Good Catch: A Guide to Sustainable Fish and Seafood with Recipes from the World's Oceans

GOOD CATCH C

A GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE FISH AND SEAFOOD WITH RECIPES FROM THE WORLD’S OCEANS

CATCH

Valentine Thomas

Photography by Andrew Thomas Lee

South Africa 79

Jerk Cobia with Baked Sweet Potatoes

Fish Sausage with Shrimp Chunks

Mackerel Toast with Charred Cherry Tomatoes and Pickled Shallots

Mini Kingfish Wellingtons with MustardTarragon Stuffing and Beurre Blanc

Bahamas 91

Lobster Tartare with Fried Capers and Sun-Dried Tomato Vinaigrette

Wahoo Tataki with Herb Sauce and Cucumber Messy Sushi Board Whole Fried Lionfish with IPA Mayo

Cape Verde 101

Trout Mi-Cuit Cobia Potpie Fish Puttanesca Sashimi with Ginger and Soy

California 111

Salt-Crusted Whole Fish Snapper Panzanella with Grapefruit Salt Block Seared Fish Tater Tots with Smoked Mackerel Crème Fraîche and Caviar

Florida 121

Baby Scallop Ceviche with Kohlrabi and Pineapple Grouper Heads with Ponzu Butter Fish Head Nachos Amberjack Rack of Ribs Fish Milt Bites

Swordfish Eggs Benedict with Dill Hollandaise Fish Trim Nuggets with Habanero-Apricot BBQ Sauce

France 139

Seafood Salad with Sumac and Sweet Peas

Mussels, Two Ways

Mamie’s Fish Soup with Rouille Toasts Grilled Clams with Butter, Garlic, and Parsley Mussels Éclade with Brown Butter and Rosemary Dipping Sauce

Fish Charcuterie Board

Smoked Salmon and Turkish Egg Breakfast Grilled Whole Stuffed Fish with Sun-Dried Tomatoes, Feta, and Herb Butter

Marshall Islands 161

Canned Anchovy Pasta with Capers, Red Pepper Flakes, and Lemon

Sardine Potato Salad with Capers and Celery

Canned Sardines Poke Bowl Tuna Nigiri with Rice Cakes and Harissa

Mexico 171

Crispy Halibut with Yogurt Achiote, Fingerling Potatoes, and Chorizo

Fish Skin Chicharrónes with Black Bean Dip

Fish Bone Marrow

Fish Tacos, Three Ways

Snapper Tartare with Cured Quail Egg and Chimichurri Mayo

Aguachile with Serrano Pepper, Kiwi, and Fried Quinoa

Louisiana 189

Buttermilk Fried Fish and Pancakes with Jalapeño Honey

Seafood Boil in a Bag

Tuna Tomahawk with Salsa Verde

Cajun Fried Catfish on Jalapeño Corn Bread

Grilled Shrimp with Bagna Cauda

Fish Wings with Herb Pesto Dip Scale Gummy Bears

New York 207

Oysters, Three Ways

The Ultimate Fish Burgers

Corn Chowder

Steamed Giant Clams with Lobster Bisque and Aged Cheddar

Caviar Cod with Smoked Oyster Sauce

Fish Fingers with Spicy Dill Yogurt

New Caledonia 221

Grilled Lobster

Big Fish Roast with Fumet Sauce and Kohlrabi

Swordfish Stew (Bougna)

Lobster Bisque

Sweden 231

Scandinavian Smorgasbord Halibut Escabeche

Scandinavian Fish Soup

Taiwan 243

Whitebait Chips with Yuzu-Tarragon Mayo Asian Fish Soup Crab Dumplings in Dashi

Grilled Oysters with Blue Cheese and Hot Sauce Braised Pompano Bao with Red Chili BBQ Sauce

Quebec 255

Grouper Belly Bacon with Maple and Whiskey Arctic Char Confit with Parsnip Mash and Fennel Slaw

Baked Whole Snapper with Spicy Tarragon Chimichurri

Seaweed Tapenade with Sardines and Salicornia

Maple-Steamed Whole Trout on a Wet Log Whelk Carpaccio with Spicy Mayo and Dill Trout Crudo with Beet, Sumac, and Pickled Pearl Onions

Sustainable Seafood 101 275

Honolulu, Hawaii

A Slice of the Story

I am floating in the ocean, miles away from shore. All I can see is blue in every direc tion, and at this moment, I am completely at peace with myself and with nature. I have just speared a snapper while free diving for my dinner, and my mind’s only task is musing over how I will prepare my fish once I get back to the shore. Maybe I’ll butcher it against the backdrop of the setting sun, slicing the opalescent flesh as thinly as I can before drizzling it with olive oil, flaky sea salt, and fresh herbs and shoveling the raw fish into my mouth. Or maybe I’ll cut away two fillets and roast them over a driftwood-fueled fire on the beach, picking the meat off the bones with my fingers. But my daydream is short-lived as I suddenly realize that I am not alone. A ten-foot tiger shark is gliding toward me. I am undeniably on the shark’s turf, and it is looking at me in what seems to be the same appraising way that I had looked at the snapper I speared mere moments ago.

Spearfishing is considered one of the most dangerous sports for a good reason. Humans are at a glaring disadvantage in the water, and one’s inferiority is never more apparent than when you are staring down a shark more than twice your size. As the shark and I lock eyes, I understand that weakness isn’t an option. I don’t have a choice but to act strong, to be strong, because any sign of weakness will make me prey.

I wasn’t always so fearless. Growing up in Montreal, Canada, I was a twig-shaped kid scared

of her own shadow. At the age of fourteen, I passed out after getting caught in an undertow while swimming in the ocean, losing consciousness just as a lifeguard grabbed me out of the water.

Not a proud moment. For years, I stayed far from the ocean and had no desire to reconnect with it.

In fact, I stayed far away from anything that made me nervous or anxious—and that meant a lot of things. My anxiety was worsened by being bullied by other kids. By nineteen, I started having severe panic attacks. Even small things like going to school or joining friends for a drink became challenging for me. But I didn’t want to take medication to tamp down my fears. So my only option was to face them. I worked hard to make the uncomfortable comfortable again, bit by bit. And eventually, I was able to step back into my life—or at least what I thought was my life.

I had always thought that I wanted the high-powered career with the big house and the fancy car. I wanted to be more important than those bullies. My mother was a corporate lawyer, so I figured I’d go to law school. I studied hard and took the stable, predictable path that my parents had planned for me. But when I finally got a job at a criminal legal aid firm, something just wasn’t clicking. I couldn’t push myself to take the plunge into the mainstream work world, the one I’d prepared for my entire life. And no, it’s not because I’m a millennial. It was because I couldn’t picture myself doing the exact same thing for the next forty years. So I did what a lot of scared young people do—I ran away.

I grabbed my passport and moved to London, where I began to practice law, but, not surpris ingly, I was still unhappy. Everyone around me seemed content, but I’d never felt more alone, even when I was out partying every night, trying to drink myself into delusional happiness. I eventually got a job in finance (why I thought that would be the solution, I’ll never know), but every chance I got, I was traveling the world once again, in search of something better, something more “me.”

That’s when I was first introduced to a sport called spearfishing. I was on my way to Ibiza with friends, and the man sitting next to me was holding a pair of free-diving fins. I asked him what they were, and he explained that they helped him dive hundreds of feet below the surface of the ocean in search of fish to hunt, with no oxygen. The flight was barely long enough for me to ask him all the questions I had, and when he invited me to meet up with him for a spearfishing trip off the coast of Ascension Island in the middle of the Atlantic, I realized I’d rather be doing that than partying on the island.

I remember our first day, sitting at the back of the boat with hundreds of feet of water below me. We were miles away from shore because we were “blue water hunting,” or spearfishing in deep water for migratory fish such as tuna, wahoo, marlin, mackerel, and mahi mahi. My heart was racing—would this end with me having another panic attack? Maybe I hadn’t really left behind that fourteen-year-old girl who passed out in the undertow. But then I remembered all the work I had done to make the uncomfortable comfortable, and that included the ocean and this moment. I knew that if I didn’t jump in the water, then I would continue to feel stuck and frustrated. So, despite the fear threatening to paralyze me, I gathered all my courage and I jumped. Even though

the sea was dark and agitated at the surface, it was calm as I slipped beneath. I was mesmerized by the serenity—and the hundreds of little fish surrounding me. That day, I made my first catch.

Spearfishing and I would have a lot to accomplish before our relationship became an uncon ditional love story—I was still petrified of deep water—but that night, on the beach, cooking myself a dinner I had caught, changed my life forever. It is that moment that has pushed me to continue facing my fears and advocating for what I know to be right, including how we treat our oceans.

Since then, I’ve spent a lot of energy making amends with the water; my biggest fear has become not only my biggest passion but my career. By the time I was twenty-eight years old, I had womaned up, left the corporate track, sold most of the things I owned, and become a profes sional spearfisher-woman. There I was, catching my own food, eating the best meals I’d ever had, and pushing my body to limits I hadn’t known existed. I was also contributing to my community, giving away a lot of the fish that I caught, while keeping my ecological footprint to a minimum. It also opened my eyes to the damage we’ve done to our oceans and made me realize that, as humans, we aren’t on top of the ecosystem but right there in the middle.

As I am facing my worst fear and seeing my life flash before my eyes, all I care about is not ending up as dinner myself.

First, I steady my nerves. I don’t have the luxury of an oxygen tank when I dive. Instead, my free diving requires that I hold my breath for up to six minutes, and when you’re 170 feet below the surface, you can’t allow oxygen stealers such as panic to shave away a single second. Somehow, I stay focused and point my spear at the shark, waiting as the seconds grow long. What does it intend to do?

Luckily, it chooses not to select me for dinner that day. It passes me by and continues its journey along the ocean floor. Flooded with relief and high on adrenaline, I glide to the surface. I float motionless at the top, filling my lungs with a slow, peaceful breath. I calm my body and my mind. What I learned in the ocean that day was more valuable to me than my years in law school. I decide to take one last dive. I fill my lungs and sink into the darkness of the depths. I am trusting my body to take me eighty feet below the surface in one single breath. I can hear my heartbeat rushing in my ears.

I become one with the ocean floor and hide in the shadows to ambush a fish or spur its innate curiosity. In this world, curiosity kills. Several fish drift by, near enough to catch. But they are either not large enough to be speared (as dictated by local sustainability regulations), out of season, or not good to eat, so I finish this dive empty-handed.

Most of my dives end that way. Spearfishing allows you to be selective, as there are is no bycatch or accidentally ending up with the wrong fish. What I do isn’t even technically fishing; it is ocean

hunting. It requires proximity, close assessment of my prey, and the precision to release the spear at exactly the right moment to guarantee that I come to the surface with my next meal in hand.

It might not sound badass, but I have a soft spot that I’ve discovered I share with most other hunt ers I’ve met: my heart sinks a bit every time I pull the trigger. I don’t take my hunting lightly—it’s not just sport for me. No, it’s about figuring out how I can be a better participant in the ecosystem. Since being introduced to spearfishing, I have wanted to reexamine the harmful practices that I once inadvertently participated in, such as overfishing, unsustainable fish farming, and the depen dence on commercial fisheries that sometimes lack transparency. I’ve seen once-abundant fishing locales completely empty of fish and with plastic garbage everywhere. And if there is one thing I want to protect, it’s the ocean, because that’s what has both healed me and prompted me to write this book.

My relationship with flavors and dishes from around the world has evolved a lot since I began fishing. It has changed not only my perspective on life but also my values. Yes, spearfishing means I get to enjoy some of the best seafood in the freshest possible moment in some of the most beau tiful surroundings. I’ve prepared sashimi on the back of a boat overlooking the Cape Verde coast; made big, juicy grouper burgers the size of my head off the coast of the Bahamas; and polished off entire platters of tuna carpaccio in the South Pacific. These meals were absolutely delicious, but they were also very meaningful. My connection with what I eat isn’t just about fueling my body or experiencing the joy of a good meal, but about who I want to be, for myself and for the planet. We really, truly are what we eat. That’s what Good Catch is about: inviting you to take a closer look at how the food you source and prepare affects much more than the small orbit of your own life, while also opening your eyes to the vast pleasure that exists when you seek out and prepare meals with the ultimate mindfulness and intention. No spear—nor even beach—is required, but a sense of fun and adventure is strongly suggested.

As I climb into the boat, exhausted but satisfied from a day well spent, my thoughts are now focused on one thing: dinner! I’ve decided to enjoy my fresh fish slowly grilled over a fire on the beach. With the help of a few friends, we’ll pick the juicy, flaky meat off the bones with our fingers and dip it into a bit of melted butter and lemon juice. It’s a meal I’m proud of, and one worthy of sharing with the world.

OPPOSITE: St. Petersburg, Florida (top row, left); Honolulu, Hawaii (top row, right); North Shore, Oahu, Hawaii (middle row, left); Montreal, Quebec, Canada (middle row, right); Exuma, Bahamas (bottom row, left); Honolulu, Hawaii (bottom row, right).

Jupiter, Florida

Why a Sustainable Adventure Cookbook?

I never thought about where my food came from before I started the rather strange sport that is spearfishing. I had always picked the fish I wanted to cook according to what I assumed was freshest (or cheapest), without even considering what happened between when it was a living organism and the moment it ended up laid out on a piece of Styrofoam, wrapped in plastic, and placed on a supermarket shelf. Which, like most people, is where I mainly bought my fish. But when I started spearfishing, I discovered that fish as a food source can have a darker under belly—it is either farmed fish fed antibiotic-laced food and raised using practices that pollute the entire ocean, or it is caught by one of hundreds of thousands of gigantic nets trawling the ocean, depleting entire fish populations, eroding the food web, and endangering vulnerable species like sea turtles and corals.

But while the discussion we need to have about better sourcing practices and conservation might sound daunting and, frankly, like a buzzkill, it’s no different, really, from how lots of us have been talking about fruits and vegetables. It’s common practice now, for many people, to think about whether their produce has been grown by a commercial farm in nutrient-depleted soil and sprayed with pesticides, or by a local farmer who stewards her land respectfully and responsibly. The lessons I’ve learned since I began spearfishing are the same: it’s about searching for a better answer and, in exchange, getting a much better product. Just as there’s nothing more pleasing than a fresh-off-the-vine tomato that smells and tastes of the sun, it’s equally pleasurable to slurp the brine of just-steamed mussels that still taste like the sea or to tuck into the flaky white flesh of a whole, sustainably caught mahi mahi roasted simply with butter, white wine, and lime. Add a salad and an ice-cold beer, and you’ll start to see why I live my life the way I do. It’s as though you’re able to feel the undulating waves these creatures came from, the salt water in your hair, the sun kissing your skin—but at the very least, you’ll have a damn good meal.

You might not be able to know where 100 percent of your fish and seafood comes from, because that is the unfortunate nature of our current food system, but you can get closer, and this book will show you how. I’ll teach you the (quite simple) skills necessary to build a responsible seafood reper toire, including utilizing little-used parts such as heads, skin, and ribs (you haven’t lived until you’ve had fish head nachos (page 127)!), and, of course, to buy the best-quality seafood. I’ll break down how to make the most eco-friendly choices, how to spot fresh fish, and how to substitute different types of fish in case you can’t find exactly what you’re looking for. Not to worry if you don’t live in reasonable proximity to a quality fishmonger; there are now great mail-order companies that deliver sustainably raised and caught seafood directly. Frozen fish, including what you can buy at the grocery store, is not a deal breaker. In fact, even the freshest sushi you’ve eaten has most likely been frozen first, owing to national restaurant regulations. I frequently prepare sashimi and cevi che from frozen salmon or tuna—something I’ll show you how to do easily in your own kitchen with the same fresh pop of flavor as if you’d caught it that day.

No matter whether I’m cooking miles from the shore after a day of diving or for friends com ing over to my house, I reach for the same things: simple techniques that preserve the integrity of the fish. Whether it’s snapper simmered in coconut milk, yellowtail served poke-style with pickled mango, prawns thrown on the grill with tomatoes and feta, or a messy “sushi board” layered with rice, tuna, sliced jalapeño, and yuzu sauce, there’s not much energy that needs to go into my meal—other than buying a great piece of fish, figuring out the best way to prepare it, and tossing together a salad and a batch of lazy cocktails (the only kind there should be, in my opinion). The recipes in this book reflect that ease—each one features preparations that are appropriate for a wide range of fish and seafood, and the salads, sides, and sauces can be mixed and matched so that you can bring the ocean to your table even if you’re not able to bring your table to the ocean.

To help create a sense of place, the recipes are presented in the context of some of my favorite fishing destinations, from the domestic waters of Louisiana, Florida, and California to the more far-flung coasts of South Africa, the Bahamas, France, and Taiwan. As much as these locations differ, so do the oceans around them. Each chapter will present a story from my experiences diving in these underwater worlds, bringing you closer to the source of the food and setting the scene for the recipes. What you’ll realize is that no matter where you are or how limited your shopping options are, a delicious meal rarely requires more than a small handful of ingredients and a little resourcefulness.

My hope is that you’ll see Good Catch for what it’s meant to be: an adventure. These recipes are, aside from getting on a boat with me, the most magically transportive way to experience the world, its traditions, its bounty, and its flavors. In the same way you would approach a place you’ve never before visited, meet these dishes with a sense of wonder and curiosity. Challenge yourself to embrace new ingredients and techniques—you’ll be rewarded for your efforts, not only because the result will be delicious but also because you’ll go forward with the knowledge that you, too, have the power to tap into our planet’s most delicious resources in a sustainable, responsible, and ultimately effortless way. That’s a pretty good feeling, and one that pairs nicely with an ice-cold beer. Don’t forget to have one of those for me!

Consider this section your go-to resource for all things fish. We’ll cover why fish is a superior food source, as well as how to find the freshest, most responsibly raised product. We’ll explore the many different types of fish and how they like to be cooked, as well as the myriad parts of a fish that you can either eat or use to develop flavor in your cooking. We’ll talk about a surprisingly large number of techniques that you can reach for to cook fish (from completely raw to crisped over a fire), and a solid back-pocket repertoire of condiments, marinades, herbs, and spices that will best com plement your “catch.” Putting together this comprehensive section was a labor of love and is the closest thing to having me in your kitchen as you cook. Feel free to dip in again and again as you navigate the world of fish; I’ve got your back!

Maple-Steamed Whole Trout on a Wet Log, page 266

The Case for Eating Fish

Seafood is probably the healthiest protein available in your local grocery store. It’s leaner than other animal proteins, provides the best ratio of protein to calories, and contains high concentra tions of rare micronutrients that can’t be found in other types of protein, such as selenium and omega-3s DHA and EPA. Seafood also has a much lower environmental and carbon footprint than other animal proteins. In fact, some seafood products even have lower impacts than plantbased foods. Wild-caught seafood requires no land, no fresh water, and no man-made additions such as pesticides. With food production already occupying half of Earth’s arable land and requir ing countless tons of fresh water and fertilizer, you can see the benefits of letting the oceans grow our food for us. At the same time, terrestrial food production is the most significant driver of habitat and biodiversity loss on the planet.

Meanwhile, climate change is by far the most significant threat to life in the oceans. Warming seawater is altering the chemistry of the oceans and putting entire habitats, such as tropical coral reefs, at risk of extinction. The scale and impact of climate change on our oceans is hard to fathom— even protected marine areas can do little against the effects. Most ocean scientists agree that the best way to conserve the oceans is to reduce carbon emissions. And so, eating a low-carbon diet (and reducing your carbon footprint in other manners) is a great way to personally contribute to marine protection.

The Ultimate Brain Food

Rich in omega-3 fats, iodine, iron, vitamin D, and lots of minerals, seafood is an ideal protein for us to eat. In fact, some researchers believe that eating fish is what fueled the rapid growth of humans’ brains. With only a little over half of the American population eating seafood more than twice a month (and that includes canned tuna!), it is imperative from a health perspective that we

T HE C ASE FO r E AT i NG Fi SH

integrate fish and seafood into our diets. With essential minerals for fortifying the brain in adults and fueling healthy brain development during childhood, and with fats allowing nerve cells to perform properly, adding more fish and seafood into our diets is a no-brainer. That said, it should be noted that canning fish destroys a good amount of its essential omega-3 fat content, as does cooking fish at very high temperature (such as frying). To maximize the benefits of eating fish and preserve healthy fat content, it’s preferable to cook it delicately (baking, steaming, etc.) or to eat it raw.

BENEFITS OF EATING SEAFOOD

• Significant source of omega-3 fatty acids

• Reduces mental fatigue

• Boosts mental abilities and reaction time

• Can improve attention defecit hyperactivity disorder (ADHD) in children

• Reduces brain shrinkage in old age

• Can help facilitate normal brain development in premature babies.

• Potentially reduces the risk of type 1 diabetes and several other autoimmune conditions

• Helps prevent asthma in children

• Helps improve sleep (thanks to vitamin D)

• Has a low carbon footprint

FISH PARTICULARLY RICH IN HEALTHY FATS

• Mackerel (super fish!)

• Trout

• Salmon

• Tuna

What About Mercury?

• Sardines

• Shrimp

• Cod

Nearly all fish and seafood contain some mercury. (Keep calm.) That’s because mercury occurs natu rally in air, water, and soil (via volcanic eruptions, for example). It is also released through industrial processes like burning coal. And it is toxic when it reaches a certain level of accumulation in your body. Large predatory fish such as shark, big tuna, swordfish, marlin, and tilefish tend to have higher levels of mercury because it bioaccumulates as they eat smaller fish containing some mer cury. That said, higher levels of mercury can also be found in smaller fish such as perch and pike. But it’s important to note that this does not mean you should swear off eating fish. It merely means that you should be mindful of the types of fish and seafood you’re eating. It is quite possible to eat a healthy, safe diet that is rich in fish and seafood. As long as you limit eating higher sources of mercury to once a month, the benefits of eating fish far outweigh the risks.

São Vicente, Cape Verde

T HE C ASE FO r E AT i NG Fi SH

To put it into perspective, the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has set the maxi mum safe limit of mercury (measured in parts per million, or ppm) at 1.0. Below are the mercury concentrations in some popular fish and seafood species.

• Swordfish: 0.995 ppm

• Shark: 0.979 ppm

• King mackerel: 0.730 ppm

• Bigeye tuna: 0.689 ppm

• Marlin: 0.485 ppm

• Perch: 0.15 ppm

• Canned tuna: 0.128 ppm

• Cod: 0.111 ppm

• American lobster: 0.107 ppm

• Hake: 0.079 ppm

• Trout: 0.071 ppm

• Crabs: 0.065 ppm

• Haddock: 0.055 ppm

• Atlantic mackerel: 0.050 ppm

• Crayfish: 0.035 ppm

• Pollock: 0.031 ppm

• Catfish: 0.025 ppm

• Squid: 0.023 ppm

• Salmon: 0.022 ppm

• Anchovies: 0.017 ppm

• Sardines: 0.013 ppm

• Oysters: 0.012 ppm

• Scallops: 0.003 ppm

• Shrimp: 0.001 ppm

How to Determine if Fish Is Fresh

Whether you’re at a fish market or the grocery store, this is what you’re looking for:

• The eyes should be clear and bright. A fish with cloudy or hazy eyes has been caught at least three or four days before.

• If the fish still has its gills, they should be bright red.

• The scales should be firmly in place.

• The fish should have almost no smell. (A fresh fish does not smell like fish!)

• The flesh should be firm.

• If it is frozen, the packaging should be airtight, ideally vacuum sealed. You can tell that the fish has been frozen fresh if it does not appear dry at the ends.

Fresh or Frozen

“The fresher the fish is, the better it is” is probably one of the biggest myths about seafood. Frozen seafood has a bad rap, but—surprise, surprise—it can sometimes be even better than fresh fish. What matters most is quality. I’ve had fish minutes after it was caught that wasn’t very good, and I’ve regularly enjoyed frozen fish in raw preparations like sushi and sashimi.

T HE C ASE FO r E AT i NG Fi SH

Fresh Fish

PROS:

• Fresh fish is usually more moist.

• Fresh fish is a highly nutritious food that is packed with vitamins and minerals (see page 21).

• Fresh fish that has never been frozen does have a better taste and texture; however, I argue that dry-aged fish have a superior taste to a fish just caught (see page 55).

• No thawing is required.

CONS:

• Fresh fish is harder to transport.

• Fresh fish is more prone to bacterial growth.

• Fresh fish is not always really fresh. Often the “fresh” fish at the grocery store has been frozen and thawed. Sorry to break it to you.

Frozen Fish

PROS:

• North America imports most of the seafood it consumes, with products coming from all over the world. Because frozen food is easier to transport, it’s crucial to our seafood consumption.

• You can keep frozen seafood in your freezer for months, even years (properly sealed shrimp will last for up to two years). Frozen fish is often vacuum sealed, which protects the fish from freezer burn and air contamination. By contrast, fresh fish, even properly stored, will spoil after four to six days.

• If it was a quality fish when it was caught, it will still be that same high quality when it reaches your plate. That’s mostly because of flash freezing, a common technique where the fish is very rapidly frozen, which prevents the formation of ice crystals between the protein fibers that can cause dryness and impact flavor.

• Frozen fish is less expensive than fresh, which is mostly due to it being less expensive to transport. Because it’s easier to transport than fresh fish, far fewer fish, if any, are lost to spoiling. That means frozen fish generate less waste and are available all year long, which makes it more sustainable.

CONS:

• When defrosting frozen fish, some of its natural moisture content may be lost, resulting in flesh that is not as moist as fresh fish after cooking.

• Due to moisture loss (see above), water-soluble vitamins in the fish, such as vitamin B12, can be dissolved and lost through thawing, though fat-soluble vitamins will remain. In general, fresh fish retain more nutrients than their frozen counterparts.

TIPS FOR COOKING FROZEN FISH

• To thaw the fish, remove the packaging and set the fish on a plate, covered, either with paper towels or in a plastic bag, and place in the fridge overnight (see more in How to Store Fish, page 35). Removing frozen fish from its original packaging helps eliminate the risk of bacterial growth.

• If you don’t have time to wait for the fish to thaw overnight, put the frozen fish into a plastic zip-top bag and run cool water over the fish until it has defrosted.

• You can cook fish while it’s still frozen. Use a delicate cooking method such as poaching or roasting, which will ensure even heating without overcooking the fish. Pimp your poaching water with white wine or coconut milk.

How to Source Sustainably (and what sustainability means)

A fishery is said to be sustainable when it takes into account the conditions and the time required by marine ecosystems to regenerate and continue to provide wild fish and seafood without deplet ing their resources. It aims to preserve the health of the oceans and maintain their biodiversity for future generations. Simply put, if endless future generations can enjoy the fish as much as we have, it is considered sustainable.

There are programs that oversee commercial fisheries to ensure that they are run in a sustainable manner, including the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC), the Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch (seafoodwatch.org), and the Sustainable Fisheries at the University of Washington (UW). There is also a cohort of passionate scientists around the world working hard to oversee our oceans. They evaluate fisheries according to rigorous criteria and the most up-to-date scientific data.

The United States is a leader when it comes to ocean sustainability, so it’s pretty safe to assume that any seafood coming from the United States is a good option. Our agencies verify that, year after year, US fisheries do the following:

• aim to preserve the health of fish populations;

• have minimal environmental impact on marine life; and

• are based on an effective, sensitive, and responsible management system.

Sustainably Sourced?

As great as the term sustainability is in terms of what it means, it can be used very loosely when marketing a product. So in the world of store-bought fish and seafood, you will find a variety of products labeled “sustainable.” I urge you to be wary of the following:

• sustainability claims made by brands (do your own research);

• the label “wild-caught” (this means nothing more than “it wasn’t farmed”);

• “sustainable” or “responsible catch” logos that do not come from any particular association;

• products that are only “recommended” by associations (versus products that are certified); and

• seafood fraud or wrongly identified species. While this may seem unimportant, imagine if you were sold pork labeled as beef. Traceability is crucial. This is why labels and certifications matter!

When shopping at the grocery store:

HOW TO SOU r CE SUSTA i NABLY How Do I Know Which Fish at the Grocery Store Are

1 Look for eco-labels from independent, credible, and reliable organizations that offer real sustainability certification. These include the MSC, the Aquaculture Stewardship Council (ASC), Best Aquaculture Practices (BAP), and Seafood Watch. The blue MSC label and the green ASC label remain the most recognized. Only wild-caught products that come from fisheries certified according to scientific sustainability criteria will display them. It should be noted that some fisheries that are not fully sustainable are on an MSC sustainability plan, which ensures that they are taking the proper steps to be fully sustainable. It’s also worth keeping in mind that certifications can be expensive, so there are smaller fisheries that can’t afford it but do have sustainable programs. That’s why the gold standard will always be knowing the folks whom you get your fish from, asking them questions about their practices, and holding them accountable.

2 Buy products from the United States and countries with good fisheries management, such as Norway, Australia, New Zealand, and Iceland. In these places, you can trust that even depleted populations are fished at a level that will eventually rebuild the stock (like the Pacific bluefin tuna). Conversely, avoid seafood from China, Vietnam, Thailand, Indonesia, France, Spain, the United Kingdom, Algeria, and Tunisia, as well as the Mediterranean Sea, the Black Sea, and the Indian Ocean. While not all commercial fishing companies from these places are bad news, there are more frequent instances of ignoring sustainability practices, poor work conditions, heavily polluting fishing methods, and high bycatch levels.

3 Look at your grocery store’s seafood sourcing policies. Most stores have their own guidelines for how they source their seafood. Don’t be shy to ask questions or make suggestions about how they might change some of these guidelines.

4 Buy products from sustainable mail-order seafood companies. There are plenty of great sea food delivery companies out there. Just take the time to read their websites in order to find out how they source their fish and seafood. Go for companies with full transparency about where they get their products.

Farmed vs. Wild

Many people believe that farmed fish or aquaculture cannot be sustainable. This is absolutely untrue. First of all, that’s a pretty broad argument given the many methods of fish farming. Fish can be bred for food or oil using cages in the ocean, outdoor artificial ponds, indoor tanks, or, a more recent development, using aquaponics (an incredible closed system where plants are grown hydroponically in the same waters as the fish—the fish’s waste provides nutrients to the plants, and the plants help purify the water). Secondly, most farmed seafood industries based in the United States have solid environmental sustainability reputations, especially for bivalves (oys ters, mussels, clams). Farmed shellfish are some of the best foods to eat for the planet, as they generally have lower environmental costs than plants, meaning they don’t require feeding and also filter and clean the water while they’re being farmed, thereby actively and positively con tributing to the environment.

So is farmed fish (from fish farms) more sustainable than wild fish? It depends on the farm. It is important to determine if the farm’s practices are environmentally friendly. The issue of waste discharge and its impact on surrounding water systems and ecosystems is paramount. We also need to know if the fish have a good quality of life. What are they being fed? Do they have enough space to live without stress? Is the water in which they are kept clean? Have they been treated with antibiotics? While there is still not absolute transparency in the seafood farming industry, the best way to know you’re going to get the answers you want comes back to that certification on the label.

Positive Aspects of Fish Farming

• Some farmed species live in very similar conditions as they would in the wild, such as trout, clams, oysters, mussels, and some tilapia. When this is the case, fish farming has almost no disadvantages.

HOW TO SOU r CE SUSTA i NABLY

• It generally allows consumers to obtain fish at a lower cost.

• The differentiation in terms of taste and texture is minimal.

• There is no mercury present in the fish (if the fish have no contact with an open-ocean environment or they aren’t being fed wild fish).

Negative Aspects of Fish Farming

• It sometimes leads to the overfishing of small fish that are used to feed farmed fish; this is the case with carnivorous species, such as salmon.

• It is responsible for pollution (fecal waste, chemical treatment residues) that can be transferred to wild fish when discharged into river basins.

When executed responsibly, fish farming represents a sustainable solution to alleviate the burden on the world’s fish population, but, unfortunately, the way it is currently practiced by the majority of aquaculture farms poses a serious threat to marine and freshwater ecosystems. Bottom line: Besides bivalves, trout, or farmed fish from a purveyor who you know for sure uses responsible practices, skip farmed in favor of wild or products with an eco-label from groups such as the ASC, BAP (may also be listed as GAA BAP, or Global Aquaculture Alliance BAP), Friend of the Sea, or Global Trust.

Ikejime:

The Gentle and Tasty Way to Kill a Fish

If you are catching your own fish, it’s important to know how to harvest it properly and ethically. Ikejime is a 350-year-old Japanese fish preparation method that I learned about as I started spearfishing for sport. Also known as “braining” the fish, this practice paralyzes the fish and drains the blood. It not only quickly desensitizes the fish but also preserves the fish’s flavor and texture and allows the flesh to develop a better taste when aged (see page 55). If you eat the fish in the same day, you won’t necessarily notice a big difference in taste and texture, but give it three, four, five days (a fresh fish that’s been correctly handled can actually spend a good five to six days in the fridge without spoiling) and you’ll see how pearly and firm the flesh will be and how concentrated the flavor is, thanks mainly to no buildup of lactic acid.

How to Perform Ikejime

1 The fish has to be alive. This is mainly to avoid rigor mortis (the fish becoming stiff).

2 “Brain” the fish by inserting a knife into its brain. This will desensitize the fish. (Whether or not you use ikejime, this is the most expedient and ethical way to end a fish’s life.)

3 Cut the gills. This is where the main artery is. You want to do this as soon as possible after catching the fish to drain as much blood as you can; otherwise, the blood will start to coagulate.

4 Make an incision in the tail, then break the spinal bone so it’s exposed.

5 Insert a sharp, stiff wire into the spine. The fish will tremble, but, I assure you, it won’t feel anything (hence the braining step). Keep doing this until the fish stops moving. This step prevents the nervous sys tem from staying active, which can toughen the meat.

6 Keep the fish in a bucket of its native water (salt or fresh) with some ice, head down, and let all the blood drain. The blood draining is very important, as it is the blood that gives the fish an unpleasant fishy taste.

How to Store Fish

From the Sea

If you went fishing and caught fish, well firstly, congrats! Second, here are a few steps to follow from the boat all the way to your home:

1 The second the fish hits the boat, bleed it. Ideally you want to ikejime it (see pages 32–33), but let’s be realistic here—if you’re on a boat, you probably don’t have an ikejime kit. To bleed a fish, you want to “brain,” or desensitize, it first (otherwise he may wiggle, causing you to cut yourself, or, as has happened to me, he may try to bite you, which is fair enough when you think about it). Another method is to “stun” the fish by hitting it hard on the head (a bit gory, I know). Both methods prevent the fish from feeling anything, which is more humane, and prevent lactic acid buildup that can spoil the meat and make it mushy. With the fish immo bile, the scales will stay intact; this is preferable, as they protect the fish from a slime that forms after rigor mortis. This is also a good indication, when you buy one, that a fish was properly handled!

2 Cut the gills from the gill plate at the top. You will see blood come to the surface pretty quickly. If you don’t, keep wiggling the knife until you see blood emerge.

3 Stick the fish in a bucket of its native water (salt or fresh), head down, with a bit of ice. You want the water to be cold but not freezing so as not to trigger rigor mortis. Head down (or tail up) is important because you don’t want the blood (which has a very fishy taste) to “con taminate” the meat. After 15 minutes, you can put the fish in a cooler.

4 If you want to be really thorough, you can gut the fish according to the instructions on page 287 before storing the fish in a cooler. (I highly recommend this.)

H OW TO S TO r E Fi SH

When you get back to shore, your job isn’t done. If the fish is in rigor mortis, let it warm up a bit and get back to its normal shape. You then have a few options:

1 Butcher the fish into fillets. (See page 286.) If you opt for skin on, don’t forget to scale the fish before filleting it (unless it’s a scaleless fish, such as salmon or mackerel).

2 Leave the fish whole (and scaled; see page 287). If you didn’t gut the fish on the boat (tsk, tsk), don’t forget to do it now, as the entrails will spoil the meat.

3 Scale and cut the fish into steaks. (See page 290.) This is simply cutting the fish crosswise, as you would slice a sausage.

4 If you want to freeze your fish, I highly recommend that you invest in a vacuum sealer (about $90). If you don’t have one, put your fish in a good-quality airtight bag. A properly vacuumsealed fish will last 6 to 8 months in the freezer. In an airtight bag, it will last a couple of months (check for freezer burns).

5 If you want to put the fish in the fridge, after patting it dry, wrap it in paper towels, making sure no flesh is exposed to the air. Place the fish on a plate or in a plastic zip-top bag in the fridge. Stored this way, it will last for at least 3 to 4 days. This is a sort of “dry aging” (see page 55), which will remove excess moisture (moisture is what spoils the fish). You can do this with a whole fish as well (it’s actually better, and no cover is needed since the skin will prevent it from drying out); just make sure it is scaled first. I like to change the paper towels every day or so, but if you see that they have absorbed liquid, change them more frequently. Nothing will spoil more quickly than a wet fish.

HERE ARE A FEW OTHER TIPS:

• When you get home, pat the fish dry really well.

• Unless there is skin still on the fish, put it in a bag (you don’t want the flesh to be directly on ice, as it will spoil the meat) and place the bag on ice right away!

• Save the heads and the bellies. Those are the best parts! If it’s a bigger fish, you can also keep the ribs. Just like land-animal meat, the flesh closest to the bones will be very tasty.

From the Store

1

If you have errands to run, pick up your fish last. Otherwise, bring a little cooler with you.

2 If the fish is fresh, take it out of its packaging when you get home and wrap it in paper tow els. Make sure none of the flesh is exposed to air or it will dry out. Depending on the fresh ness, you will be able to leave the fish in the fridge this way for a few days (at least four or five).

3

If it’s frozen, remove the packaging it came in, which will help prevent bacteria formation. Ideally, defrost the fish in the fridge overnight in an airtight bag or wrapped in paper towels. But if you’re in a hurry, place the fish in an airtight bag and soak it in cold water until defrosted.

Rinsing Fish Before Cooking

There are two schools of thought when it comes to rinsing fish. One says that fish should never be rinsed with fresh water (some even say it should only be wiped with a dry paper towel and no water at all), and the other says rinsing is fine. I am team “I’ve got shi** to do,” so I’ll quickly rinse my fish with sink water and I don’t have to spend any extra time scrubbing off the blood and guts with paper towels. To this day, none of my fish have been ruined with a quick rinse, but I’m still young, so don’t hold me accountable for this. If you want to be thorough, you can also make a seawater-like brine and rinse the fish in that (or even soak it for 10 to 15 minutes). Brining your fish will enhance its flavor and help keep it moist (see page 55). As a general rule, use 2 table spoons of salt to 4 cups of water.

Fish Cuts and Fish Bits

When I first met Mike Nelson, the executive chef of GW Fins in New Orleans, he made an anal ogy that I will never forget: “If you saw someone butcher a chicken, take the breast only, and throw the rest of the bird in the garbage, you would probably think that person is insane.” There’s so much great stuff left on that bird—the dark meat, the bones, the skin, some of the organs, and all the little bits of meat that you can pick off the carcass to make a whole new dish. Well, the same goes for fish. That’s why this chapter is dedicated to learning about all the bits of the fish that you can use.

Fillet

The fillet is the most popular part of the fish. It comes in many shapes, most commonly pavé or escalope, which is basically a bigger fillet that is cut into several pieces. You can leave the skin on or remove it. I personally like leaving it on, because in addition to tasting delicious, it contains a lot of beneficial nutrients and oils. (Though some fish, such as grouper, monkfish, and swordfish, have thicker skin that can be difficult to eat.) If you are going to leave the skin on, be sure to clean it well by rinsing it under cold water before cooking, as it can be slimy. Scales, on the other hand, should always be removed (see diagram on page 287). Because they protect the flesh of the fish, I recommend scaling as close to cooking as you can. However, finding scales all over your house and in your hair for six months afterward is also not recommended, which is why I scale my fish at the dock or ask the fishmonger to do it for me when I buy fish. (If you scale the fish yourself, keep the scales! We’ll turn them into gummies on page 205.) For instructions on how to fillet fish, see page 286.

Fi SH C UTS AND Fi SH Bi TS Whole

Cooking a fish whole can seem daunting—bones everywhere, eyes looking at you, difficulty know ing whether you’ve cooked your fish all the way through. Rest assured, there is an easy way. The best way to cook whole fish is to first make friends with your fishmonger. Tell them you want to cook a whole fish, and they will help you pick the right species, then gut it, scale it, and clean it for you. All you’ll need to do at home is season it and roast or fry it. Here are the steps to follow:

1 Clean your fish by rinsing it under cold running water. This isn’t totally necessary, but I do it. Slimy fish is not what we’re going for.

2 Score the fish. With a knife, cut slits about 1 inch apart across the top of the fish. They do not need to be super deep, just enough to cut through the skin and the surface of the flesh. This will ensure that the fish cooks evenly. You can even stuff butter into the cuts! (See also “Scor ing” on page 290.)

3 Brush the fish with olive oil inside and out (unless you are frying it).

4 Stuff the fish. Fresh herbs (thyme, basil, tarragon, mint—whatever you like), slices of lemon (or just the zest mixed with your stuffing if you want to save the slices for squeezing over the cooked fish), or even vegetables such as garlic, fennel, leek, and onion. This helps not only to flavor the fish but also to keep the flesh moist.

5 Sprinkle spices on top of and inside the fish. Just make sure you don’t use too many salty spices! Simple salt and pepper is delicious, but feel free to add cumin, paprika, cayenne pep per, lemon pepper (watch that salt content!), Chinese five-spice—anything you like!

6 Cook with high heat; no “low and slow” needed with whole fish. I recommend 400°F to 425°F until the fish reaches an internal temp of 140°F, then let it rest for 5 minutes.* I like using a meat thermometer, which means I always know when my fish is perfectly done.

7 Serve with melted butter or good-quality olive oil and freshly squeezed lemon juice.

* Unlike meat, fish normally doesn’t need to rest because it is more delicate and has different types of proteins. However, when cooking a whole fish that’s a bit bigger, there are some advantages to letting it rest. The fish meat will be less flaky and hold better after a five-minute rest, making it easier to slice and to pick out bones. It will also ensure a more even internal temperature (thanks to the skin holding in the heat).

WHOLE FISH RECIPES: Whole Fried Lionfish with IPA Mayo (page 99), Baked Whole Snapper with Spicy Tarragon Chimichurri (page 261), Maple-Steamed Whole Trout on a Wet Log (page 266), Salt-Crusted Whole Fish (page 113), Grilled Whole Stuffed Fish with Sun-Dried Tomatoes, Feta, and Herb Butter (page 159)

Roast (Bone-In and Bone-Out)

I got the idea of a fish roast, like a rump roast or a chuck roast, after I caught a marlin. Grabbing a slab of the big fillet, I couldn’t help but think about how it looked like a piece of meat that you would cook in the oven. The advantage of fish is that the connective tissues and the proteins are way more delicate than meat, so you don’t need to cook it for hours to be edible. But you can develop flavor in a very similar way to cooking meat. For large fish fillet “roasts,” I like to first sear it in a pan on all sides in hot oil until a nice golden crust forms, then I roast it slowly at 250°F in the oven on a baking sheet or in a Dutch oven with some stock, basting it occasionally with olive oil mixed with my favorite seafood spice rub, until it reaches an internal temperature of 140°F. You want it pink in the middle; an overcooked fish roast will taste as bad as an overcooked piece of chuck.

If you decide to keep the ribs in (see page 128), you can make a fish version of rib roast or rack of lamb by following the same steps. Not only will it look absolutely beautiful but, just like with meat, the flesh closest to the bones will be very flavorful. If it’s a smaller fish (such as snapper, salmon, cobia, or jack), slice it between the ribs to get cutlets. If it’s a bigger fish (like swordfish, amberjack, marlin, wahoo, or tuna), cut it between the ribs for a beautiful tomahawk “steak.”

ROAST RECIPE: Big Fish Roast with Fumet Sauce and Kohlrabi (page 224)

Ribs

Fish ribs are a thing. If you are terrible at filleting fish and always leave a bunch of meat on the bones, even better. I can’t say this enough: just like meat, the flesh closest to the bones is absolutely amazing. If you have a bigger fish, roughly fillet the fish. Trim the sides to remove fins and side bones. You’ll be left with a beautiful rack of fish ribs. I like to cook the rack whole and then slice it between ribs, just like you would do with pork ribs.

RIB RECIPES: Amberjack Rack of Ribs (page 128), Tuna Tomahawk with Salsa Verde (page 197)

Fi SH C UTS AND Fi SH Bi TS Cheeks

The cheeks are probably the most famous “dark meat” on a fish. They are very tasty and a prime example of why we should really expand our horizons when we eat fish and not just consume fil lets. When the fish is big enough, I like to remove the cheeks before cooking. That way I can control how they are cooked and make sure they melt in your mouth texture-wise. You don’t even need a recipe to do right by them—just fry ’em up in butter!

Heads and Collars

Ahh . . . the fish head and collar, or the fish clavicle that sits behind the gills and includes part of the belly. My absolute favorite part of a fish. Yes, even better than the fillets. After I tried my first fish head, I never threw out another one again. They are that good. The meat is fattier, juicier, more tender, and more flavorful. I am yet to meet a person I’ve forced to try fish head and/or col lar who didn’t like it. And you would be surprised how much meat you get out of them.

HEAD AND COLLAR RECIPES: “Leftover” Fish Headcheese with Tarragon and Capers (page 153), Grouper Heads with Ponzu Butter (page 124), Fish Head Nachos (page 127), Fish Trim Nuggets with Habanero-Apricot BBQ Sauce (page 135)

Skin

Fish skin is delicious and full of omega-3s, collagen, and vitamins D and E. Crispy fish skin adds great texture to a dish. However, not all fish skin is edible. Mackerel, salmon, trout, snapper, sar dines, and perch—any fish with thinner, good-looking skin, I’ll leave on and eat. Halibut, cod, and eel, by contrast, can be slimy and mucus-y and are very hard to work with. You can salvage eel skin by rubbing it with a lot of salt, but let’s not go crazy here. I also do not leave the skin on when I’m preparing catfish, bluefish, and monkfish—their skins tend not to taste very good. And I discard the skin if a fish came from polluted waters or if it’s a species with high mercury levels, such as tuna. Lastly, for fish with very thick skin, such as triggerfish, grouper, cobia, or large amberjacks, I remove the skin since it can be tough to eat but use it to make fish chicharrónes (see page 174). It’s a delicious and healthy(ish) treat. These are the secrets to getting crispy skin:

1 Pat the fish dry with a paper towel and rub it with salt. Leave it for 15 minutes. This helps draw out some of the moisture, which makes it easier to get a nice golden sear.

2 Pat dry again or rinse under cold water to remove the salt.

3 Make sure the fish is at room temperature. If it’s too cold, the skin will shrink and curl, and you’ll be left with a funny-looking fillet that is unevenly cooked. If the skin is very thin, like on a mackerel, you may want to make some cuts (I like to do a crosshatch pattern) to keep the skin from curling.

4 Make sure your oil is very hot, so use a neutral oil with a high smoke point, such as canola, sunflower, grapeseed, or rice bran oil. When the oil starts smoking, it’s ready to go.

5 Press the fish down in the pan to help the skin brown evenly. You can use a spatula or a bacon press. Make sure you keep that pressure for 1 to 2 minutes. Using a spoon, baste the fish with the hot oil to ensure even cooking.

6 When the skin is golden brown, flip the fish over and cook until the flesh is opaque and doesn’t stick to the pan anymore. You could also transfer the whole pan to a 350°F oven for 3 to 4 minutes.

SKIN RECIPES: Trout Mi-Cuit (page 103), Fish Tacos, Three Ways (page 178), Caviar Cod with Smoked Oyster Sauce (page 216), Mini Kingfish Wellingtons with Mustard-Tarragon Stuffing and Beurre Blanc (page 86), Fish Skin Chicharrónes with Black Bean Dip (page 174), Asian Fish Soup (page 246), Mackerel Toast with Charred Cherry Tomatoes and Pickled Shallots (page 85)

Roe

Caviar is the most common use for fish roe. As a luxury and a very prized product, it’s been unsus tainable for years. Luckily, the tide is turning and it’s becoming a sustainable product to buy ( just make sure you know where it’s from). Salmon roe is normally a good option when certified. Another amazing use for fish roe is bottarga, a salted and cured fish roe typically from bluefin tuna or gray mullet. If you like sea urchin, there’s a good chance you’ll love bottarga. Shaved on top of pasta, it’s one of the best tastes of the sea, in my opinion. I’ve tried to make bottarga with mahi mahi, amberjack, grouper, and many other species. Regardless of the fish, it will always be deli cious, but I have to admit that nothing beats the creaminess and richness of a mullet or bluefin bottarga. You can also eat fish roe raw, which I love to do with pasta.

ROE RECIPES: Fish Tacos, Three Ways (page 178), Caviar Cod with Smoked Oyster Sauce (page 216), Tater Tots with Smoked Mackerel Crème Fraîche and Caviar (page 118), Snapper Roe Bottarga (page 155)

Fi SH C UTS AND Fi SH Bi TS Belly ( Toro)

Most people think of very expensive sashimi when they hear the word toro. It’s a cut from the belly of a fish and was made popular using bluefin tuna. On bigger fish such as these, you get three parts of toro: behind the collar (kamatoro), the front (o-toro, the most expensive), and just behind the stomach (chu-toro). For the rest of us peasants who can’t (or won’t) spend a fortune on a piece of fish, then salmon, grouper, or even amberjack bellies will do the trick. The belly is the fattiest part of a fish, and when prepared correctly (see diagram on pages 288–289; it’s easy I promise), you’ll have a super-tasty piece of fish that would normally (actually, crazily) be discarded. A friend of mine has a salmon processing factory in Florida, and after I went to visit, I left with a garbage bag full of salmon bellies. I was more excited than a kid at Christmas. Once you eat a belly, you won’t go back.

Eyes

Fish eyes are a delicacy in a number of cultures around the world. If you can get past the texture, they have a very good umami taste. I’ll be honest, it’s not my favorite bit to eat, but I found a way to make them better—by pickling them! You can also fry them, which will help to change the texture as well. They are full of nutrients and very good for you. Don’t knock it ’til you try it!

Bones

I am a big fan of broth. I always have a stash of chicken, beef, and fish broths in my freezer; broths are always a good thing to have in your back pocket when you cook, since they make the best base for sauces and soups. Or just to have a cup to sip. Fish stock and fumet have an advantage over meat broths in that they are way quicker to make. (See page 70 for recipes.) Do yourself a favor and keep your carcasses when you go fishing, or ask your fishmonger if they have some in the back. Another use for fish bones is the marrow. On a bigger fish, when you cut the spine, you can’t miss it. You’ll see a gelatinous substance inside the vertebrae. It may sound weird, but it’s really good. Not only is the marrow itself delicious, so is the meat around the spine. When you bake it, you’ll be amazed at the flavor; you’ll swear you’re eating bacon. Ask your fishmonger to set some aside for you, just as you would the butcher!

EYE RECIPE: Pickled Fish Eyes (page 237)

BONE RECIPES: Asian Fish Soup (page 246), Fish Bone Marrow (page 177), Fish Fumet (page 70)

Scales

You can use the scales! If they’re small, such as those from fish like snapper, sea bass, or jack, you can fry them for a healthy, crunchy topping. First, rinse them thoroughly. Blanch the scales quickly in boiling water, then use a slotted spoon to remove them. Add a teaspoon of salt of any kind and a splash of soy sauce and white (or any light) vinegar so that the scales are coated, and let them marinate for 30 minutes. Add a pinch of all-purpose flour and a beaten egg, and mix so the flour sticks to the scales. Heat about an inch of neutral oil ( just enough to cover the scales) until it is barely bubbling, then add the scales and fry until golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to strain out the scales and transfer them to a paper towel to soak up any excess oil. Let them rest for 10 minutes. Serve as a topping over raw or cooked fish—or turn them into gummies!

RECIPE: Scale Gummy Bears (page 205)

Liver

When I discovered that fish liver is good to eat, my first (very French) reflex was to try to make fish foie gras. I used grouper liver, and it was . . . not good. The fishy taste was way too overpower ing. But I didn’t despair and tried again with monkfish liver, and it was absolutely delicious. Fish liver is full of unsaturated fat that is really good for you. The most common fish species used for their livers are monkfish, cod, snapper, and halibut. They can be hard to find at the store, which is why making friends with your fishmonger is a good solution.

Milt

Fish milt is, well . . . fish sperm. Yes, you read that right. It is the male version of fish roe. When one of my friends first told me milt is really good to eat, I was a bit shocked. I’ve seen the substance in fish several times, not knowing what it was. Since my eyes have been opened to the wonderful secret world of fish sperm, I now always keep milt when I find it inside a fish. It has a beautifully creamy and rich texture that reminds me of foie gras mixed with tofu.

SCALE

MILT RECIPE: Fish Milt Bites (page 131)

Fi SH C UTS AND Fi SH Bi TS Wings

Fish wings—which are basically the pelvic fins—are as amazing as they sound. They’re another prime example of fish “dark meat” that shouldn’t be discarded. When made properly, you’ll be left with a nice piece of meat on a single big bone that you can munch on, just like a chicken wing. Once you’ve mastered maximum-yield fish processing (see pages 288–289), fish wings will become part of your ritual.

(page 202)

Steaks (Darnes)

I never used to make fish steaks. I didn’t like the idea of picking around bones with a fork, since a fish steak isn’t really something you eat with your fingers. Then I was reading through a French seafood cookbook from the 1980s and found a technique I’d never seen before: fish tournedos made with fish steaks. The middle bone is removed so that you have a piece of fish that you can stuff and fold around like a medallion (see page 290). What a discovery!

WING RECIPE: Fish Wings with Herb Pesto Dip

TOURNEDOS RECIPE: Mini Kingfish Wellingtons with Mustard-Tarragon Stuffing and Beurre Blanc (page 86)

Fish Wings with Herb Pesto Dip,

Whole Fried Lionfish with IPA Mayo,

101 Ways to Cook a Fish (more or less)

When it comes to cooking fish and seafood, the world is your oyster (sorry, couldn’t resist). Every cooking method will bring you different textures, tastes, and experiences—because some of them are actual experiences (see Mussels Éclade with Brown Butter and Rosemary Dipping Sauce on page 149). Have fun with it, try fresh things, push boundaries; a whole new world awaits you! Consider yourself warned: it’s addicting.

Grilling (Barbecue or Wood Fire)

The difficulty with grilling fish is that, as it cooks, it becomes flaky. So when you try to move it, it will break apart and fall through the grate of the grill, and you’ll lose your meal and be very sad. Almost as sad as the day when a raccoon stole my fish fillet as it was marinating on my picnic table while I was camping. Luckily, there are many tools that will help prevent this from happening (falling through the grill, not raccoon fishnapping) and make an amazing grilled fish, whether you’re cooking it whole or only the fillets.

GRILLING MAT: These are very cheap and readily available online or at grocery stores. They are heat resistant and will prevent your fish from disintegrating into the fire, so you can grill in peace.

SKEWERS: If you have a fish that’s not too flaky (such as cobia, salmon, or cod), shish kebabs are a great idea. Marinate the fish (see page 74), add some veggies, and throw the skewers directly on the grill! If you’re using wood skewers, be sure to soak them first for 15 to 20 minutes, which will prevent them from burning.

101 W AYS TO C OO k A Fi SH

FISH GRILL BASKET: These baskets basically sandwich the fish between two smaller grates, which helps keep the fish in place and prevents it from falling apart. It will allow you to grill any delicate fish, even whole, without a worry.

CAST-IRON SKILLET: A cast-iron skillet is a must when you grill or go camping, despite the weight. It’s the easiest tool for making great-tasting fish, especially when cooking over a fire. My trick is simple: Add a bit of olive oil to the pan for searing, followed by lots of butter for basting as the fish cooks through. Finish with a simple squeeze of lemon juice before serving. Yes puh-lease.

COALS: You may have heard of cooking meat directly on coals. Like on it, on it. Well, you can also do this with fish. Place the fish on the coals (wood, not charcoal), cook until it doesn’t stick to the coals anymore, then finish the cooking on your grilling mat or cast-iron skillet. It will have a fan tastic charred flavor that will be perfectly balanced with a simple squeeze of lemon juice.

If you don’t have access to any of these tools, cooking the fish whole is always a good solution, as the skin will keep it together.

GRILLING RECIPES: Whole Fried Lionfish with IPA Mayo (page 99), Grilled Whole Stuffed Fish with Sun-Dried Tomatoes, Feta, and Herb Butter (page 159), Grilled Clams with Butter, Garlic, and Parsley (page 146), Grilled Shrimp with Bagna Cauda (page 201), Grilled Lobster (page 223)

Frying

Frying fish in a pan of hot oil is probably the easiest way to make fish at home, though I find that I need to give a little more thought to the flavor and texture departments to keep things from get ting boring. I’ll use a rub or a batter, or I’ll do a breaded fillet (like a grown-up version of fish fingers). If I’m using a rub, I’ll cover the pan. But if you want crispy texture, don’t cover the pan, or the fish will steam and you’ll lose the crispiness you’re after. If you’re dredging your fish in a batter, bread crumbs, or flour, fry it until the fish has a nice golden-brown color and crispy texture on the outside. I like to fry the fish in oil at a high temperature, then reduce the temperature to low and add butter to the pan for basting.

FRYING RECIPES: Grilled Clams with Butter, Garlic, and Parsley (page 146), Fish Milt Bites (page 131), Buttermilk Fried Fish and Pancakes with Jalapeño Honey (page 191), Whitebait Chips with Yuzu-Tarragon Mayo (page 245), Whole Fried Lionfish with IPA Mayo (page 99), Fish Fingers with Spicy Dill Yogurt (page 219), Tuna Tomahawk with Salsa Verde (page 197), Fish Trim Nuggets with Habanero-Apricot BBQ Sauce (page 135), Caviar Cod with Smoked Oyster Sauce (page 216), Cajun Fried Catfish on Jalapeño Corn Bread (page 198)

Steaming

A good-quality fish will taste amazing simply steamed. It doesn’t have to be complicated. Just cook the fish or seafood in a steamer, covered, until cooked through. But if you want to go a little fur ther, you could wrap the fish in banana leaves or another flavorful vessel or even set the fish on a wet log over a fire for a smoky taste. You can serve the fish with just the basics (olive oil, lemon juice, flaky sea salt, and pepper), or you can prepare a sauce to pour over the top, if you want to make it fancier.

STEAMING RECIPES: Maple-Steamed Whole Trout on a Wet Log (page 266), Steamed Giant Clams with Lobster Bisque and Aged Cheddar (page 215)

Poaching

Poached fish may sound like a boring on-a-diet meal, but if done right, it can be delicious. The flavors and aromas in the poaching liquid will be everything. You can poach in coconut milk fla vored with lemongrass, curry paste, star anise, and fresh ginger, for example. Or poach in a home made fumet (see page 70), broth, or even chicken or vegetable stock. You can also poach in a tomato sauce or in a mix of white wine, garlic, and fresh thyme. The potential flavor combinations are endless, so feel free to play around and develop your own. Just do not let the simmering liquid boil; you want the finished fish to be flaky and tender; boiling will make it tough.

POACHING RECIPES: Asian Fish Soup (page 246), Scandinavian Fish Soup (page 241)

Baking

Baking fish is easy, quick, low-fat, and perfect for a weekday dinner. While most people are famil iar with baking fillets, you can also bake a whole fish, which makes for a very impressive dinner. (If you want to make it even simpler, add some tomatoes, zucchinis, or other quick-cooking vegeta bles to the pan for a one-and-done meal.) For flavor, baste the fish in a spice rub mixed with melted butter or a bit of olive oil. Or, if you’re feeling confident, you can wrap the fish in foil to make a pouch, then add aromatics like herbs, onions, spices, and a splash of white wine to infuse the fish as it cooks. With this method, you won’t be able to get a visual on the cooking, but you can always take a peek, and if it needs a few more minutes, close the pouch up and put it back in the oven. (More on this with “En Papillote” cooking on page 58.)

101 W AYS TO C OO k A Fi SH

BAKING RECIPES: Fish Bone Marrow (page 177), Fish Puttanesca (page 107), Fish Wings with Herb Pesto Dip (page 202), Grouper Heads with Ponzu Butter (page 124), Mini Kingfish Wellingtons with Mustard-Tarragon Stuffing and Beurre Blanc (page 86), Baked Whole Snapper with Spicy Tarragon Chimichurri (page 261), Cobia Potpie (page 104), Fish Head Nachos (page 127), Seafood Boil in a Bag (page 193), Grouper Belly Bacon with Maple and Whiskey (page 257), Salt-Crusted Whole Fish (page 113), Swordfish Stew (Bougna; page 227)

Salt

Salt is more than just seasoning; it can also be used to cook fish and seafood. Packing fish in a salt crust creates a cocoon in which the fish cooks gently, resulting in moist, juicy, and perfectly sea soned flesh. Salting your fish for 15 minutes before cooking will draw moisture out, intensifying the flavor, and if you are frying the fish, it will result in a crispier skin.

You can also use salt to cure fish, which is how gravlax is made. The salt and the sugar remove moisture from the fish, leaving dense, flavorful flesh and, when vacuum sealed, weeks of extra shelf life. The last, but not least, way to use salt for cooking is one of my favorite food discoveries: a salt block. The flavor it gives fish is amazing. All you have to do is gradually heat the block, then place the fish on top of it to sear. You can easily find these blocks at home supply stores like Lowe's and Home Depot or online for not much more than $20 to $30.

SALTING RECIPES: Salt-Crusted Whole Fish (page 113), Salt Block–Seared Fish (page 117), Amberjack Gravlax (page 234)

Stews

There are a lot of ways to make fish stews, and they’re not just good for “tough” fish, as they are with meat. Because fish is so delicate, you don’t need to cook it for hours; rather you just add it at the end. The fish will quickly take on the flavor of the stew, and you’ll have a delicious one-pot meal.

STEW RECIPE: Swordfish Stew (Bougna; page 227)

Soups

Fish soups are some of my favorite dishes because of how good they make you feel when you eat them; they always remind me of what my grandmother would cook for me. Just like with stews, the trick is to add the fish (or seafood—soup is amazing with shrimp, lobster, clams, and even

101 W AYS TO C OO k A Fi SH

oysters) as the very last step, at which point it’ll soak up all the flavor you’ve developed in the soup. This is when having a good homemade fish stock in your freezer can come in handy (see page 70). One bonus of making seafood soup is that you can use the shells to create a stock first. That way nothing goes to waste, and you get much more flavor for it.

SOUP RECIPES: Asian Fish Soup (page 246), Mamie’s Fish Soup with Rouille Toasts (page 145), Scandinavian Fish Soup (page 241), Swordfish Stew (Bougna; page 227)

Searing

If you can’t decide whether to eat a fish raw or cooked, well, seared is a good happy medium. Fur thermore, some fish, like tuna, wahoo, or amberjack, can become tougher when cooked, so searing is a great way to prepare them. You can do a light sear to create a thin crust (tataki) or a heavier sear that keeps just the middle raw. It is so easy to do and looks really pretty when sliced and topped with a colorful herb sauce or even simply served with a charred lime or lemon.

SEARING RECIPES: Salt Block–Seared Fish (page 117), Wahoo Tataki with Herb Sauce and Cucumber (page 95)

Canning

Canned fish has been around for quite a while. While mainly for preservation and practicality, canned fish and seafood can be really tasty. And not just tuna; this includes canned anchovies, sardines, mussels, oysters, and clams. When used properly, canned fish and seafood is a very prac tical ingredient to have in your pantry, because it can turn into a delicious meal without a lot of work. Just make sure that you pick a product that’s been produced sustainably and that the sodium levels aren’t too high (i.e., above 250 grams per can).

CANNED FISH RECIPES: Canned Anchovy Pasta with Capers, Red Pepper Flakes, and Lemon (page 163), Canned Sardines Poke Bowl (page 167), Mackerel Toast with Charred Cherry Tomatoes and Pickled Shallots (page 85), Seaweed Tapenade with Sardines and Salicornia (page 265)

Oil Curing

If you want to preserve fish, canning with olive oil is ideal. You most likely have bought or at least seen tuna in olive oil at some point in your life. I love canned tuna, but traceability can be a bit

shady sometimes, so I make my own to be safe. You actually can use any firm fish to do this, such as swordfish, cobia, amberjack, halibut, or marlin. All you need to do is bring a brine to a boil (traditionally, 1 cup of salt to 1 gallon of water) and simmer the fish for about 10 minutes, then let the fish cool on a rack. As soon as it’s cool, you can transfer the fish to a sterile jar and add enough olive oil to cover, leaving 1 inch of headspace at the top of the jar. Seal the jars and store as you would canned tuna. They will last up to 5 years.

Pickling and Brining

First, let’s distinguish the difference between brining a fish and pickling it. Brining means preserv ing and/or flavoring with a salt-and-water mixture. Pickling means preserving with salt (ferment ing) or preserving with acid (usually half water, half vinegar). I use brining before cooking any type of fish, fresh or previously frozen. It entails soaking the meat in the diluted saltwater solution, which permeates the muscle tissues and dissolves them, giving you more moist and tender fish. Pickled fish is traditionally made with fatty fish such as herring or mackerel. It is very common in Scandinavia and came around primarily for preservation purposes, but with the right spices, it is definitely a delicacy.

PICKLING AND BRINING RECIPES: Pickled Fish Eyes (page 237), Dill-Pickled Perch with Pumpernickel, Radishes, and Herb Sour Cream (page 235)

Dry Aging

Dry-aged fish has been around for thousands of years but has recently regained some popularity among chefs. The main goal of dry aging is to get rid of excess blood, slime, and moisture, which is the key to keeping fish fresh for longer. I can also vouch that dry-aged fish is the best fish I’ve ever had as far as preparations go. Visiting Liwei Liao (aka the Dry-Aged Fish Guy) in Los Ange les completely changed my perception of fish and how it can be treated. However, dry agers can be expensive and inaccessible. Luckily, there is an easy DIY version. By placing fresh fish, wrapped in a paper towel, in the fridge for a few days (three to eight days; see How to Store Fish on page 35), you will considerably reduce the moisture and sliminess, achieve a firmer texture, and be left with extremely tasty fish (without a fishy taste). A just-caught fish is great, but dry-aged fish is even better. Or as Liwei (whom I forced to become my dry-aged-fish mentor by harassing him with hundreds of questions) nicely puts it, “Fresh is boring!”

101 W AYS TO C OO k A Fi SH Smoking

Just like it sounds, smoking fish means cooking it with smoke, which gives it a—you guessed it— nice smoky flavor. You can cold- or hot-smoke pretty much any fish; however, it’s easier and tastier when you use fattier fish such as salmon, tuna, mackerel, herring, trout, swordfish, or even mussels.

Cold-Smoking

Originally used as a preservation technique, cold-smoking slowly dries out raw fish while giving it a smoky, earthy flavor that adds incredible depth to just about any dish. You’ve most likely seen smoked salmon or white fish in the grocery store—both are great examples of just how tasty cold-smoking can be. It is also pretty simple to do.

STEP 1: Thaw your fish fully. If you are smoking a small fish, such as sardines, mackerel, trout, or herring, you can leave it whole. Bigger fish like salmon, snapper, jack, and grouper need to have their head, gills, and guts removed. You can also smoke fillets, but know that you may lose some of the meat, as it will become dry and crusted.

STEP 2: Cure the fish with a 1:1 ratio of salt (ideally coarse kosher) and sugar. You want the fish to be fully covered. Or brine it by adding 1 tablespoon of salt for every cup of water.

STEP 3: Regardless of the curing method you picked, cover the fish in plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. If using the dry rub, note that water will seep out of the fish, so make sure to use a plate or a container with raised sides to catch it.

STEP 4: Rinse the fish under cold water and pat it dry with paper towels.

STEP 5: Wait for the fish to dry completely. The best way to do this is in the fridge; ideally set the fish on a wire rack so that air can circulate around it. Leave it for a couple of hours or up to a day.

STEP 6: Place the fish in a cold smoker and smoke for 6 to 8 hours.

Hot-Smoking

Hot-smoking, whether done in a smoker or a pellet grill, cooks the fish through, creating a flaky texture infused with smoky flavor. You can hot-smoke any fish; just make sure it’s fresh and good quality. Smaller fish can be smoked whole, while big fish will need to be filleted. I like leaving the skin on when possible.

STEP 1: Season the fish with a rub or any dry spices (see page 73 for ideas).

STEP 2: Use either direct or indirect smoke to cook the fish. With direct smoking, such as with a pellet grill, the fish will be done quickly. A fillet can be ready in a few minutes, while a whole fish takes roughly 30 to 45 minutes, depending on the size of the fish. Using a meat probe is highly recommended; you’re looking for an internal temp of 135°F to 140°F. Using indirect smoke, the fish will cook slowly, between 1 and 3 hours depending on the oven temperature you choose: between 170°F and 200°F, the fish will need about 3 hours; between 200°F and 275°F, the fish will need 1–2 hours; and for 375°F and higher, under an hour.

Roasting

As the flesh of a fish is delicate, baking is often preferred over roasting. The difference between the two has to do mostly with how hot the temperature is and how quickly the air is moving inside the oven. I personally think the ideal temperature for cooking fish in the oven is 300°F versus roasting at a higher temperature like 400°F; but, especially when cooking a whole fish that is pro tected by its skin, a hotter oven is definitely doable.

ROASTING RECIPE: Big Fish Roast with Fumet Sauce and Kohlrabi (page 224)

Mi-Cuit

Not sure if you want to eat fish cooked or raw? Mi-cuit is your solution, as it’s in between. (Mi-cuit means “half cooked.”) It also happens to be one of my favorite preparations for fillets. With mi-cuit, a good-quality fatty fish will melt in your mouth like you won’t believe. The easiest way to make a mi-cuit is to preheat your oven to 350°F, sear your fillet in hot oil on the stovetop for about a minute on each side, then place the whole pan in the oven for 2 to 3 minutes. Your fish will be cooked on the surface and raw in the center (in a good way). If you have the crispy skin on, it will be even better. (Follow the tips on pages 42–43 for getting perfectly crispy skin.) Cut the fish into bite-size pieces and season with just kosher salt, freshly ground black pepper, and a squeeze of fresh lemon juice. Serve skin-side up to make sure it stays nice and crispy.

MI-CUIT RECIPE: Trout Mi-Cuit (page 103)

101 W AYS TO C OO k A Fi SH En Papillotte

Cooking fish en papillote (French for “in paper”) means cooking it in the oven while wrapped in either foil or parchment paper. This creates steam, which cooks the fish. Since you are wrapping the fish, the flesh is protected, and you can cook it at a higher temperature (400°F), so it’s nice and quick (usually 12 to 15 minutes, depending on the size of the fish). For this reason, I especially like making fish en papillote when I cook over an open fire. If you’re wondering whether you should use foil or parchment paper, foil sticks a little less, so I think it’s easier for picking up after your meal. (Also, parchment paper runs the risk of catching fire.) But both can support high tempera tures, and both will yield a beautiful moist, flaky fish. To give your fish even more flavor as it cooks, add flavorful liquids and aromatics to the pouch. I like using fish fumet (see page 70), dry white wine, onion, fresh herbs, and spices. You can also throw some vegetables in there, such as fennel, onions, leeks, bok choy, watercress, tomatoes, carrots, and/or potatoes, and make a one-pack meal!

Sous Vide

This is another way to confit fish. You will need a sous vide immersion circulator, which keeps the water at an exact temperature over a period of time. This gives you a lot of control over your cook ing, and it will guarantee a perfectly cooked, moist, and tender fillet every time. Just like with confit, I recommend brining (see page 55) or salt curing (see page 52) your fish first for even bet ter texture and flavor. The temperature you choose is up to you.

SOUS VIDE SALMON/ TROUT/ ARCTIC CHAR COOKING TEMPERATURES

TEXTURE TEMPERATURE

Firm 105°F

Soft (but not yet beginning to flake) 110°F

Translucent and just beginning to flake 115°F

Very flaky, moist, and tender 120°F Firm, moist, and flaky 130°F

Confit

Confit fish is a restaurant’s best-kept secret; it’s a French technique you may have seen used with duck legs. To confit is to cook an ingredient slowly and gently in oil or fat, resulting in a very ten der texture and rich flavor. It’s absolutely phenomenal! And all you need for a basic confit is fish, salt, and olive oil (or any type of fat, such as duck fat). That said, I do recommend brining (see page 55) or salt curing (see page 52) the fish first. It makes a big difference in the taste and will give you a smoother, more buttery texture.

CONFIT RECIPES: Arctic Char Confit with Parsnip Mash and Fennel Slaw (page 258)

Microwaving

Yes, you can microwave your fish. I know it sounds absolutely blasphemous, but it is actually quite practical. We are all busy and want to eat healthy. No shame in the game. Microwaving fish is just another way to steam it, which keeps the fish moist. Here’s how you do it:

1 Use a microwave-safe dish.

2 Add some flavor to the fish (spices, lemon, garlic, oil, etc.).

3 Add 2 tablespoons of liquid to the dish. I like 1 tablespoon of white wine and 1 tablespoon of fish fumet (page 70). You can also use coconut milk or citrus juice.

4 Cover your dish to make sure steam can’t escape.

5 Cook for 3 minutes on high, then check if the fish is done. The flesh should be opaque and break easily with a fork. If it’s not fully done, add an extra 30 seconds until fully cooked.

Gandy Beach, Florida

Preparing and Eating raw Fish

The basic rule of thumb for raw fish is that most marine fish can be eaten raw, so long as they’re harvested from a place with good clean water and handled properly. (There are some exceptions, which we’ll talk about in a bit.) Raw preparations of freshwater fish, on the other hand, should be avoided because of the risk of tapeworm. Google it; it’s not worth it. When in doubt, don’t eat it raw, or at least freeze it for twenty-four hours. You can always talk with your fishmonger about what they advise.

When choosing a fish to eat raw, know that while the term sushi grade is more of a marketing tool and means nothing FDA-wise, it is still an indication that it’s safe to eat that particular fish raw. It means that the fish was frozen to at least –4°F (–20°C). Whether you buy fish from the grocery store or eat your own catch, unless it’s farmed salmon (no worms) or any kind of fresh tuna (they live in deep cold waters away from risk of worms), it is recommended to freeze your fish for at least twenty-four hours before eating it to avoid parasites. You can also ask your fishmonger to flash freeze it for you, if they have the equipment. (Or use my hack; see page 62.) If your fish has already been frozen, which is usually the case at most grocery stores, then you do not need to freeze it again.

When preparing raw fish, remember to always slice it against the grain. (See page 290.) Fish flesh is very fragile and can easily get damaged if you apply too much pressure. Having very cold fish and a very sharp knife when slicing is also helpful. I like putting my fish in the freezer for 5 to 10 minutes before slicing it.

Pr EPA ri NG AND E AT i NG rAW Fi SH

A (Non-exhaustive) List of Fish You Can Eat Raw: Skipjack, salmon, trout, snapper, am berjack, yellow jack, almaco jack, wahoo, black bass, porgy/scup, striped bass, Spanish and cero mackerel, arctic char, tilapia, triggerfish, mahi mahi, grouper, tilefish, catfish (yes!), bonito, floun der, halibut, sea bream, mackerel, sardines, African pompano, cobia, as well as modest amounts of tuna and yellowtail (which can have high mercury levels)

A (Non-exhaustive) List of Seafood You Can Eat Raw: Lobster, clams, oysters, mussels (one of my grandmother’s favorites), shrimp, scallops, eel, octopus, conch, abalone, squid, calamari, cuttlefish, crabs

Fish to Avoid or Limit Eating Raw: Any freshwater species, cod, haddock, grouper, pollock (these can be watery and don’t taste great raw), blue marlin, king mackerel, sea bass, swordfish

FLASH-FREEZING HACK

1. Place a block of dry ice in a cooler.

2. Put a piece of cardboard on top of the dry ice

3. Place the fish on top of the cardboard.

4. Add another piece of cardboard on top of the fish.

5. Put another block of dry ice on top of the second piece of cardboard.

6. Close the cooler lid.

7. One day later, the fish is good to go.

Raw Fish Preparations

Crudo

Crudo means “raw” in Italian and Spanish. It is often confused with sashimi, but crudo is different as it is ingredient-focused versus fish-focused, meaning the fish is dressed with an acid, an oil, salt, and pepper. And maybe a little garnish on top. The secrets of a good crudo, in my opinion, are simplicity (why using good ingredients matters), high-quality fresh fish, good flaky sea salt (I like

Maldon), and an amazing olive oil. When making a crudo, there’s no specific size, shape, or tech nique involved with how the fish should be sliced; the world is your oyster. I like big 1-inch cubes so the taste of the fish is predominant. One of my favorite ways to eat lobster is by making a crudo; I had to convince a few people to try lobster raw, but they were in love after the first bite.

Types of fish this works for: Good-quality firm fish that you can slice easily, including tuna, salmon, trout, snapper, bream, yellowtail, amberjack, yellow jack, almaco jack, wahoo, rockfish, black bass, porgy/scup, striped bass, Spanish mackerel, arctic char, tilapia, triggerfish, mahi mahi

Types of seafood: Lobster, clams, oysters, mussels, shrimp, scallops, eel, octopus, conch, abalone, squid

Acidity/sauce options: Lemon, grapefruit, lime, all types of orange, ponzu (see page 71)

Oil options: Good-quality olive oil or aromatic oil (basil, tarragon, chili oil, sesame, etc.)

Garnish options: Keep it simple with microgreens, cucumbers, fresh or dried chilies, or citrus zest.

CRUDO RECIPE: Trout Crudo with Beet, Sumac, and Pickled Pearl Onions (page 270)

Sashimi

Sashimi is the simplest way to eat fish. It consists of carefully sliced raw fish and nothing else. The quality of the fish is crucial, and so is the technique of slicing it (and the knife you’re using). Good sashimi-grade fish is killed through the ikejime method (see pages 32–33), as this kills the fish instantly, preserves its flavor and texture, and keeps it fresher for longer. It is usually served with soy sauce and wasabi. To be completely honest here, I had sashimi on the back of a boat, cut using my dive knife (which isn’t very sharp), and it was really good—proof that it doesn’t take much to make good sashimi and that only the quality of the fish is key. As fun as making sashimi on a boat can be, though, I have found that the fish is better after resting for a few days in the fridge (see page 36).

Types of fish this works for: A firm fish you can slice easily, though really any fish you can eat raw can be used for sashimi (see page 62). There are several options for the thickness of your sashimi, and that also will affect which fish are best to use: hira-zukuri (1/3 inch), kirikake-zukuri (1/2 inch with two extra cuts in the middle; ideal for soft fish with tough skin or seafood, such as mackerel or squid), usu-zukuri (paper-thin; ideal for smaller fish such as hogfish, flounder, small snappers, lionfish), hegi-zukuri (shaved at an angle, like slicing gravlax), and hoso-zukuri (1/3 by 1/3–inch strips).

Pr EPA ri NG AND E AT i NG rAW Fi SH

Types of seafood: Any type of seafood that can be eaten raw (see page 62)

Acidity/sauce: The traditional dipping sauce is soy sauce and wasabi. You can also make a mix of lime or lemon juice and soy sauce.

Garnish: Typically, sashimi is served with no garnish apart from a side of raw ginger and daikon.

SASHIMI RECIPE: Sashimi with Ginger and Soy (page 108)

Tartare

Tartare is made of raw meat or seafood that’s chopped up and mixed with raw egg, sauce (usually mayo), dressing, and/or other seasonings. It is usually minced or diced rather than thinly sliced. I like using fish trims that don’t look good, since when it’s all bonded together, you don’t know what the fillet looked like initially.

Types of fish this works for: There are two types of tartare: the firm-fish type and the soft-fish type. When using a firm fish (such as snapper, jack, salmon, cobia, mahi mahi, or tuna), you want to cut equal-sized small cubes. If using soft fish (such as bonefish), you want to mince it finely. Any fish that you can eat raw will make a great tartare.

Types of seafood: Lobster

Acidity/sauce: A mayonnaise or cream-based sauce is delicious and will bind your tartare together. You can also use aromatic oil and a small amount of citrus (you don’t want the flesh to cook).

Garnish: Capers and fresh herbs are traditional, but any fresh fruit or vegetable will work, depend ing on the flavors in the sauce.

TARTARE RECIPES: Snapper Tartare with Cured Quail Egg and Chimichurri Mayo (page 183), Lobster Tartare with Fried Capers and Sun-Dried Tomato Vinaigrette (page 92)

Ceviche

Ceviche is a South American dish consisting of cubed fish that’s been “cooked” in citrus juice and garnished with red onions and cilantro. However, the beauty of ceviche is that pretty much anything you like will work well in it. You like mango, celery, beet, or orange? Throw it in there. (I mean, don’t add peanut butter; be reasonable.) Here are a few of my secrets to mak ing ceviche:

1 Cilantro is the star ingredient; there is no such thing as too much of it.

2 Mince your onion into very small pieces; nobody wants a big bite of onion.

3 A little kick never hurt anyone. (Cayenne pepper is my go-to, but jalapeño, serrano, and, if you can handle it, habanero work wonders.)

4 Use good fish. If it smells funny, it probably is.

5 Vary your citrus. I like playing with orange, Meyer lemon, grapefruit, blood orange, and even clementine.

6 Control your “cooking” time: 10 to 15 minutes in the marinade will give you the equivalent of medium-rare; 15 to 25 minutes will give you medium; and 25 minutes will give you mediumwell. Over 25 minutes, you’re fired. Joking, it’s more than fine to like it extra cooked.

Types of fish this works for: You want to use a firm fish in order to avoid mushy ceviche. Great examples include tuna, salmon, trout, snapper, bream, yellowtail, amberjack, yellow jack, wahoo, almaco jack, rockfish, black bass, porgy/scup, striped bass, Spanish mackerel, arctic char, tilapia, and triggerfish.

Types of seafood: Lobster, clams, oysters, mussels, shrimp, scallops, eel, octopus, conch, abalone, squid

Acidity/sauce: For an acid, you can use all types of lemon, grapefruit, lime, and all varieties of orange. If you’re using a sweet citrus, balance it with lemon or lime juice to make sure the fish cooks properly. You can also add coconut milk for a Polynesian version!

Garnish: Any vegetables and fruits you see fit. If using produce that can get very ripe and soft (such as avocado, mango, and kiwi), opt for ones that are still a bit firm.

CEVICHE RECIPE: Baby Scallop Ceviche with Kohlrabi and Pineapple (page 123)

Pr EPA ri NG AND E AT i NG rAW Fi SH Carpaccio

Carpaccio is also a crudo, but the fish is sliced super thin. While it is more common to see this dish made with beef, it is absolutely extraordinary with fish (and some vegetables, too). Like a crudo, it is served with oil, an acid (usually lemon), and a simple garnish. I like to make carpaccio with fish that can be tougher (such as amberjack or snapper), because when it’s sliced super thin, it will melt in your mouth. Use a very sharp knife, and don’t forget to place your fish in the freezer for a few minutes beforehand to keep it from squishing when you cut it with your knife.

Types of fish this works for: You want to use firm fish; otherwise, slicing it very thin will be challenging. Go with tuna, salmon, trout, snapper, bream, yellowtail, amberjack, yellow jack, wahoo, almaco jack, rockfish, black bass, porgy/scup, striped bass, Spanish mackerel, arctic char, tilapia, or triggerfish.

Types of seafood: Lobster, clams, oysters, mussels, shrimp, scallops, eel, octopus, conch, abalone, squid

Acidity/sauce: You don’t have to go overboard with the acidity, as a carpaccio is eaten raw. You can play with sweet citrus such as orange, grapefruit, and tangerines. A good-quality olive oil or aromatic oil will pair beautifully. Mayonnaise or another creamy sauce can also be delicious.

Garnish: Keep it simple in order to not take away from the delicate taste of the raw fish. Try arugula, citrus zest, capers, or microgreens.

Tataki

Tataki is the Japanese technique of preparing meat (mostly beef) or fish (mostly tuna) in which the product is briefly seared on all sides but left raw in the middle. After chilling briefly, it is then sliced into thin pieces and neatly arranged on a plate. (You want to use a good knife for this; if not, your tataki will look like flaky tuna from a can.) When tataki is served, it is traditionally topped with soy or ponzu sauce mixed with citrus juice and aromatics like grated ginger, onions, and sliced garlic.

Types of fish this works for: You want to use a firm fish that will keep its shape after it is cut into slices. You also want to prioritize bigger fish with thicker fillets (otherwise the middle won’t be raw). Try tuna, salmon, trout (big ones), yellowtail, wahoo, amberjack, yellow jack, almaco jack, rockfish, black bass, porgy/scup, striped bass, Spanish mackerel, arctic char, tilapia, or triggerfish.

CARPACCIO RECIPE: Whelk Carpaccio with Spicy Mayo and Dill (page 269)

Types of seafood: N/A

Acidity/sauce: Ponzu (see page 71), citrus juice, soy sauce, sesame oil, chili oil

Garnish: Grated ginger, grated daikon, citrus zest, chopped green onions (green and white parts), microgreens, fried garlic, chopped shallots

TATAKI RECIPE: Wahoo Tataki with Herb Sauce and Cucumber (page 95)

Aguachile

Aguachile means “chili water” in Spanish and is usually made with raw shrimp, fresh chili peppers, lime juice, red onions, cilantro, and cucumbers. The shrimp bathe in a cold broth that’s spicy and gently citrusy (contrasting with ceviche). While a sauce that has a watery consistency can sound boring, aguachiles are anything but when prepared correctly. You can now find all kinds of modern takes on this dish, which include ingredients like avocados, octopus, different species of fish, and even mangos.

Types of fish this works for: You want a firm fish that isn’t going to disintegrate or get mushy. Good choices include tuna, salmon, trout, snapper, bream, yellowtail, amberjack, yellow jack, wahoo, almaco jack, rockfish, black bass, porgy/scup, striped bass, Spanish mackerel, arctic char, tilapia, or triggerfish.

Types of seafood: Shrimp, lobster, and scallops are the most obvious choices, but you can use any firm seafood that can be eaten raw (see page 62).

Acidity/sauce: Juice of watery vegetables or fruit (cucumber, celery, watermelon), a bit of acid ity (citrus), and spiciness (chili)

Garnish: Cucumbers, red onions, radishes, not-too-ripe mangos or avocados, microgreens, fresh fruit

AGUACHILE RECIPE: Aguachile with Serrano Pepper, Kiwi, and Fried Quinoa (page 185)

Baby Scallop Ceviche with Kohlrabi and Pineapple, page 123

The Ultimate Fish-Cooking Staples

Fish prep is really easy with a few basics in your fridge and pantry. After stocking up—and reading the recipes in this book—my hope is that you’ll have the confidence to “throw a few things together” and make a beautiful, quick, basically effortless meal. At the end of the day, it’s all about going with what you like to eat and how you like to eat it. Channel the movie Ratatouille ; anyone can cook!

MAKES ABOUT 8 CUPS

A fish stock is made with fish bones and/or whole carcasses, spices, aromatics, and water. It is a healthier option for adding flavor to a dish without fat. Use it to cook rice or vegetables, or as a base to a sauce. This stock lasts in the refrigerator for up to 4 days and in the freezer for up to 2 months.

5 pounds fish bones (carcasses, heads, collars, etc.)

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 medium or 1 large onion, chopped

4 celery stalks, or 1/2 peeled celeriac root, chopped

T HE U LT im ATE Fi SH -C OO ki NG S TAPLES Fish Stock

2 medium parsnips, chopped

1 medium leek, halved, rinsed well, and chopped

2 fresh thyme sprigs

2 dried bay leaves

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spread the fish bones evenly over a baking sheet and roast until browned, 15 to 20 minutes.

2. In a pot large enough to fit the fish bones, vegetables, and water, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Sauté the onion, celery, parsnips, and leek until they are soft, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the herbs and fish bones.

3. Add 8 cups water (or enough to fully cover the fish) and bring to a simmer over medium heat (you never want a strong boil). Simmer for 30 to 60 minutes; the longer it simmers, the stronger the flavor will be. If a white foam forms at the surface, skim it off with a slotted spoon.

4. Strain the stock and discard the solids. Store the stock in a freezer-safe container in the freezer for up to 6 months.

Fish Fumet

MAKES ABOUT 8 CUPS

Although they can be interchangeable terms, a fish fumet is different from a fish stock. A fumet has a delicate taste and is often used to poach fish or to create sauces. I add white wine and mushrooms and simmer for a shorter time.

1 tablespoon olive oil 2 medium or 1 large onion, chopped

4 celery stalks, or 1/2 celeriac root, chopped

2 medium parsnips, chopped

5 ounces button mushrooms, sliced

1 medium leek, halved, rinsed well, and chopped

5 pounds fish bones (carcasses, heads, collars, etc.)

3 fresh thyme sprigs 2 dried bay leaves 21/2 cups dry white wine

1. In a big pot, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Sauté the onion, celery, parsnips, mushrooms, and leek until they are soft, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the fish bones and cook, covered, for 10 to 12 minutes, until opaque. Stir in the herbs.

2. Add 8 cups cold water and the wine and bring to a simmer (you never want a strong boil). Simmer for 20 to 30 minutes; the longer it simmers, the stronger the flavor will be. If a white foam forms at the surface, skim it off with a slotted spoon.

3. Strain the fumet, discard the solids, and store it in a sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 4 days or in the freezer for up to 2 months.

* For a shellfish stock: Replace the fish bones with crustacean shells (same quantity). Heat the oil, then fry the shells first until they turn a darker red, about 5 to 6 minutes. Add the

vegetables and sauté until softened. Add 3 ounces of tomato paste, stir to coat the shells and vegetables, and cook for 15 minutes. Cover the shells with water and simmer for 30 to 40 minutes over medium heat. Skim and discard any foam rising to the surface. Strain the solids, and store in the refrigerator in a sealed container for up to 4 days or in a freezer-safe container in the freezer for up to 2 months.

Ponzu

Ponzu sauce is a Japanese condiment made from soy sauce (or tamari), dried bonito flakes, citrus juice, dried kelp, and rice wine vinegar. It’s what I always serve as a dipping sauce with tataki, cooked fish, dumplings, sushi, and sashimi because it manages to complement the fresh flavor of the fish rather than overpower it. As some ingredients are hard to find (and we all have busy lives), storebought is a fine option. But if you’d like to make your own—which will always taste much better—here are a couple of variations from my friends at Fin + Forage in California, which I was lucky enough to visit (after almost freezing to death in Northern California’s waters).

Grapefruit Ponzu

MAKES ABOUT 21/2 CUPS

1 cup soy sauce or tamari

1/2 cup bonito flakes (katsuobushi)

1 large strip dried kombu (about 8 by 4 inches)

Pinch of crushed red pepper flakes

2 tablespoons sake or mirin

2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar

1 tablespoon fish sauce

1 teaspoon peeled and grated fresh ginger

Juice of 2 limes

Juice of 1 red grapefruit Zest and juice of 1 lemon

1. In a small saucepan set over medium heat, combine the soy sauce, bonito flakes, kombu, red pepper flakes, sake, vinegar, fish sauce, and ginger. Bring the mixture to a simmer and remove the pot from the heat to cool to room temperature.

2. Boil a 16-ounce canning jar in water for 10 minutes. Remove it from the boiling water, set it upside down to drain and dry, then, once it’s cool enough to handle, add the citrus juices. Strain the soy sauce mixture into the jar and discard the solids. (Alternatively, you can leave all the solids in the sauce for up to 24 hours before straining to develop an even stronger flavor.)

3. Screw the lid on tightly and store the sauce in the refrigerator. Shaking the jar in the morning and the evening, let the sauce sit for at least 24 hours but ideally 3 or more days. It will last in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

Smoky Mezcal-Yuzu Ponzu

MAKES 2 CUPS

3 oranges, halved

3 lemons, halved

3 limes, halved

1/2 cup shoyu or aged soy sauce

1/2 cup bonito flakes (katsuobushi)

1/4 cup yuzu juice

2 tablespoons mirin

1 tablespoon peeled and minced fresh ginger

1 tablespoon mezcal, plus more to taste

1 small (11/2 -inch) piece of kombu

1. Preheat the grill to medium-high heat. Lay the oranges, lemons, and limes cut-side down on the grill and cook until charred grill marks form, about 5 minutes. Remove the citrus from the grill.

T HE U LT im ATE Fi SH -C OO ki NG S TAPLES

2. When cool enough to handle, juice the grilled citrus into a small bowl and discard any seeds.

3. In a small saucepan, bring all the ingredients to a simmer over medium heat. Remove the pot from the heat and let the mixture cool to room temperature. Taste and add more mezcal, if desired.

4. Boil a 16-ounce glass canning jar in water for 10 minutes. Remove it from the boiling water, set it upside down to drain and dry, then, once it’s cool enough to handle, pour the sauce into the jar, tightly cover with a lid, and store in the refrigerator for at least 2 days and up to 1 week before using. (The longer it sits, the more intense the flavor will be). Strain and discard the solids before using.

Sushi and Sashimi Dipping Sauce

The obvious sushi and sashimi dipping sauce is soy sauce. But when it comes to flavoring your dipping sauce, you can use spicy chilies, garlic (raw or fried), yuzu, rice wine vinegar, lime or lemon juice, fresh or dried ginger, mirin, sesame oil, green onions, orange juice, pineapple juice, and so on.

A soy sauce base isn’t your only option, though. You can use a ponzu sauce (see page 71) or a lemony or spicy mayo. I also love to use a Vietnamese nước chấm sauce. Or go OG and have your sushi and sashimi with no sauce at all to enjoy the pure flavor of the fish. A beautifully dry-aged and fatty salmon sashimi needs nothing apart from salt.

Marinades, Rubs, and Seasonings

Some fish, no matter how fresh and tasty, can benefit from a little extra oomph to bring out their natural umami flavor. Marinades and seasonings are an easy way to balance and enhance your fish’s flavor without taking away from the star of the show.

The difference between a rub and a marinade is that a rub is made of dry spices while a mari nade involves a liquid. Think of a rub as a nice massage while a marinade is a relaxing bath. Each has its advantages:

• A rub (apart from salt) won’t penetrate the fish much, so it’s a great way to season a fish right before cooking it. It will create a light crust, locking moisture inside the fish.

• A marinade, because it usually includes an acid, will help tenderize and flavor the meat. Since fish is delicate, I recommend marinating for no more than 10 to 15 minutes. I also recommend seasoning the fish with salt and pepper before marinating it. Unless you have dry aged your fish (see page 55), you can leave your salted fish in the refrigerator for 20 to 30 minutes. Then wipe or rinse off the salt and marinate it.

Best Spices and Herbs for Seasoning Fish

These work in any number of combinations, or you can buy a ready-made seafood rub or even a meat rub that you like.

• Blackened seasoning

• Caraway seeds

• Cayenne

• Celery salt

• Crushed red pepper flakes

• Curry

• Dried dill

• Dried lemon peels

• Dried marjoram

• Dried mint

• Dried mustard powder

• Dried orange peels

• Dried oregano

• Dried parsley

• Dried sage

• Dried seaweed

• Dried tarragon

• Dried thyme

• Fennel (seeds and ground)

• Fenugreek

• Fresh herbs such as parsley, tarragon, thyme, or rosemary

• Garlic powder

• Ground cardamom

• Ground cinnamon

• Ground cumin

• Ground ginger

• Ground turmeric

• Ground white pepper

• Harissa

• Lemon pepper

• Saffron

• Smoked paprika

• Smoked salts

• Sumac

And, last, of course, I had to include my own spice mixes! Bahama Mama, French 75, and Nordic Summer are ready-made mixes that elevate even the simplest dish. Here’s how you can make simi lar mixes at home to use in the recipes throughout the book.

French 75

1/4 teaspoon ground coriander

1/8 teaspoon ground white pepper

1/4 teaspoon ground fennel seed

1/4 teaspoon fenugreek powder

Bahama Mama

1/4 teaspoon garlic salt

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/4 teaspoon smoked paprika

1/4 teaspoon ground cumin

Nordic Summer

1/4 teaspoon dried dill

1/4 teaspoon granulated sugar

1/4 teaspoon dried lemon peel

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon garlic powder

T HE U LT im ATE Fi SH -C OO ki NG S TAPLES

Winning Fish and Seafood Marinade Combinations

1 Lemon or lime, olive oil, some fresh herbs, salt, and pepper—it is simple but a go-to for a reason. You can also add spices from the list on page 73.

2 Maple syrup or honey; Worcestershire or soy sauce; citrus juice (lime, lemon, grapefruit, or orange); a few “earthy” spices such as cumin, ground ginger, smoked paprika, and/or dried mustard; and chopped fresh garlic

3 For Asian-inspired flavor, go with coconut milk, sliced red chilies, lime juice, fish sauce, grated fresh ginger, a bit of sugar, and cilantro.

4 Soy sauce, rice wine vinegar, sambal, lime juice, and sesame oil

5 For a crowd-pleasing marinade, try this popular combination made famous by Chef Nobu Matsuhisa: miso, mirin, sake, and sugar.

6 For a Korean-style marinade, try gochujang (a Korean red chili paste), soy sauce, and olive oil.

7 Greek yogurt, garam masala, orange and lemon zests, roughly chopped fresh cilantro, and crushed red pepper flakes (optional)

Oils

Oils work beautifully with fish and seafood. You can use them either to cook your fish and seafood or to season them. Use a neutral oil (sunflower, canola, grapeseed) if you want to make a crispy fish in a pan, and use a good-quality olive oil if you want to use the oil for flavor. Oils can also be mixed with other ingredients, such as lemon, dry spices, or fresh herbs, to make them flavorful. If you are cooking something that takes time or are slow cooking (a fish roast or a whole fish, for example), use an aromatic oil to baste the fish as it cooks. In a raw fish dish, use an aromatic oil, such as chili or basil oil, and drizzle over the fish or seafood to add flavor.

Vinegars

Vinegar and fish or seafood can seem like an odd match, but they go very well together. Escabeche is a great example of vinegar used with fish (see Halibut Escabeche on page 238), as the vinegar is used to preserve, “cook,” and flavor the fish. Or vinegar can be sprinkled on top of grilled, battered, or breaded fish, as with England’s famous fish-and-chips. It adds a nice brightness and helps cut

the greasiness of fried fish. Vinegar can also help “clean” the fish before cooking. Dipping fish in vinegar will remove any fishy smell in addition to lending taste to the final dish. You can also use it to wash your hands if they smell fishy! For longer preservation, vinegar can be used to pickle fish and seafood. Jars of marinated fish, mussels, or clams are great items to have in your pantry.

Dairy

There is an old myth claiming that eating seafood or fish with dairy products is toxic and can cause skin diseases. As it turns out, that’s the case only when the fish has gone bad or when whoever is consuming the fish has a lactose intolerance or a fish allergy. Basically, it has nothing whatsoever to do with the combination of fish and dairy. Yogurt makes a great marinade for fish because it gives the meat a pleasant tanginess while keeping it nice and moist. Add some Mediterranean flavors, such as oregano, dill, cumin, fennel, and lime juice, or go the Indian route with a curry or a garam masala yogurt marinade. You won’t need to marinate the fish for more than a couple of hours; in fact, fifteen minutes is enough to give it good flavor if you’re short on time.

You can also use yogurt as a dipping sauce. I love doing a tzatziki type of dip with a greasier fried fish, like my Fish Fingers with Spicy Dill Yogurt (page 219) or Crispy Halibut with Yogurt Achiote, Fingerling Potatoes, and Chorizo (page 173). The tanginess of the yogurt pairs very well with the fattiness of the batter or bread crumbs.

Citrus

Citrus is the golden child of flavor when it comes to fish and seafood. This type of acid balances a meal and will bring a bright and clean taste to whatever it is you’ve prepared. Whether you use lemon, lime, grapefruit, orange, or clementine, or if you are making cooked or raw fish, there is always an upside to using citrus. I usually recommend, at the very least, serving your fish and sea food dishes with a squeeze of lemon juice.

Herbs

Herbs will always bring a welcome freshness to your fish or seafood dishes. Pretty much any herb you can find at the grocery store will work and adds great flavor to whatever you’re cooking. Parsley, thyme, cilantro, tarragon, chives, rosemary, basil, Thai basil, dill, mint, you name it—it’s a winner. I always garnish a fish or seafood dish with an herb or an herb butter. So should you.

r egions & r ecipes

South Africa

In 2015, while I was living in England, my social media content caught the eye of a French TV station, and they asked if they could make a documentary about my life. They were particularly interested in the radical contrast between being a young pro fessional working in finance and my days as a fisherwoman in remote corners of the world. This offer to travel with a film crew to Durban, South Africa, and then on to Sod wana Bay on the border of Mozambique, a marine reserve and one of the world’s best dive sites, was way too good to pass up.

The trip ended up being a pivotal moment for me, personally and professionally. I had at my fingertips 30 miles of reefs and 1,000 species of fish and, of course, a lot of sharks. I was humbled by the enormous wealth gap in South Africa and had a difficult time coming to terms with the extreme destitution surrounding the bigger cities, the xenophobia between neighboring countries, and the rampant effects of the HIV/AIDS crisis. In the remote villages where we stayed, three out of four people were infected, and food was scarce. But even so, we were met with nothing but generosity, which touched me deeply. Most notably was my hosts’ willingness to teach me the basics of South African braai, or barbecue—though to call it that is an understatement. To braai is to load up a giant wood-fired grill with anything and everything—lamb, beef, chicken, springbok (a type of antelope), warthog, ostrich, and, of course, fish. The fire is tended to for hours as guests gather and chat. As a Northeastern North American whose primary means of cooking seafood was boiling, “grilling” and “fish” just weren’t things that went together naturally for me. But now I can’t think of one without the other. The rich, complex flavor the fire gave the freshly caught fish could never be rep licated in a pan on the stove. It was simplicity at its best. It is, in many ways, just like meat and can be seasoned and cooked accordingly. But the most important lesson came one day when I was filleting a wahoo and a woman approached me to ask for the head. I had no idea what she could do with this piece of the fish that I usually chucked. After seeing my hosts laughing and shaking their heads, I realized that I’d just given away the most valuable, juicy, and flavorful part of the fish.

My time in South Africa was also a turning point professionally, because it showed me that life offers a wide range of opportunities I had never considered before. Being paid to do cool sh**? What?! I realized that I could continue on this path and make it my livelihood. Upon my return to London with the meager $200 I netted from doing the project, I decided to leave everything behind and change my life.

As I learned in South Africa, many types of fish benefit from being cooked just like meat. So if I hear that a type of fish tastes like chicken, I cook it like chicken. Since jerk chicken is one of my favorite dishes, I wanted to see if I could use the same seasoning and cooking method for a firm-fleshed fish like cobia. Sure enough, it’s become one of my go-to reci pes. It’s perfect with simple baked sweet potatoes that get tossed into the oven while you make the fish.

Jerk Cobia with Baked Sweet Potatoes

SERVES 4

2 medium sweet potatoes

3 small to medium fresh tomatillos, papery skins removed

1 large garlic clove, minced

1 tablespoon minced fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 tablespoon olive oil 1/2 jalapeño

1/4 habanero

1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/3 cup pineapple juice

1 tablespoon sugar

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon jerk seasoning

1 pound firm, thick white fish fillets, such as grouper, snapper, cod, or pollock

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F.

2. Wrap each sweet potato in a sheet of foil, then bake them in the oven for about 1 hour, or until a knife goes all the way through when poked. Set aside, still wrapped in foil.

3. When the potatoes are done, switch the oven to broil. Place the tomatillos on a baking sheet under the broiler and broil until charred on the outside, 5 to 10 minutes.

4. Add the tomatillos to a blender along with the garlic, parsley, olive oil, jalapeño, habanero, thyme, cumin, black pepper, pineapple juice, sugar, salt, and jerk seasoning. Blend until smooth.

5. Transfer the tomatillo mixture to a medium sauté pan set over medium-high heat. Let the liquid reduce, without stirring, for about 5 minutes, then add the fish and butter to the pan. Cook the fish for about 5 minutes, using a spoon to baste the sauce as it cooks, then flip and continue cooking for another 5 minutes, or until tender and cooked through. Serve with the baked sweet potatoes and the tomatillo sauce.

Just like making sausage with meat, this is a preparation that’s perfect for using bits of fish that are often overlooked. Considering I was named the Trash Fish Queen (by myself), I love this recipe because I can turn something with fish or fish parts that people would normally turn up their noses at into something really delicious. I’ve even put it to the test—when asked in a blind taste test whether people could taste snapper versus grunt (a bottom-dwelling fish that fisherman tend to catch only when going for more popular grouper or triggerfish), no one could guess which was which.

Fish Sausage with Shrimp Chunks

SERVES 4 TO 6

8 ounces orange fish, such as salmon, arctic char, or trout

8 ounces small shrimp, peeled and deveined, divided in half

4 large egg whites, plus 1 whole large egg

1 cup bread crumbs

1 shallot, minced

1 teaspoon French 75 spice mix (see page 73)

1. In the bowl of a food processor, combine the fish and half of the shrimp. Pulse until the mixture reaches a coarse consistency.

2. Add the egg whites, whole egg, bread crumbs, shallot, spice mix, salt, pepper, lemon zest, and basil to the food processor. Pulse until well combined.

3. Take the remaining shrimp and roughly chop it into small chunks. Fold the shrimp into the fish mixture.

4. Lay a large sheet of plastic wrap on a countertop, then place the fish mixture in the middle. Use your hands to shape the mixture into a 12-inch-long log and roll up the log in the plastic wrap. Twist the ends of the plastic wrap until the log is shaped like a sausage. Place the sausage roll in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours, or up to 24 hours.

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Zest of 1 lemon 1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil

2 tablespoons canola oil

5. When you’re ready to cook, bring a large pot of water to a boil, then wrap the sausage roll in two more sheets of plastic wrap, making sure the ends are tied or twisted tightly and sealed and that there is no air in the plastic wrap. Boil the sausage roll for 15 minutes, then remove it from the water. When it’s cool enough to handle, remove the plastic wrap.

6. In a large sauté pan set over medium-high heat, heat the oil until lightly smoking. Slice the sausage into rounds, then fry on each side until golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes total. Serve immediately.

Mackerel is hands-down one of the best-tasting fish there is in my opinion. It’s sweet, not too salty, and oily and fishy in all the right ways. Luckily, it is also cheap, sustainable, and eas ily available. (I discovered this amazing fish when I was a broke student and tired of eating instant ramen.) To my surprise and delight, buying mackerel frozen is just as good as fresh. So grab yourself a bag of frozen fillets, feel good about it, and enjoy this tasty dish.

Mackerel Toast with Charred Cherry Tomatoes and Pickled Shallots

SERVES 2

1 large shallot, thinly sliced

1/2 cup distilled white vinegar

11/4 teaspoons kosher salt

1 cup regular (not lite) mayonnaise

1 (5-ounce) can tuna (in water or oil), drained well (optional)

1 tablespoon fresh lemon zest

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon minced garlic

2 tablespoons minced fresh tarragon

2 teaspoons Bahama Mama spice mix (see page 73) or Old Bay seasoning

1. In a small glass bowl, add the shallot, vinegar, and 1 teaspoon of the salt. Mix well to combine, then cover and place in the refrigerator to pickle for 1 hour.

2. In a medium bowl, combine the mayonnaise, tuna (if using), lemon zest, lemon juice, garlic, tarragon, spice mix, the remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt, and the pepper. Mix well.

3. Preheat your broiler to high.

4. Place the cherry tomatoes on a rimmed baking sheet, cut-side down. Place the tomatoes under the broiler and broil until the skins are lightly charred, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove the tomatoes from the oven and set aside.

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

8 ounces cherry tomatoes, halved

2 whole mackerel fillets, bones removed

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 thick slices sourdough bread

5. On another rimmed baking sheet, place the mackerel fillets. Using a sharp knife, gently score just the skin of the fillets (see page 290); this helps prevent the fillets from curling. Place the fillets under the broiler and broil until the skin is crispy and the fillets reach an internal temperature of 140°F or are cooked through, 4 to 5 minutes.

6. Heat the olive oil over medium heat, then add the sourdough. Toast until slightly browned and crisp on both sides, 1 to 2 minutes per side.

7. Spread some of the mayonnaise mixture on each piece of toast, then place a mackerel fillet on top, followed by the charred cherry tomatoes and some pickled shallots.

After a shore dive in Durban where the water is crazy murky and shark infested (a hammer head actually munched on our buoy), there was no way I was going to waste the kingfish we’d caught just because it had a reputation of being baitfish and not tasting as good as other species. As it turns out, stuffing and baking it in puff pastry fixes everything. This is the perfect recipe for fish that need a little more love in the flavor and texture departments.

Mini Kingfish Wellingtons with Mustard-Tarragon Stuffing and Beurre Blanc

SERVES 4

2 (17.3-ounce) packages puff pastry

1 cup chopped portobello mushrooms

2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

2 garlic cloves, peeled

1 teaspoon kosher salt 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Remove the puff pastry packages from the freezer and thaw on a countertop for 15 minutes.

2. In a mini food processor, combine the mushrooms, tarragon, mustard, garlic, salt, and pepper. Pulse until the mushrooms are finely chopped.

3. In a small sauté pan set over medium-high heat, heat the olive oil, then add the mushroom mixture from the food processor. Cook until there is no longer any liquid in the pan, then remove the pan from the heat.

1 tablespoon olive oil 4 kingfish tournedos (see page 46)

2 large eggs, whisked 1 recipe Beurre Blanc (see page 89)

4. Place a quarter of the mushroom mixture into the middle of a tournedo (see page 290), then wrap the tournedo in a sheet of puff pastry. Repeat with the remaining tournedos.

5. Use a pastry brush to brush whisked egg over the top of the puff pastry. Place the tournedos on a baking sheet a couple of inches apart.

6. Bake the tournedos for 25 to 30 minutes, or until the puff pastry is golden brown. While they bake, prepare the beurre blanc and keep warm over low heat, uncovered, until the Wellingtons are ready to serve. Pour the beurre blanc over the Wellingtons and serve immediately, while hot.

1/2 cup dry white wine

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons minced shallot

Beurre Blanc

MAKES 1 CUP

1/2 cup (1 stick) cold unsalted butter, cut into small cubes

1 tablespoon heavy cream 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. In a small saucepan set over medium heat, combine the wine, lemon juice, and shallot. Simmer until reduced by about three-quarters, 4 to 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to low, then add the butter a few cubes at a time, whisking constantly until melted.

2. Add the heavy cream, salt, and pepper, and keep whisking until the sauce has a thick, creamy texture. Pour the sauce over the Wellingtons and serve immediately.

Bahamas

It was in this paradise-like archipelago in the Atlantic that I discovered I wasn’t the city girl I had always imagined myself to be (I’d dreamed my whole life of living in a pent house in New York City) and that I took great pleasure living off almost nothing while completely surrounded by nature. Most people associate the Bahamas with luxury hotels and millionaires’ villas. However, if you travel beyond the major tourist centers like Nassau, you’ll discover hundreds of smaller islands, most of them deserted. Among these are the Bimini islands, which are only an hour from Miami by boat but may as well be worlds away. I decided to move to the Bahamas because I felt drawn to island life. At first, I was apprehensive about living there, alone and destitute, but once I settled in, I was surprised by how well the simplicity of life there suited me. For one year, my days passed quietly, divided between a few hours of work in the morning and a bit of fish ing in the afternoon. The seabeds were some of the most beautiful I’ve seen anywhere on the planet and were teeming with fish and shellfish, including lobsters and conchs (a large shellfish whose flesh is delicious in salads). At the end of the day, I would feast on my catch, which was about all there was to eat anyway. A boat brought food once a week and was pretty much stocked only with frozen chicken. And even though the Bahamas has had an extensive cultivation of fruits and vegetables, they were all exported to the United States. The locals ate simply, and I was happy to follow their lead. To this day

I dream of having a house in the Bahamas. It is nothing short of heaven and could take on Bora Bora and the Maldives any day.

One of the greatest lessons I learned in the Bahamas is that lobster can be eaten raw. And not only is it possible, but it’s delicious. When I lived there, I was eating so many lobsters that I needed to find another way to prepare them besides over a wood fire (first-world problems, I know). I thought back to the time I had lobster tartare in a fancy Italian restau rant in London and decided to make it for myself. To call it a success is an understatement.

This finished dish (seen on pages 90-91) is as delicious with Northeastern lobster as it is with spiny lobster, or langouste.

Lobster Tartare with Fried Capers and Sun-Dried Tomato Vinaigrette

SERVES 4

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 shallot, minced 2 tablespoons minced fresh chives

3 large sun-dried tomatoes in oil, minced 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1. In small mixing bowl, add the olive oil, shallot, chives, sun-dried tomatoes, lemon juice, mustard, salt, pepper, and parsley. Whisk to combine, then set aside.

2. Add the vegetable oil to a small frying pan set over medium-high heat. Once the oil is hot and lightly smoking, add the capers and fry until slightly crispy, 2 to 3 minutes. (Make sure your capers are dried well on paper towels before adding to the hot

2 tablespoons vegetable oil, for frying

1/4 cup capers, drained and thoroughly dried

1 pound raw lobster tails, preferably Maine or spiny lobster, meat removed from the shell and minced

pan, as any residual water will make the hot oil splatter.) Once the capers are crispy, remove them from the oil using a slotted spoon and transfer them to a paper-towel-lined plate to drain.

3. To serve, spread the minced lobster on a serving platter in a thin layer. Using a large spoon, drizzle the vinaigrette over the lobster meat, then top with the crispy capers.

During the winter in the Bahamas, when it was too windy and cold to dive, I could still keep myself plenty busy with rod-and-reel fishing. This just so happens to be the way to catch one of the fastest, most deadly toothed fish in the ocean: the wahoo. Like swordfish, it’s a fish that, if overcooked, can dry out and taste, well, not very good. That’s why I love a tataki prep aration for it, or searing it on the outside but leaving it raw or pink in the middle.

Wahoo Tataki with Herb Sauce and Cucumber

SERVES 4

3 Lebanese cucumbers, sliced 1/8 inch thick

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives

2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon

Zest of 1 lemon, plus 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

11/2 pounds raw wahoo fillets

1. In a colander, sprinkle the cucumbers with salt and let sit for 30 minutes.

2. In a small bowl, add 2 tablespoons of the parsley, the chives, tarragon, lemon zest, lemon juice, and olive oil. Whisk to combine. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

3. Using a clean paper towel, gently remove any water from both sides of the wahoo fillets. In a large sauté pan set over high heat, add the vegetable oil. Once the oil is lightly smoking, add the wahoo fillets and sear on both sides until a nice crust is

2 tablespoons vegetable oil, for frying

1/4 cup roasted sunflower seeds

formed but the fillets are not cooked all the way through, 30 to 45 seconds per side. (You want about 1/8 inch of the wahoo cooked on each side.) Remove the fillets from the pan and transfer them to a paper-towel-lined plate. Let the fillets rest for 5 minutes, then cut the fillets against the grain into 1/2 -inch slices.

4. Place the cucumbers in a serving dish and top with the sliced wahoo. Drizzle the herb sauce on top and garnish with the remaining 2 tablespoons parsley and the sunflower seeds.

When I lived on a small island in the Bahamas, going to a sushi restaurant wasn’t an option. I did have access to amazing fresh fish, lobsters, conchs, and crabs, but after a long day of diving, the last thing I wanted to do was make immaculate little sushi rolls—even if I craved them so badly! One day, I decided to just throw all the ingredients normally used to make sushi onto a cutting board and assemble perfect sushi-like bites with my hands as I ate. It’s been one of my favorite ways to enjoy raw fish ever since. Plus, you can adapt it for any flavor enhancers. The orange zest is my secret ingredient—I love the way it gently perfumes the fish. Other fun additions are pineapple or mango, diced bell peppers, green onions, pome granate arils, and jalapeños.

NOTE: Yuzu, an Asian citrus fruit, is sold in jars in Asian markets or Asian food aisles. But if you can’t find it, lime juice will work just fine.

Messy Sushi Board

SERVES 4 TO 6

1/2 pound raw fish, such as snapper, amberjack, or hamachi

1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar

2 cups freshly cooked sushi rice

3 tablespoons yuzu juice or fresh lime juice

3 tablespoons soy sauce

1 teaspoon minced garlic

Zest of 1 orange

1 large shallot, thinly sliced

1. Cut the fish fillets against the grain into 1/4 -inchthick pieces (see page 290) and set aside.

2. In a bowl, fold 1/4 cup of the vinegar into the sushi rice and set aside.

3. In a small mixing bowl, add the yuzu juice, soy sauce, the remaining 1 tablespoon vinegar, the garlic, and the orange zest. Whisk everything until well combined.

1 small cucumber, thinly sliced

Fresh cilantro leaves, for garnish

2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds

2 (3.5-ounce) packages nori

4. Spread the seasoned sushi rice over a serving platter or a large charcuterie board. Arrange the sliced fish over the rice. Drizzle the sauce on top of the fish and garnish with the shallot, cucumber, cilantro, and sesame seeds.

5. Serve with halved nori sheets.

There are a few rumors about how the majestic but deadly and invasive lionfish made their way to the Caribbean. Some say they were accidentally carried away from their native habitat by the bilge pump of a big boat; others say they escaped from the Atlantis aquarium in Nas sau. Regardless of how they got there, they are there to stay. Unfortunately, the lionfish in this area have no natural predators and literally swallow everything in their path. They can eat up to five times their body weight and like to munch on fish eggs. In just five years, a single lion fish can kill an entire reef ecosystem. And if you’re stung by one of their poisonous spines, you’ll have throbbing pain for 24 to 48 hours and your hand will swell to look like Mickey Mouse’s glove. (I speak from personal experience.) The silver lining? They’re really tasty. Lionfish is excellent for ceviche, as cooked fillets, and when fried whole. With a pot of hot oil and a few toothpicks for nabbing bits of the juicy, buttery flesh, your guests will be impressed.

Whole Fried Lionfish with IPA Mayo

SERVES 4

2 cups canola oil

2 cups all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon garlic powder

1 tablespoon onion powder

1 tablespoon Bahama Mama spice mix (see page 73; optional)

1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 cup mayonnaise

1. In a Dutch oven set over medium-high heat, heat the oil to 350°F. (If you do not have a thermometer, heat until the oil just starts to smoke.)

2. While the oil is heating, add the flour, garlic powder, onion powder, spice mix (if using), and salt to a large bowl and mix well to combine.

3. In a small bowl, combine the mayonnaise and the IPA and whisk well.

2 tablespoons IPA beer 4 whole lionfish, cleaned and gutted

4. When the oil is up to temperature, dredge one lionfish in the flour mixture to fully coat the fish, then add it to the hot oil and fry until the outside is golden brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Repeat this process with the remaining lionfish.

5. Serve hot with the IPA mayo on the side.

Cape Verde

DAY 21

S Ã O VINCENTE, CAPE VERDE, AFRICA

Fatigue and hunger started to play on our collective mental health. With four weeks to make a documentary and only 150 euros left among four people, the local fish were our only form of currency. My three fellow travelers and I were making the film because we wanted to share with the world the true and pure lifestyle of spearfishing, so we were living it to the extreme. The four of us had set out to visit a small fishing village called São Vicente, where the nearest grocer would be miles away. Before leaving, we filled our suitcases with rice, pasta, and canned tuna. What we did not know, however, was that the island had no wood to burn, and gas was a rare commodity. Since we couldn’t light a fire, we had to eat whatever fish we caught raw for an entire week. We also needed to ration our food. Lunch would be a can of tuna shared four ways, and dinner would be the catch of the day. Raw. Ceviche and sashimi can certainly be delicacies, but usually with an acid such as citrus or vinegar to help “cook” the fish. Nothing will teach you more about yourself than having no possessions and no way out of a pre carious situation. Your true personality comes out when you’re starving.

And yet, in Cape Verde, if you give a man a few fish, no matter how hungry he may be, he’ll share everything he has with his friends and family. When a local man lent us a small space to live for free, my own personal journey was quickly met with an intensive reappraisal of my sense of community.

After that first week, with our provisions running dangerously low, we gambled our last cents on hiring a boat. The locals agreed to take us out at cost, and in exchange, we promised to share the profits from the fish we would catch and sell at the market. We knew that big fish are around a couple days before and after a full moon (which coincided with our time there), so this was our chance to catch something we could trade in exchange for supplies from the villagers. We jumped into the water with our stomachs gurgling, eager for some action. No fish to be seen. Dammit. My partner, the deeper diver of the two of us, announced he was going to take a drop to 120 feet to see if he could bring up some fish. He came back to the surface holding a spectacular 40-pound amberjack. The profit from this fish would pay for the boat and even leave us with a bit of spare change to buy bread from a local baker. It was a good day for us all.

Mi-cuit is French for “half-cooked,” which, for fish like trout, is the sweet spot for the best texture and flavor. In this case, you get tender flesh with nice, crispy skin. It’s a simple prepa ration that can be used with many types of fish, including jack, snapper, salmon, wahoo, and striped bass, and if you’re missing some ingredients, no worries. You can always just go with salt, pepper, and a bit of lemon juice.

Trout Mi-Cuit

SERVES 4

4 (1/2 -pound) trout fillets, skin on

Kosher salt

1/2 cup regular plain cream cheese, room temperature

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.

1/2 cup crème fraîche 1 teaspoon ground sumac 1 teaspoon chili powder

Zest of 1 lemon

3 tablespoons chopped fresh chives

2 tablespoons canola oil

2. Sprinkle the trout skin with salt and let sit for 15 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, add the cream cheese, crème fraîche, sumac, chili powder, lemon zest, and 2 tablespoons of the chives. Stir to combine well.

4. In a medium ovenproof pan set over medium-high heat, add the oil. Once the oil is lightly smoking, add the fillets to the pan, skin-side

down. Gently pressing the fish with a spatula, sear the skin until crispy, 3 to 4 minutes. Without flipping the fish, transfer the pan to the oven to finish cooking, 3 to 4 minutes. (The fish should look opaque on the outside but still be raw in the middle.)

5. Divide the cream cheese mixture among 4 plates, topping each with 1 trout fillet. Garnish with the remaining 1 tablespoon chives.

When I was in Cape Verde, my favorite part of the day was the evening, when we’d eat with the film crew and the locals. Even though I didn’t speak Portuguese, it almost didn’t matter when we would all sit together, sharing a meal, simply enjoying one another’s company. One of my favorite dishes from that time was empadão, a Portuguese specialty, which I’ve blended here with some inspiration from a Québécois potpie. The result is the ultimate feelgood dish with a comforting filling and topped with a melt-in-your-mouth puff pastry crust.

Cobia Potpie

SERVES 6

2 tablespoons cornstarch

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 small onion, diced

1 carrot, diced into 1/4 -inch cubes

1 celery rib, diced into 1/4 -inch cubes

1 cup peeled, cubed potatoes (1/2 -inch cubes)

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F.

1 cup frozen peas

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1/2 cup Fish Stock (see page 70) or chicken stock

1 cup whole milk

1/2 cup heavy whipping cream

1/4 cup dry white wine

Zest of 1 lemon

1 pound skinless cobia, diced into 1/2 -inch cubes

1/2 pound small or extra-small shrimp, deveined and chopped 1 sheet puff pastry

1 large egg yolk, whisked

2. In a small bowl, whisk the cornstarch with 2 tablespoons water to combine. Set aside.

3. In a large sauté pan set over medium-high heat, add the butter. When the butter has melted, add the onion, carrot, celery, and potatoes to the pan. Sauté until the vegetables are tender and almost fully cooked, 10 to 12 minutes, then stir in the peas. Sprinkle the flour on top and sauté for 1 minute. Add the stock, milk, cream, wine, and lemon zest, mix well, and bring to a boil.

4. Once the mixture has come to a boil, remove the pan from the heat and whisk in the cornstarch slurry.

5. Combine the cubed fish and the shrimp in a 9 -inch square baking dish and top with the vegetable mixture. Place a sheet of puff pastry on top of the filling.

6. Using a pastry brush, brush the puff pastry with the egg yolk. Use a paring knife to make three small slits in the puff pastry.

7. Place the potpie in the oven to bake for about 45 minutes, or until the crust is golden brown.

8. Let the potpie rest for about 10 minutes before serving.

When I was a kid, my parents both worked late, but my dad was in charge of feeding my sister and me on weekdays, and fish puttanesca was one of his signature dishes. Years later,

I asked him for the recipe for his intoxicating combination of garlicky tomato sauce, olives, and capers. I’ve updated it just a little, but the result is very much true to what I loved so much about it. And the best part is that all you need to do is throw the ingredients in a baking dish, cook it off, and serve with rice. Simple and delicious.

Fish Puttanesca

SERVES 4

4 (9-ounce) white fish fillets (literally any fish fillet will work)

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

4 garlic cloves, sliced

2 teaspoons crushed red pepper flakes

1 (2-ounce) can anchovy fillets

1 shallot, sliced

2 tablespoons drained capers

1/2 cup pitted and roughly chopped kalamata olives

1/2 cup dry white wine

1 (28-ounce) can whole plum tomatoes

2 teaspoons sugar

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Pat the fish fillets dry with a paper towel.

2. In a medium ovenproof frying pan set over medium-high heat, heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. When the oil is lightly smoking, add the garlic, 1 teaspoon of the red pepper flakes, the anchovies, and the shallot and fry until the garlic is golden and the anchovies are almost completely dissolved, about 5 minutes. Stir in the capers, olives, and wine and let everything simmer for 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes, sugar, and oregano and simmer for another 10 minutes, gently breaking the tomatoes with the back of a wooden spoon to pop them open as they cook.

Handful of fresh oregano leaves

1 lemon, thinly sliced

2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) unsalted butter

Handful of fresh flat-leaf parsley or basil leaves, roughly chopped, for garnish

3. Place the fish fillets in the pan, cover them with the tomato sauce, top with the slices of lemon, and bake in the oven for 15 minutes, until the fish is fully cooked through. Before serving, stir in the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil and 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes and the butter until it melts, then sprinkle with the parsley.

The key to a good sashimi lies in two things: thinly slicing the fish and using fresh, simple ingredients. (See page 290.) That said, fish doesn’t have to be fresh to make excellent sashimi. In fact, most countries require restaurants to freeze their fish before serving it raw in order to kill any parasites. When I use frozen fish (and yes, I sometimes use frozen fish!), I like to defrost it, pat it as dry as possible, then wrap it in paper towels and plastic wrap for 24 hours. This removes any excess moisture and results in a sashimi that doesn’t have a fishy or frozen taste.

Sashimi with Ginger and Soy

SERVES 4 TO 6

1/2 cup soy sauce

1/2 cup apple cider vinegar

1/4 cup pure maple syrup

1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1/2 teaspoon Bahama Mama spice mix (see page 73) or sweet paprika

1 teaspoon dried or 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme

1. In a medium saucepan set over medium-high heat, add the soy sauce, vinegar, maple syrup, ginger, garlic, spice mix, thyme, and sesame seeds, then stir to combine. Let the mixture reduce until there is about 1/2 cup left, 20 to 25 minutes. (Make sure to check the reduction at regular intervals so it doesn’t reduce too much during cooking.)

1 tablespoon sesame seeds (black look more dramatic, but either white or black will do)

1 pound raw fish fillets, such as hamachi, amberjack, or snapper 1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives, for garnish

2. Slice the fish fillets into 1/2 -inch slices. (See page 287.)

3. Arrange the fish slices on a platter, top with the reduction sauce, and garnish with the chives.

California

California is actually one of my least favorite places to dive, thanks in large part to its shark-infested waters. Even though attacks are rare, I always just feel . . . observed. Like someone (or something) is watching. And it doesn’t help that I once encountered both a great white and a mako shark in a single dive there. But this state still ranks up there as one of my favorites to visit. The weather is usually good, Californians have a deep appreciation of the ocean, I get to satisfy my itch to live in a big city while also indulging my hippy-dippy side, and there’s no shortage of excellent fish like tuna, white bass, and yellowtail (or hama chi, as it’s often called in Japanese restaurants). In between business meetings in Los Angeles and San Diego, I often take the opportunity to go diving and stock up on tuna for the year.

If you haven’t tried packing a whole fish in salt and baking it, you are in for a treat. The salt crust creates an “oven,” so the fish is basted in its own juice as it cooks. The result is flaky, super-moist fish that’s so delicious, it doesn’t need more than good olive oil, lemon juice, flaky sea salt, and cracked black pepper.

Salt-Crusted Whole Fish

SERVES 2

1 (2-pound) whole fish, such as sea bass, snapper, salmon, or trout, cleaned and gutted

4 fresh rosemary sprigs

4 fresh thyme sprigs

1 lemon, sliced

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F.

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, sliced into tablespoon-sized pieces

7 large egg whites

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

11/2 cups kosher salt

2. Stuff the belly of the fish with the rosemary, thyme, lemon slices, and butter.

3. Place the egg whites in a large bowl and, using an electric mixer on high speed, beat until stiff peaks have formed, 7 to 8 minutes. Reduce the speed to medium, then gradually add in the flour and salt and beat until well combined.

4. Spoon a quarter of the salted egg white mixture, enough to cover the bottom of the fish, onto a baking sheet, then place the fish on top

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon fresh oregano leaves

6 fresh flat-leaf parsley sprigs, minced

of the mixture. Cover the fish entirely with the remaining salted egg white mixture. Bake for about 30 minutes, or about 2 minutes for every 3 ounces of fish, until the salt crust is golden brown.

5. While the fish is baking, make the sauce. In a small bowl, add the olive oil, lemon juice, oregano, and parsley and mix until well combined.

6. Once the fish is finished cooking, let it rest for about 5 minutes, then break the salt crust with the back of a knife and remove the fish. Drizzle the lemon-herb mixture over the fish and serve.

After diving for hours off the coast of Monterey with my friends in what my Florida-living butt can only describe as freezing-cold water, we decided to have a picnic at the beach with our catches. With about six sweaters on, I cooked the fish heads while my friend Colin made us one of the best panzanellas I’d ever had. Traditionally, panzanella is hunks of slightly dried-out bread that are liberally dressed with vinaigrette and tossed with ripe tomatoes and fresh herbs. But the addition of warm pieces of fish takes it to the next level. I also added grapefruit as a nod to California citrus and so the acidity could balance the sweetness of the tomatoes.

Snapper Panzanella with Grapefruit

SERVES 4

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter

4 small snapper fillets (about 7 ounces each)

4 (3/4 -inch-thick) sourdough bread slices, torn into 1-inch pieces

4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.

8 ounces cherry tomatoes, halved

6 ounces Greek feta, crumbled

1/2 medium red onion, thinly sliced 1 grapefruit, supremed

2 Lebanese cucumbers, thinly sliced

2 fresh oregano sprigs, leaves picked

1 tablespoon drained capers

Juice of 1/2 grapefruit Juice of 1/2 lemon

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons roughly chopped fresh basil

2. In a large sauté pan set over medium-high heat, add the butter. Once the butter has melted, add the snapper fillets to the pan and cook on both sides until cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Remove the pan from the heat and set aside.

3. Place the sourdough pieces on a rimmed baking sheet and toss with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Place the baking sheet in the oven and bake until the croutons are golden brown, 10 to 12 minutes.

4. Use your hands to break the fillets into pieces, and place them in a medium serving bowl. Add the croutons, tomatoes, feta, red onion, grapefruit, cucumbers, oregano, and capers. Stir to combine.

5. In a small or medium bowl, whisk together the grapefruit juice, lemon juice, the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, and the mustard.

6. Drizzle the dressing over the salad, give everything a gentle toss, and garnish with the basil.

I discovered salt-block cooking in California, and I’ve been obsessed with it ever since. The principle is simple: In the oven or on the grill, you heat a thick slab of salt. Fish (or meat) can be seared directly on top. The salt draws out moisture from the fish, which helps give the fish the perfect crispy sear while also seasoning it. You can find salt blocks or planks pretty easily in culinary supply shops or online. (See also page 52.)

Salt Block Seared Fish

SERVES 2

1 Himalayan salt block (see Headnote)

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

1 teaspoon very finely minced ginger (minced into a paste)

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Place the salt block in the oven and preheat to 250°F.

2. Heat the salt block progressively, starting at 250°F for 20 minutes, then increase the heat to 350°F for 20 minutes, 400°F for 10 minutes, and finally 425°F for 10 minutes. Carefully remove the hot block from the oven and place it on a non–heat absorbing material like cork or silicone.

12 ounces firm white fish of your choice, such as snapper, amberjack, cobia, salmon, trout, or mahi mahi, thinly sliced

3. In a small bowl, combine the soy sauce, lime juice, ginger, salt, and pepper and mix well.

4. Working in batches, take a few slices of the fish, place them on top of the hot salt brick, and cook to the desired doneness. (I like mine rare, so a minute on each side is enough for me.) Use chopsticks to turn the slices over and fully cook the other side, then dip them into the sauce and enjoy.

Fish dip is a great way to use fish that is less popular or less tasty on its own. I like to use king mackerel, even though most people throw it back into the water or use it as bait. While some find its dark gray color off-putting, and although it has a stronger taste than most basic white fish like snapper and bass, I think it’s wonderfully flavorful and oily. It’s perfect for this lighter, tangier take on a traditional fish dip, which swaps out cream cheese for crème fraîche. Throw in some tater tots (or potato chips) and caviar, and you have a fun play on a casual picnic offering.

Tater Tots

with Smoked Mackerel Crème Fraîche and Caviar

SERVES 6

1 (32-ounce) bag frozen tater tots

8 ounces smoked mackerel, skin removed

1/4 cup crème fraîche

1/2 bunch fresh flat-leaf parsley, leaves only

Juice and zest of 1 lemon 3 tablespoons chopped shallot (2 small or 1 large)

2 tablespoons minced fresh chives

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1. Cook the tater tots according to the package directions.

2. While the tater tots are cooking, combine the smoked mackerel, crème fraîche, parsley, lemon juice, lemon zest, shallot, 1 tablespoon of the chives, the salt, and the pepper in the bowl of a food processor and process until smooth.

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 cup MSC-certified sustainable caviar

3. Transfer the dip to a serving bowl and garnish with the remaining 1 tablespoon chives and the caviar. Serve with the tater tots.

Florida

It is no coincidence that I headed to Florida after I left London: there is fishing, and a lot of it. Yes, Miami was also strategically located for future travel, but I was drawn mostly by the coastal culture of the state—and the warm sunny weather didn’t hurt, either. Every one fishes in Florida, and because the practice is so well regulated and there are guide lines to protect the diversity of its many species, there is no shortage of fish, and the fishing is always good! I was pleasantly surprised to find that when the coast is well man aged, recreational fishing can be done without endangering biodiversity.

In Florida, I discovered species of fish that are usually impossible to find at the grocery store because they aren’t conducive to mass commercial fishing. There was hogfish and grouper, whose tender flesh melts in your mouth; wahoo, with its delicate, succulent flesh; and lionfish, which are even tastier when you consider that every lion fish on your plate is one less destroying the local ecosystem. If I hadn’t come across these species underwater, I would probably never have known that they existed.

In the States, many people’s general knowledge of fish is pretty limited. We, under standably, rely on what is stocked at the grocery store, which is often imported and limited to played-out fish like cod, tuna, sea bass, or salmon. Many people never catch their own fish or know the people who do. While in some places, like Florida, there’s a rich culture that connects people with the sea and the food that comes from it, that’s the exception rather than the rule. Luckily, as you read about on page 49, there are a number of ways to move beyond these limitations and experience new species, flavors, and textures. Don’t be shy about asking your fishmonger questions, and definitely don’t be afraid to go outside your comfort zone. Your new favorite recipes await!

A ceviche is my favorite way to end a dive day because it showcases the naked flavor of a fish, and it’s beyond easy to make, even when you’re bone-tired. Also, the beauty of a ceviche is that you can put (almost) any ingredients you like in it. There are just a couple of secrets to know: (1) all the pieces of fish should be about the same size so that they all marinate equally, and (2) make sure to add the lime juice mixture no more than 15 minutes before serving—you don’t want to over-marinate the fish.

Baby Scallop Ceviche with Kohlrabi and Pineapple

SERVES 4

1 pound raw baby scallops

1 cup chopped pineapple, diced into 1/4 -inch pieces

1/2 cup fresh lime juice

1/4 cup pineapple juice

Zest of 1 lime Zest of 1 orange

1 tablespoon hot sauce, such as Tabasco 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1. In a large mixing bowl, combine the scallops, pineapple, lime juice, pineapple juice, lime zest, orange zest, hot sauce, salt, and 1 tablespoon of the cilantro. Gently mix everything together until the baby scallops are evenly coated in the liquid.

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

1 large kohlrabi bulb, julienned (1 to 11/2 cups)

2. Let the ceviche marinate in the refrigerator for up to 15 minutes.

3. Place the kohlrabi on a serving platter and spoon the ceviche on top. Garnish with the remaining 1 tablespoon cilantro.

As most cooks know, it’s the bones that give meat flavor. The same goes for fish. After years of throwing fish heads overboard, oblivious to the fact that I was chucking away the best part, I finally saw the light . . . by shoving a big fish head into the oven. The meat was rich, tender, and full of concentrated fresh fish flavor. Today, I’d choose a fish head over a fish fillet (seriously). Big fish, small fish, no discrimination—all heads are good. Put them in the oven, on the grill, or even in the smoker. Just know that if you come across a fish head, you have gold in your hands.

NOTE: For more information about how to source fish heads, see page 42. If you have time, you can brine the heads overnight in a solution of a half cup kosher salt to 4 cups water. Drain the heads well before slathering them in the olive oil and spices.

Grouper Heads with Ponzu Butter

SERVES 4 TO 6

2 small grouper heads

1/4 cup olive oil

1 tablespoon garlic powder

1 tablespoon onion powder

1 tablespoon kosher salt

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.

1 tablespoon Bahama Mama spice mix (see page 73)

1 teaspoon cayenne pepper (optional)

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2. Place the grouper heads on a baking sheet and, using your hands, rub them with the olive oil to fully coat.

3. In a small bowl, combine the garlic powder, onion powder, salt, spice mix, cayenne (if using), and black pepper and mix well. Sprinkle it over the grouper heads.

4. Place the seasoned grouper heads in the oven and bake for 20 to 30 minutes, until the meat is fully cooked and shreds off easily.

1/2 cup ponzu sauce (see page 71) or store-bought

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted

1 tablespoon white miso paste

5. Meanwhile, in a small saucepan set over medium heat, add the ponzu sauce, butter, and miso paste. Whisk well to combine, creating a smooth mixture and fully dissolving the miso paste, 2 to 3 minutes. Reduce the heat to its lowest setting until ready to serve.

6. Transfer the grouper heads to a serving platter and use chopsticks to pick the meat out. Serve with ponzu butter on the side.

This recipe is another reason why the head is my favorite part of a grouper. A couple of years ago around Christmas, I went fishing a few days before my annual holiday party and caught two nice-sized groupers. There was so much meat in those heads that I had the idea of serv ing it as an appetizer. I wanted people to see what they were missing every time they left a fish head untouched on their plate in a restaurant, because it has a silky, fatty texture that is just mind-blowing and mild in flavor. I ended up serving the meat with tortilla chips and salsa, nachos-style, because who doesn’t love nachos?! It was such a success that all my friends have been pro–fish heads ever since.

Fish Head Nachos

SERVES 6 TO 8

2 big or 4 small fish heads (ask your fishmonger what they have on hand!)

1/4 cup olive oil

8 ounces cherry tomatoes, halved

Juice of 1 lime

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.

1 teaspoon fish sauce

1 teaspoon Bahama Mama spice mix (see page 73)

1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro

1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

2. Place the fish heads on a baking sheet and drizzle them with the olive oil, making sure they are fully coated. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until the meat is cooked through and shreds off easily.

3. While the heads are baking, make the salsa. In a large bowl, add the cherry tomatoes, lime juice, fish sauce, spice mix, cilantro, parsley, shallot, salt, and pepper and mix well to combine.

1 shallot, minced

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 bag tortilla chips of your choice

4. When the heads are fully cooked, remove them from the oven, let cool slightly, then pick the meat off with chopsticks or your fingers.

5. Place the chips on a serving platter, sprinkle the fish head meat over the chips, and top with the salsa.

In the Gulf of Mexico, off the coast of Florida, we have the chance to catch some pretty big amberjack (they legally have to be bigger than 4 feet in order to be harvested). And big fish means big ribs. I experimented with preparing the ribs as I would a rack of pork or beef ribs: slathered in spices, seared, and finished in the oven. Let’s just say this recipe now gets pulled out anytime I’m lucky enough to catch an amberjack.

NOTE: When breaking down your fish for the ribs, you can fillet the fish a bit roughly in order to leave more meat on the bones.

Amberjack Rack of Ribs

SERVES 2

1/4 cup olive oil

1 rack amberjack ribs

2 tablespoons Bahama Mama spice mix (see page 73)

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.

2. Drizzle the olive oil over the rack of ribs and season them with the spice mix.

3. Set a large cast-iron skillet over high heat. Once the skillet is hot, add the rack of ribs and sear both sides until golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Transfer the skillet to the oven to finish cooking for 6 to 8 minutes, until cooked all the way through.

What is fish milt? Well, it is, err . . . sperm. It’s a delicacy in Japan, and mangrove snappers, which are an abundant fish in the Gulf of Mexico, are full of it during wintertime. When har vested from the fish during the colder weather, it has a firm texture, like butter. And once heated, it has an unctuous, almost foie gras–like fattiness with rich flavor. Don’t let precon ceived ideas stop you from trying it. Milt is delicious, and that’s what she (me) said.

NOTE: For information about sourcing milt, see page 45.

Fish Milt Bites

SERVES 1

1 cup canola oil

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

1 large egg, beaten

1 cup bread crumbs 5 ounces cold fish milt, cut into 1-inch pieces

1. In a small frying or sauté pan set over mediumhigh heat, heat the oil until lightly smoking.

2. Using 3 separate bowls, add the flour to one bowl, the egg to another, and the bread crumbs to the third.

Kosher salt, for sprinkling

3. Dip the milt first in the flour, then in the egg, then in the bread crumbs. Gently place the coated milt in the frying pan. Sauté the milt until golden brown on both sides, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Once the milt is cooked, remove it from the pan and quickly sprinkle it with kosher salt. Serve immediately, while hot!

When I first made this recipe, it was because I had been asked to cook with shark, which I’d done only one other time. I realized that swordfish would work, as it’s similar in texture and how it likes to be prepared. Swordfish, like shark, can be tough if not cooked properly and requires soaking in milk for a few hours (or overnight) in order to tenderize the meat and remove the slight ammonia taste that these big species can sometimes have. I love the idea of using fish in such a classic breakfast dish. Just be warned: this makes one big, hearty breakfast, so I suggest sharing. (No judgment if you don’t; I’ve taken down whole plates of this myself!)

NOTE: Heads-up! This recipe calls for soaking the swordfish overnight, so be sure to give yourself enough time to prep. Also, if you don’t want to make the hollandaise yourself, feel free to use a store-bought sauce. If you’d prefer to not include the pancetta, heat 1 table spoon of neutral cooking oil before cooking the fish.

Swordfish Eggs Benedict with Dill Hollandaise

SERVES 4

2 large swordfish steaks, each halved

2 cups whole milk

1 pound cherry tomatoes, halved

1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill

1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives

1 small shallot, minced

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

8 ounces diced pancetta (optional, see Note)

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Place the swordfish fillets and the milk in a glass container, cover, and marinate in the refrigerator for 12 to 24 hours.

2. The next day, make the salsa. In a medium bowl, add the cherry tomatoes, dill, parsley, chives, shallot, and lime juice. Toss everything to combine well.

1 teaspoon white wine vinegar or apple cider vinegar

4 large eggs

4 English muffins

1 recipe Dill Hollandaise Sauce (page 134)

3. Line a plate with paper towels and place it near the stove. In a large skillet set over medium-high heat, add the pancetta (if using) and cook until just crispy, about 5 minutes. Remove the pancetta from the skillet, reserving the rendered fat in the pan, and transfer to the paper-towel-lined plate.

4. Drain the soaked swordfish fillets and pat them dry with paper towels, then season with salt and pepper on each side. Place them in the same skillet you cooked the pancetta in and set it over mediumhigh heat. Cook the swordfish until golden brown on each side and cooked through, about 4 minutes per side, or when an internal temperature of 130°F is reached.

5. Set a large pot filled a quarter of the way with water over high heat. Line a plate with paper towels and place it near the stove. Once the water has come to a boil, reduce the heat to a simmer. Add the vinegar to the pot. Crack 1 of the eggs into a small bowl, then gently pour the egg into the simmering water. Repeat with the remaining eggs. Poach the eggs for 3 to 4 minutes, making sure not to overcook them; you want runny yolks.

6. While the eggs are cooking, cut the English muffins in half and toast them.

7. Use a slotted spoon to remove the eggs from the water and transfer them to the paper-towel-lined plate. (The whites may be loose enough to drip through the slots of the spoon.)

8. Arrange 2 of the English muffin halves side by side on 4 plates, cut-side up. Lay 1 piece of the fish over the open muffin halves (the pieces are big enough to cover both). Top each piece of fish with 2 of the poached eggs, followed by a generous drizzling of hollandaise and about 2 tablespoons of the salsa.

Dill hollandaise sauce

MAKES ABOUT 11/2 CUPS

6 large egg yolks

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper

1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill

Pinch of cayenne pepper

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, melted and hot

1. Add the egg yolks, lemon juice, mustard, salt, white pepper, dill, and cayenne to a blender. Blend on low speed for about 10 seconds.

2. Raise the speed to medium, then slowly drizzle in the hot butter. (Make sure not to pour in a lot of butter at once or go too fast, or you will break the sauce—which is fancy for “it will get really greasy and unusable.”) Blend until the sauce is fully emulsified, then serve immediately, while warm.

We’ve all heard rumors that a certain fast-food chain uses chicken trims to make their famous nuggets. That gave me the idea to try something similar with fish, using parts of the fish that are often (or always) thrown away. The head, collar, and belly hold an insane amount of meat, and unlike chicken, these are actually even more delicious than the fillet meat (although if you’ve ever had chicken neck, oh my, you know it’s delicious). And it’s time we start integrating these parts into our dining culture, because if you’re shocked that the world throws away millions of chicken drumsticks and wings every day, now you know how I feel about all the ridiculously good fish parts being tossed. Sacrilege, I tell you.

And, as if this weren’t a good-enough argument already (uh-oh, the lawyer in me is wak ing up—RUN), we can also use what fisherman call baitfish or trash fish. These aren’t the popular kids in school (see what I did there?), like tuna, cod, or swordfish, so they’re either used as bait or thrown back if they’re caught. There’s nothing wrong with these fish; in fact, I’d argue that they’re a more sustainable food source because they’re not overfished. When dipped in batter and slathered in sweet and spicy BBQ sauce, it’s a win-win meal made out of fish bits that would otherwise be thrown to the sharks.

Fish Trim Nuggets with Habanero-Apricot BBQ Sauce

SERVES 4

1 pound raw fish trimmings, such as belly or head meat, and/or other scraps

3 large eggs

2 tablespoons cornstarch

1 tablespoon garlic powder

1 teaspoon dried tarragon

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Using a meat grinder, run the raw fish trimmings through the grinder with the smallest die. (Alternatively, you can finely mince with a knife.)

2. In a large bowl, add the ground fish, 1 of the eggs, the cornstarch, garlic powder, tarragon, salt, and pepper. Use your hands to thoroughly blend the ingredients.

11/2 cups panko bread crumbs

2 cups canola oil

1 recipe Habanero-Apricot BBQ Sauce (page 137)

3. Measure 2 tablespoons of the fish mixture and shape it into a nugget. Set it on a plate or a baking sheet, then repeat with the remaining mixture.

4. Place the remaining 2 eggs in a shallow dish and whisk them together. In another shallow dish, add the panko. Take a nugget and dredge it first in the

egg, then in panko, making sure to fully coat it. Repeat with the remaining nuggets.

5. In a medium cast-iron skillet set over mediumhigh heat, heat the oil to 350°F. (If you do not have a thermometer, heat the oil until it just starts to smoke.) Line a plate with paper towels and set aside.

6. Working in batches of 12, add the breaded nuggets to the oil and fry until golden brown and cooked through, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer the fried nuggets to the paper-towel-lined plate and repeat with the remaining nuggets. Serve the nuggets hot with the BBQ sauce on the side.

habanero-Apricot BBQ sauce

MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS

2 cups ketchup

1/2 cup apple cider vinegar

1/4 cup unpacked dark brown sugar

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon Bahama Mama spice mix (see page 73)

1 habanero, stemmed, seeded, and minced

1/4 cup apricot jam

In a large saucepan set over medium-high heat, combine all the ingredients and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes. Let cool, and serve immediately, or store in the the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

France

Part of me is inextricably linked to France; it is my father’s country. As a child, I spent all my summers in Charente, in southwestern France, with my grandmother, for whom cooking was a religion. She was the one who taught me to appreciate fresh produce and who inspired me to love “unusual” foods: raw mussels dipped in vinaigrette, snails, veal tongue stuffed with minced meat, liver pâté, and fish head soup. (The only thing she never managed to convince me to like was pork intestines!) She and I loved going to the markets and chatting with the producers and the fish and vegetable sellers. From time to time, we would go to Royan, a seaside town on the Atlantic coast, to get seafood platters. One of my father’s best friends was an oyster farmer there, and he often invited us to his shack on the water, where we would taste his freshly harvested oysters or clams—the first oysters and clams I ever had. I always loved the simple and raw nature of tasting these foods that had been cultivated with so much love and care. I think that’s what I miss most about France when I’m away from it: the closeness to prod ucts and producers. The dishes in this chapter celebrate that relationship and serve as a reminder that we can find this connectedness no matter where we live.

My French grandmother introduced me to seafood salad by serving me raw mussels tossed with vinaigrette. While this may sound strange, it is one of my favorite childhood food mem ories. The mix of briny shellfish with bright vinegar and grassy olive oil was just so good. I’ve re-created a similar flavor profile by combining tart sumac and sweet peas, which perfectly complement the mussels and calamari. Or you could just go granny gangster–style and toss the seafood with red wine vinegar and olive oil.

NOTE: If you’re wondering whether your mussels are fresh enough to be eaten raw, pinch the two sides of one shell together. If it stays closed, the mussel is alive, which is as fresh as it gets. (And if it doesn’t stay shut, toss it in the trash!)

Seafood Salad with Sumac and Sweet Peas

SERVES 4

1 teaspoon ground sumac

1 teaspoon whole-grain mustard

1/4 cup red wine vinegar

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 pound calamari rings, fresh or frozen

1 pound mussels, fresh and cleaned or canned and drained

1. In a small bowl, combine the sumac, mustard, vinegar, olive oil, salt, and pepper and whisk to make the vinaigrette.

2. In a large Dutch oven set over medium-high heat, add the calamari and 2 tablespoons of the vinaigrette. Cook the calamari until tender and opaque, about 8 minutes. Add the mussels, cover, and steam until they have opened, about 10 minutes. Discard any that haven’t opened after that time. Remove the pan from the heat.

1 cup fresh sweet peas, fibers removed and roughly sliced

1 celery heart, cut into 1/4 -inch cubes

1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint

Zest of 1/2 orange

3. Add the remaining vinaigrette along with the sweet peas, celery heart, mint, and orange zest. Stir to combine, give the flavors 2 to 3 minutes to meld, then serve.

Mussels in broth is always a good idea. Mussels are cheap, sustainable, super easy and quick to make (literally 10 minutes), impressive, fun to eat with guests, and really tasty. And the broth at the bottom of the bowl might be the most intoxicatingly delicious liquid gold you could ever sop up with bread. There are also several flavor combinations you can do this with. I picked my two favorites, which are very different from each other but equally deli cious. The first is fresh, creamy, and zesty—perfect for summer days. The second is buttery, rich, and spicy and ideal for winter.

Mussels, Two Ways

Way One

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 garlic cloves, minced

1/2 cup dry white wine

1 pound mussels, cleaned

6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) unsalted butter

1/4 cup crème fraîche

3 fresh dill sprigs, fronds and stems chopped

1 tablespoon fresh lemon zest Minced fresh flat-leaf parsley, for garnish

1. In a large pot set over medium-high heat, combine the olive oil and garlic. Cook just until the garlic becomes golden brown, about 2 minutes, then add the wine and let the mixture reduce for about 2 minutes.

2. Add the mussels and butter to the pot, cover, and cook until all the mussels are open, about 10 minutes. Discard any that have not opened after that time. Stir in the crème fraîche, dill, and lemon zest, and garnish with the parsley.

1/4 cup olive oil

Way Two

1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

2 garlic cloves, minced 1/4 cup cognac

6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) unsalted butter

1 pound mussels, cleaned Minced fresh flat-leaf parsley, for garnish

1. In a large pot set over medium-high heat, combine the olive oil, red pepper flakes, and garlic. Cook just until the garlic becomes golden brown, about 2 minutes. Add the cognac and cook, stirring occasionally, for another 2 minutes.

2. Add the butter and mussels, cover, and let cook until all the mussels are open, about 10 minutes. Discard any that haven’t opened after that time.

3. Garnish with the parsley before serving.

My grandmother had a famous fish soup that everybody loved. When she passed away, we found the little black book where she kept all her handwritten recipes. Luckily, the soup was included, along with her secret ingredients: pastis and cognac. Every time I make this, the aromas coming from the pot make me think of her.

Mamie’s Fish Soup with Rouille Toasts

SERVES 6 TO 8

3/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon olive oil

1 leek, white part only, chopped

2 small carrots

1 medium yellow onion, chopped

2 potatoes, cut into 1-inch cubes

2 tablespoons tomato paste

41/2 pounds fish meat, ideally a mix of fatty and lean fish, cut into roughly 2-inch cubes

2 tablespoons cognac

2 tablespoons pastis

1/2 cup dry white wine

2 medium tomatoes, roughly diced

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 bay leaves

3 fresh thyme sprigs

2 teaspoons kosher salt

1/2 baguette, sliced

3 garlic cloves, minced 1 large egg yolk

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon saffron

1/2 teaspoon paprika

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.

2. In a Dutch oven set over medium-high heat, combine 1/4 cup of the olive oil, the leek, carrots, onion, and potatoes and cook until the onions are tender and the potatoes are almost cooked through, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste, then add the fish and sauté until the fish starts to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the cognac, pastis, and wine and let the mixture reduce slightly for 3 to 4 minutes.

3. Add enough water to cover the fish by about 2 inches, then add the tomatoes, garlic, bay leaves, thyme, and salt. Let the mixture simmer on low heat for 30 minutes.

4. Working in batches if needed, carefully transfer the soup to a blender and blend until smooth.

(Alternatively, you may blend the soup in the pot using an immersion blender.)

5. Meanwhile, drizzle all the baguette slices except one with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and toast in the oven until golden brown, 5 to 6 minutes. Remove the bread and cut it into 1-inch cubes.

6. Make the rouille: Place the reserved slice of bread into the cooking liquid, let it sit until completely soaked, then squeeze into a small bowl. Add the soaked bread slice, along with the garlic, egg yolk, mustard, saffron, and paprika. Whisk well to combine, then slowly drizzle in the remaining 1/2 cup olive oil while whisking constantly to form an emulsion; the rouille should have the consistency of mayonnaise.

7. Spread the rouille over the toasts and serve with the soup.

One of my dad’s best friends bought a fishing cabin on the eastern coast of France, a region known for its incredible seafood. The cabin also had a natural pool right in front, where this friend collected all sorts of seafood, including clams. When we visited, he showed us how to gather clams and then cooked them in a cast-iron skillet on the grill with just a pat of butter, some minced garlic, and a handful of parsley. The juice from the clams mixed with the other ingredients to create a flavorful sauce, which we sopped up with slices of baguette. Years later, I still remember that meal with much fondness (and drool). And the best part is that clams, like mussels, are inexpensive, sustainable, and easy to find.

NOTE: To purge the clams of sand and other debris, soak them in a brine of 1/3 cup salt mixed with 1 gallon water for 30 minutes.

Grilled Clams with Butter, Garlic, and Parsley

SERVES 2 OR 3

2 pounds clams, purged (see Note)

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1/2 cup dry white wine

1 bunch fresh flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped, for garnish

1. In a large frying pan set over medium-high heat, combine about 1/2 cup water and the clams. Cover and let the clams steam until they open, 8 to 10 minutes. Discard any that haven’t opened after that time.

2. Add the butter, garlic, red pepper flakes, and wine to the pan with the clams. Let the liquid come to a boil, and boil until reduced by a third, about 2 minutes.

1 French-style baguette, cut into 1/2 -inch-thick slices, for serving

3. Transfer the clams and their cooking liquid to a serving bowl and garnish with the parsley. Serve with the baguette slices on the side.

When I was a teenager, I once had dinner at the house of one of my father’s childhood friends in Charente, which started with the friend nailing four mussels to a wooden board, then placing a pile of mussels around them. Having no clue what was happening, I watched him and my dad gather brown pine needles, scatter them over the mussels, and then set the whole thing on fire. I didn’t know at the time that they were preparing a classic southwestern French dish called éclade de moules, or mussels éclade, inspired by local fishermen who, after landing their boats on beaches that neighbored pine forests, cooked their mussels by surrounding them with burning pine needles. It’s not a particularly complicated preparation, but the resulting flavor is smoky and complex. Plus it makes for a pretty impressive show.

Mussels Éclade with Brown Butter and Rosemary Dipping

SERVES 2 TO 4

2 pounds mussels, cleaned 3 pounds dried pine needles

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter

1 garlic clove, minced

1. Nail 4 of the mussels onto a big flat wooden plank; it’s okay for them to be touching. Using the first 4 mussels as a reference point for the center, place the remaining mussels around them in a single layer, wide-side down.

2. Place the pine needles all around the mussels, then, using a long-arm lighter, set the needles on fire. Once the needles have burned down, about 5 minutes, the mussels are ready to eat. Let them cool for an additional 5 minutes before serving. Discard any that haven’t opened after that time.

Sauce

2 fresh rosemary sprigs, leaves removed and chopped

3. While the needles are burning, add the butter, garlic, and rosemary to a stainless steel pan set over medium-high heat. Melt the butter and continue to cook until the milk solids have browned and the butter smells nutty, 5 to 6 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and transfer the sauce to a serving bowl. Serve alongside the mussels for dipping.

I love a good charcuterie board. With a glass of wine or an aperitif, there’s really nothing better. But when I indulge in all those heavy cured meats, I feel it the next day. As I was stuffing my face with a good ol’ French saucis son (dry-cured meat), I decided to come up with a lighter option: fish char cuterie. Even the oiliest of fish are packed with good-for-you omega-3s, meaning you get the same delightful snackiness of a traditional charcuterie board and all the flavors to mix and match without feeling like you need to detox the next day. And the best part is that there’s really nothing to putting this together other than prepping anywhere from one to a handful of dishes and serving them with some simple accompaniments for dipping and scooping.

Fish Charcuterie Board

SERVES 2 TO A CROWD

Fish Charcuterie Options

Rillettes Charentaises (see page 152)

“Leftover” Fish Headcheese with Tarragon and Capers (see page 153)

Snapper Roe Bottarga (see page 155)

Fish Sausage with Shrimp Chunks (page 82)

Seaweed Tapenade with Sardines and Salicornia (page 265)

Grouper Belly Bacon with Maple and Whiskey (page 257)

Accompaniment Options

Assorted sliced raw veggies Assorted pickled vegetables (I particularly like pickled carrots, shallots, pearl onions, and cornichons)

1 baguette, sliced

If making the rillettes or the tapenade, transfer them to pretty bowls or ramekins. Otherwise, arrange your chosen charcuterie evenly around a large platter or a wooden board. Surround the charcuterie with the assortment of raw vegetables, pickled vegetables, and bread that you’ve selected. Be sure to include serving utensils for slicing and spreading, along with plenty of napkins and wine, Campari, Aperol, or pastis.

Rillettes Charentaises

SERVES 4

This is an absolute classic from my family’s region in France and is pretty much always on the table for lunch. The original recipe is essentially a very fatty pork pâté, so I wanted to adapt it to include a firm-fleshed fish. Mahi mahi is the perfect option, as it gets really firm when cooked. But butter holds the flakes of fish together, making it a perfect spread with toasted bread and cornichons.

1 pound skinless mahi mahi, chopped into 1-inch cubes

1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon

1 cup dry white wine

1 shallot, chopped 2 garlic cloves, minced

1. In a large saucepan set over medium-high heat, combine the fish, tarragon, wine, shallot, garlic, butter, and stock. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and let the fish simmer for 10 to 12 minutes.

2. Using a slotted spoon, remove the fish from the liquid, increase the heat to high, and let the liquid reduce by half (to about 1 1/2 cups), 8 to 10 minutes. Return the fish to the pot and use a fork to gently flake the cubes of fish into smaller pieces.

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter

2 cups Fish Stock (see page 70) or water

3. Serve hot, or transfer the rillettes to an airtight container and store in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

“Leftover” Fish Headcheese with Tarragon and Capers

SERVES 6 TO 8

A common and popular lunch at the Thomas-Baratte residence, especially for my sister and me, was headcheese. A European staple, headcheese is essentially meat that’s been picked from the head of a cooked pig, set in aspic, and eaten at room temperature, usually along with a simple salad and a hunk of good bread. Given my obsession with fish trims and left overs, I felt compelled to re-create this dish using fish heads instead. Just like the original version, this dish has rich, meaty flavor that is best balanced with a vinaigrette and capers.

1 large fish head with collars, preferably from a grouper

2 small onions, chopped

2 celery stalks, chopped

2 nori sheets

1 tablespoon fennel seeds

1 tablespoon coriander seeds

1 cup dry white wine

2 tablespoons gelatin powder

1/4 cup finely chopped fresh tarragon leaves

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1. In a large stockpot, combine the fish head, onions, celery, nori, fennel seeds, coriander seeds, and wine. Add enough water so that everything is covered. Set the pot over medium-low heat and let the stock simmer until the fish head is fully cooked, about 1 hour.

2. Remove the fish head from the pot, reserving the stock. Place the fish head on a baking sheet and let it cool. When it is cool enough to handle, and using your hands, remove the meat from the fish head, place the meat in a medium bowl, and set aside.

3. In a small bowl, combine the gelatin with 1/4 cup of the reserved hot stock. Stir to combine.

4. Add the gelatin mixture and the tarragon to the fish head meat. Line the bottom and sides of a 9-inch by 5-inch loaf pan with plastic wrap. Place

1/4 cup apple cider vinegar

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 tablespoon drained capers

all of the fish head meat mixture into the loaf pan, making sure to press the meat down so it’s as compact as possible.

5. Cover the loaf pan with plastic wrap and set it in the refrigerator for a minimum of 12 hours (though 24 hours is best).

6. In a small bowl, add the Dijon mustard, vinegar, and olive oil and whisk well to combine.

7. When ready to serve, remove the headcheese from the loaf pan and plastic wrap and cut it into 1/2 -inch-thick slices. Drizzle each slice with some of the vinaigrette and garnish with the parsley and capers.

Snapper Roe Bottarga

MAKES 1 CURED ROE SAC

Bottarga, or salt-cured fish roe, is one of my favorite secret ingredients. A shaving or sprin kling of it adds a salty, savory note to any dish, and it’s particularly tasty with eggs, soups, salads, and pasta.

NOTE: You can also use mullet or tuna roe, which are more common. Or you can use cod or monkfish liver, which offer a cool twist on this traditional preparation. For information on fish liver, see page 45.

1 snapper roe sac (about 1 pound)

1/4 cup kosher salt 1/2 cup celery salt

1. In a medium container, combine the roe, salt, and 1 quart water. Let the roe soak for 2 hours.

2. Remove the roe from the container and pat dry. Discard the water.

3. In a small bowl, combine the celery salt and sugar.

1/2 cup sugar

4. In a small glass dish, add half of the celery salt mixture and place the dried roe sac on top, then cover the roe sac with the remaining celery salt mixture. Make sure to press the celery salt against the sides of the roe as well.

5. Let the roe cure for 2 weeks in the refrigerator before serving.

I first had this dish in a little bed-and-breakfast in the South of France. When my host explained that Turkish eggs are basically eggs with yogurt, I wasn’t too excited. It sounded strange, even to the girl who eats fish milt. But as it (often) happens, I couldn’t have been more wrong. The tart yogurt perfectly balances the richness of the eggs. I’ve since made this for myself on many morning occasions, adding goat cheese, cured salmon, a smoky and spicy compound butter, and plenty of fresh herbs. The combination of ingredients against the warm yolks oozing over freshly toasted sourdough is hands-down heavenly.

Smoked Salmon and Turkish Egg Breakfast

SERVES 2

1 cup plain full-fat Greek yogurt

1/4 cup soft goat cheese

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, diced

1 teaspoon Bahama Mama spice mix (see page 73)

4 large eggs

1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil

Zest of 1 lemon, plus 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 cup watercress

1 cup regular or baby spinach

1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro

1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1. In a small bowl, add the yogurt and goat cheese and whisk to combine.

2. In a medium frying pan set over medium-high heat, combine the butter and spice mix. Once the butter is melted, add the eggs to the pan and cook until the whites are fully cooked but the yolks are still runny, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat.

1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill

1 Lebanese cucumber, sliced

8 ounces smoked salmon

1 avocado, sliced

4 slices (about 1/2 -inch thick) sourdough bread, toasted

3. In a medium sauté pan set over medium-high heat, add the olive oil, lemon zest, lemon juice, watercress, and spinach. Cook until the greens have just begun to wilt, about 1 to 2 minutes.

4. Spread the yogurt mixture on the bottom of a serving dish, then top with the wilted greens, followed by the eggs and all of the spiced butter. Sprinkle the eggs with the cilantro, parsley, and dill. Garnish with the cucumber, smoked salmon, and avocado, and serve with toasted sourdough.

My grandmother used to cook us whole fish and then pick any leftover meat from the bones to use in other dishes. When it came time to think about which of her recipes I wanted to re-create for this book, I was torn between a whole fish and her signature next-day fish salad with marinated sun-dried tomatoes, feta, and black olives. I decided to put the two together and create a whole-fish dish that borrows flavors from her beloved salad.

Grilled Whole Stuffed Fish with Sun-Dried

Tomatoes, Feta, and Herb Butter

SERVES 2

1/4 cup roughly chopped pitted kalamata olives

1/4 cup roughly chopped sun-dried tomatoes packed in oil

1/4 cup crumbled feta cheese

2 tablespoons minced fresh flat-leaf parsley, plus 1 tablespoon roughly chopped

1 small shallot, thinly sliced

1. Preheat a grill to 400°F.

1 tablespoon Nordic Summer spice mix (see page 73)

1 (2-pound) whole fish of your choice, such as sea bass, trout, salmon, or snapper, cleaned and gutted

1 lemon, sliced crosswise into thin rounds

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened

1/4 cup champagne vinegar 3 tablespoons chopped fresh chives

11/2 tablespoons fresh tarragon

11/2 tablespoons fresh basil

1/4 jalapeño, seeded and roughly chopped

1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

2. To a medium bowl, add the olives, sun-dried tomatoes, feta, minced parsley, shallot, and spice mix. Mix everything to combine.

3. Gently stuff the fish with the olive-feta mixture, followed by the lemon slices. Use butchers’ twine, if needed, to keep the filling inside.

4. Place the fish on the grill and cook for 20 to 25 minutes, or until an internal temperature of 140°F is reached and the fish is cooked through.

5. While the fish is grilling, in the bowl of a food processor, add the garlic, butter, vinegar, herbs, jalapeño, and red pepper flakes. Pulse until the herbs are fully incorporated into the butter.

6. Transfer the herb butter to a small pot and gently melt it over medium-high heat. Once the butter has melted, remove the pot from the heat.

7. About 5 minutes before the fish is done, brush the fish with the melted herb butter.

8. Remove the fish from the grill, drizzle any leftover herb butter over the fish, and serve.

marshall islands

I visited the Marshall Islands so I could see firsthand what a sustainable tuna fishery looks like. Amazingly, this small chain of islands in the Pacific Ocean is responsible for producing about 50 percent of the tuna destined to be canned. However, with a sea territory the size of Russia that extends all the way to New York, Marshall Islanders realize that in order for their economy to survive, these fisheries also have to survive.

I was immediately struck by the Marshall Islanders’ commitment to sustainability. (It also added to the charm that they use the word yokwe to say “hello,” which also means “you are a rainbow.”) And I admired the unique work arrangement that many islanders have. People live near extended family; a common setup is for some of the adults to stay at home and tend to family life, while the others work to bring in money (the men on the boats, the women in the fish processing plants). Then, later in the year, the roles are reversed. As a result, most islanders only work a few months out of the year. (By contrast, the fishermen on the foreign fishing boats that come to work around the islands, mostly from Asian countries, are not so lucky. They often embark for more than twelve months and live in difficult conditions.)

Another interesting twist is that while these folks produce a giant share of the world’s tuna, on the island you can pretty much find only canned fish, Spam, and sorrylooking veggies. That’s because all of the tuna that’s caught gets processed and sent to the West and Asia. Luckily, canned or tinned fish is no consolation prize. I love cook ing with these products because the fish, when it’s a high-quality product, has been responsibly caught and preserved fresh. They also pack a ton of flavor and don’t need much else to create a well-rounded and interesting dish.

I eat this pasta twice a week and never get bored of it. Instead of giving the dish a fishy taste, the fatty anchovies melt into the sauce and give it a salty umami note that becomes hard to place, but who cares because it’s damn delicious. The briny capers, tart lemon, and sweet tomatoes round the whole thing out, along with the red pepper flakes, which leave a subtle spicy finish. It’s downright crave-worthy.

Canned Anchovy Pasta with Capers, Red Pepper Flakes, and Lemon

SERVES 4

Kosher salt

1 (16-ounce) box dried spaghetti

1 bunch flat-leaf parsley

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 tablespoon drained capers

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add 1 tablespoon salt. Once the water is boiling, add the pasta to the water and cook until just shy of al dente (usually a few minutes before the directions on the package say). Drain and set aside.

2. While the pasta is cooking, cut the stems off the bunch of parsley. Roughly chop the stems and mince the leaves, keeping them separate.

3. In a large sauté pan set over medium-high heat, add the olive oil, chopped parsley stems, capers, garlic, and red pepper flakes. Cook until the parsley

1 (2-ounce) can anchovies Zest and juice of 1 lemon 8 ounces cherry tomatoes, halved

stems are just about tender, about 4 minutes. Add the anchovies to the pan, then cook until the anchovies have fully dissolved into the sauce, about 4 minutes. Add the lemon zest and lemon juice along with the cherry tomatoes. Reduce the heat to medium and sauté for about 5 minutes.

4. Using tongs, transfer the pasta to the sauté pan and toss with the sauce until well coated.

5. Garnish the pasta with the minced parsley and serve.

Because the Marshall Islands are so secluded and fresh produce deliveries are few and far between, it’s not uncommon for the vegetables at the store to look a little . . . tired. That’s when I learned how to make use of slightly past-their-prime and underutilized veggies, like celery leaves, which are often discarded but actually have a great, fresh flavor. Paired with sardines, bright lemon juice, and potatoes—the stalwart of long-lasting produce—this is a crunchy, filling salad that doesn’t require a farmers’ market at your fingertips.

Sardine Potato Salad with Capers and Celery

SERVES 6 TO 8

1 pound baby potatoes, halved

1 (4-ounce) can sardines in olive oil, plus 2 tablespoons of the oil Zest of 1 lemon, plus 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill

2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1/2 cup pitted and halved kalamata olives

1/4 cup thinly sliced red onion

1. Place the potatoes in a large pot filled threequarters of the way with water. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to medium-high and cook until the potatoes are tender and soft, 12 to 15 minutes. Drain off the water and set the potatoes aside.

2. In a small bowl, combine the reserved sardine oil, lemon zest, lemon juice, vinegar, olive oil, dill, and parsley and whisk well to combine.

1 tablespoon drained and chopped capers

4 celery stalks, leaves included, chopped 1 celery heart (the pale yellow inside), chopped 3 green onions, white and green parts, trimmed, thinly sliced

3. Use the back of a wooden spoon to gently smash the potatoes. Add the potatoes to a large bowl along with the sardines, olives, red onion, capers, celery, and celery heart. Drizzle the herb sauce over the potatoes and mix well to combine.

4. Garnish with the sliced green onions and serve.

I love poke bowls, but when you eat as much raw fish as I do, they can get a little boring. To switch things up, in this recipe I’ve swapped out the more common salmon or tuna for canned sardines. Canned sardines are the ultimate lifesaver when you have an unpredict able schedule like mine but want fresh-tasting seafood whenever the mood strikes. And when you combine them with bold flavors like ginger, fish sauce, and cilantro, you’d never guess that these guys were just hanging out in your pantry.

NOTE: For an extra pop of flavor, pickle the carrots in a mixture of half rice wine vinegar and half water for 30 minutes.

Canned Sardines Poke Bowl

SERVES 1

Juice of 1 lime

1 teaspoon fish sauce 1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil

1/2 -inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1/3 cup wild rice, cooked according to the package directions

1 (3.75-ounce) can sardines

1 Lebanese cucumber, julienned

1/4 cup julienned carrots (see Note)

1/4 cup halved cherry tomatoes

1. In a small bowl, add the lime juice, fish sauce, sesame oil, ginger, and olive oil and whisk until well combined.

1/4 cup sliced fennel bulb

2 green onions, white and green parts, thinly sliced

1 teaspoon chopped fresh mint

1 teaspoon chopped fresh cilantro

Sesame seeds, for garnish

1 large nori sheet, minced, for garnish

2. In a serving bowl, place the rice on the bottom, then layer the sardines, cucumber, carrots, cherry tomatoes, fennel, green onions, mint, and cilantro on the rice. Drizzle the sauce on top of the vegetables, then garnish with sesame seeds and nori.

Okay, controversial take here: I used to think that the rice served with nigiri, or raw slices of fish, was a waste of stomach space. But when those same balls of sweet sushi rice are panseared until crispy and golden, then brushed with a harissa sauce—genius and necessary. And it makes me that much more grateful to think of how the Marshall Islanders are making sure that our tuna populations stay happy and healthy.

NOTE: Ras el hanout is a Moroccan spice blend that you can find in some grocery stores and most specialty shops or Middle Eastern markets. However, if you can’t find it, just substitute equal parts ground coriander, ground ginger, and paprika.

Tuna Nigiri with Rice Cakes and Harissa

SERVES 6

2 cups cooked sushi rice

1/2 cup rice wine vinegar

1 tablespoon harissa paste

1 teaspoon ras el hanout (see Note)

1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar

1/4 cup vegetable oil, for cooking

1. In a medium bowl, add the sushi rice and the rice wine vinegar, then gently mix to combine.

2. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Press the sushi rice onto the sheet to form a 1-inch by 11/2 -inch-thick rectangle. (You may need a tiny bit of water on your hands to prevent the sushi rice from sticking.)

3. Using a wet knife, cut out bite-size rectangles that are about 2 inches long by 1/2 inch wide.

4. In a small bowl, add the harissa paste, ras el hanout, and apple cider vinegar, then whisk until well combined.

12 ounces raw tuna, sliced sashimi-style

1 dried nori sheet, minced, for garnish

5. Line a large plate or a platter with paper towels. In a medium sauté pan set over medium-high heat, add the vegetable oil. Once the pan is hot, add a couple of pieces of the rice cutouts to the pan, being careful not to crowd the pan. Fry until golden brown on both sides, 1 to 2 minutes per side. Transfer the fried rice cakes to the papertowel-lined plate. Repeat with the remaining rice cutouts, refreshing the oil as needed.

6. To serve, place the crispy rice cakes on a serving platter and use a pastry brush to brush some of the harissa mixture onto each cake, then top each with a slice of sashimi and garnish with the minced nori sheets.

mexico

I dined at my fair share of fancy, expensive restaurants while I spent several months traveling throughout Mexico. Yet I never went back to any of them, preferring instead the taco stands, food carts, and tiny mom-and-pop taquerias.

I challenged myself to try as many street food delicacies as possible, sometimes paying the gastrointestinal price, but oftentimes feeling more inspired than ever by the layers of textures and flavors in food from seemingly more-humble outlets. Head-to-tail cooking is a popular concept there, not because it’s trendy but because Mexican cooking customs value the integrity of ingredients and have the good sense not to let anything go to waste. The same goes for whole-fish cooking. Between soups, stews, and whole-fish preparations, many traditional Mexican recipes embrace the robust flavor that a fish and all its bits can provide. And then there are all the raw fish dishes like ceviche, aguachile, and tiradito—all shining examples of how a little acid, a little heat, and a little crunch can make fresh fish pretty much the best thing you’ve ever tasted, even when it’s served on a plastic plate at a roadside stall. These dishes quickly became my favorite go-to orders. And what really blew my mind was how every region showcased its own flavors and specialties. I could travel an hour by car and be met with completely different spices and ingredients.

I spent most of my time on the east coast of Mexico, where the recurring culinary themes were acid, fat, spice, and smoky char. The only issue was that the sea there is pretty overfished, and I was consistently frustrated by emptyhanded dives. The silver lining was that it reinforced my philosophy that there’s no such thing as undesirable fish, only high expectations and tunnel-visioned demand for just a handful of fish species. This is really when I started to under stand that all fish, so long as they’re being harvested responsibly, have a place on the table. But mostly I ended the trip feeling a new energy in the kitchen and motivated to play even more with big, bold flavors. I should also say that after my three months in Mexico, my pants didn’t fit as well as before. Instead of giving up some of my favorite dishes, I made them lighter simply by replac ing animal proteins with fish. These recipes are my way of bringing a little bit of Mexico home with me.

Fish and yogurt, what!? Please trust me on this. The lightly spicy yogurt mixes with the rich ness of the butter and oil, the saltiness of the capers, and the smoky heat of the chorizo to create a mind-bending blend of flavors that’s perfect for dipping your potatoes. I also love adding achiote, an earthy, peppery spice that’s common in Mexico, which gives the dish a pretty orange color.

NOTE: If you’re having trouble finding achiote, you can substitute my Bahama Mama spice mix (see page 73) or a mixture of equal parts cayenne pepper and smoked paprika. Also, if you prefer to not eat meat, you can omit the chorizo.

Crispy Halibut

with Yogurt Achiote, Fingerling Potatoes, and Chorizo

SERVES 4

1 pound fingerling potatoes

2 tablespoons canola oil

1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more for salting the halibut skin

4 (8- to 9-ounce) skin-on halibut fillets

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.

1 cup full-fat Greek yogurt

1 (1-inch) cube achiote or 1 tablespoon Bahama Mama spice mix (see page 73)

8 ounces cooked chorizo sausage, diced (optional) 1 teaspoon smoked paprika

2. Place the potatoes in a large pot filled with water. Bring the water to a boil over high heat, reduce to medium heat, and cook the potatoes until they are cooked through and tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Drain the potatoes and set aside.

3. Heat the canola oil in a large cast-iron skillet set over medium-high heat. Salt the skin side of each halibut fillet, then, once the oil begins to lightly smoke, reduce the heat to medium and add the fish, skin-side down. (If your skillet isn’t big enough, sauté the fillets in batches.) Sauté until the skin is crispy, 3 to 4 minutes, then flip the fillets and place

1 teaspoon garlic powder

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

1 tablespoon olive oil or neutral oil

8 basil leaves, chiffonade

the skillet in the oven. Cook for 5 to 7 minutes, or until cooked through and an internal temperature of around 125°F is reached.

4. Meanwhile, in a small mixing bowl, add the yogurt and achiote and stir until well combined.

5. In a large mixing bowl, add the potatoes, chorizo (if using), paprika, garlic powder, 1 teaspoon kosher salt, the butter, and the olive oil and toss to combine.

6. To serve, divide the potato mixture among 4 plates, then place 1 halibut fillet on each plate, skin-side up. Drizzle the fish with the yogurt sauce and garnish with the basil chiffonade.

If I had my way, I could take down a huge bowl of pork chicharrónes (fried and puffed pig skins) in front of the TV, potato chip–style. But because I try to eat pork fat in moderation, I wanted to see if I could come up with a fish-related solution. The first time I saw fish skin puff like a crackling after hitting a pan of hot oil, I knew I had something there. Throw in some black bean dip and you’ve got a solid guilt-free snack.

Fish Skin Chicharrónes with Black Bean Dip

SERVES 4

Skin of 4 scaled fish, such as salmon, grouper, or snapper (do not use fish with thick skins)

1 (15-ounce) can black beans, drained and rinsed

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more for sprinkling

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 garlic cloves, roughly chopped 1 jalapeño, stemmed, seeded, and roughly chopped

1. Preheat the oven to 170°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

2. Place the fish skins on the prepared baking sheet, making sure not to tear the skins. Bake for 2 to 3 hours, flipping halfway through, until the skins are really dry.

3. In the bowl of a food processor, combine the black beans, salt, black pepper, olive oil, garlic, jalapeño, onion, cumin, lime juice, and 1 tablespoon water. Blend until smooth.

4. In a Dutch oven set over medium-high heat, add the sunflower oil and heat to 350°F. (If you do not have a thermometer, heat until the oil just starts to smoke.)

1/2 yellow onion, roughly chopped

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1 tablespoon fresh lime juice

3/4 cup sunflower oil

1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro

5. Cut the dried fish skins into triangles or squares. Line a plate with paper towels and place it near the Dutch oven.

6. When the oil is up to temperature, add the fish skins and fry until crispy, about 1 minute. Using tongs or a slotted spoon, remove the skins from the oil, place them on the paper-towel-lined plate, and immediately sprinkle them with salt.

7. Transfer the fish skins to a serving platter, sprinkle them with the cilantro, and serve with the bean dip alongside.

I could bathe in beef bone marrow; I love how rich and unctuous it is. But it got me thinking: Could fish bone marrow be just as delicious? I’d also always wondered how to work with the meat around the spine of the large fish that I frequently caught over the course of my spearfishing career. So when I caught my biggest fish yet, a 350-pound marlin, in Baja, Mex ico, I took one look at that huge spine and decided it was time to find out about both. I baked the spine and the surrounding meat in the oven, and not only did the meat taste like bacon, but the marrow had that same melt-in-your-mouth silkiness that I was looking for. If eating the marrow is too big of a step for you, just stick with munching the meat around the bones. It’s still a big win.

NOTE: Your fishmonger is a great resource for bones; ask them to set aside this part of the fish for you.

Fish Bone Marrow

SERVES 2 TO 4

2 tablespoons minced garlic 1/4 cup olive oil

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.

2. In a small bowl, combine the garlic and olive oil, then use a pastry brush to brush the mixture all over the spine.

1 spine from a large fish, such as wahoo, tuna, or swordfish

3. Place the spine on a baking sheet and bake for about 15 minutes, or until the flesh around the bone is golden brown.

In Mexico, the fish served in tacos is typically fried, then topped with a creamy sauce and a slaw. While these are delicious, I started feeling like they were kind of all the same. (I’m French; I can’t help being a snob, even about tacos.) I also felt like the fish could be more of the star. I made the huge sacrifice of testing tons of variations (SUCH hard work), narrowed it down to the top three . . . and couldn’t leave one behind. So I’m putting them all here. #YOLO

Fish Tacos, Three Ways

SERVES 2 (EACH TACO RECIPE YIELDS 2 TACOS)

Crunchy Tuna Tacos with Gremolata Japanese Mayo

NOTE: This recipe calls for togarashi, which is a savory seasoning mix made from dried chil ies, orange peel, ginger, seaweed, and sesame seeds. You can find it in the Asian food aisle of most grocery stores, in Asian markets, or online.

2 hard yellow corn taco shells or tostadas

1/4 cup Japanese mayo (if you can’t find it, regular mayo will do)

1 teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon

1 tablespoon roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 garlic clove, grated Zest of 1/2 lemon

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. If you’re using the taco shells, preheat the oven to 400°F and warm the shells for 5 minutes, then let them cool while you prepare the filling.

2. In a small bowl, mix the mayo, tarragon, parsley, garlic, lemon zest, salt, and pepper until smooth. Add the fish and mix until it is well coated in the mayo.

7 ounces fresh sushi-grade raw tuna, cut into 3/4 -inch cubes

1/3 cup shredded napa cabbage

1/2 teaspoon togarashi spice (see Note) 1/2 teaspoon rice wine vinegar

3. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, mix the cabbage, togarashi, and vinegar until well blended.

4. Divide the fish among the crunchy shells and top with the cabbage mix.

Salmon Belly Tacos with Pickled Cucumber and

Lemon–Cream Cheese Sauce

6 salmon bellies (if you cannot find bellies, cut 1 skin-on salmon fillet into 6 pieces)

1 tablespoon plus 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

4 tablespoons regular cream cheese, at room temperature

1. Preheat the broiler to high.

1/2 cup heavy cream

Zest and juice of 1/2 lemon

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon olive oil or neutral oil

2 large corn tortillas

2. Lay the salmon bellies, skin-side up, on a metal baking sheet. Season the skin with 1 tablespoon of the salt.

3. In a medium bowl, blend the cream cheese, heavy cream, lemon zest and lemon juice, the remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt, and the pepper. Add about 1/4 teaspoon water to adjust the consistency. (You want it a bit thinner than mayonnaise.)

1 cup distilled white vinegar

1 teaspoon sugar

2 whole Lebanese cucumbers

1 Pickled Cucumber (recipe follows), sliced lengthwise (optional)

1 tablespoon salmon roe, for garnish (optional)

1 tablespoon drained capers, for garnish

1 fresh dill sprig, leaves picked, for garnish

4. Wipe the salt off the salmon skin and place the baking sheet under the broiler for 5 to 6 minutes, until the skin is golden.

5. In a large pan set over medium-high heat, heat the oil until lightly smoking. Fry the tortillas, one at a time, on both sides, until the edges are slightly brown, about 1 minute per side.

6. Right before serving, cut the pickled cucumber into thin slices. Top each tortilla with some of the salmon, pickled cucumber (if using), cream sauce, roe (if using), capers, and fresh dill.

Pickled Cucumbers

MAKES ABOUT 11/2 CUPS

1 tablespoon mustard seeds (optional)

2 or 3 fresh dill sprigs

4 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed with the back of a knife

1. In a small pot set over low heat, slowly heat the vinegar, 1 cup water, and the sugar until the sugar dissolves, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow the mixture to cool to lukewarm.

2. Place the cucumbers, mustard seeds (if using), dill, and garlic in an airtight container large enough to fit the mixture.

3. Pour the lukewarm vinegar mixture over the cucumbers and close the lid.

4. Refrigerate overnight. If you don’t have time for overnight pickling, slice the cucumbers crosswise and leave them in the pickling mixture in the fridge for at least 1 hour before serving.

Skinny Chili, Ginger, and Clementine Tacos

1 (10-ounce) snapper fillet, skinned and diced

1/3 fresh bird’s-eye chili, stemmed, seeded, and finely chopped

1/2 -inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated

1/4 teaspoon cumin powder

1/2 teaspoon fish sauce (optional)

2 teaspoons finely chopped cilantro stems, plus some leaves reserved for garnish

Juice of 2 limes

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh mint

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. In a medium bowl, combine the snapper, chili, ginger, cumin, fish sauce (if using), cilantro stems, lime juice, 1/2 teaspoon of the mint, the salt, black pepper, and clementine segments. Let the fish “cook” in the marinade for 5 to 10 minutes.

2. Line a plate with paper towels and place it near the stove. Heat the oil in a small pan over medium-

3 clementine segments, supremed and diced

1 tablespoon olive oil or neutral oil

1/2 shallot, finely cut lengthwise 8 romaine lettuce leaves

high heat until shimmering, then fry the shallot until golden brown and crispy, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer to the paper-towel-lined plate.

3. Divide the fish mixture among the lettuce leaves and garnish with the remaining 1/2 teaspoon mint, cilantro leaves, and crispy shallots.

I love a good steak tartare, but I sometimes find it hard on my stomach. So fish tartare seemed like a great substitute. To keep the creamy texture, I didn’t want to give up the egg, but I decided to cure it first in order to reduce the slime factor. (Which reminds me too much of fish slime. Blech.) The resulting dish was still missing something, though, so I thought back to my time in Mexico and got the idea to add charred shishito pepper. Sure enough, that smokiness combined with the tanginess and richness of a chimichurri mayo completely made the dish.

Snapper Tartare with Cured Quail Egg and Chimichurri Mayo

SERVES 4

1/2 cup plus 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 cup sugar

4 quail eggs

1 large egg yolk

1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 cup minced fresh cilantro

1/4 cup minced fresh flat-leaf parsley 2 nori sheets, minced 2 tablespoons minced fresh chives

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1. Mix 1/2 cup of the salt and the sugar together in a small bowl. Transfer half of the mixture to a large plate. Use the back of a tablespoon to make 4 indentations in the mixture.

2. Separate the yolk from the white of 1 quail egg and place the yolk in one of the indentations. Repeat with the remaining 3 quail eggs. (Discard the whites or reserve them for another use.) Gently cover the egg yolks with the remaining salt-sugar mixture, then place the plate in the refrigerator for 1 hour.

1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 pound raw snapper fillets, cut into 1/2 -inch cubes

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1/4 pound fresh shishito peppers

3. Meanwhile, 30 minutes before the yolks are finished curing, make the mayonnaise. In a medium bowl, add the egg yolk and vinegar and whisk well to combine. Slowly stream in the olive oil, whisking constantly until an emulsion has been formed and the mixture coats the back of a spoon. Gently stir in the cilantro, parsley, nori, chives, garlic, the remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt, the red pepper flakes, and the black pepper.

4. Add the snapper cubes to the mayonnaise. Gently toss everything together to combine, then set aside.

5. Add the vegetable oil to a medium sauté pan set over high heat. Once the pan is hot and the oil shimmers, add the shishito peppers. Cook until the peppers are nicely charred on all sides, making sure to stir throughout the cooking process, about 10 minutes.

6. Divide the snapper mixture among 4 plates, then top each with 1 of the cured quail egg yolks and some shishito peppers.

When I first ordered aguachile at a restaurant in Mexico, I looked at the watery plate think ing there’s no way this dish would have any flavor. After all, aguachile is pretty much just seafood served in liquid—though, little did I know, one seasoned with all kinds of boldly fla vored ingredients. To my happy surprise, it was absolutely bursting with balanced acid, sweetness, and heat, and it even had great texture thanks to the cucumber. In this recipe, I’ve played up the texture by adding fried quinoa but otherwise gone the traditional route. Why mess with a good thing?

NOTE: Feel free to replace the kiwi with passion fruit, mango, or even grapefruit.

Aguachile with Serrano Pepper, Kiwi, and Fried Quinoa

SERVES 4

For the Pickled Onions

1/2 red onion, thinly sliced

1/4 cup distilled white vinegar

1 tablespoon sugar

For the Aguachile

11/2 pounds raw shrimp, size of your choice

Zest and juice of 2 limes, kept separate

3 Lebanese cucumbers, sliced, plus more for garnish

1 serrano pepper, stemmed and seeded

1 kiwi, peeled

1. Make the pickled onions: Combine the red onion, white vinegar, and sugar in a metal bowl and stir to combine. Cover the bowl and place it in the refrigerator to pickle for 1 hour.

2. Make the aguachile: Devein and peel the shrimp. Place the cleaned shrimp in a bowl with the lime juice and marinate for about 5 minutes. Reserve the lime juice and set the shrimp aside.

2 green onions, chopped (white and green parts)

1 small bunch fresh cilantro (about a handful of leaves), plus more for garnish

1 garlic clove, peeled

2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar

2 tablespoons quinoa

3. Place the cucumbers, serrano, kiwi, green onions, cilantro, garlic, rice wine vinegar, lime zest, and the lime juice from marinating the shrimp in a blender. Blend on high until smooth, then, if desired for an extra-smooth sauce, strain the sauce through a fine-mesh sieve.

4. Soak the quinoa in just enough water to cover for about 5 minutes. Drain the quinoa and place it

on paper towels to remove any excess liquid. Heat a frying pan over high heat, and when the pan is hot but not smoking, add the quinoa to the pan. The quinoa will start “dancing” in the pan, and it will begin to smell like popcorn. Toast the quinoa until it is golden brown and not burnt, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and transfer the quinoa to a small bowl to cool.

5. Strain the shrimp from any remaining liquid, then divide the shrimp among 4 bowls. (Alternatively, you may serve this dish family-style by placing all of the shrimp in a serving bowl.)

Gently pour a portion of the sauce over the shrimp. Garnish with the remaining sliced cucumbers, cilantro, fried quinoa, and the pickled onions.

Louisiana

During my time in Louisiana, I spent a few days in Venice, a remote village where you can’t find much fresh food aside from what you grow or catch. I wanted to im merse myself in the fishing culture there because it’s known to be just like Louisi ana itself: rough, raw, and unusual. To hunt the local tuna, you have to follow the shrimp boats, which attract a huge following of these enormous fish—as well as sharks. And it’s made even more dangerous by the fact that the sharks are aggres sively hunting too. It’s imperative to watch your back, act like a predator, and show no fear—confidence and attitude. Despite the risks, it’s worth it. Not only is the fish ing good, but after you have your catch, a few beers are usually enough to barter for some fresh shrimp right off the boats.

I also love how Louisianans approach their food and found that it’s very much in line with my own personal philosophy: They celebrate high-quality ingredients and share them in good company. Meals are often enjoyed without fuss and with fingers, and they feel authentic to where the ingredients came from. These reci pes are great examples of that spirit and will bring a little bit of the bayou to your kitchen.

Waffles and fried chicken are Southern comfort-food classics, so it felt crucial for me to come with a fish-ified version. Crispy, golden fried fish is the perfect stand-in for chicken, while buttermilk pancakes offer an easier alternative to waffles (as in, no waffle maker required). It’s just the right amount of salty greasiness paired with sweet and spicy jalapeño honey that makes this dish an instant brunch favorite.

Buttermilk Fried Fish and Pancakes with Jalapeño Honey

SERVES 4

For the Jalapeño Honey

1 cup honey

1 jalapeño, stemmed, seeded, and thinly sliced

For the Pancakes

11/2 cups all-purpose flour, sifted

31/2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1 tablespoon granulated sugar

11/4 cups milk

2 large eggs

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

2 tablespoons canola oil

For the Buttermilk Fried Fish

2 cups buttermilk

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

2 teaspoons kosher salt

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon onion powder

1 teaspoon garlic powder

1 teaspoon ground black pepper

1 cup canola oil

4 thick, firm white fish fillets, such as halibut, halved crosswise

1. Make the jalapeño honey: Place the honey and sliced jalapeño in a saucepan set over medium-high heat. Stir to combine and let the honey come to a boil. Once the honey starts to boil, reduce the heat to a very low simmer and let the honey simmer for about 15 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and set aside.

2. Preheat the oven to 200°F.

3. Make the pancakes: In a large bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, salt, sugar, milk, eggs, and butter. Whisk until just combined. (Make sure not to overmix the batter; there should be small lumps.)

4. Heat a large skillet over medium heat, then add the oil to the skillet. Once the skillet is hot and the oil is shimmering, add 1/4 -cup portions of the batter to the pan, being careful not to overcrowd the pan. Cook on each side for about 3 minutes, or until golden brown and cooked through. Repeat with the remaining batter. Transfer the pancakes to a baking sheet and keep them warm in the oven while you fry the fish.

5. Prepare the fish: In a large, wide metal bowl, combine the buttermilk, flour, baking powder, salt, cumin, onion powder, garlic powder, and black pepper. Whisk all the ingredients together until the batter is smooth.

6. In a large cast-iron skillet set over mediumhigh, heat the oil to 350°F. (If you don’t have a thermometer, look to the point when the oil has just barely started to smoke.) Once the oil is to temp, reduce the heat to medium-high, dredge 1 fish fillet in the batter so that it is fully coated, and transfer the fillet to the hot oil. Fry on each side until golden brown and cooked through, about 3 minutes per side, 5 to 6 minutes total. Transfer to a paper-towellined plate and repeat with the remaining fillets.

7. To serve, divide the pancakes among 4 plates, then top each with a fried fish fillet and drizzle with the warm jalapeño honey.

The seafood boil is probably the most recognizable dish that hails from Louisiana, and it pretty much sums up everything about cooking from this region of the States that I love. It showcases clams and shrimp—local seafood favorites—along with potatoes, corn, sausages, and plenty of Cajun seasoning. But what makes it even more special is that it’s usually dumped onto a plastic-cloth-covered table and eaten with your hands (sometimes wearing a bib, especially if you’re a messy eater like me!). As perfect as this dish is, though, I wanted to level it up by using a cooking technique that allows all the ingredients to marinate in their own cooking liquid. It doesn’t take any more effort than boiling everything in water, and you get a much more intense seafood flavor.

NOTE: To make an even more economical version of this dish, you can use shrimp instead of adding clams. And if you don’t want to make this spice blend, you can substitute 1 cup McCormick Bayou Cajun Seasoning and 2 tablespoons Old Bay seasoning. Or you can just use an equal measure of any Cajun spice blend.

Seafood Boil in a Bag

SERVES 4

1 cup lemon-pepper seasoning

1/4 cup Worcestershire sauce

1 teaspoon smoked paprika

1 tablespoon sugar

1 pound littleneck clams

2 large (3-ounce) chorizo sausages (optional)

2 ears of corn, husked and halved crosswise

1 pound small red potatoes

10 garlic cloves, chopped

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, cubed, 2 tablespoons kept separate Juice of 2 lemons

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F, place an oven rack in the bottom third of the oven, and remove the top rack of the oven. (You need to make sure that the bag has a good foot of clearance as it cooks, because it will inflate like a balloon and melt if it hits a hot oven rack.)

2. In a small bowl, combine the lemon-pepper seasoning, Worcestershire sauce, paprika, and sugar.

1 pound medium shrimp, deveined

1 bunch fresh flat-leaf parsley, leaves roughly chopped from the stems

3. Rinse the clams under cold water.

4. Place the clams, chorizo (if using), corn, potatoes, garlic, all but 2 tablespoons of the butter, the lemon juice, and seasoning blend in an oven bag. Squeeze out as much air as possible from the bag and knot the bag to seal it.

5. Bake the seafood in the bag for about 45 minutes, then increase the oven temperature to 400°F and bake for 15 more minutes.

6. During the last 15 minutes, in a large sauté pan set over medium-high heat, add the remaining 2 tablespoons butter. Let it melt a little, then add the shrimp and cook, stirring to coat the shrimp with the butter, until all the shrimp are cooked through, 10 to 12 minutes.

7. Remove the seafood bag from the oven. Because there will be a lot of steam, be very careful when opening the bag, then add the sautéed shrimp to the bag and shake the bag to mix everything together.

8. To serve, line a table with brown kraft paper, newspaper, or a plastic tablecloth. Pour the contents of the bag onto the table, sprinkle with parsley, and enjoy. Alternatively, you can spread everything over a rimmed baking sheet if you don’t want to make a big mess.

Have you ever had a giant tomahawk steak? The kind that has the huge bone attached to the meat and costs about the same as a small car? Well, I’m pleased to tell you that when tuna steaks are properly butchered and cooked, they’re equally impressive—and at a fraction of the price of the beef version. This recipe calls for dry aging the tuna, which, as with beef, condenses and concentrates the flavors. You don’t need anything more than a good, herby salsa verde to call it a meal.

NOTE: If you’re not able to find a tuna tomahawk steak, a regular tuna steak will work.

Tuna Tomahawk with Salsa Verde

SERVES 2 TO 4

6 tomatillos, papery husks peeled and discarded

1/2 white onion, roughly chopped 1/2 cup chopped cilantro leaves and stems

1/2 cup spinach 1 tablespoon Tabasco sauce

1 teaspoon minced garlic (about 1 large garlic clove) 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1. In the bowl of a food processor, combine the tomatillos, onion, cilantro, spinach, Tabasco, garlic, salt, and pepper. Pulse until the salsa is somewhat smooth yet there are still chunks, then set aside.

2. In a large ovenproof sauté pan set over high heat, heat the sunflower oil until it shimmers. Sear the steaks for about 3 minutes on each side—

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons sunflower oil

2 tuna tomahawk steaks (see Note)

you want the sear to reach about 1/8 to 1/4 inch down from the top on each side, but the middle should remain raw.

3. Transfer the cooked tuna steaks to a serving platter, and serve with the salsa verde drizzled over them.

I came up with this recipe when I wanted something quick and simple after a long day of fishing. The corn bread comes together in minutes, and while it bakes, the fish fries just until it’s pink in the middle. Toss some butter in the pan with the cooking juices and you’ve got yourself a fantastic instant dipping sauce.

Cajun Fried Catfish on Jalapeño Corn Bread

SERVES 2

For the Jalapeño Corn Bread

1/2 cup (1 stick) salted butter, melted, plus more for greasing the pan

1 cup white self-rising cornmeal

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 cup buttermilk

1/4 cup sugar

2 large eggs

1 teaspoon kosher salt

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1 jalapeño, charred in the oven, then stemmed and sliced

For the Fried Fish

1 pound catfish or another fish of your choice, such as snapper, cobia, amberjack, halibut, or cod

2 tablespoons Bahama Mama spice mix (see page 73) or Cajun seasoning

2 tablespoons olive oil

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter

1. Make the corn bread: Preheat the oven to 400°F. Grease a 9-inch cake pan or cast-iron skillet with butter.

2. In a large bowl, add the cornmeal, flour, buttermilk, melted butter, sugar, eggs, salt, baking powder, and baking soda. Stir until just combined; do not to overmix the batter.

3. Pour the batter into the prepared pan, place the charred jalapeño slices on top, and bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.

4. Fry the fish: Coat the fillets thoroughly with the spice mix.

5. In a large sauté pan set over medium-high heat, combine the olive oil and the butter. Once the butter melts and the pan is hot, add the fillets to the pan. Cook until golden brown on each side and the fish is cooked through, about 3 to 4 minutes per side.

6. To serve, cut a square of the corn bread about the size of a credit card and place a fish fillet on top. Drizzle the fish with some of the butter from the pan.

Off the shore of Louisiana, there are dozens of shrimping boats. Often out at sea for days, the fishermen are usually game for a chat and a cold beer. In fact, I learned early on during my time there that a six-pack will get you a bag of fresh shrimp in trade (the reason I never go fishing without beer . . . well, one reason). I have always loved shrimp, but even when it’s fresh out of the water, I think it needs a little help in the flavor department. That’s why I’m a big fan of pairing them with bagna cauda, an anchovy-butter sauce.

Grilled Shrimp with Bagna Cauda

SERVES 4 TO 6

2 ounces anchovies

1/2 cup (1 stick) salted butter

8 garlic cloves, minced 1 fresh thyme sprig

1 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

2 pounds medium to large shrimp with heads on

1. Soak the anchovies in 2 cups water for 10 to 15 minutes.

2. Preheat a grill to high.

3. In a small skillet set over medium-high heat, melt the butter. Add the garlic and cook until it is golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Drain the anchovies and add them to the butter with the thyme. Using a wooden spoon, gently break up the anchovies to help them dissolve into the sauce.

4. Stream in the olive oil, whisking constantly, then whisk in the flour and reduce the heat to low.

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice (from 2 lemons)

Minced fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves, for garnish

5. Drizzle the shrimp with a little bit of oil, toss, and place the shrimp on the grill. Cook the shrimp until an internal temperature of 145°F is reached, 8 to 10 minutes, flipping them halfway through. Transfer the shrimp to a serving platter.

6. Whisk the bagna cauda so it’s homogenous, then add the lemon juice.

7. Drizzle the bagna cauda over the top of the shrimp and garnish with the parsley.

Yes, you read right; there is such thing as fish wings. Yet another mind-blowing lesson I learned from Chef Mike in New Orleans! The entire belly and collar section is full of interest ing cuts that are very tasty (even more than fillets, I’d say). Since this meat is closer to the bones, it is fatty, juicy, flaky, and super flavorful, and it makes a nice pairing with more robust flavors, like this garlicky pesto.

Fish Wings with Herb Pesto Dip

SERVES 2

8 fish wings (from 4 fish)

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves

1/2 cup roughly chopped fresh chives

1/2 cup fresh basil leaves

1 tablespoon fresh oregano leaves

1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar

2 garlic cloves, peeled 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese

1/4 cup walnuts

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.

2. Cut the wings according to the directions on page 288.

3. Place the wings on a baking sheet, drizzle them with olive oil, and season with salt and pepper. Bake until cooked through, 10 to 12 minutes.

4. In the bowl of a food processor, combine the parsley, chives, basil, oregano, vinegar, garlic, Parmesan, walnuts, and 1/2 cup olive oil. Process until the mixture is smooth yet small flecks of herbs are still visible.

5. To serve, place the wings on a serving platter, transfer the pesto to a bowl, and serve on the side.

When I met Chef Mike Nelson in New Orleans and he told me he was making gummies with fish scales, I’m not going to lie; I thought he might be a bit insane. It turns out that Chef Mike is actually an absolute genius when it comes to fish, and he knows you can make great gela tin with fish scales that not only has no odor or smell but is also much healthier than more processed land-animal-derived types of gelatin. With a few fish in the cooler and a great scaler, you can make a ton of gelatin, which is perfect for these gummies, but it can also be used in other desserts like panna cotta or any recipes that call for gelatin. It’s the perfect use for otherwise unusable trim that would have been thrown away.

Scale Gummy Bears

MAKES 48 GUMMY BEARS

1 pound fish scales 11/4 ounces freeze-dried raspberries

1. In a large pot set over medium-high heat, combine the fish scales and 1 gallon water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook until the liquid has reduced to about 2 cups, 2 to 3 hours.

2. Strain and discard the scales and reserve the liquid, which is infused with collagen from the fish scales.

3. Use a coffee grinder to pulverize the freezedried raspberries into a powder.

Special equipment: Gummy bear mold

4. Stir the powder into the reserved collagen water until it has dissolved. Strain with a fine-mesh strainer.

5. Gently fill each bear mold with the raspberrycollagen mixture. Place the silicone mold on a baking sheet and set it in the refrigerator, uncovered, for 3 to 4 hours, until set.

6. Once the gummies have set, pop them out of the mold and enjoy!

New York

It always surprises people to hear that I include New York among my favorite fishing destinations. They can’t believe it would be possible to find fish (much less ones you’d want to eat) near such a huge urban center. But just off Long Island are some real treasures, such as striped bass, whose flesh is particu larly delectable. I try to make it out to this part of the world every year in July. I have a routine in which I fish for two days, setting a personal limit of one 30to 40-pound fish a day. (It’s the law to catch only one fish a day, and those in this size range are the most sustainable.) Even though I know the reward will be worth it, fishing there is never easy. I usually have to make between forty and fifty dives before I catch anything. The water is cold and dark, thanks to the algae, and the currents are brutal. Plus these waters are frequented by great white sharks and makos.

When I have my two catches in hand, I set one aside for myself and exchange the other for a large crate of organic vegetables from a local market. Then it’s off to Manhattan, cooler under my arm, where I fill my best friend’s fridge with my harvest and later cook a meal for her and her family using ingredients that have traveled only a handful of miles from where they were grown. When our bellies are good and full, we move to the backyard, where we spend the evening around a fire, eating peaches, ice cream, and toasted marshmallows.

It’s this celebration of local seasonal produce that inspired the recipes for this chapter. Cooking with produce that’s grown where you live and has just come out of the ground is not only better for the planet, but it’s also just good sense—it’s a whole lot tastier, which means it takes a lot less work to make your meals special.

Oysters are the cleaning crew of the ocean. Each one can filter up to 50 gallons of water a day, removing pollutants. They’re also an aphrodisiac (not proven, but let’s pretend it’s true) and are surprisingly low in calories (if you’re interested in such a thing). And, of course, they are delicious. Which is why I’m a huge fan of serving them in as many preparations as possible, while also making sure to source them responsibly so that they can keep on working their underwater magic. For me, the key to enjoying oysters is to complement their natural briny flavor rather than covering it up—which is why acid and heat are your oyster’s friends. Each of these recipes is equally lovely for sharing, almost as lovely as your date slurping them while maintaining direct eye contact. (Just kidding; please never do this.)

Oysters, Three Ways

SERVES 2 TO 4

2 dozen small oysters, shucked

Raspberry Vinegar Mignonette

MAKES 1/2 CUP

1 shallot, minced

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup raspberry vinegar

Mix the shallot, pepper, and vinegar in a small bowl. Serve alongside the oysters.

Champagne and Tabasco Granita

MAKES 1 CUP

1 cup champagne

1/4 teaspoon Tabasco sauce

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh chives

1. Mix the champagne and Tabasco together in a small metal bowl.

2. Place the bowl on a small, rimmed baking sheet and place it in the freezer. Use a fork to scrape and break up the granita every hour for at least 4 hours, or until everything is frozen.

3. Serve immediately on open oysters and garnish with chopped chives.

Asian Mignonette

MAKES 1/2 CUP

1 green onion, chopped (white and green parts)

1/2 teaspoon grated fresh ginger

1/2 cup rice wine vinegar

1 teaspoon soy sauce

1/4 teaspoon unpacked light brown sugar

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

Mix the green onion, ginger, vinegar, soy sauce, brown sugar, and lime juice together in a bowl. Serve alongside the oysters.

As the self-proclaimed “fish burger lady,” I believe that this recipe lives up to the (self-given) title. Creating the ultimate fish burger has been years of perfectionist work in the making. (Tasting fish burgers—hard work, I know.) After experimenting with different ingredients in the patty mix, I came to the conclusion that going basic with a simple bread crumb dredging is the key, because you don’t want a lot to interfere with the surprisingly meaty flavor of the fish. You also want to use thicker fillets for this recipe, since that’s what makes nice, juicy burgers. Once you try these, you’ll see why it’s the one dish that everyone looks forward to when I visit New York.

The Ultimate Fish Burgers

SERVES 4

1 cup bread crumbs

1 teaspoon smoked paprika

1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

2 large eggs, beaten

4 (9-ounce) bass fillets or any other firm fish, such as halibut, pollock, or cod

1/4 cup vegetable oil (or about 1/2 inch oil at the bottom of the pan)

Kosher salt

4 brioche hamburger buns

1. To a medium shallow dish, add the bread crumbs, paprika, cayenne, and black pepper and mix well to combine.

2. Place the beaten eggs in another shallow dish.

3. Dip the fish fillets into the egg to coat. Allow any excess to drip off before adding them to the bread crumb mixture to coat well.

4. In a large skillet set over medium-high heat, heat the vegetable oil. Once the pan is hot and the oil shimmers, add the fish fillets. Cook the fish on both sides until golden brown, 5 to 6 minutes per side.

Tartar Sauce (page 211) or store-bought

Arugula, for serving Pickled shallots or red onions, homemade (see page 85) or store-bought

5. When the fillets are finished cooking, transfer them to a paper-towel-lined plate and immediately sprinkle them with salt. (Do this while the residual oil is still on the fillets.)

6. Lightly toast the buns, if you like.

7. Spread some of the tartar sauce on the bottom half of each bun, then place some arugula on top. Place 1 fish fillet on top of the arugula, then add some pickled shallots and the top portion of the bun.

in

The Best Tartar sauce

the Whole Universe and Beyond

NOTE: You can swap out the mayo for low-fat Greek yogurt plus the juice of an additional 1/4 lemon if you want a lower-fat version.

MAKES ABOUT 1/2 CUP

6 small cornichons, thinly sliced 3 fresh flat-leaf parsley sprigs, leaves roughly chopped

5 tablespoons mayonnaise (ideally homemade, but store-bought is fine; see Note)

1 tablespoon rinsed, drained, and roughly chopped capers

Juice of 1/4 lemon

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 1/2 teaspoon dried tarragon 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

In a food processor, blender, or large bowl with an immersion blender, combine the cornichons, parsley, mayo, capers, lemon juice, Dijon, tarragon, and pepper. Process until well combined and only a few chunks remain. Alternatively, if you like a really chunky tartar sauce, you can use a fork to mix everything in a bowl (which is what I prefer, but I’m not here to judge).

If there’s corn chowder on the menu, I’m ordering it. Especially when I am in Florida or in Montauk and it’s after a cold-water dive, this dish is the ultimate comfort food. It is also a fantastic way to use your leftover fish! You made mussels the night before? Throw ’em in! This version is modeled after what I believe to be the ultimate chowder: rich, creamy, kind of fatty, and a tad spicy. If you don’t use all the clam juice, make yourself a Bloody Caesar (aka the best cocktail ever: tomato juice, clam juice, spices, and vodka).

Corn Chowder

SERVES 6

1/4 pound pancetta or bacon, chopped (optional)

2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) unsalted butter

1 large onion, chopped

2 celery stalks, chopped

3/4 pound red baby potatoes, quartered

2 cups Fish Stock (see page 70) or water

1 cup bottled clam juice

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon Bahama Mama spice mix (see page 73)

1. In a large pot set over medium-high heat, add the pancetta (if using) and the butter and cook until the pancetta is almost crispy, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the onion, celery, and potatoes. Cook until the onions are almost translucent, about 5 minutes.

2. Add the fish stock, clam juice, lemon juice, red pepper flakes, salt, black pepper, and spice mix. Let the soup come to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium and cook until the potatoes are tender, 20 to 25 minutes.

2 cups frozen corn kernels

1 cup whole milk

1 cup heavy cream

1 pound flaky white fish, such as cod or mahi mahi, cut into 1-inch cubes

1/4 cup chopped fresh flatleaf parsley, leaves only, for garnish

3. Add the corn, milk, cream, and cubed fish and mix well to combine. Reduce the heat to low and let the soup simmer until it reaches a thick, luxurious consistency, about 15 minutes.

4. Garnish with the parsley before serving.

I own a tiny oyster and seaweed farm in Long Island called Triple Sea Farm. I did it for fun, mainly to support my own personal consumption of oysters and to do my part with keeping the water nice and clean. (As I mentioned earlier, oysters are nature’s water filters.) After finding out that oysters cohabitate very well with clams, my friend and farm co-owner Colin and I figured we should try adding some. It was a huge success, which meant that I had lots of opportunities to play around with cooking clams. One of my favorite ways to show off their natural saltiness is tossing them into a cheesy lobster bisque. It’s a must-try.

Steamed Giant Clams with Lobster Bisque and Aged Cheddar

SERVES 2

6 giant clams

1 (10.5-ounce) can lobster bisque

1/4 cup heavy cream

1. Preheat the broiler to high.

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2. Add a couple inches of water to a steamer pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the clams, cover, and steam until they are open, 10 to 12 minutes. Discard any that have not opened after that time.

3. In another large pot set over medium-high heat, heat the lobster bisque until it simmers. Stir in the heavy cream, salt, and pepper.

1/2 cup grated aged cheddar cheese

1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon

4. Once the clams are cooked and the soup is hot, transfer the soup to a large heatproof serving bowl, then add the clams in their shells. Top with the cheddar and place the bowl under the broiler for about 2 minutes, until the cheese is melted and golden brown.

5. Remove the bowl, garnish with the tarragon, and serve.

When I visit my oyster farm on Long Island, I always bring an empty cooler with me. As my eyes are, and will always be, bigger than my stomach, I bring back way too many oysters every time. Freezing and canning them becomes an anti-waste solution that turns into fabu lous meals. One of my favorite things to do with the preserved oysters is to use them in a sauce, which is a preparation common in many Asian cultures but not in Western ones, which is a shame because it’s a great way to bring deep flavor to a dish and is healthier than a meatbased stock. Change starts here, people!

Caviar Cod with Smoked Oyster Sauce

SERVES 4

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 large egg yolk, at room temperature

1 teaspoon champagne vinegar

1/2 cup canola oil, plus more for cooking the cod

1 (3.75-ounce) can smoked oysters, drained and chopped Kosher salt

1. In a bowl, combine the mustard, egg yolk, and vinegar and start whisking. Slowly drizzle in the oil, making sure to constantly whisk the entire time, until all the oil is incorporated. The mixture should be thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Mix in the oysters.

2. Set a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Salt the skin side of the cod fillets (if using). Then, when the pan is hot, add about 3 tablespoons oil to the pan.

4 skin-on cod fillets (skin-on optional) 1 tablespoon minced fresh chives

4 ounces MSC-certified sustainable caviar

Place the cod fillets in the pan, skin-side down. Cook until the skin is crispy, about 3 minutes, then flip the fillets over and finish cooking, about 2 more minutes.

3. To serve, place a large dollop of the oyster aioli on each of 4 plates, then place a cod fillet on top and garnish each with some of the chives and 1 ounce of the caviar.

This recipe started as a ruse. Whenever I go fishing in Montauk, I always stop at my friend Jess’s house in Brooklyn on the way back to cook a feast with the fish I’ve caught. When she told me that her kids don’t like fish, I decided to make chicken fingers . . . with fish. My handi work was so excellent that not only did the kids love them but so did all the adults. They were so successful, in fact, that Jess forgave me for getting my leaky cooler’s fish juice all over the back of her Audi when I borrowed it to go fishing. Oops.

Fish Fingers with Spicy Dill Yogurt

SERVES 4

4 fillets firm white fish such as mahi mahi (8 to 9 ounces each)

2 large eggs

2 cups plain bread crumbs 11/2 cups canola oil

1/2 cup full-fat Greek yogurt

1. Cut the fillets into bite-size pieces about 2  inches long by 1 inch wide.

2. In a small bowl, whisk the eggs with 1 tablespoon water.

3/4 cup minced fresh flat-leaf parsley, leaves only

Zest of 1 lemon

Zest of 1/2 orange

1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1 shallot, grated 2 teaspoons Tabasco sauce

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3. In a medium bowl, place the bread crumbs.

4. In a Dutch oven set over medium-high heat, heat the oil to 350°F. (If you do not have a thermometer, heat until the oil just starts to smoke.) Line a plate with paper towels and set aside.

5. While the oil is coming to temperature, in a small bowl, combine the Greek yogurt, parsley, lemon zest, orange zest, dill, garlic, shallot, Tabasco, salt, and pepper. Whisk everything together until smooth.

6. Dip the fish pieces into the egg wash to coat. Allow any excess to drip off, then add the fish to the bread crumbs to coat well.

7. When the oil is up to temperature, place half of the nuggets in the oil and fry until golden brown and fully cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes. Using tongs or a slotted spoon, remove the nuggets from the oil and transfer them to the paper-towel-lined plate. Repeat the process with the remaining fish.

8. Serve the nuggets immediately with the spiced yogurt on the side.

New Caledonia

New Caledonia is a French territory made up of dozens of islands in the South Pacific. It’s known for its beautiful beaches and large lagoons packed with marine life. The wa ters surrounding New Caledonia are some of the most gorgeous I have ever seen, and they are protected by the Kanak tribes. On some islands, if you want access to their fish-filled surroundings, it’s customary to show up with offerings. That’s exactly what I did, turning up at a sparsely populated island with dive gear for the kids. I was invited to stay with one of the families there, which was an honor and a privilege. And even though our experiences on this planet couldn’t have been more different, we shared the same language (French, plus a love for the ocean and its creatures).

It was in New Caledonia that I had one of the most memorable moments of my life—followed by one of the most terrifying. I’d just wrapped up a successful day of fishing and was enjoying grilled lobster on a boat that was anchored off the island near where we had stopped to camp. The sunset bloomed over the water, and I knew that I would remember that evening for the rest of my life.

But on the way back to shore, our boat ran aground on the coral reef just 150 feet from the beach. The only way to free ourselves was to climb out of the boat and onto the razor-sharp surface of the reef. I immediately fell and could feel as my calf was sliced open, a small pool of blood forming around me. The reef is essentially a shark nursery, filled with bull sharks, tiger sharks, and great whites. As the carcasses of the fish we had eaten during the day floated around us, we did not have to wait long before seeing sharks. Small ones, then . . . very big ones. As my blood trickled into the sea, I tried not to think about the fact that a doctor had lost his life there just two months earlier after being attacked by a shark. My friends and the captain decided to stay on the reef to try to dislodge the boat as quickly as they could, but because I was bleeding so profusely, we agreed it was best if I swam to the beach. I’d have to quietly paddle, alone and in the dark, and not give in to panic, which might attract the sharks’ attention.

I have never swam so quickly. But I was not out of the woods yet. It was cold, my clothes were soaked, and the island was infested with sea krait, one of the most poi sonous serpents in the world. I had to start a fire at any cost. It wasn’t until the fire began to crackle, half an hour later, that I began to breathe normally again. Of course, this wouldn’t be the last time I’d tempt fate, but luckily, most evenings with a belly full of fish and liquid-courage cocktails don’t end in life-or-death scenarios.

It shouldn’t come as a surprise that lobsters—whether they’re from the cold waters of the Atlantic or are warm-water langoustines—known for being insanely tender and juicy, are deli cious when prepared simply with salt and pepper and grilled over a fire. A cool little trick I learned is to cut an emptied beer can in half (after the beer has been enjoyed, of course), put a big chunk of butter and some garlic in it, and leave it on the cooler side of the grill to melt. What you end up with is the perfect dip for finger-picked pieces of langoustine or lobster.

NOTE: I call for slipping some pats of butter beneath the lobster shell to help baste the meat as it cooks, but if that feels too complicated, feel free to skip that step. There will still be plenty of butter for serving!

Grilled Lobster

SERVES 4

4 lobsters (1 to 11/2 pounds each), cut in half lengthwise

11/4 cups (21/2 sticks) unsalted butter, sliced 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1. Preheat a grill to medium-high.

1/4 teaspoon smoked paprika

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper 4 tablespoons minced garlic

2. If adding butter under the lobster shell, use your fingers to gently lift the shell around the tail away from the flesh just enough to slip in 3/4 cup of the sliced butter.

3. In a small bowl, add 1/4 cup of the lemon juice, 1/4 teaspoon of the smoked paprika, the salt, black pepper, and 2 tablespoons of the minced garlic. Mix to combine. Pour a little bit of the mixture on top of the lobster tails and marinate for 15 minutes.

4. Once the lobster tails have marinated, place them on the grill grates, shell-side down. Grill the lobsters until the lobster flesh curls up and detaches

1/2 cup dark rum 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1 teaspoon Bahama Mama spice mix (see page 73) or 1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika

from the shell on the largest part of the tail, 10 to 13 minutes.

5. Meanwhile, in a small pan set over medium-low heat, melt the remaining 1/2 cup of butter. Add the rum and bring the mixture to a gentle simmer over medium-low heat. Simmer just long enough to cook off some of the alcohol from the rum, about 1 minute. Remove the pot from the heat and stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons garlic, the red pepper flakes, spice mix, and the remaining 2 tablespoons lemon juice and mix well to combine.

6. Serve the lobster tails with the rum-butter sauce for dipping.

Attempting a fish roast was a natural progression of my seafood-cooking journey. I’d always loved a big piece of meat cooked simply until it was juicy and tender, so why not do the same with fish? Especially because bigger fish have loins that look more like large cuts of beef than they do a daintier fish fillet. Amberjack is one of my favorite fish to eat in general, so when I ended up with a hundred-plus pounder on the boat, the stars were aligned for me to try my experiment. Sure enough, with enough attention and care to make sure the fish didn’t overcook, the roast was juicy and flaky—the holy grail of a fish dinner.

Big Fish Roast with Fumet Sauce and Kohlrabi

SERVES 4

1/4 cup canola oil

1 loin from a big fish (70-pound or larger fish)

2 handfuls of ice

1 cup Fish Fumet (see page 70), or chicken or vegetable stock

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.

1/2 cup clam juice

1/2 cup dry white wine

1 kohlrabi, thinly sliced on a mandoline

1/2 cup whipping cream

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

2. In a large frying pan set over high heat, add the canola oil. Once the pan is hot and the oil is lightly smoking, sear the fish loin on all four sides until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes on each side. Transfer the seared loin to a rimmed baking sheet and place it in the oven to cook for 10 to 20 minutes, until it is medium-rare and an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center registers 125°F.

3. While the fish is baking, fill a large bowl with ice and cold water. Set aside.

4. In a large pot, combine the fumet, clam juice, and wine. Bring the mixture to a boil over high heat and add the kohlrabi. Blanch for about 1 minute, then, using a slotted spoon, transfer the kohlrabi to the ice bath or run cold water over it to stop the cooking. Add the cream to the pot, stir to combine, then remove the pot from the heat.

5. Place the fish loin on a serving platter, drizzle the fumet sauce on top of the loin, and top with the kohlrabi slices. Drizzle with the lemon juice and olive oil before serving.

After a few days of some of the best fishing I have ever done in my life off the coast of Isle of Pines, it was time for the final predeparture feast. Usually I cook for my hosts as a way of showing my appreciation. However, the family I had been staying with insisted on making me a traditional Kanak celebration dish called bougna marmite. In the Kanak dialect, the word bougna loosely translates to “bundle” or “pack” and refers to how pieces of taro, yam, chicken, fish, or lobster are wrapped inside banana leaves, buried, and cooked in ground ovens heated with red-hot rocks. After unwrapping my little packet and tasting how per fectly the flavors had melded together, I knew I would have to come up with my own version.

Swordfish Stew (Bougna)

SERVES 6

11/2 pounds boneless swordfish meat, cut into 1-inch cubes

1 teaspoon kosher salt

2 teaspoons ground cumin

1 teaspoon paprika

1/4 teaspoon celery salt

1/4 teaspoon coriander seeds

1/4 teaspoon fennel seeds

1 green cardamom pod

1 nori sheet

1 garlic clove, minced

1 medium onion, chopped

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, cubed

2 medium sweet potatoes, diced

1 (13.5-ounce) can full-fat coconut milk

1. In a large Dutch oven, combine the swordfish, salt, cumin, paprika, celery salt, coriander seeds, fennel seeds, cardamom, nori, garlic, onion, butter, sweet potatoes, and coconut milk. Let sit, covered, in the refrigerator overnight.

2. The next day, preheat the oven to 350°F.

3. When the oven is up to temperature, add 3 cups water to the Dutch oven mixture, stir to combine, then re-cover and place the pot in the oven to bake for 1 hour.

2 cups uncooked white rice

3 tablespoons cornstarch 8 ounces cherry tomatoes, halved

1 tablespoon roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves

1 tablespoon pomegranate seeds

4. While the fish is baking, cook the rice according to the package directions.

5. Once the stew has finished cooking, take 1/4 cup of the liquid from the stew and mix it with the cornstarch in a small bowl so that the cornstarch dissolves in the hot liquid. Add the cornstarch slurry to the stew and stir to combine. Simmer for 5 minutes to thicken. Stir in the cherry tomatoes.

6. Serve the stew over the rice, garnished with chopped parsley and pomegranate seeds.

Sometimes I think about all the lobster carcasses carelessly thrown away over the years and all the rich, creamy lobster bisques that couldn’t be created because of it. Especially because when I was once stuck on a deserted island in New Caledonia, the carcasses from the previous night’s dinner became a lifesaver. The wind was blowing too hard for me to leave, and I was running low on food. But with the small amount fish I had left, the bottle of cognac I kept stashed on the boat, and the carcasses, I was able to make an improvised soup that turned out to be one of the best meals I’ve ever had. I’ve since refined the recipe using ingredients that I wished I’d had that night, and the effect is even better: a creamy, slightly smoky, deeply satisfying soup.

Lobster Bisque

SERVES 4

2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) unsalted butter

5 or 6 lobster shells (or 1/2 pound shrimp shells)

1 medium white onion, chopped

2 celery stalks, chopped

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 tablespoons tomato paste

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

1/3 cup cognac 8 cups Fish Fumet (see page 70), water, or stock

1 cup dry white wine

1. In a large stockpot set over medium-high heat, add the butter and the shells. Cook until the shells are well coated with melted butter, about 5 minutes. Add the onion, celery, and garlic and stir in the tomato paste. Cook for about 5 minutes.

2. Sprinkle the flour on top of the vegetables and stir to combine. Add the cognac, using a wooden spoon to scrape any browned pieces off the bottom

2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

1 whole star anise

2 bay leaves

2 fresh thyme sprigs

2 fresh tarragon sprigs

1 teaspoon smoked paprika

1/2 cup heavy cream

of the pot. Add the fumet, wine, pepper, star anise, bay leaves, thyme, tarragon, and paprika. Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer, uncovered, for 1 hour.

3. Strain the soup through a chinois or fine-mesh sieve and into a large bowl; discard the solids. Return the soup to the pot, add the cream into the soup, stir well to combine, and serve.

Sweden

I would live in Sweden if it weren’t for the chilly climate and the lack of sun in the winter. In addition to having landscapes straight off a postcard, the food there never ceases to impress me, including things I once eyed suspiciously while thinking, There is NO WAY I’d like that, such as pickled fish. But sure enough, add pumpernickel bread and a lemony sour cream sauce, and that pickled fish is simply out of this world. I realized that most of their traditional recipes, from fermented fish to fish cakes to smoked fish to casseroles, were the ultimate comfort seafood.

Surrounded by waters abundant with some of the best-tasting fish in the world, the entire country of Sweden is a culinary inspiration, rooted in its close ties to the sea. They even have a crawfish holiday (May 8). I’ve returned again and again, and every time I fall more in love with their signature flavor combination of tangy, vinegary, and creamy. I’ve since adapted that trio into many of my recipes (including the ones in this chapter) and even created a spice blend around them (Nordic Summer).

It was in Sweden that I also learned about seafood preservation, which is an integral part of Scandinavian cuisine. Born out of practicality, preserving fish is a way to give this otherwise highly perishable staple a much longer shelf life. But it’s also ridiculously tasty and surprisingly easy to do. I love incorporating preserved fish products, such as gravlax and pickled fish, into my recipes for their robust flavor, or if I know that a piece of fish left in my fridge isn’t going to hold on much longer, I’ll cure it. That way I’ll have weeks to eat it, and I’ll have a fun snack for guests (or to keep to myself).

Smorgasbord is a traditional Swedish spread consisting of hot and cold dishes accompanied by bread, butter, fish, cured meat, pickled and fresh vegetables, and assorted condiments. But the star of the show, in my opin ion, is all the fish that’s traditionally included, which is typically cold and often pickled. I love that vinegary taste with fresh fish, which is why I pull so much inspiration from this part of the world when coming up with new reci pes. I wanted to put these dishes front and center with this all-fish version of the smorgasbord, including gravlax, dill-pickled small fish, and fish eyes.

Scandinavian Smorgasbord

SERVES 2 TO A CROWD

Fish Charcuterie Options

Amberjack Gravlax (see page 234)

Dill-Pickled Perch with Pumpernickel, Radishes, and Herb Sour Cream (see page 235)

Pickled Fish Eyes (see page 237)

Accompaniment Options

Assorted pickled vegetables

Capers

Crème fraîche or sour cream

Toasted pumpernickel bread or bagels

Saltines

If you’re making the pickled fish eyes, transfer them to a pretty bowl or a ramekin for the smorgasbord. Otherwise, arrange your chosen charcuterie evenly around a large platter or wooden board. Surround the charcuterie with the assortment of pickled vegetables and crackers that you’ve selected. Be sure to include serving utensils for slicing and spreading, along with plenty of napkins and wine, brännvin, or aquavit.

Amberjack Gravlax

SERVES 4

Gravlax is not only for salmon! Far from it. And it’s not just for fancy brunches, either. Scandi navians got that memo hundreds of years ago, when they figured out that cured fish was a way to stretch their fresh food resources. Now it’s just an easy, tasty way to enjoy a variety of fresh fish, especially amberjack, which has firm yet flaky flesh and a mild, non-fishy taste. All curing fish requires is minimal ingredients and effort plus time, and you can treat it as a blank canvas for all kinds of seasonings. I love using my Nordic Summer spice mix, a traditional mix of dill, lemon, salt, and sugar. But you can also use cumin, paprika, cayenne, oregano, fenugreek, or white pepper.

NOTE: I like to cure my gravlax for 48 hours, but 24 hours will also produce an amazing end product. And for the adventurous cooks, you can take the extra step of cold-smoking the fish for 6 to 8 hours (see page 56) before curing it, which will give it a beautifully gentle smoky flavor.

1/3 cup kosher salt

1/3 cup unpacked light brown sugar

2 tablespoons whiskey 1 (1-pound) amberjack fillet

1. In a small bowl, combine the salt, sugar, and whiskey and stir until well blended.

2. In a medium glass baking dish large enough to fit all the fish, add half of the salt mixture. Place the amberjack fillets on top of the salt mixture, then add the remaining salt mixture on top of the fillets.

3. Tightly cover the dish with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator for 24 to 48 hours.

1/4 cup Nordic Summer spice mix (see page 73)

4. The next day, remove the fillets from the salt mixture, rinse them in cold water, pat dry, roll them in the spice mix, and slice them thinly against the grain. Serve as you would smoked salmon, on a bagel with cream cheese or on a cracker with the Herb Sour Cream (see page 235). The gravlax will keep in the refrigerator for up to a week.

Dill-Pickled Perch with Pumpernickel, Radishes, and Herb Sour Cream

MAKES 2 CUPS

You know those dusty jars of pickled fish you see in some grocery stores and you think, Who in their right mind would eat that? Well, plot twist, they taste amazing—tart yet rich and vel vety. Perch (or similar smaller white fish like sardines, anchovies, or whitebait) is a perfect fish to do this with since it can be difficult to turn a bunch of smaller fish into a meal, but a jar of pickled fish lasts forever and doesn’t need much more than a good loaf of bread and some fresh, crunchy veggies to satisfy any appetite.

6 perch fillets, skin removed

2 fresh dill sprigs, plus 1 teaspoon chopped

1 cup apple cider vinegar

1 tablespoon kosher salt

1/2 cup soy sauce

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves

1/4 cup full-fat sour cream

1. In a 1-pint mason jar, combine the perch, dill sprigs, vinegar, salt, soy sauce, and olive oil. Seal the jar and place in the refrigerator for 2 days.

2. When ready to serve, to a small bowl add the chopped dill, parsley, sour cream, lemon zest, and lemon juice and mix to combine.

Zest of 1 lemon, plus 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

4 pumpernickel bread slices, toasted, cut in half 3 radishes, thinly sliced

3. Serve the pickled perch on top of toasted pumpernickel bread and garnish with the herb sour cream and sliced radishes.

Pickled Fish Eyes

MAKES

3/4 CUP

To be fair, I know just as many people who will not eat fish eyes as those who do. And full disclosure: it took me a while to be able to appreciate them as well. But because I never want any part of the fish to go to waste, I’ve come around to the idea; I just needed to figure out how to make them appealing and tasty. It turns out that pickling transforms fish eyes into little salty, caper-like sprinkles. I may or may not have tricked people by not telling them what they were eating until they had swallowed and said they liked it. Some may call it deceitful; others call it ingenious. Potato, potahto.

1/2 cup distilled white vinegar

1 tablespoon pure maple syrup

1 teaspoon whole pink peppercorns, crushed 1 tablespoon fresh or 1 teaspoon dried tarragon

1. In a large saucepan set over low heat, mix the vinegar, 1/2 cup water, the maple syrup, peppercorns, and tarragon. Bring to a low simmer, then remove the pot from the heat.

20 fish eyes, sockets included

2. Rinse the fish eyes thoroughly and place them in a clean glass jar large enough to fit the eyes and the brine.

3. Pour the vinegar mixture over the fish eyes, cover the jar, and place in the refrigerator for at least 3 hours and up to 3 days.

When I was growing up, there was a fishmonger close to my family’s house who sold a salad made with expensive fish and calamari. When I got allowance money, I didn’t go buy candies like other kids but rather this salad. (I was a weird kid, I know. . . .) As a grown-up, being able to not only buy it but also make it is one of my greatest pleasures in life. (I guess I’m a weird adult also.) I felt completely vindicated when I got to Sweden and saw how common it is for fish and seafood to be served together in a vinaigrette. It continues to be one of my favorite flavor combinations.

Halibut Escabeche

SERVES 4

1/2 cup apple cider vinegar

1/2 cup dry white wine

1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano

1 teaspoon dried chamomile flowers (the contents of a chamomile tea bag will work)

1 garlic clove, minced 4 (8- to 10-ounce) halibut fillets, cut into bite-size pieces

1/4 cup sliced onion 1/4 cup sliced leek 1/4 cup sliced carrot 1/4 cup sliced celery

1. In a small saucepan set over medium-high heat, combine the vinegar, wine, oregano, chamomile, and garlic. Bring to a boil, then remove the pot from the heat.

2. In a glass baking dish, add the halibut fillets along with the onion, leek, carrot, celery, fennel, and salt. Pour the vinegar mixture over the top of the fish and vegetables and set aside to cool.

3. Once the mixture has cooled to room temperature, cover the dish with plastic wrap and place it in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours and up to 24 hours.

1/4 cup sliced fennel

1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more for finishing

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Freshly ground black pepper

4. Remove 1/4 cup of the marinade and set aside.

5. Strain the fish and the vegetables from the marinade. Discard the marinade.

6. Mix the reserved marinade with the mustard and olive oil, whisk well to combine, and season with salt and pepper to taste.

7. Serve the fish and vegetables with a drizzle of the vinaigrette.

I was served this soup in Stockholm for Christmas many years ago by my friend’s mom, Char lotte. It was so good that I spent a few hours translating the recipe from Swedish to English to see what was in it. It was a rustic, creamy chowder with a subtle sweetness from fennel and root vegetables. Then I added my twist, including cornstarch to make it even thicker (the way I like my soups), shrimp for their natural sweetness, and a little bit of cayenne for kick. It was so good that I’ve been known to make it for my family over the holidays, some times more than once!

Scandinavian Fish Soup

SERVES 8

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 fennel bulb, sliced

2 medium carrots, diced

2 medium sweet potatoes, diced

1 parsnip, diced

3 shallots, diced

1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

2 cups dry white wine

1 teaspoon cornstarch

3 cups Fish Stock (see page 70)

1 pound white fish, cubed

1. In a large Dutch oven set over medium-high heat, combine the butter, fennel, carrots, sweet potatoes, parsnip, shallots, and cayenne. Cook until the vegetables are slightly tender, about 10 minutes. Add the wine and let the mixture reduce by half, 5 to 10 minutes.

2. In a small bowl, mix the cornstarch with 1 tablespoon water until fully dissolved.

1/2 pound small shrimp, peeled and deveined

2 pounds mussels, cleaned 1 teaspoon kosher salt 2 cups heavy cream

Chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves, for garnish

3. Add the fish stock, cornstarch slurry, fish, and shrimp to the pot. Simmer on low heat for about 15 minutes, then add the mussels and salt, cover the pot, and simmer until all the mussels have opened up, another 10 minutes. Discard any that have not opened after that time. Right before serving, stir in the cream and gently rewarm the soup over medium-low heat, if needed. Serve with a garnish of parsley on top.

Taiwan

I have been to Taiwan only once, but it made a big impression on me. I was invited there by a group of activists from the Taiwan Sustainable Fishing Association to participate in an awareness campaign following the local government’s decision to ban underwater hunting. The issue the group had was that banning spearfishing altogether was not a solution to the overfishing problem. Rather, it was interfering with many Taiwanese people’s ability to feed their families and make a living while completely missing the issue: commercial overfishing. The group took me out to sea, and I could see the ubiq uity of huge trawlers with fishing nets. I also knew how successful countries includ ing the United States, Canada, Denmark, and New Zealand were with rebuilding their aquatic ecosystems when they put some simple but sweeping guidelines in place for those who do the most fishing. We submitted a report to the Ministry of Environment and Fisheries with our suggestions for regulations of the commercial fisheries and what measures should be taken to improve fish stocks and educate the public, and the government finally backed down. It felt like an important victory in my own work to help advocate for better sustainability practices. And it confirmed that I have been on the right path and that all of my experiences have value. The other thing that’s stayed with me from that trip is how transparent the Taiwan ese sea-to-table culture is. In many restaurants, the fish served on the menu are dis played in giant aquariums. The customer is invited to choose their fish, then the waiter catches it and takes it to the kitchen to be prepared. This is the antithesis of what we do in the West, where we hide the process in which the animal goes from being alive to being food. We see only a prepared dish on a plate. As a result, we forget that our din ner once started as a living creature. That can be difficult to think about as you’re cut ting into your steak, pork chop, or seafood fillet, but if we ever hope to create better and more sustainable farming practices for animals and fish alike, then we also need to open our eyes to where we’re getting our food. This also extends to how much of the animal we use. In Taiwan, like many other places around the world, nothing goes to waste. Just walking through the markets, you see delicacies like chicken feet, turkey necks, pig intestines, and chicken rump skewers. (I tried them and loved them!) But this, too, is a sign of respect for the animal and the effort that went into harvesting it for our consumption.

When I served this dish to my Florida friends, they all looked at me like I was crazy. “This is baitfish,” they said. “We don’t eat that.” Well, they do now. And the whole thing too—tail and head included. Whitebait, along with all kinds of other tiny baitfish, is actually a delicacy in Taiwan, and I can’t get enough of it. The crispy little fish dipped into the yuzu-tarragon mayo (my fancy twist) are so good that it’s like eating chips. And because you are, yes, technically eating baitfish, it’s sustainable and dirt cheap. That is, until the rest of the world gets in on the secret.

Whitebait Chips with Yuzu-Tarragon Mayo

SERVES 4 TO 6

2 cups canola or sunflower oil

2 cups all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons garlic powder

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 cup mayonnaise

1 tablespoon yuzu juice or fresh lime juice

1 tablespoon minced fresh tarragon leaves

1. In a Dutch oven set over medium-high heat, heat the oil until it reaches 350°F. (If you do not have a thermometer, heat the oil until it just starts to smoke.)

2. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, combine the flour, garlic powder, salt, and pepper and whisk well.

3. In a small bowl, combine the mayonnaise, yuzu juice, and tarragon and mix well.

4. Once the oil is hot, add the whitebait to the flour mixture. Toss well to fully coat the fish in flour.

1 pound whitebait fish

1 teaspoon fresh flatleaf parsley, for garnish (optional)

5. Working in batches, place a portion of the fish in the oil and fry for 3 to 4 minutes, until golden brown. Make sure not to overcrowd the pot or else you will reduce the temperature of the oil and the fish will not crisp up. Once cooked, remove the fish from the oil, transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate, and repeat the process with the remaining fish.

6. Serve the fish hot with a sprinkle of the parsley, if desired, and a side of the yuzu-tarragon mayo.

After trying to re-create the explosion of flavors I experienced in Taiwan, I narrowed down my Asian pantry to a few must-have ingredients: Thai lime leaves, galangal, fish sauce, and crispy garlic. They give this soup a pungent and intoxicating effect. I also love making this soup because it’s a great way to use fish carcasses. The pro move is to ask your fishmonger to butcher a whole fish, save the fillets for tomorrow, and use the rest for this recipe.

Asian Fish Soup

SERVES 4

2 small or 1 large fish carcass, broken into pieces

2 (13.5-ounce) cans full-fat coconut milk

3 Thai lime leaves (optional)

1 lemongrass stalk, cut into pieces

1 (2-inch) piece fresh ginger, skin-on

1 (2-inch) piece fresh galangal (optional)

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.

2 tablespoons red curry paste

3 heads baby bok choy

8 ounces cherry tomatoes

8 ounces oyster mushrooms

1 medium yellow onion, diced

1 teaspoon fish sauce

1 (16-ounce) package linguine rice noodles

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 garlic cloves, sliced

2 (8- to 10-ounce) firm white fish fillets, cut into 1-inch cubes

1 fresh red chili, seeded and thinly sliced

1 lime, cut into wedges

1 tablespoon roughly chopped fresh cilantro leaves

2. Place the fish carcasses on a baking sheet and bake until the bones are golden, 20 to 25 minutes.

3. In a large pot, place the fish carcasses, coconut milk, lime leaves (if using), lemongrass, ginger, galangal (if using), red curry paste, and 2 cups water. Set the pot over medium-high heat and, once the soup comes to a simmer, reduce the heat to low. Add the bok choy, cherry tomatoes, oyster mushrooms, onion, and fish sauce, stir, and simmer for about 30 minutes, until the vegetables are tender, the flavors have melded, and everything smells amazing.

4. Meanwhile, cook the noodles in a pot of water according to the package directions.

5. In a small frying pan set over high heat, heat the olive oil, then add the sliced garlic. Gently fry the garlic until golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes, then remove the garlic from the pan to cool.

6. After the soup has simmered for 30 minutes, add the fish fillets and cook for 10 minutes.

7. Divide the noodles among 4 bowls and ladle the soup over the noodles. Garnish each bowl with red chili slices, a lime wedge, cilantro, and fried garlic.

Dumplings are surprisingly easy-peasy to make. You buy the precut frozen wrappers at an Asian market, you watch a short video online about how to roll them, and voilà! You’re a dumpling maker. For the filling, I like using crabmeat, but you can also use leftover lobster or fish meat picked off the bones. To round out this dish, I float the dumplings in a traditional but very simple broth called dashi, which gets a taste of the sea from kombu, or seaweed.

Crab Dumplings in Dashi

SERVES 4 (MAKES 16 DUMPLINGS)

8 ounces crabmeat

1 tablespoon chopped fresh Thai basil

2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives

1 (1-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated

1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

2 cups finely chopped green cabbage

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar

1. In a medium bowl, add the crabmeat, the Thai basil, 1 tablespoon of chives, ginger, red pepper flakes, cabbage, garlic, vinegar, and lemon zest. Mix well to combine.

2. Place 1 tablespoon of the crab mix in the middle of a dumpling wrapper, gather the corners, and twist together at the top to close. Repeat with the remaining crab mix.

Zest of 1 lemon

16 dumpling wrappers

2 tablespoons canola oil

1 recipe Easy Dashi (recipe follows)

3. Heat the oil in a large frying pan over high heat. Once the pan is hot and the oil shimmers, add the dumplings and fry the bottoms. When the dumpling bottoms are golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes, reduce the heat to medium, ladle in 1 cup of the dashi, cover, and steam for 5 minutes.

4. To serve, ladle about 1/2 cup of the dashi into each of 4 bowls, then divide the dumplings between them. Garnish with the remaining 1 tablespoon chives.

easy Dashi

MAKES 11/2 CUPS

1/2 ounce dried kombu 1/2 ounce packed dried bonito flakes

In a large pot set over medium heat, combine 4 cups water and the kombu and simmer the mixture until it reduces by about a third, 30 to 45 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat and add the bonito flakes. Let the dashi stand for 5 minutes, then strain.

I was walking in a food market in Taiwan when I noticed this guy (I mean, he was yelling at me in Chinese—hard to miss), so I approached to see what was cooking (literally). When I saw oysters grilling on the barbecue, my first thought was, Oh boy, that looks like an emergency trip to the bathroom. But I’ve always considered myself game to try new things, so I reluc tantly swallowed the warm oyster after the guy squeezed fresh lime juice over the top. I waited for the gamy, foul flavor to land on my palate, but it never came. On the contrary, the grilling had actually enhanced the oyster’s natural flavor by lending a subtle smokiness. It was probably the best oyster I’ve ever had, which is pretty big coming from an oyster-farm owner and a raw-oyster addict. What I especially love about this recipe is how ridiculously simple it is to re-create at home. You don’t even have to shuck the oysters because they open by themselves from the heat. And all that smoke means you can layer even bigger, bolder flavors with the oysters, like funky blue cheese and hot sauce.

Grilled Oysters with Blue Cheese and Hot Sauce

SERVES 4 TO 8 (MAKES 24 OYSTERS)

4 ounces creamy blue cheese crumbles

2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) unsalted butter, melted

1. Heat a grill to medium-high.

1/4 cup heavy cream 1/4 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce 2 dozen oysters

2. In a small or medium bowl, combine the blue cheese, butter, heavy cream, and Worcestershire sauce. Mix until fairly smooth.

1/2 cup panko bread crumbs

Hot sauce, for serving

3. Open the oysters, spoon about 1 tablespoon of the blue cheese mixture on each oyster, and sprinkle some panko bread crumbs on top. Place the oysters on the grill and cook until bubbling, 8 to 10 minutes, depending on the size of your oysters. Serve with your favorite hot sauce.

Bao are steamed dumplings with a soft, doughy outside and a savory filling, usually braised meat dressed with barbecue sauce. For my fishy version, I call for braising pompano, a hearty fish that can be tough unless it’s cooked low and slow, which works well with this tangy, spicy sauce and the bright pickled onions and mango. In addition to being delicious, bao are super fun to make and are perfect for dinner parties. And if you don’t already have a bamboo steamer, now is the perfect time to get one. Just think of all the dumplings you can make!

Braised Pompano Bao with Red Chili BBQ Sauce

SERVES 6 TO 8 (MAKES 24 BUNS)

1/4 cup olive oil

1/2 red onion, diced

1 red chili, stemmed, seeded, and finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

1 recipe Habanero-Apricot BBQ Sauce (see page 137) or 2 cups store-bought BBQ sauce

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

1/4 cup unpacked dark brown sugar

1 (1-pound) or 2 (1/2 -pound) pompano fillets, cut into 1/2 -inch strips

1. In a large frying pan set over medium-high heat, add the olive oil, red onion, chili, and garlic and sauté until tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the Worcestershire sauce, vinegar, BBQ sauce, mustard, and brown sugar. Stir, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 10 minutes. Stir the fish strips into the BBQ mixture and simmer until the fish is opaque and cooked through, another 10 to 12 minutes.

1 (24-count) package frozen bao buns

1 cup shredded carrot Pickled shallots or red onions, homemade (see page 85) or store-bought Chopped fresh cilantro, for garnish

2. Cook the bao buns according to the package directions.

3. Fill the bao with the BBQ fish strips, shredded carrots, and pickled shallots and garnish with chopped cilantro.

Quebec

For me, Quebec is the base, the starting point. It’s where I’m from and lived most of my life and where I first experienced the excite ment of eating fish that I caught myself. While diving in and around Quebec may not be my favorite—because saltwater hunting is not allowed and the muddy lakes and their poor visibility leave me feeling like I prefer the company of sharks to such murky water—I still look forward to my trips back to the lakes near Saint-Faustin in the Laurentian region, where I spent my childhood weekends. It’s there that I fish for some of the unloved, unsung hero species that live in the shadow of cool-kid trout, including yellow perch and bass. Cooked on a log, they are a real treat! But my favorite local fish, the walleye, is what I consider to be the most delicious of our local species with its extremely tender flesh and mild flavor.

If my passion for food is central to my life, then the cabin in the woods that I grew up visiting is the heart of it. That’s where I devel oped a love for outdoor cooking in the wilderness and evenings spent around a fire, enjoying my first roasted marshmallows. It’s no coincidence that I now associate comfort food with grilling and the smell of meat, fish, garden vegetables, and loaves of bread crackling on the barbecue. These intimate and familiar memories are synonymous with well-being to me. Now when I visit the cot tage, I prepare my menus weeks in advance, taking the opportu nity to try new things on the barbecue and relishing all the flavors of home.

Fat is not the first thing most people think of when they consider fish. Well, I am here to change that. Fish can most certainly be fatty, and when seen that way, it greatly expands the possibilities of what you can do to it. I love treating fish as I would meat, and in this case I’m taking grouper, which has a very high fat content, and curing the belly as I would bacon. And of course I’m going to do that Canadian-style, with plenty of maple syrup and whiskey.

Grouper Belly Bacon with Maple and Whiskey

SERVES 2

1/2 cup kosher salt

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1 pound grouper belly, skin removed

1 tablespoon French 75 spice mix (see page 73)

1/4 cup whiskey

1. In a small bowl, mix together the salt and granulated sugar until combined.

2. In a medium glass container, add half of the salt-sugar mixture, then place the grouper belly on top. Add the remaining salt-sugar mixture on top of the fish. Cover with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator to cure for at least 4 hours, or up to 6 hours.

3. Preheat the oven to 350°F.

4. In a medium saucepan set over medium-high heat, add the spice mix, whiskey, maple syrup, and brown sugar. Cook the mixture, stirring occasionally, until it has reduced by half, 6 to 8 minutes.

1/4 cup pure maple syrup

1 tablespoon unpacked dark brown sugar

5. Remove the grouper belly from the cure, rinse it under cold water, then pat the belly dry with paper towels.

6. Cut the grouper belly into 1/4 -inch-thick slices and place them on a baking sheet. Pour the reduction all over the belly pieces and bake for about 15 minutes. Serve with eggs in the morning or on top of a salad, or just enjoy the “bacon” on its own!

Artic char is salmon’s cool cousin. It’s a special fatty mix between salmon and white fish, a sustainable catch, and really effing yummy. The first time I had confit artic char, or fish that had been cured, then cooked low and slow in tons of garlicky olive oil, I thought I would never be able to find better fish. And I was right. Making confit anything is easy to do and very hard to screw up, and it results in restaurant-quality meat and fish dishes. It works so nicely with sweet garlic confit, this lemony mash, and crunchy fennel salsa, but you can also just enjoy a fillet on its own.

NOTE: This recipe also includes garlic confit, though you won’t need all of it because it’s bet ter to confit the entire bulb. Save the other half for another use; it’ll last up to 4 days in a sealed container in the fridge and is great in pasta or on toast.

Arctic Char Confit with

Parsnip Mash and Fennel Slaw

SERVES 4

1/4 cup sugar

1/4 cup kosher salt

4 skinless arctic char fillets

2 large russet potatoes, diced

4 parsnips, diced

4 cups olive oil

1 whole garlic head, papery skin on, halved (see Note)

Zest and juice of 1 lemon, plus zest of 1/2 lemon

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 fennel bulb, thinly sliced

1. In a small bowl, combine the sugar and salt. Place the fillets in a medium glass dish and cover with the sugar-salt mixture. Cover with plastic wrap and set in the refrigerator for 45 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, add the potatoes and parsnips to a large pot of water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-high and cook until tender, about 15 minutes, then drain off the water and place the potatoes and parsnips back in the pot.

1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

3. Preheat the oven to 135°F.

4. Remove the fillets from the sugar-salt mixture, rinse them in cold water, and pat dry. In a deep baking dish large enough to fit the fillets without overlapping, combine the olive oil, garlic head, and the fish. Place the baking dish in the oven for 45 minutes.

5. While the fish is cooking, make the slaw. In a large bowl, add the lemon zest and lemon juice, extra-virgin olive oil, fennel, dill, salt, and pepper. Toss everything together to combine.

6. Once the fish has finished baking, add the butter, Parmesan, and zest of 1/2 lemon to the potatoes and parsnips. Remove the individual cloves from the head of garlic and place half of them in with the potatoes (see Note). Mash everything together until smooth and creamy.

7. Remove the fish from the oil. Divide the mashed potatoes among 4 plates and place 1 fillet on top of each. Divide the fennel slaw among the plates, placing it on top of the fish.

Cooking a whole fish can seem daunting, but it’s actually pretty easy. Dried-out fish is prob ably your biggest “risk,” but when you add this fennel-and-leek stuffing, you have an insur ance policy for perfectly cooked fish. While you could wrap the fish in foil, which can make grilling a little bit tidier, I prefer to skip it so I can get nice crispy skin. The combination of the juices from the fish and vegetables with the tangy chimichurri and the charred skin is as tasty as it is impressive looking.

Baked Whole Snapper with Spicy Tarragon Chimichurri

SERVES 2

1 whole snapper (about 2 pounds), cleaned and gutted

2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) unsalted butter

1/4 cup sliced fennel

3 to 4 garlic cloves, chopped

1/4 cup sliced leek

11/2 cups spinach (leaves and stems)

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.

1/2 cup dry white wine

1 Meyer lemon, sliced (a “regular” lemon will work here too)

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1/4 cup chopped fresh tarragon

1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint

1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2. Cut three slashes on each side of the fish (see page 290).

3. In a large sauté pan set over medium-high heat, melt the butter. Once the butter begins to foam, add the fennel, 1 or 2 of the chopped garlic cloves, and the leek. Sauté until the fennel is almost tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the spinach and cook until it has

wilted, about 3 minutes. Add the wine, then cook until the wine has evaporated, 4 to 5 minutes.

4. Place the snapper on a baking sheet, then stuff the cavity with the sautéed vegetable mixture and the lemon slices. Bake the fish for 30 to 35 minutes, or until cooked through and an internal temperature of 137°F is reached.

5. While the snapper is baking, place the olive oil, vinegar, tarragon, parsley, mint, the remaining garlic, red pepper flakes, salt, and black pepper in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse until combined but still a little chunky.

6. Serve the snapper with the chimichurri drizzled on top.

Tapenade is a French dip that normally consists of pureed black olives, capers, and ancho vies. In this version, I replaced the black olives with seaweed for a taste of the ocean, used sardines for some extra “meatiness,” and added salicornia (or glasswort, sea beans, or sea asparagus—whatever you’d like to call it), which gives this a salty, crunchy finish. It’s a simple dip that’s easy to whip up for a quick lunch on the go with crackers or to serve as an appe tizer. On several occasions I’ve found myself making a second batch after my guests pol ished off the plate while asking for the recipe.

Seaweed Tapenade with Sardines and Salicornia

MAKES 1 CUP

4 tablespoons dried seaweed or dried nori sheets

1 (3.75-ounce) can oil-packed sardines, drained and roughly chopped 1 shallot, finely chopped

1/4 cup finely chopped fresh shiitake or portobello mushrooms

1 tablespoon salicornia

1 garlic clove, minced 1 tablespoon drained capers

3 cornichons, minced

1. In a small bowl, combine all the ingredients except for the crackers and mix well.

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Saltines or crackers of choice, for serving

2. Transfer the dip to a serving bowl and serve with the crackers of your choice.

My parents have a beautiful cabin in the woods in Quebec. During the very long winters we have up there, I like to cook directly in the fireplace. When researching different ways to cook with fire, I came across a recipe that uses a wet log to “steam” a protein. I tried it with trout, and sure enough, the fish cooked beautifully and had a nice, smoky aftertaste. I like to think of this as “poaching of the wild,” since it requires no oil or fat to cook.

NOTE: This method would also be delicious with fresh sardines.

Maple-Steamed Whole Trout on a Wet Log

SERVES 4

1/2 cup pure maple syrup

4 garlic cloves, minced Zest of 1 lemon, plus 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 bay leaf

1. In a small saucepan set over medium-high heat, add 1/2 cup water, the maple syrup, garlic, lemon zest, lemon juice, salt, pepper, and bay leaf. Whisk everything to combine, then bring the mixture to a boil. Once it starts to boil, take the pot off the heat and let the mixture cool to room temperature, 20 to 30 minutes.

2. Once the mixture has cooled, place the trout in a glass baking dish large enough to fit the fish and the marinade, then pour the liquid mixture over the trout. Cover and place in the refrigerator for 12 to 24 hours.

1 (2- to 3-pound) trout, whole, cleaned, and gutted

Special equipment: fire logs, with at least one flat side

3. Fully submerge the logs you’ll use for cooking in water and soak for 2 hours. After 2 hours, remove the logs from the water and pat them dry.

4. Place the logs over a fire, and once the logs are charred on one side, turn them charred-side up and place the fish on top. Let the fish smoke and cook over the fire until an internal temperature of 145°F is reached and the fish is cooked through, 15 to 20 minutes.

I am obsessed with whelk. It is probably my favorite seafood (gasp, dramatic pause), which is pretty high praise for a sea snail. You can buy whelk already cooked in brine, and you can enjoy them hot or cold. It’s one treat I always bring with me when I go see my mom in Mon treal, and I know better than to eat too many of them myself or else I’ll hear about it. They can be a mouthful, and they have a chewy texture, so they’re not very chic to eat (for those who care, or if you’re on a date or something). I wanted to dress them up a little bit, so I intended to make “fancy” carpaccio, complete with stylish dots of mayo. But let’s be honest, the whelk is so much tastier when generously coated with plenty of spicy, rich mayo rather than those demure little dots. It may not be as pretty, but finished off with the fresh bite of green onions and a pop of dill, it’s what’s inside (your belly) that counts.

NOTE: Cooked whelk can be purchased either frozen or canned; in the United States, it is available at specialty stores or online.

Whelk Carpaccio with Spicy Mayo and Dill

SERVES 2 OR 3

10 ounces cooked whelks (see Note)

1/4 cup mayonnaise

1 tablespoon sriracha or sambal oelek

1 tablespoon fresh lime juice

2 fresh dill sprigs, large stems removed

1. Cut the whelks into slices no more than 1/4 inch thick.

2. In a small bowl, add the mayonnaise, sriracha, and lime juice. Whisk until well combined, then add the sliced whelks and toss to fully coat.

2 green onions, thinly sliced (white and green parts)

2 tablespoons minced fresh chives

Potato chips, for serving

3. Transfer the whelks to a serving bowl and garnish with the dill, green onions, and chives. Serve with your favorite potato chips.

My friend Elliot owns a restaurant in Quebec City named Légende by la Tanière. What’s sin gular about his restaurant is that he exclusively uses products from Quebec. That means no lemon and no olive oil, among other kitchen staples that most people consider essential for cooking. One time when we went camping together, we caught some trout for dinner. I find orange-fleshed fish better raw, so we settled on making a crudo. Then, sticking to his habit of using only local ingredients, Elliot added beet for crunch, plus sumac and pickled onions for their bright acidity. Camping or not, I’ve been making this dish ever since.

Trout Crudo

with Beet, Sumac, and Pickled Pearl

SERVES 4

1/4 cup peeled and chopped beet, cut into 1/8 -inch cubes

1/4 cup apple cider vinegar

1 teaspoon sumac or fresh lemon juice

Pinch of cayenne pepper 1 pound raw trout fillets, cut into 1-inch cubes

1. In a small mixing bowl, combine the beet, vinegar, sumac, and cayenne. Gently whisk everything together and let sit for about 10 minutes.

Onions

1/4 cup drained and halved pickled pearl onions

1 jalapeño, stemmed, seeded, and thinly sliced

2. Place the cubed trout and pearl onions in a medium mixing bowl. Spoon the beet vinaigrette over them. Use tongs to gently toss the mixture together until just combined and the trout is evenly coated. Divide the mixture among 4 small serving plates. Top with the sliced jalapeño and serve.

Sustainable Seafood 101

Despite being highly nutritious and one of the least environmentally impactful foods one can eat, seafood has gotten kind of a bad rap for being complicated. When someone asks me, “What can I eat that is sustainable?” my answer is “How much time do you have?”

With only 66.7 percent of fish and seafood that is landed in the world being sustainably caught, we still have work to do, but that doesn’t mean we should shy away from eating seafood at all. We just have to make better consumption decisions, and the following table aims to help you do that. I based my recommendations on Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch (seafood watch.org) as well as the research and work led by Ray Hilborn at Sustainable Fisheries UW (sustainablefisheries-uw.org).

As you can see, traceability is very important, as the same species could be detrimental to the environment in one location or with one fishing method but not when fished differently elsewhere. Fisheries are one of the most complex food systems in the world, and evaluating and monitoring them is very expensive. Also, it can be difficult to factor in social and ethical aspects (such as work conditions, fish conditions, impact on local economy, etc.). And to add to the complexity, sustain ability has a strong subjective aspect to it. As I like to say, “Tell me what you believe in, and I’ll tell you what to eat.” So think of this table not as an absolute guide but more as the lay of the land (er, sea). Any fish marked “Great choice!” means you really cannot go wrong. “Good choice” fish are also largely safe options, though always read the labels.

Look for eco-labels from the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC), the Aquaculture Steward ship Council (ASC), Naturland, Ocean Wise, Best Aquaculture Practices (BAP), and the Global Seafood Alliance (GSA). Beware of self-proclaimed labels, such as “responsibly sourced,” and consult a reputable guide online in case of doubt.

SPECIES CAN BE EATEN RAW? PROTEIN LEVEL COLD OR WARM WATER? FRESH OR SALT WATER?

THE ORANGE FISH

Artic Char Yes High Cold Fresh

Salmon Farmed only High Cold Both

Trout Farmed only High Cold Fresh

THE WHITE FISH Anchovy Yes High Cold Salt

Amberjack, yellowtail, almaco jack Yes High Cold Salt

Bass (striped) Yes High Both Both

Black sea bass Not recommended (but good for ceviche) High Warm Salt

Bluefish Yes High Warm Salt

Bream (sea bream) Yes Medium Cold Salt

Catfish/carp Not recommended Medium Warm Both

Common carp Not recommended Medium Warm Both Cobia Yes High Warm Salt

Cod (Atlantic) Not recommended High Cold Both Cod (Pacific) Not recommended High Cold Both

Dogfish (spiny) Not recommended High Cold Salt Drum Not recommended Medium Both Both

Flounder Yes Medium Cold Salt

Grouper Not recommended (but good for ceviche) High Warm Both

Haddock Not recommended High Cold Salt Hake Not recommended High Cold Salt

WAYS TO PREPARE

SUSTAINABILITY DETAILS

Sear, bake, grill Great choice!

Sear, bake, fry, grill, poach, raw US wild-caught, wild-certified, farmed-certified

Sear, bake, grill Wild-caught, farmed-certified

Sear, bake, fry, canned, semi-raw, add to sauces Certified. Avoid anchovies from the Mediterranean region.

Bake, broil, poach, sauté, steam, microwave US wild-caught. Almaco farmed in Hawaii and Mexico. Yellowtail farmed in Mexico.

Bake, broil, grill, sauté US wild-caught with handlines and hand-operated pole and lines. Mexico farmed. Avoid US wild-caught with set gill nets or pound nets.

Bake, broil, grill, poach, sauté, steam Good choice

Bake, broil, grill, smoke, raw Good choice caught in US Atlantic

Bake, broil, fry, grill, poach, sauté, smoke, steam Farmed in indoor recirculating tanks with wastewater treatment.

Bake, broil, fry, grill, sauté Certified-farmed, US wild-caught, wild-certified

Bake, broil, fry, grill, sauté US wild-caught

Bake, broil, grill, sauté, smoke US wild-caught (not including the Gulf of Mexico), farmed in marine net pens in Panama or worldwide land-based tanks

Bake, broil, fry, sauté, steam Handline, hand-operated pole and lines in US Georges Bank and Gulf of Maine, certified

Bake, broil, fry, sauté, steam Pacific cod from Alaska and US and Canada West Coast

Bake, broil, fry, grill, sauté, smoke Good choice

Bake, broil, fry, grill, poach, sauté, smoke, steam Good choice

Bake, broil, fry, sauté Alaska, US West Coast, British Columbia, Texas (southern flounder). Arrowtooth, California, Kamchatka, starry, and summer flounder from US (not Mexico), aurora rockfish,blackspotted rockfish, scad

Bake, broil, fry, grill, steam Good, but be aware. Avoid longlines, avoid red grouper, avoid snowy grouper, avoid warsaw (goliath) grouper

Bake, broil, fry, grill, poach, sauté, smoke, steam US wild-caught (but by-catch concerns). Certified.

Bake, broil, fry, sauté US wild-caught. Avoid red hake caught in US Mid-Atlantic and white hake from Canada.

SPECIES CAN BE EATEN RAW? PROTEIN LEVEL COLD OR WARM WATER? FRESH OR SALT WATER?

THE WHITE FISH (continued)

Halibut Not recommended High Cold Salt

Herrings Yes High Cold Both Hogfish Yes High Warm Salt

Lingcod Not recommended Medium Cold Salt

Lionfish and firefish Yes High Warm Salt

Mackerel (Spanish, cero, Atlantic) Yes High Cold Salt

Mahi mahi Yes High Warm Salt

Meagre (corvina) yes High Both Salt

Mullet Yes High Warm Both

Milkfish Not recommended Medium Warm Both

Monkfish Yes Medium Cold Salt

Perch Yes Low Cold Fresh

Pike Not recommended High Cold Fresh

Plaice Yes Medium Cold Salt

Pompano (farmed) Yes High Warm Salt Pollock Not recommended High Cold Salt

Redfish Not recommended Low Cold Salt

Rockfish Not recommended High Cold Both

Sablefish, black cod Yes High Cold Salt Sanddab Not recommended High Cold Salt

Sardines Yes High Both Both Sole Yes Medium Cold Salt

European sea bass (branzino) Yes High Both Salt

WAYS TO PREPARE

SUSTAINABILITY DETAILS

Bake, broil, grill, poach, sauté, steam Farmed in indoor recirculating tanks with wastewater treatment. Avoid New England halibut.

Bake, broil, fry, grill, poach, smoke US or Canada

Bake, broil, fry, grill, poach, smoke Speared and pole and line hogfish from Gulf of Mexico. Avoid all US Atlantic.

Sear, bake, fry, canned, semi-raw, add to sauces US wild-caught and British Columbia wild-caught

Bake, broil, grill, poach, sauté, steam Great choice!

Bake, broil, fry, grill, poach, smoke US-caught mackerel, apart from Atlantic mackerel caught in US and Canada

Bake, broil, fry, grill, poach, sauté US caught

Bake, broil, fry, grill, poach, sauté, smoke, steam Farmed in indoor recirculating tanks with wastewater treatment. Avoid farmed from Egypt, Turkey, and the EU.

Bake, fry, grill, sauté, smoke Striped mullet wild-caught US Atlantic and US Gulf of Mexico

Bake, broil, fry, grill, poach, sauté, smoke, steam Certified

Bake, broil, fry, grill, poach, sauté Certified from MSC and ISF Iceland Anglerfish Fishery

Bake, fry, poach, sauté, steam Good choice

Bake, broil, fry, grill, poach, sauté Certified. Avoid Canadian Northern Pike.

Bake, broil, fry, sauté MSC certified

Bake, broil, fry, grill, sauté US wild-caught, farmed in closed tanks

Bake, broil, fry, sauté, steam Alaska wild-caught, certified

Bake, broil, fry, grill, poach, sauté Good choice

Bake, fry, poach, sauté, steam US wild-caught, certified. Avoid Canadian rockfish.

Bake, broil, grill, sauté, smoke, steam US West Coast, farmed from British Columbia

Bake, broil, fry, grill, sauté US West Coast

Fry, sauté, canned Pacific sardines, MSC certified

Bake, broil, fry, sauté US West Coast wild-caught, British Columbia. Farmed in indoor tanks with waste water treatment.

Bake, broil, fry, grill, poach, steam Farmed in indoor recirculating tanks with wastewater treatment. Avoid farmed from Egypt, Turkey, and the EU.

SPECIES CAN BE EATEN RAW? PROTEIN LEVEL COLD OR WARM WATER? FRESH OR SALT WATER?

THE WHITE FISH (continued)

Scup (porgy) Yes High Warm Salt

Smelt Not recommended Medium Cold Both

Snapper Yes High Cold Salt

Shark Yes High Both Salt

Sturgeon Not recommended Medium Cold Fresh

Swordfish Yes High Both Salt

Tilapia Yes High Warm Both

Tilefish Not recommended High Warm Salt

Turbot Yes High Both Salt

Toothfish (Chilean sea bass) Yes Medium Cold Salt

Triggerfish Yes High Both Salt

Wahoo Yes High Both Salt

Walleye Not recommended High Cold Fresh

Whitefish Not recommended High Cold Fresh

Wreckfish Yes Medium Cold Salt

Whiting Yes High Cold Salt

THE RED FISH

Tuna Yes High Both Salt

Bonito Yes High Cold Salt

WAYS TO PREPARE

SUSTAINABILITY DETAILS

Bake, fry, grill, sauté, steam US Atlantic

Bake, broil, fry, grill, sauté, smoke Wild-caught rainbow smelt from the Great Lakes. Avoid Canada's Gulf of St. Lawrence and California.

Bake, broil, grill, poach, sauté, steam US wild-caught. Avoid US Atlantic red snapper and lane snapper from US Gulf of Mexico.

Bake, broil, grill, sauté, steam US dogfish, Hawaiian short-fin mako shark

Broil, grill, poach, sauté, smoke Good choice

Bake, broil, grill, smoke US wild-caught. Avoid imported swordfish caught with drift longlines and drift gillnets.

Bake, broil, sauté, steam Good choice. Avoid tilapia from China.

Bake, broil, fry, poach, sauté US wild-caught. Blue tilefish caught in US Atlantic is a first choice.

Bake, poach, sauté, steam Good choice

Bake, broil, fry, grill, poach, sauté, steam Certified, wild-caught from Prince Edward Island. Avoid Chilean sea bass from Chile.

Bake, broil, fry, grill, poach, sauté, smoke, steam US wild-caught gray triggerfish. Avoid queen triggerfish.

Bake, broil, fry, grill, poach, sauté, smoke, steam US wild-caught

Bake, broil, fry, grill, poach, sauté US and Canada wild-caught. Avoid wild-caught in Lake Superior's Wisconsin waters and Canada's Lakes Manitoba, Winnipeg, and Winnipegosis

Bake, broil, fry, grill, poach, sauté, steam US and Canada wild-caught. Avoid wild-caught in Lake Superior's Wisconsin waters.

Bake, broil, fry, grill, poach, sauté, smoke, steam US Atlantic caught

Bake, broil, fry, grill, poach, sauté Certified only

Broil, grill, sauté, raw Canned tuna: If the label states free school, pole-and-line, school-caught, troll-caught, or FAD-free. US wild-caught for Atlantic-caught albacore and yellowfin tuna. US wildcaught in the Pacific Ocean for albacore, bigeye, skipjack, or yellowfin tuna. For imported tuna, look for albacore, bigeye, skipjack, and yellowfin in Atlantic or Pacific Ocean (not Indian Ocean!) caught with handline, pole-and-line, trolling lines, and FAD-free purse seines (large fishing nets). Avoid if you don't know the fishing method or if it's farmed.

Bake, broil, fry, grill, poach, sauté Good choice

SPECIES CAN BE EATEN RAW? PROTEIN LEVEL COLD OR WARM WATER? FRESH OR SALT WATER?

SEAFOOD

Barnacle Yes High Cold Salt

Calamari, squid Yes high Both Salt

Clams (farmed) Yes Medium Both Both

Cockles Yes Low Cold Salt Conch Yes High Warm Salt

Crabs Not recommended High Cold Salt

Crayfish Not recommended Medium Cold Fresh

Mussels Yes Medium Both Both Lobster Yes High Both Salt

Octopus Yes Medium Both Salt

Oysters Yes Low Cold Salt Seaweed Yes Low Both Salt

Scallops (farmed) Yes High Both Salt

Skate, rays Not recommended High Both Salt

Shrimp (US farmed) Yes High Both Both Whelks Yes High Cold Salt

Caviar Yes Low N/A N/A

Sea urchin Yes Low Both Salt

WAYS TO PREPARE

SUSTAINABILITY DETAILS

Boil, fry, poach, sauté Good choice

Fry, grill, sauté

California wild-caught, certified. Avoid squid from Argentina, China (except jumbo squid), India, Indonesia, Japan, and Thailand.

Bake, boil, fry, grill, poach, steam Good choice

Grill, poach, smoke, steam Good choice

Bake, broil, fry, grill, poach, sauté Honduras, Virgin Islands, Puerto Rico. Avoid conch from Belize, Nicaragua, the Bahamas, or Turks and Caicos.

Bake, broil, steam Wild-caught US West Coast and Alaska. Imported from Mexico, Norway, and Sri Lanka. Blue crab from Alabama, Delaware, New Jersey, and Maryland's Chesapeake Bay waters. Atlantic rock crab. Northwest Atlantic (apart from Gulf of Maine and Bay of Fundy) Jonah crab. Certified crab: US and Canada dungeness crab. Certified and wild-caught US and Canada snow crab (avoid Russia unless certified).

Boil, fry, poach, sauté US farmed and wild-caught

Broil, sauté, smoke, steam Good choice

Bake, broil, grill, poach, sauté, steam US wild-caught (apart from southern New England). Imported from Canada and Caribbean. Spiny lobster from the Bahamas.

Boil, fry, grill, sauté, US wild-caught, imported wild-caught with jigs, traps, or pots from Portugual, Senegal, and Spain. Giant Pacific octopus from Canada. Certified.

Bake, fry, grill, sauté, smoke, steam Good choice apart from eastern oysters caught in New York.

Fry, grill, sauté Great choice!

Bake, broil, fry, grill, sauté, steam Good choice

Bake, fry, poach, sauté Sustainable

Boil, broil, grill, sauté, steam

Certified. US wild-caught Alaska and US West Coast. Bottom trawler-caught in US Atlantic and US Gulf of Mexico. Skimmer trawler-caught from Florida. Imported from Canada. Farmed whiteleg from the US, Ecuador, Honduras, and Thailand. Giant freshwater prawns from Bangladesh, giant tiger prawns farmed in Myanmar.

Bake, broil, fry, grill, poach, sauté, smoke, steam Certified.

Pâté, raw Good choice

Bake, sauté, steam, raw Dived red sea urchin from Alaska, California, Oregon, and Washington; green or red sea urchin from British Columbia; green sea urchin from Atlantic Canada. Avoid sea urchin from Maine.

Fish Preparation Techniques, illustrated

1 2

Using a filleting knife (or any knife with a flexible blade), make an incision from the mid-belly to the head.

Detach the meat by cutting along the spine. (Your knife should be on top of the bones.)

3 4

Cut all the way to the tail, by sliding your knife against the bones.

Flip the fish over and cut the other side by sliding your knife from the tail to the belly. (Your knife should still be on top of the bones, using them as a guide.)

5 6

Make an incision across the tail.

Lift the fillet by holding the meat and cutting on top of the bones all the way to the head.

7 8

Ta-dah, you lifted a fillet!

EPA r AT i ON TECHN i QUES, i LLUST r ATED Filleting

Make a small cut at the complete end of the fillet and place your knife between the skin and the meat. Hold the skin firmly and slide your knife all the way to the other end.

Now you have a skinned and cleaned fillet. 9 10

Remove the rib and belly with a knife. (They will have a different color and you should feel bones in them.)

Scaling

THERE ARE 4 WAYS TO SCALE A FISH:

1

With a spoon, scrape the scales from the tail toward the head.

3

With a fish scaler, scrape the scales from the tail toward the head.

2

With a knife, gently slice the scales away (you should not see flesh, but a white layer will remain).

4

With a knife (ideally serrated), scrape the scales from the tail toward the head.

Gutting

3 1 2 4

Insert your knife into the fish pooper and gently slice all the way to the gills, being careful not to pierce the organs.

Using your hands, spread the belly open.

Grab the gills and pull them (all the guts should follow).

EPA r AT i ON TECHN i QUES, i LLUST r ATED

Maximum-Yield Fish Processing

1 2

Gut the fish according to the instructions on page 287.

Detach the head of the fish from the body. (The collar should stay with the body.)

3 4

You will see a little pointy bone sticking out. Make sure you cut behind it.

Fillet according to the instructions on page 286, starting from the head all the way to the tail.

5 6

Lift the fillet, making sure the head is completely detached.

Using scissors, cut the ribs, so they lift with the fillet.

Continue filleting. 7

8

9

10

Go below the rib cage and cut the fillets off on both sides.

11

You will have 2 regular fillets (and the belly of the fish). Set the fillets aside.

12

Cut the belly in half.

15

Trim the big bone left on the wings.

13

Starting from the opposite side of the collar, cut the belly in half, leaving the collar bone intact.

16

Using a knife, clean the slimy parts of the belly.

14

With your thumbs, separate the two pieces gently. The bone should slide with the top belly part (not the wing).

17

You now have 2 bellies and 2 wings, in addition to 2 fillets—all the tasty bits, and you’ve also increased your yield by a good 30 percent!

1

Cut the steak about 1.5 inch thick.

Steaks (Darnes)

2

3

Using a filleting knife (or any knife with a flexible blade), trim any flesh from the bottom, but leave 1 flap of skin on either side, about 1 inch long.

4

Use the flaps to close the steak around itself.

5

Using a piece of cooking string, tie the flaps together.

Sashimi

FOR SALMON :

Using a sharp knife, cut the fish against the grain, parallel to the grain.

EPA r AT i ON TECHN i QUES, i LLUST r ATED Fish

FOR TUNA:

Using a sharp knife, cut the fish against the grain, perpendicular to the grain.

Scoring

Using a sharp knife, cut the fish 4 to 5 times about halfway through the bone depth-wise. It will help the fish cook more evenly. (Stuff the cracks with butter, if desired.)

Acknowledgments

To everyone who believed in me when I said, “I want to quit everything to become a spear fisherwoman,” even when it wasn’t even a real job.

To my husband, Nabil, for your continuous support. #TeamThomali!

To my family, who supported me, tested all my recipes, even when they didn’t want to. (They know better than to refuse free food.)

To all the strong and impressive women I ever had in my life: both of my grandmoth ers, my mom, my sister, my dear friends Dominique, Jessiann, and Bri. You made me feel normal to be abnormal.

To Caitlin Leffel (editing and content), whom I harassed way too often with my per fectionism. This book wouldn’t be as extraor dinary without you.

To Andrew Thomas Lee, for exceeding all of my expectations in photographing and help ing (massively) to create the most beautiful cookbook I’ve ever seen. And to Thomas, Tori, and Angela, for their extremely hard work at making my food look prettier than I would.

To John Kowitz, for the beautiful underwa ter photos that sometimes, often almost killed us, but oh so worth it.

And Tyler Sharp, Rui Rodrigues, Danny Gonzalez, Ricardo Nascimento, for the beautiful photos over the years.

To Ashley Tucker, who beautifully put to gether this book and created a design that met my wildest dreams.

To Amanda Englander, Union Square’s edi torial director, who pushed me to create a masterpiece.

To Janis Donnaud, my agent, for being my shield and an absolute beast of a woman. (A statement to which you will probably answer “ok.”)

To Rachel Holtzman, who I’m sure cursed more than once at my pidgin English. (I tried, I promise.)

To Bri Van Scotten, Elliot Beaudoin, and Marilou Lemay, for helping to perfect my sometimes weird recipe ideas.

To all the readers ready to push their bound aries culinary-wise—particular shoutout to the ones who tried the fish milt and pickled eyes.

Honolulu, Hawaii

index

Note: Page numbers in italics indicate photos and illustrations. Page numbers in bold indicate seafood species facts (edible raw or not, protein level, waters found in, preparation options, sustainability details).

A

Africa. See Cape Verde; South Africa

Aguachile, about, 67

Aguachile with Serrano Pepper, Kiwi, and Fried Quinoa, 185–187

Almaco jack, 276–277

Amberjack about, 276–277; belly, 44; raw (See Raw fish); roe, 43

Amberjack Gravlax, 234 Amberjack Rack of Ribs, 128–129

other recipe options, 96–97, 108–109, 117, 198–199

Anatomy, fish. See Preparation, cuts/bits, appealing characteristics, and techniques

Anchovy about, 276–277; canning, 54; safe mercury level, 24

Canned Anchovy Pasta with Capers, Red Pepper Flakes, and Lemon, 162, 163

other recipes with, 107, 201

Apricot, in Habanero-Apricot BBQ Sauce, 135–137, 136

Arctic char about, 276–277; cooking temperatures, 58; raw (See Raw fish)

Arctic Char Confit with Parsnip Mash and Fennel Slaw, 258–260

Fish Sausage with Shrimp Chunks, 82–83

Asian Fish Soup, 246–247

Asian Mignonette, 208

B

Baby Scallop Ceviche with Kohlrabi and Pineapple, 68, 122, 123

Bacon, grouper belly, 256, 257 Bagna Cauda, 201

Bougna (Swordfish Stew), 226, 227 Bahama Mama spice mix, 73 Bahamas

about: life and fish in, 91 Lobster Tartare with Fried Capers and Sun-Dried Tomato Vinaigrette, 92–93

Messy Sushi Board, 96–97 Wahoo Tataki with Herb Sauce and Cucumber, 94, 95

Whole Fried Lionfish with IPA Mayo, 48, 98, 99

Baked Whole Snapper with Spicy Tarragon Chimichurri, 261–263

Baking fish (including recipes list), 51–52 Bao. See Dumplings Barnacle, 282–283 Basket, fish grill, 50 Bass (striped), 103, 276–277 See also Raw fish; Sea bass BBQ sauce, habanero-apricot, 137 Beans, in Fish Skin Chicharrónes with Black Bean Dip, 174–175 Beet, trout crudo with, 270–271 Belly (toro), 44, 285

Best Tartar sauce in the Whole Universe and Beyond, 211 Beurre Blanc, 88, 89

Big Fish Roast with Fumet Sauce and Kohlrabi, 224–225 Black Bean Dip, 174 Black sea bass, 276–277. See also Sea bass Bluefish, 42, 276–277

Bones and bone marrow, 44, 70–71, 177, 246–247

Bonito about, 280–281 Easy Dashi, 249 Smoky Mezcal-Yuzu Ponzu, 71–72 Braai, 80, 81

Braised Pompano Bao with Red Chili BBQ Sauce, 252, 253 Bread and toast

Cajun Fried Catfish on Jalapeño Corn Bread, 198–199

Mackerel Toast with Charred Cherry Tomatoes and Pickled Shallots, 84, 85

Mamie’s Fish Soup with Rouille Toasts, 144, 145

Snapper Panzanella with Grapefruit, 114–115

Bream (sea bream), 62, 63, 65, 66, 67, 276–277

Brining and pickling, 55 Brown Butter and Rosemary Dipping Sauce, 149 Burgers, fish, 209–211, 210

Buttermilk Fried Fish and Pancakes with Jalapeño Honey, 191–192

C

Cajun Fried Catfish on Jalapeño Corn Bread, 198–199

Calamari, squid about, 282–283; raw (See Raw fish); safe mercury level, 24

Seafood Salad with Sumac and Sweet Peas, 140, 141

California, 111–119 about: diving in, 111 Salt Block–Seared Fish, 116, 117 Salt-Crusted Whole Fish, 112, 113

Snapper Panzanella with Grapefruit, 114–115

Tater Tots with Smoked Mackerel Crème Fraîche and Caviar, 118–119 Canned Anchovy Pasta with Capers, Red Pepper Flakes, and Lemon, 162, 163

Canned Sardines Poke Bowl, 166, 167

Canning/canned fish (including recipes list), 54

Capers, recipes featuring, 92–93, 153, 163, 164

Cape Verde, 101–109 about: spearfishing in, 101 Cobia Potpie, 104–105 Fish Puttanesca, 106, 107 Sashimi with Ginger and Soy, 108–109

Trout Mi-Cuit, 102, 103 Carpaccio, 66, 269

Catching fish gently killing (ikejime) and, 32–33, 35 storing after, 35–36 Catfish (carp), 24, 42, 276–277 See also Raw fish

Caviar about, 282–283; roe and, 43

Caviar Cod with Smoked Oyster Sauce, 216–217

Tater Tots with Smoked Mackerel Crème Fraîche and Caviar, 118–119

Ceviche and recipe, 65, 123 Champagne and Tabasco Granita, 208 Charcuterie board, 150, 151–155, 154. See also Scandinavian Smorgasbord Cheeks, 42, 285

Chicharrónes, fish skin, 174–175

Chilean sea bass (toothfish), 280–281 Chimichurri Mayo, 183 Chimichurri, spicy tarragon, 261–263 Chips, whitebait, 244, 245 Citrus

Grapefruit Ponzu, 71 Lemon–Cream Cheese Sauce, 180 Skinny Chili, Ginger, and Clementine Tacos, 181 Snapper Panzanella with Grapefruit, 114–115

Clams about, 282–283; canning, 54; farming advantages, 31–32; oysters and, 215; raw (See Raw fish)

Grilled Clams with Butter, Garlic, and Parsley, 146–147 recipes with clam juice, 212, 224

Seafood Boil in a Bag, 193–195

Steamed Giant Clams with Lobster Bisque and Aged Cheddar, 214, 215

Coals, cooking on, 50 Cobia

about, 276–277

Cobia Potpie, 104–105

Jerk Cobia with Butter-Baked Sweet Potatoes, 80, 81 other recipe options, 117, 198–199 Cockles, 282–283 Cod. See also Sablefish, black cod about: Atlantic and Pacific, 276–277; healthy fats and, 22; liver, 45, 155; raw, 62; safe mercury level, 24; skin, 42–43

Caviar Cod with Smoked Oyster Sauce, 216–217 other recipe options, 81, 198–199, 209, 212

Cold-smoking fish, 56 Collars and heads, 42 Conch, 282–283 See also Raw fish Confit fish, 59, 258–260

Cooking fish (techniques and related recipes), 49–59. See also Soups and stews baking, 51–52 canning/canned fish, 54 confit, 59 dry aging, 55 en papillote, 58 frying, 50 grilling and coals, 49–50 microwave, 59 mi-cuit, 57 oil curing, 54–55 pickling and brining, 55 poaching, 51 roasting, 57, 224–225 salt(ing), 52 searing, 54 smoking (cold and hot), 56–57 sous vide, 58 steaming, 51

Corn bread, jalapeño, 198–199 Corn Chowder, 212–213

Crab about, 282–283; raw (See Raw fish); safe mercury level, 24 Crab Dumplings in Dashi, 248, 249 Crayfish, 24, 282–283

Cream cheese sauce, lemon, 180 Crispy Halibut with Yogurt Achiote, Fingerling Potatoes, and Chorizo, 172, 173 Crudo and recipe, 62–63, 270–271

Cucumbers

Salmon Belly Tacos with Pickled Cucumber and Lemon–Cream Cheese Sauce, 180–181 Wahoo Tataki with Herb Sauce and Cucumber, 94, 95 Curing fish, 52, 56, 231, 234 Cuts and bits. See Preparation, cuts/bits, appealing characteristics, and techniques

D

Dairy, 75 Dashi, crab dumplings in, 248, 249 Dill

Dill Hollandaise Sauce, 134 Dill-Pickled Perch with Pumpernickel, Radishes, and Herb Sour Cream, 235

Spicy Dill Yogurt, 219 Spicy Mayo and Dill, 269 Dogfish (spiny), 276–277 Drum, 276–277 Dry aging fish, 55 Dumplings

Braised Pompano Bao with Red Chili BBQ Sauce, 252, 253 Crab Dumplings in Dashi, 248, 249

e

Eating seafood about: overview of, 19 brain food benefits, 21–22 case for, 21–27 mercury and, 22–24 Eggs

Smoked Salmon and Turkish Egg Breakfast, 156–157

Snapper Tartare with Cured Quail Egg and Chimichurri Mayo, 182, 183–184

Swordfish Eggs Benedict with Dill Hollandaise, 132–134, 133 En papillote, 58 Escabeche, halibut, 238–239 European sea bass (branzino), 278–279 See also Sea bass Eyes, 44, 237, 285

f

Farmed vs. wild fish, 31–32 Fennel Slaw, 258–260 Filleting, 286 See also maximum-yield processing

Fillets, 39, 285

Fingers, fish, 218, 219

Firefish, 278–279

Fish Charcuterie Board, 150, 151–155, 154

Fish Fingers with Spicy Dill Yogurt, 218, 219

Fish Fumet, 70–71

Fish Head Nachos, 126, 127

Fish Puttanesca, 106, 107

Fish Sausage with Shrimp Chunks, 82–83

Fish Skin Chicharrónes with Black Bean Dip, 174–175

Fish steaks (darnes), 46, 290

Fish Stock, 70. See also Dashi; Fish Fumet

Fish Trim Nuggets with Habanero-Apricot BBQ Sauce, 135–137, 136

Fish Wings with Herb Pesto Dip, 202–203 Florida, 121–137

about: fish in, 121

Amberjack Rack of Ribs, 128–129

Baby Scallop Ceviche with Kohlrabi and Pineapple, 68, 122, 123

Fish Head Nachos, 126, 127

Fish Milt Bites, 130, 131

Fish Trim Nuggets with HabaneroApricot BBQ Sauce, 135–137, 136

Grouper Heads with Ponzu Butter, 124–125

Swordfish Eggs Benedict with Dill Hollandaise, 132–134, 133

Flounder, 276–277 France, 139–159

about: intimate relationship with foods and, 129

Fish Charcuterie Board, 150, 151–155, 154

Grilled Clams with Butter, Garlic, and Parsley, 146–147

Grilled Whole Stuffed Fish with Sun-Dried Tomatoes, Feta, and Herb Butter, 158, 159

“Leftover” Fish Headcheese with Tarragon and Capers, 153

Mamie’s Fish Soup with Rouille Toasts, 144, 145

Mussels Éclade with Brown Butter and Rosemary Dipping Sauce, 148, 149

Mussels, Two Ways, 142–143

Rillettes Charentaises, 152

Smoked Salmon and Turkish Egg Breakfast, 156–157

Snapper Roe Bottarga, 154, 155

Freezing fish, 26–27, 36, 61, 62

French 75 spice mix, 73 Freshness of fish, 24–27 determining, 24 fresh vs. frozen pros/cons, 25–27 grocery shopping and, 30–31, 37, 61

Frozen fish, pros/cons and cooking, 26–27. See also Freezing fish Frying fish (including recipes list), 50 Fumet, fish, 70–71 Fumet Sauce, 224

g

Granita, champagne and Tabasco, 208 Grapefruit. See Citrus

Gravlax, about, 52 Gravlax, amberjack, 52 Gremolata Japanese Mayo, 178 Grilled Clams with Butter, Garlic, and Parsley, 146–147 Grilled Lobster, 222, 223 Grilled Oysters with Blue Cheese and Hot Sauce, 250–251 Grilled Whole Stuffed Fish with Sun-Dried Tomatoes, Feta, and Herb Butter, 158, 159 Grilling and coals, 49–50 Grilling mat, 49 Grocery shopping, 30–31, 37, 61 Grouper about, 276–277; baking, 51–52; belly, 44; cold-smoking, 56; heads and collars, 42, 127; liver, 45; raw, 62; roe, 43; skin, 42 Grouper Belly Bacon with Maple and Whiskey, 256, 257 Grouper Heads with Ponzu Butter, 124–125

other recipe options, 81, 127, 153, 174–175

Gummy Bears, scale, 204, 205 Gutting, 287

h

Habanero-Apricot BBQ Sauce, 137 Haddock, 24, 62, 276–277 Hake, 24, 276–277

Halibut, 278–279 about: liver, 45; raw (See Raw fish); skin, 42

Crispy Halibut with Yogurt Achiote, Fingerling Potatoes, and Chorizo, 172, 173 Halibut Escabeche, 238–239 other recipe options, 191, 198–199, 209

Harissa, tuna nigiri with, 168–169 Headcheese, 153

Heads and collars (including recipes list), 42, 285

Herb Pesto Dip, 202–203 Herbs and spices, 73 Herb Sauce, 95 Herb Sour Cream, 235 Herring, 278–279 Hogfish, 278–279 Hot-smoking fish, 56–57

I

Ikejime (killing fish), 32–33

J

Jalapeño Corn Bread, 198–199

Jalapeño Honey, 191

Jerk Cobia with Butter-Baked Sweet Potatoes, 80, 81

k

Killing fish (ikejime), 32–33

Kingfish Wellingtons, mini, 86–89, 87–88 King mackerel, 62 Kohlrabi

Baby Scallop Ceviche with Kohlrabi and Pineapple, 68, 122, 123

Big Fish Roast with Fumet Sauce and Kohlrabi, 224–225

L

“Leftover” Fish Headcheese with Tarragon and Capers, 153

Lemon–Cream Cheese Sauce, 180 Lingcod, 278–279 Lionfish about, 278–279

Whole Fried Lionfish with IPA Mayo, 48, 98, 99 Liver, 45 Lobster about, 282–283; leftovers in dumplings, 249; raw (See Raw fish); safe mercury level, 24

Grilled Lobster, 222, 223

Lobster Bisque, 228–229

Lobster Tartare with Fried Capers and Sun-Dried Tomato Vinaigrette, 92–93

Steamed Giant Clams with Lobster Bisque and Aged Cheddar, 214, 215

Log (wet), trout steamed on, 266–267

Louisiana, 189–205

about: food and hunting tuna in, 189

Buttermilk Fried Fish and Pancakes with Jalapeño Honey, 190, 191–192

Cajun Fried Catfish on Jalapeño Corn Bread, 198–199

Fish Wings with Herb Pesto Dip, 202–203

Grilled Shrimp with Bagna Cauda, 200, 201

Scale Gummy Bears, 204, 205 Seafood Boil in a Bag, 193–195 Tuna Tomahawk with Salsa Verde, 196, 197

m

Mackerel about, 278–279; healthy fats and, 22; raw (See Raw fish); safe mercury level, 24; skin, 42, 43

Mackerel Toast with Charred Cherry Tomatoes and Pickled Shallots, 84, 85

Tater Tots with Smoked Mackerel Crème Fraîche and Caviar, 118–119 Mahi mahi about, 278–279; raw (See Raw fish) other recipe options, 117, 212–213, 219

Rillettes Charentaises, 152 Mamie’s Fish Soup with Rouille Toasts, 144, 145

Maple-Steamed Whole Trout on a Wet Log, 266–267 Marinades, rubs, and seasonings, 72–75 Marshall Islands, 161–169 about: sustainable fish industry, 161 Canned Anchovy Pasta with Capers, Red Pepper Flakes, and Lemon, 162, 163

Canned Sardines Poke Bowl, 166, 167 Sardine Potato Salad with Capers and Celery, 164–165

Tuna Nigiri with Rice Cakes and Harissa, 168–169

Maximum-yield processing, 288–289

Mayo. See Sauces and dips Meagre, 278–279 Mercury levels, 22–24 Messy Sushi Board, 96–97 Mexico, 171–187

about: fish cuisine and eateries, 171 Aguachile with Serrano Pepper, Kiwi, and Fried Quinoa, 185–187

Crispy Halibut with Yogurt Achiote, Fingerling Potatoes, and Chorizo, 172, 173

Fish Bone Marrow, 176, 177

Fish Skin Chicharrónes with Black Bean Dip, 174–175 Fish Tacos, Three Ways, 178–181, 179 Snapper Tartare with Cured Quail Egg and Chimichurri Mayo, 182, 183–184

Microwaving fish, 59 Mi-cuit, 57, 103 Milkfish, 278–279 Milt (sperm), 45, 131

Mini Kingfish Wellingtons with Mustard-Tarragon Stuffing and Beurre Blanc, 86–89, 87–88 Monkfish, 42, 45, 278–279 Mullet, 43, 155, 278–279

Mussels

about, 282–283; farming advantages, 31–32; raw (See Raw fish)

Mussels Éclade with Brown Butter and Rosemary Dipping Sauce, 148, 149 Mussels, Two Ways, 142–143 Scandinavian Fish Soup, 240, 241 Seafood Salad with Sumac and Sweet Peas, 140, 141 Mustard-Tarragon Stuffing, 86–87

N

Nachos, fish head, 126, 127 Nelson, Mike, 39, 205 New Caledonia, 221–229 about: memorable moments, sharks and, 221

Big Fish Roast with Fumet Sauce and Kohlrabi, 224–225 Grilled Lobster, 222, 223 Lobster Bisque, 228–229 Swordfish Stew (Bougna), 226, 227 New York, 207–219

about: fishing and relaxing in, 207

The Best Tartar sauce in the Whole Universe and Beyond, 211

Caviar Cod with Smoked Oyster Sauce, 216–217

Corn Chowder, 212–213

Fish Fingers with Spicy Dill Yogurt, 218, 219

Oysters, Three Ways (Raspberry Vinegar Mignonette; Champagne and Tabasco Granita; Asian Mignonette), 208

Steamed Giant Clams with Lobster Bisque and Aged Cheddar, 214, 215

The Ultimate Fish Burgers, 209–211, 210 Nordic Summer spice mix, 73

O

Octopus, 282–283 See also Raw fish Oil curing, 54–55 Oils, 74 Oysters

about, 282–283; clams and, 215; farming advantages and farms, 31–32, 139, 215, 216; raw (See Raw fish); safe mercury level, 24

Caviar Cod with Smoked Oyster Sauce, 216–217

Grilled Oysters with Blue Cheese and Hot Sauce, 250–251

Oysters, Three Ways (Raspberry Vinegar Mignonette; Champagne and Tabasco Granita; Asian Mignonette), 208

P

Pancakes, buttermilk fried fish and, 190, 191–192

Paper, cooking fish in (en papillote), 58

Parsnips, in Arctic Char Confit with Parsnip Mash and Fennel Slaw, 258–260 Pasta and noodles Asian Fish Soup, 246–247

Canned Anchovy Pasta with Capers, Red Pepper Flakes, and Lemon, 162, 163

Peas, seafood salad with, 140, 141 Perch about, 278–279; skin, 42–43

Dill-Pickled Perch with Pumpernickel, Radishes, and Herb Sour Cream, 235

Pickled Cucumbers, 180–181 Pickled Fish Eyes, 236, 237

Pickling and brining (including recipes list), 55 Pike, 22, 278–279

Pineapple, ceviche with, 68, 122, 123 Plaice, 278–279

Poaching fish, 51, 241, 246–247

Poke bowl, canned sardines, 166, 167 Pollock, 24, 62, 81, 209, 278–279

Pompano about, 278–279; raw (See Raw fish)

Braised Pompano Bao with Red Chili BBQ Sauce, 252, 253

Ponzu, 71–72, 124

Pooper, 285, 287

Porgy (scup), 280–281 See also Raw fish

Potatoes and parsnips

Arctic Char Confit with Parsnip Mash and Fennel Slaw, 258–260

Crispy Halibut with Yogurt Achiote, Fingerling Potatoes, and Chorizo, 172, 173

Sardine Potato Salad with Capers and Celery, 164–165

Tater Tots with Smoked Mackerel Crème Fraîche and Caviar, 118–119

Potpie, cobia, 104–105

Preparation freshness considerations, 24–27 gently killing (ikejime) and, 32–33 rinsing before cooking, 37 sea-caught fish, 35–36 shopping for fish and, 30–31, 37 storing and, 35–37

Preparation, cuts/bits, appealing characteristics, and techniques, 39–46. See also Cooking fish (techniques and related recipes); Raw fish belly (toro), 44, 285 bones, 44, 70–71, 177, 246–247 cheeks, 42, 285 eyes, 44, 237, 285 filleting, 286 (See also maximum-yield processing) fillets, 39, 285 gutting, 287 heads and collars (including recipes list), 42, 285 liver, 45 maximum-yield processing, 288–289 milt (sperm), 45, 131 ribs, 41, 128–129, 285 roast (bone-in and -out), 41, 57, 224–225 roe (See also Caviar) roe (including recipes list), 43 sashimi, 63–64, 108–109, 290 scales, 45, 205 scaling, 39, 287 scoring, 290 skin (including recipes list), 42–43

steaks (darnes), 46, 86–89, 290 whole fish (including recipes list), 40–41

wings (pectoral fins), 46, 202–203, 285 Processing fish. See Preparation, cuts/ bits, appealing characteristics, and techniques Puttanesca, 106, 107

Q

Quebec, 255–271 about: growing up, memories, passion for food and, 255 Arctic Char Confit with Parsnip Mash and Fennel Slaw, 258–260 Baked Whole Snapper with Spicy Tarragon Chimichurri, 261–263 Grouper Belly Bacon with Maple and Whiskey, 256, 257

Maple-Steamed Whole Trout on a Wet Log, 266–267

Seaweed Tapenade with Sardines and Salicornia, 264, 265

Trout Crudo with Beet, Sumac, and Pickled Pearl Onions, 270–271 Whelk Carpaccio with Spicy Mayo and Dill, 268, 269 Quinoa, in Aguachile with Serrano Pepper, Kiwi, and Fried Quinoa, 185–187

R

Raspberry Vinegar Mignonette, 208 Raw fish, 61–67 about: choosing/buying fish to eat, 61; fish/seafood to eat or avoid, 62; preparation techniques and related recipes, 62–67; slicing, 61 aguachile, 67, 185–187 carpaccio, 66, 269 ceviche, 65, 123 crudo, 62–63, 270–271 sashimi, 63–64, 108–109, 290 sushi dipping sauce, 72 tartare, 64, 92–93 tataki, 66–67, 95 Rays, skate, 282–283 Redfish, 278–279 Ribs, 41, 128–129, 285

Rillettes Charentaises, 152 Rinsing fish, 37 Roast(ing) (bone-in and -out), 41, 57, 224–225 Rockfish, 277, 278–279. See also Raw fish

Roe (including recipes list), 43. See also Caviar Rosemary dipping sauce, 149 Rubs, marinades, and seasonings, 72–75

s

Sablefish, black cod, 278–279 Salads

Sardine Potato Salad with Capers and Celery, 164–165

Seafood Salad with Sumac and Sweet Peas, 140, 141

Snapper Panzanella with Grapefruit, 114–115

Salmon about, 276–277; belly, 44; healthy fats and, 22; raw (See Raw fish); roe, 43; safe mercury level, 24; sashimi, 290; skin, 42–43; sous vide, 44 other recipe options, 82–83, 113, 117, 159, 174–175

Salmon Belly Tacos with Pickled Cucumber and Lemon–Cream Cheese Sauce, 180–181

Smoked Salmon and Turkish Egg Breakfast, 156–157

Salt Block–Seared Fish, 116, 117 Salt-Crusted Whole Fish, 112, 113 Salt(ing) (including recipes list), 52 Sanddab, 278–279

Sandwiches, Ultimate Fish Burgers, 209–211, 210. See also Tacos Sardines about, 278–279; canning, 54; coldsmoking, 56; healthy fats and, 22; raw (See Raw fish); safe mercury level, 24; skin, 42

Canned Sardines Poke Bowl, 166, 167

Sardine Potato Salad with Capers and Celery, 164–165

Seaweed Tapenade with Sardines and Salicornia, 264, 265

Sashimi, 63–64, 290

Sashimi dipping sauce, 72 Sashimi with Ginger and Soy, 108–109 Sauces and dips

about: dairy/yogurt and, 75; marinades, rubs, and seasonings, 72–75

Asian Mignonette, 208

Bagna Cauda, 201 Beurre Blanc, 88, 89 Black Bean Dip, 174 Brown Butter and Rosemary Dipping Sauce, 149

Sauces and dips (continued )

Champagne and Tabasco Granita and, 208

Chimichurri Mayo, 183

Dill Hollandaise Sauce, 134

Fumet Sauce, 224

Grapefruit Ponzu, 71

Gremolata Japanese Mayo, 178

Habanero-Apricot BBQ Sauce, 137

Herb Pesto Dip, 202–203

Herb Sauce, 95

Herb Sour Cream, 235 IPA Mayo, 99

Jalapeño Honey, 191

Lemon–Cream Cheese Sauce, 180 Ponzu Butter, 124

Raspberry Vinegar Mignonette, 208 Salsa Verde, 197

Seaweed Tapenade with Sardines and Salicornia, 264, 265

Smoked Mackerel Creme Fraiche, 118–119

Smoked Oyster Sauce, 216–217 Smoky Mezcal-Yuzu Ponzu, 71–72

Spicy Dill Yogurt, 219 Spicy Mayo and Dill, 269 Spicy Tarragon Chimichurri, 261–263

Sun-Dried Tomato Vinaigrette, 92 Tartar Sauce (The Best Tartar sauce in the Whole Universe and Beyond), 211

Yogurt Achiote, 173 Yuzu-Tarragon Mayo, 245 Sausage

Crispy Halibut with Yogurt Achiote, Fingerling Potatoes, and Chorizo, 172, 173

Fish Sausage with Shrimp Chunks, 82–83

Scale Gummy Bears, 204, 205 Scales, 45

Scaling, 39, 287

Scallops

about, 282–283; raw (See Raw fish); safe mercury level, 24 Baby Scallop Ceviche with Kohlrabi and Pineapple, 68, 122, 123

Scandinavian Fish Soup, 240, 241

Scandinavian Smorgasbord, 232–237, 233, 236

Scoring fish, 290 Scup (porgy). See also Raw fish about, 280–281

Sea bass, 62, 113, 159, 276–277 See also Chilean sea bass (toothfish); European sea bass (branzino)

Seafood Boil in a Bag, 193–195 Seafood Salad with Sumac and Sweet Peas, 140, 141 Searing, 54, 117 Seasonings, marinades, and rubs, 72–75 Sea urchin, 43, 282–283 Seaweed

about, 282–283

Seaweed Tapenade with Sardines and Salicornia, 264, 265 Shark

about, 280–281 blood in the water amid, 221 safe mercury level, 24 spearfishing and, 9, 11, 111, 189, 207, 255 swordfish similarities, 132 Shopping for fish, 30–31, 37, 61 Shrimp

about, 282–283; boats in Louisiana, 189, 201; frozen, 26; healthy fats and, 22; raw (See Raw fish); safe mercury level, 24 Aguachile with Serrano Pepper, Kiwi, and Fried Quinoa, 185–187 Cobia Potpie, 104–105 Fish Sausage with Shrimp Chunks, 82–83

Grilled Shrimp with Bagna Cauda, 200, 201

Scandinavian Fish Soup, 240, 241 Seafood Boil in a Bag, 193–195 Skate, rays, 282–283

Skewers, 49 Skillet, cast-iron, 50 Skin, appeal and preparation (including recipes list), 42–43

Skinny Chili, Ginger, and Clementine Tacos, 181 Slaw, fennel, 258–260 Smelt, 280–281

Smoked Oyster Sauce, 216–217 Smoked Salmon and Turkish Egg Breakfast, 156–157 Smoking fish (cold- and hot-smoking), 56 Smoky Mezcal-Yuzu Ponzu, 71–72 Smorgasbord, Scandinavian, 232–237, 233, 236 Snapper, 183 about, 280–281; liver, 45; raw

(See Raw fish); scales, 45; skin, 42; spearfishing anecdote, 9 Baked Whole Snapper with Spicy Tarragon Chimichurri, 261–263 other recipe options, 81, 96–97, 108–109, 113, 117, 159, 174–175, 198–199

Skinny Chili, Ginger, and Clementine Tacos, 181 Snapper Panzanella with Grapefruit, 114–115

Snapper Roe Bottarga, 154, 155 Snapper Tartare with Cured Quail Egg and Chimichurri Mayo, 182, 183–184 Sole, 278–279

Soups and stews about, 52–54

Asian Fish Soup, 246–247 Corn Chowder, 212–213 Lobster Bisque, 228–229

Mamie’s Fish Soup with Rouille Toasts, 144, 145 Scandinavian Fish Soup, 240, 241 Steamed Giant Clams with Lobster Bisque and Aged Cheddar, 214, 215 Swordfish Stew (Bougna), 226, 227 Sous vide, 58 South Africa, 79–90 about: life, fish, and braai, 79 Fish Sausage with Shrimp Chunks, 82–83

Jerk Cobia with Butter-Baked Sweet Potatoes, 80, 81 Mackerel Toast with Charred Cherry Tomatoes and Pickled Shallots, 84, 85

Mini Kingfish Wellingtons with Mustard-Tarragon Stuffing and Beurre Blanc, 86–89

Spearfishing about: this cookbook and, 12, 16–17 author’s background and love of, 9–11 dangers of, 9 ecosystem, sustainability and, 12 food, flavors, and live values, 12 free diving without oxygen, 11 photos, 13–15, 272–273 as selective hunting, 11–12 shark encounter, 9, 11 sustainable adventure cookbook and, 16–17

Sperm (milt), 45, 131 Spices and herbs, 73

Spicy Dill Yogurt, 219 Spicy Tarragon Chimichurri, 261–263 Squid. See Calamari, squid Staples, 69–75 about: overview of, 69 Fish Fumet, 70–71 Fish Stock, 70 marinades, rubs, and seasonings, 72–75 Ponzu (grapefruit and smoky mezcal yuzu), 71–72 sushi and sashimi dipping sauce, 72 States, recipes by. See California; Florida; Louisiana; New York Steaks (darnes), 46, 86–89, 290

Steamed Giant Clams with Lobster Bisque and Aged Cheddar, 214, 215 Steaming fish (including recipes list), 51 Stock, fish, 70. See also Dashi; Fish Fumet Storing fish, 35–36. See also Curing fish Stuffing, mustard-tarragon, 86–87 Sturgeon, 280–281 Sumac, seafood salad with, 140, 141 Sushi. See Raw fish Sustainable seafood, 29–33 about: this cookbook and, 12, 16–17 farmed vs. wild fish, 31–32 fishery requirements for, 29 grocery shopping for, 30–31, 61 killing fish (ikejime), 32–33 Marshall Islands and, 161 Sweden, 231–241 about: culinary appeal and seafood preservation, 231 Amberjack Gravlax, 234 Dill-Pickled Perch with Pumpernickel, Radishes, and Herb Sour Cream, 235 Halibut Escabeche, 238–239 Pickled Fish Eyes, 236, 237

Scandinavian Fish Soup, 240, 241 Scandinavian Smorgasbord, 232–237, 233, 236

Sweet potatoes, jerk cobia with, 80, 81 Swordfish about, 280–281; raw, 62, 280; safe mercury level, 24 other recipe options, 177

Swordfish Eggs Benedict with Dill Hollandaise, 132–134, 133 Swordfish Stew (Bagna), 226, 227

TTacos

Crunchy Tuna Tacos with Gremolata Japanese Mayo, 178–179

Fish Tacos, Three Ways, 178–181, 179 Salmon Belly Tacos with Pickled Cucumber and Lemon–Cream Cheese Sauce, 180–181

Skinny Chili, Ginger, and Clementine Tacos, 181

Tail, fish anatomy and, 285 Taiwan, 243–253 about: sustainable fish industry, 243 Asian Fish Soup, 246–247

Braised Pompano Bao with Red Chili BBQ Sauce, 252, 253 Crab Dumplings in Dashi, 248, 249 Grilled Oysters with Blue Cheese and Hot Sauce, 250–251

Whitebait Chips with Yuzu-Tarragon Mayo, 244, 245

Tapenade, seaweed, 264, 265 Tartare and recipes, 64, 92–93

Tartar sauce, 211 Tataki, 66–67, 95 Tater Tots with Smoked Mackerel Crème Fraîche and Caviar, 118–119 Tilapia, 280–281. See also Raw fish Tilefish, 280–281 See also Raw fish Tomatillos, in Salsa Verde, 197 Tomato (sun-dried ) vinaigrette, 92 Toothfish, 280–281 Triggerfish, 280–281 See also Raw fish Trout

about, 276–277; healthy fats and, 22; raw (See Raw fish); safe mercury level, 24; skin, 42–43; sous vide, 58 Maple-Steamed Whole Trout on a Wet Log, 266–267 other recipe options, 82–83, 113, 117, 159

Trout Crudo with Beet, Sumac, and Pickled Pearl Onions, 270–271 Trout Mi-Cuit, 102, 103 Tuna

about, 280–281; belly, 44; healthy fats and, 22; Louisiana and, 189; Marshall Islands and, 161; oil curing, 54–55; raw (See Raw fish);

roe, 43; safe mercury level, 24; sashimi, 290

Crunchy Tuna Tacos with Gremolata Japanese Mayo, 178–179 other recipe options, 85, 155, 177 Tuna Nigiri with Rice Cakes and Harissa, 168–169

Tuna Tomahawk with Salsa Verde, 196, 197 Turbot, 280–281

U

Ultimate Fish Burgers, 209–211, 210

V

Vinegars, 74–75

W

Wahoo

about, 280–281; raw (See Raw fish) other recipe options, 103, 177

Wahoo Tataki with Herb Sauce and Cucumber, 94, 95 Walleye, 255, 280–281

Wellingtons, mini kingfish, 86–89, 87–88 Whelks about, 282–283

Whelk Carpaccio with Spicy Mayo and Dill, 268, 269

Whitebait Chips with Yuzu-Tarragon Mayo, 244, 245 Whitefish, 280–281 Whiting, 280–281

Whole fish (including recipes list), 40–41

Whole Fried Lionfish with IPA Mayo, 48, 98, 99

Wild vs. farmed fish, 31–32 Wings (pectoral fins), 46, 202–203, 285 Wreckfish, 280–281

Y

Yellowtail, 276–277 See also Amberjack Yogurt about: for sauces, 75; tartar sauce option with, 211 Spicy Dill Yogurt, 219 Yogurt Achiote, 173 Yuzu-Tarragon Mayo, 245

Growing up in Montreal, Canada, Valentine Thomas was not innately drawn to the water; in fact, it scared her. But later, dissatisfied with her work in corporate law and finance, she was introduced to a sport called spearfishing while on holiday in Ibiza. The ocean—which she had once feared—became her greatest passion, and she made fishing and diving her life’s work.

In Good Catch, Valentine shares her love for the bounty of waters around the world, as well as her enthusiasm and expertise for cooking fish and seafood in a sustainable way. The recipes, inspired by Valentine’s favorite fishing destinations, are organized by region and include both classic and creative preparations such as Grilled Clams with Butter, Garlic, and Parsley; Seafood Boil in a Bag; Snapper Panzanella with Grapefruit; and Fish Head Nachos. Valentine also shares the simple skills you’ll need to build a responsible seafood repertoire, provides tips for making the most ecofriendly choices, and explains the best ways to prepare each type of fish, from ceviche to a tuna tomahawk. Studded with gorgeous photography of both the dishes and Valentine’s dramatic dives, this book is nothing short of an adventure into the world of delicious and sustainable seafood.

VALENTINE THOMAS is a world-class spearfisherwoman, 170-foot free diver, sustainability-focused chef, entrepreneur, and influencer with a global platform. A Forbes magazine Changemaker, Valentine has appeared onstage at prestigious events such as TEDx Talk, the Chefs World Summit, and EarthX. She trained as a lawyer in Canada and worked in finance in London before leaving it all behind to pursue her true passion: the ocean. After trading the corporate world for the coast, Valentine now travels the world fishing and diving.

MARKETING AND PUBLICITY

• National and local television outreach

• National print and online publicity campaign

• Review copy distribution to food and travel editors at daily newspapers

• Outreach to food, travel, fishing, women’s, and sustainability publications, and popular websites and verticals

• Digital consumer advertising campaign

• Cross-promotion on the author’s Instagram (@valentinethomas; 330K followers)

• Social media promotions across @UnionSqandCo channels

• Submit for trade reviews

• Priority title at national and regional library conferences

• Digital review copy on Edelweiss and NetGalley • Award submissions  • Goodreads giveaway

publicity inquiries, contact Blanca Oliviery at boliviery@unionsquareandco.com.

A stunning and inspiring guide to selecting, preparing, and enjoying sustainable seafood, with 75 recipes, from a world-class spearfisherwoman