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BURBERRY FESTIVE FILM, 2015 CHRISTMAS CAMPAIGN, SHOT BY MARIO TESTINO

> FASHION CONFIDENTIAL

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GIFT GUIDE: FOR HER

p. 27

WARDROBE MASTER

p. 35

ALL THAT SPARKLES

p. 36

BURBERRY’S BILLY ELLIOT An all-star, all-British cast; an homage to this BAFTA-winning film: just in time for the holidays, Burberry has released its festive campaign, shot by Mario Testino. With boho-luxe looks and a bouncing Romeo Beckham, we've just discovered the secret to a very merry Christmas. uk.burberry.com

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DECEMBER 2015

05/11/2015 16:13


UPTOWN

Girl Pack a punch this season with bold brights and geo prints Photographer Iris Brosch Fashion editor Charlot te Adset t

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Knitted sweater £215 Forte Forte at The Shop at Bluebird A-line skirt £120 MSGM at The Shop at Bluebird Wool coat £995 Daks Gold bracelet £1,350, gold bangle £395, gold hoop earrings £550, gold ring £350 all Annina Vogel at Liberty Suede boots £650 Nicholas Kirkwood Bambi the dog wears leather lead £75 Alice Foxx

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Silk blouse £595 Jonathan Saunders, Wool blend coat £875 Moschino Boutique, Crepe trousers £275 MSGN, Leather Gold-tone necklace, £34; bag £895 Marni all at Fenwick Kenneth Jay Lane Bracelet and earrings as before Suede court shoes £395 Jimmy Choo

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Wool dress £345 Daks ‘Rene’ knitted sweater £495 Jonathan Saunders at The Shop at Bluebird ‘Less is more’ lurex stocking boot £395 Charlotte Olympia Gold bracelet £1,350 and gold ring £350 both Annina Vogel at Liberty

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‘Arvum’ printed blouse £630 Marni at The Shop at Bluebird Skirt £2,499 Christopher Kane at Harrods Patent court shoes £495 Nicholas Kirkwood Gold and turquoise pendant £3,500 and gold rings from £350 all Annina Vogel at Liberty

RIGHT: Silk top £825 Roksanda at Harrods Crepe skirt £495 Roland Mouret at Browns Perspex clutch £1,125 Charlotte Olympia Gold bracelet £1,350 Annina Vogel at Liberty ‘Lana’ leather pumps £495 Bionda Castana

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MADE TO LAST Since taking the reigns of Robert Clergerie in 2011, designer Roland Mouret has brought the French heritage label into a new era, one step at a time Wo r d s S t e p h a n i e K i n g

“I

’m not a shoe designer, I’m a fashion designer,” decrees Roland Mouret, the lauded creative director of heritage label Robert Clergerie. “But I understand the bigger vision of the brand and that the shoes are meant to be worn with clothes,” he elaborates. Since 2011 Mouret has been at the helm of the luxury brand, turning his hand from apparel to accessories. The 54-year-old Lourdes native first secured his place in the industry designing womenswear under his own name. But when opportunity struck to head Robert Clergerie’s eponymous brand, accepting the new role was a no-brainer: “When you have a company and a designer who has created more than a product [but] a lifestyle of a generation, it’s quite fantastic to work with that kind of legacy.” Mouret clarifies, “I don’t try to be presented like Robert never exists, I try to be presented like the son, the son who follows his Dad but at the same time [as someone who] really believes what I know.” The sale of Robert Clergerie to Hong Kong investors Fung Group could have been fatal for the brand. Yet Mouret’s innovative design eye has renewed Clergerie’s equally savoir faire spirit: “I think because there is something in common about the love of legacy in the product I have and that Robert has taught me, that love to learn, to pass on knowledge and to see the future, [means we] have the same customer who enjoys something that has a meaning in their life.

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It’s quite fantastic TO WORK with that KIND OF LEGACY

“The Robert Clergerie woman? She is someone who loves shoes like her best friends, and that’s why she likes to have a pair of shoes that she can rely on from day to evening, I think that’s what all women have in common when they come to Clergerie.” This manifests in an aesthetic possessing “a sense of duality: male/female; masculine/ feminine; architectural/comfort,” Mouret elucidates, noting the classic Clergerie brogue: “It was the shoe that everybody took inspiration from.” His recent AW15 collection, Mouret says, was “really based on the Seventies,

but the Seventies between the countryside and the city. I’m quite inspired by England and the way you can go from nature to urban and vice versa.” A seemingly abstract concept to capture in shoes, Mouret explains: “It’s really funny, leather and fabric are quite similar. You never know your favourite until you start to build a shoe and see the reality of the leather and the feel: some embody the shape, they give power…it comes alive. We have a lot of patent leather too because it was really part of [Robert’s] culture. But we are really open all the time to newness.” Mouret’s latest initiative for Robert Clergerie is his #ClergerieGirls campaign, which “started from my love of the TV series, Sex and the City. I thought it would be so great on Instagram: girls reacting in different parts of the country, showing themselves as part of a brand but at the same time defining their own identity and competing through social media.” The winner is soon to be announced and will be selected by fans with input from Mouret and Leandra Medine, founder of lifestyle website Man Repeller. At stake is a trip to March’s Paris Fashion Week amongst several other exclusive prizes. After being given direct access to emerging talent and not to mention, receiving the largest portion of entries from the US, Mouret has developed a keen sense of ‘British style.’ He reflects: “You can always find the Brit attitude [from] the way they stand, the way they like to present themselves.” On the application assessmemt, Mouret muses, “It was really weird because

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FASHION / PROFILE

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JANUARY 2016

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FASHION/ PROFILE

It’s a symbolic VERSION of what we want THE BRAND to become. some of them put a lot of pictures, they didn’t know what they wanted to do, and others were really focused and you could understand why they were completely in sync with themselves and it was brilliant. This year has also witnessed one of Robert Clergerie’s biggest endeavours: the unveiling of its new retail identity. In celebration of the 120th anniversary of Clergerie’s manufacturer in Romans, the opening of its Walton Street location marks a significant milestone in the label’s history. Mouret describes Vudafieri Saverino Partners’ design as “a symbolic version of what we want the brand to

become, which is a brand with a strong personal identity of Robert, but at the same time giving you what luxury and service is expected… [Robert Clergerie stores] were the trendy place of the Eighties. To revisit that and reposition it… the atmosphere is supposed to be more personal, more close to home from all of the elements – the walls, the floors – but everything has to have that luxury feel.” The Mayfair boutique is the second Robert Clergerie outpost in London, the first being on Marylebone’s Wigmore Street. Irrespective of location, each space reflects the neighbourhood it inhabits while paying homage to its Parisian roots. With 2016 upon us, Mouret’s goals for the label are expectedly lofty, but equally achievable, with the designer’s To Do list including: “Focus on what the brand stands for; moving on with the store and establishing it; and just be relevant. I think to be relevant in the future is the biggest challenge.” While he makes a valid point, judging by Mouret’s past success, it seems he’ll do just fine. ◆

● Robert Clergerie

180 Walton Street, W1U robertclergerie.com

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JANUARY 2016

15/12/2015 10:40


st y l e C e n t r a l

Knee-high boots, bow blouses and camel tones are topping our October shopping list Wo r d s c h a r l o t t e a d s e t t

SELF MADE Wo r d s s t e p h a n i e k i n g

“I

don’t want to be a sell-out.” Millie Mackintosh sits poised in the meeting room of Random House’s Pimlico headquarters. “Doing my own clothing line, it’s been an amazing journey. It’s still a challenge, but I want to be involved, I don’t want to pass it on someone else,” says the 26-year-old of her “folky-boho” AW15 collection. “It’s a mix of day dresses, dresses for day-to-night, faux fur, tassels, embroidery, tapestry, lace-up details.” Case in point, Mackintosh’s current outfit from the 27-piece range: a forest green skater dress with a daring deep-V lace-up neck. As she leans forward to offer me one of her Nutty Butter & Seed Cookies, it was perhaps, a daring choice. Then again that’s Mackintosh. Brave enough to try things she’s never done before, the savvy businesswoman has just released her first book, MADE, which is a lifestyle guide-cum-style bible featuring tips from industry experts; “people who make you look and feel good.” But what it really is, is further affirmation of Mackintosh’s status as a fashion, fitness and food guru. With her website and one million Instagram followers giving GOOP – and the woman behind it – a run for its money, the entrepreneur continues to prove she’s so much more than a former reality TV star. Where to now for Mackintosh? “I’d love to expand [the label], add shoes at some point; I’d love to do bags and hats... I’m potentially working on an exclusive line with other brands I work with, it’s really, really exciting.” While in the past Mackintosh has had to defend her career success, there’s no denying that now, she’s MADE it. ◆

● M A D E B Y M I L L I E M AC K I N T O S H Ebury Publishing, £8.49; millie-mackintosh.com

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New Heritage Hillier Bartley

Following their success at a number of cult brands, ‘It’ girl designers Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier have launched their own eponymous label for AW15, Hillier Bartley. The luxe collection celebrates classic British tailoring and features masculine suits and 1930s silk party dresses. Available at matchesfashion.com

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QUEEN of the Screen

Fashion editor-turned-entrepreneur Naomi Mdudu talks launching The Lifestyle Edit and her love of digital media Wo r d s S t e p h a n i e K i n g

“I

was bored of this content that was so aspirational it had no bearing on anyone's life. I thought, Why is it that the magazines and the publications we read don't reflect the real-life things that we’re facing? It was really important for me to do just that.” Naomi Mdudu explains the concept behind her business. By all accounts the founder and editor of women’s advice website, The Lifestyle Edit, is average: average height, average build, with dark brown hair and eyes. But if you believe this you’d be horrifically mistaken, because the powerhouse responsible for the “online toolkit to a stylish lifestyle” could not be any further from average. In her mid-20s Mdudu has already had an impressive career: Fashion Editor of Metro; City A.M. Life & Style Features Writer; PR to luxury Italian handbag label Alessandra Ferreira; and assisting

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ONLINE you CAN TAKE things into YOUR own HANDS. That’s what makes DIGITIAL SO EXCITING on photo shoots for Glamour, Tatler and Harper’s Bazaar. She’s even graduated from a law degree – “I come from a very academic family.” But since February 2015 the savvy Blackheath local has been changing the conversation with her revolutionary dot-com. “The women you're talking to are dynamic. Just because you’re interested in style, doesn't mean you're not interested in anything else,” asserts Mdudu. Well said – and spotted – because a platform like this is long overdue: “It was one of those things where you have an idea and if you don't do it now, somebody else is going to.”

The Lifestyle Edit cuts through the proverbial BS and shares interesting, relatable, actually useful content with its mid-20s to mid-30s female readership. Her salient features covering all aspects of life, from careers and personal style to dating and wellness, continue to be eyed by thousands, and her candid interviews with women – including Suits actress Meghan Markle, model Rosie HuntingtonWhiteley, singer Foxes and Pandora Sykes, Sunday Times Style’s Fashion Features Editor – prove to be fascinating, inspirational reads. And the big brands also agree: Mdudu’s original perspective has encouraged several companies to collaborate with her, the latest being Banana Republic. But the successful entrepreneur warns, “I just did a talk at London Fashion Weekend and the thing that people always want to know is ‘How can I make money out of my blog?’ That should never be the starting point. Instead of looking at the outcome, it should be about making sure

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ARTS & CULTURE / LIFE STYLED Naomi Mdudu x Banana Republic

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DECEMBER 2015

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ARTS & CULTURE / LIFE STYLED Chapters Blackheath

Naomi Mdudu x Banana Republic

that you hone your skills; have beautiful photography; the quality of your writing is on point; that you’re offering something unique.” Coincidentally (or not so coincidentally), other avid believers of this ‘quality over quantity’ mentality include Mdudu’s favourite fashion designers: “I endorse everything that Phoebe [Philo, Creative Director of Céline] stands for. She is so in tune with her own aesthetic, and the clothes are uncompromising when it comes to quality and craftsmanship. That’s why my second favourite brand would be Stella McCartney because again, her clothes allow you to see the women in them.” Who does this seasoned veteran feel is one British designer to watch? “Charlie May,” advises Mdudu. “She is the epitome of fashion in 2015. She's been able to harness her social media following (of about 150,000 Instagram followers) and is one of the first examples of the fact that you don't have to go down the traditional

The Princess of Wales

path. Online you can take things into your own hands. That’s what makes digitial so exciting.” Mdudu’s shock departure earlier this year from the national newspaper makes sense now. “Metro was a wonderful opportunity and one I’m eternally grateful for, but digital is my love,” she states. “When you work on a newspaper, much of your day is spent sitting at your

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Charlie May AW15

desk. I love having the freedom to be out all day. Some days I love nothing more than having an office day. It’s that kind of flexibility I really enjoy.” Mdudu’s current schedule means that she’s been able to make some discoveries close to home: “The great thing about Blackheath, we’re absolutely spoilt for choice. We have a farmers’ market every other weekend; you can get everything from meat and cheese to organic fresh produce. For breakfast, whenever any of my mates come from any other part of London, I take them to Chapters, right by the church on the heath.” And watering holes? “My favourite pub is The Railway Pub, it’s like our little gem. [As is] The Princess of Wales. It’s amazing.” With a jam-packed 2015 behind her Mdudu’s looking forward to an even better 2016: “[Next year] I want to continue to feel excited and inspired to do what I do. I’d love to do a half-marathon and challenge myself physically as well as mentally.” In addition to achieving these goals, she’s also got plenty of “exciting things in the pipeline” for The Lifestyle Edit: “We’re going to be focusing more on international, so you’ll get to see content straight from New York. We’ll be doing a lot more offline experiences, where you’ll be able to meet like-minded women at incredible events.” Clearly Mdudu has written herself a new life path, and she leaves those who’ve ever entertained the idea of career change with the encouragement, “It is rewarding beyond your wildest imagination.” ◆ l The Lifestyle Edit thelifestyleedit.com

DECEMBER 2015

30/11/2015 15:18


st y l e C e n t r a l

Tuxedos, statement sleeves and berets are top of our shopping list this month Wo r d s c h a r l o t t e a d s e t t

THOMAS TAIT Wo r d s S T E P H A N I E K I N G

C

anadian by birth, British by choice, designer Thomas Tait recently scooped up 2015's British Fashion Awards Emerging Womenswear Designer for his conceptual ready-to-wear garments. Now 28 years old, the Montreal transplant remains the youngest ever designer to graduate from Central Saint Martins’ prestigious MA Fashion course aged 22. For his final university collection (SS11), he was awarded the 2010 Dorchester Collection Fashion Prize and has since established himself as one of the Noughties’ most innovative creative talents. Tait’s avantgarde pieces earned him 2014's LVMH Young Designer Prize, where he put these winnings to good use in his latest London Fashion Week efforts: The evocative, suspiria inspired AW15 collection was right out of a Dario Argento “disco-horror” film, and his debut SS16 line for Swarovski Collective presented neomod, Courrèges-like looks. Its solar system theme, unusually placed circular cut-outs and grommet ‘cages’ were further examples of Tait’s elegant integration of unexpected materials. With his signature curvilinear aesthetic, London’s irreverent style could not be a better place for Tait to foster his experimental tailoring. Thankfully we only have to wait a few more weeks to see what he does next. ◆

● T H O M A S TA I T thomastait.com

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Tuxedo Chic Racil

Le Smoking, the iconic tuxedo suit created by Yves Saint Laurent in 1966 remains a groundbreaking classic due to its masculine silhouette. Emerging designer Racil’s debut collection has reinterpreted the trouser suit with luxurious silks from Saville Row and Swarovski stones. Already a hit with the fashion pack, Racil is fast becoming the go-to tailoring label. Available from avenue32.com & farfetch.com

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FEATHER IN YOUR CAP Doff your hat to London’s best milliners, as they share their expert advice on selecting, styling and showcasing the perfect chapeau. Wo r d s s t e p h a n i e k i n g

W

hen it comes to purchasing a crown for your cranium, West London is the only place one need visit. With some of the world’s best established and emerging milliners conveniently located in the city’s central postcodes (or at least, their stockists), there is really no excuse for not accessorising your wardrobe with one of their extraordinary designs. But who are these masters of millinery? Enter: Stephen Jones, Awon Golding, Keely Hunter, Emily Baxendale of Emily-London, and Rachel Black. Their head piece wizardry is unparalleled, and an irrefutable essential this wedding season. Considering that May also marks the beginning of the spring racing calendar, Absolutely sought the help of these hair accessory experts. Here's their sage advice on all matters millinery. C h a p e au S e le c ti o n ba s i c s What makes a great hat? “The person who is wearing it,” says Jones, explaining that the secret to pulling off a dramatic chapeau is, “without question, confidence.” Though he continues, “But the hat can give you confidence, you don’t have to have it yourself.” Hunter and Baxendale all concur, where Black feels that “a hat doesn’t need to overpower you in order to make a statement; a beautifully crafted detail such as a bow or flower is enough.” Golding is adamant that hats should “accentuate your best assets.” How do you know you’re

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STEPHEN JONES, SS15, ‘HYSTERIA WISTERIA’ HAT

doing this? Baxendale provides the solution: “Angles are very important with hats. There are different ways of wearing every hat, and it is important to know what [angle] enhances and flatters your features.” Hunter also notes scale is imperative when purchasing a hair accessory: “The piece needs to fit the wearer, and I don’t mean just the size. Things like balance are critical and how [it] works with the overall outfit.” h at w e a r i n g h ow to Baxendale explains that at Emily-London, “We take into consideration the style of the event and the look [our clients] want to

portray. We always advise clients to not over-accessorise.” The Wimbledon milliner adds, “People often think with hats it’s better to wear your hair up. But for a more contemporary look, don’t be afraid to experiment with loose waves or a fishtail braid.” Golding recommends that taller women opt for wide brim hats, where shorter women should select styles that add height, such as designs with sweeping feathers or quills. As Jones advises (see Style Guideline No. 3), how a hat functions is as important as its form. He says that when preparing for a special occasion, like the races or a wedding, hat styling products are as vital as the outfit, as “these things really help to anchor the hat, even on a ten-force gale.” After all, losing your hat at Ascot is so not chic. And speaking of gauche: In today’s sartorially-flexible society, where dress standards are elastic and the fashion faux pas is a discontinued notion, what are the hat wearing guidelines? As far as formal functions are concerned, what are the Dos and Don’ts of donning a head piece? H a i r Acc e s s o ry E ti q u e t te Ultimately, the difference between a head piece intended for the races and one intended for a wedding, so Jones says, is that, “At a wedding the bride is supposed to be the centre of attention. At the races you have much more freedom, because you can be the centre of attention.” Golding agrees: “This is the bride’s day, so try not to upstage her with your best Carmen Miranda impression.” All bets are off (or on) at Ascot,

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FASHION / FEATURE

AWON GOLDING, AW15 ‘FLORAL DECAY’ COLLECTION

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MAY 2015

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FASHION / FEATURE AWON GOLDING Raised in India, Hong Kong and England, Awon Golding’s multicultural heritage is to thank for her bold design aesthetic. Already, the fashion writer-turned-milliner has won the Industry Prize at 2013's Hat Designer of the Year competition for her striking head wear. Recently, SS15 witnessed Golding’s debut in London Fashion Week's Headonism initiative, which was founded by Jones.

KEELY HUNTER RACHEL BLACK, SS15, ‘NOT BEFORE TIME’ HAT

w h e r e h at s a r e h e a d e d hile Black maintains that “hats W don’t feature in our wardrobes as they might once have done,” she says that “technologies such as 3D and digital printing are opening up so many incredible opportunities in fashion as a whole, not just millinery.” Unilaterally, all milliners feel that now is a very exciting time for hats. Even though they may never “have the same level of dedicated wearers as in the old days,” says Golding, she affirms Baxendale’s sentiments that “their popularity is on the ascent.” But more so than ever, Black notices a shift in paradigm: removing her incredibly covetable creations from the equation, she says that her clients keep returning because they crave an authentic chapeau shopping experience – one that’s devoid of mass produced items

© STEPHEN JONES

however, with Jones stating, “If you’re going to Ascot you’ll want to wear something that is the most special of your year.” Duly noted. Although Hunter has a slightly different take on the matter: she’s primarily “interested in the concept of hats as accessories,” believing that hats shouldn't be worn exclusively to the races; they “can be simple, luxurious pieces that can be worked into your everyday wardrobe, like an amazing pair of shoes.”

Kensington and Chelsea College graduate Keely Hunter aims to re-contextualise typically industrial, ‘unworkable’ materials into delicate, wearable pieces. It’s no wonder, then, that Selfridges' Bright Young Thing has appeared in British Vogue, Vogue Italia, Wallpaper*, Glamour UK and Grazia.

Stephen Jones’ Style Guidelines 1. It’s quite good for hair to be behind the ears. Sometimes you can see too much hat and too much hair and you lose the face, which is the point of communication. 2. Choose your hat to suit your face, not the fashion, because if you feel beautiful you will be beautiful. 3. Don’t forget the arsenal of styling products like hairspray, hair grips, bobby pins, even scrunchies.

and poor customer service. Evidently our changing consumer behaviour is giving these talented craftspeople further encouragement to keep experimenting, to keep pushing the boundaries. So with their creative freedom producing magnificent designs, why wouldn’t you want to showcase their skills this spring? THE E X PE RT pa n e l

STEPHEN JONES

EMILY-LONDON, SS15, ‘CORSHAM’ HAT

Regarded as one of the world’s most influential milliners, Cheshire-born Jones is synonymous with creative genius. No idea too radical or fanciful, this Central Saint Martins alumnus is renowned for his headline-making hats, worn by royalty of the British, pop and fashion variety. Since opening his first salon in Covent Garden in 1980, Jones’ dedication to his craft has earned him an Order of the British Empire and the appointment as Royal Designer.

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KEELY HUNTER, AW14, PERSPEX PEAK CAP

EMILY-LONDON Emily Baxendale, the Founder and Creative Director of Emily-London, is the London College of Fashion alumna boasting a client list that includes Princess Alexandra and Her Majesty the Queen. In her South Wimbledon studio, Baxendale blends functionality with femininity, creating unfailingly elegant hair accessories.

RACHEL BLACK After starting her millinery label in 2011, Rachel Black’s focus has been on providing women with contemporary designs that are as comfortable as they are attentiongrabbing. Her intent is simple: to allow the wearer’s “inner drama queen” to be unleashed. A favourite amongst brides, Black’s work has been featured in British Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar UK, Cosmopolitan UK, Grazia, and also, on Cheryl Cole’s head. u

MAY 2015

09/04/2015 11:07


st y l e C e n t r a l

Happy bags, Mary-Jane shoes and patent ankle boots are November’s must-buys Wo r d s c h a r l o t t e a d s e t t

HILL AND FRIENDS Wo r d s S T E P H A N I E K I N G

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hetland ponies prancing through Claridge’s ballroom and bellboys swathed in satchels: Emma Hill and Georgia Fendley know how to make an entrance. Then again, when you debut your new luxury accessories brand at London Fashion Week, Spring/Summer ’16 had better make a statement. The former Mulberry Creative and Brand Directors, respectively, premiered their capsule collection of bags at an intimate breakfast presentation, with Hill introducing the industry’s elite to a new fashion philosophy: “I love to invite the audience into our imagination and let them share in the fun!” The brand’s name alone indicates Hill and Fendley’s significant role in dissolving fashion’s longstanding #youcantsitwithus reputation. Case in point: the emoji-like Wink and Smiley Face hardware. This playful spirit also extends to Hill and Friends’ six silhouette’d Happy range comprising glossy goat, calf and calf hair leather mini and large satchels in neon pink, leopard print, emerald green, black, toffee and oxblood hues. What could be better? Well, this: “From day one we wanted to make key styles available from the day of the presentation,” said Fendley. Ahead of the curve yet again. But, while Hill and Fendley have already made some pretty industry-revolutionising moves, will their cheeky, irreverent designs and ‘Fashion just got friendlier’ mantra bring them future success? They’ve got it in the bag. ◆ ● HILL AND FRIENDS From £495; netaporter.com

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Pretty in Pink Bally

Inspired by director Wes Anderson’s films, the Bally AW15 collection sees an exciting new design direction for the luxury shoe and accessories brand. The campaign captures its nostalgic nod to the Sixties, and features the pink Mary-Jane’s that the fashion pack are currently crazy for. 45-46 Bond Street, W1S; Available at bally.co.uk

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st y l e C e n t r a l

Bespoke lingerie, blush pink and iconic luggage are at the top of our shopping list this February Wo r d s c h a r l o t t e a d s e t t

FLEUR DU MAL Wo r d s S T E P H A N I E K I N G

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or the woman who wears lingerie for herself, not just to impress someone else, Fleur du Mal is the breakout luxury label fast becoming a staple in many a chest of drawers. It is a brand tailored to women who are empowered by their femininity, not defined by it, and features delicate designs that are tastefully sexy and elegantly cheeky. Meaning? Fleur du Mal is the ultimate gift. But is it any wonder, with Kiki de Montparnasse’s co-founder, Jennifer Zuccarini, behind the irresistible label. Since 2012 she’s been harnessing her years of experience helming one of the world’s most respected lingerie brands, and restoring the art of undressing one knicker at a time. Fleur du Mal’s latest line is a collaboration with Playboy and celebrates the adult entertainment brand’s hey-day when esteemed photographers Helmut Newton and Herb Ritts were contributors. This playful collection – illuminated in a members-only club themed campaign fronted by Scout Willis, Brandee Brown, Noot Seear and Chelsea Leyland – comprises vintage Playboy inspired looks that have been revamped for the 21st century mademoiselle. Whether Swarovski crystal bunny ears, tulle bunny tails or bow tie collar bodysuits take your fancy, Fleur du Mal is your little secret – and your secret weapon for Valentine’s Day. ◆ ● FLEUR DU MAL From £45; fleurdumal.com

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Thrills and Frills Agent Provocateur

This season, Agent Provocateur is celebrating iconic pieces from past collections with the Classic range. Cult styles such as the Gloria basque and the Matinee kimono (above) have been reimagined in new colourways, just in time for Valentine’s Day. agentprovocateur.com

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V-DAY / GIFT GUIDE FORNASETTI

Silenzio Scented Candle, £115; harrods.com

FLEUR DU MAL X PLAYBOY

Bunny Tail Tulle Pin, £35; net-a-porter.com

ANNA KOSTUROVA Available from beachcafe.com

BELLA FREUD

Je T’aime Jane Eau de Parfum 50ml, £75; net-a-porter.com

must

HAVE LONGINES

Evidenza Ladies’ Diamond Stainless Steel Bracelet Watch, £1,450; longines.com

MARA HOFFMAN

Rainbow Swimsuit, £209; beachcafe.com

HERMÈS

L'Arbre du Vent Silk Scarf, £760; uk.hermes.com

CHARBONNEL ET WALKER

Pink Marc de Champagne Truffles (135g), £13.50; harrods.com

AGENT PROVOCATEUR Luna Kimono in Red, £395; agentprovocateur.com

MIMI HOLLIDAY

Hold Me Modern Bra, £66; mimiholliday.com

SUGAR ‘N’ SPICE

MCQUEENS

Mitford Bouquet, From £110; mcqueens.co.uk

Valentines Day treats and trinkets she’ll really love B y STEPHANIE KING

DIANNE VON FURSTENBERG PERRIER JOUËT

Love Minaudière Clutch, £320; matchesfashion.com

ALISON LOU

Love U 14ct Gold, Diamond & Enamel Cuff, £1,800; net-a-porter.com

Belle Epoque Edition Première 2007 Champagne, £220; thechampagnecompany.com

87

FEBRUARY 2016


EXHIBITION

AGONY& theECSTASY June’s biggest fashion exhibit, Shoes: Pleasure and Pain comes to the Victoria & Albert Museum Wo r d s S t e p h a n i e K i n g

R

omeo and Juliet. Mr Darcy and Elizabeth Bennet. Rose and Jack. The tales of these iconic couples don’t come remotely close to this love affair. But what pairing could possibly merit an exhibition at the Victoria & Albert Museum more than some of history’s most famous partners? The answer: a woman’s relationship with her shoes. The V&A’s upcoming Shoes: Pleasure and Pain celebrates women’s unending obsession with these addictive accessories, drawing attention to the role footwear plays within society. From 13 June over 200 pairs of the world’s most ground-breaking designs will be unveiled alongside several privately collected, never-before-seen pieces. Think: ancient Egyptian gold leaf sandals, silk Chinese lotus shoes of the late 1800s, and 19th century silver Indian wedding padukas. Shoes: Pleasure and Pain brings together

© Victoria and Albert Museum, London, Roger Vivier for Christian Dior beaded silk and leather evening shoe, 1958-60.

© Victoria and Albert Museum, London, silver and gold over wood wedding toe-knob padukas, 1800s.

remarkable shoes from across the globe to examine the many facets to footwear and explore its cultural significance. “Shoes are one of the most telling aspects of dress,” says exhibition curator Helen Persson. “Beautiful, sculptural objects, they are powerful indicators of gender, status, taste, and even sexual preference. Our choice in shoes can help project an image of who we want to be.” The V&A's installation champions the extremes of footwear, its ability to incite euphoria in the wearer, and the pain women will tolerate for the sake of aesthetics. Shoes, like the feet they decorate, can be objects of seduction or fetishism. Exhibition visitors can view the typically erotic styles of laced leather boots, sky-high heels, and traditional Japanese geta. Compare other symbols of power with their modern counterparts, such as the exceedingly impractical chopines favoured by 16th and 17th century royalty with the footwear of contemporary

OVER 200 PAIRS

OF the world’s most GROUND-BREAKING DESIGNS ABSOLUTELY MAGAZINES

NH_JUNE15_V&A_SHOSE_3.indd 42

© Andrew Bradley, Andreia Chaves 'Invisible Naked' shoes, 2011.

42 28/05/2015 11:04


FASHION / SHOES © Estate of Helmut Newton/ Maconochie Photography, American Vogue, February 1995.

SHOES ARE one

of the most telling

ASPECTS OF DRESS

© Victoria and Albert Museum, London, punched kid leather and carved pine chopines, 1600s.

dignitaries, namely Queen Victoria and Princess Diana. Pieces sported by Daphne Guinness and Sarah Jessica Parker will receive a spotlight, as will the infamous 10” crocodile platforms that caused supermodel Naomi Campbell to fall on Vivienne Westwood’s 1993 catwalk. But taking centre stage are the unmistakable scarlet hued ballet pointes made for Moira Shearer in 1948’s classic film The Red Shoes. As much as the show will illuminate the work of artisans passed, it also highlights today’s innovators who are taking footwear design literally to new heights – whether it’s Zaha Hadid's form-pressed ‘Nova’ shoes that boast a 6.5” unsupported heel, or Andreia Chaves whose 3D-printed ‘Invisible

© Victoria and Albert Museum, London, gilded and marbled leather men's shoes, 1925.

© Victoria and Albert Museum, London, Caroline Groves 'Parakeet' shoes, 1959.

● V& A museum Cromwell Road, SW7 vam.ac.uk

43 NH_JUNE15_V&A_SHOSE_3.indd 43

Naked’ ankle boots demonstrate the possibilities of advanced manufacturing technologies. While this exhibition will undoubtedly attract the fashion crowd en masse, it is not simply for shoe obsessives; it is as much as collection of clothing items as it is wearable art. Incorporating rare men’s designs as well as women’s, visitors can marvel at men’s turquoise marbled leather Oxfords with metallic gold leather inserts and women’s Roger Vivier for Christian Dior bead-embellished coral pink silk pumps circa 1958, plus numerous items created by renowned shoe designers of the present day. Even newcomer Sophia Webster has been acknowledged as a key influencer, her SS13 ‘RiRi’ sandals also reserving a pedestal place next to those of Prada and Jimmy Choo. Come June, pull out your favourite slippers (glass or ruby) to ogle iconic, outstanding shoes and ponder their impact on the overall zeitgeist. Do not miss this profound showcase investigating society’s relationship with footwear, because who knows; you might just find your solemate there. ◆

JUNE 2015

27/05/2015 14:22


British Fibre As Liberty celebrates an important milestone, the Fashion and Textile Museum opens an exhibit showing why this British heritage brand never goes out of style Wo r d s S t e p h a n i e K i n g

B

irthdays are always a big deal, even more so when they reach triple digits. What better way to celebrate the three-figure anniversary of department store Liberty, than with an exhibition paying homage to its 140-year legacy. Since 1875 the Regent Street retailer has woven itself into the fibre of London, and although founder Arthur Lasenby Liberty’s aspirations for it were lofty, he could not have predicted it to become the shopping destination it is today. Commemorating the momentous 140th anniversary is a new installation, fittingly called Liberty in Fashion.

ABSOLUTELY MAGAZINES

NH_Oct15_LM.indd 30

Liberty in Fashion’s extensive SHOWCASE ILLUSTRATES the store’s significant IMPACT on the fashion industry As far as retrospectives go, this one is up there with the best. From October Bermondsey’s Fashion and Textile Museum will unveil over 150 garments, textiles and objects by the world renowned company, making it the largest collection of its kind in the 21st century. The exhibition charts the iconic brand’s pivotal role in design history, where Liberty in Fashion’s extensive showcase illustrates its significant impact on the fashion industry as a whole. “From the earliest imports and Eastern influenced and artistic dress, to present day collaborations, Liberty has occupied a unique place in British fashion,” says Dennis Nothdruft, Curator at Fashion and Textile Museum. “Every garment in the exhibition has been carefully chosen to represent the incredible range of textile designs created by the firm, as well as to present an argument about why Liberty is always ‘in fashion’.”

'EUSTACIA' PRINT IMPRESSION, LIBERTY & CO. LTD, 1960, © COPYRIGHT OF LIBERTY FABRIC LIMITED

Archive pieces will shoulder modern items, with the showcase housing an 1890s cape constructed from embroidered Chinese shawls, a 1930s Paul Poiret pink embroidered silk robe, and a late 1960s Macedonia print dress. Extraordinary pieces such as these will appear alongside contemporary collaborations with the world’s biggest brands. Think: Arthur Silver of Silver Studio, Jean Muir, Cacharel, Yves Saint Laurent, Vivienne Westwood, and even sports giant, Nike. An incongruent blend of names, perhaps, yet they merely highlight Arthur Lasenby Liberty’s determination “not to follow existing fashion, but to create new ones.”

30 25/09/2015 12:27


FASHION / FLASHBACK

Through the ensembles and accessories on display the store’s status as a pioneer of key fashion trends comes to the fore. Liberty & Co.’s 1884 opening of its dress department established the retailer of silk, cashmere, lacquerware and furniture as the place for exotic textiles and ornaments. But what it also did was mark the genesis of the unmistakable ‘Liberty’ style. From the vast array of imports from Japan, India and the Middle East, 19th century Orientalism was blended with 20th century Art Nouveau and Art Deco movements, creating the Liberty aesthetic rife with floral, paisley and patterned prints. This mode of “artistic dressing” championed loose-fitting, ART NOUVEAU FASHION USING 'CONSTANTIA', 1961, © LIBERTY LONDON

Ensembles and accessories DISPLAY LIBERTY’S status as a PIONEER OF KEY FASHION trends 'HERA' FABRIC, © COPYRIGHT OF LIBERTY FABRIC LIMITED

Liberty in Fashion From 9 October, Fashion and Textile Museum, 83 Bermondsey Street, SE1; ftmlondon.org

COCKTAIL DRESS BY ARNOLD SCAASI, 1961, USING 'EUSTACIA' FABRIC, © ERNESTINE CARTER ARCHIVE, BATH AND NORTH EAST SOMERSET COUNCIL

31 NH_Oct15_LM.indd 31

medieval inspired outfits, so distinct they attracted a loyal following of noted aesthetes, including Mary Quant, Dante Gabriel Rossetti, Frederic Leighton, Jean Muir, Dame Ellen Terry and Oscar Wilde, who famously declared that, “Liberty is the chosen resort of the artistic shopper.” But perhaps Liberty’s enduring success lies with another cause: its continued adaptability to changing tastes. While maintaining a strong grip on its identity, the brand steeped in British tradition is not ignorant to the ever-evolving desires of contemporary society. Because of Liberty’s understanding and awareness of its customers’ needs, chances are we’ll soon be ringing in its 300th birthday in 160 years’ time. u

OCTOBER 2015

25/09/2015 12:27


TEMPERLEY LONDON SS16

FELT

© MATILDA TEMPERLEY

FASHION / ROUND UP

Eugenia Kim ‘Georgina’ Gold Splatter Fedora, £275; liberty.co.uk

Head

Why be dull when you can dazzle? Instead of the staid solid black or plain grey styles, atop your tête this winter with one of these far more interesting hat designs. Try a bright hue à la Johnstons of Elgin if you’re feeling bold. Or, go for slightly more subtle embellished looks such as these from Charlotte Simone and Markus Lupfer.

FUZZY

Charlotte Simone ‘Sass’ Cap, £95; charlottesimone.com

FUR

Fendi Trapper Hat, £1,200; matchesfashion.com

EMBELLISHED

Markus Lupfer Jewel Beanie, £150; markuslupfer.com

BOBBL AW15

CABLE KNIT

Johnstons of Elgin Luxe Cable Hat, £75; johnstonscashmere.com

ADDED DIMENSION Use texture to put the wow factor back into your winter accessorising

FAUX FUR

Shrimps ‘Martha’ Scarf, £185; shrimps.co.uk

© SHERION MULLINGS

Wo r d s S T E P H A N I E K I N G

EMBROIDERED

Temperley London ‘Flutura’ Dinner Scarf, £395; temperleylondon.com

SHEARLING

Marni Belted Bib, £1,490; netaporter.com

SILK

Silken Favours ‘Nature’s Candy’ Scarf, £150; silkenfavours.com

© MATILDA TEMPERLEY

Neck

Consider 2015 as the year you finally eschew bobbly knitted snoods and threadbare check scarves. Yes, this is the year you officially do away with passé pashminas, because there are simply too many fantastic choices available. For AW15 designers are experimenting with textiles, shapes and techniques, and you should too. Case in point? Silken Favours (right).

TEMPERLEY LONDON AW15

29 C&A_Nov15_ACCESSORIES.indd 29

DECEMBER 2015

04/11/2015 11:48


FASHION / ROUND UP

Hands

MARKUS LUPFER AW15

Possibly the most frustrating accessory, gloves can be more trouble than they’re worth, with non-descript woven versions often suffering a fate that ends in joining the Lost Property box. Well, not any more. Forgetting your mitt-warmers is a distant memory thanks quirkier designs coming into the fashion fold, namely these fun appliquéd accessories by Karl Lagerfeld and Aristide. LANVIN AW15

STUDDED

Valentino ‘Rockstud’ Gloves, £285; matchesfashion.com

WOOLLEN

Karl Lagerfeld Choupette Mittens, £55; luisaviaroma.com

FYODOR GOLAN AW15

CUT-OUT

Aristide ‘A Kiss’ Leather Gloves, £103; aristide.com

COTTON

Happy Socks Argyle Socks, £8; happysocks.com

MERINO

Falke Tights, £30; johnlewis.com

BAMBOO

Baserange Over-the-Knee Socks, £18; couvertureand thegarbstore.com

POLKA DOT

Wolford ‘Daria’ Socks, £14; selfridges.com

Feet

Champion the ‘alternate’ way of keeping your feet cosy during the upcoming cooler months. Whether you go down the more eye-catching route by way of Happy Socks’ argyle pair, or cover your limbs in Baserange’s sustainable bamboo socks, with these interesting pieces you’ll look great from head-to-toe.

HOUSE OF HACKNEY X WILLIAM MORRIS AW15

30 C&A_Nov15_ACCESSORIES.indd 30

DECEMBER 2015

04/11/2015 11:49


st y l e C e n t r a l

Snakeskin, culottes and statement sandals are at the top of our must-buy list this August Wo r d s c h a r l o t t e a d s e t t

SELFPORTRAIT Wo r d s s t e p h a n i e k i n g

loggers fawn over it; celebrities to wear it; and us, we B clamour just simply want to get our hands on it. Self-portrait, the luxury womenswear label founded in 2013 by Han Chong, is technically an emerging brand; but with such a refined aesthetic and such a clearly defined vision, self-portrait appears as established as the Valentinos and Elie Saabs of this world. The Central Saint Martins alumnus enrobes names such as Reese Witherspoon, Miranda Kerr and Rachel McAdams; yet its figure-flattering cuts are for every shape. Chong uses guipere lace, embroidery and layered textiles to celebrate the female form, where each piece is a veritable head-turner. It is for this very reason that every occasion simply demands a self-portrait ensemble. So with all of our diaries brimming with spring/summer weddings, consider selfportrait’s Pre-Fall ’15 collection your go-to brand. Pick from an array of semi sheer midi dresses, with underlays highlighting gingham and leaf patterns; culottes and co-ord tops with exaggerated box pleat peplums; and a colour palette of black, bordeaux, white and steel blue. With a self-portrait wedding wardrobe, you’ll look so good it will make the relatively miniscule price you pay (for a designer brand, that is) even sweeter. u ● SELF-PORTRAIT

From, £140; self-portrait-studio.com

ABSOLUTELY MAGAZINES

CHIS_AUG15_Fashion_Confidential.indd 20

Making Waves Melissa Odabash

If you are still looking for that dream swimsuit, bikini or kaftan for your summer holiday, then look no further than swimwear designer to the stars, Melissa Odabash. Melissa’s striking brights and trademark animal prints are a hit with the A-list including Kate Middleton, Gwyneth Paltrow, and Kate Moss. melissaodabash.com

20 30/07/2015 10:29


FASHION / JEWELLERY

Heaven Sent 1

2

3

8

6

4

7

5

1. ANNOUSHKA, LOVE DIAMONDS LUNAR PENDANT IN YELLOW GOLD, £1,900; annoushka.com 2. DIANE KORDAS, DIAMOND & ROSE GOLD STARBURST CUFF, £7,245; matchesfashion.com 3. BOCHIC, ‘STARBURST’ DIAMOND 18CT GOLD EARRINGS, £10,415; harveynichols.com 4. COLETTE JEWELRY, ‘WHITE STAR’ NECKLACE, £38,897; luisaviaroma.com 5. BENTLEY & SKINNER, ‘LOVE, MAGIC AND DREAMS’ STAR CHOKER, £36,000; bentley-skinner.co.uk 6. PERCOSSI, ‘PAPI, SUN AND MOON’ GOLD-PLATED MULTI-STONE EARRINGS, £700; netaporter.com 7. NOOR FARES, ‘ECLIPSE’ 18CT GRAY GOLD MULTI-STONE RING, £7,250; netaporter.com 8. CHANEL, COMÈTE RING IN 18CT WHITE GOLD & DIAMONDS, £19,750; chanel.com

43 NH_Oct15_JEWELLERY.indd 43

OCTOBER 2015

25/09/2015 12:38


st y l e C e n t r a l

Lace-up gladiator sandals, boho-luxe dresses, and monogrammed beach bags are at the top of this month’s shopping list Wo r d s c h a r l o t t e a d s e t t

Bionda Castana Wo r d s s t e p h a n i e k i n g

An eye for design cannot be taught. It is an innate skill, and something that the founders of luxury footwear label Bionda Castana were born with. Since 2007 blonde-haired Jennifer Portman (‘Bionda’) and brunette Natalia Barbieri (‘Castana’) have been tapping into said ability and creating shoes that are the winning combination of impeccably high quality Italian craftsmanship and an unfailingly cool London aesthetic. But perhaps the best thing about Bionda Castana – now even more accessible following its Belgravia flagship boutique opening in June – is that it’s the footwear brand for every woman, not just socialites and FROWers. (Though the devoted celebrity following, including Olivia Palermo, Kate Bosworth and Zoe Saldana might suggest otherwise.) Barbieri and Portman draw shoe-spiration from their model client: the woman with a quiet confidence, a distinct sense of style and an understated elegance. This manifested in Bionda Castana’s SS15 line as grid, spot and stripe prints; mesh panelling juxtaposed with classic pointed pump styles; and pastel leathers featuring laser cut detailing. The friends and business partners brought forward the latter technique to AW15, where their Zoe sandals (pictured) have already received the stamp of approval from Lady Gaga and Jessica Alba. But if, for some bizarre reason, you’re unable to find your perfect fit within the latest, 70s-infused range, there’s always Bionda Castana’s bespoke service, in which you can custom-make a pair adapted from the label's designs. With an innovative business approach like this, it’s no wonder why UK luxury brand alliance Walpole dubbed Bionda Castana a Brand of Tomorrow. B I O N DA C A S TA N A

 73 Elizabeth Street, SW1W; biondacastana.com

ABSOLUTELY MAGAZINES

CHIS_JULY15_Fashion_Confidential.indd 36

Prints Charming Zimmermann

When it comes to swimwear and key holiday pieces, cult Australian brand Zimmermann is our number one go-to. This season, sisters Nicky and Simone Zimmermann have fused strong silhouettes with pretty prints and delicate fabrics, such as lace and broderie anglaise, to create a dream beach wardrobe. zimmermann.com

36 25/06/2015 11:10


STYLE / JEWELLERY

SPRING FINERY 1

2

3

8

6

4

7

5

1. MARIA BLACK JEWELLERY, 'REVIER' DIAMOND RING IN 18CT ROSE GOLD, £260; maria-black.com 2. ELENA VOTSI, 'EROS' 18CT GOLD DIAMOND EARRINGS, £6,200; elenavotsi.com 3. THEO FENNELL, 'SPANGLE' 18CT ROSE GOLD HOOP EARRINGS WITH 3.96CT DIAMONDS, £11,950; theofennell.com 4. REPOSSI, 'WHITE NOISE' 18CT ROSE GOLD BRACELET, £8,050; repossi.com 5. CHRISTINAORTIZ, 'SNAKE' DIAMOND RING IN 9CT ROSE GOLD, £2,200; cristinaortiz.com 6. NOOR FARES, 'PENDULUM' DIAMOND NECKLACE IN 18CT GOLD, £7,880; noorfares.com 7. NATASHA ZINKO, 8CT GOLD DIAMOND BUNNY RING, £2,280; natashazinko.com 8. ILEANA MAKRI, WIRE 18CT GOLD DIAMOND CUFF, £13,600; ileanamakri.com

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APRIL 2015

26/03/2015 15:50


> BEAUTY CONFIDENTIAL

p. 42

BEAUTY GIFT GUIDE

p. 45

HEADS UP Become a Dior girl for the festive season and take heed of the brand’s new State of Gold collection. Paint your pout vibrant shades, your nails in metallic hues, and keep your eyes smouldering using the darkest kohl. dior.com

41 Chis_Dec15_Beauty_Opener.indd 41

DECEMBER 2015

17/11/2015 16:37


B E AU T Y R e v i e w

A fresh take on beauty for the new year and luscious lacquers to keep your nails in check W o r d s R o m y va n d e n B r o e k e

DANIEL GALVIN Kensington

Wo r d s s t e p h a n i e k i n g

I

t’s difficult to avoid restorting to cliché when describing the luxury you experience when visiting Daniel Galvin Kensington. Exceptional service is promised, and it is exactly what you will receive. Walking into the elegant salon you’re greeted by sunny receptionists and a bright interior epitomising refined glamour: white walls accented by state-of-theart equipment, marble counter tops, tall vases filled with freshly cut flowers, Tom Dixon lamps, two-two leather chairs and matte gold finishings. You’d be correct in thinking this foreshadows the type of hair treatment you’re about to receive. I’m here for half a head of highlights. After being escorted downstairs

THIS TRESS wizard only needs to ask a FEW QUESTIONS my wonderful, talented colourist, Lily, asks me the type of look I’d like to achieve, shortly setting to work with surgical precision. Foils in and peppermint tea in hand, I’m left to pore over the wide range of magazines at my station, and the menu from across-the-road Nouvelle Delicatessen. The timer buzzes and, after a good shampoo and condition, the warm, knowledgeable Bradley takes me upstairs. This tress wizard only needs to ask a few questions to gauge my desired hair shape, and in minutes he’s worked his magic. All parties satisfied, I’m on way, leaving not only with one of the best hair cut-n-colours I’ve ever had, but also with the knowledge that the Daniel Galvin team comprises stylists you can trust. ◆

Clean Slate Bobbi Brown

Look at things differently with Bobbi Brown’s new eye-opening mascara. Promising to lift each individual lash, it coats them with intense colour and leaves them looking both longer and thicker. bobbibrown.com

● D A N I E L G A LV I N 67 Abingdon Road, W8; danielgalvin.com

ABSOLUTELY MAGAZINES

YES CHIS_Jan16_Beauty_Notes.indd 48

48 15/12/2015 11:23


B E AU T Y R e v i e w

Beauty forecasts from the SS16 shows, hot new cosmetic launches and the bee venom trend W o r d s R o m y va n d e n B r o e k e

THE CHELSEA DAY SPA Wo r d s s t e p h a n i e k i n g

T

he falling leaves and extra nip in the air not only signifies that winter is indeed coming, but that it’s time to prepare vulnerable skin for the winter chill. This is why I’ve gone straight to The Chelsea Day Spa, whose 60-minute Darphin Kiwi & Pomegranate Hydrator Facial promises to give all of the preventative hydration I need. Today my therapist is Naomi, who is straight down to business. She starts by giving my face a deep cleanse with the ultra gentle Darphin Intral Cleansing Milk. A good exfoliation – neck included – then gives my tired epidermis a much-needed refresh. Naomi swiftly coats my face with a luxuriously nourishing Darphin Hydrating Kiwi Mask containing shea butter, vitamin E, and kiwi, pomegranate and mango extracts. The effect is immediate; I can feel the warming sensation as the natural ingredients penetrate my skin. Though the next part of the facial is never fun, Naomi’s extraction technique is brilliantly novel, as she clears blocked pores in sections, separating my face into quadrants and applying ice water immediately after to soothe. She then further minimises redness with a cool clay mask before cleansing and massaging my tired décolletage. A cool towel to remove the hydrating products quickly livens my skin, and Naomi’s final jolt of hydrotherapy occurs through a warm towel she wraps over my face. A light layer of Darphin’s MelaPerfect Skin Tone Brightening Moisturiser instantly adds a radiant finish to my complexion. Treatment complete, I leave with unbelievably hydrated, wonderfully dewy skin, and well prepared for the cooler months ahead. £85. ◆

Doe-Eyed NARS x Erdem

Think ahead and start channeling SS16's hottest beauty looks. A favourite of ours comes from make-up artist Val Garland, who gave the models tea-stained eyes and creamy skin at Erdem’s SS16 show. narscosmetics.com

● T H E C H E L S E A DAY S PA 69A King's Road, SW3; thechelseadayspa.co.uk

ABSOLUTELY MAGAZINES

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66 27/10/2015 16:32


B E AU T Y R e v i e w

Embrace autumn with the hottest new beauty launches and fragrances W o r d s R o m y va n d e n B r o e k e

USHVANI An oasis in Chelsea

Wo r d s S T e P H A N I E K I N G

U

pon entering Ushvani you’re immediately greeted with a surprise: the discovery of a hidden oasis, right in the centre of Chelsea. No, really, an actual oasis, tucked away in one of Cadogan Gardens’ beautiful Grade II Georgian buildings. Designed to emulate Balinese spas, Ushvani’s burnt orange and dark wood decor transforms its church cloisters-like interior into an exotic paradise. The ladies-only lower ground floor feels like a secret subterranean lagoon, with its hydrotherapy pool and plush relaxation lounge. Today’s experience is the 90-minute Warming Nutmeg Flower Ritual. Beginning with a quick shower using luxuriously fragrant nutmeg flower wash – containing a blend of 33 essential oils – you lie face first on an incredibly comfortable massage table. The house’s indulgent coconut and hibiscus oil enhances the South East Asian deep tissue techniques applied to your back, which have a wonderful circulation-boosting effect. The focus is then directed to reflex points on your feet. Ushvani’s coconut and kemiri body butter nourishes tired soles and feels fantastic, even after your therapist has moved on to your stomach to perform a light massage – brilliant for increasing your metabolic rate and reducing bloating. To finish, an invigorating face and scalp massage instantly brightens your skin and keeps it looking revitalised. Though Ushvani’s very meaning is a blend of the Sanskrit words, ‘dawn’ and ‘earth,’ we’d like to propose an English definition: your urban sanctuary. Warming Nutmeg Flower Ritual, £180 ◆

Brit Girl Burberry Beauty

Heading this season’s Burberry beauty is quintessential brit girl, Amber Anderson. Wendy Rowe, Burberry’s make-up artistic consultant, wants us looking effortless and fresh for fall. uk.burberry.com

● U S H VA N I 1 Cadogan Gardens, SW3; ushvani.com

ABSOLUTELY MAGAZINES

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© FREDERIC ARANDA, UNTITLED, 2015 O N D I S L PAY AT OPERA GALLERY, W1S, 1-18 JULY 2015

> TALKING TOPICS p. 16 MARKET STALL THEATRE p. 18 SELGASCANO'S SERPENTINE p. 20 PORTRAITS OF AN ICON p. 22

RAW FOOTAGE Expose yourself to the provocative works of world-renowned photographers Mario Testino, David LaChapelle, Paul Solomans and Frederic Aranda. Focusing on the body and its role in fashion – conservative, these images are not. 1-18 July; operagallery.com

15 CH_FUL_JULY15_Culture_Opener.indd 15

JULY 2015

25/06/2015 10:50


HOME & INTERIORS / ART INSIDER

Life Style

Chris Burden, Urban Light (2008) at LACMA

Ecommerce giant Farfetch bookends 2015 with its final design tome of the year Wo r d s S t e p h a n i e K i n g

T

here is too much fashionable art and too much arty fashion,” writes Stefano Tonchi, Editor-in-Chief of W Magazine, in Farfetch Curates: Art, the third and final release of ecommerce giant Farfetch’s coffee table book series. Previously exploring food and design, this final offering filters today’s most influential art names through Farfetch’s luxury fashion lens. With so many women regarding fashion as wearable art, it seems to be a natural pairing: “Fashion and art are intrinsically linked; there is a reason why people who are passionate about fashion are usually passionate about art, too,” explains Stephanie Horton, Chief Marketing Officer at Farfetch and Editorial Director of the Farfetch Curates series. Since 2008 Farfetch has been giving its customers unprecedented access to over 300 independent designer

FASHION AND ART ARE INTRINSICALLY LINKED

Fashion designer Roksanda Ilincic with Jeff Koons's Puppy Vase (1998)

access, but to the art world through insights from some of the industry’s most respected figures: Emma Reeves of LA’s Museum of Contemporary Art, artist Eli Sudbrack of ‘assume vivid astro focus,’ and Miami’s powerful art family, the Rubells, all weigh in, with Skye Sherwin reporting on international cities that are fast becoming art capitals. Hikari Yokoyama, Brand Consultant & Curator of online auction house Paddle8, shares invaluable tips on buying art and where to look, meanwhile the book also highlights prominent collectors such as Roksanda Illincic, who cherishes her 1998 Jeff Koons

boutiques; via the online platform shoppers literally have a world of fashion at their fingertips. This tome allows a similar level of exclusive

The Rubell Family Collection: Keith Haring Statue of Liberty (1982)

85 B&C_Dec15_FARFETCH CURATES.indd 85

Puppy Vase (left). Though the founder of Roksanda takes inspiration “from everything around me, whether it is art, architecture, magazines, or friends,” Illincic’s liquorice allsort-toned spring/summer ’16 collection, she tells us, is best encapsulated by “modern ballet, one of my favourite art forms.” Perhaps a little more tangible, however, are the creations available at Lali Shop or The Shop at Bluebird, suggests Morton. But, as she also points out, “with both cutting edge enthusiasts [and] a series which approaches topics from both a global and fashion perspective,” you could say Farfetch Curates: Art is a piece of art in and of itself. ◆

Farfetch Curates: Art, hardback published by Assouline, on sale December 2015; £16, farfetch.com

DECEMBER 2015

09/11/2015 14:42


XXXXXX / XXXXXXX

SelgasCano’s

SERPENTINE The 15th anniversary of the Serpentine Pavilion sees architects José Selgas & Lucía Cano make their Spanish mark on Kensington Gardens Wo r d s s t e p h a n i e k i n g

S

ummer is a time for transformation, for metamorphosis, for rebirth. Once again the Serpentine Galleries remind us of this with their annual Pavilion commission. To date the internationally renowned event has seen inspiring structures designed by some of the world’s most influential artists and architects take up residence on the Kensington Gardens lawn during the warmer months. And this year is no exception. To celebrate its 15th anniversary, the Serpentine Pavilion welcomes award-winning Spanish architects, José Selgas and Lucía Cano of SelgasCano, whose chrysalis-reminiscent installation will remain a fixture until 18 October. From the initial renderings (far right), SelgasCano’s efforts do not let down the exhibit’s long-standing reputation, reaffirming its place amongst the Top 10 Most Visited Architectural and Design Exhibitions in the World. Serpentine Galleries Director Julia Peyton-Jones and Co-Director Hans Ulrich Obrist have described the Pavilion as a showcase of “some of the boldest

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names, Herzog & de Meuron and Ai Weiwei, Smiljan Radic, and Sou Fujimoto. SelgasCano’s 2015 structure can hold its own against these titans of design; the amorphous building commands attention with its rainbow-hued “skin” of opaque and translucent fluorine-based plastic. This webbed membrane is merely one example of the Madrid agency’s unique practice, where SelgasCano has carved a path for itself by unexpectedly blending synthetic materials with new technologies. This Merida Factory Youth Movement, Merida, Spain distinctive style assumes the form of Plasencia Auditorium and Congress Centre built in Cáceres, Spain in 2009, and 2011’s Merida's Factory Youth Project (left). This year’s Serpentine Pavilion highlights Selgas and Cano’s proclivity for bold, bright tones and their philosophy that “design needs to connect with nature.” SelgasCano’s multi-access and innovative designs in contemporary temporary building is sympathetic to its architecture.” Indeed it is, if the past 14 surroundings, with smooth, organic lines years are anything to go by. mimicking those of the Royal Park. At its Selgas and Cano have had to compete nucleus, the structure houses a café – in with impressive past commissions by compliance with the Serpentine Galleries’ Frank Gehry, Daniel Libeskind, Zaha stipulation – as well as a stained glassHadid, Peter Zumthor and Jean Nouvel. effect inner shell accessible via ‘secret’ Not least are the most recent years'

DESIGN needs to CONNECT with

nature

24 25/06/2015 14:21


ARTS & CULTURE / FOCUS

Final rendering of SelgasCano's 2015 Serpentine Pavilion

Architects José Selgas and Lucía Cano

corridor. Describing their concept, the Madrid-based architects explain: “Based on pure visitor experience, we sought a way to allow the public to experience architecture through simple elements,” say the architects. More specifically? “Structure, light, transparency, shadows, lightness, form, sensitivity, change, surprise, colour and materials.” The 2015 Pavilion’s chrysalis-like frame is an evolution of Smiljan Radic’s “space pod” of 2014 that was nestled on a pile of Neolithic-looking stones. A stark contrast to Hadid and Gehry’s Pavilions: Hadid’s 2000 entry comprised a 600sqm tent built with a steel triangulated frame,

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where Gehry’s 2008 “deconstructed house” featured with clunky beams, suspended planes of timber and glass, and four steel columns as anchors. Ultimately, though? While this ephemeral, interactive work of art will vanish with the changing of the seasons, what will endure is its legacy and the innovation and growth in design Serpentine Galleries’ Pavilion inspires. u ● ● s e r p e n t i n e pav i l i o n From 25 June, Serpentine Galleries, Kensington Gardens, W2; serpentinegalleries.org

JULY 2015

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> INTERIOR INSPIRATIONS

p. 76

INTERIORS GIFT GUIDE

p. 81

FINISHING TOUCHES

p. 83

ZARA HOME

ROCKET YULE Elegant shapes, mix-and-match colours and motifs, and some great tropical touches all make Zara Home's latest range of tableware irresistible. We’re all set for an unconventional Christmas blowout. zarahome.com

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DECEMBER 2015

09/11/2015 14:28


HOME & INTERIORS / PROFILE

AT HIS CORE We go inside the mind of multi awardwinning designer Greg Natale, as his debut tome, The Tailored Interior, hits UK shores Wo r d s S t e p h a n i e K i n g

“I

believe design and daily life are intrinsically interlinked. We live design in everything we do,” says interior designer Greg Natale. The Australian should know; he’s headed up his own, highly esteemed brand, Greg Natale Design for almost 15 years. “To me, design can be decorative and beautiful, but the way in which it improves or enriches our lives is when it’s successful,” he continues. Success should be a familiar concept to Natale, who has received multiple accolades, including 2011 and 2014’s Interior Designer of the Year at the Belle Coco Republic Interior Design Awards. What is his award-winning aesthetic?

one-trick pony; he loves to challenge himself and his team – such being the case when fitting out Sydney women’s boutique, Uscari, which he says was “aesthetically a bit of a divergence from my usual work… The industrialchic direction created an opportunity to really exploit materials and the space for decorative and functional effect.” So if this was an unusual client request for Natale, what is the designer’s typical brief? “Broadly speaking, it’s a clean, pared-back look. [Australia’s] climate and light dictates that we probably lean more towards a Scandinavian aesthetic, though we have a more open relationship between indoors and out.” Which is probably why Natale titled his first design tome, The Tailored Interior, as his use of “decorative elements is very considered and completely tailored.” Having just been

“I always explore what’s new and push the boundaries, but I am currently loving brass and using metals to make spaces pop.” Although, the Sydney University of Technology graduate maintains “layering of patterns and playing with contrast and colour have always been signature gestures.” Yet Natale is no

I ALWAYS

explore what’s NEW and PUSH THE

boundaries 71 B&C_Nov15_STEPH_INTERIOR_2.indd 71

published in the UK, Natale explains how the book came about: “I’m always asked for design advice on what makes a space work... I don’t pretend to have all the answers, the book comes from my experience and the techniques and tools I employ to complete my projects.” Can he give us some tips? For an instant update, “Rugs and cushions really change a space and make it appear so different, really effortlessly.” This is probably why, in addition to his many brand collaborations, he’s also released his own cushion range (available online) comprising “21 designs: The colours range from black and white, to elegant blues, vivid greens and some warming greys and burnt orange... There is pattern, texture and so much colour to work with.” What’s next for Greg Natale? “By mid-next year we will have completed some landmark projects in Australia and the United States; our new headquarters will be complete; and we have so many exciting product and furniture lines that I can’t wait to share.” ◆

NOVEMBER 2015

29/10/2015 10:20


10 of the best for a

clean slate

Minimalistic pieces for a clean look in the New Year

OLIVER BONAS

Luxe Marble Drink Trolley; £350, oliverbonas.com

Wo r d s J e s s i c a k l i n g e l f u s s

GRAHAM & GREEN

Bamboo Lampshade in Black; £125, grahamandgreen.co.uk

MINT

Pixel Table; £POA, mintshop.co.uk

BODIE AND FOU

must

Kaeko Table; £790, bodieandfou.com

HAVE

Tress Code JONATHAN ADLER

Rutledge Sofa; £3,250, jonathanadler.com

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Pinch London-based design brand Pinch is bringing a renewed sense of pleasure to routine grooming with its ‘Iona Chevil Mirror’. The fulllength, pivoting elliptical mirror – available in oak with a white oiled finish – features a shaker-style joint and brass rivet detail on one side, supported in an A-frame with a lacquered drawer box below. £2,055; pinchdesign.com

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HOMES & INTERIORS / NOTES ROSE & GREY

Marble White Wallpaper; £199, roseandgrey.co.uk

SHINE YOUR LIGHT

Tom D ixon Extraordinary objects for everyday use; this is the Tom Dixon way. Even something as simple as a tea light holder can be turned into a wood grain shadow maker. Consider us impressed, again. ‘Etch’ Tealight Holder, £50; tomdixon.net

A STITCH IN TIME

editor’s

PICK

STEPEVI Originating in Istanbul, 1919, this luxury carpet company has been creating some of the most inspired rugs, runners and home accessories. Now, STEPEVI combines modern technology with traditional construction techniques and the resulting products are sheer works of art. stepevi.com

NICK FRASER

Geometric Pendant Half Glazed; £36, culturelabel.com

POUR IT UP

Alessi This iconic 9093 stainless steel kettle by Michael Graves is synonymous with Alessi. To mark its 30th anniversary, Graves has redesigned it, replacing the tweeting bird with a Tyrannosaurus rexshaped whistle. £99.95; alessi.com

ARCHITECTMADE

Finn Juhl Clock; £649, skandium.com

HABITAT

Tatsuma White Dressing Table; £150, habitat.co.uk

STREAM STYLIN’

Zip Form meets function with Zip’s popular HydroTap G4 range. Now available in three striking designs – Arc, Cube, and Elite – get filtered boiling, chilled and sparkling water, instantly, from a tap that complements your kitchen thanks to the four finishes to choose from. zipwater.com

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OKA

Kumozu Bedside Table; £585, okadirect.com

JANUARY 2016

15/12/2015 11:47


ARTS & CULTURE / PROFILE

TURN AGAIN Form meets function at the Royal College of Art’s contemporary ceramics fair, Ceramic Art London

R

ecognising some of the world's best contemporary ceramicists is what the Royal College of Art’s latest exhibition is all about. Ceramic Art London is a collaboration between Ceramic Review and Craft Potters Association and it sees the exquisite work of 80 emerging and established artists featured in a weekendlong fair held in the RCA’s Henry Moore and Gulbenkian Galleries. Now in its 11th year, Ceramic Art London is not just for avid collectors or those in the industry; it is for all pottery enthusiasts. Visitors of the shoppable event can expect ceramics spanning a range of forms, as well as a programme of expert talks, technique demonstrations and films. Before you discover these playmakers of porcelain, take a look below at our pick of Ceramic Art London’s leading artists. O u r Favo u r ite F o u r

Chris Keenan aving shown at galleries from the V&A and Contemporary Art Society in London, to Oxford’s Ashmolean Museum and York Art Gallery, Chris Keenan’s elegant works are coveted by the British audience. But his H

©CERAMIC ART LONDON

Wo r d s S T E P H A N I E K I N G

Myung Nam An, Golden Eye series, slipcast porcelain

pieces also have global appeal, too, as the former apprentice of Edmund de Waal spent six weeks as Mashiko Museum of Ceramic Art’s Artist-in-Residence. The Japanese ethos of marrying form and function was certainly a perfect fit for Keenan’s double-glazed porcelain designs, which, despite their fine appearance, are built for everyday use. Despite only starting in ceramics in his mid-30s, this late bloomer has made substantial ground, now rivalling his contemporaries one bowl, cup and jug at a time.

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Myung Nam An yung Nam An’s aim is simple: to encourage us to think. Whether it’s by putting forward designs that challenge our notion of beauty, or by encouraging us to question a certain issue she feels needs addressing, Myung's audience is pushed to become active participants when examining her work. Figuring out how to transform cultural images and events into a ceramic medium is part of the fun, says Myung, whose abstract designs have been presented in highly respected showcases M

APRIL 2015

26/03/2015 18:00


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Gareth Mason, Arete, stoneware, earthenware, porcelain, glaze, slips, slate, 2012-13. Courtesy of Ceramic Art London

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ARTS & CULTURE / PROFILE ©CERAMIC ART LONDON

©CERAMIC ART LONDON

Angela Mellor, Green and Gold Spray Vessel, slipcast bone china with paperclay inclusions

ORGANIC contours,

tonal contrasts and

PATTERNS PROVIDE

a continuing source of INSPIRATION

alterations to their forms. Clearly Kotan’s recent years spent living in Switzerland have augmented this tendency, the Swiss precision rubbing off on her dark stoneware. And, with a solo exhibition at Beaux Arts in Bath in 2013 under her belt, Kotan is going from strength to strength: her minimal pieces continuing to make up what they lack in wild flourishes, in power. u ©CERAMIC ART LONDON

Jo Davies, Flat Spin Pendant, porcelain with stoneware crackle glaze, nepheline syenite based

such as Art Teipei, Affordable Art Fair in New York, London, Brussels, Hong Kong, Singapore, Hamburg, and Maison & Objet in Paris.

Angela Mellor or Angela Mellor, experimenting with bone china’s ability to transmit light is the focus of her artistic attention. While seeking to re-interpret her 'visceral response to the effects of light on the landscape,' Mellor finds that the 'organic contours, tonal contrasts and patterns provide a continuing source of inspiration.' The Cheshire-born artist is renowned for her delicate translucent texture signature, a tracery technique achieved by F

manipulating the paperslip medium she integrates into her pieces. Mellor continues to investigate the bounds of decorative and functional design, no doubt influenced by her time spent in Australia where she had a solo exhibition at Craftwest in Perth.

Ipek Kotan pplying a deft hand to vessel construction, Turkish ceramicist Ipek Kotan adopts a ‘less is more’ approach to her designs. The emphasis of her timeless creations is in the nuance, preferring to make subtle changes to classic styles. Centring on the finer details is what separates Kotan from a lot of ceramicists, who typically make larger A

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Ipek Kotan, Large Flat Sculptural Vessel Form, Limoges porcelain with bronze glaze, 2012

Ceramic Art London, 17-19 April, Royal College of Art, Kensington Gore, SW7 ceramics.org.uk

APRIL 2015

26/03/2015 18:00


HOME & INTERIORS / DECORATIONS

Holiday HOMES

BOCA DO LOBO

PORTUGAL

Make wanderlust a thing of the past with interiors that transform your home into your favourite faraway destination

BOCA DO LOBO

Wo r d s S t e p h a n i e K i n g

L'Objet

erhaps a little forgotten in the past, finally Portugal and more specifically, Portuguese design, is being appreciated on a global scale. BOCA DO LOBO is arguably one of the best suppliers of home interiors typifying this maximalist aesthetic of Spain’s neighbour. Inject a little (or a lot) of Portugal’s vibrant atmosphere with items from this online store’s vast range of eclectic showstoppers. A Pinterestworthy abode awaits. ◆ bocadolobo.com P

An Angel at my Table

ITALY Selva

hile they’re renowned for over-the-top design, the Italians’ propensity for ostentatiousness often silences the other look of Italy: that of restrained luxury. With Selva, the same Italian essence is there in curved lines and W

TURKEY L'Objet

idn’t quite book your annual leave in time? No problem! Create your own urban oasis with luxury pieces from L’Objet. Thanks to founder Elad Yifrach’s Mediterraneaninspired designs, you’ll soon be celebrating the festive season in a Turkish palace of your own. And using its new range of Parfums de Voyage – home fragrances inspired by travel – emulating Turkey’s exotic smells will be a breeze. ◆ l-objet.com

frames, and sumptuous soft furnishings are all to be expected here. ◆ anangelatmytable.com

FRANCE

SCANDINAVIA

D

An Angel at my Table

f you’re craving a life that is more bohème I than basic, An Angel at my Table has an abundance of Rococo inspired décor that’ll instantly add romance to the blandest of rooms. Crystal chandeliers, wrought iron bed

Selva

best furniture exports is ASPLUND, which sells pared-back pieces with a touch of humour. ◆ asplundstore.se

ASPLUND

hen the pace of London gets too much, flee to the minimalist shores of Scandinavia. The always sleek, occasionally quirky trademark of a Scandi creation is all you’ll need to restore that inner equilibrium. One of Sweden’s W

ASPLUND

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luxurious materials, but in a more subtle form. Superior quality is guaranteed, and an elegant opulence is to be expected from any piece of Selva furniture. ◆ luxdeco.com

OCTOBER 2015

25/09/2015 15:15


10 of the best

contemporary classics

Rud Rasmussen pays tribute to Denmark’s first modern design classic Wo r d s J e s s i c a k l i n g e l f u s s

GRAHAM & GREEN

Clio Sofa Collection, From £2,450; grahamandgreen.co.uk

SARAH CAMPBELL

Mosaic Jewellery Box, £74; westelm.co.uk

must

HAVE

TIVOLI

Model Three Clock Radio in Cherry/Taupe, £199; goodhoodstore.com

LUNA & CURIOUS

Large Striped Throw, £85; lunaandcurious.com

JONATHAN ADLER Delphine Mirrored Bar, £2,995; jonathanadler.com

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Danish Modern Rud Rasmussen Kaare Klint’s iconic ‘Faaborg Chair’, the chair that helped to propel Denmark onto the global design map, is turning a grand 100 years old. In celebration of this centennial, Rud Rasmussen is releasing a ten-piece special edition alongside a numbered anniversary edition in walnut and upholstered in a lush, black Niger leather. Snap up the latter now. ‘Faaborg Chair Anniversary Edition’, £3,160, available from 16A Bowling Green Lane, EC1R; rudrasmussen.com

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HOMES & INTERIORS / NOTES WEST ELM

Palmette Chenille Wool Kilim Rug, From £299; westelm.co.uk

BIRDS OF A FEATHER Oliver Bonas

...Flock together, as the saying goes. We say, you can never have enough salad servers especially when this pair is concerned. Featuring elegant gold tone feather handles even the plainest of salad bowls will look instantly sophisticated. £24; oliverbonas.com

TO THE MOON AND BACK Nelly Duff

Sabrina Kaici’s hand signed screenprint, ‘Full Moon Silver’ is one of the many cool, incredibly affordable works available at this Columbia Road gallery. But really, it’s yet another example of why we love this East London shop to the moon and back. £40; nellyduff.com

PAOLA PETROBELLI ‘Doppio’ Small Vase in Orange/Grey, £1,700; othercriteria.com

FRAMA

Copper Light Fitting with Black Cord, £35; goodhoodstore.com

WEAVE TEAM Donna Wilson x SCP

Quirky textile designer Donna Wilson has teamed up with modern furniture store SCP. Their recent collaboration sees whimsical products, such as the ‘Henry’ pouffe, make their mark in SCP’s Central London and Shoreditch showrooms. £208.25; scp.co.uk

OLIVER BONAS

Astrid Chevron Photo Frame, £16; oliverbonas.com

LIGHT MY FIRE P. F C a n d l e C o .

These hand-made soy candles are the hand poured result of Thomas Neuberger and Kristen Pumphrey’s efforts. The husband and wife team release small batches of their scents including Fig & Jasmine, Teakwood & Tobacco, and Sweet Grapefruit (left). Simply heavenly. £18; couvertureandthegarbstore.com

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MONOLOGUE

Hexagon Slit Table in Brass, £339; monologuelondon.com

AUGUST 2015

27/07/2015 15:00


> KITCHEN CONFIDENTIAL

p. 62

REVIEW

p. 65

COMFORT FOOD

p. 66

CLEAN LIVING Our favourite healthy eating stop, Detox Kitchen, is opening a new restaurant in Fitzrovia. The large all-day eatery will serve eat-in salads and small plates, including this cashew and avo salad. Yum. thedetoxkitchen.co.uk

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JANUARY 2016

03/12/2015 09:43


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Worry-Free

FEEDS

From Deliciously Ella to The Detox Kitchen, the hottest health experts share their advice for those with special dietary requirements Wo r d s S t e p h a n i e K i n g

S

ummer is a time when we all suddenly seem to be concerned about health. Call it vanity, call it a step in the right direction, whatever the cause, there’s no denying the extraordinary force compelling us to pack some #cleaneating into our lives. But aside from the ample healthy living fodder Instagram provides, there’s the ever-increasing portion of society who struggle daily with their diet not because of #summerbodygoals, but because of special dietary requirements. Well, Absolutely is here to help. We’ve enlisted the UK’s hottest health and nutrition experts to demystify the confusing world of food allergies,

intolerances and lifestyles imposing certain food intake restrictions. Nutritionist Rob Hobson, one half of The Detox Kitchen, gives valuable nutrition advice, where his business partner and The Detox Kitchen head chef, Lily Simpson provides scrumptious, easy-to-make recipe ideas. The Yes Chef Tess Ward and Honestly Healthy founder Natasha Corrett put forward some equally delicious dishes found within their new cookbooks. To garnish, Ella Woodward of internationally acclaimed food blog Deliciously Ella reveals her top health product available on the market right now, and Madeleine Shaw shares her food philosophy ahead of her Get the Glow book release. So dig in; there’s plenty of no fat, meaty reading to sink your teeth into.

TESS WARD, THE YES CHEF'S KALLØ RICE CAKES WITH TOMATO, FETA & POMEGRANATE

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FOR THOSE WITH ALLERGIES icking off with the most significant dictator of diet, food allergies have been identified by the World Health Organisation as the No. 1 environmental epidemic disease facing children of the developed world. One of the most common is hypersensitivity to tree nuts and peanuts (technically a legume), according to leading allergy resource Allergy UK. Parents can now breathe a sigh of relief, because within Simpson and Hobson’s The Detox Kitchen Bible and Ward’s upcoming release, The Naked Diet, are nut-free salads substituting in seeds, such as sunflower and pumpkin, which Simpson says “add that nutty depth of flavour and a good crunch.” Knowing a few nut-free recipes is especially important nowadays, seeing as 2015’s study conducted by King’s College London’s Professor Gideon Lack, published in February’s New England Journal of Medicine, found that the incidence of food allergy continues to increase, where 1 in 50 school age children in the UK suffer from a peanut allergy – over double the statistics recorded in the last decade. Clearly awareness and knowledge of foods to avoid / completely nut-free products to purchase is key, as allergic reactions can vary in severity – from mild responses of itching and swelling of the lips and mouth, to potentially life-threatening anaphylaxis. Thankfully health food stores such as Holland & Barrett have an extensive range of brands – including our favourites, Biona, Clearspring, Meridian Foods, Naturya, and Propercorn – promising products that are prepared in factories totally devoid of the common potential allergens, nuts, fish / K

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FOOD & DRINK / HEALTHY LIVING shellfish, kiwis, eggs, soya, and celery. But for the 20% of the population experiencing reactions to food that aren’t indicative of an allergy, a statistic estimated by the British Dietetic Association, Corrett suggests this may be due to a food intolerance: “If you feel tired, groggy, lacking in energy, [or have] bad skin, look at what’s on your plate.”

NATASHA CORRETT'S HONESTLY HEALTHY CLEANSE BAKED EGG AVOCADOS

FOR THOSE WITH INTOLERANCES ccording to Allergy UK’s 2007 Food Allergy and Food Intolerance Report, insensitivity to certain foods affects almost half of the population. One of the most well known of these intolerances is that of wheat. To summarise it simply, the body’s immune system negatively responds to a protein within wheat (as well as rye and barley in the case of Coeliac disease, which can be managed with a gluten-free (GF) diet) causing a reaction, be it “bloating, irritable bowel syndrome, diarrhoea,” as Hobson explains. Testing is the only way to get a definitive answer, and YorkTest kits are an easy way to get a comprehensive analysis of your tolerance of different foods and potential allergens. “People with intolerances or allergies often have an impaired gut, so foods that are gut healing, like chicken stock, are A

Awareness of FOODS to avoid and PRODUCTS to purchase is KEY

THE DETOX KITCHEN BIBLE'S BEAN, SPROUT & AVOCADO SALAD

51 JULY 15_Worry_Free_Feeds.indd 51

good to get in,” advises nutritional health coach Shaw. “Eggs, avocados, and sweet potatoes” are her other nutrient-packed recommendations, with Ward adding these grocery items are “really beneficial to your [intake of] good fats and vitamins.” The Yes Chef also suggests opting for cooked vegetables over raw, “as they are easier on the digestion.” Simpson’s Cajun Chicken with Avocado Salad & Mango Salsa, Pumpkin Curry, and Baked Aubergine with Lemon Yoghurt & Pomegranate are brilliant GF recipes found in The Detox Kitchen Bible. Alternatively, BOL Foods’ ready-made meal pots (stocked in Sainsbury's and Tesco) are affordable last-minute food solutions, where its Super

JULY 2015

04/06/2015 14:40


FOOD & DRINK / HEALTHY LIVING

DELICIOUSLY ELLA'S BELOVED DATE NECTAR DATE LOAF

THERE are

so many options

OUT THERE NOW FOR people with ALLERGIES and

intolerances

MADELEINE SHAW'S GET THE GLOW LEMON SOLE

Quinoa Squash, Super Roasted Beetroot, Mexican Sweet Potato Chilli, and Thai Thom Yum are all great GF options. With respect to lactose intolerance, which Hobson says “affects about 5% of the UK population,” individuals who are unable to digest this sugar molecule found within dairy products “should look for alternative sources of calcium, such as dark green vegetables, pulses, plant milks, salmon, and dried fruits.” Corrett and Shaw both suggest using Rude Health’s milks for their recipes, and Corrett’s Coconut Cauliflower Tart, a useful dinner idea, is one of the many dairy-free gems included in her latest title, Honestly Healthy Cleanse. Ward also notes CO YO coconut milk yoghurts as handy breakfast options, which are best sprinkled with Primrose Kitchen’s GF muesli. The Coconut Collaborative’s vegan ice creams make for superb, guilt-free late night treats.

Guilt-Free Goodies BELOVED Date Nectar, £3.99; belovedates.com

THE DETOX KITCHEN BIBLE Lily Simpson & Rob Hobson, £17; amazon.co.uk

PROPERCORN Flavoured Popcorn, £1.59; waitrose.com

CLEARSPRING Instant Miso Soup, £3.99; clearspring.co.uk

FOR THOSE WITH DIETARY REQUIREMENTS hile there are many health benefits to embracing meat-free lifestyles, these diets “require a little more planning,” says Hobson. “Vegetarians and vegans can struggle to get enough omega-3 fatty acids, calcium, iron and vitamin B12.” Unilaterally, however, our veritable food authorities emphasise a well-balanced diet, where Corrett clarifies this means “lots of vegetables, grains, pulses, nuts and seeds… Just remember to eat the rainbow!” Simpson and Shaw also caution those

THE COCONUT COLLABORATIVE Frozen Yoghurt & Ice Cream, From £1.40; coconutco.co.uk

W

PRIMROSE’S KITCHEN Gluten-Free Muesli, £5.95; primroseskitchen.com GET THE GLOW Recipes by Madeleine Shaw, £18; waterstones.com

53 JULY 15_Worry_Free_Feeds.indd 53

on low sugar or low fat diets to be wary of “most processed ‘healthy foods’,” which Simpson says are usually “hiding something. If they’re low fat they’re probably laden with sugar and vice versa.” Although one packaged food range even diabetics can enjoy includes BeLOVeD’s Date Nectar products. Receiving the stamp of approval from young foodie Woodward, “Date nectar is one of the best to add natural sweetness to food. I use it on everything – from porridge, to smoothies, chia puddings, crumbles, muffins, cakes, and icing.” On the savoury side, Shaw’s quick snack ideas of grilled chicken with hummus or “roasting up some veggies with coconut oil and smoked paprika and serving with rocket, avocado and pumpkin seeds” are perfect for individuals aiming to reduce their salt intake or manage their cholesterol. Ward also admits she’s “a sucker” for Kallø Organic Rice and Corn Cakes: “You can layer them with different toppings to enjoy as a low carb snack. One of my favourite [combinations] is chopped tomatoes, feta and pomegranate with chopped coriander and spring onions.” Evidently there’s vast array of wholesome meals that cater to special diets. And with the help of Corrett, Hobson, Simpson, Ward, Shaw and Woodward, you’ll never be without recipes that are as nutritious as they are delicious. Suffering from food sensitivity issues? Corrett sums it up nicely: “There are so many options out there now for people with allergies and intolerances, you just need to find the Free From range and create the healthy alternative.” 

JULY 2015

04/06/2015 14:36


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Let’s

BRUNCH Absolutely’s favourite haunts for that late morning feast

Word s STEPHANIE KING

ST CLEMENTS CAFÉ Pa r s o n s G r e e n

hoever says the crepes in Paris are the best in the world clearly hasn’t tried St Clements’. The Parsons Green cafe’s version, in their fabulously thin, crispy buckwheat form, are some of the best we’ve ever had. Accompanying these delicate morsels of Comté cheese-laced deliciousness are well-seasoned Portobello mushrooms and a rich-but-not-heavy filling of creamy scrambled eggs. Cooked to that ever-elusive state of self-saucing, they are simply dreamy.   For those wanting an equally filling but not fattening breakfast, St Clements’ fritters are the solution, especially with their herby leek, minty pea flavour, crunchy outside and creamy crumbled feta cheese interior. W

Steaming bowls of honey-drizzled porridge occupy several reclaimed wood table tops beside us. Food envy succumbed to, moments later the Goldilocks-approved dish is entertaining our palates with a textural dance between grated Granny Smith apple, dried coconut shavings and oats cooked just right. Any space left for treats is best reserved for the array of freshly baked cakes, slices and viennoiserie on the counter’s chopping boards. A torturous decision for the weekend, we took one for the team. After sampling the moist, oh-so-chocolatey chocolate brownie and pistachio cake (accompanied by creme fraîche and warm rhubarb compote) it was increasingly apparent that there’s no choosing incorrectly here. u  201 New Kings Road, SW6 stclementscafe.co.uk

ST CLEMENTS CAFÉ

ABSOLUTELY MAGAZINES

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Wo rd s PENDLE HARTE

THE COOKBOOK CAFÉ PA R K L A N E

his may be part of the Intercontinental but most brunchers here are not hotel guests – though neither are they locals who have just rolled out of bed. This is somewhere that people travel to for a weekend buffet that is a real feast, one with unlimited Prosecco and Bellinis. It’s a slightly overdressed crowd that hovers around the serving areas, to which it is entirely acceptable to keep returning. We start at the cold market table, where I fill my plate with an eccentric but nevertheless enjoyable mix of salmon and tuna sashimi, watermelon and feta salad, Caesar salad, smoked fish and various cheeses – there is also a selection of salads, cured meats, lots of couscous, tiger prawns and a variety of dips. For those veering more towards the breakfast than the lunch, there is a hot counter where eggs are cooked to order and pancakes and waffles come with myriad toppings and sprinkles – this is where the children congregate, aiming to score bowlfuls of chocolate shavings and mini marshmallows – but this isn’t all, because there are main courses to come. The menu lists three options and despite having it explained to us that we don’t need to choose, we’re still not quite expecting all of them to arrive as sharing plates. There’s a very good salmon, Jerusalem artichoke and salmon plate, a steak, an asparagus and kale one and a dahl, cauliflower and coconut rice dish, all of them high class. Puddings are dinky and arguably look better than they taste, but after all that, who cares? u  1 Hamilton Place, W1; cookbookcafe.co.uk T

82 27/05/2015 15:02


ARTS & CULTURE / FEATURE THE GOOD LIFE EATERY

Word s ELIZABETH HUTTON

THE GOOD LIFE EATERY Chelsea

nspired by the healthy cafes of LA and NYC, the beautiful, the fit and the hungry will happily wait an hour or two to eat brunch here. Why? Because the food is beyond tasty. Be patient and you’ll be rewarded with things like chestnut-almond waffles with fig jam and coconut yogurt, teriyaki baked salmon with avocado on wheat-free toast and raw peanut butter cups. My favourite, the Thai chicken gem lettuce wrap, is a real winner with avocado butter, Asian dipping sauce and tomato salsa bringing some serious flavour to the table. While the cafe itself is small and a little dark, it’s sweet enough and decorated in typical GLE style; with exposed brick walls and a rugged wooden bar. Since opening their first small cafe on Sloane Avenue last year, the Good Life brand has expanded fast with a new site on Marylebone Lane and the option of home delivery for those too fragile to make it out of bed. u  59 Sloane Avenue, SW3; goodlifeeatery.com I

Wo rd s PENDLE HARTE

INN THE PARK

the weekend

BUFFET SPREAD is a FEAST FOR

the hungry

THE COOKBOOK CAFÉ

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S t Ja m e s Pa r k

t is the sunny day idyll – an open air brunch in St James Park, near the lake. Inn The Park was designed in 2002, by Hopkins Architects, the practice behind structures as diverse as the Olympic Velodrome, the Dubai World Trade Centre and the Buckingham Palace Ticket Office, and it’s a stylish, curved building lying low in its park setting. The wood-clad exterior is greyed and weatherI

JUNE 2015

27/05/2015 15:02


ARTS & CULTURE / FEATURE

INN THE PARK

BISTRÓ BY SHOT

beaten, but inside it’s slick, all oiled wood and 1950s tubular furniture, while the roof doubles up in summer as a terrace. We are here on a less than beautiful day, however, so it’s inside for us, where the Peyton and Byrne restaurant is separated from the less formal café down the middle. There are separate breakfast and lunch menus – breakfast fairly extensive, with a long pancake list and a lot of things on toast, while lunch is compact and unassuming. We try a carrot and beetroot salad with goats cheese and hazelnuts, which is fresh and tasty; and a monkfish and shrimp burger. And since it’s a Sunday there’s a selection of roasts – chicken or beef on our visit – and my roast chicken is a huge plate piled high with a vast Yorkshire pudding. It’s all tasty and satisfying – next time we’ll be back for a roof terrace cocktail. u  Inn the Park, SW1; peytonandbyrne.co.uk Word s ELIZABETH HUTTON

HALLY’S

Pa r s o n s G r e e n

ou probably shouldn’t judge a brunch by its queue, but a small group of people waiting to be seated must be the sign of somewhere good. As a Californian-inspired café-cumrestaurant this eatery is all about beachY

chic. With whitewashed brick walls and sanded furniture, it’s a relaxing little getaway. After a brilliantly sweet and smooth matcha latte, I enjoy something salty: crispy friend chorizo, scrambled eggs and avocado on sourdough. Caramelised and delicious, the spicy sausage works well alongside the slightly underdone and gooey eggs. Meanwhile my brunching companion goes for the veggie English breakfast with meatless sausages, eggs, roasted cherry tomatoes, buttery mushrooms and homemade baked beans. Made using cannellini and kidney beans instead of Heinz, these are a great healthy alternative to the sugar-laden tin. Then a massive slice of lemon, olive oil and almond cake. Zingy, sticky and sweet – this is how you brunch properly. This is the jackpot. u  60 New King’s Road, SW6; hallyslondon.com

HALLY’S

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A small queue

of PEOPLE WAITING MUST BE THE SIGN of somewhere good Wo rd s STEPHANIE KING

BISTRÓ BY SHOT Pa r s o n s G r e e n

ichelin-starred head chef Fabrice Meier (Trinity, The Wild Game Company, One-O-One Knightsbridge) heads up the sister branch to Shot Espresso, using East London’s experimental cuisine as inspiration for his French-Italian fusion restaurant. And unsurprisingly, his dishes are exactly as his nickname suggests: Fab. For brunch all of the classics are on the cards: Eggs Royale, Florentine and Benedict – each featuring organic Italian eggs and their signature bright yellow yolks; poached eggs and toast with optional smoked salmon, bacon, and olive oil-drizzled avocado; and a generous portion of yoghurt with granola and homemade raspberry jam. Utterly divine. But perhaps the biggest hero is the French toast. Topping our list of Tastiest French Toasts Ever, the springy white bread (made on premises like the butter and buttermilk) is hugged by just the right amount of maple syrup. Bistró by Shot in short? Michelin star dining without the price tag. Sublime. u  28 Parsons Green Lane, SW6; bistrobyshot.com M

JUNE 2015

27/05/2015 15:03


FOOD & DRINK / REVIEWS

my kitchen Contemporary cuisine ideal for a quick weekend refuel Wo r d s s t e p h a n i e k i n g

way from the bustling, well, politely buzzing Brompton Road (this is Chelsea, after all) lies My Hotel’s My Chelsea. The in-house restaurant, My Kitchen, offers a fusion of modern British fare and Mediterranean and North African cuisine. On today’s menu: crushed avocado on rye toast (with poached eggs added) and eggs Kaletine – My Kitchen’s riff on the classic eggs Florentine – which are enveloped by a decadent, creamy hollandaise sauce and sit perched on of-the-moment wilted kale and an English muffin cushion. Sadly the side order of sweet potato fries, lightly dusted in parmesan cheese and rosemary salt, arrives cold – something even their perfect ratio of crunchy exterior, mushy inside could not fix. Still, My Kitchen’s other patrons seem to be enjoying their My Continental Breakfast Board, which features smoked cheddar, Manchego and cream cheese, bircher muesli, fruit salad and a croissant. On the drinks front, the peaceful café’s Bloody Mary impresses my brunch guest. Yet with no soy milk on offer, I’m left to seek my caffeine fix elsewhere. Thankfully My Kitchen’s bright, Scandi-influenced British décor and maple butter-covered blueberry and ricotta pancakes provide ample distraction. Though adventurous diners may be disappointed by the lack of said Mediterranean and North Africaninfluenced breakfast options, a morning meal at this pretty boutique hotel is lovely nevertheless. ◆

A

TOKIMEITE

Chef Yoshihiro Murata brings his Michelin starred cuisine to Conduit Street Wo r d s S t e p h a n i e K i n g

T

here is no shortage of Japanese restaurants in London. Nor is there a limited range of fine dining options in Mayfair. But thanks to Tokimeite’s highly anticipated arrival to Conduit Street, you won’t want to go anywhere else. Aside from a decadent brown and gold-toned interior designed by the esteemed Yasumichi Morita, and wonderfully attentive waiting staff who demonstrate what it really means to give good service, that’s not why you’re here. You’re here because you want to see Yoshihiro Murata showcase his seven Michelin star-winning skills. Boy, does he deliver. Murata’s menu highlights his mastery in kaiseki, the highest level of Japanese cuisine, via flakey, near creamy rare confit marinated salmon and Tokimeite sumiyake Wagyu steak: thinly sliced, melt-in-yourmouth authentic Japanese Wagyu beef

from Zen-Noh-approved suppliers. The velvety Wagyu rei ribeye shabu shabu and its tangy ponzu jelly illustrates Murata’s umami expertise – especially when consumed in tandem with a Takara Fizz, Tokimeite’s take on the peach bellini – where the tempura moriawase’s delicately battered, terrifically crisp prawns and vegetables should not be underestimated. Theatre arrives in the form of sashimi nanashu, a glorious red lacquer box spouting ethereal tufts of smoke and protecting the seven kinds of sashimi within. As you finish the meal with moist, brownie-like chestnut cake or oozey apple tartin with a salted caramel smear you finally appreciate Tokimeite’s meaning, which describes the feeling of anticipatory ‘butterflies.’ Why? Because this is precisely how you feel about your next visit. ◆

● ● tokimeitĒ

23 Conduit Street, W1S; tokimeite.com

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● ● my kitchen

My Chelsea, 35 Ixworth Place, SW3; myhotels.com/chelsea

NOVEMBER 2015

27/10/2015 16:49


XXXXXX / XXXXXXX

MUNCH BUNCH Absolutely finds out if South West London’s breakfasts and brunches live up to the hype

BEN’S CANTEEN  B AT T E R S E A

Your local fail-safe with good vibes and even better food Hang out; indulge: have fun” reads the Ben’s Canteen chalkboard. Not a difficult task when you have as fantastic an atmosphere as this Battersea rest-stop. Warm, relaxed, totally cool: the unassuming corner café’s wonderfully chilled atmosphere is precisely the thing you crave on a Saturday morning. Ben’s Canteen is a safe haven for nursing fragile bodies (be they weary from the week or last night’s festivities), and its reputation certainly precedes it. With a winged pink neon heart mirror and breezy interior, the unpretentious industrial design provides the perfect backdrop to tuck into equally unfussy fare. Sunny staff promptly take your drinks order and swiftly return with silky-smooth coffees (in your choice of ‘civilised’ cup size or heavy duty mug) and mason jars of Bloody Marys for those in need of hair-of-the-dog remedies. As the outside queue starts to extend and toile de Jouy plates of Smashed Avo

arrive at the table, it’s increasingly apparent that the legend of Ben’s Canteen is true. A sourdough chariot covered in nutty, mushed avocado bears a softpoached egg and roasted vine tomatoes, where their tangy-sweet taste is rounded out by the rich, gooey egg yolk. Perhaps, though, the main star of this morning meal is the Banana Pancakes. Made on a griddle and served in generous, three tier stacks, people apparently leave if they can’t get them. Understandable, considering their fluffy state and almostmolten bananas. The pancakes’ oozey salted caramel sauce and ramekin of thick maple syrup confirm this menu option’s ‘cheat day’ status. With a view for thirds

 140 St John's Hill, SW11; benscanteen.com

MILK BALHAM

Your destination for breakfast classics with an original twist ack with a bang after a brief closure and refurbishment, Julian Porter and Lauren Johns’ all-day café Milk is the place to be on a Sunday. As my friends and I hovered expectantly by the door, the queue grew from a trickle into a tsunami with punters protruding out into the street. There may be a brief waiting time but the food is worth it. Seated outside in some of the last rays of autumn sunshine, we perused the menu after ordering tea. This arrived in adorable B

of THIS MORNING meal is the BANANA

ABSOLUTELY MAGAZINES

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by way of the updated Sweet Corn Fritters (finished with smashed avocado, fetta and chilli jam), Ben’s Canteen is a fail-safe pick-me-up whenever you stop by. u Stephanie King

The main star

PANCAKES

MILK

BEN’S CANTEEN

58 08/10/2015 17:20


FOOD & DRINK / ROUND-UP

BREW

Graffiti scrawled on the LARGE PIZZA oven

FORETELL BREAKFASTS

future

individual teapots that had us brandishing our smartphones. From the (extensive) menu, we chose The Convict, comprised of English muffin, bacon, sausage, egg, hash and a wonderful creation named ‘Hangover Sauce’. Hale and hearty, this was the epitome of one breakfast cures all; the hash was a particularly nice touch. The Sweet Maria, a vegetarian option, offered sweeetcorn fritters, grilled haloumi, avocado, kasundi and lime. A more refreshing option, the fritters and cheese were the perfect base note and ensured that this leaner option was just as satisfying as the aforementioned Convict. I opted for one of the specials and was served up with undoubtedly the most delicious hot dog

There may be

a BRIEF WAITING TIME but the FOOD IS WORTH IT

I’ve ever consumed. It’s official description is the Kaesekuainer Hot Dog and it is filled with melted cheese. Enough said. A wholly brilliant brunch. u Catherine Hales

 18-20 Bedford Hill, Balham, SW12; milk.london

BREW WIMBLEDON

Your juice and pancake go-to very café has its strengths. I travelled to Brew in Wimbledon to discover theirs and came away with a comprehensive list. Reclaimed wooden walls and glossy white tiling give an airy feel, while graffiti scrawled on the large pizza oven foretell breakfasts future. The overall impression is one of space – or it would have been if the place wasn’t packed to the rafters. After being seated, the charming staff made me feel welcome and attended to, despite their hectic whizzing from table E

59 USE_B&C_Nov15_Cafe_Roundup.indd 59

to table in order to cope with the hungry horde. After browsing the menu I chose the Turkish eggs. Well-seasoned and all the better for the addition of parsley and toasted Turkish fingers – think classic eggs and soldiers with an Eastern twist. My only criticism was that the hung yoghurt somewhat cooled my egg, meaning it was a little more tepid than toasty. One of Brew’s aforementioned strengths? Their juice game is on point; the Autumn Blues Juice combines blueberries, ginger and apple to create a counterintuitively warming yet refreshing drink. The strength that lifted the whole meal, however, was the pancakes. After a recommendation from my brunch-neighbours (‘The pancakes are exceptional!’ they exclaimed) I awaited their arrival. What quickly manifested were the fluffiest, lightest pancakes I have ever had, with that barely-attainable crispy edge that pushes pancakes from good to transcendent. Crème fraîche, blueberries and syrup almost finished them (and me) off, until I realised that there were baked bananas hidden in the middle. Brunch accomplished. u Stephanie King

 21 High Street Wimbledon, SW19; brew-cafe.com

NOVEMBER 2015

08/10/2015 17:19


FOOD & DRINK / RESTAURANT REVIEW

The ARTICHOKE Dip was COMPLEX, thanks to the SMASHED ARTICHOKE hearts veiled by MELTED CHEESE

WELL SOURCED Looking for fresh, sustainable fare? Head straight to (the) Source. Wo r d s S t e p h a n i e K i n g

A

mid-week meal is usually nothing special. Luckily this was not the fate of my experience at Source, one of Battersea’s most sustainable restaurants. With a strict Local Suppliers Only policy, the Ransome’s Dock eatery was as elegant as it was environmentally friendly. (Who said ethical dining was unrefined?) This serene little spot paid homage to its roots as a once operational port, with Source’s open plan and exposed brick interior accented by warm mood lighting and dark steel furnishings. While looking out on the canal my dinner date and I concurred this cosy alcove was indeed, a painfully romantic place to be. Just as Dean Martin crooned “That’s Amore”, a croquette amuse bouche

arrived at our candlelit table. Their crunchy exterior, unctuous ox cheek filling and silky harissa aioli dip rendered our bouches very amoused. To start we opted for the Crab Toast and Artichoke Dip. Simple in name, yes, but simple in flavour? Heavens no. Despite its few ingredients, head chef Matthew Tarantini’s Artichoke Dip was complex in profile, thanks to a warm pot of smashed artichoke hearts veiled by melted cheese and grilled Turkish bread squares for dipping. My date’s Crab Toast consisted of an angelically light arrangement of thinly spread crab meat, burnt spring onion and chilli over toasted sourdough. Never one to deny good wine a home in my glass, I suggested we try a bottle of the Von Winning Riesling. Not only did it pair beautifully with our starters, its soft

51 B&C_Apr15_Food_Review.indd 51

citrus notes and rounded flavour held their own when paired with our mains. The second act of our meal comprised Lamb Chop with Aubergine Caponata, Ratte Potatoes & Ricotta and Spaghetti with Cuttlefish, Leeks & Tarragon. The spaghetti, handmade in-house by Source’s resident Italian pasta chef, was quite sweet at first bite. But, after a few mouthfuls of the al dente pasta the dish’s luxurious sauce proved addictive. While my lamb was cooked nicely it was no match for my date’s dinner. As our sitting reached its crescendo, we thought it wise to try Source’s Chocolate Tart & Bay Leaf Ice Cream and Earl Grey Tea Crème Brulée & Poached Rhubarb. Though seemingly innocuous, the small block of a chocolate tart was the stuff of seasoned dessert samplers, with the ice cream’s tangy star anise cutting through its potent flavour. The crème brûlée on the other hand, was unexpectedly refreshing. Its gentle Earl Grey infusion and poached rhubarb cubes were lovely updates on the original crème brûlée. Overall, Source may not be the place for slick, minimalist fare. But if you’re after an unfussy, supremely delicious meal of the best British seasonal produce, we suggest you head straight to (the) Source. 

● S OURCE BAT TERSE A

Ransomes Dock Restaurant, 35-37 Parkgate Road, SW11; sourcebattersea.com

APRIL 2015

06/03/2015 12:36


> SWISS PERFECTION: HEAD TO MONTREUX FOR THE PINNACLE OF LUXURY

p. 60

PICTURE PERFECT This month, Stephanie King travels to Montreux in Switzerland, and discovers a haven of natural beauty, rich cultural heritage and food, glorious food.

59 C&A_Dec15_Travel_Opener.indd 59

DECEMBER 2015

17/11/2015 17:10


Swiss Perfection For an all-boxes-ticked luxury getaway, head to Switzerland’s Montreux, where even the fussiest of globetrotters won’t find fault Wo r d s S t e p h a n i e K i n g

ABSOLUTELY MAGAZINES

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60 17/11/2015 17:13


TRAVEL / WANDERLUST THE FAIRMONT

Le Montreux Palace IS THE JEWEL IN

Montreux’s crown

Hotels of the World group has been a focal point for locals. Though Fairmont Le Montreux Palace’s Belle-Époque architecture also woos virgin visitors, its traditional beauty instantly gives guests a sense of its rich history, with the meeting rooms, upper lobby area, salon (where a lavish brunch is held every Sunday) and the opulent baroque ballroom all preserved in their original, turn-of-thecentury condition. The accommodation, however, is a different story: all recently renovated, the mountain and lake facing rooms and suites are contemporary iterations of their classic predecessors. By all definitions they are grand, spacious, and decorated in a neutral colourway. This feeling of serene also extends to the hotel’s Willow Stream Wellness Spa. The health centre boasts a roster of spa and beauty treatments for maximum rejuvenation, plus a state-of-the-art gym, indoor and outdoor pools, hammam and sauna. When you’re ready to up the tempo, Montreux’s deep musical roots provide ample inspiration, starting with the

M

ontreux is nirvana for the greedy. The resort town on the edge of Lake Geneva, Switzerland offers every possible thing you could wish for in a holiday destination. With the elegance of the French Riviera, the perma-pleasant climate of the Mediterranean, the magnificent food and wine of Italy’s central regions, and of course, the spellbinding views of Switzerland’s iconic Swiss Alps, it’s as if someone collected all of the ingredients required for The Perfect Holiday. Then you realise it’s only an hour by train from Geneva airport. Welcome

to The Land of Have Your Cake and Eat it Too. This unexpectedly idyllic town feels regal. But perhaps that’s because of the music royalty that has played at its annual Jazz Festival. (Deep Purple’s iconic song, ‘Smoke on the Water’ was even inspired by the home to 24,500 people, when its casino burned down during the band’s 1971 concert.) Either way, the Fairmont Le Montreux Palace is the jewel in Montreux’s crown. Since 1906 the five star member of the Leading

61 C&A_Dec15_Switzerland_v2.indd 61

aforementioned Jazz Festival created by Claude Nobs in 1967. The world-renowned July music event welcomes greats from across the globe to its waterfront, where year ’round relics from previous hosts – including legends Quincy Jones, Miles Davis, B. B. King, David Bowie, Leonard Cohen, Santana and Grace Jones – are

DECEMBER 2015

17/11/2015 17:13


TRAVEL / WANDERLUST LORD BYRON’S CHANCE MOORING DURING stormy weather REALLY PUT

Montreux on the map

scattered throughout the town. Though the best collection is located in Fairmont Le Montreux Palace’s fine dining restaurant, Montreux Jazz Café. This highly sophisticated eatery is heavily seasoned with eclectic décor from Claude Nobs’ own home, including photographs of the Festival’s past acts, brightly coloured, mismatching crockery and glassware, a 1950s jukebox, and a kimono given to Nobs by Freddie Mercury. Next door Funky Claude’s bar serves as an über cool watering hole, and is notorious for spontaneous jam sessions that go well into the wee hours of the morning, not just during the Festival. Aside from Montreux’s huge summer music fête, there’s plenty of other activities on offer: in the month’s leadup to Christmas, Montreux’s Marché de Noël dazzles market go-ers with its magical stalls, live music shows and festive atmosphere. Santa drops by his house atop the majestic Rochers-de-Naye, spreading good tidings against one of the most picturesque backdrops in western Switzerland. Reindeer or no reindeer, the vista of Lake Geneva and the Alps is

pretty spectacular whatever the season. An equally sensational sight is Chillon Castle, made even better when viewed from a seat aboard Lake Geneva Cruise Line. This medieval landmark played a pivotal role in Europe’s past, as it was built to control military movement between the north and south. However it was Lord Byron’s chance mooring during stormy weather that really put Montreux on the map; his famed poem, The Prisoner of Chillon, was influenced by his time at the heritage-listed site, and you can see where he carved his name onto a pillar in the castle’s dungeon. After taking the ferry to Lutry, Café de la Poste’s speciality, Filets de Perche Meunière, must be sampled. Pourquoi? Because these buttered perch fillets are wonderful examples of quintessentially Swiss

63 C&A_Dec15_Switzerland_v2.indd 63

cuisine. So, stomachs lined and refueling finished, an obligatory wine-tasting at Le Lavaux Vineyards is a fabulous way to wile away an afternoon. Further titillate your inner sommelier at nearby Vevey’s Place du Marché. Every Saturday there’s a ‘wine collective’ of sorts where you buy one glass and then get free refills. For those who champion the local wine producers a little too heartily, getting home is easy thanks to Montreux’s highly efficient transport systems – a service you can use for free as a Fairmont Le Montreux Palace guest. One of the best things about Montreux is that you feel foreign. Too often, travelling to cosmopolitan cities doesn’t feel like you’ve explored anywhere new. But in Montreux you can rediscover the meaning of ‘tourist.’ Even if you’re flying solo it’s an unintimidating yet eyeopening adventure. You’ll be returning for something far better than a block of Toblerone. And Montreux proves you can have it all. u ¢ Starting rate is £349 per night including breakfast. 2 Avenue Claude Nobs, Montreux, Switzerland, CH-1820, +41 21 962 1212; fairmont.com/montreux

DECEMBER 2015

17/11/2015 17:14


TRAVEL / UK GETAWAY

THE SITE

L

uxury’ and ‘self-catering’ aren’t terms frequently used in the same sentence. But Natural Retreats Trewhiddle seamlessly marries the two at its idyllic St Austell site set over 120 acres of peaceful countryside. Choosing between two-bedroom stoneclad cottages or three- and four-bedroom villas, the five star ‘home from home’ experience is enhanced by the modern properties’ kitchens, all fully equipped to make meals that feed the whole family (or have on-demand catering company Angels in the Kitchen do it for you); large, open plan interiors; grand bathrooms; and expansive villa decks. You’ll think it doesn’t get any better, that is, until you discover it’s dog-friendly, too. ◆

NATURAL RETREATS TREWHIDDLE CO R N WA L L

Wo r d s S T E P H A N I E K I N G

THE SURROUNDS

THE ITINERARY

rewhiddle is only a few miles from postcard-ready fishing village Mevagissey and Georgian port Charlestown. If not for their pivotal role in Cornish history, the unique charm of these quaint coastal spots is worth a look. Another must-see is Polkerris, namely because of local’s secret Sam’s On The Beach. Perched directly on the sand, this literal beachfront eatery is only 20 minutes from Natural Retreats by car, offering a prime view of the ocean from its wonderfully light, airy setting. As you dine on exquisite seafood and the area’s best wood-fired pizzas you’ll quickly relive the halcyon days of school holidays spent by the seaside. ◆

hatever your motivation for a Natural Retreats escape, there is genuinely something for everyone to enjoy. The nearby Lost Gardens of Haligan and Eden Project make for fabulous afternoon exploring, as do the lanes of pictureperfect Port Isaac, which are worth discovering alongside its tiny houses and whimsical old shops that span down the cliff face. Amp up your trip’s tempo with surf lessons, bodyboarding, coasteering, and kayaking along Fowey River Estuary, or try your hand at archery and horse riding if sea-centric activities don’t float your metaphorical boat. Then, unwind with a little pampering from My Personal Sanctuary, Natural Retreats’ to-yourdoor beauty service. Because, really, what is a weekend escape without a little indulgence? ◆

T

W

THE DAMAGE Prices start from £90/night for a two-bedroom cottage; £120/night for a three-bedroom villa; £140/night for a fourbedroom villa. Enjoy seven nights’ stay in a two-bedroom cottage for £1,298. Booking early recommended. Trewhiddle Park, Pentewan Road, St Austell, Cornwall, PL26 7AD, 084 4384 3166; naturalretreats.com

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OCTOBER 2015

29/09/2015 15:10

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