. They must work very far in advance (a couple of seasons at least) and be able to make predictions about fashion trends for more than a year in advance.

Buyer: A buyer is somebody who works for a company and is responsible for filling the store with popular and trending items for that given season. They also might be in charge of making contracts and agreements with other companies in order to get the pieces they need for the store.

Product Development Manager: A product development manager is somebody that is trained in and specializes in planning. They need to know about market research, they also need to be able to have skills in sales forecasting, and they have to be good at promotional planning. They need to be able to be creative and innovative, while at the same time they need to be useful from a marketing and financial standpoint.


Entry #13 Fashion Don’ts Meat Suits – Pretty much ANYTHING that Lady Gaga wears is a fashion don’t – don’t wear anything just to get attention. That is not innovative or fashion forward, it is just forced. One of the principle rules of fashion is that consumers establish fashions by accepting or rejecting the styles offered, and if you want to be a great fashion leader or make a change in fashion, it is impossible to do so wearing a meat suit. In the case of the downward flow theory, this fashion or anything peculiar that Lady Gaga wears to make a statement will never gradually win acceptance at progressively lower levels – even if it is an expensive creation.

Jump Suits – They have never caught on, the Peplum trend will not help! This is a case where the rule comes in that fashions are not based on price. Just because something is expensive does not mean that it will be successful. I would consider this idea to be a recurring fashion. I would almost consider this to be an adaption from the overall that was once popular in the nineties. That would be considered a pant suit – and a popular one – and this is the only time I have seen some form of pant suit try to make a name for itself since. . I think that some celebrities are wearing jump suits right now but I think that is because they are trying to make innovative statements in hopes that fashion followers will copy – but no one should copy!


Rediculous Shoes Don’t ever buy these shoes. I, again, think that the famous do have an influence in this shoe that has suddenly become popular and I think that fashion followers have caught on a little bit – but not much. I think that this shoe had a short life in the consumer buying cycle. Perhaps it was popular during the introduction stage to a limited amount of people, however, I think that it went from introduction to fall / obsolescence at a rapid rate.

Don’t over do prints Prints are extremely popular right now. Not just in our country, but all over the world. And I do not have a problem with that. I LOVE prints. But overdoing them is a fashion don’t. The role of the designer is to create artistic excellence. These designs must be profitable. I think for a fashion show, the designer needs the pattern to pop in order to get attention, but people should be copying this trend. Designers have to market their own artistic identity to the segment of the population that shares their vision, which may be


happening the below photo in an artistic sense, but in no way should a designer convey to its followers that this can be worn off the runway.


Entry #14 My Career Choices Junior Buyer I think that this would be a good position for me because I do not want to design clothes. I like to do research on trends and I like to experiment with my own style. I would really enjoy traveling around and going to different trade shows and fashion shows and be able to be a part of the future of fashion trends. I think this would be right up my alley. Also in this position junior buyers sometimes have to work in areas that involve contract negotiating and agreements. With my internship experience in office settings, I think that I would be prepared to work with companies and clients to form agreements and relationships.

Stylist I think I would be interested in working for a fashion magazine and having a stylist position. I would love to be able to be the person that helps pick out clothes, shoes and accessories for photo shoots for the magazine and other aspects of the magazine. Some other examples I can think of are when magazines show a celebrities outfit and then the cheaper option and also when magazines do pages on current trends. I would like to pick out items for those types of things. I like to organize and I like to put things together.

Personal Shopper I think for an entry level job a personal shopper would be a great growing experience for me. As an employee with J. Crew I do get to work with personal shoppers and I am able to observe some of the things that they do. They build long lasting relations with


customers and they get to put together tons of outfits for their client. That sounds very fun but from what I see it is also a lot of work at the same time because you have quotas to meet.


FASHION JOURNAL