Page 1

squaremile.com

ISSN 1752-9956

The

We kick off the search for the most stylish people in the city: are you one of them?

ÂŁ4 issue 76

dowNload the app for free


©T&CO. 2013 00 800 2000 1122 |

TIFFANY.COM


Celebrating The World’s Greatest Love Stories Since 1837


Boodles Raindance +44 (0)20 7283 7284 Shop online at boodles.com


Fifty Fathoms Collection Chronographe Flyback Quantième Complet

Complete calendar flyback chronograph Patented under-lug correctors Secured calendar and moon-phases mechanism Water-resistant to 30 bar Ref. 5066F-1140-52B

Mission partner of Blancpain is a proud supporter of the Pristine Seas Expeditions

www.blancpain.com BLANCPAIN BOUTIQUES ABU DHABI · BEIJING · CANNES · DUBAI · EKATERINBURG · GENEVA · HONG KONG · MACAU · MADRID MANAMA · MOSCOW · MUNICH · NEW YORK · PARIS · SEOUL · SHANGHAI · SINGAPORE · TAIPEI · TOKYO · ZURICH


THis monTH’s conTribuTors

MAnSEL fLEtcHEr

Editor

Mark Hedley Art dirEctor

Matthew Hasteley dEputy Editor

Jon Hawkins SuB EditorS

Alistair MacQueen, Richard Reed SEnior dESignEr

Lucy Phillips Junior dESignErS

Ali Davidson, Bianca Stewart StAff WritEr

Matthew Huckle contriButorS

Elio D’Anna, Nick Bayly, Gabriella Le Breton, Tim Drummond, Mansel Fletcher, Robert Kelsey, Jeremy Langmead, Anthony Lejeune, Richard Mackney, Matt Roberts, Tristan Rutherford, Josh Sims, Robin Swithinbank, Lee Timmins, Saul Wordsworth intErn

Di Davidson-Amadi, Jamie Uprichard coVEr

Photography: David Harrison Styling: mrporter.com Model: Simon Robinson, motmodels.com printing

Colourfast Europe

HEAd of MArKEting & pr

Loren Penney MArKEting & EVEntS

Danielle Kent, Lucy Jones HEAd of digitAL

Mike Gluckman SALES dirEctorS

Michael Berrett, Lauren Neale

H

ow can you lead a country if you don’t even know

the way around your own wardrobe?” The blunt question is asked by the narrator in This is Not a Suit – Adrien Sauvage’s Sundance short. The stylish film is a pastiche of the arthouse work of Gus Van Sant and Jorgen Leth – and the point the young British designer-cum-director makes is that if you can’t even dress well, how can you be trusted to do something that’s actually important in your life. Bad news for Boris Johnson, then. You can read more of Sauvage’s refreshingly frank perspective on fashion on p70 – and he certainly strikes a chord with our own stance here at square mile. This may well be our debut Style Issue, but fear not, we have not – and will not – turn into a ‘fashion’ title. The day you read the words ‘über’, ‘ecru’ or ‘ornamentation’ in our magazine, please feel free to roll up a copy and shove it up my ‘foulard’. (No, I don’t know what that is either, but it sounds rude.) Clothes are here to make our life easier not harder. They can open doors and close deals; make a first impression and secure a lasting impression. Don’t get me wrong: if you’re an idiot, they can’t fix that. But at least you’ll be an idiot dressed in a nice suit. And if there’s one thing we understand it’s nice suits; there’s more than your fair share in this issue. As Josh Sims explains on p66, City style has moved into an era of classic elegance and distinguished understatement. So, no more white loafers, please. If this is preaching to the converted, then you should consider entering our Style Awards. Check out squaremile.com/styleawards – nominate yourself, vote for a friend, or just stitch up your boss…

HEAd of drinKS & VEnuES

Alex Watson print AdVErtiSing

Melba Allocati, Jack Bennett, James Reed Will Preston, Sophie Spencer, Will Taylor

To download our app, please visit: squaremile.com/app

AccountS

Steve Cole, Laura Otabor, Claude Alabi cEo

cHAirMAn

Tom Kelly OBE

@squaremile_com

020 7819 9999 Squareupmedia.com

JoSH SiMS Josh Sims contributes on lifestyle and business to the Financial Times, the Independent, Esquire, Wallpaper and social trends journal Viewpoint, among many others. His latest book, Vintage Menswear, is out now. In his feature, he explains why the days of the power suit are truly over. [p66]

LEE tiMMinS Lee Timmins is responsible for Atos Consulting in the UK and is a member of the executive board. He has consulting experience within lean management/supply chain and operations management. In this issue he asks is it really necessary to send so many internal emails? [p29]

roBErt KELSEy Originally a financial journalist, Kelsey went to the dark side and became a banker. Since the crisis, he’s shifted his career to set up a specialist financial PR company, called Moorgate Communications. In this issue, he gives some top tips for office confidence. [p30]

ABC CERTIFIED DISTRIBUTION: 34,637

Tim Slee

facebook.com/squaremileuk

Mr Porter features editor Mansel Fletcher has spent more than a decade – including a stint at Esquire – writing about men’s fashion. In this issue, he takes on five casual wardrobe staples and explains why every man needs them in their wardrobe. [p76]

Mark Hedley, Editor

@mghedley

square mile supports Rays of Sunshine Children’s Charity. Please give generously.

To receive your complimentary subscription to square mile register at squaremile.com

© Square Up Media Limited 2012. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. All information contained in this magazine is, as far as we are aware, correct at the time of going to press. Square Up Media cannot accept responsibility for errors or inaccuracies in such information. If you submit unsolicited material to us, you automatically grant Square Up Media a licence to publish your submission in whole or in part in all editions of the magazine. All material is sent at your own risk and although every care is taken, neither Square Up Media nor its employees, agents or subcontractors shall be held liable resulting for loss or damage. Square Up Media endeavours to respect the intellectual property of the owners of copyrighted material reproduced herein. If you identify yourself as the copyright holder of material we have wrongly attributed, please contact the office.

square mile uses paper from sustainable sources

squaremile.com

013


24

41

70

Cover feature 82

86

.

66 sUITs anD The cITy Style sensei Josh Sims takes a look back over 30 years of City fashion – and explains why ‘less is more’ has become the style mantra for today’s bankers

.

On the ipad SEE… Lots of exciting things Play… Lots of cool videos DiScovEr… Lots of extra content

014

70 LIVIng on easy sTreeT A Sauvage’s Dress Easy design philosophy is perfect for the busy City professional: it’s maximum style with minimum fuss.

.

76 The sTaPLe cenTre There are five casual wardrobe staples every man should own. Mansel Fletcher from mrporter.com explains exactly why

.

82 sqUare MILe sTyLe awarDs Cover feature We’re looking to find the most stylish man and woman in the City – and we need you to tell us who they are. Nominate now…

Issue 76

fEAturEs

Portfolio

AssEts

20 . The exchange 24 . arT work 26 . The anaLysT 29 . an enD To eMaIL 30 . conFIDence TrIck 33 . BonUs BUsTer 33 . escaPe arTIsT

86 . MoTors 90 . TechnoLogy 93 . FooD & DrInk 97 . goLF 105 . MeMBers’ cLUBs

ExPosurE

143 . InTerIor DesIgn 146 . PrIMe LonDon

41 . PrIMe TIMe 42 . Penny LoaFers 44 . Mr PorTer sTock PIck 46 . My worLD: nIck harT 48 . The FIrM 53 . sharP noTes 55 . sTyLe: For her 56 . The coLLecTIon 59 . PoD FoUnDer 60 . PersonaL TraIner 63 . aDVenTUre TraVeL

ProPErty

End PlAy 159 . eVenTs 162 . cITyPeDIa Look out for these icons to find out what ipad-only extras you’re missing out on

squaremile.com


HUGO BOSS UK LTD. Phone +44 (0)20 7554 5700 www.hugoboss.com BOSS 0510/S

BOSS Stores in London: Brent Cross Shopping Centre Phone 020 8457 9316 Canary Wharf Phone 020 7715 5302 Carnaby Street Phone 020 7851 9370 Eldon Street Phone 0844 847 9202 Knightsbridge Phone 020 7225 4790 New Bond Street Phone 020 7499 5605 One New Change Phone 020 7332 0573 Queen Street Phone 020 7213 9717 Regent Street Phone 020 7734 7919 Sloane Square Phone 020 7259 1240 Westfield London Phone 020 8222 6310 Westfield Stratford City Phone 020 8221 4840


w w w . n o u d a r. c o m

EXPERIENCE THE TIMELESS TREASURES OF ARABIAN CIVILIZATION REBORN IN THE EXQUISITE JEWELLERY OF NOUDAR HENNA

COLLECTION

AVA I L A B L E

AT

|

OXIDISED

F R O S T

O F

GOLD

RING

L O N D O N ,

SET 1 0 8

WITH

3.44

B O N D

C A R AT S S T R E E T,

OF

BLACK

0 2 0

DIAMONDS

3 3 7 2

0 1 0 8


Portfolio

The exchange arT work The analysT columns objecTify

. . . . .

020 024 026 029 033

Know your arse from your elbow . 24 PhotograPh by Bruno Bisang, courtesy of the Little Black gallery


The ciTy index

100

Things To do

1

AfTer The CiTy

Words

Saul Wordsworth

#50 life coach

For more 100 Things, see saulwordsworth.com

020

2 3 4 5

Bad news, Barack: Britain’s got itself a new best friend, and it looks like this one’s a keeper. And the other party in the new special relationship? Germany. The UK has shoved the country’s previous bestie, France, out of the way to become its biggest trade partner, trading a total of €153bn in goods and services with Germany in the first three quarters of 2012. Exports of British goods to Germany rose by 20% over the same period the previous year. And just what are we making that the Germans just can’t get enough of? Cornish pasties? Princess Diana memorial china? Books about trainee wizards? Nope: they’re after our world-leading medical goods, drugs and car parts. Just wait until we unleash the Tesco Value burgers on them…

▲ a m e r i c a n psyc h o t h e m u s i c a l

The showtune-honed ears of City luvvies pricked up last April when it was announced that a musical version of Brett Easton Ellis’s American Psycho was in the pipeline, and now there’s more good news; the show’s a goer, set for an autumn 2013 debut at London’s Almeida theatre. The 1991 novel tells the story of chainsaw-wielding banker, bon viveur and Phil Collins enthusiast Patrick Bateman, played by Christian Bale in the 2000 film adaptation. But who would get the role of the all-singing, all-dancing, all-murdering psycho-banker in the musical? If there’s a candidate in your office, drop us an email. Or, better still, send us their business card.

▲ Jamie dimon

It’s easy for the public to forget how good the banks have been to them these past few years, so hats off to JP Morgan chief Jamie Dimon for reminding them in his Davos speech. “JP Morgan was not a fair weather friend,” he said. “We were there in good times and bad times for everyone, including nations.” On behalf of the world: thanks, Jamie.

▲ michael sherwood

Sherwood, head of Goldman Sachs in London, is believed to be the best paid banker in the country, and this year earned more than CEO Lloyd Blankfein. He was awarded 109,461 shares, equal to almost £10m, compared with Blankfein’s 94,320. Nice stock if you can get it…

▲ modesty

A cover letter sent by a wannabe intern claiming to have “no unbelievably special skills or genius eccentricities” has been doing the rounds on Wall St, to considerable praise for its humble tone. Wouldn’t get them far over here, obviously.

squaremile.com

‘Miles’ by Jamel Akib. PhotogrAPh (top right, facing page) by richard Wearne

The exchange

▽ Whether it’s a pay rise, a personalised number plate or a long-term relationship with Holly Willoughby, we all have goals in life. Sometimes the path to these goals may seem uncertain. For example, Holly might have a restraining order against you, or you can’t drive. If you struggle to maximise your own potential, consistently leave your Oyster card in Berkshire, or are frightened of clowns, you may wish to seek the services of a life coach. A life coach is someone who hasn’t been able to reach their own personal goals and has therefore decided to become a life coach. But that’s OK. Just because they’re a failure doesn’t mean you are. Although the fact you’re seeing them probably means you are. But never mind. We’re all friends here. The life coach uses an assortment of disciplines to help knock you into shape. These include psychology, hypnosis, spreadsheets, spanking and the hair dryer treatment (for those with wet hair). They will ask you to write down your goals then break them down into manageable chunks, a bit like the way we chew our food up before finally swallowing it down into our tummies. No one likes to eat a whole herring, they will tell you. But you’re an intelligent person, in a way. You must ask yourself: if my life coach is so great why aren’t they as successful as other famous businessmen such as Donald Trump or Grant Bovey? How come their shirt is from Lidl? Why does their computer say ‘For library use only’ on the side? These are fair questions, especially when you’re paying per suggestion (“eat breakfast”, “smile”, “don’t forget lunch”). Know what I think? Ditch the life coach. You’re strong. You can think for yourself. Live your life. Make that change. Think big. Aim for the stars. And if things don’t work out you can always re-train as a life coach. ■

▲ t h e s p e c i a l r e l at i o n s h i p


Portfolio

Want to nominate someone? Work with a legend? Or a turkey? Contact us with your City Winners & Losers: jon@squaremile.com

Not so long ago, barely a day went by without some haul of financial super-con Bernie Madoff’s belongings turning up at auction. For a glorious period in late 2010 and early 2011, it seemed anything was possible for the curious bidder with money to burn. Lazing around in monogrammed ‘BLM’ slippers while tinkling the ivories of Bernie’s old Steinway like a Ponzi Liberace? Why not? Knocking back his 1975 Chateau Pétrus while wearing silk boxers from the great man’s wardrobe? Be Bernie’s guest. And then nothing. Until January, when items from Madoff’s book collection began surfacing on eBay. Titles included Black Money by Michael Thomas, Roger Lowenstein’s When Genius Failed and The Liars’ Club by Mary Carr. We’re holding out for more undies…

▼ the economy

Empire-building monarch Queen Victoria will be turning in her grave at news Britain is set to lose its place in the world’s top ten economies by 2050. A PwC report says the UK will be overtaken by Mexico and Indonesia as emerging economies continue to rise. British CEOs at the World Economic Forum in Davos were obviously riding the same wave of optimism – only 22% of those running UK companies are “very confident” about the country’s growth in 2013, according to another PwC study. On the plus side, we’ll almost certainly be dead by 2050 anyway, particularly if the Japanese finance minister gets his way [see below].

▼ j a pa n e s e p e n s i o n e r s

Finance minister Taro Aso has hit on a revolutionary approach to easing the burden of Japan’s ageing population; the elderly should be allowed to “hurry up and die”, he told the national council on social security reforms. He may later have admitted the comment was “inappropriate”, but he still won’t be welcome in Eastbourne any time soon.

▼ city jobs

A total of 36,868 City workers lost their jobs in 2012, the highest number since 2008. Data obtained from the FSA by law firm Pinsent Masons revealed 1,373 of those were dismissed or suspended, up 76% on the previous year. Here’s to a more secure – and less controversial – 2013.

▼ london

According to a survey by eHow, seven of the eight worst places to live in the UK are in London. East London, South East London and Ilford (on the eastern side of London) made up the top three – anyone seeing a pattern here?

squaremile.com

1 2 3 4 5

Arguably for the first time, Wall Street’s shareholders are getting the lion’s share of the profitability

▼ madoff’s library

Brad Hintz, Bernstein research, on Goldman’s 2012 annualised return on equity as the bank’s shares hit their highest level since 2006

Deloitte Ride AcRoss BRitAin Words

Jack Donne

8-16 june 2013

▽ If you’re anythIng like square mile, most of your new year’s resolutions will have been comprehensively ignored by 2 January. But there is one we’re sticking to: cycling. So much so, that we have even launched the square mile Cycling Club – and you can join us. On select weekends over the year, we’ll be taking on some of the best rides in and around London, always finishing up at a suitable watering hole. One of our aims is to get in shape for the fourth annual Deloitte Ride Across Britain. Setting off from John O’Groats, this gruelling 960-mile cycle ride finishes up in Land’s End nine days later. The event offers a unique way to see the best of Britain either solo or in a relay team, with a route carefully mapped out to take riders through some of Britain’s most beautiful countryside along the way. At the end of each stage, you’re able to relax in the base camps, where you’ll be provided with accommodation, food and drink, and the chance to share your experiences with other riders. On sign-up, you’re supplied with advanced training plans and expert advice from bike mechanics, nutritionists, and physiotherapists. Support staff will be on hand throughout the event – so all you’ll have to worry about is the pedalling. So far, a total of £1.1m has been raised for the event’s benefiting charity, ParalympicsGB, with around the same again raised for other charities chosen by the riders. ■ Book your space in this year’s event by visiting rideacrossbritain.com Join square mile Cycling Club for free by emailing cycle@squaremile.com

CYCLING CLUB

021


Portfolio

The exchange

The Penfolds ColleCTion, £1.2m

Words

In the global rankings of superstar wines, there’s no doubt Penfolds Grange is a Hollywood A-lister. Versatile, universally appealing and multi award-winning – it’s the Hugh Jackman of red wines. As LA’s Awards Season is in full swing, it somehow seems fitting that Penfolds should be making its own headlines this side of the pond. The Penfolds Collection – the finest set of Penfolds wines ever to be sold – has been launched at Hedonism Wines in Mayfair. It includes a full vertical of signed Grange spanning six decades, from the experimental first vintage of 1951 through to current vintage of 2007. Each bottle has been authenticated and signed by

foR PeoPle WiTh money To BuRn

Banking ViCToRs and Villains… Words

Mark Hedley

one of Penfolds’ chief winemakers including Max Schubert, John Duval, and Peter Gago – masters of Grange, past and present. Included in the line-up is the 1955 Grange – named in the top 12 wines of the 20th century by Wine Spectator magazine. As well as the wines, the owner will also be entitled to a bespoke cellar built in their own home. This can be an extension to an existing cellar, or a brand new installation. And to top it all off, Penfolds will also fly you out to its HQ, the Magill Estate in Adelaide, for a unique VIP tour and holiday. The cost for this blockbuster? £1.2m. ■ For further info on Hedonism, call 020 729 07870, or visit hedonism.co.uk

Matt Huckle

#25 amadeo giannini

▽ We’ve spent a lot of time in this column joyously picking apart the scams and cons of various rogue traders who used financial trickery to further their own ends. However, banking does have it’s fair share of heroes who don’t get nearly enough recognition. Amadeo Giannini is one of those people. Giannini was born in 1870 in San Jose, California to Italian parents – and became the founder of Bank of America. He pioneered many modern financial practices but also felt that banking shouldn’t just serve the rich, and that poor, hard-working people should benefit, too. As a result, Giannini became a star of the ‘people’. That’s not a misprint, folks: this banker was actually popular with the public. Before Bank of America, Giannini started the Bank of Italy owing to a belief that the immigrant working classes could be credit worthy. He gave them access to auto-loans, mortgages, and other lines of credit. He was also instrumental in getting San Francisco back on its feet after the Great Quake of 1906. Where other banks wanted to seal their vaults and minimise the damage, Giannini set up shop on a plank of wood balanced on two barrels and started lending to small businesses. Allegedly he received 100% of his loan payments back. No one scams nice guys. Giannini also financed the film industry before it was a proven commodity, loaning Walt Disney the cash to make Snow White. When he died in 1949, hundreds of normal people attended his funeral. We expect Fred Goodwin’s death will elicit a similar reaction. ■

squaremile.com

PhotograPh by henry guttmann/Keystone/hulton archive/getty Images. Cartoon by Modern toss

022

CRu nCh BunCh

R★o★g★u★e TRadeRs


Portfolio

➤ Asahi Artwork ➤

Instant Icon — By Bruno Bisang —

Hot sHots BrougHt to you in association witH

Artwork

The original Polaroid camera may have all but died a death, but the instant prints the technology produced have earned a unique place in photographic history. In the pre-digital days, top pros such as leading Swiss snapper Bruno Bisang used Polaroids to check lighting and composition. Among the top names Bisang worked with are Monica Bellucci, Carla Bruni, Naomi Campbell and Claudia Schiffer, and prints were often signed by the models. This photo for Wolford features Nicole Beach. Bisang kept his Polaroids for posterity, and now a collection of his work dating back 30 years can be seen at the Little Black Gallery – and on our iPad edition. ■ Bruno Bisang: 30 Years of Polaroids can be seen at the Little Black Gallery 13A Park Walk, SW10 0AJ until 9 February.

thelittleblackgallery.com

024

See more PICTUreS on oUr iPad aPP

squaremile.com


London 131-132 New Bond Street


Portfolio

➤ This month ➤

BeoPlay a9 — Bang & Olufsen — MagIc touch Volume control made cool. Simply swipe clockwise along the top of the dish and adjust the loudness to suit.

In the round The BeoPlay A9 is a player, amplifier and speaker in one. Just connect your media and enjoy.

analyst Foot loose On the floor or on the wall, the A9’s compact design means it won’t look out of place anywhere in your home. Apart from perhaps your bathroom.

You could be forgiven for thinking this is some kind of indoor satellite dish. But it’s actually the latest hi-fi creation from Bang & Olufsen. The Dutch masters of cool have always had a reputation for combining style with top-notch acoustics. With the BeoPlay A9,

026

B&O has taken things a whole stage further by crafting it like a piece of designer furniture. It has already won the 2013 IF Design Award. And the A9 is not just pleasing on the eye. Power, poise and precision mean it’s great to listen to, as well. The all-in-one sound system is

easy to use, too. Want to connect your iPhone? Built-in wireless connectivity makes that the mere work of a moment. Need to hike the volume? Just slide your hand across the top of the touch-sensitive dish. What an all-rounder… ■ £1,699; bang-olufsen.com

squaremile.com


Online store www.richardjames.co.uk Shop +44 (0)207 434 0605 Bespoke +44 (0)207 287 9645


Flagship Store, Knightsbridge For further enquiries - 020 7439 2213


portfolio

➤ This month ➤

An end to emAil — By Lee Timmins, senior vice-president, Atos Consulting —

E

mail has rEvolutionisEd working life:

fast, efficient and always on. Perhaps not surprisingly, it has also become a source of frustration. When it comes to digital distractions, email is the primary target for complaints about information overload. Bloggers regularly post tips on how to improve inbox management. Researchers have begun to highlight email’s drawbacks. Companies have been reviewing email for some time – AOL is experimenting with alternatives, while organisations from VW to Microsoft encourage email down-time. Even so, the idea of eradicating its use is met with astonishment – even irritation. When Hootsuite boss Ryan Holmes called for an end to email, the response was overwhelming, and largely negative. Yet, at Atos we have already begun to phase out internal email among our 75,000 employees. The ‘zero email’ initiative announced by Atos CEO and chairman Thierry Breton in 2011 is the first step in a major change programme that addresses the more fundamental issue of work design (or the lack of it) and email’s role in hogging valuable thinking and doing time. Eradicating email is not just a whim. We started by asking how we could enable our employees to do their best work – and what was in the way. Our research found that employees are facing increased workloads, but have fewer resources and no more time to get it all done. In this context, email had become an increasing burden.

WastEd timE Reading messages uses up valuable time and energy. Our research found that one in four people spend 25% of their time on ‘valueless’ email. This is time that could be better spent on ‘real’ work – and employees know it. It is frustrating for staff who care about meaningful work and personal development to fritter precious time on a blizzard of pointless messages.

Bad haBits Most of our issues with email are the result of misuse – managing by email, using it as a tool for office politicking, compulsively checking our inbox throughout the day. In a typical pre-zero email day, we’d turn on Outlook at 7.30am and it would stay on in the background all day. “This is the biggest, baddest reason why email hurts your productivity,” writes Ole Eichorn. Inefficient email use can cost organisations more than £10,000 per employee each year, according to a Loughborough University study.

distraction When Y Combinator investor Harj Taggar deleted email from his phone, he was shocked at the anxiety it invoked. After a few days, he began to feel liberated – and noticed an improvement in his ability to concentrate for long periods. “It feels wonderful,” he says. His experience is not uncommon. According to UC Irvine, being forcibly cut off from email for five days “significantly reduces stress and allows employees to focus better”.

too much information

IllustratIons by Jamel akib

In one week, 300 Atos Consulting employees estimated they had sent or received 85,000 messages. This is unsustainable. Messages tend to get lost or ignored, and senders expect an instant response – which puts pressure on respondents. Worse still, only some 15% of the messages they received every day were considered to be useful – the rest were of little or no value.

squaremile.com

outdatEd Our own research found that younger engineers didn’t use email – a finding supported by comScore data. Even among older users, social media and instant messaging are edging out email. Cloud computing services are set to grow, according to Gartner, and with them, apps targeted at specific work tasks currently dealt with via email.

so What rEplacEs it? Our approach to phasing out email is gradual. We have set up guidelines encouraging the use of telephone or faceto-face conversations, and invested in an enterprise social network (ESN) and a suite of ‘social software’ specifically designed to support collaboration. Cloud-based software such as blueKiwi allows for simultaneous co-working, while video has proven a great way to share client insight among dispersed teams. Longer term, we hope to develop a ‘knowledge bank’ that can be accessed by all. With the ESN, employees can subscribe selectively to the networking groups that apply to them. We are on track to remove internal email by the end of 2013. Getting people to use alternatives is part push and part viral change – and we’re aware of the need to change not just technology, but behaviour. Technology has moved on and email is no longer the best tool for the job. Radical action is what’s needed to break old habits. Ultimately, it’s about encouraging individuals to think about how they structure their working day, the tools they use and how they can make the most of their time. Zero email is the initial aim, because it’s one of the major distractions, but we’re also looking into the idea of ‘zero Powerpoint’ and even ‘zero meetings’. ■ Join the debate: what do you reckon – should we ditch email? Email us at irony@squaremile.com

029


Portfolio

➤ This month ➤

confidence trick — By Robert Kelsey, former City banker —

O

ne prOblem with confidence is that it

involves other people. Sure, we can be confident in front of the bathroom mirror, but once in the office, it’s a different game altogether – especially in the gladiatorial atmosphere of the City. City offices tend to be large, which means strict hierarchies and lots of rivals for every rung of the ladder – a daunting prospect for the under-confident whether on a trading floor or in the back-office. Yet there’s plenty we can do to boost our confidence in the office without the help of others. Here are my top ten tips to help you become a more confident worker…

1. becOme self-aware Under-confident people are obsessed by the impact others have on them. But this shows poor self-awareness, which hands others all the power. Instead, step through the mirror and note the impact you have on others. Observe closely, and you’ll gain a new and empowering perspective.

2. assume yOu’re nOt being explOited Too many people think their time is somehow being stolen – perhaps because they’ve heard X at Bank Y is better paid. And once such an attitude is embedded it’s hard to shift, which kills confidence (even if it’s masked by a scowl). So rather than viewing your job as a drudge – and your role as unappreciated – you should see it as an apprenticeship for the next level, always.

3. be cOnscientiOus Slacking is a one-way street in the wrong direction. It lowers your motivation, undermines your well-being and – ultimately – saps your confidence. So do the opposite: work hard – not for them but for you. Working hard is energising and empowering, which – of course – supports that all-important confidence.

030

4. be future Orientated

9. avOid affected uselessness

Hard work must have direction, however. And that means developing both shortand long-term goals. Look at the next six months for immediate goals, but also develop a plan for the next ten years. We need to think about this in detail. And we need to write it down – thus starting the process of making it happen.

Strict boundaries over job roles can prevent you developing competencies. But too often we demarcate ourselves – reluctant to go beyond our brief. Sure, we may be ignorant of some technicality. Yet there’s the open response, in which we seek help to acquire a skill. And there’s the closed response in which we surrender our competence by mentally crossing our arms and refusing to work until someone puts it right.

5. JOin the dOts Of course, under-confident people can dread thinking too far ahead. So why not think backwards – plotting a series of steps between your desired end-result and your current circumstances? Make it a game – going from back-office assistant to head of equities in just five moves.

6. dOn’t undermine yOurself Self-sabotage is a common trait in the under-confident – perhaps through self-deprecation or by not challenging the more aggressive alpha-types for promotion. There’s no need to adopt their aggression, but let’s get rid of that insidious selffulfilling self-denigration.

10. enJOy yOur JOb Look around an office and you’ll notice that those who enjoy their job are positive, proactive, cheerful and open to suggestion. They also ooze confidence. Meanwhile, those that don’t enjoy their job are guarded, pessimistic, reactive, and grumpy. Behind the scowl, most also harbour deep insecurities. So, decide which side of the divide you’d rather be on – and make sure you do everything you can to get on it. ■ What’s Stopping You – Being More Confident: Why Smart People Can Lack Confidence, and What You Can do About it? by Robert Kelsey is out

7. understand yOur OrganisatiOn Knowing your company or organisation is vital for workplace confidence. Who’s in charge – not just the board but the entire senior staff? Then there’s your sector (equities, fixed income, commodities, etc) – a vertical universe with its own products, history and celebrities. Knowledge is power, as they say – but it’s also confidence.

now (Capstone, £10.99).

8. get yOurself knOwn This is a great use of all that information you’ve gathered – turning names into faces and departments into people. Be nice to receptionists and even security guards. Many have a good handle on the gossip and make better friends than enemies.

squaremile.com


A RACING MACHINE ON THE WRIST

RM 007

www.richardmille.com


portfolio

Objectify

Bonus B u ster

Don’t minD if i Do…

Words

Richard Reed

£1.1m FAIRLINE TARGA 62 GRAN TURISmO

DUNhILL SILk TIES £95

Wearing a bad tie with a good suit is like putting plastic hubcaps on an Aston Martin. Make sure you finish off your look properly with one of these silk numbers from Dunhill – classic in microcheck or polka dot.

dunhill.com

mULbERRy TED cONvERTIbLE LEAThER mESSENGER bAG £895

Swinging by your side or strapped to your back, Mulberry’s versatile Messenger Bag is ready for just about anything.

mrporter.com

▽ For the sake of argument, let’s say you have a Goldman-sized bonus burning a hole in your back pocket, then this sleek new Fairline could be just the ticket – assuming, of course, the taxman leaves you enough leftover. A snip at just under £1,167,000, the Fairline Targa 62 Gran Turismo boasts twin Volvo Penta diesels pumping out 800 horses each. That will take you to a top speed of a shade under 40 knots very, very quickly. However, even at a slightly less manic cruising speed of 25 knots, the Targa will sink around 52 gallons of fuel per hour – that’s over ten hours between refills of the 563-gallon tank. At that speed you could pop across to the Channel Islands for lunch, come back to Poole for afternoon tea, and still have plenty in reserve. (Yup – we actually worked it out.) The Gran Turismo – launched at the 2013 Tullett Prebon London Boat Show, partnered by square mile – may be quick out of the blocks, but a 63-foot boat is also a serious cruising machine. Nothing is spared when it comes to luxury, from the huge master cabin with its en suite heads (that’s toilets to landlubbers), to the deck saloon with electric sun-roof – not to mention the utility area complete with fullheight fridge and washing machine. There are also two huge twin-berth aft cabins. And, naturally, there’s a garage for your Williams jet RIB. Little wonder the Gran Turismo was nominated for the Motor Boat of the Year. A purist might quibble about the lack of grab rails in the spacious interior, and the absence of fiddles – those tiny lips that stop your G&T flying off – on tables and worktops. But then few people buying this British-built gem are See More likely to put to sea in weather that PICTUreS on oUr might ruffle the bikinis on deck. ■ iPAD APP For more information, fairline.com

squaremile.com

033


Objectify Don’t minD if i Do…

Grenson sTAnLeY LeATHer WInGTIP BroGUes £195

WHAT THeY dId AfTer THe CITY...

Brown leather brogues are a perennial favourite – as at home dressed down with jeans as they are dressed up with a navy suit.

esCAPe A rt i s t interview by

EscapeTheCity.org

mrporter.com

#25 sTefAn sIeGeL

▽ “After grAduAting with an MA in International Economics in 2004, I joined the world of finance. I worked for companies such as Ernst & Young and Sal Oppenheim in Switzerland, and then at the Merrill Lynch Investment Banking group in London, specialising in the consumer retail sector, advising publicly listed fashion powerhouses. “I had a wake-up call when I crashed my 1975 Porsche Carrera on a German highway after a decadent weekend at the Oktoberfest. My guardian angel saved me but the car of my dreams was wrecked. While I was at physiotherapy it made me realise there was a lot more to life. I didn’t have a plan when I left: I got my bonus, walked over the Millennium Bridge and threw my Blackberry into the river. “I went on to start Not Just A Label, a designer platform for showcasing and nurturing today’s pioneers in contemporary fashion. We set it up in 2008 to infuse new life into fashion, helping designers gain exposure and finance their progress by providing an easily accessible retailing forum through our online shop. It’s been tough, but we now get 16 million hits per month.” ■ Find out more at notjustalabel.com For more inspiration on what to do after the City,

e mArIneLLA soTToBrACCIo £200

Folding up as a clutch or opening out as a satchel, unisex bags don’t come more versatile than the Sottobraccio by Italian designer E Marinella.

marinellanapoli.it

visit the aptly-named escapethecity.org

034

squaremile.com


WWW.ORIGINALPENGUIN.CO.UK

ABERDEEN | COVENT GARDEN | STRATFORD


Bespoke Unitas 6497 hand-wound movement (Calibre JJ02) from master watchmaker, Johannes Jahnke / Each piece, of only 250, personally assembled by Johannes in our Swiss atelier / Supremely engineered, 43mm, 316L stainless steel case with full diameter transparent case-back / Unique serial number engraved on case and movement Premium Louisiana alligator deployment strap / 5 year movement guarantee


thomaslyte.com 12-13 Burlington Arcade, W1J 0QU


ExposurE

Prime time Style for him Style for her health & fitneSS

. . . .

041 042 055 059

Sand of plenty . 63 PhotograPh by Kin Marcin/red Bull Content Pool


ExposurE

Prime Time

Watches Montblanc

Dark Secret

Montblanc’s latest creation has a hidden talent that only comes out at night. Our watch expert RObin Swithinbank explains

squaremile.com

It’s taken me a little while, but I think I get it now. Montblanc makes mechanical watches. Good ones, too. This tardy moment of enlightenment owes everything to word association. Unless you climb mountains for fun, Montblanc = really nice pens, and has done since 1908, when a banker and an engineer set up the company in Hamburg (yep, despite the snow-capped logo, Montblanc is as French as beer festivals and BMWs). Everyone knows Montblanc is up there with the first names in big-fatcontract-signing implements. But now it’s going all guns to become one of the luxury establishment’s ‘maisons’, which means that as well as pens, it does lots of swanky leather stuff, a natty line in ‘eyewear’, the obligatory range of men’s and women’s fragrances – and proper mechanical watches. Proper being the operative word. All but gone is the time when a luxury brand could buy in a gold case and a quartz movement, slap a logo on the dial, call it a luxury watch and flog it to the nearest unsuspecting billionaire’s wife for the price of a family hatchback. Luxury brands doing watches want, nay need credibility if they’re to cut it – the competition is too good these days. That is why Montblanc has established a foothold in Switzerland and now makes its own mechanical movements on premises in the archetypal watchmaking towns of Le Locle and Villeret. These movements appear in watches like the Nicolas Rieussec Rising Hours launched in Geneva last month (Rieussec is the French watchmaker credited with inventing the chronograph in 1822, by the way) – a monopusher chronograph with a little secret. That secret is in the way it shows the hour, using a rotating disc at 12 o’clock with numerals that turn blue during the hours of darkness. No one’s done the turning blue bit before, which makes the Rising Hours, well, special. Other bells and whistles include the signature rotating disc chronograph indicators, day and date discs, a 72hour power reserve with an indicator on the case back, and a good helping of decorative details – all signs this is a proper watch. As I said, I get it now. ■ Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Rising Hours £21,800 (in red gold).

montblanc.co.uk

041


Style for him

THE PENNY DROPS Penny Loafers can trace their roots back more than 100 years. But not since 1950s America have they been such a shoe staple. Here are six of the best PhotograPhs by DaviD harrison

042

squaremile.com


ExposurE

Worth the tassle: (anticlockwise from top left) Crockett & Jones teign navy loafer, £280, crockettandjones. com; alexander McQueen suede tasselled loafers, £390, mrporter. com; harrys of london Basel blue loafer, £295, harrysoflondon. com; Church’s loafers, £340, mrporter.com; Maison Corthay Yawl blue loafer, £1,090, corthay. com; John lobb, suede tasselled loafer, £680, johnlobb.com

squaremile.com

043


Style for him

StarS and StripeS

From American designer Gant’s pinstriped blazer to Spencer Hart’s classic wool overcoat, Jeremy Langmead and mrporter.com offer some stellar suggestions from their S/S line-up

STOCK PICK By Jeremy Langmead Unstructured blazers are proving to be essential in the wardrobes of welldressed men, thanks to their effortless and versatile appeal. When it comes to successfully picking the right one for you, small details make all the difference. This Gant Rugger chalkstripe jacket, designed to be worn with the matching trousers, comes in a dashing slim fit and is completely deconstructed for a supremely elegant silhouette. Finished with contrasting lining at the collar and cuffs and peaked lapels, the deep navy tone will shine with a burgundy scarf and polished Oxford shoes. gant rugger chalkstripe, wool-blend suit jacket, £400

mrporter.com

044

squaremile.com


ExposurE

1 Band of outsideRs Button-down collaR oxfoRd shiRt, £155 Band of Outsiders was founded by Scott Sternberg, a former Hollywood agent. This classic with button-down collar is a perfect choice to team with chinos.

2

1

6 spenceR haRt wool oveRcoat, £950 Give your cold-weather outfits modish appeal in this City-sharp wool overcoat. Featuring a contrasting velvet collar, this will look as good over a well-cut suit as it does over jeans.

6

2 RichaRd James shaRkskin wool suit, £765 This two-piece suit from Richard James has a distinctive two-tone appearance. Wear it with a pastel shirt and tonal tie for an approachable colour combination.

3

3 unifoRm waRes 250 seRies steel wRistwatch, £390 Inspired by mid-century design, this Uniform Wares watch combines functionality with style. The minimalist exterior conceals a Swiss-made quartz movement.

4

5

squaremile.com

5 BuRBeRRy london plaid sluB silk tie £95 Burberry London’s slimcut tie is a sleek and modern way to lend your City line-up a dose of heritage plaid. Crafted in Italy from tactile slub silk, this will look best with a crisp white shirt.

4 dolce & GaBBana leatheR deRBies, £415 It always pays to invest in footwear, and these Dolce & Gabbana shoes have a timeless design that will go the distance. Crafted in Italy, this pair is a masterclass in discreet, tasteful luxury.

045


my world nICk harT

The harT of The maTTer Nick Hart never thought he’d be a designer, let alone run his own brand – but he turned out to be a natural. Jon Hawkins meets the Spencer Hart boss in, of all places, a bank vault PhotograPh: Billy Ballard

See more PICTUreS on oUr iPad aPP

046

squaremile.com


ExposurE

I

meet NIck Hart, founder of tailoring and menswear brand Spencer Hart, in a bank vault. Admittedly, it’s no longer being used to store cash and bonds – the space has been reborn as the brand’s subterranean VIP mancave, all wooden panels, low-level lighting and piped-through jazz. It’s a sophisticated boy’sown paradise for the sartorially inclined. The flagship store on Mayfair’s Brook Street – a former bank opposite Claridge’s – is the culmination of its founder’s life-long obsession with men’s style and fashion, awash with the cinematic, cultural and stylistic reference points that have made the brand the toast of London’s best dressed men. But it wasn’t always that way. When Hart opened his first store on Savile Row in 2002, his sharp, monochrome aesthetic, inspired by Blue Note jazz record sleeves and the Rat Pack, was far from the norm. “It seems quite obvious now because a lot of the menswear market has gone in that direction,” Hart explains, “but when we opened on the Row we really were out on our own in that little world.” Hart’s interest in menswear began as a teenager. Heavily dyslexic and disenchanted with school – but blessed with ambition, drive and a strong entrepreneurial streak – he started working in a men’s outfitters in his home town of Maidenhead. It wasn’t long before he had created his own brand with two friends (one of whom was called Spencer, as is Hart’s son) importing Italian clothes for a small but growing UK market. “We called the brand Resumé,” he recalls, laughing at the name. “Remember, this was the 1970s…”. He would journey to knitwear fairs in the north of Italy, sleeping on trains to save money, then travel around the UK by coach with a wheelie suitcase full of samples when he returned. Eventually Hart started his own business – NRH – and embarked on what turned out to be a 15-year journey, as a distributor, agent, and consultant for luxury menswear brands. One of these brands was Timothy Everest, for whom Hart was eventually tasked with creating a ready-to-wear range. This led him to launch Spencer Hart on Savile Row, via a well-received but ultimately doomed relaunch of tailoring company Chester Barrie. Through Everest, Hart was approached by Chester Barrie’s ambitious new owner, Richard Thompson, to give the old English brand a new lease of life – creating and designing a range of new products, and selling them into some of the world’s top luxury goods stores. Though he didn’t know it at the time, the seeds for Spencer Hart were already being sown. “Chester Barrie didn’t last long in that

squaremile.com

It soon became clear the obvious route was for Hart to go it alone – something he’d never expected to do guise,” says Hart. “There just wasn’t the money there was supposed to have been.” Speaking to friends and industry contacts it soon became clear the obvious route was for Hart to go it alone – something he’d never expected to do. “If you’d asked me even 12 years ago if I intended to set up my own brand, I’d have said no,” he says, “and if you’d asked me when I was a kid if I would become a designer, I’d have said no. I just wouldn’t have seen how I could have done it.” He set up Spencer Hart on Savile Row in 2002, and admits the early days were “absolutely terrifying”, but even a cursory glance at the men’s fashion galleries from any Hollywood awards season of the last few years will give you some idea just how far Spencer Hart has come – these days the brand is a bona fide fixture of the red carpet. This year, though, Hart’s focus is away from dressing the stars; he’s in the process of securing a private equity deal that will, if all goes to plan, see the brand launch its first store on US soil, in Los Angeles. It’s a move that makes a lot of sense, not least since the Spencer Hart look has absorbed a large dose of the wit and style of American icons (not to mention notorious rogues) like Frank Sinatra, Miles Davis, Louis Jordan and Cab Calloway. “I love the idea of the man who’s always on the back foot, spending too much time on his appearance and chasing women,” Hart explains. “Rascals, basically – men who have to be funny to dig themselves out of trouble.” Hart would remain at the helm should a private equity deal be done, but can he ever see his son – after whom the company is named – running the business one day? “It would be wonderful to create a family dynasty,” he says, “but there’s a long way to go and I have no idea if either of my children would be interested. It would be extraordinary for the two of them to be involved in the business one day, but I want to encourage them to get the most out of life.” It’s certainly a philosophy that’s served Hart well, as Spencer Hart’s stylish army of devotees would surely testify. ■ For more information, go to spencerhart.com

047


See behind the SceneS on our ipad app

048

squaremile.com


ExposurE

THE MEN: (from left to right) Gareth Abbott, Howden Insurance Brokers Limited; Toby Owen-Brown, Wellbeck Group; Hugh Miller, Lloyd & Partners Ltd THE cLOTHEs Gareth: BOss jumper, £169; BOss chinos, £149; BOss white t-shirt, £49; BOss black leather shoes, £279

Toby: McLaren collection by BOss white leather jacket, £699; BOss t-shirt, £45; McLaren collection by BOss jeans, £199; BOss driving shoes, £185 Hugh: McLaren collection by BOss polo shirt, £59; McLaren collection by BOss driving jacket, £249; McLaren collection by BOss jeans, £199

stockist: Hugo Boss 020 7554 5700 THE cAR The McLaren Automotive 12c spider, £195,500. 100 Knightsbridge, sW1X 7LJ; 020 3151 0020; mclarenautomotive.com THE PARTNERsHIP Hugo Boss began supporting

the McLaren Mercedes Formula One team in 1981 – it remains to this day the longest partnership between sponsor and race team. THE sHOOT If you and your team would like to be featured in one of our photoshoots, email

editorial@ squaremile.com

The righT formula Style the firm

The partnership between McLaren and Hugo Boss has existed for more than 30 years. It’s clear to see why… Styling: HUgO BOSS • lOcatiOn: Mclaren aUtOMOtive, 100 KnigHtSBridge

squaremile.com

049


THE MEN: (from left to right) Blair Buchanan, Adam Smith, Charlie Horrell, Howden Insurance Brokers Ltd THE CLoTHES Blair: BoSS suit, £750; BoSS white shirt, £140; BoSS tie, £105 Adam: BoSS suit, £850; BoSS white shirt, £140; BoSS tie, £95 Charlie: BoSS polo shirt, £129; BoSS jacket, £480 Stockist: Hugo Boss 020 7554 5700

050


ExposurE

squaremile.com

051


Royal Exchange Jewellers Specialise In Fine Jewellery And Watches 020 7929 0100 | info@royalexchangejewellers.com Royal Exchange Jewellers, 29A Royal Exchange, Threadneedle Street, London, EC3V 3LP


ExposurE

Style For him

{ SHARP NOTES }

Marc Hare, of Mayfair shoemaker Mr Hare, is the first subject for our new column, where we ask fashion experts to share their style principles

on my wrIst: I have a Rolex Submariner, which I’ve owned for 14 years. I’m saving up now for a Vacheron Constantin Historique Ultrafine 1968 – the round one. Crazy thing is, I’ve just got into checking the time on my iPhone.

In my Hand: I have a purple Montblanc pen which my former mother-in-law bought me. I love that pen. Every important Mr Hare document ever has been signed with it.

proportion of my later life bumming around some hot islands on my own boat.

In my past: I live in London, where the only way to get around is by scooter. Back in September 2012, the very week I opened my Mayfair store, some little rasshole stole my Vespa LX50 from outside my house.

on my agenda: One of Britain’s greatest

In my sIgHts: I’ve had the same laptop since

on my travels: Here is my packing list:

2007 when I started Mr Hare; it’s a black MacBook. It’s quite slow now and is due an upgrade but I feel I’d be ditching an old friend for a shiny new one. Oh well…

passport, driving licence, credit card, toothbrush, swimshorts, flip flops. My swimshorts are Orlebar Brown and my flipflops are Rainbow. Everything else you can buy when you get there.

In my wardrobe: Last season I got a Rick Owens big black gangster T-shirt made from heavy cotton drill. Who would have thought such a basic item could be so powerful? When ever I am not feeling a suit I reach for the Ricky T and team it with some low-crotch Givenchy pants and a Ricky or Margiela long sleeve and I’m Straight Outta Compton and ready for anything.

on my buCket lIst: I’ve recently become obsessed with the Caribbean and am on a personal mission to see every island. In the past two years I’ve done Jamaica, St Lucia and Barbados. Next up are Dominica, Cuba and Anguilla. I did the surfing, snowboarding, action stuff when it was age-appropriate, so now I am happy with a Daquiri and sunbed. ■

In my dreams: A 50ish-foot sailing yacht with

To see images from Marc Hare’s Sharp Notes, please

two-to-three berths. I intend to spend a large

download the square mile iPad app from the App Store.

Ask the boss How Can I dress to beat February blues? often called the cruellest month, don’t let February’s bite get the better of you. Heavy accessories are key in the battle against frost – chunky snoods, thick knits and calfskin gloves are the only way to beat the chills. layer your way to warmdom and bring wintery grey and black looks to life by teaming with outsized accessories in vibrant shades. Colourclashing frivolity will help banish away winter’s grey shroud. the brighter the better – electric neons are hot this spring, so embrace your wild side with vibrant yellows and fiery orange shades to add a zingy futurism to any outfit. Careful if you’re pale skinned, though – steer clear of super brights if this is the case as they can be draining on light skin. If you’ve managed to get some winter sun and retained a tan for Feb then do it right – make it bright. ■

hugoboss.com

suits. He has two cuts: one is sharp and slim, and the other is a little more classic and suave. Depending on what time of year it is I fluctuate. The closer to Fashion Week and the more stressed I am, the slimmer the suit.

modern sculptors, Bill Turnbull, passed away just before Christmas. This was very sad news to all who knew him but one silver lining from this is that a major retrospective of his work is in the pipeline, I believe either at The Tate or the ICA in 2013. More than anything, I’m looking forward to this.

on my radar: I am a big fan of Mr Start

See more PiCtUreS on oUr iPad aPP

To see Marc Hare’s footwear, please visit mrhare.com.

squaremile.com

053


For TickeTs visiT londonFashionweekend.co.uk


ExposurE

Style for her

city StyLE cOUNSEL

Maria Grachvogel has gone from City trader to leading fashion designer. With London Fashion Week about to get under way, she talked to LOREN PENNEY about her career – and offers some style advice

F

rom city girl to international trendsetter,

British fashion designer Maria Grachvogel swapped trouser suits for diamondstudded dresses – and hasn’t looked back. Grachvogel was the youngest person to pass the London Stock Exchange exams at the age of just 17 and went into the world of finance to earn enough money to start her own fashion business. A wise move, as today she is a globally recognised designer, showing twice a year at London Fashion Week. “My entrepreneurial spirit combined with my natural love of fashion inspired me to leave the safety net of the financial world,” she says. “But really, I started my business even before I had left. Not happy with the workwear choices available, I started making my own clothes for the office and others began to take notice.” Grachvogel firmly believes that London is still the world’s style capital. “Across many fields – art, music, media, design, technology – there is a lot of innovation and excitement coming out of London,” she says. Grachvogel is certainly flying the flag for British fashion, and having dressed A-listers such as Victoria Beckham, she says Emily Blunt and Tilda Swinton are now top of her hit list: “I love strong, confident women.” What makes her designs so appealing is their versatility. Her collections are created to flatter women of all shapes and sizes – her socalled ‘magic trousers’ are a must for anyone looking to achieve a streamlined silhouette. “If there is one thing the Square Mile woman should invest in it’s a great-fitting pair of trousers,” Grachvogel says matter-of-factly. Who better to take advice from? ■

fashion statement: (clockwise from top) maria Grachvogel, pictured, has dressed a-listers such as Victoria Beckham and emma thompson; Perdita colour block crepe dress, £825; anatase stratosphere print satin dress, £995

See more PICtUreS on oUr iPad aPP

Maria Grachvogel is showing her AW 2012/13 collection at London Fashion Week from 15 February. For more info, see mariagrachvogel.com

Not happy with the choices available, I started making my own clothes for the office and others began to take notice squaremile.com

055


The collecTion

Valentine’s Day Gifts: curated by the ROYAL eXChANGe

◀ The shOe

▲ The Rings

+ CROCkeTT & JOnes newquay shoe, £300 This casual, threeeyelet Derby design from Crockett & Jones is set off by bright orange laces and is one of the finest hand-made calf shoes made today.

+ OMegA Aqua rings, white gold £2,130, rose gold £1,620 The elegant Aqua collection, with its marine theme, comes in a variety of widths to suit every occasion.

Crockett & Jones, 25 The Royal Exchange, EC3V 3LP; 020 7929 2111

Omega, Unit 8, The Courtyard, The Royal Exchange, EC3V 3LQ; 020 7929 7706

▶ The COlOgne

+ JO MAlOne lOndOn earl grey and Cucumber Cologne £38 (30ml) A burst of bergamot with cool cucumber over a layer of beeswax, and vanilla – it smells good enough to eat. Jo Malone London, 24 The Royal Exchange, EC3V 3LP; 08701 925 131

▶ ▶ The BOx

+ sAge BROWn Fine leATheR box, £545 A secret compartment marks out this elegant two-tiered jewellery box, which features precision hinges, a suede lining and a silver lock and key. Sage Brown Fine Leather, 31 The Royal Exchange, EC3V 3LP; 020 7283 2444

056

squaremile.com


ExposurE

▼ ThE PEn

+ mOnTBLAnc Albert Einstein Limited Edition 99 pen, £19,656 The stunning design for this fountain pen was inspired by worldfamous physicist Albert Einstein. Crafted from solid white gold, it is

covered with a skeleton net with a filigree overlay representing the space-time curve. Production is limited to 99 – the atomic number of the element named after him. Montblanc, 10-11 The Royal Exchange, EC3V 3LL; 020 7929 4200

▲ ThE PERFUmE

+ PEnhALIgOn’S Artemisia, £68 (50ml) The perfume is caramel soft, sweet and silky; a tumble of green apples and nectarines with honeyed vanilla and warm spices. Simply delicious – and surely the perfect gift for Valentine’s Day.

ENGAGEMENT DINNER

Penhaligon’s, 4 The Royal Exchange; 020 7623 3131

SAUTERELLE & BOODLES, £6,250

▶ ThE chOcOLATE

▲ ThE WATch

+ PAUL A YOUng Chocolatier Paul A Young makes some of the most exciting flavours you’ll ever taste. Ginger Pig black pudding truffle with ginger biscuit and beer, anyone? They have to be tasted to be believed.

+ ROYAL ExchAngE JEWELLERS Rolex Daytona cosmograph, £15,500 This Daytona in 18ct yellow gold is only eight years old but has everything that marks out an iconic timepiece – looks, class and an outstanding movement.

Paul A Young, 20 The Royal Exchange, Threadneedle St, EC3V 3LP; 020 7929 7007

squaremile.com

Royal Exchange Jewellers, 29A The Royal Exchange; EC3V 3LP; 020 7929 0100

In the run-up to Valentine’s Day, Sauterelle restaurant and Boodles fine jewellers are joining hands to offer a dazzling dinner menu – a luxurious six-course meal served up with a 1.5-carat diamond engagement ring to finish. The menu will be available from 7-21 February 2013. The stunning tasting menu will be served alongside a beautiful Boodles vintage Ashoka-cut diamond ring for a fairytale ending to a romantic dinner. The menu is also available without the ring, priced at £55 with a glass of champagne. Sauterelle, The Mezzanine, The Royal Exchange, EC3V 3LR; 020 7618 2483

057


The true alternative to liposuction

The establishment for trusted laser lipolysis in London The London House, Midford Place, 114-115 Tottenham Court Rd, London W1T 5AH 020 7387 3883 | info@londonhouse.uk.com | www.londonhouse.uk.com


ExposurE

HealtH & Fitness Pod

In pod we trust Tim Hall founded healthy fast food chain Pod in 2005 – there are now 23 outlets across the City. This is how he did it… ✱ On starting a healthy fast food revolution

Today, you can walk into any shop anywhere in England and see the words ‘health’ and ‘nutrition’ written all over the walls, but only five years ago Pod was the only business doing that. People were looking at us cockeyed, wondering what we were up to. At that time the prevalent lunch of choice was full of mayonnaise, butter and sugar; at Pret à Manger, or even Marks & Spencer, it was very unusual to find something that was low fat, low carb and contained superfoods. The change away from that has been very quick and dramatic, across the marketplace. ✱ On staying ahead of the competition

One of the issues you always face if you’re a pioneer in a particular marketplace is that the next guy can just come along and copy exactly what you’re doing. We always knew that was likely to be the case, and that if we made a big success of Pod it would be widely copied. However, we thought customers would reward us for our pioneering stance, but if there’s another place that’s just as good and closer to their office they won’t reward you every day. So we’ve invested a huge amount in innovation and recipe creation.

One of the issues you always face if you’re a pioneer is the next guy can just come along and copy what you’re doing squaremile.com

✱ On beating the imitators

There’s no doubt Pod’s been very widely emulated, but I’m delighted – a world in which we are the sole flag-wavers for healthy food would be a lot harder. We benefit because very few brands, if any, actually do it with any integrity. They talk about having a healthy range, but it’s usually in amongst a sea of relatively unhealthy sugar- and salt-laden food. Customers are becoming more aware of health and are feeling more let down by brands that espouse a health message but don’t actually do it properly, because it’s very expensive. That attracts them to Pod, because if they look at our product range they’ll see the extent to which healthy food is within our DNA. ✱ On funding the rise of Pod

I raised about half a million pounds in 2004-5 through business angels and a bit of bank debt. I had no background in catering so it was a punt on me, really – does this guy look like the sort of person who could get this thing

going? I have run businesses before and it was definitely the most difficult funding I’ve done. ✱ On the biggest mistake new owners make

For the first five years I spent around 50% of my time solely on fundraising and managing investors and shareholders. You don’t just raise the money and then get on with running the company. One of the biggest mistakes a lot of wannabe entrepreneurs make is thinking a great idea is enough, because a great idea alone is less than half of what it takes to set up and run a successful company. ✱ On the future for Pod

The potential for Pod is huge, and we’re only really at the beginning – 23 shops sounds like a huge amount, but Nando’s has over 1,000 outlets in Europe, and there are 40,000 Subways. I’ve always believed healthy fast food is the next big thing in the sector, and I’d like to think we’ll end up being the leading brand for a long time to come. ■

059


ExposurE

HEALTH & FITNESS PERSONAL TRAINER

A MArAthon, not A sprint Training for a marathon? Then cut down on the miles and head for the gym. It may sound like heresy, but it works, says Tim DrummonD

R

unneRs love Running. “Well, obviously,” we hear you say. Footballers love football, golfers love golf. But runners, and specifically long-distance runners, tend to love running at the expense of everything else. Training to do a marathon is a mammoth task. In the run-up to race day it usually takes over your life for several months. The majority of marathon training plans will have you out

on the road five-to-six days a week, every week, until the big day. The marathon runner’s mantra is ‘you need miles on the road’. This advice is regularly bandied around the running community, and no matter who you are, how busy you are, how little sleep you get, what your diet is like, or how fundamentally resilient your body is, you are still encouraged to run almost every single day. Strength training is usually as foreign to a marathon runner as zumba is to a body-builder. We are here to tell you that if you are planning on training for a marathon, you need to start lifting weights, and you need to start now. Being stronger makes you more efficient and less likely to have an injury. You need to be as strong as you possibly can be to take on the mammoth task of running for 26.2 miles, so combining your running with strength training makes good sense. So why are marathon runners so resistant to lifting weights in their weekly routine? One reason is time.

Ask MAtt RobeRts... Fitness advice: sKiinG

What do I need to be concentrating on to get fit for skiing? Mobility, so our joints can take the stresses and strains of hours in a flexed position; leg strength, to give you the ability to cope with the reactive power of twists and turns; endurance for holding fixed positions as you gather speed; and lastly, core strength to maintain alignment through the movements without negatively impacting the knees or hips. My muscles often feel tired when I ski – what can I do to get fitter? do some aerobic activity so you can cope with long periods on your skis. Whether that is running or a long hilly walk, it will condition your body for the endurance. try to aim for one long aerobic session each week, interspersed with a couple of shorter, 30- to 40-minute sessions. I hear that many ski injuries come from poor mobility. Is this really true? it is a good idea to work on flexibility in your key moving joints – hips, knees and back. do this at least four or five times each week, and when you are skiing start and finish each day with some stretches. take a small foam roller to help massage the muscles at the end of the day. mattroberts.com

1. Run less The most common excuse for failing to weight-train is that there are just not enough days in the week. To gain the race time you desire, your aim should actually be to run as little as possible while reaching your desired cardio fitness. Less is definitely more. For most runners, four sessions a week is the optimum number. This frees up more time for other training. With this new-found spare time, take up weight-lifting. And the great thing about strength training is it doesn’t fatigue you in the same way that running long slow distances (LSD) can. By strength training, we specifically mean lower reps and higher weights with bigger rest periods – that’s what will get you stronger in the shortest possible space of time.

4. get advice fRom a PeRsonal tRaineR

2. go foR a stRength-tRaining Routine

Make use of your valuable time by getting a professional to help you. ■

060

3. aim foR two 30-45 minute sessions a week One can be on the same day as a shorter cardio session – just make sure it’s at the other end of the day so you have time to recover.

For more training advice, call Tim Drummond on 07823 697 605; liveleanpt.com

squaremile.com

IllustratIon by adam larkum

Not a bodybuilding or ‘metabolic’ type programme. A good strength-training

programme should concentrate on big compound lifts and working the major muscle groups such as the legs, back, chest and shoulders. LSD cardio is a massive stress on the body’s recovery systems. So by getting stronger leg, core and upper-body muscles, you will become a more efficient runner, and put less stress on the body.


Innovation. Inspiration. If ever a professional home training tool can provide the inspiration to help you discover your true potential, it’s KINESIS PERSONAL. The ultimate in design, it’s a revolutionary cable system that frees you to re-discover fundamental physical abilities: endurance, balance, strength and flexibility. Over 200 exercises in all.

Designed by Antonio Citterio

Take the first step and discover our complete range of cardiovascular, strength and movement products on line. Visit www.technogym.com or call free on 0800 316 2496 to speak to one of our consultants.


STAGES 77 STAGES

VENUES 77VENUES

EN OP

77 DAYS DAYS

E AS PH

T H E • C7 HTIMED A N L STAGES L E N G E • I7SVENUES ON 7 DAYS

RY

THE CHANLLENGE IS ON

NT

TM

E AL FIN

HAUTE ROUTE

THE HIGHEST AND TOUGHEST CYCLOSPORTIVES IN THE WORLD. THE HIGHEST TOUGHEST CYCLOSPORTIVES ARE YOUAND TOUGH ENOUGH FOR IN THE WORLD.

The Highest And Toughest Cyclosportives In The World 20,000M VERTICAL ASCENT* • 800KM CYCLING 20 LEGENDARY COLS • 600 DETERMINED AMATEUR RIDERS • AGAINST THE CLOCK Interested in the HAUTE ROUTE 2014? A limited number of spaces are avaliable for Square Mile readers to pre-book. Email: contact@hauteroute.org Quote Ref: 2M0123

HAUTE ROUTE ALPS 18TH - 24TH AUGUST 2013

HAUTE ROUTE PYRENEES 1ST - 7TH SEPTEMBER 2013

VISIT: www.hauteroute.org FOR MORE INFORMATION www.hauteroute.org | contact@hauteroute.org Up for the HAUTE ROUTE 2014? Email contact@hauteroute.org for more info, Quote ref: 2M0213. LIMITED SPACES AVAILABLE. * equivalent to cycling from sea level to the summit of Everest more than twice!


ExposurE

See more PICtureS on our iPAd APP

Lucky 2013?

Adventure dAkAr rAlly

The Dakar rally tests the limits of man and machine over a gruelling 5,000 mile route. We tracked the mixed fortunes of Red Bull rider Kuba Przygonski

squaremile.com

The bike category of the rally was won by Cyril Despres. For more images, download our iPad edition from iTunes.

redbull.com

PhotograPh by Kin Marcin/red Bull Content Pool

KicK up a storm

If at first you don’t succeed, ride, ride again. That was certainly Polish biker Jakub ‘Kuba’ Przygonski’s attitude towards last month’s Dakar Rally. KTM rider Kuba has had a tempestuous past when it comes to the 5,000 mile race, the most demanding rally in the world. In 2012, he had to pull out in the middle of the Argentinian desert with a blown engine. The previous year he had a violent training accident on 13 December which stopped him from being able to compete – he was due to be wearing the number 13 tabard. Fortunately for him, 2013 didn’t prove to be so unlucky. He came 18th overall out of a field of 196 riders. Perhaps he has found it easier to focus this year, after a rumoured split from his girlfriend Marcelina Zawadzka, Miss Poland 2011, shortly before the start of the race. ■

063


Rallying the market

square mile on your iPad now The City’s best magazine just got better: download it from squaremile.com/app


features

SuitS & the City the Sauvage Side Keep it CaSual Style awardS

. . . .

066 070 076 082

Fix up, look sharp . 82 PhotograPh by David harrison; StYLINg: mrporter.com


Features

066

squaremile.com


Less Is More

post-financial crisis, power suits in the city are Definitely out. restraint is now the orDer of the Day, says Josh sims

L

ook aLong the rails at Bishopsgate tailors Eveleigh & Read at the bespoke suits partway through being made, and one thing is striking. While there may be the occasional nod to more fashion-friendly tailoring trends – a closer fit, a shorter jacket, a narrower lapel in the 1960s mould – for the most part they embody a traditional Britishness. The silhouette is classic: waisted, broad in the shoulder but not obviously so, full in the chest – as utilitarian 50 years ago as it probably will be in 50 years’ time. The cut is, too: single-breasted, two-buttoned, sometimes three-piece; the fabrics are worsted wools, lighter weight than our grandfathers wore, but

squaremile.com

substantial all the same. And, tellingly, most of them are pin-stripes. Big ones at that. “We have even started advising clients to dial up on their fabric choice, because a stripe on a cloth sample can be much quieter in the garment,” says head tailor Paul Read, who works with employees at the likes of nearby HSBC, RBS and Coutts. “And most clients want that traditional financial business look very clearly again. “It’s all about getting back to basics for bankers now,” Read adds. “With the downturn there is a renewed awareness of the need to dress for business again. When the recession began we started getting more and more calls

from employees at self-proclaimed ‘dressdown’ firms who were finding themselves sitting next to empty chairs – and with the sense they might be next to go. Suddenly nobody wanted to stand out. They wanted to get back into traditional attire again. And nothing too trendy – that only mitigates against being taken seriously.” That will be music to the ears of some who believe City dressing is, thanks to the impact of American casualisation, in crisis in a way that may even damage the international standing of London as a financial hub. When UBS introduced a 44-page document in 2011 outlining employee dress codes down to the ➤

067


Features

If you’ve been sold some toxic stuff by a guy in a flashy suit, you don’t want see that again ➤ smallest detail, it was roundly mocked – to the point that the code has since been moderated. But arguably it was prescient. “Over the last 10 years, dressing in the City has increasingly become a shambles,” says Boyd Bowman, chairman of Spitalfields-based shirtmaker and tailor Alexander Boyd. “There’s been a dramatic shift from the very formal to the too casual that the City has yet to recover from, though thankfully that is gradually happening now. The image of British banking abroad is still one of pinstripes and bowler hats – and while bankers might not wear that in so obvious a way any more, it is still a characteristically British look that gives banking here a certain credibility, and, as insignificant as it might seem on the surface, it’s something the City can’t afford to lose. The finance world is about seeming to be dressed properly – it’s part of the process of networking that the City relies on.” Even dressing down is dressing up. If Italian men have long been able to abandon the full suit without slipping into three-quarter length combats and flip-flops, at last the Brits of London banking are learning how to wear a patch-pocket sports jacket and the kind of shirt that doesn’t require a tie. “Even in those banks with a dress-down policy, you can’t get away with a sweater and trousers now,” reckons Russell Howarth, owner of Graham Browne tailors, based off Cheapside for the past half century. “Bankers here are catching up on Continental men now because they’re really feeling the need to smarten up, even for those days when they’re told they don’t have to.” But surely there are limits to the return to the classic banker style, beyond the need for refreshed formality, before it becomes a stereotype? After all, even Wall Street’s Gordon Gekko – for much of the public the archetypal banker – was a fantasy, all giant shoulders, fat-knot tie and slicked hair, a look that rarely made it beyond your local estate agent’s. Director Oliver Stone actually took costume designer Ellen Mirojnick to task with his concern that nobody in banking dressed the way her designs suggested.

068

Her reply? “It’s a movie. And they’re all going to look like it.” And, lo, contrast-collars and red braces – her choice for the villain of the piece, ironically – entered into the more brash bankers’ wardrobes. According to John Hitchcock, managing director of tailors Anderson & Sheppard, the shift in City dress has been from expressions of moolah to modesty, in no small part because even the big swinging dicks – for whom the flashier style of dress was once the preserve, emulated by the grunts if they dared – are now recanting with a reborn conservatism. “There is more and more demand for subtlety,” he says. “All those big ties, high collars, expressions of excess, anything showoffy is out. Those days are gone. There is an awareness of the need not to rub money in others’ faces in that 1980s way. That said, there is still an element of status play in the quality preferred. A vicuna overcoat, for example, is very expensive, even if you can’t really tell it’s not wool unless you’re right up close.” “There was a sense that, back in the 1980s and early 1990s, tailoring was more about an extreme silhouette, which somehow suggested that your suit was more important than the business at hand,” suggests Davide Taub, senior cutter for Gieves & Hawkes. “Now it’s more about finding sharp lines, harmony, and the classic tailoring emphasis on fit. That’s coming from the top. A lot of my banking clients are at the level of owning the bank – and what they are rediscovering is a very English look. That’s their priority – understatement. They leave anything more daring to their second or third suit.” In fact, it seems your senior banker could now belong to any other profession – “it just happens to be a particularly well-dressed one”, reckons Adam Saunders, founding partner of the Mulsanne Partnership, a recruitment firm specialising in high-level banking. He says that increasingly, recent years have seen his clients retrench in a classy if anonymous uniform: bespoke suit, monogrammed shirt – “probably from a trip to Hong Kong” – standard issue Hermes or Ferregamo tie, and tidy Crockett & Jones-style shoes. Yes, an element of display remains. “Banking is a business that is based on a degree of testosterone and there is still a cosmetic expression of that,” Saunders says. But banker style has changed in line with banking. “In part it’s a practical

response – bonuses are smaller, the numbers aren’t as high and there’s more need to prioritise the likes of mortgages,” he says. “But you also have to remember that it’s the clients who have been at the bitter end of the recent banking experience. If you’ve been sold some of the toxic stuff that’s killed your pension by a guy in a flashy suit, you don’t take kindly to seeing that again.” It’s dress to suppress. For all that some may be returning to the pin-stripe – originally worn by bankers with their frock coats, each bank having its own house stripe – now may not be a good time to wear one’s banking credentials too boldly on one’s sleeve. As in Seattle, so in London in 2009, the police advised financial workers to avoid ‘dressing like a banker’ on their way to the office so as to avoid possible confrontation with G20-type protesters. Maybe a softer, less power-suited, more relentlessly classic image is needed. “You certainly don’t get demand for what you might call the cartoon banker look any more,” says Jonathan Becker, director of tailors Couch & Hoskin, which has been operating in the City since 1908 and gets much of its clientele from Lloyds of London. “The publicity of late means most in the City are keeping a low profile. It’s never been considered good form to wear a suit of lights. The very occasional bright lining aside, City tailoring is about underplaying rather than over-playing one’s job and position.” Indeed, if the choices for self-expression in City-appropriate tailoring are limited and largely hidden, that is not to say it has gone altogether, which perhaps comes as relief to some. Look less to the power suit as to the power cuff: it is in the accessory – the links, maybe the shoes and certainly the watch – that the one-upmanship is still rife. Bizarrely, that infamous UBS style guide recommended that employees always wear wristwatches to “signal trustworthiness and a serious concern for punctuality”, rather than, their true purpose in the smartphone age, of denoting one’s success. And even here the emphasis is now on the more low key: less the action-man watches for screen jockeys, statement timepieces that, as Saunders notes, “just feel so wrong now”, more the slimmer, dressier, plainer, classic pieces. As in one’s suit, less is now more. Less earns more. And it’s a few rungs closer to the top. ■


Suited and booted up

square mile on your iPad now The City’s best magazine just got better: download it from squaremile.com/app


Features

070

squaremile.com


Real

Men

Don’t Go to

Fashion

shows He skis witH rappers, runs His business witH a tV star, and makes suits for tHe Hollywood elite, but adrien sauVage’s take on tHe fasHion business is refresHingly down-toeartH. Mark Hedley meets tHe man

squaremile.com

071


MUAZO Individual Fashion & Design

DePaRTmeNTS Apothecary ◆ Bags ◆ Eyewear ◆ Headphones ◆ Homeware ◆ Gifts ◆ Publications ◆

Pocket Squares ◆ Scarves ◆ Stationery ◆ Ties ◆ Wallets ◆ Watches

www.muazo.co.uk |

@Bemuazo |

FaceBook.com/Bemuazo


BRING HEAD ON TOP Features

By making the wive’s wardrobes immaculate, the husband’s looked like shit in contrast It’s all about when it’s relevant. If I haven’t got anything to say, I just won’t say it. Even with London Fashion Week, for example – I really would like to support it, but unless there’s a whole structure and facility behind it, then we can all advance and help each other. I’d prefer people to see the product and let it speak for itself, rather than me having my face all over everything, wearing my own clothes everywhere, and looking like how a designer is expected to look. ✱ Which celebrities have you dressed recently?

✱ How’s business? Did you think it was a bold

move launching a high-end company of this nature in the middle of the recession? I don’t really read many newspapers or magazines, so that’s probably why I wasn’t that scared. When we opened up in 2010, we realised within the first two weeks that the business would be very appointment-based: it was not a case of waiting for people to walk into the store. From the beginning, we haven’t served the most obvious clientele, either. We began making suits for people who don’t normally wear them. That’s flipped on its head now, as the real City ‘suits’ are now coming in. ✱ So what do you have for the City, then?

In every collection we’ve had the fundamentals for a City suit. Beyond that, we like to think we have the basics for what every guy needs. It’s important to remember the weekends. You wear that suit all day every week, so it’s then a question of asking, “who am I?”. The brand allows people to communicate who they are when they come out of work, too. With A Sauvage, they have something that wraps up their whole lifestyle.

where you reduce the amount of risk and know what works for you. It’s about alternating your look with a palatte that says, ‘I can wear this jacket as a separate, or with a suit, or with chinos and a shirt.’ When you’re packing for a trip it can be a nightmare – ‘What am I going to put in there?’. With Sauvage, you should be able to get two or three outfit combos out of just two pieces. So then you can dress easy and not worry about the small stuff. You can be in a country and then get on with your actual job – what you’re there to do. ✱ For those who don’t know the brand, define

its signature look Casual elegance. The real signature is in the cloth and the cut. We don’t skimp on materials – much to the dismay of my bank manager. I make those sacrifices because I believe men should have those things. It may be a case of using horn buttons on a suit, or mother of pearl on a shirt – and they could be the smallest buttons – but they’ll still be engraved A Sauvage – and people can see that attention to detail when we make our products. ✱ You rarely grant interviews – thanks for

✱ Explain your ‘Dress Easy’ philosophy

It’s an approach to your everyday wardrobe –

squaremile.com

seeing us, by the way – when do you decide to publicise yourself and push your brand?

Every week it changes. Last week, I was with Mos Def and we went skiing; he introduced me to Swizz Beatz [Alicia Key’s husband] who called me up and wanted me to make him a jacket. We’ve just made some suits for Jude Law, too. But what makes us different is that we don’t dress these guys just for an event and then never see them again. They’re part of what I call ‘friends of the house’. So they’ll come in and tell us about what’s going on, and we’ll collaborate and work together and create interesting pieces. I’ve made some pieces up for Dwyane Wade, the Miami Heat NBA All-Star. He’ll then pass me onto another teammate who’ll want to be picked up with the same style. It’s great to have such a dynamic client base. ✱ Are you looking to expand your current line?

I’d love to make some luggage – some Dress Easy luggage. I know that I’m going to start making my own shoes, after the coverage I had with Dr Martens. I’m not looking for more collaborations right now, though – I’d rather focus on just making a superior product. ✱ How did you start in the industry?

I started as a stylist – but I wasn’t initially styling men. I was dressing ladies-that-lunch. What I realised by making their wardrobes immaculate, was that their husbands looked like shit in contrast. There was a real imbalance. So I’d speak to the husband and say, “come on, son – we’ve got to go shopping”. I’d take them to the stores and realise that when it comes to fashion, the ➤

073


Since 1914, the taste of elegance www.marinellanapoli.it

Naples ✦ Milan ✦ Lugano ✦ London ✦ Tokyo 54 Maddox street London W1S 1AY | +44 (0) 207 493 42 10 | marinella@marinellanapoli.co.uk


Features

I started my brand to bridge the gap between classic and fashion – A Sauvage was born ➤ drastic fits of some brands, for example, would not work for an older guy. On the flip side of that, going into a traditional tailors, I felt the communication was very out-dated. If you explained to them where you went out, they wouldn’t necessarily have heard of it or know what the place was; they wouldn’t be listening to the same music as you, either. It’s quite dissociated – that you could put a lot of trust into someone who doesn’t actually have the same interests or sensitivity as you. I started my own brand to bridge the gap between classic and fashion. A Sauvage was born; I made up a capsule collection and Harrods bought it straight away. But people still didn’t know who I was. So I started photographing interesting people – people who didn’t even wear suits. And I started directing short films [This Is Not a Suit ran at the Sundance Film Festival]. Real men don’t go to fashion shows – so it was all about how I could communicate to them on different platforms. Platforms where there are real people wearing my clothes, so you can realise, ‘oh, that guy’s cool – he’s a real person, not a model’. I wouldn’t shoot models, but rather captains of industry, or ‘natives’ – what I call ‘unsung heroes’. That’s the way the brand was developed and communicated.

Box fresh: (clockwise from main) Anthony Joshua, olympic Gold heavyweight Boxing Champ dressed in A sauvage; the Menswear for Women range; Dwyane Wade, Miami heat NBA All-star in an A sauvage suit

✱ How did TV presenter George Lamb come to

be your business partner? It was just before George started presenting Big Brother’s Little Brother. We’re both 6ft 5, so we kept seeing each other at events. One evening, he came up to me and said he really liked my style and asked me to help him out with dressing for the show. I took him as a Community Service project, really. I knew he couldn’t afford my service at the time, but I liked his look and thought, ‘I can give this boy a bit of my style’. So I styled him for TV – I was lending him my clothes, and he started becoming recognised for his style. When I went to see his agency, they all thought I was copying his style. I realised the world was learning his style rather than mine. I actually kind of enjoyed that, which is why I don’t do much press. George is a great ambassador and

squaremile.com

has been a really good partner since then, and a really good friend at the same time. ✱ What’s next for you and the business?

We want to grow in other markets. We’ve just taken on a sales agent and are going to be in very selective stores around the world. We’re also going to start working on skincare – as I’m originally from Ghana, I want to implement the raw ingredients from the country and get them involved. I’m also developing my Menswear for Women range: we’ve coined the phrase. It means we’re going to give women an

alternative – an access to a man’s working wardrobe. It’s perfect for women in the City – so they can be one of the guys; rather than just one of the girls in a suit. ✱ In your film This is Not a Suit, you ask: “How

can you lead a country if you don’t know the way around your own wardrobe?” Do you think David Cameron knows his way around his? I’m sure he has people for that. In the film, I was making the point, how can you be in the zone if you can’t get dressed properly? Worse than that, people won’t even trust you. ■ For more information, go to sauvage.com

075


Features

076

squaremile.com


Gift Garb of the

WHAT cOuld lOOk mORe sOPHIsTIcATed FOR THe mAn-AbOuTTOWn THAn An ensemble OF TWeed jAckeT And GRey WOOl TROuseRs? MANSEL FLETCHER FROm mRPORTeR.cOm InTROduces FIve TImeless clAssIcs FROm THe WORld OF cAsuAlWeAR

S

artorial elegance iSn’t restricted to suits. Casualwear can look just as chic – providing, of course, the right choices are made when it comes to mixing and matching…

tWeeD JacKetS

PHOTOGRAPH Agence France Presse/Agence France Presse/Getty Images

This country staple has been revamped and now looks as good worn in town on a date as it does in a field with a Purdey. Given the relaxed nature of modern dress codes, men’s clothes must be versatile, and few items are as versatile as the tweed jacket – one of 20 items we believe that every man should own. Need to dress up for a client meeting? Put on a tweed jacket, a shirt and tie, a pair of grey wool trousers and some brown suede shoes. Going on a date? Put on a tweed jacket, a white T-shirt, a pair of slim jeans and some desert boots. A walk in the country? Put on a tweed jacket, flannel shirt, corduroy trousers and a pair of Wellingtons. You get the idea. Like a Land Rover, a robust tweed jacket can go almost anywhere, and like a Land Rover, a tweed jacket is a British design classic. However, as for how to wear one in a contemporary manner, we suggest the American Ivy style. This look involves chinos,

squaremile.com

Oxford cloth or chambray button-down shirts, and brown loafers or desert boots. The French actor Sami Frey [pictured left with Brigitte Bardot], best remembered for his role in the 1964 film Band à Part, proved that a tweed jacket is capable of giving a man an air of such consummate sophistication and that it could be worn to squire the world’s most beautiful woman around Paris.

the SWeatShirt The sweatshirt is a casual wardrobe staple. But don’t just take our word for it – almost every designer has produced a version of this cotton knit. The sweatshirt was invented in the early 20th century for athletes. Russell Athletic of Alabama in the US is often credited with its creation. In 1926, the firm’s owner developed a cotton sweater for his son to wear for football practice, which was lightweight and less itchy than the woollen jerseys the team wore. The new garment took off, and sweatshirts came to be worn by athletes while they warmed up before competitions. The smooth surface meant they could be printed with team emblems, as they still are to this day. The reinforced ‘V’ underneath the round

collars of most sweatshirts was traditionally there to absorb sweat. Now that sweatshirts are just as popular with the less athletically inclined, the ‘V’ is largely decorative – often simply created using stitching. However, the traditional webbing can help keep the collar in shape, just as the ribbing on the cuffs and waistband of many sweatshirts maintains a close fit, even after repeated wearing. Thanks to their hard-wearing nature and the ease of movement they afford because of their raglan sleeves, sweatshirts soon became popular with mechanics and labourers as well as sportsmen, and have made the transition into workwear – a style that draws on the heritage of what US workers used to wear. However, it is the sweatshirt’s inclusion in the preppy, collegiate look that has done most for its style credentials. As Ivy League students started to wear their sports team sweatshirts with chinos and button-down shirts, they became a key part of the Ivy look. Sweatshirts can be worn in a number of different ways. Staying true to their athletic roots, consider teaming one with shorts and high-top sneakers for an edgy urban look. For something smarter, slip one over a casual ➤

077


Features

➤ shirt, worn with tailored trousers or chinos and a blazer. A sweatshirt in place of a knitted sweater makes an outfit look sportier and less formal, creating an interesting contrast against more structured tailoring. Naturally, sweatshirts are great paired with jeans. Pick a pale, faded pair and add a pair of Converse for a James Dean-inspired look. Since the sweatshirt is a simple, unfussy item there are few major pitfalls to avoid when it comes to wearing one well. It is, however, always worth avoiding loose, overly baggy sweatshirts, unless you want to look like a fitness instructor from a 1980s home workout video. And for the same reason, under no circumstances should they be worn tucked into jogging bottoms or any other type of trousers. The key to wearing the humble sweatshirt well is to remember that it is an inherently casual item that needs to be matched with a similarly easy-going attitude.

Always avoid any overly baggy sweatshirts, unless you want to look like a 1980s fitness instructor

PEACOATS

078

TIMELESS CLASSICS: Robert Redford wore a peacoat throughout the 1970s movie Three Days of the Condor, while Butch Cassidy co-star Paul Newman, above, makes the sweatshirt look simultaneously cool and macho

THE SHAWL-COLLAR CARDIGAN Despite the military career of the Seventh Earl of Cardigan, Lieutenant General James Brudenell, it is his sartorial legacy, the cardigan, that lives on from the 19th century and has seen his title become part of everyday parlance. Legend has it that the Earl invented the style because he wanted a sweater he could put on without tousling his coiffed hair. A more charitable explanation is that the jacket-style knit became popular after ➤

squaremile.com

PHOTOGRAPHS (Newman) Sunset Boulevard/Corbis; (Redford) Ron Galella/WireImage/Getty Images

With a popped collar and buttons flashing, this nautical number is the perfect winter warmer. Although it’s a bold assertion, there is truth in the statement that no man looks bad in the right peacoat. With its military origins, flattering cut and balanced design, this style of coat is a dependable wardrobe classic that has remained in fashion for decades – and is unlikely to go anywhere soon. The first recorded mention of a peacoat in the Oxford English Dictionary dates back to 1717, so it’s safe to say this style of doublebreasted wool coat has a long history. There are several accounts of how the peacoat got its name. Among the most plausible are that the word is derived from the Dutch pijjekker (referring to a coarse wool garment that labourers wore in the 18th century) or that it is a deviation of ‘P-jacket’, an old military term for the type of jacket worn by a ship’s pilot, or navigator. The terms ‘reefer jacket’ and ‘officer’s coat’ are sometimes used to refer to the peacoat, affirming its naval origins. Modern peacoats, which are double-breasted, cut short in the body and with broad collars, are derived from coats issued to US Navy personnel in the 1940s. These were based on the longer wool coats that British sailors had worn since the 1850s. Features such as the double set of buttons spaced apart (which were less likely to get caught in ropes on a ship) and the high collar to keep out the elements also hint at the peacoat’s maritime heritage. Unlike double-breasted blazers, which generally look best worn buttoned-up, the peacoat can look good worn unbuttoned, too,

thanks to the way it hangs. That said, there is something pleasing about wearing a peacoat fastened all the way to the top, as it brings to mind the sense of polished military style and good posture which is synonymous with its naval background. Continuing the seafaring theme, a striped Breton top is always a good partner to a peacoat. Forget the peaked cap, though, unless you’re going to a fancy-dress party. In Paris, a peacoat worn with a button-down shirt, a crew-neck knit, slim navy jeans and suede desert boots is something of an autumn and winter uniform among stylish guys, and it’s not difficult to see why. The key to getting this look right is to ensure that everything fits well and is cut fairly close to the body: oversized peacoats can dwarf you, so you should think rakish, not wrinkled, and streamlined, not saggy. Of course, riding a moped while smoking, with a Ms Lou Doillon type perched behind, doesn’t hurt in achieving the Parisian look either. The peacoat falls somewhere between smart and casual, but generally speaking it is best not worn over a suit or for more formal occasions. It can, however, be an excellent cold-weather alternative to a suit jacket or blazer when teamed up with tailored trousers and a shirt and knitted tie. The versatile peacoat can also be easily dressed down, and looks perfectly at home with a T-shirt, jeans and sneakers. What’s more, all types of knitwear go with peacoats (other than double-breasted cardigans – you don’t want to overdo the DB look), as do wool and corduroy trousers, and even chinos.


Smart. Spread bet with City Index and take advantage of tax-free gains*. Maybe it’s time to look into an investment that fits. Find out how with our VIP service. www.cityindex.co.uk/smart

* Spread

betting is exempt from UK Capital Gains Tax. However, tax laws are subject to change and depend on individual circumstances. Please seek independent advice if necessary.

Spread bets and CFDs are leveraged products & can result in losses exceeding your initial deposit


Features

The unique blend of rakish style and comfort has won the shawl-collar cardigan legions of fans ➤ the Lieutenant General and his officers wore a similar garment during the Crimean War. Either way, the cardigan has since become a wardrobe staple, and for that we thank the Earl – as well as Ms Coco Chanel and the Ivy League look – for playing a formative part in its history. The exact point at which the cardigan met the shawl collar, originally found on Victorian smoking jackets, is unclear, although early examples of this hybrid style date from the 1920s. Since the smoking jacket was originally intended to be worn in the home, and the cardigan is largely concerned with comfort, it is a natural marriage. Furthermore, the smoking jacket association means that shawl-collar cardigans have a certain louche air about them, banishing the fusty image once associated with button-up knitwear. The unique blend of rakish style and comfort (and the fact the elongated collar frames the face flatteringly) has won it legions of fans. From Starsky and Hutch to Daniel Craig, by way of Steve McQueen and Paul Newman, the shawl-collar cardigan has become a style icon in its own right.

KNITTED TIES

080

For more style advice, see mrporter.com

squaremile.com

PhotograPhs (Connery) rex Features; (McQueen) Mgm/Filmways/the Kobal Collection

No longer the preserve of university lecturers, these are now a neat modern style staple. Knitted ties are characterised by their textured, loosely woven appearance, absence of a lining (hold one up to the light and it will shine through) and slightly springy feel. The French term cri de la soie, which translates as ‘the cry of silk’, is sometimes used to describe the crisp, crunchy sound that knitted ties make when they are squeezed in the hand. Most have blunt ends (as opposed to the pointed tips found on conventional neckties), and can be knitted from both silk and wool, with the latter best suited to autumn and winter. From Ivy Leaguers and the silver screen to runway shows, the knitted tie is a stylish and often underrated wardrobe component – one that will add individuality to your look while keeping things classic. Knitted ties are at the less formal end of the neckwear spectrum and can be deployed to

STYLE ICONS: Sean Connery, seen here on the set of Dr No in 1962, wears a silk grenadine tie with effortless aplomb, while below, Steve McQueen poses with a shawl cardigan in The Cincinnati Kid

dress down a suit or to dress up a casual outfit. You wouldn’t wear one to a board meeting, but they come into their own when you are off duty, for example teamed with a button-down shirt, chinos and a blazer at a casual wedding. They are perfect for ‘smart-casual’ dress codes – when you want to wear a tie but suspect others may not: you won’t be overdressed, even if everyone else is without a tie. They are also great for travelling, as they won’t crease. A block-colour knitted tie works well with a patterned shirt. The most appropriate knot for knitted ties is the basic four-in-hand. The textured surface (as a result of the knitted fabric) means that any chosen knot will be noticeably larger than on a conventional silk tie. With this in mind, it makes sense to use the smallest type of knot to avoid the unappealing overstuffed look. Don’t be afraid to tighten the knot firmly to achieve a desirable size. Also, the slightly asymmetrical shape of the four-in-hand knot complements the less formal nature of the knitted tie. Since they are less formal, knitted ties can be worn slightly shorter than their regular counterparts (they need not quite reach the waistband), and also with the rear blade longer than the front blade for a carefree, individualistic look. The open weave of knitted ties makes them more susceptible to stretching, so they should be stored rolled up rather than on a hanger. Some manufacturers make knitted ties slightly shorter than their regular ties to account for the small amount of stretch that will occur even with proper care. As Michael Hill of Drake’s puts it, “There’s a touch of sartorial audacity in a silk knitted tie”. Keep this in mind when putting together an outfit. Consider wearing the knot slightly loose, or having the rear blade longer than the front one. Knitted ties can add a touch of sprezzatura to your look. They are also great for adding texture and visual interest, and block-colour ties go with most shirt and jacket patterns and combinations. A knitted tie, for instance, unites a tweed jacket and a tattersall shirt, without having to find a tie in a third pattern that will match. Knitted ties bear a passing resemblance to grenadine ties, but the two types should not be confused. Grenadine ties are textured like knitted ties, but to a lesser degree. Their weave is tighter, and they have an interlining as well as pointed ends. This means that grenadine ties are more formal than their knitted counterparts, and they can be worn in most situations where you would wear a standard silk necktie except, perhaps, the most formal. ■


Proud supporters

AUTHORISED DETAILER

Whoever said that it’s rude to stare? From our modern central London studio, or our fully equipped mobile unit, using only the finest handmade products, we offer owners of cherished classic, modern performance or prestige cars a comprehensive range of detailing services which will have others looking on in envy. Please contact us for impartial detailing advice or to arrange a free consultation. Seeing really is believing. www.bellissimoto.co.uk

[1952 PORSCHE PRE-A CABRIOLET: 92 HOUR CORRECTION DETAIL ]


Features

squaremile

S t y l e A wA r d S We need your help to find the most stylish people in the city. take a look around your office – maybe it’s even you? nominate on squaremile.com to have your say Styling: mrporter.com

T

his February, we are launching the

square mile Style Awards, celebrating the most stylish people in the City Do you work with a modern-day dandy? You know, the guy at work who can actually pull off those short trousers that make most people look like they’re dressed for the first day of school. Or perhaps there’s a lady in your office who looks more St Tropez than St Mary Axe? Then nominate them now online – and start voting. All you need is a photo – how you get that is up to you. Vote for the City’s most stylish workers on squaremile.com/styleawards

Suit up: Look 1: DoLCE & GABBANA Martini slim-fit wool-blend suit, £1,065; CANALi duck egg classic collar shirt, £130; BuRBERRY LoNDoN plaid slub silk tie, £95; DRAkE’S Dancing Steps pocket square, £45; Look 2: pAuL SMitH slim-fit wool suit, £895; RiCHARD JAMES classic shirt, £125; tHoM BRoWNE houndstooth check wool tie, £145; DRAkE’S silk polka dot print pocket square, £50 Look 3: RiCHARD JAMES fine-wool suit, £765; RiCHARD JAMES classic shirt, £125; DRAkE’S tussah silk tie, £115; REiSS Abyss pocket square, £20 (reiss.com) ALL pRoDuCtS fRoM: mrporter.com

squaremile.com/styleawards 082

squaremile.com


squaremile.com

083


Your diary just got a lot busier

squaremile.com is the social hub for the City. Visit now to get involved.


assets

Motors technology FooD & DrInK golF clubs

. . . . .

086 090 093 095 105

Hitting tHe g spot . 86


086

squaremile.com


Assets

Motors Mercedes

Back on the wagen

Its old-school design may divide opinions, but when the going gets tough the Mercedes G-Class is in a class of its own, discovers Mark Hedley

W

hat do GWen Stefani, Patrick Dempsey and Brad Pitt have in common? Sure, they are all wealthy, successful and sickeningly beautiful. But they also share a love for the same car – the Mercedes G-Class. If there’s one thing the G-Class can’t be called, it’s sickeningly beautiful. In fact, when I arrived home in one this Christmas, some family members of a more sensitive disposition suggested just “sickening” would be more apt. I disagree. A better word would be epic. The G-Class has real presence – in the same manner as a power station or a suspension bridge. Or a punch in the face. But I certainly wouldn’t say the G-Class was ugly, though. From the humble Barbour wax jacket to a pair of 18-hole Dr Martens, the utilitarian look works in fashion – so why shouldn’t it translate to the motoring industry, too? The G-Class proves a car can put the funk in functional. In more than 33 years, it has changed little in the looks department simply because it doesn’t have to. In fact, it’s the longest produced Mercedes-Benz in Daimler’s history. Development started as far back as 1972, when the Shah of Iran – a substantial shareholder in Mercedes at the time – suggested the company should make a military-grade vehicle. Roping in the expertise of Austrian manufacturers Steyr-Puch (now Magna Steyr), testing took place in the harshest conditions the world had to offer, from the scorching heat of the Sahara to the brutal cold of the Arctic. In fact, it wasn’t until 1979 that the first Geländewagen (as it was originally known) rolled off the production line. To this day, the so-called G-Wagen’s look is just as uncompromising as it was back then.

It’s about the only vehicle on the road that can make a Defender question its sexuality squaremile.com

In fact, additions such as its bulging arches, meaty running boards and a more aggressive radiator grille make it beefier than ever. With its archaic recirculating-ball steering mechanism, even the driving experience is a macho affair – there’s none of this selfcorrecting nonsense; you have to coerce it into a straight line. It’s so manly that it’s about the only vehicle on the road that can make a Land Rover Defender question its sexuality. Inside, though, is another story – one of refinement and poise. Sure, it’s still a functional beast. There’s a giant passenger grab handle for when the driver gets a bit excited going over speed bumps, but it’s lined with heavy-grain leather. There are chunky switches, but they control things like the heated seats or the Harman Kardon Logic 7 surround system with Dolby Digital 5.1 and 12 speakers. And yes, the dash lay-out is still a bit agricultural, but it’s lined with Anthracite poplar wood trim. The whole affair is a bit like Arnold Schwarzenegger wearing a velvet smoking jacket. Which could happen, as Arnie already owns a G-Class, too. It really does feel like one of the safest places to be. Not only are you mounted on a ladder-frame chassis which is more than 4mm thick in places, and you look down upon just about every other motorist outside of an 18-wheeler, but when you shut the weighty doors it sounds like you’re closing an ancient tomb. Drive on and the auto-locks slam shut like the armoured bolts of a Stockinger safe. I’m the first to admit that, in pretty much every incidence, the modern SUV is overqualified for its role. When are you going to need three fully lockable differentials in the Waitrose car park, right? But this Christmas, crossing a countryside hit by some of the worst floods of modern times, the G-Class really came into its own. It can traverse up to 60cm of water – that’s more than a Defender, by the way. And those differentials, that are so easy to dismiss along the Embankment, really prove their worth when you’d be otherwise scrambling for grip on real riverbanks. The G-class offers so much confidence in this ➤

087


Assets

A small, satisfied breath of steam was exhaled; it felt as if the car was smiling – I certainly was ➤ department that, if you’re a big kid like me, you’ll find yourself accelerating towards fords, rather than slowing down for them. With water flying across the windscreen, the auto wipers kicked in so you could keep powering through. Out the other side, a small, satisfied breath of steam was exhaled from beneath the three louvres in the grille. It felt as if the car was smiling – I certainly was. You might also find yourself aiming at potholes rather than avoiding them, and taking the term ‘speed bump’ a little more literally than the law would prefer. Unlike conventional independent suspension systems, when a wheel of the G-Class rolls over a bump, the live axle housing is automatically lifted with it, ensuring a less jarring experience. There are two models at present – the 3.0-litre V6 turbodiesel G350 Bluetec version which comes in at £82,970 on the road, and then a 500hp, 760Nm 5.5-litre V8 AMG model weighing in at a hefty £123,140. The former can manage 500 miles on one tank of fuel whereas the latter, well, can’t – but it can hit 0-62mph in 5.5 seconds. Buying a G-Class can probably never be considered a sensible option (unless you live half-way up Everest, perhaps). But the Bluetec engine is certainly the more sane of the two, returning a pretty respectable 28mpg, on a good day. It’s no slouch, either – despite a relatively modest 209bhp. Regardless of what you think about the G-Class (if my family are anything to go by, it’s a Marmite affair) there’s no denying one thing: it’s exclusive. Not solely to the realm of Hollywood stars, but not far off. One banker friend of mine loves to show off that he has one of only three AMG models in Switzerland. I always presumed he was exaggerating, but then again, when was the last time you saw a G-Class? Less than 6,000 road-going G-Classes were made in 2012 – just 101 sold in the UK. You also need to have a sense of humour to drive it – the G-Class is a little silly, a lot fun, and a proper event (especially if you take it too fast into a tight corner). It’s also a truly unique proposition: part Tonka toy, part army truck, part Stormtrooper – it’s total madness. And that, of course, is its genius. ■ For more info, go to mercedes-benz.co.uk

088

squaremile.com


SCORPION SPORTS CARS ■

FULLY STREET LEGAL SCORPION 3 WHEEL SPORTS CARS NOW TAKING ORDERS! • • • • •

Only need car license to drive 75MPH top speed 4 stroke 250cc water cooled engine 4 speed manual + reverse 14” wheels

£6,000 • • • •

7 colour choices plus custom paint service available Cars come with 6 months road tax Finance availble Insurance through Adrian S Flux

WWW.SCORPIONSPORTSCARS.COM | 07588 510197 |

MICHAEL576@BTINTERNET.COM


Assets

TeCHnology moST WanTed

[ M o s t Wa n t e d ] We set out to find the perfect marriage of minimalist, retro looks and cutting-edge technology. Job done. RichaRd Reed reports

See more PICTUreS on oUr iPad aPP

apps Best for style

MR PORTER This free app allows you to browse more than 170 leading menswear brands, with weekly trend updates, style help, and the ability to buy directly from your phone. So don’t use it after a few drinks.

THe HeadPHoneS ▶

+ BoWerS & WIlKInS P3, £169 If you’re serious about sound, then these ’phones are for you. Designed to give the most natural possible sound from a small set of speakers, the P3 has a unique damping system to balance stiffness with flexibility. And those fabric covers aren’t just for looks, providing perfect acoustic transparency. Easy on the eye – and the pocket, too.

POSE Pose lets you follow influential bloggers, brands and celebrities, giving you real-time updates on what they’re wearing. You can then buy those styles or share with friends (if you’re into that).

bowers-wilkins.co.uk

STYLEBOOK Want to know what new clothes work with your existing ones? This app allows you to import your own clothes onto a canvas to compare new purchases. Visualise your outfits and design magazine-style layouts. ▲ THe ComPUTer

+ HammerHead Hmr989, £1,837 Architect and race-car engineer Matthew Kim was fed up with boring boxy

090

PCs, and designed a desktop that puts the technology firmly up front. The HMR989 has an Intel Core i7 3.4GHz CPU and 4GB of RAM. Game on. darwinmachine.com

▲ THe Camera

+ FUjIFIlm XF1, £499 This stylish retro camera from Fujifilm looks every inch the part. Meticulous attention to detail

oozes from every pore. With 4x optical zoom and 11 creative filters, it has everything the semiserious snapper could wish for. fujifilm.com

squaremile.com


Accuracy. Precision. Authenticity. Excitement.

Absolutely.

absolute sounds ltd.

International Distributors & Consultants of Specialised Hi-End Home Audio & Video Systems 58 Durham Road, London, SW20 0TW T: + 4 4 ( 0 ) 2 0 8 9 7 1 3 9 0 9 F : + 4 4 ( 0 ) 2 0 8 8 7 9 7 9 6 2 W : w w w. a b s o l u t e s o u n d s . c o m E: info@absolutesounds.com


THE WORLD’S BEST HI-FI

KJ WEST ONE | 26 New Cavendish Street | London | UK | W1G 8TY T: 0 2 0 7 4 8 6 8 2 6 2 | i n f o @ k j w e s t o n e . c o . u k | w w w . k j w e s t o n e . c o . u k


Assets

Wine Bordeaux

The chosen few…

The 2000 Bordeaux vintage is so impressive that 2001’s offering is often overlooked – but it’s a hidden gem, says Mark Hedley

E

For those of you who have studied your vintage charts, you’ll wonder, why 2001? squaremile.com

uropEan FinE WinEs has carved a niche

in searching out bargains where bargains rarely exist. So, that would be Burgundy and Bordeaux, then. It’s clearly pulling it off, too: it was recognised last year in the Sunday Times Fast Track 100 as one of the fastest growing companies in the UK. In a recent tasting in the Stafford Hotel’s crypt-like cellars, I discovered exactly how it’s managing it – by choosing intelligent wines that aren’t necessarily the obvious choices. The evening was a celebration of the 2001 vintage in Bordeaux. For those of you who have studied your vintage charts, you’ll be wondering why it decided to do that, exactly. With the superstar 2000s stealing all the limelight, the next couple of years became relatively overlooked. Indeed, the reds were underwhelming on first release. But it’s only in the last few years, after loving care in the right cellars, that the 2001s are really coming good. The trick is knowing exactly which ones to choose. And you can’t do that without understanding the weather. The French summer of 2001 was noteworthy for its September deluges. The later-ripening grapes of cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon were both hit by these – resulting in a weak showing from both Graves and Médoc, and an inconsistent performance from St Emilion. However, venture to Pomerol and it’s a very different story. The merlot-dominated wines here shrugged off the late rains, and there are some exciting and some exceptional results. Our runners-up from the evening were Château La Conseillante (£80 per bottle) and Château L’Evangile (£85 per bottle). Both classic clarets, the former is awash with mushrooms, vanilla and cassis whereas the latter has a refined, smoky elegance. It was Château L’Eglise Clinet that really stole the 2001 show, though. At £135 a bottle, it isn’t cheap. But tasting alongside a Haut Brion at more than twice the price proved just how complex and rewarding it really is. There’s no doubt 2001 was a great year – you just need to know where to look. ■ For more information: 020 3236 0100; efwines.com

CHIVAS 18 PininfArinA Limited edition 1, £80

Pininfarina may be better known for designing ferraris – or, if your ambitions are less lofty, the Peugeot 406 Coupé – but the italian design house is now turning its considerable skills to a very different arena of the luxury market. Whisky, to be precise. odd, you might think. But then to paraphrase a certain well-known advertising slogan, this is no ordinary whisky – this is Chivas regal whisky. Chivas has been producing luxury whisky blends since 1908 – all renowned for their rich, smooth flavour. Pininfarina also has a distinguished pedigree, with its design heritage dating back to 1930. So perhaps it’s not so surprising that the two brands have blended their expertise together to produce a limited edition version of Chivas 18. the elegant case is designed to echo the shape of a streamlined drop of liquid, and evoke the sense of movement with which Pininfarina has always been associated – while the blue colour hints at the metalwork that underpins the company’s engineering pedigree. A wood veneer inside the case, meanwhile, symbolises the oak barrels so crucial in the whisky’s ageing process. for £360, there is also a version that includes two whisky glasses. ■ chivas.com

093


water changes everything. charitywater.org


Assets

RestauRants Cut

AmericAn evolution The aptly-named Cut takes the steakhouse to new heights of excellence, says jon hawkins

M

y first seMinar as a biology undergrad

was an inauspicious start to say the least. Asked to discuss the evolutionary adaptations of a creature of my choosing, I spewed forth on the great white shark; the ultimate hunter, a predator perfectly adapted to its role and environment. Except it isn’t. “There is,” the professor spat with barely disguised disgust, “no such thing as perfect adaptation or evolution.” He was right, of course, so I’m hesitant to say Cut is the evolutionary pinnacle of the steakhouse. But it comes very, very close. Launched in autumn 2011 by US celebrity chef Wolfgang Puck, Cut is the culinary hub of 45 Park Lane – smaller, edgier sister to the nearby Dorchester. At its heart, a high, narrow dining room lends a Pullman-carriage intimacy to the experience, albeit a carriage with Damien Hirst butterfly paintings on the wall. But you’ll forget all about the surroundings once the food arrives. So immersed were we in our selection of starters – from tiny Kobe sliders and steak tartare on slices of brioche, to crisp cones filled with spiced tuna Big Eye – they could have flipped the room upside-down and shaken it and we’d barely have noticed. Better still were the steaks, paraded lovingly in front of us by the helpful (and numerous) waiting staff before we make our choice. My corn-fed USDA prime sirloin

PHOTOGRAPH by Niall Clutton

My better half’s filet mignon was so meltingly tender it could have been cut with a breeze squaremile.com

from Kansas, served with a wasabi-yuzu kosho butter and a side dish of cute little wild mushrooms with Japanese shishito peppers, was charred to a perfectly thin crisp on the outside and intensely flavoured inside. My better half’s petit cut filet mignon (also USDA prime) was so meltingly tender it could have been cut with a gentle breeze. I’ll never know how we found room for dessert, but such food demands resourcefulness, and we attacked a spectacular chocolate soufflé as if it were the first plate of the night. And we weren’t alone. Even on a crushingly bleak Monday evening in January, Cut was packed to the rafters – which, given this isn’t exactly austerity eating, is quite something. Puck’s clearly onto something – call it evolutionary thinking, perhaps. ■

Red caRpet dining Wolfgang Puck is no stranger to the Hollywood awards season, which should come as no real surprise given he’s been top dog on the LA restaurant scene for years. The Austrian chef has catered for the stars after the Oscars for the past 18 years, and this year you can get a taste of silver-screen glamour in Mayfair. An Academy Awards-themed menu will be available from Cut at 45 Park Lane from 22 to 24 February (the night of the ceremony itself), with highlights including Oscar-shaped flatbread with smoked salmon, caviar and crème fraîche. 45parklane.com

Cut, 45 Park Lane, W1K 1PN; 020 7629 4848

095


Luxury Stationery since 1797

LON DON 路 MU N ICH WWW.PRANTL.COM 路 IN F O@PRANTL.COM 路 020 7349 7225


Assets

golf Can RoRy Repay nike’s faith?

THE PlayEr

PhotograPh by andrew redington/getty Images

’Tis the season of big money transfers, and not just in the world of football. Golfers are hot property among global brands, and none more so than 23-year-old Rory McIlroy, the undisputed world No 1 – projected by many observers to be the ‘face of golf’ for the next decade. The freckle-faced lad from Northern Ireland has just been snapped up by Nike following a lifelong relationship with Titleist, and the dual Major winner was Swooshed to the max when he got his new season under way at the HSBC Abu Dhabi Championship on 17 January. The reported $200m ten-year contract clearly makes little financial sense to most golf brands, but Nike is not like most golf brands. It’s still seen as a clothing and footwear brand by most golfers, despite having been producing golf clubs and balls for more than a decade. Golf has never made up more than 4% of Nike’s overall revenues, so the marketing team at its Oregon HQ is hoping McIlroy will help those numbers move steadily north in the coming years. Nike, and the golfing world in general, has desperately needed another star since Tiger Woods spoiled his marketability with his off-course shenanigans. And while McIlroy is clearly the world’s best golfer, he’s no Tiger. Despite his relationship with Danish tennis star Caroline Wozniacki, Rory will never garner media attention in the same way that Tiger has done, and will continue to do. His wide-margin wins at the 2011 US Open and 2012 US PGA Championship, and his aggressive style of play, speak of an outrageous talent that has won legions of fans, and his lead-from-the-front performance in the Ryder Cup suggests an old head on young shoulders. Whether he has the star quality to help Nike shift more gear is doubtful. The bigger question is how he will perform with the new kit. The world is waiting. ■

squaremile.com

097


INTROducING exTReme dIsTaNce. F U L LY A D J U S T A B L E . F U L LY L O A D E D .

B R I N G . I T. O N . PHIL MICKELSON

4 -T I M E M A J O R C H A M P I O N


©2013 Callaway Golf Company. Callaway, the Chevron Device, Forged Composite, RAZR Fit Xtreme, OptiFit and Speed Frame are trademarks and/or registered trademarks of Callaway Golf Company. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners.

LOWEST CG OF ANY ADJUSTABLE DRIVER. Forged Composite™ Crown

FASTER BALL SPEEDS FOR MAXIMUM DISTANCE. Speed Frame™ Face

GREATER RANGE OF ADJUSTABILITY. Optifit® Adjustability

We took the fastest face we’ve ever made, combined it with an incredibly low CG (centre of gravity) and then added full adjustability. The result is the most distance we’ve ever seen and we think the most you’ve ever seen. In fact, players with higher swing speeds saw an average gain of 13 yards with a maximum of up to 25 yards. See how at callawaygolf.com/xtreme

Claim based on player testing with a 440CC clubhead against the top five market share leaders; TaylorMade Rocketballz, TaylorMade R11s, Callaway RAZR Fit, Ping G20 and Titleist 910 D2, with average gains of up to 8.7 yards in total distance. Source: Golf Datatech through Sept 2012 – Top Five Market Share Leaders, Dollars


Assets

Golf Column

Golf’s last shot at survival

Golf clubs must adapt to the changing needs of their customers if they are to avoid putting themselves out of business, says Nick Bayly – and players must use their local clubs if they want to keep them

F

ollowing a year that broke all known records for dampness, a double-dip recession, and the fact that golf is just one of an increasing number of leisure activities competing for our time and money, many UK golf clubs are standing on the edge of a financial abyss as we enter the new year. For some there has been nowhere to go but down and out, with several venues already having called time at the clubhouse bar. The past few months have also seen a rash of activity in the property market, with half a dozen golf clubs being sold at knock-down prices, while countless others remain up for sale or have been mothballed. Many of the new breed of buyers are ‘lifestyle purchasers’ – wealthy amateur golfers who enjoy the kudos of owning their own golf club, rather than possessing any deeplyheld belief that they’ve bought themselves a potentially profit-making business. Like the football club-owning oligarchs who enjoy burning £50 notes by the millisecond, running a golf club is increasingly becoming a pastime for the rich and famous, and not one for a group of like-minded amateurs who fancy a Saturday roll-up and the occasional game of bridge on a Tuesday afternoon. Sadly, these white knights of golf aren’t in huge supply, and more loss-making golf clubs will inevitably go to the wall or, as is often the case, get bought up by property developers and turned into retirement villages for exgolf club members, if the economy – and the weather – doesn’t pick up soon. It’s a far cry from just 15 years ago, when the Royal & Ancient Golf Club issued a plea to build 700 new courses in the UK to meet

Golfers that rely on their local club but only play the odd round might be in for a big shock 100

the needs of a generation of golfers who had grown up sleeping overnight in their cars in order to bag an early weekend tee time. Apart from the obvious side-effects of the recession, one of the main reasons clubs are struggling is their failure to adapt to their members’ needs. Many are still relying on inflexible annual memberships for the bulk of their income, which are falling out of favour with a new generation of golfers who like to play their golf on a more ad hoc basis. Faced with a hefty four-figure outlay at the beginning of the year, it’s no wonder so many members are choosing to cancel their subs and opt for pay-and-play. While giant strides are being made to attract more women and juniors into golf, it’s men who make up the bulk of members – mainly retired men, if my local club is anything to go by. These old boys often play three or four times a week, eking every last ounce out of their membership, while the time-pressed City worker who manages 25 rounds a year

ends up forking out upwards of £50 a round for the very same privilege. The ‘pay-and-play’ concept needs to be introduced into more private clubs to stop this nonsense of weekend golfers subsidising those who play every day of the week. While joining fees have disappeared from all but the most popular clubs, we’re entering a new era of two-for-one memberships and half-price green fees as a matter of course at many clubs, all of which have been forced into cutting margins to boost turnover. However, this headlong dive into indiscriminate pricecutting is not sustainable, and cannot be good for the long-term health of the game. Of course, clubs need to invest in facilities and be attractive destinations, but they can only do that with a strong supply of customers. So my advice in 2013 is to use your local golf clubs or prepare to lose them. Golfers that rely on their local club but only play the occasional round might be in for a shock one day when they turn up and find it closed. ■

squaremile.com


Europe’s largest golf travel company

5★

Turnberry

Ayrshire, Scotland 2 Nights’ B&B & 2 Rounds of Golf Stay at: Turnberry Hotel Play at: Ailsa Course, Kintyre Course

1 in 8 Stay & Play FREE

Old Head Links

5★

Cork, Ireland 2 Nights’ B&B & 2 Rounds of Golf Stay at: Old Head Links Play at: Old Head Golf Links

Luxury Suite Accommodation Turnberry Ayrshire, Scotland

5★

Abu Dhabi

7 Nights’ B&B & 4 Rounds of Golf Stay at: The Westin Abu Dhabi Golf Resort & Spa Play at: 2 x Abu Dhabi Golf Club, 1 x Yas Links GC, 1 x Saadiyat Beach GC

Home of HSBC Championship

FROM

£775

FROM

£379

FROM

£319

5★ Ria Park Hotel Algarve, Portugal & Spa 3 Nights’ B&B & 3 Rounds of Golf Stay at: Ria Park Hotel & Spa Play at: Royal Course or Ocean Course, Quinta do Lago North Course & Quinta do Lago Laranjal Course

The Algarve’s Finest Courses

FROM

£395

Sawgrass Marriott 5★ Golf Resort & Spa

Abama Golf & Spa Resort

Florida, USA 7 Nights’ B&B & 4 Rounds of Golf

Tenerife, Spain 7 Nights’ B&B & 5 Rounds of Golf Stay at: Abama Golf & Spa Resort Play at: Abama Golf Club

Play at: 1 x THE PLAYERS Stadium Course, 1 x Dye’s Valley Course, 1 x Ponte Vedra Country Club, 1 x Sawgrass Country Club

Home of The PLAYERS Championship

FROM

£995

Includes buggies and range balls

FROM

5★

SAVE

£225

£1399

Call us on 0845 543 6673 - we’re open 7 days a week or visit All prices are per person, subject to availability based on two sharing for travel on selected dates throughout 2013. Terms and conditions apply, see Golfbreaks.com for more details.


Assets

THE CoursE THE KiT callaway goes to xtremes

catalan King for a Day

102

Callaway Golf RAZR Fit Xtreme driver, £329

callawaygolf.com

Got £12,000 to burn from your bonus? How about owning a golf course for the day? You often hear about boutique shops closing their doors to the public to allow A-list celebrities to buy their handbags away from the prying eyes of the paparazzi, but a golf resort in Spain has taken this concept to the next level by offering exclusive access to its facilities regardless of their A-list status. And by exclusive, yes, you’ll be the only person playing the course that day (along with up to 23 of your friends or colleagues). The Millionaire Golf Day – which actually costs just €15,000 – is being offered by PGA Catalunya Resort in northern Spain, and comprises chauffeur-driven transfers from Barcelona or Girona Airport to the club (helicopter rides are available for an extra charge), where you will be given exclusive access to a section of the club’s clubhouse. After picking up a goody bag (Pro V1 balls, towels and tees), players can avail themselves of a 30-minute lesson from one of the club’s PGA pros, or practise at their leisure on the tour-standard driving range in preparation for taking on the mighty Stadium Course.

As well as being home to the final stage of the European Tour’s Qualifying School in December, the Neil Coles-designed Stadium Course has also hosted two Spanish Opens, and is ranked the No 1 course in Spain. Hilly, tree-lined and interspersed with numerous lakes and ponds, the 6,500-metre course offers spectacular glimpses of the Pyrenees, and its thrilling layout will test every element of your game. The layout has more than a hint of Augusta about it, with several testing narrow drives awaiting on a lot of the holes, with dog-legs and sweeping fairways another comparison point with the famous Masters venue. The course will be set up to the host’s own personal specifications, with free buggies available for use by each pairing. Following the golf, guests can sip a chilled glass of Catalonia’s best cava on a private area of the clubhouse terrace before sitting down to a gastronomic meal served in the privacy of one of the resort’s luxury villas, with the option of a Michelin-starred chef to cook the food. The only question that remains is who’s going to make the guest list… ■

Callaway has been at the forefront of driver technology ever since it launched the Big Bertha back in 1991, with many of the world’s top players using its clubs. By its own admission, the company has launched a succession of duds in recent years, but is back in game with the new RAZR Fit Xtreme. Although going the distance is vital, most club golfers are also looking for a driver that will keep them on the fairway. This has been achieved with a new sole weighting system, which, when combined with an adjustable hosel, creates a club that can be tuned to your style at the turn of a torque wrench. Callaway pros have seen significant distance gains in testing. With a choice of eight colours, the Xtreme looks set to become a stylish and powerful addition to your game. ■

For more information, please go to

pgacatalunya.com

squaremile.com


Professional rider on a closed racetrack

ducatiuk.com

Ducati 1199 Panigale S

Checkmate


Assets

Time genTlemen, please . 110

PhotograPh by the arts Club Khaled Kassem, from the gentlemen’s Clubs of London by anthony Lejeune (Stacey Publishing, £40)

105

squaremile.com

SponSored by

members’ clubs


Assets

MeMbers’ clubs scene

Get up On the scene

Keeping up with goings-on in London’s enigmatic clubland isn’t a job for the faint-hearted. Luckily we’ve done all the hard work for you… Blue-sky drinking: the bar at searcys Club offers some of the best drinking in the capital – the panoramic views aren’t bad, either

F

or a world that supposedly moves at a

glacial pace, London clubland never lacks intrigue. We bring you the latest news from behind the capital’s most secretive doors…

SearcyS club Even without its lofty position at the top of the Gherkin, Searcys Club would be mightily impressive. As it is, members can preside over the City as though it were their own – a perspective that doesn’t lose any of its allure with one of the club’s cocktails in your hand. Aside from the view, there’s a club lounge for informal meetings, a fine-dining restaurant and a champagne and cocktail bar. While it’s the perfect place to do business, the vista has an undeniable romantic pull, which members can take advantage of on Valentine’s day (or the 15th for the late romantic) when a special three-course menu, with champagne on arrival, is available. A series of members’ networking events is lined-up for the year, too, for those who understand that mixing business with pleasure can be a recipe for success. Searcys Club, The Gherkin, 30 St Mary Axe, EC3A 8EP; searcys.co.uk/the-gherkin

annabel’S When it was founded in 1963, Annabel’s was the only one of its kind: a members-only dancing and dining club offering sophisticated entertainment and excellent food in the centre of Mayfair. 50 years later, it is still without peer, its décor providing the same timeless combination of comfort, glamour and intimacy, its atmosphere still as unforgettable and celebratory as ever. Service is both indulgent and dramatic – salads are prepared, meats carved and desserts flambéed at the table – and the food, Italian with a twist, is expertly sourced and brilliantly cooked. In addition, Annabel’s has a private room that seats 22, with open fire and butler service. For its cosmopolitan membership spanning all age groups, this is a place to entertain and be entertained. For membership enquiries, please contact the membership office on 020 7629 2350 or email

membership@annabels.co.uk; annabels.co.uk Annabel’s, 44 Berkeley Square, W1J 5QB ➤

While it’s the perfect place to do business, the vista at Searcys is undeniably romantic squaremile.com

107


always ahead of the game


Assets

For the past quarter of a century the Groucho Club has been the A-list hub of bohemian Soho

The inside Track: a UVa installation behind the dJ booth at Morton’s 2&8 nightclub; a rare look into annabel’s Bar, home away from home for many an a list celebrity; Black’s, which traces its roots back to 1764

Black’s cluB Though Black’s Club celebrated its 20th anniversary in 2012, its roots stretch back to the 18th century, when an intellectual dining club called simply ‘The Club’ met at the 67 Dean St premises between 1764 and 1767. Today’s club was founded by Giuseppe Mascoli in 1992, who restored the early Georgian townhouse to its former glory and named it Black’s in hommage to the legendary White’s, opened by fellow Italian Francesco Bianco in 1693. Black’s, though, is a casual and unpretentious affair where members are encouraged to treat the house as their own; there’s even a Chivas whisky cabinet where you can store your bottle until your next visit. Black’s Club, 67 Dean Street, W1D 4QH

soho Whisky cluB

MorTon’s cluB

Whisky lovers won’t have any difficulty finding the Soho Whisky Club, sitting as it does above iconic Old Compton St shop the Vintage House. And, as you’d expect, the range of malts on offer to members is remarkable – there are more than 300 to try in total, some no longer commercially available. Even for whisky buffs, that’s a lot to navigate, so the club offers regular tutored tastings. There are cigar appreciation sessions, too, held in the club’s enclosed and heated smoking terrace. Free wifi means you can stay in touch with the real world while convening with the spirits.

A far cry from some of Mayfair’s more storied (and stuffier) clubs, Morton’s is relaxed, modern and – when you want it to be – fun. Below the main club, with its fine dining restaurant, private dining room and lengthy bar, is nightclub 2&8, created by ex-Boujis supremos Jake Parkinson Smith and Carlo Carello. Taking its name from the club’s door number (not to mention the cockney rhyming slang for state – as in ‘I’m in a right two and eight’), you’ll need to arrive early at the diminutive club to get a table, though you’re not likely to spend much time sitting down…

Soho Whisky Club, 42 Old Compton Street, W1D 4LR;

Morton’s Club, 28 Berkeley Square, W1J 6EN;

sohowhiskybar.com

mortonsclub.com

The Groucho cluB

Quo vadis

Famously taking its name from a Groucho Marx quote – “Please accept my resignation. I don’t want to belong to any club that will accept people like me as a member” – for the past quarter of a century the Groucho has been the A-list hub of bohemian Soho, drawing high-profile creative types into its Dean St premises. A temple to good living and art, the club is awash with contemporary works by members past and present, including a piano decorated by Peter Blake and pieces by Damien Hirst, Gavin Turk and Stella Vine.

Quo Vadis is another Marx-referencing Soho club, this time Karl; the Das Kapital author lived in the Dean St building that now houses this iconic restaurant and bar and members’ club. The upstairs club is a haven from the bustling streets below, and does everything you’d expect from one of the capital’s most desirable members’ spots – with bags of charm and class, too. On top of an elegant restaurant serving breakfast, lunch and dinner you’ll find one of the best cocktail bars in any London club. A recent refurb adds to the appeal.

The Groucho Club, 45 Dean Street, W1D 4QB;

Quo Vadis, 26-29 Dean Street, W1D 3LL;

thegrouchoclub.com

quovadissoho.co.uk

squaremile.com

109


110

squaremile.com


Assets

MeMbers’ clubs History

THE CHANGING FACE OF LONDON’S CLUBS The gentlemen’s clubs of London have a reputation as an exclusive haunt for the privileged. Anthony Lejeune looks at their history

T

PhotograPhs by Khaled Kassem

squaremile.com

he hisTory of London clubs, pieced together from old memoirs, membership lists and betting books, and from the often enigmatic records of committee meetings, constitutes a social history of the English upper classes over the past three-and-a-half centuries. “We now use the word clubbe,’’ wrote Aubrey in 1659, ‘’for a sodality in a tavern’’. The most famous of these sodalities was the club originated by Sir Walter Raleigh that met at the Mermaid – Shakespeare, Beaumont, Fletcher and Donne were among the members. Another such club, which met at the Devil Tavern near Temple Bar, is supposed to have been founded by Ben Jonson. The next generation of clubs tended to be more political and often (like the celebrated Green Ribbon Club) subversive. Charles II, easy-going though he was, tried to ban the coffee houses where they met, but the proclamation was so unpopular that it had to be withdrawn and the coffee house became established as a key feature of London social life. In 1693 an Italian known as Francis White, whose real name was probably Francesco Bianco, founded White’s Chocolate House in St James’s Street, on the site of what is now Boodle’s. John Arthur, after whom Arthur’s Club was subsequently named, was White’s assistant manager. In 1765 a Scotsman called William Macall reversed the syllables of his name to provide a more exotic title for his new assembly rooms. For a while, Almack’s became the most fashionable haunt in London. Macall had previously founded two clubs, at 49 and 50 Pall Mall, but, now that the assembly rooms required all his attention, he appointed Edward Boodle to manage No 50. Neighbouring No 49 continued to be a tavern with a club in it, but the members brought in William Brooks to run the club. So the familiar names of clubland were established.

Gaming and gossip were the principal amusements. Before long, however, politics intruded. Pitt, the Tory MP, was an early member of Brooks’s, proposed by future archrival Fox, but Brooks’s soon became identified with Whiggery, and, to a lesser extent, White’s was associated with the Tories. In due course membership of such clubs came to seem, at least to outsiders, a matter of hereditary privilege or special favour. So, to meet the aspirations of the rising industrialist, the thrusting entrepreneur and the merchant adventurer, the 19th century generated a whole flock of new clubs – larger, and often more grandiose and more solemn.

evolving Clubland Victorian clubmen drank less than their predecessors and less also than their successors. During the day there was no equivalent of a gin and tonic before lunch, but more booze in the evening. Meal times kept changing, the main meal moving steadily back from 2pm to 4pm, to 6pm, and then to 8pm, throughout the first half of the 19th century. The price of meals, on the other hand, remained remarkably stable by the inflationary expectations of today. In 1842 the average cost of dinner at the Athenaeum was 2s 9d; 60 years later it was 3s 3d, which is to say just over 15p in modern depreciated currency. As the years passed, candles gave way to gas, and gas to electricity, telephones and lifts were installed, and in the last century cocktail bars and television sets arrived – always after due huff and puff. No change went unnoticed or unopposed. The Marquess of Crewe, who died in 1945, the last member of Brooks’s to remember what the club had been like in Victoria’s reign, recalled: “The notepaper was solid and creamy, and that for private correspondence was gilt-edged, with no ➤

111


➤ address stamped on it: and when the time came for the name ‘Brooks’s’ to be inscribed on it, an old member complained that if that sort of thing was going to begin the old character of the club would be altogether lost.” Ferocious disputes broke out about whether smoking should be allowed in the main rooms. In Anthony Trollope’s novel The Duke’s Children, Silverbridge asks his father if he has ever been to the Beargarden Club: “Never,’’ said the Duke. “Come and dine with me.’’ “I am not a member of the club.’’ “We don’t care at all about that. Anybody can take in anybody.’’ “Does not that make it promiscuous?’’ “Well, no; I don’t know that it does. It seems to go on very well. I daresay there are some cads there sometimes. But I don’t know where one doesn’t meet cads. There are plenty in the House of Commons.’’ Up until the last war, guests at Brooks’s were confined to a small room just inside the door “in which visitors could be interviewed’’ and were useful for seeing one’s lawyer or stockbroker. Nowadays they are allowed everywhere except the front morning room. Arthur’s seems to have been the last club not to permit guests at all, just as it was probably the last club in London to insist that members dressed for dinner. At Boodle’s there was a “dirty end’’ of the coffee room, where members could dine without having donned a dinner jacket or tailcoat. Gradually the “dirty end’’ advanced, occupying more and more tables, until finally it was the members who dressed that found themselves in a diminishing minority, clustered at one end.

Clubland EtiquEttE The theory is that, subject to reasonable consideration for other people, a member should treat his club as though it were his own house. “It would be better,’’ wrote a member of the Garrick [pictured on previous page] in the 1870s, “that ten unobjectionable men should be excluded than that one terrible bore should be admitted.’’ Most clubs have their bores who are known to everyone except themselves.

Most gentlemen’s clubs have their bores who are known to everyone except themselves 112

squaremile.com


Assets

EXCLUSIVE HAUNTS: (clockwise) The magnificent vaulted interior of the Reform Club; the frighteningly well-stocked library at the Garrick Club; and the morning room at the Carlton Club

squaremile.com

At the Garrick, where members without guests are expected to sit at the long table, and certainly in small clubs like the Beefsteak and Pratt’s where there is only one table, this axiom is probably true, because a bore can easily drive other people out of the club. The rhythms of modern home life have increased club attendance at lunch now and shrunk it at dinner. I recall an old member of Brooks’s talking of looking through his grandmother’s or great-grandmother’s papers and finding a diary. In it there was an entry which said: “We have now been married exactly a year, in which time my husband has dined with me but once. Every other night he dined at Mr Brooks’s club.’’ No brides would accept such a situation today. Men are more likely to be found dining at their clubs now only when their wives are out of town. The rat race of the City leaves less time to drop in for a drink on the way home. “Yet clubs,” said a young member of White’s, “are still one of the cheapest forms of fun”. Clubland proper is quite an intimate place, occupied largely by people who know each other and know each other’s clubs – a small world, in which there are always familiar faces and gossip circulates rapidly. Many, if not most, serious clubmen do still belong to more than one club, even nowadays. Most members of the Beefsteak and Pratt’s belong to some other club as well. Ideally the clubman needs a club where he will be likely to see old friends and can be at companionable ease. Trying out a different club is always interesting – the tendency being to think the food better, but the atmosphere less congenial, than one’s own establishment. PG Wodehouse’s Bertie Wooster describes the experience thus: “Once a year the committee of the Drones decides that the old club could do with a wash and brush-up, so they shoo us out, and dump us down for a few weeks at some other institution. This time we were roosting at the Senior Liberal, and, personally, I had found the strain pretty fearful. I mean, when you’ve got used to a club where everything’s nice and cheery, and where, if you want to attract a fellow’s attention, you heave a bit of bread at him – it kind of damps you to come to a place where the youngest member is about 87, and it isn’t good form to talk to anyone unless you and he went through the Peninsular War together. It was a relief to come across Bingo. We started to talk in hushed voices. ‘This club,’ I said, ‘is the limit.’ ‘It is the eel’s eyebrows,’ agreed young Bingo. ‘I believe that old boy over by the

The guests were quite decent little fellows; no trouble. Buy their suits off the peg, of course window has been dead three days, but I don’t like to mention it to anyone.’” Clubs have generated a number of wellknown anecdotes. For example, a bishop saw on the noticeboard that the United Service Club would be billeted at the Athenaeum during August. “Oh dear, oh dear,’’ he wailed, “all those brutal faces.’’ Conversely, a member of the Guards’ Club was asked what it had been like giving hospitality to the Savile (though this story, like many clubland anecdotes, is, in fact, told of several clubs). “They were quite decent little fellows,’’ he said. “No trouble. Buy their suits off the peg, of course.’’ The club secretaries meet regularly to discuss common problems. They have their own distinguished association. They discuss staff, provender and money. Annual subscriptions today range from a few hundred pounds to well over a thousand. After 50 years’ membership, many a club waives the fee. But subscription income no longer covers the overheads, so improvements to make the bar more attractive have become increasingly common. A bit more riotous living in clubland would not go amiss, either. Clubs too quick to change, however, risk losing their raison d’être. They must provide at least a semblance of exclusivity. A club, after all, is a place where one goes to be among one’s own kind. We are as we are. Such is the unspoken motto of any of our 30-odd gentlemen’s clubs thriving in London. We are as we are; no one is going to have us be otherwise, here on our own premises, with our traditions and precepts, prejudices and manners. We elect ourselves. By virtue of the club we are comrades, share a fellowship, a sense of humour, a way of seeing the world. At best, our fathers were members, or our grandfathers, or our cousins or our godsons. A good club is so much more than a mere catering establishment. It is a refuge from the vulgarities of the world, the echo of a civilised English way of living, a place where (as was once said of an Oxford college) people still prefer a silver salt cellar that doesn’t pour to a plastic one which does. ■ The Gentlemen’s Clubs of London by Anthony Lejeune is out now (£40, Stacey International).

113


1

COCKTAIL CLASS THE CLUB AT THE IVY

1 EngLIsH JULEp 50ml sipsmith gin 50ml Earl grey tea 15ml Elderflower cordial 2.5ml gomme 10 Lemon balm leaves 5 Mint leaves glass: Julep cup Method: press mint and lemon balm, add all other ingredients with crushed ice and build. garnish: Mint sprig 2 MArTInIqUE rUM swIzzLE 50ml Clement VsOp rum 10ml Velvet Falernum 10ml Cane syrup 25ml Fresh lime juice 3 dashes Angostura bitters glass: Highball Method: swizzle garnish: Mint sprig and lime wedge 3 ELYsIUM 40ml Ketel One vodka 10ml Creme de peche 20ml Fresh lemon Juice 25ml pressed red grape juice Top with Fevertree ginger beer glass: Copper Mug Method: shake and strain over ice garnish: Two red grapes 4 BrAndY CrUsTA 50ml H by Hine 25ml Fresh lemon juice 15ml Orange curacao 5ml Maraschino 1 dash Bokers bitters glass: sour Method: shake and strain garnish: sugar rim and lemon zest to make the form of a crust.

MeMbers’ Clubs CoCktails

CasCane Oh , the bar manager at The Club at the Ivy, creates some of the best cocktails in the capital. Here, he shares his favourites

114

glass: rocks Method: Build garnish: nocellaro olives Before the Club at the Ivy, Cascane Ho worked at the Groucho Club and The Hospital Club.

the-ivyclub.co.uk

squaremile.com

PhotograPhs by sim Canetty-Clarke

the real ivy league

5 VEnETIAn sprITz 50ml Aperol 75ml prosecco 25ml soda water


Assets

2

5

3

4

squaremile.com

115


116

squaremile.com


Assets

ExcEss all arEas: (left) the main bar at the recently refurbished arts club; (this image) White’s club is one of the most traditional members’ clubs in the capital and the staff still wear full morning dress

The Drink PoL roGer cuvee sir Winston churchiLL 1999, £127.50: churchill was a serial clubman and a Pol roger devotee, so why not toast him with the brand’s 100% grand cru hommage to its most famous fan?

The WaTch MeMbers’ Clubs Guide

The STyle-high Club

Jon Hawkins takes us on a tour of London’s top members’ clubs,

Patek PhiLiPPe 5123r, £18,060: Patek’s signature calatrava is an enduring masterpiece of restrained masculine elegance and luxury; a perfect fit, then, for the quietly opulent environs of the traditional gentlemen’s club.

and picks out the essential styles for ensuring you look the part

L

ondon cLubLand is as varied, enigmatic

and entrancing as it’s ever been, from reborn relics of a bygone age to exclusive nightclubs packed with the young and beautiful; no matter what you want from a club, you’ll find it in London. So pour yourself a glass of whisky, ensconce yourself in a leather wingback and join us (no fee; no waiting list) on a journey through London’s private members’ clubs…

photograph by Chris ratcliffe/Bloomberg News/getty

The Originals The first London members’ clubs began springing up in the 17th century, and it’s testament to the enduring nature of the format that you can still join some of these pioneers today. If they’ll have you, that is.

1 White’s, 37 st James’s st, sW1a 1JG Founded in 1693 as White’s Chocolate House, this is the oldest club in London. David

squaremile.com

Cameron (whose late father, Ian, was once chairman of the club) was widely criticised for his membership of White’s; he resigned in 2008, apparently owing to the club’s continuing refusal to allow female members.

2 the beefsteak, 9 irvinG street, Wc2h 7at The Beefsteak started life in 1735 as an occasional dining club called the Sublime Society of Beef Steaks, which was reborn in the late 19th century as a gentlemen’s dining club. Today, this eccentric institution is located above a shop just off Leicester Square.

3 arts cLub, 40 dover st, W1s 4nP Though the Arts Club has been around long enough for Charles Dickens, James McNeil Whistler and Anthony Trollope to have been among its early members (it was founded in 1863), today’s refurbished club attracts a more youthful (and starry) crowd than most of the scene’s other elder statesmen. ➤

The kiT LinLey matchbox sLeeve, £150: this portable piece of david Linley’s wooden art blends practicality with patriotic flair, exquisite craftsmanship and a suitably aristocratic pedigree (he is the Queen’s nephew and 15th in line to the throne, afterall).

117


Assets

Home away from Home: (this image) the cigar lounge at Home House, complete with the requisite Chesterfields; (below) the main dining room in Soho House

The Drink Chivas Regal 25, £225: Created in 1909, the prohibition era almost killed Chivas Regal’s 25-year-old blend off, but fortunately for whisky lovers, the distillery’s master blender, Colin scott, revived the iconic blend in 2007.

The WaTch BRemont WoRld timeR alt1-Wt, £3,995: it’s not vitally important to know the time in all 24 time zones while you’re ensconced at the bar of your club, obviously, but you’ll send all the right ‘globetrotter’ signals.

The Modern ClassiCs There’s something distinctly British about the urge to join a club, perhaps not unrelated to the compulsion to join a queue for anything. The upshot is you’ll find some of the best clubs on earth, to suit every taste, right here in London. These modern marvels are a shining example.

The kiT dunhill BouRdon BRiefCase, £825: straddling the fine line between man-bag and briefcase with panache, the Bourdon is just as comfortable in business mode as it is once you’ve clocked off.

118

1 soho house, 40 gReek st, W1d 4eB Arguably the blueprint for the modern members’ club, Soho House was launched by Nick Jones in 1995 to considerable fanfare and its star has barely waned since. While the Soho House group has expanded into new frontiers (including New York, Miami, Berlin, Toronto and Shoreditch), the original remains – to many eyes, at least – the best. 2 5 heRtfoRd stReet, 2-5 heRtfoRd st, W1J 7RQ Club entrepreneur Robin Birley’s 5 Hertford St is the (almost) new kid on the block, created by the son of the old kid on the block (the late Mark Birley, who founded the legendary Annabel’s in 1963). Launched last summer, the club is the most talked about in the capital, for which, read: if you’re not a VVIP, look elsewhere. In any case, membership is already full, with a significant waiting list, too…

3 home house, 20 PoRtman sQuaRe, W1h 6lW Taking its name from the Countess of Home (fondly known as ‘The Queen of Hell’), the remarkable townhouse at 20 Portland Square was built in 1773 purely for enjoyment and entertainment. Now reincarnated as one of London’s most desirable members’ clubs, things haven’t changed much at Home House since, though a few modern luxuries have been added, including a gym, a basement nightclub (the brilliant Vaults) and a Zaha Hadid-designed bar. ➤

squaremile.com


Broadway House is a stylish members club in the heart of Fulham. It boasts a beautiful restaurant, Brasa, a members’ bar and two stunning roof terraces spread over three floors of this extensively refurbished period building. Broadway House is a light, spacious lounge bar where members can come during the day to have impromptu business meetings, birthday parties, or where they can sit drinking champagne on the terrace in the middle of the afternoon, or equally well at midnight. Members can book parties and events throughout the year. Brasa, on the first floor, is a beautifully designed relaxing restaurant overlooking the hustle and bustle of Fulham Road, with a private dining room. The menu draws its inspiration from an Asador Grill; think smoky aromas and charcoal-seared longhorn rib-eye steaks alongside fresh fish, salads and vegetarian ishes. The club organises numerous events for members each year, such as the rooftop film showings, wine tastings, members’ cocktail parties, barbecues, themed parties and more.

474-476Fulham Road | Fulham SW6 1BY | t 0207 6103137 | www.broadway-house.com


Assets

The NighTclubs Some of the earliest clubs were home to playful, raucous crowds, and a bit of their spirit can be found distilled in today’s more hedonistic members’ clubs. Some take a relatively traditional, somewhat old-school, approach to proceedings, while others are all about bright lights and beautiful people – either way, you’d have to be made of stone not to have a good time.

1 Tramp, 40 Jermyn ST, Sw1y 6Dn Hidden behind Tramp’s inconspicuous entrance on Jermyn St you’ll find two main rooms: a bar and restaurant in one and a dance floor in the other, which should give you some idea of the club’s balance of priorities. There’s an excellent cigar terrace, too.

2 CuCkoo Club, Swallow ST, w1b 4eZ The Cuckoo Club is no shrinking violet, with a vibrant design that’s a clash of bold neon lights and luxurious dark wood, leather and crushed velvet (thank Biba founder Barbara Hulanicki, who was responsible for the recent redesign). Needless to say, the Cuckoo’s a place for the well-heeled and well-dressed; if you happen to be both, you won’t find a better place to party. 3 The brompTon Club, 92 olD brompTon rD, Sw7 5lr The Brompton is a modern institution created in the image of London’s most celebrated clubs. Spread across the lower ground floor of the new £100m Kensington hotel, it’s where South West London’s young, rich and beautiful go to let their hair down. At the club’s heart is a fine dining restaurant, along with two bars and a dance floor that packs out at night. ■

PurPle reign: The restaurant at the Cuckoo Club is renowned as one of the best nightclub restaurants in the capital

The Drink CrySTal heaD VoDka, £42.49: Image is everything in the world of the members’ nightclub, which goes some way to explaining the popularity of ‘that vodka in a glass skull bottle’. Co-created by Dan aykroyd (yes, that Dan aykroyd).

The WaTch ChoparD SuperfaST Chrono, £21,420: when it’s time to hit the floor, you need a precision timepiece as durable as it is sharp – like Chopard’s Superfast, with its motorsport looks and self-winding chronograph movement.

The kiT leICa X2 paul SmITh, £2,000: many clubs won’t, for obvious reasons, permit cameras. So while we couldn’t possibly condone it, if you must take a few snaps you’ll need a leica, the undercover camera of choice for almost a century now.

120

squaremile.com


IMMERSE YOURSELF IN THE ULTIMATE BRUNCH EXPERIENCE

In assocIatIon wIth:

WWW.BACANAL.CO.UK LONDON | MILANO | CANNES | IBIZA


Assets

Eight club You don’t have to travel far to escape the City. In fact, you don’t have to go anywhere at all. Eight’s two Square Mile locations – Eight Bank at 1 Change Alley and Eight Moorgate at 1 Dysart St – are sanctuaries of calm, elegance and good living located right in the heart of the action. Eight Bank was the first to open, in 2006, and has over 10,000 sq ft of facilities including a members’ lounge with three championship pool tables, two bars, seven private rooms and a cinema. The second venue, Eight Moorgate, has a rooftop location a short walk from Liverpool St station and the views to match – the City panorama from the club’s terrace and excellent Quartier restaurant is truly epic. Big plans are in place for 2013 at Eight Moorgate, with the club gaining a studio fitness facility and treatment room with luxury changing rooms, along with a new stateof-the-art conference suite and an additional roof terrace with its own smoking lounge. The result is as complete a package as any City boy or girl could need; whether it’s business, pleasure or relaxation on the agenda, Eight has it covered. Twice. ■

members’ Clubs eIght

Eight Members’ Club has not one but two venues, both in the City of London, and exciting plans are afoot for 2013, says Jon Hawkins

122

eightclub.co.uk

What’s in a number?

squaremile.com


SEE ART LOVE ART BUY ART... LONDON’S MOST EXCITING NEW ART FAIR LAUNCH IN A DECADE

BOOK TICKETS NOW www.artfairslondon.com CALL 0844 854 0503 Quote ‘SQUAREMILE’ to receive 2 tickets for the price of 1* *Ticket offer based on an adult on the door ticket price i.e. 2 adult tickets for £16 Please note that a £1.75 transaction fee is applicable. Offer valid until 27/02/2013


Assets

Travel SUperyachT

WandEr lusT

See more pIcTUreS on oUr ipad app

For timeless class, plus an 18-person Jacuzzi, you’ll want to charter Sherakhan, says TrisTan ruTherford

THE yacHT Sherakhan

SpecS LengTh YARd CABinS gueSTS winTeR SuMMeR PRiCe

squaremile.com

69.7m Scheepswerf A.Vuyk & Zonen 13 up to 26 Antarctic / Caribbean Mediterranean from $350,000 per week

A timeless build from 1966, Sherakhan offers the ultimate in luxury long-distance cruising. Blessed with a range of 3,500 nautical miles, she’s a go-anywhere maritime kingdom. The boat’s robust structure renders her at home in any waters from calm Caribbean currents to feisty South Atlantic seas. Sherakhan’s crew can offer up to 26 guests the ultimate expedition. Try tender trips to deserted Pacific islands, kayak tours to African shores, or wildlife lectures alongside barren Antarctic ice floes. Staff will show the ship’s lighter side, too. Raft races, floating trampoline games and an 18-person Jacuzzi will bring a smile to any yacht party. The on-board therapists in her wellness centre are equally adept at manicure, pedicure and Balinese massage. ■ To charter Sherakhan, visit ycoyacht.com


Travel CroaTia

wherever the wind takes you

Sailing offers the perfect opportunity for an idyllic, get-away-from-it-all holiday. Gabriella le breton explored the delights of Croatia aboard the luxury twomasted gulet Eleganza and loved every minute of it

islands, islets and reefs sprinkled along it, Croatia is a country best explored by boat. Dazzlingly turquoise waters lap fortified cities and white sand beaches, sleepy fishing villages curl around sheltered bays, and craggy mountains and forests rise steeply above the gin-clear Adriatic. However, Croatia’s scenic coastline can be treacherous in winter, as reflected by the cautionary local saying: “It is

126

inadvisable to take to the sea before a fig-leaf is big enough to cover your hand”. Despite passing the fig-leaf test, I elected to let someone else navigate the Adriatic for me during a recent visit to Croatia (as well as cook, clean and serve me chilled drinks), as I spent an idyllic few days sailing aboard Eleganza, a traditional gulet (pronounced goolet). Turkish in origin, gulets are two-masted wooden boats first used by fishermen and

sponge divers, and are now found throughout the eastern Mediterranean. Contemporary gulets retain the elegant lines of their ancestors, but are now complemented by spacious cabins and generous deck space for sunbathing and al-fresco dining. My first sighting of Eleganza was at night in the ancient city of Split. Candles flickered gently in storm lanterns on a large teak table sheltered under a sail-cloth canopy on the aft

squaremile.com

PhotograPhs by Daniela Cesarei

W

ith 5,835km of coastline and 1,185


Assets

The crew deftly replaced the luggage in our hands with cold drinks and, despite the late hour, laid out a feast for us squaremile.com

deck and soft light from the portholes below decks glimmered on the rippling water beneath. Our crew – Eleganza’s owner and skipper Marko, chef Toni, waiter Mate, and deckhand Jay – deftly replaced the luggage in our hands with cold drinks and, despite the late hour, laid out a feast of local delicacies for us under the stars before we retired for the night. Waking the next morning to the sound of Eleganza’s engines firing up, I drew the curtains behind my bed to reveal blindingly sun-bespeckled water. Daylight revealed the boat’s full glory – I had drawn the long straw with the palatial master cabin, but the other four cabins were equally well-appointed, with mahogany panelling and furniture and tiled bathrooms. Safe in the knowledge that Toni was rustling up breakfast in the galley, and Marko was helming in the large saloon, I tested out the expanse of sunbathing cushions on the foredeck. They passed muster. I was joined a short while later by Dora Vulic, who had arranged this adventure for me. Aged 36, ‘Dora the Explorer’ founded the London-based Sail Dalmatia in 2008, with more than ten years’ experience working aboard chartered yachts under her belt. Working with experienced local crews, Dora handpicks Croatia’s finest gulets, yachts and motor boats to create bespoke sailing holidays for her clients, arranging everything from childcare and on-board massages to concert tickets and scenic helicopter flights. After a breakfast of fresh fruit, pastries, breads, honey and eggs served on deck, we gathered around Marko and his nautical charts to discover which islands we would be visiting. Together with the skippers, Dora pieces together individual itineraries around the desires of her clients. Culture buffs can attend the Dubrovnik music festival, explore the Diocletian Palace of Split, and marvel at Porec’s Byzantine mosaics. Active types can hike around the thymescented island of Korcula, cycle to the highest point of the Adriatic Islands – Vidava Gora – on Brac, and enjoy scuba diving, snorkelling, jet-skiing and waterskiing from the boat. Foodies can indulge in Hvar’s excellent restaurants and food market (don’t miss Leopold’s delicatessen, a tiny food emporium crammed with his home-made hams, cheeses and hand-pressed olive oil), visit the wineries of Mljet or simply stay on board Eleganza, where chef Toni serves up mountains of seafood risotto, spicy calamari, lobster salad, and beef carpaccio with black truffles. Having anchored off the Pakleni Islands opposite Hvar for an afternoon’s snorkelling, Marko whisked us off in a tender to the idyllic

hamlet of Palmižana for sundowners before sailing straight into the prime spot alongside the marble promenade of Hvar, close to the lively cafés, boutiques and bars. As Mate brought me a glass of excellent Croatian sparkling wine aboard Eleganza, drawing envious glances from the infinitely less pampered guests of the bar opposite, I realised the slogan I’d seen in Palmižana’s quirky Meneghello hotel perfectly summed up this holiday – “peaceful idleness”. ■ Chartering the ten-berth Eleganza costs from €11,900 per week, including fees and half-board. Sail Dalmatia: 0800 124 4176; saildalmatia.com.

Villa dubroVnik Vlaha BukoVca 6, 20000 DuBroVnik

For all you landlubbers out there, croatia has some beautiful boutique hotels to offer, too: none more so than the five-star Villa Dubrovnik. Prominently positioned on the cliffs above the city’s prestigious St Jacob precinct, the newly renovated hotel is minutes from the fortified beauty of the old city cultural landmarks. all the residences have sea views with private terraces. To top off the experience, there’s a rooftop lounge with beautiful vistas. villa-dubrovnik.hr

127


The brighT idea From dazzling lights to dizzying heights, Taoist temples to Michelin stars, Duncan MaDDen discovers there’s far more to Macau than the spin of a roulette wheel‌

128

squaremile.com


Promotion

M

PHOTOGRAPH from MGTO; All RiGHTs ReseRved

squaremile.com

acau is one of those places that

everyone’s heard of but few could point to on a map. Fantastically perched on the western side of the Pearl River Delta, facing the South China Sea to the south and east, it’s a quick 40-mile hop from Hong Kong. It serves up a sumptuous melting pot of diverse cultures, historic buildings and modern attractions that makes it every bit as appealing as its neighbour. The name Macau finds its origins back in the early 1550s when the Portuguese first arrived. They adapted and shortened the local name – A Ma Gao, in honour of A-Ma, the Goddess of Seafarers – to Macau. The city became a Special Administrative Region of China in 1999 but the unique fusion of Chinese and Portuguese heritage remains in Macau to this day. The Historic Centre of Macau is a UNESCO World Heritage site and to wander through its atmospheric, twisting maze of streets and piazzas, amid 17th century fortresses, baroque churches and ornate palaces, is to be transported back to Europe, except of course for the proliferation of Taoist temples and Chinese language signs. Despite its unmistakable European influences, Macau is also a city of China. A year round calendar of events reflects both sides of its personality with highlights including dragon boat racing and the annual Macau International Fireworks Contest, celebrating its 25th anniversary this year. Foremost among its cultural celebrations is Chinese New Year, falling on 10 February. 2013 is the Year of the Snake and you can be sure Macau will lead the celebrations with colourful parades, fireworks and a range of exciting events. Propping up the other end of the calendar, and making 2013 a particularly special year, November sees the 60th anniversary of the Macau Grand Prix. One of the world’s most demanding road races, previous Formula 3 winners include Ayrton Senna and Michael Schumacher, cementing its status as a street circuit true driving legends wish to conquer. The Grand Prix is typical of Macau: blending the modernity and affluence of motor racing with the history and heritage of an event spanning six decades. Like the city, it perfectly represents the harmonious best of past and present. And it’s a continuing theme. When it comes to places to stay, you’re truly spoilt for choice. For the convenience and comfort of a modern five-star stay take your pick from the cream of the luxury crop – Four Seasons, Mandarin Oriental and Grand Hyatt are just some of the international hotels, many of which are home to world class spas, such as those at the MGM Macau and Banyan

••

Like the city, the grand prix perfectLy represents the harmonious best of past and present Tree. For something more authentic, try the traditional Portuguese-style pousadas – boutique, unique and charming, they lend any stay a faithful insight into the city’s ancient roots. No matter how indulgent your hotel, it would be a crime to not get out and explore. Macau is a fantastic walking city where compact, buzzing streets overwhelm the senses with the sounds, smells and sights of everyday life. If the people and pace become too much, though, take a breather in one of the 25 beautiful temples, churches and fortresses listed for their cultural and historic significance. When the abundance of culture and history takes its toll, it’s time to head back to the now. The Macau Tower is 338 vertical metres of fun and adrenaline. Once you’ve taken in the extraordinary city and river views from the top, the quickest way down is to, well, jump – bungee jump that is, from the world’s highest commercial bungee run by the legendary AJ Hackett [pictured]. For those of a weaker disposition who still fancy a challenge, you can try the Sky Walk around the tower’s ➤

129


Promotion

••

The ciTy of Dreams is a fiTTing name for macau: a meTropolis wiTh a rare anD colourful hisTory

130

➤ top or take advantage of the revolving restaurant. Whatever you choose, it’s a great way to get a fresh perspective on the city and the Pearl River Delta. There are more relaxing activities on offer, of course. The nearby islands of Taipa and Coloane are quieter, the latter being the setting for the relaxing beaches of Hac Sa (Black Sand) and Cheoc Van (Bamboo Bay), and two golf courses. Swing some irons, or try one of the other sporting options on land and sea, from hiking and cycling to kayaking and canoeing. If you’ve got the energy after all this, Macau has a treat in store once the sun sets. As the lights flicker into life and the bars, restaurants and casinos don their evening wear, the city takes on a dizzying and electric atmosphere. A renowned restaurant scene – from Michelin-starred restaurants to local noodle shops – offers every conceivable cuisine, with a slant on Portuguese, Chinese and in particular Macanese dishes. The latter is a spicy fusion of the former, with influences from South America, Africa, India and Malaysia thrown in that reflect the trading destinations of Portuguese explorers making their way to Macau over the centuries With appetites sated, you could try your luck at one of Macau’s famous casinos or head to one of its fashionable bars and nightclubs. There’s the Macallan Whisky Bar & Lounge,

for example, offering more than 400 of the world’s finest whiskies; or the sophisticated 38 Lounge at the Altira Hotel, with an open air deck and fantastic views across Macau. Take the night further at Club Cubic, Macau’s mega-club, where you’ll be treated to guest international DJs and hip-hop stars aplenty. For a real spectacle, head to the House of Dancing Water show at the aptly named City of Dreams resort. At a construction cost of $250m, the show features high-dive acrobatics in a specially-built theatre containing five Olympic pools of water. Don’t worry, they provide towels for those too close to the action! City of Dreams is actually a fitting name for Macau itself. A metropolis with a rare and colourful history, borne from the aspirations and endeavours of visitors and natives alike, it has over the centuries rightly taken advantage of its geographical good fortune. Long since a great stopover en route to the other side of world, or even better a perfect getaway after a busy business trip to Hong Kong, it now stands as a destination in its own right: eclectic, eccentric and exhilarating enough to rival anywhere. Go see for yourself. ■ Macau International Airport flies routes to many of the region’s major cities but most Brits fly to Hong Kong and take the one-hour fast ferry ride direct from the airport or downtown. For more information, please visit: www.macautourism.gov.mo

squaremile.com


LONDON’S ULTIMATE HEALTH AND FITNESS EXPERIENCE

THE FIRST FULLY INTEGRATED APPROACH TO A HEALTHIER LIFE Membership of ESPA Life at Corinthia will take care of the ‘whole’ you. Beginning with an assessment of all aspects of your health, lifestyle and fitness, our team of professionals will then devise a programme of therapies and activities specific to your goals and needs. Assembled by ESPA founder Susan Harmsworth MBE and health and fitness expert Stephen Price, our team includes leading nutritionists, acupuncturists, osteopaths, personal trainers and spa therapists. The care and support they will lavish on you in our luxurious, world-class spa makes this a truly special membership. Truly a membership for life, that will change your life. To book your personal tour, call 020 7321 3232

ESPA LIFE AT CORINTHIA, WHITEHALL PLACE, LONDON SW1A 2BD | mEmBERSHIP.LONDON@CORINTHIA.COm | ESPALIFEATCORINTHIA.COm


homes away from home

Discerning travellers, who are demanding the very best in personalised services, are increasingly looking to luxury rentals as an alternative to hotels. We find out why…

I

magIne a pIcture-perfect backdrop while relaxing and sipping your favourite cocktail from a private villa terrace. Or perhaps a cosy condo stocked with the latest DVDs, state-of-the-art appliances, and 24-hour concierge service is more to your liking? Whatever your preference, Sumo Retreats makes it possible for guests to enjoy their holiday stay fully without having to worry about the usual day-to-day stresses. The idea for this dynamic vacation rentals company was born – like many other inspired

••

It Is my Dream that our guests make our sIte theIr one-stop shop for holIDay plannIng 132

ventures – from necessity. Founder and CEO, Andrew Milligan, is a successful entrepreneur and world traveller – having visited more than 50 countries across the world – who was often frustrated with the lack of personalised amenities found at most property rental companies. Milligan was determined to create a company that not only offered quality, fully-furnished properties, but exceptional customised customer services and convenient online booking. The experienced Sumo Retreats team currently offers luxury villas and condos in major cities and resorts around the world. They are continuously adding more locations to keep up with demand. “It is my dream,” says Milligan, “that our guests make our site their one-stop shop for holiday planning, after discovering that they feel at home regardless of the change in location.” Top destinations for villas include Mexico, Jamaica and Mauritius while stylish city

apartment rentals are popular in Europe – especially Paris, London and Barcelona. Apart from the obvious personal perks, opting for rental in lieu of a hotel just makes more sense for today’s busy professional. Top-rated hotels, while offering quality services, simply do not have the manpower to personalise every bit of your stay. Sure, they can offer deluxe bathroom amenities and fine dining but will they supply your favourite shampoo, newspaper or rare wine preferences? How about expert suggestions for the area according to your specific needs and not just what’s most popular? Furthermore, despite their best intentions, hotels cannot control the activities of other guests. They may succeed in silencing noisy neighbours – but not before rousing you from much needed slumber. At a Sumo Retreats property, the guests are in control; whether they prefer to stay in the heart of a bustling city or secluded on a private beach.

squaremile.com


Promotion

An easy-to-use online booking service is yet another advantage to booking with Sumo Retreats. The website features detailed property descriptions, long or short stay options, and there’s always someone on the end of the line to answer all of your requests. “As a luxury service provider,” explains Milligan, “it is our goal to prove that the advantages of renting exclusive vacation properties far outweigh that of your typical hotel stay.” “We accomplish client satisfaction,” he continues, “by providing the four Cs of exemplary customer service: cost, convenience, comfort and customisation”. Sumo Retreats knows that the travel industry is constantly evolving. Thankfully, its dedication and commitment to providing excellent service means that you can focus on more important things – like enjoying the holiday of a lifetime. ■ sumoretreats.com; info@sumoretreats.com

squaremile.com

133


Promotion

New year, New highs Win a heli-skiing trip for two people in the rugged Canadian Rockies worth £5,000, plus ski gear worth more than £2,000, in this fantastic competition brought to you by square mile

I

f helI-skIIng or heli-snowboarding is high on your list of New Year’s resolutions, we just might be able to help you achieve it. Ellis Brigham has teamed up with Pure Powder, Arc’teryx, K2, Canadian Mountain Holidays (CMH), and Tourism British Columbia to offer you an incredible winter holiday prize package worth more than £7,000. The winner will experience the ultimate skiing or snowboarding trip in British Columbia plus their choice of Arc’teryx clothing and K2 skis. British Columbia is Canada’s outdoor playground, offering year-round outdoor adventure, stretching from the Rockies in the east to the Pacific Ocean in the west. With an abundant snowfall and endless valleys of perfectly spaced trees and open bowls in the Selkirk and Monashee ranges, there is never a shortage of fresh powder to explore. It is a favourite owing to its shorter, more flexible trip dates – and it is ideal for strong skiers on a heli-trip for the first time or those with limited time off. Accommodation is in the small lakeside town of Nakusp in CMH’s K2 Rotor Lodge, with a lively bar and local hot springs to enjoy. CMH K2 at Kootenay is a new unique partnership between K2 skis and CMH. In their own words the lodge is ‘the coolest motor lodge in the world’. And with the Rotor Lodge as your base camp, you’ll be well placed to access the rugged terrain on offer. Plus, with K2 involved, there will be the chance to ski along-side K2-sponsored athletes. This really is a trip of a lifetime… ■ To enter go to squaremile.com/ellisbrigham

or ask in store. Closing date for entries is midday on 28 February 2013. For more information on the prize partners, see: ellis-brigham.com and

••

K2 RotoR lodge in the Canadian RoCKies is ‘the Coolest motoR lodge in the WoRld’ 134

The prize includes... • Return flights to Canada and transfers to/from the CMH K2 Rotor Lodge • Three full days of heli-skiing • All accommodation (in twin or double room) and food while at the lodge • Use of CMH Atomic, K2 heli-skis or Burton snowboards • Services of mountain guides • Training in and use of avalanche transceivers, shovels and probes • Arc’teryx clothing worth up to £1,200 • Two pairs of K2 skis of your choice (up to max value of £600 each) squaremile.com/ellisbrigham

squaremile.com


Europe Dubai Maldives Mauritius Thailand Caribbean

Grace Mykonos From £549* Offer includes 5 nights in a Deluxe Room, daily champagne breakfast, an exclusive candlelit dinner for two with wine, return transfers and flights from London.

SAVE up to £250 pluS 1 FREE NIGHt

Grace Santorini From £1,175* Offer includes 5 nights in a Deluxe Room, daily champagne breakfast, an exclusive candlelit dinner for two with wine, return transfers and flights from London.

SAVE up to £170

* Prices are per person based on 2 sharing for stays 02 May – 15 Jun 13. Book by 28 Feb 13. Other dates are available at a supplement. Please mention ‘Square Mile’ when booking. Subject to availability. Booking conditions apply.

0800 988 1940

www.destinology.co.uk/square


Promotion

BuBBle & ChiC Embrace a true champagne lifestyle with Banyan Tree Hotels & Resorts, Pol Roger and luxury tour operator Red Savannah

sPeCiaL offer Book a holiday to a Banyan Tree or Angsana resort in 2013 with Red Savannah and you could win a twin gift box of Pol Roger Champagne. For more information, call 01242 787 800;

www.redsavannah.com/banyantree

pol roger

C

hoosing where to go on your next holiday can certainly be a daunting task. The world is your oyster, after all. But let’s face it, oysters always taste better with champagne. Red Savannah has picked two of the world’s most luxurious locations for enjoying the high life in 2013.

yourself away from the world-famous Banyan Tree Spa, which features a host of treatment rooms and an outdoor yoga pavilion. Book Banyan Tree Lang Cô for seven nights from £2,275 per person, with Red Savannah. This includes accommodation, daily breakfast, flights from London and airport transfers from Da Nang Airport.*

Banyan tree L ng Cô [PiCtured aBove]

Banyan tree KeraLa [PiCtured toP right]

Lang Cô in Vietnam sits amid an area universally praised for its natural beauty – and Banyan Tree’s new, exclusive retreat here is the perfect place from which to enjoy it. The resort is ideal for adventurous couples who want something more unique than just a pretty beach, (although you get that, too). There’s no shortage of activities to indulge in during your stay – in particular, it’s a haven for watersports. Although, those of you who want to keep dry can enjoy archery, yoga or golf – an 18-hole course designed by Sir Nick Faldo overlooks the sea and makes the most of a landscape blessed by mountains, streams and rice paddies. Lang Cô also neighbours several UNESCO world heritage sites and works well in combination with a city break to Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City. That is, if you can tear

This spring marks the launch of Banyan Tree’s first resort in India. Situated on a private island in Kerala, it’s an idyllic setting from which to discover the beaches, backwaters, greenery and Ayurvedic therapies that make this Southern Indian state famous. Each of the resort’s 54 villas, characterised by nods to local architectural styles, has a private pool framed by views of the surrounding waterways. The resort offers an array of restaurants – or you can tuck into Southern Indian cuisine and a glass (or two) of champagne aboard a local palak boat typically used by royalty.

136

Champagne Pol Roger has produced champagne for more than 160 years. To this day, the house remains family-owned, fiercely independent and has a reputation for exceptional quality. Indeed, it was Sir Winston Churchill’s lifelong favourite. The Brut Reserve is blended from 30 still base wines from different vineyards in the Champagne region, giving it a complex and characterful taste. Its honey and nut finish and notes of green apples make it a refreshing apéritif – perfect at the end of a hard day’s sunbathing. ■ www.polroger.co.uk

Book Banyan Tree Kerala for seven nights from £2,225 per person, with Red Savannah. This includes accommodation, daily breakfast, flights from London and transfers from Cochin.* ■ *Subject to availability, based on two people sharing. T&Cs apply.

squaremile.com


Discover the real beauty of owning at Fistral Beach, Newquay

Up to 5% net rental guarantee available*

Go from sofa to surf in just five minutes! There are now generously sized, fully-furnished exclusive luxury apartments available at Fistral Beach, boasting amazing panoramic sea views across the iconic beach itself yet a stone’s throw from the town centre. These incredible apartments offer an fantastic investment opportunity, with up to 5% net rental guarantee available for the first 3 years* Numerous flights are available from London to Newquay Cornwall Airport, making these stunning apartments accessible in less than an hour! Find out more today!

At-a-glance: • Up to 5% net rental guarantee available for the first three years* • Key-ready, for either residential or holiday use • Your own dedicated concierge, 365 days a year • Platinum member of our Great Stay Programme, giving you two weeks use of other Natural Retreats Worldwide locations • 999 year long term lease • Fully furnished to the highest standard • Managed and operated by Natural Retreats • Great rental potential and experienced rental programme

Don’t miss out, contact us now: Telephone: 01625 416420 | Email: enquiries@naturalretreatsresidences.com www.naturalretreatsresidences.com *Terms and Conditions apply


Your reward for all the late nights in the office.


property

InterIor desIgn . 143 PrImrose HIll . 146 tHe PAd: AVA HoUse . 149

Light house . 149


ProPerty

ART nouveAu Nope – not a banker caught and strung up by an anarchist mob, but an art installation from one of London’s most talented design studios, Acrylicize. The company is the creation of childhood friends James Burke and Paul Arad, sparked by a project while Burke was studying art at Manchester Metropolitan University. He sprayed ink designs onto acrylic, put price tags with random numbers on them – and sold the lot. Now Acrylicize has orders from some of the biggest names in the UK, including Arsenal, British Airways and Deloitte. Each piece of work tells a story about the client. And Hugo, the hung banker? He was commissioned by office group Esselco to capture the mood towards bankers. ■

InterIor DesIgn stUDIo

Off the wall This City installation of a strung-up banker certainly turns heads, but it’s all in a day’s work for art studio Acrylicize

Acrylicize, 1a Old Nichol Street, E2 7HR; 020 7739 2279

acrylicize.com

squaremile.com

143


ProPerty

Binning Strategy The official names for these designs are simply ‘Waste-paper bin 4745 & 4751’. But these creations are so much more than just numbers. Designed by Angelo Cortesi and Franco Scansetti in 1989, they are emblematic of the innovative prowess of a whole company. Kartell was founded in 1949 by Giulio Castelli, a chemical engineer with a vision to create something beautiful from plastics – a material whose applications were still relatively unexplored. A collaboration with the great designer Gino Colombini won the firm its first Compasso d’Oro award in 1955. The plastic-loving era of the 1960s and 1970s then elevated the company to new heights. And, more recently, Philippe Starck’s Ghost chairs and Ron Arad’s Bookworm shelves have ensured its designs have moved from simply innovative to becoming iconic. ■ Kartell by Elisa Storace & Hans Werner Holzwarth is out now (Taschen, £44.99)

InterIor DesIgn Kartell

taschen.com

Nice pair of biNs If there’s one design company that can make the humble rubbish bin stylish, it’s Milan’s Kartell. JacK Donne reports on fantastic plastic

144

squaremile.com


Nestled beside the Barbican and just moments from the nightlife, Michelin starred restaurants and culture of the Square Mile. The Residences at Roman House boast boutique style interiors, 24-hour concierge, gym and access to the beautiful St Alphage Gardens.

Call: 020 7920 9920 or email: romanhouse@berkeleygroup.co.uk Luxury Studios, 1, 2 & 3 bedroom residences from ÂŁ565,000 Roman House, Wood Street, London, EC2Y 5BA

www.roman-house.co.uk Proud to be a member of the Berkeley Group of companies

Our vision for your future

Selling Agents

Details correct at time of press. Computer Generated Image depicts typical interior and is indicative only.

Roman House - the epitome of Boutique City Living New Show Apartment now open


ProPerty

Up on the roof: the 400 sq ft roof terrace stretches across the fourth floor which is also home to a den; (below) the dining room, sitting room and kitchen are all open plan and cover the entire first floor

Luxury London Living Primrose HiLL

Hitting tHe HigH notes This former piano factory in Primrose Hill ticks every box – acres of room, plenty of luxury, and it even has green credentials. And if you want to resurrect past glories, there’s certainly room for a grand piano or two

T

he CiTy fringes may be cluttered with factory conversions, but it’s rare that you’ll find one in Primrose Hill. This former piano factory on Berkley Road has been redesigned to create a giant home – all 5,790 sq ft of it. The four-bedroom, four-bathroom home has an open-plan dining/living/kitchen

••

The building has a large number of environmental and eco-friendly features: luxury with a conscience 146

room and den. There’s also a gym, laundry room and three balconies. There’s also a selfcontained office and a magnificent roof terrace [pictured above] with great views of the park. The building has a large number of environmental and eco-friendly features including a biomass boiler, solar panels and reclaimed wood. So, luxury with a conscience. Occupying a prominent corner position on Berkley Road, the property is at the centre of Primrose Hill Village, famed for its iconic park just 300 metres from the property. It’s within close proximity to an array of boutique shops, restaurants and cafés – and walking distance to Regents Park and Camden Town. ■ Asking price: £7,500,000; for sales, contact Aston Chase, 020 7724 4724; astonchase.com

squaremile.com


Wonderful pieces for discerning individuals & interior designers from over 100 dealers

info@decorativecollective.com

Tel: 01328 856333

www.decorativecollective.com


TITCHMARSH & GOODWIN Est. 1920

The Specialist Cabinet Makers

English Walnut Executive Desk Made by hand in our Suffolk workshops Telephone: 01473 252158

E-mail: info@titchmarsh-goodwin.co.uk


ProPerty

London Kingston upon thames

And the AwArd goes to... As Awards Season descends upon Hollywood, we have discovered our own multi-award winner. A modernist palace on the Coombe Hill Estate, Ava House has been recognised as the best-designed home in the capital

T

he ‘WhaT house?’ aWards are the

equivalent of the Oscars in the property business – but with less crying and more architects. It’s rare to win gold in just one award here, but Ava House won three in 2012. At the ceremony last November, it picked up the gongs for Best Luxury House, Best Exterior Design and Best Interior Design. The home is the pinnacle of the modernist style of new build houses mastered by developer Q Developments and awardwinning architect, Terry Pawson. The property is spread across three levels with open-plan accommodation and a clever use of light and glass in all the major rooms. Throughout the house, the latest state-ofthe-art technology has been installed for A/V, lighting and underfloor heating, all controlled from iPads. There are four reception rooms and seven double bedrooms with six bath/ shower rooms (five of which are en suite). The open-plan Bulthaup kitchen is the heart of the home, but one floor down there’s a magnificent indoor swimming pool opening onto a sunken terrace with a purpose built gym, cinema room with bar, and library. Outside, a stone terrace leads seamlessly from the sitting room to the rear garden. The garden has been carefully landscaped to offer excellent privacy with planted mature and ornate borders. Ava House is located in the heart of the Coombe Hill Estate. The Coombe Hill Estate forms part of the larger Coombe Estate, a private residential estate located between Wimbledon Village and Kingston upon Thames. There are two private golf clubs, excellent local schools and easy access to both Richmond Park and Wimbledon Common. ■ Price: £5.995m; 020 8971 8111; savills.co.uk

••

There’s a swimming pool opening onto a sunken terrace with a gym, cinema room, bar, and library squaremile.com

149


Visit the showroom 4-5 Roslin road, London W3 8DH www.thesofaandchair.co.uk 020 8993 4415


he Sofa and Chair Company are the leading manufacturers of luxury upholstered furniture in the UK; designing and producing stunning furniture for a portfolio of interior designers and discerning individuals around the country. From sofas, armchairs and chaise lounges to elegantly crafted bespoke pieces; the company has certainly positioned itself as a true ambassador for British design and manufacturing. With an exquisite collection available both online and in their beautiful West London showroom which hosts various room sets and a wide selection of Homewares and accessories. The Company is attracting a wealth of attention this year with two of their products; the Fenton chair and Bernini sofa, shortlisted for The International Product Design Awards 2013.

Established in 2002, the company is renowned for its quality craftsmanship and bespoke services. Their unique pieces are all manufactured in their state-of-the-art workshop in West

From sofas and armchairs to elegantly crafted bespoke pieces; the company has positioned itself as a true ambassador for British design and manufacturing. London, which also houses their timber workshop, fabric gallery, delivery and installation service and stunning furniture showroom.


+ To advertise in this section please call Melba or James on 020 7819 9999

Kyfer Holdings

Specialising in Prime Real Estate in Central London

If you are looking for short or long term rentals in Central London, Kyfer Holdings have a portfolio with thousands worth of flats and houses in the best postcodes across the Capital. All of our properties are managed in-house so you deal directly with the landlord. We aim to smash the stereotype of a typical private landlord, our tenants benefit from clean and modern properties, dedicated building managers and 24 hour maintenance support. Kyfer Holdings, 43 Berkeley Square, Mayfair, London W1J 5FJ • Tel:08448 125680

www.kyferholdings.com

Portenzo. The Portenzo Alano for iPad offers very distinguished cases while protecting the iPad. Each case is handmade from the finest materials. The premium leather is hand-distressed and hand-softened to give a broken-in look and feel. Each Portenzo Case is fully customisable. For a full list of colours and options, visit www.shop.portenzo.com or email awesomeperson@portenzo.com or call +1.314.779.3619.


+ To advertise in this section please call Melba or James on 020 7819 9999

THE ULTIMATE IN SUPERCAR PROTECTION. innovative tailored protection

INDOOR & OUTDOOR CUSTOM MADE CAR COVERS DESIGNED BY YOU.

NEW

photocover

The Signature Collection FOLLOW US

ORED. FULLY TAIL. ANY MODEL. ANY MAKE

30 Years Established

British Design & Manufacture

Ski it in Style

CALL OUR TEAM ON

01943 864 646 VISIT OUR WEBSITE

specialisedcovers.com

Speak to a Signature Collection specialist on

08444 930 430 or visit Skiworld.co.uk

for our full range of chalets, hotels & apartments

DISCOUNT CODE : SQUARE-01

squaremile95x125.indd 1

‘PRIVATE VIEW’ by Deborah Azzopardi Unique artwork on Aluminium

ArtYouGrewUpWith.com Iconic Original & Limited Edition Artwork for all ages Tel: 0800 098 8743 • Email: info@artyougrewupwith.com

15/11/2012 12:22

William & George, 10 Kingly Street, London, W1B 5PJ Tel: 020 7734 8816 Email: info@williamandgeorgelondon.co.uk www.williamandgeorgelondon.co.uk


+ To advertise in this section please call Melba or James on 020 7819 9999

Urban Lounge Gear www.sumolounge.com

Tradition, tailored for your lifestyle. Outstanding, powerful and striking iconic Defender editions to suit every adventure, taste and lifestyle. Work with our team to create your own unique Icon loaded with style, speed and performance. Delivering excellence worldwide. Defender Icon – driven to excess!

www.defendericon.com icon@neneoverland.co.uk T: 01733 380687

SEVEN ARTISTS An amazing opportunity to invest in the artists of the future

The Strand Gallery 32 John Adam Street, WC2N 6BP • March 18th-24th “The hunt for investment art can be suprisingly exciting and fulfilling, the profit accrued can be magnificent” Tel: 07595 070554 • www.theart-investor.com

THE ART-INVESTOR.COM


squaremile

+ To advertise in this section please call Melba or James on 020 7819 9999

JW WALLS

VARRAMISTA

Create customised wall murals that transform any space. Choose from over 900 designs including collections from TATE, Scala and their network of artists and illustrators or upload your own image to create something totally unique for your home or business.

Varramista is in the heart of Tuscany and comprises of three country homes available for holiday rental.

Featured here is ‘Payola” from the Jelly Collection. T: 0800 433 4663 E: support@jwwalls.com W: www.jwwalls.com

AROMATHERAPY ASSOCIATES

The new Refinery skincare range is a wide collection of male-specific products combining aromatherapy expertise with the unique knowledge of specialised male grooming. This pioneering skincare collection will care for day to night requirements of pre and post shaved skin, leaving it protected from aggressive environmental stresses while looking clear, fresh and balanced.

Varramista also produce excellent wines and olive oil. We organize wine tours of the cellars and wine tasting. E: info@varramista.it W: www.varramista.it

MARK MICHAEL ART New British artist Mark Michael’s striking and unmistakable wall art is for individuals brave enough to exhibit what they honestly think and feel. His website houses his “Taboo” and “Satire” collections as well as his latest bold brash acrylics and limited edition giclee prints. Contact John Hayes for further information.

T: 020 8569 7030 E: info@aromatherapyassociates.com W: www.aromatherapyassociates.com

T: 07734 470633 E: johnhayes@markmichaelart.com W: www.markmichaelart.com

CAMERON GARDENS

CHRIS KERR BESPOKE TAILOR

At Cameron Gardens we create beautiful, innovative yet funtional gardens. From contemporary, cutting-edge courtyards or roof terraces, perfect for sophisticated al fresco dining, to vibrant, practical family gardens, our designs are guaranteed to enhance your lifestyle. We provide dynamic design, expert planting advice and slick project management. Our inspiration is making your wildest ideas come alive. T: 0208 969 3399 E: info@camerongardens.co.uk W: www.camerongardens.co.uk

PORTABLE POWER ON THE MOVE Mobile power packs for all your portable devices including iPhones and iPads etc. MSC offer a wide range of rechargeable power banks that can give up to 10 charges to a mobile, for either emergency use or every day portable power. The perfect cure for ‘battery anxiety’. E: enquiries@mobilesolarchargers.co.uk W: www.mobilesolarchargers.co.uk

At Chris Kerr we create hand cut bespoke suits for our clients. We are tailors of the strictest Savile Row tradition but based in Soho for the more informal approach. We have over 6000 fabrics to choose from and can accommodate any style preference you may have. T: 0207 437 3727 E: chris@chriskerr.com W: www.chriskerr.com

Talland Beach coTTages TALLAND BAYBay BEACH COTTAGES Thetwo twodetached detached cottages are situated in The cottages are situated in private private and sheltered gardens and sheltered gardens adjacent to adjacent the beach to in the beach in Talland is a unspoilt refreshingly Talland Bay. TallandBay. is aTalland refreshingly unspoilt coastal hamlet which lies midway coastal hamlet which lies midway beween Looe beween Looe Polperro in an area of and Polperro in and an area of outstanding natural outstanding natural beauty and perfect beauty and is the perfect location forisathe traditional location for a traditional beach holiday, for beach holiday, forwalking the beautiful coastal walking pathsattractions. and for paths andthe for beautiful visiting thecoastal area’s many visiting area’s many attractions. T: 01503the 264300 T: 01503 264300 E: juneslee6@yahoo.co.uk E: juneslee6@yahoo.co.uk W: www.tallandbeachcottages.co.uk www.tallandbeachcottages.co.uk

GRACE&HOME

VÉLOBICI

At grace&home we aim to source beautiful homeware and gifts.

Vélobici was born from our passion for style and comfort on and off your bike. We design and manufacture beautiful apparel for riding, socialising or working. Our clothing and accessories are made using the highest quality performance and traditional fabrics. All VB products are designed and manufactured in the UK.

This fabric postcard bunting is available through grace&homeLtd. You can find other gorgeous products at www.graceandhome.co.uk T: 01795 538 783 E: info@graceandhome.co.uk W: www.graceandhome.co.uk

156

The Historical Villa is the ideal place for wedding parties and meetings.

T: 0116 254 0066 E: info@velobici.com W: www.velobici.com


EssEntials

+ to advertise in this section please call Melba or James on 020 7819 9999

MOUNT ANYTHING, ANYWHERE! introducing the most intuitive mount on the market; the RaM X-Grip™ breeds a new dimension in quick, simple and effective mounting solutions. Designed to grip any smartphone or slimline sat-nav in a landscape or portrait orientation, with a one-pinch system the arms of the X-Grip™ automatically adjust to give you an unbeatable in-car user experience.

Beautifully sculpted engagement and wedding ring sets by award-winning designer goldsmith liz tyler. to view collections in gold and platinum set with fine diamonds and fabulous coloured gemstones visit: www.liztyler.com

For more information on RaM products or to buy a RaM X-Grip™ holder with a lifetime warranty included please visit: www.ram-mount.co.uk

t: 01258 820 222 E: liztyler@me.com W: www.liztyler.com

GROOMU.CO.UK

GAS GALLERY

GroomU is a new easy to use male grooming website offering the best in top branded male grooming products. GroomU aim to be the new face in male grooming. samples are sent out with every order to enable guys to try out new brands and products, all with free delivery! they boast a huge array of quality respected brands, such as anthony logistics, Men science, Kyoku, Men-U Hairbond.. the list goes on! Quote ‘SQUAREMILE’ W: www.groomu.co.uk at checkout for free E: info@groomu.co.uk express delivery.

Beautiful Art & Design

Choose from our luxury men’s accessories range, hand crafted in london using only the finest fabrics and finishing standards, or have something tailored just for you with your choice of fabric and design. t: 07967 961185 E: info@magties.co.uk W: www.magties.co.uk

For the perfect kakes on the go! they bake with love those yummy flavoured ‘kake’ balls coated in exquisite chocolate and eye-catching decorations. ten everyday flavours with a bespoke service. no messy hands…guaranteed! nationwide delivery. Quote SM11 to get a 10% discount

CLASSIC LAND/RANGE ROVERS FROM THE LAND ROVER CENTRE Established 1968 – there’s nO substitute for experience! Good Old fashioned customer service. “Touch ‘em, Feel ‘em, use ‘em... ...Better then money in the bank!” t: 01484 542092 W: www.landrovercentre.com

all enquiries: Gina Cross. t: 020 3627 2350 E: art@gasart.co.uk W: www.gasgallery.co.uk

Polly is an English goldsmith who works exclusively in 22ct gold, and the gems she uses are semi-precious stones which complement the rich metal perfectly. Because she works alone and makes everything by hand none of her collection can be identically repeated, so each piece is a unique treasure. t: 08448 802 989 E: polly@pollygasstongoldsmith.co.uk W: www.pollygasstongoldsmith.co.uk

POPKAKERY

t: 0800 1455515 E: order@popkakery.com W: popkakery.com

Gas is an emerging studio based gallery showcasing high quality, stylish and collectible limited edition prints, originals and decorative applied art. Work is available to order online and to view in our Kennington showroom by appointment.

POLLY GASSTON GOLDSMITH

MAGTIES

MagTies

LIZ TYLER

LOOKING TO INVEST IN A CLASSIC CAR? the autocar storage Company provides a practical solution for the purchase and management of your investment. • secure Dehumidified storage • in House Detailing • Collection and Delivery • Full servicing options • Event preparation t: 07745 819890 E: martin@autocarstorage.com W: www.autocarstorage.com

HEATHER STOWELL JEWELLERY the perfect match for double cuffs, British jewellery designer Heather stowell incorporates beautiful vintage mother of pearl buttons into hand made settings using Rose Gold or sterling silver transforming them into contemporary unique cufflinks and bespoke ladies jewellery. See Heather showing her new work at the Desire Fair, Kensington, London. March 15th-17th 2013 t: 01638 739 197 E: info@heatherstowell.com W: www.heatherstowell.com

157


+ To advertise in this section please call Melba or James on 020 7819 9999

The Art of Bespoke Tailoring

there is no substitute for experience

5$-0,5385, BESPOKE CLOTHIERS since 1976 london

Geneva

1st floor, 110 new bond street entrance on brook street 020 7907 9110

1er etage 12 rue du marche 022 816 3780

www.mirpuri.com

Become a Fox Club Bar Member for only £250 (normally £350)

For Details Quote “Square Mile” to bethan@foxclublondon.com

The Fox Club, Mayfair’s best kept Secret 46 Clarges Street, London W1J 7ER tel 020 7495 3656 fax 020 7495 3626

www.foxclublondon.com

An imaginative and stylish range of cowhide furniture which is as individual as you are Tel: 0207 183 4303 • Email: info@londoncows.co.uk

www.londoncows.co.uk


End PLAY

—noticeboard—

London Boat SHow In aSSocIatIon wItH

at ExcEl london

The Tullett Prebon London Boat Show returned to ExCeL London this January to showcase the best the marine world has to offer. Four-time British Freestyle Jet Ski Champion Jack Moule entertained with a dazzling water display. The event was full of activities

squaremile.com

for all the family and launches from leading brands including Sunseeker, Princess, and Fairline. There were a fair few famous faces in amongst the action, including Chris Evans, Princess Anne, and four-time consecutive Olympic gold medallist Ben Ainslie. ■

For more events, go to squaremile.com

159


square mile Presents:

Been good throughout January? stuck to your detox? Well done, you. But now all that nonsense is behind you, get back on a diet of mischief with our club nights at Clause bar in association with City Life. On the first Friday of every month, we’re hosting a night at Clause bar and we want you there with us. so, forget the January blues; unwind with great cocktails, and listen to some of the City’s best DJs and musicians. think of it as the real start to 2013, no matter how half-hearted your new Year’s resolutions might have been. Free entry and happy ‘hour’ between 5-8pm should sweeten the deal further, as does a free bottle of bubbly for bookings of ten or more. ■ Email info@clause-bar.co.uk or call 020 7283 5181 to reserve an area. 1 Lovat Lane, City of London, EC3R 8DT

—EvEnts—

Charity Words

Laura Barnett

Rays of sunshine Rays of Sunshine makes the impossible happen every day by granting wishes for seriously ill children in the UK. The charity, which is celebrating its 10th birthday this year, has a number of events to tempt you into challenging yourself and making money for a great cause. 9 March

Tap into your inner adrenaline junkie and abseil down the Rays of Sunshine office building at Olympic Way, Wembley. 19 March

Gamble without the guilt at the Rays of Sunshine Poker Night at the Hippodrome in Leicester Square.

23 June

Runday: five distances to suit all ages and abilities in Luton Hoo, Bedfordshire.

13 June

Rays of Sunshine Annual Golf Day at the renowned Coombe Hill course in Surrey.

14 July

Work up a sweat running through the heart of London in the British 10km London Run. 4 August

RideLondon 100: A 100 mile cycle ride. 8 September

Tri for Life triathlon: Sign up for the Rays of Sunshine wave of this event – 5km run, 20km cycle, 400m swim – held at Woburn Abbey, Bedfordshire. 12 September Charity Challenges: (from top to bottom) stretch your legs with the royal Parks half Marathon; take to your bikes and get involved in ridelondon’s inaugural 100 mile ride; see london’s iconic landmarks in the British 10k london run.

160

City v Wharf: find out which area really is the champion of the financial district in this 5km running challenge. 6 October

Royal Parks Half Marathon. To find out more or register, contact: 020 8782 1171;

raysofsunshine.org.uk

squaremile.com


End PLAY

—EvEnts—

february City highlightS City style: (clockwise from top left) Bread st Kitchen in One New Change; lanterns in trafalgar; revellers at a Bacanal night; somerset House hosts the london Fashion Weekend; watch the super Bowl XlVii in style at skyloft

Ultimat Vodka SUper Bowl party

SqUare mile BroomBall toUrnament

Vodafone london faShion weekend

Skyloft, 3 February

Broadgate Ice, 12 February

Somerset House, 21-24 February

Watch the Super Bowl in style this year at Skyloft in the Millbank Tower. See the action on a huge 87” screen, enjoy complimentary Ultimat vodka cocktails and get competitive on fussball tables while watching the most important sporting event ever (if you’re American). There will be All-American football food with a nod to New Orleans – think corndogs and jambalaya – comfortable seating, luxurious surroundings and stunning views. Only issue is that it’s on from 10pm-3am, so Monday morning might be a bit of a struggle…

You probably haven’t heard of broomball and, to be honest, neither had we. But any sport that looks like a You’ve Been Framed! highlight-reel of people falling over sounds like fun to us. Think ice hockey without the skates and you’ve got the right idea. squaremile.com

square mile is a partner of this year’s London Fashion Weekend, which naturally means it’s going to be brilliant. Watch Somerset House transform into a four-day designer shopping emporium and see preview shows for spring and summer trends from some of the best British designers. There will be talks from industry experts, entertainment from top DJs, and great pop-up shops and restaurants. It’s very fashion, darling.

wegottickets.com/ultimat

how to Be a lie deteCtor Museum of London, 19 February

Professor Glenn D Wilson gives a talk on how to tell whether someone is lying by studying verbal and body language clues. All very handy for finding out if that broker really is getting you the best price he can.

londonfashionweekend.co.uk

poSh pUB qUiz Bread Street Kitchen, 25 February

gresham.ac.uk

The ever-popular Posh Pub Quiz visits Gordon Ramsay’s Bread Street Kitchen in One New Change. We mean quizness.

Enjoy New Year all over again with the Trafalgar Square parade, celebrating the start of the Chinese Year of the Snake. It starts at 10.15am and finishes up on Rupert Street at 11.30am. There will then be live entertainment on the main stage at Trafalgar Square from 12pm-5.40pm, and celebration feasts to enjoy afterwards in China Town.

CarnaVal de BaCanal

onenewchange.com

Bacanal’s invitation-only parties have redefined London’s party scene. This annual brunch brings the Rio Carnival to London, featuring exciting live performers, musicians and DJs. Bacanal attracts a loyal crowd of fun-loving, young professionals.

old timeS By harold pinter

chinatownlondon.org

bacanal.co.uk

oldtimestheplay.com ■

ChineSe new year parade Trafalgar Square, 10 February

squaremile.com

TBA, 23 February Harold Pinter Theatre, throughout February

Kristin Scott Thomas, Rufus Sewell and Lia Williams star in Harold Pinter’s seductive and compelling drama Old Times, directed by Ian Rickson.

161


End play

CitypediA

Richard Mackney’s Financial Encyclopedia

Bank

From Citypedia, the financial encyclopedia A bank is a financial institution that accepts deposits and pretends to lend those deposits to people and businesses. There are two main types of banks in the UK, known commonly as ‘Those Bastards’ and ‘The Other Ones’.[1] Banks used to be one of the most respected institutions in the community. Since 2007, however, they are generally held in the same public regard as incest, Jimmy Savile or Scousers.[2]

History Banking, in the modern sense of the word, can be traced to medieval and early Renaissance Italy, where it was dominated by families including the Shifti, Crafti and Cashinthehandi. One of the most famous Italian banks was the Banco di Silvio in Milan, renowned throughout the land for its ‘bunga bunga’ style of banking [3] in which substantial sums of money were placed in the bra straps of teenage Moroccan bellydancers and small deposits made on their faces.The oldest UK bank still in existence is a branch of Lloyds TSB in Birmingham, opened in 1765 and where many of the original staff continue to work.[4]

Banking Channels

162

Business model A bank will generate revenue in a variety of different ways. The chief source of revenue in recent years has been through a system known as Payment Protection Insurance which involves menacing vulnerable people and bullying them until they give in. Revenue is also raised by charging interest on the capital the bank lends to customers. That rate is usually pitched somewhere between exorbitant and ridiculous, and in most banks is usually decided upon by a man called Geoff after a few calls to some mates, and depending on how many beers he consumed at lunchtime. Banks have also expanded the use of riskbased pricing which involves charging higher interest rates to customers who are old, hard of hearing or just a bit thick.

Banking Crisis Banking crises have developed many times throughout history, however the financial crisis of 2007-2008 is considered by many economists to be the main cause of their inability to get girlfriends. It is now an accepted fact that banks are solely to blame for the financial crisis[5] and that it had absolutely nothing to do with greedy people buying things they couldn’t afford.[6] Since 2008 banks are frequently blamed for everything else, including unusually wet summers, the decline of the hedge sparrow, most forms of eczema and the invention of Harriet Harman.

Regulation

Northern Rock was one of a number of ‘joke banks’ set up as part of a hidden camera show hosted by TV’s Robert Peston. It was part of an experiment to see if a bank could be run by people who couldn’t count.

commonly used for sheltering from rain showers or late-night public urination. The training necessary to work in retail banking can take anything from one to two hours, during which trainees are taught to avoid eye contact, mumble, and push bits of paper underneath narrow gaps. Investment banks: The other ones. River banks: Waterside savings locations commonly used by cartoon otters. Piggy banks: traditional, porcelain-based porcine savings facility used by teenagers to hide packets of king-size Rizlas. Sperm banks: DNA-storage facility used by some of the UK’s leading masturbators. Jeff Banks: effete fashion institution.

References 1. ‘Those bastards who nicked all our money,’ Ken Lefty, The Socialist Trouser, 2 November 2009 2. See also: estate agents, utility companies, politicians, other people’s children, Piers Morgan 3. ‘Italian police seize Berlusconi’s erection’, Razzle

Due to their influence within a financial system and an economy, banks are highly regulated under a system known as WOTE (Wool Over The Eyes) in which they say one thing but do something completely different.

Types of banks

de Milano, 18 January 2012 4. ‘Scientists discover remains of Brummies trapped behind desks’, The Birmingham Evening Trumpet, 23 Feb 2010 5. ‘The reason our lives are so rubbish,’ a report for the Office for Convenient Explanations, March 2011 6. ‘Why can’t I have a massive house and a new sports car?’ demands thick man clutching empty

Retail banks: High street banks are most

bottle of cider, East Suffolk Scummer, 29 May 2011

squaremile.com

PhotograPh by Ben Stansall/afp/getty Images

Banks offer many different channels to access their banking and other services. ATM: small machine installed in a high street wall, often smeared with the dried sick of homeless people and fitted with a screen saying ‘Out of order’. Branch: a retail location comprising teenage staff in nylon uniforms, tiny pens with no ink on chains, and fat women called Linda who attempt to solve financial problems by handing out lots of useless pamphlets. Mobile banking: a method of using one’s mobile phone to line the pockets of a dodgy man based in Nigeria. Telephone banking: a service allowing customers to receive one-to-one banking

advice at a premium rate in frankly barely decipherable English from a 12-year-old child slave in South-East Asia.


the ultimate experience

An annual membership to Searcys Club | The Gherkin can be custom tailored to enhance the lifestyle of both travelling executives and those London based, and provides access to London’s highest private members club with spectacular views of the city.

To discuss the benefits and application to the Club please contact 020 7071 7215 | theclub@searcys.co.uk | www.searcys.co.uk


Square Mile - 76 - The Style Issue  

Square Mile Magazine - 76 - The Style Issue

Read more
Read more
Similar to
Popular now
Just for you