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£4 ISSUE 147 ISSN 1752-9956





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HEN BREAKING BAD was conceived, Jesse Pinkman’s

role was meant to be relatively small – a second fiddle to Walter White’s orchestral piano. Originally, the character was meant to be killed off before the end of the series one. But Aaron Paul’s performance was so captivating that director and writer Vince Gilligan gave him a larger role – from protégé to partner. Through scenes of farcical comedy and deep personal turmoil, pumped-up adrenaline and wholly drained exhaustion, Paul took us on Pinkman’s journey. We joined him for the ride, even if it was Walter behind the wheel. His deliciously frequent use of the word ‘bitch’ became so pervasive at the height of the show’s fame that people would shout it at the actor as he walked down the street. Apparently, it’s continued to this day – more than six years on from the show’s finale. “So many people say, ‘Will you call my wife a bitch? It’ll make her so happy!’” he admits. “It’s ridiculous, it’s amazing… I’ll call whoever they want a bitch.” When Gilligan reached out to Paul to see if he was up for making a Breaking Bad movie, there was only ever going to be one answer. Indeed, his first read through the script left him speechless. Fortunately, when Beth McColl caught up with him ahead of the film’s release this month, he had a lot to say – and a lot of love to give. Enjoy our exclusive cover interview on p52.

THIS ISSUE IS also our ninth annual Watch Special – covering everything from steel sports watches to diamond-encrusted wristlets; we sail the seas with Rolex and fly around the world with Patek Philippe. And we announce this year’s shortlist for the square mile Watch Awards in association with Rémy Martin. The winners will be announced on 17 October at a glitzy black-tie ceremony in the Leadenhall Building. As we go to press, there are a few tickets still available, so drop me a line if you fancy joining us. ■

Mark Hedley, Editor,

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“Until you have all the information, you should save judgement upon somebody that you don’t know.” Meet the real @danbilzerian in this issue of Square Mile – out today. Photography by: @dankennedyphoto

Ferraris… just like London buses. Said no one. Ever. The photo shows 31 Ferrari 288 GTOs lined up outside the Maranello factory in 1984. This collection would be worth £102m to buy today. Photo from: @valveandpiston

Sean Connery is the ultimate Bond. Discuss… “@lucasoakeley: Justice4Pierce” “@arnoldism7: Try @henrycavill. Definitely a close one.” “@mode9uk: No discussion... end of!”

Landmark Place provides hotel-style living with access to world-class amenities, including a 24-hour concierge. service, wellness spa, business suite and cinema room. The Stirling penthouse is the jewel in the crown.






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Six years on from the finale of Breaking Bad, Jesse Pinkman is back. We talk to Aaron Paul about reprising his most iconic role.

060 . CHRISTIAN HORNER The Principal of Red Bull Racing may have been tipped for Formula 1’s top job, but his competitive streak means he’s in no rush to stop what he’s doing any time soon. “Nobody likes crashing, but it’s part of the job…” Find out what keeps the reigning MotoGP champion coming back for more.

068 . ULTIMATE ROAD TRIPS Road trips? The coolest way to travel, period. Buckle up and get ready for the ride – we’ve got six of the world’s best for you to explore.








ASSETS 111 . FOOD & DRINK 112 . WINE 115 . SUITE SPOTS 118 . MOTORS 120 . TRAVEL 129 . GOLF



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Official fuel consumption in mpg (l/100km) and CO2 emissions (g/km) for the Alpine A110 range are: Combined 43.4 (6.5) to 44.1 (6.4) and CO2 144 to 146 g/km. WLTP figures shown are for comparability purposes; only compare figures with vehicles tested to the same technical procedures. Actual real world driving results may vary depending on factors such as weather conditions, driving styles, vehicle load or any accessories fitted after registration. WLTP is a new test used for fuel consumption and CO2 figures however until April 2020 the CO2 figures are based on the outgoing (NEDC) test cycle which will be used to calculate vehicle tax on first registration. For more information, please see or consult your Alpine Centre. Data correct at time of going to print. Figures quoted are for a range of configurations and are subject to change due to ongoingapprovals/changes. Model shown is an Alpine A110S with options. Please consult your Alpine Centre for further information.

Elegance is an attitude


Simon Baker



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ART WORK by Nicholas Kontaxis



1. Present your complaint in a reasonable, tactful manner without emotion. 2. If this doesn’t work, scream the office down like John McEnroe on an angry day. (Headband recommended.) 3. Spend time preparing what you want to say. If necessary read out your complaint, unfolding it like a town crier. Wear a silly hat. 4. Deploy simple language and, if appropriate, a marksman in the corner. 5. If the mood takes you express your complaint through the medium of dance (the Paso Doble is ideal here). 6. Ensure the complaint is valid (concerns over




the price of cod may not be deemed so). 7. Never complain if you are tired, hungry, angry, hangry, ungry or slegnant (a mix of sleepy and pregnant). 8. Decide what you want to achieve (more fairness/money/sex after work). 9. Direct your complaint at the right person (Aunt Beryl won’t be interested). 10. Use flash-card emojis. 11. Resist going on the rampage with a stapler, paper baton or erection. 12. If you find confrontation tricky, exploit the many options open to the passive-aggressive. These include sending a poison pen letter (do not sign), and kicking the recipient of your complaint up the backside then running off. 13. Organise a press conference outside the main entrance and call Sky News. 14. Write a ten-part Netflix series based loosely on your complaint. 15. Please note: all complaints about yourself should be restricted to therapy. ■



▷ Despite being perpetually busy, The Porterhouse is never short on space nor screens. If you were blindfolded and put into this pub a dozen times, you may not guess it was the same building. Just a small walk from Covent Garden, it’s a pub to park-up at for breakfast before sipping on the brilliant self-brewed stouts and waiting for the atmosphere to build into kick off. A rugby day out doesn’t get much better than this, just make sure you’ve stocked up at the bar before the crowds get too big. Probably a safer haven for the neutrals or non-English too, given the size of it. For more info, see



PERSHING 140 WORDS Vicky Smith

▷ The new Pershing 140 is a pretty special vessel. Firstly, it’s the first Pershing to be manufactured in aluminium. It’s also the first to feature a raised cockpit directly connected to the sun



▷ That’s right rugby-loving-hipsters, this is where Ed Sheeran recorded his ‘record you probably haven’t heard because it came out before the first album but you maintain is his best work’. The pub also knows a thing or two about putting on the rugby, having ample space, a huge selection of drinks, and stand-out pub grub. It’ll be opening early for home nation games and the latter stages, to cater for the time-zone shift, so if you’re near Balham and fancy the game over a Full English, you just found your new local. Just don’t forget to tell your mates which of the five bars you’ll be sitting at. For more info, see

deck; the first to have an owner-dedicated area on the main deck, and the first to maximise enjoyability of all the decks and outdoor areas. Perhaps most pertinently, though, it’s the brand’s first foray into superyacht

It’s capable of a top speed of 38 knots, features tailor-made interiors, and there are five guest cabins (sleeping ten). There’s also a waterside beach club, a garage big enough for a jet ski and tender, and plenty of space

territory, and it’s a pretty sweet debut. The 42.98m-long ship has the kind of sleek and sporty lines the luxury Italian yacht brand is renowned for, thanks to design by Fulvio De Simoni, the man behind every Pershing since 1985.


on-deck given over to sunbathing areas. In short, it’s a bit of a game changer for the brand, a new flagship that’s not just built for powering through waves, but very much intended to make them, too. ■ For more information, see


▷ Crowds during the World Cup are always an issue. Great big massive units swaying and swinging a greater big mass of units, all hustling and jostling around the TV like some gigantic boozy maul. Fortunately, The Latchmere is equally great. Given that there are four gardens, you could probably host your own rugby games, too (although, you didn’t get that idea from us). Opening from 8am, its Rugby World Cup breakfast menu has food sorted so your stomach will be happy whatever the score. And if the rugby is lacking in drama, the theatre upstairs certainly won’t be. For more info, see ■




▽ ALTHOUGH A YOUNG company, Parfums de

T H E  E X C H A N G E

Marly was founded on a historical notion: to reincarnate the splendour of the 18th Century – and in particular the court of King Louis XV. The king of France was a renowned connoisseur of fine fragrances – his court was even known as “la cour parfumée” (the perfumed court). Some of the best perfumes were created for him in commemoration of prestigious horse races – his other lifelong love. Founded in 2009, Parfums de Marly now has nearly 30 fragrances in its stable. The logo contains a brace of rearing horses – a symbolic tribute to the company’s inspiration. The newest fragrance from the house is called Kalan. As Julien Sprecher, founder of Parfums de Marly, explains: “When I build a perfume, I want it to have roundness, that is to say, a present, seductive head, along with an immediately perceptible bottom. We could also talk about aura. The harmony between the materials, between the chords, creates an olfactory music.” The result is a fragrance that is intense yet subtle. Expect black pepper and spices with fresh notes of blood orange and lavender, evolving to white sandalwood. ■ Kalan costs £160 (75ml); £200 (£125). For more info:





▷ My career in the City spanned management consultancy at Accenture, private equity and marketing strategy. I enjoyed the variety of roles and learning about consumer businesses across different disciplines. But I always knew I wanted to set up a business creating beautiful products – and footwear was a passion. While on summer holidays I had loved the simple charm of espadrilles but believed there was an opportunity to develop an

elevated, more durable version of the summer staple. I took a few months to explore the idea and attended a shoe design course at Central St Martins to create the prototype. The vision for MULO was born in 2012. Designed in London and expertly handmade in our Portuguese workshops with the very finest materials sourced from Italian tanners and Japanese mills,

each pair is crafted in 100 individual stages including sports industry engineering that adds maximum comfort to the premium fit. Today, seven years on, MULO shoes are available from our own website and 50 premium retailers worldwide. We launch two new collections each year, as well as a number of joint collaborations. ■

THE GREAT ESCAPE To see our full archive of Escape Artists head to








MIND OVER MATTER While his work is undeniably arresting, Kontaxis’ story is just as compelling. The self-taught artist was born with a brain tumour that resulted in him suffering daily seizures. This made finding an entry-level job challenging so he filled his time producing the kind of large-scale acrylics that have now made him famous. He’s been commissioned by the likes of Adidas and Coachella, and amassed high-profile fans including Roger Federer and Eric Schmidt, but the ability to harness his unique talent to overcome obstacles is the true measure of Kontaxis’ success.

Contemporary abstract artist Nicholas Kontaxis burst onto London’s art scene last month with his first ever UK show making a colourful statement at 35 Baker Street. The 23-year old American’s big, bold pieces – including ‘Get Out of Town’, pictured here – are a beautiful exercise in free expression, drawing the eye but also the mind to seek the many layers of meaning within.





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THE CITY INSIDER In her new column, NANA WEREKO-BROBBY checks out the newest openings in town. This month, she headed for dinner at Circolo Popolare and drinks at Rockwell

“WELL THIS IS jolly isn’t it?” my friend shouts to me as she weaves through a throng of packed tables and cheerful men embracing, negronis in hand. Sadly, Sicily this is not, but there’s certainly something of the playful island evident at Circolo Popolare, from the over-the-top interiors to the air of boozy celebration on a Sunday. This is the second opening this year from Big Mamma Group (the first being Shoreditch’s instant hit Gloria) and despite sitting just behind Tottenham Court Road, the front door may as well be a closet to Narnia, because this certainly ain’t London. When the restaurant is full – which I imagine it is often – 280 guests are seated against a backdrop of lavish chandeliers, hanging wisteria, hundreds (possibly even thousands) of bottles of wine and spirits lining the walls, and picture frames everywhere. It’s totally mad and distracting, but certainly ignites a fire in all of those who enter. On a Sunday, the age-old question of

the same feeling as that first cool Peroni on holiday. (You know – the one by the swimming pool when you’ve finally arrived at your hilltop villa.) The menu on a Sunday is a monster, from brunch classics with a flourish (avocado on toast with stracciatella cheese and Tuscan ham), to generous pizzas with playful names (I Wanna Nduja) and a signature carbonara for two that arrives in a giant round of pecorino. My intolerant-to-everything companion started off with a fresh tomato glutenfree bruschetta with burrata, followed by an Italian chopped salad presented in a bowl you’d feed a family from, adding some sizzle to the only virtuous dish on the menu. Meanwhile, I grazed on an incredibly moreish plate of San Daniele ham and a simple, unctuous tomato and aubergine linguine with creamy burrata and a snowstorm of parmesan. I absolutely loved every single mouthful. The conviviality of the place is mirrored by the team, who seem to be constantly

egging you on to relax and take your time. The best way to finish off a meal here is with espressos and the Dessert Island, a whipped egg-white mountain with caramel rivulets. Then promise to return with a gaggle of friends next time, ideally in the throws of a blurry hangover or when battling those end of summer blues. Circolo, you eccentric, silly aunt, we’ll be back when life gets a little too London.

Hotel bars in London are getting pretty sassy these days, from the seriously sumptuous Waeska bar at the Mandrake to the retro, loosen-that-goddamn-tie design of Double Standard at The Standard. Matching those ambitions is Rockwell, the new cocktail destination at The Trafalgar St James hotel which opened in Spring. A complete overhaul of the hotel’s former restaurant – which was better suited to slick lunch meetings than trysts – this new manifestation is all about fabulous cocktails, total escapism and bedding down on a banquette for hours, preferably while wearing something louche. Interiorswise, it’s Charles Darwin meets Salvador Dalí, with ferns creeping down from the ceiling, ornate drapes, exotic murals, fringed lampshades and crushed red velvet. The cocktail list has a decent amount of swag, with impossibly chic glassware and fussy dried fruit embellishments adding to the whispered drama. Perhaps it’s the air of opium den about the place at night but you feel the need to drink gin, and lots of it. Start soft(ish) with a Plymouth G&T and end the night with filthy martinis and a round of ceviche tacos.

Circolo Popolare, 40-41 Rathbone Place, Fitzrovia,

Rockwell, 2 Spring Gardens, St James’s, SW1A 2TS.

W1T 1HX;

For more info, see ■

❱❱ CIRCOLO POPOLARE IS TOTALLY MAD, OVER THE TOP AND DISTRACTING, BUT IT CERTAINLY IGNITES A FIRE IN ALL OF THOSE WHO ENTER ‘to drink or not to drink’ is eclipsed by a much, much harder decision: whether to park the idea of a crisp white and instead go for Insta-gold with a tit-adorned cocktail mug packed with three rums, almond and hibiscus syrup, triple sec, lime and passion fruit. Look Me In The Eyes, you’re a cruel temptress… For those who do abstain, there’s a spread of Italian sodas, with the bittersweet Chinotto Lurisia poured on a Pisa tower of ice giving you almost





HENRY SHIELDS For playwright and actor Henry Shields, The Play That Goes Wrong was the start of things going very, very right… He tells MAX WILLIAMS about penning a West End hit

HENRY SHIELDS WASN’T always going to get into theatre, but when the stage came calling, the 31-year-old playwright and actor answered by co-writing one of the biggest West End comedy hits in years, and that was only the beginning… Tell us about your new play… It’s called Groan Ups – it’s about growing up. All of us play the same characters at three different points in their lives: at six years old, at 13 years old, and at 30 years old. It’s a lot of fun to rehearse! How did you get into theatre? I didn’t really know what I wanted to do with myself; I studied nursing at university, and dropped out after the first year, then I auditioned for drama school and got into LAMDA. I met the other guys there, and we created Mischief Theatre. The Play That Goes Wrong was your debut production… It was based on Michael Green’s

Moving to bigger theatres must have brought opportunity, but also challenges? Yes. In order to take the show on tour, we needed a runtime of two hours, so we had to scale things up significantly. A lot of stuff was added, big set-piece stuff. I got hit by a piece of falling set in our first show in Canterbury: it got a big laugh. What’s your writing process? There are three of us who so far have written everything Mischief Theatre has done. We sit in a room with a laptop and try and make each other laugh. The funny stuff gets written down, the stuff that isn’t gets ignored. Beyond that, there’s a level of technicality to it, where you have to start talking about structure and characters, story, how things interweave. How do you know if a joke will be a hit? You have to take a leap of faith sometimes. We do a lot of tests. We take a new script to the cast, do a read through, and do rewrites for a couple of months.

❱❱ I GOT HIT BY A PIECE OF FALLING SET IN OUR FIRST SHOW OF THE PLAY THAT GOES WRONG IN CANTERBURY: IT GOT A BIG LAUGH… The Art of Coarse Acting plays – little miniversions of The Play That Goes Wrong. It started out as an hour, and then grew to two hours over a few years.


First night nerves or excitement? Both! In equal measure. The first night is

Do you feel the same with the new play? Well, now we’re in a place where we go in with more confidence. Doing Groan Ups, I feel I know that a lot of it is very funny. I feel very confident about the stuff we’ve covered in rehearsals – but you never know for certain. What are the plans for the future? We’re working on Magic Goes Wrong, with Penn and Teller; I think that will be our last Goes Wrong stage show for a very long time, maybe forever. Personally I’m looking to do more TV and film – I feel ready to try different stuff. ■ For tickets:

PHOTOGRAPH by Joseph Sinclair

Rehearsals must have been intense… The first time we rehearsed we only had two weeks, no director. It was in this tiny little room in London Bridge. The show only ran for 45 minutes: to make it a full hour, we ended with this 15-minute, in-character Q&A with the audience.

Are there many jokes that you’re really proud of, but then don’t land? Yeah, loads! In Comedy About A Bank Robbery there was a whole section that we really thought was going to work. [It involved seagull puppets.] We tried it out with an audience and it died a horrid death. It lasted one show; it was such a failure we had to remove it.

always terrifying – we come off sweating buckets, hearts racing the whole way through. But as nerve wracking as it is, the opening night is always the most fun. There’s nothing like hearing a joke get a laugh for the first time. In the opening night of The Play That Goes Wrong, we were listening to the audience backstage, going, ‘oh, they’re laughing! God, we’re getting laughs! This is amazing!’ We had no idea if anyone would even like it.

Confidence starts on your wrist.

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PHOTOGRAPH by Aljaz Habjan



SHARP NOTES When Sam Way isn’t writing or playing music, he can be found modelling. It’s no surprise, then, that his style essentials and to-do list are pretty cool



Sam Way has quite the musical endorsement – he was discovered by Eric Hall, the legendary producer/agent who helped launch the career of the Sex Pistols. And yer man models as well (don’t you just hate him). He talks us through his style essentials…

ON MY WRIST Raymond Weil just released its latest artistinspired limited-edition timepiece. It’s a watch of real character and charm in black and gold, drawing influence from the Beatles’ lifetime making music. Let it be, indeed.

I’ve done much of my most creative, reflective writing on a plane; I guess long-distance flights challenge you like that. Next on the list is Japan.

IN MY SIGHTS I’ve been pining for a high-quality projector and audio set-up recently after getting rid of my TV two years ago. Movie night on a laptop just ain’t the same.

IN MY WARDROBE I’m living in American Vintage right now, and obsessed with the new stuff coming out from Maharishi. I have an oversized embroidered bomber jacket from them and I love it.

ON MY TRAVELS I always take a notepad, a good book and relish the time to be alone and decompress.

IN MY DREAMS I’d buy a big farmhouse and some land in the country, make an incredible music studio and invite some of my community to live and collaborate there as often as they liked. It would have to be close to the water, as we’d be wild swimming as often as we could. We’d be one big family, sharing stories, creating, and living a slower, more natural pace of life. Sounds like the direct opposite of my actual life: I live in a tiny flat on the music hustle in London… Come back to me in three years – maybe I’ll make it come true.


PHOTOGRAPH by Kirk Truman

I’m living in American Vintage right now, and obsessed with the new stuff from Maharishi

I actually hospitalised myself from shoving shelled peanuts up my own nose waiting for Mum to finish her visit to Grandma – oh gawd! ‘The past is a dream for us to learn from,’ said somebody once, and I kinda liked that and want to echo it here. Generally, I try not to think of what has been lost in life to the past, but sometimes I enjoy remembering it and writing it down as a way of reconnecting with it

ON MY AGENDA One month I want to just commit to playing live, busking, or playing shows and open mics every single night. It would be a really fun challenge that would take you all over London. Then on the food front… On a chef’s recommendation I really want to eat at The Ninth in Fitzrovia. Collaboratively in music, I’ve always wanted to write with as many people as possible, but if I had to choose a few... I’d love to jam with Nick Mulvey, support Fat Freddy’s Drop, feature on a song by the Prodigy – RIP Keith – and go back to school and get a guitar lesson from Alan Gogoll.

ON MY BUCKET LIST I actually wrote a whole song about this – have a watch on YouTube, it’s a young, enthused, kinda raw piece of work. It’s one of my earliest and way before my music developed and found a tendency towards melancholy. The first four things on the list were: ++ Record an album. ++ Get lost in the Amazon. ++ Eat at The Fat Duck. ++ Dance until the sun comes up. Looks like I’m a simple creature after all. ■ See more at


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UP THE REVOLUTION For Daniel W Fletcher, fashion design isn’t just about creating clothes – it’s a way of making a statement and influencing change. No wonder he’s already amassed quite a following, says GEORGE SERVENTI


T’S NOT UNCOMMON for fashion designers to use their platforms to commentate on sociopolitical affairs, but few do so as intrinsically as Daniel W Fletcher, who, after graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2015, went on to establish an eponymous London-based menswear brand with disruption at its core. “It’s all about starting a conversation and encouraging people to look at the world in different ways,” Fletcher tells square mile. “For as long as I can use my platform to make positive change then that’s what I’ll do.” For Fletcher, positive change is manifest in everything from the presentation-slash-protest he staged outside the LFW show space back in 2016 to the brand’s use of northern textile mills local to where he grew up. It’s a kind of integrity that is rare enough from the labels that can afford it – let alone a start-up on a shoe-string budget – and the reason Fletcher’s label has garnered a cultish following of young men disenfranchised by Brexit, climate change, and the establishment. “Though there’s a strong British heritage influence in my work, I always try to design in an elegant way people wouldn’t normally associate with tradition. It’s contemporary menswear with a sense of familiarity.” No surprise then how easy it is to find yourself distracted from the brand’s ethos by Fletcher’s trademark clean-lined sportswear and lean tailoring – something the designer says is integral to any well-dressed man’s wardrobe: “You have to be prepared to take risks and only dress for yourself, while always knowing what suits you. I make these denim jean/jacket combos and I literally wear one every day so it becomes a bit of a uniform.” ■ Shop Daniel W Fletcher on SSENSE and ModeSens.

CREATING CHANGE: [this image] Daniel W Fletcher is using his eponymous clothing label to encourage people to look at the world in different ways; [above] pieces from the AW19 collection adhere to the designers’ signature contemporary clean-lined look.

For as long as I can use my platform to make positive change then that’s what I’ll do






PHOTOGRAPH by Asia Werbel

As John Smedley marks 235 years in the business, RHYS THOMAS takes a look at the brand’s history and how it’s planning to celebrate the milestone

WO YEARS BEFORE the steamboat was invented, five years before the French Revolution, and a full 29 years before Pride and Prejudice was published, a cotton factory was founded in the Peak District by Florence Nightingale’s great-great Uncle Peter and one John Smedley. Heard of him? Of course you have. His eponymous brand of knitwear has an unrivalled legacy, due in part to the Derbyshire factory, which having operated continuously for 235 years, is the oldest manufacturing factory in the world. Situated near a small stream (crucially offering a constant water supply) the Lea Mills factory began by producing muslin and spinning cotton, which was then sent out to local cottages. Shortly after, underwear, vests and athletic trunks were being made in-house, which was how John Smedley continued until the late 1950s, when the focus shifted to the outerwear synonymous with the brand today. Since then, everyone from the royal families (obviously they have a royal warrant) in cosy gear to Mods overrunning roads on their Lambrettas have been seen snugly tucked inside some Smedley. After all, it’s a truth universally acknowledged that there is nothing more timelessly stylish than high quality, fine-gauge knitwear. The year 1784 was a long old time ago. It’s way before Nokia brick phones and that weird end-of-programme-test-card-girl with the clown and naughts and crosses, and even before ‘the box’ itself. Imagine how big a birthday celebration you’d have if you were 235? Well, same goes for John Smedley. Throughout the year there have been events and product releases dedicated to its quality craft, in association with the likes of The Queen Elizabeth Scholarship Trust and Rémy Martin. A stand-out part of the celebrations will be the 235 collection released this month as part of Wool Week 2019 (yup, it’s a thing). The collection will look to John Smedley’s history and the world’s finest noble fibres. Naturally, the collection will be entirely knitted and hand finished by the 50 skilled craftspeople at the Derbyshire factory. The collection has a specific focus on the traceability element of craft, with customers being able to follow the garment’s journey from herd to store. And the brand’s not finishing there. To finish off a year of celebration, another new collection entitled Legacy will launch in November, containing items inspired by the brand’s considerable archives. The collection will be modelled by the three living generations of the John Smedley dynasty. Now that’s what we call keeping it the family .■ See more at


Find out more at

View our collections at: 55 Jermyn Street, London, SW1Y 6LX | 24 New Cavendish Street, London, W1G 8TX | 24 Brook Street, London, W1K 5DG |



AMAZING LACE From countryside trails to inner-city tracks, CQP is making sneakers that are as versatile as they are stylish – not least its new Atlon

SMART CASUAL Swedish shoe brand CQP has always sought to make the holy grail of trainers: combining elegant and casual. The company was founded specifically to create sneakers for people who usually don’t like sneakers. It was the brain child of ex Goldman Sachs analyst Adam Lewenhaupt, who left the bank to follow his dream of creating a hybrid sneaker.


see more


CQP’s newest model – the Atlon – is inspired by hiking and trekking sneakers, but made for urban environments. Up top is a supple Italian suede upper; inside is a cognac leather calf lining; and underneath is a wellcushioned all-weather sole from Vibram. Pictured in fog grey, £340.





SHOPPING BAG The Royal Exchange, EC3V 3DG,

A selection of the world’s finest luxury brands sit side-by-side at The Royal Exchange, offering inspiring buys for discerning shoppers MAD FOR MONOCHROME Sometimes keeping it simple is the best way to make a statement, as illustrated by Halcyon Days’ crafty use of monochrome. By adhering to a black and white palette adorned only with touches of gold, the enamel specialist has been able to go bold with pattern, creating a collection that’s dramatic and playful but still undeniably grown up.

Tiffany & Co For the first time in its 182 years, Tiffany has launched a men’s range – Tiffany 1837 Makers – and the collection is worth the wait, as this handsome 18k gold pendant demonstrates. £3,450. 9-11 Royal Exchange, EC3V 3LQ

Jo Malone Jo Malone needs no intro, but the brand’s new Poppy and Barley scent deserves a bit of fanfare – it’s a soft floral concoction with just the right amount of colourful character. From £48. 24 Royal Exchange, EC3V 3LP

DARE TO BE DIFFERENT: The boldly patterned Parterre (£175) and Shells (£150) hinged bangles seen here can be stacked to stunning effect thanks to their matching colours and complementary designs. Halcyon Days, 27 Royal Exchange, EC3V 3LP


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Watchfinder & Co The Rolex Daytona 116500LN is one of the most sought-after watches ever made. Pick up this pristine example from watch specialist Watchfinder & Co for £25,750. 13-14 Royal Exchange, EC3V 3LQ




#WATCHWEWANT Doxa Watches might not be a household name, but its SUB dive watch collection holds cult status among collectors – and is now available to purchase in the UK

DOXA’S ORDERS There are tool watches and then there are tool watches – one look at the Doxa SUB 300, a purpose-built dive watch first created in 1967, and you’ll know which category this distinctive piece falls into. Unlike flashier divers like the Rolex Submariner and Omega Seamaster, Doxa’s answer to plunging into the deep is all about practicality: the sawtooth-ridged bezel engraved with no-decompression limits, a large minute hand in vibrant readable orange, and the tough C-shaped case capable of taking its share of knocks.

SILVER SURFER The slick silver-dialed model known as Searambler is our pick of the bunch – a little bit more demure than some of the vivid dial options on offer. In the early days, Doxa engineers tested the Sub 300 in the deep waters of Lake Neuchâtel. Such was its success that underwater explorer Jacques Cousteau wore a Doxa on several expeditions, along with SEALAB aquanauts. Suffice it to say, it’ll handle a rainy London with minimal fuss. £1,820. For more info,

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THE DIRECTOR’S CUT Timothy Everest is the go-to outfitters for some of the best-dressed actors around, but it’s also making a strong play for the everyman. RHYS THOMAS talks tailoring with general manager Lee Rekert


SUIT SHOULD BE many things.

Accommodating, refined and elegant. It should help you to feel better about yourself, and provide loyal years of service, across all manner of occasions. In many ways, Lee Rekert is the personification of these characteristics. Add to the mix his booming baritone voice and gregarious charm, and what you’re left with is the ideal candidate for a general manager of London tailor, Timothy Everest. Fresh from the set of the new Bond film, we caught up with the man who is taking the bespoke brand to the masses. How would you define the Timothy Everest signature style? We’re soon entering our 30th year as a bespoke tailor – and we remain a bespoke tailor first and foremost. But what we’ve tried to do over the last four years is open that up to a wider market. It’s something that in the past we couldn’t do – we didn’t have the funds nor the retail space to do so. Now we’re increasing our productivity: creating bespoke, made-to-measure and ready-to-wear so that we offer the full package.

FIENNES AND DANDY: [this image] Ralph Fiennes wears a Fox flannel chalk stripe double-breasted suit made by Timothy Everest; [top right] classic understated British style from the new Timothy Everest AW19 collection.

Tell us about the Redchurch Street store… The idea of the store was to highlight a bigger offering. Previously we had a bespoke house in Shoreditch, but it wasn’t able to offer room for expansion. Redchurch Street was an opportunity to have a bigger retail presence, more product categories, and to move the brand forward: we offer a made-to-measure collection from the new store, which is a real area of growth for us. There’s also an open cutting room in which we showcase the bespoke clothing. It’s an educational place in a sense – it lets people see the craft for what it is, without the fear of having to actually indulge in it.

Ralph Fiennes is extremely intelligent, very aware of what he wants, and a workaholic

How would you describe a typical client? Well, it depends on the store. Mayfair would cater for the business-orientated client in a two-piece suit with a shirt and tie, very elegant and sophisticated. Redchurch Street is a bit more eclectic: no tie, maybe a polo or a T-shirt, less traditional. East might be late twenties and up, Mayfair is usually forties upwards. Are you fashionable or stylish? I don’t think we consider fashion at all. The most important thing we do is make somebody feel better about themselves. We make them look slightly better than they did: whether that’s slimmer, or maybe they just stand more upright. So while there’s fashion trends, like colours and materials, we have our own identity which we follow. Where does Timothy Everest take its inspiration from when making garments? For the bespoke and made-to-measure ranges, we take it on a customer-by-customer basis – there’s no template. We try and work as closely to them as we can. We’re very honest, and if we don’t think something will work we tell them – there’s nothing worse than making a garment for the sake of making a garment. There’s a lot of trust in our hands, of course, because to look at a piece of fabric 5x3 inches and to picture how it will look at the end is not easy for everyone to do. How did you get into the industry? I left school at 16, not really knowing what to do with myself – so I did a one-year BTEC course in retail at Harrods, which was probably as close as you can get to the military without being there. I ended up working in men’s casual wear in the Ralph Lauren department. After five years I went to work for an agency who looked after a brand called Marlboro Classics. It was part of a bigger company based in Italy, so I spent time there, and then the ex-managing director of the agency called and asked if I’d be interested in coming to work for Timothy Everest. Why did you enrol in the Harrods course? I didn’t know what to do. The only things I was



really interested in were Elvis, swimming and fashion. Elvis was dead, and I wasn’t that good a swimmer, so clothing it was. What’s your favourite piece of clothing? For many years I was known as Mr Blue, because of how often I wore a navy two-piece suit. It still is what I typically wear, maybe I’ve changed shape/style and the fabrics have changed, but I still like a well-fitted, simple, classic, English-looking suit which kind of defines you but doesn’t make you. Understatement gives me a lot of confidence. It’s absolutely timeless. How many suits do you have? I try and make one new suit a year for myself, which isn’t a lot in this business but maybe shows how busy we are. And my weight is going up and down more, so it’s harder to keep on top of the perfect fit. The one being made at the moment is brown… how adventurous! One of your better-known clients is Ralph Fiennes. What’s it like working with him? Yeah he’s pretty big, isn’t he? We mainly work with him by making the costumes for his films, that’s where the relationship began and blossomed. Working with him is an enjoyable challenge. He’s extremely intelligent, very aware of what he wants, and a workaholic. He’s a very nice guy and is always learning. How involved is he with design? Very – from beginning to end, from the weight of the fabric to the colour. So are his suits strictly business, or are some for pleasure? A bit of both, mainly film at the moment: the new Kingsman and the new Bond film have taken the last 18 months. His out-of-office style is very clear too, he’s into indigo and denim – he likes a work-wear elegance. He has a clear identity of who he is, and lives a less-is-more ideology. He has no throw-away items. Who did you dress and how many different outfits did you make for Spectre? We dressed Ralph Fiennes for M; Christoph Waltz for Ernst Stavro Blofeld; and Dave Bautista for Mr Hinx. So it was about 30, across the three characters. How do you draw inspiration for the various Bond pieces? The creative aspects come from the costume team of the film, it’s their gig not ours; we’re a very elite supplier. We work with them on how to make the product they have in mind

a reality. You can’t watch a film without the costumes being perfect. What are you currently working on? We’ve just finished on Bond. We’re currently working on season four of The Crown, so that’s taking us up to Spring 2020. It’s a big one for us, we work with all of the lead male actors. We’re in the middle of making Prince Charles’s wardrobe, and there’s a large focus on him this season, so there’s a big wardrobe. Period pieces involve a lot more intricacy, so everything that we make takes a bit longer

to do. There are higher skill levels required. And deadlines are deadlines, and sometimes they move quicker than originally planned, but we’re there to deliver. Finally, why should people visit a tailor? Some people have to, because their body means they can’t buy anything ‘off the peg’. But ultimately, I think you should visit a tailor to explore your own identity, to have something made that is your own. It’ll fit better, which will make you more confident. ■ For more information, see


Available at and Selfridges, London



ROYAL TREATMENT When it comes to investing in shotguns, a regal connection can increase their value tenfold. In his new column, gun expert GAVIN GARDNER explains why Purdey is the go-to brand for the great and the good


AMES PURDEY & SONS is probably the world’s most famous gunmaker, and with good reason. Established in London in 1814, the firm has built guns and rifles of the highest quality ever since, and is relatively unique for having occupied a position right at the top of the trade for its entire history. As successor to Joseph Manton, Purdey immediately inherited the best clientele and more than 200 years later, retains them. Any Purdey gun that remains in good condition has the potential to be an investment, but some have more potential than others. PROVENANCE A great number of Purdey’s guns have been built for notable figures, indeed nobility and royalty have been at the core of Purdey’s client base for much of its history. A gun that was built for a notable figure from history will always have greater appeal, and often sell for many times what a similar example might otherwise achieve. A good example was a pair of 16-bore sidelock ejector guns [pictured], built by Purdey for Edward, Prince of Wales who achieved notoriety as Edward VIII when he abdicated from the throne to marry American divorcee Wallis Simpson. Sold in Geneva in 1992 these guns commanded in excess of £136,000. That was about ten times the value they would have otherwise had without that connection.

SPECIFICATION It is important to remember that most guns are bought to use, so stock and barrel lengths are very important. If a stock is too short and the gun does not fit the new owner, then no matter how rare it is, it will be of little use to him. A gun that was originally built for a lefthanded man of petit dimensions will be of little use to a right-handed giant. Guns with short stocks or unfashionable barrel lengths will always have limited potential.

CONDITION Originality is the key; every collector desires a gun to be in as close a condition to when it originally left Purdey’s workshops as possible.

The maker’s meticulous records document almost every detail of virtually all of the guns that it has produced, so it is easy to determine when a gun was built, who it was built for, and what its original specification was. Furthermore, the degree of original hardening colour and finish that the gun retains will have a considerable bearing, as most guns will have been used a great deal and it is only a very small percentage will retain significant degrees of original finish and specification. This rarity of condition contributes significantly to overall investment potential.

RARITY Purdey has produced more than 30,000 guns, so a Purdey in itself is not a rare thing. Almost half of these have been the side-by-side hammerless self-opening sidelock ejector gun introduced to universal acclaim in 1880 and still in production today.

But there are some notable rarities among Purdey production: only 649 sidelock ejector over-and-under guns have been built since 1948 which today are highly sought after, but rarest of all are the 27 over-and-under guns that Purdey built pre-war on a design adapted from Edwinson Green.

CALIBRE Small bores are always popular, because of their relative rarity; 12-bore guns will outnumber every other calibre produced more than tenfold, so when guns in the smaller calibres such a 20 or 28-bore are encountered, they will have significantly greater desirability and potential value. A gun that has a combination of some or all of the example characteristics above will have the greatest potential to prove itself as an investment over time. ■ To buy a Purdey at auction, see





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PHOTOGRAPH by Eric Ray Davidson/Netflix


SUPER BAD From drug dealing in Breaking Bad to murder in new true-crime show Truth Be Told, Aaron Paul often plays the consummate bad boy. But catching up with him ahead of the release of El Camino, BETH McCOLL finds him full of love



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His wife is Lauren Paul (née Parsekian), a brilliant anti-bullying campaigner and documentary maker. They got married in May 2013 and welcomed their first child, a daughter named Story, in February 2018. At one point he excuses himself to go and check on her, and I’m left alone to snoop. Unfortunately, of course, this is a video interview and all I can see through the webcam is a bit of sofa and some vivid blue LA sky framed by wide windows. The sofa looks comfortable, a big baby-friendly couch. It’s not at all the kind of rich-person sofa you might expect from the star of one of the most successful TV shows of all time. He could have phoned from a zero gravity chamber, strapped into a slowly spinning gold La-Z-Boy and I would have thought: “yeah, seems about right.” It’s been a busy year for our pal Aaron. He’s currently filming the next series of hit show Westworld where he’ll star as the mysterious Caleb, a construction worker with (you would assume) a great many secrets. He’ll also play a convicted killer in Serial-inspired true-crime

ALL PHOTOGRAPHS by Eric Ray Davidson / Netflix

THERE ARE NO Aaron Paul scandals. There are no solemn-faced public apologies or contrite retractions on his Twitter feed. His Wikipedia page is totally sans a ‘controversies’ sub-category. He’s just your mate off the telly. He’s someone you’re sure you can trust. You’d lend him a tenner in a heartbeat, stand him a pint, invite him to the afters without a second thought. He’s the guy from the thing. You know the guy – the guy who played the guy who wasn’t altogether worth rooting for but who you rooted for anyway. He calls me on a Wednesday evening – midday for him in Los Angeles. He uses his wife’s Skype account. “I don’t have a laptop” he tells me when I ask about this. He does use social media, though more sparingly these days. “I try to live a private life a little bit. But it’s hard for me not to gush about my wife and just how proud I am of her and how much I love her. I think I used to do it a lot more back in the day, but once our family started growing I pulled back. I realised, wow, I really just kind of want to keep this to myself.”

show Truth Be Told (also starring Octavia Spencer). Oh, and he’s also starring in the Breaking Bad movie, El Camino. (Breaking Bad? You know, the once biggest show in the world that defined and catalysed the golden age of television as we know it.) The film will see Aaron reprise his role as Jesse Pinkman, the drug-taking, meth-making, bitch-exclaiming fan favourite. Last time we saw Jesse was (spoiler alert, bitch) in the concluding moments of Breaking Bad’s finale way back in 2013. Tortured, kept prisoner and forced to cook meth, a newly free Jesse climbs into one of his dead captor’s cars – an iconic Chevrolet El Camino – and drives away from the compound where he’s been held captive. Walter White, his chemistry teacher turned business-partner turned emotional tormenter turned eventual emancipator, lays dying somewhere behind him. I ask Aaron what Jesse feels in that moment. “He’s been beaten and tortured for the past six months, lived in a hole. He’s in a place of relief, desperately trying to run away from an incredible darkness. It’s pain – and a huge weight lifting off. But he’s still a little scared, you know? He’s not in the clear yet at all. He’s very much in hiding and on the run.” He won’t confirm where the film’s action picks up, but two newly released trailers suggest it won’t be long after this escape. One trailer is barely a minute long, and shows Jesse sitting alone in the El Camino, smoking a cigarette and weeping. From the crackling car radio we hear reports of the massacre at the compound: “Investigators are searching for a person of interest who fled the scene.” The other trailer is slightly longer, but not by much. It shows Jesse washing months of grime from his scarred and broken body, unwilling to let his gun out of sight even in the shower. Each clip has been thoroughly dissected on the Breaking Bad subreddit, where new threads are created hourly. Fans discuss the positioning of the scars on Jesse’s cheek, his outfits, his haircut. They post memes, speculate about which characters will return, and carefully schedule their series re-watches to coincide with the Netflix release. Viewing parties are being planned, recipes for homemade Franch dip and blue-meth popcorn traded. All of this for a film about a character who was supposed to be killed off in series one. Aaron tells me, “When I read the script of Breaking Bad, I just knew this was my opportunity to really spread my wings and try to take it to the next level. I made sure that I fought a good fight.” And it’s a fight he’s familiar with. Aaron moved to LA from his native Idaho when he was just 17. “I started saving up change when I was ten years old to move to Hollywood. ➤

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GET THE LOOK: Jacket: Brooklyn Tailors Shirt: Paul Smith Jeans: Levi’s Tie: Saint Laurent Watch: Cartier




➤ I had a jar of pennies and nickels and dimes next to my bed and I told my parents I was moving to California when I graduated.” How did they feel about that? “They were so sweet and supportive like, ‘OK honey. We believe in you. You can do this’. “And then I ended up graduating a year early and just kind of ran off.” The period before landing the role of Jesse was testing: “I had lots of ups, lots of downs. I was living a great life, living off commercials for some time, and doing quite well, but then the guest-stars and re-occurings slowed down a little bit and there was this looming writers’ strike right around the corner, and there was this kind of steady panic building. I didn’t know when my next paycheck was gonna come.” His roles in bizarre noughties commercials are often trotted out on talk shows or embedded in viral tweets. In one – oddly sexual – advert for Juicy Fruits, Aaron uses some kind of telekinesis to obtain a packet of chewing gum from a doctor’s pocket, stripping the man of his shirt in the process. In another, he squirms beneath a towering quiff as his parents withhold his beloved Kellog’s Corn Pops cereal. In the wake of Aaron’s great success, these make hilarious viewing, but for an actor of his considerable talent you do wonder if they ever felt unsatisfying or demeaning. (I planned to ask him about this, but spilled hot herbal tea in my lap and lost my train of thought. Still, you do wonder.) Across five seasons, Breaking Bad won 16 Primetime Emmy’s, three Screen Actors Guild Awards, two Golden Globes, and an avalanche of other prestigious awards. The finale is widely considered as one of the most perfect endings in TV history. So why come back? Why press play after all this time? Did he have unfinished business with Jesse? “A little bit. At the end of the show when I read that – him busting through the gates in this El Camino and screaming and crying and laughing – it felt like kind of a nice goodbye. But so many people kept asking ‘what happened to Jesse? Where’s Jesse?’. It was the one question left unanswered. And they did the same thing to Vince and so it was just an itch that Vince needed to scratch.” Vince is, of course, Vince Gilligan, the creator, head writer, executive producer and director of Breaking Bad. Aaron’s love and respect for this man is well-documented (he regularly calls him a genius and promises to follow him into fires if necessary.) Still, was there ever even a moment where he considered turning down the project and letting sleeping drug-dealers lie? “Zero. None. Because that would mean that I didn’t 100% trust Vince,

which is not the case. I would do anything that he asked me to do, that’s how much I trust him. I wouldn’t even need to really read the project; I’d just know that he wouldn’t do something for no reason. “There’s got to be a purpose behind it, there’s got to be a drive behind it. I felt that Breaking Bad was for the most part pretty perfect, you know? And they really nailed the ending. So why continue this story? And Vince’s reasoning was ‘There’s more story to tell’. And so here we are.” Here we are indeed, just a couple of weeks away from the film’s hotly anticipated release. I ask if he’ll be watching along with viewers when it drops. “I’ll actually be travelling that day. I’m either going to London first and then Spain or Spain first and then London to start the big worldwide press tour.” (So if you’re

So many people kept asking ‘what happened to Jesse? Where’s Jesse?’ It was just an itch that Vince needed to scratch in London or Spain or Spain or London on 11 October, keep an eye out.) Despite the show’s cult following and the magnitude of the project, details have been kept impressively under wraps. Me: Nobody really knew this film was happening. In the age of social media and everything getting leaked – how did you manage that? A: I have no idea. Especially since we were shooting in Albuquerque for the most part. It’s pretty crazy that they kept it under wraps. Me: And all you had to do was just keep quiet about it? A: Yeah. People would ask me what I was doing and I’d say ‘I’m just doing this little passion project’ and they’d say, ‘are you sure you’re not doing Better Call Saul?’ and I would say ‘no’ and no-one would second guess it. They trusted me. Me: Which was a mistake, obviously, because you were lying to their faces. A: [Laughing] I lied to all of their faces. It was actually kind of fun.

Is he worried that the movie will bring about a revival of fans shouting the word ‘bitch’ at him in public? “Oh that’s never stopped,” he says, deadpan. “I was worried at one point that ‘bitch’ might be my daughter’s first word, because it was so relentless. It’s not as bad as it used to be, and I don’t think it’s going to be as bad as it used to be ever, because I don’t really use the word bitch a lot in this film.” I ponder if the bitch-era is truly finished. He laughs. “Yeah he’s in a much heavier place at the moment.” But is it tonally similar to the show? Are we going to laugh, Aaron Paul? Are we going to have a nice time? “It’s Vince Gilligan. He wrote it, he directed it, it’s coming out of his mind. It’s going to be so many familiar faces in terms of crew, a lot of the same people that worked on the pilot, and then throughout the series, and then throughout the making of Better Call Saul, so yeah I think that it has similar tones to Breaking Bad. Maybe on a grander scale.” I ask if it was difficult to access Jesse after six years away from the role. “It really wasn’t, and truthfully, not to discredit the rehearsal process, but with this film, the moment I read it in Vince’s office, I just knew the beats, I knew how I was going to play these moments. With particular scenes I like to be surprised in the moment, so I just showed up on the day and just kind of went for it. I got to revisit an old friend with Pinkman. I grew to know and love Jesse so much, more than anyone on the planet. More than Vince, more than the rest of the writers. I knew this guy better than anybody.” Me: OK, but would you let Jesse babysit? A: Maybe. He took care of a young boy in the episode ‘Peekaboo’ and I think he did a good job with it. But also – he’s a murderer. Me: Yeah. He is a bit of a murderer A: [nodding solemnly] So maybe not him.

THE FILM WILL be the first time we see Jesse in a post-Walt world, unless the latter rises from drug kingpin hell to continue being a troublemaking slag. In reality, Aaron & Bryan are closer than ever. They recently launched their own Mescal brand, Dos Hombres, and Bryan also attended Aaron’s blow-out 40th birthday trip to the Dominican Republic. There’s a beautiful shot on Aaron’s Instagram of the two of them sitting in front of the sunset, sipping Dos Hombres in matching all-white outfits. I ask Aaron what he’s learned from Bryan: “That it’s OK to not be professional 100% of the time. It’s OK to be immature, and break up the tension. Bryan is the most professionalslash-immature person I’ve ever met.” What does he think Bryan learned from him? ➤



➤ “God… you’d have to ask him, man. I have no idea. He’s learned how to make some pretty fierce cocktails from me, I guess.” If he lights up when I ask about Bryan, he goes full-wattage when talk we about Lauren and Story. I ask how he’s finding fatherhood. “It’s the best thing in the world. I mean, I loved my life before but truly my life began when I became a father. And watching my wife become a mother is just [he pauses] it’s impossible to explain. It’s impossible to explain the true gift that being a parent is.” He and his wife are both successful, accomplished in their own fields. How do they support each other’s work? “We try to raise each other up as often as possible. I’m just so proud of her. I fell in love with her pretty instantly. Especially after I found out what she’s dedicated her life to doing. “She does two tours a year with Kind Campaign – a Spring and a Fall tour – where she travels and talks to young girls about the effects of bullying. Each tour lasts about a month, and I try to go with her during that if I can. Otherwise she’s travelling with me. Her and baby girl are with me wherever I’m shooting at the moment.” This is the kind of unfiltered earnestness that has earned him major kudos online, where his Instagram account functions as a kind love letter to his family and his friends and his work and the world. Indeed, he uses the word love 34 times in our 45-minute conversation. This guy loves. “I’m never shy of letting someone know how much I care. I think people need to do that as often as possible. Just let people know how much you love and appreciate them.” Away from Breaking Bad, I touch on his role as Todd Chavez in Netflix’s cartoon series Bojack Horseman. Aaron describes Todd as

BAD TO THE BONE: Aaron Paul is reprising his most iconic role as Jesse Pinkman in the new El Camino film – picking up where Breaking Bad’s final season left off.

I’m never shy of letting someone know I care. I think people need to do that as often as possible “this sort of delinquent slacker who’s actually so incredibly smart. He does have these idiotic ideas at times, but he truly has a brilliant mind.” He’s a yellow-hatted, rock opera-writing bum with a heart of gold. He’s also asexual. In season three, Todd grapples with identity (“I’m not gay. I mean, I don’t think I am. But I don’t think I’m straight, either. I don’t know what I am. I think I might be nothing.”) In season four, he begins to identify as asexual, meeting people in the ace community and navigating relationships. Todd’s asexuality isn’t the punchline, nor is it a shortcut to stereotype, and Aaron’s damn proud of this. “That was such a beautiful and caring approach,” he tells me. “I’ve had a personal friend reach out to me and tell me ‘My god, I didn’t know what I was until Bojack. I had no idea that was even a possibility – to just be.’ I’ve had numerous strangers either write me letters or come up to me on the street and say ‘I found my identity through Todd Chavez’.” Bojack Horseman is a show about fame and power, and one which acts as a cultural canary in the coal mine (it’s also brilliantly funny. In season five, Aaron also voices Henry Fondle, a sex robot with a blender for a head and a great many alarming rubber attachments. Watch it!). We talk about the changes he’s seen in Hollywood: “I love seeing females more in

power positions on set. Especially in the last couple of years I’ve worked with so many incredible female directors. It used to be incredibly rare that I would have a director who happened to be female. They were around and they are around, obviously, because here they are, all of a sudden, out of nowhere, just doing such beautiful work. This industry is under a spotlight, so they’re really pushing the needle forward and it’s so nice to see.” I ask him how much time we have left. Not long. If he was in a production office or in the back of an Uber I’d push for more time, an extra ten or 20 minutes. He’s nice enough that he’d probably agree. But he’s at home and his daughter’s in the other room and shit, no, I can’t do it. I fire off a few final questions.

El Camino is out on 11 October on Netflix.


PHOTOGRAPH by Ben Rothstein/Netflix

Me: What are you listening to at the mo? A: I always have on some sort of Radiohead album. I love Arcade Fire, Jack Garrett. I’m always listening to War on Drugs radio on Pandora, it’s just such a nice, calming, fun vibe. Me: What does a restful day look like to you? A: Just laying in my baby girl’s nursery and just playing with her dolls and her bunnies. Me: Is… is she there as well? A: Oh no, no, this is my time. [Laughs] No she’s definitely there. Just laying around with my ladies and really just doing nothing. Taking walks and going to the park. Me: Do you watch any British TV shows? A: I loved the show The Street. Me: I don’t think I’ve seen that. A: Oh you should watch it. It’s a brilliant, brilliant, brilliant show. Also obviously the original Office. Me: You’re a fan? A: Oh, I’m obsessed with Ricky Gervais. He’s just so brilliant and just relentless. Me: Could we see you working together? A: Oh my God, please. If you could maybe send him a note that would be great. Me: I’ll see what I can do. Can you imagine ever retiring? A: No. Even at the hardest times in my career I’ve loved the process, I’ve loved storytelling, I’ve loved make-believe. I just never let go of that. I can’t let go. Me: Have you ever said no to a project and then regretted it? A: I definitely have, but it’s good to not keep looking back, to just move on. My wife taught me that. She was able to get that thorn out of my side post Breaking Bad. Everything happens for a reason. I’m in a very healthy and happy place in my life. I have a wonderfully kind and beautiful wife and baby girl. I really can’t ask for anything more. ■



Bull Market Principal of Aston Martin Red Bull Racing, Christian Horner was hooked on the fast lane from an early age. But life away from the track takes a slower pace, finds JEREMY TAYLOR Photography by CIARAN McCRICKARD


JOY RIDE: Horner at home in the Cotswolds with his classic Aston Martin DB5 which he bought as a 40th birthday present to himself.

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E LIVES A high-octane life in the fast

lane but Christian Horner claims he is happiest away from the ‘madness’ of Formula 1. Married to pop star Geri Halliwell and tipped as the next supremo of the world’s most glamorous sport, the team principal of Aston Martin Red Bull Racing likes to escape the pit lane on his sprawling Cotswolds farm. Walking around the stunning estate near Banbury, it’s easy to understand why. Horner is currently putting the finishing touches to renovation works on his cavernous garage and indoor swimming pool. Builders are fluttering around the restored outbuildings and there’s a menagerie of animals to care for, too. Among them is a West Highland terrier called Bernie, in honour of Horner’s mentor and former CEO of F1, Bernie Ecclestone.


“We have four dogs, miniature donkeys, goats, Geri’s horses and a couple of canaries called Donald and Hillary. The latter formed an unlikely friendship and mated!” Nearby, Horner’s two-year-old son Monty is hurtling around on a toy tractor, while Halliwell’s 13-year-old daughter, Bluebell Madonna, helps to groom Geri’s horse, Beauty. Horner says he has tried horse riding but remains far more interested in horsepower. “I have two Minis, one belonged to Paul McCartney and the other to Ringo Starr. Geri bought me a Willys jeep as a birthday present and my everyday drive is an Aston Martin DBS, which I love. I also have a classic DB5, which I bought as a present to myself when I turned 40.” There are other ‘secret’ cars which are kept

I have two Minis, one belonged to Ringo Starr and the other belonged to Paul McCartney firmly under wraps but I can certainly make out the distinctive shape of a Ferrari. At the far end of the building is a red MGB roadster, which dates back to 1965. “It’s a convertible Geri bought with her first pay cheque from the Spice Girls. I had to track it down and buy the car back. It’s exactly as it was when she sold it – with a Spice Girls tape in the cassette deck and matching keyring.” However, pride of place goes to a vintage Massey Ferguson tractor, which Horner had restored. “I think that has rubbed off on my son. Monty is obsessed with his toy digger – you have to watch your ankles around here.” Horner has always been fascinated with cars. Growing up, his father and grandfather ran a successful car component company together in the West Midlands. “There were always lots of interesting motors around. Dad owned a Reliant Scimitar GTE, a Triumph Stag and lots of Jags. Mum drove an Alpine. At one point she had a Triumph Herald, too. We always encouraged her to get airborne over a humped-back bridge on the school run.” When he was 12, Horner plagued his parents to buy him a go-kart. “We found one in a local paper for £60 but it had slick tyres and no grip on grass. Dad took me to an old airfield track to have a go – it was the first time that I realised go-karts could be raced. From that moment onwards I was totally hooked – I wanted to be a racing driver.” Horner began his career racing karts and then went into Formula Renault, Formula Three and Formula Two. “I did well but there came a point at 25 when I realised I didn’t have enough to make it to the very top. That’s when I decided to focus on running my own team, Arden, and let someone else do the driving.” The Horner home is full of memorabilia. A snooker room in one of the outbuildings is plastered with pop posters from Geri’s career and motorsport trophies. In the loo is a Time Out cover of the Spice Girls, plus a framed copy of ‘Your Song’ by Elton John, played at the couple’s wedding in 2015. Horner looks relaxed in white shirt and jeans, wearing a Tag Heuer Carrera Calibre 16, one of the many in his collection. “I don’t mind

DRIVING SUCCESS: Horner has been touted as the ‘next Bernie Ecclestone’, but for now he’s firmly focussed on managing team Red Bull.

being in the limelight on a Grand Prix weekend but not the rest of the time. We’ve lived here for about four years and it’s become the perfect home to relax and get away from it all.” When Horner joined fledgling Red Bull in 2005 at the age of 31, he was the youngest boss in the pit lane. “It was a big moment in my life but also felt like a natural progression. All the principles that served me well building my Formula 3000 team I applied to Formula 1. “At the end of the day, people are your biggest asset – the right technicians, engineers and drivers. I was a big Adrian Newey fan (chief technical officer at Red Bull) and when he left McLaren to join us, people stood up and took notice. If you are going to shoot for the stars, you need somebody like Adrian. Persuading him to sign with us was a major step forward.” The Red Bull team finished strongly in 2009 and then won the Constructors’ and Drivers’ Championships in 2010 with Sebastien Vettel and Mark Webber. The team went on to win the coveted constructors’ championship four years in a row. “When we won that first championship I bought an Aston Martin Vantage. It was the first real present I had afforded myself. The V12 is a fantastic car to drive, loads of power and it also sounds amazing.” Since 2013, Red Bull has struggled to keep

up with the pace of all-conquering Mercedes and the dominance of Lewis Hamilton. At the end of last season, they also lost driver Daniel Ricciardo to Renault. “It was very, very difficult losing Daniel. If I take my Red Bull hat off, he is a friend. He was the perfect fit for Red Bull and I didn’t understand his decision to make the move to Renault. He grew up with Red Bull and had no idea what life would be like outside that world. “I think he was quite surprised when Mercedes and Ferrari didn’t come calling, then Renault made him a significant offer. His decision demonstrated how keen he was to try something else and take a risk. It will be interesting to see what he thinks of that decision at the end of the season.” Horner is, perhaps, naturally guarded about his thoughts on Hamilton. “Lewis is an enigma. A wonderful, gifted driver. He’s a total natural and his achievements in the sport are phenomenal. He’s very much a Marmite character – people love him, or loathe him. I have huge respect for what he has done, the talent he has and his achievements.” Still only 45 and with four world championships to his name, Horner has long been touted as the next Bernie Ecclestone, taking the helm of Formula One when he eventually steps back from team management.

“It’s very flattering when people make that connection. At the moment, I very much enjoy the competitive side of my career. I’m really focussed on wanting to achieve more with Red Bull and getting us back to a winning situation. Nobody has a crystal ball, ten years down the road I might feel differently.” Horner is absolutely certain about who was the best driver ever. “The one that has stood out for me is Ayrton Senna. I did meet him, when I was a young kart racer. I snuck under the fence at Silverstone on a test day and hung about at the back of his garage. “He spotted my karting jacket and came over for a chat. He was so enthused about karting, very polite and interested in what I was doing. There was an aura around him – a special moment I shall always remember.” There are no electric or hybrid cars in Horner’s garage and he doesn’t believe Formula E will ever challenge F1 for popularity. “FE has its place but I don’t think it will compete because F1 is escapism in many respects. It is modern-day chariot racing. “FE will end up with autonomous cars and no need for a driver, if it follows through to a natural conclusion. F1 is madness but it is the purest entertainment in the world, man and machine at the absolute limit.” ■ For more info, see



The Fastest Man on Two Wheels Nobody rides a motorbike quite like Marc Márquez. The reigning MotoGP champion speaks to RHYS THOMAS  about the season so far, life outside of racing, and surviving his many, many crashes Photography by DIEGO SPERANI


NTERING THE ROOM, Marc Márquez looks

like he was born to ride: small and lean with big hands. He doesn’t look like a seasoned winner, however. He is too young and too polite. There’s none of the swagger you might expect from someone who has won five MotoGP world championships. And, in a parallel with a certain Lewis Hamilton, it looks like he’s on for his sixth. Only when he rolls his sleeves up, revealing scarring that makes his forearm look more like leather than skin, do you realise that this guy has put in some work.


How do you prepare for a race weekend? You try to restart the mentality for each race, like it is the first. You try to work a little bit at home watching videos, and then you will have meetings with the team to discuss and train for the weekend. Of course, in Britain the main question is: what will the weather forecast be like – it’s pretty hard to know. How is your shoulder? Yeah… it’s OK. In the first few races there was still some pain there. I was injured for two months, and had quite a big operation. ➤

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Of course, you don’t want to crash, nobody likes to crash – but it is part of the job ➤ But it was the right time to get back on the bike. Last season I was tiring a lot with my shoulder towards the end but I still managed to do quite well [he won the championship with a big margin]. But yes, I feel fine now. There was a season where you had 24 crashes? Is that too many? Yeah it was two years ago, last year was 23 which isn’t far away either. If I needed to crash 25 times to win the title – I’d do it How come you keep going? How come you’re not scared? It’s part of my job… it’s just part of who I am, I try and push things to their limits. Sometimes the bike isn’t ready, but even if that’s the case I try, and that’s usually why I crash. But this year we have everything a little more under control. Of course, you don’t want to crash, nobody likes to crash. But it is part of the job. But you’d rather go all or nothing? Three or four years ago I was still very much on that mentality. I’d either win or I’d crash out. Like in 2015, I lost the championship due to this mentality: I won six races but finished very low in six more. In the end, trying to win the title is our main goal, so consistency is the most important aspect. Now, I do still try to push limits, but not every single lap of the race like I used to… just on a few laps each time.

in 2011, when I was in Moto2. We were racing in Malaysia, and my injury gave me double vision. I wasn’t sure I’d ever be able to race again. That was the hardest moment. You still live in Cervera, a good hour from Barcelona. Will you ever leave? At the moment, no. I have my own house there and I like it. You never know, though, sometimes life throws things up and you have to go. I feel great being in Cervera. And how does it feel having part of the local museum dedicated to you? [Laughs.] This is something I don’t like. I don’t consider it a real museum, it’s more like a garage that you can visit. Cervera is a small town, and the people who live there push a lot, saying “we need to have a museum!” So I told them I’d give them my bikes and they can do whatever they need. But I don’t want to know anything about it, and I don’t want to receive anything from it. It’s just for the city. You’ve said before it’s hard to walk around Spain and Italy without being bombarded. Has this started happening further afield? Yeah. Spain and Italy are still the worst for it though. In London I can walk around the middle of the city and it might be up

to ten photos, which is fine. In Barcelona motorcycling is maybe the second sport behind soccer, so it’s difficult to have a normal life. I’m grateful though, in the end it’s a good thing to be recognised, it’s a good motivator. How well do you and your brother Alex get along? Are you the Serena and Venus Williams of motorcycle racing? No! He’s my brother but he’s also my best friend: we live together, and work together at home. On the circuit, however, we’re professionals and I’m always looking to improve my career and so is he. He’s showing real potential in Moto2, and looks like he deserves a chance at MotoGP. If someday he gets that, then he’ll just be another competitor, especially if he’s on a different team. We’ll be keeping our secrets. But at home we train together and help each other improve. How did you get involved with Pull&Bear? They’re a Spanish brand, so we’re working together to give the fans some collections: MM93, my initials and birth year/bike number. It’s difficult, because I’ve always been a rider, not a designer. They also try to use me like a model, but I am no model, I’m a rider! But it’s good to be able to grow myself personally, in lifestyle as well as on the racetrack. ■

ON THE RIGHT TRACK: [this image] Márquez rides in the British MotoGP earlier this year; [left] the 26-year-old Spaniard claims he is “no model”, but we’d say this photoshoot tells a different story.

PHOTOGRAPH by Dan Istitene/Getty Images

Is that your biggest learning curve? Yeah, I mean I might only be 26 but I’ve been in MotoGP six years. The spirit is still there, to the same level as in 2015, maybe more. However with my experience I’ve learned how to push my limits as opposed to just going faster. I have made mistakes and have learned from them, and I listen to the team around me. Of course, the human is the only animal that will make the same mistakes two or three times… but I’m continuing to learn. Which race have you disliked the most? I have many, all the races you fall in are the worst. The example that comes to mind is back




PHOTOGRAPH by Edwin Verin / Alamy Stock Photo

TRAIL BLAZER: The epic trail viewed below Dead Horse Point. Parts of the Shafer Canyon Trail were built as an access road for the potash mine that you will pass before starting the true Canyon drive. It’s advisable to take nerves of steel and a suitable 4x4 vehicle for this particular trail. After eight miles you enter the section of Canyonlands National Park known as Islands in the Sky. The famous scene in the film Thelma and Louise, when they drive their car off the edge and into the canyon, was filmed at this point.

HIT THE ROAD Author of Remarkable Road Trips COLIN SLATER takes us on a tour of six epic journeys which twist and turn through some of the most impressive scenery on the planet. Buckle up…

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OAD TRIPS HAVE several advantages over other forms of travel. You see far more of the land through which you drive, instead of flying above it. You are in control of your route and can stop at will, instead of being confined to the halts along a railway line. And you can go a lot further than you can by bike or on foot. Above all, these routes are for the intrepid – they are about the journey, not the destination. Enjoy the drive. MOAB TRAILS: DEAD HORSE POINT SCENIC DRIVE UTAH, USA The view from Dead Horse Point is arguably the most spectacular vista in a land of spectacular vistas; it is claimed to be one of the most photographed viewpoints in the world, and for good reason. It is truly jaw-dropping. Head north on US-191 from Moab before turning left on SR-313. This is not a long drive, at just 33 miles, so do take plenty of time to pull off the road to take a look at displays with excellent explanations of the geology, archaeology and scenery of these impressive sandstone canyons and sagebrush-covered hills. You can catch views of the appropriately named Seven-mile Canyon, the Needles, and Maze. After about 14 miles turn left at the fork towards Dead Horse Point.

Dead Horse Point is a peninsula of rock perched on top of vertiginous sandstone cliffs with a narrow 25m (82ft) neck of rock connecting it to the rest of the mesa. The name apparently comes from the cowboy practice of herding wild mustangs onto the point and stacking brushwood across the ‘neck’ to stop the horses escaping. Tragically, the cowboys sometimes left without releasing the horses, leaving them all to die of thirst with the sparkling Colorado River in plain sight. When you see the river snaking its way through the canyons over 600 heart-stopping metres (2,000ft) below, you can imagine the hardships of those ranch hands working these harsh lands. The Point is surrounded by the 5,362-acre Dead Horse Point State Park. It’s an immense vastness of ragged red-rock canyons and towering mesas with the snow-capped La Sal and Abajo mountains in the far distance. The nearer view is dominated by Monument Basin and a tall spire called the Totem Pole rising 93 metres (305ft). At this point you are 1,830 metres (6,000ft) above sea level and you may get the urge to grab hold of something for balance. Steady your nerves, take one more look at the aweinspiring view and then grab a coffee at the Pony Espresso coffee shop while you spare a thought for those poor horses.


Monument Valley is a place to visit for quiet contemplation on what nature can create


An ancient valley of towering red-rock pinnacles, isolated buttes, colossal mesas and wide open spaces, Monument Valley is one of the USA’s most iconic landscapes, and has changed very little in 3,000 years. For a truly breathtaking drive, take a sunrise tour and watch the dawn light breathe life into this spectacular landscape. Monument Valley is a place to visit for quiet contemplation on what nature can create with nothing but wind, water, sand and time. Visit at any time of year, but light snow during the winter months will produce an unforgettable landscape of intense contrasts and beautiful imagery. The main drive through this Jurassic landscape is a 17-mile circular one passing many of the most popular sites in Monument Valley. This is on dirt roads, but a 4x4 is not a necessity; the road is just bumpy and dusty. If you are nervous of taking your hire car on dirt roads, hire a Navajo guide who will take you round in their own vehicle. And while the main loop is the only one you can self-drive, it is worth paying for a tour to take you to some of the less popular but equally spectacular parts of the valley, and give you the opportunity to see petroglyphs and Anasazi sites. Since

EAT MY DUST: [this picture] The classic western sandstone of Monument Valley; [left] Jebel Hafeet Mountain on the outskirts of Al Ain – like a rich man’s Scalextric track, Jebel Hafeet uses every curve in the box.

the valley forms part of the Navajo Nation Reservation, a Navajo guide will also be able to provide insights on the landscape and wildlife that you could never hope to achieve on your own, as well as a window into the culture of the people that still call this landscape home. Monument Valley can be a busy place to visit, especially during the peak holiday times. So, if you are in search of real solitude and are looking to spend it in a setting almost as spectacular, it is worth travelling on a few miles to the northeast along US-163, to find the Valley of the Gods. This is Monument Valley’s little-explored sister and, if you stay into the

evening on a moonless night, you will think the heavens are exploding with the number of stars.

JEBEL HAFEET UNITED ARAB EMIRATES PHOTOGRAPHS by (Monument Valley) Frank Bach/ Alamy; (jebel Hafeet) Panther Media GmbH / Alamy

The road to Jebel Hafeet snakes back and forth across a rugged mountainside just because it can. It has been designed and constructed entirely for the pleasure of driving, and at speed. The family of the Emir of Abu Dhabi has its roots in the city of Al Ain, and although his principal residence is in Abu Dhabi itself, the Emir likes to also maintain a modest second palace in his ancestral home, or more precisely near the summit of Jebel Hafeet, the

mountain that sits above Al Ain. The fun starts on the outskirts of the city at Green Mubazzarah family park, one of the oases after which the city (whose name means ‘the spring’) is named. In this arid land it really is green, a large grassy landscape full of attractions including an incongruous railtrack bobsleigh and a number of hot springs. From there, the approach to the palace and nearby hotel could have taken a relatively direct route through the rock and the sand. From the intersection at Green Mubazzarah to the car park at the top it is only 6km as the crow flies. But instead, as built by the German

engineering firm Strabag International to the Emir’s specifications, the Jebel Hafeet highway takes nearly twice as long to eventually reach its destination. There are 60 bends, 11 of them turning through at least 180 degrees. They are perfectly engineered for camber and stability and the immaculate surface is designed to withstand the warping heat of the desert air. With an average gradient of eight degrees, there are three lanes – two going up so that your driving pleasure won’t be interrupted by getting stuck behind a slow-moving vehicle. The entire route is covered by street ➤




AHEAD OF THE CURVE: The long and winding road that leads to the Stelvio Pass. Alfa Romeo has even named its speedy SUV after it.

➤ lighting, and driving it at night when all around is dark emphasizes the joy of driving purely for its own sake. The mountain sits on the border between Abu Dhabi and Oman and during the day the views from the top are absolutely spectacular. As you drive, be sure to set your dash cam to record.

STELVIO PASS, ITALY The Stelvio Pass is a route for superlatives. Thanks to a ‘fairground-ride’ sequence of hairpin bends it achieves an absolutely astonishing vertical climb. Despite that, or perhaps because of it, it’s as popular with cyclists as it is with motorists. On one day every year in late August or early September, the Italian authorities close the Stelvio Pass to everyone except cyclists. Every year around 12,000 cyclists accept the gift of a clear road and put their leg muscles through this most gruelling of courses; and every year thousands of motorists wonder why the cyclists don’t just drive over it and save themselves the pain. The answer is, of course, as Everest mountaineer George Mallory explained, because it’s there. It’s been there since it was completed in 1825. It was a vital link in the transport network of the Austrian Empire of the time, connecting the province of Tyrol with Lombardy (which Austria had reclaimed following the fall of Napoleon). In due course Lombardy seceded from Austria to join the newly formed country of Italy, and for a period of time the Stelvio Pass marked the border between Italy and Austria. When the Austrian Empire was dismantled at the end of the First World War, Tyrol was divided in two: North Tyrol remained in Austria but South Tyrol was reassigned to Italy. This is why on the Tyrolean side of the pass most still speak a form of German and why many places have two names. For example the pass is known as both Passo dello Stelvio (Italian) and Stilfserjoch (Tyrolean).


PHOTOGRAPH by Markus Thomenius / Alamy

According to Norse mythology, some species of trolls roam the countryside at night but turn into mountains as the sun rises. Perhaps it’s best to stick to daylight hours when driving Norway’s worryingly narrow Trolls’ Path. The Trolls’ Path or Trollstigen, is a dramatic section of Norwegian County Road 63. Located in the north-west of the country, Road 63 snakes from Åndalsnes on Romsdalsfjorden south to Valldallen on the Storfjorden. From there, motorists can choose to take the ferry from Linge Pier across the fjord to Eidsdal and then continue to the head of the

Geirangerfjord; a location on Unesco’s World Heritage List since 2005. The Trollstigen section, also known as the Trolls’ Ladder, was built over the traces of a centuries-old pack road mountain pass which linked the then villages of Åndalsnes and Valldall. The new road was opened by King Haakon VII in July 1936. In 2012, the road was improved and designated a national tourist route. It is very much a seasonal attraction: snow and ice ensure that the road, with a 9% incline and potential rock falls, is usually closed from October to May. The long winter season meant that the road took eight years to construct. Each of the 11 hairpin bends was either hand-carved from the rock or built by stone laid on top of the base rock. Most of the bends are named after the foremen that supervised their construction. There are several viewpoints along the Trollstigen route. For many, the road bridge across the Stigfossen waterfall is a highlight. Others enjoy the sweeping vistas provided by the angular Trollstigen Visitor Centre. As well as a café and museum detailing the history of the road, this development has a number of look-out points including one steel and glass construction which juts out from a ledge 200m (656ft) above the twisting road. The Trollstigen Centre is located on a plateau which is 853 metres (2,799ft) above sea level. The 11 hairpin bends and steep incline mean that drivers will feel every single one of those metres. However, the platform is dwarfed by surrounding mountains. These include Kongen, the king, and Dronninga, the queen. The former reaches 1,614m (5,295ft) into the sky. The trolls are obviously fairly tall in Norway…

GROSSGLOCKNER HIGH ALPINE ROAD, AUSTRIA On the highest ridge of mountains in the Alps sits Austria’s loftiest peak, the Grossglockner, 3,798m (12,460ft) above sea level. The spectacular and winding Grossglockner High Alpine Route almost matches it for altitude as it snakes its way up and over the 2,504m Hochtor Pass. ➤

The Stelvio Pass achieves an absolutely astonishing vertical climb thanks to its hairpin bends 073


➤ A mountain pass is always an evocative route, a journey from one world to another, usually by an arduous, personally challenging path. It’s a philosophical transformation as much as a road trip. So it is with the Grossglockner High Alpine Road (GHAR). It crosses the Great Alpine Divide, the watershed spine of the Alpine Region. Waters to the north of here all flow north into the Salzbach and Inn rivers which join the Danube at Passau in Germany; to the south

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they join the mighty Drava which drains parts of Italy, Austria, Slovenia and Hungary before joining the Danube around 1,000km downstream from Passau on the border between Croatia and Serbia. This is a dramatic, twisting, often steep drive, requiring plenty of concentration from your driver. Expect distracting views of waterfalls, lakes, glaciers, rocky outcrops and snow-crowned mountains. The idea of the GHAR was derided when first proposed in 1924. The idea of tourism in which the road itself was the attraction seemed laughable when roads were uncomfortable and cars were scarce – according to some sources there were at the time as few as 150,000 vehicles in all of Austria, Germany and Italy, the target markets. The idea was revived at the height of the Great Depression as a means of relieving unemployment. There were more cars on the roads by then, but the target of attracting 120,000 visitors still seemed risible. Nevertheless the dramatic drive was

officially launched in 1935 with a road race for cars and motorcycles which attracted an international field. By 1938 visitor numbers had reached 375,000, three times that first target. The original single-lane surface has been improved and considerably widened over the years and about 350,000 cars and coaches travel its 62km each year. It’s a toll road too, and in 2019 a day ticket for a car costs €36.50; so who’s laughing now? The route leaves the town of Bruck heading south on Route 107, between the steep sides of the narrow Fusch valley. At Ferleiten a large car park and some toll booths mark the start of the adventure. Note that the road is liable to closure in bad weather at any time of year, and is never open overnight. If you find the road ahead closed, there’s accommodation here. The road climbs, clinging to the left-hand side of the valley before doubling back on itself repeatedly in a series of four hairpin bends to gain extra height. In the range of mountains opposite sits the Grosses Wiesbachhorn,

AIN’T NO MOUNTAIN HIGH ENOUGH: [left] Trolls’ Path, a snaking mountain approach road that’s the most famous in Norway; [right] The Grossglockner High Alpine Road was the location for Bentley’s launch of its latest Continental GT.

Expect distracting views of waterfalls and glaciers on the Grossglockner High Alpine Road

PHOTOGRAPH by (Norway) Guillermo Avello/Alamy;

a 3,564m (11,693ft) mountain encircled by glaciers, and at Hochmais rest area you feel almost as if you are level with the peaks. But you are not. A further set of six tortuous hairpins raises you another 300m (984ft) in less than 3km. And still you climb until a series of nine extreme bends make the final assault on Fusch Summit, the lower of two climaxes of this route. Just before you reach it, take a turning on the left. The direct route from Bruck to Heiligenblut is a mere 48km in length, but there are two

indispensable side roads from it. This, the first, takes you to Edelweissspitze, Edelweiss Point, a viewpoint of heart-in-mouth beauty across the whole of the Hohe Tauern mountain range. The air genuinely feels thinner here, but the scenery is richly, classically alpine. Beyond Fusch Summit, at Fusch Lake, there’s an exhibition about the construction of the GHAR and views back across some of the hairpins that brought you to the summit. Then the road climbs, with the help of a tunnel and further hairpins, towards the border between the Austrian states of Salzburg and Carinthia. It crosses the border underground, emerging from a second tunnel at Hochtor Summit, 2,537m (8,323ft). Hoch Tor means ‘high gateway’. As if you needed to ask. More hairpin bends now take you down through the upper runs of the Heiligenblut ski area. At a roundabout, you can take the second of the route’s side-road detours, to Kaiser Franz Josefs Hohe, a viewpoint – unsurprisingly – made famous by the visit

of Emperor Franz Josef. The 7km road to it skirts the beautiful glacial lakes of Margaritzenstausee and Sandersee – both worth the short walk to their remote shores. The viewpoint itself, housed now in a modern glass lantern, looks across to the Pasterze glacier and the Grossglockener mountain itself. This is as close as the route takes you to its namesake, while nearby a cable railway will lower you almost to the Pasterze valley floor, within a couple of kilometres of the glacier face. From the Emperor’s Viewpoint you can retrace your route and complete the descent into Heiligenblut, a pretty alpine resort offering canyon rafting and walking trails in the summer to complement its extensive winter sports facilities. For now though, the driver of your vehicle will be grateful, after 53 hairpin bends, for a few moments of quiet meditation on the smallness of man in the vastness of the mountains. ■ Remarkable Road Trips by Colin Salter is published by Pavilion Books, £25.



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PHOTOGRAPH: Inside the movement of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic


THE STEEL GOOD FACTOR There’s something about a humble steel watch that goes beyond its precious metal counterparts. These varied examples, from peak horological specimens to great value beaters, showcase the appeal

PATEK PHILIPPE: Nautilus 5726-1A-014, £35,160

Gerald Genta’s 1972 masterpiece has been the backbone of Audemars Piguet for decades. But the manufacture still manages to come up with new ways to delight its countless fans. The new 38mm self-winding chronograph is a graceful, slightly more petite, version of the icon – and comes in a particularly slick allsilver package.

What more can be written about Genta’s other evergreen design? The Nautilus is a stone-cold classic, one of the first sports watches, and perhaps the most immediately distinguishable piece on the market to this day. This striking iteration features a sunburstblue dial, with handy moonphase and annual calendar complications under the hood.



AUDEMARS PIGUET: Royal Oak Chronograph 38mm, £23,200




IWC: Portofino Automatic, £4,050

Glashütte Original hasn’t always focussed its watchmaking attentions on traditional timepieces. During the 1950s and 1960s, it rolled out accessibly priced utilitarian pieces like the Spezimatic Type RP TS 200 – a piece it reimagines under the name SeaQ in 2019.

The Portofino is a timeless ode to classic watchmaking that began life in 1984. This latest version stays true to its mission statement of creating a simplistic, elegant timepiece that reflects the heritage of the traditional Swiss watch, and features a handsome dark blue dial.





URBAN JÜRGENSEN: Jürgensen One, £23,940

GRAND SEIKO: SBGK005, £6,600

On the other end of the timescale to the 1970s sports watches is this brand-new design from Urban Jürgensen. Unlike the angular, sharp lines of those historic pieces, the Jürgensen One design revolves around a series of varying circular shapes overlapping one another – including a distinctive tapered bracelet that features oval-shaped links.

Just take a look at the frankly staggering SGK005: it features a deep-blue textured dial that Grand Seiko refers to as the Mt Iwate pattern; a perfectly balanced power reserve and running seconds at three and nine o’clock respectively; and an unusual rounded case shape. This watch is uniquely beautiful. It’s as simple as that.



HAMILTON: Khaki Pilot Pioneer, £720

Rado isn’t known for its dive watches, but the Captain Cook – produced between 1962 and 1968 – was a notable exception. The new version shares many of the same details as the original, with 21stcentury watchmaking ticking along inside.

The new Khaki Pilot is sure to join its Hamilton sibling the Khaki Field as a much-loved heritage reboot. Inspired by the W10 pilot watch, once issued to the Royal Air Force, this small squareshaped piece is quite unlike any aviation model available right now.



RADO: Captain Cook, £1,750


TUDOR: Black Bay P01, £2,830

BLANCPAIN: Fifty Fathoms Barakuda, £11,370

The P01 is a ‘unicorn watch’ – a watch that never truly existed. Yes, there was a filed patent in 1968, followed by the odd closely guarded prototype, but it has taken until 2019 for Tudor to bring one of its most unusual creations to life. The mechanism set between the lugs clamps down on the bezel to lock it in place preventing any accidental knocks. Genius.

The Barakuda is every bit as cool as the 1987 Heart song of the almost identical name. Blancpain’s vintage reissue is perhaps one of the most iconic models of the lauded Fifty Fathoms dive watch collection. First launched in the 1960s for the German navy, it featured striking dual-tone indices, which can be found on the revamped version today.




PANERAI: Luminor Marina, £7,200

The Master collection sees Longines offer some of the best value classical watchmaking available. Its latest piece features a moon-phase and date display on a traditional barleycorn patterned dial. The self-winding mechanical movement, with a 64-hour power reserve, is worth the price point alone.

The Luminor Marina is Panerai’s slightly dressier take on the brand’s iconic dive watch. Pushing this concept further is the latest iteration, which now comes with a vertically brushed silver dial. We haven’t seen the monochrome look on a Panerai before but we very much approve.



LONGINES: Master L2.919.4.78.3, £1,760


A GENUINE BRITISH BOBBER WITHOUT COMPROMISE The Bonneville Bobber has the peerless authenticity of a genuine factory custom. Its low, stripped-back minimalist styling, innovative and elegant engineering with a ‘Bobber’ tune on the category-leading high-torque Bonneville 1200cc engine. With over 130 accessories there’s every opportunity to make it truly yours. Bobber, and Bobber Black. Get out on one soon and prepare to be stunned.




It took just one man to create a world time mechanism that provided the blueprint for an entire age of watchmaking. And it took one brand to ensure his ideas found worthy fruition, says Mark Hedley



O UNDERSTAND THE history of world time and travel time watches, you need to know about one man in particular: Louis Cottier. This Genevan horologist was born into the business: his father was an accomplished independent watchmaker in his own right, and he quickly followed suit. Cottier’s early CV included personal watch restorer to Rolex’s Hans Wilsdorf as well as a stint in JaegerLeCoultre’s watchmaking department. But it was in 1931 when he really began to make his mark, creating a revolutionary new mechanism. It involved a rotating bezel on which the names of the principal cities or locations of different time zones were inscribed. This was the first movement capable of showing the times of the 24 zones. Naturally, Cottier’s invention caught the attention of all the major players, but it was his then burgeoning relationship with Patek Philippe that stood the test of time.





REF. 515 HU [1] In 1937, Patek Philippe launched the first ever World Time wristwatch – the Ref. 515 HU. It was the first time Cottier had worked with the brand – and the result was an art deco masterpiece. Cottier’s movement was ingeniously incorporated into a rectangular case that has a fixed time-zone plate showing 28 locations and a 24-hour rotating disk. Both the minute hand and the hour hand are disengaged from the movement when adjusting to a new timezone, meaning that no timekeeping accuracy is affected. Only three examples of the Ref. 515 HU are known today. And the HU in the name? Heure Universelle.

REF. 1415-1 HU [2] In 1940, Cottier’s World Time mechanism was given a new lease of life – this time combined with a chronograph. The Ref. 1415-1 HU has since become one of the most sought after watches ever made. It took until 2016, with the Ref. 5930, for Patek to unite both world time and chronograph functions into its regular collection. The Ref. 5930 is the spiritual successor to that pioneering 1415-1 HU.

REF. 2597

PHOTOGRAPH by Jean-Daniel Meyer

The first purpose-built jet airliner was the British de Havilland Comet – its maiden flight was in 1949 and it entered service in 1952. It was the beginning of commercial jet flight as we know it – and as such world time watches were no longer a novelty but a complication that proved useful to a rapidly growing number of affluent customers. It was this demand that led to the more simple but no less elegant Travel Time watch. In 1958, Patek’s first

dual time model was launched – the Ref. 2597 included two hour hands so two time zones could be shown simultaneously.

REF. 5034 [3] Although Cottier died in 1966, his legacy continued in Patek Philippe’s watchmaking. Where the 1970s saw more stylistic and aesthetic additions, it wasn’t until the late 1990s that another significant step forward was made: the Calatrava Travel Time. This watch incorporates an ingenious system whereby pushers enable the local-hour hand to be moved backward or forward by one hour at a time. When the owner isn’t travelling, the two hour hands are superimposed and work as one – decluttering the dial and restoring the watch to singular clarity. Black minute and hours hands display local time, while a gold hour hand tracks hometime. The subdial beneath 12 o’clock serves as an AM/PM indicator for hometime – its hand is also gold to correspond with the hometime hour hand.

REF. 5110 [4] It wouldn’t seem right to let the turn of the millennium go by without a significant development. And indeed, in 2000, Patek’s new Ref. 5110 fulfilled that duty. It was the first watch to contain the newly patented World Time complication, which enabled the user to

correct all the displays collectively by a single actuation of a push piece without any negative affect to the accuracy of the watch. Particularly clever stuff – especially for when you’re travelling across time zones on a regular basis.

REF. 5520P-001 [OPPOSITE] Fast forward to the modern era, and Cottier’s template continues to be extrapolated. Patek’s latest launch from this year’s Baselword – the Ref. 5520P-001 Alarm Travel Time – comprises a new self-winding grand complication that combines both a dual timezone system with a 24-hour alarm mechanism, complete with a hammer that strikes a classic gong. The movement has racked up another four patents for the alarm system alone. The result is a pilot’s watch that lives up to its name – fitting for serious aviators and jet-setters alike.

TIME LORD Cottier was undoubtedly a horological genius – few single watchmakers have shaped one area of watchmaking to such an extent or for such an extended period of time. But despite his status as the godfather of world timers, Cottier never travelled further from his native Switzerland than France – meaning he never had the occasion to use the complication that he had so thoughtfully created. ■ For more information, see




SAILS TARGETS When it comes to watches made to be worn at sea, Rolex sails ahead of the rest. Mark Hedley charts the story of the brand’s prestigious nautical heritage 088



T THIS SPRING’S Baselworld, Rolex

launched its new Yacht-Master. The largest (by 2mm) and sleekest (think polished white gold meets matte black Cerachrom) iteration of this model yet. But where many brands may create a new watch design to salute something which, frankly, may have very little to do with the heritage of their brand, Rolex is celebrating a decades-old partnership. Rewind to 1925, and the first ever 605 nautical mile Rolex Fastnet Race took place. This now famous biennial offshore yacht race was organised by the Royal Ocean Racing Club, and was named after the Fastnet Rock, which the race course rounds. It was the catalyst for a whole host of international races, opening the door to racing offshore in yachts of 30ft and upwards. By the time the 628nm Rolex Sydney Hobart Yacht Race was founded in 1945, the discipline had come of age – and has continued to develop, with the Rolex China Sea Race in 1962, and the Rolex Middle Sea Race in 1968 being two renowned successors. Of course, sponsorship is just the public facing element of this partnership. What matters more are the men on board – and the watches on their wrists.

PIONEERING SPIRIT Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf was one of the first to grasp that increasingly active lifestyles demanded a wristwatch chronometer that was accurate, self-winding and, significantly, waterproof. So when it came to hitting the high seas, he made sure that yachtsmen would naturally turn to Rolex. In 1960, the first solo transatlantic race was won by British yachtsman Francis Chichester. Such was the success of this inaugural race that four years later it was held again with more than twice as many participants. Chichester would finish second on this occasion. Spurred on to greater heights, he then set about proving it was possible to sail solo around the world from west to east in a ➤




MAKING WAVES: [this image] Francis Chichester during his epic voyage aboard the Gipsy Moth IV; [left] Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 42.

➤ time faster than the three-masted clipper ships of the 19th century. Setting off in 1966 aboard his 55ft ketch Gipsy Moth IV, Chichester counted among his ‘crew’ a sextant and a Rolex Oyster Perpetual chronometer, which absorbed the same drenching and scrapes as him. In one captioned picture from the voyage, he noted that “Gipsy Moth IV needs running repairs after capsizing in the Tasman Sea, but the Rolex ticks on happily.” After 226 days, including a stopover in Australia, Chichester returned to Plymouth having rounded the three great Capes: Good Hope, South Africa; Leeuwin, Australia; and, the Horn, Chile. He was knighted by Queen Elizabeth II for “sustained endeavour in the navigation and seamanship of small craft”. His epic feat, undertaken at an age when most are considering retirement, inspired still greater achievement. The Clipper Route, embraced by Chichester, is the favoured course followed by the most challenging round-the-world yacht races, all of which came into being after his venture.



THE HAVE YACHTS The Yacht-Master itself was the first watch to be created specifically with sailing in mind. The case was waterproof (to 100m, but if it ever reached those depths, you were well and truly overboard) – and its rounded design was

THE YACHT-MASTER WAS THE FIRST WATCH TO BE CREATED SPECIFICALLY WITH SAILING IN MIND fashioned to avoid snagging rigging or sails. When seemingly every ‘first’ has been achieved, what’s next? For Rolex, it’s more about perpetuity: supporting clubs, races, and racers keeps a hard-earned heritage alive. Only seven yachts raced in the first ever Rolex Fastnet Race. This year, 478 boats competed across five classes with 30 trophies handed out. In 1925, the winner completed the course in 147 hours; today, yachts are competing to beat the monohull record of 42 hours 39 minutes made in 2011. According to John Markos, past Commodore of the Cruising Yacht Club of Australia, one of the prizes has attained legendary notoriety: “The engraving on the back of the Rolex timepiece awarded to the overall winner means everything. It stamps the timepiece with a unique feature that cannot be purchased. While a trophy like the Tattersall Cup is awarded each year, the Rolex watch is personal, owned and carried by the winner. It’s become a recognised symbol of success and achievement.” ■ For more information, see

PHOTOGRAPH (Chichester) by Chichester Archive/PPL

When the French sailor Bernard Moitessier and British yachtsman Robin Knox-Johnston set off to prove it was possible for man to circumnavigate the earth solo, few believed they would succeed. Of the nine sailors to embark on the challenge, only one completed the full course. Moitessier looked capable of completing the task and in the fastest time, but chose to abandon the contest, continuing east towards the Cape of Good Hope for a second time

rather than heading north once he had rounded Cape Horn. Moitessier would go on to cover some 37,455nm before coming to rest in Tahiti, the longest non-stop passage by any yacht. Knox-Johnston persevered with the quest, arriving back in Falmouth in April 1969, some 312 days after his departure. As the winner of the Golden Globe, he entered the history books as the first person to successfully circumnavigate the planet solo, non-stop. And the watches both men wore on their wrists? You’ve guessed it: Rolex. Originally bought for diving, KnoxJohnston laid great store by the characteristics of his Rolex Oyster: “It was strong enough to take a bashing and was predictable, which was what I really needed for navigation, particularly when taking sights on deck. It was a good, reliable, trustworthy watch. Through all the punishment it received it just kept going. It was still working perfectly when I got home, which says it all.” Writing to Rolex in 1969, Moitessier advised that: “Your watch has done me great service – it never left my wrist, even during difficult manoeuvres. Serving me throughout the trip as a navigational chronometer, it was one of the important elements of this voyage, thanks to its precision and its robustness.” Testimonials don’t come much more genuine than that.




IT’S A MATTER OF TIME Laurent Perves is chief marketing officer of Vacheron Constantin – the world’s oldest watch brand. He talks to Ben Winstanley about vintage timepieces, blockchain and the future of the watch industry



oldest watch manufacture in continual production, but it is by no means living in the past – spend any time with the brand’s dynamic chief marketing officer and you will see this ethos incarnate. After a decade of honing his marketing skills in the fast-moving world of fashion and beauty, he joined Audemars Piguet in 2014. Two years later, he moved to Vacheron. He’s witnessed first hand the rapidly evolving trends of the luxury industry along with the burgeoning influence of technology, digital and social media. His role now isn’t an easy one: preserve more than 250 years worth of history, while urging Vacheron Constantin forward to keep up with the modern age. The brand’s latest move on this path is the introduction of blockchain technology to the authentication process – a first in the world of horology, but unlikely to be the last time we see its application in this sector. For Perves, Vacheron’s rich heritage isn’t “just about being the oldest, it’s what comes with that”. It means he isn’t concerned with fickle trends, but is focused on listening to what the consumer wants. In his words, “Change is a natural process… the old inspires the new, and the new slowly becomes the old.” We sat down with one of the sharpest minds in the watch world to find out more… SM: There’s no getting away from the vintage trend at the moment… LP: If you think about it, the production of new watches is permanent every year. It’s only very recently that people have started to sell


How are different brands reacting to the second-hand market? For us, I would say it’s a lot less of a reaction, it’s more of a natural process: being the oldest manufacture in continuous production, the management and preservation of our heritage is an important part of what we do. Our heritage department has existed for a very long time and is fully integrated with our marketing and commercial teams, and also in the design of our new products. We really see it as a lifecycle: the old inspires the new, and the new will slowly become the old. The Historiques collection, which is our interpretation of iconic Vacheron Constantin watches, has pieces like the Cornes De Vache 1955 or the American 1921. Originally, the Historiques were only made in very small quantities – and at the time it wasn’t even a business potential, but a request from some of our very particular connoisseur clients – now it’s incredibly popular. It’s not so much about just being the oldest but what comes with that – the richness of the history, the archive, researching old watchmaking techniques. We can look at what we were doing in the 1950s and the questions we were trying to answer then, and how that applies nicely to the new collections. It’s a real comfort for the brand to have that, and it’s something we try hard to perpetuate. Take the FiftySix collection that we launched in September 2018 in London. Christian Selmoni, Vacheron Constantin’s style and heritage director, worked closely

with our designers to create a watch that was contemporary but rooted in the brand’s DNA. As they looked through the archives, they came back to the 1950s for a few reasons: firstly, it was a very dynamic period for watchmaking, a time when we saw a lot of practical designs, and it was a time when the automatic movement was slowly imposing itself on the industry. We wanted something contemporary, easy to wear and from its time and we settled on a design inspired by the Ref.6073, created in 1956, which had these beautiful Maltese Crossinspired lugs. It’s a circle and you always come back to the most relevant time of history to tell your story, but of course it’s with the technologies of today and it comes with the standard of quality that has evolved over time. Is there a trend towards slightly more accessible price points in watchmaking? It’s funny how it’s always a surprise at first and then people realise it is in fact a consumer need, which is where most trends come from. For us it was never really a surprise. I think if you know the industry and the organic price increase throughout the past decade, you can see that this changing price point was needed. Our main aim was not a question of price, but what was the right watch for the audience of today, what’s missing in our collections and what do we want to offer. It’s true that when we launched the FiftySix at SIHH 2018 it came as a bit of a surprise, but by the time it was available for sale in September it was actually a very natural addition to the line-up and the success we’ve had since then has only confirmed that. It has easily outperformed expectations. Are you aware of trying to reach out to a younger consumer? There are certain pieces that are perhaps not right for the audience – high complications, for example You’d be surprised. It’s always the expectation that high complication, perhaps more expensive, pieces are for the older generations, but that’s not the case. As I always say, our one segmentation is watch connoisseurs and fans of the brand in general. ➤

PHOTOGRAPH by Alex Stephen Teuscher


back their watches and sort of lifecycle their collection. Suddenly, we have a huge secondhand market exploding on products that are, in theory, eternal – in comparison to cars or wine, for example. Some people talk about the market being worth €10bn, some talk about it being worth €50bn, so of course there’s a lot of attention in the sector. Fortunately, very early on we were one of the first brands – and are still one of the only ones – to market our own vintage watches, which we restore entirely and re-certify, authentic and guarantee for two years with the Les Collectionneurs line.





VINTAGE TRACKS: It’s not every day that Vacheron Constantin revamps a whole collection, but in 2018 watch fans were treated to a new-look FiftySix range, inspired by the vintage 6073 design.

➤ With the quantity we produce, starting to segment or subdivide our clients wouldn’t really make sense, and it wouldn’t be respectful of those aspiring to own our watches. Funnily enough, when we look at our clientele, first of all it’s pretty stable in terms of average age, but some of the models that you might expect to be most appealing to a more senior consumer are actually sought after by younger consumers. So, for example, if I take our Métiers d’Art collections or the vintage Les Collectionneurs, they are extremely successful with younger clientele, meanwhile lines such as FiftySix and Overseas are really in the average of the maison. But in general the complicated watch consumer’s average age is constantly going down, which is brilliant for us and the industry because it shows that high-end watchmaking drives interest with the younger generation. Beyond what people think, the younger generation aren’t just after labels and flashy advertising – they want meaning and they want history – so often our younger clients are so eager to know more, to connect with brands like us, and are our most engaged audience in vintage topics. When you know people are ready to pay for a phone that can only make phone calls, or to go on a retreat without their phone, or take time out to meditate, I think there must be a part where people are seeking something that’s more spiritual and tangible than the connected and virtual world. It’s a good thing for the whole industry


because it brings us back to tangible values and forces brands to listen more and more to their clients, and to be more transparent. The watch world has been criticised for not being quick enough to adapt to the digital world. Do you think it’s caught up at last? In the past, I worked in fast-paced categories like beauty and fashion where the fast cycles mean that digital is so important if, say, you need to sell a new pair of sneakers every two months. For us, we use digital and other technological innovations when they add value, not just for the sake of it. We actually had one of the first blogs in the industry – it enabled collectors from around the world to connect with each other and discuss their pieces. Today, we are working with blockchain because we can certify the watches and the same for watch manufacturing: we use some very high-grade technologies when it helps us deliver a higher grade of finishing or craftsmanship.


Could you explain how Vacheron is using Blockchain technology? The main reason we use blockchain is because it’s the most secure way to protect the certificates of authenticity. For a long time we have provided paper authentication of documents for clients, merchants and auction houses, but blockchain is the ultimate technology to protect authentication. And because it’s digital, it doesn’t perish so you can pass it from one generation to another without any concern about losing the documents. The other reason is that with blockchain you can authenticate with more than one document, so you can attach anything that relates to the watch – archives, pictures, drawings, the service documents. This means that the history of the watch travels with it from one owner to another. Contrary to what I’ve read in certain articles, the information is completely anonymous and the data is stored securely. For most of our clients, who are wealthy but discrete people, that’s very important. For the moment, this project is just on our vintage watches, because that is the most relevant field to explore. In the future, however, there is the possibility to move it towards our new collections as well. Of course, the technology is democratic, it doesn’t just belong to Vacheron. I know at the time of speaking there are other brands from different groups looking into this. What is the natural progression for the watch industry? And how do you balance the history of the brand while still remaining current and relevant? I think most brands would answer the same: it’s not so much a matter of being an old brand or a new brand – retail is still the biggest touchpoint for our clients. Even with all of the digital activities that are available, clients at some point want to come into the boutique – even if it’s just to see the watch or to have it set for the first service. The thing that is beginning to change is what happens in the boutique. It’s becoming much less transactional and much more a conversation with the consumer. As much information is available online and digitally, people do still like to talk. For me, it’s a matter of creating complementary touchpoints and ensuring that the message and DNA of the brand remains the same. The brand is 264 years old, so we’re not going to renew who we are today: we’re going to keep doing mechanical watches of the highest quality and finish. ■ For more info, see

Pride Rock by

David Yarrow

Exclusively at Maddox Gallery, Westbourne Grove 4th - 23rd October 2019 MaddoxGallery


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The Peak of Perfection From the snow-capped mountains of Shinshu direct to your doorstep in Canary Wharf, the latest collection from Grand Seiko has arrived – fusing the best of Japanese heritage, beauty and technology


RAND SEIKO IS not a brand that accepts compromise. Before the invention of the Spring Drive, you had a choice to make: wear a mechanical watch and put up with occasionally being late, or select a quartz watch and take it to the jewellers every few months for a new battery. But in 1999, after more than two decades of development, there was a third way… The Spring Drive movement, pioneered by Seiko’s watch engineers, generates energy like a conventional mechanical watch – with a mainspring – but combines this with an electronic regulator to deliver a level of precision that no mechanical watch can match. Twenty years on, it has become recognised as one of the most important developments in the recent history of luxury watchmaking. The second hand of a Spring Drive watch has no tick but instead glides smoothly and silently across the dial. It’s regulated by a magnetic brake that is applied 256 times per second. The resulting sweep gracefully expresses the Japanese concept of time as ever flowing; it’s poetry in motion. The Spring Drive is not only a tribute to Grand Seiko’s quest for timekeeping precision, but also a symbol of a company that prides itself on pushing boundaries – the Seiko Watch Corporation invented quartz, after all. What elevates Grand Seiko further is its incredibly rare status as a true manufacture – meaning complete vertical integration of the production process, with every single timepiece being finished by hand. Very few Swiss manufacturers can make the same claim – and none can match Grand Seiko’s Japanese aesthetic. Ancient techniques

WHERE TO BUY Discover the latest Grand Seiko collection, now located at: Watches of Switzerland Canary Wharf Showroom, Unit 22 Canada Place, Canary Wharf, London, E14 5AH.

SNOW HOW: The Snowflake dial is one of Grand Seiko’s most iconic finishes – inspired by the snow in the Shinshu region. The Grand Seiko Spring Drive Snowflake SBGA211 pictured costs £5,400.

such as Zaratsu polishing, which creates the sharply defined edges and seamless mirror finishing, has become a signature of Grand Seiko. Likewise, the iconic “snowflake” finish, used for the first time in 2005, is another example. The textured dial was inspired by the rough snow surface formed by extreme colds seen outside of the Shinshu Watch Studio, the birthplace of Spring Drive. Fortunately, you don’t have to travel all the way to central Japan to get your hands on a model. Instead, head to Watches of Switzerland in Canary Wharf to see them in the flesh. (Indeed, it’s a testament to Grand Seiko of Japan that it’s now stocked in Watches of Switzerland.) As well as the Spring Drive Snowflake SBGA211 [pictured] with its high-intensity titanium case and bracelet, there are two

further editions to check out here. First is the 20th-Anniversary Platinum Snowflake: a limited edition masterpiece where the dial’s silver finish complements the delicate handcarving on the platinum case. And there’s the Special Edition Baby Blue Snowflake: like its name suggests, this version has a pale blue snowflake dial, which is complemented by the blue steel seconds hand. The latter is armed with the Calibre 9R65, with its automatic winding mechanism and 72-hour power reserve; the former houses the Calibre 9R02, a new movement that uses a unique Torque Return System to deliver a power reserve of 84 hours. Above all, Grand Seiko is a fusion of heritage and technology, of form and function. Just head to Watches of Switzerland’s Canary Wharf Showroom to find out for yourself. ■




The Square Mile Watch Awards in association with RÊmy Martin celebrates the best of mechanical watchmaking. Our independent judging panel of industry experts have voted – and the results will be announced later this month at an award cermony in the City



HE SHORTLISTS FOR this year’s square mile

Watch Awards have now been announced. Check out the nominees over the next couple of pages – including Reader’s Choice, for which you can head online and vote. We’re also delighted to announce Rémy Martin as the Awards’ headline sponsor, inclduing support of our Lifetime Achievement Award – announced at the ceremony. Rémy Martin has become a globally recognised symbol of quality, honouring craftsmanship and embracing the luxury of time – making it the perfect partner. We must also salute Help for Heroes – our charity partner and a fitting supporter of the Best Military-inspired Watch category – for whom we will be raising funds on the evening.




BREITLING Navitimer Ref. 806 1959 Re-Edition


CARL F BUCHERER Heritage BiCompax Annual

TAG HEUER Autavia Isograph

IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire



VACHERON CONSTANTIN Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar

TUDOR Black Bay P01

ZENITH Defy Inventor


In association with


In association with

AUDEMARS PIGUET CODE 11.59 Chronograph

AUDEMARS PIGUET Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin

BULGARI Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic

HERMES Arceau L’Heure De La Lune

GRAND SEIKO SBGY003 20th Anniversary of Spring Drive

BREGUET Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395

PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5235R Annual Calendar Regulator

JACQUET DROZ Grande Seconde Chronograph

HERMES Arceau L’Heure De La Lune

URBAN JÜRGENSEN Jürgensen One Reference 5241

OMEGA Speedmaster Apollo 11 Anniversary Limited Edition

JAEGER-LECOULTRE Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon 5

VACHERON CONSTANTIN Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar

ROLEX Yacht-Master 42

MONTBLANC 1858 Split Second Chronograph


PHOTOGRAPH by David Harrison





In proud support of

BLANCPAIN Fifty Fathoms Air Command Flyback Chronograph


In association with


In association with

AUDEMARS PIGUET Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin

BREMONT HMAF collection


IWC Pilot’s Chronograph Top Gun Edition ‘Mojave Desert’


PANERAI Submersible Militare


TUDOR Black Bay P01


JAEGER-LECOULTRE Master Ultra Thin Moon Enamel



BAUME ET MERCIER Clifton Baumatic

GIRARD PERREGAUX Cat’s Eye Plum Blossom

OMEGA Speedmaster Apollo 11 Anniversary Limited Edition

OMEGA De Ville Trésor


SEIKO Prospex LX SNR029

JAEGER-LECOULTRE Rendez-Vous Night & Day Jewellery

TAG HEUER Autavia Isograph

MB&F Legacy Machine FlyingT

TUDOR Black Bay Bronze 2.0

RICHARD MILLE RM 07-03 Marshmallow

BREITLING Navitimer Ref. 806 1959 Re-Edition BULGARI Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic HUBLOT Classic Fusion Ferrari GT

PATEK PHILIPPE Ref.5172G-001 Chronograph ROLEX Yacht-Master 42 TUDOR Black Bay Bronze 2.0 URBAN JÜRGENSEN Jürgensen One Reference 5241


After the success of the square mile Watch Awards’ debut in 2018, we’ve decided to take it up a level – literally. This year, the Watch Awards ceremony will be held on the 42nd floor of the Cheesegrater in a gala black-tie event on 17 October. A private high-speed elevator will transport guests from ground level to Landing Forty Two, 500ft in the sky, where they will enjoy sweeping views of the City and beyond, over a glass of champagne. Guests will be treated to a three-course dinner and live entertainment, before the real stars of the show are announced in the prize-giving ceremony. Limited tickets are still available. Email


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MOVE WITH THE TIMES With their fascinating history and royal status, jewellery watches have long been objects of desire. Sarah Royce-Greensill takes a look at Graff’s latest additions to this beguiling form of horology


HE VERY FIRST wristwatches were invented

for women. Known as ‘wristlets’, they became popular among aristocratic women in the early 19th century, while gentlemen stuck to their traditional pocket watches. Ladies’ timepieces remained a booming market throughout the early 20th century, with some employing in-house enamellers and gem-setters to decorate their lavishly feminine designs, while others collaborated with prestigious jewellery houses. It was considered impolite for a lady to be seen checking the time in public, so ‘secret’ watches, which masqueraded as bracelets or pendants and concealed a discreet dial, were especially popular. A glamorous finishing touch for the fashions of the era, secret watches enchanted and entertained their wearers, and watchmakers competed to develop ever-more ingenious mechanisms by which to reveal the time. The quest for smaller, thinner movements was also led by ladies’ watch designers, who craved dainty cases for their timepiece jewels. For her coronation in 1953, the jewel that

glinted around Queen Elizabeth II’s wrist was not a diamond tennis bracelet but a watch, fitted with what remains the world’s smallest mechanical movement. And while the overall trend for watches veered more towards the functional and utilitarian, jewellery watches remained a beguiling niche, worn by silverscreen icons such as Elizabeth Taylor and Marilyn Monroe. Fast forward to 2019, and Graff has created a collection of jewellery watches like no other. Some are unique pieces that stand alone as exquisite high jewels that tell the time. Others


For more information, see



form seamless extensions of new and existing jewellery collections, with the aesthetic of the collection deftly woven into the very fabric of the watches. “Watches are not just for telling the time,” says Anne-Eva Geffroy, design director at Graff. “We consider them as jewels first and foremost.” In many ways, Graff’s focus on ladies’ timepieces harks back to the early days of horology. Since its inception, Graff has created beautiful time-telling jewels, with watches dating from the 1970s featuring gem-set bracelets and dials to complement the era’s jewellery trends. Today, however, the exceptional consideration paid to their design elevates these timepieces to works of art. Featuring pendants, rings, bangles and a jewellery watch, the recently launched Kiss collection is a resolutely modern expression of love. A contemporary ‘X’ motif unites the collection, with strands of custom-cut stones intersecting to form a playful kiss. “We experimented with several designs for the Kiss timepiece, but one immediately stood out,” says Geffroy. “By placing the pavé diamond watch face among rows of sapphires and diamonds, we created a dramatic pause in the crossover design – a detail that is mirrored in the solitaire diamond rings in the collection.” New Peony secret watches have been designed to reflect the recently reimagined look of the Peony jewellery collection. Customcut stones are set side by side to form abstract embodiments of this romantic flower, clustered in sleek bouquets in necklaces, earrings, rings and bracelets, and sliding seductively to the side to reveal a miniature pavé diamond dial in several new secret timepieces. With their beguiling history and royal status, jewellery watches have long been objects of desire. At Graff, they offer a beautiful new perspective on the art of watchmaking in which timepieces play a starring role in jewellery suites, and design prowess, artisanal savoir-faire and gem-setting expertise come together in absolute harmony. A glorious reminder that, when it comes to diamond and gemstone innovation in watchmaking, Graff leads the way. ■



MELLOW YELLOW: [this photo] 5.31 carat Fancy Vivid Yellow ova diamond ring (10.34cts); Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond watch (59.25cts); [opposite] Diamond Peony secret watch with satin strap (8cts) and Diamond Peony secret watch with herringbone bracelet (12ct). All from Graff.


Time is of the essence HEATHROW VIP is all about making the most of your time – ensuring you never even have to see a queue.

Thanks to its personal shoppers and VAT benefits, it’s also a perfect place to pick up a new timepiece


EATHROW VIP offers the ultimate luxury airport service for the world’s most affluent individuals, transforming a stressful and over-crowded airport journey into an exclusive and personal experience. For budding watch enthusiasts, the service provides an effortless means of adding the latest watches to your collection via the use of Heathrow VIP’s personal shoppers, as well


as the ability to receive VAT refund from the comfort of your own private lounge. The luxurious experience begins at the front door of your home, hotel or office where a chauffeur will collect you and drive you in style in a BMW 7-Series to a dedicated VIP terminal named The Windsor Suite at Terminal 5. Upon arrival you will be greeted and escorted to your own private lounge, designed

to be a personal oasis of tranquillity for the duration of your time at the airport. Heathrow VIP’s dedicated staff will remove the associated stress of travelling, taking care of your baggage and checking you in for your flight. The team will give you the option of whether you would like to board the aircraft first or last and then keep track of time for you, allowing you to relax and take full advantage of


HELPING HANDS: With chauffeur-driven transfers and your own private lounge, Heathrow VIP’s service is all about maximising your time – including a unique shopping experience with VAT refunds.

PHOTOGRAPH by David Hares

Michelin star-inspired food by Jason Atherton and incredible art curated by Tanya Baxter. Most importantly for any watch enthusiasts, alongside the fantastic food and art, Heathrow VIP’s personal shopper and VAT refund service mean that your time at the airport can be a wonderful opportunity to add to your collection. Heathrow Airport was recently awarded with the title of ‘World’s Best Airport Shopping’ by Skytrax. The most exclusive watch brands – from Rolex to Gucci and Breitling to Jaeger-LeCoultre – are easily accessible from Heathrow VIP. Furthermore, if there is a specific timepiece you desire, why not request for it to be delivered to the relevant store in the airport, ready to be purchased VAT free with a personal shopper. Even if you have already made your latest purchase while visiting London, the in-lounge VAT refund service

means that a VAT refund has never been so simple, with clients able to receive their refund within the comfort of their private lounge. When considering how stressful travelling through one of the busiest airports in the world can be, the ability to shop and receive tax refunds in an effortless and luxurious setting means that there is no better way of travelling than with Heathrow VIP. Finally, once you have purchased your stunning new watch, the Heathrow VIP service includes a private security lane and a chauffeur-driven BMW 7-series to take you straight to the side of your aircraft, meaning that there are no queues or long journeys to the departure gate. Your whole experience at Heathrow VIP is one of utter luxury, and one that provides a wealth of opportunities for anyone looking to purchase the latest addition to their collection. ■

•• For budding watch enthusiasts, the service provides an effortless means of adding the latest watches to your collection Although the Heathrow VIP service is available for both departing and arriving flights, personal shopping and VAT refunds are not available for arriving passengers. Heathrow VIP also offers a service for connecting flights. If you wish to book Heathrow VIP, prices start from £2,750 + VAT for 1-3 people, and more information can be found at The Heathrow VIP reservations team are available 6am-11pm, seven days a week, on +44 (0) 208 757 2227.


We do things

your way.

Experience the freedom of a perfect villa holiday.

With over 45 years’ experience, we know exactly what it takes to create the perfect villa holiday, just the way you like it. Hand-picked properties, selected for their location, quality and facilities are coupled with first-hand knowledge and support, both in the UK and in location. At CV Villas, we do things your way.




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O N E WAT C H : E N D L E S S P O S S I B I L I T I E S !

VA R I U S : C R E AT E D B Y E Q V I S A N D B Y Y O U ! Meet the EQVIS Varius, the 100% Swiss Made luxury watch that can be your personal canvas for creating your individual wrist attire. The Varius‘ patented ring- and strap-changing systems make it easy and fun for you to create a new watch whenever you like. The Varius tool, as well as a variety of accessories are already included. If you like, you can add more changelings, dividers and straps to your portfolio, to expand your palette even further, so that your EQVIS Varius may simply never get boring. Find out more about the EQVIS Varius‘ endless possibilities at


ISLA PLENTY: [clockwise from here] Interiors at Isla are sleek and sophisticated with a 1970s air; soak up the atmosphere with classic cocktails at the bar; Isla’s chimichurri-marinaded Iberico pork with daikon is a showstopper.



Recently opened design-savvy hotel The Standard and its sleek small-plates restaurant Isla offer two good reasons not just to visit King’s Cross, but to linger in the area longer, says MARK HEDLEY


S A MAN born and bred in the south, who spent his formative university years in the north, I still have a lot of friends from God’s Own Country (more commonly known as Yorkshire to those without whippets). And so it is that I spend perhaps more time than I’d prefer in King’s Cross – the gateway to the north – either in thirsty welcomes or delayed goodbyes. As such, the area has always felt like a transitory place to me.

PHOTOGRAPHS by Charlie McKay

Isla’s name is a nod to Great Britain – not in a Brexity way, more a celebration of produce

But then The Standard opened – and it is here to stay: a hotel so obvious in both its location (practically opposite the station) and its architecture (more brutalist than a soviet sledgehammer) that it’s impossible to ignore. When it comes to status, The Standard Hotels group has trend-setting form. The likes of Chiltern Firehouse, Chateau Marmont and The Mercer were all spearheaded by them – and the same stardust has rubbed off here. The Double Standard bar is the place to meet: enjoy crisp, classic cocktails before heading to the neighbouring restaurant, Isla. Both venues have sprawling street-level terraces, which are bordered by ferns, grasses and palms. Once they’ve had a chance to grow, the whole urban oasis vibe will really pay off. Isla’s name is a nod to Great Britain – not in a Brexity way, but more a celebration of produce from the land, soil and sea. Indeed,

that’s how the sharing menu is broken down. In the latter sector, there’s Islay-cured salmon, Fowey mussels, and sea greens – each salty snacks, morsels of the English coast. That said, there are a few diversions from the national diet, including my favourite dish of the day – soft Iberico pork cooked in a chimichurri marinade and topped with shavings of daikon radish. I’d happily have ordered three of those and be done with it. When it comes to drink there’s a strong leaning towards natural wines – including some excellent orange wines that accompany a long, lazy lunch so well. Above all, The Standard has really raised the benchmark in this area. Now there’s not just a reason to pass through, but to stay. ■ The Standard London, 10 Argyle Street, King’s Cross, WC1H 8EG; For more information on Isla, see


FEELIN’ VINE: [this photo] Liber Pater has become one of the most desirable red wines in the world [opposite, clockwise from top] The Liber Pater vineyards are in the far south of Bordeaux; Pasquet has re-introduced historic grape varieties which are flourishing in the region’s sandy soils; Loïc Pasquet with his prized wine.



Loïc Pasquet is producing one of Bordeaux’s best wines, and he’s doing so in his own way, to hell with the critics. ALICE LONGHURST-JONES meets the maverick making the world’s most expensive wine


EPENDING ON WHO you ask, Loïc Pasquet is a troublemaker, a visionary, or just a well-meaning eccentric with some peculiar ideas about how to make wine. A case of his Liber Pater can set you back more than a new Lamborghini with a price tag of up to £26,000 a bottle, but that doesn’t stop collectors across the world from fighting to get their hands on the tiny quantities released each vintage. Success like this doesn’t come easy. Pasquet’s maverick approach and disregard for convention has repeatedly upset the well112

heeled Bordelais elite and even landed him a clutch of court cases. Talking to Pasquet, it’s easy to see why he might rub people up the wrong way. “They’ve sold their souls,’’ he says of his fellow Bordeaux winemakers. Pasquet believes everything changed after the arrival of a devastating pest called phylloxera in the mid-19th century. Within 50 years this louse had destroyed the majority of Bordeaux’s vineyards and had spread rapidly to Burgundy, Spain, Italy, and beyond.

So desperate was the situation that the French government offered a reward of 300,000 francs to anyone who came up with a solution, which remains unchanged to this day. Resourceful grape growers eventually devised a quick fix by grafting vulnerable European grape varieties onto the roots of phylloxeraresistant American vines. What followed was a massive replanting of Bordeaux’s vineyards and a seismic shift in France’s wine industry. Before the arrival of phylloxera some 70% of Bordeaux’s vineyards


Pasquet’s maverick approach and disregard for convention has upset the Bordelais elite were planted with the tarney-coulant variety. In the aftermath of the infestation the composition of the region’s vineyards was transformed with modern-day classics like cabernet sauvignon and merlot coming to the fore. At Liber Pater in the far south of Bordeaux close to the Sauternes region famed for its liquid gold sweet wines, the 300,000-yearold sandy soils provided Pasquet with the perfect opportunity to turn back the clock. The phylloxera louse struggles to survive in sand so he could plant without American rootstock. Pasquet farms his seven hectares of vines organically; he uses a Spanish mule named Carbonero instead of a tractor; and – as of the 2018 vintage – he chooses to age his wines in Roman-style amphorae to show off the profound purity of his fruit. Pasquet has a special hatred for merlot, at least on Bordeaux’s gravelly Left Bank. “If you want to get a good write-up from a critic, you have to make wines that are fat and sweet. That’s why they’ve planted merlot on gravel, to make fat and sweet wines.” Instead, Pasquet has re-introduced historic grape varieties like castets, mancin, lauzet, camaralet and prunelard because “each variety works best on the soils where they were born”. These grapes thrived in pre-phylloxera Bordeaux but have been largely forgotten today. For Daniel Carnio, the Italian wine expert who co-founded fine wine investment company OenoFuture, Pasquet’s project is recreating “the original Bordeaux as it existed before the arrival of phylloxera”. Carnio believes that Liber Pater’s use of native European vines rather than imported American rootstock gives the wine a unique character. “You could drink it straight from the barrel for lunch” explains Carnio, who credits the softer tannins to the use of native rootstock and indigenous grape varieties. Unlike many of the Haut Medoc’s great red wines, Liber Pater is extremely approachable even in youth while still able to age gracefully for decades. Although Pasquet is now well on his way to becoming Bordeaux’s golden boy and even begrudgingly gaining the acceptance of the region’s notoriously prim and proper elite, getting there hasn’t been easy. In 2016

he was found guilty of breaking winemaking rules set by the French government’s Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualite (INAO). That ruling was later overturned in a move which Pasquet described as “a victory for the cultural heritage of wine and for the diversity of taste”. But this hasn’t silenced his critics, with the judge concluding that the case “raised questions about the ways that Loïc Pasquet carries out his viticultural work that are not in line with usual practices”. There have also been physical attacks on Pasquet’s property. At the end of 2015, vandals destroyed 500 vines planted on his 2.5-hectare plot. At the time he viewed the act as “an attack on an historical treasure of Bordeaux” since the site was planted with rare castets grapes. Ironically, these challenges have been good for the Liber Pater brand. Pasquet has firmly established his reputation in the fine wine world as a maverick winemaker who isn’t afraid to forge his own path. The Graves appellation and the wider Bordeaux region don’t currently permit the use of Pasquet’s rescued historic varieties so he simply labels his wines as Vin de France which comes with

far fewer rules and regulations. He doesn’t seem too bothered by this snub, especially given that his wines now rank among the most sought-after and expensive on the planet. Right at the top of that ranking is his 2015 vintage of Liber Pater which was released earlier this year at a record-breaking price of €30,000 a bottle. This pricing eclipses even the billionaire’s favourite Domaine de la RomanéeConti, or DRC as it’s nicknamed by those with deep enough pockets. So, why the hefty price tag? There’s simply not a lot to go around. Pasquet produced just 500 bottles of this vintage and plans to sell only 240 of them. When asked about what he plans to do with the remainder his thoughts immediately jump to the next generation; “my daughter was born in 2015, so I will keep some for her and she’ll do what she wants with it.” Whether she’ll inherit her father’s passion for winemaking remains to be seen, but here’s hoping Liber Pater keeps disrupting the fine wine scene for many years to come. ■ Oeno is the exclusive UK supplier for Liber Pater and specialises in sourcing the finest bottlings for private investment and trade. See


TIMELESS This is the 33ft Riva Aquariva Super, one of a collection of contemporary masterpieces from Riva, from 27ft to 110ft.

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SUITE SPOTS As far as cities go, Las Vegas is extremely lavish. Even here, Palms Casino Resort’s twostorey Sky Villa is stand-out luxe


AS VEGAS. Two words that evoke more

vice than any other place on Earth. Neon lights, Elvis bellowing Vivaaa, supercars, smoke and poker chips. It’s a place that makes Shoreditch look like the Cotswolds. A place with at least a cameo in just about every cool story that has ever been told. And it’s also home to The Palms Casino Resort’s two-storey Sky Villa. A perfect embodiment of the city’s mantra, this penthouse suite is simply, utterly, beautifully ridiculous. Where to begin? The 32rd floor, I suppose. The Sky Villa includes a massage and fitness room, personal sauna, two master bedrooms and a 24-hour butler – what more could you ask for? A 17-seat bar, enough leather sofas to field exactly the sort of parties (sorry, conferences) you see in the movies, and your wildest dreams. Is this all getting a bit much? Fair… how about a leisurely swim in the private pool overlooking that famous skyline? And should you need anything, like, anything, then just ask the butler. You could say, wow, hard job, but look at their office. Not to mention the tips, this place is setting you back five figures a night. What happens in Vegas won’t stay in Vegas with all the photos you’ll take. There’ll be no fear nor loathing here either, though there might be some in the Instagram comments... ■ For more information, see

Suite Spots is in association with Heathrow VIP – the ultimate airport experience. For info: 020 8757 2227;


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ALL AT SEA: [Clockwise from this image] 12th Knot may be stylish inside, but it’s difficult to beat those views; Lyaness is the next evolution of Team Lyan’s winning formula; the terrace at 12th Knot is one of the best places in town to enjoy a sundowner.

Movers and shakers SEA CONTAINERS LONDON is home to not one but two of London’s best cocktail bars. We’re

offering you the chance to win £100 to spend behind the bar and experience them for yourselves.


HERE AREN’T MANY hotels in London that have two bars that both get our juices flowing, let alone two bars with stunning riverside views to boot. Sea Containers London, however, is just so bestowed – with the boundary-pushing Lyaness as well as the rooftop bar and lounge 12th Knot.

LYANESS Lyaness is building on an impressive foundation: its former incarnation, Dandelyan, was named top dog at The World’s 50 Best Bars 2018 awards. In the same spirit, Lyaness is a cocktail bar that goes beyond the simple focus of what’s in your glass. Team Lyan has always had a curiosity for finding new ingredients, and an ability to make these unusual, often weird forms taste delicious. With different spaces to accommodate private settings through to bigger social

occasions, the space has been created by renowned interior designer Jacu Strauss and the Lore Design Team. Featuring a signature electric blue, as well as the original green marble bar, arrive early for a cocktail-based Fancy Tea, and stay late into the night to enjoy resident DJs over the weekend playing an eclectic mix of rock, funk and disco.

•• Team Lyan has always had a curiosity for finding new ingredients, and an ability to make these unusual forms taste delicious

12TH KNOT Situated 12 floors above, 12th Knot is Sea Containers London’s vibrant rooftop bar and lounge. Formerly known as Rumpus Room, it still enjoys the same winning combination of stylish seating, cocktails celebrating seasonal ingredients, DJs and live music – all set against an unrivalled backdrop of the Thames. A true reflection of the South Bank’s vibrant energy, expect bright, striking décor and an open-plan layout which puts the panoramic views centre stage. So whether you’re curled up on a window seat, relaxing on the balcony, mingling at the bar or strutting on the dance floor, London’s skyline is the main attraction. WIN £100 BEHIND THE BAR For your chance to win drinks and nibbles up to the price of £100 in either Lyaness or 12th Knot, head to ■





4.0 LITRE V8





7.9 SECS


770 NM


212 MPH







The new spider version of McLaren’s 720S is just as epic as the coupé – with added wind in your hair, says MARK HEDLEY


PHOTOGRAPH by publianc larit em potinium vid ces blah

ALONG CAME A SPIDER: The new McLaren 720S Spider was already the best supercar in the world – and it’s just got even better…

S A MILD-MANNERED Englishman, the idea of owning a supercar brings with it a degree of inner turmoil. If I were at a dinner party, where a new acquaintance asked what car I drove, and my response was a Ferrari or a Lamborghini, I know what their first thoughts about me would be – and they’d be entirely justified. Imagine spending £250,000 on a car and then having to be somewhat apologetic about it. That is not a problem with McLaren. Own a McLaren and you’re making a different statement altogether. This is the thinking man’s supercar – and the new 720S Spider is the marque’s star pupil. There is not one panel or pedal, button or lever that has been overlooked – I’ve rarely been in a car so intelligently and thoughtfully crafted. Take the new retractable hard top, for example. First, there’s the sheer speed (both of retraction and motion): 11 seconds in either direction at up to 31 mph. Then there’s the material: within its carbon fibre frame is a glass roof panel ensuring you retain an airy feel in the cabin even if it’s too cold to have the roof down. Should the sun be too bright, simply press a button and the glass darkens to an inky blue. It’s even supported by glazed flying buttresses – not only do these look cool but also aid all-round visibility and guide air over the tonneau cover. All this said, you will want the roof down whenever possible – anything to get you closer to the throaty exhaust note from the Ricardobuilt V8. Indeed, rather than placing the exhausts in the standard position where the bulk of the car shields you from their sound, McLaren lifts them higher bringing them that much closer to you. The engine note is less ‘screaming mad man’ and more ‘swaggering tenor’. When you’re hammering up the gears, hitting the red line, there is something operatic about the whole experience – like ‘Nessun Dorma’ on nitrous. The acceleration from the 720S is nothing short of epic. That 4.0-litre powerplant is boosted by a pair of turbochargers enabling the car to hit 60mph in 2.9 seconds. At least, according to McLaren. In fact, an independent motoring website,, tested

the car and managed zero-60mph in 2.38 seconds. That’s faster than a Bugatti Chiron. What’s even more staggering is the 0-100mph time they managed to clock – 4.9 seconds – toppling any Italian or German rival in the same price bracket. This is hypercar performance in a supercar shell. Of course, shell isn’t quite the right word – more carbon fibre Monocage II-S tub, to be exact. This is the core of the McLaren – and it’s one of the reasons the marque is able to build such capable spiders: very little needs to be done to transform coupé to convertible. The Macca is just as adept in both guises. The only weight additions come from the roof mechanism and the new rollover protection system – bonded to the chassis, the latter is unlike previous iterations as it’s made from carbon fibre rather than steel. Carbon fibre is McLaren’s signature and its superpower. Sure, every Tom, Dick and Aston uses the material these days, but few with such flamboyance as the Woking manufacturer. McLaren was, after all, the first ever manufacturer to use the material in Formula 1. It means the Spider weighs in at just 1332kg – a good 100kg lighter than any of its direct competitors. But whereas some lighter-than-feather cars can feel a bit twitchy – where the only place you’d be brave enough to push them hard is somewhere with a long run-off – the McLaren feels incredibly grounded. It encourages you to push your limits without ever feeling like you’re getting close to those of the car. Part of this comes down to the Macca’s aero solutions. There’s the full-width active aerofoil rear wing which doubles up as an air brake. Then there’s the Variable Drift Control which helps correct your line without being too interventionist. Handy, if you’re going to take it to the track and unleash its full potential. Even on London’s busy streets, the McLaren is a wonderful place to be. Although, you will have to get used to members of the public asking – as happened to me on three separate occasions – if you’d like to swap cars with them. They’ll be lucky… ■ For more information, see




COUNTRY LIVING Lucknam Park’s guest cottages offer a family-friendly stay that’s still luxurious. MARK HEDLEY makes himself at home…


Frankly, if they’d thrown in a bar, I’d have happily stayed there all day, never mind my son 120

PARK LIFE: [this image] The Keeper’s Cottage is one of a pair of new guest homes; [right] riding along Lucknam Park’s mile-long drive.

The produce here might come from the earth but it’s out of this world. My son even ate the mushrooms – and he never eats mushrooms. Speaking of the kids, this is where Lucknam really comes into its own. On their beds, they were each welcomed by Chester, the stuffed horse (you can meet the real Chester in the neighbouring equestrian centre); a Tractor Ted book signed by the author (Farmer Giles?); and a mini bathrobe and slippers (the correct sizes for each child; the toddler’s is beyond cute). Next door to the guest cottages is The Hideaway – this final cottage is essentially a full-sized fun house. Downstairs there’s a room full of train sets and car tracks; another of baby toys and stuffed animals; upstairs there’s one with a foosball table and table tennis table; another with cinema screen; and a final with X-Box and PlayStation. Frankly, if they’d thrown in a bar, I’d have happily stayed there all day, never mind my six year old. However, that would be a bit of a shame, as there are more than 500 acres to explore. You get a taster of these as you first pull onto the estate – the mile-long tree-lined driveway is a proportionately impressive welcome. Indeed, the drive is so prodigious that at the start of the Second World War it was used to hide Spitfires and Hurricanes – the huge beech trees and lime trees making perfect camouflage from German reconnaissance flights.

Elsewhere there are tennis courts, cycling paths and word-class equestrian facilities. When it comes to the latter, Lucknam has impressive form: during the 1960s and 1970s, under the stewardship of owners Jeff and Bab Stevens, the stables bred and trained 200 winners including Raffingora and My Swanee. After a long ride (whether on bike or horseback), the ESPA Spa should be your next port of call: kids can go in the pool while you take it turns to get the relaxation you need in the therapy rooms. I can highly recommend the so-called Fitness massage. Don’t worry: you don’t actually need to be fit to qualify for it – just have enough aches and pains to benefit from a good pummelling. For dinner there’s Michelin-starred dining from Restaurant Hywel Jones or the more relaxed brasserie. The latter offers not just delicious food but floor-ceiling windows overlooking manicured gardens. But if you’re a guest in the cottage, you may just want to hole up there. Enjoy your own kitchen, relax in your own space, and pretend – even if it’s just for a weekend – that you actually live there. ■ Rates at the Keeper’s Cottage at Lucknam Park start from £1,470 per night based on a family of six sharing on a room-only basis. There’s a two-night minimum stay over the weekend. For more information, see

PHOTOGRAPHS by (drive) Hannah Freeland; (cottage) Mark Hedley

O YOU WANT five-star facilities, but without the fustiness? Somewhere that is family friendly but still feels super special? You’re in luck. Or should that be Lucknam? The renowned Wiltshire hotel has you covered – especially thanks to a brace of new cottages. The first is the Keeper’s Cottage – a traditional three-bed that has been painstakingly refurbished: think the best of period charm (Belfast sink; wooden beams; exposed stone work) combined with just the right proportion of tech goodies (flatscreen TVs; Ruark Audio player; Nespresso machine). The second is so new that it wasn’t even open when we visited, but it will be by the time you read this. It’s a four-bed with a slightly more contemporary feel, but just as homely. One thing both cottages enjoy is onsite catering from the neighbouring hotel. This starts as you walk in the door with your arrival care package. A pair of champagne bottles was the first thing I spotted, but for those with more practical priorities, there’s also fresh milk, butter and bread as well as a homemade carrot cake. (If you like it as much as we did, you might consider signing up to the Lucknam cookery school to learn how to make it.) Breakfast is also delivered to your cottage every morning. We enjoyed – and I don’t exaggerate – the best strawberries ever; tomatoes ever; eggs ever; you-get-the-idea ever.

W H AT W H ISK Y’ S B EE N WAIT ING FOR Don’t take this the wrong way. If you’re a staunch purist who believes whisky should never be mixed with anything other than a single ice cube or splash of water, turn the page. But we believe it can be mixed with more. That’s why we created Fever-Tree Ginger Ale. Blended with three naturally sourced gingers from around the world, it’s been crafted to enhance the complex flavours of whisky, resulting in a delicious balance of sweetness and spice. Whisky and Ginger Ale. A simple, refreshing way to enjoy whisky. Try it. We think you’ll find that, finally, there’s a mixer worthy of whisky.


GOING LONG Kaiser Chiefs’ lead singer RICKY WILSON was in need of a decent holiday, so we sent him off for a stay at Long Beach Mauritius where, we’re happy to report, no riots ensued




IT IS VERY PRETTY, I TELL THEE: Perched on the powder-soft white sands of Belle Mare beach, Long Beach Mauritius provides easy access to the warm, welcoming Indian Ocean.

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online where all the countries are covered with silver like a lottery card. All you have to do is scratch off the places you have been as if you are collecting Pokémon or living out some sort of life-long bucket list of stopovers. The adverts for these have probably been algorithmically aimed at my computer because Instagram has noticed that I travel a lot, which is true, and I’m very lucky to do so, but my main priority at the moment isn’t any more travelling, but actually going on holiday. I realise that ‘getting away from it all’ requires a certain amount of travelling, but these maps I’ve seen advertised have a disturbing element of colonisation to them. I’ve been to Russia – does that mean I can take the edge of my 50p to the entire continent? And if I’ve been to Italy, does that mean I can take out Sardinia and Sicily in one go? I don’t know the rules, and I haven’t ordered one on Amazon. I did notice though, if you look closely enough, just to the right of Madagascar, there is no little silver blob to represent Mauritius, and that is good enough reason as any to go there on my precious, once-every-two-years holiday. I try to synchronise holidays with Anthony Horowitz book releases, so with paperback in hand and my phone on silent, I arrived at Long Beach Mauritius wearing not much more than a floppy hat and a tied-on smile. I took such a small amount of luggage for ten days that the only bags I was charged for on the flight were the ones under my eyes. So here is the important bit – what was it like? It was, simply, paradise. Not the manufactured, sand-raked and personalitycleansed paradises of daytime TV holiday competitions, but a real island paradise that made me feel, even from within the footprint of a luxury hotel, that mine were the first footprints to walk along the beaches. The sea was the ideal temperature, colour and fallingin distance from my room, with just enough attitude to make it fun, and the sky only let me know it was there with its magnificent sunrise and the odd shower that would snap my mind back into the appreciation of the wonky perfection that Mauritius is all about. Situated on the much-loved Belle Mare beach on the east coast, Long Beach provides panoramic vistas of white sand beaches and azure sea that make it incredibly easy to relax. Make your way to the ‘Sun Beach’ – an exclusive beach – and get treated like a queen bee in your own wicker cocoon where waiters bring you sugary nectar laced with rum every 15 minutes. There was always room on every beach; I don’t know how they’ve done it, but it never felt crowded. Indeed, I always felt like ➤



Just as a good martini should taste of nothing, a great holiday should mean never thinking 124

yourself, there are excursions to the local market where the head chef helps you pick out and buy the freshest local ingredients, which he then shows you how to prepare back at the resort. I really do recommend this – it’s the kind of thing I wouldn’t normally do but found incredibly rewarding and really helped me understand the country a little better. There’s not much that tells you more about a place than how and what they eat. There are two ways of dealing with the overindulgence of daytime beach drinking and night-time overeating – you can either move more, or move a lot less. Long Beach Mauritius caters for both extremely well. Firstly, we’ll think about moving more. There’s diving, yoga, sunrise kayaking, water skiing, windsurfing, tennis, badminton, climbing, cycling… I’m exhausted just typing the list, but you get the picture. If it gets the blood pumping then it’s available. Golfers can take a free return shuttle and boat transfer to Île aux Cerfs Golf Club, a stunning island located just off the east coast with an 18-hole championship course designed by Bernhard Langer. It’s a delightful spot for hitting a few holes surrounded by cerulean waters and white-gold beaches. Back at the resort, I spent a few sessions in one of the four pools indulging in a new form of exercise with which I was so impressed I’m still doing it a month later. Led by former Olympian swimmer Cecile Jeanson, the muscle-strengthening water classes are unique to Long Beach Mauritius and help your brain connect to the water, creating awareness of the way this element can benefit your muscles. I can’t really describe it, but it was relatively painless and provided an even tan…

The second, and probably preferable way to unwind is to do less than nothing. The Cinq Mondes Spa and Wellness Retreat, with its huge array of wellness treatments inspired by Mauritian traditions and time-honoured rituals from around the world, will help you in your endeavours to be as lazy as possible. Your only bodily exertion will be tying up your robe. The outdoor spa pavilion, immersed in a tropical garden, can make you feel great on the inside and look great on the outside. My only regret is not being allowed to stay long enough to require a haircut in the beauty parlour. I’ve always been dubious of holiday evening entertainment, but I can honestly say that once my body had relaxed and I’d let my worries flow away, it was difficult not to be swept up by the fun of it all. It’s hard not to have a smile on your face while you’re singing along to ‘Daydream Believer’ as a dancer in more sequins than Elton’s storage facility does a backflip. Since returning to London, once in a while I see someone with a slight smile on their face as they hang onto the handrail rumbling into Mornington Crescent, and I can’t help but think that they must have, like me, just got back from Long Beach Mauritius. Like myself, I doubt that a pin in a map, or scratching off the silver foil will be of any importance in the lasting list of reasons to have visited the island. I experienced a new kind of relaxed that I can still recall by closing my eyes, and it’s a feeling that will stick with me for a long while. Or at the very least until I go back. ■ Prices at Long Beach Mauritius start from £224 per night based on two sharing a room on a half-board basis. For more information and to book, visit

PHOTOGRAPH (pool) by Jean-Bernard Adoue; (beach) Renaud Vandermeeren

➤ I was the most special guest. Every room seems to be the best in the house. The hotel itself was faultless. You know once in a while you go somewhere and within a couple of hours it feels like you live there? Well, if you don’t, and you’d like to experience that, head to Long Beach Mauritius. It’s kind of like the opposite of staying on a (not-so-close) relative’s sofa-bed over Christmas, when they tell you to ‘make yourself at home’, but you never actually can. The super-friendly hotel staff are attentive (but not over-the-top like in a posh shop) and I never noticed actually wanting for anything. Just as a good martini should taste of nothing, a great holiday should mean never having to think. Speaking of martinis, there are plenty of bars and restaurants to explore at Long Beach Mauritius. In the first five days I went to all of the five main on-site restaurants and could honestly not pick a favourite. So for the following five days I did it all again without hesitation. From the main restaurant Le Marché with its fun and easygoing atmosphere, to the more formal Hasu serving authentic Japanese dishes, there really was something for every mood. If you feel like having a go at cooking the local cuisine

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‘BEACH HOLIDAY’ MEANS different things to different people: some like to dance till dawn, others prefer yoga at dawn; some want to snorkel the seas, others would rather hit the links. Fortunately, The Palm Beaches in Florida is home to 47 miles of golden beaches so there’s definitely enough sand here to make a holiday your own. The Palm Beaches, just an hour from Miami, is made up of 39 vibrant, diverse and welcoming communities each offering their own unique charm. You can immerse yourself in the colourful culture and nightlife of West Palm Beach; soak

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up the unspoiled beauty of Jupiter; travel back in time to an art-deco golden age in historic Palm Beach; or sample the boundless art and culinary treasures of Boca Raton. If you’re after R’n’R, there are spas aplenty. And if retail therapy is more your bag, then there’s everything from shopping malls to boutique salons – just don’t forget your Amex. The dining scene is as varied as you’d expect: arrive by boat or by car at Guanabanas in Jupiter to savour fresh seafood beneath a thatched Tiki hut; sip a Bloody Mary over brunch and scan the crowd for celebrities in the speakeasy surroundings of Ta-boo on Worth Avenue, Palm Beach; or grab a gourmet burger at ROK BRGR, a Prohibition-inspired gastropub in Delray Beach. When it comes to holing up, The Palm Beaches boasts an impressive array of hotels, inns and resorts. One thing that links them all is exceptional service and friendly hospitality. Welcome to The Palm Beaches… ■

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OH DANNY BOY Golf is a fickle sport: one second it can propel you to the upper echelons and the next it’ll gladly rob you of your perceived talent until you are a shadow of your former self. Just ask Danny Willett. The former world number one amateur snatched victory at The Masters in 2016 after marching through the door Jordan Spieth left open for him after a mid-round meltdown. The Englishman’s back nine that fateful Sunday was that of a golfer with the world at his feet. Then the Ryder Cup happened. No more than six months after his solo major victory, Willett lost every match at the biggest team event in golf – perhaps distracted by the media circus that surrounded some unsavoury comments his brother made towards rowdy American fans. The following year also left little to be desired, thanks in large part to back problems, while 2018 began with a torrid nine consecutive missed cuts. Willett hit rock bottom – well, 462nd on the official world golf rankings, any way – a self-confessed “dark place”. But green shoots (shots?) of recovery began to sprout at the back end of the year, thanks in part to the tutelage of new swing coach Sean Foley, where a spate of solid performances culminated in a surprise victory (to everyone but Willett) at last year’s DP World Tour Championship in Dubai. It was Willett’s return to Wentworth – to this year’s BMW PGA Championship that added the final touches to his comeback. After a scintillating 65 on Friday, the Englishman ended up in his own private battle with tournament co-leader Jon Rahm – a fight from which he would eventually prevail. Willett made six birdies on Sunday, but it was a miraculous bogey from 40 feet – following a wild drive, a hit tree, a hack out of heather and a bunker shot to the green – that proved to be the deciding factor. “It was a good battle out there, with myself more than anyone else,” Willett said, after collecting his $1.2m winner’s cheque. You can’t help but think the Yorkshire native was talking about more than just his latest victory. Back inside golf’s top 50 for the first time since 2017, Willett’s next target will surely be a stab at redemption at next year’s Ryder Cup. If he plays as at Wentworth, he’ll be sure to give Team USA something to think about. ■



NO SPAIN, NO GAIN Did you know there are more than 350 golf courses in Spain? Don’t worry, we’ve selected five of our favourites to put on your bucket list



PGA CATALUNYA Girona, Catalonia

PHOTOGRAPH byPHOTOGRAPH publianc larit em bypotinium Steve Carr vid ces blah

It’s difficult to explain quite why PGA Catalunya is the best golf resort in Europe – not just by our estimations, but by several other leading golf titles, too – without first talking about the people who make it tick. The Estrella-pouring clubhouse bartender on the shady terrace asking “Who won today then, gentlemen?”; the hotel concierge who races us to carry our bags to the golf course shuttle, or; the starter who smiles and gives us the thumbs up, even after one of our party snap hooks a nervy first tee shot out of bounds. This place, brimming with European Tour-level facilities, is founded on kindness, positivity, and above all a desire to share a love of golf. Even high handicappers crave to walk in the footsteps of champions – there are, after all, few sports where amateurs and professionals can share the same field – but there are precious little establishments that strike the right balance between prestige and access. PGA Catalunya gets it spot on. It starts on the practice ground – or grounds, to be exact. The resort offers a mind-boggling array of options for every element of a player’s game. The Golf Hub encompasses a grass driving range, a range fitted with TopTracer technology, a swing analysis studio and a practice hole. The piece de resistance, however, is a monumental 2,000 sq m putting green and chipping area that boasts five bunkers, each containing different sand types from around the world (Augusta, St Andrews, Hawaii volcanic, PGA Catalunya’s own Stadium Course, and Pebble Beach). If this all sounds far too intimidating, there are also introductory lessons in the art of chipping, putting, and the general golf game by the resort’s in-house professionals. There are two world-class 18-hole golf courses to choose from, including the highly enjoyable Tour course. Weaving through pine-tree flanked ground and covering the more undulating parts of the property, the open layout is the perfect stepping stone for the crown jewel of PGA Catalunya – the utterly spectacular, visually arresting Stadium course. Three-time host of the Spanish Open (2002, 2009, and 2014), the course comes from the collective minds of Stan Eby (European Golf Design), Neil Coles, and Angel Gallardo who were tasked by the European Tour with coming up with a championship course equal to the PGA Tour’s iconic TPC Sawgrass. In short, they succeeded. Rolling through perfectly manicured fairways, dipping through pine, bent cork

and oak forests, and clearing vast swathes of water, the Stadium is a challenging, at times remorseless, test of your game. Beneath the backdrop of the Pyrenees, players will need to bring a proficient driving and long iron game to reach some of the lengthiest par fours you are likely to encounter anywhere. The 9th and 18th, for example, both stretch out more than 450 yards from those playing the white tees – fortunately with six different tee boxes to choose from, the challenge can be reigned in to meet the playing abilities of the group. Perhaps the greatest design achievement is the green complexes themselves, each of which offer a smorgasbord of protection to the pin – regardless of placement. The putting surfaces are smooth and pure, with a frequently tricky amount of slope to navigate. Miss the green and pillowy countered bunkers await you – or, worse, a watery grave. There are a number of holes that feature water to navigate, in particular a large lake that plays host to the 3rd, 11th, 12th and 13th holes; collectively the strongest part of the course, but by no means the only standouts in the superb layout. Flying back on the plane, it’s the par-four 13th that sticks in the mind. Our second of two rounds on the Stadium takes place in the late afternoon, the sun beginning to droop into the treeline. The water sparkles in a golden hue as we lace our drives to the landing area 280 yards in the distance. It leaves a 100-yard wedge to a semi-island green fraught with danger. Let us tell you, it’s one of those shots you wish you could take a bucket of balls and enjoy until there’s no more light in the sky. The serenity of the water, the tricky back left pin position, it conjures images of Augusta and, yes, TPC Sawgrass. Accommodation caters for both ends of the market, including the brand-new threestar Lavida Hotel that more than punches above its weight – in fact, we’d argue it’s perfect for your average group golf trip. Hotel Camiral, however, offers the five-star cherry on top of a truly breathtaking golf experience. It just doesn’t get better than this.

The 13th is one of those shots you’d love to take a bucket of balls to and enjoy all day 131


LA RESERVA CLUB Sotogrande, Costa del Sol La Reserva Club has blossomed into an immersive community of luxury living since opening in 2003. Some €50m has been spent developing the golf course, crafting an avant garde 2.5-hectare ‘lagoon’ for swimming and watersports, and creating the infrastructure for countless multi-million euro properties dotted across the estate. The course itself continues to grow from strength to strength. The Cabell B Robinson design is an intimidating 7,400 metres (more than 8,000 yards!) long and now features lethally quick greens after a recent renovation. As it winds through two intersecting valleys, the layout offers a fair challenge – and, much like its big brother Valderrama, gives you every opportunity to keep a score going, so long as you are accomplished with the driver and can control your spin approaching those lightening, undulating putting surfaces. The Ladies’ European Tour stopped off at the golf course this season. If La Reserva continues to surge up the rankings, no doubt the mens’ tour will duly follow suit…

SON GUAL Palma, Mallorca Located less than 15 minutes from Palma airport, Son Gual is the dream-made-reality of German businessman Adam Pamer, who was reportedly so fed up with long rounds on other golf courses on the island that he decided to build his own. Some €30m and five years later, his vision opened for play in 2012. Such a sizeable budget gave architect Thomas Himmel the resources to fulfil plenty of daring design elements that would be beyond most resort courses, including an island green, a 1.2km man-made river, a vineyard, and the planting of acres of wild flowers between fairways. The course itself flows in two loops, with seven large lakes puncturing the fairways at regular intervals to provide plenty of thrills and spills. But the water, nor the massive clover leaf-shaped bunkers – of which there are 66 – act as the main line of defence. It’s the


LUMINE GOLF & BEACH CLUB Tarragona, Catalonia Located just around the corner from PortAventura, Lumine offers its own form of amusement park across three Greg Normandesigned courses and a huge beach club. The Lakes is a links-style course that features several water hazards that wind around wetlands, while the Hills courses runs through pine trees and offers spectacular views of the Balearic Sea. Completing the golf offering is the 9-hole Ruins Course, another Norman design, which is laid out among Roman archaeological remains – and though half the holes, is equally

the measure of the two fully fledged tracks. It’s the perfect end to any multi-day holiday, with the airport beckoning in the afternoon.

ALCANADA Alcúdia, Mallorca One look at the natural beauty of the Robert Trent Jones Jr-designed Alcanada is enough to see why more and more golfers are making the trip to Mallorca for their next holiday. Situated on the tip of Alcudia bay in the north of the island, most of this 7,108yard course takes advantage of its stunning waterfront location. All but one of the 18 holes offer views of the sea, but teeing off from the par-five seventh, eleventh and thirteenth holes – tee shots soaring towards the Balearic – is reminder enough why we play this game. When the wind is up this course can break your heart, but the stern test provides a wealth of excitement for the memory bank. ■

PHOTOGRAPH by Iñigo Santiago Saracho [Son Gual]

La Reserva Club has blossomed into a community for luxury living since 2003

treacherous false fronts to the greens that will beat up your scorecard. Highlights are many, but it’s the par-five 18th, which demands twice traversing water, that will provide the talking point over a postround in the clubhouse.


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A QUALITY GOLF EXPERIENCE CLOSER THAN YOU THINK Royal Mid-Surrey Golf Club in Richmond offers 36 holes of challenging golf, just a short journey from the heart of London. With a modern clubhouse, extensive practice facilities and superb catering, it’s the perfect venue for corporate golf days and events. Tailored packages are available from £125 per person for golf and a 3-course meal. Individual visitor green fees are also available on weekdays.





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CLOUD NINE: [this image] The terrace at the new Nine Elms Point development; [opposite, clockwise from top left] Darby’s brings NYC to LDN; tapas plates at Brindisa Battersea; flowers galore at New Covent Garden Market.


ACT LOCAL: NINE ELMS Nine Elms is one of the largest regeneration schemes in Europe – and one of the last areas of central London to be redeveloped. We check out the most exciting reasons to visit – and to buy in – the area


INE ELMS COVERS 3km of the Thames’ south bank and will include a new cultural quarter that aims to bring the energy, authenticity and edginess that defines a modern city. The new destination will create 20,000 new homes, 25,000 jobs, vast office and commercial space as well as plenty of leisure facilities, parks and squares. Add to that two brand new Underground stations, a proposed new bridge across to Pimlico, an array of shops, restaurants, bars and cafés and it’s easy to see how Nine Elms is fast becoming a captivating area. Stretching the entire length of Nine Elms will be a linear park, connecting riverside 138

walkways and cycle paths with wide green spaces and areas for outdoor recreation. Such is the excitement surrounding Nine Elms that a number of prestigious institutions have already made it their future

home. The US Embassy moved from Mayfair to its iconic new site here in summer 2017, establishing a new diplomatic district. Apple has also announced it will set up its new UK headquarters here, housing around 1,400 staff. So what else can you expect from the area?



Stretching the entire length of Nine Elms will be a linear park, connecting riverside walks and areas

NYC-inspired oyster bars don’t get much better than this. Or much more affordable. Head on down to Darby’s between 5pm and 7pm on Tuesday through to Saturday and get half a dozen oysters and a pint of Guinness for £10. Yeah, it’s fairly safe to say that Darby’s



has got its whole classy Irish-American dining experience shtick nailed. If you fancy something a bit more substantial, a haunch of Dexter beef and a portion of seriously buttery mash should fit the bill.

Brunswick House Set in an imposing Georgian building, Jackson Boxer’s Brunswick House is a restaurant where you can eat some excellent food and take some memorable Instagram photos while you’re at it. Quaff back the sommelier-selected wine of the week while you split a whole seabass in a dramatic, stylish space that sits between classic brasserie and antiques shop – think chandeliers, heavy drapes, a chequered floor and red leather banquettes. Aside from the dining room there’s a bar area serving snacks, beers and classic cocktails. In a setting like this, it’d be criminal not to order an Old Fashioned.

Waterfront London True to its name, this recently refurbished pub sits overlooking the Thames, right by Wandsworth Bridge. There’s a large garden at the riverside, meaning you can take your highball cocktail or high-brow beer outdoors and watch the sunset hit the river, which is very ‘gram-friendly and you know, romantic. The size of the place also makes it ideal for special occasions – whether it’s a birthday, wedding, or perhaps most importantly, the rugby, you’re guaranteed ample space and refined surroundings.


When completed, the redeveloped Battersea Power Station will include a brand new high street Battersea Power Station When completed, the redeveloped Battersea Power Station will include a brand-new high street, a riverside park and a luxury hotel. The area’s already become a hub for excellent food and drink, with highlights including seafood experts Wright Brothers and Vivek Singh’s Cinnamon Kitchen. You can also enjoy superlative Spanish small plates at Tapas Brindisa Battersea (it’s hard to say no to manchego) while you decide what else you’d like to gorge yourself on. When it comes to fast and friendly lunchtime options, organic sourdough pizzas from Mother and ramen bowls from Tonkotsu – complete with 18-hour slow cooked broths and homemade noodles – are both worthy additions to the Battersea landscape. After that, pop round to Vagabond Wines in Circus West Village to sample one of their 100 wines sourced from all around the world. There’s even one made on-site at the power station – it’d be rude not to try it, right?

London Restaurant Festival Nine Elms has also been chosen as one of the settings for this year’s London Restaurant Festival, which is held throughout October. Events include a range of tasting menus and restaurant-hopping tours. Brindisa and Estrella Galicia are teaming up to host ‘London’s Longest Lunch’ with an indulgent six-course Spanish feast along the Thames. Starting at Brindisa London Bridge, diners will then be whisked down the Thames via Clipper to Battersea Power Station where they’ll enjoy the second half of their lunch at Brindisa Battersea. It’s a long lunch that we can definitely get on board with, quite literally.

THE MARKETS Vauxhall Street Food Market Do you like food markets that are a bit more street? If so, head on down to the Vauxhall Street Food Market for a range of stalls selling grab-and-go snacks for you to get your teeth into. Burgers from Holy Moly; wraps from souvlaki purveyors Opa-Opa; pasta and pizza from The Italian Food Co; dumplings and noodles from Win & Lily Oriental Fine Foods; and waffles and crepes from Crepe Away. What else do you need to know?

New Covent Garden Market Being the largest wholesale fruit, veg and flower market in the UK (clocking in at ➤

POTUS restaurant PHOTOGRAPHS by (Nine Elms Point) Iain Lewis; (Darby’s) Paul Winch-Furness; (New Covent Garden) Dan Kitwood

Situated in the Crowne Plaza hotel next to the US Embassy, and exhibiting photographs of presidents meeting the Queen, there’s nowhere more appropriate for a slice of upmarket American dining in London. And for chef Pablo Peñalosa Najera, who began his career as a 16-year-old waiter in New Mexico, the menu is a personal dive into the classics he remembers from across the border.

The Alchemist Like a cocktail bar on acid, The Alchemist is an exciting addition to Nine Elms, offering a touch of drink with your theatre (or so you’ll say on the way out after a couple). Eccentric presentation, curiously obscure ingredients (tree bark, anyone) and mixologists keen to devise drinks that will test your boundaries all within a golden brown speakeasy-style bar (and a lovely garden) mean that this is a place you’re guaranteed to talk about long after you’ve visited. Oh, and did we mention there’s a great food menu, too.




The Nine Elms Point development is built around more than an acre of private gardens

STRAIGHT TO THE POINT: [clockwise from here] One of the spectacular penthouse apartments at Nine Elms Point; the development also includes a state-of-theart gym – and a cinema room with bags of style.

➤ 57 acres) New Covent Garden Market is a haven for those seeking quality produce on a modest or grand scale. Boasting nearly 200 stalls, the market is still growing – with two further phases of development still to come. It’s open from midnight until 6am for your fruit and veg fixes; 4am to 10am if you want to stick around smelling the roses as the sun rises.

THE PARKS Battersea Park


THE DEVELOPMENT Nine Elms Point Barratt London is bringing together some of the finest contemporary urban architecture to create Nine Elms Point. This collection of 647 studios, apartments and penthouses is set across seven buildings and built around more than an acre of private landscaped gardens. There are plenty of stand-out features for residents to enjoy, including the use of an exclusive private dining room and kitchen

Both penthouses are currently available at Nine Elms Point, starting from £3,999,950, with a show home due to launch this autumn. Studios, as well as one and two-bedroom homes are also available, with prices ranging from £599,995 to £904,950. For more information or to book an appointment, visit, or call 0333 344 7205.

PHOTOGRAPHS by (gym and cinema) Iain Lewis

There are two types of park: parks for chilling, and parks for doing. Both can be found near Nine Elms. Battersea Park definitely falls into the latter camp. Renowned for its permanent fixtures – a Victorian sub-tropical garden, a children’s zoo and a lakeside restaurant – the park also hosts endless events including outdoor cinema screenings and one of London’s finest firework displays. It’s an ideal place to spend a day exploring among the greenery, and given that it stretches over 200 acres, you’ll likely discover new secrets each time you visit. Fishing, anyone?

Vauxhall Park Vauxhall Park, on the other hand, is a park for chilling. Home to the historic Vauxhall Pleasure Gardens, this modestly sized (8.5-acre) piece of land is a quiet spot between Vauxhall and Stockwell. Beyond plonking yourself on the grass and soaking up the last of this year’s rays, there are a handful of other things to do. Here for those who like to look large, view the model village; or if you smell (or like smells) there is the famed lavender garden. What better scent is there to chill out near?

perfect for entertaining. “Larger dedicated dining areas set within these developments are especially popular with our international clients keen to show their guests the best of London,” says Pam Reardon, Sales and Marketing Director at Barratt East London. Other facilities include a cinema room, residents’ lounge and business suite. There’s also a state-of-the-art fitness suite for working out before or after work. Completing the five-star service is a 24-hour concierge, ensuring Nine Elms Point is not just somewhere to live, but somewhere to enjoy. At the top of the tree are the new penthouses – a perfect solution for investors and owner-occupiers alike; if it’s a prime property in a prime location that buyers want, then the Nine Elms Point penthouses are the best value for money, as well as an excellent lifestyle choice for city workers. Two three-bedroom penthouses, Archer and Wilberforce, have just launched. The Archer penthouse has a light and airy main living area on the first floor, with bi-fold doors opening onto a large private terrace and a separate balcony. There’s also a study on this floor which is ideal for anyone working from home, while the first floor offers a separate living area attached to the master suite with a second balcony, giving buyers a chance to relax in the peace and quiet. Equally as impressive, the Wilberforce penthouse occupies the top two floors of Waterford Point; a landmark tower for the area at 37 storeys tall. The ground floor houses the three bedrooms, as well as a large openplan living and dining area, and a private balcony. Perhaps the most exciting element of this property is the first floor with its stylish, separate living, dining and kitchen area, which leads through to an enormous private terrace that’s absolutely perfect for some serious outdoor entertaining. ■




When it comes to storing your record collection, you’re going to want something that really shows it off. USM’s personalised Haller media unit should fit the bill FOR THE RECORD Just as your treasured record collection is tailored to your musical tastes, the way you store it can be just as unique thanks to USM’s personalised Haller media unit. Made specifically to accommodate your cherished collection, as well as turntables, it’s a pretty special storage solution.


PHOTOGRAPH by publinc larit em potinium vid ces blah

While it’s made-tomeasure for whatever you may want to accommodate right now, the flexible nature of the Haller modular media unit means it can grow as your collection does, leaving you free to buy more records and invest in new pieces of equipment with no storage limitations. For more information, see


Photography by David Harrison & Annie Brooks

Located in Clapham, Tun Yard Studios provides a bespoke environment for events and studio work T: 020 7819 4191

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Four examples of the shoes for a lifestyle, they are perfect examples of Malatesta shoes, high-quality man leather shoes created for the Man of Today. W: malatestashoes

Amidé Hadelin offers exclusive handmade accessories for modern gentlemen appreciating classic style and traditional craftsmanship. Our collection of carefully curated accessories is expertly handcrafted by British and Italian artisans upholding long-standing traditions. This burgundy business essential is a fine example, a tie handmade in Italy from a luxurious F.lli Tallia di Delfino wool/silk/linen fabric. W: @amidehadelin

A Crest is a representation of a family’s core values. With over 35 years’ experience in creating and designing the most desirable signet rings, we at The Oxford Signet Ring Co. understand the importance of producing a unique masterpiece for you and your generations to follow. Pictured: seal engraved 18ct yellow gold bloodstone signet ring - £1,350.00 W: @oxfordsignetrings

At UNDONE, we know a thing or two about customisation and personalisation, after all, why wouldn’t you want to tailor your watch to fit your style. Introducing the upgraded Basecamp; fun, functional and most importantly, customisable. 100m WR, Double domed Lexan polycarbonate, now in blue. W: @undonewatches

Ruby & Oscar offers exceptional men’s jewellery using cutting-edge craftsmanship, contemporary metals and flawless design. Formed with the modern man in mind, discover the collection of ontrend men’s bracelets, rings and cufflinks designed to complete your look. Pictured: Men’s Art Deco Link Bracelet in Titanium £215 Item Code: R126435T W:

Sacinu offers cufflink designs that you will not find anywhere else. They would like to provide something special, different and unique - not only standard. Creativity and the desire for something new is their motivation. Let them be your inspiration. Cufflink material: 925 Sterling silver, price range 80 - 90 € W:




Telegraph Ski and Snowboard Festival 2019




David Hill Gallery, W10/until 29 Nov

HOFA Gallery, W1S/1-14 Oct

Documentary photographer Hunter Barnes made his name photographing individuals on the fringe of society, including bikers, Bloods and prison inmates, and it’s these people who form the basis of his solo exhibition, Outside of Life: Lowriders, Coolers, Bikers and Bloods. Pictured above is ‘Fred, Espanola, Chimayo, New Mexico’.

This thought-provoking exhibition sees Terry O’Neill’s iconic portraits of Hollywood icons reworked by Bran Symondson. The powerful images feature legends such as Michael Caine and Brigitte Bardot holding guns, but with real bullet holes to deliver the message of peace and beauty over war and hate.

For info, see

For info, see



The Grosvenor House Hotel/16 Nov

Leadenhall Building/17 Oct

The Float Like A Butterfly Ball offers the chance to mingle with world champion boxers, celebrities and billionaires all for a good cause: Caudwell Children. The white collar boxing charity gala is hosted by Kirsty Gallacher and sponsored by Ewing Law. Tickets start from £350, or £3,000 for a table of ten.

In case you’ve missed it (which magazine have you been reading?), we’re hosting the Square Mile Watch Awards on 17 October at Landing Forty Two in the Cheesegrater. If you’d like to join us for a champagne reception and three-course dinner, there are tickets still remaining. Contact:

For info:

For info, see

ROM THURSDAY 24 to Sunday 27 October, Battersea Evolution will be transformed into a magical alpine arena to host The Telegraph Ski & Snowboard Festival 2019. The four-day festival unites ski, winter sports and destination experts – and is packed full of information for novices and ski fanatics. The event has taken inspiration from some of the best large-scale ski celebrations in the mountains to create an exciting version right here in London. At Mount Battersea, the UK’s largest real snow Big Air, top athletes will show epic tricks descending from the top of the 50ft kicker. The festival also features an ice rink, dog sledding and mini action sports zone as well as resorts and tourist boards, mountain retailers and a vintage ferris wheel. ■ Tickets start from £21.65 per person. For more info or to book, go to


Go to events for complete listings of upcoming events and parties occurring in the City and beyond.




ON REFLECTION: As part of last year’s competition, Jennika Argent was highly commended for this unique perspective of the Gherkin and the Church of St Mary Axe taken on her phone.

ENTER NOW! The square mile Photo Prize 2019 is still accepting entries until the end of October. Send in your best photographs of the City or Canary Wharf for your chance to win. ■ To enter, send your high res jpegs to photo@ with subject header ‘Photo Prize’. Maximum 20 entries per person. Good luck!


Skinny dipper*

dives to 300 metres with parts exposed


Five years since the launch of our in-house chronometer, Calibre SH21, the 100-piece C60 Apex Limited Edition celebrates in style. A rarity for a dive watch, its front and back have been stripped away to reveal the more intricate parts in all their glory. It’s easy to see why this represents the pinnacle of the brand’s horological prowess today – all whilst in its birthday suit. Do your research.

Profile for Square Up Media Ltd.

Square Mile – 147 – The Watch Issue  

Square Mile Magazine – Issue 147 – The Watch Issue – Cover Star Aaron Paul

Square Mile – 147 – The Watch Issue  

Square Mile Magazine – Issue 147 – The Watch Issue – Cover Star Aaron Paul