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foodism uses paper from sustainable sources
ell, summer was fun, wasn’t it? All those days when your weather app was redundant because it was guaranteed to be blue skies and skinmelting heat; all those games when you just knew England were going to win (until they didn’t). And yet somehow it isn’t over, because here we are, entering August, officially (says us) the Best Month of Summer. Think of it as a second coming of the greatest and most elusive season of all; or a pre-Indian summer summer; or the juicy main course you can sink your teeth into after the hot and hazy Mediterranean-style sharing plates of June and July. Either way, we know what we’re going to be doing in August: loads of eating and drinking, preferably outside (weather permitting) and preferably with friends (friends permitting). If you’re wondering what, where, why and how the foodism team are going to be doing all this eating and drinking, you’re in luck – head to page 44 for our guide to the places, products, tips and events that’ll get you through your late-summer feasting. In less obviously summery but still very happy news, we’re really proud to say we won the Campaigning and Investigative Food Work Award at June’s Guild of Food Writers Awards for foodism’s sustainability special. The GFWs are an industry fixture, and it’s an honour to be named among the esteemed past winners of the award. Look out for this year’s sustainability special next month – we promise it’s going to be another essential read. f
FRONT COVER: Photography by Ian Dingle
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016 THE ESCAPIST 018 WEAPONS OF CHOICE 023 RECIPES 030 COLUMNS 032 THE RADAR 034 FOODISM 100 037 BEER: HOP CULTURE
044 SUMMER IN LONDON 054 ALL-FEMALE COLLECTIVES 060 ADAM HANDLING 070 ITALIAN COFFEE 076 MIXOLOGY: LITTLE BAT
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098 MAURITIUS 104 PARIS 106 RICHARD H TURNER 109 THE DIGEST 112 BOTTLE SERVICE 121 THE SELECTOR
— PART 1 —
GRAZE “REDCHURCH BREWS ITS SOUR BEERS WITH A WILD YEAST CAPTURED ON-SITE AND SEASONAL FRUIT FROM A HERITAGE FARM IN KENT” TOM POWELL ON BETHNAL GREEN-BASED BREWERY REDCHURCH, 037
014 THE FOODIST | 018 WEAPONS OF CHOICE | 023 RECIPES 030 COLUMNS | 032 THE RADAR | 034 FOODISM 100 | 037 HOP CULTURE
THE LONDON LARDER
This month: Poptails by LAPP
A controversial licensing policy could spell disaster for Hackney’s nightlife scene, writes Mike Gibson
HIS COLUMN ISN’T often political, because on the face of it, food, drink and going out aren’t political. Or, at least, they aren’t until they are. The day before the time of writing, Hackney Council pushed through a new licensing policy, to be implemented across the length and breadth of the borough. This comes after a special consultation with residents. According to residents’ group We Love Hackney, “75% of Hackney residents said they were opposed to the council’s plans for a clamp down on the borough’s night-time economy.” It goes on to break down those figures further: ◆◆ 77% were against doubling the size of the Shoreditch Special Policy Area, where new licensed venues are effectively banned. ◆◆ 84% were against making new bars close at 11pm on weekdays and midnight at weekends, anywhere in the borough. ◆◆ 75% were against closing outside areas at 10pm across the borough. It’s easy to forget that the borough of
Hackney includes the neighbourhoods of, among others, Dalston, Stoke Newington, Haggerston, Clapton, Hackney Wick and – yes – Shoreditch. The move essentially tightens larger, richer companies’ stranglehold on space, while taking away from the night-time economy – a massive contributor to jobs across the borough. It means new venues will have much earlier curfews – clubs closing at 11pm and night markets closing at 10pm. It’s hard to see why Hackney’s councillors decided to push the policy through against seemingly overwhelming opposition. And it’s also dispiriting to see elected officials seemingly acting on their own agendas and ignoring the will of residents. If there’s to be a solution, though, it’ll be in feeding back to councillors and making your feelings known. Because, as it stands, this affects more than just Hackney residents; it’s a huge blow to anyone who loves going out in one of London’s most eclectic, vibrant boroughs. f To register for updates, go to welovehackney.org. If you’re a Hackney resident, you can write to your local councillor at writetothem.com
What’s the product? Lapp's 'poptails' are a cross between a cocktail and a sorbet. They're basically Calippos for big kids and they might just be our new favourite summer treat.
Who makes it? Friends Cécilia Thomas and Laura Faeh met while Cécilia was interning at a vodka brand (so you know they know their stuff). In spring of 2016 they set up Lapp and started making their brand of funky, fresh alcoholic ice pops in East London.
What does it taste like? Well, there are seven different flavours (two of which are non-alcoholic). Of course we tried them all – for research purposes, obviously. Our favourites? The refreshingly sharp prosecco and blood orange spritz poptail. Followed by the Limon Colada, because limoncello and coconut milk are a match made in heaven. The whisky sour is up there on our list, too, but we're not entirely sure we'd buy it again – there's such a thing as too punchy, you know?
Where can I get it? These fruity ice pops are stocked at SPAR by EAT 17 in Homerton, Walthamstow and Bishop’s Stortford. You can also find them on UberEats and a handful of venues in South East London, including Studio Spaces E2 and The White Hart in New Cross. poptailsbylapp.com f
FROM THE PLEASURE GARDENS
AWARDED DOUBLE GOLD AT THE SAN FRANCISCO WORLD SPIRITS COMPETITION 2018
DONâ€™T MIND IF WE DO!
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TOP THREE P I CNI C ES SEN TIALS
If scampi fries are the Fosters of the snack world, Corkers’ handcooked duck and hoisin sauce crisps, made with award-winning natural potatoes, are a locally brewed, smallbatch IPA. They say you’re saucy and sophisticated, with a hint of the exotic. Because you are, obviously. corkerscrisps.co.uk
Let’s just confirm something that everyone already knows: you can’t knock a good scotch egg, and while we have you, let’s just say Scotchtails eggs aren’t just ‘good’, they’re pretty phenomenal. Made in Hackney using Clarence Court’s signature orangeyolked Burford Browns, they come in a range of moreish flavours, from black pudding to veggie-friendly beetroot and lentil. scotchtails.com
Was there ever a better accompaniment to a crisp, cold beer or a glass of wine than a handful or five of juicy olives, doused in fresh herbs and spices? No, probably not. Especially not when delivered to your door by Borough Olives, who can post you delightful morsels like the super mammoth olives with basil and garlic, or black tapenade. borougholives.co.uk
Jensen’s Gin founder Christian Jensen on his path from banking to distilling
’VE ALWAYS LOVED good gin, especially in a dry martini, but around 2000 I’d started to find it harder to find a true London gin. I was working in Tokyo as a banking specialist, and I would often wind down over a martini. One night, I began lamenting to the bartender about the loss of old-style gins. To my surprise he agreed, and gave me a taste from a 1960s bottle and one from 2000. What I found were two very different spirits. A few years later – after a few more tastings of vintage gins the bartender had managed
to source – it was time for me to come back to London. The bartender gave me one of these bottles as a parting gift and said, jokingly, “You should make some of your own gin.” This got me thinking. Research led me onto Charles Maxwell, a master distiller at Thames Distillery. I met him, and I told him I wanted to create a gin. He said I was mad, and that I should be making vodka as that was the more popular drink at the time. I manage to convince him that I wanted to create gin “as it should be” and so we set about creating a London Dry gin resembling the
old-style gins I’d tasted. Over a year of trial and error, and I got the result I wanted: a classic, smooth gin, perfect for a martini. Then, even more curious about gin, further research led me to a distiller’s handbook from the 1800s and within it a recipe for another lost style of gin – Old Tom. So we started producing this as well. I wanted the gin to be distilled by me under the Jensen’s name, so I commissioned a still with John Dore & Co. It now sits under our archway in Bermondsey, where we’ve distilled ever since. I’m still involved in the banking sector but my real passion lies with producing and drinking the perfect martini. f jensens.co.uk
Photograph by [Chris Jensen] Addie Chinn; [Corkers] Cath Lowe; [Scotchtails] Mowie Kay;
THE ULTIMATE GIN & TONIC PAIRING GUIDE
Gin is only as good as the tonic it’s paired with. That’s why our award-winning tonics have been carefully crafted to complement the varied flavours of gin. Find the perfect tonic water for your favourite gin at fever-tree.com
WEAPONS OF CHOICE A nifty new grill, razor-sharp knife set and a steak stamp? Dinner’s coming together nicely… PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARRISON
J OY STORY JOY STOVE LARGE, ÂŁ122 An ingenious little charcoal burner made from recycled aeroplane parts thatâ€™s great for grilling. It turns into a stove for cooking other stuff outdoors, too. joystove.com
Photograph by ###
G R E AT ST E AKS ROBERT WELCH STEAK KNIFE SET, £25.99 FOR SIX A quintessential set of steak knives – beautifully designed and crafted by British cutlery brand Robert Welch. lakeland.co.uk
LODGE CAST IRON GRILL PRESS, £49.99 There’s nothing like a sexy bit of iron to stamp down your steak – this one will ensure it’s cooked evenly. lakeland.co.uk
A RT O F GLASS RIEDEL GIN SET, ÂŁ37.50 This beautiful machine-made tumbler set from glassware titan Riedel is crisp, delicate and shapely â€“ a perfect alternative to a chunky copa glass. riedel.com
ÂŠ2018 Dark Horse Wines, Modesto, CA. All rights reserved.
SWEET AS HONEY
The new book from Sarit Packer and Itamar Srulovich of Honey & Co is inspired by dishes made at home with love PHOTOGRAPHS BY PATRICIA NIVEN
HEN SARIT PACKER and Itamar Srulovich moved to London from Israel in 2004, it was recreating childhood meals in the kitchen of their Clapham flat that helped them combat homesickness. As they so often do, the familiar flavours of home provided comfort and evoked feelings of happiness. Now, the award-winning chefs – who together opened Fitzrovia restaurant Honey & Co – have released At Home: Middle Eastern Recipes from Our Kitchen, a book of the recipes that helped them find their way, and
make their names, in the UK. It’s a move away from their public personas, an invitation inside their home, and a glimpse into how the couple cook for themselves and their friends. From breads to bakes, salads to sweets, it’s a total celebration of Middle Eastern cooking. More than that, though, it’s an insight into how important food can be. After all, as they write in the intro, “Life is complex, but cooking is easy, and something good is guaranteed to happen if you just follow the recipe.” Give the following dishes a go and you’ll be hard-pressed to disagree... f
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FOODISM RECIPES, IN ASSOCIATION WITH DARK HORSE WINE Photograph by ###
Dark Horse Wine’s passion is crafting bold wines that deliver the unexpected. Dark Horse’s winemaker, Beth Liston, is constantly experimenting with new winemaking techniques, championing originality and, above all, taste.
She’s a winemaker who brings her balance of classic technique and game-changing innovation to every single bottle. The result is a collection of bold, exceptional wines that defy expectation. For more information, visit darkhorsewine.co.uk
Honey & Co’s
◆◆ 10 mins
◆◆ 20 mins
Smoky freekeh wheat comes together with sweet cherries for an easyto-make, refreshing salad that’s big enough for a party or barbecue
h herbs Tons of fres this really bring ty ui fr t, an vibr salad to life
I N GREDI EN TS For the freekeh ◆◆ 250g dried freekeh ◆◆ 2 celery sticks
◆◆ 1 carrot, peeled and halved
◆◆ 1 bay leaf
◆◆ 2 tbsp olive oil ◆◆ 1 tsp salt
For the salad ◆◆ Juice and zest of 1 lemon
◆◆ 1 small bunch of parsley, leaves
picked and roughly chopped
◆◆ 60g roasted almonds, chopped
REEKEH WHEAT HAS a subtle smoky flavour that comes from the way it’s harvested: the wheat is picked while the sheaves are still green, then left to dry and carefully set on fire. Here it’s used with sweet, juicy cherries and plenty of fresh herbs.
◆◆ 1 celery heart (at the centre of a
◆◆ 1 small bunch of tarragon, leaves
picked and roughly chopped
◆◆ 1 small bunch of mint, leaves picked
and roughly chopped
◆◆ 60g roasted pistachios, chopped ◆◆ 300g cherries, pitted
bunch of celery), quartered and stalks finely chopped ◆◆ 1 tsp sea salt ◆◆ 3 tbsp olive oil
1 Rinse the freekeh under cold water, then place in a large pan and cover with 1 litre of fresh water. Add the celery, carrot and bay leaf, and bring to the boil over a high heat. 2 Remove any foam that comes to the top
and reduce the heat to medium. Add the olive oil and salt, and simmer for about 20 minutes, or until the freekeh is just al dente. The timing may vary as there are different grades of grain. 3 Drain the freekeh and use tongs or a fork to remove the vegetables and bay leaf. Taste to see if you need to add a little more olive oil and salt. Best to do this when the freekeh is hot, as it will absorb the flavours better. 4 Transfer to a serving bowl and allow to cool before mixing in all the salad ingredients. Toss with a light hand to combine, and taste for seasoning again before serving. f
Honey & Co’s
PRAWN AND PEA TAGINE
◆◆ 20 mins
◆◆ 25 mins
This summer stew tastes as good as it looks – and is quick enough to become a favourite for a simple yet sophisticated midweek supper
HOUGHT TAGINE WAS all about beef or lamb? This prawn version is hearty and rich in flavour, but is light enough to work well on a warm summer’s evening.
Photograph by Patricia Niven
1 Place the olive oil in a tagine or heavybased pan with a well-fitting lid and heat on a medium-low setting. 2 Chop the spring onions. Retain the green parts for later and place the white parts in the pan with the crushed garlic. 3 Sauté for 1 minute, then add the potato halves (or cubes) and a sprinkling of salt. Sauté for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally and keeping the heat low. 4 Stir in the preserved lemons and half the peas, then add the turmeric, saffron and coriander seeds. Season with another pinch of salt and sauté for another minute. 5 If you have used peas in their pods, boil some water and pour two cups over the empty shells; they will infuse and give the water added flavour. If you don’t have any pea pods, just use boiling water. 6 Add one cup of the water to the tagine. Increase the heat to bring to the boil, then cover and cook for 5 minutes. 7 Open the lid carefully and place the prawns in the liquid, pushing them in between the potatoes and peas. Top with the remaining peas and the green parts of the spring onions, and season well with salt and pepper. If there isn’t much liquid left, top it up a little with more boiling water (infused, if you have it) so that it just covers the prawns. 8 Replace the lid and cook for 8–10 minutes. The prawns should have turned a deep pink. If they are really large, it may take a couple more minutes, but don’t leave them to cook for too long. Serve immediately. f
ING R E DIE NTS ◆◆ 2 tbsp olive oil
◆◆ 5 large spring onions
e Really simpl ingredients make combine to stew ng ni un st is th
◆◆ 2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed ◆◆ 200g baby potatoes, peeled and
halved, or large potatoes, cubed
◆◆ 30g preserved lemons, chopped
◆◆ 150g shelled peas (if you can get
fresh pods, buy 400g and retain the pods in a large bowl) ◆◆ a pinch of ground turmeric ◆◆ a pinch of saffron ◆◆ 1 tsp whole coriander seeds ◆◆ 8 large prawns, with their shells and heads intact ◆◆ Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Honey & Co’s
CHICKEN IN PLUMS AND SPICE Winner winner, chicken (and plum) dinner. This onepot dish is a sure-fire winner for a casual meal
INGRE DIE NTS ◆◆ 6–8 skin-on chicken thighs
For the marinade ◆◆ 2 plums, quartered and stones
◆◆ 1 tsp whole coriander seeds ◆◆ 1 tsp whole fennel seeds ◆◆ 1 tsp salt
◆◆ 1⁄4 tsp freshly ground black pepper ◆◆ 1 garlic clove, peeled
◆◆ 1 tbsp demerara sugar
◆◆ 3 tbsp red wine vinegar ◆◆ 2 tbsp olive oil
For the roasting tray ◆◆ 2–3 celery sticks, cut into 5cm pieces ◆◆ 1 onion, peeled and cut into wedges ◆◆ 6 garlic cloves, unpeeled
◆◆ 6-8 plums, quartered and stones
◆◆ 1 tbsp demerara sugar ◆◆ a few sprigs of tarragon, to garnish ◆◆ sea salt and freshly ground black
pepper, to taste
Serves ◆◆ 3
Preparation ◆◆ 10 mins
◆◆ 40 mins
OU CAN COOK this dish as often as you like between mid-August and the end of October with a different variety of plums every time,” say Sarit and Itamar. “Greengages are lovely in it, as are sweet mirabelles and spicy damsons… The results will be slightly different but always delicious.” What’s more, the recipe is an easy mix-andbake number, and makes for great leftovers.
1 Make the marinade by blitzing everything
together in a food processor until you have a super-smooth purée. 2 Pour the marinade over the chicken thighs and mix well to make sure they are evenly coated. Cover and place in the fridge to marinate: a couple of hours will do the trick but try to leave it for up to 24 hours. 3 Heat your oven to 220°C/200°C fan. Place the celery, onion, garlic and half the plum quarters in a large roasting tray. 4 Top with the chicken thighs, skin-side up, and pour any remaining marinade over the chicken. Season with some salt and pepper. 5 Roast for 20 minutes, then remove the tray and baste everything well with the juices that have formed at the bottom. 6 Reduce the temperature to 200°C/180°C fan and return the chicken to the oven for a further 10 minutes. 7 Add the remaining plum quarters to the tray. Sprinkle with the sugar and roast for a final 10 minutes. Remove from the oven, baste again and garnish with the tarragon. f
ed Crisp-skinn d an n ke ic ch s are luscious plum bo a killer com
Never uNderestimate a dark horse
GET THE BOOK
Photography by Patricia Niven
At Home: Middle Eastern Recipes from our Kitchen by Sarit Packer and Itamar Srulovich, published by Pavilion Books.
©2018 Dark Horse Wines, Modesto, CA. All rights reserved.
Honey & Co’s
Sweet and sour is an addictive combination in this Middle Eastern take on the much-loved British classic. Your mid-afternoon treat just got a serious upgrade I N GREDI EN TS ◆◆ 240g butter, at room temperature ◆◆ 120g icing sugar ◆◆ 360g plain flour
◆◆ 1 vanilla pod, seeds scraped out ◆◆ 1⁄2 tsp flaky sea salt
ice Sugar and sp ; nice gs in th l al and will ad re tb this shor aple become a st
For the coating ◆◆ 2 tbsp sumac
◆◆ 2 tbsp granulated sugar
◆◆ 24–28 shortbreads
Preparation ◆◆ 20 mins
◆◆ 15 mins
OUR SUMAC GIVES already-moreish shortbread a Middle Eastern twist in this super-easy recipe. Warning: you might eat the whole thing at once – but we’d suggest trying it with a generous scoop or three of good-quality vanilla ice cream.
1 Use a food processor or an electric mixer with a paddle attachment to work the butter, icing sugar, flour, vanilla seeds and salt until the mixture just forms a ball of dough. It takes a while to come together, so don’t lose faith. 2 Once it has formed, turn the dough out onto the work surface. Divide into two pieces
Photograph by Patricia Niven
and shape each one into a log – we prefer to make it rectangular but it is absolutely delicious in any shape that you like. 3 Mix the sumac and sugar on the work surface. Roll the log in the sumac-sugar to coat it all over and then place it in the fridge to set for at least 1 hour (or freeze it until you want to bake). 4 Heat your oven to 190°C/170°C fan. Line two baking trays with baking paper. Use a sharp knife to cut each log into 12–14 slices and place them flat on the trays. 5 Bake for 10-12 minutes until light golden, then remove from the oven. Leave to cool on the tray before eating. f
“I love crafting bold wines that deliver the unexpected” DARK HORSE WINEMAKER
NEvER uNDEREStIMAtE A DARK HORSE
DARKHORSEWINE.CO.UK ©2018 Dark Horse Wines, Modesto, CA. All rights reserved.
THE URBAN GARDENER
Petersham Nurseries’ Amanda Brame tells us how to make the most of a small city garden
ZERO TO HERO In the second installment of his column, Tom Hunt explains how to use markets to reduce food waste
If supermarkets are your thing and you don’t want to buy a veg box or visit the local market, buy loose seasonal products (products marked with British country of origin – avoiding salad and tomatoes in winter that will have been in heated greenhouses or grown hydroponically), basing the bulk of your weekly shop on local and seasonal products. ‘Seasonal food’ refers to produce grown locally (or at least nationally) without extensive external inputs, such as heated greenhouses, special storage like gasregulated refrigeration, or hydroponics.
Five London food markets to visit 1 Brockley Market 2 Borough Market 3 Walthamstow Market 4 Parliament Hill Market 5 Queen’s Park Market You can find out more on the London Farmer’s Market website: lfm.org.uk f Tom Hunt is a sustainable chef and food writer. Each column of his Eight Steps to Zero Waste series will also appear on foodism.co.uk alongside instructional videos, so that you can reference each step as and when you need to.
Photograph by (Tom Hunt) David Harrison; (Amanda Brame) Lewis McCarthy; [market] Paolo Paradiso/Alamy
OCAL MARKETS AND health food shops are food places where culture and community are still strong and thriving. Shopping at your local market will not only help you save food waste and reduce singleuse plastic in your own home, but within the whole food system. I now buy the majority of my shopping from local markets, health food shops and bulk-buy stores and spend less than I used to, saving money by not buying unnecessary items and purchasing mostly whole vegetables and loose products. Waste happens at every level of the food chain from the farm to our forks. Food changes hands many times as it is harvested, packaged, processed and distributed from the farm to the store. Each time that food changes hands the same issues arise (such as storage, handling and fluctuating demand) causing food and packaging to be wasted. Shortening the food chain by shopping at your local market cuts out several of these steps, reducing unnecessary waste at every level. Local markets traditionally sell loose products so you can purchase what you need, using your own bags and containers. If you don’t have the time to find a local market then a seasonal veg box will also do the trick, however be sure to comment and consider other companies if they over-package their vegetables, individually or in plastic.
In summer, Petersham Nurseries uses edible flowers in abundance, lightly cooking borage and courgette flowers in a tempura batter; whipping up a nasturtium pesto; and baking an orange tart with delicate alpine pinks. Many edible flowers can easily be grown in one summer. Nasturtiums, courgettes, borage, sunflowers and calendula will provide masses of colour from just one sowing. Window boxes filled with semitrailing nasturtiums and flowering rocket give a different take on the traditional herb planter. Another delicious combination would be edible alpine pinks, flowering thymes, lavender and mints. Even try a pot of bergamot with other tea plants such as peppermint and lemon balm. Scented geraniums are another regular favourite. ‘Attar of Roses’ has rose-scented leaves and pale pink petals; pelargonium crispum variegatum has pale mauve flowers and lemon-scented leaves. All of these are edible and make a fabulous addition to desserts. Scented geraniums are not winter hardy, so will need to be brought inside and kept fairly dry during the winter months. April is the time to trim them back by a third and then repot into fresh compost to enjoy another summer outside. f Amanda Brame is head of horticulture at Petersham Nurseries Covent Garden; petershamnurseries.com. Read more at fdsm.co/columns
B OT T L ES
HAW K E R U NION
Drinking Grazing Dining Trending
THE RADAR We take you through the best new bar and restaurant openings from now until the end of the month Trending
B E AUT I FUL ALLO TME NT
This opening has taken locally sourced produce to a new extreme, with many ingredients being grown on-site. In a bid to bring the sprawling English countryside to inner-city London, the Beautiful Allotment experience will involve a self-serve barbecue and botanical cocktails served by a resident bartender on a travelling tractor. E2 8EA; beautifulallotment.com
Street Feast is back with an exciting new opening in Wood Green. Doing what they do best, they’ve converted a North London warehouse into a vibrant food market, which transitions smoothly from chilled lunch spot to buzzing evening hang-out. The new site, called Hawker Union, boasts six traders and five bars, their eclectic range including fiery Caribbean chicken by White Men Can’t Jerk and wood-fired Neapolitan pizza by Fundi. If you’re still able to move after, trampolining can be undertaken at your own risk. N22 6TZ; streetfeast.com
CASA DO F RANG O
NIG HT TAL E S
Night Tales Bohemia Palace will see two railway arches in Hackney transformed into the city’s hottest (and coolest) summer hangout. The sun-drenched site will include a 300-capacity nightclub, a cocktail bar specialising in mezcal and tequila and a waterfall(!). Book a swinging day bed for the ultimate summer spot, or grab ten mates and take over a private booth. Food-wise, Sons of Slice will be serving New York-style pizza, while Fat Baby will offer a taste of Tokyo with its izakaya grill. E8 1DU; nighttales.co.uk
T HE B E L R OSE The Belrose is something of a hybrid of two British favourites: the local pub and the Italian restaurant. The rustic conversion will be serving up classic Italian pizzas straight from a clay oven, while for lighter bites, there will also be a selection of charcuterie, cheeses and small plates. At weekends, they’ll entice punters with the promise of all-day brunch and a Sunday roast. NW3 2BD; thebelrose.co.uk
So it seems we’ve been doing piri piri chicken wrong all this time. Whoops. Casa Do Frango is here to rectify the situation and they’ve enlisted an Algarvian pitmaster. Fancy. SE1 1TU; casadofrango.co.uk
M AM AS O N S DIRT Y I CE C R E AM
Inspired by Filipino ice cream, Camden’s Mamasons opens in Chinatown, bringing its black coconut and ube flavours with it. NW1 8NY dirtyicecream.co.uk
Photograph by (Bottles) Massimo Rumi
The team behind Bottles & Battles has a new venue in Old Spitalfields, where quality independent wines are paired with irresistible meat and cheese plates. E1 6AA;
THE WINNERS... C
Give it up for Foodism 100 winners The Duke of Cambridge, a certified organic gastropub in Islington, and last year’s anti-food-waste pop-up wastED London
B R ATI
In association with
BEST P UB S P ONS ORE D BY
The Duke of Cambridge When you think of your stereotypical pub grub, the word organic probably doesn’t even come into play. But that’s far from the case here. Islington’s The Duke of Cambridge is Britain’s first and only certified organic pub, with a daily-changing menu that makes the absolute most of its partnership with organic veg box suppliers Riverford.
than 20 years. In 2014, Singh married Guy Watson, the man behind Riverford Organic Farmers. Together the couple have ensured this suburban North London pub’s status as a pro-organic powerhouse. Oh, and it’s not just about what they put on the plates, either: the pub also strives to reduce food waste wherever possible, using an anaerobic digester to generate energy. Even its furniture is upcyled and second-hand.
WHERE CAN I FIND THEM?
WHAT’S ON THE MENU?
The Duke of Cambridge is a short walk from Essex Road. Find it on the corner of St Peter’s Street and Danbury Street, N1 8JT.
There’s a selection of organic craft beers
WHO ARE THEY?
The Duke of Cambridge was founded by Geetie Singh and has been trading for more
and wines behind the bar, and the dailychanging food menu boasts fish sourced from Kernowsashimi – a collective of small, sustainable fishing boats working off the Cornish coast – and venison, pork and game from award-winning Rhug Estate Organic Farm in North Wales.
WHAT WAS ON THE MENU?
Waste. Turned around and made into delicious, thought-provoking dishes. Each day a different guest chef was challenged to make a new menu from leftovers and food that was otherwise destined for the bin. Standouts include reinvented cocktails from Mr Lyan’s partner-in-crime Iain Griffiths; spiralized vegetable cores paired with aquafaba salad cream; fish heads, gnarly bits of crispy skin and wonky chips on scrunched up bits of broadsheet; and Barber’s juice pulp bacon cheese ‘burgers’.
B R ATI
The In association with
Curated by Dan Barber, whose restaurant Blue Hill at Stone Barns – run in conjunction with the Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture, is a mainstay in the World’s 50 Best list. This provocative, star-studded popup restaurant on the Selfridges rooftop was the first London outpost under the wastED banner. During its run, Barber was joined in the kitchen by some of London’s best and brightest sustainable chefs including Tom Hunt, Tom Anglesea and Fergus Henderson.
WHAT WAS IT?
Zero food waste might be the buzzword of the moment, but last year’s show-stopping popup from farm-to-table chef and sustainable food evangelist Dan Barber showed London that this movement is anything but a fad.
B E ST POP-UP S P O N S O R ED BY
WHERE CAN I FIND THEM?
Photograph by [Duke of Cambridge] Tricia de Courcy Ling; [WastED] Gareth Davies
Unless you’ve got the funds to hop over the Atlantic to try Barber’s anti-food-waste cooking in situ, you’ll have to wait for the next London pop-up to roll around. Fingers crossed that happens sooner rather than later, because we’ve got a fierce craving for some jamón Ibérico-dripping butter. f wastedlondon.com
THE WASTED POP-UP WAS A SHOWSTOPPER
NOW IN SEASON
OUR SUMMER LAGER IS RIPE FOR THE PICKING
HOP CULTURE LONDON, ONE BEER AT A TIME
THE LONDON BEER MAP
London’s best breweries and where to find them
275-276 Poyser Street, E2 9RF
The brewery Part of the furniture in East London since the start of the city’s craft beer boom in 2011, Redchurch Brewery occupies two railway arches on a backstreet between Bethnal Green and Cambridge Heath stations. Most brewing is now done in Harlow, Essex, but the two-level taproom doubles as a smallbatch site brewing experimental sour beers.
The beer The brewery’s core range includes all your classic craft touchstones: a low-ABV pale, a 7.4% IPA, an award-winning lager and a dank NEIPA. But it’s the Urban Farmhouse range of sours that wows. Redchurch brews these with a wild yeast captured on-site, and fruit used in the brewing process comes seasonally from a heritage site in Kent. Past brews have included a rhubarb and Japanese knotweed sour, plus a deliciously tart saison blend. The brewery has also collaborated with Renegade London Wine on a sour brewed with leftover chardonnay lees, and its 18-month-aged
barrel blend was showcased at RAW Wine Fair, as well as being sold as a food-pairing option to London restaurant sommeliers.
What else? Downstairs in the taproom from August, the team behind Rita’s (formerly of Mare Street in Hackney) will be launching a restaurant serving American and Mexican grub. Expect tons of beer pairings, plus a list of cocktails made using Redchurch beers: think an old fashioned made with rum and export stout, or a spritz made with herb sour. f redchurch.beer
HO P C ULT UR E
STYLE IT OUT
Your all-knowing guide to the complex world of beer styles, classic and modern. This month: IPAs
THREE TO TRY
From West Coast-style session beers to hazy New England numbers, the IPA family tree is huge, but they all have the same roots. The India pale ale came into being when British sailors added extra hops to barrels of beer to preserve them on the way to India. The result was a bitter, high-proof pale ale. While that beer still exists in real ale, the American-style IPA now rules the world of craft beer. Although IPAs change from brewery to brewery, you can basically expect a bitter, hoppy beer with more alcohol than a pale ale brewed at the same brewery. Got it?
T HE K E R NE L IPA M OSAIC Bermondsey, London, UK Malty and creamy before the dank hops set in, this yellow brew is a London classic. 6.5%, 330ml; thekernelbrewery.com
G IPSY HIL L HE PCAT SE SSION I PA Gipsy Hill, London, UK
Session IPAs deliver punch minus the ABV. This is a weeknight-friendly hit of tropical hops. 4.6%, 330ml; gipsyhillbrew.com
HOP TO IT
Skate and beer brand Hop King is set to bring a new taproom, events space and skatepark to London this summer after raising more than ÂŁ150,000 via crowdfunding. Expect weekend skate lessons from Skates and Ladders, appearances from pro skaters and street-food vendors, plus gallons of beer to wash it all down. hopking.org
B R EW BY NUM B E RS DDH IPA NU M B E R O N E Bermondsey, London, UK Double the hops added in fermentation and you get an extra piney twist on a classic IPA. 6.8%, 440ml; brewbynumbers.com
WHERE TO DRINK IT VENUE GUI D ES FO R L O N D O N’S B EER L OVERS
Start your own craft brewery with these homebrew clubs and shops
1 London Beer Lab
Arch 41, Nursery Road, SW9 8BP
209-211 Mantle Road, SE4 2EW
Brixton-based London Beer Lab is a homebrew workshop, bottle shop and opensource brewery that arms Londoners with all the tools they need to make banging craft beer at home. As well as running courses and stocking hops, malts and more, they offer private tastings of the small-batch brews made on site for inspiration.
Ever since it arrived in Brockley in 2016, waterintobeer has been a thriving hub for South East London homebrewers, and a one-stop shop for all kinds of ingredients and supplies. If you don’t have your own system at home, you can try out the shop’s Grainfather, and make a 23-litre batch of your own beer under the guidance of owner Tim, too.
4 Brew Club
Arches 29-30, 24 Old Jamaica Rd, SE16 4AW
38-40 Upper Clapton Rd, E5 8BQ
Right at the very beginning (or end) of the Bermondsey Beer Mile, UBREW is a brewery, taproom, supply shop and learning centre for would-be craft beer geeks in the British capital. With day-long brewing courses each Saturday, it’s the perfect place to cut your teeth as a home brewer with top-of-the-line kit and recipes before heading back for hops and malts by the gram when you’re more of a veteran. Bring on the homemade hefeweizen.
In a world full of confusion, there’s one universal truth: if you want to make good beer, you’re going to have to make some seriously heady odours. Luckily, Brew Club in Clapton lets you unleash your malty stenches at one of its brew stations for the handsome fee of £60 a brew, or £120 for a beginner’s class. All you need to do is book, brew, wait a fortnight while it ferments, bottle it, wait some more and then enjoy. Simple.
EVERY LAST DROP
Photograph by [IPA] istock/David Gomez
Fresh from brewing in collaboration with Cornwall-based craft beer lovers Verdant in April, Tottenham’s Pressure Drop brewery has opened a joint bottle shop and taproom in its old premises in Hackney Central. The so-called Experiment is open 5-10pm Thursday to Sunday, serving beers from both breweries, plus more limited-run collaborations that are expected to roll in soon. Keep your ears to the ground for more, folks. pressuredropbrewing.co.uk
Stop going on about the Tories for a minute, because the only Northern Powerhouse we’re interested in is Newcastle-based brewery Wylam’s latest set of collaborative brews. Named after the ill-fated economic initiative, the case of eight includes a forest fruit sour brewed with Magic Rock, a strong brown ale brewed with Cloudwater and a collaborative IPA made with Northern Monk. Yep, it ain’t grim up north after all. Case of eight £39.99. honestbrew.co.uk
Every Villages beer label is a collaboration between the brewers and their artist friend Max Parsons. When the team set out to make a new beer, they sit down with Max and describe the aroma, colour, and flavour, as well as the kind of feelings you get while drinking it. He then creates an abstract artwork with that description, before they give it a name. Looking at it, this one’s gonna be hazy, tropical and, er, bristly.
HOP C U LTURE
Your guide to the designers and illustrators behind beer labels. This month: Villages
With the number of cutesy cafés and hipster plant shops around Deptford Market Yard these days, you’d be forgiven for thinking Deptford-based Villages brewery was named for the vibrant village vibes. Wrong. It’s actually named after its sibling founders Louis and Archie Village. Since opening in late 2016, they’ve been brewing a stellar range of sessionable core beers, plus a few experimental seasonals. They’re also in the process of expanding at the moment, so watch this space. villagesbrewery.com
Photograph by Ian Dingle
JOIN THE CLUB WWW.FOODISMBEERCLUB.CO.UK #FOODISMBEERCLUB FOR MORE DETAILS PLEASE CONTACT ALEX@FOODISM.CO.UK
STRAWBERRY HELLS FOREVER LAGER
We have a confession. Strawberry Hells isn’t really forever. Because we brewSUMMER this beer withLAGER British strawberries, we canTHE only PICKING make it in the summer. OUR IS RIPE FOR So while it’s tart, crisp and well rounded, it’s not around for long. We could have called it ‘Strawberry Hells sometimes’ but it didn’t have the same ring to it. FIND OUT WHERE TO DRINK IT: CAMDENTOWNBREWERY.COM/SHF
— PART 2 —
FEAST “LUMINARY BAKERY IS ADDRESSING A NUMBER OF ISSUES THAT AFFECT WOMEN IN THE FOOD AND DRINK INDUSTRY” JORDAN KELLY-LINDEN ON THE RISE OF ALL-FEMALE COLLECTIVES IN HOSPITALITY, 054
044 LONDON’S SUMMER OF LOVE | 054 ALL-FEMALE FOOD COLLECTIVES 060 FIVE DISHES: ADAM HANDLING | 070 LAVAZZA COFFEE | 076 MIXOLOGY: LITTLE BAT
THE LATE SHOW Hoping this summer will never end? Us too, but it isn’t over just yet – there’s still plenty of time to make the most of pop-ups, parks and places to bask (or barbecue) in the late-summer sun…
HERE’S NO DOUBT that, so far, this summer has kicked all recent summers’ butts as far as the weather is concerned. It’s been glorious, with Londoners embracing the heat to sip G&Ts on rooftop terraces, perfect their barbecue technique in London Fields and picnic in any green space they come across. Given London’s tendency to be, at times, grey and miserable, it’s hardly surprising we’re determined to make the most of it. As such, there’s shedloads of cool stuff going on, from hidden pop-ups to outdoor cinemas. But because these things aren’t always easy to find, we’ve put together this guide to what’s hot this summer. We’ve got all the gins you need in your G&T arsenal; gear to get you eating outside; sauces to take your food to the next level; and soft drinks to help you keep your cool in the heat. On top of all that, we’ve found London’s cutest park cafés and the best summer pop-ups for drinking, dining and dancing. We’ve also enlisted the help of our friends in the food and drink industry. They’ve shared their tips on how to nail barbecues, from side dishes to the main event; ideas for making the most of seasonal British produce; and the wines you should be drinking this summer, whether the sun’s out or not. Enjoy.
GIN UP, LAD
Whether you’re after a classic dry gin or a seasonal summer style, we’ve got you covered. Cheers! Malfy Gin Rosa
Italians know a thing or two about a good spritz, so it makes sense that gin brand Malfy, based just outside Turin, has created the perfect gin for a summery G&T. Gin Rosa gets its gorgeous rose tint from Sicilian pink grapefruit and Italian rhubarb. £34, 70cl; malfygin.com
With notes of earthy licorice, floral orris root, clean jupiter and fresh orange citrus, there’s no doubt Collagin is delicious. Throw added collagen into the mix – proven to help fight the signs of ageing – and you’ve got yourself a winner. £34.99, 50cl; collagin.co.uk
Slingsby Rhubarb Gin
Yorkshire rhubarb practically grows on Harrogate-based distiller Slingsby’s doorstep, so a rhubarb gin was inevitable. With sweetness from rhubarb and raspberry, followed by the tang of grapefruit, this could easily become our new favourite summer serve. £39.99, 70cl; wslingsby.co.uk
No3 Gin Photograph by [illustration] Ibom/Shutterstock; [woman Photograph drinking] by ### Mar-
jan Apostolovic/Shutterstock; [gin] Alessandro Biascioli/Shutterstock
No3 is distilled to a recipe belonging to wine merchants Berry Bros & Rudd, using a traditional approach. The name comes from the blend of three kinds of botanicals – juniper, citrus (orange peel and grapefruit peel) and spice (angelica root, coriander seed and cardamom). £8.50, 10cl; no3gin.com
Oxley Gin is made with a cold vacuum distillation technique, a super-premium method of making gin that took a team of scientists and distillers eight years to get right – but the resulting bright, smooth flavour is definitely worth it. £38.25, 100cl; oxleygin.com
Tom Griffiths heads up Flank in Spitalfields, where he advocates wholeanimal cooking. He shares his favourite foods (not all of them meat) to throw on the barbecue… Bone marrow smoked over vine
Literally just smoke it until soft – I like to add a bit of ground Sichuan pepper – and swipe liberally onto bread.
Hispi cabbage brushed with rendered beef fat
The best side dish ever! Chop into quarters, brush with fat (either leftover from winter roasts or from your butcher), then cook until caramelised.
This is something we’ve had in development for ages. We cover celeriac in foil and cook at about 160°C in a Big Green Egg until slightly soft. Then we peel it, slice thinly, build it up on a stick and glaze in a reduction of smoked onion, roasted celery and barley malt. We then keep glazing and turning the kebabs over the heat. The texture is soft and the coating is sweet and sticky.
If you can hang a duck over your fire or roast in a Big Green Egg or a drumbased barbecue, you’re onto a winner. I salt the skin for a day and then cook at 250°C for five mins; then close off the oxygen vent to bring it down to 160°C and cook for a further 15 mins; take off the legs and leave them in the BBQ to relax and braise. Leave the meat on the crown. Once cooked, slice the breasts off the crown – they’ll be super blush – and shred the legs. Serve this with some wonderful fresh cherries and maybe some almonds for texture.
I had these years ago and it’s something I will always remember: whole strawberries grilled then brushed in rum, served with a little clotted cream, cold custard or even ice cream. A total belter for the summer heat. Old Spitalfields Market, Brushfield Street, E1 6AA; flanklondon.com
PARK LIFE Soak up the sun in the park, then scoff tasty food at these cute cafés Dulwich Clock Café
College Road, SE21 7BQ With gorgeous blue hexagonal tiling, wooden beams and temptingly arranged cakes, Dulwich Clock Café is as cute as cafés come. The team makes sourdough pizzas by hand and sources everything it can locally for a menu of Italianinspired dishes ranging from pasta to salads. It’s got plenty of outdoor seating, and makes for an ideal stop-in before, during and after hanging out in Dulwich Park. 020 8299 0643; colicci.co.uk
The Brew House, Hampstead Heath
Kenwood House, Hampstead Lane, NW3 7JR Maybe you’ve been strolling the vast grassy expanse of the Heath; maybe you’ve been splashing around in Highgate Ponds; either way, you should head to The Brew House at Kenwood House for a refuelling sesh, stat. The food’s always good, but we’d hold out for the barbecue menu that’s served every weekend from 12-4pm on the east terrace over summer. Weather not playing ball? You’ll be able to get your chops around a full roast instead. 020 8348 4073; searcyskenwoodhouse.co.uk
190 Fentiman Road, Vauxhall, SW8 1QY Vauxhall Park has sweet lavender gardens, a sweet model village, and a sweet Italian café in its former loos that has a serious food menu. Parco – which looks to Italy for inspiration
– dishes up food that more than pulls its weight in the flavour stakes, with housemade lasagne, veal Milanese, calzones and ciabattas. Yum. 020 7091 0240; facebook.com/parco-cafe
Coal House Café
Woodberry Wetlands, Lordship Road, Stoke Newington, N16 5HQ You’ve got parks, then you’ve got Woodberry Wetlands: 11 acres of reed-fringed ponds and dykes, close to Manor House and Stoke Newington. Stroll through the nature reserve (entry is free) and refuel at Coal House Café, which serves seasonal food using local producers like Baldwins Butchers and Breid Bakers. 020 3897 6154; woodberrywetlands.org.uk
3 Addington Square, Camberwell, SE5 7JZ OK, this one isn’t technically in a park, but it is right by the park – and it’s so good we’re more than happy to make an exception. The space was (and still is) an upholsterer’s workshop that was revamped to include a brilliant café serving Square Mile coffee, pastries, cakes, bread and a daily changing season menu. It also runs Fowlds Feasts, a supper club held in the workshop. 020 3417 4500; @FowldsCafe
GRILL WHOLE STRAWBERRIES, THEN BRUSH WITH RUM
Tom Griffiths, founder of Flank
Take your dish from so-so to superb with our pick of the best sauces for summer favourites Tracklements Special Edition smoky chilli sauce
Where’s there’s smoke, there isn’t always fire. This chipotle, lime and coriander-laden sauce is an easy way to bring smoky flavour to your dish without having to get the coals out. £3.40; tracklements.co.uk
Paxton & Whitfield sweet cucumber pickle
When you’re about to OD on gobloads of juicy meat swaddled in carbs, chuck this cucumber pickle into your bun, because its tangy sweetness is the perfect foil to rich, fatty meat. Or, if you’re after something more refined, it also goes down a treat with smoked salmon. £5.45; paxtonandwhitfield.co.uk
Sauce Shop sriracha mayo
Sauce Shop ferments its sauces in barrels and makes its mayos by hand with free-range eggs to get a light, whipped texture. Throw these things together and you’ve got a sauce that would go brilliantly with anything from chips to chicken. £3; sauceshop.co
Single Variety Co jalapeno jam
South-West London-based Single Variety Co seeks out the perfect variety of chilli (and other things) to create its relishes. Slap this jam, made with British-grown jalapeños, on a burger, on a cheeseboard or in a recipe for a punch of flavour. £5; singlevariety.co.uk
Tubby Tom’s mango and black sesame drizzle
With mango for refreshing, juicy sweetness and black sesame for oodles of umami, this drizzle shows you don’t need spice. It works perfectly with sticky barbecued chicken, drizzled onto hummus, or in a next-level falafel wrap. £6; tubbytoms.com
FLAVOUR YOU CANâ€™T GET IN THE KITCHEN
The New Pulse Grill
Find yours at Weber.com
Kirsty Hale, head of recipes for Riverford’s recipe boxes, shares her favourite British summer vegetables Summer greens, June-July
These tender greens don’t need much; shred, steam or wilt for a few minutes with a splash of water and enjoy their naturally sweet flavour. You can also cook them and toss with new potatoes, lemon and butter; add handfuls to a lentil and coconut dahl; or stuff them to make Middle Eastern-style rice rolls.
Bunched beetroot, June-August
The first pick of our summer beetroot bunches are best used in salads; grated raw in slaws; or in a chilled borscht-style soup. If the tops are in good nick when you get them, chop and stir-fry – I do a mean beet top and beef teriyaki, but portobellos would work just as well for vegans.
Sugar snap peas, July-August
Homegrown sugar snap peas are plump, crisp and wonderfully sweet, but they don’t like being kept for long, so make sure you eat them up quickly. Toss them into salads, either whole or sliced lengthways to reveal the tiny peas. If you take them near a stove, be sure to do so very briefly – they don’t need much.
Samphire, mid June-end of July
GREAT OUTDOORS From picnics to barbecues, here’s all the gear you need for feasting outside Casus grill
Say goodbye to waste with this 100% natural, biodegradable disposable BBQ made from FSC-certified cardboard and bamboo. £7.99; thefowndry.com
We harvest our marsh samphire from the low-lying fields of the stunning Erme estuary in Devon. Its naturally salty flavour is traditionally associated with fish, and it’s a great match, but actually it pairs just as well with eggs in an omelette or a frittata, and for vegans, one of our recipe box meals has miso mushrooms and sticky rice topped with samphire.
Corkscrew, bottle opener, spatula and brush: this multitool is all you need for a good barbie in one product. £36; johnlewis.com
Cobb BBQ fuel stones
Love them or hate them, sweet-sour gooseberries are an iconic British summer fruit. Their season is short, but they freeze really well, so are worth gathering in abundance for crumbles, tarts and fools. Don’t limit them to sweet though, think savoury too – a gooseberry sauce is the perfect foil to oily fish like mackerel. riverford.co.uk Photograph (Cobb) by Gert Laursen
GOOSEBERRIES ARE AN ICONIC BRITISH SUMMER FRUIT
Gentleman’s Hardware BBQ multitool
A fast-heating, smoke-free alternative to regular charcoal that makes use of cornstarch and coconut shells that would otherwise just go to waste. £12.99; lakeland.co.uk
Weber premium grilling stone
Turn your Weber BBQ into a pizza oven with this even-heating, moisture-absorbing ceramic stone. £39.99; weber.com
Hydro Flask wine bottle
Keep your sauvignon (or water) at its optimum temperature all day long with this wine bottle-sized flask. £38.95; hydroflask.com
Kirsty Hale, head of recipes, Riverford
TOP OF THE POP-UPS From flower-filled terraces to outdoor cinemas, these pop-ups will help you make the most of summer The Barbados Terrace with Mount Gay rum
Roundhouse, Chalk Farm Road, NW1 8EH This summer, Mount Gay is taking over the rooftop at Camden’s Roundhouse to create the Barbados Terrace. Chill with a game of dominoes, play road tennis, munch Caribbean finger food and slurp Mount Gay. Sorted. Until 2 September; mountgayrum.com
John Lewis, 300 Oxford St, W1C 1DX Playing host to a series of live gigs and DJ sets from now until the end of summer, John Lewis’s rooftop Summer of Sound pop-up is the perfect place to while-away an afternoon with FeverTree and Sipsmith G&Ts, acoustic sets, and gravy-drenched burgers from Nanny Bill’s. Throughout summer; johnlewis.com
Various locations Make the most of the balmy evenings at Luna Cinema’s outdoor screenings. Grab a blanket, one of Pique’s hassle-free picnics, and maybe a beer from the Estrella Damm bars and cosy up. Spice World: The Movie will be showing in Regent’s Park in August, but there are plenty of other films and locations, too. Until October; thelunacinema.com
Until August; 338 Boord Street, SE10 0PF At Pub Tropicana, drinks aren’t free, but there is fun and (possibly) sunshine. Taking place each Friday at Studio 338’s vast outdoor space in Greenwich, the weekly pop-up is the place to go for games of neon ping pong and tasty street food before dancing to live music and djs.Throughout summer; pubtropicana.com
Dante at Ham Yard Hotel
1 Ham Yard, W1D 7DT When your heart says New York City, but your wallet says ‘get your head out of the clouds’, head to the Ham Yard Hotel. Its leafy roof terrace is currently hosting NYC aperitivo bar Dante, which sits at number 16 on the World’s 50 Best Bars list. Chamomile negroni? Don’t mind if we do. Until 5 August; firmdalehotels.com
FAST SUMMER SIDES
Food writer Ed Smith gives us his favourite lowmaintenance side dishes that are quick, easy and great to rustle up without any prior warning Barbecue sides should be bold so they can stand up to all the other flavours going on. From a practical perspective, they also need to either be able to sit without spoiling while meats cook, or fit in and around the other things on the grill. One guaranteed crowd-pleaser is to cook sweet potatoes in the barbecue’s embers, or at the back of the grill, until they’re scorched and sinking. At the last minute, split them open and paste with butter that you’ve mixed with loads of paprika, black pepper and some dried oregano. Char some corn on the cob, too, again melting loads of butter over the top just before serving (this time a combination of butter, honey, fresh thyme leaves, sea salt, black pepper and lime zest), plus fresh lime juice. Unless you’ve got a large grill, par-boil the corn for a couple of minutes first, so they don’t take too long to cook. Beyond that, the sides should be simple assemblies. We’ll assume you’re already doing a tomato salad, and also something lettucey — use baby gems, which last well without wilting, tossed with fresh mint leaves and shredded spring onion, with a basic fresh lemon and extra virgin olive oil dressing nearby for people to add themselves. Add a bulgur wheat salad to the mix, with loads of chopped parsley, more mint and a few spoonfuls of red wine vinegar. A mound of kohlrabi remoulade, made by peeling then shredding the kohlrabi, before mixing through Greek yoghurt, a handful of really finely chopped parsley and wholegrain mustard to taste, is good too. Dishes adapted from Ed Smith’s book ‘On the Side: a sourcebook of inspiring side dishes’ (Bloomsbury). Follow @rocketandsquash on Instagram and Twitter. rocketandsquash.com
Wine Car Boot’s Ruth Spivey on the best easy-drinking wines for hot weather Domaine Deliance, Crémant de Bourgogne, Burgundy NV
This is for those times when you want to drink champagne but can’t afford to. Made from the same grapes, in the same way, just next door, it’s got freshness and elegance with a depth of flavour and huge drinkability. £17.50; butlers-winecellar.co.uk
Keep your cool in hot weather with these non-alcoholic drinks Seedlip
Seedlip’s non-alcoholic spirits taste good enough that they’ll make you feel like you’re being, well, bad. The pioneering company creates its magic in copper stills using traditional techniques outlined in brewing bible The Art of Distillation, first published in 1651. New to Seedlip’s stable is its third spirit, Grove 42, made with bitter orange, mandarin, blood orange, lemongrass, sansho peppercorn, ginger and lemon. Serve simply with soda, over ice, or even in a fancy cocktail. £26 for 70cl; seedlipdrinks.com
Craven Clairette Blanche, South Africa, 2015
This 11.5% works well with most whitewine-hungry dishes and comes into its own with cheese. Made from the last patch of clairette vines in Stellenbosch, a portion of the juice is fermented with skin contact for texture and depth. £17.25; bbr.com
Square Root Soda Lemon Cream Sour
There are loads of reasons to love Square Root: the London-based company makes its soda using unwanted fruit, minimising food waste; the drinks are made with less sugar and nothing artificial; and they’re absolutely delicious. We’re loving its partnership with Manchester-based Chorlton Brewing Co for the Lemon Cream Sour shandy, which has an ABV of less than 0.5%. £2; squarerootsoda.co.uk
Davenport Vineyards, Horsmonden, East Sussex, 2016
Another 11.5%-er, this is one of my favourite English whites at the moment. It’s made from bacchus, ortega and siegerrebe and it’s biodynamic, too. Juicy aromatic, and perfect for garden glugging. £17.65; lescaves.co.uk
Tenuta di Carleone Rosato, Tuscany, 2017
Instead of reaching for predictable Provençal rosé, try this pure sangiovese from Tuscany by star winemaker Sean O’Callaghan who, as his name suggests, is not in the least bit Italian. He does however produce delicious, naturally made Italian wine in Chianti. £22; thewinemakersclub.co.uk
Ramona, Ruby Grapefruit Wine Spritz, Italy
Vegan-friendly, low sugar, low carb, alcoholfree beer might sound wrong, but the legendary Danish brewery proves it can be done so right with this super-smooth IPA. £2.99; mikkeller.dk
CRAVEN’S CLAIRETTE COMES INTO ITS OWN WITH CHEESE
Ruth Spivey on easy summer drinking
London Essence Co Rhubarb and Cardamom soda
The London Essence Co’s sodas and tonics were intended to be refined mixers, but we think they work pretty darn well as a refreshing soft bev on their own. We particularly like the lightly spiced rhubarb and cardamom soda, which has a pleasingly dry finish. £1.69 for 275ml; waitrose.com
Made with Sicilian orange juice and blended with cold-pressed blood orange juice, artisan soda company Dalston’s Orangeade is tangy, refreshing and everything you’re after for a picnic. Oh, and the company focuses on the careful sourcing of natural ingredients, using each and every part of the fruit to reduce waste. dalstons.com
Photograph by [beer] FS Stock/Shutterstock
Leading the wine-in-a-can revolution is Ramona, a dangerously easy to drink blend of white wine made from the Italian grape zibbibo and a spritzy, acidic kick from sparkling grapefruit juice. It comes in at a breakfast-friendly 7.5% ABV and works equally well as a refreshing aperitif or hair-of-the-dog. From £5 a can; vinoteca.co.uk. Ruth Spivey is an award-winning wine expert, writer and founder of independent wine market Wine Car Boot. The next market is18th August; see winecarboot.com for details
Mikkeller Weird Weather can
STRENGTH IN NUMBERS Photograph by ###
Jordan Kelly-Linden meets the all-female collectives using food and drink to empower women, and change the hospitality industry for good ILLUSTRATIONS BY MARIA CORTE
HERE’S A RHYTHM that’s hard to explain,” says Asma Khan over a bhar of sweet, aromatic masala chai. “It’s like everyone knows the words to the song and they all chip in at the same time. That’s what it is to be in an all-female kitchen.” Khan would know. When you search Google for ‘all-female kitchens in London’, Darjeeling Express, Khan’s brightly lit Indian restaurant on the third floor of Soho’s Kingly Court, is the first hit. None of its chefs, including Khan, have prior culinary training, and all of them are women.
In the year since it opened, Darjeeling Express has gained a bit of a cult following, and not just for the soul-soothing plates of delicious chana chaat and prawn malaikari I watch being plated up behind the pass, either. What’s garnered the most attention is Khan’s intelligent and compassionate approach to women in the industry. Well, that and events in November on social media, when the Michelin Guide came under fire for praising the all-female team for “coping effortlessly with the demands” of a busy service. Khan didn’t take this as an insult (citing that Michelin’s comments were probably taken
out of context), but judging by the reaction on Twitter and the stream of articles that followed, most of London’s food and drink scene did so on her behalf. With tedious predictability, last year’s uproar was just one among many ongoing, complex conversations about the role and categorisation of gender in the restaurant community, both in London and beyond. Institutions like the Michelin Guide have a historically poor record of recognising great female chefs for just being, well, chefs. And let’s not forget the World’s 50 Best’s habit of first othering women by awarding them the
controversial title of World’s Best Female Chef, then cutting these same ‘winners’ off from their peers by failing to include their restaurants in the complete list. That’s been the case for each of the last four chefs to win the award: Core’s Clare Smyth (2018), Ana Ros of Hiša Franko (2017), Atelier Crenn’s Dominique Crenn (in 2016) and Hélène Darroze of Hélène Darroze at The Connaught and Restaurant Hélène Darroze (2015). High-profile examples like these highlight the struggles women face when it comes to exposure, opportunity and rightful recognition in this male-dominated industry, and that’s
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not even including the inevitable financial gains that accompany all that. It’s symptomatic of a wider culture of misogyny; one where, behind the scenes, women are faced with constant, everyday sexism, too. The mere existence of Polka Pants, producers of stylish, form-friendly chef’s pants for women, indicates there are things both big and small that affect women working in a sector that, in 2017, was recognised as Britain’s fourth biggest employer. But the challenges go far beyond the uncomfortable (no pun intended) symbolism of having to put up with a uniform designed for an entirely different body shape. As it turns out, some of the most effective, innovative and inspiring solutions to these problems are coming from women working with women to bring about change. From all-female hospitality networks to social enterprises supporting refugees, these collectives – including Darjeeling Express and others like them – are using food and drink to empower other women, and challenging the status quo while they’re doing it. One of these is Luminary Bakery, an all-female social enterprise and café in Stoke Newington, they’re simultaneously addressing a number of issues that affect women in the food and drink industry – not least those who need to prioritise family. “A lot of women that we work with have kids and trying to get a job when you can’t work certain hours is really difficult,” says head baker Rachel Stonehouse. “Lots of employers are really inflexible.” Needless to say, this isn’t the case at Luminary. “Some of our team do 9.30am to 4.30pm because they have to drop their kids off at nursery,” explains Stonehouse. They’re not a bread bread bakery, which means their hours are a bit more flexible. It’s a difficult pattern to work around but the small team – which only a couple of weeks ago was pulling together an order of more than 6,000 units in the café’s tiny open kitchen for retail giant Amazon – somehow make it work. When I visit, the ‘heat’ isn’t on in the kitchen. Outside is a whole other story; it’s barely 10am and already the sun is fierce. As we chat, it falls through the big glass windows, casting the shadow of the text on a window sticker across our table: “We can’t be brave in the big world without at least one small safe space to work through our fears and falls.” It’s poignant, given Luminary’s mission. Born out of Kahaila, a charity and coffee shop with a conscience, the bakery was founded by Alice Williams in 2014. It works to tackle the cycles of poverty by giving women from disadvantaged backgrounds the transferable skills to succeed. These women may have
WOMEN IN POSITIONS OF POWER HAVE A DUTY TO LIFT OTHERS UP a record, it might be that they don’t have a permanent address, or they may have experienced sexual exploitation. A lot of them have experienced domestic violence, broken relationships or some form of social isolation along the way, but Luminary’s six-month training programme gives them a much needed all-female supportive place – that ‘one small safe space’ – where, as Stonehouse explains, “They can come and be themselves and don’t have to be fearful of other stuff.”
Raising women up The freedom to ‘just be yourself’ seems to be a common theme coursing through not just Luminary, but other all-female collectives, too. “There’s something special that happens when you have just women around the table,” says Benjamina Ebuehi, one of Luminary Bakery’s official ambassadors, and co-founder of the pop-up supper club The Sister Table, which she runs with her twin sister Bonita. The Sister Table isn’t a social enterprise; rather, it’s a sociable space created for women, by women. What drives it is the Ebuehis’ desire to create “a real sense of community”, where women can meet and bond with other likeminded women over great food and drink. “There’s just that comfort, that shared experience, that ability to completely be yourself,” explains Ebuehi, referring to how empowering it is to exist in these kinds of spaces. For her, part of the joy in working with Luminary and running a supper club for women is the opportunity to use her “skills to serve and benefit others.” This determination to raise others up is one which she shares with Khan: “If you are in a position of power as a woman, you absolutely have a duty of care to lift at least →
IT’S ABOUT CREATING A LEVEL PLAYING FIELD, NOT CUTTING MEN OUT other establishments. In the hospitality industry, shift work is notoriously ill-suited to those trying to juggle a career while simultaneously raising children. Those with kids have to put one stint in at work and then another at home and you can’t help but wonder how many more women we’d see racing to the top if better childcare support was built into these workplaces.
A celebration of skills
→ another few women up,” says Khan, back at Darjeeling Express. We speak in the hours snatched between afternoon and evening service. I’ve nipped into the restaurant to steal a moment or two of her time – not that Khan has a lot of it going spare: in May, she opened Calcutta Canteen, a second site focusing on West Bengali street-food in Fulham Market Halls; this summer she’s putting the finishing touches to a cookbook she’s been working on for two years; and in between all that, she’s about to start work on a huge project we’re not yet allowed to talk about. When I drop by, the restaurant is technically closed, but in the middle of the floor a group of teenage girls are gathered around a table, finishing off their lunch.
No one tries to rush them along. Behind them Khan’s team are stretched out on the benches, shoes off, phones in hand, calling their families in Pakistan and beyond. They’re waiting for the evening shift to roll around. This is the “golden hour”, Asma tells me. The time when her staff can clock off for a nap, as these women are doing now, or when her team can return home and check in with their children. Two of her main chefs are pregnant. They’ll come for the late shift in half an hour or so to take over evening service. By then, most of the heavy lifting and prep has already been taken care of. It’s a system that works and one Khan has deliberately put in place, but it’s not one you’d necessarily come across in
As I speak to more and more women like Khan, Stonehouse and Ebuehi, I learn that it’s not about cutting men out of the picture, but rather creating a level playing field by giving women the tools (or the time and flexibility) to flourish in the traditionally male-dominated setting of a professional kitchen. Niki Kopcke has built her roaming restaurant and social enterprise Mazi Mas off the back of this idea. “Women are responsible for raising and feeding all of us, but that work is never quantified because it occurs in the home,” says Kopcke. “I was interested in assigning an actual financial value to that work that women do, and celebrating them for it.” And that’s exactly what she has done. For five and a half years Mazi Mas has employed and trained refugee women, acting as an incubator programme for those wanting to open their own food businesses. Recently, it has taken on a stall at Old Spitalfields Market focusing on Persian cuisine. It’s not a charity, but a business with a social conscience that invests all its profits back into the training programmes and people that keep it going. These are the people Kopcke wants to champion the most: “We have women who have spent their lives developing these incredible skills,” she tells me. “These skills
that have enabled food cultures to expand and sustain through generations, but you don’t see these women stepping out on their own and opening places.What you see more often is male chefs going and learning from the mama figure, the guru, then making money off of it. That really pisses me off.” It’s an unfortunate reality for female chefs that their skills aren’t always valued as highly as their male counterparts. Ravneet Gill – a chef at Highbury Corner’s Turkish-influenced restaurant Black Axe Mangal and founder of chefs’ collective Counter Talk – describes how there have been times in the past when she’s walked into a kitchen only to be met with noticeably less respect than a man. Despite being a qualified pastry chef, whose CV is decorated with the names of some of London’s most influential restaurants and bakeries, “people often think that I’m there for the PR or something other than cooking,” she tells me. I first meet Gill behind the pass at June’s Taste of London festival. She’s showing me how to prep the mango and passionfruit cheesecake she’s created for all-female hospitality collective Ladies of Restaurants. At Taste, LOR was one of the few stalls serving food that didn’t represent a restaurant. Despite this, its lamb in betel leaf dish, designed by Anaïs van Manen, co-founder of the soonto-launch Bastarda at Hackney Wick’s Giant Steps, managed to top the offerings of even Michelin-starred restaurants, going on to win the festival’s coveted ‘Best in Taste’ award. Heading up the gang of volunteers is Natalia Ribbe, co-founder of LOR, who, alongside Libby Andrews, created the network to use food, drink and social spaces to connect with other women and raise them up towards success. “Ladies of Restaurants was set up out of a want and need to support the incredible community of women working in hospitality,” Ribbe later tells me. “When you’re growing up or just working in kitchens, on the floor, or as a sommelier – no matter where – all you see are men. You don’t see what you can be, because there is nobody to look up to or model yourself after.” For Ribbe and Andrews it’s about encouraging the younger generation and creating role models for those already working in the industry. “We want to bring women to the forefront and say, ‘Hey, look what I’m doing,’ for other women to see.” It’s important work, not least when the London food scene, as Gill explains, has been dominated by the same kind of chef for so long. “All the images I was seeing on social media were all male, and a certain type of male: middle-class and white. That was the
standard that was being promoted and pushed and I found it frustrating.” On the other hand, she saw incredible female chefs doing great things but failing to get the same coverage. When they do, Gill notes, it’s instead “dominated by female food bloggers, food stylists and food writers, but you don’t get female chefs.” Gill is currently trying to turn this around. Through Counter Talk, she has joined Mayor of London Sadiq Khan’s #BehindEveryCity campaign, which is working to raise awareness about the gender pay-gap. Her part aims to clear out the stereotype of the mumsy, nurturing home cook by championing lesser-known female chefs in London. It’s hoped that by increasing their presence, these women will just become a normal everyday reality and in doing so, Gill’s project will bring a boost to the industry; one which already generates around £38bn for the economy. Though Gill, Ladies of Restaurants and many others like them are working tirelessly to affect change throughout the industry, the wider picture is of an industry where problematic attitudes persist. Earlier this year I attended an event at South Kensington restaurant Bibendum called ‘An Evening of Share Value’, where a panel discussion centred around the theme ‘the difference she makes’. The panelists – male and female – spoke about what women bring to the restaurant industry (“a sense of maturity” or authority: “you don’t want to get told off by a woman”) and what they need to do to succeed (“it’s all about the results… forget that you’re a woman and just do what you need to do”). Claude Bosi, the chef whose name is currently above the door
WE DON’T SEE WHAT WE CAN BE BECAUSE THERE’S NO ONE TO LOOK UP TO
at Bibendum, spoke of his dream to have a female head chef one day. But when the questions came in from the floor, the tone took a noticeable shift. The panel was invited to give their opinion on the rise of all-female kitchens such as Darjeeling Express. Here, Bosi jumped in: with a quick “I don’t know,” he went on to suggest that, “maybe the women should come into the men’s kitchen and take the risk”. I wasn’t sure what that meant – and neither is Asma Khan of Darjeeling Express when I mention it to her. “What is a men’s kitchen?” she asks. “I would love to know.” But rather than trying to read into a quickfire, misplaced response, perhaps it’s time instead to address the “risk” these women take on in forging their own spaces in an industry dominated from the top down by certain restaurateurs, chefs and investors – ones who use their positions of power to deliberately, or inadvertently, create a hostile environment in which to work – and by a handful of judges, food writers and editors who use coded, critical language to devalue their skills or write them out of the narrative all together. These collectives – especially those which double as social enterprises – operate on a complex business model which, for more reasons than one, can be difficult to run. As Kopcke of Mazi Mas points out, female-focused enterprises are “particularly expensive businesses to run… It requires a lot of auxiliary support that you don’t see.” At the same time, as Fi O’Brien – co-founder of South West England-based Girls Who Grind Coffee, an all-female roastery – tells me, there are still a lot of “backwards-thinking hurdles” women have to overcome when setting up businesses. These women and others are constantly having to navigate complex social systems. Bosi’s commentary suggests they’re somehow shying away from all that by creating female-forward organisations. In reality these all-female collectives aren’t removing themselves from the conversation surrounding what makes a ‘great’ chef, baker or restaurateur by creating their own spaces; rather, they’re building a platform, which allows for their skills to be recognised and their voices to be heard in a world that seems determined to silence or ignore them. Although attitudes like these are slowly changing, they undoubtedly still exist within the industry. Until we start getting better at recognising and calling them out, it’s only right that we continue, as O’Brien puts it, “to celebrate and share the stories of those that are rarely told.” f
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A CAREER IN DISHES: ADAM HANDLING 61
OWNING A BUSINESS WAS THE BEST DECISION I EVER MADE Adam Handling is a chef unwilling to be defined by a particular style, and his signature dishes reflect his hunger for creativity, writes Mike Gibson Photography by David Harrison
DAM HANDLING IS a man on a mission. What that mission is, however, is up for debate. Does he want to redefine the rules of fine dining in London? Does he want to teach the restaurant scene truly sustainable business practices? Does he want to build a business empire that encompasses restaurants, cafés, cocktail bars and hotels? A couple of hours in his company is enough to ascertain that the answer is probably ‘all this and more’. A proud Scotsman, Handling came into restaurants by way of an apprenticeship in the Gleneagles kitchen when he was 15, which he describes as “a very, very hard kitchen, but incredible.” Stints in kitchens in London, Newcastle and Fife followed, before Handling opened his first restaurant with his name above the door – Adam Handling at Caxton, in St Ermin’s Hotel – and even did a stint on BBC’s Great British Menu. Both gave him a platform to showcase his creative, stylish cooking, but he longed for a business he could own. “I was tired of being taken
for a mug, working for someone who wasn’t particularly nice to work for,” he says. “So me and the team said ‘to hell with it – now it’s time to do it for ourselves’. And we did. And it was the best decision I ever made.” Since then, Handling hasn’t looked back. He pioneered a style of cooking that skirts between fine dining (tasting menus and conceptual dishes) and casual (street art and pumping music) at The Frog E1 in the Old Truman Brewery. Handling quietly opened a zero-waste café, Bean & Wheat, to complement the restaurant by making use of its food waste, before opening the flagship Frog by Adam Handling in Covent Garden and the accompanying Eve Bar. Now, with the lease up on ‘E1’, he’s moving it up the road. Frog Hoxton is three venues (the restaurant, bar Iron Stag and another Bean & Wheat, which he says he’ll open one of for every restaurant) that blend together exciting casual drinking and dining with a philosophy rooted in sustainable cooking. His five dishes, and his reflections on them, sum up the endeavours of a truly restless mind. f
‘MOTHER’ Photograph by ###
When I opened my first restaurant, we had 50 journalists, food critics and influential people coming in to taste my menu for the very first time. And my mother told me she was going to be vegetarian. So I created this dish, and I called it ‘Mother’ to try to embarrass her. It’s salt-baked celeriac, and then on the plate you’ve got truffled cheese, a confit yolk, and
it’s covered in limes and dates. It’s a dish that covers your whole mouth – salt, sweet, sour, bitter and umami. Back then I used really topend ingredients – probably because I wasn’t confident, and you feel like cooking lobster, beef fillet and foie gras is the way to cook. And because I had zero self-esteem, I covered it in black truffle. It seemed to do the best out of all of the dishes on the menu for this one particular dinner, and I’ve kept it on ever since.
BEETROOT, BEETROOT & MORE BEETROOT
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This is one of the first signature dishes that I created at E1, and it had mixed reviews: we had some people loving it and some publications saying it looked like a tampon. We burn the caramel and reform it into a tube. Inside that is a beetroot and yuzu gel, pickled beetroot, and
then a beetroot panna cotta, and it’s all covered in beetroot powder. We are British, at the end of the day, and beetroot is one thing that we grow in abundance, so it’s about giving it a pedestal to stand on. It’s a dish that makes the transition between a main course and dessert. And when you eat it, it’s sweet and sour and then it’s earthy. I think that transition, instead of a sorbet or something more traditional for a pre-dessert, is great. I won’t take it off Frog Hoxton’s menus.
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NITRO TIRAMISU With this, I wanted to take the flavours of tiramisu, but have traditional chocolate mousse glazed up deliciously, a beautiful chocolate shortbread, and make it really elegant – a lovely little dish. You’ve got that nitrogen-frozen tiramisu mousse – it’s very fresh, not overpowering with alcohol or coffee, and it works magically with the
chocolate – and then I cover the whole thing in mushroom powder. I feel that the mushrooms and the coffee and chocolate work incredibly well. I don’t tell diners that when I serve the dish, it’s just there. Then you put this frozen tiramisu on the top of it. It’s one where I wanted to dig my heels in and say that it doesn’t need to look beautiful to make it taste good. I wanted the diner to smash the life out of it at the table and then eat it.
PORK, KIMCHI AND CAULIFLOWER Photograph by ###
This was a dish we put on in Covent Garden, and E1, but Covent Garden was where I developed it to the stage it’s at now. It’s all about using phenomenal ingredients. If we’re going to do pork, presa Ibérica is an amazing cut to do it with, and it’s utilising
a cut of meat that doesn’t really get used that often. This is where the cauliflower idea came from: the florets were roasted; the stalks were barbecued, burnt and then made into a puree; and then the kimchi is made using the leaves of the cauliflower. So that one humble little cauliflower is covered in lots of ways in this dish. We used everything from that one single vegetable – that’s how that dish got created.
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O N LY I N C I N E M A S
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Hake and tomatoes is about two things: it’s Covent Garden, and it’s also my future. The sauce itself and the fish itself will never change – the garnish does, it changes with the seasons, and at the moment tomatoes are amazing – but that sauce, the sweet and sour crab sauce, is incredible. It’s finished with ginger, lemongrass, basil and coriander, so it’s very, very fresh and
a little bit spicy. That sauce is what got Covent Garden recognised, but the way it’s presented in the white bowl so elegantly like that is actually the future: I’m opening a hotel at the end of this year, and obviously even though it’s six months away, there’s a lot of work to do. This dish is one I’ll serve at the hotel – that’s why when I think of it, I think of the future as well. f Read the interview in full at foodism.co.uk Find out more at adamhandling.co.uk
BREAKING NEW GROUNDS After 120 years at the top of Italian coffee culture, and with one of the most ambitious construction projects in modern Italy, family-owned Lavazza is adjusting to a new reality, writes Mike Gibson
Photograph by Photograph Andrea Guermani by ###
COFFEE HOUSE: Lavazza’s new headquarters are in the Nuvola, a multi-million pound complex that’s part of a wider plan to boost Turin’s reputation as an economic hub
ROP BY ANY square in Turin, and the shadow of one particular company is cast far and wide over its tiny cafés. Its logo is printed on espresso cups and emblazoned on awnings; its product is portafilter-tampered and turned into espresso in a jet of steam. That company is Lavazza. But its influence spreads farther and wider than the streets of its home city, the region of Piedmont, and Italy. Lavazza has, in the 120 years since its founding, gone beyond being simply a company that makes and distributes coffee products to become one of the defining success stories of Italian business in the 20th and 21st centuries, synonymous with the concept of coffee itself in its home country.
LAVAZZA’S INFLUENCE SPREADS FURTHER THAN THE STREETS OF TURIN
If you want to see this story for yourself – to trace the timeline that saw Luigi Lavazza’s tiny grocery store become a behemoth with an annual revenue of £2bn and an estimated 47% market share in Italy – well, you can. A short flight to Milan Malpensa airport is where I start, followed by and an hour or so’s drive, where monolithic snow-covered Dolomites loom larger as we get closer to Turin, and then, inside the city, grubby, rugged outskirts give way to sumptuous, centuries-old European architecture in its apartment blocks and old squares. Because although Lavazza is a global brand, with offices in countries all over the world, its beating heart is right here in Turin. The city is its past, and now, with the company committing to a £750m new
NEW HORIZONS: [clockwise from above] The ultra-modern Nuvola sits in historical streets; old-school Lavazza trucks; Condividere restaurant
Photograph (main) by Andrea Guermani
headquarters right in the heart of the city’s Aurora district, it’s its future, too. The Lavazza story starts at Via San Tommaso, a small road in the city centre, in 1895. It was here that Luigi Lavazza turned his dream of opening a greengrocer into a reality. Italians had already acquired a taste for coffee, but it wasn’t until six years later that the drink would take Italian culture by the scruff of the neck. Milanese inventor Luigi Bezzera invented a unique machine to force pressurised hot water through coffee grounds, turning coffee from a somewhat unwieldy
drink that had to be steeped for half an hour into a strong, immediately delicious one that could be ready to drink in 30 seconds. Depending on who you talk to, it was named espresso either because of the way hot water is forced or ‘expressed’ through the grounds, or because it was an ‘express’ drink to to be ordered and consumed in a hurry. Whatever the nomenclature, the rapid rise of coffee to the forefront of Italy’s already bountiful gastronomic culture played into Luigi Lavazza’s hands: in the following years, coffee became his main, then only, product, and he moved into a bigger shopfront nearby. Through sourcing trips to coffeeproducing countries around the world, Lavazza became set on conquering the world of coffee in his home country, setting up the Luigi Lavazza Company with his wife and children in 1927, building infrastructure for sales and marketing and a fleet of delivery vehicles, and growing all the time. Coffee blending, much like that of champagne, is no mean feat. For a start, coffee is a natural product, which means beans from one of Lavazza’s partner farms in Colombia, for example, might taste different from one year’s harvest to the next. The blender’s job is to keep in mind a specific combination of flavours, and work backwards to find the right combination of beans to impart it. While Luigi Lavazza’s masterstroke was in blending coffees from different parts of the world to make a consistent, uniform taste, the coffee world is now going the other way, to coffees from a single point of origin, where the unique flavours of these coffees are celebrated. So with that in mind, where does one of the world’s most successful coffee companies, which has made its fortune largely on blended coffee, go from here? Lavazza has spent much of the last few decades preparing for that. Diversification is the name of the game, and that sense of history is matched by a hugely ambitious present-day operation at its Innovation Centre, a short drive away from the city centre. It’s here that its 90-strong R&D team taste coffees for quality and consistency (using the traditional ‘cupping’ approach favoured by the coffee industry), and experiment with ranges of single-origin coffees from some of its best farms. In particular, the brand’s Kafa Forest coffee, a 100% arabica coffee from Ethiopia, is becoming highly sought-after. I cup it and it sings – zingy and rich, with overt notes of chocolate and ripe blackberries and an incredibly long finish. The company invests in barista training and coffee education at
grassroots level here and in 56 other, smaller training centres around the world. Nearby, Lavazza’s biggest production facility produces and packages much of its coffee at an eye-watering rate. And it takes wandering around the warehouse, especially the seemingly unending shelves of packaging tended to by roving robotic cranes, to get a sense of the scale of the operation. It looks like a city made of coffee. Beans arrive from all over the tropics via the port city of Genoa, and their sorting, blending and packaging happens here, too. The facility is responsible for making almost all of the Lavazza-branded coffee in the world, right here in the city of its birth. If you walk through the centre of Turin, as I did, you can walk past San Tommasi 10, where it all began. And doing so makes it hit home that there is a heavily ingrained sense of home in Lavazza’s operations. There might have been times during its history where the company could have upped sticks – moved elsewhere in Italy or emigrated to another country entirely. But, as one look at a shiny building in the city’s Aurora district proves, →
→ that’s just not in the Lavazza DNA. The reason I’m here, other than for a jaunt around Lavazza’s facilities and the cafés of Turin, is for the culmination of a project that’s eye-watering in its scale. That project is the Nuvola. Meaning ‘cloud’, it’s a brand-new, £750m complex in a part of Turin previously known for an industrial heritage, comprising office spaces, a Lavazza Museum, a huge event space, gardens, public squares, cafés and restaurants, just a few hundred metres away from the company’s old headquarters. If the factory gave me a sense of the scale of Lavazza’s production, the press conference for the opening of the Nuvola gives an insight into just how important a brand Lavazza is: this is a company writ large into the fabric of Turin and of Italian business. There are more than 1,000 people present in the Nuvola’s grand event space (created from an old power plant), and more than 600 journalists from Italy and around the world. It ties in, apparently, to a wider aim of making Turin a city that can rival Rome and Milan at the centre of the Italian economy, and especially so in food and drink. At the launch party later on, attended by the current-day Lavazza family’s friends, titans of industry and other Italian glitterati, I stand literally shoulder-to-shoulder with Juventus captain Giorgio Chiellini and former Italy playmaker Andrea Pirlo. And as for Lavazza, at the time of its last office move in 1962, there were 300 employees and 12,000 tonnes of coffee per year was produced. Now, in 2018, those numbers stand at 3,000 and 140,000.
FULL OF BEANS: The Lavazza training centre. The company invests in barista training and coffee education at specialist sites all over the world
cup of coffee. Yes, really. Despite the theatrics, though, there is real emotion at work here – in the pride taken by the company in its history; in the words of the current-day Lavazza family on possibly the biggest milestone in its rich history. Lavazza might be doing things on an enormous scale, but it’s still a family-run company, and still a staple of the Turin landscape – albeit one that now cuts a notably more modern silhouette. There is a school of thought that all food and drink should be hand-crafted in tiny batches; that the end-point is landrace farming and products travelling a mile if at all. And while that’s a noble ambition, it’s not the world we live in. Considering the past, living the present and projecting the future of Lavazza in Turin is a timely reminder that a huge corporation can do things with heart, and with good conscience. It can play a significant role, with its new home, in the changing face of a city like Turin; and in its training centres, global expansion and new products that turn its history on its head, in the changing culture of coffee, too. What happens from here on is in its own hands. f For more information: lavazza.co.uk
Photographs by (training) Andrea Guermani; (HQ) Andy Stagg
It’s not only Lavazza’s Turin home that’s had a remodelling – the company has just moved into a new HQ in London, too. Its brand-new, similarly gleaming headquarters in the The Charter Building in Uxbridge will bring some coffee to the public, too, by way of a Lavazza bar.
There are many things to like about the Nuvola. Its looks, for one – the perspectiveshifting techno-cloud visuals on the main building are down to Milanese architect Cino Zucchi, while the ambitious Lavazza Museum was created in part by New York-based Ralph Appelbaum. It’s also been created with sustainability front-of-mind – as with most operations done by the modern-day Lavazza family, achieving a platinum Lead Certification by the Environmental Protection Agency that registers it as one of the top three most sustainable buildings in Italy and one of the most sustainable in the world. A part of the building acts as a museum for a fourthcentury Christian basilica that was discovered during the excavation process, meaning the plans for a whole section of the complex had to be changed mid-way through. There’s also food to be found there – Ferran Adrià has consulted on the restaurant Condividere, where Italian chef Federico Zanasi is the head chef. And a highlight is the Lavazza Museum, a huge, immersive experience that starts off as a straightforward timeline of the company, takes you through the advertising campaigns that have defined the company in Italy and across the world, and finishes with a circular installation that projects images onto a 360-degree screen made of curtain-like fabric strands, with the intention of making you feel like you’re in a
Double Dutch Drinks is a premium tonic and mixer brand that creates the most innovative flavours on the market. Using a unique approach to creating drinks that includes molecular gastronomy and food-pairing techniques, we have come up with award-winning flavours such as Cucumber & Watermelon and Pomegranate & Basil. Founded by twin sisters Joyce and Raissa de Haas, Double Dutch aims to delight the palate with every sip, and take you on a flavour adventure. We use 100% all natural ingredients, and all of our products are low in sugar and calories.
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RIGHT OFF THE BAT You shouldn’t have to wait until the evening for your cocktail fix – start the day in the right way with Little Bat’s brand-new brunch drinks, says Lydia Winter
A brunch twist on the classic French 75, this cocktails uses FEW’s breakfast gin that’s distilled with earl grey tea to give it a delicate floral, bergamot-infused flavour.
S IT EVER too early for a cocktail? The team behind Little Bat, on Islington Park Street, would answer that question with a resounding ‘no’ – and they’ve created a special brunch cocktail menu to prove it. The result is inventive and delicious, but then you’d expect no less from the sister site of Callooh Callay, Richard Wynne’s much-loved, award-winning drinking den. There are classics – the seasonal bellini was delicate and fruity, with apricot and a garnish of thyme, and there’s a fun bloody mary trolley, too – alongside more creative serves that, if you ask us, are a good way to get your weekend off to a great start. Hungover? Self-medicate with the Dilly Dally, a tangy, juicy concoction of Barsol pisco, pickle juice, aquafaba and IPA. Healthconscious? Get your avo fix with the Avorita, a smoky, moreish drink with Derrumbes Zacatecas mezcal, avocado and coriander, the glass rimmed with flakes of salt. Sweettoothed? Order the Elevenses, one of the menu’s stars: a teacup of rich, chocolatey McVitie’s Digestive rumbullion, tea and fairtrade cacao, served with a little jug of velvety cream. You can pour the cream into the cocktail, but we’d recommend sipping the tea mixture and using it as a chaser – it’s easier to get the balance right, it’s tasty, and it feels daringly decadent when you’re drinking it bright and early at 11am. This all sits alongside a brilliant breakfast menu that goes a bit further than what you’d usually expect. Sure, there’s avocado and poached egg on toast, but there’s a chickpea and potato parmesan truffle rosti, too, topped with either spinach or bacon and hollandaise. Then there’s a brunch ‘salad’ with baked ricotta, a hazelnut crust, asparagus, pickled radish and pesto, not to mention the roasted cauliflower and smoked cheddar croquettes, topped with a chilli relish. Little Bat, we salute you: brunch will never be the same again. 54 Islington Park Street, N1 1PX; littlebatbar.com
INGREDIENTS ◆◆ 40ml FEW breakfast gin ◆◆ 25ml homemade vanilla and lemon
syrup ◆◆ 15ml Italicus ◆◆ 20ml lemon juice ◆◆ Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label Photography Photograph by CharliebyMcKay ###
champagne Add all the ingredients except the champagne to your shaker. Add cubed ice and shake. Pour into a flute and top with champagne, then garnish with a lemon twist.
This summery serve is packed with juicy melon and pineapple, the sweetness offset by a couple of dashes of Peychaud’s bitters.
ING REDIENTS ◆◆ 25ml melonade ◆◆ 25ml pineapple shrub ◆◆ 2 dashes Peychaud’s Bitters ◆◆ Top with prosecco
Photography Photograph by CharliebyMcKay ###
Add the melonade, shrub and bitters to your shaker, throw in some cubed ice and shake. Strain into a wine glass, add cubed ice and top with prosecco. Garnish with a slice of cantaloupe melon.
AVORITA This deliciously smoky take on a margarita is also packed with creamy avocado – which means it’s basically a healthy breakfast smoothie, right?
INGREDIENTS ◆◆ 40ml Derrumbes Zacatacas mezcal ◆◆ 25ml lime juice ◆◆ 4 coriander leaves ◆◆ 25ml avocado mix (avocado, triple
sec, salt) ◆◆ 20ml agave
Add all ingredients into a shaker, shake hard and strain into a rocks glass over ice and garnish with a coriander sprig. Use smoked salt around the rim of the glass.
Photography Photograph by CharliebyMcKay ###
WHITLEY NEILL’S SUMMER SERVES Thought gin only went with tonic? These cocktails from Whitley Neill Gin will prove you wrong – and they’re simple enough to throw together in a flash
BLOOD ORANGE ELDERFLOWER GARDEN
RASPBERRY GIN FIZZ Ingredients ◆◆ 25ml Whitley Neill Raspberry Gin
◆◆ 100ml prosecco
◆◆ 50ml Whitley Neill Blood Orange Gin
◆◆ Raspberries, to garnish
◆◆ 25ml elderflower liqueur ◆◆ 15ml lime juice
◆◆ 150ml ginger ale
Pour prosecco into a champagne flute and then add the raspberry gin on top. Drop in a raspberry to garnish.
◆◆ Orange slice, to garnish
Add cubed ice to a highball glass. Pour in all the ingredients and stir. Garnish with an orange slice.
GIN & JUICE Ingredients ◆◆ 50ml Whitley Neill
Handcrafted Dry Gin
◆◆ 50ml orange juice
◆◆ 50ml grapefruit juice
◆◆ Orange slice, to garnish
RHUBARB & GINGER SPRITZ Ingredients
Method Add cubed ice to a highball glass. Pour in all the ingredients and stir. Garnish with an orange slice.
◆◆ 50ml Whitley Neill Rhubarb
& Ginger Gin ◆◆ 20ml elderflower cordial ◆◆ 20ml lemon juice ◆◆ 60ml soda water ◆◆ Mint sprig, to garnish
Method Add cubed ice to a tumbler. Pour in all the ingredients and stir. Garnish with the sprig of mint.
GIN AND DO IT For more recipes, information and to shop the range, visit the website, whitleyneill.com. Follow on social media at @WhitleyNeill on Facebook and Twitter, or find more inspiration by following @WhitleyNeillGin on Instagram
THE APPLE PISTON ◆◆ 60ml Chilean
◆◆ Organics by
Red Bull Tonic Water ◆◆ Slice of apple
ORGANICS BY RED BULL TONIC WATER: This crisp tonic is made with china bark (pictured) – also known as cinchona, an evergreen tree native to South America – lemon juice and fresh lime.
Pisco is an up-and-coming spirit, and it marries remarkably well with tonic water. For this summery long drink, pour the gin into a copa glass filled with ice, top with Tonic Water and garnish with apple to amp up the grassy, fresh aroma of the pisco.
HEN THE SUN’S out, you can’t beat a cool, refreshing sparkling drink, and the new range of Organics by Red Bull, which includes Simply Cola, Ginger Ale, Tonic Water and Bitter Lemon – all made with ingredients from 100% natural sources – is ideal for sipping solo or mixing. When we got our hands on the range, we couldn’t wait to play with spirit pairings that brought the best out of their unique flavours. From fresh grapefruit and mezcal to Chilean pisco and spicy rye whiskey, we’ve given you a bit of personal foodism cocktail inspiration for each one. Though that’s not to say you can’t play around with them at home, of course... ● Organics by Red Bull are now available on Amazon, at Street Feast and Night Tales, and in select Best-One and MRH Hursts outlets
EAU NATUREL Organics by Red Bull are high-quality, refreshing soft drinks made with ingredients from natural origin, and they’re perfect for mixing 82
ORGANICS BY RED BULL BITTER LEMON: This drink’s sharpness stems from quassia (pictured) – a botanical used in aperitifs and bitters. It’s softened with orange extracts, lemon juice and fresh lime.
FOODISM SERVE PHotography by (main) Ian Dingle. All insets Shutterstock /
(Bergamot) 7th Son Studio; (Galangal) EvergreenYdp; (Chinchona & Quassia) Heike Rau
THE NEW FASHIONED ◆◆ 60ml rye whiskey ◆◆ Organics by
Red Bull Ginger Ale ◆◆ Orange zest
The gentle spicy notes of the Ginger Ale marry beautifully with rye whisky, which inspired our twist on the Old Fashioned. Pour 60ml of rye over ice in a tumbler, top with ginger ale, twist a piece of orange zest over the top to release the oils, then garnish with an orange spiral.
THE COLA CUP ◆◆ 30ml London
◆◆ Organics by Red
Bull Simply Cola
◆◆ Cucumber slices
◆◆ Strawberry slices
ORGANICS BY RED BULL GINGER ALE: Ginger and lemon juice are mixed with fresh bergamot (pictured) – a fragrant citrus fruit from the Mediterranean – for a spicy, aromatic finish.
◆◆ Mint sprig
Coke is often mixed with dark spirits, but this lightly spiced cola works really well with the botanicals in the gin and the zesty fruits and mint. Pour the gin into a goblet filled with ice, add slices of cucumber, strawberries and freshly slapped mint and top with the Cola.
THE LEMON PALOMA ◆◆ 30ml jovén mezcal ◆◆ 60ml grapefruit
Photograph by ###
ORGANICS BY RED BULL SIMPLY COLA: Clove, cardamom, galangal (pictured) and other carefully selected spices and plant extracts give the Cola a full-bodied, characteristic flavour.
◆◆ Organics by Red
Bull Bitter Lemon
◆◆ Grapefruit wedge
For a refreshing twist on the classic Paloma, fill a highball glass with ice, add the mezcal, then the grapefruit juice, and top with the Bitter Lemon. Garnish with a grapefruit wedge.
WHAT A CATCH... We asked three of London's most creative chefs to cook with wild, natural and sustainable Alaska Pollock. The results? Three different but utterly delicious recipes
HERE ARE MANY reasons why London’s restaurant scene has a case for being one of the best and most exciting in the world. And one of the most convincing is the appetite chefs in the city have for doing things differently; for looking at the food they cook and the restaurants they run in truly distinctive and innovative ways. Nud Dudhia, Manu Canales and Neil Rankin are all fine examples of this approach. Between them, they capture the essence of what makes this city such an amazing one to eat in: being unafraid to take risks with flavour and technique,
and expertly combining influences from all over the world to create their own unique style of cooking. In these three recipes, created in association with Wild Alaska Seafood, we challenged each of them to create an innovative recipe with Wild Alaska Pollock, a flaky white fish sustainably line-caught in cold Alaskan waters, kept frozen for maximum freshness, and that can be cooked from frozen, too. Their dishes each exemplify what’s it’s like to cook without boundaries, and to be unafraid to be different. Here's what these incredible chefs decided to create.
WHITES, CAMERA, ACTION... These recipes were produced as part of the Be Different campaign, in association with Wild Alaska Seafood. To see Neil Rankin, Nud Dudhia and Manu Canales in action creating their brilliant dishes, head over to foodism. co.uk/be-different, where you'll find the recipe videos. For more information about Wild Alaska Seafood, go to alaskaforeverwild.com
DETROIT-STYLE KATSU PIZZA WITH WILD ALASKA POLLOCK SERVES: 4 PREP TIME: 60 mins COOK TIME: 15 mins
Some chefs feel so attached to a nation's cuisine that the idea of fusion seems totally alien. Neil Rankin is not one of those chefs. At his Temper restaurants – one in Soho, one in the City of London and the newest in Covent Garden – Rankin takes flavours, techniques and cooking styles from a multitude of different countries' food traditions and uses them as a vehicle to reinterpret classic dishes in his own unique way. When we gave him a piece of Wild Alaska Pollock, he created a Detroitstyle pizza with Italian cheeses, a Japanese curry sauce. The result is simpler than it seems: a delicious dish that's greater than the sum of its parts. BELOW: Neil Rankin cooking his creative deep-dish Detroit-style pizza, with a Japanese katsu curry sauce, fennel jam, prawn mayo – and, of course, beautiful Wild Alaska Pollock
Method 1 Fry the onion till soft, and add the spices, ginger and garlic. Add the chicken stock and cook down by half. 2 Season with dashi then thicken with slaked cornflour. 3 For the prawn oil, cook leftover prawn shells and heads in oil until it turns red and becomes aromatic. 4 For the prawn panko, use the oil to pan-fry the panko. Add salt to taste. 5 For the prawn mayo, whisk the egg yolks in a bowl with the vinegar and mustard, then add the prawn oil and whisk together gradually until thickened. Season with a pinch of salt, a squeeze of lemon juice and a little more vinegar, if needed. 6 Take your dough and roll it out to the size of your deep dish pan and let it rise in a warm place. 7 To make and serve, set your oven to 250°C. Cover the top of the dough with cheese and then curry sauce. bake for 8-10 mins 8 Steam the Wild Alaska Pollock for about 8 mins, until flakey. 9 When the cheese is cooked, add the flaked pollock, fennel jam and the panko. Slice into squares, then top with mayo and dill.
INGREDIENTS ◆◆ 400g pizza dough
◆◆ 250g fior di latte, grated ◆◆ 50g Pecorino, grated ◆◆ 50g fennel jam
◆◆ 100g steamed Wild Alaska Pollock ◆◆ 30g prawn panko ◆◆ 10g picked dill
◆◆ 40g prawn mayo
For the katsu curry ◆◆ 200g sliced onion
◆◆ 300g chicken stock
◆◆ 2 tsp garam masala ◆◆ 2 tsp cornflour
◆◆ 2 tsp garlic paste
◆◆ 2 tsp ginger paste
◆◆ 2 tsp dashi soup granules
For the fennel jam ◆◆ 4 fennel bulb, sliced
◆◆ 1 large onion, sliced ◆◆ 1 tsp cumin
◆◆ 1 tsp fennel seeds ◆◆ 1 clove
◆◆ 1 tsp chilli seeds
◆◆ 100g light brown sugar ◆◆ 100ml cider vinegar
For the prawn mayonnaise ◆◆ 200ml prawn oil
◆◆ 2 free-range egg yolks
◆◆ 1 heaped teaspoon Dijon mustard ◆◆ 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar ◆◆ ½ lemon
◆◆ Salt to taste
Photography by Will Berman
WILD ALASKA POLLOCK KEBAB SERVES: 2 PREP TIME: 25 mins COOK TIME: 40 mins
As a chef, creativity is just about the most important attribute you can have. Luckily, that quality is something Manu Canales has in spades. With Le Bab, he's earned a reputation for using the kebab format in forward-thinking ways, borrowing from different cuisines to create dishes full of contrasting flavours. When we gave him a beautiful piece of Wild Alaska Pollock to play with, he made a kebab to match the fish's meaty texture and subtle flavour, with Persian flourishes, seasoned fried rice and a refreshing fennel salad to liven it up.
Method 1 Mix all the spices thoroughly, and rub the fillets with approximately half of the mix, shake the excess off. Let the fish come to room temperature. 2 Add the spices, raisins and salt to the
stock, bring it to the boil, set aside and cover to infuse for 15 minutes. Add the rice, stir and bring it to a simmer for about 10 minutes without stirring, until the stock has absorbed but the rice still has a bite. Cover and set aside for 5 minutes. Shave the fennel bulb with a mandoline or slice thinly with a knife, add the pomegranate seeds and dress it to your liking. Garnish with some fresh coriander leaves on top. Add olive oil to a non-stick pan and set to a high heat. Once the oil starts to smoke, add the rice and press it down against the pan. In order to create a crust, it's important that you do not stir the rice. After 4 minutes, reduce the heat to medium, and 2 minutes later, turn off the heat. Grill the fillets on a hot griddle pan or the BBQ on high heat, for about 30 seconds on each side. Be careful because they are thin and at room temperature, so will cook quickly. To serve, slip the rice from the pan onto a serving plate. It should come out in one piece with a golden crust. Serve it with the salad and the pollock fillets slightly to its side.
INGREDIENTS ◆◆ 4 fillets of Wild Alaska Pollock
For the spice rub ◆◆ 1g smoked paprika ◆◆ ¼ tsp turmeric
◆◆ 1tbsp Muscovado sugar ◆◆ 1tbsp salt
For the Persian rice ◆◆ 500g long grain rice ◆◆ 75g golden raisins
◆◆ 2 pinches of saffron ◆◆ 2tbps fennel seeds ◆◆ 1tsp cayenne ◆◆ 1tsp cumin
◆◆ 1tsp coriander
◆◆ 1.2l chicken stock ◆◆ 15g salt
For the fennel salad ◆◆ 1 fennel bulb
◆◆ 4 tbsp pomegranate seeds ◆◆ 1 lemon, juiced
◆◆ 1 handful of coriander leaves, to
garnish ◆◆ Olive oil, to garnish ◆◆ Salt, to season
INGREDIENTS ◆◆ 1 Wild Alaska Pollock fillet, cut into
4 40-50 gram rectangular pieces
◆◆ 100g rice flour to dip the fish into ◆◆ 500ml rapeseed oil, for frying
For the fish batter ◆◆ 150g plain flour
◆◆ ½ tsp baking powder ◆◆ 1 tsp fine salt
◆◆ 200ml cold sparkling water or light
For the mango salsa ◆◆ 1 mango, diced into small cubes ◆◆ 1 lime, juiced
◆◆ 1 small habanero or jalapeno chilli,
seeded and finely diced
◆◆ 1 small handful of chopped
◆◆ 1 small handful of chopped mint ◆◆ A pinch of salt
◆◆ A pinch of sugar ◆◆ 1 tsp of olive oil
For the chipotle mayonnaise ◆◆ 100ml mayonnaise
◆◆ 35ml chipotle in adobo
To serve ◆◆ ½ head red cabbage, finely
BAJA FISH TACO WITH WILD ALASKA POLLOCK MAKES: 4 PREP TIME: 30 mins COOK TIME: 20 mins
Nud Dudhia and Chris Whitney travelled far and wide to find the inspiration behind the perfect fish taco to serve at Breddos Tacos, a Mexican-inspired eatery empire that comprises two London restaurants and a selection of ever-popular street-food stalls. They went all the way to Mexico's Baja Peninsula, in fact, where they discovered the secret to it was all in the quality of white fish and simple, colourful and delicious accompaniments. When we presented him with a shimmering piece of Wild Alaska Pollock, he knew exactly what to do.
Method 1 To make the salsa, mix all ingredients together and store in the fridge until you need it. 2 Blend the mayonnaise with the chipotle until combined and set aside.
3 Heat the rapeseed oil to 190°C. 4 Prep the batter by mixing together the flour, baking powder and salt. Slowly pour in the sparkling water or beer until you have a pancake like consistency. Don’t worry about lumps. 5 Dip the fish into the rice flour, then using tongs, or carefully with your fingers, dip the fish into the batter. Let the excess batter drip off and slowly release the fish into the hot oil. Be sure to put the fish into the oil away from your body in case of any splashbacks. Repeat with 3 other pieces of fish. Cook for 3-4 minutes, until the fish looks golden and crispy. 6 Take the 4 pieces of fish out of the oil, sprinkle with a pinch of salt and leave to drain on kitchen paper. 7 Then prep the tortillas in a dry, hot frying pan, heating them up until warm to the touch – this should take around 1 minute per side. 8 Next, place a dollop of mayonnaise on each tortilla, followed by a small amount of red cabbage a portion of fish and a teaspoon of mango salsa. Garnish with coriander leaves and a wedge of lime. ●
◆◆ 100ml mango salsa (as above) ◆◆ 100g chipotle mayonnaise (as
above) ◆◆ 4 limes, halved ◆◆ 1 small bunch of coriander, leaves picked ◆◆ 4 tortillas
BELOW: Nud Dudhia of Breddos Tacos used Wild Alaska Pollock in this update on the traditional – and totally delicious – baja fish taco
— PART 3 —
EXCESS “I’M HANDED A PLATE OF GATO ZINZLI – SQUIDGY, SWEET PARCELS COATED IN SESAME SEEDS AND FILLED WITH BLACK LENTILS” HANNAH SUMMERS ON STREET FOOD IN MAURITIUS, 098
090 MAORI COOKING IN NEW ZEALAND | 098 MAURITIAN STREET FOOD 104 THE GETAWAY: PARIS | 106 RICHARD H TURNER | 109 THE DIGEST | 112 BOTTLE SERVICE 121 THE SELECTOR | 130 DECONSTRUCT
BACK TO BASICS A growing movement to bring MÄ ori culinary traditions to greater prominence, combined with an outstanding array of homegrown produce, mean that New Zealandâ€™s food scene is really shining, says David J Constable
Photograph by ###
LOVE NEST: MÄ nuka smoked chocolate truffles with toasted harakeke seeds at Hiakai, a pop-up serving re-imagined traditional MÄ ori cuisine
OSIE’S ASTUTE SNOUT is a sniffing machine. Sniff, sniff. Snuffle, snuffle. She moves with purpose, rooting around in the earth in the Waipara Valley, just north of Christchurch. She is a beagle with a difference, hunting down a bounty of black Périgord truffles. For this particular excavation, Rosie and her owner Gareth Renowden had me in tow, attempting in my amateurish, twitchy-nosed way to sense out a fungal bouquet of my own. It’s exciting stuff, surveying the land, digging the soil, making a right old mess of things. But none of this seems special or evolutionary to locals – certainly not to Rosie – rather just part of the spoils of having such a lush, bountiful and fertile landscape. New Zealand is an over-spilling allotment, flanked by the Pacific Ocean, and for a visitor like me, the munificence of produce creates wild envy. People’s relationships with their larders are almost spiritual here, though it makes me wonder: do Kiwis actually know how good they’ve got it? I arrive into Auckland – the largest city in New Zealand, in the north of the North Island – tired and bleary-eyed, seeking out coffee. I find it at The Shelf and Remedy Coffee, then follow it with soft-shell crab and a thick chowder at The Crab Shack on Princes Wharf. It’s immediately obvious that this is a city obsessed with food; restaurants, street stalls, and food trucks all promote Kiwi produce, from condiments and dressings direct from back gardens to the popular Pascall Pineapple Lumps I see numerous kids munching on (though production of the latter has recently moved to Australia). And, while Auckland has a worldly gathering of fast-food outlets – all of the mingled aromas of a Chuck’N’Chicken,
Subway, Dunkin’ Donuts, and a vast array of noodle takeouts – places like The French Café, Orphans Kitchen, and Ponsonby Road Bistro, proudly promote regional fare. Beyond Auckland, too, Kiwi ingredients are supported at markets in an ever-growing local-seasonal-organic food movement. Towards the southeast corner of the North Island, in the Hawkes Bay region, I visit a growers’ market at Black Barn vineyards; a charming example of local produce promoted within the community. A collection of popup stalls are housed beneath a ring of plane trees, and it’s here that I try my first whitebait fritter – a New Zealand favourite that’s usually somewhere between an omelette and a pancake, depending on where you’re eating it – drink outstanding flat whites, and buy a jar of the country’s famous mānuka honey. It’s important to remember that, despite the snow-capped mountains, ski fields and dense glaciation, New Zealand is a Polynesian country, right down to the sub-Antarctic Auckland Islands, where the southernmost corner of the Polynesian Triangle reaches. Food is naturally a reflection of this, and there’s a growing movement to bring the
TIKIFICATION OF PACIFIC FOOD HAS DONE MAORI CUISINE NO FAVOURS
CREATING A BUZZ: [clockwise from here] Orphans Kitchen champions local produce, to the point that it has its own honey-making bees on the roof; tables at The French Café in Auckland; Remedy Coffee in Auckland; seafood at Hiakai
To find out more about visiting New Zealand, see newzealand.com. Cathay Pacific offers a choice of three fight routes between the UK and Hong Kong, and onwards to Auckland and Christchurch (seasonal flight) from £755 return. These include five flights per day from London Heathrow and daily flights from London Gatwick and Manchester. For more information about routes, and to book head to cathaypacific.co.uk or call Cathay Pacific on 0800 917 8260.
Photograph [The French Café] by Dean Foster
food traditions of the Māori – New Zealand’s indigenous Polynesian people – to a greater prominence. While here, I eat kokoda (a traditional Fijian raw fish dish), taewa tutaekuri (a native purple potato), and meals prepared in ground ovens called hangi. It may be the backbone of the country’s culinary heritage, but Māori cooking remains far from mainstream, and the global ‘tikification’ of Pacific food has done the cuisine no favours. It is, however, finally beginning to be incorporated into day-today dining, thanks to people like Monique Fiso, a chef who left the fixed kitchen behind to create a pop-up restaurant called Hiakai,
based in the capital, Wellington. Hiakai pops up in unexpected and far-flung locations, where Fiso reimagines traditional Māori cuisine in a contemporary context. Another is Māori chef Charles Pipi Tukukino Royal, who I join for a morning of foraging at his home, half an hour from Rotorua in central North Island. Royal is a former field chef in the New Zealand Army, as well as working for Air New Zealand’s in-flight catering service. He runs a business – Kinaki Wild Herbs – based on sourcing
indigenous treats from the native forests, and is a leading figure in the rediscovery of wild herbs and edible ferns (generally overlooked since early Māori settlement) that have now been elevated to contemporary fine food status. Together we tread the bush, picking horopito (wild peppers), pikopiko (edible ferns), and kawakawa (bush basil). Lunch is a five-course blowout, and everything that we eat apart from a brown trout has been picked, plucked, pulled and gathered from nature this morning. “People talk about →
HOMEGROWN HEROES: regional, sustainable cooking that educates diners about Māori heritage is the name of the game at Auckland restaurant Orphans Kitchen
→ self-sufficiency and foraging – the importance of knowing your surroundings – but that’s always been the Māori way,” says Royal. “It’s not a new thing for me.” What is beginning to emerge is a crosspollination of foods; a brave new world in which the old blends seamlessly in a unified Asian, European and Pacific-Māori cuisine. Jeremy Rameka of Pacifica in Napier – voted Restaurant of the Year by Cuisine magazine’s
a casual and fine-dining context. Perhaps unsurprisingly, many of these places put great emphasis on location, too, with restaurants overlooking lakes, vineyards or the ocean, while others are attached to a kitchen garden promoting sustainability and a robust agrarian philosophy. In Christchurch, the South Island’s largest city, I meet Jonny Schwass at his Ilex Cafe in the botanical gardens, and together we tackle a truly gargantuan pavlova with fierce determination. Next, I head 75km east to the volcanic Banks peninsula, where Lou and Ant Bentley of Akaroa Cookery School feed me pink and luscious smoked Akaroa salmon, taken flapping that morning from waters ten metres from where we’re sitting. Returning to Christchurch, I chat to Alex Davies at his restaurant, Gatherings, where the plant-based menu is informed by Davies’ decision, in 2015, to leave the kitchen and work on an organic vegetable farm in Swannanoa, North Canterbury. It’s commonplace today for chefs to talk about the stories behind their ingredients, →
Photograph by Josh Griggs
COUNTLESS CHEFS ARE PROMOTING REGIONAL, SEASONAL PRODUCE
Good Food Awards – is a leading advocate for Māori food, making use of quintessentially New Zealand ingredients such as kina (a type of sea urchin), sea snails, eel, and muttonbird. On the South Island, Giulio Sturla of Roots restaurant in Lyttelton near Christchurch, a Chilean chef raised in Ecuador with experience at three Michelin-starred Mugaritz, integrates many indigenous ingredients in his menus, such as gardengrown garlic and koji (fermented barley). “We should understand that we are a diverse and multicultural country and have the best produce you’ll find in the world,” says Sturla. With each Kiwi I encounter, I make a point of asking what ingredients and dishes define New Zealand cuisine for them. It’s an interesting and useful study with myriad answers: lamb, pies, crayfish, whitebait, Akaroa salmon, anything dairy. Few, however, mention native ingredients or Polynesian cooking techniques. Despite this, I see more and more indigenous elements incorporated into dishes while I’m here, presented in both
remarkable due to the inclusion of 40% reserve wines and a minimum three year’s ageing in vast and rare Crayères (chalk cellars)*. Charles Heidsieck is one of the world’s most awarded champagnes. Just like his wine, Charles was a man of style and depth, of conviction and character. * Charles Heidsieck Crayères (chalk cellars) are part of the historical sites of the UNESCO’s world heritage list.
Rotorua Whakarewarewa - The Living Maori Village
With over 200 years of history, the Tuhourangi/ Ngati Wahiao tribe have lived in a harsh geothermal environment and today, welcome guests to explore (and eat) with them. Try the Hangi Pie meal, cooked in the bubbling geothermal waters and steam of the Whakarewarewa Valley. 17 Tryon Street, Whakarewarewa 3010 whakarewarewa.com
Currently the number one restaurant in New Zealand, chef and co-owner Jeremy Rameka runs this small eatery, set within a weathered blue beach bungalow. With a small kitchen (two people), expect Michelin-quality food, served with heart and a strong Māori identity. 209 Marine Parade, Napier Central 4110 pacificarestaurant.co.nz
SOU T H ISL AND Christchurch Roots
→ promoting a narrative of local, seasonal
A TASTE OF NZ, FROM NORTH TO SOUTH NO RTH ISL AND Auckland Pasture
Ed and Laura Verner’s award-winning restaurant is a labour of love that defies traditions. The bread here is something else, and there’s a natural wine list that favours rare pickings from New Zealand and Australia too. 235 Parnell Road, Parnell 1052 pastureakl.com
Sisters Renee and Damaris Coulter run this popular Italian eatery, incorporating negative TripAdvisor feedback into their website marketing. They also created The Realness, a collective of independent operated restaurants, supporting and promoting one another. 376 Karangahape Road 1010 cocoscantina.co.nz/therealness.world
An ever-changing menu offering the delights of French gastronomy, but with Kiwi ingredients, and spectacular views of Lake Wanaka. Also, where I had my best experience of lamb: a juicy rump of barbecued Cardrona Merino lamb breast. 76A Golf Course Road 9305 bistrogentil.co.nz
Dunedin Fleur’s Place
A tiny restaurant on the jetty in Moeraki Bay, a beach that’s famed for its rock formations, and also supplies the fish for the kitchen. Like the menu, the restaurant is simple, rustic and built with taste. 169 Haven Street, Moeraki 9482 fleursplace.com
Photograph by ###
and organic, but how many actually travel to the source of those stories or work the land? More than ever before, apparently – in New Zealand, at least. Since I landed in Auckland, I’ve met countless chefs who are promoting regional produce and incorporating it into dishes that lean on seasonality, not to mention the country’s cultural and culinary heritage. Along with this has come a palpable patriotic buzz, and a strengthened food system – one the UK could learn from – that emphasises exporting more and importing less. The Ministry of Primary Industries’ website carries a clear message: ‘New Zealand’s primary industries are focused on export markets.’ In short, feed the country the good stuff and export the surplus to the world. Which, for you and me, means going straight to the source. Believe me when I say it’s worth it, for a taste of the world’s most exciting new culinary movement. f
Chef and co-owner Giulio Sturla hails from South America but his heart and menu are rooted in New Zealand. This small restaurant in Christchurch’s port town of Lyttelton offers a seasonal degustation menu sourced from local and biodynamic farms, and their own extensive garden. 8 London Street, Lyttelton 8082 rootsrestaurant.co.nz
E E R F R A GO SUG A L O C I R H WIT hing sweet
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LemonMint Melissa officinalis
Available from the confectionery aisle of larger Sainsburyâ€™s, Waitrose, Morrisons and Holland & Barrett stores
With our unique blend of 13 Swiss herbs
Lactose Suitable for Free vegetarians & vegans
Photograph by MikePhotograph Robinson /byAlamy ###
POTTED HISTORY The food in Mauritius isn’t just delicious, it tells the fascinating story of an island influenced by many different cultures over hundreds of years, says Hannah Summers
T’S 9AM ON a Saturday morning in Port Louis, the capital of Mauritius. Beside me an old dude gazes at a rail that’s crammed with an array of jazzy polyester boxers. He selects his favourite pair, pays up, and then joins me in a queue that wiggles through the maze of market stalls. We wait together patiently, watching as a lady rolls up the sleeves of her turquoise polka-dot dress and starts kneading dough with the expertise of someone who’s done this a million times before. She wipes her hands on her flowery apron, then ladles lima beans and rougaille, a tomato, onion and garlic sauce, into my roti. She then hands it
to me on a sheet of paper, its oily weight lolling off the sides. Old dude urges me to take a nibble. And I do. No, this is not an Indian Ocean honeymoon gone wrong – although you’d be forgiven for thinking so. I have not been jilted, and I’m not here with my fiancé, my paunchy husband of 40 years, or a faultless new beau. I’m happily alone. Forget scampering along the beach to secure a sun lounger at 6am, stuffing myself silly at the buffet breakfast or anything else that typically comes with a trip to this beachpacked island – I’m here on a different mission: to learn about Mauritius via its food. This – I think, taking a giant bite – may just be
the world’s greatest history lesson. My spicy roti is just the beginning, or rather the middle. “Mauritius is a volcanic island so there’s no natural population,” my guide, Yianna, from independent tour company MyMoris explains. “The Arabs were the first to come in 975AD – they put the island on the map. The Portuguese arrived on the island in the early 16th century; they found jungle and left. The Dutch followed in 1598, a time when the island was known as ‘Rat Island’, as the boats were filled with rats. They ate all our dodo eggs. Then in 1715 the French conquered the island and imported slaves, but the British took over in the early 19th century and abolished slavery, instead hiring half a million workers from India who came to work in the sugarcane fields. That,”
THE ROTI IS JUST ONE PART OF THE ISLAND’S CULINARY HISTORY
Photographs by (vendor) Keith Erskine/Alamy; (Port Louis & Peanut vendor) Eric Nathan /Alamy; (Roti) dbimages/Alamy; (China Town) dpa picture alliance archive/Alamy
she says, pointing to a smear of something on my face, “is why you’re eating roti here today.” The roti is just one part of the island’s culinary history, where Indian, Chinese, European and African influences mingle together in the tourist-free backstreets of the capital. We continue wandering through Trou Fanfaron market, the stalls at the side overlooking a swarm of brightly painted buses that are waiting to scoop up the last few punters keen to take the trundling journey along the coast. Inside, shoulder-to-shoulder stands threaten to fold beneath the weight of undies, nighties and tat, while other tables buckle under giant mounds of brède – the ubiquitous term used to describe any leafy greens that are thrown into soups, stews and curries. At one stall a cluster of 80-somethings and eight-year-olds jostle for a portion of small, hot-pink beads. “Nuts,” Yianna explains, “we dye them. Mauritians love to eat pink food.” That may be true, but today colours seems irrelevant. Pink, brown, white – double-figure queues group together at virtually every stall and shop in a city. Custard-coloured buildings are on the cusp of collapse – in that crumbly way that’s charming in any country other than your own – and the hot, still air is filled with the scent of spices, exhaust fumes and salt. This is a port city, after all. We wander on, soon stopping at the battered two-storey high wooden doors of what looks like the most popular breakfast spot in town. A teenager leans on the door’s peeling tomato-red and Chelsea-blue paint – he’s part of the family that’s been dishing out gato pima to loyal customers for decades. The dark brown, deep-fried balls of split peas, chilli, coriander and spring onions are tossed into a paper bag before they’re devoured by passers by, their mouths hanging open in that familiar way that comes when you greedily put any roasting-hot food into your mouth. I do the same, knocked back by the holy trinity
of heat, spice and teeth-threatening crunch. Nearby, in a shady, metre-wide covered alleyway, things are much less frantic. I take a seat at one of three red plastic tables before a portion of plump chicken dumplings are plopped into a flowery bowl and placed in front of me. “The first wave of Chinese migration was in the 1780s. The artisans worked for French families in the capital, and set up shops and restaurants like this one,” Yianna tells me. I spoon some chilli onto the dumplings and finish them in minutes, my thoughts instantly diverting to dessert. Nearby I hover in the dark and battered shop doorway of a shop called Lilinne’s. I’m handed a paper plate of unidentifiable dishes, including gato zinzli – squidgy, sweet parcels coated in sesame seeds and filled with black lentils, an adaptation of the traditional red
beans that Lilinne’s grandpa couldn’t source when he opened here in the 1950s. The shop may be largely unchanged, but today, the capital’s China Town (a term given to the area in the 1980s when labelling Chineseinhabited areas was all the rage) is home to new additions, from the colourful street art that tarts up the neighbourhood’s blackened walls, to rooftop pagodas that act as peaceful sanctuaries in a city that’s joyfully hectic with horns and hustlers. Forget the swaying palms and powdery sand: it’s this chaotic jumble of cultures that makes Mauritius hypnotic. We walk on, sidestepping giant sacks of spices, lentils and beans that spill out of shop fronts on the pavements. Old wooden shelves droop beneath the weight of ludicrously stinky dried fish, their tails wedged into any available →
PORT OF ALL: [opposite] Port Louis, capital of Mauritius; [clockwise from here] roti, a Mauritian staple; Port Louis’ China Town; peanut stalls are another common sight in the waterside city
SNACK OF BEYOND: [clockwise from here] Street food is abundant in the Mauritian capital Port Louis; one of the city’s Hindu temples; locally grown produce at Port Louis market
branches in its garden laden with the fruit of mangoes and almonds. Fruit trees? In a capital? “The French made a law that every house must have a fruit tree in the garden,” Yianna explains. “It’s likely that a house was on this site during the French period, and they decided to build the mosque around the trees instead of cutting them down.” Today, breadfruit, tamarind and lychee still dot the city’s gardens.
THE FRENCH MADE A LAW THAT EVERY HOUSE MUST HAVE A FRUIT TREE IN THE GARDEN 102
We cut through the vast Central Market in search of our last meal. Beneath its lofty ceilings stall owners shout out trying to sell me fruit, vegetables and herbal aphrodisiacs. Tempting, but not today. Instead we arrive at a stall. What its owner Ameen lacks in customer service he makes up for with PR know-how. A sign displayed on his tiny stand’s glass cabinet boldly claims that he’s the number one gato patate maker in Mauritius – a Hindu sweet potato speciality he’s been serving up to customers for 40 years. He hands me one. The treacle-coloured parcel is cold and, er, flaccid in my hand. It looks unpleasant. It feels unpleasant. I take a reluctant bite and Ameen’s face finally crinkles into a happy grin. He knows. Forget the rum I’ve guzzled, the empty beaches or the mountains I’ve climbed – it’s this coconutty sweet potato cake that I think back to from my trip to Mauritius. If only all history lessons could be so good. f MyMoris offers a range of food and cultural tours on the island, mymoris.mu; Beachcomber Dinarobin offers nightly rates from £250 per room per night, beachcomber-hotels.com; For more information see tourism-mauritius.mu
Photograph by (temple) Mike Robinson/Alamy; (food Stall) Hoberman Collection/Alamy; (vegetable seller) DeAgostini/Alamy
→ crevice in a Jenga-style structure. A lady bags some up to buy, then eyes up the other end of the shelf, where fruity shower gels promise to wash away the whiff. Convenience stores don’t get better than this. But a trip to the capital doesn’t just have to be a case of meal hopping. Visually it’s fascinating – from the fancy iron gates of Central Market that are dedicated to Queen Victoria, to the turquoise and white volcanic stone of the Jummah mosque, which stands serenely on a traffic-clogged street, the tree
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Mike Gibson heads across the Channel to Le Pigalle, a boutique hotel finding a niche amid the sex shops and strip clubs of an up-and-coming Paris neighbourhood What to eat
They say Pigalle – a neighbourhood between the 9th and the 18th arrondissements in Paris, adjacent to Montmartre and a short stroll from the Moulin Rouge – earned its name from Allied soldiers during World War Two. Being a part of town known for dingy, small streets full of brothels and strip clubs, it became known among the troops as ‘Pig Alley’. The name was adopted and adapted, and the neighbourhood’s vibrant seam of seediness remained – but these days, hip restaurants, bars and boutique hotels are springing up here. Le Pigalle is one of the latter – a hipster’s haven of modern art, in-your-face design and bottled cocktails, with a compact food menu and DJs playing downstairs until the early hours.
Menus here come in English and French, and begin with a manifesto of sorts, proclaiming dishes that “change with the vagaries of nature”. That means vegetables grown locally to Paris, and bread and other ingredients sourced from artisanal suppliers within the city itself. The menu leans towards the snack-y, with homemade pork rillettes and pickles, burrata, sage and rosemary fritters and sweet potato croquettes featuring alongside other bite-sized bits and pieces, and wine is mostly natural (naturally). Most of it can be ordered directly to your room if you don’t want to sit in the restaurant space, as can its range of pre-bottled cocktails – a classic negroni, a manhattan made with a touch of blackberries and coffee liqueur, and
If you’re feeling inspired to plan your own getaway see foodism.co.uk for loads more food and drink destination guides.
PARIS ◆◆ Population: 12.2m ◆◆ Area: 105.4 km² ◆◆ Key neighbourhood: Pigalle
an old fashioned made with rye, maple syrup and walnut essence. This holy trinity can be poured at the bar alongside some other shaken and longer drinks, or you can pour them yourself from the bottles in your room (have some self-discipline handy).
What else? Pigalle is a lively neighbourhood all night, and the hotel’s restaurant becomes a hangout for young creatives after dark, with local DJs spinning beats and drawing in small crowds. Two great little cocktail bars, Lulu White and the aptly named Dirty Dick, are right opposite, while brasserie Le Pantruche is highly-thought-of, and you can eat very well at the very cool Maison Lautrec, too. f 9 Rue Frochot, 75009 Paris, France; lepigalle.paris
Head to Pigalle to explore an intriguing side to Paris – instead of the usual tourist-packed attractions you’ll find cool cocktail bars and buzzing restaurants.
Photograph [bedroom] Benoit Linero
What’s the draw?
SUMMER: SORTED Norway’s favourite cheese brand Jarlsberg® has partnered up with some amazing brands to put together a cracking hamper, and it could be yours this summer
HERE ARE SOME foods just made to be paired, and the smooth, rich and delicate taste of classic Norwegian cheese Jarlsberg® definitely falls into that category. Whether it’s the bite and crunch of crispbread, or the surprising combination of cheese and gin, Jarlsberg® is ripe for experimentation – its characteristically subtle, nutty and slightly sweet taste make it a beautiful partner for Collagin, for example – the only gin infused with pure collagen – whose vanilla notes, creamy mouthfeel and liquorice finish truly bring the best out of this unique cheese. Jarlsberg® is a favourite among consumers and chefs alike for a reason: made to a top-secret recipe since 1956, and since then it’s added modern technology to a historic cheesemaking process. Nowadays, it’s available in supermarkets around the UK and the
world, in small wedges or giant wheels, cut from the wheel or au naturel. And the recipe hasn’t changed because the original was an instant classic. If all that’s piqued your interest (and your appetite), we’ve got great news for you: we’re offering three lucky winners a hamper each filled with Jarlsberg® and all you need to pair it with. The hamper – worth more than £200 – includes a bottle of Collagin, a 10kg Wheel of Jarlsberg® Cheese, Peter’s Yard crispbreads, a Jarlsberg® cheese board, a Cheese Slice, a cheese knife and a cool bag to hold it all, plus an umbrella, tea towel, key ring, and pen thrown in to boot. See right for details of how to enter, and good luck. ● For summer gin-pairing recipe inspiration, go to jarlsberg.com/uk/recipes. Follow the brand on social media at @jarlsbergcheese on Facebook or @no1Jarlsberg on Twitter
WIN HOW TO ENTER
Want to win one of three summer hampers from Jarlsberg®? Of course you do. All you need to to is head online and answer a simple question. Read full T&Cs and enter at fdsm.co/jarlsberg
RULE OF CLAW Richard H Turner makes the most of a stopover in Bangkok, squeezing an epic, crab-heavy street-food tour into his short time in the city. Crustaceans, beware…
T’S EARLY EVENING and I’m wandering around the Suan Lum night bazaar when a vividly coloured jar on a busy stall catches my eye. The jar turns out to contain fermented crab, a peculiar concoction I’ve heard of but never had the pleasure of eating – it’s exactly the sort of thing I keep coming back to Thailand for. I sample a little of the crab and it meets all my expectations; sweet and sour and mildly funky, but it really comes alive when paired with a green papaya salad. I love Thailand and I adore Bangkok. This is one of my favourite places in the world, and with few exceptions the street food here is so often better than anything you’ll find in restaurants. It’s always possible to discover new flavours, ingredients and food combinations, and I’ll try anything new to me (within reason). Not so unusual for a chef perhaps, but the knowledge that tasting new things exercises and extends the life of my taste buds galvanises my resolve. This particular trip is just a quick stopover, so it’s straight into the action. After an inevitably arduous flight, a quick snack of fermented pork ribs at my vintage-chic hotel sustains me, and I set off on my search. From Suan Lum, and that crab, I move to a very cool riverside joint called Err in Banglamphu. After a swift beer and a few
Photograph by Paul Winch-Furness
FISH GUTS CURRY IS SPICY, FUNKY AND MORE THAN A LITTLE CHALLENGING
snacks, I take a quick tuk tuk ride to R&L seafood in Chinatown. Here I have more crab, this time in a curry with egg, and some excellent grilled squid with morning glory and steamed rice. The seafood is sublime, and there’s also a curried scallop dish that I’ve heard is superb – one for next time, for I am but one man with but one stomach. On the opposite side of the water to Chinatown is another hip place on the river called The Never Ending Summer. Here, in an arty warehouse setting, chefs cook throwback dishes from their childhoods; interesting old Thai recipes that include a splendid watermelon and dried shrimp dish. Next up is a 15-minute tuk tuk ride west to Krua Apsorn, part of a group and an eatery favoured by the local Thais. I can heartily recommend the lotus root yellow curry and the crab omelette – yes, I’m gonna look like a crab by the end of this, but it’ll be worth it. The Silom district is next on my list and since the ethic of ‘nose-to-tail’ eating is close to my heart, 100 Mahaseth is a must-try. The cuisine is Isaan style – imagine a northern Thai St John – and it’s pretty bloody decent. I have the bone marrow, of course, topped with perilla seeds (a nutty and minty liquorice flavour), spring onions and lemongrass. It’s followed by cassia-curried oxtail flavoured
with fish – a genius move, and one I’ll borrow. Two other temples of northern Thai cooking are Ruen Urai – set in an old Thai house behind The Rose Hotel, not far from the infamous Soi Patpong market – and Som Tam Jay So, where they serve som tam (or jungle salad - oft touted as the best salad in the world): hot and crunchy, savoury and sour. Along the way, I can’t help but stop in at Soi Polo, the fried chicken (a personal favourite) is the best in the world – I promise – and Bo.lan, created by the same people behind Err. Situated in Bangkok’s hippest district (Thong Lor and Ekamai), Bo.lan has some really special Thai food and I order the Bo.lan balance menu and one of chef Dylan Jones’s revered ginger martinis. On the way back to my hotel, I stop off at Baan Ice which serves good and proper southern Thai food. In the spirit of adventure – and on the sage advice of food writer Kay Plunkett-Hogge – I order the gaeng tai pla or fish gut curry, a famous, 200-year-old dish with Indian influences, made from the fermented guts of catfish or snakehead (another fish). It’s spicy, savoury, extremely funky and, not surprisingly, more than a little challenging. Like I said, I’ll try anything – once. It’s something of a relief, then, that the very best food I found in Bangkok on this trip – and an exception to the ‘street-food rules’ rule – was right there in my hotel. The Cabochon’s truly remarkable kitchen knocks out the most spectacular Thai food I’ve eaten outside of a Thai home. Fermented pork sausages that could beat an English sausage into submission, and another mighty crab and egg curry I’ll remember fondly for weeks to come. And in case you’re wondering how one man with but one stomach ate all this in one evening, I’ve got a confession: I didn’t. No one could have pulled that off in one session; this lot took me two separate nights, between which I sandwiched five nights in Laos. Who ever said extending the life of your taste buds was supposed to be easy? f
l al n s! io er nt v te lo At od fo
LIVE DEMOS FROM:
EARLY BIRD OFFERS AVAILABLE
Adults £26 | Children £13 | Family of four £69 Quote code: GOF027 at www.goorganicfestival.co.uk
THEO RANDALL – CELEBRITY CHEF
Join us for a fabulous weekend of organic food & drink, music, celebrities, 100+ stalls and family entertainment – set in the heart of London
FOOD & DRINK STALLS
EXTENSIVE MAIN STAGE LINE-UP INCLUDING:
GELF ALDERSON – RIVER COTTAGE
EMILY WATKINS – GREAT BRITISH MENU
– GREAT BRITISH BAKE OFF
ORGANIC BEER FESTIVAL
– HOSTED BY STROUD BREWERY
100+ Stalls | Main Stage | Organic Food & Drink Natural Talks | Organic Kitchen | Beer Festival hosted by Stroud Brewery | Organic Marketplace Children’s Entertainment | Bug Hunts | Free Fair Rides Children’s Crafts | Treasure Hunts | Circus Entertainers…
...and so much more fun for the whole family on 8-9 September! Sponsors
ORGANIC KITCHEN DEMOS
Organic. Feed Your Happy campaign financed with aid from the European Union. For more information visit feedyourhappy.co.uk.
For more information visit www.goorganicfestival.co.uk
READY, SET, GO It’s nearly time for GO! Organic, a brand-new festival celebrating all that’s sustainable, organic and healthy, and we think you’ll like what’s in store…
WEEKEND OF FOOD, music and entertainment for the whole family, with an organic, sustainable edge? Sounds like a great idea, and the people behind GO! Organic Festival thought so too, which is why this September sees the inaugural event come to Battersea Park with a host of chefs and producers in tow. The spotlight on organic, sustainable produce is unwavering (and rightly so), but it’s still an ongoing conversation, and that’s why the festival is so important: whether you’re already fully on board with the organic movement, or you’re keen to learn how to further embrace a sustainable lifestyle, you’ll find loads to inspire at the two-day event, from live cookery demonstrations to engaging
talks and producers showcasing organic food, drink, textiles and beauty products. Theo Randall is one of the big-name chefs to have signed up to give a cookery demo, as well as Asian cookery expert Angela Malik and eco restaurateur Arthur Potts-Dawson, while over in the Natural Talks Theatre, Jonathan Dimbleby will share the story of how and why he chose to embrace an organic lifestyle. Other big names to hit the stage include environmental campaigner Natalie Fee, who founded City to Sea, a non-profit organisation helping to combat plastic pollution. In keeping with the festival spirit, there will also be a celebration of organic beer in association with Stoud Brewery, featuring more than 40 of the best organic brews from UK organic breweries, from refreshing IPAs
to rich, malty stouts. For younger festivalgoers, there’s set to be a children’s farm and activities including bug hunts – a pretty fun way to kick-start an organic lifestyle. f
THE KEY INFO GO! Organic takes place over the weekend of 8-9 September at the Evolution Centre in Battersea Park. Early bird tickets purchased online start from £26 for adults, £13 for children, or £69 for a family of four. For more information about the festival, visit goorganicfestival.co.uk
Our pick of London’s food and drink industry news for summer
WE’RE WINNERS! The world of food writing and broadcasting is a dynamic, varied and interesting one, and that’s exactly what the Guild of Food Writers celebrates with its annual awards. Held at Holland Park Opera in June, the GFWs paid tribute to the cream of the industry, which,
we’re delighted to say, included foodism. Editor Jon Hawkins and deputy editor Mike Gibson [pictured above] picked up the Campaigning and Investigative Food Work Award for foodism’s sustainability special issue. Other winners included broadcaster Dan Saladino, and writers Anna Jones, Meera Sodha and Tim Hayward.
Want to hear the recipe for something delicious? Take the finest, hand-harvested bacchus grapes, grown in the lime-rich chalk soils of the Kit’s Coty vineyard in Kent; whole-bunch-press them; then allow them to ferment naturally in thirdand fourth-use French oak barrels for nine months, and you’ll get a sophisticated wine that’s bursting with tropical fruit flavour and smoothness from the oak. Simple. But if that sounds like a bit too much effort, you’re in luck, because that’s exactly how Chapel Down makes its alreadyaward-winning latest release, the Kit’s Coty Bacchus 2016. £25; chapeldown.com
FEST LAID PLANS
Photograph by [Guild of Food Writers] Miles Willis
If the news above didn’t tip you off, we rather like sustainable food in all its forms. And when those forms are organic, delicious and Scottish – all the better. That’s why we’re excited about a new festival that takes place in Dumfries next year, headed up by food supremo Melissa Hemsley [right] in an East Ayrshire estate belonging to HRH Prince Charles. Why are we talking about this now? Well, this year there’s going to be a sneak preview of what’s to come as Hemsley will be holding an Eat Happy Summer Supper at Dumfries House in Ayrshire, inspired by her latest book Eat Happy, to celebrate producing and eating wholesome food grown to organic principles. Who could be mad at that? princes-foundation.org
BARE GRILLS Meatopia, despite the name, is about way more than just meat. First, there’s loads of delicious grub for both veggies and vegans. Then there’s Craftopia, dedicated to brilliant craft beer (this year including Pistonhead, Fourpure and more) and curated by Melissa Cole from the British Guild of Beer Writers. And then there’s the music line up, which ranges from The Cuban Brothers all the way through to Chicago acid house extraordinaire DJ Pierre, Loose Joints (Groove Armada’s Tom Findlay) and, erm, DJ Tofu. 31 August-2 September, Tobacco Docks. meatopia.co.uk
STREET UP Street parties are one of the best things about summer in London, and when those parties include £5 taster dishes from some of the city’s most exciting restaurants they’re even better. Enter Carnaby Street Eat on 11 August, which is back with a bigger and more delicious lineup than ever before. That means you could be scoffing antipasti and slurping slushies from Stevie Parle’s Pastaio, getting your chops around Korean fried chicken from Jinjuu and loads, loads more. Basically, head there on your Saturday afternoon and you won’t need to eat for the rest of the weekend. carnaby.co.uk
Photograph by [Borough Wines & Beers] Kevin Murphy
What makes Borough Wines & Beers so great? Its handpicked range of, well, wines and beers, all lovingly chosen by the team, as well as its pioneering, environmentally friendly wine and beer refill system. But now there’s even more reason to love the London stalwart: it’s launched its own range of exclusive bottlings, bespoke blends and limited-edition wines, Maison 54, with Master of Wine Liam Steevenson. The first two releases are a sauvignon blanc and chenin blanc pét nat, and an aromatic Corsican vermentino that would go down a treat with light summer dishes. If these debuts are anything to go by, we can’t wait for the autumn release. boroughwines.co.uk
SPIRIT OF LONDON Old Tom gins are under the microscope this month, plus flavoured tonic waters and sauvignon blanc PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARRISON
Tom’s the word
If the mention of gin draws to mind a peppery, dry-as-a-bone flavour, bursting with juniper and coriander seeds, it’s with good reason – London Dry, perfected in the capital, has long been the predominant style of gin. But the historic Old Tom style is on the up; sweeter than London Dry but drier than the old Dutch-style genever and richly spiced and flavoured, it gets its name from the sign hung outside London drinking dens in the 18th
century – a black cat – which told passers-by they were open for business and the gin was flowing. As well as tasting great when mixed with tonic water, it’s also the traditional base for tom collins and martinez cocktails. 1 LANGLEYS OLD TOM GIN, Bishops Stortford, Hertfordshire, UK. An Old Tom made using eight botanicals according to a recipe that dates back to 1891. 40%, 70cl; £25.84, masterofmalt.com
2 HERNÖ OLD TOM GIN, Härnösand, Sweden. This Old Tom – made with meadowsweet and a touch of honey to sweeten it – brings serious pedigree: it’s claimed the title of World’s Best Gin at the World Gin Awards for the last two years. 43%, 50cl; £34.45, 31dover.com 3 JENSEN’S OLD TOM GIN, Bermondsey, London, UK. Made to a recipe found in a historic bartender’s manual by the London distiller, this Old Tom is unsweeted. 43%, 70cl; £26.55, thewhiskyexchange.com 4 CITY OF LONDON DISTILLERY OLD TOM GIN, Blackfriars, London, UK. A classic Old Tom from the first distillery set up in the City of London for more than 200 years. Lightly sweetened, with warm spice and citrus. 43.3%, 70cl; £32, cityoflondondistillery.com 5 HAYMAN’S OLD TOM GIN, Balham, London, UK. One of five gins from Hayman’s, which has recently set up a new distillery in leafy Balham. 41.4%, 70cl; £27, ocado.com 6 CITADELLE NO MISTAKE OLD TOM GIN, Charente, France. Made by a gin maker in cognac heartland, Citadelle has a range of gins known for big and unconventional flavours. This Old Tom is barrel aged. 46%, 70cl, £48.55, thewhiskyexchange.com
Photograph by ###
M ATUR ED BY THE SE A ... Aged for up to 15 months, Coastal is a rich, savoury cheddar with sweet top notes and a characteristic crunch, the result of calcium lactate crystals which form naturally as it matures.
Coastal Cheddar is available from independent cheese shops, delicatessens and on-line at www.fordfarm.com
Just the tonic
While tonic water’s known for its bittersweet taste – which usually comes from a mixture of quinine, lemon and sugar – more and more tonic brands are putting out sweeter, flavoured versions to match the vast range of gins on the market. Try these on for size. 1 MERCHANT’S HEART PINK PEPPERCORN TONIC, Uxbridge, London, UK. Merchant’s Heart’s range of ‘spirit enhancers’ are also made to pair with darker spirits. This one, though, is a classic tonic for gin. 200ml; £1.35, ocado.com
2 DOUBLE DUTCH CUCUMBER & WATERMELON TONIC, Marylebone, London, UK. A rich and refreshing flavoured tonic – perfect for a summer sip. 200ml; £1.69, ocado.com 3 FEVER-TREE CUCUMBER TONIC WATER, London, UK. A crisp cucumber-flavoured tonic from the tonic-water kings’ new Refreshingly Light range. 500ml; £1.69, waitrose.com 4 SEKFORDE MIXER FOR GIN WITH A HINT OF RASPBERRY, Soho, London, UK. Low in calories and big in flavour. 200ml; £1.45, 31dover.com
1 Photograph by ###
TRY IT YOURSELF: If you want to expand your wine knowledge, get down to the foodism Beginners’ Guide to Grapes series, in association with Berry Bros & Rudd. The tutored tasting events explore the characteristics of eight particular grapes – how and where they’re grown, and how they’re expressed in different parts of the world, with a drinks reception and a tutored tasting session. The last two events run on 7 and 8 August and cost £65. To find out more and to book, go to bbr.com/foodism
1 2 3 4
Sauvignon blanc A classic French grape known for its acidity and green-apple flavours, sauvignon blanc has flourished in Bordeaux and the Loire Valley, as well as New Zealand. In the US, it’s often called fumé blanc.
2 DOG POINT SAUVIGNON BLANC 2017, Marlborough, New Zealand. If there’s one
3 SIDEBAR SAUVIGNON BLANC 2015, Sonoma County, California, USA. Aged on the lees, this is a sauvignon with an uncommonly rich texture. 13%, 75cl; £20 4 WATERFORD ELGIN SAUVIGNON BLANC 2015, Stellenbosch, South Africa. A fresh wine with minerality thanks to the chalky soil it’s grown in. 13%, 75cl; £16.25 All available at bbr.com
Photograph by ###
1 RAPHAEL MIDOIR SAUVIGNON DE TOURAINE 2016, Touraine, Loire Valley, France. A classic Loire sauvignon – crisp, refreshing and full of gooseberry and citrus notes. 12%, 75cl; £11.95
place outside of France that could be said to have perfected sauvignon blanc, it’s Marlborough. This one’s organic, too. 12.5%, 75cl; £17.95
BOX OF TRICKS: Craft Gin Club’s monthly box for July contains Osmoz Citrus gin, St. Germain elderflower liqueur and more
JOIN THE CLUB Gin lovers of London, listen up: every month, Craft Gin Club selects one of the world’s finest small-batch gins and sends it direct to your door – here’s how to get involved
ISCOVERING GREAT GIN takes a lot of hard work. And as much as you’d probably like to travel the world looking for the very best, you probably also realise that it’d take a lot of time, travelling and – not least – hard-earned cash. Luckily, when you’re a Craft Gin Club member, you don’t have to go anywhere to get hold of great gin: the team tastes more than 600 different gins from six continents around the world each year, and from those 600, they select just 12 bottles, sending them direct to your door to try. Sound good? It is: Craft Gin Club has received a five-star rating from more than 40,000 members, helping make it the UK’s biggest and best-loved
subscription for gin lovers. From classic London Drys to spiced, citrus or floral gins, each monthly box contains a new surprise to add to your collection, expanding your knowledge of great gin each and every month. But that’s not all that comes in the box. Alongside your full-sized bottle of craft gin, you’ll receive a carefully selected range of paired tonics and mixers, plus delicious snacks and a glossy club magazine full of gin news, features and cocktail ideas – all for just £40. We’ll raise a glass to that. ● For more information, and to become a member today, head to
GET 30% OFF Want to kickstart your gin adventure today? Well you’re in luck, because we’ve teamed up with Craft Gin Club to offer foodism readers the opportunity to save 30% on their first subscription box. As well as a full-sized bottle of small-batch gin selected by the experts at Craft Gin Club, you’ll receive a selection of paired tonic and mixers, plus snacks to have with your tipples, too. Sound good? All you need to do to redeem the introductory offer is head over to craftginclub.co.uk/foodism, using the code FOODISM30 at the checkout.
Intricately realised, inside and out
Award-winning gin from the Silent Pool in Surrey Now available in Waitrose, Majestic, 31dover.com and UK Duty Free silentpooldistillers.com
THE SELECTOR Yep, we’re back with your directory of what to eat and where in late summer. We’ve London’s oldest haunts and the best pizzas in town, as well as regional African restaurants and ice cream hotspots, too
Photograph by [ice cream] Giampaolo Trojani
OMETIMES, INSTEAD OF incessantly chasing the next big thing, trend or venue, it’s important to look back – if anything’s testament to a place ‘getting it right’, it’s longevity, right? Enter: London’s oldest bars and restaurants, which between them have centuries of heritage, and continue to impress
with their food, drink and – perhaps most pertinently – their atmosphere. Once you’ve finished exploring the city’s digestible history, look further afield to the best London restaurants serving food from all over Africa, and then pick up a slice of something more familiar in the form of one of the best pizzas in town. Still hungry? Better grab an ice-cream as well, then…
THE SELECTOR, SPONSORED BY OXLEY GIN Created using a patented cold-distillation still, Oxley is a super-premum, innovative, vibrant and smooth-tasting gin. The expert team behind the spirit dedicated eight long years and 38 recipes to perfecting the process of making Oxley gin in a vacuum still below freezing point – and the results are absolutely worth it. This unique, finely
honed process enables the distillers to use fresh-frozen citrus peels, harnessing the true flavour of 14 botanicals that you can taste in each and every sip. And how does that happen? Distilling without heat results in a flavour bursting with more fresh fruit, vibrant citrus, herbal and floral flavours than traditional distillation methods.
1 Yard Sale Clapton, Finsbury Park, Walthamstow, Leytonstone
What started with an oven in founder Johnnie Tate’s back yard in Clapton has since become a London pizza staple. There are currently four Yard Sale pizza outlets, with a fifth set to open in Fulham this year. Inventive names like Cheesus Walks and Harlamb Shake are certainly memorable, but it’s the quality of the pizza that will keep you coming back. yardsalepizza.com
ALL BASES COVERED The popularity of pizza in London isn’t news, but what’s ever-evolving is the variety of places where you can pick up the perfect slice. Here’s some of the city’s finest BEST OF THE REST 2 400 Rabbits
4 Pizza Union
Crystal Palace and Nunhead
Spitalfields, King’s Cross, Aldgate and Dalston
There aren’t many better combos than pizza and beer, and there aren’t many better places to get your fill of both than 400 Rabbits. Named after the 400 rabbit gods birthed out of a love affair between the goddess of alcohol and the god of fermentation in Aztec folklore, expect sublime sourdough pizza and craft beer at both the Crystal Palace and Nunhead sites.
Despite all its fancy (pepper) bells and whistles, pizza is still intended to be a fast, cheap food, but just because something is fast and cheap, doesn’t mean it has to taste like it. Pizza Union proves that by providing super-fast pizzas that still taste super great, and its (equally great) margherita will only set you back £3.95…
3 Baz + Fred
Flat Iron Square, 68 Union Street, SE1 1TD
19 Berkeley Street, W1J 8ED
What sets Baz + Fred apart from the crowd is the Chadwick ovens it uses. Though they look like something out of the future, the flying saucer-esque ovens can replicate the scorching temperatures of a traditional brick pizza oven and cook an entire pizza in around three minutes. The result? A classic slice that’s light on faff and heavy on flavour.
OK, so we know Bocconcino isn’t technically a pizza joint but hear us out, because this Mayfair stalwart seriously knows what it’s doing. The pizzaiolos cook the ’zas from scratch in a wood-fired oven, whipping up combinations like the pizza bocconcino, with stracchino and mozarella cheeses, fresh tomatoes and parma ham.
020 7499 4510; bocconcinorestaurant.co.uk
BEST OF THE REST 2
4 Ethiopian Flavours
1 St James’s Market, St James’s, SW1Y 4AH
Green Zone, Borough Market, London Bridge, SE1 9AA
Ikoyi transports traditional Nigerian cooking to modern London’s dining scene. Chicken gizzards, plantain and toast, and cow skin sandwich are unfamiliar enough to require an adventurous palate, but those who dare will be richly rewarded. With a bar menu developed with Three Sheets, this is West African-influencd dining on the edge.
Chock-full of pulses, vegetables and heady berbere spice, Ethiopian cooking is aptly described as ‘hearty’. Flavours are deep and warming and dishes are largely vegetarian – we love the spongy, crepe-like injera, made with fermented teff flour, which more than earns its keep as a plate, a wrap and a delicious part of your meal.
020 3583 4660; ikoyilondon.com
3 Zoe’s Ghana Kitchen
5 Lemlem Kitchen
The Institute of Light, Arch 376, 10 Helmsley Pl, E8 3SB
13-23 Westgate Street, E8 3RL
Bringing a modern twist to Ghanaian cooking, chef Zoe Adjonyoh is a key player when it comes to putting West African food on the map. Get your laughing gear around the likes of chicken fried in jollof spice mix, and iced kenkey milkshakes made with fermented maize. Check out Sankofah Sundays, with a barbecue, DJs and cocktails on the roof terrace.
You probably wouldn’t expect it, but Asmara, the Eritrean capital, was once occupied by Italy – with the result that its food combines East African and Italian influences. To try this curious cuisine, head to Netil Market’s Lemlem Kitchen, where Asmara-born chef Makda reimagines the dishes of her hometown with afro-tacos and shiro fries.
Photograph by [Pizza Union] Charlie McKay; [Bocconcino] Jade Nina Sarkhel; [Ghana kitchen] Camille Mack
MOTHER AFRICA From home-style to fine dining, it’s never been easier to get delicious, creative food from all over Africa in London. Check these out first 1 Kudu 119 Queen’s Rd, Peckham, SE15 2EZ
Take a former chicken shop; add foodie power couple Patrick Williams (ex The Manor) and Amy Corbin (daughter of Chris Corbin of Corbin and King); throw in some elegant interior design, and you get Kudu, which serves up British produce with a South African inflection – think braai’d lamb neck with smoked yoghurt, and clam potjie pot. kudu-restaurant.com
We dedicated 8 years and 38 recipes to perfect the process of making Oxley gin in a vacuum still, below freezing point.
Our unique process enables us to use fresh-frozen citrus peels, and to harness the true flavour of our 14 botanicals, which you can taste in each and every sip.
Distilling without heat results in a flavour boasting more fresh fruit, vibrant citrus, herbal and floral flavours than in a traditional distillation process.
Feeling the heat? Don’t just settle for any old ice cream – seek out some of London’s coolest serves this summer
1 Ruby Violet 118 Fortress Road, NW5 2HL & 3 Wharf Road, N1C 4BZ
Julie Fisher’s career as an ‘icecreamist’ started in 2011 with a market stall in Tufnell Park. Six years on, she has two permanent sites and more than 150 flavours under her belt. Ice creams on offer change according to the site and the seasons, but previous flavours include white chocolate and cardamom, and seville orange marmalade ripple. 020 7609 0444; rubyviolet.co.uk
Created using a Patented Cold Distillation Still, Oxley is an innovative, vibrant and smooth tasting gin.
BEST OF THE REST 2 Nonnas
Broadway Market, Church Street Market, Kerb
130 Wardour Street, W1F 8ZN
This family-run ice-creamery takes traditional Italian gelato-making methods and churns in seasonal British produce. Like the family that run it, flavours represent a fusion of British and Italian heritage, ranging from Kentish cobnut to Amalfi lemon and rosemary. If you’re not satisfied with just a scoop, you can take home a tub for all your emergency gelato needs.
Is your dairy-free lifestyle getting in the way of your ice cream needs? Fear not – Yorica has produced an alternative that’s free from all animal products, nuts and gluten. With ethics at the heart of the business, the emphasis is on sustainability: packaging is biodegradable and suppliers are environmentally friendly, bringing new meaning to ‘feel-good food’.
020 7434 4370; yorica.com
3 Mamasons Dirty Ice Cream
5 Soft Serve Society
91 Kentish Town Road, NW1 8NY
Boxpark, Shoreditch and Market Hall, Fulham
Mamasons’ offering becomes a whole lot more appetising when you find out that ‘dirty ice cream’ is simply a term for the stuff that’s made and sold by hawkers on the streets of Manila. Black coconut and ube (purple yam) are listed on the menu alongside the famous ‘bilog’ – an ice cream-filled Filipino milk bun. A second site opens in Chinatown soon.
If the sound of the ice cream van used to prompt you to search urgently for stray coins as a kid, then Soft Serve Society is for you. Find its team pulling silky-smooth swirls of soft-serve in weekly changing flavours. Word on the street is that the charcoal and coconut in a jet black waffle cone, topped with a giant toasted marshmallow, is a must-try.
Photograph by [Soft Serve Society] Giampaolo Trojani
1 Simpson’s in the Strand 100 Strand, WC2R 0EW
Simpson’s in the Strand – originally a chess club called The Grand Cigar Divan that opened in 1828 – is a London institution of serious grandeur. In its sumptuous dining room, you can chomp your way through signature dishes like pan-seared duck breast with parsnip and pear or smoked haddock and salmon pie, while a trip upstairs takes you to the art deco-style Knight’s Bar. 020 7420 2111; simpsonsinthestrand.co.uk
THE OLD GUARD Having stood firm for decades, and in some cases centuries, it’s safe to say London’s oldest haunts are worth a visit
BEST OF THE REST 2
4 Gordon’s Wine Bar
55 Jermyn Street, SW1Y 6LX
47 Villiers Street, WC2N 6NJ
Want to talk about heritage? How about Wiltons oyster bar, which has been serving up crustacea and bevvies for 276 years. It’s an absolute classic: a slice of old-school London preserved in aspic, serving the finest drinks and British grub to St James’s most wellheeled punters. A greater bastion of British dining you may never find anywhere else.
If you’ve ever walked to the Strand from Embankment tube station after 6pm, you’ll have heard the rumble of mirth-filled conservation that emanates from the terrace outside Gordon’s Wine Bar. That chat has been going ever since it opened in 1890, and is (as you might expect) lubricated by the 60plus wines available inside.
020 7629 9955; wiltons.co.uk
020 7930 1408; gordonswinebar.com
3 American Bar
5 The Jamaica Wine House
100 Strand, WC2R 0EZ
St Michael’s Alley, EC3V 9DS
The American Bar at the Savoy isn’t just the longest-surviving cocktail bar in London – according to the World’s 50 Best it’s also the best bar on the planet. The bar’s menu currently takes inspiration from 20 iconic Terry O’Neill photos that have adorned its walls since the 1980s. Think a gin, fig Campari and vermouth serve inspired by Isabella Rossellini.
When this City boozer opened in an alley near Monument in 1652 it became London’s first coffee house, frequented by the likes of Samuel Pepys. Since then, it’s been visited by tons of other peeps (sorry), not least the several thousand tourists and city workers who come in their hordes for jars of ale and glasses of wine in its wood-panelled surrounds.
020 7836 4343; fairmont.com/savoy
020 7929 6972; jamaicawinehouse.co.uk
Photograph by [Simpsons] james Bedford; [Wiltons] Christopher Scholey
HIT THE STREETS Put on your stretchiest pants, because Carnaby's alfresco food festival is back for a fifth year in a row, and this time Street Eat is bigger and better than ever before
AKE ONE OF London's funkiest neighbourhoods, add a splash of sunshine and throw in some pretty damn tasty food and drink, and what do you get? Carnaby Street Eat, of course. The famed street-food festival is back for it's fifth and biggest year, featuring dishes from more than 30 different Carnaby food vendors, as well as live music acts throughout the day. Taking place in the height of summer, Carnaby Street Eat kicks off on Saturday 11 August from 12pm and will have you munching, dancing and sipping your way all the way through to 6pm. At this year's festival you can expect to sample dishes from the likes of seafood specialists Claw, soul-soothing plates from Asma Khan's Indian restaurant Darjeeling Express or prosecco slushies and pasta dishes from Stevie Parle's latest venture Pastaio. And don't forget the 1940s-themed
cocktails and live music at Cahoots Of course, you can indulge your sweet tooth at the event, too. So when you're full to the brim with savoury snacks, swing by Bread Ahead for one of the bakery's famous doughnuts or check out Crumbs and Dollies for endless cupcakes and tasty rainbow bakes. Oh, and did we mention that most of the signature dishes and drinks from all of Carnaby Street Eat's traders will be priced around £5 each? We'll take them all. So what are you waiting for? It's time to load up with great grub and then settle down for the West End’s biggest picnic table. This August, we have some serious feasting to do and everyone in London is invited. Come hungry. ●
WIN HOW TO WIN To celebrate the return of Carnaby Street Eat, the festival is giving one lucky Foodism reader and a friend the chance to win the ultimate food-fuelled experience. The prize includes dinner and drinks for two at a restaurant of your choice, one night's stay with breakfast included at The Courthouse Hotel, plus lunch for two in Carnaby. It's easy to enter, the hard bit is narrowing down which friend to make the most of this fantastic prize with. For your chance to win, simply head to fdsm.co/ carnaby-street-eat.
Carnaby Street Eat runs from 12-6pm on Saturday 11 August. For more information visit carnaby.co.uk/street-eat or follow @CarnabyLondon on social media.
THE DRINKS OF SUMMER Southern Comfort is partnering up with a few of our favourite festivals for a summer of Southern Sounds, bringing the vibrant spirit of New Orleans to the UK
ICTURE THE SCENE: you’re in a sunsoaked field; a guitarist is lilting slow blues through the air; and you’re cooling down with a drink that brings together a blend of sweet spice and fruit notes with American whiskey. If your curiosity (and your thirst) is piqued, we’ve got good news: you don’t have to go far to make this enviable scene a reality. That’s because this summer Southern Comfort, the liqueur with whiskey created in New Orleans, is partnering with some of the UK’s best Americana music and food festivals to bring you a taste of the American Deep South and the Spirit of New Orleans. Intrigued? You should be. Read on to find out where you can enjoy...
Wingfest 4-5 AUGUST, QUEEN ELIZABETH OLYMPIC PARK, LONDON
If your idea of heaven is crispy, tangy chicken wings slathered in hot sauce
BLACK & COLA For those who want their Southern Comfort extra bold, try the new Black & Cola, which uses the punchy flavour of the new Southern Comfort Black. Find out exactly where you can enjoy Southern Comfort Black at southerncomfort.com/blacklist
and liberally doused with creamy blue cheese dip, look no further than Wingfest, which pays homage to your favourite finger food. To really reach cloud nine, pair your finger-lickin’ treats with a refreshing Southern Comfort Original, lemonade and fresh lime. wingfest.co.uk
Maldon Smoke & Fire Festival 18-19 AUGUST, MALDON, ESSEX
With a focus on low’n’slow barbecue, this Essex weekender does exactly what it says on the tin. There’ll be live music, a pitmaster challenge, the highly anticipated Essex heats of the UK chilli cook-off, chilli- and hot wing-eating contests and even more Americana fun. Head to the Southern Quarter bar for your favourite serves from Southern Comfort, including the new Southern Comfort Black – best enjoyed with cola. smokeandfirefestival.com
SOUTHERN COMFORT IS TEAMING UP WITH MUSIC AND FOOD FESTIVALS TO CELEBRATE AMERICANA SPIRIT
Meatopia 31 AUGUST-2 SEPTEMBER, TOBACCO DOCK, LONDON
Meatopia is a must for meat lovers – although there’s plenty for veggies and vegans, too. Top chefs from all over the world come to cook over wood at this iconic festival, which celebrates Americana-style eating. Head to the bar and get recommendations for the perfect Southern Comfort cocktail to compliment your dish. meatopia.co.uk
The Long Road 7-9 SEPTEMBER, STANFORD HALL, LEICESTERSHIRE
Not many things scream ‘Americana’
more than a buck ’n’ bull after party, but food like po’ boys, mac’n’cheese and slow-smoked meats might just do it. There’s a massive Deep South-influenced line-up here, so make sure you arrive hungry – and pick up your favourite Southern Comfort cocktail, too. thelongroad.com ● Southern Comfort is available from good bars and retailers and at amazon.co.uk. Follow @SouthernComfortUK on Facebook and Instagram to keep up to date with the latest news.
GOOD TO GO Enjoy your favourite drink on the go this summer. Southern Comfort is now available in a new ready-todrink version – a refreshing blend of Southern Comfort mixed with classic lemonade and lime.
GROW UP: It’s peak courgette season, so if you’re growing them (and you really should, as they’re pretty low maintenance), now’s the time to harvest. Look out for the smaller ones with dark green skin as they’re the most likely to be packed with nutrients.
FLOWER POWER: Courgette flowers aren’t just there to look pretty, they’re edible too. Snap some up if you see them: they’re rarely in shops as they’re so delicate.
GET STUFFED: One of the best ways to cook the flowers is to stuff them with cheese and herbs then deep fry. Hey, it might counterbalance all that fibre and vitamin C they contain, but it’ll taste fantastic…
PhotographTheissen by ### Photograph by Getty/Imagebroker RF/Harald
Now is the courgette’s time to shine, with the summer squash achieving optimum flavour. What makes them truly special, though, are their wispy, edible flowers
UNLOCK TASTE Elevate the taste of a Bramble from the ordinary to the remarkable with the award-winning taste of No.3 Gin. Ripe fresh blackberry and bittersweet grapefruit juice balance perfectly with the juniper, citrus and spice of No.3 for a deliciously indulgent take on a cocktail classic. Unlock a world of taste with No.3 Gin.
UNLOCK TASTE Elevate your Gin & Tonic from the ordinary to the remarkable with the award-winning taste of No.3 Gin. For the perfect serve, garnish with fresh rosemary and pink grapefruit to unlock a refreshing burst of juniper, citrus and gentle spice.
Foodism Magazine - Issue 28 - The Gin Issue