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L O N D O N , O N E B I T E AT A T I M E


ST~GERMAIN ® IS THE WORLD’S FIRST ELDERFLOWER liqueur created in the artisanal French manner from fresh elderf lower blossoms handpicked once a year in the late spring. Add a splash of ST~GERMAIN to your gin & tonic, top up your glass of champagne or try the ST~GERMAIN® Spritz for a delicious apéritif “à la Française.” #stgermain

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ENJOY RESPONSIBLY. SOYEZ RESPONSABLE.

© 2018. ST. GERMAIN AND ITS TRADE DRESS ARE TRADEMARKS.


Tuscan Restaurant

Dinner on the Edge


WORLD-CLASS RESTAURANTS THAT OPEN UP YOUR WORLD Launching this December, Celebrity Edge , is designed to change the way you experience the world – and such an unbelievable ship needs cuisine to match. Onboard you’ll find a staggering choice of 29 restaurants, cafés, bars, and lounges, so you’re sure to discover a new favourite dish or cocktail every day you’re with us. Each offers top culinary talent, with globally-inspired menus crafted by our Michelin-starred chef Cornelius Gallagher. SM

A selection of Edge dining Magic Carpet – enjoy an eclectic, fresh

seafood menu by day. By night, the venue travels to the top of the ship for our al fresco Dinner on the Edge experience.

Fine Cut Steakhouse – an upscale

steakhouse offering premium cuts of meat, incredible views and impeccable service.

Tuscan Restaurant – our Italian-inspired main restaurant, specialising in flavours you’d find in Southern Italian eateries (complimentary for all guests).

Raw on Five – a dramatic raw bar showcasing oysters, crab, lobsters and fresh seafood, plus a menu section paired with vodka and champagne. Luminae – exclusive for our Suite Class

guests. It’s the highest rated restaurant in our fleet, with a new menu daily.

Rooftop Grill – nestled in a corner of the surreal Rooftop Garden and serving up a gourmet BBQ menu.

Chart your course through stylish venues ranging from casual to formal, or inside to al fresco, including four complimentary main restaurants (a first) – each with its own distinctive cuisine and ambiance. Add to this a plethora of innovative speciality restaurants as diverse as the amazing places we sail to, some exclusive to Suite guests or spa lovers travelling in AquaClass®. You can even dine atop a giant cantilevered platform that snakes its way up the side of the ship (yes, we’re serious). Why not join Celebrity Edge in Europe during summer 2019 to expand your culinary horizons in ways that open up your world.

FOR MORE INFORMATION AND TO BOOK: CALL 0800 240 4312 OR VISIT celebritycruises.co.uk 486

Celebrity Cruises Inc.

RCL Cruises Ltd.


FOOD MILES

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Our milk travels just a few miles to our dairy where it is pasteurised, handmade into cheese and lovingly matured by our specialist team.

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Over four generations we have mastered what makes each cheese tick and how to bring out the best flavour. We really do know cheesemaking like the back of our hands.

Discover Our Show-stopping Cheeses at butlerscheeses.co.uk

available in supermarkets & independent delis @ButlersCheese


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foodism uses paper from sustainable sources

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I

’ve just got back from a trip to Puglia in the south of Italy, a region where the food is even better than you’d hope from a place that produces more of that country’s olive oil than anywhere else. I ate primo sale cheese seconds after it had been made; tiny octopus hooked from the nearby ocean; tomatoes grown on cliffs overlooking the sea and stored in a garage over the winter. And don’t get me started on the wine. But the one thing I really wanted to try was a coffee they serve in a small coastal town about 20 miles south of Bari called Polignano a Mare. Known as caffè speciale, it’s made with spoonfuls of thick whipped cream, a glug of amaretto liqueur, espresso and – here’s the killer ingredient – a twist of lemon. So I go to Polignano a Mare, join the queue at Il Super Mago Del Gelo, the speciale’s birthplace (they claim), and take a sip of the brown foamy liquid. It’s… I mean, it’s ok. Horrifically sweet, yes, and I’ve never loved amaretto, but the citrussy notes are quite nice. Worth a 1,000 mile journey, though? Hell no. Thank god for the cheese, tomatoes and octopus, basically. On page 72, Tom Powell travels about half that distance in the opposite direction to drink a thimbleful of harsh-tasting pinkish liquid made on a remote Hebridean island. In almost three years it will have become scotch whisky, but for now it remains a questionable reason to schlep from one end of the British Isles to the other. The story of how this spirit came to be is, I promise you, absolutely worth your time, even if going all the way there to drink it is one for the truly dedicated. f

FOODISM.CO.UK

FRONT COVER: Photography by Ian Dingle

GRAZE 014 THE FOODIST

016 WEAPONS OF CHOICE 021 RECIPES 028 COLUMNS 030 Q&A: ANTONI POROWSKI 034 THE RADAR 036 TASTE OF LONDON 038 FOODISM 100 041 HOP CULTURE

FEAST 052 CARIBBEAN FOOD

058 N  IEVES BARRAGAN MOHACHO 066 HOTEL RESTAURANTS 072 RAASAY WHISKY 078 MIXOLOGY: THE BLIND PIG

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MALIBU PASSION FRUIT MOJITO 2 PARTS MALIBU PASSION FRUIT

1 PART LIME JUICE A TOP WITH SOD GAR U S S N O O P 2 TABLES

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— PART 1 —

GRAZE “THE SHOW ISN’T ABOUT MY COOKERY SKILLS AND SHOWING OFF WHAT I’M CAPABLE OF, IT’S ABOUT DEALING WITH THE EPISODE’S HERO” ANTONI POROWSKI ON HIS ROLE IN NETFLIX’S QUEER EYE, 030

014 THE FOODIST | 016 WEAPONS OF CHOICE 021 RECIPES | 028 COLUMNS | 030 Q&A: ANTONI POROWSKI | 034 THE RADAR 036 TASTE OF LONDON | 038 FOODISM 100 | 041 HOP CULTURE


THE LONDON LARDER

This month: Gran Luchito’s Mexican salsas

What’s the product? Throw down your supermarket picnic dips and turn your back on that sad excuse for a relish you just made, because Gran Luchito’s authentic Mexican salsas are here to transform your chip and dip game for good.

Who makes it?

THE FOODIST

Tottenham Hotspur is the first Premier League club to bank big on food and drink, writes Mike Gibson

I

ONCE WENT ON a trip with a food journalist who told me that he ate beans on toast for dinner once a week to “keep himself grounded”. The point being that, if you’re fortunate enough to eat at some of London’s best restaurants as part of your job, it’s good to check your privilege sometimes. For me, there’s one dish that always resets the clock: the chicken balti pie at Tottenham Hotspur. I’ve had a season ticket for 12 years now – and the recipe’s changed a few times since then – but it’s always been a favourite. But with football’s audience now being more global than it’s ever been, and an everincreasing demand for all-encompassing experiences to go alongside your favourite sport, football clubs are rethinking the way they think about food. My club, in particular, seems to be leading the way. First, Tottenham swooped to sign the Roux family to cook at the H Club, the epicentre of the hospitality offering at its new stadium, which opens its doors from the 2018/19 season. Then it followed that one up with three

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more: veteran chef (and Spurs fan) Chris Galvin, as well as Bryn Williams and Dipna Anand. They’ll each challenge for places to cook on matchdays at the H Club for guests who want more than just to watch the game. With rumours swirling of a cheese room on site, and loads of other food and drink innovations seemingly in the pipeline, the club has since announced a partnership with Beavertown, one of the world’s most acclaimed craft brewers (and a Tottenham resident to boot), to set up a microbrewery in the stadium. Given that the only place near the ground I could find a pint of Gamma Ray before this news was the aptly named Elbow Room in Bruce Grove, I can’t bloody wait. Like the old enemy Arsenal before us, Tottenham will no doubt weather cries of gentrification for its efforts. For me, I quite like the thought of Chris Galvin et al cooking up a storm in the kitchens a stone’s throw from the pitch. I just hope there’ll still be a balti pie for me at Spurs when I need one. f Find out more at tottenhamhotspur.com/hospitality

After a stint of travelling around Mexico, Fergus Chamberlain fell in love with its fresh and fragrant flavours. At the time, finding Mexican food in London was “still harder than finding water in the Mexican desert”, so he decided to bring a slice of it back to England and started selling his salsas at Maltby Street Market back in 2012.

What does it taste like? Gran Luchito means ‘great little fighter’ and that’s exactly what Fergus’ smoky chipotle salsa, with its chunky tomato and lingering spice, is. The tomatillo salsa, on the other hand, is fresh and light and would make a fantastic finishing flourish to fish tacos. If you’re looking for something a little more out there, dip some chips into Luchito’s sweet and funky mango salsa or take a walk on the mild side with a pot of its red pepper salsa, which tastes more like a gazpacho than anything else.

Where can I get it? Look out for Gran Luchito on supermarket shelves or go to gran.luchito.com to shop the range.

f


TOP THREE S UMMER P I C K-ME-UPS

1

BUMBLEZEST

A cry of “Shots!” might not necessarily sound like it might lead to a detox, but if they contain ginger, turmeric, charcoal, cayenne, matcha, or any of that good stuff, it will. Bumblezest’s shots are made of real, identifiable superfoods aimed to revitalise, relieve anxiety and aid digestion. £3.65; planetorganic.com

2

OBRIGADO

Did you know that, in the right circumstances, coconut water can be used in an emergency blood transfusion? No, we don’t have any way to verify that, but what you can’t deny is the magical healing power of Obrigado’s pure coconut water, which is sustainably farmed and produced in Bahia Brazil, and will replenish you if you’ve hit the summer terrace a bit hard (plus it tastes great too). obrigado.com

3

TENZING

Have you always thought that energy drinks were just full of crap? You haven’t tried Tenzing, a lightly sparkling, refreshing energy boost that’s made with six real, unrefined ingredients: unroasted coffee, green tea, rock salt, guarana, beet sugar and lemon juice. The result is a mouthwatering drink that just happens to be made for those who like to get active. Simple. £1.79; hollandandbarrett.com

THE ESCAPIST

YBFs co-founder Lily Vanilli on her move from graphic designer to star baker

M

Y LAST ‘PROPER’ job was in Australia, where I was working as a graphic designer. I was only there for a year, and I ended up working for Tourism Australia. I didn’t have any qualifications and taught myself Photoshop! I was offered a job as an in-house designer for the state of Victoria, so I did everything from billboards to ballot cards. I was calling my friends to find out how to do things – I managed to pull it off and I enjoyed it. It was fun and exciting but I had no interest in working as a graphic designer long term. Cakes are the only thing I’m good at creating – I’m really bad at

drawing and I grew up feeling very unartistic but when it came to baking, something just seemed to really click. I moved back to London in 2008 when the recession was all kicking off and no one was hiring. I was struggling to find work and I knew how to bake, so I decided to sell cakes in order to make money. It was a time when this kind of thing wasn’t that common and I hadn’t seen anyone make a success of it before. Having a business was quite far from my mind – this was before baking had become the zeitgeist and before cupcakes ‘happened’, so I ended

up getting really swept up in all of that. Somehow, baking became the next big thing and my bakery grew really organically. It was never a decision. Ten years later I’m still doing it, and I’m very grateful for that. A few years ago, it got to a point – because I’ve always done a lot of side projects, like the YBF awards and consulting – where I wasn’t really in the bakery and it ran itself beautifully. But I really missed it and it didn’t feel right. At the moment, I’m in the bakery most of the week. When I’m in London, this is my job again and I really like it – I make everything else work around it, and I like having the balance of baking cakes and it offsets my stress perfectly. f lilyvanilli.com

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WEAPONS OF CHOICE Spend less time slicing and dicing, and more time at the grill this summer with this cool kit PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARRISON

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CAR RY ON G R IL L ING UNA GRILL, £110

Photograph by ###

Kiss goodbye to awkwardly carrying your ‘portable’ BBQ to London Fields – the UNA Grill locks together and can be carried by its leather handle. Summer: sorted. selfridges.com

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Photoshop needs doing G R IDDL E M E T HIS ANOLON GRIDDLE PAN, ÂŁ38 This hard anodised pan from cookware experts Anolon is perfect for searing and cooking steaks, veg and everything in between. anolon.co.uk

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PREP’S CO O L PROPER COMPACT ELECTRIC FOOD PROCESSOR, £74.99 A cool, cute and compact piece of kit that’ll slice, dice and, er, rice everything you throw at it. lakeland.co.uk

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Recipes

THE SKY’S THE LIMIT London in the Sky returns to the capital this July, and we’ve got four recipes from its three chefs just for you PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANNIE BROOKS

O

UT OF THIS world; reaching new heights; there are shedloads of clichés you could use to describe the incredible experience of eating food designed by award-winning chefs while sat at a table that’s suspended 100ft in the air. But peel back the rhetoric used to describe the London in the Sky pop-up and you’ve got an experience that is, quite simply, unmissable, whether you’re talking about the food – with menus developed by The Dairy’s Robin Gill, Club Gascon’s Pascal Aussignac and Lee Westcott, formerly of Typing Room –

or the views over London’s skyline. We suspect, though, that you’re probably mostly interested in what you’ll be eating (we certainly are), so we’ve enlisted the pop-up’s iconic chef partners to share some of their recipes, from a starter of applewood-smoked eel to the creamiest, dreamiest chocolate mousse to finish. Whether you’re keeping your feet on the ground or you’re looking forward to a flight this July, each dish is sure to whet your appetite. Give them a try. f London in the Sky takes place 5-15 July. For more information or to book, go to eventsinthesky.co.uk

FOLLOW US @FOODISMUK

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FOODISM RECIPES, IN ASSOCIATION WITH ESTRELLA DAMM Photograph by ###

Enjoy the pure Mediterranean taste of Estrella Damm, the beer of Barcelona. Each and every bottle, can and pint of Estrella Damm has been brewed at origin using the original family recipe and 100% local ingredients since 1876. To this day,

Estrella Damm works with local farmers and processes its malt to the highest standards in its own malthouse, La Moravia. All of this, and more, is done to produce a true taste of the Mediterranean. estrelladamm.com

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Robin Gill’s

EEL, PEAS & BROAD BEANS Pairing rich smoked eel with summer vegetables and piquant picked wild garlic results in a plate that balances indulgence and freshness

ING R E DIE NTS ◆◆ 100g fresh broad beans,

podded

◆◆ 100g fresh peas, podded ◆◆ ½ lemon

◆◆ 10g wild garlic pickle (see

below) with a little of the pickling liquor ◆◆ 50ml olive oil ◆◆ 10g preserved lemon peel, finely diced ◆◆ Garum or fish sauce ◆◆ 120g applewood-smoked eel, diced ◆◆ Mint leaves ◆◆ Bronze fennel ◆◆ Chive flowers ◆◆ Wild rocket

n beans Bright gree e cubes iz -s te bi d an this an e ak of eel m eful elegant plat

For the wild garlic pickle ◆◆ 400g wild garlic stalks,

finely diced

◆◆ 70ml water

◆◆ 70ml white wine vinegar ◆◆ 70g caster sugar

TIME

Preparation ◆◆ 15 mins

Cooking

◆◆ 00 mins

Serves ◆◆ 4-6

T

HE DAIRY, ROBIN Gill’s restaurant on the edge of Clapham Common, has garnered plenty of attention for affordable tasting menus that deliver innovative, delicious food using largely housemade produce, with an emphasis on pickling and fermentation. This dish is indicative of his signature approach.

Method

1 To make the wild garlic pickle, place the wild garlic stalks in a sterilised jar. Add the water, vinegar and sugar to a pan and bring to the

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boil slowly while stirring to dissolve the sugar. Pour the boiling liquor over the wild garlic and seal the jar. 2 Blanch the broad beans in boiling water for 1 minute, then put into a bowl of iced water to keep fresh. 3 Pop the bright green beans out of their thick skins by squeezing gently. If the peas are quite large, blanch them in boiling water for 30 seconds, then refresh in iced water; if they are smaller, leave them raw. 4 Put the broad beans and peas in a metal sieve. Place over a barbecue to warm through and smoke slightly, or

you can warm them gently in a pan in a drizzle of olive oil. 5 Peel the lemon half and remove the segments and the membrane. Cut the lemon flesh into very small pieces. 6 Mix together the pickled wild garlic, lemon, olive oil, preserved lemon peel and garam or fish sauce to taste to create a dressing. 7 Toss through the warm broad beans and peas. Gently mix through the diced eel. 8 Divide the mixture between your dishes, and garnish with mint, bronze fennel, chive flowers and wild rocket. f


Pascal Aussignac’s

SUMMER CASSOULET

A French classic is given a new seasonal spin in this veg-focused cassoulet that’s fragrant with lavender and makes a perfect light lunch

P

ASCAL AUSSIGNAC TOOK the country cooking of Gascony, gave it some modern flourishes – wasabi chantilly, for example – and brought it to London in 1998, when he opened Club Gascon. Within four years, the restaurant won a Michelin star, which it has kept to this day. This summer bean cassoulet demonstrates his take on traditional French cooking.

TIME

Preparation

◆◆ 20 mins

Cooking

◆◆ 30 mins

Serves

◆◆ 6

Method

Photograph by Annie Brooks

1 Drain the beans and blend half with olive oil to make a purée. Season. 2 Fry the other half of the beans until fluffy and light in texture. Season. 3 Blanch the quinoa in boiling water for 20 minutes, dry, and fry them in the same oil as the beans. 4 Blanch the tomatoes to remove the skin and cut them into quarters. Lay them in a little tray and sprinkle them with some icing sugar, salt and thyme. Leave to marinade for a few hours or activate the process in an oven with a little heat to dry them out. 5 Cut the cleaned girolles in two and put them in a casserole dish. Cover with water and cook them for a few minutes before straining the jus into another casserole dish. 6 Add the lavender, olive oil and white balsamic vinegar to the jus. Blend the mix to make a vinaigrette. 7 Pan fry the girolles with olive oil and season them. 8 Blanch the broad beans for a few minutes until they are al dente. 9 Dot the purée onto a plate. Add the girolles and the crispy beans, confit tomato, broad beans and quinoa on top of the purée, and the sauce around plus some rocket cress on top. Finish with a final touch of gladiola petals. f

ING R E DIE NTS ◆◆ 2 tins of cooked plain beans ◆◆ 200g girolle mushrooms

used not Girolles are lad, but sa e only in th ng too, in its dressi depth hy rt ea adding

◆◆ 2 sprigs lavender ◆◆ 2 sprigs thyme

◆◆ 4 large tomatoes ◆◆ Icing sugar

◆◆ 200g olive oil

◆◆ 5ml white balsamic vinegar ◆◆ 20g black quinoa

◆◆ Gladiola flowers (optional) ◆◆ 500g vegetable oil ◆◆ 100g broad beans ◆◆ Rocket cress

◆◆ Black pepper ◆◆ Salt

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Lee Westcott’s

BEEF TARTARE This one’s a bit of a showstopper, so make sure you buy the best beef that you can find

ING R E DIE NTS For the raw diced sirloin ◆◆ 400g dry-aged sirloin

TIME

◆◆ Rapeseed oil

◆◆ Maldon sea salt

Preparation

◆◆ Cracked black pepper

Cooking

For the black garlic ketchup

◆◆ 30 mins ◆◆ 60 mins

Serves ◆◆ 4

◆◆ 1.5 heads of black garlic ◆◆ 500ml water

◆◆ 10g agar agar

◆◆ Soy sauce, to taste

◆◆ Sherry vinegar, to taste ◆◆ Salt, to taste

T

HIS RECIPE, A twist on a classic beef tartare, is definitely one that’s greater than the sum of its parts. Black garlic ketchup and roasted, pickled shiitake mushrooms up the umami, while kohlrabi lends a delicate flavour to accent the raw diced sirloin. It’s a dish that speaks of Westcott’s passion for seasonal cooking and making the most of undervalued vegetables. Hell, we’d make this for the ketchup alone.

Method

1 Cut any fat off the sirloin and dice into small pieces. Place into a bowl, add a touch of rapeseed oil and season to taste with the Maldon salt and cracked black pepper. Mix well. THE BLACK GARLIC KETCHUP

2 Place the water and the garlic skins together into a saucepan and bring to a simmer. Remove from the heat and leave to infuse for 10 minutes. Strain and chill at room temperature. 3 Add the agar agar and mix well

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◆◆ Sugar, to taste

For the roasted and pickled shiitake slices ◆◆ 10 large shiitake

mushrooms, thickly sliced

◆◆ 100ml vegetable oil

◆◆ 150ml white wine vinegar ◆◆ 100g sugar

For the pickled and diced kohlrabi ◆◆ 1 large kohlrabi, peeled,

sliced and diced into small pieces ◆◆ 250ml water ◆◆ 75g sugar ◆◆ 10g salt ◆◆ 2 sprigs of thyme ◆◆ 1 bay leaf ◆◆ 125ml white wine vinegar ◆◆ Mushroom crackers and mushroom powder (see foodism.co.uk for the recipes)

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FOODISM.CO.UK


Photograph by Annie Brooks

with a whisk. Bring to 85°C on the stove while continuously whisking. Pour onto a tray and set in the fridge. 4 Once set, place into a blender with the bulbs of black garlic and blend until smooth. Season to taste with sherry vinegar, sugar and salt. Pass through a fine sieve and chill. THE SHIITAKE SLICES

5 Heat oil in a wide saucepan. Once very hot, roast the shiitake well for roughly 1-2 minutes, until golden brown on both sides. Strain, reserving the oil. Cool at room temperature.

6 Mix the vinegar and sugar in a bowl until the sugar has dissolved. Slightly warm the vinegar and sugar liquor and pour over the roasted mushroom slices. Place into the fridge to chill. THE KOHLRABI

7 Bring all except the kohlrabi to boil in a saucepan. Allow to simmer for 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and pour over the kohlrabi. Now place into the fridge to chill. 8 Assemble the dish, and garnish with mushroom crackers and mushroom powder. f

ackers Mushroom cr y ch un cr e id ov pr the tender contrast to ath sirloin bene

Photograph by ###

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Lee Westcott’s

CHOCOLATE MOUSSE

You might think you know about chocolate mousse, but this indulgent version will make you think again – two types of chocolate and yoghurt sorbet add extra ‘wow’

O

N THE FACE of it, chocolate mousse is a pretty standard dessert, but not when it’s in the hands of Westcott, who honed his craft at the acclaimed Typing Room restaurant in Bethnal Green. The mousse is silky, the crumb is crunchy, the sorbet is smooth and delicate; in short, it’s everything you could want from a pudding. So it’s a good thing we’ve got the recipe, eh?

Method

TIME

Preparation ◆◆ 30 mins

Cooking

◆◆ 60 mins

Serves ◆◆ 4

and pass through a fine sieve. Place into desired containers and then leave to set in the fridge. THE CHOCOLATE CRUMB

4 Mix everything except the butter in a bowl. Slowly add the butter until incorporated evenly. Place onto a baking tray and bake at 160°C for 25 minutes, stirring frequently. Remove from the oven and allow to cool at room temperature.

THE MOUSSE

THE YOGHURT SORBET

1 To make the chocolate mousse, place milk, double cream, sugar and glucose into a saucepan, whisk well and bring to 80°C. 2 Add both the chocolates, bit by bit, while whisking on the heat. 3 Take the pan off the heat and add in the gelatine and salt. Whisk well

5 Place everything into a saucepan except the yoghurt. Whisk well, bring up to 85°C and pass through a fine sieve. Chill down over ice. 6 Once cold, mix well into yoghurt. Churn and freeze the ice cream in an ice cream maker. 7 To make the meringue, place the

egg whites and sugar into a mixer with the whisk attachment and mix on the slowest speed until the mix is well incorporated, white, silky and glossy. 8 Spread this thinly onto greaseproof paper and place onto baking trays and place into the oven at 60°C for 3 hours. 9 Assemble the dish. f

ING R E DIE NTS Chocolate mousse: ◆◆ 250ml milk

◆◆ 250ml double cream ◆◆ 100g sugar

◆◆ 75g glucose

◆◆ 2 leaves bronze leaf

gelatine, bloomed

◆◆ 150g 70% chocolate ◆◆ 100g 40% chocolate ◆◆ Pinch of salt

Chocolate crumb: ◆◆ 60g sugar

◆◆ 60g ground almonds ◆◆ 35g plain flour

◆◆ 25g cocoa powder

◆◆ 25g 70% chocolate –

roughly chopped

◆◆ 25g melted butter ◆◆ Pinch of salt

Yoghurt Sorbet: ◆◆ 150ml milk

◆◆ 60g double cream ◆◆ 50g glucose

is This mousse but y, ad re al c fantasti ies rr be h es add a few fr ant sl er m m su for a

◆◆ 25g milk powder

◆◆ 500g natural Greek yoghurt

Meringue ◆◆ 50g egg whites ◆◆ 100g sugar

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Photograph Photograph by Annieby Brooks ###

◆◆ 140g sugar


THE URBAN GARDENER

Petersham Nurseries’ Amanda Brame tells us how to make the most of a small city garden

ZERO TO HERO Sustainable food evangelist, writer and chef Tom Hunt tells you how to go waste-free in your own home

W

Step 1: Create your own packaging kit Fruit and vegetables are washable and

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often come in their own compostable wrapping designed by nature. However, many places choose to display fruit and vegetables in plastic trays, cling wrapped. Hardy vegetables like potatoes and carrots are overfilled into non-recyclable bags and other foods are boxed in oversized plastic containers printed with picturesque farms that bear no connection to the produce. Create your own packaging kit to take with you next time you go shopping – light and practical, it will save you unnecessary waste.

You will need: ◆◆ Two or three tote bags for vegetables and

other groceries ◆◆ Two or three tubs or jars for wet ingredients

like olives, butter and soft cheese ◆◆ Two pieces of cheese cloth or canvas ◆◆ Two egg boxes

Tip: When you do need to buy packaged ingredients, look for products packaged in containers that are reusable! f Tom Hunt is a chef, sustainability campaigner and patron of the charity Plan Zheroes. Find out more about Tom on Instagram at @tomsfeast or at tomsfeast.com

If you love adding berries to your breakfast, you’ll be pleased to know they’re easy enough to grow. Blueberries, raspberries and strawberries all require a suitable size pot at least 30/40cm deep, placed in a sunny position to help the fruit ripen. Fill pots with loam-based compost such as John Innes No 2 for raspberries, ericaceous compost for blueberries and general good-quality multipurpose compost for strawberries. Add a few crocks at the bottom of the containers to help with drainage, then plant container-grown plants by gently teasing the roots at the base of the plants to encourage the root system to establish quicker. Top-up with soil and a layer of grit or pebbles, which will help keep them hydrated. You’ll need a growing support for raspberries. Regular watering is a must, plus weekly feeding with a liquid seaweed fertilizer, is essential. You may need to throw over a net to deter birds. f Amanda Brame is head of horticulture at Petersham Nurseries Covent Garden; petershamnurseries. com. Read more at fdsm.co/columns

Photograph by (Tom Hunt) David Harrison; (Amanda Brame) Lewis McCarthy

HAT DOES ‘ZERO waste’ mean? Spoiler Alert! There’s no such thing as zero waste – some waste is inevitable and happens at every step of the food chain, from the farm to our forks. That said, we can all waste a lot less. The charity Waste Watch says that on average every person in the UK throws away their own bodyweight in rubbish every seven weeks. Most households throw away at least 40kg of plastic each year, which is enough to pollute vast areas of ocean and wildlife. Zero waste is an aspiration and philosophy about caring for our planet in simple and easy ways that also inadvertently adds real value and enjoyment to our own lives. For example, taking the time to find a local market that sells loose produce will not only reduce the plastic and packaging we buy, but more often than not, increase the quality of our produce while decreasing the costs. Over the next year I’m going to lay out eight simple steps to help you reduce your waste, in the tastiest possible way. Each article will also appear on the foodism website, with instructional videos, so that you can reference each step as and when you need to and become your own ‘zhero’ waster.


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AT THE TABLE… Queer Eye’s new food and wine expert Antoni Porowski talks to Jordan Kelly-Linden about the new series, his Netflix heroes, and exactly what he thinks of his critics 30


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ANS OF NETFLIX’S Queer Eye will instantly recognise Antoni Porowski. The self-taught cook, actor and model serves as the food and wine expert on the reboot of Queer Eye (formerly with the suffix for the Straight Guy). The show – in which Porowski and his four co-stars visit Americans with the aim of teaching them to look, live and feel better – first made its name back in 2003 on the US TV channel Bravo. After a decadelong sabbatical, it returned to our screens via Netflix in February this year with an all-new cast and was met with much acclaim – not least for the way it challenged its subjects’ views on ideas of masculinity and sexuality. Alongside Porowski, Doncaster-born Tan France now handles fashion choices, with American co-stars Karamo Brown on culture, lush-locked Jonathan Van Ness on self-care and grooming, and Bobby Berk on interior design duty. Canadian-born Porowski completes the set, on food and drink. That ‘expertise’ took some flak after the release of the first season: thanks to the way the show is cut together, he says, his recipes can resemble something more like straightforward preparation than cooking. While the show can make Porowski seem reserved and softly spoken, in person he’s charismatic, eloquent and more animated than he can appear on-screen. He also seems to be, at least judging by his Instagram feed, an accomplished cook, with his big break coming partly via a close friendship and working relationship with the show’s former food and wine expert, Ted Allen. With season two on the horizon, we managed to snatch some time with Porowski to find out exactly what the show’s return means for him. Here, he chats to us about how he got his foot in the door, what he thinks of people claiming he can’t cook, and that guacamole recipe.

connected was around the dinner table, from lavish feasts to something as simple as a Sunday brunch. It’s such a nice way to laugh and share something together.

NOW YOU’RE COOKING: Porowski teaches one of Queer Eye’s subjects, a firefighter in Georgia, a hot dog recipe in the show’s first season

Did you always want to work in food?

Who are your favourite TV cooks?

I didn’t know what I wanted to be when I was growing up. When I was in university I studied psychology; I was going to be a psychologist. I considered medicine at one point because everyone in my family is a doctor or an engineer. I studied theatre because acting is something that’s always been very important to me. I’ve always had many different passions, but food has always been something that I never really considered as something that I wanted to do in a professional way. The best cooks that I knew growing up were all moms and grandmas. Grandmas did the baking and the mothers did the cooking – it was very homely and not something that I thought about getting a professional education in. My biological mother is an excellent home cook but she never let me participate. I used to judge her for that, but I’m the exact same way now – I don’t let anyone cook with me. No helpers. Let me do it. I want to do the cooking, the cleaning, the presentation – all of it. I’m even the waiter. When I moved out of my parents’ house when I was young, I didn’t have any money, I was no longer living this really spoilt lifestyle and I had to teach myself. I would obviously love to go to CIA or Cordon Bleu or wherever and learn, but at the same time, I watched the greats on PBS when I was growing up before Netflix came around, and now I have Mind of a Chef.

Gabriel Hamilton is one of my favourites ever. The simplicity and honesty that she approaches food with is just so incredible. And Christina Tosi is this sweet, kind-hearted girl who learned from her grandmother and her mother and now she basically has this full-on empire of sweets. I have a deep reverence and respect for chefs. They’re my rockstars. They’re my Pete Dohertys.

Is your cooking on the show deliberately simplistic? Firstly, we do several components to everything on the show. Tan does multiple outfits for every single person. But only a couple of them – he would very much approve of your shirt, by the way – ever make it into the final edit. For Tom Jackson, for example [the infamous ‘guacamole’ episode] we did make him a whole meal: we taught him how to make a flank steak, to cut against the grain so it’s delicate enough to put in a quesadilla, because you don’t want to bite into a quesadilla and have the meat pull. And how to work with Mexican oregano, marinating it properly and how to grill it to get a char; what kind of cheese to use that doesn’t have too much of a pull, but that’s still really creamy. Tom has lupus, so we wanted to make a salsa that actually didn’t use nightshades – peppers or tomato or garlic or any of those – →

Photograph [portrait] by Austin Hargrave; [screenshot] via Netflix

Were you always interested in food? I think I underestimated the importance of food in my life until this show came about. I was talking to my cousin Maya about this, and she told me: “You were five or six years old and you used to talk about how much you loved demi-glace, or how the perfect roast turkey had a really amazing gravy and it was all about not putting too much flour in it. You always had this obsession with talking about food. You’d be eating one meal and talking about the next.” It’s something that’s been very important to my family. I come from a family where we weren’t very good at being communicative about our feelings, but where we all

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→ because they’re inflammatory foods and for lupus that’s a problem. So instead I made one with jícama, a really delicious Mexican root vegetable that kind of tastes like an apple and a potato had a baby, with crunchy charred corn, black bean, cilantro and lime juice that actually has zero nightshades. We made all that and the guacamole was the one that made it to the final cut. When I saw that I was like “I worked so hard.” What do you say to people who think you can’t cook? It’s always been pathologically important for

IF YOU SAY I CAN’T COOK, CHECK OUT MY INSTAGRAM AND GET OVER IT 32

me to be loved by everybody, but with having a public life, it’s actually impossible to have that. It’s actually been the ultimate lesson for me. But if you’re going to be a moron about it and say that I can’t cook, check out my Instagram. Get over it. We’re so blessed to have the love and support that we’ve had for this show. It’s been very explosive and very quick – these are the times that we live in and when you get so much positivity, you’re bound to get a bit of hate as well. So if that comes with it, it is what it is, and it’s not going to stop me from wanting to do what I want to do. I know that my passion is real, and I don’t have to justify that to anybody. Netflix had faith in me – that’s got to count for something. Overall it’s been good for me, though, because it was a reminder that this isn’t about my skills and showing off what I’m capable of cooking, even though I hope that I imparted a bit of knowledge along the way. It’s about really dealing with the show’s hero and what works for them. For Tom, he had never seen the inside of an avocado before and he eats guacamole every frickin’ day, so I just wanted to show him that it’s really easy – it has three or four ingredients and that’s it. And you know what? I do like Greek yoghurt, and some Mexican restaurants I’ve been to put it in their avocado. I’m sticking by it.

Do you prefer to cook or eat out? I absolutely love cooking at home. Even when I’m really exhausted and even if I’m not really hungry I just have to do it. There’s just something so meditative about

TAKE FIVE: The cast of the relaunched Queer Eye: from left to right, Bobby Berk, Karamo Brown, Porowski, Jonathan van Ness and Tan France

it, even something as simple as cutting up carrots, celery and onion, getting them into perfect little cubes, cooking them down and watching them caramelise and reduce as the moisture leaves and the colour changes, while I’m listening to Miles Davis. It’s my favourite thing to do.

Do you have a signature dish or a particularly feel-good recipe? Mac ‘n’ cheese. That’s the ultimate. I love to make my own roux: typically the mix is a very high-quality, cloth-bound sharp cheddar; I put in gruyère for the nuttiness and then I put in mozzarella and make sure that I’ve incorporated it into the roux, with a little bit of nutmeg. I’d pour it over the pasta, I throw in my frozen peas and then I cook turkey meat or ground beef. Then I put in diced tomatoes and you cut out the insides, use that for like a vinaigrette, put just the flesh of the tomato in cubes with panko breadcrumbs that I toss in a bit of olive oil. You bake it and you basically have all your vegetables, you have all your meat and it’s just this sheet pan of baked mac ’n’ cheese. My boyfriend and I will bake that and then we’ll watch 30 Rock episodes and end up eating the entire vat and feeling like death. That’s the perfect night for me. f Queer Eye Season One is on Netflix now. Season Two is available from Friday 15 June; netflix.com


IT’S BEEN 5 YEARS SINCE WE MADE THE FIRST BOTTLE OF KARMA COLA. IN THAT TIME WE’VE MADE ANOTHER 3 GREAT TASTING, FAIRTRADE AND ORGANIC FIZZY DRINKS. WE CREATED 1 SUGAR FREE VERSION OF KARMA COLA. WE FORMED A COMPANY THAT’S GROWN TO 35 PEOPLE. WE’VE SOLD 12,000,000 OF OUR GOOD KARMA DRINKS IN 23 COUNTRIES. ALL THIS HAS ENABLED THE KARMA COLA FOUNDATION TO SUPPORT FARMING COMMUNITIES IN 8 VILLAGES IN SIERRA LEONE. WE’VE HELPED BUILD 1 BRIDGE. WE’VE PROVIDED BURSARIES FOR 75 GIRLS TO GO TO SCHOOL. WE’VE PAID 5 TEACHERS TO EDUCATE ANOTHER 265 CHILDREN EACH YEAR. WE’VE INVESTED IN 18 LOCAL ENTREPRENEURS TRADING THEIR WAY TO A BRIGHTER FUTURE. BUT THAT’S NOT ALL. WITH YOUR HELP THERE’S SO MUCH MORE WE CAN DO. PLEASE BUY OUR DRINKS AND SHARE OUR STORY. @karmacolauk karmacola.co.uk

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If the people who used to run The Richmond have now taken over Neptune, someone must be taking the reins back in E8. That person is Tom Oldroyd (of, er, Oldroyd in Islington), who’s bringing a new dining room and some seriously tasty bar snacks to this age-old Hackney boozer. Excited? Just a bit. E8 3NH; thedukeofrichmond.com

DINING TRENDING

THE RADAR We preview the most anticipated bar and restaurant launches over the next couple of months Dining

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JUNE

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Trending

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While there are no prizes for guessing what’s on offer at this new restaurant in Russell Square (clue: the Greek god that gives it its name), there’s many a prize catch on its menu. Run by the duo formerly behind Hackney seafood restaurant The Richmond and complete with a giant raw bar in the centre of the dining room, this is where pescatarians go when they die. And, if you ask us, the seafood platter that features Scottish langoustines, rock oyster aguachile and trout tartare looks worth dying for. WC1B 5BE; neptune.london

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B R OT HE R M AR C US JUNE

Hold the phone: the Brother Marcus brunch is coming to North London this June, with a second, larger site of the much-loved Balham restaurant opening in Angel. You can expect all the old brunch classics, plus a new evening menu of southern Mediterranean small plates split into four sections: earth, land, sea and (vitally) snacks, each of which takes inspiration from the food of co-founder Tasos’ upbringing on the Greek island of Crete. We’ll take it all, thank you. N1 8EA; brothermarcus.co.uk

C OAL OF F ICE

JULY

This three-floor, roofterraced restaurant by Assaf Granit of The Palomar will be part of designer Tom Dixon’s swanky new office and showroom in King’s Cross. N1C 4PQ; tomdixon.net

Drinking

AM E R I CA N BA R

OPEN NOW

Old-school America meets new-school Med at the renovated American Bar at The Stafford hotel. SW1A 1NJ; the staffordlondon.com

Photograph by (Neptune) Steven Joyce; (Rovi) David Loftus

You only need to know two things about Fitzrovia restaurant Rovi: first, it’s a new restaurant from the team behind Ottolenghi; and second, its veg-forward menu will focus on fermentation and cooking over fire. Flame-grilled peaches, hay-smoked Jersey Royals and cucumber kombucha flying down your gullet? Goodness gracious. W1A 3AE; rovi-restaurant.com

This new Soho eatery is the first in London to offer northern Chinese street food and all-day Cantonese dim sum with Sichuan and Hunan influences. Do you even need to know more? Yeah, we thought not. W1D 5AH; baoziinn.com


IN GOOD TASTE

Taste of London is back this June, showcasing some of London’s best restaurants alongside interactive workshops and delicious tastings. Here’s what not to miss...

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ONDON IS A city that’s obsessed with food – that much is obvious. From an almost never-ending roster of pop-ups and restaurant openings to the city’s myriad food markets, craft breweries, sustainable start-ups and epicurean events, there’s something new to eat or drink launching on an almost unbelievably regular basis. One of the most renowned – and prestigious – occasions in the food and drink calendar is Taste of London, a five-day food festival in Regent’s Park that’s dedicated to all of the above and a hell of a lot more.

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This year, from 13-17 June, 55,000 visitors will flock to the festival to try dishes from some of the capital’s best chefs, get hands-on with interactive masterclasses and fill up on fantastic food and drink from London’s finest. Taste of London is guaranteed to give you an in-depth insight into the ever-evolving world of food in the city, and as a result there’s absolutely tons going on across the five days. So that you don’t miss all the good stuff, we’ve rounded up the best of the best. Here are four events and exhibitors you’ll want to pay a visit to while you’re there...

Celebrity Edge Celebrity Cruises’ immersive chef’s table returns to Taste of London for the sixth year running. Book yourself in and let Michelinstarred Cornelius Gallagher, Celebrity’s ‘vice president of culinary’, take you around the world bite by bite. Not only is this your chance to sample some seriously delicious food (alongside perfect wine pairings, of course), but you’ll also get a sneak peek of the menu on board Celebrity Edge before she sets sail for the first time in November 2018. Efficient and tasty? We’ll raise a glass to that.


Ladies of Restaurants London’s much-loved networking collective for women in hospitality will be making its debut at Taste this year. Ladies of Restaurants is run by Natalia Ribbe and Libby Andrews, and is aimed at bringing women in the industry together over a glass of wine to offer support, friendship and advice. Whether you work in the industry or not, it’s definitely one to check out – not least because there’ll be fantastic food and cocktails on offer by the likes of Ravneet Gill and Missy Flynn.

Prosecco DOC Not all wines were created equal, and Taste of London will have you tasting some of the very best. At Prosecco DOC’s stand – hosted in collaboration with Grana Padano cheese – experts will be on hand to walk you through the flavours and complexities

of a tasty roster of sparkling wines from the iconic Italian region. There’ll also be cooking demonstrations led by Danilo Cortellini, the head chef at the Italian Embassy in London, and Grana Padano cheese and prosecco pairings with Francesco Mazzei.

Taste of London restaurants You know that restaurant you’ve always wanted to visit but haven’t found the time (or maybe budget) to check out yet? Yeah, they’re probably previewing at Taste, which means you can do the rounds and tick off a whole number of places you’ve been desperate to try for months. There’s around 40 different restaurants dishing up this year and too many to mention here, but we’ve already got our sights on Robin Gill’s Sorella, the West African-inspired monkfish from Ikoyi and a few of the dishes from Smoke & Salt. f

HOW TO GET INVOLVED

Taste of London’s flagship event runs from 13-17 June in Regent’s Park, London. Entry passes give you full access to the festival grounds. A selection of bundles and VIP passes are available for and extra cost, too. Taste of London is located at London Regent’s Park, NW1 4NR. Entry costs £17. For further information on the festival and additional ticket options, head to london.tastefestivals.com

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THE WINNERS... C

Our rundown of the category winners from the Foodism 100 awards continues with community hub Pop Brixton, and anti-food-waste fine-dining restaurant The Frog E1

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Pop Brixton Pop is more than just a funky street-food market made out of former shipping containers. It’s also a community hub and incubator for start-ups that’s helping to transform the neighbourhood for the better with its Community Investment Scheme. WHO ARE THEY?

It was launched back in 2015, in partnership with Lambeth Council, by Carl Turner Architects and a company now known as Makeshift to make the most of a derelict

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car park. Three years on, the 50-something containers are now home to more than 55 different independent businesses, including a number of pop-up restaurants; Reprezent Radio social enterprises, such as The People’s Fridge and Pop Farm; and even a local barbershop. And, as if that weren’t enough, it’s estimated that Pop generated more than £9m for the local economy in 2016 alone. WHAT’S ON THE MENU?

Dive into anything from Petare’s Venezulan street food to cheesy delights from Raclette

Brothers. If you want something more formal, head to Duck Duck Goose or find Smoke & Salt’s Aaron Webster and Remi Williams making their ferment-forward magic happen upstairs. If you’re in for a beverage, grab a glass of wine from New Zealand Cellar or a cool craft beer from the Brixton Port Authority. WHERE CAN I FIND THEM?

Pop SW9 8PQ into your phone and head down to Brixton Station Road until you find the colourful metal containers. You can’t miss it. popbrixton.org


The Frog Chef-patron Adam Handling has ensured all of The Frog group’s operations have a sharp focus on cutting out waste at every stage of preparation and cooking, not least at the ultra-contemporary Frog E1 in Shoreditch.

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There are two ‘Frogs’ in London, but if you want to hang out at our Foodism 100 winner, head on over to Ely’s Yard in the Old Truman Brewery, Shoreditch. f

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WHAT’S ON THE MENU?

It’s all sharing dishes, and exactly what’s cooking is very much dependent on the seasons, but right now look out for the roast pollock, Jersey Royal, rocket and clam dish, which makes the most of sustainably sourced fish, seasonal ‘tatties, and rocket that has been grown on the Indie Ecology farm using all that aforementioned compost.

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The Frog E1 is an award-winning restaurant in East London showing the fine dining world that you can be anti-food waste without compromising on flavour or presentation in any way. The business has partnered up with Igor Vaintraub, the owner of Indie Ecology farm in West Sussex, which works with commercial kitchens to rethink and reuse food waste. Fruit and vegetable waste from the restaurant is sent off to Vaintraub’s farm where it is then composted and used to grow produce. The produce is then brought back into Handling’s restaurants where every scrap is put to use in the group’s cooking, whether that’s during service or transferred (on foot) to Handling’s sustainable delicatessen Bean & Wheat near Liverpool Street, where any food that was not used in the previous day’s service at The Frog E1 is transformed into a meal.

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Photograph (Pop plants) by Camille Mack

POP HAS CREATED A BOOST FOR THE LOCAL ECONOMY

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HOP CULTURE LONDON, ONE BEER AT A TIME

THE LONDON BEER MAP

London’s best breweries and where to find them

MONDO, BATTERSEA

Stewart’s Road, SW8 4UG

chance to try fresh stock, limited-edition collabs and beers from friends of the brewery.

The brewery

The beer

Started by avid homebrewers Todd Matteson and Thomas Palmer in 2015, Battersea’s Mondo Brewing Company values experimentation, collaboration and the openness of homebrew culture, and damn tasty beer. The taproom – a small craft house with views into the brewery and bottling line – is open Wednesday to Saturday, but it’s worth keeping an eye out for the brewery’s quarterly parties, which give you the perfect

Mondo’s core range is packed with wellbalanced IPAs, from the sessionable Little Victories to best-selling Dennis Hopp’r. Seasonals, meanwhile, pack some serious creative punch, whether it’s the face-melting cryo-hopped Ghost Dance DIPA or the 6.5% Breakfast Stout, which was brewed using maple syrup from Matteson’s father’s business in Connecticut. Collaborations are regular, too, and include a maple-infused

maibock made alongside St Louis brewer Urban Chestnut, and an effervescent cherry sour ale, brewed with Heretic in California.

What else? Mondo is pretty famous for brewing the bold, fruity house IPA for Dishoom, but the brewery’s restaurant specials don’t stop there: the Mexican-style amber lager Pinche Guey has replaced Negra Modelo at most Wahaca restaurants, and the team has just released a super-limited special edition yuzu pale ale for Tonkotsu, too. Ramen to that. f mondobrewingcompany.com

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H OP C ULT UR E

STYLE IT OUT

THREE TO TRY T HOR NB R IDG E TART BAK EW E L L S O U R Bakewell, UK A crisp, tangy sour that gives off wellbalanced notes of citrus hops, rhubarb and grapefruit. Tart by name, tart by nature. 6%, 330ml; £2.19; thornbridgebrewery.co.uk

Your all-knowing guide to the complex world of beer styles, classic and modern. This month: sours

SOUR

A cucumber and sea buckthorn sour might sound like the avant garde of craft beer, but these lip-puckering brews are some of the oldest on the planet, dating back to 4,000 BC when a lack of brewing tech meant that all beers were made this way. These days, whether it’s a Belgian lambic, an American wild ale or a German berliner weisse, every sour has one thing in common: bacteria or wild yeast has been let loose on it during fermentation or aging to create a tang and acidity that’s quite unlike any other type of beer. And it’s that funky un-beeriness that makes sours the perfect gateway bev for people who claim they don’t like beer. Liars.

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FEST IN SHOW

Double news klaxon: this year’s London Craft Beer Festival has announced its food lineup and the winners of its Raise the Bar competition, which celebrates some of the rising stars of UK brewing. The winners are Boxcar, Burnt Mill, Unity Brew Co and West by Three – and they’ll all be found pouring pints at the festival in Tobacco Dock from 3-5 August, alongside food traders like Pitt Cue, Luca, Hoppers, Serious Pig, Bun House and more. Double win. londoncraftbeerfestival.co.uk

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W IL D B E E R C O T HE B L E ND 2017 Shepton Mallet, UK A careful blend of Wild’s best barrel-aged sours, this gueuze-inspired beer has a ten-year use-by date to leave time for extra wild fermentation in the bottle. 4.9%, 750ml; £18; wildbeerco.com

CASE IN POINTS

Not content with earning £1.1m of backing via a recent crowdfunding campaign, The Five Points Brewing Company has also grabbed the keys to The Pembury Tavern – a lovely boozer on the iconic Five Points junction that gives the Hackney Brewery its name. This’ll be the team’s first foray into taprooms, bringing (even more) independent beer to east London. Expect a big old party when it opens in September. fivepointsbrewing.co.uk

ONE M IL E E ND G OSE F L E UR DE S EL Tottenham, London, UK The gose style (pronounced ‘goes-uh’) is a characteristically salty sour from Goslar in Germany, and this one – made with Cambodian kampot fleur de sel – does not disappoint one bit. 4.2%, 330ml; £2.60; onemileend.com


WHERE TO DRINK IT V E NUE GUI D ES F O R LO NDO N’S B E E R L OVE RS

Sick of going elbow-to-elbow for craft on draught in busy pub gardens? It’s high time you grabbed a growler of freshly-tapped beer to take to the park… 1 Clapton Craft 97 Lower Clapton Road, E5 0NP

Photographs by (Five Points) Sam Huddleston; (We Brought Beer) Chris Coulson; (Hop Burns & Black) ) D. Batkin-Smith/themammalgroup.com

An ever-increasing empire of well-stocked bottle shops, Clapton Craft is the perfect place to pick up craft brews by the growler. Our fave is the original in Clapton, which is in easy walking distance of London Fields and Viccy Park. Expect lashings of New England IPA from the likes of Cloudwater and Verdant on-tap as the weather hots up. claptoncraft.co.uk

2 We Brought Beer 78 St John’s Hill, SW11 1SF

Clapham Junction: famous for chain pubs, train delays and (thank goodness) We Brought Beer. If you’re thinking about

SCURRY TO THE PARK WITH A TWO-LITRE FLAGON

indulging in a jug of hop juice on Clapham Common – or even in the Surrey Hills by train, for that matter – head here. You can plan ahead by checking out the shop’s current and upcoming tap lists online. webroughtbeer.co.uk

3 Canopy Beer Co Arch 1127, Bath Factory Estate, SE24 9AJ

Between the railway, a Costcutter and the Herne Hill side of Brockwell Park, you’ll find Canopy Beer Co – a true south London stalwart that’s made a name for itself with a top-class core range, from pales to porters. This summer will see the addition of a winelees-aged saison and a DDH extra pale. Grab a one- or two-litre flagonful of the stuff, then scurry over the road to the park, stat. canopybeer.com

5 Caps and Taps 130 Kentish Town Road, NW1 9QB

As you might suspect, this beer haven is packed to the rafters with bottles, cans and a counter-pressure filling station that rotates its liquid stock with pleasing regularity. It’s your best bet for a civilised spot of hot-weather boozing on Hampstead Heath or Primrose Hill – both are about 20 minutes away on foot – although it’s a little longer if you drink all that beer on your way over there. f capsandtaps.co.uk

NEWS

4 Beer Rebellion 129 Queen’s Road, SE15 2ND

Found an equal(ish) distance from Burgess Park, Peckham Rye and Telegraph Hill, Beer Rebellion’s Peckham outpost is your go-to stop for big-bottle refills in south-east London. To be honest, it’s pretty good for a spot of small-bottle boozing, too, as punters spill out the front for a pint as soon as the sun gets its hat on. There’s another bar in Gipsy Hill if you fancy venturing further south. beerrebellion.org

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SHACKING UP

Humans of Deptford, get ready: a small and perfectly formed version of much loved East Dulwich bottle shop Hop Burns & Black is set to arrive right outside Deptford Station in the next month. Affectionately named Hop Burns & Shack, this so-called ‘tardis of awesomeness’ will be a hoppy addition to one’s of London’s beeriest neighbourhoods: SE8. hopburnsblack.co.uk

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THE ARTIST

Dublin-based illustrator Tara O’Brien’s art is centred around bright, lively pictures of modern women, which makes it the perfect partner to this beer, brewed by 30 female brewers and production staff from across the UK. A joyous, nostalgic expression of lazy summer days with friends, the label sums up the (hopefully) sunny weather you’ll be drinking it in. taraobrien.co

HOP C U LTURE

Your guide to the designers and illustrators behind beer labels. This month: a special collab

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What do you get when you throw together 30 of the best women in UK beer, Earth Station Brewing’s Jenn Merrick, craft evangelists We Are Beer and a group of students from HeriotWatt University? This new forcedrhubarb berliner weisse, it turns out. Pooling the technical knowhow of breweries like Pressure Drop, The Five Points and Cloudwater, this beer combines sherbet sourness with delicate aromatics. Basically, if craft brewers are rock stars (which they are), this is the ultimate supergroup. wearebeer.com

Photograph by Ian Dingle

LABEL MATES

THE BREWER


hopkinguk @hop_king Tel: 07950353427 www.hopking.org


H OP C ULT UR E

THE SUM OF ALL BEERS

London Craft Beer Festival returns to Tobacco Dock from 3-5 August. Here are a few standout brews to check out

NORT HE R N M ONK X KC B C Very Stable Genius lager, 5.2% A collab lager brewed with rice and corn that harks back to brewing methods popular during Prohibition in the US.

OED I PUS Mama APA, 7.9% Amsterdam-based Oedipus Brewing gives the classic American pale ale a high-ABV (and, er, Freudian) twist.

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LERVIG

Coconuts imperial stout, 12.5% A powerful mix of treacle, liquorice and coconut in a solid stout from this forward-thinking Norwegian brewery.

MAGIC R OC K Botany of Desire Honey DIPA, 8.7% This punchy DIPA has soothing notes of heather honey to take the edge off.

THE KEY INFO

London Craft Beer Festival takes place at Tobacco Dock from 3-5 August. Expect stands from more than 60 of the world’s best brewers, awesome food from traders like Hoppers, Pitt Cue and Luca, and DJ sets from Two Door Cinema Club, Everything Everything and more. Oh, and all your beer is included in the £46.50 ticket price. Not half bad. To buy tickets and find out more, go to londoncraftbeerfestival.co.uk

Photograph ### Photograph by IanbyDingle

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2017

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5-STAR SERVICE EXCLUSIVE BUTLER SERVICE IN TOP-TIER SUITES Of all the luxuries at Sandals, it’s the 5-star service of our bartenders, waiters, and personal butlers, trained by the Guild of Professional English Butlers, who keep our guests coming back time and time again.

MORE QUALITY LAND & WATER SPORTS THAN ANY OTHER RESORTS IN THE CARIBBEAN Only Sandals includes more quality land and water sports than any other resorts in the Caribbean - from championship golf* to motorised water sports like waterskiing and scuba diving.^ It’s all included, all unlimited!


UP TO

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GOURMET RESTAURANTS

PER RESORT. ALL INCLUDED. ALL UNLIMITED. Enjoy unlimited dining at up to 16 restaurants! From freshly rolled sushi at Soy, to Filet Mignon steak cooked to perfection at Butch’s Chophouse, we serve cuisine to please even the toughest foodie! You can enjoy unlimited premium brand drinks at up to 11 bars per resort. From cocktails at the swim-up pool bar to a glass of fizz on a rooftop bar overlooking the Caribbean sunset, it’s all included in the price of your holiday.

THE MOST EXCLUSIVE SUITES IN THE CARIBBEAN Our 5-star accommodation are ranked among the finest and most romantic in the world—from Over-the-Water Villas to Millionaire Suites. We call them Love Nest Suites®, you will call them amazing!

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*Mandatory caddies or carts at cost. ^Cost includes two free dives per day for certified divers . Additional T&Cs may apply.


— PART 2 —

FEAST “MY MIND BOUNDS INTO OVERDRIVE, RUNNING AWAY WITH IMAGINATIVE INTERPRETATIONS OF THIS THIMBLEFUL OF BOOZE ” TOM POWELL ON WHISKY MADE AT RAASAY’S FIRST LEGAL DISTILLERY, 072

052 CARIBBEAN FOOD | 058 FIVE DISHES: NIEVES BARRAGAN MOHACHO 066 HOTEL RESTAURANTS | 072 DISTILLING WHISKY IN RAASAY, SCOTLAND 078 MIXOLOGY: THE BLIND PIG


FOLLOW US @FOODISMUK

FOODISMUK

HERE COMES THE SUN

From jerk-spiced meat to ackee and saltfish, Caribbean cooking is as distinctive as it is delicious. We explore some of the produce, places and people that define it

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RUM

in Barbados

T Photograph by (main) Christian Wheatley/Getty

HERE’S A LOT to love about the Caribbean: balmy weather, beautiful views, swimmable blue waters. It’s not surprising that when it comes to the perfect holiday, the region ticks pretty much every single box you could think of. But to think about the Caribbean as a uniform group of picture-postcard islands and coastlines is a mistake of epic proportions – geography, culture and national identity vary enormously, and so, therefore, does the region’s food and drink. Wherever you go, though, you can’t fail to miss the central role eating and drinking plays in society. From rum – thought by many to have originated in Barbados, and still made and drunk throughout the Caribbean – to bountiful local fruit and veg, the region’s a treasure trove for food and drink lovers. We’ve compiled our favourite food stories gleaned from the foodism team’s travels to the Caribbean, from visiting a completely organic farm on the Belizean coast to seeking out some of the world’s most sought-after coffee in Jamaica’s Blue Mountains. And once that’s whet your appetite, we’ve spoken to some people who know exactly what they’re talking about when it comes to authentic Caribbean grub in London, whether that’s eating it or the ingredients you need to cook it. All you need to do is it sit back with a rum punch and enjoy…

Photograph by ###

BARBADOS’S RUM SHOPS ARE A REAL DISTILLATION OF ITS PEOPLE

– Jon Hawkins

If you want to know anything about Barbados and the people who live there, you need to know about its rum shops – and you need to know about rum. Barbados is generally thought to be the birthplace of the stuff. Sugar cane was introduced to the island in the 1630s by British colonialists, who deforested the land and imported slaves from Africa to provide forced labour as Barbados grew to become a sugar-producing powerhouse. The unwanted byproducts of extracting sugar from sugar-cane – including molasses and ‘skimmings’ – were often dumped in the ocean, until planters realised they would ferment to create a sweet, alcoholic drink. This rough and fiery liquid – they called it ‘Kill Devil’ – would eventually become known as rumbullion, which was then shortened to rum. In 1703, legendary brand Mount Gay was born when the ironically named John Sobers inherited a distillery and asked his friend Sir John Gay to run it. Today, the distillery still exists and you can do tours. Although the molasses used to make the rum is imported, the spirit – and the 50,000 American white-oak barrels that once held bourbon and are now filled with maturing Mount Gay – is a very literal source of national pride. But the real place where islanders go to pay tribute to the spirit is the rum shop, and as I discover as I travel around the island visiting more than a few of them, they themselves are a distillation of the island’s people – laid-back, totally charming and welcoming to anyone and everyone. I’ve barely walked through the door of John Moore Bar in Weston before some locals have freed up a couple of chairs and put a rum punch and a beer in front of me. This, I’m told, has nothing to do with tourism, but is a mark of Barbadian culture. And I find it’s true: you can pull up at a rum shop and meet someone you don’t know, and soon be sharing a bottle of rum and having an argument about cricket. From there the conversation can, and does, go all over the world.

By Jon Hawkins

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BLUE MOUNTAIN COFFEE

in Jamaica

For many, the vision of Jamaica as a place full of palm trees, white sands and coconuts, with piña coladas and rum punch on the beach, is the dominant one. The country has all those things, of course, if they’re what you want – but to me, they’re not Jamaica. To me, Jamaica’s beating heart may as well be drums and the throngs dancing to them. It’s the Blue Mountains. It’s coffee. I was raised on reggae, with a father whose frequenting of South London dancehalls in the 1980s fostered a love of Jamaican culture that he passed on, and who took us to Jamaica as soon as the opportunity arose. I can recall, hazily, memories of fruit punch and snorkelling. But what stuck with me were memories of mountain hospitality and, even more strongly, the taste of Blue Mountain coffee. Now, at a tiny house perched high above rolling valleys, with a spectacular view across the plantations, I get to try that coffee again. I meet the elderly woman who has been selling the best in the land for decades and – of course – I absolutely have to try some. I crunch beans ranging from mild to strong, then an extra-special roast that’s been aged for five years, before, finally, trays of mugs containing hot, strong, black coffee with spoonfuls of honey (which must have replaced condensed milk as the way to drink it in the mountains) are brought out and eagerly drunk. If I were worried that the taste wouldn’t live up to my memories, I really needn’t have been. You can keep your Kopi Luwak – for me, there’s no better coffee than this in the world. The drawback? The bag of beans I brought home with me is getting close to running out, and it’s an awfully long way to go for a top-up.

By Mike Gibson

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WHERE TO EAT IT Riaz Phillips, right, is the author of Belly Full: Caribbean food in the UK, which documents the people behind some of the UK’s Caribbean restaurants. He shares his favourite spots for authentic Caribbean cooking in London True Flavours

Owner and head chef Junior’s technique of slow-cooked simmered steak accompanied by peppers and spices, cooked in a classic Jamaica Sun dutch pot, is an instant winner. Try it with coconut-infused rice and mac’n’cheese and you’ll understand the queues. 101 Acre Lane, Brixton, SW2 5TU

Smokey Jerkey

Smokey Jerkey has been a South London favourite for nearly a decade. A shop fire forced the team to strip back the building to its bare bones, leaving them to concentrate on one thing: jerking. Its charred-on-the-outside, juicyon-the-inside jerk chicken, lamb and pork are arguably some of the best in town. 158 New Cross Road, New Cross, SE14 5BA

People’s Choice

Owner Lenny has perfected a two-hour, slowcooked jerk, the result being marinated chicken


PRODUCE

on Belize’s Caribbean coast

Photograph by (main) Mike Toy ; (bottom right) Belize Tourist Board

My afternoon is spent ankle-deep in mud in the rainforest near Punta Gorda, a town on Belize’s Caribbean coast. I’m semi-effectively brandishing a banana leaf as an umbrella while my group is being given a tour of a cocoa farm, run by Eladio, a local of Mayan descent. Undeterred by the deluge, Eladio leaps around feeding us purple corn, ginger, turmeric, palm hearts and cocoa beans taken straight from the plants, and enthusing about Belize’s natural larder. His farming technique is, erm, unusual: ‘crops’ are planted by animals and birds pooping out and spreading the seeds; he just cultivates the resulting plants. Eladio is just one of many – 30,000 of Belize’s population are of Mayan descent. Much of the Maya culture has been preserved, and today you can undertake a ‘living experience’, where you stay with a Maya family and learn about their customs. Eladio offers this cultural experience at his family home, but today we meet his wife and daughters, who show us how they produce solid chocolate and other products. We try the traditional hot cocoa drink that Eladio has every day, which, he claims, is what maintains his health and vitality. Eladio’s family grind the cocoa beans using a metate, a bit like a giant mortar and pestle, into a smooth paste that’s then added to hot water with spices. The frothy drink has deep earthy notes of cinnamon and nutmeg. It’s addictive, comforting and reviving, without that sugary sweetness. As a selfconfessed chocoholic, I can definitely get on board with drinking this daily.

skin that many agree is even better than the meat. The jerk is constant, but there’s a different array of Caribbean foods every day, from callaloo to breadfruit and fried dumplings. 51B Chatsworth Road, Hackney, E5 0LH

Roti Stop

With fresh roti made on a traditional southeastern tawah griddle, fillings range from pumpkin, spinach-like callaloo, curry goat and jerk chicken to a rare salt fish roti. 36B Stamford Hill, N16 6XZ

Ochi

The bastion of Caribbean food in West London. Anyone who proclaims to be a fan of island food will know it for its classics, from ackee and saltfish to curry goat. 226 Uxbridge Road, W12 7JD To find out more about Belly Full, go to tezetapress.com

TO ME, JAMAICA’S HEART IS THE BLUE MOUNTAINS. IT’S COFFEE

By Lydia Winter

– Mike Gibson

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QUEEN’S PARK

SWIZZLE

2 oz Angostura® Dark Rum 1 oz Demerara simple syrup 1 oz fresh lime juice 12-14 mint leaves 6-8 dashes Angostura® aromatic bitters Garnish: Mint Sprig Glass: Highball Build in a highball glass; muddle mint leaves in lime juice and simple syrup then fill glass with dry crushed ice. Pour rum over crushed ice and swizzle well until glass is ice-cold and frosted. Pack glass with more crushed ice and top with Angostura® aromatic bitters. IN ASSOCIATION WITH


VITAL INGREDIENTS Marie Mitchell is the London-based chef behind Caribbean supper club Island Social Club. Here, she shares her essential ingredients for Caribbean cooking Scotch bonnet peppers Spicy yet sweet, these are as versatile as you need them to be. If you want charged heat, throw the seeds in; otherwise, for a more subtle flavour, pop a whole pepper into a curry, soup or rice and peas to add a delicious sweetness.

Thyme This pretty much features in all of my dishes and is one of my all-time favourite herbs. It has an earthiness that really elevates and lifts flavours. It’s one of the ingredients in jerk sauce, and my dad and I use it in our rice and peas and our green sauce, which is a Caribbean marinade that’s used for fish or meat.

Salted Fish Amazing on its own, lightly rehydrated, or alternatively soaked and then shredded in fritters or ackee and saltfish, a Jamaican favourite. I’ve recently started to salt my own fish and the difference in flavour is immense.

Ginger Great in curries, drinks, juices, and in a paste. Ginger is wonderfully versatile, and I use it in curry goat, as well as in fresh ginger beer and cocktails. I also use it with lime to make cheesecakes.

Sorrel But not as you know it – Jamaican sorrel is actually hibiscus. I absolutely love its slight bitterness and the sweet notes that follow through. I use it to make drinks with ginger and rum; a sauce for ice cream or cornbread; or with other spices to make a marinade.

Photograph by (Marie Mitchell) Chiron Cole

Marie’s next supper club is 19 July. Follow @islandsoclub and @popskitchen for more info

LOCALS SIT IN THEIR TRUCKS, SNACKING ON HEFTY CHUNKS OF BBQ JERK CHICKEN

– Hannah Summers

STREET FOOD

in Trinidad

Come dusk, the car park at Queen’s Park Savannah – a grassy plot of land in Trinidad and Tobago’s capital, Port of Spain – is transformed into a party of 50 stalls, where anyone from lawyers to lads settle down for lively picnics by their souped-up cars. It’s here that I try what’s surely one of the least photogenic but besttasting street foods going: doubles. “They’re the mischievous little cousin of roti,” says my guide, Andrew Welch, before asking the stall’s owner for “doubles with everything, slight.” Within seconds I’m handed two floppy, pancake-esque circles splatted with curried chickpeas (beige), mango chutney (beige-ish), a bit of chilli spice (that’s the “slight” part), tamarind sauce and cucumber: a sloppy brown heap that Andrew urges me to scoop up by hand. We stall-crawl, joining grannies and children tucking into battered chicken wings slathered in luminous buffalo sauce, foot-long, deep-fried fish and fresh rotis. One tent has a 20-strong queue leading back through the car park. “This is Dr Fresh,” says Andrew, introducing me to the stall’s owner, who hurls ingredients into four shaking blenders that are working overtime to blitz tropical, icy concoctions. “His shakes come packed with pineapple, warnings and disclaimers.” And generous glugs of rum, obviously. Talking about food and drink seems to engage the Trinis in intense chats, and I soon realise that lustily comparing notes on the last meal, and the next, is the best way to make friends with my fellow food peongs – that’s Trini slang for obsessives. Our edible marathon continues at Look Out, another car park/stall hotspot that’s earned its name due to views of the capital’s twinkling lights in the distance. Here, locals sit in the trunks of their pick-up trucks, snacking on hefty chunks of barbecued jerk chicken, creamy corn soup made with coconut milk and chilli, boiled chicken feet, and my favourite, pholourie – saffron-flavoured batter that’s cooked to create squidgy, deep-fried balls.

By Hannah Summers

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A CAREER IN DISHES: NIEVES BARRAGAN MOHACHO 59


I’VE ALWAYS TRIED TO COOK THE MOST TRADITIONAL SPANISH FOOD I CAN. IT’S ABOUT RESPECT First at Fino and Barrafina, and now at Sabor, Nieves Barragán Mohacho has earned a legion of fans by faithfully reproducing traditional Spanish recipes. The results, as these five dishes prove, are often magical, says Mike Gibson Photography by Ian Dingle

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ALK OF ‘FAMILY-STYLE’ cooking and Michelin stars are usually mutually exclusive – you’d associate the latter with Frenchinfluenced fine-dining; recipes it would be nigh-on impossible for the average home cook to even attempt. But the influence of Nieves Barragán Mohacho’s family – especially her mother – shines brightly over her cooking. Growing up in the Basque Country town of Santurtzi, she recalls a childhood of travelling around Spain with her parents, absorbing the nation’s different food cultures and iconic dishes, and of learning to cook at the stove alongside her mother, who would, as she recalls, “be cooking lunch, and then when we finished lunch she’d start cooking dinner.” Barragán Mohacho moved to London a couple of decades ago, first as a kitchen porter at a restaurant chain, then as a sous chef at a couple of European restaurants, before joining Fino under restaurateurs the Hart Brothers in 2003 and becoming head chef four years later. It was at Fino that she discovered London’s appetite for traditional Spanish home cooking

elevated not by haute-cuisine technique and modernisation, but simply by exquisite reproduction of classic recipes. When the same restaurateurs opened the first iconic iteration of Soho’s Barrafina (to be joined by two more since then), her cooking earned the first a Michelin star – an uncommon accolade for a restaurant that was lively to the point of being chaotic, where Barragán Mohacho and her team served up unfussy, traditional Spanish dishes at a frenetic pace to a marble bar, inspired in part by classic Barcelona restaurant Cal Pep. Now, Barragán Mohacho and her longserving business partner José Etura have gone out on their own, opening Spanish restaurant Sabor on Heddon Street, with a focus on Galician-inspired seafood on the ground floor and wood-fired cooking at Asador upstairs. The atmosphere may be different, but Barragán Mohacho’s ethos remains the same: stewardship of iconic Spanish food tradition. “In my career, at Sabor, Barrafina and Fino, I’ve always tried to cook the most traditional Spanish food I can. It’s about ingredients, and respect.” Just like her mother taught her. f


ZARZUELA (FISH SOUP) Photograph by ###

This is one of the different dishes my mother used to cook at home. In my house, my mum always used to cook something [to eat] with a spoon first, and we’d end with a main course. For our Saturday or Sunday classic lunches we’d

have fish soup, and then we’d finish with lamb or suckling pig. It was one of my first flavours, and it reminds me of when I was young. It’s so homemade, and so tasty. My mum’s a good cook, so she’d be cooking the fish stew in the morning with an apron on – she’d be cooking lunch, and then when we finished lunch she’d start cooking dinner. I always wanted to help, so she’d teach me a lot of things.

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CROQUETAS DE JAMON This is a classic dish. In Spain, when you go out and you have tapas, these are the main style of croquetas. The first ones I cooked were ham croquetas, when we opened Fino. They

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were my mum’s recipe, again, and so are the ham croquetas that are still selling at Barrafina right now, but they’re my own version. They were one of my signature dishes when I came to London. People seem to know me for making the most amazing croquetas – I don’t want to say that myself, but it’s what people seem to say.


CHORIZO TORTILLA Photograph by ###

It’s about getting it right. Normally when you have tortilla in Spain it’s always well-done, or overcooked. My mum always used to make it runny, and now I can’t cook tortillas in any other way – my mum wouldn’t let me. For me, it has to have caramelised onions, the egg has to be runny, and for me it has to be a delicate tortilla.

I was one of the first chefs to serve this kind of tortilla in London. People started to say “Wow, this is the best tortilla I’ve ever tried.” Again, it means a lot because I remember it from when I was young, and it was another dish that opened the door for me in London. When I first started cooking here, I felt that authentic tapas in London had got a little bit lost. This dish was all about caring about what you’re doing.

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BLACK RICE When I cooked at Fino, it was incredibly rare to see black rice on a menu in London. It was a challenge: because it’s made with squid ink, you can taste the sea, and there’s fish flavour in your mouth, but the way it looks isn’t particularly appetising for some people. When I used to go to Valencia with my parents we would eat this, and it became one

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of my favourite rice dishes. Seventeen years ago at Fino, people’s reactions were almost like Marmite: some people ate it and said it was one of the best things they’d ever tried, and some people looked at it and were freaking out. Today, it’s another one of my favourites; people know me for my squid or cuttlefish ink black rice. For me, it means a lot. It’s one of the dishes that really opened the London food scene up to traditional Spanish cooking.


SEGOVIAN SUCKLING PIG Photograph by ###

This is one of the signature dishes at Sabor. I have people saying “I have to go to Segovia [a small city north of Madrid, in the centre of Spain]” after they’ve tried our suckling pig.

When I worked at Fino, I tried to introduce people to real Segovian suckling pig. At that time I couldn’t cook it in an authentic wood oven, but people said how beautiful it was. Now, my dreams have come true, and I can cook it in the real way, in a wood-fired oven, and it’s already been very successful at Sabor. saborrestaurants.co.uk

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TURNING OVER A NEW LEAF

The days of hotel restaurants existing solely as the drab domain of weary travellers are long gone. Nowadays, they’re a destination for anyone who wants to eat well. But what is it that makes the good ones a success? Clare Finney explores the best in London and beyond‌

PREMIER ROUX: Roux at The Landau serves up stunning dishes - such as burrata, beetroot, shiso - in stellar surroundings

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MAY AS WELL state it up front: I love hotels to the point of obsession. Sure, everyone gets a bit misty-eyed over white, fluffy dressing gowns, but I can well up at the sight of the fancy folds at the end of a loo roll after the room’s been cleaned. I’ve hoarded hotel pens; lurked in the lobbies of places I’m not even staying in; even paid through the nose for a glass of fizzy water just to sit in the legendary Dukes’ hotel bar. Yet despite my childlike awe at these selfcontained worlds in which your every whim is catered for, there is one aspect of hotels that – until recently at least – never really grabbed me: the restaurant. For, where the rest of the building oozed charisma and attention to detail, the dining room of a hotel invariably had as much charm and culinary potential as a school canteen. So I approached this brief with caution. Of course, I knew some hotel restaurants were peerless – The Savoy, The Ritz – but they were the luminaries. They weren’t representative of Britain’s contemporary hotel restaurant scene any more than Westminster Cathedral is of its architecture. I needed Ollie Dabbous, now of Henrietta; Nuno Mendes of Chiltern Firehouse; Frédéric Peneau, the chef whose recently opened Serge et le Phoque at the Mandrake hotel has brought rave reviews rolling in. Initially Peneau throws me a curve ball: “Serge et le Phoque is not a hotel restaurant,” he insists. “After Chateaubriand,” – his defining restaurant which spearheaded the neobistro movement back in the 1990s – “I was scared to open another ‘bistronomique’ or ‘gastronomique’ restaurant in France.” So he opened a ‘fast food’ gourmand kebab shop, Grillé in Paris, and at the same time opened Serge et le Phoque on the other side of the world in Hong Kong. Serge et le Phoque in the Mandrake was born when Rami Fustok, his future business partner, stopped by and →

Photograph by ###

HOTEL DINING ROOMS USED TO HAVE AS MUCH CHARM AS A CANTEEN 67


Breakfast Compotes Breakfast Compotes DISH OF THE STAY: Artichokes ‘à la Barigoule’, couscous, turmeric emulsion at Roux at the Landau, which has recently relaunched as a more “accessible and convivial” space

→ “fell in love with the friendly atmosphere and our high standard of food – good but also relaxed, you know?” Peneau continues. “We shared our ideas – Rami’s for the hotel and mine for the restaurant – and they aligned.” So a restaurant in a hotel then, as opposed to a ‘hotel restaurant’. This sounds suspiciously like semantics – but Peneau’s aversion proved my point about the term’s connotations. “I think for a long while hotel restaurants were seen as a service that could maximise a hotel’s revenue from guests, without making much effort,” explains Luke Holder, head chef of Hartnett Holder & Co at the New Forest’s Lime Wood hotel. Holder’s business partner is none other than Angela Hartnett, the Michelin-starred chef of Murano and formerly of the Connaught hotel. “When we arrived at Lime Wood the philosophy of

Gorgeous topping muesli and yoghurt Gorgeous topping muesli and yoghurt

www.bonnemaman.co.uk @BonneMamanUK

HOTELS HAVE HAD TO START UPPING THEIR GAME 68

the restaurant was not ‘this is a place for local people’ but ‘this is a fine-dining restaurant for our guests, and locals only on special occasions.’ The biggest focus for us, taking it over, was Monday to Thursday lunchtimes”, because it’s lunch, he continues – the business dinners, the yummy mummies, the darling dads – that is the biggest indicator of how integrated you are into the community. In five years, they’ve tripled it. “It used to be five to 15 daily. Now it’s 40 to 60,” Holder says proudly. It’s aspirational, but accessible. “It’s simple Italian cooking, which everyone loves, but the fact that Angela has three Michelin stars to her name and has worked in Italy adds credibility to that simplicity.” Instead of relying on the hotel guests, Hartnett and Holder struck out for the harder, deeper waters of the residents of Lyndhurst and surrounding towns. “We made a real effort to appeal to the local market. Using local suppliers has also helped that. We have the same pricing as our good local gastropubs – but equally price isn’t always a factor. It’s value,” he continues. Ten years ago, your average diner had the choice between Michelin-starred hotel joints or pubs and chain restaurants. By offering an affordable restaurant “with its own identity where quality is guaranteed and the menu’s not regurgitated,” Lime Wood latched onto what was the burgeoning middle ground.


BREAK FROM THE NORM: Interiors with flair at [below, left to right] Marcus Wareing at The Berkeley; the Courtyard Bar at Lime Wood hotel

For hotel restaurants, this has been crucial. Marcus Wareing’s stellar career has charted their evolution like no other, and it’s one of the first points he makes when we meet at the Berkeley hotel. “When I first moved to London, hotel restaurants were fine dining rooms – places for power lunches and dress-up dinner dances. Then all these talented chefs started popping up on high streets, making great food accessible, and the hotels had to start upping their game.” I look around: talking middle-ground dining with a Michelin-starred chef in his eponymous restaurant feels incongruous, especially

having just scaled the five-star marble steps of the Berkeley. Yet while Wareing is first and foremost a chef, he is also the owner of three iconic restaurants, two of which are in hotels; and his feel for the ingredients of their success could not be more sound. Of course, he agreed there were the luminaries that couldn’t really change, and shouldn’t change. “The Ritz never does anything different. That’s why you go there. It’s like Buckingham Palace.” For the most part, though, come the turn of the millennia, hotel restaurants found themselves competing not just with the hot new local talent, but on a global stage. “When I first came to London, the only place to eat out was hotels, and it was very standardised: French, nouvelle cuisine, white plates with very little on them. Then the Roux brothers opened Le Gavroche and brought proper food to the high street, inspiring a whole new generation.” Waring was one of them; the other Gordon Ramsay, whose arrival at Claridge’s heralded a sea of change in hotel fare. “That’s when the revolution really started,” Wareing says firmly. “In 2001, when Gordon went to Claridge’s.” With him came the combined, Michelin star-spangled influence not just of Albert Roux, but Pierre Koffmann, Marco Pierre White and Joël Robuchon. He’d run his own restaurant, Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, earning three stars in his own right by the time he even picked up one of hospitality’s most historic mantles. By 2005, Gordon Ramsay at Claridge’s had a Michelin star, and was making the hotel an annual profit of £2 million. Don’t let the hype →

Breakfast Compotes Breakfast Compotes

Delicious layered with granola and yoghurt

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Gorgeous topping muesli and yoghurt

www.bonnemaman.co.uk @BonneMamanUK


→ of the Henrietta blind you to the fact that “what Ollie’s doing is really not very different to what Gordon was doing – what I, and Jason Atherton were doing – 10 or 15 years ago.” “Of course, it’s a new generation,” Wareing acknowledges, “but we’re still here doing it.” The focus on great produce, the global outlook, more accessible pricing – none of the elements which make restaurant food what it is today would have come about without his generation’s hard work. Naturally there are those who argue, with some justification, that the drive to bring more fun and informality to hotel food is a mark of the “second wave of great chefs in hotel restaurants,” says Gavin Couper, food and beverage manager at One Aldwych in Covent Garden. “There’s a distinct absence of stuffiness and pretension.” In 2016 they invited Eneko Atxa to bring his Michelin-starred Basque cuisine to their tables. “We wanted to introduce Londoners to Basque cooking that’s accessible yet still authentic – food that is different but relatable,” Couper continues. “Hotel restaurants, just like standalone restaurants, need to be relevant to London and relevant to today’s informal eating culture.” Over in a beautifully restored former fire station in Marylebone, Nuno Mendes agrees with him. Even now, five years after the hype of its opening, Chiltern Firehouse remains one of the hottest watering holes in London. “I think that hotels here have been very classic in the past, and there is a certain stiffness about the experience there. They are not too street-conscious,” he explains. Chiltern Firehouse, meanwhile, reads like the greatest hits of restaurant trends post 2013. Slick cocktails, chefs cooking in an open kitchen, copper bar tops, burrata, ceviche;

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IT HAS TO HAVE ITS OWN IDENTITY, ITS OWN BRANDING if, as Mendes suggests, part of the secret to a successful hotel restaurant is “being in touch and engaged with trends and local guests” then he’s nailed it. But if that’s the case, then why are Michel Roux Jr, Marcus Wareing and Hélène Darroze – all of whom serve French food in fine, five-star dining rooms – doing so remarkably well? The answer, for Hélène Darroze, is quality: “Of the food, the service, the design, everything. That’s true of everywhere of course,” she tells me, on the phone from her clattering, clinking, bustling kitchen, “but we are part of the Connaught hotel.” Like the Langham, Claridge’s and the Berkeley, there is a venerable history here with which the restaurant is inextricably linked. “There’s a sense of tradition, which we had to take on board,” she continues. As Wareing points out, “You couldn’t come through this door

GAMECHANGERS: [below] Contemporary meets classic at Hélène Darroze at The Connaught; [right] ceviche at Serge et le Phoque

and it be all exposed brickwork. There has to be a synergy.” He gestures to the smart leather banquettes and the deep pile carpet. “It is a five-star hotel.” Five star is not the same as stuffy. When Holder and Hartnett took over the kitchen at Lime Wood, one of their first moves was to tone down the opulence. “It used to be a very intimating space to walk into, especially on a weekday lunchtime,” recalls Holder. A coffee machine, some decent music and a bar area later, and it’s a great atmosphere, rather than the cold sound of cutlery, that bounces off the walls. For all that the food has improved, Nuno Mendes’ observation that hotel restaurants have tended to “miss the sexy, fun element that a standalone restaurant offers” still has validity; some hotel restaurants, such as Eneko at One Aldwych and Shaun Rankin’s Ormer at Flemings in Mayfair have gone so far as to build separate entrances for their dining rooms to help lend them an air of individuality. “It has to have its own identity, it’s own branding – and it helps to have its own street entrance,” says Rankin. Wareing and Darroze beg to differ. “I love entering hotels – even hotel toilets!” Darroze tells me, laughing. “Who doesn’t like being welcomed by the doorman into a beautiful hotel?” Wareing exclaims, gesturing across the hall toward the Berkeley’s shimmering lobby. That said, these chefs are the first to acknowledge the need to temper the grandeur of an iconic hotel with a recognition of the prevailing zeitgeist: informal dining. “The entire Eneko London operation is quality-driven but not stuffy, from the design (by award-winning exhibition designers Casson Mann) to the style of food – informal modern Basque,” explains Couper. When Wareing gave Marcus a facelift in 2014, he described scrapping the stuffiness as his “number-one priority”; for Roux, who is about to open his second incarnation of Roux at the Landau when I speak to him, it has all been about “making it more convivial and accessible.” They are introducing a ‘cheese cave’; rich displays of ham and seafood; a kitchen ‘island’ at which diners can sit and watch the chefs at work. “It will be an immersive experience,” Roux enthuses. The white tablecloths will remain in place, as will the chandeliers and perfect arch windows, but the new Landau will be led by the produce, and the experience of the customer. Of course, none of these transformations would have been complete without a menu change, especially in those hotels where French cuisine is de rigueur. At Marcus, the pre-2014 ten ingredient dishes went the


Photograph (Serge Le Phoque) by Per-Anders Jorgensen

same way as the dark burgundy carpet. At the Landau, they are “paring back and returning to the true essence of French cooking” – for parallel to, and inextricably linked with, the revolution in British hotel food, has been a revolution in French gastronomy. “It stagnated for many years because there was just too much ego,” says Roux – “but it’s really buzzy at the moment. All these young French chefs getting rid of the excess garnishes and concentrating on great produce.” For the grand dames of London’s hotel restaurant scene, one of the major challenges has been appealing to a new crowd of locals and visitors without alienating the old reliables. Retaining a fine-dining offering which reflects these changes in French cooking has allowed veterans to be pacified, but not at the expense of modernity or flavour. In some respects, the story behind the success of hotel restaurants in the last ten years is the story of all restaurants. They’re sourcing quality produce – British where possible – from small, select suppliers and making them the centrepiece: “Where once you had to go through the markets – Billingsgate, Smithfield and so on – these days you can go straight to the fisherman or the farmer,” says Wareing. Meanwhile the introduction of more and more exotic

ingredients has brought an extra dimension to the pantry, and the internet a wealth of culinary inspiration. “We don’t have to wait for something to come to London,” he continues. “We can look around the world through our phones.” Food is fashionable now. The ease with which chefs move between restaurant kitchen and television sets has brought them into “a different marketplace,” says Rankin, whose own appearances on Masterchef and Saturday Kitchen have worked wonders for Ormer. “You’ve got an audience of six million people.” Some chefs I speak to play down

GETTING A CELEBRITY CHEF MAKES IT EASIER TO ATTRACT CUSTOMERS

the idea that a name makes a difference – “Bollocks to that!” exclaims Perneau of Serge Le Phoque. “The food and wine and atmosphere should speak for itself” – but Rankin is comfortable admitting that “when restaurants get celebrity chefs, it makes it easier to attract customers.” And yet there is an irreducible difference between a restaurant in a hotel, and one that’s independent. Regardless of whether, like Roux and Mendes, you see a hotel as “a restaurant with bedrooms”, or like Wareing as a “bedroom with different elements attached to it,” the marriage of food and accommodation adds a layer of complexity that makes the success of hotel restaurants even more remarkable. “You don’t stay all night in a hotel any more,” Rankin points out. “You land and you are immediately looking at where to go next, where to eat, and what to see. Hotel restaurants needed to get on board with that.” The worst kissed goodbye to all but tired business people and the least adventurous of guests; the best welcomed local residents, the guests of other hotels (“the concierges work together,” Rankin smiles. “So the hotel restaurants share clientele”) and yours truly: fully converted, and excited at the prospect of comparing all the different napkin origami. f

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PERFECTLY STILL: The stills at the Isle of Raasay Distillery. The first legal single malt Scotch to be produced on the island is expected in 2020.

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FOODISMUK

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Photography Photograph by Scott by Mooney ###

BARLEY LEGAL Tom Powell visits the first legal distillery on the Isle of Raasay to learn how tradition and history are influencing the birth of a very modern whisky

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O “

N A DAY like this, it is pretty glam,” says Alasdair Day, cofounder of craft whisky brand R&B Distillers, as we jump out of the car beside a road sign reading just that: Glam. We’ve been driving this scenic high road – one of only two on the 14-mile-long, threemile-wide Scottish island of Raasay – since breakfast, gawping at views of tumbledown castles, abandoned jetties and the calm sea lochs of the Inner Hebrides as we go. Turning towards the coast, the morning sun scythes down through the late-winter sky, burning off the remaining clouds and revealing the most distant of Skye’s Cuillin mountains way out on the horizon to the west. It’s not often you get weather this good on Raasay, Day tells me. Winter has been long and hard, just as it always is here on an island with limited infrastructure, a population of around 160, a single village shop selling enough essentials to remove the need for daily trips to Skye on the ferry, and a petrol station that’s operated out of a jerry can in a garden shed. But that’s not to say it hasn’t been fruitful: last winter was the very first in which a distillery created spirit on the island. A legal distillery, that is. Look in the right places, says Raasay Distillery guide, scotch aficionado and writer of The Whisky Dictionary Iain Hector Ross, and you’ll find under-the-radar illicit stills that go way back to the country’s bootlegging past. These stills wouldn’t have been made purely to ensure

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LOOK IN THE RIGHT PLACES AND YOU’LL FIND OLD ILLICIT STILLS IN RAASAY a dram was available for the islanders when the boats weren’t delivering, either. During the 18th and 19th centuries, tax rates on malted grain were raised, causing larger distilleries to opt for unmalted raw grain, which brought into being less than appetising tipples like corn spirit and grain whisky. Therefore, these non-taxpaying illicit stills – often tucked out of sight near secluded water sources – became the de facto homes of real whisky, which was smuggled to market and sold at a high price. While this wasn’t single-malt scotch as we know it – the kind that’s made in a single distillery and aged in oak for at least three years by law – it was nonetheless a Scottish spirit made in one place and given enough time to develop flavour and complexity. And legend has it that Raasay, however many stills it once had (the locals still have a moratorium on their locations today, so we have no official figure), was a hive of production. One that was such a good earner that the good people of Skye used to hang out their washing to let the distillers know the taxman was on his way across the Sound. For everything we know about the windswept undergarms of the old folk of Skye, we know almost nothing about the flavour of the spirits that were produced back then. And as you can imagine, this is hardly the sort of setup that’s going to share its old recipe books with anyone. But that’s where the fun begins. R&B’s Isle of Raasay Distillery whisky, currently an everincreasing array of single-malt spirit casks waiting to turn three and become scotch, isn’t necessarily going to be about cracking the code to those illicit drams of yore. Nor is it going to be a distillery that politely follows the example of fellow Island distillers like nearby Talisker on Skye, or other Hebridean

ISLANDS IN THE STREAM: [clockwise from above] Approaching the island; Raasay While We Wait single malt; Raasay’s new six-room guesthouse

heavyweights on Islay and Jura further south. Perhaps most importantly, though, it’s not a gratuitous manhandling of carte blanche to make an inauthentic product on an island without an immediately visible, tangible or tasteable distilling history. “Bootleggers would’ve made strong grain spirit and added botanicals to make it palatable, but anyone can go and do that, run it through a gin basket with botanicals and call it a gin,” says Day, pointing to an as-yet unused botanical basket hidden behind the pot stills in Raasay’s brand-new, state-ofthe-art still room, “we could, and I’m not counting it out entirely, but we really wanted to do more than that.” More than that, R&B Distillers certainly has done. Named after the distillery in Raasay


KNOW YOUR REGIONS A guide to the geography of single-malt whisky Speyside

Found along the River Spey to the east of Inverness, Speyside is home to more than half of Scotland’s distilleries. These whiskies are often fruity and nutty, and tend to be less peaty than other Scotches. Famous distilleries: The Balvenie, Glenfiddich, The Macallan, The Glenlivet

Highlands

This huge region covers most of the mainland north of Glasgow and Edinburgh. You can expect oaky, smoky, peaty drams that express the dramatic coast and moorland, while still leaving room for rich fruitiness and sometimes honey. Famous distilleries: Dalmore, Glenmorangie, Oban

Lowlands

Just above England, the Lowlands are famous for gentle, triple-distilled malts and lighter notes of grass, ginger, cinnamon and toffee with the occasional citrus edge. Famous distilleries: Auchentoshan

Islands

Photographs (bottle and distillery) by Peter Lawson

(the ‘R’) and the currently unbuilt Borders Distillery (the ‘B’) in Peebles, R&B is seeking to create top-class spirits in places that are no longer renowned for their whisky. “Whisky is an investment,” says Day, “it takes time – at least three years to make – but we think that this will definitely be worth the wait.” And what a wait it’s been. Raasay had never had a legal distillery, and the Scottish Borders were without a distillery from 1837 until 2018, when the Three Stills Company opened a new facility in Hawick. With such a blank slate to produce from, everything the team at R&B does is an experiment; one that began around Day’s kitchen table on the mainland one Christmas in the mid-noughties. He decided to mix together a number of the whiskies he had in his booze cupboard, aiming to concoct a palatable blend of a few of his favourite scotches. Then, it all cranked up a notch: he found his great-grandfather’s cellar book,

which detailed the refining and evolution of a blended scotch made for grocer J&A Davidson in the Scottish Borders between 1899 and 1916. In 2010, he recreated the blend, calling it The Tweeddale and using whisky from the nine distilleries (or close, thoroughly-researched approximations in the case of those that’d shut up shop since 1916) in the original recipe. This: a complex and full-bodied whisky with sweet, sherry notes is now released in extremely limited batches of 1,200 bottles a year. Since then, R&B has contract distilled two expressions of its future whiskies: Borders single grain and Raasay While We Wait, the first another nod to Day’s great-grandfather, the second something to tide us over until we can get our hands on the real thing. But the foundations have now been laid. The building of the distillery, the sourcing of its water from a nearby well dating back to the Iron Age, the conversion of an old guesthouse into a →

Most of these whiskies are tinged by peat, smoke and the salinity of the sea, but their flavour profiles vary wildly. A smoky dram of Talisker from Skye is a far-cry from the heather and honey notes of Highland Park from Orkney. Famous distilleries: Talisker, Highland Park, Jura and, perhaps soon, Raasay

Islay

So formidable it deserves its own region, the exposed Hebridean island of Islay is home to smoky, medicinal whiskies that go heavy on the peat. Drams from the south coast tend to be more intense than those distilled elsewhere on the island. Famous distilleries: Laphroaig, Ardbeg, Bowmore, Bruichladdich

Campbeltown

A tiny region at the tip of a peninsula between Arran, Islay and Northern Ireland, Campbeltown once thrived, but is now home to only three producers. Its malts are pretty unique, giving off salt, sweetness, smoke, vanilla and fruit. Famous distilleries: Springbank, Glen Scotia, Glengyle

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WE’LL END UP WITH A WHISKY THAT’S BOLD FOR ITS YEARS

A WATCHED POT NEVER BOILS: Taking a look at Raasay’s copper pot-stills on a tour of the distillery

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away with imaginative interpretations of this thimbleful of booze: young, crisp and ever-so slightly smoky, yet with a battenburg kind of sweetness, this raw spirit doesn’t roll off the tongue. But then again, it’s not meant to – this is a drink that’ll have to be aged another 34 months before it actually becomes a bonafide bottle of scotch. “Roughly 60% of the flavour comes from casking, and maybe 5% from the water type,” says Iain Robertson, head distiller at Isle of Raasay Distillery, “When I’m drinking a good dram, I’m looking for something wellbalanced, something complex and something with no flavour that’s too powerful. The best I can do is make a spirit that’s the perfect vessel for that when it gets in the barrel. “After that,” he says, “it’s a 70/30 split of science and fate. Or 80/20 if we’re lucky.” That slim glimmer of fate, that geographical and mineral constraint, and the magic that happens when liquid gets into an oak cask has had a big impact on Raasay’s production. Initially dreamed up as a

For more on whisky, tours and accommodation at Raasay Distillery: isleofraasaydistillery.com

Photograph by Peter Lawson

→ visitor centre and two hotels – one for tourists, and another for resident long-eared brown bats – has taken a long time, but now it’s here. Glistening in copper and gold a single farmer’s field away from the waterfront that overlooks the hills of Skye, it may just be the best distillery view in all of Scotland. That’s where I find myself – clouds whipping across the afternoon sky, distillery staff rolling newly filled casks across the warehouse floor, Day holding aloft a nosing glass of 63.5% Raasay spirit above a barrel marked January 2018. As the sun shafts into the cool sanctum of the distillery’s hilltop maturation facility, the spirit in the glass glints rosé pink from the Medoc wine cask it’s been ageing in here for the last few weeks. I wait my turn patiently as everyone else sniffs, swirls, sips, recoils and grins at the brute strength and nascent possibility of the liquid in the glass. Then, when my time comes, I take the tiniest mouthful and my mind bounds into hyperdrive, dropping the exact science behind the spirit and running

weightily-peated Island whisky, the discovery of a high level of manganese in Raasay spring water has caused a slight change of tack: put simply, more peat means less minerality, which in turn means less flavour and complexity when you come to drink it. Now alternating spirit runs between peated and unpeated malt, the whisky taking shape on the island is likely to be lighter than your average Island whisky, although still gently smoky, spicy and fruity. This is certainly what the distillery’s contract-produced single-malt sampler, Raasay While We Wait, tastes like, but the flavour of Raasay whisky, which will be ready first in September 2020, remains fluid: experiments are being made with Tuscan and French red wine casks, high-rye bourbon barrels and even champagne yeasts, which should highlight the manganese minerality found in the spirit. What’s certain, though, is that we’ll end up with a whisky that’s big and bold for its years, and one with a clear vision. Raasay Distillery may not benefit from 200-plus years of history like Bowmore or Balblair; this distillery lays no claim to harnessing the salty air of its age-old cellar or to making something mythical with an encyclopaedic old recipe book; what it does do, however, is give jobs to almost a tenth of the population of a small island, encourage tourism across the water from Skye and – just like most of the old distilleries started out doing – try to make the best product possible, while inflecting it with the environment it’s created in. And that environment, from the fields being tested for barley production this summer to the peat bogs and streams that scatter the landscape around the flat-topped mountain of Dùn Caan, has been waiting to be tapped for thousands of years. f


PROMOTION

THE TIME OF YOUR LIFE With three centuries of distilling history, Mount Gay rum has time on its side. Here’s where to drink it this summer

W

HEN IT COMES to a great rum like Mount Gay, the key ingredient is time: not only the time it takes to age in an oak barrel or the 315-year-old recipe that transforms the drink from raw ingredients to delicious bottled spirit, but the time we spend together kicking back and enjoying a drink with family and friends. This time is not contrived, it’s not a run of show, and it’s certainly not a forced encounter: it’s great conversation, it’s great company, it’s great rum and – most importantly – it’s time well spent. That’s what sets Mount Gay apart from the rest: the good times. The good times and the serious amount of time

invested in every bottle. Dating back to a pot still in Barbados way back in 1703, Mount Gay is certified as the world’s oldest rum producer, and the distillery’s ethos has always been the same. “Our rum is ready when it’s ready, not before,” says master blender Allen Smith, and whether you’re drinking Mount Gay Black Barrel, Mount Gay XO or the newly launched Mount Gay 1703 Master Select, it’s well worth the wait. ● For more information visit mountgayrum.com or follow on social: @MountGayRumUK #MountGayRumUK #Rumspired #MountGayRum

TIME WELL SPENT From 5 July to 2 September this year, Mount Gay will be opening the Barbados Terrace in association with the Roundhouse Camden, giving Londoners a place to chill with dominoes, road tennis, Caribbean finger food and rum cocktails like Mount Gay's Black Storm: a mix of Mount Gay Black Barrel, Fever Tree Ginger ale and an orange wedge garnish. Here comes summer. Open Tuesday-Friday 5-11pm; SaturdaySunday 12pm-11pm. NW1 8EH

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HITTING THE BOOKS The new drinks list at Social Eating House’s bar The Blind Pig is a love letter to the books that defined English childhoods, writes Mike Gibson

TIGER’S TEA PARTY

This eye-wateringly complex serve is made with Falernum, Chilean liqueur Ancho, home-infused coriander Falernum and sour tiger’s milk, a lime-based mix more commonly used for curing the fish in a ceviche.

IN G R ED IEN TS ◆◆ 65ml BIRDS Spirit

◆◆ 25ml Ancho Reyes Verde

◆◆ 35ml Coriander Falernum (made

◆◆ ◆◆ ◆◆ ◆◆

with 100ml Velvet Falernum, and half a bunch of coriander, blended and strained) 20ml sugar syrup 50ml pineapple juice 40ml tiger’s milk 100ml champagne

Shake all ingredients except for champagne with cubed ice, then pour into a teapot and top with the champagne. Add ice if needed and serve in an afternoon tea glass.

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T

HE VERY HUNGRY Caterpillar, Winnie the Pooh, Harry Potter – if you’re the product of a certain era, there’s little doubt that these characters will have permeated your childhood in some way, and even if you didn’t read their namesake books personally, you’ll recognise them. You can find them in an unlikely place: the second iteration of The Blind Pig’s new menu, Long and Short: Great British Tails. Some drinks are designed to place you right back in the pages of those childhood reads. The new take on the classic Harry Potter drink butterbeer, for example – named Best Bottle Butter Bitter – is a complex and long cocktail, made with Monkey Shoulder whisky, Kamm & Sons aperitif, butterscotch, some citrus and, of course, some beer, too. The result is something like a buttery beer, but with all of its flavour points amplified. It’s also something you can happily imagine yourself drinking in the books’ universe. Some others are more ‘inspired by’ – such as the Very Hungry Caterpillar-influenced 5-A-Day, which uses the famous children’s book’s blobs of colour more than its story as an inspiration, the glass coming filled with five differently coloured juice ice cubes and filled with a take on the margarita. At first, it’s in danger of tasting like a bag of sweets, but its more boozy ingredients, led by Patrón Silver tequila, creep in towards the finish to lend it complexity and structure. Off the flagship menu, there’s a strong list of Blind Pig takes on classics, like the Less Than Perfect Manhattan, built around Lot 40 Canadian rye whisky and maple syrup, but with Cynar and fernet adding real botanical oomph, and a touch of brine that makes it feel like a manhattan with a shade of dirty martini. It’s a drink that looks and tastes serious, but you realise is a little more complex, and a little more playful, than you expected – just like the bar itself. f 58 Poland Street, W1F 7NR; socialeatinghouse.com

Photograph by ###

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E E R F R A GO SUG A L O C I R H WIT hing sweet

es Only 6 calories in each refr

LemonMint Melissa officinalis

With our unique blend of 13 Swiss herbs

Sugar Free

Gluten Free

Lactose Suitable for Free vegetarians & vegans

ricola.com


BEST BOTTLE BUTTER BITTER

A reimagining of the first menu’s take on the classic Harry Potter drink, using beer (of course) and a host of other ingredients to lift the flavours.

ING REDIENTS ◆◆ 10ml Monkey Shoulder ◆◆ 5ml Smokey Monkey ◆◆ 5ml Kamm & Sons ◆◆ 15ml mead

◆◆ 2.5ml Cynar

◆◆ 10ml Drambuie

◆◆ 150ml wheat beer

◆◆ 50ml dark lager ◆◆ 80ml IPA

◆◆ 15ml butterscotch ◆◆ 2.5ml soy milk

Mix the ingredients together, chill, and use a soda syphon to carbonate. Serve in a beer bottle.

Photograph by ###

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— KENWOOD TRAVEL —

THE CARIBBEAN: TRAVEL WITH GOOD TASTE A FOODISM GUIDE

The Caribbean combines a beautiful setting with incredible food, and Kenwood Travel knows how to make the most of it.

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CONTENTS ◆◆ Introducing Kenwood Travel and the

food of the Caribbean ◆◆ Isles of plenty: what to expect and what

to eat around the Caribbean

◆◆ Experience this food right at the source

thanks to Kenwood Travel


PROMOTION

Making chocolate in Grenada, p88

Outdoor eating in Jamaica, p87 Seafood in St Lucia, p86

Photograph by (cocoa) Dietmar Denger

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AN APPETITE FOR ADVENTURE From the food to the location, you'll find many ingredients for the perfect holiday in the Caribbean, and you'll make the most of them with the experts at Kenwood Travel

W

HAT DO YOU look forward to most when you’re planning your holiday? Aside from sunshine and some well-deserved relaxation, it’s very probably some utterly delicious food and drink. In fact, we’d go as far as to say that loads of us book our getaways based on the tasty local delicacies we’ll be able to get our chops around while we’re away. Just take a look at your photos from your most recent holiday – we bet you’ll have

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IN THE CARIBBEAN, THE FOOD IS AS VIBRANT AS THE BEAUTIFUL LANDSCAPE

just as many of your food as you will of the beautiful surroundings and your friends and family. For a destination where the cuisine is as vibrant as the landscape, the obvious answer is the Caribbean. The stunning islands have heaps of character, from the warm and welcoming hospitality of the locals to shedloads of restaurants, whether they’re roadside shacks cooking the freshest seafood or fine-dining


PROMOTION

restaurants dishing up creative cooking in a luxurious setting. Then, of course, there’s the backdrop of the blue water, white sand, lush greenery and idyllic weather that makes the region famous. But sometimes it takes a little guidance to plan a holiday that brings all these elements together – and that’s where the experts at Kenwood Travel come in. They’ve spent 40 years creating incredible escapes to the world’s most amazing destinations. Their team of destination specialists combine in-depth local knowledge with highly specialised service to craft some of the coolest holidays around. You could even say Kenwood Travel has mastered the art of the perfect escape. Turn the page for a bite-sized summary of all the Caribbean islands you can visit with Kenwood Travel, and the irresistible food you can experience while you’re there, from mouthwatering Jamaican jerk and the superlative seafood in St Lucia to the rum shops of Barbados and the chocolate of Grenada. If you’re hungry, look away now. Not convinced yet? Just think of how good your Instagram will look... ● For more information on holidays and offers and to book, please visit kenwoodtravel.co.uk

T H E

A R T

O F

E S C A P E

Photograph by (Fish and trees) Slawek Kozdras

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ISLES OF PLENTY Amazing restaurants, tasty produce and world-famous dishes make holidays to the Caribbean last long in the memory – and that's before the adventures even begin

BARBADOS

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SAINT LUCIA From its emerald rainforests and iconic Piton mountains to its tranquil valleys and coastlines, the island of Saint Lucia is characterful, dramatic and absolutely unmissable as part of any trip or tour around the Caribbean. Whether you fancy soaking up views from the top of the magnificent Gros Piton Mountain or ziplining across the canopy of the forest below, this is an island that's absolutely brimming with incredible activities and adventures. The food follows suit, too. Here, you can take cocoa plantation tours and taste fresh seafood right at the water's edge, before diving into the ocean yourself and feasting your eyes on a rich underwater world of reefs and abundant sea life. Good times and great food await. Time you dived in.

Photograph by ###

With year-round sunshine, more than 70 miles of gorgeous sandy beaches and an average temperature of 26°C, Barbados will tick all your classic Caribbean holiday boxes and then some. And for foodies, there's never been a better time to visit than now, because 2018 is the Caribbean island's year of culinary experiences, which means that whenever you choose to visit, there'll be something delicious to entice you. Whether you head over for the annual Food & Rum Festival, which showcases some of the island's best chefs, bars and produce, or the Crop Over Festival – a six-week celebration including dusk-till-dawn parties, food-fuelled street fairs and more – there's something for every kind of traveller, young or old. For active types, there's the Run Barbados Marathon Weekend and the Open Water Festival, too – the perfect way to exercise off all that tasty food you'll have been eating in Barbados' amazing restaurants and cafés, which serve everything from Caribbean classics to international cuisine.


PROMOTION

JAMAICA A sparkling gem at the heart of the Caribbean, Jamaica might be most famous for beaches, bikinis, sunshine and delicious jerk food, but when you arrive on the island you'll see there's way more to it than just that. This is a nation of great natural beauty, from the 600-foot-high Dunn's River Falls to the Blue Lagoon at Port Antonio, which plunges to 200 feet. Food lovers with an appetite for adventure will be rewarded for exploring the 7,500-foot-high Blue Mountains, which are home to both breathtaking views and several industrious coffee plantations. Then there's the music: no trip to Jamaica is complete without a visit to the Bob Marley Museum in the capital of Kingston. Nor is it complete without a trip to a few of the many bars and restaurants serving great cocktails and grub while pumping out the finest tunes in the Caribbean. We're in.

ANTIGUA You're probably familiar with the phrase 'life's a beach', but until you've visited Antigua, you'll probably never quite understand what that really means. This is an island with a stretch of sand for each and every day of the year, so here life really is a beach. Yes, Antigua actually has more than 365 beaches, and each of them – split between the Atlantic Ocean and Caribbean Sea – provides a different type of scenery. So whether it's wildlife, historic architecture or a romantic walk along the sand you're looking for, there's a beach for that. What's more, where there's a beach, there's waterside dining. From luxurious beachside resorts serving the finest international cuisine to rustic restaurants dishing up specialties like ackee and saltfish or sweet potato ducana dumplings, if you're hungry, this island has you more than covered.

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DOMINICAN REPUBLIC From the combed white-sand beaches of Boca Chica on the island's south coast to the summit of Pico Duarte at the heart of this vibrant Caribbean nation, the Dominican Republic boasts charm and wonder in equal measure. A day in the Dominican Republic looks something like this: kick back and relax on the beach sipping local drinks like the rum, red wine and honey cocktail mamajuana, then pop back to the hotel for a dinner of Dominican delicacies like sancocho stew and fried plantain. Evenings, meanwhile, are all about dancing: but whether that's a night out in the clubs and casinos of Las Terrenas and Juan Dolio or a more traditional evening of merengue dancing is down to you. And when you're done with all that hedonism, there's a whole island of national parks and mountains left to explore.

With five artisan bean-to-bar chocolate makers, as well as the producer of the Caribbean's first high-quality chocolate cream liqueur, Grenada has a reputation as the island of chocolate. But the foodie fun doesn't stop there: the country's culture comes alive through its food and friendly people. Make sure you head to restaurants like BB's Crabback, Patrick's Homestyle, Coconut Beach or the world-famous Grand Anse Beach for super-authentic food. For a special treat, go gourmet at one of the island's five-star hotels, or head down to Dodgy Dock for its street-food night every Wednesday: it's the perfect way to dive into the nation's foodie, music-loving culture. Once you've eaten, Grenada is home to the world's first underwater sculpture park, as well as mountains, dirt tracks for off-roading and miles of turquoise sea.

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Photograph by (Grenada) True Blue Bay Boutique Resort; (St. Kitts) Michael Stavaridis

GRENADA


PROMOTION

GETTING THERE

ST. KITTS Home to the Caribbean's only scenic railway, the Unesco-listed Brimstone Hill Fortress National Park and Caribelle Batik Romney Manor, the isle of St. Kitts is packed with heritage, history and all-round great vibes. Your average escape to this rainforested Caribbean nation will balance the unreal natural landscape of mountains and verdant vegetation with the authentic hospitality you'd expect from a small, friendly island community. A lot of St Kitts' distinctive

charm comes by exploring the stunning beaches and reefs off the coast, and there's no better way to see them than by hopping in a sea kayak and exploring a few of the quieter, less-visited coves. Once you've done that, you'll probably have built up quite an appetite. That means it's high time for some conch fritters: this local snack made from friedup bits of a particularly tasty sea snail is sold at most of the restaurants across the island, so it'll be a hard one to miss. Once you're done, you can wash it all down with the local Carib beer or one of the island's local rums – St. Kitts is home to the Brinley Gold and Belmont rum companies. We'll raise a glass to that. Cheers.

Over the last 40 years, Kenwood Travel has developed unrivalled expertise in crafting great value luxury escapes all around the world. Its team of experts specialises in high-end holidays that cater to all budgets, building some of coolest holidays you'll find, whether that's a tropical beachfront resort, a five-star city break, villa rental, guided tour or fun family getaway. The team combines in-depth local knowledge of the Middle East, the Indian Ocean, the Far East or the US with a personal touch that'll ensure your holiday is the best it can be. And the company's Caribbean offering is particularly outstanding, with each package including seven nights' accommodation and return flights to the UK with British Airways. Whether you want to experience the vibrant, welcoming local culture of Barbados (from £1,315pp), the decadent chocolate isle of Grenada (from £2,399pp) or the endless soft, sandy beaches of Antigua (from £1,235pp), with Kenwood Travel you can, and you're unlikely to see better value anywhere else. But the fun definitely doesn't have to stop there: you could be spending a week relaxing on the beach in St Kitts from as little as £1,455pp, chilling in St Lucia from £1,375pp, sampling jerk food and live music in Jamaica from £1,699pp or exploring the verdant national parks of the Dominican Republic from just £1,075pp. Kenwood Travel's range of flights depart from London Gatwick with BA, and offer you exclusive access to exclusive fares and peak dates you won't find elsewhere. What's more, if the comfort and inflight entertainment of World Traveller isn't enough, you can always upgrade to World Traveller Plus and First (selected flights only) to max the time you spend feeling relaxed. So what are you waiting for? A world of opportunity awaits you in the Caribbean. Call the Kenwood Travel team now on 0207 749 7206 or visit kenwoodtravel.co.uk for more.

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— PART 3 —

EXCESS “IT DAWNS ON ME HOW MANY PEOPLE HERE ARE PUSHING THE BOUNDARIES NOT JUST IN WINE, BUT ALSO IN SPACE AND PLACE” JORDAN KELLY-LINDEN ON URBAN WINEMAKING IN CALIFORNIA, 092

092 SANTA BARBARA, CALIFORNIA | 098 UK TRAVEL: WILTSHIRE | 100 RICHARD H TURNER 103 THE DIGEST | 104 BOTTLE SERVICE | 115 THE SELECTOR | 130 DECONSTRUCT


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Photograph by Rob Stark

ROOM WITH A VIEW: The tasting room of the Santa Barbara Wine Collective, a group of producers from all over the city


TRAVEL

Photograph by ###

A LOT OF BOTTLE

In the urban wineries of Santa Barbara, California, a growing collective of producers are making some of the area’s most exciting wines, writes Jordan Kelly-Linden 93


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INE IS A silly business. I could give you more than three pages against getting into it and probably only three positive points fully in favour of it,” declares Germanborn Matthias Pippig as he eyes up a glass of rich, peachy chardonnay. Coming from anyone else that might seem like a reasonable statement – growing wine, making wine and selling wine is tricky stuff. The thing is, wine is exactly the business this man – neon yellow Puma kicks and all – works in. And that honey-gold liquid he’s expertly swirling around the glass right now? Yeah, that’s the product he makes; pressed, vinified and bottled just one room over. Pippig owns Sanguis, a funky urban winery in a converted architects’ office in Santa Barbara’s ‘industrial’ district. The palmlined sidestreet it sits on barely qualifies as industrial even in this blissful, picturesque city on the central Californian coast – which is just a 90-minute straight shoot down Highway 101 from Los Angeles, yet feels millions of miles away in spirit. He set Sanguis up in 2004, buying in a

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huge variety of grapes from all over Santa Barbara county’s Santa Ynez Valley, tasting blind and then experimenting with them in ways that would probably make an old-school winemaker faint. His approach to wine and words (more on which below) has proved pretty successful and most, if not all, of each run (that’s around 2,000 cases of wine) is snapped up soon after its biannual release. Everyone who’s seriously into their wine in this already wine-crazed city seems to know Pippig’s name. That might just be because of his unusual approach to making the stuff or perhaps it’s because the bottles coming out of this striking, three-room winery in the middle of Santa Barbarian suburbia are so entertainingly quirky: spin a bottle of Pippig’s wine around and, instead of the usual tasting notes on the back, you’ll

find a strict music playlist (or sometimes a film suggestion) to drink your wine to. For Pippig, it’s not what the wine tastes of, it’s what it tastes like. The 2013 Misfit – a blend of syrah, grenache, petite syrah, viognier and roussanne grapes – apparently tastes “as serious as a Russian novel” and “as playful as a hummingbird”, and is best enjoyed alongside his favourite Talking Heads song, ‘Houses In Motion’. His 2013 syrah, grenache and viognier combination (known as 1/1) draws parallels with “the calm energy of snow falling softly on a Japanese village” and should be savoured while Johnny Flynn’s ‘Bottom of the Sea Blues’ plays in the background. And his marsanne, chardonnay and viognier 2013 ‘Beekeeper’ blend is reminiscent of lazy Sunday mornings spent making coffee while the sound of a Nick Cave ballad drifts through the air. Who’s to say


GETTING A TASTE FOR IT: The new wave of urban wineries in Santa Barbara include [clockwise from here] Oreana Winery; Municipal; Sanguis Wines

Photographs by (Oreana) Visit California/Hub; (Sanguis) Jassy Lynn Perkins;

which side of the story has brought Pippig more acclaim in Santa Barbara’s modern wine scene, but whatever it is, it’s resulted in him becoming a bit of a legend in these parts. With all that in mind, then, “silly” seems like an odd choice of words for a man who’s dedicated the better part of a decade and a half to creating wine to drink to David Bowie’s ‘Sweet Thing’ and the early music of The Velvet Underground. But, as I duck my head into the final room – a chilly, 50ft by 30ft-ish space where the entire 2017 vintage lies in wait behind a strangely modern, strangely flimsy sliding plastic door – I get the sense that he’s only playing. Yes, the press out in the back lot, which is only used for about two months a year, might have cost him “as much as a fine German automobile”, but as I soon learn, it’s the reward of being able to finally taste the hard work and dedication that’s gone into making your own wine three, four years later that’s got Pippig hooked. And he’s not alone in sharing this love. The county lays claim to some 220 or so wineries. For anyone who’s visited the area (or at least lived it vicariously through Sideways, the 2004 film that put it on the map), that shouldn’t be too much of a

surprise. With its east-to-west mountain range, cooling on-shore breezes, southfacing coastline and Mediterranean-like climate, this section of the central California coast is perfectly primed for grape growing. And, as a result, up in the Santa Maria and Santa Ynez valleys, there are more than 50 different varietals taking root. But what makes this place different from the rest of California wine country is the recent boom in local producers coming down from the misty, rolling hills – where land is, in comparison, far cheaper – to set up shop in the urban centre. Some, like Pippig, are buying grapes in and creating wine in the heart of the city, others are using the grapes they’ve grown themselves, while the rest are simply opening tasting rooms across Santa Barbara to showcase the final product. But what ties them all together is the way these producers have taken a step away from the traditional Californian wine tasting experience – cutting out the need for a car or an UberWINE account (yes, that is what you think it is) – to create a more modern urban wine scene down in the town. There are now 30 of them dotted in and around this sun-beaten Pacific-coast city. That’s a pretty heavy weigh-in; edging up to nearly 15% of the county’s wineries. And that number doesn’t seem to be slowing down. From the privileged vantage point of our hotel terrace – the newly opened Hotel Californian on State Street, one of the only buildings in Santa Barbara to creep over the strict, city-wide two-storey-high limit – you can get a pretty decent view of it all. About a mile west, straight up State Street, there’s the red-clay-tiled rooftops of the Presidio district – the heart of downtown

MANY LOCAL PRODUCERS HAVE COME DOWN FROM THE HILLS TO SET UP IN THE TOWN CENTRE Santa Barbara and home to most of the city’s high-end winemakers. Down in the flower-filled Spanish-colonial courtyards and hidden walkways, you’ll find about eight different tasting rooms, including an innercity-outpost of Margerum Estate, the winery chosen to serve its 2014 Sybarite sauvignon blanc at the Obamas’ White House State Dinner back in August 2016. Far off in the distant east is the up-andcoming ‘Haley Street Corridor’ in Santa Barbara’s sleepy industrial district, where Sanguis and fellow barrel rooms Carr, Potek, Whitcraft and Jaffurs rub shoulders with local craft breweries, empty lots and storage units. And as for us? Well, we’re bang in the middle of Santa Barbara’s urban wine trail, looking down on the dusty rooftops of the Funk Zone, a bohemian, hipster part of town that’s undergone a complete cultural turn around over the last few years. It’s here – where the harbour and California’s iconic beach-side palms meet reclaimed fishing →

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SECRET SANTA: It isn’t hard to see why they call the small coastal city of Santa Barbara ‘The American Riviera’. The famous pier was completed in 1872

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and more people are coming to the Funk Zone for wine flights and snacks. Nowhere is this more apparent than at Municipal on Anacapa Street. At this hip tasting room in the heart of Santa Barbara’s Funk Zone, fairy lights cross the rafters, board games (anyone for a round of Saved by the Bell trivia?) are stacked high in some rickety bookshelves, and bottles of wine are pulled from reclaimed, brightly painted filing cabinets behind the bar upon request. I don’t stay here long – although I could. It’s full of youthful energy, the kind of place the undergrads at UCSB would hang out, and is the polar opposite of the elegant farm table and faux-fur-clad benches of Sanguis’ stripped-back tasting room. That said, there’s fun to be had in both tasting rooms and there’s no doubt these two producers would get on. They’re both experimental, albeit in very different ways: Municipal also uses grapes bought in from all over the county. The winery isn’t located in the city, but the team age their wine in neutral French oak to create grenache blends that taste more like gingerbread than, well, gingerbread. Municipal’s approach to sparkling wine is also just as intriguing and its ‘Mubbly’, an effervescent wine that comes in a cap-topped 500ml bottle, arguably owes more to the craft

beer scene than it does to champagne. I don’t get to try it (one too many sips of daytime pinot noir has pushed me to the limit and I feel I need never imbibe again), but as I step out into the Cali heat, it starts to dawn on me just how just how many people in Santa Barbara are pushing the boundaries not just in wine, but also in space and place. The number of inner-city wineries might be growing in London, but those involved would do well to look to Santa Barbara for a template of truly modern, urban winemaking. f

GETTING THERE

Norwegian operates a daily direct service between London Gatwick and LA International. Fares start from £169 one way or £285 return in economy and £499 one way or £919 return in premium including all taxes and charges. To book, visit norwegian.com or call 0330 828 0854. Rooms at the Hotel Californian start from $398pn; thehotelcalifornian.com. For more information on visiting Santa Barbara and its wineries, go to santabarbaraca.com

Photograph by Jim Corwin

→ warehouses and old industrial plants – you’ll find the highest concentration of tasting rooms; most of which are within walking distance from one another. We’ve made our way through a fair few of these already; kicking things off with an early morning sparkling wine flight around the corner at Riverbench’s tasting lounge. By all accounts an 11am tasting is a pretty early start on a weekend, never mind on a Wednesday, but as I draw a chair up at the bar and start to make my way through a glass of Riverbench’s self-described “Idris Elba of sparkling wines” (a confetti birthday cake-sweet 2015 blanc de blanc demi-sec) my group and I are quickly joined by a fair few others. It seems washing your sticky bacon and cinnamon breakfast buns down with five flutes of bubbles isn’t such an unusual mid-week activity after all. And after I’ve seen off my flight and skipped off to the Santa Barbara Winery across the road, I find out exactly why. According to John Harro, a wine-loving, retired tech guy now part-time worker at the Santa Barbara Winery’s downtown tasting room, the explosion of tasting rooms and ready access to excellent, local wine has completely transformed the city’s drinking culture. Instead of starting their night (or in our case, day) in a dive bar or at home, more


A NEW TYPE OF DINER

We offer incredible new versions of food and drink that you might find familiar. We have sodas made in house with some help from our centrifuge machine. They have around one tenth of the sugar of regular sodas. Our cocktails are crafted with loving care using house made essences, bitters and artisanal spirits. Some of our cakes have no added sugar. Some are completely dairy free. We are really proud of our velvety, house made, organic cashew and tiger nut milk blend.

Our coffee has to be tasted to be believed. We only use the best butter, virgin coconut oil (for our many non dairy/vegan creations) and extra virgin olive oil for dressing. Our tea is brewed in clean glass, to the perfect temperature. Everything we have is completely free of gluten. That's right, everything. Even our house made sourdough, sweet bakes and our buttermilk fried chicken. Our aim is excellence as standard. We make super food for super people.

PLEASE PAY US A VISIT 99 Trafalgar Street, Brighton, BN1 4ER 01273 620 036 www.doughlover.com www.instagram.com/dough_lover_


UK TRAVEL

THE GETAWAY

At The Sign of the Angel in picturesque Wiltshire village Lacock, Tom Powell finds all you'd expect from a traditional inn, brought up to date with contemporary dining What’s the draw? If you’re into 15th-century coaching inns (and let’s face it, who isn’t?) with clever, local modern British cooking, then The Sign of the Angel – mullioned windows, half-timbered frame and all – is likely to be right up your alley. The charming village of Lacock in Wiltshire is protected by the National Trust, so it’s no surprise that this restaurant with rooms is a floor-to-ceiling period belter crammed to bursting with original features.

What to eat Most of the seasonally changing dinner menu comes from local farmers, butchers and artisan producers in Wiltshire and Somerset. This isn’t just country pub grub, though: expect seriously complex flavours achieved

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What else?

CORSHAM

This pretty market town is about a ten-minute drive away from Lacock. Its bustling streets are flanked by sandstone buildings housing antiques shops and places to eat and drink.

◆◆ Population: 13,000 ◆◆ County: Wiltshire ◆◆ Distance: 102 miles

The people of Lacock are an industrious bunch, and you’ll find quaint honesty-box stalls selling their wares throughout the village, whether that’s antique knick-knacks from a window ledge, plants in a lean-to or homemade jam from a garden wall. The village is also home to a Downton-esque abbey, the Fox Talbot Photography Museum and a characterful pub, The George, which has a huge beer garden and an archaic dogpowered spit (obviously no longer in use) in the fireplace. That’s quite a lot for a village of only four tiny streets, but if you’re after more than pottering around for the weekend, you’re not far from the likes of Bath and Bradford-on-Avon for day trips. Rooms from £110; signoftheangel.co.uk Photograph by Marc Wilson

If you're feeling inspired to plan your own getaway, see foodism.co.uk for more food and drink destination guides in the UK and further afield, too.

with surprisingly simple, recognisable ingredients. House-smoked duck is paired with tender, outrageously juicy beetroot and popcorn-style pieces of crackling, while lamb rump comes with broad beans, delightful spuds, mint gel, celeriac purée and two bonus bonbons of deep-fried pulled lamb. Wines are reasonably priced and range from classic to curveball – and by curveball we mean Chilean gewürztraminer. It’s not often that the dessert trumps the lot, but it does here: the elderflower sponge and apple crisp paired perfectly with a Chilean late-harvest sauvignon blanc. In the morning, breakfast is hearty and English, and if you arrive earlier than dinner, you can nab yourself a fortifying afternoon tea out back in the idyllic riverside garden. What could be better?


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IS LE S O F SCI LLY

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COLUMNS

MEAL TICKET

Never one to miss out on a food-driven adventure, Richard H Turner hops on a flight to Östersund, Sweden to seek out a scallop with a serious reputation

I

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to ‘locavorism’ and cooking with primal simplicity leads to utterly remarkable dishes. We start in the downstairs bar with linseed and vinegar crisps and a mussel dip; something called a mycelium broth; wholegrain wheat cracker with swede salad; wild trout roe in a pig’s blood crust; pig’s head coated in sourdough and deep fried; bird’s liver custard; and slices of something called spickeskinka, which appears to be a cured ham. Seven tiny courses in all. Things get serious when we move upstairs to begin our meal proper, starting with the dish that had drawn me here in the first place: scallop i skalet ur elden. A single large scallop cooked and served on burning juniper branches, it’s clean, briny and tastes of, well, scallop. It’s a truly great dish, but stark in the extreme, and Tonks’ still edges it for me. The star of the show is what follows – a king crab leg with almost-burnt cream. This may be the single best sea creature I’ve ever put in my mouth; it’s sweet, soft and tender, and I can only guess at the technique that went into such a deceptively simple dish. I’ve counted 30 courses on the menu, and by this point I’m suffering from menu fatigue and in need of fortification. Luckily for me the bar has every year of super-rare Pappy van Winkle, my favourite bourbon whiskey,

which girds my loins as we forge on through mahogany clams with frozen lingonberries; ash-coated eggs; white asparagus poached in fermented pear juice; and roast quails served with what Nilsson calls ‘Tasty Paste’. After a few more courses downstairs, including little reindeer and birch pies, and a wooden box filled with tar pastilles, meadowsweet candy, dried rowanberries, smoked caramel, sunflower nougat and dried blackcurrants, we are offered snus – chewing tobacco – fermented in a used bitters barrel. I don’t remember much after this point, but judging by the next morning’s hangover I continued to have a bloody good evening. After a life-saving breakfast of Fäviken’s famous porridge with cloudberry jam and a spot of hangover-busting cryotherapy in the nearby lake, we get our car back to Östersund to catch the ‘PJ’. Yep, for 24 hours, at least, I’ve become one of those people. The overriding thought of Fäviken as I leave is that it epitomises restaurant ethics in its purest and most passionate form. That unfortunately, no matter how hard we try, most of the rest of us are just paying the concept lip service. And no, the irony of our mode of transport isn’t lost on me. But sometimes a man just really, really needs a scallop, and only the (second) best will do. f

CHEFS FISH IN A LOCAL LAKE, WITH DISHES DEPENDENT ON THE CATCH

Photograph by Paul Winch-Furness

’VE ALWAYS BELIEVED the finest scallop dish known to man is Mitch Tonks’ roast scallops with white port and garlic, but it turns out there’s another contender; Magnus Nilsson of Fäviken has a scallop dish renowned throughout the world, and I’ve a long-held ambition to taste it. The only problem is this: Fäviken is located on the 19th-century Fäviken Egendom Estate, 20,000 acres of farmland located around 500 miles north of Stockholm in the remote Åre Municipality of Sweden. It’s an absolute bugger to get to. So when a wealthy mate casually dropped his intention to charter a private jet to Östersund so he could dine at Fäviken – and then mentioned he had a couple of seats spare – obviously I leapt at the chance. The restaurant has 16 seats, and dinner is served to those who stay overnight in one of their rooms. There are four chefs, including Magnus and one of my ex Pitt Cue lads, Tom Swanny, and a total of eight staff on the estate, including a gardener. Fäviken is regularly in The World’s 50 Best restaurants lists, and Nilsson’s appearances on Netflix documentaries Mind of a Chef and Chef’s Table have brought him and the exacting process he employs a deal of attention. Apart from sugar, salt, vinegar and one or two other ingredients, the food served at Fäviken is localised to the estate and its surrounding environs. The chefs fish in a local lake, with the dishes changing dependent on the catch, and unconventional cooking techniques are used, like smoking vegetables using leaves that have been decomposing for a year. Because little can grow here in the winter, vegetables in particular are stored for months at a time in a root store – a kind of underground larder – which Swanny shows us around before we eat. Dinner at Fäviken is interesting; we share some similar beliefs in animal husbandry, including the impact an animal’s age has on flavour, and Nilsson’s dedication


EVENTS 

GOING, GOING... Auction Against Hunger returns for 2018, this time on a summer evening at Borough Market, where some of London’s best and brightest chefs will join in the action...

A

S WE LIKE to say, good food is great, but good food that does good is even better. That’s why we’re thrilled to partner up this year with Action Against Hunger, a trailblazing charity that uses food and drink events to raise money to fight famine in the developing world, for its annual auction event. The premise is simple: Auction Against Hunger gathers some of the brightest talent behind the passes of London’s restaurants for a massive party, throughout which attendees can bid on one-of-a-kind prizes and experiences in one-time-only live and silent auctions. The aim is to raise even more money for Action Against Hunger’s efforts. Details of this year’s event in July are still being sketched out, but among those already

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confirmed to be cooking or contributing at the event are modern fine-dining chef Adam Handling, James Lowe of Lyle’s and Mike Reid of M Restaurants, as well as kitchen talent from Isaac McHale’s Luca, The Begging Bowl, Hakkasan and more. Action Against Hunger is a key player in the fight to end world hunger, working tirelessly in more than 50 countries around the clock, as well as responding to humanitarian crises like the displaced Rohingya in Bangladesh, the near 500,000 at-risk children in Yemen, six million in South Sudan and 600,000 in Nigeria. You can support them all year round, of course, but Auction Against Hunger is one of the best opportunities you’ll have to contribute while eating, drinking and mingling with the best of London’s food scene. We’ll see you there. f

THE KEY INFO Want to be there? Auction Against Hunger takes place at Borough Market’s Market Hall on 22 July from 4-9pm. 700 tickets are available, priced at £60 each. For more information and to book, go to actionagainsthunger.org.uk


CLICK

FOODISM.CO.UK

THE DIGEST

Our pick of London’s food and drink industry news for spring

STEP TO IT

BAKE FOR SYRIA

Throw together a 20,000 sq ft canalside warehouse in Hackney Wick with a terrace, barbecue food from top chefs, a bar serving natural wine, craft beer and summer cocktails, and a world-class analogue sound system, and you’ve got all the ingredients for one hell of a party. This summer, Giant Steps – a collaboration between Dalston bar Brilliant Corners and the Analogue Foundation – will be shacking up in Swan Wharf, one of East London’s biggest outdoor spaces, featuring residencies from Morito, Brawn and more until 16 September. giant-steps.com

DINNER AT OURS A distillery might not sound like the chicest of surroundings for a dinner party masterminded by a brilliant chef, but that’s because you haven’t been to Our/London’s home in Hackney Wick yet. The space, tucked in the railway arches, is sleek and stylish – a reflection of the Our/Vodka brand, made up of international micro distilleries that follow a global recipe while taking on the character of each location by sourcing

local ingredients. It’s also the perfect setting for a series of intimate suppers hosted by celebrated chefs Olia Hercules, Lee Westcott (formerly of Typing Room), Jeremy Chan of Ikoyi and Alex Jackson from Sardine. Each chef in the series will host two four-course dinners throughout the summer, and each dish will be paired with an Our/London cocktail infused and created in collaboration with in-house ambassador Fliss Gransden. Tickets cost £50. eventbrite.co.uk

Seriously tasty food and a good cause always make for a winning combination, especially when the recipes come from some of London’s best chefs and when the cause in question is preserving Syrian culture and raising money for Unicef’s appeal for the children of Syria. This year, #CookForSyria is bringing out a second cookbook, #BakeForSyria, that’s packed with Syrian-inspired baking and dessert recipes that come from Syrian families and refugees and top chefs like Nigel Slater, Yotam Ottolenghi, Jamie Oliver and Dominique Ansel. It’s on shelves 20 June. cookforsyria.com

Photograph by Photographs by (GO! Organic) Maria Pavlova

GO GO GO! If you like your food carefully farmed and free from pesticides, we’ve got just the ticket: a festival that celebrates the quality and diversity of organic and sustainable food. GO! Organic, which takes place in Battersea Park on 8-9 September, will comprise a 100-stall organic marketplace, with chef demonstrations, food talks, an organic beer festival and some headline musical performances, too. What’s more, tickets are only a frankly ridiculous £26. goorganicfestival.co.uk

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DRINK

RUM DEAL

Can’t wait for the sun? We get to grips with some classic Caribbean dark rums, plus some non-French rosés and ethical sodas perfect for summer PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARRISON

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cutout

Spirits of the Caribbean

Rum’s rich history in Latin America and the Caribbean stems from the sugar trade. Where there were sugar cane plantations, there was molasses – distil it and the result becomes the spirit we know as rum. Many different examples exist around the Caribbean and Latin America, but we particularly like golden and dark rums, which are aged in oak barrels where they mellow out and pick up notes of rich vanilla and spices.

1 ANGOSTURA 1919, Port of Spain, Trinidad and Tobago. A rum that was born in Venezuela but lives in the sun-drenched Caribbean island of Trinidad. The 1919 expression is a blend of rums aged for a minimum of eight years, resulting in a smooth, toasty flavour. 40%, 70cl; £32.25, thewhiskyexchange.com 2 APPLETON ESTATE RARE BLEND 12 YEAR OLD, Nassau Valley, Jamaica. Although it’s possibly bestknown for its consistently tasty and affordably priced rums, Jamaica’s Appleton has also released some fine aged rums, like this 12 Year Old, aged in American oak. 43%, 70cl; £39, waitrosecellar.com

3 MOUNT GAY XO, Bridgetown, Barbados. An exquisite long-aged rum from the oldest rum distiller in the world, with a history of making Bajan rum in Barbados that dates back to 1703. 43%, 70cl; £38.33, masterofmalt.com 4 SANTA TERESA 1796, Aragua, Venezuela. A rich, complex dark rum made on Venezuela’s Caribbean coast, using the solera process of fractional blending over time that’s more commonly used in sherry and balsamic vinegar. 40%, 70cl; £50.63, masterofmalt.com 5 BACARDI AÑEJO CUATRO, Hamilton, Bermuda. Hailing from Cuba and now the largest family-owned distiller in the world, with production facilities in 20 countries and headquarters in Bermuda, Bacardi is still producing new bottlings. Like this one, a four-year-aged golden rum that’s great value and delicious. 40%, 70cl; £22.95, thewhiskyexchange.com

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La vie en rosé

If you think rosé is either sickly-sweet and produced en masse in California, or only drunk in Provence, think again. Made using red grapes with just a little contact with the skins for colour and texture, rosés are made all over Europe and the New World in a wealth of styles, from fresh and light to fruity and full-flavoured. 1 SILVIO MORANDO BASTARDO 2015, San Rocco, Piedmont, Italy. A modern, natural rosé made from syrah and cortese

grapes. 13%, 75cl; £17, boroughwines.co.uk 2 GRACI ETNA ROSATO 2016, Passopisciaro, Sicily, Italy. A wine made with nerello mascalese grapes grown in volcanic soil around the slopes of Mount Etna, resulting in a crisp, savoury character. 13%, 75cl; £16.43, bbr.com 3 CARRAVACAS DE PRIMICIA ROSADO 2016, Laguardia, Rioja, Spain. A classic garnacha-based Rioja rosé, with fresh flavours of lively red berries and some

floral character. 13.5%, 75cl; £10.49, laithwaites.co.uk 4 FLICK SPÄTBURGUNDER ROSÉ 2016, Rheingau, Germany. A delicate rosé from the Rheingau region of Germany. 11.5% £14.99; thewineryuk.com

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Feel-good soda

1 DALSTON’S HONESTLY MADE LEMONADE, London, UK. A crisp,

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refreshing lemonade made with Sicilian lemons from Dalston’s, a true London start-up success story. 330ml; £4.25 for 4, ocado.com 2 SUMMER ORANGEADE, Auckland, New Zealand. A brand-new flavour (and character) from the makers of Karma Cola, this time an orangeade made

with Valencia oranges from Mexico. 330ml; £1.69, waitrose.com 3 CAWSTON PRESS RHUBARB, London, UK. A juicy, lip-smacking sparkling juice, built around apple with fresher-than-fresh rhubarb juice in there, too – a perfect summer sipper. 330ml; £0.99, ocado.com

4 GUSTO COLA, Hastings, UK. A cola from Gusto, one of the UK’s pioneering organic soft-drinks brands, made from Madagascan vanilla and kola nuts, among other authentic ingredients. 330ml; £2.09, ocado.com

Photograph by ###

Large-scale soda brands might have had a chequered history, but a new wave of ethical brands are creating drinks that taste good and do good, too, from prioritising organic ingredients to ethical sourcing.


MIX

IT BESPOKE BOTANICAL MIXER FOR RUM

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Lime and green herbs give a sophisitcated edge to the rounded sweetness of a good rum. The finish is lengthened with Ecuadorian cacao bitters and lifted with a hint of mint.

WITH BESPOKE BOTANICAL MIXER FOR GIN Juniper balanced with soft sweetness from raspberry and rose, with a dry, leafy finish. Naturally light in sugar, a delightful alternative to tonic in a G&T without the heavy bitterness of quinine.

THIS BESPOKE BOTANICAL MIXER FOR WHISKEY

SUMMER BESPOKE BOTANICAL MIXER FOR TEQUILA & MEZCAL The gentle honeyed sweetness of prickly pear and fig helps bring out the agave flavour in the spirit, with a slightly spicy chocolate bitters finish.

The malt and toasted grain sweetness of Whiskey is rounded out with Sicilian Orange, while the spicy oak cask finish is lengthened by our combination of dry bitters.

#SwitchItUp


SUMMER SERVES Flavourful, complex, versatile and perfect for cocktails, Whitley Neill’s range of highclass gins and vodkas is made for mixing. Here are a few to try before summer’s out...

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ROM OLD-SCHOOL CLASSICS to sensational signature serves, each of these cocktail recipes from Whitley Neil is the perfect match for sunny days in London. Whether it’s a classic G&T made with Whitley Neill Original Dry Gin, or a fruit and botanical-infused cocktail using Whitley Neill Rhubarb & Ginger, Raspberry or Blood Orange Gin, you’re sorted for drinks this summer. Because good things are better when they’re shared, we’ve put together a few recipes for you to try out with Whitley Neill’s versatile, cocktail-ready range of vodkas and gins. From superlative

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raspberry gin and tonics to the classic dry gin martinez, they’ll make sure this summer is looking better already. And while you’re at it, check out Whitley Neill’s brand-new Rye Vodka: a super-smooth, almost silky vodka with a nice hint of spice and sweetness on the finish. It’s now available in selected retailers, in-store and online, as well as Amazon. If you’re asking, it makes the perfect Vodka Martini. ● For more recipes, information and to shop the range visit whitleyneill.com or follow on social media at @WhitleyNeill on Facebook and Twitter, or @WhitleyNeillGin on Instagram

WHITLEY NEILL RYE VODKA MARTINI Ingredients ◆◆ 50ml WN Rye Vodka ◆◆ 15ml dry vermouth ◆◆ Lemon peel

Method Fill shaker with ice and add vodka and vermouth. Shake, then strain into a glass. Garnish with lemon peel.


PROMOTION

RHUBARB AND GINGER SPRITZ

BLOOD ORANGE PALOMA

Ingredients

Ingredients

◆◆ 50ml WN Rhubarb and Ginger Gin

◆◆ 50ml WN Blood Orange

◆◆ 15ml lemon juice

◆◆ Freshly squeezed lime

◆◆ Top Lamb & Watt Hibiscus Tonic

◆◆ 150ml grapefruit juice ◆◆ Thyme & orange wheel for garnish

Method

Method

Fill a glass with ice. Pour all ingredients into the glass and give it a quick stir to infuse. Add garnish, sit back and enjoy.

Stir all ingredients in a glass with ice. Serve with thyme and an orange wheel.

RASPBERRY TONIC Ingredients ◆◆ 50ml WN Raspberry Gin

◆◆ 100ml Lamb & Watt Hibiscus Tonic ◆◆ 2 lemon wedges ◆◆ 4 raspberries

Method Put the raspberries and lemon wedges into a glass and press gently with a muddler or spoon. Fill with ice and add the other ingredients. Stir, garnish with one last lemon wedge.

WHITLEY NEILL MARTINEZ Ingredients ◆◆ 50ml WN Original Dry Gin ◆◆ 20ml sweet vermouth ◆◆ 10ml dry vermouth ◆◆ 5ml maraschino

◆◆ 1 dash of bitters

Method Pour all ingredients together, stir and strain. Serve with a twist of orange.

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BORN IN THE CITY Each of City of London Distillery’s award-winning gins was born in the heart of the British capital – here are three recipes that’ll up your cocktail game this summer...

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FTER THE GIN boom of 18th-century London, which saw a distillery or gin shop on nearly every street, the British capital went without a working distillery for almost two centuries. That’s until City of London Distillery started making high-class craft spirit in 2012. In the last six years, the distillery has gone from strength to strength, scooping

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tons of awards at spirits shows across the globe for the delicacy and complexity of its entire range along the way. In fact, whichever City of London Distillery gin you choose – from the classic London Dry and deliciously sophisticated Square Mile gin, to the zesty Old Tom and the rich, fruity Sloe gin – you’re sure to be drinking a spirit

CHRISTOPHER WREN HAS ALL THE TOUCHSTONES OF A GREAT GIN


PROMOTION

that’ll add quality to your cocktails. But beyond the rich variety of flavours on your palate, the awards these gins have won speak for themselves: and none more than City of London’s Christopher Wren gin, which has just won Double Gold at the 2018 San

MARTINEZ

Francisco World Spirits Competition, cementing it as a true modern classic in the world of artisan gin. Its flavour has all the botanical touchstones of a great gin: juniper, coriander, angelica root, liquorice and sweet orange, but its the long-lasting finish and crystal-clear appearance that sets it apart as a truly premium spirit. While Christopher Wren tastes great alone or served in a glass with lashings of ice, it really comes into its own as part of a cocktail or gin and tonic. That’s why City of London Distillery is sharing three classic serves to get you sorted for great cocktails this summer. From the deliciously bitter negroni to the complex, fruit-laden martinez and the elegant, light and spritzy elderflower gin and tonic, you’re more than covered. And all you need to do is head down to Sainsbury’s – where Christopher Wren gin is now stocked – and grab a bottle. ● City of London Distillery Christopher Wren gin is available now at Sainsbury’s. For more information on City of London Distillery’s range of gins and distillery tours head to cityoflondondistillery.com or follow on Facebook and Instagram at @cityoflondondistillery or on Twitter at @COLDistillery

Ingredients ◆◆ Christopher Wren Gin ◆◆ Sweet vermouth

◆◆ Maraschino liqueur ◆◆ Angostura bitters

NEGRONI Ingredients ◆◆ Christopher Wren Gin ◆◆ Campari

◆◆ Sweet vermouth

ELDERFLOWER G&T Ingredients ◆◆ Christopher Wren Gin ◆◆ Tonic

◆◆ Elderflower cordial ◆◆ Orange zest

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THE SELECTOR This month, we’ve tracked down the best places to bask on a sunsoaked terrace, sip sparkling wine, get into the Caribbean spirit and try some offbeat brunches. Welcome to summer in the city…

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UMMER IS A season to celebrate, whether it’s the end of exams, going on holiday or even just the good(ish) weather. That’s why we’ve found the best places to sip sparkling wines, from a champagne bar in a train station (more glam than it sounds) to the OXO Tower, which pairs bubbles with brilliant British grub. But just in case the sun does shine, we’ve also put

together a selection of outstanding outdoor spaces so you can make the most of it. Because brunch is always a good idea, we’ve rounded up breakfasts that are a little bit different – disco brunch, anyone? And if the weather isn’t living up to its promise, we’ve hunted down London’s best Caribbean restaurants – a sure-fire bet when it comes to evoking feelings of sunnier days. f

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FOODISMUK

THE SELECTOR, SPONSORED BY SANTA TERESA

Photograph by ###

Santa Teresa 1796 is a single-estate Venezuelan rum, distilled and aged at the Hacienda Santa Teresa. It’s a family-owned rum distillery built on over 200 years of tradition. The blend is made with exceptional craftsmanship and aged for up to 35 years. The result is a beautifully smooth and balanced sipping rum that evolves with each sip. While the rum was being made,

Project Alcatraz was born, a unique and inspirational initiative that transforms gang members into team members, rehabilitating and reinserting them into society through the learning of rugby, vocational training, forming of values, psychological assistance and formal education. Today, their redeemed hands are the ones that make this rum into something truly unique. @SantaTeresaRum

GOLD GRADIENT

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Ron Santa Teresa_Final_Assets AK

02.15.2017


BEST OF THE REST  2  St Ermin’s Hotel

 4  Sager + Wilde Paradise Row

2 Caxton Street, Westminster, SW1H 0QW

Arch 250 Paradise Row, Bethnal Green, E2 9LE

Draw up a chair at St Ermin’s Hotel’s revamped London Essence Summer Terrace, order yourself a G&T and get a true sense of place with the new bar and drinks menu. Inspired by the hotel’s rooftop garden, it uses fresh ingredients, herb garnishes and honey from the St Ermin’s bee colony.

Sager + Wilde’s courtyard is the ideal place to quaff your way through an extensive wine list and sample seasonal fare. And it doesn’t get more seasonal than fusilli with dandelion and Spenwood pesto. Pair that with a Nettle Collins and you’re basically eating the British countryside, all from a cobblestone street.

020 7222 7888; sterminshotel.co.uk

020 7613 0478; sagerandwilde.com

 3  Bar Elba

 5  Coq d’Argent

109-117 Waterloo Road, SE1 8UL

No.1 Poultry, Smithfield, EC2R 8EJ

Named after the island that Napoleon was exiled to for 300 days, Bar Elba aims to bring a party island atmosphere to Waterloo. And it works. Killer grilled cheese sandwiches and burgers are provided by Dip & Flip, while effervescent big-jug cocktails are a guaranteed path to fun times.

Apologies to the vegetarians out there, but grilled meat and the summer were just meant to go together. And you can now make that pairing even better by gawping at the pristine panorama of the city you call home while enjoying a 50-day dry-aged Sirloin steak when you head to Coq d’Argent’s terrace bar.

020 3892 8166; bar-elba.co.uk

020 7395 5000; coqdargent.co.uk

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TAKE IT OUTSIDE Making the most of summer in the city is easy with so many terraces and gardens – here are some of the best  1  The Prince 14 Lillie Road, Earls Court, SW6 1TT

Former pub The Prince of Wales has undergone a royal makeover to become a must-visit summer spot. It’s now a true food mecca, providing tasty treats from Patty & Bun, Begging Bowl Canteen, Coqfighter, and Foley’s. If that all-star team hasn’t got you reaching for your sunnies, the presence of The Prince’s summer garden certainly will. @theprincelondon.com; theprincelondon.com

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 1  St Pancras by Searcys Grand Terrace, St Pancras International Station, N1C 4QL

You don’t have to be going places to visit Searcys’ champagne bar in St Pancras train station, but it certainly helps. At the touch of a ‘Press for Champagne’ button, Searcys’ selection could take you from the new-school vineyards of the Surrey Hills straight to the Grand Marques of Champagne – without even leaving the bar’s heated leather seats. 020 7870 9900; stpancrasbysearcys.co.uk

THE SELECTOR

LOVELY BUBBLY Photograph by [Coq D’Argent] Thomas Alexander; [OXO Tower] Michael Kyle; [Salon] Joe Woodhouse; (The Remedy) Derek

Sparkling wine is always a pleasure, even more so if you drink it in the right places. Here’s where you should head for your bubble fix

BEST OF THE REST  2  OXO Tower Restaurant

 4  The Remedy

Barge House Street, South Bank, SE1 9PH

124 Cleveland Street, Fitzrovia, W1T 6PG

There are more than 800 wines on the list at the OXO Tower restaurant, and the best way to get a taste for them is the six-course menu that’s paired with English wines. Kicking it off is Harvey Nichols’ collaboration with Digby Fine English: a sparkling brut NV made from a blend of chardonnay and pinot noir grapes.

David Clawson and Renato Catgiu met while working at Terroirs (a key player in London’s natural wine scene) before they opened The Remedy. Head on in for a drop of grower champagne, cava or a boundary-pushing creation like funky South African ‘I wish I was a Ninja’ Colombard pet-nat.

020 7021 1600; oxotower.co.uk

020 3489 3800; theremedylondon.com

 3  Salon

 5  Noble Rot

18 Market Row, Brixton, SW9 8LD

51 Lamb’s Conduit Street, Bloomsbury, WC1N 3NB

Low-intervention wines are the name of the game at this tiny Brixton restaurant. If the menu’s Spanish sparkling wine or prosecco doesn’t tickle your fancy, pop into Salon’s bottle shop next door and pick up a quirky petnat or sparkling Italian garganega. Oh, and did we mention corkage is free on Sundays?

The sparkling wine list at Noble Rot is basically a love letter to champagne with a few pignolettos, moscato d’astis, and English and Welsh sparkling wines thrown in to keep things balanced. It’s heavily, if not solely, focused on European winemakers and is pretty much an oenophile’s heaven.

020 7501 9152; salonbrixton.co.uk

020 7242 8963; noblerot.co.uk

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THE SELECTOR

ROLLING IN THE ISLES

Live the laid-back Caribbean dream right here in London at one of these island-inspired restaurants  1  Buster Mantis 3-4 Resolution Way, Deptford, SE8 4NT

This gem of a bar is packed with life, soul, Jamaican food and dangerously drinkable punch. It has a space devoted to everything from life drawing to art exhibitions, and Wednesdays see Buster Mantis host Steam Down, a music night specialising in everything from grime to West African music. Dancing on a school night? Go on then. 020 8691 5191; bustermantis.com

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SINGLE ESTATE RUM VENEZUEL AN DOC

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A DRY, SMOOTH AND BAL ANCED TASTE THAT EVOLVES IN EVERY SIP

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BEST OF THE REST

Photograph by [Rudies] Tom Mannion; [Rum Kitchen] John Godwin

 2  Rudie’s

 4  Cottons

50 Stoke Newington Street, Dalston, N16 7XB

157-159 Notting Hill Gate, W11 3LF

Making great jerk is no joke, which is why the Rudie’s team is exacting about everything from the butchering techniques to the marinating process to cooking the meat over coal in traditional jerk drums. And it’s worth it, too – this is the place for some of the most succulent, perfectly spiced jerk dishes around.

If you yearn for the sounds, smells and sunshine of carnival, make a trip to Cottons’ Notting Hill branch. The group first opened its doors in Camden in 1985, so it’s safe to say they know a thing or two about creating utterly delicious Caribbean fare for the masses, and you won’t leave disappointed.

020 7249 9930; rudieslondon.com

020 7243 0090; cottons-restaurant.co.uk

 3  Fish, Wings & Tings

 5  The Rum Kitchen

Brixton Village, 99 Coldharbour Lane, Brixton, SW9 8PR

Carnaby St, Soho, W1B 5PW

Fish, Wings & Tings has, er, fish (kingfish curry), wings (reggae wings) and plenty of ‘tings’ (split pea fritters, stew oxtail and more). Chef Brian grew up watching his Trinidadian grandmother cook, so there’s a clear Trini influence here, from beers to roti, and the vibe is fun and easygoing.

When London’s gloom gets a bit too much, head to Kingly Court on Carnaby Street for a slice of island life that’ll warm the cockles. The Rum Kitchen takes its inspiration from Caribbean beach shacks, complete with corrugated iron accents, pineapples and, obviously, rum. Now where are our flip flops?

07411 642 264; fishwingsandtings.com

020 3668 2537; therumkitchen.com

1 L ARGE CUBE OF ICE 2. POUR T WO PARTS SANTA TERESA 1976 OVER THE ICE

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ENJOY RESPONSIBLY. SANTA TERESA AND ITS TRADE DRESS ARE TRADEMARKS


1  Dalston Superstore 117 Kingsland High St, Dalston, E8 2PB

More regularly considered a place to go for a boogie rather than brunch, Dalston Superstore does a pretty great job of combining the two. Head there every Saturday and Sunday to shake yo’ thang with your favourite drag stars and dine on poached eggs, fried sweet potato and beet hash drizzled with tahini, toasted seeds, and chives. It’ll satisfy pretty much any craving you might have. Culinary or otherwise. 020 7254 2273; dalstonsuperstore.com

1 THE SELECTOR

THE PICK OF THE BRUNCH Choosing where to brunch in London can be overwhelming… These spots offer something that’ll capture your imagination (and appetite)

BEST OF THE REST  4  Milk

45 Curtain Road, Shoreditch, EC2A 3PT

18-20 Bedford Hill, Balham, SW12 9RG

Praise the lord because your brunch prayers have finally been answered. Transforming Shoreditch’s Curtain Hotel into a church of good eating every Sunday, Red Rooster is the only place in London (and quite possibly the world) where you can brunch while being serenaded by the House Gospel Choir.

Brunch is pretty much this Balham outlet’s specialty. That, and coffee. Aesthetic eats like the buckwheat pancakes come topped with seasonal produce like poached rhubarb and are so photogenic you almost feel awful eating them. Well, until you take your first bite and promptly wolf down the rest.

020 3146 4545; redroosterldn.com

milk.london

 3  Mr Bao

 5  KuPP

293 Rye Lane, Peckham, SE15 4UA

Unit 53, Merchant Square, Paddington, W2 1AS

Offering Taiwanese takes on traditional British breakfast fare with dishes like Bao Benedict and the Full Taiwanese (Taiwanese sausage, spring onion pancake, smoked bacon, bao bun, Asian beans, and spiced eggs), this isn’t brunch as you know it. It’s much, much better than that.

KuPP capitalises on the Scandi obsession with a banging bottomless brunch deal. This place is all about the hygge and huge portions. For just £25 per person, you and your Stieg Larsson-loving mates can get stuck into one of KuPP’s smögåsbords plus an hour and a half of unlimited drinks

020 7635 0325; mrbao.co.uk

020 7262 8618; kupp.co

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Photograph by (Dalston Superstore) VANEK London

 2  Red Rooster


l al n s! io er nt v te lo At od fo

LIVE DEMOS FROM:

EARLY BIRD OFFERS AVAILABLE

Adults £26 | Children £13 | Family of four £69 Quote code: GOF001 at www.goorganicfestival.co.uk

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MAIN STAGE INCLUDES: GELF ALDERSON – RIVER COTTAGE

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– GREAT BRITISH BAKE OFF

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– HOSTED BY STROUD BREWERY

100+ Stalls | Main Stage | Organic Food & Drink Natural Talks | Organic Kitchen | Beer Festival hosted by Stroud Brewery | Organic Marketplace Children’s Entertainment | Bug Hunts Free Fair Rides | Children’s Crafts | Treasure Hunts Circus Entertainers…

...and so much more fun for the whole family on 8-9 September! Premier Partners

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Organic. Feed Your Happy campaign financed with aid from the European Union. For more information visit feedyourhappy.co.uk.

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COMPETITION

WIN

CHEESY AS YOU LIKE Wyke Farms has put together five amazing hampers of cheese favourites, and you could be about to win one

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ITH MORE THAN 150 years’ experience in cheesemaking, Somerset’s Wyke Farms knows a thing or two about crafting the perfect Cheddar. And with the family-run dairy’s irresistible Cheeselover’s Hamper, which comes complete with the full range of Wyke Farms Cheddars, a cheese board, chutney, biscuits and a knife, a tasty plate of tangy, flavourful Somerset cheese is just a slice away. Because great food is better shared, we’ve teamed up with Wyke Farms to offer you the chance to win the cheeselover’s hamper for yourself, so you can share family-made cheddar with your friends and family this summer.

What’s more, if you head over to fdsm.co/recipes, you’ll find two delicious

recipes to make with Wyke Farms’ tasty Somerset Cheddars. From Bertie’s cheese-topped veggie burgers (pictured above), to the flavourful and complex Oakhill potato, pea and mint quiche, there’s plenty of cheese-laden goodness to get your teeth around this summer. ● For more information visit wykefarms.com, contact info@wykefarms.com or follow on social media at @wykefarms on Twitter and Facebook or @wyke_farms

HOW TO WIN

WIN

Wyke Farms is giving five readers a Cheeselover's Hamper, containing a 300g pack of Wyke Farms Mature, Extra Mature and Vintage Cheddar, a cheeseboard, a hard cheese knife, a Wyke Farms Udder Mug, a jar of Wyke Farms Caramelised Onion and Tomato Chutney, a pack of Wyke Farms Rosemary Water Biscuits and a cool bag, all worth £50. For a chance to win, all you need to do is head to fdsm.co/wyke-farms

on Instagram

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WIN

WIN


SPIRIT OF DISCOVERY

Rum isn’t just meant for mixing, and Venezuelan distiller Diplomático’s range of high-class and delicious aged rums are here to prove it to you. Happy sipping...

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HEN YOU THINK of rum, what do you think of? Sweet piña coladas on the beach? Heavily spiced rums mixed with cola? Yes, rum can be these things, but it can be so much more, too. And with Diplomático’s hand-crafted range of superb rums, you can see for yourself exactly how. Made at the foot of the Andes near the Terepaima National Park from sugar cane molasses and honeys, the rums possibly have more in common with high-quality whiskies from Scotland and the US in their complexity and the distilling process, with the use of column and pot stills and careful ageing in selected oak barrels from the sherry, bourbon and scotch industries. The Diplomático story starts with Don Juan Nietro Meléndez. Don Juancho, as he’s more commonly known, was a bon

vivant, a traveller, and a man who was always curious to try Venezuelan rums and knit together the specifics of the country’s rich heritage in the spirit. That tradition is kept up today: it’s a rum for curious, the adventurous, and people who search for authenticity, passion and, above all else, great flavour. Diplomático’s three expressions consist of Planas, a clear, lightly aged and charcoal-filtered spirit with notes of tropical fruit, coffee and coconut; Mantuano, a richer, darker, unfiltered rum aged for up to eight years; and the show-stopping Reserva Exclusiva, a beautiful, mellow sipping rum, long-aged with complex, elegant toffee, caramel and spicy flavours. The minute you taste any of these, it’s clear they’re in a different ballpark to something you might throw in a glass with cola.

TRY IT YOURSELF Looking for a new cocktail this summer? Give the Mantuano Homemade Lemonade a go.

Ingredients ◆◆ 50 ml Mantuano ◆◆ 1 lemon, chopped ◆◆ 3 bar spoons caster sugar ◆◆ Still or sparkling water

Method Chop up a lemon into wedges, leaving a large wedge for a garnish. Add caster sugar and muddle to dissolve the sugar with the juice of the lemon. Add ice and rum, stir, and top up with still or sparkling water. Stir again, add ice to fill glass.

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PROMOTION

SIPPING PRETTY: [inset] A bottle of Reserva Exclusiva, the flagship Diplomático expression; [below] Planas, a charcoal-filtered aged rum; the Mantuano Homemade Lemonade cocktail

That’s not to say, however, that they can’t be mixed. If you’ve ever tried a cocktail made at a good bar with Planas or Mantuano, you’ll know how good it can taste when mixed with other superb ingredients. And, if you want to channel the spirit of Don Juancho, there are endless experiments you can do at home. Want some inspiration? Why not try the Mantuano Homemade Lemonade (see left for the recipe) for a refreshing summer sipper? If you want a foodism recommendation, use Reserva Exclusiva in a rum manhattan with just a touch of sweet vermouth and garnish with a maraschino cherry. Or, if you’re truly adventurous, simple taste, experiment and come up with your own creation. Diplomático is a spirit with years of heritage and tradition, carefully crafted

in the Venezuelan way with passion and knowledge garnered over generations. And it’s one that’s just waiting to be tasted and explored. However you end up drinking it – neat, on the rocks, in a refreshing mixed drink or a more serious stirred cocktail, one thing is clear: after trying Diplomático, you’ll soon realise just how good rum can be. Don Juancho would surely approve... ● Diplomático is available at selected retailers including Waitrose, Amathus, Oddbins, Amazon and thewhiskyexhange.com. For more information, go to rondiplomatico.com or follow on Facebook and Instagram at

THE TERRACE Want to try Diplomático’s Planas, Mantuano and Reserva Exclusiva for yourself? From 18 June, you’ll be able to do just that at the Bloomsbury Club Terrace. The Diplomático expressions will be used in tiki-inspired cocktails, in keeping with the bar’s theme, which, for the duration of the pop-up, will be dressed up to look like a Venezuelan drinking den. Whether you’re new to aged rums, new to Diplomático, or a seasoned drinker of both, it’s a great way to taste Diplomático in ways you’ve never tried before. The Bloomsbury Club Bar, 16-22 Great Russell Street WC1B 3NN; thebloomsburyclub.com

@DiplomaticoUK

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RUM AND ROMANCE Designed for couples in love, Sandals resorts are the perfect place to leap into the spirit of the Caribbean

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UN, SAND, GORGEOUS turquoise sea and long, romantic days on the beach: the islands of the Caribbean are some of the most popular places on Earth for sun-soaked getaways for good reason. And when you go there, you deserve to experience the very best. That's why Sandals, voted the World's Leading All-Inclusive Resorts for 22 years in a row, should be your top pick for escapes in 2018. Need to know more? Firstly, every Sandals Luxury Included® holiday includes what other resorts don't. From unlimited land and water sports to 5-Star Global Gourmet™ Dining and bars serving premium food and drinks, everything at Sandals is included in the price of your holiday, so you only have to pay once to be able to play for your entire stay. Then there are the rooms: from exotic, decadently romantic Love Nest Suites® to Millionaire Bluff-Top suites with panoramic ocean views and SwimUp suites with private patios, there's something for every kind of traveller. Imagine whiling away your morning kicking back and swimming in calm, clear waters beside a reef-protected

SANDALS HAS BEEN VOTED WORLD'S LEADING ALLINCLUSIVE RESORTS FOR 22 YEARS IN A ROW 126

Caribbean beach, before an afternoon of tennis, golf, volleyball, scuba diving (PADI-qualified divers can dive twice a day for free) or a whole raft of other water sports. At Sandals you can – and definitely should – do it all. After working up an appetite all day, you can grab dinner at one of up to 16 gourmet restaurants, discover the most authentic culinary delights of the Caribbean, or try up to 22 other cuisines from all around the world. From tasty fast-casual eateries to high-end restaurants with menus by top chefs, you can dine whenever and wherever you choose. And that's what really sets a holiday at Sandals resorts apart. With up to 11 bars to choose from, your nightcap's sorted too: and with unlimited premium brand drinks like Appleton Estate rum and Robert Mondavi Twin Oaks wines included 24/7, the choice is always in your hands. Want to take your foodie break up a notch? Head out to Sandals Barbados for the Rumantic Culinary retreat package this November, and you'll get the chance to learn how to cook Caribbean cuisine from scratch with expert guidance from Shivi Ramoutar. Before preparing Shivi's signature dish, foil-baked jerk snapper with breadfruit chips, you'll visit a local food market to see the great produce on offer. As well as cooking and eating great food, you'll head to a rum distillery for a tasting with RumFest founder Ian Burrell, before whipping up a few cocktails of your own. Sign us up. ● For more information on Sandals Luxury Included® holidays, visit sandals.co.uk or phone the team on 0800 742 742

A STROKE OF LUXE: [clockwise from here] Sandals resorts are located on the best beaches in the Caribbean; sample culinary delights; premium spirits come free


PROMOTION

A SPECIAL STAY Sandals’ Rumantic Culinary retreat package costs £1,875 per person and includes seven nights’ accommodation at Sandals Barbados and return flights from London for two people from 17th to 24th November 2018. The exclusive package includes two cooking and rum masterclasses with worldleading rum ambassador Ian Burrell and modern Caribbean Chef Shivi Ramoutar, as well as a visit to a local distillery and local food market. Price also includes Luxury Included® (all-inclusive) accommodation, resort transfers, a welcome cocktail reception and a gala dinner to round off the week at Sandals Barbados. For T&Cs and to book, visit sandals.co.uk

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PROMOTION

A TASTE OF BARCELONA Brewed at origin and made with 100% local ingredients to a centuries-old recipe in Barcelona, Estrella Damm is the perfect expression of its Mediterranean surrounds

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HAT MAKES A great lager? Tradition? Carefully sourced, 100% local ingredients? Crisp, refreshing flavour? Well you’re in luck, because Estrella Damm, a beer brewed at origin with Mediterranean

ingredients to an original recipe since 1876, has all three. And it’s that commitment to its home city of Barcelona – its vibrant nightlife, sunshine, culture and reputation for good times – that makes Estrella Damm

the true Mediterranean lager. This beer is a pure expression of the Mediterranean – one that’s brewed, kegged and bottled at origin, and pairs perfectly with sunshine and food. Made with five quality ingredients, Estrella Damm has kept its 142-year recipe safe and ensures quality in every sip. That’s why Estrella Damm employs a full-time quality trainer and a quality manager to teach staff how to keg and pour the beer to perfection. Available on draught, in cans and in darker glass bottles that protect the beer from flavour-tarnishing light exposure 30% better than before, Estrella Damm is Barcelona in a beer. And that’s surely all the reason you need to drink one or two this summer. ● For more information on Estrella Damm, head to estrelladamm.com

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ESSENTIALS

HEADING TO TASTE OF LONDON 2018? MAKE SURE YOU DON'T MISS ANY OF THE BEST BITS WITH OUR TOP TEN

BREWGOODER

In 2016 we set out on a mission - to provide clean water for 1 million people through the power of craft beer by donating 100% of our profits to clean water charities. No other lager style tastes quite like ours, no other beer provides others with clean drinking water! @brewgooder @brewgoodr

THE BEGGING BOWL

Vibrant Thai food travels via Peckham to Taste of London. Thai Buddhist monks share food in begging bowls, and this idea of sharing food with friends fits vibrant Peckham restaurant The Begging Bowl. The menu revolves around Thai sharing plates made from scratch, served with unlimited sticky and jasmine rice. W: thebeggingbowl.co.uk @ beggingbowl

CORAZON

Soho’s Corazon offers an inventive Mexican menu in a casual environment inspired by vintage Mexico and California. Their vibrant Tostadas, Tacos, and Platos Mayores (big plates) are prepared entirely on site, utilising handmade salsas, spice blends and moles, and slow, flavourful cooking. This is hearty cooking where flavour and fun take priority. W: corazonlondon.co.uk @corazon_uk

PAPPARICH Since 2005, PappaRich has travelled the world to share authentic Malaysian delights. Visit us at Taste of London on Friday 15th June, to take your taste buds through a Malaysian culinary journey, courtesy of the first PappaRich outlet in Europe. Come and experience classics such as crispy roti canai to chicken satay W: papparich.co.uk

SORELLA

SMOKE & SALT

KRICKET

MR SCRUMPY

Sorella is a neighbourhood Italian inspired restaurant set on Clapham Manor Street brought to you by the team behind The Dairy and Counter Culture. Our menu takes a traditional format; cicchetti, antipasti, primi, secondi and dolci but is also hugely influenced by the produce arriving in from our farm. W: sorellarestaurant.co.uk @sorellaclapham

Bringing seasonal British ingredients to life with the flavours and energy of modern Mumbai, Kricket stands as one of London’s most-loved casual Indian restaurants. Having just launched a new restaurant, test-kitchen and bar in Brixton, chef Will Bowlby and Rik Campbell continue to drive Indian food forward with lively, casual and above all creative cooking. @kricketlondon

BAR DOURO

The mastermind behind Bar Douro is Max Graham, whose childhood in Porto and travels around Portugal have inspired the menus, which draw on local culinary secrets and the finest Portuguese produce.

W: bardouro.co.uk bardourouk @bardouro

Smoke & Salt celebrates the ethos of “modern dining, ancient techniques”. Their cuisine is a reflection, representation & re-imagination of the London dining scene, bridging together cultures and traditions. Try their ‘Taste Exclusive’ - Lamb Merguez Flatbread with Spiced Lamb, Fermented Harissa & Radishes. W: smokeandsalt.com @smokeandsaltldn

Established in Hackney Wick in 2016, Mr Scrumpy have since brought their Original Cider Slush to music and food festivals across the U.K. At Taste of London for the first time this year, check out their frozen cider available in Apples & Pears and Blackberry Blush flavours. mrscrumpy @wearemrscrumpy

CAFE PACIFICO

First Mexican Restaurant and Bar in the UK. Serving delicious Mexican cuisine and Latin cocktails since 1982 from their residence in Covent Garden. Recently having won Best Margarita in London in 2017 and also this year 2018. Join them at Stand J4 for some amazing cocktails. W: cafe-pacifico.com cafepacificolondon @officialcafepacifico

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GOOD TO GROW: The kiwano could be vital for helping with food shortages in sub-Saharan Africa because it grows well in difficult conditions, retains its water content in the dry season, and is also packed with essential nutrients like vitamin C.

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NOT-SO-BITTER FRUIT: The horned melon’s taste is said to be like a mix of cucumber and kiwi, becoming sweeter and more banana-like as it ripens.

IN GOOD HEALTH: Kiwanos are packed with good stuff, from antioxidants to fibre, zinc, calcium and vitamins A and C. Research has also suggested kiwanos can help to regulate stress hormones.

Photograph by ### Photograph from Shutterstock

This juicylooking fellow is a kiwano, also known as an African horned cucumber or melon (due to the hornlike spikes that cover its orange skin), jelly melon or a hedged gourd


®

The st~germain spritz

®

40ML

ST~GERMAIN Elderflower Liqueur

60 ML 60 ML

Dry Sparkling Wine

®

Sparkling Wine

Stir ingredients in a tall ice-filled collins glass, mixing completely. Garnish with a lemon twist.

#stgermain

@stgermainuk

ENJOY RESPONSIBLY. SOYEZ RESPONSABLE.

© 2018. ST. GERMAIN AND ITS TRADE DRESS ARE TRADEMARKS.


IN EVERY BOTTLE

ENJOY RESPONSIBLY. SOYEZ RESPONSABLE.

© 2018. ST. GERMAIN AND ITS TRADE DRESS ARE TRADEMARKS.

Foodism - 27 - London, food and drink  
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