ISSUE 105 ISSN 1752-9956
HOW TO LIVE LIKE
JAMES BOND – WAT C H 2 0 1 5 –
THE WORLD’S TASTIEST
THIERRY STERN ON
THE FAMILY BUSINESS
RISK REWARD R I S K - TA K E R , R U L E - B R E A K E R A N D N O W S H A K E S P E A R E A N A N T I - H E R O … M E E T M I C H A E L FA S S B E N D E R
London 37 Old Bond Street 020 7578 9500 Visit www.vacheron-constantin.com
C RA F T I NG E T E R N I T Y S I N C E 1 755 260 years of continuous history is reflected in the Harmony Collection. A new legacy has dawned.
HARMONY CH RO N O G R A P H
Geneva official watchmaking certification
CALIBER RM 011 FLYBACK CHRONOGRAPH BLACK NIGHT Automatic winding chronograph movement Power reserve : circa 55 hours Annual calendar 12-hour totalizer 60-minute countdown timer Chronograph flyback function Grade 5 titanium baseplate and bridges Rotor with ceramic ball bearings Special tungsten-colbolt alloy rotor weight 6-positional, variable rotor geometry With 18-carat white gold wings Balance wheel in Glucydur with 3 arms Frequency : 28 800 vph (4Hz) Moment of inertia : 4.8 mg·cm² Case in NTPT® Carbon Finished and polished by hand Limited edition of 100 pieces
TO BREAK THE RULES, YOU MUST FIRST MASTER THEM. THE VALLﾃ右 DE JOUX. FOR MILLENNIA A HARSH, UNYIELDING ENVIRONMENT; AND SINCE 1875 THE HOME OF AUDEMARS PIGUET, IN THE VILLAGE OF LE B R A S S U S . T H E E A R LY WAT C H M A K E R S W E R E SHAPED HERE, IN AWE OF THE FORCE OF NATURE YET DRIVEN TO MASTER ITS MYSTERIES THROUGH THE COMPLEX MECHANICS OF THEIR CRAFT. STILL TODAY THIS PIONEERING SPIRIT INSPIRES US TO CONSTANTLY CHALLENGE THE CONVENTIONS OF FINE WATCHMAKING.
ROYAL OAK PERPETUAL CALENDAR IN STAINLESS STEEL.
AUDEMARS PIGUET UK LTD TEL: + 44 (0) 207 409 0782 AUDEMARSPIGUET.COM
EDITOR’S WORD “
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WAT C H 2015 see more on
ELL, IF THIS is it, old boy, I hope you don’t mind
me going out speaking the King’s?” This was the exact moment when Michael Fassbender made the gear shift from rising star to superstar. In Inglourious Basterds, Fassbender plays Lt Archie Hicox, a British soldier pretending to be German. He realises his cover is blown and there’s only one way out – death (by a bullet to the balls, no less). He drops his perfect German, picks up his glass, and follows: “There’s a special rung in hell for people who waste good scotch.” Too true, old bean. Throughout his career, Fassbender has chosen his roles shrewdly. Although, with the likes of Hunger, Shame and 12 Years a Slave, he’s often gravitated towards his darker side. In the interview on p62, he explains: “We’re all a little mad and it’s more interesting to acknowledge and portray madness than to ignore it.” So who better to play than the original ‘mad king’, Macbeth? No doubt Fassbender will bring the requisite intensity to the role in Justin Kurzel’s new adaption of Shakespeare’s tragedy – in cinemas later this month. Despite being renowned for what he calls his trademark “tortured look”, Fassbender showed a completely different side at Montreal’s Just for Laughs festival this July. He was playing ‘the Dude’ in a live reading of the Coen brothers’ cult classic The Big Lebowski. He arrived on stage in a shabby dressing gown and boxers, with a cocktail in hand. Not only was his comic delivery spot on, he even took to smoking some particularly, er, pungent cigarettes on stage. His co-star Patton Oswalt joked: “I think Fassbender went a little too ‘method’ on this one.” One thing’s for certain, he’s a total dude, man. Enjoy the interview.
Mark Hedley, Editor, @mghedley Winner, Editor of the Year, PPA Independent Publisher Awards
THIS MONTH’S CONTRIBUTORS
KEN KESSLER Ken Kessler has been involved with watches for 35 years as a collector, then as a dealer in vintage pieces. The editor-at-large for Revolution, he has written about watches for Esquire, GQ, Top Gear, and over 100 other titles. This issue he looks at 2015’s hottest horology. [p90]
ANTHONY PEARCE Anthony writes about music, culture and politics for the likes of the Independent, the Sun and the Daily Mail among others. In this issue, he explains why Michael Fassbender breaks the Hollywood mould and why the ‘tortured soul’ look works so well for him. [p62]
JEREMY LANGMEAD Jeremy Langmead is Brand and Content Director of mrporter.com. After a year as Chief Content Officer at Christie’s, he has returned to Mr Porter, which he helped set up in 2011. This issue, he writes on dressing after work. [p36]
RICHARD ELLIOTT Richard Elliott is a partner with leading law firm Gordon Dadds, where he specialises in corporate and commercial matters. He is very active in the executive jet and luxury yacht sectors – and this issue, he advises on how to get your hands on the latter. [p28]
13.00cts D IF Type IIA Emerald Cut Diamond Ring
LONDON Tel: +44 (0)20 7290 1536
DEPUTY ART DIRECTOR
Mike Gibson, Hannah Summers
IN YOUR INBOX
John Russo / Corbis Outline
Vicky Smith CONTRIBUTORS
Geraint Anderson, Nick Bayly, Alex Dalzell, Richard Elliott, Adrian Hailwood, Rebecca Hand, Ken Kessler, Jeremy Langmead, Duncan Madden, Aaron O’Farrell, Anthony Pearce, Nick Savage, Robin Swithinbank, Saul Wordsworth
ON YOUR DESK
Acorn Web Offset
Michael Berrett, Alex Watson COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR
Mike Gluckman SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGERS
Freddie Dunbar, Campbell Tibbits
Miquel Tubert COMMUNICATIONS MANAGER
ON YOUR iPAD
Caroline Walker, Taylor Haynes CEO
Tom Kelly OBE
Wes Cunningham, Joshua Jenkins, Ben Kippin, Jason Lyon, Will Preston, Mark Sloyan
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104 COVER FEATURE 62
048 . BOND TRADER
OK, so your name’s not Bond, James Bond. But every bloke likes to think of himself as an international man of mystery, right? No? Just us then. Well, we’re getting in the mood for Spectre – and here’s our shopping list.
056 . ALL AROUND THE WORLD
ON THE iPAD
Download the free square mile iPad app from the iTunes Store. Our digital edition has lots of fancy extras, including galleries, videos and animations.
When your photography takes over Times Square in New York, you know you’ve made it. We check out the global reach of British super snapper Paul Reiffer.
062 . MICHAEL FASSBENDER
018 . THE EXCHANGE 023 . ART WORK 024 . THE ANALYST 027 . PROF CITYBOY 028 . YACHT OWNERSHIP 030 . POLITICS
EXPOSURE 036 . JEREMY LANGMEAD 039 . SHARP NOTES 042 . JEWELLERY
Taking on Macbeth this month, and Steve Jobs next, Michael Fassbender is Hollywood’s hottest property. So it’s nice to know he still keeps it real in Hackney – and, despite his dark side coming out on screen, doesn’t take himself too seriously.
WATCH 2015 071 . ANNIVERSARIES 072 . TOOL WATCHES 083 . THIERRY STERN
086 . VINTAGE WATCHES 090 . WATCH LIST 2015
ASSETS 100 . CAMERAS 104 . TRAVEL 112 . FOOD & DRINK 117 . GOLF
HOLDINGS 130 . INTERIOR DESIGN 135 . LONDON 137 . INTERNATIONAL
141 . EVENTS 146 . GO THE EXTRA MILE see more on squaremile.com
THE EXCHANGE ART WORK THE ANALYST PROF CITYBOY YACHT OWNERSHIP POLITICS
. . . . . .
018 023 024 027 028 030
PATTERN BOLDNESS . 023 PHOTOGRAPH by Julia Dault, 4 (shadow), courtesy of Dundee Contemporary Arts; to be exhibited at Multiplied 2015 Contemporary Editions Fair; multipliedartfair.com
T H E C I T Y I N D E X
Things are looking up for Singh Sarao, the Londoner who allgedly caused a £500bn ‘flash crash’ in NYC. The ‘Hound of Hounslow’ will be kept on a tight leash however, and isn’t allowed to roam anywhere outside the M25. No great loss for him there, then.
AFTER THE CITY
WORDS Saul Wordsworth
▽ PEOPLE’S LIVES and careers are being blighted by their online presence. Whether it’s that Facebook post advocating slavery, the Instagram shot showing someone vomiting who looks just like you (it is you) or the short local news item about how you burnt your school to the ground, no one wants to be pre-judged online. Thankfully the Online Reputation Manager is here to save a generation from eternal shame. We are all searching for something. In the case of a prospective employer, it’s your name, online. So you make an appointment with Derek Scrubber of Online Reputations Inc. and prepare for the worst. “First of all, I recommend you delete that tweet about why you got the sack from your last job,” says Derek. “Don’t you think it’s funny I got fired for pretending to perish in a hotel fire?” you say. “No,” replies Derek. “Oh,” you say. “Please also remove the 106 Facebook photographs of yourself dressed as a Nazi.” “It was a themed party.” “So were the Nazis.” “Mmm.” “Are you aware you share a name with an internationally-renowned criminal?” “No. What did he do?” “Unmentionable things to donkeys.” “Oops.” “We can sort that out. Remember you never get a second chance to make a first impression.” “I know. It says it on your door.” ■ ‘Alan Stoob: Nazi Hunter’ by Saul Wordsworth is published by Hodder & Stoughton (£8.99). For more see saulwordsworth.com
London topped the western Europe FDI tables for the last 12 months with a total of $915.1m. Sure, it might not be a surprise, considering the woes of France, Spain et al, but it is still the closest we’re going to get to victory in the Euros in the next year.
CANARY WHARF MASCOT
A seal has become the unofficial mascot of bankers in Canary Wharf, though disagreements continue over the marine mammal’s name. Some are calling him George, others Sammy. They’d better settle on a name before Walter Palmer hears of it.
T O M H AY E S
Tom Hayes has become the first person to be convicted by a British jury for manipulating Libor rates. He was sentenced to 14 years in prison in the landmark case. Chin up, Tom, the chances are a few of your colleagues will be joining you sometime soon.
L LOY D S BA N K
13 really is an unlucky number for Lloyds Bank, £13bn, that is. That’s how much everyone’s favourite bank with a horse on its logo has had to put aside for PPI compensation. It’s not all bad news, as the bank recorded a 38% rise in profits. Horses for courses…
L E F T- H A N D E R S
Left-handed workers have been, erm, left behind, according to recruiter CV Library. Only a quarter of businesses provide equipment for southpaws. We wonder how David Cameron will respond to the news. Must be weird being on the left for a change.
ILLUSTRATION OF ‘MILES’ by Jamel Akib
THINGS TO DO
WISE G U I D E S WORDS by Aby Dunsby
GET TO KNOW YOUR LOCAL LONDON GANGSTERS THE NUTTER The Tom Hardy movie Legend has re-ignited interest in London’s murky underworld. But what of the capital’s lesser-known gangsters? ‘Mad’ Frankie Fraser earned his nickname after his love of violence led to him being certified insane three times. He spent a total of 42 years in prison for various beatings, slashings and allegedly removing rivals’ teeth with pliers. Fraser survived being shot in the head outside Turnmills Club in Clerkenwell, and remained a hardman to the end – he was given an Asbo at 89, a year before he died, for arguing with a resident at his Peckham care home. Respect to the resident who thought he could take him down… THE MOBSTERS Eddie Richardson and his brother Charlie hated being likened to the Krays: the former once called his East End rivals “small timers” who “weren’t in his league”. The duo terrorised London in the 1960s and 1970s with their Richardson mob, while their business empire extended from London scrap metal yards to Welsh slagheaps and South African mines. They became notorious after their ‘torture trials’, where their enemies were subjected to those unorthodox dental practices again, or were nailed to the floor by their feet. Some were even subjected to electric shocks to their genitals – and no, not in a Fifty Shades kinda way… THE SWINDLER Billy Hill – aka the Bandit King – started off as a house burglar, before becoming a smuggler, ‘project manager’ of massive robberies, and swindler, conning hundreds of aristocrats out of their casino money thanks to a gambling trick known as ‘the Big Edge’, which involved bending certain cards. Hill became notorious for ‘chivving’ or stabbing people in fights, and liked to carve a ‘V’ sign on his victims’ faces. He once said: “I was always careful to draw my knife down on the face, never across or upwards. So that if the knife slips you don’t cut an artery. After all, chivving is chivving, but cutting an artery is usually murder. Only mugs do murder.”
BEHIND EVERY GREAT FORTUNE, THERE IS A CRIME – Charles ‘Lucky’ Luciano, American mobster
WHAT THEY DID AFTER THE CITY...
ESCAPE A RT I S T ASH JASEEB, FLOSSY
▽ I STARTED my career at American Express on the grad scheme, which lead to securing a permanent position there within corporate sales. It was my dream job – company car, international travel, and the potential to earn big bonuses – and I was only 23. I was then approached by Barclays Corporate to join its commercial banking team. It was in my fourth year there, while on my annual visit to Ibiza, when I spotted a local slip-on canvas shoe under the name Flossy Style. You couldn’t have called it a brand, rather it was more a throw-away product sold for very little – but it was unpretentiously cool. I returned to the UK and found out where the shoes were being manufactured. I approached a colleague, Luke Charlesworth, and a couple of weeks later we found ourselves jetting off to Spain, pitching to secure distribution rights for the brand. After a successful pitch, Frenzi Wear Ltd was formed and was to be responsible for taking the brand to the rest of the world. After starting and running the company from our bedrooms, Flossy Style is now available in more than 40 countries selling in excess of one million pairs a year. My position in the company is managing and creative director – and I am responsible for the marketing and product divisions. Although working in the City was a very pressured environment, I subconsciously enjoyed and thrived in the cut-throat nature of working in a sector where everything was driven by targets and numbers. I guess you can say it kept me on my toes. ■ For more information, visit flossyshoes.com
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WIN SKI GEAR WORTH £1,000 PRIZE COURTESY OF PEAK PERFORMANCE
▽ THE SKI season is nearly upon us – so we’ve teamed up with Swedish sports brand Peak Performance to make sure you get your kit sorted nice and early this year, by offering you the chance to win nearly £1,000 worth of ski gear. Peak Performance has been making high-end ski clothing since 1986, and the brand combines top-notch functionality with minimalist yet rugged designs. We’re offering you the Heli Gravity jacket (£460) and pants (£370), which both use a Gore-Tex 3-layer shell fabric that’s breathable and waterproof. Plus, you’ll also get the Heli Iris X goggles (£120) and merino wool Embo hat (£37)
to keep you looking cool in the cold. The outfit might be designed for off-piste conditions, but you don’t have to be a heli-skier to wear it – it’s also great if you just tend to fall over a lot. If you’re not lucky enough to win, it’s all available from Harrods, MR PORTER and TrendySports.com, among others.
BONUS B U STER HOW WILL YOU SPEND YOURS?
TO ENTER Go to squaremile.com/ competitions and answer a simple question. T&Cs online.
FABERGÉ VISIONNAIRE I, £170,400 WORDS Jon Hawkins
Price: £170,400; faberge.com
COMIC by Modern Toss
Let’s get the obvious bit out of the way first – yes, this is a Fabergé; no it isn’t an imperial egg. And yes, we’d really quite like to have one on our (not very imperial) wrist. The Visionnaire I marks a bold move into high-end men’s watches for the brand, and it’s clearly taken the job seriously, drafting in Giulio Papi from prodigious horological innovator APRP to add some serious technological weight to the package. In a nod to those celebrated ovoid jewels, the seven dial segments – one of which, at 9 o’clock, houses a flying tourbillon, no less – appear to hover over the movement, offering slivers of insight into what lies beneath. The retrofuturistic case features brushed platinum and titanium with a rich blue finish, and there’s an alternative version in rose gold and black-treated titanium if blue isn’t really your colour. Only 15 pieces of each version will be made, which makes them considerably less rare than an imperial egg but still reassuringly exclusive. And besides, we’re so over ova – frankly, un oeuf is un oeuf. ■
Slim d’Hermès watch in rose gold, Manufacture H1950 ultra-thin movement.
SLIM D’HERMÈS, PURITY IN MOTION.
AM ER IC A’S CU P. B R ITISH TIM EKEEPI N G . Bremont has been appointed the Official Timing Partner of the 35th America’s Cup – and of the defending champions, ORACLE TEAM USA. To celebrate, we’ve created four limited edition timepieces. The Bremont ACI and ACII are inspired by the legendary J-Class yachts of the 1930s. While the Bremont Oracle I and Oracle II set new standards in technical innovation, precision and durability. So the question is, which of these fine watches should you choose? Sorry, you’re on your own.
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➤ Multiplied 2015 ➤
BREAK THE MOULD — Polyptych by Sean Mackaoui —
Art has a serious issue: it’s often seen as unobtainable, something for oligarchs to hang on their walls, or worse, in their safes. But the annual Multiplied Fair is all about celebrating artwork that is far more obtainable, that which is created in editions. Now an unmissable fixture of London’s Frieze Week, the fair stages panel discussions, artist talks and demonstrations with a stellar selection of renowned contemporary artists and industry experts. The work on show is as eclectic as it is exciting, including the likes of Femme Fatale [pictured] by Sean Mackaoui. Probably not the direction most people thought AirFix would go in next… ■
RIGHT ON TARGET
Multiplied 2015 is on at Christie’s South Kensington 85 Old Brompton Road, SW7 3LD from 16-18 October. Admission is free.
PHOTOGRAPH by Jose Luis Santalla
➤ Blancpain ➤
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— By Mark Hedley —
NEWBORN BATHY The iconic Bathyscaphe was already one of square mile’s favourite divers’ watches, but Blancpain has taken it to the next level with the Ocean Commitment Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback, which uniquely allows the use of a chronograph underwater.
ANALYST IN GOOD CONSCIENCE Buy one of these and you’ll automatically be enrolled in the Ocean Commitment Circle and a donation of $1,000 will be made on your behalf. Thanks to your purchase, you become an active player in reinforcing Blancpain’s support of oceanic initiatives. All that, and you get one of the best watches on earth – or, at least, in the sea.
L I F E
L I F E
A B O U T
M O M E N T S
R ATB I N GO E L EU G A NT CE SIN C E 1O 830M E N T S I CSE L E BA M
C E L E B R AT I N G E L E G A N C E S I N C E 1 8 3 0
CLASSIMA STEEL, 40 MM SELF-WINDING www.baume-et-mercier.com
➤ Finance 101 ➤
ASK PROFESSOR CITYBOY — By Geraint Anderson —
IS INSIDER TRADING REALLY ALL THAT BAD? When my team was handling E.ON’s 2002 takeover of Powergen, I got called up by dodgy hedge funds seeking inside information so regularly I should have set up an 0800 number and made a few extra quid. And it wasn’t only my nefarious clients – the FSA has concluded that 30% of UK takeovers are preceded by ‘suspicious share price movements’. Likewise, nearly every UK utility acquisition that I oversaw was announced early because the takeover panel noticed sharp price increases and forced the management to issue a statement. No one ever got caught and the speedy recompense was a cheeky 25-30% profit. For those who analyse risk/reward for a living, insider trading is a ‘no-brainer’. And although I was (obviously) too honest to get involved, I always felt it was a ‘victimless crime’, a bit like that insurance scam ‘a friend’ of mine pulled on his gap year. But one day a colleague explained why I was wrong: whenever an unscrupulous hedge fund buys stock that’s about to jump in price they will generally get it off some unsuspecting pension fund that will subsequently not benefit from the upcoming price hike. Insiders are essentially mugging grannies to fund their coke habits and that’s never a good look… even for a banker.
A COLLEAGUE OF MINE RECENTLY SHAFTED ME BIG TIME – ANY SUGGESTIONS FOR REVENGE? Back in 2001 my bank installed an intranet system that allowed front office staff to inform everyone else of their fantastic insights about the market. Within hours of its birth the whole bank was privy to a certain analyst’s exciting theory: his message simply read ‘greasedupchoirboys.com’. You could hear the titters spread across the trading floor as we all concluded that the poor fellow had come a cropper trying to access his favourite website. In reality, however, an aggrieved team-mate had waited for the chap to head to the toilet and then typed in the offending words on his colleague’s computer. A few years later I saw a senior trader receive a package in the post that he eagerly opened, only to discover a DVD of Shaving Ryan’s Privates. His desperate excuses only goaded his colleagues into ever more brutal ribbing that probably still persists to this day.
❱❱ The key to success is subtlety. You should equate sucking up to the boss to wooing a lady Both these guys had been the victims of revenge and the perpetrators probably gained some minor satisfaction but were the risks really worth it? If the victims had found out who had shafted them they could have got their antagonists fired for gross misconduct. Rather than jeopardise your job you should expend your energy on more traditional banking pursuits; like backstabbing and thunder-stealing from your errant colleague because that hits him where it really hurts – his wallet!
WITH DECISION TIME ON BONUSES COMING SOON, HOW CAN I BUTTER UP THE BOSS? Brown-nosing the boss is an essential skill for employees at any bank but I have seen so many schoolboy errors conducted by colleagues that it felt like amateur night every time we hit the bar in Q4. The key to success is subtlety. You should equate sucking up to the boss to wooing a beautiful lady. Obvious crap about ‘pretty eyes’ simply won’t cut it, though. A relaxed, confident demeanour, which puts you on an equal footing with the ‘man who can’ is far superior to sycophantic bullshit. Birthday cards and Christmas presents will merely result in you being treated like the kid who brings an apple in for teacher. Likewise, don’t talk business straight away – let the subject arise naturally and allow your manager to think he decided to bring it up. A spreadsheet detailing your boss’s football club, kids’ names, sexual peccadilloes, etc is also helpful when pretending you’re actually interested in him and not just his ability to dictate your bonus. Of course, it is always better to be feared than loved as one colleague, who once saw his boss spend an inordinately long time in the VIP room at Secrets, understood. He used to remind his boss of that wonderful memory, usually while in his office holding up the desk photo of his boss’s lovely family. Funnily enough, come B’day, that fellah never seemed to get shafted. ■ Do you have any questions for Professor Cityboy? Email them to firstname.lastname@example.org. Follow Cityboy on Twitter at @cityboylondon.
➤ Superyachts ➤
THE HAVE YACHTS — By Richard Elliott, Partner, Gordon Dadds —
trials and a condition survey – the purchase of a yacht is very much on a ‘buyer beware’ basis, so a comprehensive survey is vital. Make sure that you check your timing carefully before embarking on a sea trial. You don’t want to put to sea only to discover that the G20 Summit is going on nearby and that the US have a battleship and submarine in the area and that a large section of the coast is out of bounds. Worse still would be the police helicopter approaching you very close off the stern to ask questions about what you are up to. You will need to seek specialist legal advice on the purchase process, relevant documentation and on the best ownership structure. Yachts are generally owned through corporate structures. Tax advice is vital. The VAT treatment of the purchase and any import of the yacht into the EU is different depending on where she is purchased and where she is to be imported and registered and whether she will be used exclusively by you and your friends and family; or available for charter. You will need to make this decision at the outset with a full understanding of what the alternatives mean for you going forward. You will also want to think very carefully about who to appoint as captain. He or she can be very helpful throughout the purchase process. Some captains also have
❱❱ You don’t want to put to sea only to discover that the US have a battleship and submarine in the area extensive experience in supervising yacht builds. The captain will play an important role in the day-to-day management of the yacht, including the cost of running her. He or she will also be with you on all of your holidays, so you need to get along. There are a number of yacht management agencies out there which will assist with the management of a yacht, including dealing with the various regulatory requirements, administering the ownership structure, dealing the finances and potentially engaging crew and dealing with matters associated with employing a crew, including marine legislation as well as sorting other issues such as social security with salary and benefits. Once all of this is in place and the purchase is complete, your yacht will need a berth, which can be complex in its own right. Where will the yacht be based and should you buy or rent? Will she stay there all year or will she follow the summers? And don’t forget to book early if you want a slot trackside in Monaco. Just don’t park next to Abramovich – you don’t want to get small-boat syndrome. ■ Richard Elliott is a partner with leading law and consulting firm Gordon Dadds and specialises in corporate and commercial matters. He is very active in the executive jet, yacht and sports sectors and regularly advises on the legal aspects of the sale and purchase of high value assets.
ILLUSTRATION by Jamel Akib
TRIP TO THE CARIBBEAN this Christmas could be so much better if you were staying there on your own superyacht, right? But if you don’t already own a superyacht, how do you best go about buying one – and what does owning one actually mean in practice? Once you have decided to buy a superyacht there are some big decisions to make: are you going to buy new or go into the pre-owned market? Are you and your friends and family going to have exclusive use or are you going to charter her out and try and recover some of the cost? Where is she going to be berthed? Who will the captain be and will they run the yacht or should you use a management company? If buying new, you will need to decide which builder to use. This can involve a beauty parade of representatives of the main players in the market or you may have a preference for a style or known build quality. You will need to look at build times (there can be a long waiting list even before the keel is laid) and the total cost. You will directly or indirectly need to establish a good relationship with the builder and perhaps a designer to ensure that you get exactly what you want. If you decide to go down the pre-owned route, you will find that there is a wide range of yachts to choose from. A lot of buyers engage a broker to help them find what they want and to negotiate the price – there can be a lot of room to manoeuvre. Brokers tend to be paid by the seller. A brokerage fee of 10% of the sale price is usually available to be split between the seller’s broker and the buyer’s broker and anyone else in the chain. You will need to instruct a marine surveyor to carry out sea
➤ Politics ➤
ROLLING THE DICE — By Iain Anderson —
their own MPs. Sometimes, chancellors gamble with one of these in order to make gains with the other. In 1999, Gordon Brown announced plans to sell almost 400 tonnes of the UK’s gold. In the name of “openness” and “fairness”, Brown publicised the sale well in advance and decided to use an auction system rather than sell the precious metal at the equivalent fix price. He was gambling that voters would appreciate his open and fair approach. However, the markets couldn’t believe their luck and over the period of the sale, the price of gold fell to a 20-year low. If Brown was surprised by the market reaction, it was nothing compared to the market’s surprise at the current chancellor’s radical announcements. Specifically, the pension liberalisation reforms that came in March 2014 with no prior warning and with almost no consultation. Surprising the entire retirement income sector by enabling savers to access their pension funds was a decision made with many ‘known unknowns’: how would savers react, would fraud become rife, would the free guidance service be ready? Again, this could be another time when a chancellor gambles with economic chips for political winnings. The policy itself has been hugely popular with voters but we have no real way of knowing if the reforms could have a long-term negative impact on the retirement income sector. Similarly, when the Chancellor announced a Living Wage of £9/hr by 2020 in the Summer Budget, it sounded like a great policy, but we have no real understanding what such a sudden and steep increase in the minimum wage will do to businesses’ hiring policies. Where has this confidence come from? The Chancellor took a couple of gambles in the last Parliament and his economic plan became the centrepiece of the Conservative Party’s election strategy. Following victory, the Chancellor is treating voters’ support like credit in a casino and pushing on with increasingly radical reforms.
However, Osborne’s appetite for risk pales in comparison to the highroller next door. In Number 10 stands a man who has already gambled with Scottish independence, and is now preparing to sit at the European top table and gamble with the UK’s membership to the EU itself. Leaving the EU is inevitably a gamble. We have no way of knowing how the world will react. There are simply too many unknowns. This referendum will occur in the context of a still-vexed Eurozone, a global economic slowdown, and an ambitious domestic devolution campaign. It’s ironic that the current Conservative Party boasts of the economic stability it provides. Since 2010, we have had two referendum bills, one devolution bill, acts to reform both the banking and pensions sectors, as well as drastic changes to education, the NHS and welfare. Any one of which could have led to unexpected, negative consequences and could still do so. But so far, the Conservatives’ hot streak has kept up. But it can’t last for ever – the house doesn’t always win. Cameron will have known this when he said he wouldn’t stand for a third term. He’s looking to cash in his chips. He has a legacy to protect and knows that the only sure thing about luck is that it will change. Just ask Churchill. ■
ILLUSTRATION by Jamel Akib
N SEPTEMBER 1924, Winston Churchill was unemployed. By October, he was MP for Epping. By Christmas, he was chancellor of the exchequer faced with more than one million unemployed. Believing employment would come from a boost in global trade, he linked sterling to the gold standard at the pre-war price. The idea being that a stable pound would make Britain a more attractive global trade partner. Leading economist of the day, John Maynard Keynes, was apoplectic. Wages were now linked to the exchange rate and as the Eurozone has since learnt, you should have an exchange rate adjustable to the nation’s wages, not the other way round. But Churchill had rolled the dice. He sensed political glory, ignored Keynes’ advice, and gambled with the British economy. He lost. The sterling became overvalued, deflation set in, exports plummeted and the General Strike ensued. In the 90 years since, chancellors have continued to show a strong appetite for risk. From John Major joining the ERM to Gordon Brown selling the gold, greater bets have been placed behind the doors of No 11 than in any Monte Carlo casino. George Osborne has shown an enthusiasm to maintain this tradition. Over the course of the last government, as a double-dip recession repeatedly loomed, the chancellor confidently stated the economy would hold its course to recovery. The markets, which could so easily have punished us, didn’t call his bluff. However, at the General Election, the voters did. In the campaign, Osborne and Cameron pledged a ‘tax lock’, illegalising any rise in income tax, VAT or national insurance before 2020. It’s most likely they hoped the policy would be lost in a coalition agreement, however, now they are in the bizarre position of introducing a law that only they can break. This is an example of political risktaking creating an economic headache. Chancellors are under constant pressure both to keep the economy growing and to maintain the support of voters and
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STYLE JEREMY LANGMEAD
STYLE BIBLE Out on the town for thirsty Thursday? JEREMY LANGMEAD tells us how to sharpen up our look for after-hours action
HEN YOU’RE DRESSING for an after-office
event, if in doubt, it’s always better to be overdressed than underdressed. But whatever you wear, your look needs balance. If you are required to wear a suit for work, there’s a fair chance a formal shirt and perhaps a tie is essential, too. But when you’re socialising with colleagues after hours, ditch both. You don’t want to be that guy who can’t switch off even though his computer has. A Paul Smith suit with a white t-shirt underneath will tick both the work and play boxes. And why not add an understated wool sweater to proceedings? It’ll add a relaxed layer to your look. The key is to mix it up with something you’d consider smart.
THE SUIT: The salt-and-pepper weave on this Paul Smith wool suit jacket is both masculine and timeless. Easing the close-fitting silhouette, the smooth satin lining is decorated with the British label’s renowned stripes for a discreet dose of charm and character.
THE SWEATER: Lanvin’s midnight-blue v-neck sweater is a contemporary take on a classic. Spun from superfine merino wool for a cosy yet breathable feel, it is a wardrobe staple.
GET THE LOOK: THE SUIT: Paul Smith slim-fit wool suit, £1,205 THE SWEATER: Lanvin felt-trimmed merino wool sweater, £390 THE T-SHIRT: Maison Margiela cotton-jersey t-shirt, £115 THE ACCESSORY: Valextra pebbled-leather portfolio, £960 THE SHOES: Church’s Shannon leather Derby shoes, £435; all from
THE ACCESSORY: The rich emerald hue of Valextra’s streamlined portfolio sets it apart from similar black or brown styles. THE SHOES: Gents have long turned to Church’s for timeless footwear and these Shannon Derby shoes are a fine example, hand-polished for an unmistakably handsome shine. ■ For more information, see mrporter.com
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THE T-SHIRT: Maison Margiela’s white cottonjersey t-shirt will take any slim-fit suit into off-duty territory and can also be worn with selvedge denim at the weekend.
LUXE LUXE BODY BODY WASH WASH APPLE APPLE & & BEARS BEARS True True style style starts starts in in the the bathroom bathroom Find out more at appleandbears.com Find out more at appleandbears.com
STYLE ROLAND HERLORY
SHARP NOTES Roland Herlory, CEO of designer swimwear company Vilebrequin, tell us what floats his boat – from Gucci to cashmere v-necks ON MY WRIST Generally speaking, I don’t wear a watch any more as I use my mobile, but on the occasion that I do, it would be my Hermès Cape Cod with a double tour strap. I love the ‘loose’ and elegant feel at the same time.
IN MY HAND Obviously, it’s my phone as I have to stay constantly connected, but that’s about it. I feel free when I have as little on me as possible. I love nice pens but I never manage to keep one for very long because I easily lose them. SHORTING – THE MARKET: Roland Herlory was appointed CEO of Vilebrequin after 23 years at Hermès. Despite his long exposure to the luxury world, his tastes remain relatively unassuming.
ON MY RADAR Of course, Richard René, the new designer at Vilebrequin, impresses me otherwise I wouldn’t have hired him. We have almost daily exchanges. I appreciate his modernity and his ability to go deep into the roots and respect tradition, while at the same time being creative. I am also very interested by the ‘no gender’ style which is emerging at important houses like Gucci. I’m always interested when fashion is able to embrace deep societal changes.
IN MY SIGHTS For me, less is more. I am not looking for more.
IN MY WARDROBE I absolutely love cashmere sweaters. I never travel without a v-neck cashmere and silk
sweater. I love the texture, the simplicity, the touch, the comfort. It is all the material happiness I need. That, with a pair of jeans and soft leather shoes. When I am at the sea side on St Barts, which is my home, I just need a pair of swim shorts, a long-sleeved linen shirt and Panama hat. I live for days like that.
IN MY DREAMS Time! Free time with my family, my best friends; time to read, time to observe the nature; time to learn. I wish I could buy time, as you can never have enough of it.
IN MY PAST I desperately miss an orange leather jacket by Helmut Lang. I lost it years ago and still miss it.
ON MY TRAVELS
PHOTOGRAPH by Olivier Currat
I never travel without a v-neck cashmere and silk sweater. I love the texture. It’s all the material happiness I need squaremile.com
I have the same Rimowa suitcase wherever I go, regardless of the length of trip: three days or three weeks. I only travel with hand luggage. I always have the same on me: shirts, T-shirts, cashmere and silk sweater, silk scarf, swim shorts, aspirin, essential oils to cure any health problems, my mobile charger, a few green tea bags and dark chocolate for my mood. Nothing else.
ON MY AGENDA It was the Alexander McQueen exhibition at the V&A – but I missed it.
ON MY BUCKET LIST I’d like to take my old backpack and travel around the world like I did when I was in my 20s. That’s the dream right there. ■ For more information, see vilebrequin.com
AN EYE FOR DETAIL
Archibald Optics offers stylish design and Japanese craftsmanship at a reasonable price
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OW DO YOU disrupt luxury? It’s a challenge
that Rohan Dhir, the founder of Londonbased eyewear label Archibald Optics, takes very seriously indeed. The fashion world is notorious for its markups – inflated prices that generally increase with the offering. “The higher the item’s production cost, the more it’s going to be marked up,” explains Dhir. “It’s simple economics to factor in the risk. But the question is – can we challenge that?” The margins in eyewear can be even more cynical than in the fashion industry at large. By the time you factor in lenses, you could be facing a 1,500% markup for a pair of glasses. The first step was to cut out operational costs by selling direct online. “Our approach wasn’t to pander to a price point and say ‘this is the price we want to sell at, and this is the profit we want – so what is our budget?’ Instead, we set out to create a product that rivals that of the most luxurious optical shops in the world while keeping markups to a minimum by cutting out the middle man”. But to beat the competition, the product had to stand on its own two feet: “You can buy the best ingredients but a master chef will always create something better than an untrained novice,” says Dhir. But it wasn’t an easy task to convince the chosen craftsmen to work with Dhir at first: “Japan has its own customs and ways of working.” But it was worth the effort, he says: “I have never seen people so dedicated to a craft. There is an emphasis there on achieving ‘shokunin’ status – the highest honour a Japanese craftsman can receive – and that is who we work with.” Each pair of Archibald Optics glasses are handcrafted in Japan and fitted with UltraThin prescription lenses, which are some of the highest quality available, and comes with all the coatings and trimmings expected. “Imagine I told you I could get you a tailored suit made from the finest fabric and by the finest tailor, for the price of something from M&S – that is basically what we are doing”. What about trying the glasses on before you buy them? Archibald offers a free tryon service that allows you to try your three favourite styles at home with no commitment. “There was a time when to get the best pair of shoes, you would travel to the best cobbler. Before there were brands and middle men, there was just the cobbler. We are making master craftsmanship accessible again”. It’s an ambitious return to tradition, but with a collaboration with Savile Row tailor Richard James on the horizon, it seems people within the industry are starting to take note. ■
Find out more at archibaldoptics.com
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INTO THE BLUE
Ever since Kate Middleton was given a sapphire engagement ring, the precious stone has rarely been so in vogue. We’re feeling blue… ▽ GRAFF With 61.67cts of fine white diamonds, and a rare collection of sapphires (48.25cts in total), this striking necklace has a real impact. Anne-Eva Geffroy, design director at Graff, explains what makes it so remarkable: “Each pillar is positioned at a different height to give the piece rhythm and flow, a process which breathes life into the piece. The jewels are set into bespoke articulated collets to ensure the necklace lays perfectly on the neckline. The result is a balanced jewel that is both bold and feminine.” graffdiamonds.com
Part of Boddles’ Circus collection, the spherical design of these drop earrings is inspired by the origins of the word, derived from the Greek for ‘circle’. They combine 1.33cts of sapphires, 1.32cts of main diamonds and 0.67cts of tiny diamonds, mounted on 18ct white gold. boodles.com
A cocktail ring with a serious gemstone count: four aquamarines, nine sapphires, and no fewer than 349 diamonds. Part of the Harry Winston Secret Wonder collection, the clue to the twist is in the name – flip the face to reveal a diamond-only side. A very, very luxurious two-for-one. harrywinston.com
△ BENTLEY & SKINNER This old-school British brand knows a thing or two about jewels – it not only has two royal warrants, but was responsible for Damien Hirst’s iconic diamondencrusted skull. These drop earrings do not buck the trend for stunning quality: the main sapphires set in each are an impressive 2.5cts. bentley-skinner.co.uk
PHOTOGRAPHS Backes & Strauss by Rumen Mitchinov ; Cartier by Nils Herrmann
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
Techincal perfection and sleek design combine to stunning effect in this Fabergé ring. The piece is part of the legendary jeweller’s Devotion collection, intended to celebrate lifetime events, milestones and memorable moments. We’d say that this sizeable sapphire does just that. faberge.com
If you like your stones to make a statement, the Romanov bracelet from the Etourdissant Cartier collection is for you. A mind-boggling 197.80crt, cushion-shaped sapphire from Ceylon sits in the centre of an array of diamonds and carved rock crystal to create a breathtaking piece. cartier.co.uk
There are a total 60 sapphires and 58 diamonds sourrounding the central oval sapphires (2.60cts and 2.64cts respectively) in these Couronne De Salomon earrings from Van Cleef & Arpels. The star motif adds an extra edge of sparkle, as if they weren’t dazzling enough already. vancleefarpels.com
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JEWELLERY THOMAS SABO
ROCK CHIC With her signature boho-meetsBrit-chic style, Georgia May Jagger makes the perfect choice as face of innovative jewellery brand Thomas Sabo. Here, she shares her favourite pieces What are your go-to jewellery pieces? My Thomas Sabo Love Bridge bracelets as they are perfect for stacking up and I can change the colours to suit my mood. I also can’t live without rings, I stack a lot of thin ones up to make a statement. What would you buy from the Thomas Sabo collection for your other half? I’ve bought him a personalised Love Bridge bracelet already but I would also get him a Unity bracelet from the new AW15 Collection. Do you ever borrow jewellery from your mother [Jerry Hall]? My mother’s collection of costume jewellery is very impressive and I often borrow from it. Did you always want to be a model? No, I didn’t want to be a model it just happened slowly over time. My mum is very supportive of my modelling career, she has always told me the golden rules are to be on time and be nice to everyone! You’re model mates with Cara Delevingne and Suki Waterhouse. Have you ever had a ‘blue steel’-off?’ Um… no! Coco Chanel famously said before leaving the house, a lady should look in the mirror and remove one accessory. What’s your style mantra? Mine would be to take ten accessories off! I’m definitely a ‘more is more’ person with accessories. I’m not sure Coco would agree. ■ For more information, see thomassabo.com
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BOND TRADER . 048 ALL AROUND THE WORLD . 056 MICHAEL FASSBENDER . 062
TOWER POWER . 056 PHOTOGRAPH by Paul Reiffer
BOND TRADER YOU MAY NOT YET HAVE MASTERED THE QUICK-WITTED DOUBLE ENTENDRE OR THE UNCANNY KNACK OF BEDDING BEAUTIFUL WOMEN, BUT DON’T LET THAT PUT YOU OFF. YOU CAN STILL LIVE LIKE JAMES BOND: JUST THROW MONEY AT THE PROBLEM…
THE CAR ASTON MARTIN
Last year, Aston Martin celebrated its 50-year partnership with the Bond films franchise, which started with the DB5 driven by Sean Connery in Goldfinger. Unfortunately, the DB10 designed for Daniel Craig in Spectre isn’t available for mere mortals to buy (not yet, anyway). But the next best thing from the Gaydon gang has to be the new DB9 GT. It’s the most powerful iteration of the DB9 yet – pumping out 547PS and 620Nm of torque from its 6.0-litre V12 engine. The result is 62mph in 4.5 seconds, and a top speed of 183mph. Do be careful with it, Bond… £140,000; astonmartin.com
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CHASE PERFECTION CAPTURE EXCELLENCE. Our craftsmen navigate over two hundred manual processes in order to individually hand craft each Archibald Optics frame at our facilities in Fukui, Japan. Their meticulous attention to detail allows us to breathe life into designs which celebrate the maverick British spirit that inspires our collection. When ordered, each pair is fitted with the very finest customised lenses and delivered direct to your door from Japan. Perfection might be unattainable - but in its chase, we capture excellence.
Exclusively available at www.archibaldoptics.com
THE WATCH OMEGA SEAMASTER 300 ‘SPECTRE’
Worn in the movie by Bond himself, the limited-edition Omega Seamaster 300 Spectre has the film logo on the back, and a 12-hour scale so that time can be kept with any country in the world, making it an essential piece of kit for ensuring punctual arrivals at all those late-night assignations you’ve got arranged with Russian spies. Or for checking if you’re late to pick up the kids. Only 7,007 pieces will be produced. £4,785; omegawatches.com
PHOTOGRAPH by Frasershot Studios (shoes)
THE MARTINI SET
CROCKETT & JONES CAMBERLEY BOOTS, £460
ASTON MARTIN MARTINI SET, £7,850
TOM FORD SNOWDON, £157.95
You’d expect Bond to opt for a classic British brand when it comes to footwear, and true to form, the cobbler of choice in Spectre is stalwart of the UK’s high-end shoe scene, Crockett & Jones.
Produced by one of the UK’s finest siversmiths Grant Macdonald, this set takes more than 30 hours to craft by hand. If ever there were an apt vessel in which to shake your martini Bond-style, this is it.
Mr Craig is decked-out in bespoke Tom Ford for much of the movie, but steal a slice of Spectre style for yourself with these sunglasses from the designer. They’re great for looking incognito, too. Honest.
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THE HOTEL BAGLIONI HOTEL REGINA
Bond is on location in Rome in Spectre, but even a secret agent needs somewhere to rest his head after a high-octane car chase through a city. The Baglioni Hotel Regina is a suiltably swanky choice, with its classical façade, marble floors, discreet service and old-world air of elegance. Plus, it’s located on Via Veneto, a location referenced in On Her Majesty’s Secret Service (although you’d be forgiven for not remembering that). baglionihotels.com
DANNER MOUNTAIN LIGHT BOOTS, £236.97
FLORIS NO.89, FROM £55
GLOBE-TROTTER PROPELLOR BAG, £1,210
Spectre sees Bond urgently traversing the snowy terrain of Austria. If you’re going to find yourself in similar conditions, you’ll need a sturdy pair of boots. This pair from Danner mean business.
A personal favoruite of Ian Fleming, Floris’s No.89 is a quintessentially English fragrance, combining citrus and spice. Crucially, it also comes in travel-size: handy for those secret missions.
This canvas overnight bag from Globe-Trotter is inspired by nostalgic adventure travel, and therefore a very appropriate choice for transporting your spy kit (or jeans and wash bag) around the globe safely. globe-trotter.com
THE WHISKY MACALLAN
PHOTOGRAPH (Macallan) by Mario Testino
In Skyfall, Bond and villian Silva make a poignant toast to ‘the women they love’ with a glass of 50-year-old Macallan. What better way to channel the spirit of 007, then, than with a drop of one of Scotland’s – if not the world’s – finest whiskies. Javier Bardem may not be available to raise the other glass this time, though.
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ALL AROUND THE WORLD PHOTOGRAPHER PAUL REIFFER MANIPULATES IMAGES OF THE WORLD’S MOST IMPRESSIVE CITYSCAPES INTO SPEHRICAL FORMS SO STRIKING THEY RECENTLY LIT UP THE MARKETSITE TOWER IN TIMES SQUARE
GLOBAL TAKEOVER: This summer, the iconic MarketSite Tower on the corner of New York’s Times Square broadcast the work of British photographer Paul Reiffer. His (somewhat ironically titled) Tiny Planets series was emitted on the huge 10,000 sq ft of signage made up of 19 million LEDs as part of WPP’s Brandz Top 100 promotion. In this shot, he has transformed a panorama of Dubai into a glittering circular cityscape. Aside from being visually arresting, it highlights just how remarkable the city has become – you certainly can’t miss the world’s tallest building.
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YOU SPIN ME RIGHT ROUND: Paul uses one of the most advanced medium format cameras in the world to enable him to capture extreme levels of detail in every photograph. The multiaward winning photographer has applied his unique treatment to images of Singapore (left), and, in this shot, Sydney.
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FULL CIRCLE: New York (left), is rolled into a neat ball, while in this shot, San Francisco’s Golden Gate Bridge is twisted into a gravitydefying spiral. The original images are flat panoramic shots manipulated in Photoshop with a radial warp stretching the top part, and compressing the bottom of the image). Like what you see? Prints of Paul’s shots are available to buy for £65 from paulreiffer.com
WATCH MAN: Michael Fassbender wears an IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph, £4,600, available from The Watch Gallery; thewatch gallery.com
FROM MACBETH TO STEVE JOBS, MICHAEL FASSBENDER ISN’T AFRAID TO TAKE ON DIFFICULT ROLES. AND, AS ANTHONY PEARCE DISCOVERS, HE’S NOT SHY OF A KARAOKE MIC EITHER
ICHAEL FASSBENDER HAS become one
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of the world’s biggest stars, yet he’s still humble enough to appear in an independent art-house film or on stage at a comedy festival for a one-off reading of a cult classic. He’s Hollywood, but with a twist of Hackney. In fact, he even has a flat in the latter. It’s easy to forget that the 38-year-old started his film career as an action hero – a spear-wielding Spartan in 300, the fantasy epic (with the emphasis on ‘epic’). Before that, he caught the eye with his turn in Steven Spielberg and Tom Hanks’ Band Of Brothers TV mini-series. But his association with Steve McQueen – avant-garde artist turned ➤
➤ Oscar-winning director – along with a series of exceptional career moves mean that he’s now rightly considered to be one of the finest actors of his generation. Turns in X-Men and Prometheus haven’t nulled Fassbender’s penchant for the leftfield. And even the characters he plays in the bigger films have a touch of danger about them. When it comes to his career choices, he puts it succinctly: “I like taking risks.” Today he’s here to discuss the upcoming Macbeth movie adaptation, in which he plays the titular character alongside the incomparable Marion Cotillard. Shakespeare is a whole new ball game for the Germanborn, Irish-raised star. Actors often talk of taking on challenging roles, but Fassbender picks characters that are as challenging for the audience as they are for him. You rarely like someone he is portraying. In person, he’s bright, chatty and enthusiastic, which is slightly disarming. You’re used to seeing him playing unspeakably horrible or, at best, violently conflicted characters on the big screen. Compared to Shame and 12 Years a Slave, his latest role is almost light-hearted. “It was a great opportunity to play Macbeth,” Fassbender says. “It was a rare privilege for me to be able to do a Shakespeare play and Macbeth happens to be my favourite of his works. Both the language itself and the character are so daunting that it’s almost as if you’re being dared to take it on. I like taking risks, and this was one I couldn’t pass up.” He admits, though, that it was never a dream of his to do Shakespeare – and considers himself far from being a theatre actor, which is a surprise, given his pedigree. “I had done Shakespeare in drama school and never really imagined that I would do a stage production or work on a film adaptation.
I saw Macbeth as an opportunity to do something very different from my other work It was quite accidental but I saw Macbeth as an opportunity to do something very different from my other work of late. “Reading the lines in iambic pentameter was one of the more difficult aspects of mastering the text. I would keep repeating the lines over and over until I felt that I had mastered the rhythm,” he says. “I approached Shakespeare’s text as if it were music; you try to make the melody part of your speech pattern. But my thinking was that the rhythm is there to amplify the meaning and emotions of the words and in the process of acting I hope that I got the rhythm right. “I wouldn’t consider myself a theatre actor by any means. I did some popular theatre, including an adaptation of Quentin Tarantino’s Reservoir Dogs when I was around 18 years old. Playing Macbeth is a far more difficult proposition than anything I ever did in theatre when I was younger.” He reserves special praise for Cotillard, his French co-star. “I was very impressed by how brave she was to do Shakespeare given that she’s French-speaking and has to master a particularly difficult form of English speech. “I can’t imagine myself speaking French in an adaptation of Voltaire, for example!” he laughs. “Marion does a brilliant job, though. She makes the process seem so natural and
she brings an incredible intensity and subtlety to her work. She is also so present in her acting that it’s almost frightening.” He chats away about his passions – Formula 1, karting, motorbikes – drawing further contrast to the dark art he produces. So how is someone so sprightly so keen to play such macabre roles? “It might be because I’m really mad myself!” he laughs. “But I’m not mad enough to allow that to destroy me. I think we’re all a little mad and it’s more interesting to acknowledge and portray madness than to ignore it. If you look at how we behave on this planet there is no doubt that madness is everywhere. “When I look at the roles I seem to be drawn to, you can see something of a recurring pattern at work. I don’t know whether directors or producers see me as a tortured soul. Maybe they do? I guess I have that tortured look about me. I think it’s time for me to start doing more comedies...” Of course, one of Fassbender’s bestreceived roles so far was a comedic one: the titular Frank, based loosely on Chris Sievey’s Frank Sidebottom musician persona, but even that had its fair share of dark moments. It points towards the fact that his characters are never one-dimensional: they’re often conflicted and compulsive, the tortured or the torturers. There’s no escaping that his darkest (and arguably most famous) moments to date have been in McQueen films: as the sadistic slave owner in 12 Years A Slave, the sex-addicted high-flyer in Shame and Bobby Sands, the IRA leader starving himself in Hunger. It’s testament to his acting ability – and McQueen’s direction – that the characters are so different, but each of them are propelled by something: be it hate, love, lust, politics, anger or all five. He denies that he spends too much time contemplating how tormented a character is before he agrees to play a role, but it’s clearly something that he’s drawn to. All this darkness – does it ever worry his parents? What do they think of his acting career? “My parents are especially proud of my work,” he says, before revealing how differently things could have turned out. “After I abandoned the idea of being a guitarist in a heavy metal band, they were rather nervous when I told them I wanted to be an actor. They didn’t see it as a secure profession. They were relieved when I finally started to have some success and now they’re retired they often come to visit me on set. That means a lot.” Fassbender is regarded as a sex symbol even though he often plays rather unappealing characters. Although it’s a strange contradiction, he’s not too bothered about it.
POWER TRIP: Michael Fassbender as Shakespeare’s tragic king, Macbeth; The actor will take on the role of head of a different kind of empire - Apple - when he plays Steve Jobs in the eponymous film out later this year (below, left).
PHOTOGRAPHS (Macbeth) ©Jonathan Olley/See-Saw Films / (Steve Jobs) Universal Pictures
It’s not exactly a status with many downsides. “I’m happy in my skin, and I never think about whether my characters are unsympathetic or tormented in terms of wanting to play those kinds of roles. I look at every part as a way of expressing different aspects of their humanity,” he says. “I have no vanity when it comes to that. That’s what I love so much about acting – the ability to submerge your ego into that of another person. “And the whole notion of being a sex symbol is a bit frightening and ridiculous – although it suits me!” he laughs. Born in Heidelberg, Germany and raised in Killarney, Ireland, the 38-year-old actor got his first break in Band of Brothers (2001), and then went on to appear in both series of Hex on Sky One. From there he appeared in a few plays and even a Cooper Temple Clause music video. Soon after he found mainstream success as Stelios, a young Spartan warrior, in 300.
Recently he’s made the move towards production and worked on Slow West – a western directed by John Maclean (formerly keyboard player in the short-lived but critically hailed Beta Band), which certainly hasn’t done his indie credentials any harm. As you might suspect, Fassbender is more New York than LA – and splits his time between there and his London flat in Hackney. He’s been dating Alicia Vikander, the fastrising Swedish actress he met on the set on The Light Between Oceans, since late 2014, and if the tabloid pictures are anything to go by spends much of his time partying and watching Formula 1. In fact, for a man who goes from success to success in his movies, he finds a lot of time to travel Europe. When we bring up motor racing, it’s like he’s been waiting to talk about it all day. He says he’s “probably” addicted and adds that his twin loves are karting and motorbikes.
“Karting is an experience that is about as close to being in a Formula 1 race car that you can have without killing yourself. I love the feeling of being so close to the ground, which is something you don’t get when you’re driving a car. I enjoy the sensation of the speed and the turns and the g-forces in karting even though it’s nothing compared to what Formula 1 drivers experience. Being on a motorbike and concentrating while you’re going as fast as possible is also a strange form of relaxation – your mind just adapts to what you’re doing and you stop worrying about everything else that’s going on in your life.” He also reveals an unlikely love of karaoke. “I love it,” he grins. “But I’m not sure I would have many fans left if they came to hear me. I’m totally fearless when I take the microphone. I’ll sing Sinatra or the Rolling Stones or Creedence Clearwater Revival without any shame or regret! It all depends ➤
I’m something of a caveman when it comes to technology, so it was quite an education
Macbeth will be released on 2 October 2015. Steve Jobs will be released on 13 November 2015.
PHOTOGRAPH (12 Years) by Regency Enterprises / The Kobal Collection; (Shame) by See-Saw Films / The Kobal Collection
LEADING MAN: Some of Fassbender’s finest movie moments have come from working on films directed by Steve McQueen, who has cast him in varied roles, from a sadistic slave owner in Oscarwinning 12 Years a Slave (above) to sex-addicted highflyer Brandon in Shame (below).
➤ on my mood and especially the number of drinks I’ve had that evening.” Next up for Fassbender is the Danny Boyledirected Steve Jobs, in which he plays the late Apple founder. The actor reveals a deep appreciation of his subject, explaining that he “worships Jobs’ intellect” – but claims he’s personally not clued up on cutting-edge tech. “He was an extraordinary man who changed the way we live on so many levels,” he says. “But I’m something of a caveman when it comes to technology, so it was quite an education for me to prepare for the film. I also discovered that Steve Jobs was also instrumental in introducing the Apple stores at a time when the industry was worrying about online sales. The man was remarkable and certainly ahead of his time.” You’d like to think that Fassbender might have invested in some new gadgets after his work on the movie, but he lifts up his battered phone and laughs. “No – I’m still using my iPhone 4. I love the design of it and I’m going to keep using it until it dies.” The film is produced by Scott Rudin, and written by Aaron Sorkin, who adapted Walter Isaacson’s biography about the Apple founder, while Kate Winslet, Seth Rogen and Jeff Daniels co-star. At this point, all we’ve seen is the official full trailer, which was released in July, but many are already predicting a longoverdue Oscar win for Fassbender even before the movie has come out. Next year will also see release of the next X-Men instalment – with the actor reprising his role as Magneto, the most mainstream and, perhaps, high-profile character of his career. It would be easy to say that it pays the bills and the other roles keep him happy, but you get the impression that’s actually not the case. Fassbender is a man motivated by taking on the most complex and interesting characters he can, and picking and choosing his roles carefully. He’s at a level that most actors dream of – and one that most don’t arrive at until they’re in the twilight of their career. In fact, he’s seemingly always been there. ■
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ANNIVERSARIES TOOL WATCHES THIERRY STERN VINTAGE WATCHES WATCH LIST 2015
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071 072 083 086 090
CAUGHT RED HANDED . 090 PHOTOGRAPH Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon by Laziz Hamani
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THE OLD GUARD YOU THINK YOU’RE GETTING OLD? YOU’VE GOT NOTHING ON THE WORLD’S OLDEST WATCH BRANDS. AND REMEMBER, THE BEST THINGS COME TO THOSE WHO WAIT, SAYS MARK HEDLEY
T’S AN IMPORTANT year for three of the world’s most established watch brands, and unsurprisingly, they’re not letting it pass without a bit of a song and dance. The youngest of this holy trinity is A Lange & Söhne – although, at 170 years old, I’m not sure we’ll be seeing Herr Lang or Herr Söhne down the skate park any time soon. Indeed, if F. A. Lange were here today, he’d be 200. To mark the occasion, the brand has created the handsome 200th Anniversary F. A. Lange in platinum in a limited edition of 200 watches. Next up is Baume et Mercier. The brand is celebrating its 185th birthday with a limited edition version of its highly distinguished Clifton range. The Clifton 8-Day Power Reserve will be limited to 185 pieces, naturally. This 45.5mm 18K-red gold piece has been decked out with a manual movement enabling the watch to run for over a week – its impressive longevity surely symbolic of the brand’s broader staying power. Finally there’s the senior pro, Vacheron Constantin – the world’s oldest luxury watch brand to have enjoyed uninterrupted production. Vacheron Constantin begun the party early at this May’s Baselworld where it launched the Harmony collection to celebrate its 260th anniversary. The elegant cushion shape draws inspiration from the brand’s creations in the 1920s, but there’s nothing vintage about the caliber within. The selfwinding 2640 DT provides a dual-time display, including an elaborate mechanism that enables easy adjustment of all functions via the crown. In addition, a scrolling motif inspired by the balance-cock of the oldest pocket watch belonging to the Maison and signed by JeanMarc Vacheron in 1755 adorns the inaugural timepieces in this collection. It’s understated celebration as only the Swiss can do. At the other end of the spectrum, Vacheron Constantin has also been busy creating the most complicated watch ever made. More on that in the next issue of square mile… ■ squaremile.com
BIRTHDAY BOYS: (clockwise from top left) Vacheron Constantin’s Harmony Dual Time; Baume et Mercier’s Clifton 8-Day Power Reserve; A Lange & Söhne’s 200th Anniversary F. A. Lange in platinum
TOOLS OF THE TRADE TOOL WATCHES MAY PUT FUNCTION AHEAD OF FORM, BUT THAT DOESN’T MEAN THEY CAN’T BE STYLISH, TOO. WE’VE SELECTED THE BEST ONES FOR THE JOB
PHOTOGRAPHY DAVID HARRISON | WATCHES THE WATCH GALLERY
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AUDEMARS PIGUET: Royal Oak Offshore £19,000
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[LEFT] TAG HEUER: Carrera McLaren Edition, £4,150 [RIGHT] Rolex: Oyster Perpetual Milgauss, £4,800
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ILLUSTRATION by publinc larit em potinium vid ces blah
[LEFT TO RIGHT] IWC: Aquatimer Aquatimer Automatic Mens xpedition Charles Darwin Watch, £8,250 VACHERON CONSTANTIN: Overseas Chronograph, £15,450 HUBLOT: Big Bang 44mm Rose Gold, £22,900
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[TOP] OFFICINE PANERAI: Luminor 1950, £POA [BOTTOM] BREMONT: Boeing Automatic, £4,495
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BLANCPAIN: Fifty Fathoms Satin Brushed Automatic, ÂŁ7,290 STOCKISTS FOR ALL WATCHES SHOT: The Watch Gallery, 129 Fulham Rd, SW3 6RT; 020 7952 2731; thewatchgallery.com
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FAMILY GUY THIERRY STERN, THE MAN AT THE HELM OF PATEK PHILIPPE, SAYS FAMILY COMES FIRST – BUT HIS WATCH BRAND IS CLEARLY A VERY CLOSE SECOND, SAYS JON HAWKINS
OU COULD FORGIVE Thierry Stern for wanting to ease off for a while. The Patek Philippe president has been the driving force behind a period of restless activity for the Swiss manufacture, starting with the celebrations for the brand’s 175th anniversary last year and culminating in its Grand Exhibition at the Saatchi Gallery in early June, which drew in 42,500 visitors over 12 days. In between times, he even managed to wrong-foot industry insiders – a rarity in the often conservative world of mechanical watches – at the annual Baselworld watch fair in March. With most expecting few fireworks from Patek, on the back of a development-heavy 175th anniversary collection, the brand famed for its elegant, classically designed watches turned up with a pilot’s watch – staying true to that style’s unfussy, utilitarian template in a package that’s unmistakably Patek Philippe. But even with all that now behind him this is no time to stand still, says Stern, who took over as president of the family run company from his father in 2009. “We have to demonstrate to people that Patek Philippe isn’t a tired and dusty brand, even after 175 years – we’re very motivated, we have a lot of ideas and we’re not about to stop.” ON THE CAPACITY TO SHOCK We have to surprise people, and I love to surprise the retailers. They’re the ones who know everything about Patek and like to ➤
•• WE HAVE TO DEMONSTRATE TO PEOPLE THAT PATEK PHILIPPE ISN’T A TIRED AND DUSTY BRAND squaremile.com
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➤ second-guess what we’ll launch each year. My duty is to provide watches that customers want, of course, but it’s also to surprise people. The pilot’s watch [Ref 5524G, pictured right] was made for that purpose: to say ‘you think you know everything about Patek, but I’ll show you that you don’t’, and I think it worked. It’s actually not something totally new for the brand – there’s a precedent – but I didn’t want to just remake the original. This is what I call the co-pilot’s watch – it’s a pilot’s watch with a travel-time complication. Pilots don’t rely on a watch anymore, of course – they have other tools – but for someone who travels a lot I think it’s really useful, and something we needed in the collection.
ON PASSING THE BRAND ON TO HIS CHILDREN I was happy to takeover at Patek but my children will have to choose – I’d never push them into the business. They’re young and they still have to finish school, so we still have plenty of time; and I’m not ready to retire. It’s really a matter of passion. To make them do something they don’t enjoy would be terrible for them, and it would mean that I only had children to takeover the business – I would not be proud of that. If I had to choose between Patek and my children, the choice is simple: it’s my children, but I don’t think it will be a problem. My sister has kids, too, so the biggest challenge would be if they were all willing to takeover. That would be a nightmare.
ON HIS EARLY INTEREST IN TAKING THE HELM My mind was always very clear. I was six years old when I decided that I wanted to do this – my Mum left me in my father’s office and I opened a drawer and found some pocket watches. I was fascinated, though I was more interested in the design than the movements inside. That’s when I decided that I would like to be part of Patek Philippe one day, and since then I never stopped saying that to my dad.
ON WHY THERE’S ROOM FOR EVERYONE People will always be interested in mechanical watches. I recently went to New York and
•• MY DUTY IS TO PROVIDE WATCHES THAT CUSTOMERS WANT, OF COURSE, BUT IT’S ALSO TO SURPRISE PEOPLE 084
had a meeting with the bosses of some of the world’s biggest tech companies, and they all had Pateks. “I don’t understand,” I said to them. “You’re at the top of the technology industry, so why are you wearing mechanical watches?” They told me they needed to be brought back to reality from time to time; technology moves on, so you need some things that are constant. I ordered an Apple Watch because I was curious, and it’s the peak of technology, but for me it’s not a watch. That said, we produce around 55,000 watches a year and there are more than seven billion people on earth, so there’s room for everyone.
ON DOING BUSINESS THE RIGHT WAY Most brands shouldn’t have rushed into China but shareholders don’t always understand that. I had the choice, and I decided not to hurry things. We opened one store, then a
second, and that was it – for a few years we focused on educating people. I also knew that problems would come; I travel a lot, and it wasn’t hard to see that the Chinese market was not as beautiful as people imagined. Around 2009, a lot of brands went into China and cancelled deliveries to the US because it was weak and they had a lot of unsold stock. They let down long-term partners in the US so they could build their business in China. That’s not how I do business. Those brands opened the door to America for us. We spent more than a year visiting all our points of sale in the States, and the retailers were in trouble, believe me. Their first question was always: “Have you come to close me because I don’t sell?” I would tell them: “No, we’ve been doing business for years, so don’t worry, I’m here to help”. ■ For more information, see patek.com
LEADERSHIP IS NOT A TITLE. IT IS AN ACTION. TAKE THE LEAD AT CAPCO.
THE WRIST IS HISTORY
WATCH BRANDS ARE INCREASINGLY LOOKING TO PAST GLORIES WHEN LAUNCHING NEW MODELS. ADRIAN HAILWOOD, WATCH DIRECTOR AT FELLOWS AUCTIONEERS, MAKES THE CASE FOR BUYING REAL VINTAGE IN A TIME OF NOSTALGIA
MUST CONFESS I am old enough that a
significant memory from my earliest childhood TV watching is The Clangers – a surreal programme involving an iron chicken, a soup dragon and a family of pink knitted mice voiced by swanee whistles. Despite ending before my fifth birthday, it has stayed lodged in my consciousness ever since. Now, having a young child of my own, I was curious to see that the programme has been revived by the creator’s son – with Oliver Postgate’s melancholy commentary being replaced by the voice of Michael Palin. Could such a classic piece of 1970s TV really be successfully rebooted today? The answer for me, having watched it, is not really. The new version is great in its way – brighter, slicker and even making sense sometimes – but it is not the same. Having seen the original again on those talking-heads
reminiscence shows, there is definitely still a charm to its awkwardness and a context to its craziness. But more than that, the original is mine, for all its (many) faults. Conversely, the watch world is strangely attached to its revivals. It seems that when the new models are revealed each spring it is less a case of struggling to adjust to new challenging forms of time-telling and more a nod of recognition as more familiar faces re-emerge from the archives. Granted, there will be a few cutting-edge watches but these are usually from the small, independent and recently founded companies. It is difficult for watch brands, struggling as they are to differentiate themselves in a crowded market where all their products do roughly the same thing. As the Bible quote goes: “what has been will be again, what has been done will be done again; there is nothing new under the sun”. ➤
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➤ It is rare that truly disruptive designs come along, especially in the field of mechanical watchmaking with the constraints of movement layout. This is where marketing and brand identity kicks in. Longevity seems to correlate with legitimacy in the mind of the brand’s marketing departments and new products are produced with an eye on the past. This is understandable if the brand is reinforcing an established house style, and some brands are lucky enough to have historic models that have never been out of production since they were launched: the Rolex Daytona and Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch, for example. Indeed one of the main reasons for Rolex’s success is the tiny incremental design steps that link most of its product lines back to its original versions. These do not count as reissues as they have never been away. Other comebacks are a little more contrived, such as Omega’s Speedmaster MkII or the addition of the big orange hand on the Rolex Explorer II. These are examples of where a watch becomes collectable and the brand decides to capitalise on the new-found popularity by resurrecting it. Unsurprisingly, these models are often the ones that brought the brand to prominence, or cemented the association with an activity such as flying, diving or motor racing. Since the mid1990s TAG Heuer has reissued all its main chronograph models from the 1960s and 1970s and Breitling regularly produces ‘heritage’ models including a reissue of its 1969 Chronomatic. The trend is not limited to the biggest brands, with almost anyone older than 70 years trotting out a ‘greatest hits’ collection. Of course, these new watches are not just direct copies. The first thing that a side-by-side comparison will show is an increase in size. While wrist-borne dinner plates thankfully seem to be less common, the average size of a watch has increased significantly in the last 70 years, with chronographs at 36-38mm then becoming 42-44mm now. Movements will have improved with the application of modern production methods and materials, although some unusual calibres will have been replaced with a standard offering from ETA. Glasses will often change from plexi to sapphire crystal and the hands and markers will benefit from an upgrade to Super-LumiNova. All of this is in parallel with the growth of the vintage watch market. More watches are coming up for sale whether at retail, traded through specialist forums, or at auction, with auction prices heading ever higher. The enthusiastic discussion of every aspect of vintage watches is producing a more informed and mature market. With all vintage
TIMELESS: (Clockwise, from above) IWC Big Pilot re-issue from one of the original makers of navigator watches for the Luftwaffe; the landmark movement in the Breitling Navitimer Chronomatic had the crown on the left out of necessity, its later sibling has it for aesthetic reasons; the Rolex Explorer II was something of an ugly duckling.
purchases, condition is everything, but the exact nature and aesthetic of the aging process can add value if it produces a pleasing result. This fascination with vintage details has led some brands to re-issue their classic models with luminous dial markers close to the colour that comes from decades of aging – a step too far towards pastiche, perhaps? The question is, if you are a collector of vintage-style watches, why not go all the way and become a collector of vintage watches? Yes, the reissues may have superior movements, better water resistance, or larger
cases (if size still matters to you). Servicing for these re-issues will certainly be easier, too. But what they lack is charm, a backstory or any real place in history. They will only ever be a watch that looks like a more desirable one, although discontinued and harder to find. My advice is, take your time, save your money and buy the best condition vintage rarity you can find – it may not be for everyday wear, it may be smaller and less recognisable than the reissue but it is the original, not a copy, and so will only rise in value. ■ For vintage watch auctions, see fellows.co.uk
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WATCH LIST 2015 KEN KESSLER RUNS HIS RULE OVER THIS YEAR’S WATCH TRENDS – AND THE BRANDS WHICH HAVE PERFECTED THEM
ASHION IN WATCHES usually means
HARRY WINSTON AVENUE DUAL TIME AUTOMATIC
There are default watches for travellers who need two time zones, but Harry Winston – known for its adventurous timepieces – has created a new look and functionality for what most address simply with an extra hour hand. Using exotic materials like Sedna gold and Zalium, it has created a complex watch with two dials bisected vertically, one for home time and one for the destination. The sheer complexity seems to mitigate against legibility, but who cares? If you need to know the time in two places, this masterpiece will become as important to you as your Tusting Weekender. harrywinston.com
PHOTOGRAPH by blah
aesthetic concerns – this year’s ‘thing’ is definitely cloth ‘NATO’ straps, for example. But it can also refer to technical trends. As long ago as 1995, the revived A Lange & Söhne burst onto the scene with its ‘big date’ – the numerals in large windows that didn’t require a magnifier over them. Within five years, ‘big date’ was commonplace, copied by so many brands that Lange should have charged a royalty. Now, you have to make an effort to avoid the watches so equipped. It is possible to purchase an exemplar of a trend without worrying you’ll be stuck with a watch so dated you have to wait 20 years for it to make a comeback. Some schmucks are still trying to convince you that 1970s push-button LED watches are hip and desirable. But buy one and you’ll regret it as much as a neck-tonads tattoo. The ten watches here, though? With these, you’ll always be ahead of the curve.
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L-EVOLUTION TOURBILLON CARROUSEL
Since its birth in 1932, the Patek Philippe Calatrava has been the definitive dress watch. Commentators describe it as ‘Bauhaus’ because of its minimalism and functionality; it is simply a paradigm of taste and discretion. Over the years, the Calatrava has been offered in various precious metals (vintage steel versions are worth more than the gold), with assorted bezels or dials, with or without the bling of gem enhancements and various diameters. Just as a Rolex is a default purchase for ruggedness allied to functionality, so is Patek Philippe’s Calatrava the final word in dress watches that won’t be subjected to drunken tumbles into swimming pools.
Although more than 200 years old, the tourbillon is to watches what quad turbocharging is to supercars. Every brand with aspirations toward haute horlogerie status has to include one in its range, this feature designed to keep pocket watches from suffering the effects of gravity. And even confessed tourbillon cynics such as I admit they look amazing. Blancpain has combined the tourbillon with its rival, the similar Carrousel, into a radical case shape, eliminated the dial, and created a showpiece of watch technology. Those in the know 50 years from now will look back at this watch and be rendered speechless by its complexity. blancpain.com
ORIS CALIBRE 111
Manufacture is the way the industry describes companies that make their own in-house movements – the ‘badge of courage’ in the watch world. It’s complete bullshit, of course, as the greatest watches in history – the Rolex ‘Paul Newman’, the Omega Speedmaster Professional, etc – used movements from outside suppliers, but today, it’s no inhouse movement, no cred. Oris, once a manufacturer of movements on a HUGE scale, has revived its skill set to produce an allnew movement called the Calibre 111, foreshadowed by the recent Cal 110 limited edition. This is an affordable slice of genuine watch prestige in a handsome, classic form that will ensure your watchlovin’ buddies show respect. oris.ch
CARTIER LOUIS CARTIER TANK
If rectangular rather than round is your preferred choice, one of the first-ever production wristwatches will appeal to you for its mix of longevity and looks. Despite it soon celebrating its first century, the Cartier Tank is undergoing one of its periodic spells of arch-coolness, and with no extra effort on the part of Cartier. It’s a groundswell. This small, elegant timepiece, as worn by every style arbiter from Andy Warhol to Alain Delon, has again become so coveted that second-hand values have enjoyed an upward blip which dealers have not failed to notice. The model to buy, if you prefer a new one, is the absolutely perfect Louis Cartier, for its purity and style. cartier.co.uk
SLIM DE HERMÈS
ROLLING STONES EL PRIMERO
As a backlash against the trend for huge watches, companies like Piaget championed the return of ultra-thin timepieces first seen in the 1950s. But Hermès, which has embraced high-end watchmaking with a vengeance, has a rather interesting alternative to the default choice of Piaget. Slim watches are all about profiles, the cases being shallower thanks to movements such as the one made by Vaucher for Hermès, a mere 2.5mm thick – and it’s an automatic. Conversation piece it may be, but the looks, which embody the Hermès design language, will grab you well before you turn it over to see the movement.
Watch ambassadors are so commonplace that it’s hard to separate celebs who care about watches from those simply in it for the money. The Rolling Stones are careful about their collaborators. Besides, Ronnie Wood is known to be a watch enthusiast, while Charlie Watts is the coolest man in rock – in both attitude and style. Hooking up with Zenith, makers of one of the finest chronograph movements ever, the Stones have placed their tongue logo on limited edition El Primero models. Expensive and exclusive, they sell out as soon as each series is announced. If you love rock’n’roll and watches, this is a marriage made in heaven. Or Le Locle, at least.
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JUNGHANS MAX BILL
ILLUSTRATION by publinc larit em potinium vid ces blah
Watches aren’t designed in a vacuum: Gérald Genta penned the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus among others, while Marc Newson was responsible for Ikepod. But these are costly options if you’re motivated by named artistry. Junghans, firmly a maker in the ‘affordable’ sector, has trumped ’em all with the stunning Max Bill range. Swiss-born Bill worked as an architect, painter, sculptor and product designer, and created clocks and wristwatches for Junghans. They still look so up-to-the-minute that it’s hard to believe they were born 60 years ago. junghans.de
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ROGER DUBUIS EXCALIBUR SPIDER SKELETON DOUBLE FLYING TOURBILLON
This is definitely the Year of the Skeleton. A skeleton is a watch that has had its dial removed to so you can see the movement from the front, not just through a glass case back. Roger Dubuis has embraced this with a vigour second to none, though most high-end brands offer them now. Its Excalibur Spider Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon is about as ambitious as you can get, the words ‘double flying tourbillon’ telling the enthusiast that this watch is the equivalent of a Pagani Huayra. You don’t need to know a thing about watches to realise that this is watchmaking at its pinnacle. rogerdubuis.com
TUDOR BLACK BAY
PHOTOGRAPHS (ZENITH) by laziz hamani; (Tudor) by Olivier Foulon
Undoubtedly the success story of the last five years, the revival of the Tudor range is so complete that it has reinvigorated that difficult, crowded price sector between £1,500-£3,500. With its Rolex-made cases, fabulous styling and bargain pricing, how could it not succeed? That was enough to guarantee a victorious return, but Tudor’s clever designer did something so brilliant that, within months, it was copied by all-andsundry: he fitted the watches with striped, cloth over-under-straps, erroneously called ‘NATO’ straps by those too lazy to do their homework. They complement the Black Bay’s blue or maroon dials and bezels, adding to such innate desirability that watch journalists have even paid for theirs. tudorwatch.com
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MOUNTAIN VIEW . 104 PHOTOGRAPH by David O Marlow
CALL THE SHOTS MARK HEDLEY may be
editor of square mile, but he rarely gets to take any photos for it. Canon furnished him with the superb EOS 5D Mark III and let him off the leash
N A WORLD of Instagram filters, selfie sticks and Snapchat short-termism, it’s easy to forget the true art of photography. It doesn’t matter how many megapixels you squeeze beneath a smartphone’s pin-sized lens, nothing can come close to the results from a digital SLR furnished with some proper glassware. The biggest problems with a mobile phone camera are the size of the image you can produce; the ability to capture quality photos in low-light; and the speed at which you can shoot. This is where the Canon EOS 5D Mark III comes in – excelling in all three areas.
The EOS 5D Mark III features a full-frame, high-resolution 22.3-megapixel sensor, which allows you to capture the smallest of details. (Top tip: don’t point it at your other half first thing in the morning – apparently, they won’t appreciate it.) This model bridges the gap between amateur and professional, which is handy, as that’s about where I sit. I know my way around a camera but square mile’s art director rarely allows me to have much published – I’m told, I should “stick to words”. I’d show him. When Canon agreed to lend me an EOS 5D Mark III to test out around the
SHARP SHOOTER: The Canon EOS 5D Mark III has been designed to meet virtually any creative challenge thrown at it. The only thing it can’t do is decide what to actually photograph. Fortunately, from SushiSamba to St Paul’s, the City has plenty of dramatic scenery for visual fodder.
City, this was my chance. I just had to make sure the results were up to his high standards. Fortunately, I had a secret weapon: Canon’s Scene Intelligent Auto. This fully automatic shooting mode allows you to hand over total control to the camera, so all you need to do is concentrate on where to point it. It will adapt all the settings to the picture you want to take, which is ideal for when you’re learning about the camera or, indeed, photography in general. After a few hours I was keen to experiment with the camera’s manual controls. I am a man, though, so referring to the (ironically named) ➤
THE FULLY AUTO MODE ALLOWS YOU TO HAND OVER TOTAL CONTROL TO THE CAMERA, SO ALL YOU NEED TO DO IS CONCENTRATE ON WHERE TO POINT IT 101
PICTURE PERFECT: Furnished with Canon’s EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM lens, the EOS 5D Mark III is a remarkable and adaptable tool. And with results like these, you’ll blow away your mates’ efforts on Instagram.
➤ manual was out of the question. It’s just as well that this camera is nice and intuitive. Playing around in the early-autumn sun is all well and good, but I knew that to push the limits of the camera, I would need to head indoors. Here, the superb sensor enables the camera to take images in low light without the use of flash. It’s perfect for capturing natural shots at parties, impressive nightime cityscapes, or – as I proved, above – some spiral stairs inside a fluted Doric column (as one does). With the ability to shoot at up to six frames per second, the EOS 5D Mark III can capture the fastest moving subjects, too – such as motor racing, your children in the park, or in my case, a London bus, which turned out to be much closer than I thought. That is one danger of using a wide-angle lens – though, had it hit me, I suspect the camera would have come off rather better than I would. It has a reassuring solidarity to it. If you dropped it from a great height it wouldn’t flinch. Don’t get me wrong, I wasn’t planning on trying it (at least, not on
purpose) so you’ll have to take my word for it. And that of the good people from Canon, who explain to me that it has magnesium alloy body covers, meaning it’s pretty safe in even the most clumsy pair of hands. It’s even weathersealed – ideal for a more typically British day. The ability to flick straight to HD video is very handy, too. The Canon EOS range is so highly regarded that it’s often used for TV and movies – so it should be able to cope with the complexities of your son’s second birthday party. Just make sure none of the toddlers get hold of it: I know I said it was indestructible, but you’ll be amazed at the devastation a toddler can achieve when armed with a Brio train and a bowl of strawberry jelly. Crucially, the Canon offers you the chance to capture real-life moments – and, let’s face it, the results will be sharper and more vivid than your memory. Smartphones are fine, but when you’re ready for the next level, the EOS 5D Mark III is waiting for you. ■
THE TECH FILE The EOS 5D Mark III is a full-frame 22.3 MP DSLR with 61-point autofocus system and 63-zone metering, providing greater speed, flexibility and accuracy. It’s capable of six frame-per-second continuous shooting. (That’s a lot, by the way.) It also offers an ISO range of 100-25,600, expandable to ISO 102,400, meaning it can still capture great shots in the darkest of situations – even the Forge dancefloor at the end of a Friday night. Impressive. canon.co.uk
For more inspiration: canon.co.uk/gateway
BREAKING THE ICE
Tired of shabby chalets, mediocre snow and overcrowded slopes, DUNCAN MADDEN seeks out a curated ski experience where the off-piste and partying is turned right up to Eleven
HITCH A RIDE: If you’ve mastered even the most challenging black runs and need a new snow-based challenge, take your skiing to the next level with offpiste exploration and heli-skiing. Missed the last lift down? Fret not – Eleven can arrange a pickup in the form of a helicopter.
PHOTOGRAPH (Main) by Mark Junak; (inset) by Fenlon Photography Co.
T’S DARK AS we slowly wind our way along
twisting narrow roads into the Alpine enclave of Le Miroir. Really dark – the kind of inky blackness that seems reserved for mountainous passes fraught with precipitous drops and a looming sense of the unknown. Above us a random and vast splatter of stars twinkles across the night sky, blending seamlessly with the flickering lights of highaltitude towns, villages and lodges huddled and clinging onto vertiginous mountainsides. In the darkness it’s almost impossible to tell them apart from one another. Sharper eyes than mine are navigating our way, though, and soon our final destination emerges from the dark – a warm and inviting glow amid the snowy landscape. Chalet Pelerin is a new venture (if not a new building) from Colorado-based ‘outdoor experience’ group Eleven, located in this famed corner of France. Close to the resort of Sainte-Foy, Pelerin is set in the Tarentaise, within easy distance of Tignes and Val d’Isere in the Espace Killy, and Les Arcs and La Plagne in Paradiski, right on the Italian border. It’s an enviable location. Eleven positions itself as an experience group. Its aim is to match rigorously curated and guided customised outdoor activities and adventures with supreme luxury and finesse – a tailor-made trip to satisfy your every whim. Chalet Pelerin certainly makes a striking first impression. I’m fortunate enough to be staying in the grandest of the four suites, a huge wood-clad attic space swathed in animal skins, with an open fire crackling busily in the corner and an enormous bathroom. In the morning, I discover my balcony and some spectacular views across the valley to the intricate web of ski lifts and runs that crisscross the smorgasbord of snowy slopes that are spread out before me. First things first, a visit to the boot room to suit up for the day’s skiing. Personalised kit booths give a taste of what’s to come – Wagner skis specifically designed for the region, complimentary goggles and avalanche safety backpacks hint at the variety of skibased adventures that are on offer. While we measure up, locals drop in to shoot the breeze with our guides, swap stories of fresh snow and unridden trails, all the time supping on Three Daggers, a fruity beer from Eleven’s Wiltshire brewery, poured from the boot room’s own barrel. It’s all very civilised. With the promise of heli-skiing on hold thanks to the typically changeable Alpine weather, we suit up and head out for a day hunting off-piste perfection. I hesitate a little when I hear the American accents of our
expert guides and wonder how well these guys can really know these mountains and their endless tangles of hidden backcountry runs. Led by the vociferous, outrageous Alan (ex mayor of famed ski town and Eleven home Crested Butte in Colorado, and infamous for routinely setting himself on fire before competing in local ski races), I’m unsure what to expect. I needn’t have worried. Behind the bluster, loosely traded insults, endless stream of oft-hilarious jokes and permanent veneer of a party about to explode into life, Alan and the Eleven team are the best ski guides I’ve ever encountered. Their knowledge of the entire Alpine landscape around us is profound, and in no time we’re carving clean lines through virgin snow, one eye on the craggy peaks towering above us, the other following Al’s unmistakable telemark ski tracks and rat-a-tat-tat laughter. By lunchtime we’re buzzing for more. But the weather isn’t in the mood and our disappointment at the lack of helicopter action is palpable. We linger over one bottle of wine too many and emerge wobbly legged to realise we’ve missed the last ski lifts back down. No problem – a quick call and the Eleven chopper is racing us home. It’s not quite how we’d envisaged it, but still – my kind of taxi. It’s a pattern we fall into easily over the week. Long days tracing new lines on different mountains, all the time flitting easily on and off piste – wherever the snow is best. From La Rosière we ski across the border to La Thuile in Italy. We spend an afternoon ➤
We’ve missed the last ski lifts but it’s no problem – a quick call and a helicopter is racing us home. My kind of taxi 105
SNOW DAY: Once you’ve finished traversing deserted slopes and off-piste routes (and have fully exhausted the table-top dancing opportunities at La Folie Douce), retreat to Chalet Pelerin for a spot of civilised – and luxurious – recovery (below)
➤ in Val D’Isere dancing on tables at legendary mountain-top party La Folie Douce and I suffer first-world problems when the champagne spray freezes inside my goggles and I can’t see where I’m going for the final run home. On our last day and still with no heli-skiing under our belt, Big Al (as I’m now calling him) has a little surprise in store to get the adrenaline pumping. High above Tignes we ride a lift up to the bowls and peaks, and as we crest the final summit are confronted with a huge ski jump with no recognisable landing slope. “Let’s have a go on that!” shouts Al as nervous laughter ripples through our group. He’s not joking though, and we don’t have to worry about landing – this is ski bungee. Lining up to take the plunge with two bungee
cords attached to my harness, I watch the girl in front of me glide off the ramp and silently plunge into the snowy abyss below. Unnerved as I am, I blow a sigh of relief when she springs back above the lip of the jump and lets out a hearty holler of laughter. No such restraint from me – the stream of expletives leaving my mouth as I take flight is enough to turn even this whitest of landscapes blue. “I’m flyyyyyyiiiiiiiing”, I wail. “That’s not flying; that’s falling with style,” corrects Alan. It reflects well upon Eleven and their attitude to ‘the experience’. Not once are they deterred by our disappointment at the lack of heli-ski action. Instead, in four days we ski all seven major areas in the region, hike to hidden huts to party, cross borders to dine at the best
restaurants, consume our own body weight in steaks and (amazing) red wines, and I laugh more than I have in as long as I can remember. My Chalet Pelerin experience is over, but my sadness is tempered when Al passes me a brochure for Deplar Farm – Eleven’s super remote Iceland property where heli-skiing on glaciers is the order of the day. “I’ll see you there,” he smiles. Damn right you will. ■ Duncan spent four nights at Chalet Pelerin (elevenexperience.com) with rates starting from €8,800 a night based on eight people staying. Stay includes airport transfers, ski gear, guide service and chalet with outdoor hot tub and in-house chef. For more info email
firstname.lastname@example.org or call 001 970 349 7761.
The stream of expletives leaving my mouth is enough to turn even this whitest of landscapes blue. This is not flying; it’s falling with style 106
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CITY LIMITS: Although its development has taken a slower pace than that of neighbouring Dubai, Abu Dhabi is still growing at an impressive pace, with an ever-changing skyline. Find bars and restaurants with ‘wow’ views at the top of many of the city’s skyscrapers
TRAVEL ABU DHABI
WE’RE GOING UP IN THE WORLD
Abu Dhabi’s considered approach to development means it offers tradition and technology – not to mention Formula 1. Ten Group’s ALEX DALZELL tells us where to see and be seen during race week
HE EMIRATI CAPITAL has been developing at a slower and more considered pace than its flamboyant neighbour Dubai, meaning its traditional side still shines through. It also holds an ace card – its annual Grand Prix at the winding Yas Marina circuit. If you’re heading over to catch the culmination of the F1 season, or visiting at any other time of year, here are the places to eat, drink, party and crash (and not in a Romain Grosjean way). EAT The UAE’s vast exposure to civilisations over history has left a lasting mark on the national
cuisine and the collision of Asia and Arabia has made for some remarkably tasty food. Just head to any local restaurant like the historic Bu Tafish on Hamden Street to tuck into mounds of houmous, piles of grilled meats, tagines and heavily spiced stews. For a high-end interpretation, Mezlai at the Emirates Palace sticks to the region’s culinary roots. Most of the other fancy dining spots have European leanings and the past decade has seen the arrival of top-notch French restaurants like Bord Eau, which imports the majority of its ingredients from France and is an unmissable gourmet attraction. The
imminent arrival of Le Petit Maison will further bolster the desert city’s Gallic flair. Unless you choose to eat every meal in the souk’s rustic restaurants, it’ll be impossible to avoid Abu Dhabi’s unabashed glitz, so you might as well embrace it and head to Pearls & Caviar at the Shangri-La Hotel. As the name suggests, it targets Abu Dhabi’s great and good so the cooking (and prices) are topflight – but the chefs have really nailed classic Mediterranean seafood dishes. In contrast to the scene in Dubai, it’s taken a while for big-name London restaurants to catch onto the city’s hunger for contemporary ➤
DESERT OASIS: (clockwise from main) Abu Dhabi is part modern metropolis, part balmy beach destination; there’s not much that’s understated about the city, so embrace the excess at Pearls & Caviar; the hottest ticket in town: a cabana at superstylish Saadiyat Beach Club
➤ cooking, but Hakkasan has lead the charge and it’s perhaps a little better than the Mayfair original – the Asian fusion cooking feels more suited to the desert setting. It goes without saying that all of these places require advanced booking, especially when the F1 is in town.
DRINK There was no drinking culture in Abu Dhabi until the expats rocked up in numbers and the authorities became a lot more liberal towards casual boozing – although it’s ill-advised to act in a drunken manner anywhere public. Start your evening with cocktails at Ray’s Bar on level 62 of the Jumeirah at Etihad Towers. Set back from a cluster of skyscrapers the views of the tower-spiked skyline are knock-out and the service is flawless. Formula 1 fans can survey the track from the terraces atop the Yas Viceroy Hotel. Choose between Longitude, with its open-air pool and light lunches, or the livelier Latitude, which also takes in views of the yachts in the marina. A third space, Skylite, opens every September when summer temperatures have dropped and the F1 crowds descend. Down at sea level, there’s the Saadiyat Beach Club which fills up an hour before sunset. Bag one of the sofas by the sand or a poolside cabana and make yourself comfortable as you’ll want to stay right up until kick-out time at the strike of midnight.
PARTY Grand Prix fervour builds in the week running up to the race with a number of parties at clubs like Sax and Rush, two of the city’s main late-night hangouts throughout the year. But the biggest ticket in town is to the Amber Lounge, which hosts after-parties on the evenings of qualifying and race day. International DJs are flown in, and drivers and their A-list friends make regular appearances. You’ve got the highest chance of securing access to the parties if you book a spot on board Amber Lounge’s trackside yacht to watch the daytime action. You may also hear whisperings of the Code20 party, which keeps its line-up secret until the last minute. The only way to get entry
is to visit the website (thecode20.com) and request a table with bottle service. Another club making a big noise during the race weekend is O1NE Yas Island, with DJs like Armin Van Buuren gracing the decks. The weekly night here, The Experiment, is worth checking out once race fever dies down, too.
As Dubai reaches ever higher into the sky, it seems Abu Dhabi is not going to be outdone 110
As Dubai reaches ever higher into the sky, it seems neighbouring Abu Dhabi is not going to be outdone. The Burj Khalifa may be the world’s tallest building, but Abu Dhabi has recently opened its own record breaker – the world’s highest suspended suite. Wedged between the Nation Towers 200 metres above the ground, the two-storey St Regis Abu Dhabi
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PHOTOGRAPH (Lead image) by Predrag Vuckovic
suite has three guest rooms, a study, library, cinema, gym, kitchen and huge living room. For something less ostentatious, try the Park Hyatt or a vertiginous room in the Jumeirah at Etihad Towers. To stay in the middle of the Yas Marina Circuit, try the Viceroy Hotel, but rooms get booked up early. Alternatively, if you’re keen to explore beyond the city limits, Ananatara’s Al Sahel Resort on Yas Island offers villas surrounded by the open plains of the Arabian Wildlife Park. It’s worlds away from the modern metropolis glimmering on the horizon. ■
B E C O M E
I M M E R S E D visit durrantslondon.com for the full experience
Durrants of London 15 Greville Street, Hatton Garden, London, EC1N 8SQ
SACKVILLE’S BY NICK SAVAGE Sackville’s would be Patrick Bateman’s cheat meal if American Psycho were set in contemporary London. Like the novel’s protagonist, the restaurant is equal parts sophisticated and sanguinary, offering the world’s best beef and truffles plated up in the form of some seriously haute dude food. With its exposed bricks, neon signage and slick velour banquettes, Sackville’s calls to mind uptown Manhattan yuppie outposts like JG Melon and PJ Clarke’s, but the steaks and burgers here are a morsel more posh, crafted with elitist ingredients like heart of Wagyu ribeye, seared foie gras and truffle mayo – all of which can be found in the restaurant’s signature £38 burger. It’s damn good too, overseen by chef Wayne Dixon, who formerly rattled the pans at Maze Grill, with Pollen Street Social alum Monica Berg helming the basement bolthole bar downstairs. All in, I’m confident that even Mr Bateman would rate Sackville’s as a cut above the rest. ■
MIKE GIBSON seeks out classic British and French hospitality at the
Lanesborough’s new restaurant Céleste, and finds a perfect match
Food is served with a typically French flourish, staff lifting the elegant cloches in sync 112
at and a bracing palate-cleanser before earthy girolles in jus with pork belly – welcomed as an accoutrement, rather than the main event. Food is served with a typically French flourish, staff lifting the cloches in sync. Turbot arrives lightly poached, with pak choi and a wonderfully moreish carrot purée. Home county lamb, we’re told, is to be replaced by Angus beef fillet, served with braised lettuce, which works beautifully, and roasted bone marrow, which has a delicious flavour, but a texture that’s harder to get to grips with. There’s no debt to France with the wine, though: the smoky boldness of a Californian cabernet sauvignon is needed for the job here. Cashew praline, dark chocolate mousse and coffee ice cream balances sweet and light with dark and serious. But it’s the cheese course that leaves a lasting impression: a mixture of powerful French and English classics brings home just how well our countries can work together. An entente cordiale, you could say. ■ For reservations: 020 7259 5599; lanesborough.com
For more info, see:
T STARTS, AS many good meals do, with champagne. Not, by any means, the most notable moment of a dinner full of lavish touches, but it’s an occasional and welcome break from the pre-dinner cocktail – which is ironic, given that this is a restaurant that’s just been given a thorough shake-up. Any new restaurant at the Lanesborough hotel has high standards to uphold, and here, there’s the sense that French hospitality in a resolutely British setting, as per Céleste, is the perfect fit. The first course – a selection of heritage tomatoes – is both beautiful to look
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ITH SUCH BUSY lifestyles, we all want to ensure that we’re getting the most out of the time we put into exercise in order to achieve the desired results. Incorporating a heart-rate monitor into your training is one of the most effective ways to tailor, manage and maximise your fitness regime. Monitoring your heart rate during exercise allows you to gain a real-time overview of how hard you’re working, as well as the time it takes to recover and reach your resting heart rate, which is a good indicator of your overall fitness level. By structuring your workout based on your heart rate and specific heart-rate ‘zones’, it is also possible to increase your metabolic efficiency, so that you can burn fat effectively and release more energy. The HIIT group training studio Speedflex uses heart-rate monitoring in all of its sessions, motivating users to work at their optimum level and burn more calories than they thought possible. “Speedflex combines high-intensity cardiovascular exercise with resistance
training for an effective, trainer-led workout, which can really help users to elevate their heart rate and increase their fitness levels,” says Matt Bolam, head trainer at Speedflex. “All of our sessions incorporate heart-rate monitors, which we beslieve help to motivate our customers, allowing them to create benchmarks for themselves and work to their maximum and beat their personal best. “By monitoring individuals’ heart rates, we can also provide accurate and valuable feedback at the end of each session, letting our members know how many calories they have burnt and the time spent in high-
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intensity training zones, which helps progress fitness levels, burn fat and improve stamina.” Speedflex Lombard Street is a dedicated training studio that offers circuit-based group exercise sessions for all ages and abilities, based around unique Speedflex machines. Designed specifically to create resistance based on your own body strength, Speedflex allows you to work out at your own pace without the risk of injury and little to no postexercise muscle soreness. Each circuit combines a series of exercises on the Speedflex machines, together with traditional auxiliary exercises, to keep your heart rate elevated and in a high-intensity zone enhancing strength and fitness as well as optimising fat burn and weight loss. ■ Experience the full range of benefits that heartrate training offers at Speedflex London by taking advantage of an exclusive two-week free trial for square mile readers. To book your trial, contact
Speedflex Lombard Street on 0844 543 3631 or email firstname.lastname@example.org and quote ‘Square Mile’. For more information and prices, please visit speedflex.com.
GOLF JASON DAY
THE PLAYER PHOTOGRAPH by Matthew Lewis / Getty Images
Australian golfers get a pretty raw deal when it comes to the fame game. With the exception of Greg Norman, whose Shark-branded PR machine and shock of golden hair got him noticed all over the world, most topflight Aussies fly some distance beneath the radar when it comes to global recognition. Much of that is down to them having to leave their motherland at birth if they are to make it on the professional tours. However, one Aussie who is doing his best to put his head above the parapet is Jason Day, an unassuming 27 year old from Queensland who has risen to third in the world rankings following his stunning three-shot victory in the US PGA Championship, and four others wins on the PGA Tour in the last 12 months. The manner of his win at Whistling Straits, where he went head to head with world No 1 Jordan Spieth and came out on top, speaks volumes for Day’s competitive spirit, which showed no sign of having suffered any lasting damage following the litany of near misses that he has endured in the majors over the last few years. The most recent disappointment came at the Open in July, where just a single shot separated him from the play-off won by Zach Johnson. Inspired to take up golf after reading Tiger Woods’ How I Play Golf as a 12 year old, Day moved to Texas in his late teens to pursue his dream of following his hero. Fast forward ten years, and Woods and Day are close friends, although Day’s career is going in completely the opposite direction to that of Woods. The only fly in Day’s ointment has been a series of blackouts that he has suffered on the golf course since last summer, most recently at the US Open in June, where he fell to the ground half-way through the second round after suffering another dizzy spell. After bravely battling to finish ninth, a subsequent trip to a specialist revealed a severe case of vertigo, linked to an ear infection that has caused potentially permanent damage. A course of antibiotics, which he may have to take for the rest of his career, seems to have done the trick, and we can all look forward to watching this supremely-gifted talent challenge for further major titles – and perhaps the coveted No 1 spot. ■
GOOD GOLFING, VIETNAM! Following the opening of a group of luxury resorts with courses, Vietnam is well on the way to putting itself on the golf holiday map, writes NICK BAYLY
EASTERN PROMISE: Vietnam’s golfing scene is booming, and one of the courses leading the way is The Bluffs, 7,000-yards of undulating, Greg-Norman designed greens and fairways
UILD IT THEY will come.’ Well, that was
Kevin Costner’s ghostly inspiration for carving out a baseball field in his backyard in the film Field of Dreams, but the same principle could apply to the thinking behind Vietnam’s golf development, which is dangling the carrot of a small, but finelychiselled collection of world-class golf courses designed by some world-class architects to attract a new and intrepid generation of longhaul travelling golfers to its shores. Throw in an inviting climate, high-quality accommodation, stunning beaches, a safe environment, interesting local food, culture and history, friendly people, and sensiblypriced green fees, and the result is a country that has seen its golf visitor numbers rise from virtually zero five years ago, to more than 250,000 rounds to date, and counting. Despite being slightly off the traditionallybeaten track as far as golfers are concerned,
Vietnam is making a strong case for being the Far East’s next hot golfing destination on the back of a trio of top tracks located on what is being called the ‘Golf Coast Vietnam’. Encompassing the coastal cities of Danang, Hoi An, Hue and Lang Co, all of which are accessible from Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi, the Central Coast offers more than 35 miles of white sandy beaches dotted at regular intervals with luxury resorts operated by the likes of Intercontinental, Hyatt and Accor. Many of these offer exceptional courses already highly ranked in the world top 100 lists. Here’s our pick of where to play and stay.
DANANG GOLF CLUB, DIEN NGOC Located next to Montgomerie Links, the Dunes Course at Danang is where The Shark, aka Greg Norman, first cut his teeth as far as golf in Vietnam is concerned. Opened five years ago, it forms part of the Danang Beach Resort,
an upmarket destination that hugs Vietnam’s coastline 15 minutes south of Danang. As its name suggests, Norman’s design boasts acres of rugged sand dunes interspersed with rippled fairways and vast bunkers that catch anything marginally offline. Despite its seaside location, there’s only one hole – the signature par-three 16th – that actually offers a view of Vietnam’s East Sea. Female caddies, who are mandatory at many courses in Vietnam, tote huge ➤
Vietnam is making a strong case for being the Far East’s next hot golfing destination squaremile.com
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SWINGING TO SUCCESS: Vietnam is attracting a new wave of golfers. Courses leading the way in the country’s golfing takeover include (clockwise from here) Danang; The Bluffs (and The Grand Ho Tram Hotel); Laguna Lang Co and Montgomerie Links
➤ umbrellas to protect golfers from the sun and, despite limited English, are also handy when it comes to lining up putts on Greg’s fiendishly difficult greens, which are a good deal faster than your average office carpet. Green fees: £70, dananggolfclub.com
THE BLUFFS, GRAND HO TRAM STRIP The second of Greg Norman’s design projects in Vietnam, which opened in October last year, is located 80 miles south east of Ho Chi Minh City, and forms part of Vietnam’s first integrated casino and golf resort, Grand Ho Tram Strip. Vegas meets Vietnam, if you like. Ten years in the planning, the 18-hole layout is routed around an exposed coastal plateau, with many of the fairways bordered by towering seaside dunes, while the greens feature some extraordinary contours that are fast becoming Norman’s trademark. It’s a rollocking, roller coaster of a ride from start to finish, with a two-club wind almost a constant factor on the hugely undulating 7,000-yard layout. Sadly, the opportunity to build a few holes hard by the sea was lost in favour of property development, but nevertheless the elevated course offers some stunning views, especially from the fourth green, which delivers an impressive 360-degree vista of the entire complex. Golfers tend to stay in on-site Grand Hotel, which is no hardship given its five-star status. Green fees: £125, thebluffshotram.com
LAGUNA LANG CO, DANANG There are few corners of the globe where Sir Nick Faldo hasn’t got his hands figuratively dirty building golf courses, so it was only a matter of time before the six-time major winner broke soil in Vietnam. He’s done so at Laguna Lang Co, an impressive championship course located 30 minutes north of Danang, which opened two years ago. Forming part of an upscale development that includes two Laguna-operated resorts, Angsana and Banyan Tree, Lang Co is certainly one of S’Nick’s boldest creations, with the course offering the unique experience of journeying through a wide variety of landscapes, from paddy fields and ➤
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WHERE IT ALL BEGAN: Vietnam Golf & Country Club was one of the first golf clubs to open in the country, nearly 20 years ago. There are two 18hole courses, and the 6,900-yard East course – designed by Lee Trevino – is a beautiful introduction to playing the game in Vietnam
➤ woodlands, to beachfront and sand dunes. Huge waste bunkers and water features add to the intriguing mix of holes on this links-style out-and-back course, which plays more than 7,000 yards from the back tees, although a far more friendly 5,263 from the reds. The adjacent resorts, which offer the usual mix of international restaurants, huge swimming pools and pampering, relaxing spas, are somewhat remote – but then so was Faldo during his heyday… Green fees: £65, langunalangco.com
CADDY POWER: MotoCaddy’s designers took inspiration for their new C-Tech Trolley following a visit to McLaren’s Woking HQ. It’s loaded with features that even Jenson Button would be proud to see in his car, including a ten-speed slip differential gear box. £1,800,
MONTGOMERIE LINKS, DANANG Located midway between Unesco world heritage site Hoi An and Danang – Vietnam’s vibrant third largest city – Colin Montgomerie’s gift to the golf offering in Vietnam is a beautifully-presented parkland course, which, as is the former Ryder Cup captain’s wont, has a slightly linksy feel. Although it seems almost churlish to single out a signature hole on such a consistently enjoyable layout, the par-five 12th, which plays slightly uphill to a bunker-riddled fairway, with the green framed by the clubhouse and the famed Marble Mountains in the background, is certainly a very strong candidate. Golfers partial to a bit of war history who stray off the fifth fairway will be interested to find the remains of a concrete bunker, kindly left by US Marines following their landing at Danang during the Vietnam War. Accommodation is offered in an exclusive gated community of 66 private villas located in the heart of the course, some of which are rented out to guests. Each features its own swimming pool, while there is a restaurant, bar and café located in the clubhouse.
Colin Montgomerie’s gift to the golf offering in Vietnam is a beautifullypresented course
Green fees: £80, montgomerielinks.com
some of the above courses, visit golfasian.com
VIETNAM GOLF & COUNTRY CLUB, HO CHI MINH Located just 15 miles from the centre of downtown Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Golf & Country Club was one of the first golf courses to open in Vietnam back in 1997. Carved out of 300 hectares of woodland, it offers two 18-hole courses, the East and West, the former designed by Lee Trevino. A former host of the Vietnam Open on the Asian PGA Tour, the 6,900-yard East course offers treelined fairways and softly-contoured Bermuda grass greens, which provide beautiful putting surfaces all year round. Green fees: £75, vietnamgolfcc.com ■ For golf package itineraries to Vietnam, taking in all or
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Image show a computer generated image. Prices correct at the time of going to press.
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WALL SLEEK . 130 PHOTOGRAPH: Charles Kalpakian Kineticism II wall cabinet courtesy of Galerie BSL and PAD London 2015
THINKING OUTSIDE THE BOX Showing at this year’s PAD London fair, Lebanese designer Charles Kalpakian creates cabinets that play with perspective to create a striking, kaleidoscopic illusion
BOX FRESH Charles Kalpakian’s designs have three influences: France, Lebanon and street-art culture. In Kineticism, these three combine to create a functional sculpture. While capturing your gaze, Kalpakian draws attention to what he calls the “bistability of furniture. Have a glass of wine and watch as your bookcase seems to move. Then stop drinking, probably.
DARE TO BE SQUARE
BE THERE OR BE SQUARE: To see the work in the flesh, head down to the PAD London fair, from 14-18 October, where Charles Kalpakian will be exhibiting, with Galerie BSL..
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Charles Kalpakian’s Kineticism collection incorporates four lacquered-wood wall cabinets that can be custom-made in a variety of colours and sizes. If you’re a fan of Rubik’s Cube-chic (is that a thing? It really should be), you could cover an entire wall with the hypnotic contrasting squares. Mmm, trippy.
THE PENTHOUSE COLLECTION LAUNCHING 24.09.2015
AN EXCLUSIVE PENTHOUSE COLLECTION SET AT THE TOP OF THIS LANDMARK BUILDING WITH PRIVATE TERRACES FEATURING SENSATIONAL VIEWS OF LONDON THE LATERAL PENTHOUSE £3M THE TRIPLEX PENTHOUSE £6M Private viewings commence Thursday 24th September by invitation only For your personal invitation please contact
Jessica Munday on 020 3538 6017
www.telfordhomes.london Prices correct at the time of going to press. Actual photograph of the view from The Penthouses at Parliament House.
JUST IN CASA If you’re after high-end interior design at heavily reduced prices, Casafina is your one-stop shop
MI CASA, NEW CASA If you work in the City, the chances are you know how to spot good value. Casafina, the online homeware store, offers just that – launching new sales each day with up to 70% off. Standard promotions run for 72 hours, while there are some 24 hour sales for real bargains. A dedicated buying team ensures that only the most stylish items make their way onto the site.
THE LONG GAME: As well as its sales, Casafina prides itself on its permanent collections – as Rachel Law, Casafina’s bedroom buyer explains, these “ensure that our customers never miss the perfect pieces needed to form the foundations of their rooms”.
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*Terms and conditions apply. Stamp duty paid on 2 bedroom apartments only with reservations taken up until 11/09/15 leading to completion by 30/10/15. Show Home photography. Pricing correct at time of going to press. Travel times provided by Google Maps and National Rail Enquiries.
DOCK-ROCKIN’ STREETS If you were ever unfortunate enough to visit the old News International building, you’ll know that the redevelopment of London Dock couldn’t come too soon. St George has taken charge and the future is bright
ITUATED TO THE north of the River Thames,
London Dock has been closed to the public for the past 200 years but is set to open once more as a mixed-use development by developer St George. The 15-acre site, once a thriving centre for commerce in high-end merchandise such as wool, silk, ivory and wine, and later home to News International, is being transformed by St George into a mixeduse development incorporating residential, retail, leisure and commercial elements. St George recently unveiled an exclusive collection of penthouses at London Dock. These impressive duplex penthouses will occupy the top two floors of Admiral Wharf and Alexander Wharf, with stunning views towards the Thames and the City, over to Canary Wharf and across Wapping. Boasting contemporary interiors, spectacular cityscape views and close proximity to some of London’s chicest neighbourhoods, these residences are set to become the pinnacle of high-level living in the capital. The three-bedroom, three-bathroom duplex penthouses boast prime positions within the first phase of the development and offer wraparound terraces with views towards the City or Thames, as well as over Gauging Square – the centrepiece of London Dock. Residents will benefit from a wide selection of onsite amenities, including a 24-hour concierge service, a gymnasium, swimming pool, sauna and steam rooms, a treatment room, squash court and screening room. There is also a virtual golf room and wifi-enabled residents’ lounge to take advantage of. Also overlooking Gauging Square is Clipper Wharf, which offers a stunning selection of Manhattan, one-, two- and threebedroom apartments and penthouses. The
Once a thriving centre for commerce then later home to News International, the site is being transformed squaremile.com
DOCK MASTERS: The old News International site in Wapping is being transformed by developer St George. Fortunately, there will now be far more amenities and far fewer phone hackers
apartments feature high-specification interiors including custom-designed kitchens and bathrooms, expansive living spaces, full-height glazing and a balcony or terrace. One of London’s most highly anticipated new developments, London Dock is centrally located, just moments from landmarks including Tower Bridge, the Tower of London, St Katharine Docks and the City. Zone 1 London Underground Station, Tower Hill, is just a short walk away, while Aldgate and Wapping London Overground stations are also close by, providing swift connections to Canary Wharf and the West End, as well as London’s wider transport network.
This summer, St George and Bow Arts Trust delivered 90 new affordable artist studios at the historic Pennington Street Warehouse at London Dock. The studios are the first meanwhile use of the Grade II listed Pennington Street Warehouse, which has been closed to the public for over 200 years. St George is also partnering with Peabody to deliver the first 70 affordable homes at its London Dock development. St George is converting Times House, the former Times magazine offices, into a mix of social and affordable rented family homes, with construction now underway onsite. ■ For more info, see berkeleygroup.co.uk
THE PALM OF YOUR HAND When you’ve had enough of London’s grime, MARK HEDLEY says a trip to West Palm Beach should sort you out – whether it’s courtesy of a $4.5m mansion or just a quick flick through the right coffee-table book
INTER IS COMING. London’s hit the
PHOTOGRAPHS by Jessica Klewicki Glynn
dimmer switch and is descending from a light shade of grey to a slightly darker shade of grey. (At no stage are any of these shades ‘sexy’, by the way.) The sunny climes of Palm Springs certainly feel a long way from the shadowy streets of Poultry and Piccadilly right about now. But fret not – we have the solution. In fact, we have three solutions – on a sliding scale of different budgets. The first is to buy this house – 260 Palmetto Lane. For $4.5m, you could have your very own mansion in West Palm Beach’s Bamboo Hill. The Florida home is designed with a large living room, soaring ceilings, and open beams with a series of French doors that open to the terrace and lush gardens.
The second option is to take inspiration from its current owner, renowned interior designer Lars Bolander, and redo your own home’s decor. Bolander’s furnishings nod to exotic places and far-flung shores. Although the architecture is very ‘plantation’, the interior is far more diverse and worldly. And your final, most realistic option is to get your hands on Tropical Chic: Palm Beach at Home photographed by Jessica Klewicki Glynn. This beautiful coffee-table book will transport you – at least temporarily – to a more glamorous world. And it won’t cost you $4.5m, either – more in the realms of £40. ■ ‘Tropical Chic: Palm Beach at Home’ (£40; Thames & Hudson). 260 Palmetto Lane is available for $4.5m from
HORSE PLAY: Lars Bolander’s 8,751sq ft mansion was designed to benefit from a seamless flow between interior and exterior spaces. As well as Bolander’s home, photographer Jessica Klewicki Glynn has captured a whole host of other dazzling Palm Beach real estate, most of which will rarely come up for sale nor be affordable if it ever did. But it’s always nice to look, right?
+ TO ADVERTISE IN THIS SECTION PLEASE CALL 020 7819 9999
WE WORK IN PERFECT HARMONY WITH OUR CLIENTS TO MAKE SURE WE FIND THEM THE RIGHT CANDIDATE
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Swiss-made, limited edition of only 40 pieces, sapphire glass. Maxim on black, brown or blue leather strap £445. See the full collection at www.dumaurierwatches.com T: 0845 5193074
MY LEATHER MANBAG
The Mustang leather bag – the classic design Mustang Crazy Horse Satchel £99 in either dark or light shade. Constructed from the finest leather, its 16 inch length makes it the perfect size for dayto-day use.
Happy in your work? ‘Head Conkerer’ Rupes jacked it all in to set up Conker Spirit, Dorset’s first gin distillery. Bright and refreshing and with just 60 bottle batches, you’ll be wanting to hunt down the Dorset Dry. That’s the Spirit! Buy at www.conkerspirit.co.uk
Handmade in France, these calf hair loafers from the Cowboy collection by Galet are perfect for this autumn. Featuring anti-slip stitched rubber soles, they offer supreme comfort, flexibility and durability. Galet is a French luxury brand that specialises in casual loafers for men. The shoes are handmade in an atelier outside Paris using traditional techniques passed down for generations. (£195)
Please use voucher code SQUARE15 at checkout for 15% discount across the website. Free delivery. W: myleathermanbag.com T: 0333 1234 104
The slappable light that will make you smile! A bottom shaped light that illuminates in 10 vibrant colours. On sale for £149 via www.slapit.me (including free shipping to the UK) Email email@example.com for enquiries.
FIVE O’CLOCK PRODUCTS
Authentic and locally handmade male grooming products, from the ingredients within and right down to the packaging. The Five O’clock range is sourced from Yorkshire with pride, valuing local business and ethics.
– Indigo Outdoor Jacket in Aran Design, shawl collar with button-toggle and loop fastener. – Two pockets-small ribbing. – Producers of unique and specialised indigo knitwear. – Made to fade-made to Last. – 100% cotton-machine washable.
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W: Available from www.originalblues.uk Or for further information call us on 020 8813 7766
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Opal engagement ring by NorthCoastCottage Jewellery Design, which donates a portion of every sale to causes such as human rights, poverty, hunger, legal aid, autism, climate change and cancer research. Customers can even direct where that portion of their purchase should go.
The Scallywag name and endearing canine character are most fitting for this richly spiced and deliciously sweet Speyside Malt Scotch Whisky from Douglas Laing. Bottled at 46% alcohol strength, Scallywag is a marriage of the finest, sherry cask matured Speyside Malts. It’s delicious neat, over ice, or even in a Manhattan cocktail.
Autumn in the City squaremile.com |
Michael Kors Invitation
PHOTOGRAPHS Paul McCartney, Magical Mystery Tour, Torquay, 1967, by Herman Selleslags.; Forever by Ai Weiwei, © Nick Turpin Photography; Bompas & Parr by Denis Sinyakov
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Herman Selleslags’ portrait of Paul McCartney; Ai Weiwei’s Forever is to be erected outside the Gherkin; breathable booze at Bompas & Parr’s pop-up; a Salon QP guest
HERMAN SELLESLAGS: THE ARCHIVES
SCULPTURE IN THE CITY
88-Gallery; 9-17 October 2015
Various locations; until May 2016
Seminal icons of music, film and sport from the 1960s and 1970s are preserved in time in this exhibition by prolific but retiring Belgian photographer, Herman Selleslags. Often taken without a flash, there is an intimacy to his snaps that offers a glimpse into the world of his subjects, who include The Rolling Stones and The Beatles.
Sculpture in the City – a free outdoor exhibition of contemporary sculptures – returns this month running until May 2016. This year’s line-up includes Ai Weiwei’s Forever, a mass of geometrically stacked steel bikes in front of the Gherkin. Very pretty – and they might also come in handy when all the Boris bikes are already taken.
For more information: 88-gallery.com
For more information: cityoflondon.gov.uk
BOMPAS & PARR’S BREATHABLE BAR
Saatchi Gallery; 12-14 November
Borough Market; 30 July-1 January 2016
From grandes maisons to independent watchmakers, SalonQP will once again put many of the world’s finest watches before an audience of watch collectors and enthusiasts. Set in the Saatchi Gallery, the show will feature haute horlogerie brands including Chopard and Bremont. Plenty of fodder for your Christmas wish list, then.
If you’ve had a stressful day at the office, take a deep breath at Bompas & Parr’s nutty new pop-up: the dense gin and tonic mist will chill you out in minutes. At Alcoholic Architecture, you’re invited to don a plastic poncho, pump your fists blindly in the air to techno, and get wobbly as you soak up booze through your pores.
For more information: salonqp.com/tickets
For more information: bompasandparr.com
ICHAEL KORS IS a worldrenowned designer of luxury accessories and ready-to-wear, offering a lifestyle for the consummate jet setter that is as sophisticated as it is indulgent and as glamorous as it is modern. We’ve partnered with them for an evening on 4 November 2015 from 6.30-9.30pm for your chance to browse city essentials from the Fall 2015 collection over drinks and canapés as well as receive a complimentary gift upon arrival. Register your interest for this event using our free online membership service on squaremile.com
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THE WHISKY ANGEL
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HANDLEYS OF LONDON
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From cinemas, gyms or bowling alleys to spas, basement conversions allow Londoners to transform a house into a dream home. Loft conversion and extension specialist Simply Construction Group has now launched Simply Basement; a full design and build basement conversion service. To book your free no obligation quote:
‘Alex’ – the perfect leather satchel? It’s Gusti Leather’s best seller here in the UK and does not fail to attract attention. Made from vegetabletanned Indian goat leather, ‘Alex’ is not only superbly practical for work or travelling, but it is also a natural and sustainable leather product. Looking smart without the guilty conscious or burning a hole in your wallet? What more could you ask for? ‘Alex’ leather satchel, £50.50.
We are online retailers of whiskies, gins and other fine spirits that deliver a divine experience. Our personalised whiskies are a special gift, every bottle is unique. Choose from a selection of limited edition single cask, cask strength whiskies which are exclusive to us. Every bottle is filled from the cask, sealed in wax and completed with a handwritten label with your special message.
Home to handcrafted bespoke jewellery, made from only the most beautiful and ethical diamonds. Proud to create handcrafted jewellery in the heart of London’s jewellery quarter, Hatton Garden. With two generations of expertise in Diamond Grading, Handleys of London provides exquisite artistry, immaculate craftsmanship and unrivalled service at the centre of the UK’s diamond trade.
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Here We Mo Again squaremile.com |
PHOTOGRAPH by Universal Television / The Kobal Collection
The first documented moustache was captured in a portrait of an ancient Iranian horseman dating back to 300 BC. While the ’tache hasn’t changed much since then, it has become more mainstream thanks to mo’ legends like Clark Gable, Tom Selleck [pictured] and Daley Thompson shaving the way for the modern man to rock the upper lip furniture year round. If you’re not quite ready for that commitment,
ON THE TOWN
November – or Movember – is your chance to grow your mo’ for a month in order to raise money for men’s health causes. If you’re planning on joining in, make sure you’re part of the Square Mile Movember Challenge. Last year we not only raised nearly £600,000, we were the largest fundraiser in the UK – and the seventh largest in the world. Take that, Wall Street! (We beat our US
cousins by £717.) Sign up now on
Fancy a head start? We’re inviting a limited number of readers to the official Movember shave-down event at Neville’s at Shoreditch House on 28 October. Enjoy drinks with your fellow mo’ bros and mo’ sistas while receiving complimentary shaves from the team at Neville’s. Visit squaremile.com/events to register your place for free. ■
London Burning squaremile.com |
STRIP TEASE: Henry Hudson and friends photographed in Ye Olde Axe, East London’s oldest strip club, in the style of William Hogarth’s The Rake’s Progress. Alexandra Wilk (artist), Philip Colbert (fashion designer), Henry Hudson (artist), Idina Moncreiffe (model), Isamaya Ffrench (makeup artist), Gerald Mak (artist), Joe Sweeney (artist), Nimrod Kamer (writer), Pierre Smith-Stewart (artist), Katie Shaw (artist) and Molly Parkin (artist, author and Francis Bacon’s muse).
PHOTOGRAPH © 2015 TransGlobe Publishing, Photography: Robin Friend
LONDON BURNING It might not always seem like it when you’re faced with the daily grind on a grey morning, but you work in the most creative and exciting city in the world. If you need a reminder, we suggest you pick up a copy of London Burning – a new book that documents the creative talents of this fair city,
including interviews with everyone from Grayson Perry to Guy Ritchie. It also includes some fantastic photography – such as taken in Ye Olde Axe in Shoreditch, one of London’s oldest strip clubs. ■ London Burning: Portraits from a Creative City is available from 12 October for £58 (Thames & Hudson).
Go the extra mile squaremile.com |
WIN! WIN! WIN!
Next issue, we’re teaming up with Globe-Trotter to offer the winner a luxurious leather passport holder and luggage tag from its JET range, worth £120 each. Globe-Trotter counted Captain Scott and Sir Winston Churchill as patrons, so you will be in good company. To enter, just take a great photo with your latest copy of square mile, and email it to firstname.lastname@example.org
It looks like the square mile faithful has been having a tough time of it over the summer. (Ahem.) Congratulations to this month’s winner David Roll, who took his Ray Winston edition to a remote bay near the Greek island of
Skiathos on his summer sailing break. The runners-up were both in Italy: Aby Dunsby in Monastero Santa Rosa near Amalfi, and Jason Navarro in Lasize, Lake Garda. ■ Send us your high-resolution jpegs to email@example.com.
Square Mile Magazine, Issue 105, Michael Fassbender