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Issue 1



A Note From The Editor Welcome, and step in, to our first issue. See what I did there? All jokes aside, I am proud to introduce you to this fashion movement zine. Step is dedicated to documenting the important aspects of fashion that are often ignored or neglected by the mainstream media. The research for this project opened my eyes to the severity of the impact fashion has had on the environment. When it comes to media documentation of humankind’s impact on the environment, we often see images of plastic bottles etc. Washed up on beaches or oil leaks in the ocean. What we rarely see is the chemical pollution caused by the dyeing of fabrics or the plastic microfibers that make their way into our bodies through the fish we eat and water we drink. Maybe these impacts are not as ‘hard-hitting’ as the images we regularly see. However, with claims made that the fashion industry is the second largest polluter only to oil, they are very, very real. Please, take the time to flick through and read. I promise it’s not all doom and gloom!

This zine contains London Fashion Week AW18 Page 4

A garment's life Page 8

textiles and their impacts Page 26



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Fashion Week, the time to show of your best clothing or even promote your own up-andcoming brand. It is also the perfect time to protest anything fashion related. This year and many previous years, these protests have focused on the fur industry. Armed with megaphones and strongly worded signs, the protesters hassled and shouted at anyone who had the audacity to wear fur. Much of the crowd of fashionistas and photographers dispersed at the protesters arrival but they managed to get their message across. Versace have recently joined the slow growing group of designers who will no longer use fur to make fashion.


A Garment's Life 8

Clothes are an important part of building how we present ourselves to the world. A football fan might wear a shirt to represent the team that they support. As might a music fan wear merchandise to highlight their taste in music. Sub-cultures such as punk have used clothing as a uniform to define who they are whilst others follow trends and celebrity fashion. In other words, you can identify who a person is often by the clothing they choose to wear. But what about when these clothes are no longer of any use? A garment’s life often follows one of several paths. If it’s lucky enough to be considered a strong, staple

part of someone’s wardrobe it is likely to have a long life. However, in today’s society of disposable clothing there are other paths that a garment’s life could go down. Clothing brought for a single night out or a holiday one year may get lucky and get passed onto to a new owner or a charity store to get their second chance. They may hang in a wardrobe for years before they get this opportunity. They may get damaged and considered unworthy of the chance for a fresh start. If this is the case they will most likely end up in the bin to be taken to landfill and if unlucky enough to be made from polyester or other synthetics, it could be there for a long, long time. 9


x 185 This lifecycle has to start somewhere. From its beginning, a garment has an environmental footprint. A single cotton t-shirt requires enough water to fill 27 baths in order to be created. This is not to mention the pesticides and chemicals used to protect the crop when it is growing. Back in 2015, production of polyester released the equivalent pollution of 185 coal-fired power stations! Yes, that’s right one hundred and eighty-five. Now, 50% of clothing contains the synthetic.

While synthetic garments don’t necessarily biodegrade, they still decay. When washed, they shed microfibers. It is important to remember that synthetic textiles are essentially plastic and that we should be just as outraged by their pollution as we are plastic bottles and bags. Whilst it is a simple matter of education and understanding, awareness of the pollution from the textile industry is very low. 11



With fast fashion as a massive global its environmental impact is difficult. a look within our own wardrobes clothing can be so much more than a


industry, tackling However, taking shows us that disposable item.











Despite clothing being such a prominent part of our lives, an estimated £30 billion worth of clothes live in our wardrobes, unworn and unlikely to be worn again. As well as this, 300,000 tonnes of clothing were sent to UK landfills in 2016. It has been claimed that fashion’s environmental impact is second highest only to the oil industry. This has not been helped by our lack of love for the clothes we desire when purchasing. While it is not the consumer’s responsibility to reduce the carbon footprint of clothing production, there a few ways in which we can help. If a garment’s life is extended by just two months, their overall carbon and water footprints can be reduced by 5-10%.

This can be done by repairing clothing when it breaks or repurposing unwanted clothes or even donating them to charities or homes that would value the clothing more. By recycling 2 million tonnes of textiles, we can remove pollution equivalent of one million cars. Patagonia have created a bag (Guppy Friend) for washing your clothes in order to remove the invisible pollution released from our clothing.

These are by no means, full solutions to the problem. However, there can only be benefits in trying to reduce our individual carbon footprints. Who knows, if sustainability becomes fashionable we could just save the world. 25

Textiles And


Their Impacts










Printed on recycled paper



Step is a fashion movement zine dedicated to documenting the issues and events within fashion that mainstream media often overlooks. ​Starte...


Step is a fashion movement zine dedicated to documenting the issues and events within fashion that mainstream media often overlooks. ​Starte...