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Elegance is an attitude Simon Baker
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EDITOR’S WORD O
H MY GOD! You have Craig David for the cover? That is
so cool.” I have to admit, I was a little surprised by my colleague’s reaction. He’s young, trendy and also cool (he’s a snowboarder, lead guitarist in a band – you get the idea). I definitely wouldn’t have had him down as a lover of early-noughties UK garage sensation Craig David. He had overheard a conversation our editorial team was having about this issue’s cover star – and came to tell us how awesome David’s set had been at Glastonbury last year. And it wasn’t just him. Everyone I mentioned the interview to – from a friend’s 50-year-old uncle (an unlikely superfan) to a handful of young millennials who didn’t know CD back when his first album came out on actual CD – had all downloaded his latest album. Rewind a decade, and it wasn’t possible to mention his name without someone in the room carping in a broad Yorkshire accent, “It’s proper bo, I tell thee.” Even Bo Selecta’s Leigh Francis had no idea how pervasive his rubberfaced Kes-wielding caricature would become. But despite the singer admitting how hurtful he’d found it, the two have since buried the hatchet. No one could ever deny his natural talent – indeed, winning three Ivor Novello awards in one year (2001) was a sign of how much he was respected as a songwriter. In the days of one-hit wonders, achieving two number-one albums 16 years apart is quite some achievement. The moment his comeback was complete was surely performing on Radio 1’s Live Lounge. In his version of Justin Biebers’ ‘Love Yourself’, he rapped a supersonic rhyme, a pointed message to “all the cats who thought he weren’t all that”. It’s fast and furious, a counterpoint to the rest of the song, which is delivered in David’s silken tones. As one of the comments beneath the YouTube clip attests: “Craig David’s voice is so smooth he could sing the ingredients to blueberry pancakes and… Boom! You’re pregnant.” Enjoy the interview. And stay safe, kids.
Mark Hedley, Editor, @mghedley
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IF THERE IS A BETTER SINGER IN ENGLAND THAN CRAIG DAVID, THEN I AM MARGARET THATCHER. – Elton John By Chaz Hutton. A Sticky Note Guide to Life is out now. (£10; Harper Collins).
square mile ISSUE 130
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Starting the year as we mean to go on: wearing elegant minimalist watches... from @nomos_glashuette @glashuetteoriginal Glashutte #watchwewant Shot by @harrysawthis for Square Mile.
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FEATURES 060 . I DID IT MY WAY Make your mark and go bespoke
066 . PICKING A NEW COLLAR SCHEME London Fashion Week Men’s top ten trends
070 . UPWARDLY MOBILE
022 . THE EXCHANGE 024 . ESCAPE ARTIST 026 . ART WORK 029 . POLITICS 030 . HOW TO DISAGREE
106 . SPORT SUPPORT 108 . CYCLING 112 . BAHRAIN 117 . TRAVEL SHOW 118 . AUSTRIA 120 . FOOD & DRINK 124 . TIGER WOODS 126 . GOLF IN CANADA 130 . KIT-BAG BUYS
074 . SPRING FORWARD
035 . SHARP NOTES 036 . MY WORLD 039 . SUITS 040 . MAN BAGS 042 . RETAIL DETAIL 044 . WATCH COLUMN 046 . WATCH WE WANT 048 . TOUGH TIMEPIECES 054 . OSCARS STYLE 056 . ONE TO WATCH
080 . CRAIG DAVID
Find out what’s next for the comeback king
086 . LIFE GOES ON Why post-conflict photography is so important
096 . SURF & TURF Surfing the City streets with Laura Crane
102 . STILL IN THE GAME Frank Lampard on embracing life off the pitch
HOLDINGS 135 . INTERIOR DESIGN 136 . PROPERTY
END PLAY 141 . SEIKO SOCIAL 143 . EVENTS 146 . WORLD’S BEST JOB
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THE EXCHANGE ART WORK POLITICS HOW TO DISAGREE
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PHOTOGRAPH: Head Instinct i.KERS (Â£425; whitelines.com)
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THE WORLD’S BEST SNOWBOARDS
PHOTOGRAPH by Rebecca Naden/PA Archive/PA Images
▽ 1. BEGIN ALL social encounters by entering the room with a knee-slide across the floor. 2. Introduce yourself with a memorable fact (“Last time I had to wear a nappy…”) 3. Create a close personal connection, perhaps by using sellotape or superglue. 4. Try not to break wind. 5. Summarise your expertise through the medium of song. 6. Mirror body language. If the other person picks their nose, pick yours. Or theirs. If they visit the bathroom then follow, unless they are of the opposite sex, in which case wait patiently outside, unless they invite you in.
7. Play to your strengths, eg moonwalking, push-ups and talking burps. 8. Always ask open questions, eg ‘would you be interested in an open relationship?’ 9. Stand out by wearing a bow tie or hat, or by standing outside. 10. Participate in group discussions by screaming, “I want to join in!”. 11. If denied entry to the group, tap the backs of knees to activate a swift collapse. 12. Be polite and friendly rather than forceful and odorous. Never bring a real gun. 13. Prior to all events ensure you wash thoroughly between your holidays. 14. Remember names by writing them down on people’s foreheads. 15. Make fast friends by tapping shoulders, then darting left when they look right. 16. Follow-up all interactions via email, Twitter, Facebook, Whatsapp, or Instagram. 17. Ignore the above, join LinkedIn. ■
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For more see saulwordsworth.com
BEST FOR: SERIOUS FREERIDERS
▷ Even after decades in the game, Nicolas Müller remains popular thanks to his effortless style in the backcountry. For the last couple of winters he’s ridden the Gnu Müllair, his own pro model with American-based board builders Gnu. Its cambered profile delivers plenty of power and pop, making it ideal for boosting off natural features, and it’s just stiff enough to be stable at speed without feeling too much like a plank. If it hasn’t snowed in a while, the Müllair’s wavy edges ensure you get maximum grip on even the iciest terrain. However, it’s in the deep stuff that it really comes into its own. For more info, see whitelines.com
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ASTON MARTIN VANTAGE, FROM £120,900 WORDS Mark Hedley
▷ There was a time, not that long ago, when every new Aston Martin looked kinda the same as every old Aston Martin – but just a slightly different size. Not so, anymore.
BEST FOR: ANNUAL TRIPPERS
▷ It may be better known for their line of racing skis, but Head also does a fine line in snowboards. The Head Instinct i.KERS is a quality all-rounder that boasts some truly remarkable tech features, chief of which is a Kinetic Energy Recovery System that will be familiar to F1 fans. It also features graphene, the one-atom-thick ‘miracle material’, that reduces the board’s weight without compromising strength and stability. If all of this sounds like it’ll be a bit expensive, then you’ll be pleased to learn that the Head Instinct i.KERS comes in at a very reasonable £425. For more info, see whitelines.com
There’s no doubting the new Vantage’s lineage, but this new version is exactly that: new. It doesn’t borrow anything from its predecessor, and it shares fewer than 70% of the parts from its older brother, the superb DB11. It is undeniably beautiful – even in
The new ‘baby’ Aston comes in considerably north of £100k. But then, it’s lighter than a Porsche 911 Turbo; has more torque than an Audi R8 V10; and is faster than a MercedesAMG GT S, so it’s worth every penny. It’s the first Aston ever to have an
that vaguely offensive neon yellow. But more exciting is what lies beneath: a 503bhp, twin-turbocharged AMG V8, which results in a 0-60mph time of 3.6 seconds and a top speed of 205mph. This is proper supercar territory, which might explain the price hike.
electronic rear-diff, which helps it handle like a dream and maintain stability at the ‘you should probably know better’ speeds. Plus, there’s a mighty downforcegenerating diffuser – a lovely sight for all those you overtake. ■ astonmartin.com
BEST FOR: BEGINNERS
▷ The Burton Instigator is new for this winter, and has already made a name for itself as the ideal choice for entry-level snowboarders. Obviously its performance is a little lacking in some areas but that shouldn’t concern a newbie. Its slightly directional shape is more effective than ‘true twin’ boards when you’re getting to grips with those first turns, and the flat profile is less likely to catch on the piste. Best of all, the Instigator is pretty damn hard to outgrow; many an expert rider has bought one to use as a fun, affordable ‘resort’ board for when the conditions rule out any powder-chasing. For more info, see whitelines.com
RICHARD ELLISON, WANDERLUST WINE
▽ RETURNING FROM a stint in New York, I knew the foreseeable future as a commercial banker in London was going to be difficult following a restructure that had been announced. I started to think about how I could entertain myself and that’s when I stumbled across wine school. I began studying for a Masters of Wine qualification, and surfaced a few months later with a distinction, which is when I started to consider whether I could turn this passion into a profession. I came up with the idea of importing and selling wine from small, artisanal vineyards that I had visited on my travels. Why couldn’t I buy the wine from producers I had visited in Slovenia, Hungary and Sonoma? My mission was to make the wine accessible and connect the producers to the people of London and beyond. Travelling has always been a passion, so Wanderlust Wine seemed a fitting name for my venture. Now people can order wine for next-day delivery, or for Londoners, in under an hour. Our collection of producers has expanded as demand for wine in London and the UK continues to grow year on year, and customers can meet the people who make the wine at our quarterly tasting events. ■
ESC APE ARTIS T
For more information, see wanderlustwine.co.uk
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VISUAL SPECTRUM BY JIM LAMBIE
CARIBBEAN DREAM ‘Sun Visor’ by Turner Prize-nominated Jim Lambie was inspired by a trip the Glaswegian-born artist took to Antigua, and is his interpretation of being ‘below another sky’. The work was one of the highlights at this year’s London Art Fair. The vibrant colours, red-billed tropicbird and bright white central sphere certainly conjure up visions that are distinctly more Caribbean than they are Celtic, and it’s impossible not to be drawn into the technicolour piece.
ART WORK by Jim Lambie, Sun Visor, 2014. Courtesy of Glasgow Print Studio
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O PI N I O N
STEPPING OUT OF THE SHADOW Should Labour triumph in the next election, John McDonnell is likely to become the new Chancellor. IAIN ANDERSON explains what that could mean for the City
THE PROSPECT OF a Labour government has been keeping City folks up at night since the Tories’ election disaster last year. Last summer, I started using a picture of Jeremy Corbyn standing on the steps of Downing Street in my conversations with some FTSE boards. The usual reaction was nervous laughter. I can tell you, they are not laughing so much now. While the Conservatives have moved into an average small lead over Labour recently, the numbers are too close for comfort and business leaders are listening more to Labour now than at any time since 2015. So what would a Chancellor McDonnell do for – or more likely to – the City. Let’s be clear up front: John McDonnell is no big friend of big finance. Since he entered the Commons in 1997 he has twice stood for the leadership of the Labour Party – in 2007 and 2010 – on an avowedly hard left programme. In those times he
first Labour budget would be to introduce a Financial Transaction Tax. McDonell prefers to name it the ‘Robin Hood Tax’. Specifically that would mean an extension of Stamp Duty towards a whole series of market transactions currently outside its scope. A bit like Bank of England independence on interest rate setting [which never in fact made it to the Blair/ Brown Labour 1997 manifesto] McDonnell remains intriguingly vague about the policy. But what we do know is that this stance is a significant change of heart from New Labour who previously said any FTT could only work on an international basis. Next up is hiking Corporation Tax to 26%. Now while Major, Thatcher and Blair never got Corporation tax below that level, it would mean BigCo paying the same level of corporate tax last seen in 2011. And if you get a big City bonus, Comrade John
❱❱ JOHN McDONNELL IS NO BIG FRIEND OF BIG FINANCE. HE HAS TWICE STOOD FOR LABOUR LEADERSHIP ON A HARD LEFT PROGRAMME
ILLUSTRATION by Sophie Melissa
was happy to be described as a ‘Marxist’. While McDonnell may resist such labels now, his whole political philosophy and career has been to rail against the excesses of ‘capital’. He thinks it is too short-termist in approach and that it has carried on regardless since the financial crisis of the late noughties. More than that, it has rewarded itself at the cost of magnifying austerity on public services. So perhaps the biggest policy impact Chancellor McDonnell would have in the
may be coming for you too, with higherrate tax at 50% set to start from £123k. Nationalisation will be back – and big time. Most voters tend to back Labour’s plans to renationalise railway operators, the Post Office, energy and water companies. You know it’s going to cost well over £120bn so the Government Debt Office is going to get rather busy. But hey, there might be work for some of the best brains in the City to help renationalise what they helped privatise
under Thatcher and Major and Blair. All McDonnell has said is that he would love those brains to help him and come to the aid of their country on a ‘pro bono’ basis. So what are you all waiting for? And there’s a lot more from Labour. The jewel in the crown is to create a National Infrastructure Bank and regional development banks to invest in the ‘long term‘ way that McDonnell thinks the City does not. Stand by for RBS to be broken up too into small regional entities. And a Labour ‘Glass-Steagall’ Act would enforce separation between wholesale and retail banking. Oh yes and expect City regulation to become a LOT more intrusive and HMRC to have a LOT more firepower on anything located in an offshore ‘paradise’. While Brexit has been preoccupying many City brains for the past two years, McDonnell gives everyone a whole bunch of new problems to think about. Last year, McDonnell let slip that Labour was planning for a run on the Pound as the immediate international markets reaction to the most socialist economic programme seen since 1945. Are you ready for Comrade John? ■
O PI N I O N
NEGATIVE FEEDBACK ALLY YATES , formerly a director of a 120-strong strategy practice at
PwC, explains four methods for disagreeing with colleagues constructively
“THAT’S NOT RIGHT”, “I don’t think so”, “no, we’re not doing that”. These are just a few phrases we hear in business conversations every day when people express their disagreement. Although there is nothing wrong with disagreeing, it does need to be done constructively, otherwise it can damage working relationships. There needs to be an equal balance of disagreeing and supporting verbal behaviours. In this context, disagreeing is defined as
ability to manage tensions as much as the desire to support one another. However, when disagreement isn’t expressed verbally it finds other ways of making itself heard. James, a senior manager in a finance business, told me this: “In a recent meeting one guy was wriggling in his seat, face screwed up as if trying to contain an outburst. It was clear he was uncomfortable about what was being said, but said nothing.” This form of non-verbal behaviour can be seen, by colleagues, as unskilful, devious or downright rude. Where some people are silent, others can be unhelpfully vocal. Labelling your disagreements can create further dissent. For example, ‘I disagree with that because…’ and then the speaker goes on to give the reasons, is a form of expression used by less behaviourally skilful people and drives up the ante in interactions. Once someone declares their objection, others will often be stunned into silence, retreat or react immediately. There’s a dearth of listening and an absence of exploring the various arguments, often leading to a communications shutdown. Between these extremes lie four more constructive alternatives: sharing feelings;
❱❱ THERE’S NOTHING WRONG WITH DISAGREEING, BUT IT NEEDS TO BE DONE CONSTRUCTIVELY TO AVOID DAMAGING WORKING RELATIONSHIPS
stating reasons before disagreeing; testing understanding; and building.
SHARING FEELINGS This is an expression of how you feel about what’s happening in any given interaction. For example, ‘I’m feeling uncomfortable
STATING REASONS BEFORE DISAGREEING Sharing your reasons for disagreeing before declaring your position allows people to hear your objections first. It gives them some missing information, a context, which can be used as a basis for exploration and which deepens understanding. For example, you find yourself in a discussion about F1 drivers and a colleague suggests that Michael Schumacher is the all-time best driver. Rather than label your disagreement you might say: ‘You can judge greatness in a number of ways, for example: number of race wins as a percentage of races entered, number of points achieved. Senna excels over Schumacher on these counts.’
TESTING UNDERSTANDING This seeks to test an assumption or check out whether a contribution has been understood. For example, Angela says: “Simon has been a consistently high performer across all aspects of his work.” Rather than directly disagree, Phil might say: “High across all three categories – profit, client satisfaction, and compliance?”. His questioning invites those present to reflect and consider the answer. It also drives up the level of clarity.
BUILDING Defined as ‘extending or developing a proposal made by another person’, building is uncommon because it requires us to listen to what’s being said. It also demands that we let go of our own sense of ‘rightness’. If you disagree with an idea, for example, you can use building to shape the suggestion in a different direction. In conclusion, build variety into your behavioural repertoire. And remember, the most skilled performers disagree and react equally. ■ For more information,see allyyates.com
ILLUSTRATION by Sophie Melissa
‘making a clear statement of disagreement with someone else’s statement, idea or approach, or raising objections.’ Supporting, on the other hand is ‘a clear statement of agreement or support for a person or their statement, opinion, idea or approach.’ The best relationships are built on the
that we’re focusing on profit and not compliance as well.’ (Versus ‘I disagree’.)
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SHARP NOTES MY WORLD MAN BAGS WATCHES OSCAR SEASON
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PHOTOGRAPH: Zara Martin by Jay McLaughlin; beauty by Paul Edmonds; watch by Longines; clothes by Oprent
We are Loake
One of our most experienced burnishers and hand-ﬁnishers, John’s parents, sister and brother-in-law also have a part in the Loake story.
Goodyear welted semi-brogue Oxford in brown burnished calf, made in England with combination rubber/leather soles for grip and longevity.
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SHARP NOTES MARC KINCHEN aka MK is an acclaimed American DJ and producer. Here he shares his essential tips to living life in the style-high club ON MY WRIST I go between an Apple watch and a Rolex. I’ve always loved the brand Rolex, and I bought it as a celebration after my Storm Queen remix went to number one in the UK. It’s a reminder to keep on it and work hard, because time flies.
IN MY SIGHTS I’ve recently been stopping into Supreme more – I love the red Supreme x Nike Air trainers, and I recently stocked up on a ton of Supreme hats, shirts and jackets. There’s also a few Chanel necklaces I’ve got my eye on.
IN MY WARDROBE A Stone Island blue winter peacoat. I have issues with length on some jackets since I’m tall, but it’s a perfect fit, and I love the fabric. My Daniel Patrick yellow track pants are a great statement piece and really comfortable – easy to wear on flights from gig to gig. My Calabasas Adidas sweatshirt is another one I like for flying – it’s comfortable but looks good. I’m also a fan of Balenciaga’s Speed trainers, they’re pretty cool and futuristic. It’s basically like walking on air.
ON MY TRAVELS A Louis Vuitton suitcase. It’s my bigger case, and definitely needed for family holidays. I
NICELY DECKED OUT: When he’s not playing records to big crowds or making music, DJ Marc Kinchen indulges his eye for style at the likes of Supreme and Stone Island. He’s also partial to a Rolex, and wouldn’t mind owning his own plane. Yep, us too.
also take a pair of Bose 35 headphone because you gotta have noise cancelling on flights. A Glamgo mud mask is another essential – with a crazy touring schedule, the only way to keep your skin looking good is to treat yourself. A recent discovery is the Anker PowerPort Solar Lite solar-powered charger. I’ve been trying it out and it’s worked pretty well so far. Finally, my iPhone X. It’s my favourite new toy, although I guess it’s not only a holiday item – I bring it pretty much everywhere with me now.
IN MY PAST
PHOTOGRAPH by Dan Wilton
I’m a fan of Balenciaga’s Speed trainers – they’re pretty cool and futuristic. It’s basically like walking on air squaremile.com
I lost my Roland Jupiter 8 keyboard. It was a $10,000 investment, and I have no idea where it went – or if I lost it on a plane or moving houses. That was a pretty massive downer.
to go to some of the art galleries, and I’m trying to make time while I’m in town to go to Basquait’s show at the Barbican.
IN MY FUTURE I’d love to score a film. Specifically the next Star Wars. Hey Disney, you reading this?
IN MY DREAMS I’d love a Bombardier Global 7000 aircraft. I travel so much internationally, it’d be nice to fly in my own plane. The new 7000 comes out later this year and looks incredible. A video arcade full of 1980s games would be great, too. I currently have a big vintage collection, but if I had an entire video arcade, I guess I wouldn’t need the plane anymore because I wouldn’t ever leave the house.
ON MY AGENDA Usually, when I’m out in London, I’m there for a show so I don’t get to relax. But I want
ON MY BUCKET LIST I need to make some time to find the bucket. ■
MY WORLD SIMON MOTTRAM
GOING FOR SPOKES
New major investors mean the future’s bright for high-end cycling wear brand Rapha, but it hasn’t always been easy. CEO and founder Simon Mottram reflects on the journey so far with JON HAWKINS
WANT CYCLING TO be the most popular sport
in the world,” says Simon Mottram, who founded cycling brand Rapha in 2004. “I want it to be ten pages at the back of the newspaper, not one column. I want millions of people to do it because it’s so brilliant. That’s the reason we do all this stuff.” The stuff in question – which includes making high-end cycling kit for amateurs and the pro peloton, opening clubhouses around the world, and creating luxury cycling trips – has made the London-based brand into one of the standout success stories in cycling, culminating in private equity firm RZC Investments taking a £200m majority stake in the business in August. We speak to Mottram about what RZC’s involvement means for the business, his early knockbacks, and why someone who loves another sport as much as he loves cycling could create a Rapha of their own.
ON BUILDING THE BRAND AROUND PASSION I couldn’t have started this brand, and this business couldn’t have been built, if it had been set up by someone with just a spreadsheet and a business plan. The whole thing about Rapha is that it’s based on that passion, and that’s why we’re very singular – we’re not going to do BMX, we’re not going to do skiing, we’re not going to do other sports because this is a thing we all love, and I spend all my time making sure everyone in the company loves it, too. Hopefully you feel it as you walk through the office – this isn’t just people following spreadsheets, there’s a reason behind it. That’s the thing we’ll fall back on if things get difficult or challenges
come along, and it’s the thing we’ll always rely on; that we really love what we do and we love this sport, and so do our customers. Everything else falls into place around that.
ON KEEPING FOCUS WHILE GROWING THE BRAND If what you do is always good quality and good value for money – not low priced, but good value – that’s a pretty essential building block. If you start fleecing people or letting your standards go because you’re getting bigger, then that’s a problem. It’s a classic brand management challenge: how do you retain your brand cachet while you reach more people? I love that challenge; I find it instinctive and natural in my head, though I’m sure my team – who have to implement it – find it harder. I think the momentum and excitement of growth is not to be sniffed at. It’s easy to think that staying the same size and keeping it small and perfect is nirvana, but I actually don’t think that’s right – you become stale and myopic and there’s real benefit that comes from the dynamism of growth.
ON GETTING THE MESSAGE ACROSS AT THE START I wrote the business plan in 2002, and between then and 2003 I was looking for funding. Back then, if you’d described cycling as this cool sport, immediately you’d lose 95% of people, because it wasn’t. But that’s exactly what I was saying, and I was also telling them we could reach cyclists and sell them something more expensive than anyone else, which lost a few more people. I’d explain that people would buy this stuff from catalogues or online – this was just after boo.com had crashed and internet retail hadn’t taken off yet – that it would be international, and that I had no experience of garments, e-commerce or retail. I was a brand guy. There were so many reasons people didn’t invest back then – the main one being that cycling just didn’t have the visibility. Most people said, “You sound like you’re very passionate, you’ve got some brand skills and you’re financially literate, so good for you – but it’s too risky.” And I don’t blame them at all. Now it’s different. “Oh, it’s a cycling business?” Tick. But now the challenge is whether it’s distinctive, and whether you can carve out a
reputation in a very congested market. I never really imagined the business would reach the scale it has now. I thought it might get to £5m-20m turnover, and that would have made it pretty significant, but the fact that we’re nearly four times that now is amazing. But actually, now the cycling boom has happened, we’ve got so much potential to go further.
ON WHY THERE IS A LOT OF OPPORTUNITY FOR OTHERS TO ‘DO A RAPHA’ I think cycling is a cut above other sports because it has this multifaceted appeal, and it’s relevant every day – most other sports are games, things you do as an abstract thing, whereas cycling can be an inherent and intrinsic part of your day. You don’t ski or climb mountains every day, and even if you play football every day it’s compartmentalised. The connection with cycling is much more profound, I think, but I do think you could do a Rapha in lots of other sports – someone could do it, someone who cared about the sport and surrounded themselves with people who cared too, and who really went for it. I just wouldn’t have the first idea how to do that.
ON WHAT THE £200M INVESTMENT BY RZC WILL MEAN FOR THE BRAND RZC is backing our five-year business plan, which includes a number of strategic initiatives and areas of growth. The backing doesn’t accelerate any of these, per se, but it does give us a lot more confidence that we can now build our business in the right way and pursue opportunities with the solid backing of our new shareholder. During the first ten years of Rapha, cash was often tight and we would have to work extremely hard to build enough ‘head room’ in the business. The business feels much more solid now. We were looking for investors who understood Rapha and who backed our strategy and plan. They needed to ‘get it’ and be willing to invest for the medium to long term, without pulling our business model apart or stretching our brand too far. The fact that the guys behind RZC are passionate cyclists was an added extra, and a very welcome one. ■ For more information, see rapha.cc
PHOTOGRAPH by George Marshall
WHEELS IN MOTION: Simon Mottram outside Raphaâ€™s flagship store in Soho. The company is set for further expansion since RZC Investments have come on board. [Opposite] Mottram lives the brand more than most CEOs.
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www.percystride.com Footwear Handmade in Britain
SUITS JOHN SMEDLEY
MODE IN BRITAIN
EAST MEETS WEST
It’s taken classic British label John Smedley more than 230 years to design its first suit, but it’s definitely been worth the wait
PHOTOGRAPH by Lukasz Suchorab
It may be a brand synonymous with classic, British-made menswear, but it might surprise you to learn that John Smedley – the company with the oldest manufacturing factory in the entire world – had never made a suit. Until now. And what a suit it is. While the fabric is classic Smedley Sea Island cotton, with a silk lining printed in Macclesfield, the design looks further afield for inspiration, namely Japan. The lapel-free jacket is inspired by the country’s traditional men’s Haorig, while the distinctive pattern references Japanese Katazome stencil dying.
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SUIT YOURSELF John Smedley’s new suit was launched at London Fashion Week Men’s in January as a celebration of the brand’s Jermyn Street store’s first anniversary. As well as the patterned version pictured here, there’s a plain suit available too, with the pattern knitted in, giving the appearance of a light engraving. Each suit is produced on a made-to-order basis, priced at £900 for the whole suit.
STYLE MAN BAGS
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Bags have become an integral part of the modern man’s wardrobe, and there are more fashionforward options than ever, says Mr Porter’s CHRIS ELVIDGE
For more info, see mrporter.com
PHOTOGRAPH by Mark Sanders for Mr Porter
HEN IT COMES to dressing with style, the modern gent has a far greater sartorial arsenal at his disposal than ever before – and nowhere is this more evident than in the rapidly expanding market for men’s bags. There was a time not too long ago when it was deemed inappropriate for a man to carry his belongings in anything other than a briefcase. Such opinions are now laughably outdated. Perhaps it’s down to men coming to terms with the need for a practical solution to the very real problem of how to transport more than just their keys, wallet and phone. It’s clear the bag is now not only an accepted part of the male wardrobe, it’s an essential one. Whether or not you still associate the backpack with your school days, it has now broken into high fashion, being an element of many contemporary designer collections – find refined examples from brands such as Berluti. The tote bag has had a bit of a renaissance in a similar way. Gone are the days of them being scruffy, cotton things that hang on the back of your door. Brands such as Saint Laurent make them in full-grain leather, and they are roomy enough for your MacBook. Just as traditional work attire has become more relaxed over the years, so has the shape of the international symbol of the working world: the briefcase. This slightly softer silhouette goes with the clean lines of your suit and doesn’t damage the shoulder construction like it would if wearing a backpack. Shown here is a classic briefcase from Prada. Keys, wallets, smartphones and the various other bits and pieces we carry around with us can often ruin a look. Demonstrate how far men have come by accepting the practical advantages of a folio, which offers the ideal alternative to a half-full backpack. ■
GET THE LOOK: Prada briefcase, £1,500; Kingsman POW checked blazer, £995; Kingsman POW checked trousers, £395; Charvet white slimfit cotton oxford shirt, £375; John Lobb fullgrain leather monk strap shoes, £850; Drake’s silk grenadine tie, £125.
Records show an order of 15,000 Caliber 59 waterproof wrist watches was delivered to the Ministry of Defence in the Autumn of 1944 by Vertex. It is not known how many made it back home after hostilities ceased in 1945, but it is unlikely all of them were dutifully returned to the Quartermaster. After less than 12 months in the field, many of the ones that were returned were sold on in perfect working order to friendly forces. Vertex Caliber 59s bearing the mark of The Pakistani Military, The Dutch and the Indonesian Army have all turned up at auction over the years. Now, 73 years after the last Caliber 59 left our factory, the chances of finding a mint condition, all original example are slim at best. And in any event, as the
YOU COULD SPEND A LIFETIME LOOKING FOR AN ORIGINAL VERTEX CALIBER 59. 2017
THE M100 REISSUE WONâ€™T BE NEARLY AS EASY TO COME BY. famous broad arrow symbol denotes, they remain the property of the Crown and should rightfully be returned forthwith. Few collectors of the so called 'Dirty Dozenâ€™ (all 12 variations on the British Army issued watches made by Vertex and 11 other prestigious watchmakers of the time) can boast a full set. There are thought to be no more than 20 complete collections in the world. Just like the Cal 59, its 2017 successor, the M100, cannot simply be bought. Harking back to a time when character was more important than capital, it is only available via referral from a current M100 owner. And Vertex M100 owners are very rare indeed. Find out about the Vertex story and the M100 at Vertex-watches.com
SHOPPING THE ROYAL EXCHANGE
SHOPPING BAG THE ROYAL EXCHANGE, LONDON, EC3V 3DG THEROYALEXCHANGE.CO.UK
Fashion trends are temporary, but style is permanent. Head over to The Royal Exchange to fill your wardrobe with these timeless classics
ECONOMY OF MOVEMENT: Beneath the handsome facade, Omega’s sensational in-house Master Co-Axial movement will steal the attention of watch lovers. It has a 55-hour power reserve but, more importantly, it’s a certified Master Chronometer approved by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS) – that’s a whole lot of watch for £3,600.
ORLEBAR BROWN Quilted jackets benefit from incredible warmth and a perennially stylish silhouette. This Orlebar Brown Newland jacket is no exception, and features a unique zigzag pattern to boot. 14 Royal Exchange, EC3V 3LT
TATEOSSIAN The Tryptich silver bracelet features an Italian leather strap, and a quirky clasp comprising three gears made of rhodium, rose gold and black rhodium plating. It’s an elegant addition to any wrist. 1-4 Royal Exchange, EC3V 3LL
ALL IN GOOD TIME More than a decade after the Railmaster slipped off its roster, Omega has revamped its utilitarian favourite for a new generation. As time-only watches go, this 40mm piece features some nice touches – the vertically brushed steel dial, subtly curved lugs and herringbone strap, for instance. It’s simple, but oh-so effective. Omega, 1 Royal Exchange, EC3V 3LL
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SMYTHSON Smythson’s leather goods are unrivalled for their quality of craftsmanship. Take this Panama Briefcase: made in Italy from cross-grain calf leather, it’s the bag that all bags aspire to be. 7 Royal Exchange, EC3V 3LL
A U N I Q U E LY CALMING AIRPORT EXPERIENCE
Heathrow VIP is the most luxurious way to travel through Heathrow. From picking you up in our 7 series BMW to serving you the finest of fine dining from our exclusive Jason Atherton menu, your journey is relaxed and stress-free. When it’s time to fly, our chauffeur drives you from the calm of your private suite to your waiting aircraft. Heathrow VIP’s attention to detail and unrivalled service makes us the only way to travel through the UK’s busiest airport. Visit www.heathrowvip.com or call +44 (0) 20 8757 2227
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MORE IS MORE: [this image] Bovet’s 1822 Virtuoso VII Retrograde isn’t interested in simplicity – to match its complex workings the design is intricate and impressive; [right] in contrast, GlashÜtte’s Original Senator Excellence has paredback dial design.
WATCHES PERPETUAL CALENDARS
OF INFINITE APPEAL
Complex, clever and costly, there’s no questioning the popularity of perpetual calendar watches, but it can be tricky displaying so much information successfully. ADRIAN HAILWOOD picks five new models that get it right 044
EBRUARY IS THAT one occasion in the year
when perpetual calendar owners get to show off where all that extra cash went. While possessors of all other date and calendar watches, even annual calendars, are poking recessed buttons or fiddling with crown positions, the wearer of a perpetual calendar could host an end-of-month midnight salon to allow friends to witness the effortless mechanical transition between February and March. (Admittedly, he would first need to find friends to invite to said soiree.) Complex and cleverly programmed the perpetual may be, but their dials have to offer up a vast array of information which can make legibility a challenge. How do five of the latest releases manage this task?
PATEK PHILIPPE PERPETUAL CALENDAR REF. 5320. Patek Philippe has followed the controversial, but successful, vintage-inspired Calatrava Pilot Travel Time with another gem. It is notable that this watch follows a traditional layout, sports a pair of ‘syringe’ hands usually found on watches from the 1930s and 1940s and yet feels very modern. Perhaps it is the lack of faux-aged lume that keeps it up-to-date and while the dial’s cream tone may hint at age, it also serves as a perfect backdrop for the bright-white Superluminova hands and numerals. The classic perpetual layout in front of the tried and tested calibre 324 has served Patek well for decades and taking the case size up to 40mm allows a little more space to add in a day/night indicator and leap-year counter.
Bovet’s Virtuoso VII is such a visual treat that it makes the reading of the time and date an indulgent experience Glashütte Original at 43mm, this dial appears jammed full of detail featuring three subdials, with all of them performing double duty, along with a double aperture date below 12 o’clock. The subdials are large, aiding legibility, but this is at the expense of the hour markers which are squeezed almost out of existence. The lack of a six can be forgiven as it is replaced with not just a simple moon phase indicator but an astronomical one that shows the position of the moon in the sky alongside actual constellations.
IWC AQUATIMER PERPETUAL CALENDAR DIGITAL DATE-MONTH EDITION ‘50 YEARS AQUATIMER’ To celebrate 50 years of the Aquatimer, IWC hasn’t gone back to the source, re-interpreting a 1960s classic; instead it is referencing an early 1980s model, the Porsche Design Ocean 2000, that looks as startlingly modern today as it did at launch. The Ocean 2000 was the first all-titanium wristwatch and the anniversary
model also utilises an innovative case material – Ceratanium, a combination of titanium and ceramic. The case diameter is a hulking 49mm but unlike the other watches on the list, the IWC must fit the calendar within a ‘Safedive’ bezel with elapsed time indicator so it was never going to be small. Continuing the modern theme, both the date and month displays are digital and as a moon phase indicator might seem anachronistic at 12 we have a chronograph totaliser.
BOVET 1822 VIRTUOSO VII RETROGRADE PERPETUAL CALENDAR While some watch manufacturers aim for simplicity on their dials to allow rapid and accurate assimilation of information, Bovet takes a different approach. The Virtuoso VII is such a visual treat that you cannot help but be drawn into it, making the reading of the time and date an indulgent experience. Indeed, there is a danger you could be so distracted by all this marvellous detail that you forget why you looked at it in the first place. Hours and minutes are displayed in a classical style against a lacquered dial while the calendar appears with surprising clarity on transparent discs, suspended above the exposed movement. If all that information becomes overwhelming, flip the watch over to the second face which gives just hours, minutes, seconds and power reserve. ■
GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL SENATOR EXCELLENCE PERPETUAL CALENDAR
PHOTOGRAPH (Jaeger LeCoultre) by René Gaens
Saxon watches always seem to handle their dial space so well and this GO perpetual calendar is no different. At 42mm there is a lot of real estate to work with and the paredback nature of the dial features enhances this. The hands are slender blued steel and the hour markers, other than the 12 and six are slim black batons. The month, day and date windows are more spread out than the Patek Philippe which, in tandem with a panorama date display is appreciated by ageing eyes. Also welcome is the fact that all this elegance sits on top of the new high-beat movement with 100-hour power reserve and can be purchased wrapped in a stainless-steel case making it all the more affordable.
CHOPARD L.U.C LUNAR ONE PLATINUM LTD EDITION First introduced in 2005, the Lunar One is not a new watch for Chopard, but 2017 saw 100 of them receive a new platinum jacket and stunning blue face. Although larger than the
WATCHES BAMFORD WATCH DEPARTMENT
PAINT IT BLACK The Bamford Watch Department is the watch world’s self-appointed master of the dark arts. Tag Heuer is the latest brand to fall under its spell
MAN OF THE HEUER George Bamford and Bamford Watch Department’s first collaboration with Tag Heuer includes a capsule collection of three watches. Our pick of the bunch is the panda-dialed Autavia chronograph. As part of the customisation process you can choose from various case and bracelet coatings, change the colours of the dial, hands, and accents, as well as choosing your strap.
THE NEW CUSTOM
GET YOURS NOW:
Prices for the Tag Heuer x BWD Autavia start at £7,000 for the base model; see more info at
PHOTOGRAPH by publinc larit em potinium vid ces blah
Established in 2004, Bamford Watch Department (BWD) has been customising watches from Rolex, Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe for years, but never with official backing from the watchmakers. However, last year this all changed when the London outfit was authorised to customise watches from Tag Heuer, Zenith, and Bulgari.
IF YOU JUST EXPECT A LUXURY HOTEL DONâ€™T COME
Th up e iro on n a us ge . H is ere ov a r e e r. T the he wa days tch of bra DL nd C, c s e er mb am rac ic a ing nd thi ‘Ma s n gi ew c G ma old ter ’ ar ial e n wo ow rld
THE WATCHES: [from left to right] Panerai Radiomir 1940 3 Days Ceramica, £9,600, panerai.com; Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Chronograph Ceramic £13,300, jaegerlecoultre.com; Bremont Alt1-B, £4,495, bremont.com
PHOTOGRAPH by David Harrison
MATERIAL MATTERS: Diamond-like carbon (DLC) is a relatively new technique in the watch world whereby a small layer of metal compound is bound to the base metal of a watch case. The result is timepieces like the Bremont Alt1-B: a watch completely resistant to scratches.
BREITLING: Avenger Hurricane 45 £6,680, breitling.com MATERIAL MATTERS: The Avenger Hurricane is made out of Breitling’s proprietary lightweight high-tech polymer, ‘Breitlight’. As light as carbon fibre, the composite is also naturally anti-magnetic, hypoallergenic, and largely impervious to corrosion or scratches. Simply put, this watch brings a whole new meaning to ‘built to last’.
OMEGA: Seamaster Planet Ocean “Deep Black”, £8,320, omegawatches.com MATERIAL MATTERS: Ceramic is lightweight, durable, scratch proof and can withstand any weather condition, including being exposed for long periods to saltwater, so it’s no surprise it’s found on the Panerai, JaegerLeCoultre and Omega [pictured] in our shoot.
HUBLOT: Big Bang Meca-10 Full Magic Gold, £28,700, hublot.com MATERIAL MATTERS: Unique to Hublot, the proprietary material ‘Magic Gold’ is the world’s first and only 18-carat scratch-proof gold alloy – and the first creation of the Hublot Metallurgy Department. It produces watches like the remarkably tough Meca-10 Full Magic Gold.
ZENITH: Chronomaster El Primero Range Rover Special Edition, ÂŁ7,200, zenith-watches.com MATERIAL MATTERS: Ceramic [mentioned on the last page] can also be developed with a stronger material, like aluminium in this Zenithâ€™s case, for added durability.
STYLE THE OSCARS
THE ACADEMY RULES
Dressing for awards season shouldn’t be too hard. But on the off-chance any Oscar nominees are reading, JESSICA PHILLIPS has some sage words. For the rest of us, it’s useful advice for the next industry shindig
DO: LEARN FROM THE GREATS When it comes to dressing for awards season, it’s always wise to take style cues from one of Hollywood’s best dressed men. No, not Justin, Zac or Ryan. They were merely a twinkle in their fathers’ eyes when the original 1970s style icon made his sartorial footprint in corduroy suits, washed denim jackets and blend sweaters. Yes, we’re talking about pistol-wielding, mob-conning Robert Redford. Forget the Oscar for directing Ordinary People, 1981 was the year he won some serious style points in a timeless satin lapel dinner jacket, buttonless dress shirt, black bow tie and the granddaddy of sweep fringes.
DRESSED FOR SUCCESS: [this image] Robert Redford was a winner not only in the 1981 awards, but in the style stakes, too; [opposite, clockwise from top right] Steve-O eschewed the concept of clothing entirely at 2006’s ceremony; Jared Leto embraces his inner Benny Andersson in 2015; Pharrell’s shorts came up, er, a bit short.
DON’T: FORGET TO PURCHASE THE BOTTOM HALF OF YOUR SUIT
PHOTOGRAPHS by (Redford) Bettmann; (Pharrell) Dan MacMedan; (Steve O) Bob Berg; (Leto) Jon Kopaloff; all Getty images
For Pharrell Williams, 2014 was looking pretty good. He’d won four Grammys, given a stellar closing performance at the Brits, and then this happened: he turned up to the Oscars with half his trousers missing. Just when we thought nothing could top the returning Mountie hat saga, his Lanvin shorts marked a new sartorial misfire. We’re not saying Mr Williams missed out on the Best Original Song gong for giving his kneecaps more airtime than Anne Hathaway in Le Mis, but…
DO: VENTURE TO THE DARK SIDE According to the fashion rule book, Moonlight’s Mahershala Ali should have joined Sonny Bono (circa 1968) in the ‘send over a stylist’ category. But at the 2017 Oscars he rocked all black in a Zegna Couture tux with a level of sophistication unseen since Paul Newman put on his fist rollneck. He wore a black shirt, black bow tie and black
Robert Redford won serious style points in 1981 with a onebutton, V-shaped jacket and the granddaddy of sweep fringes 054
shoes, accessorised with a vintage-inspired monochrome pocket square. As the first Muslim actor to win an Oscar, we should have known if anyone was going to break with convention and look so slick in the process, it was going to be this guy.
DON’T: WEAR A PASTEL SUIT If Jared Leto can’t pull it off, you should probably give it a miss. And by ‘it’, we mean the 1970s-influenced lilac tuxedo he wore in 2015. Yes, it might have been designed by Givenchy, but that doesn’t stop the Dallas Buyers’ Club actor from looking like the sartorially challenged nephew of Harry Dune. Jared, we get it, sometimes you need a night off from being the rock’n’roll sex symbol with the tattooed torso and perfectly tousled Jesus hair. But next time, instead of igniting a flowerpower renaissance on the red carpet, maybe consider doing it at an ABBA tribute night?
DO: INVEST IN A VEST
Wear silk, velvet, suede, a one button, a peak lapel, a top hat… But for the love of Vogue, wear something wasn’t to be for Redmayne – Leonardo DiCaprio hugging the inside of a horse’s intestine put paid to that – he proved that velvet is as much at home on the back of a British institution-in-the-making as it is at the Playboy Mansion. Bravo, sir.
DO: GATSBY YOUR GETUP Think of the 1920s and flapper girls and Fitzgerald come to mind. The modern dinner jacket marked freedom from tall wing collars and cravats, and elevated even the most
ordinary Joe into a Jay. So slick back that fringe, embrace a little Downton dress-up, fill that glass with a Gin Rickey – and count yourselves lucky that you can now analyse bid prices free from the fear of being crucified by your frock coat.
DON’T: GET NAKED Unless featuring on TMZ’s homepage or oneupping Janet Jackson is the desired outcome, keeping your, er, statue out of view of the Academy, the media and your mum might be something to consider. Jackass star Steve-O missed the memo in 2006, and walked the red carpet wearing only his infamous tattoos, which included a portrait of himself and the words ‘your name’ on his right buttock (and people say Tinder killed romance). So wear silk, velvet, suede, a one button, a peak lapel, a top hat. Hell, give Anna Wintour something to write about and wear white socks. But for the love of Vogue, wear something. ■ See more on squaremile.com
No, we don’t mean the kind you buy your Grandad for Christmas. We’re talking about a waistcoat, here – the ‘three’ in three-piece. Worn correctly, a waistcoat has the power to lift and control your midsection, better define your torso and create the illusion of a slimmer silhouette. If you’re really lucky you might even resemble Hugh Jackman in the custommade Burberry three-piece he wore to host the 2009 Oscars. Actor, singer, dancer, ‘sexiest man alive’ – however you may know him, add ‘expert wearer of the waistcoat’ to the list.
DON’T: DRESS LIKE A HISTORY TEACHER As the most nominated black actor in Oscar history, Denzel Washington is no stranger to awards season. Though you’d never guess so from his wardrobe choices. To be fair, he looked pretty sharp at the 2002 ceremony – and 2010 wasn’t a bad year, either. But then 2013 happened. Attending the Nominees Luncheon as a Best Actor contender for Flight, he paired a classic dad suit with oversized trousers which seemed to be concealing a mild case of rickets. The colour was bad, the tailoring was even worse, and his pained expression suggested that he knew it.
DO: BE A VISION IN VELVET Hugh Hefner gave velvet something of a bad name. But trust us, if it’s silky and made by Alexander McQueen, then you ought to be wearing it. You only need to take a look at the immaculately tailored skinny-fit tuxedo that Eddie Redmayne wore to the 2016 Academy Awards to convert to the smooth side. Though winning back-to-back Best Actor awards
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THE LOOK: Photography by Jay McLaughlin, jaymclaughlin.co.uk; beauty by Paul Edmonds, pauledmonds.com; watch by Longines, longines.com; clothes by Oprent, oprent.com
ONE TO WATCH
Zara Martin is best-known as a DJ and model, but the lifelong Londoner has only just begun. Here, she reveals her big plans for the future
ESIGNER, DJ, MODEL, presenter, influencer:
Zara Martin is the epitome of the millennial trendsetter. Whether she’s in front of the camera or behind the decks at a fashion-show afterparty, she is unerringly and unquestionably cool. Her glitzy headphone collection for Skinnydip London was a huge success – and has led to larger aspirations to build her own business.
wearing blue lipstick, lying in a bathtub fully clothed or hissing into the camera like a snake seems to become just another day at the office.
ANY EMBARRASSING MOMENTS ON TV? David Guetta wrote his name down my leg in permanent marker during a live broadcast from Vegas. On the embarrassment spectrum, walking around with David Guetta’s name on your leg is pretty high up there.
HOW DID YOU GET INTO DJING? I was asked to DJ at a London Fashion Week show afterparty; it seems a hundred years ago now. I took the job before I actually knew how to DJ. At the time, I was more focused on TV presenting. So I basically harassed my very talented DJ mate to teach me/stand in the booth with me. I was so scared at first. It’s funny how what I looked at then as a side job has since become my main focus.
YOU’VE ALREADY DESIGNED HEADPHONES AND JEWELLERY – WHAT’S NEXT?
WHAT WAS YOUR BEST GIG?
I love the Royal Albert Hall – I’ve seen countless performances there, from Tony Bennett to Cirque Du Soleil, and I even sang on stage there with my school choir when I was 11. If you mean out-out, I used to go to the Groucho Club a lot – although, that place has a habit of erasing memories.
It was in Berlin – the techno capital of the world. I went on and played a hip-hop set after Swedish House Mafia had been on. Everyone in the club was slightly confused at first, but it ended up being the best night.
WHAT DO YOU THINK THE REASON IS THAT THERE AREN’T MORE FAMOUS FEMALE DJS? There are actually lots of well-known female DJs, but apparently you’re only classified as a ‘famous’ one if you produce a track with a Justin Bieber vocal on it.
WHAT’S THE STRANGEST THING YOU’VE BEEN ASKED TO DO WHEN MODELLING? It’s all pretty strange, to be honest. However,
I want to expand the headphones into a full-on audio line – I think there is a gap in the market for beautifully designed, moderately priced unisex headphones and speakers, which I would like to fill.
WHERE’S YOUR FAVOURITE PLACE TO GO OUT AND LET YOUR HAIR DOWN IN THE CAPITAL?
YOU HAVE BRITISH, INDIAN AND ITALIAN HERITAGE – WHERE’S YOUR FAVOURITE PLACE TO VISIT IN EACH COUNTRY? London – my home and birthplace – is the best city in the world. Udaipur in Rajasthan, India is just breathtaking. And Ravello on the Amalfi Coast in Italy is where I got married.
WHAT’S YOUR NEXT CHALLENGE? To build a sustainable business and start a family. I’ve got quite a lot to do.
WHAT DO YOU SPEND YOUR MONEY ON?
PHOTOGRAPH by George Marshall
I think there’s a gap in the market for beautiful, moderately priced unisex headphones and speakers, which I would like to fill squaremile.com
I spend it mainly on food, cabs and collecting shoes. So I should probably rethink my investment strategy ASAP.
WHAT HIDDEN TALENTS DO YOU HAVE? I don’t know if it’s classified as a talent but people get weirded out when I tell them I have an economics degree. ■ Follow Zara on Instagram and Twitter: @zaramartin
WOLF1834.CO.UK WATCH WINDERS
GOING BESPOKE LONDON FASHION WEEK MEN’S CRAIG DAVID LAURA CRANE FRANK LAMPARD
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PAUSE AND REFLECT . 086
PHOTOGRAPH: US Marine Lcpl. Damon ‘Commie’ Connell (age 20) after a patrol in Garmsir District, Helmand Province, Afghanistan at Forward Operating Base Apache North. By Louie Palu/ZUMA Press from War Is Only Half The Story, The Aftermath Project & Dewi Lewis Publishing.
I DID IT MY WAY Hand-cut suits with secret pockets, one-off luxury cars that cost millions, and yachts more audacious than your wildest nautical dreamsâ€¦ BEN WINSTANLEY discovers why the time is now to go big on bespoke
PHOTOGRAPH: Gieves & Hawkes Bespoke by Bruno Ehrs
LEXA, DOES MY bum look big in this?”
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You ask a small camera-equipped smart device… It does, as it happens (sorry), but like a polite little piece of technology Amazon’s new Echo Look dodges the question by offering you AI-powered style tips instead. The device takes a picture of your current outfit and then uses Cloud-based machine learning to consume current fashion trends and provide you with up-to-the-minute style tips. Heck, it’ll buy you a new outfit there and then if you want it to. You’ll be dressing like David Beckham before Becks’ personal shopper has stepped off the flight from Milan. For US customers, and soon those in the UK, this bizarre future is very much a present-day scenario: artificial intelligence is here to stay, and before long it will have permeated every aspect of life as we know it, from replacing groceries to populating our wardrobes. Cyberdyne Systems is online, and
it’s all so… uninspiring. Whatever way you slice it, AI is taking away our ability to think for ourselves – to make good and bad decisions, and most importantly be impulsive. It may be smart tech, but it’s dumbing us down. It should be no surprise, then, that as technology proliferates into every commercial space, its antagonist trend rises to meet it. If AI is wrestling purchasing control away from the consumer, the wonderful world of bespoke is placing the power firmly back in our hands. At its heart, it relies on a human, interactive and highly personal experience that even the most intuitive AI is yet to understand. Before you conjure images of made-tomeasure suits and initialled luggage tags, let’s be clear that the custom-built world this article inhabits is several gear shifts beyond giving your lifestyle a personalised touch. No, this is about catering to your every whim and ➤
TOUCHING CLOTH: The word ‘bespoke’ comes from a tailoring term for when cloth was said to ‘be spoken for’. You can still see reams of cloth on show at Savile Row tailors such as Gieves & Hawkes. gievesandhawkes.com
➤ fancy, or at the very least creating something unique only to you. The robots are coming, but they’ll never take our identity.
TAILORING The nerve centre of the bespoke emergence is, unsurprisingly, high-end tailoring. Its predilection with craft and customisation makes it a perfect fit (pun intended) for those brands able to offer a unique customer service, but there’s also a fascinating historical precedent. The term bespoke was born out of the tailoring world in the 17th century when a customer’s chosen cloth was said to “be spoken for”. Indeed, pop your head into any of Savile Row’s esteemed institutions today and you’ll still find reams of cloth ready for the snip of a head cutter’s scissors at a client’s behest. The storefronts may be more elegant these days, but the age-old tradition of constructing a suit to the customer’s tastes is the earliest example of
‘bespoking’ – and is once again returning to the wishlists of style-conscious dressers. In the cutting rooms beneath No 1 Savile Row, you’ll find Gieves & Hawkes’ Davide Taub hard at work. As head of bespoke for one of the most respected Savile Row tailors – Gieves & Hawkes were separately founded in 1784 (Gieves) and 1771 (Hawkes) before joining sartorial forces in 1974 – when he says that bespoke is back in business, we listen: “Bespoke tailoring is on a revival, as a younger group of customers, who may not have had first-hand knowledge of tailoring because their fathers and grandfathers opted for readyto-wear in the late 1970s and 1980s, have found out the values of bespoke for themselves.” As the tailor mentions, a new crop of designer labels brought an influx of ready-towear and made-to-measure suiting to London’s famed Mayfair row over the last four decades. Their cheaper production methods may keep
the price tag down, but they don’t offer the charm or individual appeal of a bespoke suit. Taub describes a made-to-measure suit as “like buying a ready-to-wear suit, but having alterations made before it’s manufactured” – in short, a suit that fits you better, without much else to shout about. By contrast, a bespoke suit is “much more refined in terms of individuality of style, fit, comfort, and quality of make”. But it’s more than that. Beyond the clear benefits of multiple fittings (sometimes as many as six) and a higher overall quality, there’s something very profound about putting on a suit bespoke to you alone. “The attention to detail, because you see the person who is making your garments, rather than a salesman, means as a customer you are far more invested in the final suit. Almost as an extension of yourself,” Taub explains. “A lot more time is taken in cutting, fitting and sewing the suit by hand, and so the customer’s extra investment is rewarded with a suit that has more character and longevity.” The character element is where master cutters get to have their fun. There are some 220 components that make up the average bespoke suit – and, whether its requesting the Gieves & Hawkes house style of a high arm hole and a roped shoulder, synonymous with its military roots, or subtly weaving “FUCK YOU” into the pinstripe of a three-piece suit a la Conor McGregor (by way of American tailor David August), the possibilities are veritably limitless. Suffice to say, speak to anyone along Savile Row and you’ll discover a host of requests from the practical to the bizarre. Patrick Grant, creative director at Norton & Sons, mentioned the art of the secret pocket in an interview with square mile last year: “Anything can be concealed with good tailoring. We’re asked to conceal all sorts of things – large billfold wallets, flasks, and other things that I won’t talk about… But the truth is you can work around anything. It’s a tailor’s calling card.” For his part, Davide Taub has worked cigar cutters and penknife pockets into his elegant designs, but the most memorable request came from a customer who asked for every single
The historic tradition of constructing a custommade suit is the earliest example of ‘bespoking’ squaremile.com
pocket in his suit to be the exact size of an unfolded £50 note. We don’t get it either, but that’s exactly the point: it’s not about us, it’s about the individual the suit is for.
STYLE Now your suit is up to scratch, it’s time to ensure the rest of your outfit is sufficiently bespoke – and that starts by finding a shirt to match that fine tailoring. As any besuited gent is aware, finding the perfect-fitting shirt is no small miracle: starting from the collar, you should be able to slide two fingers in when buttoned to the top without difficulty; the shoulder seam should meet at the corner of your shoulder bone; arm holes must be high enough without causing restricted motion; the sleeve should neither be too tight or open (enough for natural motion); at the torso, there needs to be no more than four inches” of fabric when pulled lightly away from the body; and, finally, the sleeve should end where your palm meets your wrist (approximately one inch beyond your wrist bone). If this all sounds needlessly complicated, just imagine how difficult it is to find an off-the-rack
As any besuited gent is well aware, finding the perfect-fitting shirt is no small miracle shirt that conforms to your body type. Indeed, one Savile Row tailor (who we won’t name, for obvious reasons) told us they wouldn’t touch bespoke shirtmaking because the process is so much harder than suitmaking. That’s why the master shirtmakers at Turnbull & Asser are seeing so many turn to its bespoke service. At your consultation, a tailor will take 18 separate measurements, including taking into account your posture and any other special requirements, before the next step of choosing from more than 1,000 fabrics, 25 collar and cuff options, 20 monogram styles and various collar linings. While choice is down to personal taste,
each shirt cloth is guaranteed to be hand-cut and brought together by hand on a sewing machine by Turnbull & Asser’s seamstresses in its Gloucester workshop. The process is finalised with a trialling period where you have to wear and launder a sample shirt (also made to your spec) three times to allow for inevitable fabric shrinkage, and to ensure the best fit possible on the finished product. Elsewhere in the world of fashion, the old adage, “you can judge a man by his shoes” goes a long way to explaining why bespoke services offered by the likes of Tim Little (founder and creative director of Grenson Shoes) and historic shoemaker John Lobb have ballooned in popularity over the last few years. Each offer a similar fully handmade bespoke service, which starts by measuring various dimensions of your feet. But this is not the like the machine you used to step on at Clarkes when it was time to buy your new school shoes – no, this service carefully measures the dimensions of each foot, as well as recording the individual characteristics for optimal fit. Craftsmen will then make unique ➤
HIGH ROLLER: The Rolls-Royce Sweptail is not only one of the latest examples of bespoke coach building, but also the most expensive new car in history, costing a reported $12.8m. rolls-royce.com
PHOTOGRAPH (Gieves) by Bruno Ehrs; (Rolls-Royce) James Lipman
OWN THE OCEAN: Sailing Yacht A (or A for short) is the £360m vision of world-famous French designer Philippe Starck. Each of its three mammoth masts is taller than Big Ben.
Bespoke cars date back to the coachbuilders of the 1900s, including the iconic Rolls-Royce 064
18th-century technique where each piece of leather is expertly cut and fitted to form a unique motif), this area of fashion welcomes a client’s every whim with open arms. Founded in 1849, Parisian bag maker Moynat is renowned for its luxury leather bags and wooden trunks. From the beginning, Moynat painted a client’s initials and family crests onto the side of its trunks, with exclusive hand-painted designs (still available via special order to this day) but it also specialises in the creation of unique trunks and bags for any particular fancy. Take the Champagne Trunk designed for Krug: the dark cherry wood trunk mimics the curves of a bottle, while a blush suede interior houses a magnum of Krug Grande Cuvée. Other unique trunks have included an artist’s trunk complete with a collapsible easel, and a fully functional, portable kitchen range. Moynat’s small team of artisans creates all bespoke orders in its workshop, where wooden frames are individually built, leather is tanned to the client’s specifications, and even small details like hinges and latches are created in house. Some commissions can take as much as a year to come to fruition, but for creations as unique as this, it’s more than worth the wait.
CARS Trunk now ordered, it’s time to find a car you can put it in and hit the road. Bespoke cars date back to the coachbuilders of the early 1900s when automobiles (and carriages) were crafted almost entirely by hand. Chief among these early forerunners was, of course, RollsRoyce – and the world-renowned brand is still arguably the producer of the most luxurious cars on the road today. Clocking in at a reported $12.8m, the Sweptail is not only a shining example of what Rolls-Royce’s bespoke department is capable of, but it’s also the most expensive new car ever produced. Premiered in 2017, the coachbuilt two seater coupé is the only Roller of its kind, with a strikingly unique design created in tandem with the client’s wishes. The rear taper of the Sweptail pays homage to the world of racing yachts, shaping a completely new perception of a dramatic RollsRoyce coupé. Inside, the Sweptail consists of an exotic wood interior, a panoramic glass skylight and a special compartment for the owner’s briefcase. For a touch of Bond, the owner also requested that a bottle of champagne and two crystal glasses were placed underneath the arm rest – available at
PHOTOGRAPH (SAILING YACHT A) by Peter Seyfferth/FinePhotoArt.org/TheYachtPhoto.com
➤ wooden lasts for both your feet before creating shoes to your exact specification. This is, of course, before you take into account the various materials, styles and flourishes that make your shoes your own. The truth is, though, the price you pay (approximately £2,550 for Tim Little and £4,170 for John Lobb) relates to the fine craft of building the perfect pair of shoes over a 10 to 12-week process. Feet may be an uncomfortable subject for many of us, but housed inside one of these creations, they become a source of great pride. The accessories world is, of course, primed for bespoking. Whether it’s a customised Bamford watch [see p.46 for more] or a leather bag featuring the art of leather marquetry (an
the touch of a button. In the words of Giles Taylor, director of design at Rolls-Royce Motor Cars, “Sweptail is the automotive equivalent of haute couture”. We’d be inclined to agree. While Rolls-Royce is the most iconic coachbuilder, Bentley’s Mulliner division is also creating cars where anything is possible. Mulliner’s team of craftspeople and coachbuilders have fulfilled simple requests like painting one female client’s car the same colour as her favourite nail varnish, to completely bespoking a Mulsanne limousine. The latter, the Mulsanne Grand Limousine by Mulliner, is the world’s longest ‘original equipment manufacturer’ (OEM) limousine, and saw the coachbuilders stretch a standard Mulsanne by one metre to create the 6.5m vehicle and raise the roof by 79mm. The result was a sumptuous private jet-inspired interior where the four-seat cabin is arranged with all four seats facing one another. Suffice to say, among those for whom money is no object, the options are endless.
GUNS Stepping into Audley House is to come into contact with one of the most prestigious bespoke experiences available today. When James Purdey & Sons, creator of some of the world’s finest shotguns and rifles, relocated to the grand Mayfair building in 1883, it wasn’t to know that more than a hundred years later the world’s hunters and crack shots would still flood to its gun shop, but that is testament to the quality of this bespoke experience. Much like Savile Row’s historic institutions, a visit to Audley House is a unique experience. Each gun is fitted entirely to your personal specifications, including height and more individual measurements like the length of your neck, before it is constructed using the same methods as when the shop first opened. As well as the craftsmanship, much of which takes place in the gunmaker’s West London workshop, Purdey guns are renowned for their perfect fit – something that is often attributed to how the customers are measured for the gun’s stock. Each is unique to its new owner, but all are constructed from the finest walnut (Juglans Regia) from Turkey. The true piece de resistance of a bespoke Purdey gun, though, is its meticulous hand engraving. Whether you want a classic Purdey style, a more personal touch such as your favourite gun dog, or something more elaborate with gold inlay, Purdey’s engravers are considered the finest available today. It takes between 18 and 24 months to build your new gun, so it’s important you’re sure it’s perfect. Even if you’re not certain your request can be fulfilled, it’s always worth a shot.
TRAVEL The idea of bespoke travel can begin before you’ve even left the country. For example, Heathrow VIP offers a service like no other. It starts with a chauffeur-driven ride from your home to the airport. So far, so Virgin. However, if their fleet of brand new BMW 7 Series aren’t special enough, they’ll source something more unique – bright orange Lamborghini, anyone? On arrival, clients get their own lounge for the duration of their stay – no other guests allowed. But the personal touches don’t stop there. Let’s assume you’re a particular fan of, say, Damien Hirst, then Heathrow VIP’s art advisor Tanya Baxter Contemporary can have a collection hanging on the walls of your lounge next time you fly through. One of the celebrity guests had never experienced an afternoon tea, so the team shipped one in from the masters, Fortnum & Mason. And if you’re after a particular watch, the VIP buyers can have it waiting for you – VAT free, naturally. For the next step, let Carrier take care of your trip. This isn’t your average Thomas Cook holiday, of course: what sets Carrier apart from other travel specialists is not just its knowledge and expertise of the best hotels and luxurious locations, but its ability to personalise every holiday into an incredible bespoke experience. It has curated several themes to get your creative juices flowing: whether that’s ‘The
One Shore Thing’, providing access to the world’s most exclusive beach clubs and private islands; ‘The Adventurous One’, for those looking to view the world’s most spectacular scenery in blissful luxury, or; ‘One of a Kind’ experiences like staying in a unique bird’s nest room in Kenya, there’s an array of options available to every kind of traveller.
SUPERYACHTS If fashion represents the broadest appeal in the world of bespoke, there is one category that is by far the most exclusive: there’s rich, there’s super rich and then there’s the level of minted required to commission your very own Philippe Starck superyacht. Over the two decades, the visionary French designer’s audacious and divisive yachts have inspired awe in any one lucky enough to set eyes upon them, let alone step on board. His latest is Sailing Yacht A, a 468ft-long vessel owned by Russian billionaire Andrey Igorevich Melnichenko. Loosely termed a sailassisted motor yacht, the £360m floating palace comprises eight decks, with an underwater observation deck hidden in the bulbous bow, alongside a deck that has been engineered in such a way that you can view from the bow to the stern without any structural obstructions. Its biggest draw (quite literally, mind), is the three mammoth 300ft masts, which stand taller than Big Ben. It just goes to show that, when it comes to bespoke, the sky really is the limit. ■
BESPOKE YOUR LIFE: Travel with Carrier (carrier.co.uk) and Heathrow VIP (heathrowvip.com); customise your Bentley (bentleymotors.com); and buy an iconic Purdey shotgun made just for you (purdey.com).
Picking A New Collar Scheme From oversized silhouettes to rodeo chic, London Fashion Week Menâ€™s was a riot of creative style and exciting new looks. DARREN KENNEDY outlines the ten key trends for Autumn/Winter 2018 which are the talk of the catwalk
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CAPABLE OF GREATNESS: Drama took centre stage at the Casely-Hayford show, as seen in this theatrical take on a classic trench, where structure has been stripped away and the collar emphasised.
OW IN ITS 11th season, London Fashion Week Men’s (LFWM) continues to prove that the menswear shows are not merely a Fashion Week afterthought, but a big business event bustling with energy and creativity. Despite the absence of some big-name designers such as JW Anderson and Burberry, the London menswear shows continue to be a championing platform for new designers, who not only reflect the zeitgeist, but cut through it to reveal designs that are at once subversive, innovative and fresh. While household names such as Vivienne Westwood proved that fashion is political in a brief video presentation in lieu of an actual show, other designers such as Bobby Abley showcased the more playful and fun side to the fashion world. Both sides of the coin often melded together in some designers’ presentations in creative celebrations of individuality and diversity. This season, collections also felt distinctly international, reflective of a societal shift towards a more inclusive state. Fashion has always favoured the expressive and experimental and we saw this through London label, Art School (presented as part of the MAN strand of LFWM), who celebrated nonbinary identities in a standout showcase. With a plethora of designers offering
A RETURN TO YOUTH
London menswear shows continue to be a championing platform for new designers something for everyone – from the zany to the classic – I’ve filtered through the collections to select my top ten trends from London Fashion Week Men’s Autumn/Winter 2018.
MORE IS MORE In recent seasons, we’ve seen an undeniable shift in form and structure with a lot of designers moving towards more minimalist aesthetics and a lack of branding. However, LFWM AW18 decided to inject the fun back into fashion. Take Blood Brothers’ unapologetically bold offerings in stereotypically garish hues – a perceptible satire on ‘new money’ mentality. Definitely not one for the faint-hearted, but a canny reminder of fashion’s ability to poke fun at itself – expect to see the return of slogans and prints next season like it’s 2003 all over again!
This season, there was a distinct wave of nostalgia across many of the collections, perhaps offered as an antidote to current unstable political climates or perhaps a harking back to a simpler time. Kent & Curwen, the label partly owned by David Beckham, showcased old-school bomber jackets and rugby shirts emblazoned with crests and logos in an ostensible homage to British youth culture that Beckham himself declared as “multi-generational.”
TEXTURE AND TEXTILES Dedicated to sustainable and ethical fashion design, Phoebe English’s collection was an understated yet innovative presentation. English’s approach is not only impressive in its mindfulness, but also incredibly stylish. Presenting a collection in predominantly dark hues of black and navy with clever burnt orange accents made for eye-catching appeal. With wax coats crafted with fabric from British Millerain alongside cable knit sweaters and paper-like fabric shirts, the layering of various textures felt decidedly modern.
OVERSIZED SILHOUETTES Fashion is definitely having more than just a moment with the oversized silhouette – it’s
a full-blown love affair and it’s here to stay. London-based label Qasimi mastered this trend for AW18 with a collection presented in comforting autumnal tones. Elongated sleeve lengths and dramatically billowing trousers were the order of the day for this minimalist yet fashion-forward aesthetic.
UTILITARIAN WORKWEAR British singer Tinie Tempah’s third collection for What We Wear astounded the critics at this year’s LFWM with designs inspired by utilitarian dressing. Combining elements of workers’ uniforms with more modern items of clothing such as sportswear, the collection, like the designer himself, is effortlessly cool.
BRIGHT AND BOLD PRINTS PHOTOGRAPHS (Qasimi and Blood Borthers) by Aitor Rosás/WWD
In many ways, Alex Mullins’ AW18 collection was the walking embodiment of many of LFWM’s biggest trends – full of oversized shapes and reimagined textures – but it is perhaps his predilection for print that makes it such an absolutely standout collection. This might seem like a surfeit of psychedelic onslaught to some, but a bold print can
FALL GUYS: [far left to right] Blood Brothers’ A/W 2018 collection showcased bold colours and logos; big prints at Alex Mullins; Oliver Spencer’s reinvented two-piece; [above left to right] inventive layering at Phoebe English; Qasimi played with oversized silhouettes; navy and orange at Christopher Raeburn.
actually look great when worn under a more relatively subdued outfit.
NAVY AND ORANGE Accenting navy with orange is an underused, clever trick that is flattering for practically all skin tones and it was one used to perfection by Christopher Raeburn. The theme of Raeburn’s collection was ‘maritime distress’ and he offered up deconstructed and reconstructed takes on seafarer garments using his signature repurposed materials throughout. However, one of the most undeniably eye-catching trends on the Raeburn catwalk was his implementation of navy and orange. One standout look included an oversized navy puffer jacket, clashed with an orange backpack featuring criss-cross seatbelt-style straps.
RODEO CHIC Tartan was seen in increasing prevalence on the AW18 menswear runways in subtle but playful nods to old westerns, but no designer championed this trend with more aplomb than Astrid Andersen. Inspired by old photographs of Jeny Howorth shot by Mark Lebon, Andersen sent models down the catwalk in cowboy hats, clashing plaids and lumberjack shirts, worn against mismatched prints and fabrics. The result was a flashback to the 1980s and to a time of relaxed convention and carefree attitudes where anything goes.
THE REINVENTED TWO-PIECE Arguably inspired by the remnants of the athleisure trend which has proliferated catwalks over the last few of years, the twopiece is a welcome addition to our AW18 wardrobes. The perfect answer to smart-casual needs, the two-piece possesses all the ease and comfort of sportswear without any of the stuffiness of formalwear. It’s the perfect antidote to a worn-out suit; easily dressed up or down. Oliver Spencer excelled this season with an oversized houndstooth option in a collection that also re-emphasised the versatility and beauty of corduroy – a case also made by Prada last season at Milan Fashion Week.
DRAMA KINGS Finally, one trend that pervaded many of the catwalks and goes hand-in-hand with Fashion Week is drama, and AW18 had it aplenty. From dramatically cut coats at Casely-Hayford to the balloon-sleeve shirts and oversized capes at Chalayan, AW18 is all about injecting a theatrical element into your wardrobe. Casely-Hayford’s collection was a particular standout, all about reinvented shapes and adding volume where possible to redefine masculinity. Turkish label Chalayan favoured modern tailoring; taking classic pieces as a base only to reimagine them with the addition of fabric panelling or folds to offer an unexpected take on the purportedly familiar. ■
Upwardly Mobile Wearable tech is on an unstoppable rise, and the latest wave of products take the concept to heady new heights. ZOEY GOTO presents the ingenious new items you shouldn’t be living without
EMEMBER WHEN A Walkman was the last word in wearable tech? And when we say wearable, we all know that really meant an unyielding plastic clip that, were you not wearing a very tight pair of jeans indeed, would almost certainly cause the waistband of your kecks to sag. Oh, how times have changed. Not only is music portable in a way that involves little more than a pair of wireless earphones, but the concept has extended into all manner of items, from smartwatches and fitbits to the likes of a self-heating coat (yes, really). And that’s just the tip of the ‘I never knew I needed that but WOW I absolutely do’ iceberg. Here’s our pick of the latest wearable tech that will not just make your life a little easier, but make you think, too…. ALTRA TORIN IQ TRAINERS Running just got a lot smarter, with these training shoes that track not only the distance and quality of your jog, but also provide real-time coaching. It’s the only shoe on the
market to feature full-length, featherweight sensors embedded in the sole. They feedback via an app on how your feet are landing and weight distribution, along with data on your pace and distance. If your form starts to slip towards the end of a race, live coaching tips can be switched on for encouragement. Altra specialises in running shoes and has a true understanding of the foot, so it pretty much feels like you’re running on a cloud. £180, available from altrafootwear.co.uk
ZEPP GOLF 2 3D SWING ANALYSER Simply slip this device onto your golfing glove, take a few swings and it will instantly evaluate how you can improve your game. This compact wearable breaks down the mechanics of your swing into six different measurements; club speed, club plane, hand plane, hand speed, backswing position and tempo. Once the areas for improvement have been highlighted, the app then provides training videos from professionals such as Keegan ➤
HIGH-TECH TRAINER: Thanks to full-length, featherweight sensors embedded in the sole, Altra’s Torin IQ trainers can track the distance and quality of your jog. They go one step further by providing real-time coaching via an app, so if you’re struggling at the end of race, you’ll get some encouragement.
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➤ Bradley – who you can also compare your stats with, if you’re feeling particularly brave. If you aspire to achieving a better handicap, the Zepp provides clear feedback on how you can make that happen. £139.95, available from apple.com
THE KERV CONTACTLESS RING Now you can leave your wallet, phone and cash at home but still pay for those everyday transactions, using the world’s first contactless payment ring. The beauty of the ceramic Kerv ring, which comes in 14 different colour combinations, is that it’s a wearable that doesn’t obviously look like a piece of tech. In a flash of the hand, you can buy a coffee, use the Underground or pay for a round of drinks, as the Kerv can be used anywhere that accepts contactless payments. The only drawback is that you need to initially register for a Prepaid MasterCard account, but once connected, the ring doesn’t require charging or pairing. £99.99, available from kerv.com
EMEL + ARIS HEATED SMART COAT The unpredictability of the British weather requires a wide variety of outerwear options. Emel + Aris are attempting to reduce this down to a single winter coat, which can be adapted to the changing temperatures using intelligent heat technology, powered by a small rechargeable battery. The revolutionary jackets heat up the torso of the body at the
The revolutionary smart jackets from Emel + Aris can heat up the torso at the press of a button press of a button, giving the feeling of all over warmth on those frosty mornings. For men there are two styles – a classic Savile Row cut overcoat costing £1,395 and a cotton mac with detachable gilet priced £1,295. Skilled craftsmen in the UK have created the coats using the finest Loro Piana textiles, ensuring that style has not been compromised. Available from emelandaris.com
BRAGI THE DASH PRO EARPHONES The Dash Pro are the latest version of hearables from the German tech pioneer Bragi, and this time they deliver a longer battery life, improved voice calling, and have a real-time language translation feature – handy for international travel. These intelligent earphones also allow you to stream music, measure your exercise activities, take a phone call or skip a song by head gestures, all without the hassle of wires. However, where they really come into their own is in the
swimming pool. These Bragi earphones can link via Bluetooth to your favourite playlist, and even when used underwater, they provide exceptional sound quality. This feature alone should justify their higher price point. £299.99, available from Dixons Travel, Selfridges and direct from bragi.com
UPRIGHT GO POSTURE TRAINER While perhaps not the sexiest looking product, this palm-sized posture trainer has the powerful ability to make your posture more attractive. The small plastic wearable sticks to your back with reusable silicon adhesives and discreetly buzzes each time your posture droops, like a digital version of your mother reminding you to stand up straight. It also links up to an app, where back muscles are strengthened with increasing daily training sessions, or a tracking mode highlights the times in the day where you are most prone to slouching. Not only will it help you to project a more confident body language within the workplace, it’s also a lot cheaper than having a chiropractor on speed dial. £79.99, available from apple.com
BREITLING EXOSPACE B55 CONNECTED Breitling has taken its precision navigation and timekeeping – which has made the brand a favourite with pilots for decades – and applied this to its first connected watch. As well as
LET’S TALK ABOUT TECH, BABY: [this image] There’s smartwatches, and then there’s Montblanc’s Summit, where cutting-edge technology meets classic design; [far left] maintain your cool while keeping warm in Emil + Aris’s self-heating smart coat; [left] Breitling’s Exospace B55 keeps you connected whatever you’re doing.
alerting you to emails and calls, the Exospace B55 will help to orientate you while travelling by simultaneously showing two time-zones through the digital display and the hands. Both in appearance – with its distinctive, sportylooking strap – and functionality, the Exospace B55 is absolutely ideal for the modern-day explorer who loves to swim, ride, run and fly, while staying connected. From £5,040, available from beaverbrooks.co.uk
PHOTOGRAPHS (Breitling) by Franz J. Venzin; (Montblanc) Cedric Schanze
COROS LINX SMART CYCLING HELMET This is the first bike helmet on the market to use bone conduction technology, allowing riders to listen to their music and receive calls safely while on the open road. Avoiding the hassle and distraction of earphones and wires, the Linx helmet sends small vibrations via the helmet straps to the inner ear, leaving the eardrum completely open and aware of external noises such as traffic. There is also a wind-resistant microphone so you can communicate with other Linx riders in your group. In addition to this, a wireless smart remote allows you to keep your eyes on the
road and hands on the bars, while controlling media and calls with the tap of a button. £179.99, available from halfords.com
FITBIT IONIC Although it is billed as a smartwatch, the Ionic is best tx§reated as a fitness tracker with benefits. As well as tracking your cardio levels, steps and sleep quality, it can be used to make contactless payments, listen to music and access apps. The Ionic also improves upon previous models by adding built-in GPS and a dedicated swimming mode, with water resistance up to 50 metres. Aesthetically, it is hard to get away from the fact that you’re wearing a fitness tracker, but if you’re serious about training, the Ionic provides more detailed feedback and coaching to keep you on track. £239, available from fitbit.co.uk
MONTBLANC SUMMIT SMARTWATCH Cutting-edge technology meets classic vintage style with Montblanc’s stylish debut smartwatch. The Summit has all the features one might expect from a connected watch
The Linx smart helmet enables you to listen to music via the helmet straps to the inner ear – from a heart rate monitor and fitness tracking sensors, to voice translation and 4GB of memory to download and control music from your wrist. It is also surprisingly lightweight, making it easy to forget that it’s being worn. While the technology might be cutting edge, the design takes its inspiration from Montblanc’s iconic 1858 collection, giving the Summit a timeless quality. There are also a variety of a customisation options, with changeable straps and an in-built collection of digital Montblanc watch faces. A genuinely modern classic has been born. £765-£915, available from montblanc.com ■
BARBOUR X LAND ROVER DEFENDER COLLECTION There are few collaborations as reliably ‘fit for purpose’ as the union of Barbour and Land Rover. The two British icons have reunited for a new collection inspired by the late, great Land Rover Defender. Olives and blues pervade, with the Defender logo used throughout. Men’s accessories don’t come more rugged than this. Exclusive to John Lewis; johnlewis.com
WESTWARD LEANING HANDMADE SUNGLASSES, FROM £163
PHOTOGRAPH by publinc larit em potinium vid ces blah
Westward Leaning is a visionary company in more ways than one. Firstly, every pair of sunglasses it makes is genuinely unisex. Secondly, the company is socially conscious – for every pair of Westwards sold, the company donates $10 to charity. Each pair has a signature rhombus inlay integrated on the temple of the frame; one is even made from Californian redwood – sustainably reclaimed, naturally. The San Fran brand’s styles include everything from classic to fluorescent and mirror lenses. Pictured here [from far left to right] are the Double Bridge in matte black acetate, Mirrorcake in matte blue metal, and Sphinx in polished crystal acetate. Whichever you choose, the company swears that their frames suit everyone, so buy a pair and you’ll look as good as you feel. westwardleaning.com
COACH METROPOLITAN PORTFOLIO BAG As the name suggests, this briefcase-meetsmessenger is a good choice for use around the city – a detachable cross-body strap means you can sling it over your shoulder, and there’s a secure inside sleeve for a laptop, while the oxblood pebble leather will give your spring wardrobe a refined style update, too. £475; uk.coach.com
DOLCE & GABBANA CRUISE COLLECTION
This look embodies a number of SS18’s trends in one hit: denim, floral design, patchwork, brocade, urban vibes, animal prints, there’s a lot going on, and that’s just how devotees of the iconic Italian brand like it. You could make like one of the millenial musicians and models who featured in the Dolce & Gabbana show in Milan and step out in head-to-toe finery if you’re feeling particularly ‘wavy’ (it’s what all the kids are saying, apparently). But if you’re not ready to go full UK rapper – Tinie Tempah was one of the stars walking, and carried it off with signature panache – then that’s OK, we understand. Instead, pick carefully and you can elevate your casualwear to the next level. Take one of the stand-out pieces and team with a classic trouser or plain white T-shirt to add a ‘you never knew I was this trendy, did you guys?’ edge to your look. Probably don’t actually ever say ‘wavy’ out loud though. dolcegabbana.com
FARINI WEEKENDER We know this Farini holdall is designed for weekends away – lightweight, floor-to-floor zips, sturdy handles, detachable shoulder strap – we get it. But that lovely leather it’s made from, in a shade that’s ever-so-aptly akin to a ‘long weekend in St Tropez’ tan, makes us want to keep it with us at all times. £400; maxwellscottbags.com
DERBY SHOE The muted green canvas uppers of these Armani Derbys are certain to bring a summery hue to your shoe game. Chunky soles are all the rage, too. Sure, they look big and brash, but the base on these covetable kicks is ultralight, ensuring you can stroll all the way to SS18 style success and keep your cool. £420; armani.com
TRAVELLER JACKET Numerous multifunctional pockets, a concealed hood and straps for easy carrying all make this linen jacket incredibly handy for those on the go. It also benefits from a unique ‘rain system’ – Loro Piana’s own method of ensuring fabric is water and wind resistant, which is reassuring for a UK summer. £1,930; loropiana.com
TUMI HARRISON COLLECTION
Backapcks are back, and have been for a while. And the briefcase? Well, it never really went away. But if you’re looking for an updated version of either (or both? Go on, treat yourself), take a look at Tumi’s brand new Harrison collection, which manages that coveted style double: a contemporary aesthetic with classic design at its core. Take the Horton double-zip brief (£595) – relaxed lines and bold detailing give it an edge, but a spacious interior and sturdy design mean it certainly means business. Same rules apply with the Webster backpack (£695) – a slightly more relaxed choice for those who prefer to remain hands-free, but no less smart in high quality, paddled black leather. uk.tumi.com
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MR MARVIS SHORTS / SWIMSHORTS Mr Marvis shorts are crafted by hand in Portugal using high-quality materials. From organic fabric to buttons and labels, everything is sourced in the vicinity of the production facility near Porto. After 12 months of development, its new swimshort range is coming out this March available in ten colours and three prints. £79; mrmarvis.co.uk
BOSS SPRING/SUMMER 2018 COLLECTION
MONTBLANC 1858 AUTOMATIC WATCH Montblanc’s vintage-inspired 1858 collection is brimming with appealing retro details that stand out on the wrist. Take the new 40mm Automatic: the bronze bezel makes a striking contrast to the steel case, while the smoked sfumato dial and elegant cathedral hands look the part whether you’re dressing up or down. £2,170; montblanc.com ■
PHOTOGRAPH (BOSS) by Jan Lehner
Loose silhouettes, nautical details and an altogether ‘lighter’ look are the focus-points of BOSS’s ‘Summer of Ease’ collection, and we’re all for it – why wouldn’t you want to swap structured fits for oversized shapes, loose-cut jackets and wide-leg trousers when it’s summer in the City? Fabric is also relaxed, with breezy linens, seersucker textures and lightweight cottons prevailing. Even double denim gets a look-in, and while it’s been given a bad rep in the past (Bros, we’re looking at you), this paired-down, indigo denim two-piece is the epitome of minimalist cool. Team it with one of the collection’s Breton-striped Ts for a fresh style statement that’s nautical and nice.
The definitive menâ€™s shoe collection. Cut from the finest leather. Sculpted by artisans in Italy. No middle men. No brand name mark-ups. No store costs. FINE SHOES STRAIGHT FROM THE MAKERS
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L I V E F O R T H E One minute he was the hottest name in British music, the next, he’d virtually disappeared, leaving a trail of endlessly quoted lyrics in his wake. Now, he’s back. Craig David fills MAX WILLIAMS in on where he’s been, and where he’s going Photography by DAN KENNEDY
M O M E N T squaremile.com
IDNIGHT IN MIAMI, 2010. Craig David’s Ferrari is refusing to start. This isn’t any Ferrari but the car of David’s childhood dreams: coveted ever since he drove it on the arcade game Out Run, and now he drives it for real. Only, tonight, he doesn’t. Until this point, it’s been a good evening: dinner at a nice restaurant, plans to hit up a nightclub – at least until the Ferrari intervened. David tells the others to go ahead. He calls the car dealership. “The guy says to me, ‘OK, you need to turn the car on and off 20 times, and open the door 20 times because it resets the ignition.’” He does. Nothing happens. He calls back the dealership. They tell him the tow truck will be an hour and a half. So he sits tight – a superstar stranded in a supercar. The restaurant empties. Time ticks away. David’s discomfort grows: for all their many virtues, Ferraris are not designed as waiting rooms. “It’s hot, like humid in there, and I can’t turn the air conditioning on because I can’t turn the car on. So I’m hot.” Then it starts to rain, “like pouring down, tropical rain. So now I can’t get out the car, and I’m hot, and I’m getting frustrated, and I’m like this is all long, my night’s messed up, it was all going so well.” And then Craig David has a kind of epiphany. “I looked at the yellow badge in the middle of the steering wheel with the black horse… I looked at it and then all of a sudden I saw myself as that kid playing the little Outrun game, putting the pound coins in. And then back in the car again! I was like, whoa, wait a minute: I’m actually in the car of my dreams. I own the car of my dreams. “You know when people say they see their whole life flash past them? I was seeing: ‘Oh, you not only own the car, but you live in Miami, you’ve got a home in Miami, you have a career that’s now spanned 15 years at this point… I’m seeing all this music, I’m seeing Born to Do It, I’m seeing all these different records, I’m seeing living in Miami – and then I
came back and I just got really emotional.” “I was looking at the stitching in the car, thinking ‘this is sick…’ And I had a realisation: if I can’t be grateful for what I have now, I will never be grateful in my life. Ever. That was the game-changer for me. It was like: I got it. I was like the boy who got everything, and he’s still not grateful. I couldn’t be that.” Even in 2010, Craig David had much to be grateful for. His debut album, the aforementioned Born to Do It, sold more than 7.5 million copies worldwide and rocketed a teenager from Southampton to immediate stardom. Its two biggest singles, ‘Fill Me In’ and ‘7 Days’, weren’t mere number ones but calling cards of British R’n’B. In 2000, Craig David didn’t just rule the present – he sounded like the future. A fresh new voice for an untarnished millennium, barely out of its box. His second album, 2002’s Slicker Than Your Average, managed to be a critically acclaimed, double-platinum number four that was perceived as a relative failure. Selling 3.5 million copies is an incredible achievement, except when your previous album sold double that. “I was a young kid who kinda bought into statistics. People saying, ‘it’s got to be bigger’ and the record label hyping it up: ‘this is going to be ten million, it’s going to be huge!’ So you buy into this thing. “Now, I look back in isolation: 3.5 million albums! Give 3.5 million albums to any artist right now and they’ll be like, ‘I’m going to be partying for the rest of this year.’ And the hard copy: not like there’s some streaming here, a bit here. I’m talking hard copy in your hand! It was a different time back then.” ‘World Filled with Love’, the album’s fifth UK single, was written in a hotel room in the aftermath of 9/11. It peaked at number 15 – David’s first single not to reach the top ten. His 23rd birthday lay ahead of him, but already David had started on the journey that would reach a manner of spiritual climax one rainy Miami night, stuck outside an empty restaurant in a Ferrari that wouldn’t start.
SEPTEMBER 2015. KURUPT FM, London’s ‘second most popular pirate radio station’ portrayed in mockumentary sitcom People Just Do Nothing, have taken over DJ MistaJam’s #SixtyMinutesLive on BBC Radio 1XTRA. Guests include Stormzy and Big Narstie, the grime MCs of the moment, but the most rapturous reception is reserved for the final appearance. “I’m gassed for Craig David, I’m gassed for Craig David!” screams a delighted Big Narstie. “The don, the don, the don! Craig David the don! International don!” “That moment walking in, and the Kurupt
BORN TO DO IT: Craig David’s first album sold 7.5 million copies, his second 3.5 million. After the release of his third, he spent an extended period in Miami, but now he’s now back in a big way, both in the UK charts and on Glastonbury’s Pyramid stage [below].
FM guys being so hyped. They went from being in character to being themselves.” A beaming David – “I’m so good, man, I’m so good” – squeezes into the booth and proceeds to sing his 2000 hit ‘Fill Me In’ over the Jack Ü, Justin Bieber track ‘Where Are Ü Now’. The studio erupts. A 15-year-old tune sounds like it was dropped the day before; a man who hasn’t released an album for half a decade becomes the talk of social media – ‘huge fan. Honored’ tweeted Bieber of the remix. “To see the first viral moment of that song kicking off… I’d never experienced that before. [At the time of] the first album, for many a year there wasn’t that social impact and response.” There wasn’t even social media. The first YouTube video was uploaded in 2005; Twitter was created in 2006. Their rise coincided with David’s chart descent: The Story Goes… (2005) peaked at number five in the UK; Trust Me (2007) entered the charts at number 18. Of course these failures were relative – both
PHOTOGRAPH by (main) Dan Kennedy; (inset) @craigdavid Instagram
sold in the hundreds of thousands – but set against Born to Do It, different standards applied. Bo Selecta!, a crass sketch show which caricatured David with catchphrases and a giant latex mask, further undermined a singer for whom greatness had seemed preordained. Then came the relocation to Miami. David had intended to buy a small flat for his yearly visits to the city, but “I just got ideas of grandeur. All of a sudden it turned into this huge apartment, and I then sold my place here and did the whole move. “After three or four years, I was like, what is going on here? I feel so detached from all my friends and my mates that were back in the UK. Musically, I feel like I’m not in touch – you can go to social media and the internet to find what’s going on, but you’re not living it. “There was a point where I was thinking, there’s nowhere to drive, I’m driving around for no reason. After a while, yeah, the sun’s beautiful, OK, cool. I’m a bit over this, can I go
to the club? And everyone’s a bit elitist with the VIP area, and you’ve got the VIP area, and for me it’s all nonsense.” So David started throwing parties in his apartment: Tower Suite 5. Playing DJ sets to a crowd of friends and acquaintances, like a kid whose parents are away for the weekend. “When I had the house parties, something happened. When I started going back to basics… It was necessary for me to go through
After three or four years [in Miami], I was like, what’s going on? I feel so detached from the UK
that period in Miami to birth this TS5 thing – which really was the DJ element in me that had got left in Southampton.” He wouldn’t return to the UK for several years but Craig David was musically reborn. Two months after the appearance with Kurupt FM, David and new friend Big Narstie released ‘When the Bassline Drops’, a raucous garage anthem and David’s first single in six years. It peaked at number ten – his first top ten hit since ‘Hot Stuff (Let’s Dance)’ in 2007. Suddenly, Craig David was everywhere. By the time his January cover of Justin Bieber’s ‘Love Yourself’ went viral – 7.5m YouTube views; ‘much respect. Thanks’ the Bieber verdict – the comeback had become a phenomenon.
GLASTONBURY, 2017. ONE of the biggest crowds of the festival has gathered at the Pyramid stage. In an hour, Labour leader Jeremy Corbyn will call on US President Donald Trump to “build bridges, not walls”; ➤
➤ but not before nearly 100,000 people have paid homage to another unlikely man of the moment. The previous September, Craig David scored his first number one album since his debut with ‘Following My Intuition’. Now he plays his second Glastonbury in two years, on the grandest stage of all. “The Pyramid stage was – wow. The amount of people, the cross demographic of people that were there. To see that much love was one of the highlights of the year.” Craig David owns Glastonbury that afternoon. He mixes classics with his TS5 set – the audience may be larger but the reaction is the same. Everybody is having the time of their lives, no-one more so than David himself. “[Doing the TS5 set] all I could remember was being back in the flat that I had in Miami with about ten of my mates there, doing a couple of shots, and them saying, ‘yeah, play that, play House of Pain, ‘Jump Around’, it’ll be sick!’ And I’m doing my little thing, making a little mix, getting a little wavy off the drinks. And then I walk back and there’s 90,000 people in front of me going nuts to the same thing. Because what I’m doing is no different: it’s just actually come to fruition! “I’m singing these tunes and it’s going off and people are hyped… I’m thinking, this is everything that four years ago I dreamt of – not necessarily Glastonbury, but dreamt of TS5 becoming something, and having this new music that would connect. The magnitude was unbelievable. Mad!” It’s a remarkable story – but what of the man who lived it? Craig David arrives at the music studio (temporarily transformed into a photography studio) bang on time, greets everyone with genuine warmth, and within five minutes is posing for pictures: no makeup, no fuss. He complies with every request,
BASTILLE: “This was the last song to actually make it on to the album. Dan [Smith] was in the studio down the road. We’ve got this song that cemented everything the record is about: inclusion, going out with your mates and recognising that it doesn’t matter if you couldn’t get into the club you wanted to. Because you’re with your mates you still had an amazing time. You had a laugh and that’s all that matters.”
RE-REWIND: David on the pyramid stage at Glastonbury 2017, where he performed a selection of new songs and old hits. Not a bad warm-up act for Jeremy Corbyn’s unlikely appearance.
answers every question, and even records a couple of mobile videos for the friends of those present. (“Hey Soraya. I just wanted to say happy birthday…”) Craig David’s niceness is incontestable, almost overwhelming. Positivity radiates off him – a Tiggerish joie de vivre that extends to spending a January afternoon with square mile. “I’m gassed we’ve got a cover shoot! I’m hyped like I was the first time!” He acts as though he’s won the lottery twice over… but then he starts talking music, and you realise the man’s knowledge on the subject is basically depthless, and you remember his renaissance wasn’t gifted but earned through
My new record excites me because whatever happens, wherever it charts, it’s fresh and now GOLDLINK: “GoldLink was in town when we were recording the album. I’m a big fan of him. I love the way that social media can help out with the collaboration process: you can hit people up in ways you weren’t ever able to do before. I was able to give him a shout, saying, ‘bro, would you like to come in the studio, and jump on this record?’ Next thing you know, we’ve got this song called ‘Live in the Moment’.”
graft, self-belief and talent, the same traits that secured his first shot at stardom all those years ago. The difference this time round is perspective: “I’ve realised it’s not about the numbers. It’s just about making great music, and having a positive impact in people’s lives.” David’s latest album – The Time is Now – sounds like a man in total control of his craft, and utterly in love with it. Discussing the record, his excitement is palpable – more like a teenager chatting about a breakthrough mixtape than a 36-year-old veteran of the industry. Jaded, Craig David is not. “It’s an R’n’B album at heart. I wanted to do an album that was all about inclusion, and a very positive message as the undertone of it.” He describes The Time is Now as new R’n’B with “all the sensibility of that original R’n’B. And that is what really excites me – because whatever happens to the record, wherever it charts, wherever it doesn’t, the record is fresh, and it’s now.” The youth and diversity of his collaborators is testament to David’s continual nowness: an artist who appeared fossilized in one era is now at the vanguard of another. “I’m definitely one of those people who moves with the
JP COOPER: “The JP Cooper record was like, if we’re going to do a song together, it can’t just be a ‘get the guitar out, round the campfire’ vibe. You’ve got to throw people off. So we wrote a song called ‘Get Involved’, which feels like more of an Eminem record. He’s in this relationship with a girl, and I’m his best mate saying, ‘come on bro, you can see she’s playing you.’ I hope people will hear it and say, ‘I didn’t expect that’.”
PHOTOGRAPHS by (top left) Harry Durrant/Getty Images; (bottom right) Dan Kennedy
change: otherwise you turn into [music] your parents can get into, or your grandparents. ‘Oh, it was better off in my day.’” He scorns the idea of suffocating competition. “No! Bring everyone through! It keeps you very much fresh, and it gives people a platform. You want people to succeed.” This mentality encapsulates Craig David. As a fan, he knows where the talent is; as a person, he wants to help young artists break through; and as a musician, he refuses to fall back in a comfort zone, rehash the same tunes with the same old names. It may sound obvious: but take a look at the charts in August 2000. Ronan Keating, David Gray, Melanie C, even Eminem: it’s like opening a time capsule. (And those are the ones you’ll recognise: Ruff Endz, anyone?) Only the man atop the list could claim to still operate at his peak. “The only thing that hasn’t changed [in the music industry] is three minutes in a record. Three minutes will always change your life if you are willing to be in the studio and write those songs. I know that for sure now. “It’s not just like there’s a nostalgic thing about me – if I didn’t come with anything new or anything fresh, people would just be like, ‘yeah, we’ll pull out some Born to Do It tunes.’ “Be willing to drop the bags of your success. And be grateful for it, but don’t be here telling the same story: ‘I did this and I did that and the world owes me.’ The world owes nothing. I’ve gotta come out and just be fresh.” It’s tempting to portray the Miami years as a period in the wilderness; albeit a wilderness filled with beautiful women and fast cars and house parties. (Craig? Where did it all go wrong?) Perhaps ‘distraction’ is a better term – why concentrate on your music when you can take that new Ferrari for a spin? It took a junior employee at David’s
ELLA MAI: “She’s a UK artist, but spends a lot of time in LA. Her voice is amazing. I was literally tagging her just saying ‘this is an amazing song’. She tagged back: ‘Ah man, I’m a big fan of your music.’ I’m like, ‘I’ve just been listening to your stuff, I’m in the studio, I don’t know if you’re town?’ ‘Yeah, I’m coming over in a week!’ Next thing we’re in the studio and we record this song called Talk To Me Part II.”
management company to confront the Miami issue – telling the singer, “we feel like we lose you. You go to Miami, it just feels like you’re messing about.” The words resonated. Rather than fly back to the East Coast, David stayed in London – and the studio. Matt Dodds is now his manager at JEM Music Group. “I’ve still got my apartment in Miami, but I haven’t actually been back there for about nine months. I have no idea what’s going on out there. I know it sounds a bit frivolous but I’m just like, ‘I’m on a wave! I’ve gotta be in a studio, I’ve gotta make the tunes, because I’m loving it! Not laying out getting a suntan driving your sports car around like a waste. No one needs that right now.” What if David had stayed in Miami? “That question is great because there is only one path… If I didn’t tell my mates, ‘listen, I’m
going to stay in tonight and finish this song’ – if I had just gone out and kept on wrecking my voice, drinking and going crazy – then ‘Fill Me In’, ‘7 Days’, ‘Walking Away’, ‘Rewind’ wouldn’t have happened. “When I look back, it’s every single thing, as much as some things feel like, ‘why does this not seem to go to the plan that I set out? A, B, C – why’s it gone A, J, D, F?’ But life has this beautiful way of playing out. You realise, in hindsight, those things were so necessary.” For Craig David, life has played out very well indeed – and I doubt anybody in the world could begrudge him. He belongs in the spotlight – living proof that nice guys do indeed finish first. (Twice and counting…) Nearly two decades after his arrival, once again his moment is here. ■ The Time is Now is out now.
LIFE GOES ON MARK HEDLEY speaks to
Sara Terry, photographer, documentary maker and editor of new book ‘War is Only Half the Story, Ten Years of The Aftermath Project’ on the importance of post-conflict reportage
HIDDEN SCARS by Stanley Greene (grant winner, 2013): “This photo was taken in the village of Samashki, where Russian paramilitary troops massacred more than 100 people on 7-8 April, 1995. I photographed the fighting here in 1995. Nearly 20 years later, I find kids playing fighters, in front of a bullet hole-scarred fence. They are still trying to kill Russians, even if it is in make believe.”
A PHOTOGRAPH by publinc larit em potinium vid ces blah
RE YOU FRICKING kidding me? What’s happened to long-term thinking? What’s happened to foreign aid?” Sara Terry is angry. More than 17 years since the end of the Bosnian War, she still gets irate at the travesty left behind when the conflict ended. In the summer of 2000, nearly five years after the peace agreement was signed, Bosnian Muslims were only just starting to feel safe to return home again. But the international community had succumbed to what the documentary photographer and filmmaker Terry defines as “Bosnia fatigue”, ➤
➤ and they had moved on to the next crisis. Only around a quarter of the people who wanted to return home would have any help doing so. “I decided to ditch my job on a newsdesk – where I didn’t get to cover anything in any real depth – and go to Bosnia to see if there was a story to tell.” There was. And it took her five years to tell it. “The end of war does not mean peace. It is simply the end of death and destruction,” explains Terry in the resulting Aftermath: Bosnia’s Long Road to Peace. “Every story of war includes a chapter that almost always goes untold – the story of the aftermath, which day by day becomes the prologue of the future.” In Nobel Laureate Wisława Szymborska’s ‘The End and the Beginning’ (1992), the conflict poet explains how the hard work of rebuilding after a war only begins once the photojournalists have left: “No sound bites, no photo opportunities,/ and it takes years./ All the cameras have gone to other wars.” It’s true that most photographers are magpies, following one shiny thing to the next. You’ve gotta go where the money – and the money shot – is, right? Sara Terry is not that kind of photographer. In a 2003 workshop, the renowned National Geographic photographer Sam Abell asked Terry, a pupil on the course, “What impact do you want your work to have?” Her answer was simple: to make people aspire to be aftermath photographers not just war photographers. The plan for doing this was more difficult to realise. “I wanted to start a grant programme. It was a crazy idea – but I don’t quit.”
MAKING A DIFFERENCE The result of her vision and tenacity was The Aftermath Project, which Terry founded in 2008 to support post-conflict storytelling. To mark its tenth anniversary this year, a special volume has been published featuring the work of more than 50 photographers from 15 countries, all of whom have been winners and finalists in the Project’s grant competitions. This book is different to the previous collections. “We decided on a fresh approach ➤
Every story of war includes a chapter that almost always goes untold – the aftermath 088
HIDDEN SCARS BY STANLEY GREENE (GRANT WINNER, 2013): Conflict photographer Stanley Greene returned to the Caucasus – a region he had covered as a war photographer. In this photo, a scarecrow and his guard dog watch over the village of Bamut, Chechnya, which had long been a rebel stronghold. It was the last village to fall to Russian forces – and was levelled by the military.
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SCARS OF INDEPENDENCE by Olga Ingurazova (finalist, 2014): Scars of Independence is about the disputed region of Abkhazia, which was destroyed by civil war during the collapse of the former Soviet Union, and which self-proclaimed independence from Georgia just over 20 years ago. An unguided missile launching mount, left in an Orthodox church destroyed during the war (Anukhva, Abkhazia, 2013).
Ultimately, post-conflict images should remind us of our humanity – that war is not finality ➤ to the conversation,” she says. “Instead of a chronological overview, designer Teun van der Heijden and I drew on two poems by Szymborska. Using her post-conflict verbal imagery, we created five themes for the book, and then edited from across our rich archives.” The result is less of a story and more of a visual symphony, the images speaking to one another in a conversation – regardless of different photographers, times, or conflicts. Post-conflict photography can tell so much: the stories of what it takes to rebuild destroyed lives and homes; how difficult it is simply to learn to live normally again; and how hard it can be to restore society to civilised levels. If the Aftermath Project has one mission statement, it is to highlight the struggle of those addressing the lingering wounds of war while struggling to create new avenues for peace. Ultimately, post-conflict images should remind us of our humanity – that war is not finality. We’ve selected some of the most impactful photographs from the Project’s ten years over these pages. What they all attest to is that as long as there’s a war, there needs to be aftermath reporting. But can photography – any photography – actually effect positive change? “The Aftermath Project has always been about starting a conversation – getting people to think about the implications of war,” Terry explains. “Images should spark interest and concern; they need to be free to do that. Photographs can make you care: their primary impact is emotional. Reach someone’s heart, then you reach their head – and then you can get them to act.” There’s no doubt that imagery – and poetry for that matter – can help you think more deeply. The Aftermath Project has been about going deeper, about delving vertically, rather than just skittering along the horizontal. “Don’t just scare the shit out of people,” says Terry. “Be moved, care, and reflect on what it means to be human.” ■ War Is Only Half The Story, 10 Years of The Aftermath Project edited by Sara Terry and Teun van der Heijden is out now, published by Dewi Lewis. For more information, see theaftermathproject.org
ACKNOWLEDGMENT OF DANGER by Nina Berman (grant winner, 2016): A stealth bomber shot from a beach in Atlantic City, New Jersey, 2007. This project documents the toxic legacy of war on the American landscape. Berman spent more than a decade investigating the American military, the human cost of war and the militarisation of American life.
PHOTOGRAPH by publinc larit em potinium vid ces blah
THE DYNAMICS OF DUST by Philippe Dudouit (finalist, 2014): Bibi, Al Hussein, Mohamed and Akli are part of a Tuareg rebels music band, founded by the Niger Movement for Justice – a primarily Tuareg militant group – to spread their message all over the Sahel region. Sahel – The Dynamics of Dust is a visual study of the social structures of rebel movements in the Sahel region, and the new relationships the local population has forged with a territory they can no longer pass through freely or safely.
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TURF We brought championship surfer and model Laura Crane to the City streets where she explained to MAX WILLIAMS how she intends to use her platform to help others Photography by CIARAN MCCRICKARD | Make-up by SAM BASHAM
HORTLY BEFORE HER 13th birthday Laura
Crane fell in love. Her family had recently moved to the Devon coast and, already a competitive swimmer and runner, Crane wanted to ride the waves that broke just metres from her front door. She entered the sea a surfing novice. She emerged having ignited a passion that would shape her life. “As soon as I started, that’s when I knew,” she recalls. “I was like, ‘OK, there’s nothing else. I want to do this.’” Surfing quickly took precedence over other pursuits. Neither track or pool could compete – from then on, all that mattered was the sea.
“I used to surf before school, and I knew that if I could stay in past 8.15am then I’d miss the school bus. Then usually my mum wouldn’t make me go in till around midday!” Crane was frequently still surfing at 8.16am.“I used to see the bus go round the hill and be like, ‘yes! nailed it!’” Inevitably once she arrived at school “it would suck! And I’d started travelling – at 14 I was already travelling a lot – so I was already seeing different things. To go and sit in a classroom, with teachers telling you what to do? I thought to myself ‘yeah, this isn’t going to cut it. I’m not having fun here.’” ➤
➤ Well, double maths or riding the sun-kissed crest of a wave just a postcode away from paradise? Which would you choose? Within a year she was surfing competitively. Aged 14 she became British champion, a title she held until she left the UK surfing scene. Her passion has taken her around the world: formerly a resident of Bali, she now lives in Ericeira, a Portuguese coastal town renowned for its surfing – and today she has come to London for the square mile photoshoot, surfboard and all. I’ll let the images from the shoot speak for themselves. And if you were the wit who offered us directions to the Thames – you and ten others, buddy. Despite the wetsuit, and the surfboard, and the late winter clouds (just the 1,370 miles to Ericeira), Crane is an utter champ throughout; so, in fairness, are the public, whose bon mots lack malice as well as imagination. We attract a lot of puzzled looks (fair) but fewer than you might expect, considering it’s a surfer being photographed in the middle of the City. Which just goes to prove that British sense of curiosity tends to be overridden by British
Surfing is totally unique, it’s not like any other sport. There are so many things going on at once commitment to minding one’s own business. After schlepping round the Square Mile (she wore boots in transit: we’re not monsters), we retire to M Bar on Threadneedle St for the potentially quixotic attempt to discover, via interview, whether there are any downsides to being a 22-year-old professional surfer based in Portugal. The answer (spoilers): not many in terms of the lifestyle itself, but being a 22-year-old professional surfer with nearly 80,000 Instagram followers can bring its own pressures, pressures it might be hard to understand if you don’t have nearly 80,000 followers on Instagram. But first, the surfing. More than perhaps
any other discipline, it is surely impossible for the non-surfer to know what it is to surf. Sure, we can imagine – as we imagine scoring the winner at Wembley, or playing Madison Square Garden, or flying – but despite the remarkable abilities of the human mind, sometimes reality is just better. Even for the observer it’s a hell of a sight, the surfboards cutting like scalpels across the face of the ocean, sharp, precise, ludicrously fragile as their riders navigate several hundred tons of water thrust way up into the sky, human matchsticks harnessing the rolling power of an entire planet. Yet already we’re on the wrong track, because skilful surfing appears effortless, whereas in fact it’s all effort, a constant adjustment of weight and posture, a non-stop calculation of a million tiny elements that change before you can even register them. Or so I imagine. Over to the expert. “[Surfing is] totally unique, it’s not like any other sport,” says the woman who’s devoted half her life to it. “There’s so many things going on – you’re thinking about lying on the board, being balanced, paddling, moving, waves coming towards you;
there’s all these things going on, and then after all of that you’ve got to try to paddle for a wave, get on a wave, then stand up.” How? How do you stand up? How can anyone possibly stand up? Well, you begin by falling over: no surfer – no anybody – can achieve excellence without starting from a point of explicit non-excellence. If you don’t accept this fact, you’ll never go anywhere; if you embrace it, you might go very far indeed. “When you’re starting, the fun bit is messing up and making mistakes,” says Crane, demonstrating the mentality that takes a person to the top – of the wave or otherwise. Even now, she remains an enthusiastic failer: “For me personally, the trial-and-error bit is the fun part. When you’re trying to learn a new trick and you finally get it. It makes sense: ‘ah yeah, OK!’ All that work was worth it, you know?” As well as supreme athleticism and technique, you need a certain amount of mental fortitude to excel on the surfboard. I suggest this to Laura, and she agrees, up to a point: “I think you have to be mentally strong with yourself not to give up, but it’s the kind of sport…” She pauses. “I don’t know, I’m obviously biased, but you can’t give up. Once you’ve done it, and once you fall for it a bit, then you’re like, ‘OK, I’m stuck now’.” She cites this passion as the key factor behind her success. “Everytime I go surf, I know the feeling that I get – that’s why, you keep doing it and doing it for that feeling. Whether it’s the adrenaline or just being in the ocean. It’s the love that I have for the sport that I think makes you better at it.” Of course, the vast majority of a surfer’s existence is spent not surfing. It’s as much a lifestyle as a sport. “It’s the travel, the places you get to see, the people you get to meet. It feels like it’s a lot of people have got such a broader look on things.” So the stereotype of the chilled-out surfer dude/chick isn’t exaggerated? “It’s true. It’s really true.” She describes the community as “a lot of people that have got such a broader look on things. They’re out in nature all the time. “We’ve all travelled together since we were really young. Travelling the world – we all go to the same places at usually the same time of year because the waves will be good.” Yet good waves are never guaranteed. Before you can conquer the tides you must first kill time. Quite a lot of time. “You wait around. You spend hours waiting for the waves to get going… You’re constantly waiting.” At least all of this standing around provided a solid grounding for her stints spent in front of the camera. She began
as a child model for Billabong and never really stopped, even though the clients may have evolved from clothing brands to glossy magazines. And as well as professional photoshoots, there is also Instagram. Initially, Instagram for Crane was what Instagram is for most people: a photo-sharing platform. As her followers grew so did her fame – which brought plenty of opportunities, but also insecurity, a sudden brightening of the spotlight. “You put that pressure onto yourself. ‘I have to look like this, I have to look
When you’re starting out, the fun bit is the trial and error, messing up and making mistakes
like this girl, I have to have perfect abs because I’m meant to be an athlete.’ And it’s maybe even more hyped up because you are in front of the camera. People are looking at you as a kind of inspiration, you know.” She stresses that this pressure was internal rather than a product of the modelling industry. (Indeed she cheerfully recounts a recent shoot in which the photographer appeared terrified by her shortage of clothing, much to Crane’s amusement.) There can’t be many teenage girls – there can’t be many people – who could remain unaffected by the attention of thousands of strangers. You might be thrilled, you might be daunted, but you’re going to be something. For a while, her digital self was airbrushed, an idealised version of Laura Crane, while the flesh-and-blood incarnation struggled to keep her head above water. “In the last six months my Instagram has become a lot more me. I used to be posing for selfies… Now I’m doing stupid stuff. You get more of my personality, whereas before it was very closed off.” ➤
➤ “Within myself I had a change of how I wanted to be perceived by people. Before I wasn’t sure whether people would like me or if I put my personality out there they’d think, ‘oh, she’s weird’ or ‘that’s way too intense.’ I was really scared of it, and then all of a sudden I decided, you know what, if you don’t like me then just don’t follow me.” It wasn’t always easy – “I worked really hard on my mental strength” – and the simple act of growing older probably helped. “I think it was that time in my life that had to happen. You become a big girl, and you can’t be living as a kid forever. Scared.” Now she wants to help others overcome their insecurities. “I would like to start promoting, or at least raise awareness of, body confidence. How now in social media, people are so… not pressured, but it’s put out there so much: ‘you have to look this way, this is healthy, this is what looks healthy.’ That’s not true.” Is body confidence primarily a female issue?
I would like to start promoting, or at least raise awareness of, issues around body confidence 100
“I think that guys go through exactly the same thing. I really don’t think there’s a massive difference at all. Especially now a lot of guys come out about having eating disorders, and all these kind of things.” She believes society has evolved in its attitude toward mental health. “It’s more acceptable now, it’s OK to speak out all of a sudden. People are using their voices way more than they used to. It was embarrassing – whereas now it’s powerful, and it’s strong. If you can overcome this thing, and if you can help other people through your experiences, it’s a powerful thing to do.” It’s inspiring that somebody with so much in life is so determined to give back. Yet while it doesn’t remotely detract from the value of her message, or her personal struggles, most of her Instagram followers won’t be surfers with a sideline in modelling. “That’s another thing I want to also do,” she says instantly. “To explain to people that I have bad days too, you know. “Everybody puts the best of the best days on their Instagram. You put the best bits of everything, and everyone does it… The Kardashians or whoever, they’re always putting the best bits, cos nobody wants to show picking up their dog poo from the floor. “Always keep that in the back of your mind: it’s the best bits for them, too. It’s the best photo of them. People have to know that. There’s photoshop and all this other stuff that the day-to-day person doesn’t really have
access to. They’re making you believe what they want you believe.” Kim Kardashian reportedly lost 100,000 Instagram followers in April after unairbrushed paparazzi shots of her famous derriere led to accusations the official @kimkardashian feed was heavily photoshopped. This life-affirming episode aside, does she believe her desire for digital authenticity is spreading? “I think people are searching for real life now. I think people want to see real. Because the fake thing is getting overdone. It’s boring. “I think it’s important that it starts to be more real because otherwise the growing kids of today are just going to assume, ‘my life is so bad’. Because people will forget what reality really is, you know? Washing dishes – I wash dishes all the time because I don’t know how my dishwasher works.” Dishwashers may be a no-go, but Crane is determined to test herself on land as well as water. “Surfing is my thing, but I want to do other things outside of it, whether it’s presenting TV, or inspiring girls or guys in other avenues. I always of course wanted to be known for surfing, but also other things, and not just that one channel.” Whatever she ends up doing – and Laura Crane will surely find numerous outlets for her energy and charisma – the ultimate goal remains constant. “Helping people. I want to make changes, I don’t just wanna exist. I wanna do positive stuff as well.” Leave the world a better place than she found it, essentially? “Yeah, for real,” she nods slowly. “For real.” ■
BEHIND THE SCENES It’s not every day you see a surfer walking the streets of the City, so we made sure we had our videographer on hand to capture the action. Check it out on our social media accounts: Twitter: @squaremile_com, Instagram: squaremile_com and Facebook: squaremileuk
Still in the Game While officially retired as a player, Frank Lampard has no intention of leaving the footballing world behind. MAX WILLIAMS meets a man determined to inspire a new generation from the touchline
HAT’S A GOOD question.” Frank Lampard
country – or perhaps the ten failures. “I don’t miss the stress at all. I used to shut up shop and approach it like, ‘don’t think too much, just do it’, and hopefully score and move on. You could probably try and teach that method; that would be my method. It might not work for everybody but I do think there are some players who will stand up in those moments. “I’ve heard of some absolutely great players not wanting to take penalties in shootouts, and you have to accept that. At least they’re brave enough to say no.” Lampard has a reputation as one of the nicest people in football, as well as one of its sharpest minds. Even as a Chelsea stalwart in the club’s most disagreeable period – i.e. their most successful – few begrudged Lampard his many trophies. Now he hopes to replicate a gilded playing career in management, and I wouldn’t bet against him. square mile is an exclusively London publication, and Frank Lampard is a Chelsea legend, so naturally we meet him in Dubai. He’s there as an ambassador of nanoM, a state-ofthe-art health facility that specialises in the ➤
PHOTOGRAPH by Adrian Dennis/AFP/Getty Images
leans back in his chair and exhales. “You’ve stumped me!” He doesn’t stay stumped for long. But first, some context. It’s 2008. Chelsea play Liverpool in the Champions League semifinal. The Londoners have been awarded an extra-time penalty kick. Lampard places the ball on the spot. The pressure would be intense enough, but six days before the match, Lampard lost his mother, Pat, to pneumonia. Had he skipped the match, nobody would have blamed him; that he stepped up at this most crucial of moments was a remarkable display of mental strength. Can this type of bravery be taught in a footballer? Or is it inherent: an attribute you either possess or you don’t? “I can only say how I dealt with those things, and I kind of went into autopilot. You say it’s brave: in a football sense, maybe. Bravery’s probably doing other kinds of jobs. In terms of football, I went into autopilot for penalties; I actually really enjoy not taking penalties anymore.” He grins, momentarily reliving the 60 spot kicks scored for club and
PHOTOGRAPH by publinc larit em potinium vid ces blah
GAME OF TWO HALVES: Still a self-confessed ‘fitness fanatic’, Frank Lampard isn’t letting his physical fitness dip despite his retirement from playing professionally. He’s currently involved with nanoM, a state-of-theart health facility that specialises in treating professional athletes.
➤ treatment of professional athletes (prosperous non-athletes are also welcome). nanoM is quite something. Elegant white corridors yield to pristine consultation rooms, normally empty save for a chair, a desk, and a piece of equipment that cost more money than the average human mind can possibly comprehend. Apart from, perhaps, a footballer’s. Walking through the facility is like walking through an immaculate spaceship, or the lair of an unusually austere Bond villain. Open the wrong door and you’d probably discover Blofeld undergoing gene therapy.
I’m quite content to be retired. I had 20 years, I worked hard to try and do as much as I could 104
If you want somebody to promote your beautiful shiny new health clinic, the man who clocked up a record 164 consecutive outfield appearances in the Premier League is as good a choice as any. Hence Lampard’s presence in Dubai, where he becomes the first person to undergo the numerous tests designed to evaluate and improve athletic performance. Notoriously, many athletes find it difficult to adapt to post-retirement existence, but Lampard is not one of them. “I’m quite content to be retired now, because I think, ‘well I had 20 years, I worked as hard as I could to try and do as much as I could.’ You can retire pretty happy if you feel like that.” That’s good. “It’s great! Thank goodness.” He sounds almost surprised at his own contentment. “You miss the buzz of the big atmosphere of a Champions League night or a goal, celebrations, etc. But I did that. I feel fortunate to have done that for a long, long time – and all of those memories, they’re here and they’re not going anywhere. You get older and there are other opportunities, and I enjoy the other opportunities.”
Opportunities such as launching nanoM. Lampard attended the official opening – and cut a ribbon, to much fanfare – dressed in casual clothes, his hair slicked back. While recognisable, it was still hard to make the mental leap from this Frank Lampard to Frank Lampard the footballer – a bit like bumping into a teacher outside of school hours. But then I watched him complete a reaction test the following day, now clad in T-shirt and shorts, hair unkempt, making short pass after short pass while a lot of things went beep, and the instant familiarity, the sheer Lampardness of him took the breath away. He might have climbed out of a TV showing any Chelsea or England match from the last two decades. A self-confessed fitness fanatic, Lampard particularly enjoyed the reaction test. Surrounded by a square of electric cones, the subject must complete a pass and run to whichever cone randomly lights up. “I love practical training. I always used to try and replicate things that might happen for me in a football match. Reaction time is everything.” The trick is to isolate the tiny details. “Where is
I didn’t believe I had made it until I was into my 20s and playing in the Champions League your power? Do you push quicker off your left side or your right side? Is there a weakness? How is your vision, is your vision right, is it impaired, can you see properly?” Lampard knows better than most the importance of training right. He readily admits, “I was probably the second or third best player in West Ham’s youth team. The ones that were ahead of me didn’t make it – either because they wanted to go out too much and didn’t focus enough, or they got injured.” He credits his father for his work ethic. Frank Lampard Snr made 551 appearances for West Ham United, as well as winning two England caps. “At a very young age he made me very aware that a lot of hard work was needed to be a football player. On holiday he would go for a two or three-mile jog, and I’d run with him. I naturally enjoy it anyway, but starting so young and being told all these things – if you want to be a football player you must run, you must work on your fitness. It was ingrained in me.” How do we ingrain the mentality in the young footballers of today? “First thing is the player themselves. They must have that desire. There are no excuses, really, if you are a player at a big club. The environment’s there, the coaching is there, the guidance is all around you. It comes from within.” He cites England’s U17 World Cup Winners as an example. “The hard work starts now for them. The hard work of moving up the steps to reach the first team starts now. I didn’t believe I had made it until I was well into my twenties and playing Champions League football. A young player needs to have a mentality like that.” He doesn’t entirely agree that modern footballers tend to be less mature than previous generations. (This trend, I should add, is not limited to football: whereas millennials often can’t afford to leave the family home, Premier League players are paid a fortune and then vilified by certain tabloids for daring to spend it. Let’s face it, neither scenario can benefit emotional growth.) “That’s a difficult one,” says Lampard of the maturity issue. “Maybe we think that, but when we were 23 we were just as immature.
Well, I do think the world’s changed, though – and we have to appreciate that. At the end of my career, I did notice the conversations around the table about social media and Twitter, etc, were not exactly conversations that I was plugged into. “In terms of video games and everyone with their face in the phones all the time, maybe that leads to a bit of immaturity. I have two daughters, and I have to try and fight the phones and iPads off them to make them do the real basics of life: read a book or interact with somebody. So that’s changed, but that is the modern world for you.” The conversation turns to management. Many of Lampard’s British contemporaries have been criticised for their perceived unwillingness to take a post in the lower leagues. Should a successful ex-player walk off the pitch and into a top job? “I think each case is different,” he says carefully, “and there are lot of different routes to management… I don’t think there’s an exact answer to it. You can’t walk out of a playing career and become a manager anymore: that used to happen in the old days, a little bit. You do need a process of getting your badges, educating yourself and experiencing it from the other side. But if the right job comes up and it’s in the Premier League, then why not? There are a lot of intelligent players, I don’t think it should be a stipulation that you must go down to the bottom.” Lampard is taking his coaching badges: does he have a preferred route into management? “No I don’t… If I get an offer working alongside someone who I’m going to learn from, at a club that would be beneficial, then I would certainly look at that. And again, in the Championship or something, if the job comes up and I feel ready to take it then I would do it. I think those are the options.” Although tactics excite him – “I’m working hard to try and come up with my ideas and how I want my team to play” – Lampard wants to be a motivator first and foremost. “I think the number one is how you deal with the players. Hopefully, you get a job where there’s a certain amount of talent in the dressing room. “I played under Carlo Ancelotti, who for me was the best in terms of man management. Create an environment for the players where everyone feels happy, everyone comes into training, you respect the manager but at the same time you feel like you can speak to him and on a level with him. “Jose Mourinho, first period at Chelsea: same. The tactics were great but also the spirit was great in the camp. He created this great feeling between everyone, a winning mentality.
That’s just as important. I would like to be that kind of manager; I’d like to have a great relationship with my players.” Speaking of relationships: what of the relationship between a club and its fans? As the economy of the game continues to inflate – Premier League clubs spent £1.47bn in the 2017 summer transfer window, and the average season ticket costs around £600 – is that crucial bond under threat? “It’s a difficult one, because fans want their team to stay in the Premier League; sometimes owners make decisions to bring players in with the idea to stay in the Premier League. West Ham spent £40m in the summer – whether they spent it right or wrong is another question. But the club has to have a balance. “[A club] can’t be ‘oh, we must do exactly what the fans say’ – but they must be aware of what the fans say. Promoting your youth is always great because a fan loves nothing more than seeing a young player come through who they have an affection for, a link with, an affiliation. That doesn’t happen enough at the moment, we all know that.” Other than the 2016 anomaly of Leicester City, the same few megaclubs dominate the league. Lampard ended his career in New York. Should football look to the NFL (which rewards the worst teams with prime draft picks) for a more balanced business model? “I don’t think so. If you go to America, you can flip that and say, ‘well, there’s no relegation’. In the MLS, for instance – I know American football is a slightly different concept – you cannot win your league, and still ultimately win the main prize [via the playoffs]. “The American models and the English models are just so culturally different. [Both] are ingrained, and I’m not sure that we could flip over to their one.” He accepts the English system benefits the top clubs, but believes TV money will level the playing field. “Stoke are spending £25m or £30m on a player, West Ham are, too – that was never going to happen a while ago. “We shouldn’t go any further: we shouldn’t let the elite clubs go too much further. It’s important we always have the Premier League where the bottom team can beat the top team.” If all goes to plan, Frank Lampard will one day be a Premier League manager: perhaps masterminding one of those underdog victories, perhaps inspiring a title charge. (A return to his beloved Chelsea is the dream.) Can he replicate his playing success on the touchline? It certainly wouldn’t be through a lack of application. ■ For more information on assessment and injury treatment at nanoM, visit nanomhealth.com
Survival of the fittest When it comes to exercise, recovery is just as important as warming up. Vifit Sport has a range of products to help…
OU KNOW THE feeling – running that last kilometre just a little faster, pushing it on the final sprint, doing those ten extra push-ups. When you hit the point that you have nothing else to give, a sense of pride and accomplishment washes over you: you’ve reached that goal; you have a new benchmark. No matter what your sporting goals, those are the workouts that really count, the ones that help us get better and make us feel like we are improving. All of that work has an impact on your muscles. When intensively training, you tear your muscles and damage them a little; that’s entirely normal and part of working out. To continue improving it is important to take time to recover and take care of your muscles so that the damage heals and your muscles become stronger. With the proper recovery programme you can ensure that you are ready to train all over again. HOW DOES RECOVERY WORK AND WHY DO YOU NEED PROTEIN? The more intensive your workout, the more important it is to make recovery part of your
programme, so that you retain and increase your muscle mass. Your muscles have the highest capacity for recovery in the first two hours after exercise, and particularly within the first 30 minutes. Along with rehydrating and replenishing carbohydrates, protein gives your muscles a little extra attention. Your body converts protein from the food in your stomach and intestines into amino acids which are then absorbed. Protein helps maintain and contributes to muscle growth because these amino acids are like building blocks that are used to make new protein for muscles. Extensive research shows that 20g of protein is the optimum amount for recovery, which is also why every Vifit Sport portion (one bar, one drink and one shake) contains exactly 20g of protein. DRINKS, SHAKES AND BARS Vifit Sport’s new range of recovery products has been developed for an active sportsperson looking for a high-protein recovery product to support their muscles after exercise. Developed after years of scientific research, the range is functional, but also delicious and practical. Available in nine distinct, delicious flavours, and in three practical formats you are sure to find a Vifit Sport product that suits your recovery needs. Each portion of Vifit Sport contains vitamin D, potassium, magnesium and is a natural source of calcium, all of which contribute towards normal muscle function. They are made with no artificial colourings or preservatives and use only natural flavourings. There’s nothing easier than taking a Vifit Sport high-protein drink or bar with you so you’ve got your 20g of protein within easy reach right after your training. ■ For more information, see vifitsport.com
TWENTY SOMETHINGS: research shows us that 20g of protein is the perfect portion for aiding recovery – and each of Vifit Sport’s products contain exactly that.
TOWERING ACHIEVEMENT: The Aeroad is Canyon’s uncompromised speed machine, with multiple Tour de France stage wins to show for it.
Ticket to ride
Whether you’re a casual commuter, weekend warrior, or diehard racer, Canyon has the bike for you. GEORGE SCOTT, editor of Road Cycling UK, takes us through the German firm’s diverse range
N RECENT YEARS, Canyon has emerged as one of the most exciting brands in cycling, with the German firm’s bikes mixing it at the front of the Tour de France, setting the tempo on the local chain gang and becoming the talk of the Sunday group ride. Canyon’s bikes continue to provide impressive value – with performance to match. Whether raising the bar in comfort with the Endurace, offering all-round race performance with the Ultimate, or providing effortless
speed with the Aeroad, there’s something for everyone in the range. Let us guide you through the Canyon line-up. CANYON ENDURACE – FROM £799 When you need a bike that covers you for any scenario, the Endurace comes calling. As the name suggests, the Endurace offers a combination of endurance comfort and race performance. It’s designed to be at home whether you’re cruising the local lanes or
attacking a mountainous gran fondo. The Endurace is based around Canyon’s Sport geometry, which provides a more relaxed riding position than the company’s race bikes. The forgiving geometry ensures the Endurace is a bike with confidence-inspiring handling, while still retaining a lively edge. You’ll find four frames in the range, starting with the aluminium Endurace AL, which provides market-leading value for money. Step up a level and the Endurace CF is made
from carbon fibre, while the Endurace CF SL and top-of-the-range Endurace CF SLX utilise Canyon’s latest design. The SL and SLX share the same tubeset, with aero-influenced profiles designed to offer both wind-cheating performance and race-winning stiffness, though the latter is made from a more advanced, lighter blend of carbon fibre. The super-light frame means the flagship Endurace CF SLX is ready to make an assault on the hills. This may be an endurance bike but the Endurace is no slouch and it climbs very well, with the frame providing a stiff, efficient platform to put down the power. At the same time, plush 28mm tyres keep things silkysmooth over broken tarmac and hydraulic disc brakes offer pin-sharp stopping power, whatever the weather. Get your head down on a fast, flat road and the Endurace is a willing companion; attack a climb and it will match every pedal stroke; point it down the subsequent descent and the self-assured handling will come to the fore. The Endurace is ready for any ride.
PHOTOGRAPH (LEAD IMAGE) by Joasis Photography
CANYON ULTIMATE – FROM £1,449 The Canyon Ultimate is the bike of choice for Colombian climbing sensation Nairo Quintana, who has overall wins in the Giro d’Italia and Vuelta a España to his name, as well as two podium finishes at the Tour de France. It’s easy to understand why – the Ultimate is Canyon’s super-light race bike. The Ultimate CF SLX used by Quintana has a frame weight of just 790g but this isn’t a bike designed just with low weight in mind. It offers superb stiffness, too – ready to handle the power put down by Quintana in cycling’s biggest races. What’s more, Canyon has managed to combine that featherweight stiffness with supreme comfort, thanks to the Ultimate’s innovative tube profiles. The handling is spot on, too. In fact, the Ultimate’s road manners – super-fast and pin-point accurate – help make this one of the finest race bikes out there. The Ultimate is available in four guises. Weight-weenies can go even lighter, with the flagship Ultimate CF Evo frame coming in at an astounding 665g (and complete bikes tipping the scales at just 5.1kg), while the midrange Ultimate CF SL offers a more affordable carbon-fibre option, and the Ultimate AL SLX enters the fray as a race-ready alloy machine. All four frames utilise Canyon’s Sport Pro geometry, which offers a racier position than the Endurace’s Sport, while remaining more forgiving than the Pro geometry of the Aeroad. Make no mistake, though, this is a race bike, and that’s reflected in the choice of premium specifications. The Ultimate is
•• This is the weapon of choice for Katusha’s Alex Dowsett, the five-time British time trial champion available with disc brakes, too, ensuring this is also a race bike ready to satisfy even the most forward-thinking racer. The Ultimate has been proven at the top level for years and continues to offer an unparalleled all-round race package. After all, if it’s good enough for Nairo, it’s good enough for us. CANYON AEROAD – FROM £3,199 If the Endurace is Canyon’s long-distance bike and the Ultimate is the race all-rounder, then the Aeroad is the brand’s uncompromised speed machine. This bike is designed with one thing in mind and has the results to prove it, with multiple Tour de France stage wins and Monument victories coming aboard the Canyon Aeroad. It’s also the weapon of choice for Katusha’s Alex Dowsett, the five-time British national time trial champion. Having made a name as one of the fastest aero bikes money can buy, the Aeroad is now also available with disc brakes. When the disc version was introduced at the end of 2016, it turned heads because Canyon claimed that it only conceded 0.8 watts of drag in the wind tunnel – impressive by anyone’s standards. Central to both bikes is Canyon’s Pro geometry, which is tailor-made for racing by maximising a low front-end. Aero performance is the name of the game here, with Canyon’s Trident 2.0 truncated tube profiles designed to increase stiffness, reduce weight and improve performance in a variety of wind conditions. The Aeroad isn’t a one trick pony, though, and Canyon have worked to ensure the frame remains compliant enough for long rides, while the sub-kilo frame weight of the rim brake bike keeps it competitive in the mountains. The range starts at £3,199 for the Aeroad CF SLX 8.0 with a Shimano Ultegra groupset and Reynolds Strike wheels – even on this base model you’re getting deep-section carbon hoops. At the head of affairs is the Aeroad CF SLX 9.0 Ltd and Canyon has cut no corners with this show stopper. An electronic Shimano Dura-Ace Di2 groupset is complemented by Zipp’s super-fast Zipp 454 NSW wheels, while Canyon’s Aerocockpit helps keep the cables out of the wind. Yours for £7,299. ■ For more information, see canyon.com
THE POWER OF THREE
CANYON ENDURACE • Canyon’s most versatile road bike • Sport geometry • Aluminium and carbon frame options • Clearance for wide tyres • Rim and disc brakes • From £799 to £6,249
CANYON ULTIMATE • Canyon’s lightweight race bike • Used by cycling star Nairo Quintana • Sport Pro geometry • Aluminium and carbon frame options • Rim and disc brakes • From £1,449 to £11,799
CANYON AEROAD • Canyon’s aerodynamic race bike • Used by Movistar and Katusha pro teams • Aero-optimised tube profiles • Pro geometry • Carbon frame, rim and disc brakes • From £3,199 to £7,299 canyon.com
TRAVEL SHOW FEBRUARY 23-2 5, 20 18, EXCE L , LON D ON
Whether you're a young family, solo traveller or have an indulgent, long-haul adventure in mind, The Telegraph Travel Show is the perfect place tostart the search for your next getaway. Visitors can browse and plan with hundreds of destinations, holiday providers and cruise lines. Receive personalised, impartial travel advice from The Telegraph journalists or take part in interactive seminars and live cookery demonstrations with leading chefs and writers.
Square Mile readers can claim complimentary tickets at telegraph.co.uk/travelshow
squaremile The Spice of the Caribbean
A d v a n c e d t i c k e t s o n l y. O n t h e d o o r p r i c e ÂŁ 2 2 Te r m s a n d c o n d i t i o n s a p p l y. S e e t e l e g r a p h .c o.u k /t r a v e l s h o w f o r d e t a i l s .
BAHRAIN FOOD & DRINK TIGER WOODS GOLF IN CANADA
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112 120 124 126
JUMP IN THE POOL . 112
PHOTOGRAPH: The Royal Beach Club Ritz-Carlton, Bahrain
HOT WHEELS: Sandy surrounds and almost guaranteed sunshine make Bahrain’s Grand Prix a hot ticket for fans of F1. Here, Lewis Hamilton circumnavigates the Sakhir Circuit in 2016.
KEYS TO THE KINGDOM
DUNCAN MADDEN enjoys a full-throttle tour of the Kingdom of Bahrain – and tells us the ten things you have to do while you’re there for the F1
T’S BEEN SAID that all roads in Bahrain lead to Manama, the island nation’s capital city. But since 2004 it would be more accurate to say that all roads in Bahrain lead to the Bahrain International Circuit, home to the F1 Grand Prix and undoubtedly the highlight of the country’s social calendar. Set in the sandy environs of Manama’s outskirts, the F1 Sakhir Circuit is a mighty edifice indeed – and testimony to Bahrain’s serious oil wealth. It’s perhaps no coincidence that the original source of those treacle-black riches, the Jabal ad Dukhan oil well first tapped in 1931, sits close by enough that you can almost smell the fumes. But if you’re heading out for the 2018 F1 Bahrain grand prix (and if you love racing, then you really should) you’ll want to do more than just watch the cars. So – here are ten of the best things to do in Bahrain between practices, qualifying and race day.
HIT UP THE F1 LAUNCH AND AFTER PARTIES If you’ve got a ticket to the F1, then you’ve already got a ticket to the launch concert and what’s usually Bahrain’s biggest annual party. Last year saw snake-hipped Spaniard Enrique Iglesias and world-conquering DJ (as well as square mile cover star) Steve Aoki headline the main event held on a festival-esque stage outside the main circuit. But if that’s not your bag then there are plenty of other more exclusive events and artists playing out around Manama. Keep an eye on Japanese restaurant and social hotspot Meisei, whose rooftop is familiar territory for the very rich and ultra rich, often found dancing the night away in front of big-name DJs and live acts throughout F1 week.
STAY AT THE RITZ-CARLTON BAHRAIN
PHOTOGRAPH by Clive Mason/Getty
Although many of the big name drivers opt to stay at the five-star Sofitel, conveniently located right by the Sakhir Circuit, the more central Ritz-Carlton is better located for a visit that takes in more than just the racing. Typical of Bahrain’s hotchpotch architecture, the exterior is quite the monolith but the grounds are a playground of luxury, watersports and relaxation. The main pool is absolutely massive, as is the horseshoe beach and landscaped gardens, peppered with restaurants, bars and flamingos. Make sure that you dip a toe into the Arabian Gulf, too – the water’s always warm.
BREAKFAST AT HAJI’S Break free of the hotel buffet and get a taste of breakfast Bahrain style at Haji’s street-side café. Sprawled across an alleyway in the city’s
The Fort of Bahrain is a Unesco site, and offers a stroll through 4,000 years of human history most famous souq, pull up a bench at one of the heavy wooden tables and peruse the many photos of past Bahrain while you wait. Established in 1950, current owner Suhair will happily tell you its story over delicious chai kalat, eggs and tomatoes and freshly baked breads – there’s no menu, just lots of local treats. And if you’re in any doubt as to its quality, Wolfgang Puck is a regular visitor. Rumour has it that he’s getting inspiration for his own Manama restaurants, both located in the towering Four Seasons Bahrain Bay. We preferred Haji’s, though.
CLIMB THE WALLS OF QAL’AT AL BAHRAIN Capital of the ancient Dilmun civilisation, the Fort of Bahrain was inscribed as a Unesco World Heritage Site in 2005. It offers a triumphant stroll through 4,000 years of human history, occupied as it was from around 2300BC up until the 18th century. And on a hot Bahrain afternoon, there are few better things to do than immerse yourself in some local culture with a wander of its ramparts. Keep cool in the shade of the many arched corridors or head to the higher levels for the sea views and breezes that waft in from the Arabian Gulf.
GAWP IN AWE AT AL-FATEH GRAND MOSQUE It would be hard to miss this vast Islamic centre that counts itself among the biggest in the world. Non-Muslim visitors are welcome, and it’s fascinating to don the appropriate garb and explore its vast prayer hall under the world’s biggest fibreglass dome, where up to 7,000 worshippers can gather at once. A local guide will talk you through its architecture and be more than happy to answer any questions you may have about the mosque itself or Islam in general – we learnt an awful lot in our hour-long tour. The marble floors are Italian, the enormous chandelier Austrian, and photos are welcome.
GORGE YOURSELF AT BLOCK 338 The hiply monikered Block 338 is a new dining district, awash with en vogue eating options. Whether it’s a fully loaded burger from Blaze, a carnivorous feast and a cocktail at Meat Co ➤
➤ (complete with ultra cool rooftop bar to aid digestion) or Manama’s number-one rated Café Lilou, a Parisian-style brasserie with an authentic French feel (and menu to match). As many of Block 338’s restaurants and bars are licenced, once the dining is done you can party until late with freewheeling locals at one of the open-air bars. If you’re planning regular visits to Block 338, you should consider basing yourself at the five-star Gulf Hotel, which is barely a hop, skip and a stumble away.
STROLL THROUGH TIME IN THE BACK STREETS OF MUHARRAQ Modern-day Manama is an amalgam of cities slowly blended together over time by the inexorable push of progress. As a visitor, it’s tough to know where one town or city ends and another one begins. Muharraq may feel like an ancient district of something larger and more modern, but it was actually the island’s capital until 1932 and its tangle of alleys, ancient houses, local shops and cafés is spellbinding. From the intricate details of the Sheikh Isa Bin Ali House to the retro-cool 1980s graffiti, it offers something fresh and exciting around every corner. Get yourself a guide or go it alone and revel in wandering without agenda. Just head for Saffron restaurant to sate your thirst when you’re done and you can’t go far wrong.
easy-going but chic styling and unpretentious atmosphere. But mostly we liked it for the views and cocktails, both of which are absolutely mouth-watering.
FUEL UP BEFORE YOU FLY AT FLAMES Close enough to the airport that it would be rude not to visit on the way home, ART Rotana is a striking resort complex, which has been built on the man-made Amwai Islands. It’s awash with amazing dining options and some
spectacular waterside views as well. Keep up your meat consumption with a stop-off at Flames steak and seafood restaurant. The grain-fed wagyu rib eye paired with the beautiful full-bodied Argentine Terrazas Reserva will see you fully sated and snoozing before your plane even leaves the runway, which is always the best way to fly. ■ For more info on visiting Bahrain check Bahrain Tourism and Exhibitions Authority at btea.bh and to book a tour go to at-bahrain.com
INTO THE BLUE: [this image] the pristine beach at the Ritz-Carlton, Bahrain; [below] the F1 launch concert is a massive occasion: expect big names and an even bigger party – recent performers include Enrique Iglesias and DJ Steve Aoki.
BOAT OUT TO THE AL DAR ISLANDS Everyone loves a day trip, and Bahrain has some gorgeous islands dotted along its coast that make for the perfect quick escape. A ten-minute boat ride from Sitra just outside Manama, the Al Dar islands are perfectly set up for a day of sunbathing, watersports and eating far from the madness of the F1 circus. You can also try your hand searching for pearls in the shallows – the backbone of Bahrain’s wealth before the oil rush. For something special, jump on another boat to remote Jarada Island, a picturepostcard strip of sand that disappears at high tide but is the ultimate exclusive retreat when the waters start to ebb.
DRINK IN THE INCREDIBLE VIEWS (AND THE COCKTAILS) AT SKY BAR No Bahrain visit would be complete without taking in the outrageous cityscape views from one of the skyscraper rooftop bars. Manama’s unfettered architecture may not be to everyone’s tastes, but at night it comes alive in a spot-lit range of mountainous peaks, spikes, summits and vast spinning propellers. We liked Sky Bar on the 20th floor of the Hotel Diva in the heart of Juffair for its
TRAVEL DETAILS Duncan flew with Gulf Air, the sponsor of the F1 Gulf Air Bahrain Grand Prix. Gulf Air flies twice a day direct from London. For info, fares and reservations go to gulfair.com. He stayed at the Gulf Hotel – rooms start from £115 per night. Go to gulfhotelbahrain.com for info. Tickets to the F1 Gulf Air Bahrain Grand Prix start from £125 per person (excluding taxes), plus special 30% discount to £87 until the end of April 2018. To book visit web link below or call (+973) 1745 0000. bahraingp.com
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ISCOVER 2018’S HOTTEST destinations at The Telegraph Travel Show, taking place at London’s ExCeL from 23-25 February, 2018. A must-attend event for the discerning traveller, the Show will be jampacked with a wealth of advice, tour operators and destinations to ensure you make the most of your annual leave. Visitors to the Show will be able to get face time with the likes of Rixos Hotels, Africa Exclusive, Atmosphere Hotels and Uniworld as well as browse the best from Jamaica, India, Brazil, Italy and more. Whether you’re looking for a solo adventure, family getaway or romantic escape, The Telegraph Travel Show is the perfect place to start the search for your next holiday. WINE TASTINGS The Telegraph’s wine expert Susy Atkins will take visitors on a tasting tour of France and Italy through a variety of grapes and vineyards. There will even be the opportunity
to sample a variety of champagne. Ticket holders will get the first chance to book, so claim your tickets today. DESTINATIONS THEATRE BROUGHT TO YOU BY TRAVELBAG Take a seat and discover how to travel sustainably, and life on-the-road as a digital nomad in a series of talks curated by The Telegraph’s award-winning editorial team. ONE-TO-ONE TRAVEL ADVICE Stop by the Travel Genius Bar for one-toone, impartial travel advice from a Telegraph journalist. Advance appointments for this sold out in 48 hours, but their experts will be on hand throughout the day to help you plan your next getaway. FLY IN STYLE Voted ‘best long-haul airline’ by Telegraph readers this year, Singapore Airlines is the Show’s official airline partner, and will be
showcasing their luxury new business class and first class cabins. Don’t miss your chance to sample their onboard culinary offering at the Show. WORLD CUISINE Whether we’re browsing a bustling food market, dining in world-famous restaurants, picking up a quick bite from a food truck or cooking together over a bottle of red, food is integral to our travel experiences. Join professional chefs at the Show for interactive cooking classes culinary demonstrations from across the globe. Be quick, ticket holders will get the first chance to book a class. CLAIM YOUR TICKETS square mile readers can claim a limited number of complimentary tickets from telegraph.co.uk/travelshow. Complimentary tickets must be booked in advance. The on-the-door price will be £22 for adult tickets. ■
It’s a family affair
If you’re in search of a family-friendly summer break that ticks all the boxes, then Austria has the answers – from epic scenery to activities aplenty. We pick three hotels that have everything you need
RYING TO FIND a holiday destination that keeps all the family happy is no easy feat. The beach is too boring for dad; the little one gets seasick; mum hates tourist traps – and the larger the family, the longer the veto list. But one country that has enough diversity to please everyone is Austria. A stunning short-haul summer break, it offers some of the most beautiful scenery, incredible food and wine, and welcoming hospitality of anywhere in Europe. With a broad array of family-
friendly activities, museums and excursions, a great holiday is ensured for all travellers – young and old. Here are three options for your idyllic Austrian escape… TRATTLERHOF The Trattlerhof combines the modern comfort of a four-star hotel with traditional alpine charm and familial hospitality. The hotel is also home to 14 guest chalets, which enjoy the cosiness of a classic mountain cabin but
wrapped up in a high-quality offering. Located in the Carinthian Ski World Cup and spa region of Bad Kleinkirchheim, the Trattlerhof dates back 133 years, over which time five generations of the Forstnig family have played host here. The hotel includes an indoor pool, hot whirlpool, saunas, steam room, aroma shower, floating couches and a grass area for sunbathing. To take your alpine wellness to the next level, visit the neighbouring Römerbad
Thermal Spa and St Kathrein Thermal Spa. Back at the hotel, there are five tennis courts, a brand new beach volleyball court, a riding stable with eight trained horses and a new pony farm. There’s also a 10,000sq m lido on Lake Millstätter See; golf courses in the vicinity of the hotel; and an excellent walking and cycling network on its doorstep. There is a tradition of exceptional food and wine at the Trattlerhof, too. From regional delicacies such as kärntna laxn and traditional Carinthian cuisine to a gourmet menu, there is something for everyone’s taste. There’s also a new wine depot, where eminent winemakers will take you through their finest releases. And don’t worry about overindulging – your stay here is even helping the planet. Since 2015, the hotel has achieved a positive CO2 footprint, and every guest is issued their personal CO2 certificate in recognition of having made their own personal contribution.
COUNTRY FILES: [clockwise from this image] Das Kronthaler design and spa hotel; inside one of the chalets at Hotel Trattlerhof; the swimming pool at Kinderhotel Alphotel. [Opposite] a boathouse on Lake Achensee, the largest lake in Tyrol.
Gegendtaler Weg 1, 9546 Bad Kleinkirchheim, Austria +43 4240 8172; trattlerhof.at
DAS KRONTHALER Das Kronthaler is a unique design and spa hotel situated by Lake Achensee – the largest lake in Tyrol. Its self-styled motto reads “Once discovered, it draws you back again” – and as soon as you’ve seen the resort, it’s easy to see why. This alpine retreat is all about the great outdoors: there’s an adjacent forest and a lake for sailing and stand-up paddling; while the Karwendel Nature Park in the west and Rofan Mountains in the east offer 500km of hiking and mountain bike trails. Take it to the next level – literally – by reaching the summits via the Rofan or Karwendel cable cars, and then paraglide back down again. For something a little calmer, spend the afternoon on the beautiful fairways of Golf Club Achensee. Back at the hotel, you can try yoga or pilates – or enjoy a range of well-being treatments at the hotel’s spa. At this 2,500sq m wellness facility, you can relax in the heated indoor and outdoor pool, enjoy the saunas, steam baths and relaxation rooms, or opt for a Finnish sauna, aroma steam bath, or bio sauna. The hotel’s main restaurant boasts stunning panoramic views over the Achental – the
PHOTOGRAPH by Mathias Prägant
•• Austria offers some of the most beautiful scenery, incredible food and wine, and welcoming hospitality squaremile.com
perfect accompaniment to both buffet or fine dining. You can finish off your day in Bar Zeitlos 989, which mixes tasty cocktails and local wines with live music and a peerless 360-degree sound system. Das Kronthaler is an unspoilt hideaway for the well-travelled connoisseurs and adventurous families alike. Am Waldweg 105a, 6215 Achenkirch, Austria +43 5246 6389; daskronthaler.com
KINDERHOTEL ALPHOTEL Kinderhotels are a revelation for family vacationing – based around the idea of a worry-free and fun-filled experience, they are purpose built for family escapes. Based in picturesque Kleinwalsertal, Kinderhotel Alphotel is a shining example. Since its refurbishment, it meets the strict guidelines of a family hotel with five ‘crowns’. Located at 1,200m altitude, away from the main road, it has breathtaking views across Hirschegg. The area is ideal for adventurers
– both big and small – with canyoning, pony riding, water-skiing and mountain biking among the activities to keep you occupied. The mountains in Kleinwalsertal provide a hiking route network of more than 150km in three climatic zones – offering everything from an easy walk to a multi-day climbing tour. Back at base, there’s a Finnish sauna, saltwater steam grotto, thermium, and swimming pool to help you unwind. When it comes to the little ones you can include them as much – or as little – as you like, as the hotel offers up to nine-and-a-half hours of child supervision per day. The hotel, run by the same family for three generations, offers family apartments with up to three rooms. Inside, there’s naturally everything you could need for your family – right down to complimentary baby monitors, no detail has been overlooked. Schlößleweg 6, 6992 Hirschegg, Austria +43 5517 5449; alphotel.at/en/ ■ For more info on Austria, visit austria.info/uk
FOOD & DRINK REVIEWS
COMMANDER IN CHEF: Tom Griffiths first launched Flank as a series of kitchen residencies in Brighton pubs, but now he’s brought his exciting brand of no-nonsense meat cookery to the City.
MASTER OF MEAT Flank is the thrilling antithesis of London’s new wave of vegetablefocused restaurants – and in Tom Griffiths has a chef primed for stardom, says BEN WINSTANLEY
SK ANYONE WITH a modicum of knowledge
about ‘clean eating’, and you’ll get the same old lecture about red meat: “It’s bad for you,” they’ll tut, dusting off their soapbox, “bad, bad, bad.” Don’t you know about the studies linking meat to cancer and heart disease, you carnivorous fool? The catastrophic impact of the global cattle trade on the environment? Can you imagine how much better you’d feel if you cut out all that needless steak? With a harumph, they’ll be off to a lunchtime yoga class, quicker than you can say “quinoa”. Fun crowd, great at parties… Truth is, though, it’s good to be bad, and I’ve found myself a new temple of sin. Located in the recently revamped Old Spitalfields Market, chef Tom Griffiths has opened Flank – a no-nonsense meat joint, with a focus on nose-to-tail cooking, big flavours and filling bellies. Is it very 2018 to suggest such a culinary outlook feels like a throwback? The dining setup is anything but old school, mind.
Occupying a corner stall in the market’s streetfood-cum-restaurant hub (yeah, that), there’s the option of ‘roughing it’ on the benches next to the kitchen, or taking a pew on one of the countertop stools at the pass for a front-row seat to the action. Go with the latter: it’s not the luxury you might expect from some of the City’s finest restaurants, but this is a rare opportunity to see one of London’s rising culinary stars doing his thing up close and personal. Either way, sitting down to a plate of buttery crumpets with smoked ham hock, grilled leeks and soft egg is to enjoy one of the most satisfying morsels I’ve eaten in months. It’s followed swiftly by another: homemade bacon, off the scale in its smokiness but reigned all the way back in by a tart and fruity plum ketchup. Two salty porcine hits in quick succession, with balance and poise – it’s the kind of assured cooking you pine for among the usual restaurant frippery. Hearty cooking – a reductive phrase for food that takes great skill to appear simple – persists throughout the menu. A nose-totail stew made from beef heart, lungs and whatever else your butcher would normally throw to the dogs is moreish to the point of
sepia-toned memories of dishes “like what mother used to make” (except your mam used to cook you fish fingers, and burn the Sunday roast), while sticky beef cheek is glazed with Marmite, and beans on toast spiked with pig’s trotter. Dishes this tender and delicious require lovingly attended stocks and low, slow cooking. It does not happen by accident. Vying for your audio and visual attention are also hunks of steak – Galician dairy cow, if you’re lucky – being licked by the openflame grill upon which Griffiths works his best magic. They’re served rare, naturally, and come accompanied with the likes of melting pillows of bone marrow gnocchi, blackened gem lettuce and lightly pickled beetroot with the perfect astringency to cut through all that meat. As we continue to grow in consciousness for what we can and should be eating, we all make occasional concessions to the meat-free brigade – it’s true, it is better for us, as much as it pains me to admit it – but Flank is a welcome reminder of why sating our carnivorous urges every now and then is an experience that one shouldn’t have to live without. ■ For more information, see flanklondon.com or oldspitalfieldsmarket.com/food-and-drink
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THE SKY’S THE LIMIT Imagine eating incredible food designed by an award-winning chef, suspended 100ft in the air above London
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TIGER WOODS’ INJURY TIMELINE
JUL 2007 Ruptured ACL in left knee: no surgery undertaken
JUN 2008 Left ACL: reconstructive surgery after US Open win
R see more on
GOLF TIGER WOODS
PHOTOGRAPH by Ryan Young/PGA TOUR/Getty Images
OUT OF THE WOODS Seemingly defeated by injury, Tiger Woods has endured a period of poor form, but, says BEN WINSTANLEY, he’s back from the brink
OLL THE CLOCK back a year to 3 February 2017 and a golfing phenomenon looked set to lay down his clubs for the final time. Tiger Woods – plagued with injuries, addiction to painkillers and the psychological toll that shadows a ‘fallen icon’ – pulled out of the Dubai Desert Classic after just one round. It was his back. Again. Spasms, causing crippling sciatica and immense discomfort down his spine, had haunted the former world number one since 2010, but having pulled out of his fifth tournament in 19 appearances, this time the career prognosis seemed terminal. Golf fans speculated, Woods’ detractors asked why the loss of a 41-year-old golfer past his prime mattered, and event organisers and TV broadcasters rued the inevitable decline in interest that would follow. Tennis will surely find itself asking the same questions when squaremile.com
APR 2011 Left MCL: sprained after awkward shot at Masters
APR 2014 Lower back: Woods’ first corrective surgery
AUG 2013 Back spasms: collapses during The Barclays
SEPT 2015 Lower back: second and third surgeries
APR 2017 Lower back: fourth and final surgery, a back fusion
See the whole story on squaremile.com
PHOTOGRAPHS by Charles Baus/Icon Sportswire; Jamie Squire/Getty Images; Chris Condon/PGA TOUR; Jared C. Tilton/Getty Images; Ross Kinnaird/Getty Images
the time comes for Roger Federer to hang up his racket: when a modern great elects to turn his back on competitive sport, the vacuum is rarely plugged easily. A little piece of golf died following that announcement. Tiger Woods is a player who requires little introduction. The stats sheet says it all: 14 Major victories, 79 PGA Tour titles, and (wait for it…) $1.7bn in career earnings so far. Regardless of your interest in the sport, the dynamic, virtuosic, aggressive style with which he regularly dismantled the opposition was intoxicating. In a few years of insurmountable golf, Woods single-handedly changed the face of the game for good. Courses were ‘Tiger proofed’; competitors imitated his rigorous training regime; club and ball manufacturers rushed to evolve; sports marketers laughed their way to the bank. No modern player, in spite of the undoubted talents of Jordan Spieth, Justin Thomas and Rory McIlroy, comes close to the fear Woods could strike into a field at his pomp – and, as such, the phrase ‘Tiger, on the prowl’ became synonymous with golf’s greatest ever competitor. But in this Shakespearean play, we haven’t quite reached the final act. In April 2017, Tiger Woods underwent his fourth back surgery to date. The anterior lumbar interbody fusion was a risky move (fusing one vertebrae to the other limits movement in the spine: never a good thing for a sport that relies on the very same action) but, Woods attested, for the first time in a long while that he was free from pain.
Fans’ ears pricked, fingers were crossed. Rock bottom followed optimism: a month after surgery, the golfer was arrested in the early hours of the morning for driving under the influence. His groggy mugshot disseminated worldwide by Palm Beach County Jail, the player was greeted with ridicule and sadness on social media. Woods might have hoped he had left the tabloids behind him after a sex scandal emerged from the wreckage of his crashed Cadillac Escalade on 27 November 2009, but once again the golfer was forced to explain his actions, this time to come clean about his troubles with pain medication. Players jumped to his defence, more out of awkward sympathy than heartfelt condolences, as the world’s most famous golfer was dragged through the gutter. Journalists shook their heads and filed their sporting obituaries to a player who had lost it all. Fans turned to Instagram as their new source of hope. The all-clear from Woods’ medical team meant that supporters were fed snippets of the player chipping and hitting easy iron shots in September, but it wasn’t
In a few years of simply insurmountable golf, Woods changed the face of the game for good
until a video dropped on 23 October that the golfing world really stood up and took notice. ‘Return of the Stinger’ the caption read, and showed a healthy Woods executing his iconic drilled iron shot in slow motion. One of the sharpest tools in a young Woods’ armoury, such a swing had been consigned to highlights reels when, uninhibited, he could explode into the ball with athleticism rarely seen before on a golf course. But as the video ended, the ball fizzing laser-straight into the distance, expectation of a return from golfing exile mounted. Fast forward to 1 December in the Bahamas, Woods slings a towering threewood into the par-five ninth hole at the Hero World Challenge. Fifteen feet from the hole, he coolly drains the putt for eagle and finds himself on the tenth tee the leader of the starstudded tournament. Not bad for a player who entered the tournament ranked 1,199th in the world. By this point excitement had reached fever pitch: social media flooded with ecstatic tweets and golf analysts worked overtime to figure out how Woods had turned it around. He finished the tournament tied for ninth, but that didn’t seem to matter. Beyond the calibre of shots throughout the event, what drew breath was something far more profound: Tiger Woods smiled his way around 72 holes of golf. In the last few years we have grown used to an ever-stoic player, grumbling to himself as his body and his golf failed him. Mentally and physically, this was the best Woods we’ve seen in a long time. This was rebirth. ■
BUNKER MENTALITY: [main image] The heavily bunkered eighth at Brudenell River Resort’s Dundarave golf course is short but troublesome; [bottom right] the handsome Covehead Harbour Lighthouse on the north shore of Prince Edward Island.
GOLF PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND
Prince Edward Island isn’t just Canada’s smallest province, it’s a golfing gem yet to be discovered, says ANDREW MARSHALL
N THE MIDST of Canada’s Maritime provinces,
PHOTOGRAPHY by Tourism Prince Edward Island/Barrett & MacKay; Paul Marshall
we cross the 13km Confederations Bridge and arrive on Prince Edward Island (known locally as PEI) – the location for our week-long gourmet golf experience. We’re here to play six of the island’s best courses, shack up in topdrawer accommodation and sample some of the finest seafood on the planet. It’s an unenviable task, but we’re up for the challenge. PEI is only 174 miles from tip to tip, yet ten of PEI’s 30 or so golf courses rank in the Top 100 courses in the whole of Canada – and all are located within a 45-minute drive of each other. Stunning scenery, masterful course design, moderate climate and friendly locals typify the PEI experience, which was recently named the ‘Undiscovered Golf Destination of the Year’ by IAGTO (International Association of Golf Travel Operators). Suffice to say Canada’s tiniest province packs a punch in the world of golf. Our home for the first two nights is the Rodd Brudenell River Resort, situated on the east coast only a short drive from the historic coastal town of Georgetown. It features 45 holes of quality golf in the form of the Dundarave, Brudenell River and the Divine Nine courses. After a night in one of the well-appointed suites, we find ourselves on the tricky first hole of the Dundarave course, designed by awardwinning architects Dr Michael Hurdzan and Dana Fry. Open for play in 1999, this 18-hole championship layout showcases the uniqueness of PEI’s red sandstone with 120 unique red sand bunkers dotting the expansive fairways and guarding the cleverly contoured greens. Carving through isolated pine forest, winding along fairways at the edge of Brudenell River, and playing past ponds and wetland, the course meanders through some of the island’s most stunning and varied terrain. It isn’t just beautiful, mind, it tests every shot in a player’s arsenal. Like the short, sharp dogleg left eighth, with its green surrounded by three bunkers and the bay of the Brudenell River looming long and left. A par four is a good score. Offering a better opportunity for a lowscoring round is the more forgiving Brudenell River course, which we tackle after lunch. This picturesque course boasts six par-threes, six par-fours and six par-fives, and features expansive fairways lined with lush pines and numerous gardens, ponds and water features that surround well-manicured greens. The 135-yard par-three tenth, called Shimmering Water, is played over a lake and sums up what the course is all about: great fun. In the evening, we dine at Clam Diggers Beach House and Restaurant in Georgetown. Typical of many of the island’s restaurants, seafood is supplied by local fishermen –
scallops arrive in cheesecloth sacks and lobsters caught within a mile or two are dropped off from boat to kitchen. Seated on the oceanside decking sipping chilled beers, we watch an intense orange sun slowly morph into a gorgeous sunset that competes for our attention with the delicious mussels and ocean-fresh chowder placed before us.
LINKS AND LOBSTER The third course of our trip is The Links at Crowbush Cove, where Thomas McBroom, one of the country’s top golf architects, has artfully woven a spectacular layout in and around the seaside dunes of the island’s northern shore. This highly acclaimed course is a mix of three styles of golf – dunes, woodland and wetland – and incorporates nine water holes and nine dune holes. The undulating fairways, pot bunkers, knee-deep fescue grass and challenging greens built to USGA specs all come together to create the top pick of PEI’s golf scene – and its most challenging. After four run-of-the-mill holes through a woodland setting, Crowbush Cove really kicks into gear, offering a string of classics routed within a coastal landscape off the Gulf of St Lawrence. Two holes in particular are standouts. The picturesque 219-yard par-three eighth is set among the sand dunes and requires a testing strike over a tidal estuary. Depending on the strength of the wind, club selection to reach safety can be anything from a seven-iron to a
driver. Another memorable hole is the par-five 11th called Sully’s Run. Played from an elevated tee, this excellent long hole requires a carry over a pond between fairway and green. Before teeing off, make sure you walk up to the back tees marked by the course’s trademark ‘black crows’. It’s worth the green fee alone to soak in the fabulous panorama, with sand dunes and salt water extending as far as the eye can see. After playing Crowbush we drive to the capital Charlottetown and the Great George; a gorgeous historic boutique hotel dating back to the 1800s. Located conveniently in the heart of town, the Great George consists of 60 beautifully restored guestrooms, plus a unique cluster of 15 heritage buildings available each night. We excitedly clamber up the wooden steps to the porch of our own private house and turn the key in the lock – our home away from home for the next three nights. After an evening’s lobster fishing excursion with Top Notch Lobster Tours, we wake early the next morning to drive to Stanley Bridge for 18 holes at Andersons Creek Golf Club. Designed by golf course architect Graham Cooke, one of the island’s newest layouts criss-crosses a deep valley, resulting in numerous elevation changes and memorable carries. Water hazards that come into play on half the holes add to the challenge, but the most prominent natural feature of this wellcrafted design is the namesake Andersons Creek, which must be crossed no fewer than ➤
➤ four times during the round. A great hole comes early in form of the 355-yard par-four third. From the tee box, the tree-lined fairway heads sharply downhill, and after a decent drive, a long carry approach shot is required to a well-guarded green positioned in a wooded amphitheatre below. More seafood is on the menu later that day back in Charlottetown. No trip to PEI is complete without indulging in some oysters, and a well-struck five-iron from our residence on Great George Street is the intimate Claddagh Oyster Bar, one of the best places to sample them. Sitting at the bar, we order a dozen on the half shell with evocative names such as Lucky Limes, Raspberry Points and Shiny Seas and settle in to watch the oyster shuckers at work. Monday morning begins with a three-hour culinary walking tour of historic Charlottetown before we take the 20-minute drive to Glasgow Hills Resort and Golf Club, the venue for our penultimate round. Located in the beautiful village of New Glasgow (renowned for its lobster suppers), Glasgow Hill’s mountainous layout offers panoramic views of the River Clyde and surrounding rolling countryside.
JUST ADD WATER: [clockwise from main] The stunning Links at Crowbush Cove has nine water holes, including the par-three sixth; Glasgow Hills plays across some of the most undulating terrain on PEI; the clubhouse at The Links at Crowbush Cove.
WORLD OF OYSTERS The next day we drive to Fernwood on PEI’s south coast for Future Seafood’s Tong and Shuck oyster harvesting tour. Out on the water’s mirror-like surface co-owner Brian Lewis expertly demonstrates the art of oyster tonging, before we have a go ourselves. Using his two oyster tongs in a scissor-like action on the estuary bed, he digs up a catch and places it on a small platform attached to the boat. Among the weed and mud are the jewels of PEI’s seafood crown. A typical oyster will take three years to mature, and any that don’t make the size limit go back in the water for another day. After our insight into the world of oysters, we cross to the island’s north coast, where standing proudly near the east end of the Prince Edward Island National Park, and overlooking the beach named after it, is the historic mansion of Dalvay by the Sea, built in 1895. Easily the most stunning accommodation on the north shore, Dalvay by the Sea was thrown into world consciousness, when the
of this testing 419-yard par-four is a series of ponds, which must be avoided at all costs, in addition to trees than run down both sides from tee to green. The strategy is to pick a side, either left or right and commit to it, but you can’t go straight. A good drive will leave you at mid-iron distance to an elevated green surrounded on three sides by woods. From Mill River, a short scenic coastal drive takes us to some unique accommodation for our last night. Built in 1875, the historic West Point Lighthouse is the island’s tallest – and sections of the former lighthouse keepers’ quarters have been elegantly converted into a 13-room inn. We sit down on our own private deck and crack open a couple of beers. With the waves crashing in the Northumberland Strait and the striking black-and-white lighthouse to our left, we raise our glasses to a fantastic week on Canada’s Prince Edward Island. ■ For more information on the Prince Edward Island golf courses, see tourismpei.com. Accommodation: Rodd Brudenell Resort, roddbrudenell.com; The Great George, thegreatgeorge.com; Dalvay by the Sea, dalvaybythesea.com
PHOTOGRAPHY by Paul Marshall
You have to really plot your way around – try to cut corners and you will get into trouble
Duke and Duchess of Cambridge visited as part of their Royal Tour of Canada in July 2011. On the morning of day six, we drive from the mansion to the far west of PEI for our final round at Mill River Golf Course. Designed by Robbie Robinson and built in 1969, course characteristics include wide rolling fairways, subtle elevation changes, well-bunkered greens and several lakes and streams. Mill River’s claim to fame is that it’s the only Canadian course to host the Big Break, in 2009, a ‘Golf Channel’ reality show where male and female contestants from across North America competed in a variety of challenges that tested physical skills and mental toughness. “Mill River is a test for any golfer, and you have to go a long way to find as many dog-legs as here,” says head professional Mark Roberts tells us. “It’s a strategist’s course where you have to really plot your way around, and if you try and cut corners you will get into trouble.” The signature seventh hole (which features in the book 1001 Golf Holes You Must Play Before You Die) typifies what Mill River is all about. Right down the middle of the fairway
The Great British Escape Stoke Park is a luxury 5 AA Red Star Hotel, Spa and Country Club set within 300 acres of beautiful parkland and offers world-class sporting and leisure facilities.
Facilities include: • • • • • • • • • •
49 Bedrooms and Suites Award winning Spa 27 hole Championship Golf Course 3 Restaurants and Bars, including Humphry’s (3 AA Rosette, fine dining) 13 Tennis Courts (indoor, grass and artificial clay) Indoor Pool State of the art Gym with Fitness, Hot Yoga and Spinning Studios hosting up to 50 classes per week Crèche Games Room Playground
Situated 35 minutes from London and only 7 miles from Heathrow Airport makes Stoke Park an ideal location and perfect setting for stopovers and luxury breaks. For more information or to book, please contact our Reservations Team on 01753 717172 or email firstname.lastname@example.org For Membership enquiries please contact our Membership Team on 01753 717179 or email email@example.com www.stokepark.com
FIT FOR CUSTOM Buying new irons, hybrids or wedges isn’t as easy as picking them off the shelf. Everybody swings the club differently: for golfers of all sizes and ability, custom-fit golf clubs are a must to ensure you’re using something that suits your game. Be sure to see a professional at your local store before you take the plunge.
GOLF ULTIMATE BAG
IT’S IN THE BAG
The 2018 season is on the horizon, which means it’s time to upgrade your clubs to our ultimate golf bag
PHOTOGRAPH by Chris Johnson
STRAIGHT SHOOTERS: 1. Titleist 718 AP3 Irons, 4-PW, £150 in steel; titleist.co.uk 2. G/Fore Collection glove in acqua, £28.09; gfore.co.uk 3. TaylorMade TP5 golf balls (dozen), £49.99; taylormadegolf.co.uk
4. Mizuno S18 Wedges (52º, 56º, 60º), £140 each; golf.mizunoeurope.com 5. Ping G400 Driver (10º), £389.00; ping.com
6. 2017 Titleist Pro V1 golf balls (dozen), £52.00 7. Ping G400 Crossover (3 iron – 19º), £200 8. Titleist 917 F2 Fairway Wood (15º), £280 9. TaylorMade TP Red Collection Ardmore 3, £239 10. Titleist 718 AP3(see above for details)
THE FINEST RIVER VIEW IN LONDON WATERFRONT PENTHOUSE COLLECTION ARRANGE A VIEWING TODAY Simply stunning: the new penthouse collection at Waterfront is the ultimate in luxury, with breathtaking views up and down the river to Canary Wharf, the City and the Thames Barrier. Residents can relax in the sumptuous spa facilities of The Waterside Club and enjoy on-site dining, riverside walks and shopping. Not to mention the on-site Crossrail station, due to open in December 2018, which will provide a world-class, high capacity railway, delivering faster journey times to central London and Heathrow.
A limited collection of 2 and 3 bedroom duplex penthouses available Prices from ÂŁ1,295,000 Viewing by appointment only - call 020 3582 7789 to register your interest Sales & Marketing Suite open 10am to 6pm (Thursdays until 8pm) Imperial Building, No. 2 Duke of Wellington Avenue, Royal Arsenal Riverside, Woolwich, London SE18 6FR Photography is indicative only. Prices and information correct at time of going to press.
www.royalarsenalriverside.co.uk Proud to be a member of the Berkeley Group of companies
INTERIOR DESIGN . 135 COLINDALE GARDENS . 136
GARDENING LEAVE . 136
PHOTOGRAPH: Luxury living at Colindale Gardens (colindalegardens.com)
Naturally exceptional At Octagon, we have nearly 40 years experience and an unrivalled reputation for building magnificent, classical homes in the most desirable locations across London and the Home Counties. By using the best craftsmen, sourcing the finest fixtures and fittings and providing every client with an outstanding aftersales experience, the Octagon name has become synonymous with delivering the exceptional.
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GOOD CHAIR DAY The woven form of this stylish seat designed by Isabelle Moore may look rather delicate, but it’s been created with function firmly in mind WEAVE IT OUT Isabelle Moore’s Elliptical Woven Chair is inspired by the designer’s passion for craft techniques. The fibre used is a low-stretch, extraordinarily strong line that is commonly used in marine fishing for tuna and shark. The resulting three-way weave produces a uniquely rigid, yet yielding seating surface.
TAKE A SEAT PHOTOGRAPH by Jake Curits / art direction by Hana Al-Sayed
In Peter Opsvik’s book Rethinking Sitting he considers the idea that furniture is an intermediary between architecture and clothing. This way of thinking inspired Moore to incorporate textiles and woven elements in her work.
LESS IS MOORE: Each chair is made by hand to order, and costs £3,400. Moore’s work will be showcased on the Craft Scotland stand at Collect 2018 at the Saatchi Gallery from 22-25 February. For more info, see craftscouncil.org.uk
Building a community Take £1bn, more than 6,000 residents, and acres of green space – and you get one of London’s most vibrant new communities
OLINDALE GARDENS IS a major new £1bn regeneration scheme. It is transforming disused 1960s tower blocks and adjacent land known as the Peel Centre – a former Metropolitan Police training college – into one of London’s most exciting new areas. Comprising 2,900 new homes across 47 acres, this luxury development offers residents the opportunity to live in stunning new homes surrounded by green open spaces and to enjoy a host of new amenities. Once complete, more than 6,000 people will live in the new apartments and houses overlooking acres of parks and sports pitches. In keeping with its name, nine acres of Colindale Gardens comprises dedicated green open spaces, including areas devoted to outdoor gyms, play parks and fruit orchards, as well as four acres of publicly accessible green parkland. The growing and evolving community makes the best use of its space by incorporating green podium gardens, which not only provide beautiful spaces for people to enjoy, but which also contribute towards improved air quality. Redrow holds a strong belief that green open spaces are vital for a healthy work-life balance, acting as meeting spaces for people to relax, socialise and exercise. The greenery is also perfect for families with children, who can use the space to make friends and ride their bikes safely
•• Colindale is set to be transformed: more than 10,000 new homes are expected to be built 136
around the playground and parks – a rarity for a development so close to central London. Colindale is set to be transformed over the next couple of years. More than 10,000 new homes are expected to be built by the end of 2025, while more than 2,000 new employment opportunities are being created, ensuring the longevity of the area and its residents. Colindale is fast becoming one of North London’s most popular living choices among young professionals and families as it offers superb value for money, especially when compared with surrounding neighbourhoods. Its location on the Northern Line gives it outstanding connections into central London and the City in under 30 minutes. With the arrival of the night Tube, residents also benefit from 24-hour access at weekends to King’s Cross, Tottenham Court Road, Charing Cross and Waterloo via the Northern Line underground stations, conveniently located adjacent to Colindale Gardens. Redrow is investing £11m into improving transport around the development, including enhancements to Colindale Station and bus routes around the local area. The new community will also benefit from a new primary school, which will receive the first intake of pupils in 2019, with a three-form entry system providing 600 places. There is also a wide range of secondary schools within close proximity offering an Ofsted ‘Good’ rating, as well as the nearby Saracens Multi-Academy Trust secondary school which will open to its first Year Seven intake in September 2018. For children under school age there will be convenient access to the proposed on-site crèche. The vibrant new community will also incorporate 100,000 sq ft of retail and commercial space, including cafés, restaurants and retail facilities, as well as its very own ➤
COMMUNITY SPIRIT: Colindale is fast becoming one of North Londonâ€™s most popular living choices among young professionals and families as it offers superb value for money. Colindale Gardens will become its beating heart.
24-HOUR CITY: [this picture] Colindale Gardens offers an allday concierge service for its residents; [below] the acres of green space will be crucial to building a community spirit – and fostering a better worklife balance.
➤ well-equipped resident’s gym, a sauna and a steam room. These new amenities will ensure that residents benefit from a host of services right on their doorstep. Busy residents will also be pleased to know that Colindale Gardens offers a 24-hour concierge service, which is located in the scheme’s boutique-style reception area. The concierge is there to receive deliveries, offer assistance and carry out other little services to help resident’s lives run more smoothly. FAMILY LIVING AT COLINDALE GARDENS The latest phase launching at Colindale Gardens is the ‘Family Quarter’ – a range of homes dedicated to exceptional family living, comprising a range of spacious apartments and family houses known as The Villas. The Villas will offer ample, well-planned space ideally suited to modern life. The three and four-bedroom townhouse-style homes are arranged over three floors and offer superb open-plan living. A spacious kitchen, dining and living area is ideal for entertaining or social family living, while private rear gardens with bi-fold doors as well as an upper deck
from the first floor living room offer the perfect solution to indoor-outdoor living. Upstairs hosts a well appointed living room and either three or four bedrooms with a modern bathroom and en-suite. Contemporary kitchens merge seamlessly into the dining room and have been carefully
chosen to offer the best of everything: smart matt-finish cabinetry is offset with either laminate or stone worktops, while painted glass splashbacks provide a functional yet contemporary design accent. All kitchens are fitted with top of the range, integrated Siemens appliances while engineered timber flooring and underfloor heating adds the ultimate comfort throughout. All of the Villas offer one dedicated undercroft parking space with charging facilities. The apartments offer a range of one, two and three-bedroom homes, each with a balcony or terrace. Each features a spacious and bright open-plan kitchen and living area, ideal for eating and entertaining, as well as an en-suite bathroom to the master bedroom. Buyers at Colindale Gardens benefit from a number of options to personalise their home, with colour choices for kitchens, bathrooms and floorings along with optional upgrades. ■ Prices for a one-bedroom apartment at Colindale Gardens start from £375,000 while the three and fourbedroom houses start from £710,000. For further information, please contact Redrow on 0203 811 3734 or visit colindalegardens.com
Wake up to this view every morning...
An idyllic collection of just 20 townhouses , 23 minutes’ from London Victoria*, at one of London’s highest points, Sydenham Hill. Ready to move into this spring 4 bedroom, 3 storey townhouses £1,299,995 4 bedroom, 4 storey townhouses £1,399,995 firstname.lastname@example.org Visit our Sales & Marketing Suite Exeter Place | Sydenham | London | SE26 6RP www.wellsparkplace.com Travel times taken from Google Maps. Show Home photography of 4 bedroom, 4 storey townhouse. Pricing correct on 25.01.18.
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ON THE TOWN
Seiko Evening SEIKO BOUTIQUE, KNIGHTSBRIDGE Whether it’s steel or silicon, sushi or whisky, the art of Japanese craftsmanship can be distilled down to one overriding principle: precision. Of course, no craft prides itself on precision more than watchmaking. And when it comes to accuracy ratings, even the worst Grand Seiko has a better rating than the best of almost every other brand. Seiko is pretty much the only watch company in the whole world with complete vertical integration of its manufacturing. We invited readers to an exclusive event to celebrate the brand at its new Knightsbridge boutique. ■ Seiko Boutique, 57 Brompton Road, SW3 1DP
PHOTOGRAPHS by Rudi Netto
Win a suit from Jasper Littman
Diary session: Spring in the capital
PHOTOGRAPH (black and white) by Marianna Rothen / courtesy Steven Kasher Gallery & The Little Black Gallery
SHADOWS IN PARADISE
TRIATHLON SHOW: LONDON
The Little Black Gallery/23 Jan-24 Feb
ExCel London/23-25 Feb
After becoming a fashion model at age 15, Marianna Rothen spent several years travelling, working and documenting her experiences through photographs. Her Shadows In Paradise exhibition explores a female-helmed dream world where characters find themselves – and lose themselves. Join them this February.
The UK’s largest swimming, cycling and running exhibition is the perfect place to prepare for the upcoming triathlon season. Explore the latest kit, listen to expert advice and be inspired by pro athletes. It takes place alongside the London Bike Show and The Telegraph Travel Show with one ticket giving entry into all three.
For info, see thelittleblackgallery.com
For info, see triathlonshowlondon.co.uk
THE LONDON BIKE SHOW
LONDON CLASSIC CAR SHOW
ExCel London/23-25 Feb
ExCel London/15-18 Feb
This year’s Show, which will be opened by Sir Chris Hoy, will bring a vast array of special guests and the latest gear from leading cycling brands to appeal to road, mountain bike, urban and family cyclists. The UK’s biggest freeride mountain bike competition, Air to the Throne, is sure to be one of the show’s highlights.
The London Classic Car Show is the capital’s premier showcase of the thriving classic car community. From affordable classics to priceless icons, more than 700 cars will be on display. Quentin Wilson will be presenting his smart buys for 2018; and there’s going to be an evocative tribute to the best getaway cars.
For info, see thelondonbikeshow.co.uk
For info: thelondonclassiccarshow.co.uk
ASPER LITTMAN MAKES bespoke and semi-bespoke suits employing the finest Savile Row craftsmen, but without the storefront or associated price tags. Its tailors, led by Littman himself, have learnt their trade in organisations including Row stalwarts Gieves & Hawkes and Kilgour. With a penchant for the iconic Savile Row cut, Littman’s philosophy is to tailor suits that fit you infinitely better than anything you can buy off the peg – as the winner of this great prize will discover. We have teamed up with Jasper Littman to offer you the chance to win a superb twopiece semi-bespoke suit. To enter, head to squaremile.com and answer the question.
Go to squaremile.com/ competition to enter for your chance to win – and to find other competitions with our partners.
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WITH 300 HP, YOU BETTER HAVE A GREAT SADDLE.
The new Sea-Doo® performance line-up doesn’t just push the limits of what a watercraft can do, it pushes the limits of what you can do. The supercharged 300-hp Rotax® 1630 ACE™ engine* gives you all the power you need, while the revolutionary Ergolock™ system** allows you to lock into the machine for total control. No matter what you’re looking for, Sea-Doo now offers a choice of new performance watercrafts in a wide price range with the new GTR™ and GTR-X.®
sea-doo.com ©2017 Bombardier Recreational Products Inc. (BRP). All rights reserved. ™, ®, and the BRP logo are trademarks of BRP. BRP reserves the right to discontinue or modify product models, features or price at anytime. *300-hp engine: Only available on RXT®-X® 300 and RXP®-X 300. Performance number achieved under optimal testing conditions. **Ergolock System: Only available on RXT-X and RXP-X models. Not all riding conditions are appropriate for inexperienced or beginner riders. Always ride safely and responsibly.
+ TO ADVERTISE IN THIS SECTION PLEASE CALL 020 7819 9999
TEAMSPORT INDOOR KARTING
Visit TeamSport, the UK’s #1 for indoor karting, and experience the ultimate karting experience. Race across multi-level tracks, speed down the straights and master the hairpin bends at any one of our 5 London venues. With great races, top of the range karts and licensed bars, the only thing you have to think about it competing for the top spot on the podium!
Linen shirts with a difference. Each one has a unique pattern on the collar and cuff made using traditional Indian hand block printing method. The fit and feel of our shirts is very important to us and we have taken great care with our tailoring, using artisans with generations of experience to cut and sew each piece. We are all about fashion with a conscience, dedicated to bringing education to some of India’s poorest children. 10% of profits go to the Akanksha Foundation. W: tobiasclothing.com
HAWKINS AND BRIMBLE
Choose the perfect gift this Valentines from Hawkins & Brimble, a new award winning British men’s grooming brand made with natural ingredients. Gift Set prices from £16.95 to £59.95. Get 25% off on all products when you use code SQMILE25 at www.hawkinsandbrimble.co.uk
LAPHINY is proud to introduce the latest pieces to their 2018 collection. You will find yourself making a statement with their cross body purse and computer briefcase. The highest-quality leather products are designed and made in downtown Los Angeles. Available now on www.laphny.com, don’t miss your chance in getting a 20% off using promote code smile20.
Exclusively designed by industry experts at Live Limitless, Live Lean is the premium, functional support you need to enhance your performance both in and outside the gym. This vegan friendly, natural pre-workout will fuel your body’s fat burning ability, whilst also providing you with essential energy boosting vitamins and minerals. £25 | SQUAREMILE10 for 10% off
Designing and creating jewellery here in Britain, Joulberry’s pieces are renowned for their timeless elegance, understated beauty and distinctive design. A luxurious and personable British jewellery Brand, founded in 2010, Joulberry opened its first Boutique in Hampton Court Village in 2014.
W: joulberry.com T: 0208 9795774
STEPH RUBBO SADDLERY
Steph Rubbo Saddlery and Leather Work specialises in making beautiful and durable bespoke leather goods, handmade using traditional saddlery tools and techniques. Designed for each customers requirements, each of their pieces is unique and created with the highest quality leather resulting in a truly personal product. W: stephrubbosaddlery.co.uk @stephrubbosaddlery stephrubbosaddlery @silverfernbags
Voted ‘Scottish Gin of the Year’ by the Scottish Gin Awards, our flavour packed, classic Verdant Dry Gin is aromatically juniper-led with notes of dry citrus and earthy undertones – making it perfect served neat, as a chilled gin and tonic or vibrant cocktail.
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CHARLIE ALLEN BESPOKE
The third generation of his family to work in the trade, he learned tailoring at his father’s knee and was cutting his own clothes before he left school. Charlie Allen’s designs combine Italian soft construction with British fabrics and tailoring. At his Islington showroom he offers full bespoke and madeto-measure men’s tailoring. All bespoke suits are cut and handmade in his workshop in London. W: www.charlieallen.co.uk charlieallen_bespoke T: +44 (0) 20 7359 0883
The VISSER Watch Company is offering a striking new collection with a high end maritime design while keeping traditional elements for casual wear as well. The watches are made of the best materials available, such as surgical stainless, AR coated sapphire glass, aerospace aluminum, carbon fiber and a 9015 Miyota engine. The unique band opens and closes at the case which results in very comfortable wearing without a buckle. To explore and order yours, please visit www.visserwatch.com
BEST JOB IN THE WORLD
Halldór Helgason It’s a tough job but someone’s got to be… a professional snowboarder, serial entrepreneur and full-time partier
HE BEST PART of my job? Easy! I get to snowboard all the time, travel the world, meet new people, learn new things and party for a living. It’s a lot of fun but it’s also a lot of work. INJURIES ARE SOME of the best things that have happened to my career because you realise how much you love snowboarding when you can’t do it. You have so much motivation to get healthy and go again. PEOPLE SAY THAT you are lucky to be a pro snowboarder. That’s so wrong! Not one prosnowboarder is lucky; everyone has worked and committed 100% to snowboarding.
PRETTY MUCH ALL October we party and travel around the world to show our snowboard movies. In winter I try and take it a little more mellow since I’m not getting any younger nowadays. Last season I had this rule that I had to get ten film shots before I was allowed to go and party. ALWAYS SNOWBOARD THE way you want to and you will enjoy snowboarding forever. Try your best all the time, and don’t think too much about getting sponsored or turning pro – if you are killing it, people will recognise you, then take it from there.
PRETTY MUCH EVERYTHING I have learned is from snowboarding. All my school work from back in the day is long gone from my brain. The main thing that I have learned is to enjoy what I’m doing, try my best and not take it too serious. ■ To read the full article, go to squaremile.com
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Square Mile Magazine - Issue 130 - The Style Issue