Page 1

independence inspiration information spring/summer 2011 launch issue slantmagazine.co.uk


nicole W W W. N I C O L E . C O M


MODE London - Paris - New York


l a u n c h

t h o s e

i s s u e . . .

w h o

m a d e

i t

p o s s i b l e

Stephen hislop art director - editor - stephenhislop.co.uk pheobe yew b l o g g e r - i t s l i g h t n i n g h e a r t s . t u m b l r. c o m fashioncherrie.blogspot.com tigre escobar p h o t o g r a p h e r - t i g r e - e s c o b a r. c o m - u n f a i t h f u l 2 m e . t u m b l r. c o m phillip james director of hervia - hervia lauren irwin model katie minshall model - designer - katieminshall.co.uk rosie davis designer

o n l i n e

-

s u b s c r i p t i o n s

website slantmagazine.co.uk

rebecca hunt designer nadine mukhtar designer

email info@slantmagazine.co.uk subscriptions subscribe@slantmagazine.co.uk

kim knight designer oxford botanic gardens oxford - uk hervia hervia.com - 47 spring gardens - king street - manchester sam john smith designer - samjohnsmith.co.uk alick cotterill photographer - alickcotterill.co.uk

p r i n t i n g

-

1st bite digital printing 1stbyte.co.uk

w w w . s l a n t m a g a z i n e . c o . u k


émilie LONDON – NEW YORK


08 editors ter

let-

what’s

17 the art of blogging

out

on

19 tigre bar

esco-

43 lashing

11

10 fabric tal

capi-

26 inside the industry

14 little black dress

16 veils west

&

the

34 up and comming

50 making waves

c o n t e n t s launch issue


“

fa s h i o n fa d e s o n ly s t y l e remains the same

C O C O C HANEL


ed i t o r s letter

B

irth is a magical experience whether it be a beautiful human being or a cutting edge fashion magazine. The birth of Slant magazine is most certainly a special occasion for those both in the world of fashion and those who seek to be inspired and informed by the world that surrounds them. Straying away from the norm, Slant brings you a mix of both the inspirational and the informative, from fashion to photography. This magazine is a true vanguard of its time, bringing its readers an honest and raw approach to an industry that is plagued with smoke screens and falsities.

t h e b i r t h o f a m a g a z i n e

The Launch Issue features a wide scope of subjects, addressing issues within fashion and religion to previewing up and coming designers of the future. Taking inspiration from creatives across the globe to bring you a truly fresh take on the fashion genre. This is not your stereotypical magazine, it has been nurtured out of a passion for change, a need for things to be done differently and most importantly it's been created to once again provide an inspirational platform for its readers.

8


“

elegance is a question of personality

J e a n - Pa u l G a u lt i e r


what’s on e x h i b i t i o n s , s h o w s & e v e r y t h i n g i n b e t w e e n

w s a f a s h i o n s h o w - t r u m a n b r e w e r y 0 1

y o h j i y a m a m o t o - v & a 1 2 1 0

m a r c h j u l y

j u n e

This years students from Winchester School of Art will be holding two shows for their final collections. One in mid May at the Great Hall in Winchester where the best of the crop will be selected to show in London. The designer's collections are looking strong with bold prints and some very conceptual pieces to match.

-

This exhibition explores the work of idiosyncratic and groundbreaking designer Yohji Yamamoto. 'Fabric', he said, 'is everything'. This deep interest in textiles is at the heart of his approach to design. Yamamoto became internationally renowned in the early eighties for challenging traditional notions of fashion by designing garments that seemed oversized, unfinished, playing with ideas of gender or fabrics not normally used in fashionable attire such as felt or neoprene. Other works revealed Yamamoto's unusual pattern cutting, knowledge of fashion history and sense of humour. His work is characterised by a frequent and skilful use of black, a colour which he describes as 'modest and arrogant at the same time'.

w i m c r o u w e l a g r a p h i c o d y s s e y - d e s i g n m u s e u m 3 0 0 3

m a r c h j u l y

-

The Design Museum celebrates the prolific career of the Dutch graphic designer Wim Crouwel in this, his first UK retrospective. Regarded as one of the leading designers of the twentieth century, Crouwel embraced a new modernity to produce typographic designs that captured the essence of the emerging computer and space age of the early 1960s. Spanning over 60 years, this exhibition will cover Crouwel’s rigorous design approach and key moments in his career including his work for design practice ‘Total Design’, the identity for the Stedelijk Museum, Amsterdam, as well as his iconic poster, print, typography and lesser known exhibition design. The exhibition will also explore Crouwel’s innovative use of gridbased layouts and typographic systems to produce consistently striking asymmetric visuals.

b u r k e + n o r f o l k : p h o t o g r a p h s f r o m T h e w a r i n a f g h a n i s t a n - t a t e m o d e r n 0 6 m a y j u l y

-

1 0

In October 2010, Simon Norfolk began a series of new photographs in Afghanistan, which took its cue from the work of nineteenthcentury British photographer John Burke. Norfolk’s photographs reimagine or respond to Burke’s Afghan war scenes in the context of the contemporary conflict. Conceived as a collaborative project with Burke across time, this new body of work is presented alongside Burke’s original portfolios.

10


image: stephen hislop

fabric capital no more?

A

sense of uncertainty for the future of London’s Goldhawk Road as a Mecca for fashion students and designers seeking high-quality cheap fabric has been thrown into doubt by local council plans to redevelop the surrounding Shepherd’s Bush Market.

c o u n c i l p l a n s t h r e a t e n f a b r i c h o t s p o t

It is understood that about six fabric shops, based between 30 and 50 Goldhawk Road, West London, have appointed Webster Dixon Solicitors to act on their behalf in talks with developer Orion Shepherd’s Bush (OSB). OSB is a joint venture between Orion and developer Development Securities and it is working with Hammersmith & Fulham Council on the regeneration plan. An OSB project spokeswoman said the council believed the market, which has about 150 traders, including some fabric stalls, would be forced to shut down within five years if it was not redeveloped. Closure of the Goldhawk Road shops, which are situated near to the market, would be a blow to fashion students and clothing makers, who depend on the area to find quality fabric at cheaper prices. It is understood to be significantly cheaper than central London fabric centres such as Berwick Street. Under the regeneration plans, Shepherd’s Bush Market would be extended with improved space for existing traders, who will benefit from a three-year rent freeze, and the Goldhawk Road shops would be demolished and rebuilt. There would also be space for new stalls

and retail units and new ‘themed’ areas would be created within the market, including an Artisans’ Quarter, which would be open to local artists and designers, and areas for fashion and fabric, fresh produce and cafés. It is unclear how many fabric shops would form part of the new development. The spokeswoman added that the developer, which is consulting with interested stakeholders with a view to making a planning application in the early summer, is talking to shop owners about moving back to the same premises after the redevelopment and placing them in temporary locations while the work is done. It is not clear whether the shop owners would be forced to sell as part of the redevelopment. However, it is feared that the council may issue Compulsory Purchase Orders if owners are reluctant to sell.

“ . . . t h e G o l d h a w k R o a d s h o p s w o u l d b e d e m o l i s h e d ”


1 9 t h

m a y

w i n c h e s t e r

2 0 1 1

f a s h i o n

s h o w

fashion show 1 13.00 fashion show 2 16.00 the winchester great hall castle avenue s023 8pj

1 s t f r e e

j u n e

r a n g e

2 0 1 1

f a s h i o n

s h o w

pre show portfolio view 17.30 fashion show 18.00 after show drinks & portfolio view 19.00-20.00 the old truman brewery f block g1 81 brick lane london e1 6ql limited parking only - tube: aldgate east

5 t h - 8 t h

j u n e

2 0 1 1

graduate fashion week stand number D102 earls court 2 london limited parking only - tube: west brompton


THE B EST C OLOUR IN THE W ORLD IS THE ONE THAT LOO K S GOOD ON YOU .

C O C O C HANEL


image: stephen hislop

the little black dress

O

ver the seventy years since Chanel “invented” it, the little black dress has continuously found a place for itself among the prevailing fashion. Even during intervals when trousers were considered the rage, a little black dress could always be found mixed in with the khakis. Other seasons feature nothing but prints…and a little black dress created by a designer who senses that women may crave something simpler.

t h e s t o r y b e h i n d a n i c o n

Just as the definition of style has shifted through the years, so has the designer’s response to it. The little black dress has proven to be a common denominator in this century’s Rolodex of style. Women have found an item that works in it’s most stripped-down form- all they have to do is add their individual signature. Black dresses, and black clothing in general, were thought to be the province of widows, women who had been married, who had sexual encounters who had lost their innocence. It was partially these things that made the colour so appealing to young girls. It was prohibited, it was wicked, and therefore it was sexy. In many ways, these connotations linger, giving the woman who wears a little black dress a sense of “grown-up-ness” and allure. The silhouette of the little black dress has naturally changed with the times. The range of fabrics, styles and shapes is staggering – not surprisingly for an item that has been around as long as this one has. The little black dress has successfully adapted to the glamour of

“ w i c k e d , p r o h i b i t e d a n d d a m n r i g h t s e x y ”

the thirties, the conservatism of the fifties, the discocrazed seventies, the glitz of the eighties, and schizophrenic styles of the nineties. From Chanel’s original, to later incarnations donned by celebrities, socialites and chic suburban housewives, the little black dress is forever changing. Some are long, lean and glamorous; some are short, sexy, and chic – what they share is the same timeless quality that Coco Chanel imbued in her design over seventy years ago.

14


THERE ARE PEOPLE W HO HAV E MONEY AND PEOPLE W HO ARE RI C H .

C O C O C HANEL


t h e a d o p t i o n o f w e s t e r n t r e n d s

Only time will tell how much the Western World will truly impact on such a traditional dress code and whether the negative connotations of wearing such a garment will ever be dropped by the non veil wearing social groups. Who knows where the next fashion influence will come for the 'veil wearing community.'

The 'veil' has nearly always been perceived to be well outside the realms of what Westerners consider to be fashion, but more recently these idiosyncratic lines are beginning to merge. We are now seeing the lines between tradition and modernity, modesty and fashion becoming less distinct. It’s safe to say the Western World is beginning to have a huge impact upon a very traditional form of religious symbol, an identity for so many, the 'veil.' This influence is not a recent event, by any means. Since the nineteenth century the Islamic world has been importing fashions from the likes of Paris and Milan. Veiled women have increasingly altered conventional garments to include elements of western styling, from adapting garments to have a more defined waist line to totally remodelling them, taking on the forms of what we would usually associate with a corset. A lot of the time many of these influences were kept behind closed doors in the segregated households, but as fashions develop and become more accessible it is not surprising to see these subtle alterations being fashioned on the streets today.

For Islamic cultures the 'veil' is very much a learnt practice that will develop throughout the woman’s life beginning with child hood, right through marriage and into old age. This learnt practice plays a key social role within society much like that of the high heels worn within the western world. The western woman must also learn the skill of walking in such a way to gain the social status that they demand within society. Two very different learnt practices from two different cultures, but which are crucial to both separate groups of women.

atch a bus from Oxford Circus to Marble Arch on any given day and you will observe an enormous diversity of people and cultures. One visibly significant culture is that of the “veiled” women and girls who are present both on the pavement and working within the high street stores. For such a traditional eastern culture there has been a notable progression into the Western World and the culture that surrounds it. Young girls in skin-tight jeans and patterned headscarves hang around Topshop for the latest bargain. Hip twenty something’s in black boot cut trousers and skimpy t-shirts with a ghetto fabulous head wrap cascading down their back, shop around the latest arrivals at Mango. This young generation of Muslims, Hindus and Sikhs do not conform to popular belief how Islamic dress should be worn.

C

the veil & the western world

“ . . . t h e I s l a m i c w o r l d h a s b e e n i m p o r t i n g f a s h i o n s f r o m t h e l i k e s o f P a r i s a n d M i l a n ”

image: stephen hislop

16


the art of blogging This edition features blogger Phoebe Yew, with her blog It's Lightning Hearts. The blog covers a wide range of inspirational images from the world of fashion and the culture that surrounds it. Defiantly one to take a look at it if you in need of some serious inspiration or just want to immerse yourself in a world of thought provoking fashion . We took the privilege to interview the young blogger to find out just what makes her so successful.

image: phoebe yew

SLANT: What made you start blogging? PHOEBE YEW: My friend, Deborah, made me start blogging. She first joined Tumblr and she thinks it will be something really interesting for both of us to do. Initially, my blog was meant to be a photography blog. I’m a school photographer and I also do photo shoots for people. I started posting pictures of amazing photographs in my blog since April 2010. Later on around June, I started following fashion blogs and I am inspired by these blogs. I’m drawn away by these pictures and I started posting more on fashion. I never thought that I would be interested so much in fashion until I join Tumblr and found out what my real passion is. SL: How did you come up with such a cool blog name. Does it mean anything? PY: The name of my blog, It’s Lightning Hearts came from a photo taken by me that I really like a lot. This photo is a heart shape drawn using a torchlight. It is called light painting.

“ . . . 3 8 , 4 1 2 f o l l o w e r s ”

SL: What is your blog about? PY: My blog is fully dedicated to my love for fashion and style. I post outfits, shoes, jewellery, models, runways, fashion week and designer brands. My blog is also about helping people. I get lots of questions everyday about outfits and I give them ideas. I never regretted having a blog. This blog affected me a lot. I know the apparels better, I learned makeup, I learned how to mix and match, I learned how to bejewel my phone and many other things. SL: Do you see it as an inspirational place where people can visit or more of a personal response to the world? PY: My blog would definitely be an inspiration. I love it when people come to my blog in the mornings when they are figuring out what to wear for the day. Lots of people drop down messages in my blog telling me that they are inspired my style, they need to go for shopping right away & my blog influenced them to dress better. I’m very happy that I influenced and inspired people’s style and fashion, it is pleasant to dress good!

SL: How many followers do you currently have. Have you received any weird questions? PY: Currently I’m having 38,412 followers, I earn around 100-200 followers a day. I don’t really have much weird questions, everybody that browses my blog is so nice and friendly, I never get nasty questions. I’m very happy that I don’t get haters! SL: Who’s your Hero? PY: I have lots of heroes. My mum is one of my heroes and she’s one of the most important people in my life and she represents my heart. She is also my best friend. I look up to her and respect her very much. Her sense of fashion is the best. If you go shopping with her, everything in your shopping bag is classy, high quality, glamorous and fabulous. She was never seen buying cheap stuff and she is amazing in shopping. Yeah, she’s a shopaholic. Mary-Kate Olsen and Ashley Olsen are one of my biggest inspirations. They are amazing fashionistas with a classy style. I love all their clothes. I would love to meet them one day and have lunch with them. My dream is to explore their closets. Marc Jacobs, Roberto Cavalli, Gabrielle Coco Chanel, Jeffery Campbell and more designers are also my heroes! SL: Where do you want your blog in 2 years time? PY: My goal is to get 100,000 followers, go for fashion weeks, having meet ups with other fashion bloggers, and things that bloggers do. I hope that it will be a big inspiration and influence for style. I am a photo blogger with full respect for fashion.


e n j o y a n y t i m e , a n y w h e r e . v i e w n o w a t s l a n t m a g a z i n e . c o . u k

W W W . SLANTMAGA Z INE . C O . U K

w w w . s l a n t m a g a z i n e . c o . u k


image: tigre escobar

“ i s i m p l y f e l l i n l o v e w i t h t h e i d e a o f p a i n t i n g w i t h m y p h o t o g r a p h s ”

tigre escobar

a

s part of the insider issue, Slant had the honour of talking to Tigre Escobar, photographer, artist and all round inspiration. His work covers fashion editorial, advertising and personal image making, truly inspiring images from a truly creative photographer.

SLANT: What started your interest in your profession? Did you always want to be a Photographer? TIGRE ESCOBAR: I always wanted to be a painter.

i n s i d e t h e m i n d o f a f a s h i o n p h o t o g r a p h e r

Never quite got the feeling of being a photographer. I don’t have one of those stories of every photographer that started their life by ¨getting their hands in their first camera when they were 5¨. That makes me sick. I became a photographer when I was 22, I had to beg my Mom to lend me her camera because she thought I didn’t had a chance, and a professor in school gave me the best recipe to leave painting… She said ¨Photography is instant satisfaction¨ So I became a photographer when I was already an older boy, and what kept me there, was the discovery, to me, of colour photography… I thought that to be a photographer you could only shoot black and white. I simply fell in love with the idea of painting with my photographs.

SL: You shoot a lot of fashion photography; do you work on other subject matter as well? TE: Yes Yes. Fashion is only part of the show. I have shot for other types of publications like AD Architectural Digest and Conde Nast Travller. Also, my work has a complete different side directed to art galleries. Make sure you check it out, dripbook. com/escobar

SL: How do you feel about the way women are portrayed in fashion magazines? Do you agree with the high gloss so often associated with the genre or would you rather see a more honest representation of women? TE: Ummm. How can I get to this in the shortest possible way. There are women that clothes just look good on them, that’s it. I think the idea of making fashion responsible of how women are portrait now a days, is just a bit archaic... »


image: tigre escobar

" i h a d t o b e g m y m o m t o l e n d m e h e r c a m e r a b e c a u s e s h e t h o u g h t i d i d n ' t h a v e a c h a n c e " 20


image: tigre escobar

" i t h i n k t h e i d e a o f m a k i n g f a s h i o n r e s p o n s i b l e o f h o w w o m e n a r e p o r t r a y e d n o w a d a y s , i s j u s t a b i t a r c h a i c . . . "


22


image: tigre escobar

" i n m y w o r k , i t r i e d t o k e e p m y i m a g e s a s h o n e s t a s p o s s i b l e "


image: tigre escobar

SL: What do you think about the use of Photoshop? TE: Photoshop is an amazing tool. I just try to use it as little as possible. In my work, I tried to keep my images as honest as possible. There are photographers who use Photoshop to make their images perfect, but there are some photographers who are just good at Photoshop, and they just have lost the passion, or the need, to take a good photograph since the first click.

SL: Some of your photographs remind me of Rankin’s work, what do you think about his work? Is he an inspiration to you? TE: No he hasn’t been an inspiration to me, but I am so glad you think my work have some reminiscence of his images. I think he is so provocative in his photography, and so powerful in his images, that I just feel flattered that you see anything of his energy in my work. Gracias.

SL: Where do you get your inspiration from? TE: I read once in a book by the Painter, Mark Rothko, the only way to find your inspiration, is by been out working¨ I think that’s the only way to find something that inspires your work, is by being out there shooting, creating, making new things happen. I get my inspiration of working.

SL: You seem to have done a lot of travelling, has this helped to inspire your work? Do you find people in different countries respond to your work in different ways? TE: Yes, people definitely react differently to my work depending of where they are. For example in Paris, they don´t really like those photographs full of sunny colours and blue skies. They actually look for images that represent their type of light, that grey, monochromatic symbology of their own space, of their own city. It happens everywhere.

SL: You refer to yourself as Tigre Escobar, how did this name come about? What does it mean? TE: I needed to find an alter ego for my images. Something that actually allows me to come out of my shell and do whatever it takes to be the photographer I want to be. Tigre Escobar is like a brand to me, something that I need to push myself as much as possible outside my comfort zone. Also, my favorite ex-girlfriend is from Argentina. She lived in a place Called ¨Tigre Escobar¨ outside of Buenos Aires. Not sure why, but I always liked that name.

SL: What part of the process do you enjoy most; Is it meeting the people, setting up the shot or more about the final image, possibly something else? TE: The whole process is good. But when you finally see your images in a Magazine, or a billboard, that’s definitely the best part of the process.

SL: What project are you currently working on? What can we expect from you in the future? TE: I am planning my second solo show in an art gallery with a new project that I have called ¨memory tapes¨ You will have to keep in touch with my website to see it.

SL: What word of advice would you give to anyone who wants to go into the creative industry of photography? TE: ¨The only time you fail, is when you stop trying¨ SL: Any last words? TE: Yes. Write me. www.tigre-escobar.com, unfaithful2me.tumblr.com.

“ t h e o n y t i m e y o u f a i l i s w h e n y o u s t o p t r y i n g ”

24


“

I Dont design clothes, I design dreams.

Ralph Lauren


image: hervia press

In 1993 Oscar Pinto founded Hervia, a trailblazing concept that was the first to stock debut collections from the late Alexander McQueen, as well as Helmut Lang and Hussein Chalayan. The brand is named after Oscar’s mother, Hervia, and when the first shop opened in Manchester’s Royal Exchange it became a legendary fashion hang-out. Oscar was devoted to Vivienne Westwood’s iconoclastic style long before she became accepted into the mainstream and it wasn’t long before Hervia was named by Vogue as one of the UK’s finest designer stores. Dramatically, the first Hervia was destroyed when an IRA bomb wreaked devastation on Manchester in 1996. Undaunted, Oscar went on to become hugely successful retailers of Vivienne Westwood, opening seven stores throughout the UK. Now they have decided to re-launch the original concept as Hervia Bazaar aiming not only to fill the design gap that seems to have opened up in the UK’s North West but to support and promote high-end fashion and home-grown design talent to a worldwide clientele via the Hervia Bazaar website. It is here you’ll find pieces for both men and women that have been chosen for their outstanding design quality, exclusivity and above all, because they should make the wearer feel utterly amazing... »

inside the industry w e t a k e a l o o k a t h e t r a i l b l a z i n g h e r v i a g r o u p

26


image: hervia press

We take thirty minutes with Phillip James the Operations Director of the Hervia Group. Seeking to find the truth about the fashion industry and what really goes on behind the scenes. This man has worked his way up from the bottom and now we go along that journey with him.

30 w h a t i t t a k e s t o m a k e i t i n t h e i n d u s t r y

SLANT: Top three all time songs? PHILLIP JAMES: Jay Z: The Black Album – Public Service Announcement Yeah Yeah Yeahs: Heads Will Roll Hit Makers Ft. Kaysee: Gonna Get U

SL: Top three people you would like to meet? PJ: Anthony Robbins Dali Lama Anna Wintour

SL: Top three fashion Designers? PJ: Rick Owens Comme des Garcon Main Line (Clothing Line) John Galliano Victor & Rolf

SL: Top three superheroes? PJ: Patrick Bateman (American Psycho) possibly not a super hero but in the same league Wolverine X Men Joker Batman

SL: What started your interest in your profession? Did you always want to work in fashion? PJ: I have always had an interest in clothes ever since I was a young man. I always liked to take pride my appearance and spent most of my wages on clothing. My initial interest came in the form of design while I was studying art as a GNVQ and it grew from there. I always had read fashion magazines and followed the latest trends. I was never really drawn to retail as a career but fell into a retail position at Vivienne Westwood due to friends knowing the owner of the Company. It made sense at the time as I have always loved meeting new people and it gave me chance to work with a luxury brand which I loved. It soon became clear after working on the shop floor that potentially I could earn a far better salary as a retailer rather than a designer. So that was the road I chose to follow.

SL: How did you become the director for such a huge fashion company? PJ: After I started working in the Vivienne Westwood Flag Ship store in Manchester I was quickly promoted to supervisor. I have always been extremely driven and I took every opportunity that was given to improve my personal situation, earn more money and gain more responsibility. Whenever I saw an opening that I could

take advantage of, I took it and within 12 months I was managing the store. This was a massive responsibility for someone who at the time was relatively inexperienced. I was not nearly as commercially aware as I am now, at the time it was still more about the clothes than the business for me. The Company that I work for puts massive pressure on the Managers and staff to make sales and increase profits. It was due to this pressure that the Area Manager at the time could no longer cope and left the business, which in turn opened up the opportunity for me to take on the Area Manger's role. I had already been working in other stores across the business training managers and staff as I had been noted as an extremely successful Store Manager. I quickly implemented massive restructuring in the way that the stores where accessed looking at KPI’s (Key Performance Indicators) and staff personal sales as well as profit margins and sell through. Although these areas had been touched on by the previous Management they had been more used to smaller independent retail and moved the business more towards the type of reporting and structure you would find in a much larger organisation. I was fortunate to have many close friends working at high levels in Selfridges and Arcadia Group and I bounced ideas off them as well as implementing much of the reporting that they used in their daily job role. I was able to form a bridge between the Directors of the Business and the staff enabling me to motivate the staff to increase sales and performance. It was at this time that I became heavily involved in the employment law side of the business and disciplinary procedure. I was involved in the dismissal of a large amount of under performing staff across the business which I found very difficult at the time. For me this was a real change from what I had been used to and a different world from the shop floor and the customers I had grown to know. The Company started to expand and I was involved in opening 4 further stores bring the total to 8. It was during this time that I was promoted to Retail Manager as I had to a high a work load and didn’t have the chance to go out to the stores and ensure the standards were been maintained. I recruited a replacement for my role as Area Manager and thus worked my way up to the next level. At this point I became heavily involved with the Ecommerce side of the business as it was taking 30% of the overall turnover for the business. I was behind the relaunch of the redesigned Hervia web site and the new Hervia Bazaar web site and store... »


image: phillip james

“ . . . p e o p l f a r m o r e l e y t o b u a w e l l k n n a m e ”

e a r e l i k y i n t o o w n

SL: You have just launched the new flagship store for Y-3 in London, how do you feel about it? PJ: I feel as though this has been a positive move for the business and should help us to gain more sales revenue. It’s also positive for us to have a flagship store based in London. The opening of the store was a massive success and was attended by Yohji Yamamoto and his mother. The only Y-3 launch he has attended other than the Tokyo store. We hope that the store will be a success and that we will be able to expand this part of the business into other locations.

SL: Opening a store for Yohji Yamamoto is an amazing achievement for any business. How do you manage to get such big names involved, is this through the personal contacts of the directors or do the designers approach you to represent them? PJ: Our Company is well known for working with

SL: How many stores do Hervia currently run? PJ: We currently operate 7 Vivienne Westwood Stores, 1 Hervia Bazaar Store and the Flagship Y-3 Store London. We also run 2 ecommerce sites with a further site launch this week (w/c 14/03/2011) image: phillip james

SL: It seems that E-commerce plays a very important role in sales for Hervia, do you see this becoming even more dominant in the future as technology begins to consume more and more of our lives? PJ: I think that it will with out doubt take a bigger section of the business. The largest sales growth has been in that side of the business. However we always try and ensure that the sales in the stores are maintained and we have had to limit certain items in terms of quantity on the website. If we allowed it the ecommerce side of the business would sell through all of the most popular lines and leave nothing for the stores. As we are limited to the amount of jewellery and bags we can buy, we have to ensure that the stores have a good quantity of stock throughout the season. The main advantage of the website is it is open for business 24/7 all year round. Shoppers are definitely spending far more money online than ever before.

designers in order to open stand alone stores so we were approached to open the store. Having run such a successful Vivienne Westwood franchise we have been well noted in the fashion industry. Although a lot of designers have the set up to produce clothing they often don’t have the resources to open a retail store. We take most of the risk in these cases as the designers don’t risk the rent and rates of the store, but benefit from the exposure and we benefit from the store so long as we ensure it’s profitable. It’s a good situation for both parties. We are always looking to expand the business where ever we can across the UK and make more profits overall.

SL: The Bazaar store in Spring Gardens supports a lot of young and new designers. Do you feel it’s important to support the up and coming designers as well as the more established ones? PJ: I think that for the store it is important to stock new designers as it shows that we are looking forward and offering a totally different product selection from our competitors. We have worked with the London Fashion Council to promote designers such as Holly Fulton who has now become 'a must have name'. From my point of view as a Director many of these designers can only be stocked for one or two seasons at most as they are often not profitable for the business. Unfortunately from a customer’s point of view the price point is often hard to justify, people are far more likely to buy into a well know name than be talked into a new designer, although it can be done by strong sales staff who are well educated in new label... »


image: hervia press image: hervia press

“ . . . y o u h a v e t o b e m e n t a l l y s t r o n g ”

SL: What would a designer have to do to get their collection in the store? PJ: The best way to get your label in store is to offer a strong collection on a sale or return basis. That way I take no risk in stocking the product. If you can show a strong directional collection which we feel will sell well and offer something different to the store then we will consider stocking the product. I also think that price point is important the cost has to justifiable, either in the quality of the product or the strength of the brand.

SL: What in your mind is the key to a successful career in the world of fashion? PJ: You have to be strong mentally and able to work under extreme pressure 24/7. It’s unfortunate but if you are of a weak disposition or do not have the ability to sell yourself and your skills then you are unlikely to get far. I have interviewed hundreds of applicants from some of the best universities in the country and few have shone other than those who are outgoing and able to project a good personality. There is such competition for every position that you need to shine. You also need to have a strong personal image for many roles and be ambassador for your Company at all times. Most of my best staff have an absolute love for fashion and the confidence to interact with people at every level. From a progression point of view experience is the most important quality that you can have as an individual. You have to be willing to work your way up from the very bottom, with the right attitude this can be done quickly. You will also need to know the right people as many opportunities are already filled before they are even advertised in this industry due to the amount of speculative applications. Networking is extremely important... » 30


image: hervia press

SL: What advice would you give to people who want to get into the industry? PJ: Start at the bottom and work your way up, make sure you have a clear plan of where you want to be and don’t be afraid to take opportunities that arise. You need to start with the end in mind and then work your way back from there.

“ s t a r t a t t h e b o t t o m a n d w o r k y o u r w a y u p ”

SL: What do you like about your job? What’s been the highlight so far? PJ: The opportunities that I have been given in a rapidly expanding business have been unbelievable. I have opened multiple stores and new online businesses which have given me a wealth of experience. I have also met some of my closest friends through work, people who I can relate to closely as we have the same love for clothing and the lifestyle that comes with that. I love working in an environment where I am constantly stretched to my absolute limits. I couldn’t imagine not working in such a fast paced environment.

SL: Do you ever get to meet any of the designers? PJ: Yes I have met many of the designers as I have been involved in the buying of the collections for the much of my career. I met Yohji Yamamoto at the Y-3 store this week which was a real honour as I love his clothing lines.

SL: You see a lot of celebrities wearing Vivienne Westwood these days. Do you get many coming through your stores? PJ: Yes we do get them in all the time. I have met image: phillip james

hundreds in my time at Westwood and dressed many for photo shoots and press calls. Victoria Beckham was a regular customer before she moved to the states. JLS are always in the stores and have really bought into the Westwood brand.

SL: What parts of the job could you live without? PJ: Sometimes the pressure of the job is so intense that I have become physically ill. I have direct responsibility for every part of the business and am ultimately responsible for every problem. There have been times where I have found the workload difficult to manage. I am often found myself trying to justify poor sales performance where there has been no notable reason and that is extremely difficult. Few people realise how hard fashion retail can be and the pressure that you are put under on a daily basis. It’s not all glitz and glamour, in my position ultimately it’s about making money.

SL: Where do you see yourself in 5 years time? PJ: I would like to be in London, Paris or New York in five years time. I would like to be working at the same level but in a larger Company. I don’t think that my career will be able to be maintained in Manchester for longer than another couple of years due to the lack of Head Office function in this region.

32


SLANT MAGA Z INE C OMING TO THE i PAD SOON !

W W W . SLANTMAGA Z INE . C O . U K

w w w . s l a n t m a g a z i n e . c o . u k


Eagerly awaited each year, the Degree Shows represents the culmination of up to four years of learning, research, and development and provides a great opportunity to see the work of tomorrow’s leading designers. This year we take a look at the eagerly awaited collections from the students of Winchester School of Art, an often forgotten about faculty but not one to be underestimated. Gaining status each year the school is quickly becoming recognised as a place for producing outstanding designers of the future. This years class sees a mixed bunch of collections from biker inspired ballet dresses, to stripe cinema jackets and everything in between. It promises to be a show to remember with some real 'show stopping pieces.' There is something for everyone, whether it is bold prints you are after or refined silhouettes, the students show just what is possible with the right imagination. The school will be holding two shows, in Winchester’s Great Hall (the home of the round table) and in the heart of the fashion capital, London's Brick Lane in June 2011. Slant had the privilege to interview 4 of these special designers to find out what makes them tick, where they get their inspiration from and most importantly where they see themselves in the future. We offer a sneak preview both into the mind and the workings of the designers as they gear up to take on the most important show of their life. Who knows, maybe one of these talented designers will be the next McQueen!... »

up and coming w i n c h e s t e r s c h o o l o f a r t ’ s l a t e s t e d i t i o n s


image: alick baldwin

“ . . . a b o o k I f o u n d o n 1 9 5 0 s J a p a n e s e R o b o t s , t h e y w e r e s o c u t e ”

SL: What made you choose fashion design as a career path? RD: I was originally going to do French at uni but the thought of a whole life without being creative changed my mind. I have always had an interest in clothes. Fashion is so exciting. I used to love designing clothes when I was little. My mum said I asked to choose my own clothes from when I was four or five, because I didn’t like the ones she chose for me. SL: Your final collection is underway, what is the theme and idea for the collection? RD: My theme is inspired by a book I found on 1950s Japanese Robots, they were so cute, I liked their interesting individual silhouettes and bright colours. I continued on to research 50s American cars, which were very space inspired for further shape inspiration as they had always been of interest to me. I then continued to look into the way in which the space era influenced fashion, mainly French fashion of the late 60s, Pierre Cardin’s work mainly. SL: Where do you get your inspiration from? RD: I gain a lot of my inspiration through shape and silhouette, also bold clashy colour, print and knit. SL: Is your collection ready to wear or a more conceptual approach to design? RD: More conceptual, I feel that I want people to see my work as something that they have not seen before, not something you might see in the shops. I want them to be inspired by it not imagine themselves wearing it.

rosie davis Rosie Davis one of the schools most daring designers, her trade mark becomming that of bold, colourful prints playing a big part of the collection.

SL: Where do you see yourself in a years time? Where do you want to be? RD: I see myself being a designer, maybe working for someone. I very much enjoyed designing hats for the accessories project, everyone loves crazy hats! SL: What was your child hood dream? RD: I was always making plans of our house and how I could fit an en-suite bathroom into the box room I shared with my sister. I quite liked the idea of being a River Dancer or being part of a band like S Club 7, I liked making up dances.

SLANT: What do you like to do at the weekend? ROSIE DAVIS: In a dream world I would like to relax, spend lots of money on clothes, go out to dinner, drink cocktails, go to the cinema, visit fun places like zoos and museums, have a roast dinner. SL: What do you like about being a designer? RD: I like creating something from my imagination. It's rewarding when it is all completed. I like finishing a garment perfectly, it's very exciting and rewarding. SL: Do you think talent exists? RD: Yes I think that not everyone is creative in the same way as others. I don’t think you can be taught to be creative, you are born creative. I think you have to have an imagination one which can wander to exciting places and make anything possible.

image: stephen hislop


nadine mukhtar

image: stephen hislop

“ I w a n t t o e n j o y m y c a r e e r a s I d o d e s i g n i n g a n d c r e a t i n g ” Nadine Mukhtar has created some stunning pieces for her collection, using paper sculpture to form the shape and design for her garments.

SLANT: What made you choose fashion design as a career path? NADINE MUKHTAR: I have always enjoyed art and design, however I never really thought of it as anything but a hobby until I took an art and design foundation course after collage where I realised that I want to enjoy my career as I do designing and creating! SL: Your final collection is underway, what is the theme and idea for the collection? NM: Looking at mathematics in art and design I have developed my collection by using various techniques in my designs to create a mix of conceptual and wearable garments. SL: Where do you get your inspiration from? NM: I find inspiration in a variety of places, from past experiences, subjects I am interested in and read about and from my travels. It could be a photograph, a book or just something I see. SL: Is your collection ready to wear or a more conceptual approach to design? NM: I have actually taken a conceptual approach to this project, something I would not have predicted if you had asked me a year ago as my work is usually more wearable. I am really enjoying it however and I am learning more about myself as a designer by doing so.

SL: Where do you see yourself in a years time? Where do you want to be? NM: I hate questions like this, it is really daunting thinking about it...! I really don’t know, although if I could choose to do anything I would be travelling the world again before working on a new collection. SL: What was your child hood dream? NM: ....? SL: What do you like to do at the weekend? NM: Spend time with friends and family, go to the cinema, plan my next travels....! SL: What do you like about being a designer? NM: I really enjoy being creative, designing allows me to do this with no restrictions. Being able to control everything about the final outcome is really satisfying and fun.

image: alick baldwin

SL: Do you think talent exists? NM: This is a really interesting question! In one word yes. I think some things can be taught and with practice most things can be achieved, but personally I think that some people just have that ‘flare’, it comes naturally to them.


image: stephen hislop

“ t e a m i n g c l a s h i n g p r i n t s a n d e q u e s t r i a n l e a t h e r s w i t h a n e c l e c t i c c l a s h o f c u l t u r e s ”

Kim has stayed true to her word with her degree show line up, mixing clashing prints to create a frresh and exciting approach to a final collection. SLANT: What made you choose fashion design as a career path? KIM KNIGHT: The hard work and long hours (JOKE)! I guess I kind of fell into it, I was doing a psych degree and half way through wondered what I was doing. I always have been creative and missed it so much I ditched psychology and went back to what I know. SL: Your final collection is underway, what is the theme and idea for the collection? KK: I have been looking at cultural minorities, pockets of people forgotten about. Teaming clashing prints and equestrian leathers with an eclectic clash of cultures. I’ve looked a lot at the Sami people (reindeer herders in Norway/Sweden) and the hyena men of Nigeria. SL: Where do you get your inspiration from? KK: Human Planet! Amazingly good for cultural research, and things a little different from western civilisation. Old magazines. Grey gardens – a 70’s documentary. I regularly read newspapers and talk to new people about their lives. Travelling is also a huge influence to me. SL: Is your collection ready to wear or a more conceptual approach to design? KK: There will be elements of my designs that are not very practical for everyday use but my general design approach tends to be about layering and the creation of interesting silhouettes. Having pieces that are ready to wear will be a feature of my collection but I aim to use my own prints and customisation. I feel the most basic garment styled correctly could be a real showstopper. SL: Where do you see yourself in a years time? Where do you want to be? KK: I’d like to have moved forward in terms of a career. I definitely want to work overseas and see myself travelling with work. I really would like to get into styling but have also been considering a jewellery internship.

SL: What do you like to do at the weekend? KK: Many things when I have time, wander round Brighton and look in the crazy shops there, I love looking at all the old stuff nobody wants to buy, and the ridiculous things I never use but feel the need to buy, like typewriters and old milk bottles. But most of all wandering along Bournemouth beach taking irrelevant photos (especially when there is no one around) SL: What do you like about being a designer? KK: Being able to create things that don’t already exist, finding weird and wonderful fabrics to use that most people would never dream of putting together – so in simple terms doing what the hell I like and having fun in the process!

SL: Who’s your Hero? Why? KK: I think here I should pull out some person and everyone thinks what an amazing answer that is! But I don’t really have one. I admire lots of people for things they do but not a Hero. My family are pretty cool though if a little crazy, they keep me smiling. SL: What was your child hood dream? KK: To be able to fly! I used to have dreams I could fly and spend hours jumping off the back of our living room sofa, my mum told me it wasn’t possible but I wasn’t having any of it. It seems I have always been a bit of a dreamer. (And I was 5 it wasn’t last year)

SL: Do you think talent exists? KK: Yes. I think some people are naturally talented at certain things and it just clicks for them, others have to work really hard. If you find what your talent lies in your extremely lucky – I think pure genius is one in a million, its really exciting to experience. image: stephen hislop

kim knight 40


image: stephen hislop

Katie Minshall has created some ground breaking pieces for her final collection, with her illusion inspired print, set to be a real show stopper.

“ t h e w o r l d o f f a s h i o n h a s a l w a y s a p p e a r e d v e r y g l a m o r o u s a n d I w a n t e d t o b e a p a r t o f t h a t ”

SLANT: What made you choose fashion design as a career path? KATIE MINSHALL: I have always been creative right through my school years and always been curious to make my own clothes. It was this curiosity and interest in design that made me pursue fashion at university. The world of fashion has always appeared very glamorous and I wanted to be a part of that. SL: Your final collection is underway, what is the theme and idea for the collection? KM: During my summer project 2010 I started looking at illusion and my nans Magic Eye pictures from the 90s. For my final major project I wanted to expand on the subject looking at Dali and how he tricked the viewers eye through his paintings. At this time I was reading an edition of Wallpaper magazine where they used Ombro Cinema to create animations through printed matter that also really interested me. I have taken elements from different sources and techniques of illusion to generate a collection that appears to be one thing when actually its not. SL: Where do you get your inspiration from? KM: I always look at alot of artists work to transfer to fahsion, wether it being colour, shape or a mood. I find it easier to be inspired by a visual source than say a written source. I think that by looking outside of fashion you often find ideas that when brought into the fashion world are very unique and somewhat original. SL: Is your collection ready to wear or a more conceptual approach to design? KM: My collection is somewhere in-between, well more ready to wear with a twist. I like to think of my self when designing which often leads to a more ready to wear collection. I see conceptual design as more of a form of art than fashion, I prefer to design with the body in mind. SL: Where do you see yourself in a years time? Where do you want to be? KM: Right now I want to find something that would be a job where it wouldn't feel like going to work every day more of a fun job, a kind of lifestyle choice. I want to be able to wake up in the morning and be excited about the day ahead. I’m not sure if I have found that with being a fashion designer.

SL: Describe the most beautiful thing you have ever seen. KM: Probably when I went to the Maldives, the fish, the sea and this storm that was incredible. The greys, purples and the sheer power was a truly beautiful experience.

image: alick baldwin

SL: What reaction do you receive when you tell people what you do? KM: Some people are like WOW, others you get the feeling they think its a bit of an easy degree with not much work involved. I can tell you 12 hours in the studio a day is a lot more work than my other friends at uni. I guess as a student you have to do everything from desiing right through to making the garments, where as in industry you are usually just designing the collection. I could go on, but take it from me this is the most intense degree you could ever do.

image: stephen hislop

katie minshall

SL: Daytime or night time work? KM: Daytime, as I usually fall asleep by about nine.


t h e h o t t e s t w a y t o m a k e a n i m p a c t t h i s s u m m e r p h o t o g r a p h s b y s t e p h e n h i s l o p – m o d e l l e d b y l a u r e n i r w i n

lashing out


barrym dazzle dust tipped lashes illamasqua eye liner


snow flake plume lashes white glitter lips dior eye shodow


extra long lashes barrym dazzle dust no. 7 eye shadow


snowy fur lashes bobi brown eye shadow chanel lipstick


snow flake plume lashes white glitter lips dior eye shodow


tank topshop. skirt models own.

making waves t a k i n g t o t h e b e a c h t h i s s u m m e r ? l o o k n o f u r t h e r

p h o t o g r a p h y b y s t e p h e n h i s l o p – m o d e l l e d b y k a t i e m i n s h a l l


shorts topshop. bikini top freya.


dress h&m.


tank topshop. skirt models own.


dress topshop.


e n j o y a n y t i m e , a n y w h e r e . v i e w n o w a t s l a n t m a g a z i n e . c o . u k

W W W . SLANTMAGA Z INE . C O . U K

w w w . s l a n t m a g a z i n e . c o . u k


a source of inspiration o x f o r d b o t a n i c a l g a r d e n s A trip to the Oxford Botanic Garden’s is one that will stick with you for a lifetime. A very unassuming place from the outside but what lies through the gates is a world of awe and total inspiration. Walking through the glasshouses will truly take your breath away, where intertwining hanging vines, cacti from all over the wold and enormous floating lily pads are just some examples of nature at its finest. “We are often asked how a botanic garden differs from other types of gardens. Botanic gardens are collections of plants that are grown for purposes other than purely aesthetic reasons – but in Oxford Botanic Garden we do try to arrange the plants in attractive, sympathetic and exciting ways. Many people come here to seek inspiration... Furthermore this Garden is a national reference collection of 7,000 different types of plant, making it the most compact yet diverse collection of plants in the World – there is even more biological diversity here than there is in tropical rain forests and other biodiversity hotspots.” The Garden consists of three sections. The Glasshouses contain plants that need protection from the extremes of the British weather. The area outside the Walled Garden contains classic garden features such as a Water Garden and Rock Garden as well as the innovative Black Border and Autumn Borders. Within the Walled Garden plants are grouped in a number of different ways such as by country of origin, botanic family or economic use. The gardens are a great way to gain first hand experience of nature at its best, a tangable source that books could only dream of achieveing. Take our word for it, go and visit this amazing place! Oxford Botanic Garden & Harcourt Arboretum, Oxford. www. botanic-garden.ox.ac.uk.

“ m a n y p e o p l e c o m e h e r e t o s e e k i n s p i r a t i o n . . . ”

60


the slant playlist w e h a v e p i c k e d o u t s o m e o f t h e b i g g e s t t u n e s t o h i t t h e s h o r e s t h i s y e a r, p l u s s o m e t h a t m a y h a v e s l i p p e d t h e n e t .

d i a n e b i r c h n o t h i n g b u t a m i r a c l e m e d i n a a n d i

-

y o u

This track has been around for a while now and is set to be a huge tune once again this summer. An upbeat electro dance feel with vocals puts this tune in place to be the anthem to a summer of festivals and great music.

Diane Birch is an American singer songwriter, not that well known in the UK but is a truly amazing artist. With a folk feel to her voice, her sound is truly unique, a great album to relax to on long summer days.

a l e x a n d r a s t a n - m r s a x o b e a t Mr Saxobet is a huge summer anthem by Romainian artist Alexandra Stan. Topping the charts in her own country and right across Europe this tune is going to be huge in the clubs all summer long. Uptempo dance with a saxaphone beat makes for a tried and tested tune, this is no different. Available for download now!

j a m i e w o o n l a d y l u c k

-

Jamie Woon has really exploded onto the scene this year with an amazing mellow voice mixed with some strong beats makes for a truly mesmorising listen. With hits Lady Luck and Night Air he is definitely worth having on your playlist. Available for download now!

j a m e s b l a k e l i m i t t o y o u r l o v e

f l u x p a v i l l i o n - b a s s c a n n o n A truly head exploding track, this should come with a warning for those with sensitive hearing. Turn the speakers up and bring down the walls with this truly explosive beat.

This track has been around for a while now, Limit to your Love is a perfect chill out tune for any summer evening. Stunning voice and stunning piano makes for an incredible track. If you dont already own it, get it now.

To listen to all these tracks visit www.slantmagazine.co.uk.


adriana w w w. a d r i a n a - c o s m e t i c s . c o m


GABELE W W W. G A B E L E . C O M


SLANT M a g a z i n e i s a n e w a p p r o a c h t o t h e genre. Mixing experimental design with engaging content, bringing the reader a fresh and new approach to the portrayal of fashion in magazines. The aim is to inspire, inform and educate the reader on subjects a traditional fashion magazine would not u s u a l l y c o v e r. A s e n s e o f r e a l i t y a n d h o n e s t y f l o w s t h r o u g h SLANT, a r a r e o f f e r i n g i n t h i s day and age.

Slant Magazine  

Fashion Magazine - aimed to give the reader a closer look at the fashion industry.

Read more
Read more
Similar to
Popular now
Just for you