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Incredible India 3

V. 3

Incredible India 3

Journal kept by Susan Hanes during a !ve"week journey in northwestern India from January # to February $% &''() Photos by Susan Hanes and George Leonard% copyright &''()


Incredible India 3

Incredible India 3


Incredible India January 5-February 7, 2009 There are some parts of the world that, once visited, get into your heart and won't go ... India is such a place

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Tuesday, January 27

Mt. Abu

Deliciously decadent to sleep in the cool silence of our palace

were leaving% I bought a temple medal depicting Ganesh%

room and not have to get up until !:"#$ Peaceful% leisurely

with Om on the back% and Sanskrit writing that I later learned

breakfast overlooking the village of Mt$ Abu while Jake slept

was a child0s morning prayer$ Decided not to stay down in the

in$ Just before noon a jeep taxi took us down the hill to the

village% returning by taxi to spend a quiet a1ernoon in our

Jain temples at Dilwara$ No shoes% no leather% no cameras% no

roo1op hideaway% enjoying the view and a chance to relax$

cell phones% not even water allowed% so we entered unencumbered by the usual accoutrements$ Just as well% for we had no distractions as we walked through the &ve temples built between the ''th and '(th centuries$ Although there were lots of people there )few Westerners% however* we managed our timing and avoided the crowds so that we could enjoy the serenity and quiet that invited contemplation$ Dilwara is an extraordinary place$ Most impressive was the ''th c$ Vimal Vasahi temple$ Over +(## artisans% using abrasive strings or small &les% created a profusion of delicate lace,like carvings in pure white marble$ Hundreds of tirthankara% those -victorious ones. who by their ankara )absence of violence*% chastity% truth% and poverty had broken the cycle of samsara )reincarnation*% were placed in niches around the central shrine of Adinatha )the &rst tirthankara* as examples of perfection$ Between the niches% beautiful human forms were sculpted% of such translucence% grace% and beauty% as I have never seen before$ Around these shapes% every surface% however tiny% was carved in ornate geometric or /oral motifs: on ceilings% domes% archways% walls% and pillars$ As we

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Mt. Abu


Dilwara Jain Temple

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Wednesday, January 28

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Rankapur/Kumbhalgarh/Udaipur

Sunrise over the hills from our balcony! On the road towards

temples and the surrounding countryside! From there it was

Rankapur by ":## with Manoj$ our driver from Travel Made

(# km! to Udaipur! The road was only a one/lane strip but it

Easy and a comfortable and immaculate Toyota Innova! Four

wound through the most interesting countryside we have

hours later$ we arrived at the largest Jain Temple in India$

seen: hills and dry stream beds$ tiny villages and small squares

completed in %&'(! It contains more than %&## heavily carved

of green cultivated land growing sugarcane$ cattle forage$

pillars$ all of them unique! Unlike at Dilwara$ we were

and a wheat/like grain! All along the way were men in large

allowed to take pictures$ as long as we did not try to

colorful turbans and women in bright saris! Around every bend

photograph the main sanctuary or )as Jake learned* any of

we found a feast for the eyes! Just outside Udaipur$ we came

the statues depicting tirthankara! While he was shooting

to a giant road construction site! Recent blasting had opened a

away$ a guard blew his whistle at him and made him delete

huge hole through which massive construction equipment and

all that he had taken of the forbidden subjects! Although the

every size of vehicle were trying to get through at the same

temple was impressive$ the delicate beauty of Dilwara had

time! In true Indian style$ the giant tie/up was quickly

spoiled us! Besides$ there were a large number of Western

dissipated by everyone going whichever way they wanted

tourists there$ which had a negative e+ect on our sense of the

with no attempt at order; soon we were on our way again!

place! Drove through secluded woodlands on a narrow road

Manoj took us to several shops as we headed into town but

to Kumbhalgarh Fort! Second in size only to the Great Wall of

we saw nothing really special compared to the amazing

China$ its walls stretch over the foothills of a wildlife

shopping opportunities in Ahmedabad! Down through narrow

sanctuary for ', km! A fort was -rst built on this spot in the

lanes to the Jagat Niwas Palace$ a haveli on Lake Pichola! Our

'rd c! but over time it was enlarged$ and by the %.th c! the

room is large$ with a lakeside view and interesting antique

walls encompassed '## temples and palaces! Climbed to the

furniture! Late dinner on the terrace$ overlooking the Lake

very top of the fort for a commanding view of the remaining

Palace!


Shri Rankapur


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Kumbhalgarh Fort


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Udaipur


Our Room at Jagat Niwas Palace

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Thursday, January 29

Udaipur

Pigeons scrambling for positions on the window ledges

royal pastimes$ Shopped at Anokhi and Aashka! lovely

gently woke us from a great sleep on a hard mattress! "at

boutiques where I found an interesting sliver necklace and

pillow! and feather#light comforter that I wish I could

great bargains on several pieces of clothing$ Walked to the

replicate at home$ Jake thought I was kidding; I wasn%t$

lakeside and stopped for a beer on the Sunset Terrace of the

Breakfast upstairs on the terrace&a little chilly$ Interesting

Fateh Prakash Palace$ Looked at some miniature paintings

contrasts in our views of the lake: in one direction! the Lake

at a nearby shop but decided not to buy anything$ Returning

Palace Hotel rising elegantly out of its own re"ection; in the

to the hotel! fortuitously stopped in at the travel center next

other! sludge! garbage! and grounded old boats stuck in the

door to arrange for airport pickup! only to learn that our

mess$ The monsoon will soon remedy this$ Walked through

"ight to Jaisalmer had been cancelled! as well as "ights to

the old town to the City Palace Museum where we made

Jodhpur and to Jaipur$ A scramble! but managed to arrange

our way up and down the steps and through the

for Manoj to drive us to both Jaisalmer and Jodhpur$

passageways of Rajasthan%s largest palace! a mish#mash of

Fortunately I had asked for his card before he departed so it

Rajput and Mughal styles with a kind of Baroque inspiration$

was no problem to arrange for his services$ I was not too

Enjoyed looking at the extensive collection of uniquely

happy about the alternative of '' hours in a taxi$

styled Mewari miniature paintings depicting court life and

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City Palace Museum


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Friday, January 30

Jaisalmer

Manoj met us outside the Jiwas promptly at !:"" AM#

Pokaran$ near the site of India+s nuclear tests in &,-' and

Retraced the route to Rankapur$ again following the

&,,!# The setting sun became brutal$ resulting in a blinding

narrow road through the Mewari countryside# I commented

drive for the last ./ km# of our 0""(km# journey$ but at

that the drive was so interesting and Manoj said that

0:1" we )nally arrived in Jaisalmer# Manoj turned us over

Rajasthan is best explored by car and it was lucky for us

to a tuc(tuc at the lower gate of the fort$ as no cars are

that our %ights had been cancelled# That made me feel a

allowed within the ramparts# Suitcases and bags were

bit better about the long drives we had ahead of us# Joined

stu2ed in with us and the little motor putted us up the

National Highway &'$ partially a blast site and partially a

steep cobblestone lane and deposited us at the steps of

'(lane divided highway$ depending on whether the

Garh Jaisal$ located in an old haveli right in the fort itself# It

contractor had completed his portion of the road#

is an intriguing little hotel$ not exactly luxurious but with

Interesting to drive along this beautiful new road and still

golden sandstone walls and a nice view of the town below#

)nd cattle ambling across and camels and ox carts sharing

Raj$ our congenial host$ welcomed us and later walked us

lanes with speeding trucks# The drive into Jodhpur got kind

back down to the gate$ thus shielding us 3for this trip

of tense; lots of tra*c$ tons of trucks$ and very narrow

anyway4 from the enthusiastic vendors anxious to share

pavement with no shoulders# At last we passed the

their shawls and trinkets with us# Manoj was waiting for us

congestion and headed north towards Jaisalmer on good$

and took us the short distance to Trio$ a restaurant well

straight road with little tra*c# The military was

documented in the travel books and thus full of Westerners

responsible$ for there is a large military presence in the

like ourselves# Local music and a good thali dinner under a

area$ as evidenced by the camou%aged trucks and jeeps

colorful tent: only wish that we had been the only tourists#

that we passed# The road went through the town of

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Saturday, January 31

Jaisalmer

The sounds of beeps! moos! and barks under our perch

the #$th centuries" The profusion of carvings was

atop the fort served as our alarm clock" Looking out

sandstone and we were still jaded by the beauty of

over the little houses and shops and the people starting

those pearly marble sculptures at Dilwara" Leaving the

their work! I found myself thinking that this scene has

fort! we crossed the street to Laycha Jewelers! located

probably not changed much for hundreds and hundreds

up a narrow stairway with a low overhang that Jake

of years" The silent ruins that we think so romantic are

bumped more than once" The second'generation owner!

merely ghost towns; this fort is busy and breathing with

Madan Soni! introduced himself to us and showed us

life! much as it must have since it was constructed in

antique embroideries! interesting old locks! and various

##$%" A nice breakfast on the sunny roof terrace&with

silver items" Decided to buy several things and have

the beeps of the tuc'tucs below and the zooms of MiGs

some earrings made" With his son! Pradeep! as a guide!

from the air base above" Walked down to the Raj

we set o* to +nd an ATM! +nally locating an operable

Mahal! the royal palace museum with its richly

unit a,er nearly an hour and several attempts" Returned

ornamented fa(ade" Up and down more steps to see a

to the shop to pick up our things; Madan invited us to his

disappointing collection" Most interesting were sets of

home for dinner and a showing of his family collection

various kinds of stamps" Followed a narrow alley to the

of antique Jaisalmer textiles" Jake was not too sure

Jain temples! a group of shrines linked by courtyards and

about this but I thought it would be an interesting

galleries that were constructed between the #)th and

experience and prevailed upon him to agree"

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Wanted to see the havelis in the old town and Pradeep

strong and spicy black tea that was absolutely

again served as our guide through the alleys and lanes

wonderful" Madan opened a metal cabinet (his

to Patwon Ki! the largest and most elaborate of them"

*treasure chest+) and for the next couple of hours! he

Pradeep insisted that we climb the stairs to all #ve

took out piece a,er piece of exquisite! museum-quality

$oors! and did not let us take short cuts with our visit"

embroidery for us to admire" A,er an hour or so!

Also paid an entrance fee and a camera fee to visit a

Puchpa! his wife! served us a delicious vegetarian meal!

small museum across the way but there was nothing

thali-style! at a low table" Sometime a,er .:''! we

much to see and we did not take a picture" Met Manoj

protested that we should be going! at which point they

for a short visit to a silversmith who had a family

insisted on showing us their /-story house that included

business out of his home" Then back to Madan%s shop

a showroom of the father%s silverwork and prized

just before &:'' so that Pradeep could lead us to their

treasures for sale" It was interesting for is to see the

house" He took us a roundabout way! through an

amazingly poor utilization of space in the house" The

endless tangle of alleys! broken pavement! animal

Soni family0Grandma! Grandpa! Madan! Puchpa! and

excrement! and excited children" At one point! I was

their three children0was crammed into a couple of

almost caught up in a couple of copulating cattle"

bare rooms on the ground $oor: the kitchen was tiny

Madan welcomed us at his front door (he had come on

and the TV viewing platform appeared to be a parked

his motorcycle the direct way)" Removed our shoes and

motorcycle" But above! they had three more $oors and

came in to meet the father who was sitting at a low

a #nished roo,op terrace with marble $oor" At 1:2'

workbench and just putting the #nishing touches on my

we insisted that we had to go and Madan led us the

earrings" We all admired them and he beamed when I

short way back to the gate where a tuc-tuc whisked us

expressed my pleasure in how they had turned out" We

up to our hotel" A roo,op drink before going down to

were shown into a small room where I sat on a mat on

bed! but pounding music and several loud bangs below

the $oor (Jake was brought a chair) and were served

made sleep di3cult"


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Sunday, February 1

Jodhpur

The revelry continued almost all night! the pounding music

us at the Taj Hari Mahal and we said good*by to him again

eventually morphing into soulful chanting" Too chilly for

a)er our many kilometers together" A lovely woman greeted

breakfast on the roof! we ate indoors" Met Manoj at #:$$

us and placed a dot of sandalwood paste on our foreheads

again for the trip back to Jodhpur" Again! lots of military

again" Were served hot chocolate and given warm towels as

vehicles but otherwise! little tra%c" A tea stop for Manoj at

we checked in" Our comfortable room was most welcome

Manvar Resort! billed &an oasis in the desert;' actually a very

a)er the last few nights in that strange little hotel at Jaisalmer

nice roadside guesthouse" Nearing Jodhpur! passed great stone

Fort" Napped and luxuriated in the tub in the a)ernoon; then

quarries and trucks! trucks! trucks" Manoj took us directly to

down to the bar for a drink" Another &Only in India' moment:

the Sardar Market by the clock tower where we went to

a &Drinks Bu(et'+all you can drink from ,:-$ to .$:-$" Good

Mohantal Verhomal! a spice shop owned by young Nikki and

idea? Tried Indian vodka and rum+not bad" Looked in Paisley!

her seven sisters and recently widowed mother" As she

the hotel boutique! and recognized the owner! Fazal" We met

explained! theirs is the only legitimate spice shop around! and

him in Mumbai when he was visiting the Kashmir Art Palace

showed us how fake sa(ron is made with dye and old

when we were there"

newspapers" We le) with curry and masala spices and a URL

Restaurant was one of the best meals we/ve had in India"

Later! dinner in the hotel/s Marwar

where we can download their cookery book" Manoj dropped

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The Spice Market

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Taj Hari Mahal Jodhpur

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Monday, February 2

Jodhpur

Lazy morning! sleeping in a bit! which felt great! especially in

jali" The e'ect of it all was magical" And from its location

our lovely room" Breakfast and a little shopping at Fazal#s

high above the city we were treated with views of the blue

shop" At $:%%! we arranged for a car to take us to several

houses! and in the distance! the Umaid Bhawan Palace" As we

points of interest in Jodhpur" Biwani was our driver; he took

descended the steep cobblestone lane! we saw the series of

us &rst to Mehrangarh Fort" As we drove up the rocky cli'

handprints of the maharani who had committed sati!

above the old town! we saw the houses painted blue that

throwing themselves onto their husbands# funeral pyres" On

give the Jodhpur the name! the (Blue City") The fort! still run

our way back into town! made a brief stop at Jaswant

by the Maharaja of Jodhpur! is captivating" Wisely chose to

Thanda! an *.// white marble cenotaph that marks the

spend the *+ rupees for the elevator to the top" Meandered

cremation spot of a former maharaja" Jake had arranged for

through various really neat exhibits: elephant seats

us to have dinner at Umaid Bhawan Palace! part of which has

,howdahs- decorated with animals that resembled Maurice

been turned into a Taj hotel" Spent the rest of the a0ernoon

Sendak#s Wild Things! palanquins with swans and covered

exploring the massive marble spaces ,with touches of Art

with silver! fancifully carved royal cradles" Many rooms were

Deco- and strolling in the garden" Drinks in the Trophy Bar

elaborately decorated with brightly colored paintings! gold

and dinner under The Pillars as the sun set in a cloudless sky"

leaf! and mirrors" In between were courtyards with carved

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Mehrangarh Fort 50


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Tuesday, February 3

Jaipur

By !:"" we were on the road again with Biwani as our driver#

these were just some of the stands we saw( row a+er row of

Another tense drive; all but the last $%" km# on a &'lane road#

them# Eventually we found the Maniharon ka Rasta( the narrow

Unbelievable number of trucks# So many( in fact( that there

alleyway where scores of tiny workshops make bangles of lac#

were shops along the way selling truck decorations)tinsel and

Using the resinous secretion of a female insect found in acacia

pompons)and countless truck stops as well# Saw another

and soapberry trees( a woody substance is created and formed

overturned truck)our *+h# Passed numerous abandoned

into bangles of every description# The choice was overwhelming

construction sites and partially completed buildings le+ to decay#

and it was charming to see them displayed in high( colorful

Jake commented that he had noticed the same thing on other

stacks# They are only a few rupees each; we chose some from

driving days# Big sigh of relief when we reached a new ,'lane

several little shops# At one( we watched a woman resize our

divided toll way( but soon realized that it too had succumbed to

choices using a miniature coal *re and a pair of pliers# Another

the way of Indian roads# Discomforting to be -ying down an

tuc'tuc back to the hotel where we had drinks by the pool(

expressway and still *nd cattle meandering down the middle

followed by dinner and music on the terrace#

and people casually crossing back and forth# No attempt either to have fast or slow lanes: all forms of vehicle passed each other from any lane# I will not miss this part of India# Biwani deposited us at the Samode Haveli( once the home of the Rawal of Samode( in the old Pink City# .Jaipur earned this nickname because its permanent buildings are washed in a warm( deep pink#/ We were served tea in the courtyard before being shown to a spacious suite with numerous alcoves and a canopied bed# Set out immediately to see the sights# A tuc'tuc with a very persistent driver who wanted to take us on a tour dropped us o0 at Hawa Mahal( the 1Palace of Winds2 the $344 landmark of Jaipur( built as a viewing stand for the women of the royal family# From there we walked through various bazaars with annoyingly persistent hawkers)a real gauntlet of pushiness# Vegetables( kitchenware( books( medicine( saris( and shawls) 60


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Wednesday, February 4

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Jaipur

Breakfast bu!et in the extensively decorated dining room"

was far better maintained than the one we visited in Delhi;

Tuc#tuc driven by the same o!ensive man we had yesterday;

the scales of measurement were still visible" Nearby was the

again he pushed to give us a tour and again we had him drop

City Palace$ set in a large compound surrounded by an &-th c"

us o! at the Hawa Mahal" Walked back to Maniharon Ka

wall where we saw textiles$ arms$ and two Guinness record#

Rasta to add to our bangle collection$ a feat that involved

holding silver urns" Tried to %nd a textile dealer recommended

crossing several busy streets" I have now %gured out how to do

by Fazal with no luck$ so we returned to the hotel" At ):.. I

this and hopefully stay in one piece: &" Wait for some kind of

had an appointment with Indira for a shirodhara massage at

break in the tra'c; (" Try to %nd a local to hide behind; )"

the spa" Following a full body massage with hot oil that

Once you start$ keep going at a %rm and steady pace" I

involved single movements from neck to toe$ she rubbed oil

accomplished *) by not looking" Although the bangle shops

over my face$ neck$ ears and head" Next in this Kerala

were picturesque$ the alley was anything but" It began with a

Ayurvedic therapy$ three liters of herbal oil was poured on my

bank of urinals which was far from private$ and continued

forehead in a thin stream$ for a half hour or so" The sensation

with numerous %lthy pigs nosing through copious piles of

was mesmerizing$ stimulating$ relaxing$ all at once" I have

garbage" A+er making our purchases$ we walked towards the

never felt anything like it" A+erwards$ &/ minutes of steam

City Palace$ stopping on our way at the Jantar Matar$ the

was followed by a shower" Wow" Really sensational" Met Jake

garden of colossal astronomical instruments built by Jai Singh

for cocktails by the pool again$ followed by dinner on the

II between &,(- and &,))$ that are so accurate that they led to

terrace with tabla and sitar gently playing in the background"

revisions of the Hindu and Muslim calendars" This observatory

Divinely decadent"


Jantar Mantar


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City Palace


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Thursday, February 5

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Amber/Jaipur

Veenu made arrangements for a driver to take us to Amber! At

Mandir$ a group of chambers inlaid with tiny mirrors that

":##$ Surendra picked us up in a Tata Indica$ adequate for

sparkled and shimmered in the light! I read that the light of a

today but not when we will be toting baggage to the airport

single candle re'ected in the mirrors transforms the room into

tomorrow! Amber is only % km! from Jaipur$ an easy drive on

a +starlit sky!, A-er we returned to the car$ Surendra took us a

nice roads! On the way$ passed the &%th c! Jal Mahal$ 'oating in

short distance through the village of Amber to the newly

the center of Lake Man Sagar! It had once been used by the

opened Anokhi Museum of Hand Printing$ located in a

maharajas for duck shoots$ but is now abandoned! I had talked

beautifully restored haveli! Walked through ex hibits

myself into taking the elephant ride up the steep ramp to

documenting the resurgence in hand block printing with

Amber Fort$ but Surendra drove right past the staging area and

examples of beautiful textiles! There was an excellent shop

brought us up the back way used by jeeps! Just as well; the

where we bought their publications! Back into town we drove

long line of tourists with their sun hats and cameras lurching up

on through the old Pink City and into the new part of Jaipur

the ramp looked so silly that we felt positively smug not to be

where we found the Anokhi 'agship store$ located on the

among them! Being in close proximity to Jaipur$ one of the top

second 'oor of an attractive mall in Kripal Kumbh! Their

three tourist destinations in India (with Delhi and Agra)$

fabrics are produced on their organic farm$ which also grows

Amber attracts a huge number of foreign tourists! Saw Italians$

produce that is served in the accompanying caf.! A-er

Brits$ Germans$ and French as well as Americans and Asians!

shopping$ we stopped for a bowl of soup there$ but I decided

Taking advantage of this army of visitors$ the local people

not to chance the +safe salads, that were o/ered! Back to the

provided countless photo*ops (tips requested): women with

Samode by 0:1# to start packing for the trip home! As always$

pots on their heads or toting adorable children$ men with

the Big Question: Will it all 2t? Enjoyed our last dinner in India

colorful headdresses or playing musical instruments (with and

on the terrace with Rajasthani specialties and King2shers$

without snakes in baskets)! Explored the fort$ again choosing

topped o/ with masala chai! Then early to bed; we have a

to have no guide or audio tour! Most beautiful was the Jai

long trip tomorrow!


Amber Fort


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Anokhi Museum of Hand Printing

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Friday, February 6

Jaipur/In Flight

Our last day in India! Slept in; late breakfast! A little last"minute shopping at Ethnic Arts# a small shop within the hotel compound: gi$s for Mike and Chris# a tikka box# and mala# Hindu prayer beads %&'( beads made of rudraksh seeds found in northern India! Warm conversation with Vinod Soni# who owns the shop with his father! Interesting how so many vocations and occupations pass down from generation to generation here! At noon# we checked out and loaded our bags into the larger car that Veenu had again arranged for us! Harish drove us to the Taj Rambagh Palace for lunch# once the residence of the Maharaja of Jaipur and perhaps the grandest palace hotel in Rajasthan# if not India! Charles and Diana once stayed there! Began with )no sherry in the Polo Bar# followed by lunch in the Rajput Room where we sat under the watchful eye of the Queen Mother*s bejeweled portrait! Spicy Rajasthani dishes and freshly made cardamom ginger ale# followed by pineapple sorbet and a last cup of masala chai! Jake gave me a beautiful pair of gold and garnet earrings as we said good" by to India! And then it was back to reality and the long# laborious process of getting home! Arrived at the airport just a$er +:''# changed into our traveling clothes in the washrooms and waited for our ,:-' PM King)sher .ight to Delhi! As we waited in the terminal# saw lots of military people going through! The female o/cers were wearing uniform saris and I saw a customs o/cial in a white sari with epaulettes pinned on her shoulders! Arrived in Delhi at (:+' and transferred by bus to the international terminal! A long wait and then# o0 to Amsterdam at &:1' AM! 84


Taj Rambagh Palace


Saturday, February 7 An easy 8-hour flight—we were able to sleep the whole

time to get back to the station and return by train to

way—arriving in Amsterdam at 6:00 AM. Had checked

the airport. Just a taste of Amsterdam, but it made me

our luggage through to Chicago; went through

want to come back. At 3:45 PM, took off on KLM 611

passport control and found lockers in which to stow

for another 8-hour flight to Chicago. Again, I was able

our carry-on bags. Train into the city in the darkness.

to sleep, which made the time pass quickly. Arrived at

Chilly rain really cut through us after five weeks of

O’Hare at 5:30 PM. Did not take long to clear

perfect weather. Saw that there was a Saturday market

customs; a taxi back home, arriving just before 8:00

in the Waterlooplein and managed to find the area by

PM. By then, our time was so messed up that we had

streetcar in the darkness. When we saw that it was not

all kinds of energy for unpacking, mail, and laundry. Jet

yet open, stopped in at the cozy Café Waterloo and

lag will be catching up, however, no doubt about that!

had latte and cheese toast made with a crispy baguette and aged Gouda—really tasted good after all of our Indian dishes. Chatted with the other people there; they were obviously regulars. The market, they said, did not open until 11:00 and was not worth waiting for, so after we finished our snack, we took the streetcar to the Rijks Museum. Like so many other museums in the world, the Rijks is undergoing a major renovation and only a small portion was open. However, the greatest masterpieces were on view and we enjoyed seeing the Vermeers and Rembrandts and other masters of the Net herl and s ’ Go l d en Ag e. E x p l o red t he Spiegelkwartier, looking in antiques shops and crossing numerous canals on our way to the Nieuwe Kerk and the palace in the central square. Then it was

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Amsterdam/Chicago


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India Itinerary January 5 to February 7, 2009

JANUARY Monday

! Scheduled one"stop departure #Amsterdam$ on KLM Flights %&' and ()& rebooked on American Airlines because of late arrival of KLM equipment* Depart CHICAGO+ ORD+ Terminal ' #non"stop$ on American Airlines Flight ',' #)))$ at &,:-!+ Seats .'H #aisle$ and .'I #center$ IN FLIGHT

Tuesday

% Arrive NEW DELHI+ DEL+ at '':-/ #on time; &. hours '! minutes 0ight time; over0y Canada+ Norway+ Sweden+ Belarus+ Ukraine+ Russia+ Azerbaijan+Turkmenistan+ Afghanistan and Pakistan$* Airport pickup delayed to /&:'/ on Wednesday* Hotel Corus B".,+ Inner Circle+ Connaught Place NEW DELHI

Wednesday

) Breakfast: Hotel Corus Old Delhi: Jama Masjid Mosque+ Red Fort+ Chandi Chowk bazaar+ Spice Market+ Connaught Place Dinner: home of Drs* Veenu and Rakesh Chopra in Visant Vihar Hotel Corus NEW DELHI #Hotel Corus$

Thursday

( Breakfast: Hotel Corus Qutb Minar complex+ Humayun1s Tomb+ Baha1i Temple+ Victory Square+ President1s Palace+ Parliament and its Library+ government buildings on Rajpath Road+ Janpath Road Dinner: Bukhara #ITC Maurya: Sheraton Starwood$ Hotel Corus NEW DELHI

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Ravi: -- kilometers2'/ miles


Friday

! Breakfast: Hotel Corus Observatory" Nehru Memorial Museum & Library" Gandhi Memorial Museum" Indira Gandhi Memorial Museum" National Museum of India" Cra#s Museum Dinner: Patiala Peg Bar" $!$$ Restaurant %The Imperial& The Imperial Janpath" Connaught Place NEW DELHI

Saturday

Ravi: '()$*

$+ Breakfast: $!$$ Restaurant %The Imperial& Janpath Road" Central Cottage Industries Emporium Dinner: Spice Route %The Imperial& The Imperial NEW DELHI

Sunday

$$ Depart New Delhi %NDLS& on Indian RR Shatabdi Express '++' at +,:$Arrive Agra Cantonment %AGC& at +.:'( %on time& Agra: Taj Mahal" Agra Fort and mosque; Yamuna: I/timad ud0Daulah/s tomb" Chini ka Rauza/s tomb" Rambagh garden1 %Katchpura village& Dinner: Esphahan %Oberoi Amarvilas& ITC Mughal) Sheraton Starwood Taj Ganj AGRA

Monday

Shiv Kumar: $.)$$

$' Breakfast: Taj View Hotel Fatehpur Sikri: Royal Palace" Jami Masjid" Sheik Salim Christi Tomb; Sikandra: Akbar/s Tomb Dinner: Peshwari %ITC Mughal)Sheraton& ITC Mughal) Sheraton Starwood AGRA

Shiv Kumar: $+,),,

91


Tuesday

!" Breakfast: Taj View Hotel Depart Agra Cantonment #AGC$ on Indian RR Shatabdi Express %&&% at &':%' Arrive Gwalior #GWL$ at &(:)) #%& minutes late$ Gwalior: Gwalior Fort* Jain sculptures* Sikh Temple* Jai Vilas Palace Dinner: Silver Saloon #Usha Kiran Palace$ Usha Kiran Palace Jayendragan Lashkar GWALIOR

Wednesday

Ravi: !!+,

!- Breakfast: Usha Kiran Palace Depart Gwalior #GWL$ on Indian RR Shatabdi Express %&&% at &(:-. Arrive Jhansi #JHS$ !&:)) #, minutes late$ Car from Jhansi to Orchha Orchha: Jahangir Mahal; Sheesh Mahal; Raj Mahal Dinner: Hotel Sheesh Mahal Hotel Sheesh Mahal Palace: Jehangir Mahal Road ORCHHA

Thursday

Ravi: %"+!-

!) Breakfast: Hotel Sheesh Mahal Depart Orchha &':!& by car; arrive Khajuraho at !%:-) Khajuraho: Temples of Western Group* Eastern Group and Southern Group Dinner: Hotel Chandela Hotel Chandela Airport Road KHAJURAHO

92

Ravi: %&"+!%,


Friday

!" Breakfast: Hotel Chandela Depart Khajuraho #$:#$ by car; arrive Sanchi at !%:#$; arrive Bhopal !&:&$ Sanchi: Gateways' stupas' temples' pillars Depart Bhopal' BHO' on Jet Airways Flight (W)&!* +ATR,%- at !*:&#. Arrive Indore' IDR' at !(:%$ +$ minutes earlyDinner: Earthen Oven +Fortune Landmark HotelFortune Landmark Hotel Adjoining Meghdoot Gardens INDORE

Saturday

Ravi: &#)/%$%

!, Breakfast: Fortune Landmark Hotel Depart for Mandu at #(:## and returned at !":%$ Mandu: Royal enclave; Jain Temple; Nil Kanth Temple' Rupmati Pavillion; Rewa Kund Group Dinner: Earthen Oven +Fortune Landmark HotelFortune Landmark Hotel INDORE

Sunday

Disrud: %!)/!))

!* Breakfast: in 0ight snack Depart Indore' IDR' on King1sher Airlines Flight IT)!&* +Airbus )%#- at #*:!#. Arrive Mumbai' BOM' at #(:#$ +!$ minutes lateMumbai: Gateway of India' Taj Mahal Palace and Tower' Prince of Wales Museum' Mumbai University' Maidan Oval Lunch: Soona Mahal Dinner: Trishna InterContinental Hotel !)$ Marine Drive MUMBAI

93


Monday

!" Breakfast: InterContinental Mumbai: Reality Tours# Dharavi Slum and Sightseeing Tour $personal% at &':(& and return at !):(&: Dharavi slum* Marine Drive* Mahalaxshmi Dhobi Ghat* Mahalaxshmi Temple* Haji Ali#s Mosque* Bangganga Tank* Chowpatty Beach* Malabar Hill* Tower of Silence* Jain Temple* Crawford Market Lunch: Summer Park InterContinental Hotel MUMBAI

Tuesday

Ganesh; Girash: +,-!(

+& Breakfast: InterContinental Depart on launch to Elephanta at &":!& and return at !,:!. Elephanta: caves ; Mumbai: Merriweather Road* Ahmed Joo/ Bombay Electric* Phillips* Fabindia Lunch: Leopold Caf0; India Tea Centre Dinner: Wasabi $Taj Mahal Palace and Tower% InterContinental Hotel MUMBAI

Wednesday

+! Breakfast: Indian Tea Centre Mumbai: CST-Victoria Terminus* Mutton Road in Chor Bazaar* Oberoi Shopping Center* Colaba shops Dinner: The Dome $InterContinental Hotel% InterContinental Hotel MUMBAI

Thursday

++ Breakfast: Co1ee Day $Mumbai Domestic Airport% Depart Mumbai* BOM* on Jet Airways Flight "W!!, $Boeing ),)%: at &):!./ Arrive Aurangabad* IXU* at &':!. $!. minutes late% Depart Aurangabad at &":!& by car $Classic Travel%; arrive Daulatabad at !&:!.; at Ellora at !+:+&; and return to Aurangabad at !2:(.

94


Daulatabad: fortress! Grishneshwar Temple; Ellora: Kailasa Temple; Buddhist! Hindu and Jain caves; Aurangabad: Kholdabad Tomb! Bibi"qa"Maqbara Mausoleum! Paithanee Saree Center Dinner: Garbah Bar #Ambassador Ajanta$ Ambassador Ajanta Hotel Chikalthana! R"%! Cidco! Jalna Road AURANGABAD Friday

Sulieman Patel: &'(%)

*) Breakfast: Ambassador Ajanta Depart Aurangabad at +':,+ by car; arrive Ajanta at ,,:,-; return to Aurangabad ,.:*+ Ajanta: Caves Dinner: The Society #Ambassador Ajanta$ Ambassador Ajanta Hotel AURANGABAD

Saturday

Sulieman Patel: *+)(,*.

*% Breakfast: Ambassador Ajanta Depart Aurangabad! IXU Jet Airways Flight /W,,% #Boeing .).$ at +':%-0 Arrive Mumbai! BOM! at +/:)+ #,+ minutes late$ Depart Mumbai! BOM! on Jet Airways Flight /W)*. #Boeing .).$ at ,,:++ Arrive Ahmedabad! AMD! at ,*:++ #)+ minutes late$ Ahmedabad: Millowner1s Association Building #Le Corbusier$; Indian Institute of Management #Louis Kahn$! Shreyas Folk Museum #Doshi$! Gumpha Cave #Doshi$! Calico Cra2 Center! Saurashtra! Gamthiwala; Dinner: Agashiye #House of MG$ House of Mangaldas Girdhardas Dr Tankaria Road AHMEDABAD

Mohammed: /(-

95


Sunday

25 Breakfast: House of MG Ahmedabad: Heritage Walking Tour (audio): Sidi Saiyed Mosque; Bhada Fort, Teen Dargaja Gate, Jumma Masjid; Stock Exchange; Mangaldas ni Haveli; Car to Calico Museum of Textiles (tour 10:30 to 12:30) Andalaj Vav Dinner: Agashiye (House of MG) House of Mangaldas Girdhardas AHMEDABAD

Monday

Jonny: 33/20

26 Indian Republic Day Breakfast: House of MG Depart Ahmedabad by car at 08:10, arrive Modhera at 10:25, arrive Patan at 12:40, and Mount Abu at 18:10 Modhera: Sun Temple; Patan: Queen’s Stepwell; Salvi family (patolas) Dinner: Polo Bar and restaurant (Jaipur House) Jaipur House Mount Abu Road MOUNT ABU

Tuesday

Jonny: 333/208

27 Breakfast: Jaipur House Mount Abu: Dilwara temples; Dinner: Polo Bar and restaurant (Jaipur House) Jaipur House MOUNT ABU

Wednesday

28 Breakfast: Jaipur House Depart Mount Abu by car at 08:05, arrive Rankapur at 12:10, arrive Kumbhalgarh at 15:05, arrive Udaipur at 18:40 Rankapur: Jain Temples; Kumbhalgarh: fortress; Udaipur: Pichola Lake

96


Dinner: Jagat Niwas Palace terrace Jagat Niwas Palace !"#!$ Lal Ghat UDAIPUR Thursday

Manoj: "!%&!'(

!) Breakfast: Jagat Niwas Palace Udaipur: Palace and Museum* Anoki* Shiv Niwas Palace Lunch: Fateh Prakash Palace terrace Dinner: Jagat Niwas Palace terrace Jagat Niwas Palace UDAIPUR

Friday

"' Breakfast: Jagat Niwas Palace Reserved King+sher Airlines Flight IT !"",to Jodhpur and Flight IT !"", to Jaisalamer both cancelledDepart Udaipur by car at '.:'$* arrive Jaisalmer at ,.:"'Jaisalmer: Fort Dinner: Trio /Amar Sagar Gate0 Garh Jaisal Hotel On fort* Kotri Para JAISALMER

Saturday

Manoj: $)%&"1"

", Breakfast: Garh Jaisal Hotel Jaisalmer: fortress* Raj Mahal Palace Museum* Jain temples* Patwan Ki Haveli* Laycha Dinner: home of Madan and Puchpa Soni Garh Jaisal Hotel JAISALMER

97


FEBRUARY Sunday

1 Breakfast: Garh Jaisal Hotel Reserved Kingfisher Airlines Flight IT 2332 to Jodhpur cancelled. Departed Jaisalmer by car at 08:15, arrived Jodhpur at 13:30. Jodhpur: Clock Tower, Sardar Market, Mohantal Verhomal Spice Shop Dinner: The Bar, Marwar Restaurant (Taj Hari Mohal) Taj Hari Mahal 5 Residency Road JODHPUR

Monday

Manoj: 308/193

2 Breakfast: Taj Hari Mahal Jodhpur: Meherangarh Fort, Umaid Bhawan Palace Dinner: Trophy Bar, The Pillars (Umaid Bhawan Palace) Taj Hari Mahal JODHPUR

Tuesday

3 Breakfast: Taj Hari Mahal Departed Jaipur by car at 08:00, arrived Jaipur at 14:20 Jaipur: Hawa Mahal, Bazaars Dinner: Samode Haveli Samode Haveli Samode House, Gangapole JAIPUR

Wednesday

4

Biwani: 348/218

Breakfast: Samode Haveli Reserved Kingfisher Airlines Flights IT 2332 to Udaipur and Jaipur cancelled. Jaipur: Hawa Mahal, Jantar Mantar, City Palace and museums, Maniharon Ka Rasta bazaar Dinner: Samode Haveli Samode Haveli JAIPUR

98


Thursday

! Breakfast: Samode Haveli Amber: fortress" Anokhi Museum of Hand Printing; Jaipur: Anokhi store in Kripal Kumbh Lunch: Anokhi Cafe Dinner: Samode Haveli Samode Haveli JAIPUR

Friday

Surendra: #$%&!

' Breakfast: Samode Haveli Jaipur: Taj Rambagh Palace Lunch: Polo Bar" Rajput Room (Taj Rambagh Palace) Depart Jaipur" JAI" on King*sher Airlines Flight IT'+& (Airbus #+$) at &,:,," Arrive Delhi" DEL" &+:+!" Terminal + (-! minutes late) TERMINAL.IN FLIGHT

Saturday

Harish: +-%$

/ Depart: Delhi" DEL" Terminal & (one.stop): KLM Flight 0/& (/-/) at ,+:-,; Seats #,C (aisle) and #,D (aisle) Arrive AMSTERDAM" AMS" at ,!:&!1 (#, minutes early" 0 hours +! minutes 2ight time; over2y Pakistan" Afghanistan" Turkmenistan" Azerbaijan" Russia" Ukraine" Poland" Germany) Amsterdam: Central Station" Waterlooplein 2ea market" Rijksmuseum" Spiegelkwartier" Nine Streets area" Stedelijk Museum exhibit in Nieuwe Kerk" Central Square Breakfast: Waterloo Caf3" Amsterdam Lunch: in 2ight Depart: Amsterdam" AMS" KLM Flight '++ (/-/) at +!:-!; Seats &&B (center) and &&C (aisle)1 Arrive: CHICAGO" ORD" at +/:&, (on time" 0 hours #! minutes 2ight time; #& hours !, minutes total elapsed from Jaipur departure; over2y: United Kingdom" Canada)1 Total driving: #"### kilometers%&",0# miles (+# drivers) Numerous taxis" tuc.tucs and bicycle rickshaws Three train trips Six domestic 2ights (three cancelled en route) 99


Key: Red: Car!Train Purple: Round Trip Blue: Air 100

2009 India 3  

Independent travel in northwestern India

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