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THIS MONTH’S CONTRIBUTORS

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EMMA HASLETT

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EDITOR

Mark Hedley ART DIRECTOR

Matthew Hasteley DEPUTY EDITOR

Jon Hawkins ASSOCIATE EDITOR

Cathy Adams SUB EDITORS

Chris Borg, Oliver Pickup SENIOR DESIGNER

Lucy Phillips DESIGNER

Abigail Robinson JUNIOR DESIGNER

Bianca Stewart EDITORIAL ASSISTANT

Mike Gibson FRONT COVER

David Harrison CONTRIBUTORS

Elio D’Anna, Toby Bateman, Nick Bayly, Emma Haslett, Duncan Madden, Nick Martin, Andrew Morgan, Lindsay Merritt, William Needham, Adam Plainer, Nick Savage, Robin Swithinbank, Joel Windels, Saul Wordsworth PRINTING

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Krista Faist, Emily Buck COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR

Mike Gluckman SALES DIRECTORS

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EXT TIME YOU’RE stuck in the world’s longest Starbucks queue, crammed into a stranger’s sweaty armpit on the tube or being grilled by your boss for that report you definitely said you’d finish last Friday, just imagine not seeing another human for more than 100 days. Sounds pretty nice right about now, huh? But what if I told you that in order to achieve this escape you had to trek 1,795 miles across Antarctica by foot in temperatures as low as -46°C. Sartre may have said “Hell is other people”, but he never walked a day in Ben Saunders’ footsteps. For British explorer Saunders, crossing vast crevasses and skiing solo to the North Pole is just another day at the office. Admittedly, an office very different to yours or mine. This issue, he gives a compelling insight into his latest challenge – retracing and completing Captain Scott’s ill-fated Terra Nova expedition for the first time in a 105-day trek across the least forgiving landscape on Earth. Rather him than me. How did he count those gruelling 105 days? On a British watch made by Bremont. And what did he drive to get to the start line? A British car made by Land Rover. And how did he stay warm while he was out there? Wearing clothes made by a British firm – alongside Saunders’ projects, Mountain Engineering has assisted in every British first ascent of a peak over 8,000 metres, and has been part of more than 175 Everest expeditions. For a little country, we don’t half know how to push the boundaries, both of human endeavour and of creativity. Our annual Made in Britain issue is all about celebrating this. Kick back on a Chesterfield, pour yourself a single malt and enjoy the read. It’s got to be better than being in Antarctica.

Emma Haslett has been writing about business since 2007, just as the financial crisis started. She writes for Management Today, the Week, Stuff, the Times and Time Out. This issue, she meets TSB’s CEO Paul Pester. [p82]

CHRIS BORG Chris Borg has written on news, sport, theatre, music, travel and lifestyle for the Guardian, the Stage, ESPN and others. This issue he writes about motorbikes, art, property, and sunglasses. His interests are pretty eclectic.

ROBIN SWITHINBANK Robin began writing about watches by mistake after being shipped off to Basel and thrown in at the horological deep end. He now edits watch magazine Calibre. This issue, he looks into British brand Bremont. [p41]

DUNCAN MADDEN Madden spends his time dragging body and board along the coastlines of the world in search of empty waves and the perpetual sensation of being on holiday. This issue, he goes to Peru to explore the rain forests of Manu. [p96]

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© Square Up Media Limited 2014. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. All information contained in this magazine is, as far as we are aware, correct at the time of going to press. Square Up Media cannot accept responsibility for errors or inaccuracies in such information. If you submit unsolicited material to us, you automatically grant Square Up Media a licence to publish your submission in whole or in part in all editions of the magazine. All material is sent at your own risk and although every care is taken, neither Square Up Media nor its employees, agents or subcontractors shall be held liable resulting for loss or damage. Square Up Media endeavours to respect the intellectual property of the owners of copyrighted material reproduced herein. If you identify yourself as the copyright holder of material we have wrongly attributed, please contact the office.

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COVER FEATURE 68

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60 . LONDON CALLING COVER FEATURE Five summer looks from five of the capital’s most stylish suit makers. Time to suit up.

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74 . THE HOLE TRUTH Savile Row stalwart Richard Anderson on leaving Huntsman, starting a new business, and the classic British suit. 78 . WILD THING British explorer Ben Saunders on walking in Captain Scott’s ill-fated footsteps. 82 . GET LUCKY We find out why Paul Pester might just be the luckiest bank CEO on the block.

18 . THE EXCHANGE 23 . ART WORK 24 . THE ANALYST 27 . FOOTBALL FOCUS 28 . SOCIAL ANIMALS

EXPOSURE 37 . OBJECTIFY 39 . MY WORLD 41 . PRIME TIME 45 . FESTIVAL STYLE 48 . SUITS 51 . CROSS-BODY BAGS 56 . BRITISH SPEEDWAY

ASSETS 89 . MOTORBIKES 89 . CARS 96 . TRAVEL

107 . FOOD & DRINK 111 . GOLF

HOLDINGS 122 . INTERIOR DESIGN 127 . PROPERTY: LONDON 128 . PROPERTY: IBIZA

END PLAY 139 . CITY OF LONDON FEST 141 . EVENTS 143 . GALLERY 146 . GO THE EXTRA MILE

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LEAD IMAGE: Design and embroidery by Craig Murphy; PHOTOGRAPH: by David Harrison

68 . MADE IN BRITAIN We profile some of the country’s finest brands designing and creating their wares on our shores. It’ll make you proud.

ISSUE 91

FEATURES

PORTFOLIO


F RO M T H E E A RT H S P R I N G S A N E W F R E S H N E S S

EAU TRÈS FRAÎCHE

Terredhermes.com


PORTFOLIO

THE EXCHANGE ART WORK THE ANALYST FUNDING FOOTBALL SOCIAL ANIMALS

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CARTOON GOOD LOOKS . 023 IMAGE by Rich Simmons courtesy of Imitate Modern


THE EXCHANGE

LONDON

100

THINGS TO DO

PwC confirmed last month what we already knew: that London is the best city in the world. “An economic powerhouse” and “an urban gateway” were some of the terms lavished on it, beating New York, Paris and Hong Kong. So there, rest of the world.

AFTER THE CITY

WORDS Saul Wordsworth

#66 HYPNOTIST

▽ LOOK INTO my column, look into my column, the column, the column – not around the column – into the column. This column is the funniest thing you’ve ever read. You’ll tell everyone you know about it, and you’ll send me £10,000 in used notes first thing tomorrow. Three, two, one… you’re back in the room. Hypnosis is defined as the psychological state of being on stage pretending to be a chicken. A hypnotised person is said to do anything they are told to, from eating the hottest curry to accompanying Mark Carney on a world cruise. The word ‘hypnosis’ comes from the Greek ὕπνωσις, meaning ‘gullible’. Some of us are more hypnotisable than others. Amongst society’s most tranceable are the elderly, the young, the stupid and the asleep. If you plan to establish yourself as a hypnotist, you’ll require an area of expertise. This could be anything from helping people to start smoking to teaching shoe-shop owners how to be less afraid of shoes (some people have difficult lives). Using hypnosis in a therapeutic environment can be both rewarding and lucrative. While in a hypnotised state, you can charge your client anything you like. That would be wrong, of course, and I’m not suggesting you do it. But you could. You shouldn’t though. OK then, it’s up to you. Next, pick a trigger word or phrase to induce hypnosis (“you are feeling very sleepy”/“hand me your wallet”/“shamon!” would all suffice). Buy a job lot of hot mustard for people to eat on stage or get an absorbent sofa for therapeutic use (hypnotised people dribble a lot). Source a pocket watch. Find a reliable lawyer. You’re ready. Look into my column, look into my column – not around the column – into the column. Now, about that £10,000… ■

A N T O N I O H O R TA - O S O R I O

In a flash of honesty, it emerged last month at the annual Chelsea Flower Show that Lloyds Banking Group boss Antonio Horta-Osorio is no keen horticulturist. He told the Standard he hates gardening. We’re sure there’s a joke about green shoots somewhere there.

JORDAN BELFORT

The real wolf of Wall Street’s motivational speaking career is going so well that he’s expecting profits this year to top his best years as a crooked stockbroker. He’s eyeing $100m, although $50m will go back to wronged investors. Don’t spend it all at once…

SALESFORCE TOWER

This month’s boring news alert: Heron Tower is now to be known as Salesforce Tower, following a deal with the US cloud giant. Not that we thought a tower sharing the same name as a large beaked water bird was that sexy, but Salesforce? We despair.

ABACUS

We’ll be holding a two-minute silence for ultimate City bar Abacus, which shut its doors on Cornhill at the end of April. A new venue, called Forge, is set to rise from its ashes and open in June. As long as they serve 2-4-1 cocktails and meat platters, we’ll be happy.

U N E X P L A I N E D H AT C H B A C K

The dark green hatchback left parked in the middle of a busy junction near Bank last month caused more than confusion when it turned into a reported bomb scare. Had Mark Carney missed his tube train to work? Answers on a parking ticket, please.

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ILLUSTRATION OF ‘MILES’ by Jamel Akib, PHOTOGRAPH by Bill Bridges//Time Life Pictures/Getty Images

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THE CITY INDEX


PORTFOLIO

WISE G U I D E S WORDS by Nick Martin, founder, Wine Owners

#02 HOW TO INVEST IN WINE PLAY THE LONG GAME While wine is considered relatively high risk thanks to a lack of regulation and pockets of volatility, long-term returns can be very good. Indeed, it’s difficult to make an argument against wine in favour of equities based on volatility alone. Comparing the performance of the FTSE 100 to the Wine Owners benchmark index (WO 150) shows the top wines performing well over the past seven years, assuming a diverse range of holdings. Think of wine as a minimum four or five-year investment – just like anything else, it’ll have periods where it performs and those when it doesn’t, so don’t panic if your stock takes a dip. TAKE A PORTFOLIO APPROACH Build a diversified portfolio of fine wine – spread your bets, because fine wine is not one homogeneous market. A portfolio’s core should include Bordeaux and Burgundy, and might include some top Italians for good measure. Your own preferences or interests should, quite rightly, influence your portfolio, too. So, for example, if you are familiar with top Californian wines, you might choose to buy Harlan, Phelps, Opus One, and so on. Collectors who follow certain wines and buy consistently each year upon their first release from trusted merchants will build up precious allocations that can be invaluable. CONSIDER FUNDS CAREFULLY The wine investment market for ‘collectives’ is small as a percentage of the whole – £120m goes into funds in the UK of a total fine wine market of about £1bn. Only a few are FCA-regulated (for example Wine Source) and some operate EIS funds that provide tax breaks (Vindemnia, WIF). Ensure the fund’s projected returns are realistic; be aware of the fund management charges; and understand the differences in the way EIS funds are managed in comparison with non-qualifying ones – there are pros and cons to each model. Some funds have run into trouble, with those problems leaving investors out of pocket.

CITY TRIVIA

The first public flushing toilet was funded through the philanthropy of Lord Mayor Dick Whittington to dispose of the waste from hundreds of street traders around the north side of Southwark Bridge.

WHAT THEY DID AFTER THE CITY...

ESCAPE A RT I S T #40 MICHAEL WAINWRIGHT

▽ BEFORE JOINING the family business, Boodles, I worked for KPMG as a chartered accountant for five years. While fine jewellery may be a world apart from chartered accountancy, my time at KPMG taught me a great deal about business. Working in finance, I saw how many differently sized companies operated, from relatively small charities to British Aerospace (where I spent many months). It gave me a great grasp of profit and loss, and the commercial reading of a balance sheet. When it’s your own money, though, you do tend to look a bit harder. I joined Boodles, working alongside my brother Nicholas, in 1984, and have seen the growth of the company from a regional county jeweller to the brand that it is today. Now joined also by my nephews Jody and James, I am lucky to work in a family business where we all get along – some are not so fortunate. It is a great feeling to know that the other man is really batting for you and the staff and customers – for better or for worse – know you are going to be there for ever. ■ Boodles’ flagship showroom can be found on London’s Bond Street. However, for City shoppers Boodles Royal Exchange may be more convenient. For more info: 020 7283 7284 ; boodles.com

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PORTFOLIO

COMPETITION

THE EXCHANGE

BONUS B U STER AGILITY SAIETTA R, £16,770

HOW WILL YOU SPEND YOURS?

WORDS Chris Borg

If Judge Dredd ever decided that the time was right for him to go out and buy an electric motorbike, it would – almost definitely – look something like this one. The Agility Saietta R is unlike any other bike you’ve seen, with its battery packs hidden away under the curving, gleaming bodywork that gives it an impressively futuristic appearance. It packs plenty of punch, too, quietly zooming from 0-60mph in just under four seconds. That power and acceleration is matched by its handling, which is sharp and responsive, and it’s nothing if not

economical to run. The costs work out at less than 50p for 100 miles meaning you’ll never want – or need – to visit a petrol station again. It has a range of 112 miles, including a 12-mile reserve, before you need to shell out another – gasp – 50p on recharging. With 120 newton metres of torque, the bike glides along in a smooth near-silence, unlike the flatulent beasts your more petrolheaded friends might be riding. So it’s just you, the open road and the Agility Saietta R, together in electric dreams. ■ For more info, see agilitymotors.com

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020

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COMIC by Modern Toss, PHOTOGRAPH by Thomas Lovelock /Sports Illustrated/Getty Images)

▽ GLENMORANGIE HAS joined forces with the luxury gentleman’s tailor Thomas Pink to create a golf experience and selection of ‘Unnecessarily Well Made’ gifts that you can enjoy with your dad this Father’s Day. We’re offering one square mile reader and their father the opportunity to go to this year’s British Open Championship at Royal Liverpool, Hoylake, in July. You and your old man will enjoy a full day of watching worldclass golf – and, what’s more, you’ll get a VIP private coaching session to work on your swing with British golfing legend Tony Jacklin. And to ensure that you’re suitably accessorised for the occasion, you’ll receive a stylish limited edition Thomas Pink tie and matching socks, designed exclusively to celebrate Glenmorangie being the Spirit of the Open. You can give them to your dad – or keep schtum and keep them for yourself. To round things off, you’ll get a bottle of world-class Glenmorangie Original Single Malt whisky to enjoy a dram of together after the excitement of the golf. ■


SUMMER BEGINS at

London CANARY WHARF JUBILEE PLACE | ONE NEW CHANGE | REGENT STREET | COVENT GARDEN BRENT CROSS | KINGS ROAD | WESTFIELD LONDON | BATH | TRAFFORD CENTRE | Paris | Milan BANANAREPUBLIC.CO.UK


PORTFOLIO

➤ Imitate Modern ➤

— By Chris Borg —

HERO WORSHIP We’re all used to revelling in the triumphs of superheroes – but what might these characters be like on the inside? Do they ever get home from a hard day’s saving the world and wonder what might be going wrong in their lives (the sort of thing we do, only without having saved the world)? British artist Rich Simmons explores this idea in new show Kryptonite, which portrays the sort of dilemmas that heroes both super and everyday might encounter, whether those are emotional, romantic or sexual (and who knows, maybe Wonder Woman and Batman really would make a thoroughly lovely couple). “We all have the ability to be a hero to someone in life,” Simmons says. “You don’t need special powers to be a hero.” Super, man. ■

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ARTWORK

WONDER STUFF

13 June-12 July; Imitate Modern, 27a Devonshire Street, London, W1G 6PN

imitatemodern.com

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PORTFOLIO

➤ This month ➤

SOCKS APPEAL — By James Davis —

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ANALYST

SOCKS AND THE CITY There are few places on earth more English than Peper Harow. A tiny Surrey village, it was mentioned in the Domesday Book of 1086 and was the setting for the first recorded game of cricket ever to use the rules as we know them today. But it’s also the home of something much newer. Peper Harow, founded in 2012, makes hand-finished socks, each one bolder and more eccentric than the next. If you want to stand out from the crowd, think about what you’re standing in. ■

peperharowlondon.com

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ADVERTISEMENT

Game changer

The new Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV.

I

f you believe the hype, every new car is a game changer. A degree of scepticism about yet another worldbeater is therefore understandable. Don’t ignore the Outlander PHEV, though. This one really is a game changer.

A few Outlander PHEV facts: Price: from £28,249 (post-grant) Benefit in Kind tax rate: 5% Vehicle Excise Duty: £0 London Congestion Charging: £0 CO2 emissions: 44g/km Pure EV range: 32 miles Pure EV + Petrol range: 514 miles They look like stats for a tiny city car ten years in the future, but the Outlander PHEV achieves these figures now, in 2014. And it does so as a lavishly-equipped SUV with no restrictions on interior or boot space. For company car userchoosers, the benefits of running an Outlander PHEV are startling. BIK and fuel card tax ratings are just 5% rather than the expected 30%-plus for equivalent diesel SUVs. For any driver, Outlander PHEV fuel consumption is incredible. The official EU figure is 148mpg, but if your daily journey is less than 32 miles it could be considerably more. Longer journeys like motorway trips can still return impressive figures. Unlike the average electric vehicle, there’s no danger of ‘running out of juice’ as long as you’ve got some petrol in the tank, and this is the only SUV with ‘£0’ on the tax disc. Here, at last, is a hybrid car that really does offer ultra-cheap motoring without compromise to comfort, practicality or performance – and without the dreaded EV ‘range anxiety’.

*Subject to survey

How does it do it? The PHEV was designed from the outset to run on electric power. That’s why, unlike just about every other EV, it has uninterrupted cabin and boot space. Its 463-litre cargo volume is almost identical to the diesel Outlander’s. There’s a conventional engine up front, a refined, quiet and lightweight 2.0-litre petrol unit, but after that everything changes. The engine’s main role is not to drive the car, but a generator. This charges an array of underfloor batteries powering two direct-drive electric motors: one on the front wheels, the other on the back. As long as there’s sufficient charge in the batteries, the electric motors will work alone at speeds up to 75mph. If the engine does need to kick in to top up the batteries, it will, but the transition between electric and petrol is all but undetectable. No allowances need to be made to your driving style: the car will always choose the most efficient mode. Generally, that will be EV mode at lower speeds, and electric motors supported by the engine at higher speeds. You can dial up a higher rate of battery regeneration by flipping a steering wheel paddle to recoup more power during deceleration, which brings the bonus of reducing brake wear. In every other respect, driving a PHEV is exactly like driving a normal SUV, albeit a very comfortable, safe (5-star Euro NCAP rated) and powerful one. From 0-60mph it’s quicker than the already rapid 2.2 diesel auto Outlander, with the instant shove of electric power. You can charge the car by plugging it into a highspeed charger (installed for free* at your house by British Gas), or let it look after its own charging through normal driving. If you’re going somewhere where the ability to run on EV power would be useful, you can charge the batteries to 80% capacity in 30 minutes just by letting the engine idle. You can even remotely control the charging process (and pre-heat or pre-cool the vehicle) through a free-to-download iOS or Android app.

Outlander PHEV range fuel consumption in mpg (ltrs/100km): Full Battery Charge: infinite, Depleted Battery Charge: 48mpg (5.9), Weighted Average: 148mpg (1.9), CO2 Emissions: 44 g/km.

From a full charge, which takes 3-4 hours from zero (using cheap Economy 7 electricity if you do it overnight), the Outlander PHEV will run for up to 32 miles on electric power alone. So, if your total daily journey is less than 30 miles (which most are) you could find yourself never using the PHEV’s petrol engine. If you are an ‘electric-only’ user, the engine stays in good health by starting itself up every now and then. The best thing about this extraordinary machine is just how ordinary it is in everyday use. Being a Mitsubishi, it’s a proper offroader running a Super-All Wheel Control (S-AWC) permanent 4WD system with a lock mode for the really gooey stuff. The PHEV handles surprisingly well too, thanks in part to the batteries’ underfloor location lowering its centre of gravity. Towing capacity is an impressive 1500kg. You won’t have to search out specialists to service it, as you do for many other EVs. Any Mitsubishi dealer can deal with it. The price. Electric vehicles and hybrids are expensive, even after you take into account the Government’s £5000 Plug-In Car Grant but the Outlander PHEV is very different. It was designed from day one to be an EV, so there’s no hybrid price premium. Higher-specified GX4h and GX4hs versions are also available, but let’s look at the GX3h version. The cost of a GX3-spec diesel Outlander 2.2 DI-D Auto is £28,249. After the Government grant, the cost of the equivalent GX3h PHEV – with automatic gearbox, remote-controlled keyless entry, leather-wrapped steering wheel and gear knob, cruise control, dualzone climate control, automatic headlights and wipers, electric windows, 18-inch alloy wheels, roof rails, rear privacy glass, USB port, iPod compatibility and Bluetooth connection – is also £28,249. Which may very well be the most exciting motoring news of the year, if not the decade.

Pop in and see your local dealer for more information or visit

www.mitsubishi-cars.co.uk


ETS TICK LE A ON S ! NOW

The World’s Greatest Restaurant Festival 18 - 22 June 2014 Regent’s Park Indulge in incredible dishes from... Ametsa with Arzak Instruction Andre Garrett at Cliveden House Assado Avenue Bar Boulud Barbecoa Bleeding Heart Chop Shop Blue Elephant Club Gascon Duck & Waffle Flesh & Buns Gaucho House of Ho L’Anima L’Autre Pied Le Gavroche Mango Tree Maze Meatliquor Peyote Roka Rosa’s Sake No Hana Salt Yard Shake Shack Sixtyone Spice Market Suda Sushisamba Tamarind Tartufo Thai Rice Thai Tho Theo Randall at The InterContinental The Begging Bowl The Truscott Arms Yauatcha 5* Restaurant - Action Against Hunger

40 Top Restaurants

Masterclasses

Boutique Food Market

Worldclass Chefs

Book tickets at london.tastefestivals.com or call 0871 230 7132


PORTFOLIO

➤ This month ➤

AN OWN GOAL? — By Adam Plainer, William Needham and Lindsay Merritt —

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ILLUSTRATION by Jamel Akib

ITH THE 2014 FIFA World Cup just around the corner and an exciting domestic season complete, conversations are often dominated by football. However, over recent years, discussions about the game have not been restricted to what happens on the pitch. Club takeovers by international entrepreneurs and oligarchs regularly fill the front, back and financial pages of the papers. But is the beautiful game a beautiful investment or an expensive hobby? Activity at the beginning of 2014 suggests that hedge funds do not have high hopes for the financial health of the sport. Odey Asset Management reportedly took a short position on Manchester United worth $22m, joined by Tremblant Capital who also shorted 0.8% of the club’s stock in the expectation that its rising share price would be unsustainable. United’s recent form, and the sacking of manager David Moyes, make this bet look a very attractive one.  That is not to say that the loss of Sir Alex Ferguson and a disappointing campaign mean it’s all over at Old Trafford. Baron Capital, which has a 2.5% stake in the club alongside its largest shareholder, the Glazer family, is reported to be taking a more positive view. And despite the criticism levelled at the Glazers by fans for burdening United with debt, the club’s financial results for the six months ending 31 December 2013 showed record revenues thanks to both a number of lucrative sponsorship deals and broadcasting revenues. Other fund investments include KKR’s acquisition of a 10% stake in German club Hertha Berlin, investment firm GFH Capital’s ownership of Leeds United, SISU Capital’s ownership of Coventry City and fund manager James Pallotta’s plans to build a 52,000-seat stadium for Roma. Meanwhile, some fund managers jetting to Rio might be observing players’ performances closely if, like Doyen Capital, they are considering striking deals with European teams for a share of individual footballers’ future transfer fees and image rights (a practice now banned by the Premier League).

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Recent developments appear to support a cautious approach: Queens Park Rangers, backed by high-profile entrepreneurs, revealed net debt of £177.1m and pre-tax losses of £64.5m. Meanwhile, back in the Premier League, Liverpool’s pretax losses are reported to have grown to £49.9m, showing that success on the pitch does not necessarily translate into instant financial reward. In recent years, football has seen several clubs go into insolvency proceedings, with high-profile examples including Portsmouth and Rangers. In the English game, the apparent difficulty in maintaining the financial viability of even the most successful clubs can be explained in part by the unique rules imposed on them. Under Premier League rules, clubs subject to or suffering insolvency face a nine-point deduction (10 in the Football League), meaning clubs in difficulties cannot rely on a good season on the pitch to pull them out of trouble. The controversial ‘football creditors’ rule, which gives priority to creditors such as players, managers, other club employees and the league itself – entitling them to be paid in full despite otherwise ranking as general unsecured creditors – creates issues for other creditors. Clubs that go into administration are only able to renew their Premier League membership if they exit administration by way of a company voluntary arrangement which ensures that football creditors are paid in full, often by compromising other creditors. This effectively limits the restructuring options available and may be a deterrent for lenders and investors when clubs are looking to refinance. In certain instances, it may be possible for a club to avoid a points deduction by restructuring at the holding company level and thereby technically avoiding putting the club itself into administration, but this would require a new investment of capital. For those looking to make a clean break from the minefield of rules, an outright sale is not necessarily easy,

as GFH Capital learned when prospective buyer Massimo Cellino became the first to be disqualified under the Football League’s ownership test after his initial attempt to buy Leeds in March 2014 (a decision now successfully appealed against). Meanwhile, in order to comply with UEFA’s Financial Fair Play (FFP) regulations, clubs are subject to a maximum loss over the course of two seasons. From the 2013-14 season, clubs must ensure they break even to avoid sanctions ranging from warnings to being stripped of titles and awards. Those clubs reported to be in danger of breaching FFP include Manchester City and Paris Saint-Germain. So while football fever will no doubt take over the City this summer, fund managers should note that investing in football is far from an easy game. Like any sport it can be unpredictable, and history shows that investment does not guarantee glory. It remains to be seen whether many funds will commit to investing in anything more than minority stakes or corporate boxes. ■ Plainer, Needham and Merritt work for Weil, Gotshal & Manges’ international restructuring practice, which has advised on the restructuring of a number of notable football clubs.

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PORTFOLIO

➤ This month ➤

SOCIAL ANIMALS — By Joel Windels —

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HILE VIRTUALLY ALL ORGANISATIONS

are touting themselves as being more ‘social’ than their contemporaries, the financial sector – with its laboured rules and regulations – has been one of the last to shout out. But at a time when barely a day goes by without someone like me going on about how beneficial social media can be to a business, the onus is on financial services companies to up their game and kick-start effective social business processes. Many companies have, at least, taken their first steps. But what next? After you have set up a basic listen and respond model, how do you move your activities up a notch? Here, we outline five major social media monitoring focus areas for financial services companies, along with some helpful tips on taking social media activity to the next level.

CAMPAIGN MEASUREMENT Financial services corporations spend billions on marketing each year, and need to prove the return on their their investments. Enter social media, where broad metrics like such as sentiment, and reach and

conversation volume can be used to show the impact of marketing campaigns. But shouldn’t you be aiming for better than just broad? Sure, a campaign may stimulate online engagement – but can you differentiate between superficial engagement and profitable impact? First, establish the objectives of your campaigns and use social metrics to monitor how successfully they have been met. Second, categorise your social data to gain deeper understanding of the performance of each marketing initiative. Third, use Boolean operators to dissect the meaning behind the response to your campaigns, including intent to purchase.

CUSTOMER SERVICE The domination of Facebook and Twitter as customer query channels shows no sign of abating, and many financial services companies are already adapting to this. But it can be a a real headache to maintain service levels when dealing with a flood of customer enquiries and strike a balance between a quick and personal response – and do it all within legislative boundaries. So how do you make your enquiry process a cut above? The key is to empower your team to assign and respond in real time.

REPUTATION MANAGEMENT

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RESEARCH Social media is a brilliant channel for gaining an understanding of what the marketplace thinks of you. Tracking both the awareness levels around and the perception of each of your company’s products, helps you tweak less popular or well-known ones to ensure that they can meet customers’ expectations and tastes. Further in-depth research into market demography, comparisons with competitors, and regional variances can reveal even more to help you optimise the ways in which you create and market services. Create targeted queries so that you can accurately comprehend what is being said about specific products. Use metadata, operators and filters in order to isolate conversation by location, platform, demographics and other criteria.

COMMAND CENTRES If you’ve got it, flaunt it. In a similar way to displaying stock prices and other fiscal data in the lobby of your organisation’s offices to indicate its health, social media command centres – multi-screen display systems – are being deployed to showcase social media results that extend beyond the marketing and customer service teams. These serve to internally broadcast the success of campaigns or events in real time, can help with timely crisis management, and can publicly track and compare key competitors’ online presence – giving very one from senior executives to junior staff a better insight into online public opinion. ■ Joel is marketing manager for EMEA at Brandwatch, a social media monitoring tool.

squaremile.com

ILLUSTRATION by Jamel Akib

Maintaining a positive image has always been a tall order for financial brands. Luckily, with the right research, social media can be an excellent reputation management tool, allowing companies to see exactly what consumers think of them and react quickly to pre-empt crises. Here, monitoring Facebook and Twitter is not enough – there are dozens of influential forums (such as MoneySavingExpert), that disgruntled customers flock to for peer opinions, and you can’t afford to overlook these. Simply watching these forums is important, but there is also a real

opportunity to take action. Targeting such forums with considered (and compliant) engagement strategies could return hugely positive benefits for your organisation. Monitor the web for specific conversations about your brand and associated services – and set up monitoring alerts to trigger when mentions spike. If there is a potential crisis, you must have a process that allows for instant reaction.


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EXPOSURE

SUNGLASSES MY WORLD WATCHES SUITS BAGS

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EXPOSURE

BRANCHING OUT

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Back in the summer of 2012, four Scots had an entrepreneurial thought – why not do something different with sunglasses design? The result was Finlay & Co. The idea of using wood to manufacture shades was so successful that its unisex glasses are now sold in 15 countries. This year saw them named ‘Accessory Brand of the Year’ at the Scottish Fashion Awards and selected by Vogue Italy for Vogue Talent Corner.

STYLE SUNGLASSES

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HAVE YOU GOT WOOD?

Fancy a pair of Wayfarers but want something that stands out from the crowd? British company Finlay & Co. makes its sunnies from sustainably managed hardwoods

MADE IN B R I TA I N

GREAT AND GRAIN Every pair of Finlay & Co sunglasses is unique, as the grain of each piece of wood used for making the frames is different to the next – so you can enjoy the knowledge that your new shades really are a one-off. Pictured here is the Ledbury, made from walnut (£140).

finlayandco.com



EXPOSURE

MY WORLD JEROME GRIFFITH

THE BAG MAN Tumi CEO Jerome Griffith knows good luggage when he sees it. He speaks to CATHY ADAMS about Tumi’s future plans

T

HE LUXURY TRAVEL goods brand might now be based in New Jersey, but Tumi’s roots are firmly in Latin America. Founded in 1975, Tumi’s name comes from a Peruvian god, following founder Charlie Clifford’s stint in the Peru Peace Corps. The company, which listed in New York in 2012, now takes a far more global outlook, and has just opened its flagship London store on Regent Street. Jerome Griffith, who became CEO in 2009, talks to square mile about Tumi’s new range, and what he always packs when he goes away… ON THE HERITAGE OF THE BRAND Tumi’s origins lie in importing leather bags from South America. In 1983, in an effort to differentiate ourselves from other importers, we pioneered the commercial use of militarygrade ballistic Nylon. Tumi continues to innovate: introducing new designs, technologies and materials. Although Peru is not a major influence on our designs now, you might occasionally spot some Peruvian iconography in our products.

PHOTOGRAPH by Bryan Derballa

BAGS OF STYLE: Tumi’s new flagship London store on Regent Street uses the new Madison design concept, already introduced in stores in New York and Paris. The 2,400 sq ft store, spread over two levels, was conceived by award-winning New York-based designer Dror Benshetrit.

ON GROWTH PLANS

ON NEW DESIGNS

Tumi is still in the early stages of international growth, and recent research studies indicating that the global luxury goods sector is expected to continue to grow is encouraging. We are a growing company: we see the opportunity to triple our store count globally over the long term. Additionally, being a public company gives us additional credibility with our business partners, suppliers and landlords, and we’re equated with the best brands in the world. It’s also helped consumers become more aware of us.

We want to create designs that provide stylised solutions for the global citizen who is always on the move, such as the CFX range, which hits stores this autumn. It’s our newest premium collection of travel, day bag and small accessories made from soft carbon fibre, making the overall look both slick and stylish. We also proactively seek new design partners, such as the Jonathan Adler Travels with Tumi collection. The beauty of the company is there’s always the opportunity to innovate.

ON THE NEW FLAGSHIP LONDON STORE

I have different bags for different trips – whether it’s overnight, for three days or for three weeks. You’ll usually find me using our Alpha 2 Continental carry on or one of our 24” Tegralite cases. I always use our little packing cubes: I got into them because someone here asked me to demonstrate how I packed, and I was a mess. I also carry a little luck in the form of three Hermès dice, a gift from my wife. ■

ON HIS PACKING ROUTINES With the recent addition of Regent Street, we now have four stores in the UK, and have seen great excitement for the brand here. The flagship store – which opened with the new Madison design concept, a collaboration with award-winning designer Dror Benshetrit – will also serve to showcase the brand to the broader EMEA region, where we’re looking to continue growth over the next few years.

For more information, see tumi.com

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EXPOSURE

WATCHES BREMONT

STYLE WITH ALTITUDE Bremont’s aviation-themed watches have been creating a stir since the company took off back in 2007 – and the latest of them lives up to its reputation for outdoing more established rivals, says ROBIN SWITHINBANK

O

N THE WHOLE, when it comes to this

column it is I who carefully, bravely and with no small amount of discernment shoulders the responsibility for selecting a watch. Don’t think of this as a burden, dear reader. It is a duty of care that I assume willingly, understanding all too well the improvement the passing on of horological wisdom can bring to someone’s life. But on occasion, your square mile editorial team get ideas of their own. Of course they do. They are people of (largely) unquestionable taste, and they do like a watch. And from time to time we agree, which is how it has come to pass that I have the pleasure of bringing you Bremont’s latest flyboy special, the properly man-worthy and probably bombproof MBIII. Now, Bremont – purveyor of luxury watches hailing from Henley-on-Thames and proprietor of handsome boutiques in Mayfair and The Royal Exchange – is unlikely to be an unknown name to even the most part time of watch enthusiasts. In the astonishingly short time since Bremont brought its first watch in to land in 2007, it has soared above many of its far more established competitors with a collection of very wearable, mostly aviationthemed timepieces that are also, to use its own words, “tested beyond endurance”. Some of the finest – and the most severely tested – of these are in the MB series. MB stands for Martin Baker, the British company that has been fitting ejector seats into fighter planes for more than six decades. The first of these watches, the MBI, arrived in 2009 and has only ever been available to pilots who have used one of those ejector seats, which means that, at the time of writing, there is a grand total of 7,441 eligible MBI customers. Bremont also released a civilian version,

Bremont has soared above many competitors with a collection of timepieces that are ‘tested beyond endurance’ squaremile.com

TOUGH TIME: The MBIII has undergone the same rigorous testing schedule as its two predecessors, with its ordeal including shock, vibration and temperature tests.

the MBII. Like the MBI, it was built and tested to withstand the rather severe shock of being blasted out of an aircraft cockpit and was also kitted out with a Faraday cage, meaning it was capable of fending off the attentions of the magnetic fields that are found under the canopy of a military-grade flying machine. Its case was hardened to 2,000 Vickers (very hard – about three times normal stainless steel), and its chronometer-certified movement yielded three hands and a day-date display. A second crown activated an inner rotating bezel (very useful for timing stuff), while a

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final flourish came in the form of a coloured aluminium barrel (the side of the case). But one thing it didn’t have was a second time zone – much coveted by pilots, who have a tendency to skip between them with alarming speed. Enter the MBIII and its GMT function, adjustable via the crown or by using the second crown to activate the inner rotating bezel’s 24-hour scale. Bremont has added a bronze barrel option to the line-up, but you can also have it in anthracite or the MB’s iconic orange. Either way, it’s a bona fide classic. ■ £3,995; for more information, see bremont.com

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EXPOSURE

WATCHES AUDEMARS PIGUET

OFFSHORE ACCOUNT

ANDREW MORGAN , editor of The Watch Magazine, is talking rubber clad. No, not that – he’s focusing

on the lasting merits of the soon to be relaunched Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Rubber Clad

20000

128% Look to pay a premium of around 128% for a new 44mm Royal Oak offshore chronograph

16000

THE RUBBER CLAD IS DISCONTINUED

14000

PRE-OWNED VALUES STABILISE AS DISCONTINUATION IS ANNOUNCED

12000 10000 8000

PRE-OWNED VALUES TRACK RISE IN RRP

6000 4000 2005

2006

2007

2008

2009

2010

2011

2012

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2014

YEAR

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In 1972, Audemars Piguet did the unthinkable – it sold a steel watch with an out -there design for ten times the price of the Rolex Submariner. But this opening gambit paid off and the watch evolved into the Royal Oak Offshore, one of the most sought-after timepieces among the financial elite. The Rubber Clad, distinguishable by its rubber bezel, is a popular variant. It was recently discontinued but a new version is due – and that throws up an interesting question: should you buy one now, or wait for the new one? Audemars Piguet’s solid residuals mean the choice is yours. The discrepancy between new and pre-owned prices may appear large, but much of it is accounted for by dealer discounts. Once the Rubber Clad has reached the used market, prices stay firm, as they have done through the years. Because it is a popular watch, the advent of a new model shouldn’t dent its resale value much (if at all). But one thing that may dent is the rubber bezel itself, so watch out – it’s not cheap to replace. ■

18000

VALUE £

STURDY OAK

AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE 25940SK.OO.D002CA RRP AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE 25940SK.OO.D002CA PRE-OWNED SALES PRICE

For more prices and more information, see

watchfinder.co.uk

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EXPOSURE

STYLE FESTIVALS

PEACE OUT

Looking good at a festival is tough, says TOBY BATEMAN – but following these rules will increase your chances STYLE AND FESTIVALS are old adversaries. The likelihood is that you’ll be sleeping in a tent, which is hopefully the closest you’ll ever come to living in a bin. Gone are your home comforts. Your mirror is the foil in a cigarette carton. Your bathtub is a wet wipe. And then there’s the weather. The weather hates you. If it wasn’t so good at creating the finelytuned ecosystems that sustain all life on earth, we’d abolish it. But we can’t. Let’s face it, the chances of you looking good are slim – so it’s better to follow the rules. Festival style is a heady blend of the untamed and the functional, the beautiful and the necessary.

MASTER THE ART OF CAMOUFLAGE Successful festival dressing is largely about disguise. The trick is to create a character, a sun-kissed alter ego who can dance outside at one in the afternoon without feeling the crippling weight of self-consciousness. Embrace largesse. That’s not to say that you need to approach it as though you’re RuPaul at Rio Carnival – but unless you go bold on colours and accessories at a festival you’re going to look like a grumpy mime artist trapped in an episode of Teletubbies.

BE COOL You must remember the festival fundamentals. Sunglasses and a hat that can cover the eyes – a Hartford trilby or Paul Smith Panama, say, are (almost) more essential than water. Whatever you do, don’t combine said hat with a vest and a jeer. This is the most snoring of festival uniforms and portrays the exact opposite of what those men who do adopt it are so desperately seeking: cool.

job – and it is never too warm for underwear. The weather can be styled out. Ponchos, trench foot or arrest, however, cannot.

(NOT) WITH THE BAND Certain looks are guaranteed to be seen at any festival the world over. They form clusters, much as acne does. There will always be women who are slavishly devoted to the Kate Moss/Sienna Miller boho-chic of Glastonbury 2001-2005, although they will invariably bear a closer resemblance to inexpensive lampshades. Those men who opt to dress as though they’re in a band that’s playing the festival are equally criminal. Under no circumstances attempt this. The reason that Kings of Leon, for example, are able to dress in the way they do at festivals is because they get ferried around in golf carts and helicopters. In normal situations even they look ridiculous. Remember: if it says The Ramones on your T-shirt, you’d better have been in them.

FANCY DRESS Many festivals now demand some level of fancy dress from their clientele. It’s not for us to offer advice on whether or not you should get into the spirit of things, but consider the following: in the movies, the guy in the Batman costume never has to use the urinal. Also, don’t forget that your three-year-old nephew may enjoy it for a while when you pretend to be Bob the Builder – but even he loses interest in that after five minutes.

AVOID ADULT ROMPER SUIT NEVER GIVE UP It’s only rain. Don’t panic like everyone else. OK, so sartorially it is a tricky situation – nobody ever wore a transparent plastic poncho without looking as though they were the used prophylactic of a giant whale. However, the other extreme reaction to heavy rainfall is a similarly bad scene. Anyone seen abandoning their clothes and bathing in mud deserves to get diseases commonly found in pigs. The same should apply to extremes of hot weather. Only take your top off if that’s your

squaremile.com

You wouldn’t wear a massive fluorescent phallus with a huge flashing red arrow pointing right down at your face, would you? Would you? No? Just checking.

DON’T BUY ACCESSORIES AT FESTIVALS Yeah, those friendship bracelets were a good idea. They were bought while you were of sound mind, weren’t they? And that’s when that tattoo was done as well, wasn’t it? Instead, do buy your accessories from mrporter.com. Get the whole look overleaf. ➤

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EXPOSURE

BEST OF FEST PRODUCTS FROM MRPORTER.COM

△ BARTON PERREIRA SUNGLASSES £310 Founded by eyewear industry veterans Bill Barton and Patty Perreira, Barton Perreira focuses on luxury and quality. These Dean sunglasses are a masterclass in cool design; the dark-blue lenses lend extra panache to any look.

△ APC LEATHER SNEAKERS £245 APC’s slick, minimalist low tops have substantial rubber soles, ideal for festival ground. Show them off with rolled up jeans or shorts.

△ BEAMS PLUS LIGHTWEIGHT JACKET £215 Taking a 1950s American windbreaker as a starting point, Beams Plus updates the classic lightweight cover-up with slick detailing. Jersey cuffs, utilitarian pockets and the bright red hue will make sure you stand out in the crowd, while protecting you from the elements without weighing you down.

△ MIANSAI BRACELET £88 Wear this burgundy leather and rose gold bracelet by Miansai alongside your VIP bands – you are a VIP, right? – for an extra layer of colour on your wrist.

△ PORTER YOSHIDA KABAN BACKPACK £295

△ △ TODD SNYDER COTTON SHORTS £110 Todd Snyder cotton shorts £110 Good basics are the building blocks of any festival wardrobe, so update yours with Todd Snyder’s charcoal cotton-terry shorts.

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SATURDAYS SURF NYC T-SHIRT £40 Nothing says festival like a brightly coloured peace sign. Saturdays Surf NYC blends 1960s beach culture feel with New York’s contemporary energy. This white cotton-jersey T-shirt is a prime example of that signature aesthetic, cut for a slim fit.

It can take up to three years to fully develop a new Porter Yoshida Kaban bag, testament to the company’s insistence on quality at every stage, from design to materials and construction. This sand-brown version has been made in Japan using cotton-canvas with contrasting white leather trims, and features a partial lining at the base to protect the contents, as well as a water-repellent internal pocket for your most prized possessions.

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STYLE SUITS

BROLLY GOOD SHOW The right combination of a double-breasted blazer and trousers will have you looking stylish – whatever the weather

KEEP THEM SEPARATES

PHOTOGRAPH by David PHOTOGRAPH Harrison by Kalle Gustafsson

“Separates are a big deal at the moment,” says Luke Sweeney, one half of cutting edge Mayfair tailor Thom Sweeney. “It can look great if you get it right, with a double-breasted blazer and trousers.” Don’t believe him? Well, check out the fella under the umbrella and you’ll see what he means. Traditionally bespoke-only tailors, Thom Sweeney launched its debut readyto-wear line, including a blazer and two pairs of trousers, this year. The collection has been conceived from all the essential elements that make Thom Sweeney tailoring individual – a signature forwardlooking silhouette, a flattering waisted jacket, and a natural but roped shoulder. There are two sides to the collection: a more formal one with a structured shoulder and a less formal one with a softer, casual shoulder. Both manage to achieve that ideal sartorial marriage of the modern with the contemporary. ■

mrporter.com

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EXPOSURE

RAIN SUPREME Contemporary British accessories brand London Undercover offers a distinguished way to stay dry and dapper with this stylish umbrella (£135). Finished with a traditional beechwood handle, it also has a vintage map of London printed on the lining.

mrporter.com

TRAIL BLAZER

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Thom Sweeney’s Duke double-breasted blazer (£1,375) is flawlessly constructed from smooth linen in the UK. The light grey, light blue and brown checks pair well with dark or light trousers. Wear it to your next event with a crisp shirt and bold tie. Shown here with a Turnbull & Asser shirt, Burberry London trousers, Drake’s pocket square and Paul Smith shoes.

mrporter.com

squaremile.com

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Our beautiful, Peper Harow, hand finished cotton socks epitomise everything that is quintessentially English. Impeccably made, with distinctive style and just a little twist of eccentricity. Quite simply you’re not properly dressed without them. Check out the full collection at peperharowlondon.com


EXPOSURE

STYLE SHIRTS

TRUE COLLARS

GEOFF QUINN , CEO of TM Lewin, on the resurgence of the club collar – and why, despite its round shape, it’s better suited to an angular jaw

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CLUB CLASS The club collar originated in the 1850s and became well-known when Eton College introduced it into its school dress code. Reaching the peak of its popularity in the 1930s, the collar has stood the test of time and has enjoyed a more mainstream resurgence of late. Check it out in a number of popular TV shows including Boardwalk Empire and Mad Men. It can generally be worn with or without a tie, although an extreme cutaway ideally benefits from an elegant half Windsor knot.

ROUND IT UP

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Also sometimes referred to as the round collar, the club collar is a good example of business wear meets directional, with a respectful nod to great British tradition. However, be warned: round collars are best avoided if you have a particularly round face shape because they can accentuate the roundness even more. They look particularly good on a wearer with a more narrow, slim face. ■

squaremile.com

GET THE LOOK: Fully fitted blue chambray single cuff shirt, £39.95; Banks suit, £299; blue textured silk linen tie, £35; white cotton pocket square, £6; all available from selected TM Lewin stores nationwide and online from

tmlewin.co.uk

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After a gruelling day at work, this natural mood booster will be greatly appreciated

www.soakyourself.co.uk

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Using only the highest quality ingredients (organic where possible), this limited-quantity luxury British brand takes extra special care to ensure that each Bath Ritual Recipe Kit, soap and selection box is packed with love and attention


EXPOSURE

STYLE FOR HER

URBAN SAFARI Banana Republic’s heritage as an outfitter for globetrotters shows in its new range of crossbody bags that will suit travellers and City folk alike

OUT OF AFRICA Banana Republic’s safari days go back a lot further than taming the urban jungle around its Canary Wharf and Cheapside stores. The San Francisco-based brand launched as a safari outfitter back in 1978 – and the colours of the African bush still echo through in its collection of luxury leather goods today.

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BAGS OF STYLE

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Chic, covetable and capacious, these leather crossbody bags are equally at home whether you’re travelling from country to country or strolling through the City. And if you want to take your MacBook away to see the big five, they’re available in two sizes (from £39.50 to £79.50).

bananarepublic. co.uk

squaremile.com

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THE COLLECTION Later this month, The Royal Exchange hosts its Watch Week where retailers will show their finest timepieces 054

FOR HER

▷ BALLON BLANC DE CARTIER £106,000 The Ballon Blanc de Cartier marries the brand’s signature art deco style with pure high jewellery decadence – there are 9.35 carats in total, set into the bezel, the bracelet and the crown. The remarkably fluid, weaveeffect bracelet features five rows of diamonds, while the mother of pearl has a flinqué finish, set off with blued steel hands and Roman numerals that curve elegantly around the 0.2-carat ‘ballon blanc’ diamond at 4 o’clock. Watches of Switzerland, 21/22 Royal Exchange, Threadneedle Street, EC3V 3LP, 020 7626 7321

MONTBLANC STAR CLASSIQUE LADY SMALL SECOND, £1,575

SMYTHSON GRESHAM COLLECTION TRAVEL WATCH ROLL, £340

ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL £3,300

Graced with a white mother-of-pearl dial with a diamond index – and redgold plated hands and ‘12’ numeral. Montblanc, 10-11 Royal Exchange, EC3V 3LL; 020 7929 4200

Made with natural goatskin, with a Nile blue nubuck lining, and space for up to three watches inside. Smythson, 7 The Royal Exchange, EC3V 3LL; 020 7621 1037

Rolex’s classic Oyster Perpetual, in a 31mm case with Azzurro blue dial. Watches of Switzerland, 21/22 Royal Exchange, Threadneedle Street, EC3V 3LP, 020 7626 7321

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EXPOSURE

FOR HIM

▷ PATEK PHILIPPE 5270G £118,940 Seventy years ago, Patek Philippe added chronographs with perpetual calendars to its existing range of timepieces. Since then, they have ranked among the manufacture’s most popular grand complications. The 5270G is one such watch. Endowed with this fiercely complicated movement, it was launched to much acclaim in 2011. This year, Patek has given it an upgrade and two new dial options – blue sunburst and, as pictured here, silvery opaline. The watch will be on display – along with many others from Patek’s Baselworld collections – at Boodles for The Royal Exchange’s Watch Week celebrations between 30 June-4 July. Boodles, 2-3 The Courtyard, The Royal Exchange, EC3V 3LQ; 020 7283 7284

BREMONT BOEING MODEL 1 £3,595

SAGE BROWN FINE LEATHER WATCH ROLL, £139

OMEGA SPEEDMASTER, £4,860

TATEOSSIAN CARBON, £195

Bremont has partnered up with Boeing to celebrate the latter’s 100th anniversary. Bremont, 12 The Courtyard, The Royal Exchange, EC3V 3LQ

Watch roll handmade in fine calf leather. Space for three watches. Sage Brown Fine Leather, 31 The Royal Exchange, EC3V 3LP; 020 7 283 2444

Omega’s Speedmaster Professional Apollo 11 45th Anniversary Limited Edition: it’s out of this world. Omega, 1 The Courtyard, The Royal Exchange, EC3V 3LQ; 020 7929 7706

An ultra light and slim watch made with carbon fibre and finished off with an Italian leather strap. Tateossian, 4 The Courtyard, The Royal Exchange, EC3V 3LL; 020 7283 3434

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EXPOSURE

EXTREME BRITISH SPEEDWAY

SLIDE OF HIS LIFE

It’s fast and furious – and speedway in Britain is attracting exciting new stars, among them the youngest-ever participant in a Grand Prix

EASY SLIDER

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SEE MORE PICTURES ON OUR iPAD APP

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ILLUSTRATION by publinc larit em potinium vid ces blah

redbull.com

PHOTOGRAPH by Esben Zøllner Olesen / Red Bull Content Pool

Meet Danish speedway star Mikkel B Jensen, a man right at the top of this high-octane sport who is now wowing UK crowds. The 19-yearold’s star has risen so rapidly that he is able to pick and choose the teams for which he rides – and this year he is representing Essex outfit Lakeside Hammers in the British Elite League, speedway’s answer to the Premier League. Jensen puts his success down to an ability to “get the best out of things”. Staying in control while sliding around corners at high speed seems nothing if not tough, though, and he uses this thought to keep him going: “A champion is someone who gets up when he can’t.” Not, of course, that he is heading anywhere other than up… ■


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FEATURES

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TORN READY. 074 PHOTOGRAPHS by Jasper Clarke


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LONDON

Calling OUR CAPITAL IS HOME TO SOME OF THE FINEST SUIT MAKING IN THE WORLD. HERE’S OUR PICK OF THE TOP SUMMER THREADS – RAINCOATS INCLUDED. WELL, WE’RE TALKING ABOUT A BRITISH SUMMER, AFTER ALL

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARRISON HAIR & MAKEUP BY FAREEN TEJANI 060

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BURBERRY: The Kensington short Heritage trench coat, £1,095; Prorsum oversize linen shirt, £350; Prorsum overdyed linen tie, £195; The Britain Automatic 43mm watch, £1,395 STOCKIST: Burberry, 121 Regent St, W1S 4TB; burberry.com

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DUNHILL: Navy cotton blazer (part of suit), £1,195; pale pink cotton shirt, £195; pink paisley pip silk tie, £95; STOCKIST: dunhill, Bourdon House, 2 Davies Street, London, W1K 3DJ; dunhill.co.uk

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RICHARD JAMES: blue Glen check single button cool wool two-piece suit, £975; pale grey fitted mesh shirt, £175; STOCKIST: Richard James, 29 Savile Row, London W1S 2EY; richardjames.co.uk

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+44 (0)20 7493 4444 Wigmore Street W1 · Harrods SW1 · King’s Road SW10 The world’s finest bespoke beds from £7,500 to £125,000

SLEEP BEAUTIFULLY Designed by Virginia White, hand-made in London

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GIEVES & HAWKES: Medium blue wool glen plaid suit, £2,495; sand linen/silk/wool storm system trench, £795; white cotton shirt, £125; tan cotton/silk double stripe woven tie, £90; STOCKIST: Gieves & Hawkes, 1 Savile Row, W1S 3JR; gievesandhawkes.com

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HACKETT: grey striped three-piece wool suit, £750; mrporter.com EDE & RAVENSCROFT: black silk pocket square, £35, 93-94 Chancery Lane, London, WC2A 1DS edeandravenscroft.com

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HENLEY-ON-THAMES

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INGENUITY, CREATIVITY AND EXCELLENCE: ALL WORDS THAT CAN BE APPLIED TO THE GREAT BRITISH COMPANIES THAT ARE LEADING THE WAY IN THEIR VARIOUS FIELDS. MARK HEDLEY ON THE BRANDS THAT ARE REBUILDING BRITAIN DESIGN & EMBROIDERY BY: CRAIG MURPHY

BREMONT THE SAWMILLS, MARLOW ROAD, HENLEY-ON-THAMES, RG9 3AQ

Until Bremont came along, British watchmaking was a dying art, largely restricted to man-in-a-shed outfits – but since the brand landed in 2007, all that is changing. Bremont is the first to admit that the Swiss arm of its business helps out with some of its dial and movement production, but the vast majority of the work is happening here on our shores. All the design, assembly and case manufacture occurs here, and the movements are being crafted here increasingly, too. Bremont exudes Britishness. Not only do its founders Nick and Giles double up as Spitfire pilots, but their surname is even ‘English’. You couldn’t make it up. bremont.com

ASTON MARTIN

GAYDON

BANBURY ROAD, GAYDON, CV35 0DB

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Adding the suffix ‘Special Edition’ after the words ‘Aston Martin’ seems a little superfluous. After all, every Aston Martin is a spectacular affair. But if you appreciate the difference between Premier and Grand Cru, then Aston’s Carbon special editions are for you – they are the pinnacle of Aston engineering. The DB9 Carbon Black [pictured] is square mile’s favourite, elevated above the standard model by a swathe of lightweight carbon fibre features. To cut and stitch the interior of each car takes one person approximately 25 hours, along with the hides of seven cows. astonmartin.com

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JAGUAR LAND ROVER BANBURY ROAD, GAYDON, WARWICK, WARWICKSHIRE, CV35 0RR

José Mourinho may have been the first UK customer for the F-Type Coupé, but the car couldn’t be much more British if it tried. With Sir Ian Callum’s design genius and the heritage of its spiritual forebear, the E-Type, Jaguar couldn’t go far wrong. But then everything that Jaguar – and its sister marque Land Rover – is doing at the moment is so very right. When Tata took over Jaguar Land Rover in 2008 there were fears that jobs would end up offshore, but that couldn’t be further from the case. In the last three years, the company has created more than 11,000 jobs in the UK. And, best of all, sales are following suit – last month the company was up 30% on 2013. jaguarlandrover.com

SUNSPEL NOTTINGHAM

CAVENDISH HOUSE, CANAL STREET, LONG EATON, NOTTINGHAM, NG10 4HP

For decades, Sunspel was the go-to label for men’s undies – indeed, it was the first company to bring boxer shorts to Britain in the 1940s. Founded in Nottingham in 1860, it has been at its Long Eaton factory since 1937 and, despite its expertise in gentleman’s underclothes, has become more famous for upper body garments. Daniel Craig flexed his pecs in one of its polo shirts in Casino Royale – and its T-shirts are renowned as handmade marvels. To make one Sea Island T-shirt takes nine people and involves 15 individual processes. sunspel.com

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BIRMINGHAM

DEAKIN & FRANCIS 15-17 REGENT PL, BIRMINGHAM, B1 3NL

Real men don’t wear jewellery. There are three exceptions to this rule: a wedding ring, a watch and a pair of cufflinks. When it comes to the latter, head to Deakin & Francis. Founded in 1786, it is one of the world’s oldest cufflink makers and is still based on its original premises. The workshops produce handmade cufflinks in precious metal, incorporating vitreous enamel and fine gemstones. Over the last two centuries, its jewellers and silversmiths have created more than 5,000 cufflink designs. Prices range from £150 up to £25,000, depending on the degree of flashiness you’re willing to go to.

GAYDON deakinandfrancis.co.uk

GRAFF 28 ALBEMARLE STREET, MAYFAIR, W1S 4JA

This summer sees the 10th anniversary of Graff’s Monaco Rare Jewels Exhibition, held at the iconic Hotel de Paris in Monaco. Although many of the works on show will exude modern European glamour – we’re talking Riviera jet-set sparkle at its very glitziest – every piece there will have been meticulously created back in Blighty by a team of more than 70 master craftsmen based at Graff’s Mayfair workshop. Our pick is this intricate cuff set with a 76.13ct yellow cushion-cut diamond at its centre. The piece took more than 550 hours to make and, needless to say, you’ll have to have deep pockets to take it home with you. graffdiamonds.com

THE BALVENIE

DUFFTOWN

THE BALVENIE, DUFFTOWN, SCOTLAND, AB55 4BB

MAYFAIR

We could happily dedicate every page of this feature to single malts, but the art director thought it might look a bit samey. Fair enough. So, with our hand very much forced, we narrowed it down to just one: The Balvenie. The tastiest drop to pass through square mile HQ in the last 12 months, this single barrel is the perfect digestif. Its 15-year maturation in a sherry cask has helped create a rich malt with dried fruit richness, nuttiness and spice: it’s like a fruit pudding in a glass. And fortunately, like puppies, it’s not just for Christmas. thebalvenie.com

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DIGBY KENT, SUSSEX AND HAMPSHIRE

There’s nothing better than beating the French at their own game – although technically we invented sparkling wine, but we’ll leave that debate for another day. What can’t be denied is that British bubbly has been taking on its Champagne counterparts, and often winning. But unlike, say, Nyetimber and Ridgeview, Digby Fine English is doing something a little different. Rather than growing grapes, Digby cultivates relationships, namely with the best vineyards across English wine country to ensure a supply of only the best berries. This diversity is blended into a frenzy by specialist winemaker Dermot Sugrue and allows for a richness that some of its singlevineyard counterparts could only hope for. On each bottle, a toast reads ‘To past and present; to modesty and refinement; to foibles and follies; to courage and curiosity; to adventure and abandon; to science and satire; to bishops and brigands; to green and pleasant; to England.’ Quite so. digby-fine-english.com

HAMPSHIRE KENT

SUSSEX LONDON

TURNBULL & ASSER 71-72 JERMYN ST, LONDON, SW1Y 6PF

Turnbull & Asser has been making shirts for the world’s great and good for nearly 130 years. From Sean Connery to Winston Churchill, great Britons have been proud patrons of Turnbull & Asser wares, and it is the Royal Warrant shirtmaker to Prince Charles at present. Since 1903, the company’s HQ has been in Jermyn Street, supplied by its shirt factory in Gloucester and tie factory in Kent. Its team of cutters and makers are apprenticed for a minimum of five years, using techniques handed down through six generations. Off the shelf, it’s impressive; bespoke, it’s unbeatable. turnbullandasser.co.uk

BOODLES 178 NEW BOND STREET, LONDON W1S

Boodles’ roots may be in Liverpool, but it naturally found its way down to Bond Street. The family-owned jeweller may have been around since 1798, however, its designs are anything but old fashioned. Last month, it launched its new haute joaillerie collection, Ocean of Dreams. Our favourite piece is this Underwater Dreams pendant – a pearshaped tanzanite surrounded by swirling fronds of diamond and tanzanite. Dreamy. ■

LONDON boodles.com

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Royal Exchange Jewellers specialise in fine jewellery and watches, we also buy and sell pre owned watches and can service all watch brands 020 7929 0100 | info@royalexchangejewellers.com Royal Exchange Jewellers, 29A Royal Exchange, Threadneedle Street, London, EC3V 3LP


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THE H LE TRUTH squaremile

MADE IN B R I TA I N

IN AN ENVIRONMENT KNOWN FOR ITS AUSTERITY, RICHARD ANDERSON IS BREAKING DOWN BARRIERS. MIKE GIBSON TRACKS HIS JOURNEY FROM NERVOUS SCHOOLBOY TO ONE OF THE MOST REVERED NAMES ON THE ROW

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ITTING IN RICHARD Anderson Ltd, I’m looking around, surprised: the top line of the address reads 13 Savile Row, but something’s missing. There’s no mahogany, for a start, and no deer heads on the wall. I feel comfortable, unjudged, at ease. In fact, the sense of austerity that usually pervades a Savile Row tailoring house is overwhelmingly conspicuous by its absence. That surprise lasts for about 35 minutes – precisely the time it takes to sit down and have a coffee and a chat with the man behind the brand. The eponymous founder is not a cold, curt authoritarian, but a lively, passionate and affable character who has built a company in pretty much precisely that image but – and here’s the kicker – while still maintaining the sense of tradition that has characterised the Row for hundreds of years. For a start, although Anderson has spent his entire career across two buildings on squaremile.com

Savile Row, it was something of an accident that he ended up there in the first place. “I completely fell into it,” he says. “I was a couple of months into sixth form and realised I didn’t want to sit behind a desk – I wanted to get out and do some work. My dad saw a job in the Daily Telegraph just prior to Christmas in 1981 that said ‘young, enthusiastic, hardworking boy wanted for an apprenticeship’. I ticked those boxes, and that was it.” He can recall the cold winter morning on which he interviewed for his apprenticeship as though it was yesterday. He arrived for the interview late, dishevelled and wet through. “You go in and it’s a different world. This was at Huntsman, number 11, two doors down from here – a very traditional tailor, at that time at the top of their game, probably the best tailors on Savile Row. Coming from a comprehensive school background in Watford, my visits to London were few and far between,

let alone wandering into these hallowed halls. So we did the interview. It was all very stern, but there was a great atmosphere in the place. We met the masters and I got the job.” Anderson was 17 when he started life on the Row. Abandoning dreams of becoming a footballer, he almost gave up after a hugely trying first few months at Huntsman until professional pride and a newly-discovered sense of ambition took over and he pressed on. For a young man, Savile Row was a tough place to start work. “It was an extremely disciplined apprenticeship,” he says. “Even though it was 1982, it could well have been 1952 – they really did speak to you in a certain manner, and it would be hard to do that now. But I guess at that stage I needed that discipline, and I respected it. “There was a glamour to it, there was an artistic side to it. And what I loved about it, even though I was a very small cog in the ➤

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You can’t go up and slap some Duke or Lord on the back and say: ‘How you doing?’ ➤ wheel, was that you were working for the best – I loved to be a part of that.” To cut a long story short, Anderson ended up staying at Huntsman for almost 20 years, becoming the youngest master cutter in its history, until a change of ownership at the top of the storied tailoring house forced his hand. “At that point [Richard Anderson Ltd co-founder] Brian Lishak was managing director and I was production director, so collectively we were running it. But then new owners came in and they put different people in different management roles. They looked after me very well, but I just thought that if I was going to do it, it was a great time for me to do it, to strike out on my own. I had four kids under six years old, a big mortgage, and everyone was telling me I’d be nuts to, but I thought, ‘Come on, let’s give it a crack.’ It’s proved the right thing to do.” The more I speak to Anderson, the more I understand about the distinction between his company and a lot of the other houses on the Row. He concedes that, even though tradition is still paramount, brands like his are going some way to taking the stuffiness out of the atmosphere. “That was one of the things we wanted to achieve when we opened this place 13 years ago,” he explains. “Huntsman and the more traditional tailors are great, don’t get me wrong, but it’s all dark wood with antlers, and

THE FABRIC OF SOCIETY: Richard Anderson on British suits: “Our way of producing a garment is vastly different to the Italians, the Germans or the Spanish. We have a quintessentially English look – even though the Savile Row houses all differ to a certain extent. I think you can plainly tell an English suit from an Italian one.”

it can be intimidating for a certain type of person to come into. What I wanted to do was break those barriers down but still maintain the quality of make and the quality of service – and the quality of cut.” This pride in one’s work is crucial to being a successful cutter, and Anderson’s plan was to first maintain and then exceed the quality that Huntsman was producing at the time of his departure amid concerns that new ownership would affect the quality of its output. And he concedes that setting up shop not only in Savile Row but also two doors down from his former employer was daring to say the least. “If a cutter leaves a company, normally what they’ll do is hire a little board somewhere down in Sackville Street or Conduit Street and start from there, whereas I thought ‘come on, let’s get amongst them. I might not have 200 years of heritage, but Brian and I are confident enough to give this a go, so let’s give it a go.’” It’s this unerring confidence in his own ability that has led to him dressing generations of British families, City workers from juniors to CEOs, and celebrities, with Kiefer Sutherland and Benicio del Toro among his cohort of loyal followers. He admits, though, that in his friendly, personable approach – a departure from the Savile Row blueprint – there’s a balancing act to pull off. “It’s a difficult one when you’re cutting for someone, because you can’t become too familiar. You’ve got to be professional. If some customers want to be your friend then of course you move that way, if you’re comfortable with it. But you have to maintain your professional standpoint. You can’t go up and slap some Duke or Lord on the back and say to him: “How you doing?’” At this point, it’s becoming clear to me that, for Anderson, it’s not about profits. Not primarily, anyway. As with most tailors, customers, and the suits he cuts for them, are the cornerstone of his business. “I certainly remember most of the customers. Because one puts 60 or 80 manhours into each suit, and our normal wait time is six to ten weeks, depending on the customer, the cloth and the suits are here for quite a long time before they actually go home. You have numerous fittings and you have discussions with the tailors about each piece of the suit. So the suits all become, without sounding corny, a little bit part of you.” The personal touch doesn’t just extent to his customer service, either. In 2009, his memoir Bespoke: Savile Row Ripped and Smoothed attempted to break down barriers in much the same way as his shop continues to, not only ushering in those already accustomed to the

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All the books from Savile Row were dry company biographies; I wanted to do something different Row but also being accessible enough to give those that aren’t yet ingratiated a thorough look at this unique culture from the inside. “All of the books from Savile Row had been very dry company biographies – there hadn’t really been much life or personality in them,” he explains. “I wanted to do something a little bit different and talk about my apprenticeship – how tough it was but how great it was – and talk about what it was that led me to become the youngest cutter in Huntsman’s history, and then setting up my shop. I thought it was a good story to tell.” That it is. It’s a tale of hard work paying off and entrepreneurial spirit thriving in a peculiar world where youth and vibrancy don’t necessarily provide a helping hand – in fact, they can even be a hindrance. Anderson may not, as he says, have 200 years of heritage, but his story speaks for itself. And if that doesn’t convince you, his suits definitely will. Not that the tale ends there. A personality like Anderson’s can’t be kept in one small shop on Savile Row, no matter how airy the atmosphere may be. Ever the modernist, he says the team are looking at expansion. “We really need to start thinking about it now, especially on the ready-to-wear side,” he says. “What I’d like to do now is get a standalone ready-to-wear shop and leave [the Savile Row store] as a bespoke shop. We’re running out of room here – we’ve got a bespoke operation, a ready-to-wear operation, we’ve got an office and a workshop – so I think the time has come.” It’s a typically ambitious statement from a man who has seen and done most of what there is to see and do on the Row. After all, he didn’t become Huntsman’s youngest ever master cutter, or start an internationally renowned business of his own, by coasting. His story may be long, engaging and – dare I say it – inspiring, but I leave with the feeling that, despite all he’s achieved, it’s really only just beginning. And if his company continues in the same vein as its first 13 years, its 200 year heritage must be all but guaranteed. ■ Richard Anderson Ltd, Sherborne House, 13 Savile Row, W1S 3PH; richardandersonltd.com

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BORN TO BE WILD BRITISH EXPLORER BEN SAUNDERS TELLS JON HAWKINS HOW HE’S REWRITTEN HISTORY BY COMPLETING CAPTAIN SCOTT’S ILL-FATED ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION

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N EARLY 2014, British polar explorer

Ben Saunders and his team-mate Tarka L’Herpiniere rewrote history with a world record-breaking Antarctic expedition. One of the most ambitious polar expeditions in a century, it marked the first time Captain Robert Falcon Scott’s ill-fated Terra Nova expedition had ever been completed. For four months, the pair trekked 1,795 miles across Antarctica’s inhospitable landscape on a return journey from Scott’s Terra Nova Hut, on the north shore of Ross Island, to the South Pole. In doing so, they also set the world record for the longest polar journey on foot. Walking an average of 17 miles a day in temperatures as low as -46°C, they hauled their own supplies by sled. Rather them than us. This is Ben’s story…

THE INSPIRATION I’d been working on the expedition for more than 10 years. Initially, I just wanted to know why, more than a century after Scott, and given what we’ve learned about everything from treating scurvy to solar panels, materials, and satellite communications, no one had actually gone further than this in Antarctica. How come that was as high as the bar had been set? I looked at it as an intriguing, almost athletic challenge, rather than exploring in the pure sense of the word – we didn’t go down there trying to find out where the South Pole was. I was just fascinated by the fact this journey hadn’t been finished.

PUSHING THE LIMITS We found out the hard way why no one had attempted the journey since Scott. It’s a long way, it’s really cold and it’s a tough place to hang out for 105 days. The journey pushed me

COLD REMEDY: The Gasherbrum is a serious expedition jacket that weighs in at well under a kilo. The combination of fine goose down and featherweight He30 fabric provides excellent insulation – and inside there are two large hand warmer pockets and a mesh water bottle holder. This is what Ben wore for his trip: if it’s good enough for him, it’s good enough for you. £350; mountainequipment.co.uk

This was a different league: I don’t think anything could have properly prepared us and Tarka to our absolute limits. We’ve both done a lot of big, hard expeditions – I’ve spent a lot of time in the high Arctic, while Tarka’s done a lot of miles through mountaineering. Neither of us are strangers to pushing ourselves and to suffering in challenging environments, but this was a different league altogether. I don’t think anything could have properly prepared us for it.

THE FUN FACTOR In a strange way, a lot of the enjoyment comes in hindsight. I’d always imagined the last day would be this incredibly emotional moment, with us skiing over the finish line back onto the shore of Ross Island and high-fiving each other. But we were just exhausted. We crawled over the line. Someone asked recently: “How many more days could you have carried on?” I don’t think we could have gone any further at all – we were right at our limits.

THE BIGGEST CHALLENGE We worked out the other day that we’re the only living people to have gone up and down the Beardmore glacier. It’s 110 miles along, heavily crevassed, technically hard to climb and quite a difficult place to reach. You can’t land planes on it, which meant that if anything went wrong we were quite isolated.

THE WEAKEST MOMENT People mistakenly assumed we’d toughen up out there and get better as we went on. It was the reverse; you get weaker and weaker and start losing weight, and you become very susceptible to things like hypothermia and frost injuries so you have to really look after yourself. Near the Pole it was very cold and windy. We were above 3,000 metres for a lot of the time, and physically quite depleted as well.

POLAR ATTRACTION For me, the appeal of the polar regions lies in the extremity, the climate and the remoteness. Other than the base at the South Pole, we saw nothing manmade and no other people for 105 days. It’s a vast, genuine wilderness, and being there is a pretty special feeling.

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NORTHERN STAR: Ben Saunders is a pioneering polar explorer and a record-breaking long-distance skier, covering more than 6,000km on foot in the polar regions since 2001. This latest expedition was his biggest challenge yet.

MAN TO MAN Tarka and I have both done a lot of big expeditions. We’ve known each other a long time, we’re good friends and I think we both appreciated that in order to get on under that pressure we’d have to be quite open in how we communicated. If something’s annoying you, you’ve got to be able to say so and figure it out, otherwise things just get worse and worse pretty quickly. But we got on very well – there were no punch-ups, no arguments. We had a few disagreements, and we can both annoy each other at times, but generally we got on extraordinarily well.

BACK TO THE FUTURE We often found ourselves reflecting on Scott and his ill-fated expedition during the journey. In some ways, we’ve come away with a sense of awe at just how far they managed to get more than a century ago – along with their absolute commitment and absolute risk.

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We had a safety net that just didn’t exist for Captain Scott and his team. Unlike them, we had daily communication and were sharing the story every night on the blog. To have got as far as they did, wearing what they were, eating what they did – it is mind-blowing.

TRAINING GROUNDS I live in London, and there are obviously no glaciers near Battersea. A lot of my training involved filling up the Land Rover with my dog, my skis, climbing gear and some long road trips to go and find new places to train.

WHERE NEXT? IN SAFE HANDS: Ben wore the new Bremont Terra Nova chronometer throughout the trip. As it was too cold for any battery operated device, the titanium Supermarine with GMT functionality and oiled mechanical movement became indispensable. The Terra Nova costs £4,495 and is limited to a run of 300 pieces.

I’ve gone through my Steve Redgrave moment, where I just didn’t want to see a sledge or a pair of skis ever again. So yes, sure, I’ve been thinking about what comes next. At the moment, I’m just resting and recovering physically. Even though I’ve put on the weight I lost and I look back to normal, I feel very tired and fatigued, so I need to catch up on a bit of sleep and a bit of recovery. I’m writing a book about the expedition this summer, so that’s the next big challenge. ■ Ben is a global brand ambassador for Land Rover, and an acclaimed public speaker, described by TED as “a master story teller”. See more at bensaunders.com

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GET LUCKY PAUL PESTER, THE CEO OF TSB, HAD A NARROW ESCAPE: HE NEARLY BECAME HEAD OF THE CO-OP. BUT WILL HE BE SO FORTUNATE WHEN THE RELAUNCHED AND RETAIL-FRIENDLY TSB FLOATS, ASKS EMMA HASLETT

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OME CEOS PAY lip service to transparency – TSB boss Paul Pester lives it. I know this because I’ve narrowly avoided cracking my forehead on the glass door to his office. The whole room is enclosed by glass. It’s less of an office, more of a fish tank. There’s no chance of a restorative nap after lunch here: Pester can be scrutinised by his entire staff. It isn’t just the corner office that’s made of glass, all the meeting rooms are. And the rest of the office, on one floor of a building a couple of doors down from Lloyds’s headquarters on Gresham Street in the City, is aggressively open-plan. There isn’t so much as a pillar to get in the way. It’s either revolutionary or a little oppressive. The first thing Pester says when I enter is: “Have you been told about the transparency?” This is extreme metaphor. Since 2011, he has been in charge of Project Verde, the cluster of 631 branches Lloyds is compelled to sell off under the conditions set by the EU when it bailed out the lender in 2008. In September, the group was hived off from Lloyds ready for an IPO in June. It’s clear from the start that Pester wants to do things differently. He isn’t the usual dyedin-the-wool banking executive. He completed a doctorate in mathematical physics at Oxford University and spent four years at McKinsey & Company before starting his career in finance at Virgin Money, where he was group

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chief executive for six years. Then he led Abbey National’s much-maligned takeover of Bradford & Bingley and Alliance & Leicester before he moved to Lloyds in 2010. Pester has been called the luckiest man in banking – if things had gone the other way, he would be chief executive of the Co-operative Bank by now. TSB, launched on the nation’s high streets last September, was packaged up and ready to be sold to the Co-op. All he was waiting for was for them to sign on the line. “It genuinely shocked me when the Coop pulled out,” he says. “I was walking into Lloyds’s head office and someone bumped into me – literally – and said: ‘Have you heard the news?’ They’d just received the call, apparently. It really was a complete shock.” Not as much of a shock, though, as when lurid allegations about then Co-op chairman Paul Flowers were printed in the Mail on Sunday in November. What bothered Pester, though, was Flowers’ performance in front of a Treasury select committee ten days earlier. “Not being able to explain the size of the bank’s balance sheet was a real surprise,” he explains. “The chairman should at least understand what value of loans they’ve extended to customers.” During his days courting the Co-op, did he have the pleasure of Flowers’s company? “I have met him. I’d been to several Co-operative board meetings where they wanted to talk

to me. They asked me to be the CEO of the combined Co-operative Bank and Verde bank.” And was there anything then to indicate that Flowers was the partying type? There is a pause. “Umm. Hmm.” A longer pause. “It was clear that he was unusual for a bank chairman in the experience that he had. So, yeah. That was unusual,” he says. But to be honest, Pester is probably not the best person to ask about that. Along with Barclays’ Antony Jenkins, he is one of the new generation of banking chiefs who are well pressed, clean living, twinkly-eyed and determinedly PR-friendly – not that the dry-as-dust Jenkins twinkles much. ‘Diamond Bob’ Diamond and ‘Fred the Shred’ Goodwin may have spent their free time puffing away on cigars in Belgravia clubs while their outfits fixed Libor rates, but Pester spends his evenings training for triathlons. He grew up in Plymouth, where his father was the coach of a local swimming team that included Olympic medallist Sharron Davies. Now Pester, 49, goes swimming in London on Thursday evenings and trains on Saturdays with his team at the University of East Anglia, near the Norfolk home he shares with his wife and two sons (both of whom are studying maths). For good measure, he throws in a bike ride or goes for a “long run” on a Sunday. “More recently, in the past 15 years, I’ve ➤

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I think we need to find a more balanced, more long-term way of rewarding our colleagues

➤ been doing triathlons as a way of having a bit of fun, really,” he explains. Blimey. The impression he gives is more of a civil servant than a banker: softly spoken, with a slight west country lilt, he is wearing a navy suit and patterned tie (not a brash pinstripe in sight), and looks awkward when the photographer asks him to pose. Wolf of Wall Street this ain’t. But that is what Pester is most proud of. The TSB team spent two years from 2011 to last year trying to create a bank that customers would actually like. In the end, they did away with the concept of an investment bank altogether, deciding to focus on a purely retail offering. And that is why TSB markets itself as ‘different’ – it won’t use customers’ deposits to make investments in funds no one quite understands, nor will it invest overseas. It marks a return to the suddenly fashionable concept of old-fashioned banking. “We’ll use your savings to fund loans that will support economic growth in communities right across Britain,” Pester says. The point, he explains, is that this makes good business sense. The lesson of the past few years is

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that duping customers, either by fixing rates or tricking them into buying unnecessary financial products, is ultimately pointless. “In the five years to 2013, the top ten banks paid out so much in compensation from mis-selling and various scandals that it’s the equivalent of five years of dividend payments to their shareholders,” he explains. “So it was a false belief that profit was being generated. What they’ve really done has been paid back to the customer anyway: they were never proper earnings that they were making.” He’s equally animated on the subject of executive remuneration. “I think we need to find a more balanced, more long-term way of rewarding our colleagues. I have some real personal views on how to do it. Having a short-term cash incentive can lead to the wrong actions… by all sorts of senior executives. I would like to see TSB try to make a bit of a difference in the way we reward our senior people, including me.” He may have the passion, but does Pester have the balls to run a publicly listed bank? He strikes me as being rather a sensitive chap.

Even battle-hardened Lloyds boss António Horta-Osório – who had run Santander and its predecessor, Abbey, since 2006 – was signed off for a couple of months in 2011 with stress. Running a national bank, retail or otherwise, is certainly no kind of walk in the park. But Pester is proving his mettle just by going through the process of listing. One of the conditions of a public listing is that you have to provide three years of historical financials. Because TSB didn’t exist until September, it has had to invent three years’ worth of data. It is working with PwC to comb through the records of every single customer who was taken over to TSB when the banks divided, going through their balances and the products they bought to work out what its balance sheet would have looked like. Then that data has to be audited. A single mistake throws everything off. It sounds agonising. The real test, though, will be the bank’s valuation of the shares. Pricing what is effectively a privatisation is a PR minefield. Too low and the bank will find itself in a Royal Mail scenario, accused of depriving the taxpayer of cash. Too high and it’ll be “elitist” – which, given TSB’s cuddly persona, is presumably a scenario that Pester would rather avoid. Then there’s the situation Lloyds found itself in in March, when the government sold 7.8% of it at just 0.5p more than it sold its original tranche at. Investors weren’t happy about that, and shares fell almost 5%. Pester, of course, won’t discuss this yet, as we meet before TSB’s prospectus has been published. But he says investor interest – he has been to 16 meetings this week – is high. “People understand our very simple retail banking model. It’s appealing to potential investors because we’re a straightforward, predictable business,” he explains. How long that stays true when TSB enters the mean world of public scrutiny is another question. Will Pester come out the other side with his squeaky-clean reputation intact? Hard to say. It’s every banker for himself out there. ■ Reproduced from Management Today with the permission of the copyright owner, Haymarket Business Publications Limited.

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LOTUS REPOSITION Last June, excitement reigned when Lotus announced that, for the first time, it was going to build a motorbike. And here it is – the Lotus C-01. It did have some help, though – it was developed by auto racing team Kodewa, car designer Daniel Simon, and motorsport group Holzer. It is, Lotus claims, a ‘hyper bike’. We’re not arguing.

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A first Lotus motorbike and Triumph going retro means it’s a time of ‘two wheels good’, says CHRIS BORG

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COMPLETE TRIUMPH Ah, nostalgia: the roar of motorbikes racing through north London streets to the Ace Cafe back in the days of swinging London, frothy coffee and jukeboxes. The Triumph Thruxton (£7,499) is inspired by this world, using 1960s design touches like dropped handlebars and upswept exhausts. Its name’s nostalgic, too – it’s christened after the British circuit where Triumph had success in production racing. For info, see triumph motorcycles.co.uk

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After the success of its last creation – 2011’s Nascafe Racer – watchmaker Bell & Ross has again teamed up with Shaw Harley Davidson Speed & Custom to create this, the B-Rocket. The concept is inspired by the Bonneville speed bikes from the 1960s – and it also takes style cues from jet aviation including its unique conical nose. shawspeedand custom.co.uk

MADE IN B R I TA I N

WATCH OUT Bell & Ross has launched two new watches, in limited editions of 500 timepieces, to go with the bike – the BR 01 and BR 03. Both take their inspiration from the bike – but unlike the one-off B-Rocket, you can still get your hands on one of these. bellross.com

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Reimagining a classic can often be a disaster – take the 1998 remake of Hitchcock’s Psycho as an example. But when it comes to cars, a few of boutique manufacturers have nailed this tough task. For example, Eagle did the impossible and made the Jaguar E-Type even prettier than the original, and now David Brown has joined this rare breed. Its Speedback GT, heavily influenced by 1960s classics – the Aston Martin DB5 in particular – is actually the proud owner of a five-litre Jaguar V8 producing 507bhp. The result is a sub fivesecond dash to 60mph and a top speed north of 155mph in a car that could only be out-cooled by the 1960s Sean Connery. That’s our kind of fast from the past. ■ davidbrown automotive.com

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TRAVEL PERU

IT’S A JUNGLE OUT THERE

DUNCAN MADDEN is entranced by the astonishing wildlife of Peru’s Manu Rainforest – and is humbled by the fact that its survival is in our hands

PHOTOGRAPH by Frans Lemmens/Alamy

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LEAF IT OUT: The white-lined leaf frog is one of the many vibrant residents of Manu National Park that the Crees Foundation is fighting hard to protect

I

T’S ABOUT PRACTISING a tourism that’s

ILLUSTRATION by publianc larit em potinium vid ces blah

sustainable and educational as well as fun and exciting,” my guide Ronnie, barely audible over the incessant hum of a million mosquitoes, says. I nod in silent agreement, wondering exactly what that means. We’re standing in the thick of the Manu Biosphere Reserve, deep in eastern Peru, straining to peer through murky light to the canopy 25 metres overhead and the pack of brown titi monkeys resting contentedly there. The question of sustainable tourism has been playing on my mind ever since I landed in Cusco and met up with Quinn Meyer, the charismatic founder of the not-for-profit Crees Foundation. A Brit who decamped from New York in 2003 and now divides his time between the urban and tropical jungles of London and Manu, Quinn set up Crees to conduct research into rainforest ecology and help local communities practise sustainable agriculture. It’s a worthy ambition, and one Quinn discusses with subtle but convincing urgency. He talks of the devastating slash and burn agriculture spreading through Peru like a plague, leaving unmanageable, barren soil in its wake. He speaks of the students, volunteers, researchers and scientists from around the world who have gathered to work and live in the Crees camp deep in the Manu Biosphere Reserve – a ramshackle global family with a single collective goal – and of his ambition to spread the message to the world as educator and guardian of his little slice of paradise. That paradise, the Manu Rainforest, is Peru’s largest national park. It’s a vast, diverse and abundant ecosystem that stretches 15,328km sq from the chilly heights of the Andean foothills to the steamy depths of the Amazon jungle. Exploring Manu is the purpose of my first visit to Peru – but for now, and despite Quinn’s sermons on its unrivalled beauty, my current surroundings are holding my attention as I stroll cobbled streets in the ancient Andean capital of Cusco. It’s raining hard. Drains have turned to fountains and streets to rivers, hampering our exploration of the extraordinary Incan ruins that were revealed by an earthquake in 1950. We take shelter in the cathedral and watch

The final ascent to the cloudforest is steep, but rewards us with incomparable views squaremile.com

locals busying themselves with preparations for an unnamed festival – women in rainbow colours with layers of pollera skirts and bright llicllas, the woven cloth shawls about their shoulders that often conceal a sleeping toddler on their backs. Bowler hat monteras sit on top of every head in a riot of jaunty angles. Morning dawns grey and wet as our ragtag group piles into the Crees minibus for the day-long drive to our first port of call, the wonderfully named Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge high in the cloudforests of the Manu Biosphere Reserve. We take our time, of course, heading through the drizzle as we chug along the winding roads of the Sacred Valley, through ravines wet with rain that has run off from the surrounding mountains and over a 4,100-metre pass where we find ancient wall paintings and a lone farmer tilling the land. The final ascent along the Kosnipata Road to the cloudforest entrance is steep and perilous, but rewards us with incomparable views from the summit over an impossibly dense jungle that stretches to the horizon and beyond. Quinn picks out the tiniest trail in the distance, and soon we’re trundling along it. The Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge takes its name from Peru’s national bird. And after a comfy night in my own private cabin (a luxury I definitely wasn’t expecting), we’re up in the dawn murk to see whether we can catch a glimpse of these bizarre and ethereal creatures. Our destination is a ramshackle treehouse a 30-minute tramp away where, if we’re lucky, we’ll see the lek – a collection of males engaging in competitive displays with the aim of enticing visiting females. Before the sun rises and the predators wake, a dozen male cock-of-the-rocks are putting on a show on dripping branches amid a tangled mass of ferns and mosses. Fire red, with bulbous heads and piercing white eyes, they hop madly from branch to branch as a troupe of plain brown females watch, aloof, from afar, deciding which has earned their courtship. As morning dawns, the show comes to a close. Birds pair off and the lek is over for another day. We drift slowly back to camp, our first chance to properly investigate the strange and abundant environment around us. Manu’s diversity is almost unparalleled. More than 1,000 bird species call it home (twice as many as the whole of Europe) – blurs of colour flitting between branches too fast for my eyes to see. I walk with Andy, a likeable northerner who heads the Crees Foundation’s research and conservation activities while undertaking his PhD. Mesmerised by tropical rainforests since a trip to Tanzania seven years ago, he lived in the depths of Ecuador before ➤

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PHOTOGRAPHS (top three) by Tom Mason; (river) Amazon-Images / Alamy

➤ Manu, and his knowledge of the jungle around us is profound. He identifies birds from their calls – highland motmots, silverbeaked tanagers, many-spotted hummingbirds – describes different bromeliads, points out alien-looking insects and sparks an interest in the intricacies of nature I never knew I had. We continue chatting as we pile back into the minibus for our descent through the famous cocaine town of Patria, where the roads are lined with mounds of cocoa leaves left in the sun to dry, to the rickety dock at Atalya on the banks of the Madre de Dios River. Swollen and raging from the recent deluges, the Madre bounces our riverboat downstream in a rollercoaster ride as we dodge trees and other debris. We pass a series of lodges that have crashed into the river as the ground below them gave way, with residents scrabbling to save what they can before it’s lost to the angry brown depths. Yelsin and Willy, our sibling pilots, show deft touch though, and soon we pull up safe and dry(ish) to an almost unnoticeable gap in the dense river bush. We’ve arrived at the Manu Learning Centre. A cluster of beautiful open-air thatched huts sensitively set in a small clearing on the edge of prime regenerative forest, the learning centre is the jewel in the Crees Foundation crown and the hub of its scientific research. After lunch, we tour the bio garden and then venture deeper into the jungle in search of monkeys, giant anteaters, deadly fer-de-lance snakes and the rumour of a jaguar. We stumble upon Crees volunteers rigging camera traps high in the trees and erecting safe bird nets, and huddle with some new arrivals in a viewing cabin over a wetland as the heavens open once more. That night, Andy carries on the conversation I started with Quinn in Cusco. He describes Crees’ primary research purpose – to establish the value of conserving regenerative secondary forest rather than focusing on older primary forest. “Old research that hasn’t been properly quantified describes secondary forest as supporting only 30% of wildlife species in Manu, but Crees’ research shows it’s closer to 90%,” he explains. As he talks, another researcher brings in several large boxes and unveils some catches from around the camp. A huge and angry emerald tree boa snaps at us, while Andy demonstrates what a snake bite looks like by letting another harmless specimen clamp down on his forearm. Later, in the ink black night and to the sound of a deafening frog chorus, we don wellies and head back into the saturated jungle. Torches pick out deadly caterpillars, ➤

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NATURAL WONDER: (Clockwise from top) Macaws provide a riot of colour against a backdrop of rock and leaves; a whip snake looms out of the darkness; the brown river cuts through the green of the forest; a cock-of-the-rock flutters onto a nearby branch

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MONKEY BUSINESS: The monkey trail offers the chance to see some of more than 30 species of monkey that can be found living in Peru, including titis, which often gather in packs high up in the canopy; (below left) the Manu Learning Centre’s Romero Rainforest Lodge

We’re aliens here, but we’re still somehow in control of its future; it’s a powerful persuader 100

their own throaty roars, making them sound something like chainsaws in the distance. Our last day brings us out of the depths to Manu Wildlife Centre, a sprawling jungle bound complex of cabins that’s as close to civilisation as we’ve seen since Cusco. We take a silent float over a nearby oxbow lake in search of giant river otters but instead spy a three-toed sloth hanging lazily from a cecropia as prehistoric hoatzins lumber comically from branch to branch, their strange dimensions making flight seem impossible until, finally, they rise ponderously from their perches. Manu has one last treat in store for us that night. As we’re gathered in the candlelight at the Wildlife Centre to toast the jungle with bottomless pisco sours, Ronnie bursts in to tell us, excitedly, that Vanessa has come to say hello. I wander out expecting to meet another member of the Crees Foundation, only to be confronted by a large tapir. Revelling in the attention, Vanessa gobbles the fruit that we offer her, happy to let us rub her nose and pat her meaty and scarred haunches. “She was raised here as an orphan and lives wild in the surrounding areas but loves to come back for treats from time to time,” Ronnie explains. Indeed, she seems so tame that it’s not long before the staff are trying to stop her getting into the restaurant for a proper banquet, eventually tempting her away with a trail of bananas and apples. Over a final pisco sour, my mind wanders

back to Ronnie’s dictum of sustainable and educative tourism, and I begin to understand what he means. For Ronnie, born locally in Puerto Maldonado, guiding us through the rainforests he loves isn’t about making money – it’s about letting the jungle magic rub off on his guests, opening our eyes to its precarious future. We’re aliens in this astonishing environment, but we’re still somehow in control of its future. It’s a powerful persuader. At the airport, I wait to say goodbye to Quinn, Andy and Ronnie, and find that I am in awe at these three guys from different worlds – all of them younger than me – who are so dedicated to the mission of making a difference in their chosen corner of the world. I realise it isn’t only the jungle that has left its mark on me, but also these jungle ambassadors, these self-appointed guardians. With the Crees Foundation watching over it, the Manu Biosphere Reserve has a fighting chance – and, in me, it has an ardent new supporter. But it could always use more. ■ Duncan travelled to Peru with Exodus, which has a 12-day Amazon Wildlife Discovery trip supporting the Crees Foundation in the Manu Biosphere Reserve. This includes return flights from London, most meals, and the services of a professional local guide, from £3,299 per person. Includes stays at The Cock-of-the-Rock lodge, Manu Learning Centre, Romero Rainforest Lodge and Manu Wildlife Centre. Next departing 23 July, 20 August and 24 September 2014. To book, call Exodus on 0845 863 9601 or visit exodus.co.uk

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PHOTOGRAPHS (monkey) Tom Mason; (Romero) Adrian Gallop

➤ orb spiders, a moustached jungle frog that oozes toxic white foam and, back at the wetland, the silvery eyes of a smooth-fronted cayman as it drifts silently across the waters. Sleep comes surprisingly easily that night, although I dream of eyes blinking in the dark. The morning sees us back on the river, heading to our deepest jungle point – the pristine forests around the Romero Lodge on a tributary of the Madre de Dios. The river ride is long, but we’re kept richly entertained by the spectacular wildlife shows all around. Blue and gold and red and green macaws flap and screech overhead, snowy egrets fish in the shallows, and all the while we keep watchful eyes out for a glimpse of that elusive jaguar. Quinn teaches us how to chew cocoa leaves, and we stop for a dip in a natural thermal pool with numb tongues. Explorations here take us even further into Manu’s tangled depths, and we’re greeted with families of spider monkeys swinging through towering ironwoods, responding to Andy’s calls with


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COMING SOON

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TRAVEL COUNTRY RETREATS

JUST GOOD MANORS Whether it’s a romantic hideaway or a corporate venue you’re after, MARK HEDLEY selects four of Britain’s best estates

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PENNYHILL PARK & SPA LONDON RD, BAGSHOT, GU19 5EU

MADE IN B R I TA I N

Don’t let the photo fool you – Pennyhill Park is actually a very manly resort. Yes, I appreciate that ‘Pennyhill’ does not sound very manly. But nor does the name of Lions rugby player Leigh Halfpenny, but I dare you to tell him that to his face. There’s a reason the England rugby team camps out at five-star Pennyhill Park before games at Twickenham. For starters, it has its own rugby pitch (available for hire at £1,800 a day). It also has an unbelievable spa and fitness centre with a giant indoor pool, treatment rooms galore and the best hammam this side of Aegean sea. The herbal steam room is our favourite: after 20 sweaty minutes you can’t help but feel healthier – it’s like they’re boiling a Holland & Barrett in there. The bedrooms have chunky oak doors, wrought iron fittings and beds large enough to host the whole England front row (should you/they be that way inclined). The bathrooms are graced by inch-thick giant red marble columns like something from Spartacus and showers that make Niagara look a bit limp-wristed. Surrounded by 123 acres of verdant parkland, Pennyhill has plenty of room for its nine-hole golf course, clay pigeon shooting lodge, tennis court, and croquet lawn. Essentially, you have no excuse whatsoever to be bored here. Any hotel that can cope with a national rugby team and all its entourage can certainly manage to do the same with even the rowdiest of corporate awaydays. But to write this off as just a conference hotel would not be very fair at all. Walk into the reception and you’re faced with two huge brass lions, plush Chesterfield sofas and a roaring fire. It’s exactly what you want from a romantic country retreat. A cosy piano bar for pre-dinner drinks is a worth a visit before heading to the hotel’s pride and joy, Michael Wignall at the Latymer. This two Michelin-starred restaurant is not just one of the best in the UK, it’s one of the best in the world. Wignall’s infamously exacting standards lead to an endlessly creative array of enticing dishes that will simply blow you away. In fact, forget the sport – just hole up at Latymer for the weekend and you’ll return home happy. pennyhillpark.co.uk

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➤ HEDSOR HOUSE squaremile

HEDSOR PARK, TAPLOW, SL6 0HX MADE IN B R I TA I N

With an 800-year history, Hedsor House was the venue for one of Mark Ronson’s birthday parties, showing just how versatile this private home is. Its 100 acres of parkland provide an impressive backdrop for any event, including product launches, conferences and weddings. The house has royal credentials, too: King George III and Queen Charlotte helped design it, and Queen Victoria was a regular visitor. Although I’m not sure the latter would have been particularly amused by Mr Ronson’s choice of music. hedsor.com

STOKE PARK STOKE PARK, PARK RD, STOKE POGES, SL2 4PG

Fifty years ago, a young Sean Connery played Auric Goldfinger in the most iconic golfing duel in movie history. The location for this scene was Stoke Park. This five-star country club is a golfer’s heaven, with a 27-hole championship course set in its 300-acres of Buckinghamshire estate. It’s not just about the golf, though. There are three restaurants, an indoor pool and a spa. There are also 13 tennis courts – home to the Boodles Tennis event held later this month – which also made it onto the silver screen in the film Wimbledon.

stokepark.com

WILDERNESS RESERVE SIBTON, SUFFOLK, IP17 2LZ

Set within a vast private estate of 4,500 acres in Suffolk, Wilderness Reserve is a luxury collection of serviced family farmhouses, cottages and manor houses available to rent for weekends or longer. Sibton Park [pictured] is the largest property in the collection, and was built in 1827. It’s a fine example of a Grade II-listed Georgian country house, offering accommodation for up to 24 people. This is the hideaway for enjoying the great outdoors – fishing, canoeing, riding, and more. Welcome to the country. ■ wildernessreserve.com

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ASSETS

FOOD & DRINK REVIEWS

RELIGIOUS EXPERIENCE

NORI BUT NICE Nori, the ultimate carb substitute, is edible species of Japanese seaweed. Its nutritional benefits have propelled it into the limelight, and it is increasingly used to wrap sushi, flavour noodle dishes and soups and also provide a healthy garnish. A third of nori’s nutritional value is pure protein, making it one of the plant world’s richest protein sources. The rest consists of dietary fibre, allowing you to feel fuller for longer and explaining why it is so commonly used in weight-loss diets. Nori provides iron, calcium and iodine – essential for a healthy cardiovascular system, maintaining strong bones and supporting your metabolism. At Pod, nori comes in the form of sheets used to wrap vegetables, umeboshi, pickled ginger and salmon or chicken into healthy low-fat wraps. They’re under 200 calories per serving, even when you choose to enjoy them with a delicious edamame bean, spinach, chilli and carrot side salad. ■

MARK HEDLEY pays homage to the food gods at a beautiful former chapel that is now one of London’s finest restaurants

HALL OF FAME: The Michelinstarred Galvin La Chapelle is based in a grade II-listed Victorian chapel. The Galvins helped save the chapel in Spital Square, formerly known as St Botolph’s Hall, from destruction.

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ALVIN LA CHAPELLE should only be spoken

about in the most hushed and reverential of tones. There are two good reasons for this. First, it is one of the best restaurants in town, and if too many people know about it you won’t be able to get a table for months. (Yes, I do realise the irony in publicising said restaurant in a mag with a circulation of 57,500.) And second, it just feels appropriate. After all, La Chapelle is a converted chapel – and as such is one of London’s few genuinely awe-inspiring restaurant settings. With its red marble columns, 100ft-high vaulted ceiling and giant circular chandeliers, it’s a cross between

It’s a mix of Hogwarts’ dining room and the Red Keep’s Great Hall in Game of Thrones squaremile.com

Hogwarts’ dining room and the Red Keep’s Great Hall in Game of Thrones. But to write this place off as a mere trophy venue is to underestimate it entirely. I’ve never had a bad meal at a Galvin establishment, but I’ve had few better meals than at La Chapelle. Jeff Galvin’s latest tasting menu is something to be revered. Created in partnership with Paul Jaboulet Aîné, each of its courses is matched with a different wine from the winemaker’s Rhone valley domaines. One of the most successful combinations was warm smoked eel and Alsace bacon, matched with the aromatic D Grand Amandier from Condrieu – an ideal softener to round off the dish’s smoky edges. Our favourite wine was the very fittingly named Hermitage La Chapelle, which made a worthy sparring partner for the restaurant’s signature tagine of Bresse pigeon. Heavenly. The venue may have once been a site of religious devotion, but now it is a shrine to fine dining. Just keep it between us, OK? ■ Galvin La Chapelle, 35 Spital Square, E1 6DY;

£4.99 in all Pods.

pod.co.uk

see more on

squaremile.com

020 7299 0400; galvinrestaurants.com

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ASSETS

SCARFES BAR BY NICK SAVAGE Scarfes Bar launched at the Rosewood Hotel earlier this year – and it’s about as British as Barbour, Burberry and bangers’n’mash. Adorned with large works by English illustrator Gerald Scarfe, it is central London’s answer to Manhattan’s Bemelmans Bar and could very well become equally as iconic. The Holbornsituated, Grade II-listed bar has been outfitted with a roaring fireplace, mismatched velvet furniture and striking oxidised copper chandeliers hanging from the ceiling. Bar manager Giovanni Spezziga has crafted a cocktail menu that favours classically English ingredients, with native herbs, berries and sparkling wines as well as locally distilled spirits. As the evening winds on, the lights dim and the bar draws a fashionable City set. Scarfes Bar seems to have redrawn the role of the staid and stuffy British hotel bar into something far more stimulating. ■

JASE & STATUS: Jason Atherton has worked for and with some of the world’s best known chefs, including Pierre Koffmann, Ferran Adria and, most famously, Gordon Ramsay – but these days his name carries considerable weight itself. City Social is his latest London venture.

FOOD & DRINK REVIEWS

A SOCIAL EXPERIMENT

Jason Atherton’s City Social is an atmospheric London delight – and provides JON HAWKINS with the best shepherd’s pie he’s ever had

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For the latest London openings, go to:

innerplace.co.uk

see more on

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AN IT REALLY be only three years ago that Jason Atherton launched Pollen Street Social? The former Gordon Ramsay sideman has been frighteningly productive since 2011, winning a Michelin star for PSS within six months, opening two restaurants and a bar in Singapore, a further two in Hong Kong, another in Shanghai and four in London. Clearly, the man doesn’t rest. His latest is City Social, which fills the vacant space left by Rhodes 24 in Tower 42 and looks out over a skyline creeping, like Jack’s beanstalk, ever closer to the clouds. When we arrive, the restaurant is flooded with the last light of the day, but within a few minutes City Social is offering up the brooding, decadent ambience of a post-work snifter in Mad Men. Chef Paul Walsh, previously of 28-50 Wine Workshop, is Atherton’s man on the ground, and the menu spans continents and styles. My starter of roast quail – little cylinders of subtly gamey flavour topped with pancetta, with broad bean and peas dotted around tiny, sweet quail’s legs – was a bijou big-hitter,

while tuna tataki was fresh and vibrant and the prettiest thing I’ve seen on a plate in a while. Still, neither dish was a match for the rack of Romney Marsh lamb, served with a side of the best shepherd’s pie I’ve ever tasted – rich and meaty gravy, with shreds of lamb so soft that you could stuff a pillow with them and a layer of creamy potato clouds on top. Heroically, I found room for a custard and nutmeg tart – like Atherton, I know that when you’re on a roll you can’t just stop. ■ City Social, 24th Floor, Tower 42, 25 Old Broad St, EC2N 1HQ; 020 7877 7703 ; citysociallondon.com

City Social looks out over a skyline creeping, like Jack’s beanstalk, ever closer to the clouds squaremile.com


*Based on a trial of 122 people drinking skinade for 20 and 30 days


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* Children under 16 years of age on 13 July 2014 with pre-booked Junior tickets or accompanied by a responsible adult who holds a valid course admission ticket. Full terms and conditions at TheOpen.com/Juniors.


ASSETS

GOLF JAMIE’S MAGIC TOUCH

THE PLAYER

Welshman Jamie Donaldson is almost guaranteed a place in September’s Ryder Cup after rediscovering his form in very impressive style. In a sport that has become obsessed with the hyping of teenage talent, it’s refreshing to come across a player considered to be rather a late developer. Such an individual might be in their mid-20s in most sports, but in golf – which can be played competitively into your fifties and beyond – Donaldson is almost a spring chicken. The 39-year-old is the first to admit that his career has contained a number of false starts, and the statistics speak for themselves. It took him 255 attempts to win his first European Tour title, the 2012 Irish Open, but his rise since that triumph has been rapid and impressive. “I’ve always been a late developer in pretty much everything I’ve done, really,” Donaldson admits. “I left school before I could develop anything there – and so I had no choice but to play golf.” Thankfully, academia’s loss has been golf’s gain. Last year, he took his world ranking up several notches when he finished fifth in the Race to Dubai, bagging a second tour victory in the Abu Dhabi HSBC Golf Championship and finishing runner-up in the Turkish Open along the way. Another runner-up spot at the lucrative Nedbank World Challenge in December lifted him comfortably into the world’s top 50, earning him the opportunity to play in the biggest events. This year, Donaldson bagged a further second place at the WGC-Cadillac Championship at Doral, with the $738,000 prize money taking his career to a new level and moving him into the reckoning for Europe’s Ryder Cup team. Having taken up temporary membership of the PGA Tour this season, Donaldson produced a solid showing in his first US Masters and, settling into the American way of life, is renting a house in Florida from none other than Ian Poulter. Just don’t expect rental agreements to be a topic of conversation if the pair end up as Ryder Cup team-mates at Gleneagles. ■

PHOTOGRAPH by Matthew Lewis/Getty Images

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ASSETS

A THING OF NATURAL BEAUTY: The course at Evian, close to Lake Geneva and overlooking surrounding mountains, is one of the most spectacular to be found anywhere in Europe. The Evian Championship is now the fifth major on the women’s professional golf circuit

GOLF FRANCE

MAKING THE FRENCH CONNECTION With more courses than Spain and Portugal put together, France has much to offer discerning golfers. From the outskirts of Paris to Bordeaux, NICK BAYLY savours a selection of the very best locations EVIAN RESORT, LAKE GENEVA

PHOTOGRAPH by F Froger

The eponymous spring water is worldrenowned, but so too is the golf course. Last year, it took on major championship status after the Evian Championship – which has been held here since 1994 – was made the official fifth major on the women’s professional circuit. Only a few minutes from the stylish Royal and Ermitage hotels, the 18-hole championship course is one of the most beautiful in Europe, offering magnificent views over Lake Geneva and the surrounding mountains. Although it was no slouch of a layout beforehand, last summer saw the completion of a nine-month renovation project by

squaremile.com

European Golf Design that has raised the bar by some way, ramping up the challenge facing the world’s best female golfers. The upgrade has seen all the tees and fairways remodelled, while the greens are now much bigger and more undulating and are guarded by deeper bunkers and several new and enlarged lakes. The crucial run-in from 15 to 18 has been given the biggest makeover, with the introduction of water to sort out the girls from the women, so to speak. While there is any number of strong holes, the signature of the new-look layout is perhaps the par-three fifth, which has a green surrounded by deep bunkers and fronted by a 100-yard long water hazard.

Evian’s five-star Royal Hotel is reopening its doors in July following a lengthy closure for renovation. Half of its 150 rooms and suites have been refurbished along with all the restaurants, bars and privates suites. The remainder will be completed next summer. Green Fees: €65-€115, evianresort.com

LE GOLF NATIONAL, PARIS Those of you looking to get an early sighter of the venue for the 2018 Ryder Cup should hop on the shuttle to Paris and check out the Albatross Course at Le Golf National. Let’s not forget that the modern Ryder Cup is as much about infrastructure, politics and ➤

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NATIONAL TREASURE: (from top to bottom) The view from behind the green on the 18th hole at Le Golf National in Paris, which will be playing host to the 2018 Ryder Cup; woodland dominates the views enjoyed by golfers tackling Fontainebleau.

➤ money as it is about the integrity of the golf course – but in Le Golf National the selection committee has opted for a safe but very professional pair of hands. Originally designed by Hubert Chesneau, the finishing work was completed by the brilliant Robert Von Hagge, the creator of the famed Les Bordes in the Loire Valley, which is arguably Europe’s finest inland course. The host of the French Open in recent years, the high-flying Albatross is a firm favourite among the ranks of the professionals, who enjoy playing in front of galleries that are packed with stylish Parisian spectators. Built specifically for tournament golf, the 6,854-yard layout combines the typical features of a Scottish links course with the target-style setups that are so popular in the States. It also

features huge raised banks to cope with large galleries, which also serve to separate some of the holes from each other. Offering huge, slick greens and vast, undulating fairways dotted with innumerable bunkers, water hazards, Fescue grass roughs and artificially-created sand mounds, it’s an extremely demanding test of skill and nerve from start to finish. The closing four holes deliver the high drama that seems a prerequisite for any Ryder Cup course, with water to contend with on 15, 16 and 18. Although contrived, they ensure that no lead is big enough coming down the stretch. The resort also features two other courses, the 18-hole Eagle and the nine-hole Sparrow, while accommodation is available at the on-course Novotel St Quentin. Green Fee: €93/€133 (weekday/weekend),

The closing four holes deliver the drama that seems a prerequisite for any Ryder Cup protect the course’s 100-year-old greens, while raised tees, especially at the third and 13th holes, offer incredible and sweeping views over the surrounding woodland. At just over 6,600 yards off the back tees, it’s not long by any standards – but a series of tough doglegs, the occasional blind approach, ➤

golfnational.com STEWART GOLF X9 FOLLOW, £1,499: Ever had the feeling you’re not quite in control of your golf trolley? Well, you need never feel that again: wizardry means the X9 can follow your lead. When you stop, it does. When you meander, it does – all at a respectful distance, mind. stewartgolf.com

FONTAINEBLEAU, PARIS First-time visitors to the magnificent Fontainebleau could be forgiven for thinking that they’ve stumbled on a small patch of England, with its pine and beach tree-lined fairways reminiscent of some of the Surrey sandbelt’s finest tracks. However, the regular appearance of huge white rocks rising out from the fairways like icebergs soon tells you that you’re somewhere completely different. Velvet greens, springy, sand-based soil, mature woodland and over 100 bunkers

squaremile.com


N Sw ew f ing aci Stu litie dio s in and clud bra e St nd ate ne -ofw th Ha e-a lfw rt ay Ind Ho oo use r !

‘Top 100 Courses in the World’ THE SUNDAY TIMES

HAVE YOU GOT THE GOLDEN BALLS FOR IT... Stoke Park prides itself on having one of the best venues in England for a Company Golf Day. Every need is catered for and no detail is missed. Come and enjoy exquisite 5 AA Red Star luxury, world class hospitality and play just like 007 did on undisputedly one of the finest parkland courses in the UK! Celebrating 50 years since the iconic golf battle in 007’s‘ Goldfinger’! To book or for more information please contact the Events team on 01753 717171.

www.stokepark.com


ASSETS

THE BLUE SKIES OF BORDEAUX: (This image, and below) Golf du Médoc is alluringly set among vineyards and offers golf and wine events and a terrace. (Bottom) The rustic charms of Domaine de Manville, in the heart of Provence.

The fairways will be governed by the seasons – so don’t expect to find lush green in summer DOMAINE DE MANVILLE, PROVENCE

➤ speedy greens and those rock formations ensure pars are not always easy to come by. A steak in the Art Deco clubhouse after your round will complete a memorable experience. Although exclusive, the club operates a ‘member for the day’ experience and visitors can also play at weekends during July and August when the members have all relocated to their villas in the south of France.

GOLF DU MÉDOC HOTEL AND SPA, BORDEAUX

Green Fees: €76, hotelgolfdumedoc.com.

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Green Fees: €48/72 (low/high),

domainedemanville.fr ■

SKYCADDIE WATCH, £150: Part of SkyCaddie’s new subscriptionfree range of entry-level GPS devices, this watch provides distances to the front, centre and back of the green. It only offers basic yardages – but it’s almost half the price of some other pricey alternatives. If you want more bells and whistles, try the SGX handset. skygolf.com

PHOTOGRAPH (Medoc) by Stefan Kraus

Golf and wine have always been natural bedfellows, and nowhere are the two more closely affiliated than at the Golf du Médoc, situated in the historic Bordeaux region. Set among the vineyards of the Médoc between Bordeaux and the Atlantic coast, Golf du Médoc’s 36-hole complex offers access to some of the finest golf and wine tours to be found anywhere in southwest France. The resort’s Chateaux Course first opened in 1989 and is regularly ranked as one of the top ten golfing venues in France. The host of the French Open in 1999, it is often compared to a Scottish links – a comparison no doubt prompted by its copious amounts of heather and gorse and springy, sand-based fairways. It also features large, fast greens and scrubby rough and a succession of long par fours and cleverly-designed doglegs. The accompanying Vines course is no less enjoyable, with the 6,892-yard layout gently wandering through a pine forest and tiny, sloping greens and carefully-placed bunkers calling for precision rather than raw power. The resort, which splits the two courses, offers a four-star hotel that has 79 stylish rooms and suites overlooking the fairways, two restaurants and an indoor pool. A variety of wine and golf packages and events are available, including Fête le Vin, a wine-tasting festival in Bordeaux from 26-29 June, and La Coupe des 36 Chateaux, a 36-hole event held on 6-7 September.

Located in the heart of Provence, a short drive from Avignon, Domaine de Manville is the idyllic setting for a brand new 18-hole course that has been carved out of the natural terrain over a four-year period and is intended to blend into the landscape. The course, which uses pine and olive trees in its landscaping, is part of a family-owned luxury resort that opened earlier this year and features a country hotel offering 30 rooms and suites, a fine dining restaurant and two swimming pools. Designed by French architect Thierry Sprecher, the layout, which opens to hotel guests this month before its official opening in September, winds its way through olive groves, vineyards, streams and rocky terrain typical of the region. Elements including bunkers supported by stone walls and fairways bordered like fields recall the former agricultural use of much of the land. Raised tees offer commanding views, while narrow fairways emphasise the need for accuracy. In a break from the tradition of most over-manicured courses, the condition of the fairways will be governed by the seasons – so don’t expect to find lush green pastures during the height of summer because the greenkeepers will let nature take its course. However, the tees and greens will – as you would expect – be in tip-top shape.

squaremile.com


All the flavor of Golf and Wines by Bordeaux... The Golf du Medoc Hotel and Spa is recognized as one of the finest golfing destinations in France with 2 superb golf courses for visitors to play on. Situated amongst the famous vineyards of Bordeaux, it really is the perfect place to enjoy fine wine and great golf. The Golf du Medoc Hotel & Spa is nestled in the middle of the famous Golf courses of Médoc (36 hole on site) offering best accommodation, full service and fine regional french cuisine in an elegant panoramic setting, perfect for a long stay in Medoc and Bordeaux Region, discovering Chateaux and wines after a great day’s golf. Play & Stay Médoc Package: Stay three nights’ B&B, get three green fees on our courses and two visits to the Châteaux in Medoc with wine tastings and VIP treatment for €455pp (double or twin room sharing). Available all of 2014(transportation not included) Contact: Email: h.martinet@golf-du-medoc.com or visit hotelgolfdumedoc.com

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HOLDINGS

DESIGN: KITCHENS . 122 PROPERTY: LONDON . 127 PROPERTY: IBIZA . 128

PANEL SHOW . 122 PHOTOGRAPH by Andrea Martiradonna


HOLDINGS

INTERIORS KITCHEN

ANGLE: POISED Dante Bonuccelli has taken the humble kitchen to new heights using geometric lines in his latest collection, says JACK DONNE

TA DADA!

PHOTOGRAPH by Andrea Martiradonna

Some designers prefer working in broad strokes; others, however, indulge and revel in the minutiae. Dante Bonuccelli is very much one of the latter. You might not think it was possible to get excited about kitchen cabinets – but then you probably haven’t seen Bonuccelli’s latest Vela collection for Dada. The continuity of the panels, the delicate pattern of its dividing lines, and the slim aluminium shelves are all hallmarks of the new range. Panelling materials include eucalyptus, crafted to show off its unique horizontal grain. You’ll never look at a cabinet the same again. ■ dada-kitchens.com

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DISCOVER | EXPLORE|CONNECT

Computer-generated images are indicative only

CELEBRATING A RICH PAST CREATING A NEW FUTURE COMING SOON. The highly anticipated first release of London Dock, by St George, situated just moments from Tower Bridge, the Tower of London, St Katharine Docks and the City. This exciting new destination offers a stunning range of 1, 2 and 3 bedroom apartments, with hotel-style residents’ facilities and 24 hour concierge, beautifully landscaped public spaces, shops, bars and restaurants. DISCOVER MORE | LONDONDOCK.CO.UK | 020 7971 7880 LONDON DOCK SALES CENTRE, VAUGHAN WAY, LONDON E1W 1YY

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Please note that the holiday homes may not be occupied in the period 6th January to 5th February each year as they are not principal places of residence.


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ANTA design company situated on the Moray Firth of Scotland's rugged northeast coast. Founded by Annie & Lachlan Stewart in 1984 remains ahead of its time. Known for its unconventional take on traditional tartan and its insistence on natural materials and fine craftsmenship. A chance discovery that TARTAN twice written includes ANTA in the middle TARTANTARTAN ANTA in Japanese means YOU Pure Wool Tweed Carpet Rug

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HOLDINGS

PROPERTY LONDON

TOWER POWER Not that long ago, City Road was seen as grey and run-down – but now it’s home to a spectacular new residential development. CHRIS BORG casts an eye upwards

UP AND DOWN THE CITY ROAD: Views from the 31-storey glass and aluminium Canaletto tower, which features balconies and terraces, will stretch over London. The building will have a hotel-style concierge service, with fibre-optic broadband in each of its apartments

A

S CITY ROAD has gone sharply up in the world thanks to the booming commercial and residential developments of Silicon Roundabout, so have its new buildings. Few are more eyecatching than the Canaletto tower, the brainchild of Dutch architect Professor Ben van Berkel’s UNStudio company and its first major UK project, due to be completed next year. The high-rise, which will have sweeping views taking in Islington, Clerkenwell, Shoreditch and the City, has generated a whirl of interest, with demand for accommodation mushrooming. Canaletto is meeting this demand with the release of apartments on the 24th to 28th floors – and this Beaumont Collection offers lofty, luxury living right next to City Road Basin, which is part of the Regent’s Canal. What living it is: designer Martin Goddard, whose work graces hotels including the nearby St Pancras Renaissance and the Berkeley, has created bright, spacious, threebedroom sanctuaries with floor-to-ceiling windows and sleek, state-of-the-art interiors with finishes in both timber and marble. And as if that wasn’t enough, amenities available include a restaurant, a swimming pool and a private residents’ club. Living the high life has rarely seemed so appealing. ■

Prices for the Beaumont Collection start from £2m. 020 7608 1825; canalettolondon.com

•• IMAGE by Christian Smith

The three-bedroom sanctuaries have floor-toceiling windows and sleek, state-of-the-art interiors squaremile.com

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HOLDINGS

PROPERTY IBIZA

ISLAND PARADISE This minimalist masterpiece on the White Isle is available for hire this summer. Book with us and get a free case of champagne to boot

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HINK OF IBIZA and the first things to spring to mind might well be megaclubs, vast crowds of holidaymakers and a 24-hour party scene. And that wouldn’t necessarily be wrong – unless, that is, we’re talking about the quiet and gentle north of the island. There can be few better places in which to base yourself and enjoy this relaxing atmosphere than at the sumptuous Can Tarba, only half an hour from the airport and tucked away in the hills behind Benirrás beach. This recently-completed and strikingly designed house, set in beautiful landscaped grounds, has five bedrooms – all with en-suite bathrooms – and sleeps ten people. Its huge windows offer panoramic views over its lawns, the hills beyond and down to the Balearic sea. If – or rather when – the weather gets hot, those windows can be made to slide into the walls, creating an inside-out living experience. But if it’s a full al fresco lifestyle you’re after, that’s there too – an outside dining area (complete with barbecue) can cater for up to 20 people, with a chef available on request, while an infinity pool offers an oasis of cool restfulness amid the heat of an Ibizan summer. Back inside, Can Tarba has enough tech wizardry and entertainment options to satisfy even the most restless of visitors. There’s a 128

cinema room with a screen that rolls away into the ceiling, each bedroom boasts a smart TV (with all UK channels available if you’re really missing home that much), internet coverage is available throughout the house (and by the pool) and a top-notch lighting system enables you to adjust the mood throughout the building at the touch of a button or two. A sunken chill-out area complete with deep and luxurious seating provides the perfect environment in which to sit and read or chat (there’s even a fireplace available for the use of winter holidaymakers) – or just contemplate the world as you unwind in style in the white house of the White Isle. ■ Prices for exclusive hire start from €12,000 per week. Make a booking quoting ‘Square Mile’ and you’ll also get a free case of champagne on arrival. Contact: 07976 909 686; nicko@bouncecars.com

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If – or rather when – the weather gets hot, the windows can be made to slide away into the walls squaremile.com


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RR London - Press Advert 3.pdf 1 31/01/2014 11:43:03

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Depend on us, so you can depend on your vehicle - whatever the weather. RR London are your local Land Rover and Range Rover specialists in London. We offer a wide range of services including maintenance and repairs - and our work won’t invalidate your warranty.

Get a service quote online... www.rrlondon.co.uk/service-your-car/

info@rrlondon.co.uk

LONDON

The Wrought Iron and Brass Bed Co. Hand Made in Norfolk, England Hand made and guaranteed for a lifetime

01485 521823 www.wroughtironandbrassbed.co.uk

020 7720 2502


95x125mm SQUIR MILE - 01.pdf

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17/04/2014

16:56:39

+ TO ADVERTISE IN THIS SECTION PLEASE CALL FREDDIE ON 020 7819 9999

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Years of experience, expert craftsmen. From restoration to race preparation.

WE KNOW VINTAGE, HISTORIC AND CLASSIC CAR RESTORATION....

CHECK OUR EXCHANGE RATES FIRST!

Currencies Euro/ USD All Major & Popular Currencies

Reserve & Collect for an even

Better Rate BEST RATE PROMISE

We Will Match or Beat Any Competitor Rate

Within 3 Miles of Any Branch* *Conditions apply

20 London Locations

.....INSIDE AND OUT.

98, Fleet Street EC4Y

0207 936 4646 83, Borough High Street SE1 0207 407 5717 13-14 Hanover Street W1S 0207 355 3800 18, Finchley Rd, Swiss Cottage NW3 0207 722 6767 20, Western Gateway, Royal Docks E16 0207 474 4700

Scan our QR code with your smartphone

+44(0)1795 830288

www.mikewilliamsrestorations.com • info@mikewilliamsrestorations.com Bexon Lane • Bredgar • Sittingbourne • Kent ME9 8HG

Inside&Out MWRS 95.5x125.5mm ad.indd 1

PIANOS FOR PIANISTS BY PASSIONISTAS Grand Passion Pianos is an independent piano boutique bringing you the finest upright and grand pianos by the finest makers. Each of our pianos is thoroughly researched and rebuilt by hand over a period of 6–9 months. The lengthy lead time and attention to detail allow us to present pianos of rare character and quality. One of our specialisms is the Pleyel piano and we always have several examples of these fine instruments available.

distinction restored

www.grandpassionpianos.co.uk info@grandpassionpianos.co.uk

0800 233 5213

Steinway Model O

gppianos grandpassionpianos

21/05/2014 09:31


squaremile

ESSENTIALS

BEST OF BRITISH

+ TO ADVERTISE IN THIS SECTION PLEASE CALL FREDDIE ON 020 7819 9999

SALLY LEES

DU MAURIER WATCHES

CHRISTIAN MACLEOD

MRS BOW TIE

An exquisite selection of limited edition cufflinks, collar stays, money clips and tie slides hand made in London by designer maker Sally Lees and available at Leadenhall Market every Friday. Each pair of cufflinks is precision made using traditional and contemporary jewellery making techniques combining silver, hand printed aluminium and gold. Personal and Corporate commissions are positively welcomed. T: 07788703601 W: www.sallylees.com

A world of luxury, elegance and innovation. Christian MacLeod presents unique and inimitable leather accessories that capture the extraordinary iconic signature vision. With timeless strength, christianmacleod belts are presented in SETH, BRYA and CZAJA leathers with the brilliantly embellished CM initials. Every belt resonates with a rare aesthetic showcasing exceptional finishes of intricate detail and refined quality, for the ultimate in timeless luxury. Visit the world of Christian MacLeod – www.christianmacleod.com

CRAVAT CLUB

Du Maurier Watches is an exciting new British company designing beautiful, Swiss-made, limited edition timepieces that are the height of affordable luxury. Designed by Daphne du Maurier’s grandson, the collection draws on the rich, creative heritage of the du Maurier family name. Classic time for creative minds T: 0845 5193074 E: watches@dumaurierwatches.com W: www.dumaurierwatches.com

Designer Bow Ties, Neckties and Pocket Squares. Our new Duos collection, two bow ties in one! Available in self-tie and pre-tied styles with matching pocket squares too! Prices from £16. Use coupon DUOS10 to get 10% off site-wide. Offer ends 30th June 2014.

T: 0800 862 0426 E: support@mrsbowtie.com W: www.mrsbowtie.com

COKROACH SLIPPERS

E: info@cravat-club.com W: www.Cravat-Club.com

Assembled by hand, in the darkest corners of the English Isles, Cokroach has crawled into the light to depict its fabled and mysterious tales, set on the backdrop of bespoke footwear pieced together with the finest velvet, satin and wire embroidery. Riveted with detail; from the cotton shoe bags your Cokroach sleeps in, the hand-made box it calls home, to the calling card that awaits you... T: 07714473914 E: cokroachclothing@gmail.com W: www.cokroach.com

WALTER WRIGHT

BESPOKE ENGAGEMENT RINGS

T: 01582 721616 E: enquiries@walterwright.com W: www.walterwright.com

T: 020 7490 0665 W: www.sw-jewellery.com

OCHA AND GARTH

CLIVE SEFTON

Inject style into your wardrobe with our finest British Made Silk Cravats & Pocket Squares. Why not side-step the crowd and make your first impression a lasting one with our stunning contemporary and classic designs at Cravat Club. Includes free delivery & stylish gift box with every order. 

Unique, bespoke hats designed and made in Luton by Philip Wright for ladies and men at his studio within the family’s Victorian hat factory established in 1889 by Walter Wright. 30 minutes from Farringdon will take you to the first and last place for exquisite headwear and will still leave you enough for your outfit...

Founded on the principles of providing modern menswear and pioneering timeless designs that outlive trends. We believe in being distinctive, using traditional tailoring but fusing these methods with a hint of British humour. Classics are reformed in our own style, in our own very unique and quirky way. Alexandra Coat Made of 100% WOOL MELTON Fabric Made in UK Coat Made in London Price £300.00 W: www.ochaandgarth.co.uk

Simon Wright offers a complete bespoke service, personally making your jewellery in platinum and gold using the finest diamonds and gemstones. An appointment involves viewing stones, a short tour of the workshop, and a sit down design session all in his Clerkenwell studio workshop. By appointment only.

Clive Sefton’s handmade original word searches have earned him some high profile fans. He incorporates around 100 words in each piece and has produced work on a number of subjects. He can also work with you on your own unique piece of artwork, perfect for a loved one or for a company boardroom or reception area. T: 07775 993486 W: www.clivesefton.co.uk E: clive@clivesefton.co.uk

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LOLU

LOLU - create stylish shoes that are of class, confidence, charm and timeless elegance to look effortlessly sharp. HANDMADE by expert craftsmen.

Navy Velvet and Patent Toe Cap £199

FRESH FITNESS FOOD

Half The Battle In The Bag We prepare customised diets and deliver to your home or work. Designed for fat loss, muscle gain, athletic performance and all-round health. Provide us with your nutritional requirements or let one of our nutritionists work everything out. Customised, convenient and delicious.

T: 07949 349864 E: info@loluonline.com W: www.LOLUonline.com

T: 0203 305 7585 E: info@freshfitnessfood.co.uk W: www.freshfitnessfood.co.uk

ENGLISH CITY STONE

POWERBALL

English City Stone supply hand crafted Yorkstone and Portland Stone throughout the UK. We are London’s most experienced fitters of stone steps and our in-house teams carry out all works associated with the renovation of your steps. Our unique waterproofing system ensures that your house remains damp free. T: 020 8673 8785 W: www.EnglishCityStone.co.uk E: info@englishcitystone.co.uk

The finest wrist exerciser on the planet, Powerball Diablo is offered in two highly distinctive models; 350Hz Chrome and 450Hz Gold - one produces a massive punch, the other is the fastest “human powered” device on earth!

VINTAGE WATCH MOVEMENT CUFFLINKS BY PRETTY ECCENTRIC

THE LANKY JEANS CO.

Who knew when these watches stopped they would be reincarnated into a new modern classic… Pretty Eccentric is a Brighton based designer with a love of all things nostalgic, quirky and fun. They started life in the 1920s - 1950s as original Swiss jewelled watch movements. Each pair comes packaged in a smart black vintage-inspired box. £50

Learn more at: W: www.Powerballs.com T: 07921 916697

Taller than average? Looking for jeans that actually fit? You’ve just found your size. The Lanky Jeans Co. is the UK’s leading online supplier of designer jeans for tall people. Specialising in slimmer fits, we cater for everyone. Contact us for size and fit advice.

T: 07870 607925 E: www.prettyeccentric.co.uk 

T: 0800 1955 051 E: hello@lankyjeans.com W: www.lankyjeans.com

ADVENTURE SUPPORT VEHICLES

3H ITALIA

What can your car do? Concept Multi-Car specialise in manufacturing the ultimate leisure vehicles and campervans. Combining market leading components with innovative, stylish designs CMC’s range of vehicles are designed to support your adventures, wherever they take you!

Exclusively online from 3H Italia UK this fully automatic, unique mens watch with square face. White with a polished steel case and two leather straps with easy change mechanism for every occasion. Dare to be Different. £425 inc free UK delivery. Check out the full range at www.3HItalia.co.uk Contact 0151 558 0015.

T: 01303 261062 E: enquiries@cmcreimo.net W: www.conceptmulti-car.co.uk

CHAMPAGNE & WINE ICEBUCKET

Are you looking for stylish, unique lighting to stand out from the crowd and become a talking point? You can with the table top colour changing remote controlled LED Champagne and Wine Ice bucket. Illuminate your dining table as the Ice Bucket gently scrolls through a pallet of over 80 different colours whilst chilling your favourite bottle of Champagne at the same time! Create the WOW factor this summer. T: 01628 780439 E: info@jusicolour.co.uk W: www.jusicolour.co.uk/party.html

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VINTAGE INDUSTRIAL FURNITURE

The solid oak dining table featured has a warm, characterful top. Supporting this is a substantial welded and bolted steel frame. The result is a piece with an understated presence. This is just one example of many available from Vintage Industrial Furniture. Being made in Birmingham, you can speak directly to the makers and get delivery directly to London. T: 0800 651 0001 E: info@vintage-industrial-furniture.co.uk W: www.vintage-industrial-furniture.co.uk/sm


ESSENTIALS

+ TO ADVERTISE IN THIS SECTION PLEASE CALL FREDDIE ON 020 7819 9999

FREDERICK THOMAS

Frederick Thomas is a high quality boutique offering original designs of ties, cufflinks, braces, tie clips and shoes.   All our ties are handmade and feature a unique design to the rear.   Introducing our knitted tie range for the summer.   Visit us at www.frederickthomas.co.uk

SAM GREIG - AVSNITT ARMCHAIR

The Avsnitt design aesthetic takes inspiration from the wooden framed Danish sofas from the 1950’s and 60’s. The armchair is constructed using an American Cherry frame, with grey tweed upholstery supported by hessian webbing. The design features a wooden frame constructed using the same oval section throughout the entire piece. For more information contact:

DIAMOND CONSULTANCY BONDS OF UNION

We offer access to the diamonds of the finest cutters around the globe. Typically we select a diamond over 1 ct with a customer and buy it on her or his behalf. We charge 12% plus vat on the actual trade price. Diamonds can be kept loose or set in our London atelier. 020 8749 1299 www.bondsofunion.com

DECASA

This light by DeCasa Limited Editions is one of a series of 30 swallows. Each of these tattoo inspired pieces has been hand-painted and is truly unique. A true statement piece which will make a great feature, day and night. Check out their range of home accessories at www.decasa.co.uk, or reach out to them on social media.

T: 07515 878 965 W: www.samgreig.com

MAIKO NAGAYAMA

Award winning Japanese designer Maiko Nagayama offers a beautiful range of gifts for loved ones. Intensely coloured precious and semi-precious stones drop colour onto sensual forms. Maiko’s unique collectable jewellery draws out your own identity. T: 020 7101 0712 E: info@maikonagayama.com W: www.maikonagayama.com

AUSTIN MACAULEY

WRITERS...we invite you to send sample chapters and synopsis, all genres considered. Austin Macauley Publishers CGC-33-01, 25 Canada Square, Canary Wharf, London, E14 5LQ T: +44 (0) 207 038 8212 W: www.austinmacauley.com E: mail@austinmacauley.com

THE WATCH AGENCY

The Watch Agency specialises in buying and selling new and pre owned watches by the worlds leading watchmakers including Rolex, Cartier, Omega, Breitling, Hublot, Panerai and AP. Pictured Rolex Rose Gold Day Date 118235 Retail £24850 in stock £14850. With prices starting at under half retail price contact us with your requirements. T: 01702 395100 E:info@watchagency.co.uk W: www.watchagency.co.uk

WIMBLEDON VILLAGE STABLES

Wimbledon Village Stables offers exceptional riding in a beautiful location only 8 miles from central London. We offer something for everyone and our riding will improve your fitness as well as relaxing your mind. We are proud winners of numerous awards for customer service and our stables are professional, efficient and most importantly, very welcoming. T: 020 8946 8579 E: admin@wvstables.com W: www.wvstables.com

LIZ TYLER

Designer jeweller Liz Tyler delights in creating sculptural jewellery always with a sense of movement in the flow of the design. Liz will be exhibiting at HALLMARK Somerset House London 24-28th June.

T: 01258 820 222 E: liztyler@mac.com W: www.liztyler.com

EDZ PERFORMANCE LAYERING

EDZ are based up in the Lake District from where they sell their excellent range of Merino wool products for the outdoor enthusiast, polo shirts, t-shirts, base layers, boxers and accessories. Available from EDZ outlet shop in Keswick or on-line www.EDZlayering.com T: 01900 810260. E: enquiries@edzlayering.com

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+ TO ADVERTISE IN THIS SECTION PLEASE CALL FREDDIE ON 020 7819 9999

01628 819050 info@hedsor.com WWW.HEDSOR.COM

EVENTS • CONFERENCES • MEETINGS • DINING


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City of London Festival squaremile.com |

ON THE TOWN

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Looking down at St Paul’s; dancers in the streets; an orchestra at Mansion House; Julian Joseph performs in concert; guests at the rooftop of One New Change

JAZZ WITH A VIEW

Roberto Pla at One New Change, 8 July

the rare collection of Harold Samuel art.

Jazz isn’t just confined to dark, smoky clubs – in fact, as the City of London Festival’s Jazz with a View series of events proves, it’s just as at home in a bright, airy outdoor setting, perched over the City’s skyline.

Tambolero Roberto Pla performs his rhythmic drum- and brass-led musicians at a rooftop venue at One New Change, overlooking St Paul’s Cathedral.

Tickets to this event are available at £12

Clare Teal at Uniliver Tower, 26 June

THE BOWLER HAT

The renowned contemporary jazz pianist performs original songs in Andaz Hotel’s historic Masonic Temple space.

Renowned jazz singer Clare Teal brings her brand of soulful jazz covers to Unilever Tower, with breathaking views over the Thames and Tower Bridge.

Paternoster Square, 23 June-17 July

Tickets to this event are available at £25.

Tickets to this event are available at £25.

Tickets to this event are available at £23.

For the duration of the Festival, a huge, inflatable bowler hat in Paternoster Square will play host to over 100 eclectic music, dance and cabaret events.

Limited availability; check colf.org for details.

squaremile.com

KATHERINE RYAN – GLAM ROLE MODEL Paternoster Square, 14 July

Ticket prices are dependent on event.

The comedienne brings her fresh, edgy humour to the City, in a show which takes a look at the world of glamour modelling.

MANSION HOUSE ART TOUR

Tickets to this event are available at £15. ■

Kit Downes Trio at the Gherkin, 29 June

This concert provides a unique opportunity to catch this acclaimed artist performing in a small, intimate setting at one of the City’s best-loved and most iconic locations.

JULIAN JOSEPH IN CONCERT Andaz Hotel, Liverpool Street, 11 July

Mansion House, 30 June

The spectacular Georgian palace’s doors are open for a special tour, which takes its guests around its public rooms and takes in

The City of London Festival takes place from 22 June-17 July in venues across the City. For more info, event listings and tickets, visit colf.org

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+ TO ADVERTISE IN THIS SECTION PLEASE CALL FREDDIE ON 020 7819 9999

Specialists in Ferrari, Maserati & Lamborghini Leading independent specialists based In Maldon, Essex. Hoyle Fox Classics boasts a wealth of experience spanning 40 years in the famous Italian marques.

From the stunning classic road cars, Ferrari 275 GTB/4, 330 GTC and 250 GTE to the more modern Supercar, our passion for sympathetic servicing and restoration has allowed our involvement with some of the most significant competition Ferrari’s. Minor servicing to full Concours award-winning restorations, please feel free to contact us regarding your Ferrari, Maserati or Lamborghini.

Tel +44 (0)1621 841444 www.hoylefoxclassics.com info@hoylefoxclassics.com


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June in the City squaremile.com |

HMS Victory for hire

ON THE TOWN

squaremile.com |

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: golfing with your peers; run the Square Mile for charity; arresting water photography in Chelsea; fast growth networking in Mayfair

THE WESTMINSTER MONEY GOLF CHAMPIONSHIP

AMBA HOTELS CITY OF LONDON MILE

Buckinghamshire Golf Club, 28 July

St Paul’s Cathedral, 22 June

If you’re tired of playing ex-pros or retirees who spend their waking life on the course, the Westminster Money Golf Championship has the answer. On 28 July, at the beautiful Buckinghamshire Golf Club, play against your peers from the financial and corporate world in a battle for golfing supremacy. Find this event on squaremile.com and register your

How fast can you run the Square Mile? Find out this June at the City of London Mile. Held in partnership with square mile and Macmillan Cancer Support, it’s a fantastic cause as well as a great workout. Beginning at St Paul’s Cathedral, the course runs around the City and even covers part of the London Olympic Marathon course.

interest using our event membership service.

For more info, go to: cityoflondonmile.co.uk

FAST GROWTH ENTREPRENEURS CLUB

EBB & FLOW AT THE SAATCHI GALLERY

The Club House, 10 June

Saatchi Gallery, 11-15 June

The Fast Growth Entrepreneurs Club is back for its fourth networking event of the year at The Club House in Mayfair. Following a successful breakfast meeting in May, it brings CEOs of fast growth companies together with potential investors, with a talk from Laurence Kemball-Cook of clean technology company Pavegen Systems.

In June, renowned photographer Qin Yuhai brings his photographic studies of water to the UK for the first time, with an exhibition and sale of his works. It’s a unique opportunity to get close to Yuhai’s pictures, taken over many years in the Mount Yuntai region of China. The artist says his studies echo the transitional nature of life.

For more info: fastgrowthentrepreneurs.com

For more info: saatchigallery.com

squaremile.com

EVENTS

HMS VICTORY Portsmouth, Hampshire, PO1 3LJ

If you know your history, you’ll know that the HMS Victory is the only warship to survive the French Revolutionary War, the Napoleanic Wars and the War of Independence, and that she’ll celebrate the 250th anniversary of her maiden voyage on 7 May 2015. If not, you can have those pieces of trivia for free. If throwing an event on such a storied vessel seems an attractive prospect, you can hire her for receptions, cocktail parties and fine dining events for up to 102 people. For details of packages and events, speak to Giles Gould by calling 02392 727 583 or emailing giles.gould@nmrn.org.uk

squaremile.com ON THE TOWN

The events on this page are just a small taster of what’s going on in the City and beyond; we have a lot more on our website, squaremile.com. Scan the QR code to be taken to our events page, and get stuck in.

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HOSPITALITY MADE PERFECT AT THE ROYAL ALBERT HALL

The Royal Albert Hall offers hospitality packages, including private boxes, pre-show receptions and fine dining, for a host of great concerts and shows.

Exclusive box partnerships available in four, eight and twelve seat boxes. For more information please contact us on 020 7959 0607 or entertain@royalalberthall.com

royalalberthall.com Registered charity no: 254543


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Small Cap Awards 2014 squaremile.com |

Gulls’ Egg Luncheon squaremile.com |

GALLERY

GALLERY

Last month, the City’s great and the good met and mingled at Merchant Taylors’ Hall for the annual Gulls’ Eggs City Luncheon. Held in support of Macmillan, square mile’s charity partner, the lunch is firmly established in the City’s social calendar and has a loyal following that consider it to herald the start of the summer in the City.

The annual Small Cap Awards took place at the Grange St Paul’s Hotel last month. Supported by the LSE, the Social Stock Exchange and ISDX, the evening shone a light on the best achievers in the sub-£100m market capitalisation category. Asset finance company 1pm took away the top nod of Company Of The Year.

It was another successful event for the Fast Growth Entrepreneurs Club, as CEOs of rapidly growing companies met with high net worth investors for a special breakfast and networking meeting at the Grange St Paul’s Hotel. Dessi Bell, founder of luxury activewear brand Zaggora, was present to talk about the success of the brand.

Fast Growth Entrepreneurs squaremile.com |

squaremile.com

GALLERY

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The Art of Fine Wine squaremile.com |

GALLERY

Last month, square mile continued its series of events celebrating the finer things in life. The Art of Fine Wine was held at Berry Bros & Rudd, London’s oldest wine merchant, which dates back to 1698. Readers enjoyed vintage claret, while learning about Berry Bros & Rudd’s Cellar Plan investment options. For more info: bbr.com

Cheval Three Quays celebrated its grand opening – and we joined in the fun. An impressive collection of new luxury suites and apartments on London’s North Bank, the serviced apartments offer the same level of service as a five-star hotel, but with considerably more space and privacy. For more info, chevalresidences.com

Cheval Three Quays Launch squaremile.com |

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GALLERY

squaremile.com


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A Gentleman’s Affair at One Hyde Park squaremile.com |

ON THE TOWN

ROLEX, ONE HYDE PARK, 100 KNIGHTSBRIDGE, SW1X 7LJ

squaremile.com ON THE TOWN

For galleries from previous events and information on new ones, head to squaremile.com

squaremile.com

Rolex and the Watch Gallery hosted square mile readers for ‘A Gentleman’s Affair’ at Rolex’s flagship One Hyde Park store. Guests enjoyed a champagne and canapé reception in the presence of Rolex’s latest collections, while Savile Row tailor Richard

Anderson and his team were on hand to demonstrate the art of bespoke tailoring. To round of an evening of style, sophistication and expert craftsmanship, readers were treated to a dram or two of Glenmorangie single malt whisky. thewatchgallery.com; rolex.com

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Go the extra mile squaremile.com |

READER COMPETITION

BEST OF THE BEST: Many thanks to our anonymous pilot for taking his issue of square mile to new heights; and to Christopher Ashton (left) who took his on his hols to Cadgwith Cove, Cornwall; and Merrick Haydon (right) who took his to the Rolex Kentucky Three-Day Event.

COMPETITION

WIN A JORG GRAY WATCH

This month’s winner was a no-brainer. Taken at 40,000ft, travelling at just under nine miles a minute – close to 540mph – in a Eurofighter Typhoon FGR4, the shot would be difficult to beat. The photo was labelled ‘Classified’ – we could tell you who sent it, but then we’d have to kill you.

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Don’t worry, though. Next issue, I’m sure you’ll have a chance to win the watch. Just take your issue somewhere cool. That said, if you do happen to own a Blackbird SR71, you’re a shoo-in. ■ Send us your high-resolution jpegs with the subject header ‘Go The Extra Mile’ to letters@squaremile.com.

Each month, the winning photo will earn you a Jorg Gray 5200. This impressive timepiece has a solid stainless steel case featuring an applied index dial, high precision Miyota three-hand movement and a natural leather strap. To enter, tweet us on @square_mile #extramile or email us your photographs at high res to

letters@squaremile.com

squaremile.com


WE WOULD LOVE TO HEAR FROM YOU: LONDON HQ: 020 7625 9400 hello@autovivendi.com

#AWAYOFLIFE WWW.AUTOVIVENDI.COM/FILMS/A-WAY-OF-LIFE/


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Square Mile, 91, Made in Britain  

Square Mile Magazine, Issue 91, Made in Britain

Square Mile, 91, Made in Britain  

Square Mile Magazine, Issue 91, Made in Britain

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