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ISSN 2397-1975

L O N D O N , O N E B I T E AT A T I M E

Uncork your potential Discover the world of wine with Berry Bros. & Rudd’s award-winning courses, held in our historic London cellars.

Editorial EDITOR


Mike Gibson



Lydia Winter Tom Powell SUB EDITOR


Clare Finney, Ian Dingle, Lucy McGuire, Richard H Turner, Tom Hunt, Amanda Brame, Lucas Oakeley


Matthew Hasteley DESIGNERS

Emily Black, Annie Brooks, Nicola Poulos JUNIOR DESIGNER

Louis Moss


Ryan Van-Kesteren, Danny McCormick PRINTING


Mark Hedley


Alex Watson


Charlotte Gibbs


Carolyn Haworth, Lily Hankin, Beth Sells, Lewis McClymont, Jason Lyon, William Preston SENIOR COMMUNICATIONS EXECUTIVE

Melissa van der Haak


Kate Rogan


AJ Cerqueti


Steve Cole FINANCE

Caroline Walker, Taylor Haynes DIRECTOR


Stephen Laffey CEO


Tom Kelly OBE

foodism uses paper from sustainable sources


he first festival I ever went to was not a gastronomic affair. I shared a tent with my mate Nigel and, from what scant details I can dredge up from the depths of my memory, drunk cheap lager we brought in and survived largely on Tracker bars and pound coin-thin ‘burgers’ that pretty much just tasted brown. I don’t remember caring – it was the very early 2000s and we were there for the music, plus things like craft beer, sushi burritos and Ottolenghi hadn’t been invented yet. These were different times; we didn’t know any better. Things have changed a bit since then, and our expectations of what constitutes festival food have evolved accordingly. Fancy picking up some artisan local produce between experimental techno DJ sets? You can do that. Want a tasting menu from a Michelin-starred chef to go with your cosmic jazz odyssey? Not a problem. If you’re into music and food, in 2018 you can have your cake and eat it. Which isn’t to say every single festival does food well. It’s still perfectly easy to get hold of heroically bad fast food served with a grimace, and plenty of people are absolutely ok with that – it’s not what they’re there for. If you’re reading foodism, however, we suspect you’re looking for something a little more interesting to munch en route from one stage to another, so we’ve curated a list of this summer’s best festivals for great eating and drinking (p46). From food festivals with decent music to music festivals with brilliant food – and everything in between – you’ll find plenty to sink your teeth into and wrap your ears around. f








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FRONT COVER: Photography by Ian Dingle

© Square Up Media Limited 2018. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. All information contained in this magazine is, as far as we are aware, correct at the time of going to press. Square Up Media cannot accept responsibility for errors or inaccuracies in such information. If you submit unsolicited material to us, you automatically grant Square Up Media a licence to publish your submission in whole or in part in all editions of the magazine. All material is sent at your own risk and although every care is taken, neither Square Up Media nor its employees, agents or subcontractors shall be held liable resulting for loss or damage. Square Up Media endeavours to respect the intellectual property of the owners of copyrighted material reproduced herein. If you identify yourself as the copyright holder of material we have wrongly attributed, please contact the office.



Silky goat’s cheese made with milk from our herd, coated and matured with ash for a distinctive finish.

Available in Booths, M&S, Morrisons, Sainsbury’s, Tesco and independent delis. @ButlersCheese

— PART 1 —




Ditch that orange mocha frappuccino and put these new-school London cold-brew coffees to the test instead



A trip to a genuine relic reminds Mike Gibson that London’s food scene has a history that’s unmatched


We think it was Hippocrates who once said “Let coffee be thy medicine”. Or maybe we’ve just picked that up from a coffee shop chalkboard. Either way, it’s exactly what you should be doing with Union Hand-Roasted Coffee’s ethically sourced, single origin Guatemalan cold brew. It’s sweet, smooth and perfect cocktail-mixer material. £2.75;

3. NEW NORT H The sharp hiss that escapes New North’s nitro cold brew can is something else. Crack one of these bad boys out in the office and heads will turn. Yes, you might just have scuppered the office coffee run, but you’ve done so in style. With coffee and almond on the nose and a smooth, light finish, New North – which is available in Selfridges, may we add – nails the cold-brew coffee game. £3.99;

(Union coffee) DNAnderson


1826 (it’s older than Canada and Australia by a distance, which blows my mind). The dining room is loungey and cavernous. I had a meaty fishcake with flecks of tangy, pungent sauce gribiche and an enormous lamb chop, its cap of fat offset (sort of) by a streak of mustardy Welsh rarebit sauce and a tiny handful of lamb’s lettuce. A pianist played reimaginings of Elton John songs. There wasn’t a queue to get in. I wouldn’t say it was ‘cool’. But it was great. Along with its neighbour, the much newer (but with an old soul) Holborn Dining Room, Simpson’s is putting out plates of British comfort food better than pretty much anyone. There was a touch of new-school flourish, especially in the wine (a funky, skin-contact pinot gris, for example). The food has changed as much as it’s needed to, and not much more than that. The hype of a thousand new openings a year is exciting, and London is nothing if not dynamic, but it’s also a city that’s been doing things its own way for centuries, and it’s nice to be reminded of that. Even if there wasn’t room to dance. f


Photograph by (Minor Figures) SImon Shiff;

ECENTLY, WHILE BROWSING Twitter, I saw a photo doing the rounds. It was of a list of ‘Famous Restaurants in London’ from the Official Guide of the British Travel and Holidays Association, dated 1963. The completely arbitrary descriptions for some of the restaurants made me want to visit immediately. I even felt a pang of sadness that it’s too late for me to check out Peter Evans’ Eating House (“Scotch steaks and scampi a speciality”, apparently), Celebrite (“wine, dine and dance”, which appears as a descriptor for quite a few of them) and especially Brief Encounter (simply “moderate charges”). Notable, though, were a few legendary restaurants, still moving with the times today. Bentley’s, ‘Leoni’s Quo Vadis’ and Simpson’s in the Strand were all on there – the latter of which I happened to eat at for the first time very recently. I don’t really have a frame of reference for the specifics of eating in London in the 1960s (apart from, evidently, the knowledge that lots of dancing was involved). But I do know Simpson’s balances roots in the oldest of old schools – having been open since

East London coffee company Minor Figures is determined to get people drinking better versions of the dark stuff. As you’d expect from a mission statement like that, its cold brew isn’t any old slow-drip number. Available in three entirely vegan flavours (black, oat latte and oat mocha), its canned coffee is supercharged with nitrogen, giving it a rich, creamy head. 12 for £12;



TH AT’S WHAT THEY SAID Snippets from our writers and personalities across the industry, on


This month: Allplants


MIKE GIBSON on the new book-inspired cocktail menu at Soho bar The Blind Pig


The one thing you absolutely must not miss is the scotch bonnet ice cream – unexpectedly creamy, with a punchy chilli kick to finish. Can we have more, please? LYDIA WINTER eats her way through the menu at Zoe’s Ghana Kitchen in Hackney

Home to one of the city’s best reuben sandwiches, Monty’s Deli specialises in doing the simple things right. Just take this T-shirt. It’s simple, it’s sweet. It’s a T-shirt with a pickle on it. What more do you really need to know?

LUCAS OAKELEY on merch that declares your love for London food and drink



What’s the product? Delicious, plant-based frozen dishes (also known as vegan food to you and me) that are packed with flavour, full of well-thought-out textures, and served in jazzy recyclable packaging, brought to your doorstep by way of a carbonneutral delivery service.

Who makes it? Brothers JP and Alex Petrides set up Allplants in 2017 and they’ve already dished out more than 100,000 plantpowered meals from their kitchen in Seven Sisters, North London.

What does it taste like? The foodism team buddied up to put three of Allplants’ extensive range to the test. We set two committed vegans on the Keralan Sundown (a punchy south Indian curry made with sweet potato, red lentils and topped with crunchy sugar snap peas), while a bunch of flexitarians demolished the satisfyingly creamy cashew mac and cheese, and the Mediterranean aubergine orzo with seared polpette balls. Our verdict? Near-enough faultless. Our only issue was that our brown rice balls didn’t fare well in the microwave – however, all of Allplants’ dishes are oven-friendly, too. So there’s that.

Where can I get it? Sign up online and plan your meals at Prices start from £4.99 and you can sign up to just one order or a regular subscription. f


Introducing the new Mastery Range from AEG Welcome to the world’s most responsive kitchen, designed to work in harmony with the most ambitious home chefs. With intelligent technology built in, AEG Mastery Range kitchens take taste to an exciting new level. Buy now at selected retailers and redeem up to £150 cashback on selected models. Terms and conditions apply. Discover more:




14 Lillie Road, SW6 1TT

The Prince has undergone a royal makeover to become one of London’s must-visit summer spots. The venue is now a true food and drink mecca, providing tasty treats from the kitchens of street food specialists Patty & Bun, Begging Bowl Canteen, Coqfighter, and Foley’s.



20 Upper Ground, SE1 9PD This bright, buzzing and beautiful rooftop bar at Mondrian on the South Bank, is close enough to the river for you to enjoy that traditional sense of maritime spirit, but not close enough that you’ll actually get wet. Head on up for British-American-inspired serves like ‘Thanks a Tot!’and New England lobster rolls.



Strand, WC2R 1LA

In partnership with beer brand Peroni, Somerset House’s airy riverside terrace has been transformed into an immersive Italian experience until the end of September. In true Italian fashion you can dine on a range of sharing boards and pizzas in the heart of one of London’s most famous landmarks.


Ben Pugh on ditching the city to set up ethical online grocery company Farmdrop



also worked on the stock flotation for Ocado back in 2010. During these years I gathered a lot of insight into the supermarkets’ ways of working and saw how, ultimately, they were propping up a broken food system. I’ve always been passionate about the environment and started Farmdrop in 2012 because I was unhappy with the lack of fresh and locally sourced food available in the shops. I’d spoken to local farmers and was struck in particular by one conversation with a grower who was selling his butternut squashes to a supermarket for £1 while the retailer was then selling them on for £3. I thought it was

absolutely astonishing that in the internet era there could be such an unfair distribution of value between the producer and the retailer. That was the real tipping point for me to start the business. At Farmdrop, we see it as our mission to fix the food chain. That is why we source local food wherever possible and deliver it directly to our customers’ doors in electric vans. We only harvest produce to order, which helps minimise food waste, and gives local farmers an unprecedented share of the retail price. That producer share gives our farmers the financial breathing space to produce food in a way that is good for the land, the animals, and ultimately our health. f For more information, visit

Photograph by (The Prince) Pasco Photography

GREW UP IN London, near Battersea Park, but at weekends would escape the city and go to visit my grandma in Wiltshire. She lived right next door to a dairy farm and I would often spend my time helping the local farmer milk his cows. After leaving university, I worked in the boating industry, delivering yachts across the oceans in New Zealand, the South Pacific and South Africa; I’d fish off the back of them to sustain myself through those long journeys. But despite my love for the outdoors, I ended up working in the City as a broker covering retail stocks at various banks. I

WEAPONS OF CHOICE A wine preservation system, kitchen garden and the ultimate portable BBQ – we want it all PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARRISON


SAVE YOU R NE C K CORAVIN MODEL TWO ELITE, £279 With a tiny needle and the clever application of inert gas, the Coravin allows you to pour fine wine (or any cork-closured bottle you don’t want to drink all of) by the glass, and keep the rest indefinitely.

CORAVIN AERATOR, £69.95 This aerator accessory fits onto the Coravin’s housing to apply oxygen to the wine as you pour.

Photograph by ###


T HE HE R BAL ISE R AEROGARDEN COUNTERTOP GARDEN, £139.95 This ingenious countertop, hydroponic herb garden comes with a UV light and individual compost and seed cones. Your kitchen’s days as a graveyard for supermarket potted herbs are over – praise be.


’CUE IT UP EVERDURE BY HESTON BLUMENTHAL, £149.99 This simple-to-use, portable charcoal barbecue comes with prep tray, chopping board lid and grill, with the added benefit that it won’t scorch the grass of your London park of choice.


Pure Natural Brazilian Hydration There’s nothing like the feel-good feeling of natural Brazilian hydration. We harvest tender, young green coconuts straight from our sustainable farms in Bahia, Brazil. Bursting with nutrients we take the refreshing water straight from the nut when it’s at its very best – it’s 100% pure and we don’t add anything. Not only does it

taste great, it helps us support the surrounding communities, keeping farmers and communities at their best too. And for that we say ‘thank you’ or Obrigado to the sweet coconut.

For more information, visit us at


YOUR NEW FOOD BIBLE In her new book Made in London, Leah Hyslop maps out the capital’s inspiring dishes, from restaurant eats to classic London recipes PHOTOGRAPHS BY MARTIN POOLE


“ T’S HARD TO identify a single food, or cuisine, that defines London,” states food writer and editor Leah Hyslop, in the foreword to her new book. “What does unite the city’s sprawling food scene is creativity.” As is well documented in Made in London – a love letter to the capital’s food culture, contemporary and historic – creative people have driven our capital’s eating and drinking scene to a place firmly among the world’s best. And perhaps our favourite thing about the book is that Hyslop doesn’t talk solely about the historic bakeries, migrant

communities or contemporary chefs who’ve shaped and moulded this exemplary food culture over the last few centuries – she brings them all in to the same conversation. The recipes you’ll find in the book are Hyslop’s own versions of dishes that she feels can attempt to define the city: from the buns made in a Chelsea bakery in the 1700s to stuffed aubergines from the Korean diaspora in New Malden, and contemporary classics from the likes of St John, Som Saa and more. It’s essentially a hand-picked list of the best food to come from the capital. Dig in… f




Photograph by ###

Enjoy the natural, feel-good feeling of Brazilian hydration with Obrigado’s pure coconut water. Produced from fresh young coconuts, the drink is harvested and produced on Obrigado’s very own sustainable farms in Bahia, Brazil. Obrigado prides itself on its unique patented extraction method which creates the

freshest coconut water possible. The liquid is never exposed to light or air when leaving the nut, meaning that no preservations are added, and it’s never from concentrate. Obrigado means ‘thank you’ in Portuguese, the language of Brazil; Obrigado is grateful to mother nature and strives to maintain the most natural ingredients.


Leah Hyslop’s

KOREAN AUBERGINES With a little heat, loads of umami and contrasting textures, these stuffed aubergines make for a rich, beautiful snack or starter

ING R E DIE NTS ◆◆ 4 medium aubergines ◆◆ 2 tbsp vegetable or

sunflower oil

◆◆ 2 tbsp sesame oil

◆◆ 6 spring onions, white and

green parts, finely chopped

◆◆ 1 red pepper, finely chopped

◆◆ 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped ◆◆ Thumb-sized knob of fresh

ginger, grated

◆◆ 1 tsp chilli flakes

◆◆ 500g lamb mince

◆◆ 4 tbsp gochujang ◆◆ 3 tbsp soy sauce

◆◆ 1 tbsp rice wine vinegar ◆◆ 2 tsp honey

◆◆ 2 tsp tomato purée

◆◆ Handful of coriander, roughly

chopped, to serve (optional) ◆◆ Salt and freshly ground black



Preparation ◆◆ 15 mins


◆◆ 45 mins

serves ◆◆ 4


HILE MUCH OF the focus on London’s contemporary restaurant scene is on the centre, there are whole neighbourhoods throughout Greater London that have, over time, become hotbeds of great food. One such example is New Malden, near Kingston. “This quiet patch of southwest London is actually home to the biggest population of ex-pat Koreans in the whole of Europe,” writes Hyslop. “Peer a little closer and you’ll spot Korean restaurants, a Korean karaoke bar and Korean shops selling the area’s very own Korean newspaper.” This dish inspired by the area is, Hyslop admits, “not authentic,

but it’s a great way to use all those spicy, salty Korean flavours in an easy week-night dinner.”


1 Preheat the oven to 200°C. 2 Cut the aubergines in half lengthways, leaving the tops on, and score the surface of the flesh with a knife. Put into a roasting tray, skin side down. Drizzle over the vegetable or sunflower oil and season with salt and pepper. Cook for 30–35 minutes, until golden and soft. Leave to cool slightly. 3 While the aubergines are cooking, heat the sesame oil in a large frying pan, and fry the spring onions and red pepper for about 5 minutes, until soft.

4 Add the garlic, ginger and chilli flakes and cook for 30 seconds, then add the lamb mince. Cook, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes, until the meat starts to brown. 5 Stir in the gojuchang, soy sauce, vinegar, honey and tomato purée, and cook for a further 5-10 minutes, until the lamb is cooked through and the liquid mostly absorbed. 6 Scoop out the aubergines’ flesh, leaving a border about 1cm thick, and roughly chop. Stir into the lamb mixture. Season with salt and pepper, then spoon the mix into the aubergine shells and bake for 10 minutes. 7 Serve with a sprinkling of coriander leaves, if using. f

Leah Hyslop’s

DEEP-FRIED SEA BASS Modern Thai restaurant Som Saa provides the inspiration for this deep-fried whole sea bass with fragrant Thai salad


IVEN UP YOUR summer dinner party with this beautiful Thaispiced sea bass, inspired by one of the mainstay dishes at Andy Oliver’s acclaimed restaurant.


Photographs by Martin Poole

1 Put the rice into a dry frying pan or wok and toast over a medium heat until golden (about 5 minutes). Transfer to a mortar and pestle and pound into a powder. Set aside. 2 Add a splash of vegetable or sunflower oil to the pan, and cook the chillies until dark red and crisp (about 10 minutes). Remove and drain on kitchen paper. Crush the chillies in a mortar and pestle to form a fine powder – you should have about 1 tablespoon. Set aside. 3 Heat the oil in a deep, wide saucepan or wok to 180°C on a thermometer, or until a cube of bread sizzles and turns golden within 60 seconds. Score the sea bass with three or four angled cuts on each side, then roll it in the soy sauce and sugar. Drop the fish, slightly curled if you can, into the oil and fry for 8-10 minutes, until the skin is crispy and the flesh is golden brown. 4 While the fish is frying, prepare the salad. Combine the lemongrass, shallots, spring onions, lime leaves, mint, coriander and sawtooth coriander, if using, in a mixing bowl. 5 For the dressing, mix the lime juice and sugar until the sugar is dissolved, then add the fish sauce, 3 tablespoons of water and your tablespoon of chilli powder. Taste and adjust the seasoning: it should be hot, sour and slightly salty. Set aside. 6 Carefully remove the fish from the



d fish Crispy skinne lad sa ur so t, ho and a this combine in r dinner showstoppe

ING R E DIE NTS ◆◆ 1 tbsp sticky Thai white rice ◆◆ 6 dried red chillies

◆◆ Vegetable or sunflower oil, for

frying (at least 1 litre)

◆◆ 1 whole sea bass (about 500-

600g), gutted and scaled, but head, fins and tail left on ◆◆ 3 tbsp light soy sauce ◆◆ Pinch of caster sugar ◆◆ 2 dried red chillies, crumbled, to garnish

For the salad ◆◆ 2 sticks of lemongrass, finely


◆◆ 4-5 shallots (preferably Thai

red), thinly sliced

◆◆ 2 spring onions, thinly sliced

◆◆ 3-4 fresh or frozen kaffir lime

pan, and allow to drain and cool on kitchen paper for 1 minute. Place on a large plate and pour one third of the dressing over it. Add the remaining dressing to the salad, toss, and serve over the top of the fish. Garnish with the toasted rice and dried chillies, crumbled into fragments. f


Preparation ◆◆ 20 mins


◆◆ 10 mins


leaves, cut into very fine strips ◆◆ Small handful of fresh mint, chopped ◆◆ Small handful of fresh coriander, chopped ◆◆ Small handful of fresh sawtooth coriander or Thai parsley, washed and thinly sliced (optional)

For the dressing ◆◆ 5 tbsp lime juice (about 3


◆◆ 1½ tbsp caster sugar ◆◆ 4 tbsp fish sauce

◆◆ 2-4


Leah Hyslop’s



Spice and sultanas abound in these rich, sticky buns. No wonder they’ve been so popular since their creation in the 18th century



◆◆ 2 hrs


◆◆ 30 mins


◆◆ 9


YSLOP DESCRIBES THESE as “our answer to the croissant or Danish pastry. They were created at a West London bakery called the Old Chelsea Bun House around the start of the 18th century, and were so popular that people would queue in their hundreds to lay their hands on one.” Queuing? For a bakery? Whatever next?


Pure Natural Brazilian Hydration

1 Put the milk and butter in a small pan over a low heat, until the butter is melted and the mixture is lukewarm. 2 Put the flours, sugar and salt into a mixing bowl. Make a well in the centre and add the yeast. Pour in the butter and milk mixture and the beaten egg, plus the mixed spice and lemon zest. Stir until combined into a soft dough. 3 Knead the dough for 5 minutes using a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook on a low speed, or for about 10 minutes by hand, until the dough is soft and elastic. Put the dough in a lightly oiled bowl and cover with cling film or a damp tea towel. 4 Leave to rise in a warm place for an hour or so, until doubled in size. 5 Give the dough a quick knead with



Made in London by Leah Hyslop (Absolute Press, £26) is out 17 May

your hands, then roll out onto a lightly floured surface into a large rectangle (about 30×20cm and 4mm thick). 6 Spread the softened butter evenly over the dough. Scatter over the brown sugar and the spices, then the fruit. From the longest edge, roll the dough as tightly as possible to create a log shape, as if making a Swiss roll; use a dab of water on the long edge of the dough to seal the roll if needed. Using a sharp knife, cut the roll into 9 slices. 7 Arrange the rolls, spiral side facing upwards, in a baking tin or tray that measures about 35x25cm. Try and leave just a small gap between each

one – the rolls traditionally squish together during baking so you can ‘tear and share’. Cover the tray and leave to rise for 30 minutes. 8 Preheat the oven to 190°C. Bake the rolls for 20-30 minutes, until risen and golden (if the fruit looks like it is burning at any point, cover the rolls with kitchen foil). 9 Leave the buns to cool slightly while you make the icing. Simply combine the icing sugar with the lemon juice or water – it should be very thick. Move the buns onto a cooling rack and drizzle with the icing. Enjoy while still warm. f

ING R E DIE NTS For the dough ◆◆ 270ml milk ◆◆ 60g butter

◆◆ 300g strong white flour ◆◆ 200g plain flour

◆◆ 3 tbsp caster sugar ◆◆ 1 tsp salt

◆◆ 7g sachet fast-action dried


◆◆ 1 egg, lightly beaten

◆◆ 1 teaspoon mixed spice ◆◆ grated zest of 1 lemon ◆◆ oil, for greasing

For the filling ◆◆ 30g butter, softened

◆◆ 60g soft light brown sugar ◆◆ 1 tsp ground cinnamon ◆◆ 1 tsp mixed spice

◆◆ 200g dried vine fruit of your

choice – a mix of sultanas and currants work well

For the icing ◆◆ 100g icing sugar

◆◆ 2–3 tbsp lemon juice or water

Photograph by ###


Pure Natural Brazilian Hydration

Leah Hyslop’s




It makes a great summer refresher, but pimm’s isn’t merely for drinking – turns out it’s rather brilliant in a trifle, too

t in Pretty perfec e, d tast an s ok lo th bo ifle is a this fruity tr ner st summer un


◆◆ 300ml lemonade

OTHING SAYS ‘SUMMER in London’ quite like Pimm’s. This recipe uses the liqueur to make a jelly for a proper English trifle, with lemon curd-infused cream.

◆◆ Juice of 1 orange


I N GREDI EN TS ◆◆ 5 sheets of gelatine ◆◆ 260ml Pimm’s

◆◆ 50g caster sugar

◆◆ 250g sponge cake (such as



◆◆ 3 hrs


◆◆ 10 mins


◆◆ 8-10


1 Put the gelatine leaves in a bowl of cold water and leave to soften for 5 minutes. 2 Meanwhile, gently heat 200ml of the Pimm’s with the lemonade, caster sugar and orange juice in a saucepan over a medium heat, until the sugar has melted and the mixture is just about to bubble. Squeeze the water out of the gelatine, add the sheets to the Pimm’s mixture and stir until melted. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and put into the fridge for about 2 hours, until the jelly is nearly set.

Photograph by Martin Poole

madeira) ◆◆ 500g strawberries, washed and hulled, plus an extra handful, sliced, to serve (optional) ◆◆ 700ml good-quality custard ◆◆ 600ml double cream ◆◆ 200ml mascarpone ◆◆ 4 tbsp icing sugar ◆◆ 3 heaped tbsp lemon curd ◆◆ Grated zest of 1 lemon ◆◆ Mint leaves, to serve (optional)

3 Cut the cake into thin slices, around 1cm thick, and use them to line the bottom of a large glass bowl. Pour over the remaining Pimm’s and leave to soak for a few minutes. Quarter the strawberries lengthways and scatter over the top. 4 Take your cooled jelly from the fridge and pour it over the strawberries and sponge. Return to the fridge for 1 hour to allow the jelly to firm up further. 5 Pour the custard over the jelly, then whip the cream, mascarpone and icing sugar in a bowl until it forms soft peaks. Gently mix in the lemon curd and the lemon zest and spoon onto the custard. 6 Decorate the trifle with the sliced strawberries and a few leaves of mint, if using. Chill until ready to serve. f

Pure Natural Brazilian Hydration There’s nothing like the feel-good feeling of natural Brazilian hydration. We harvest tender, young green coconuts straight from our sustainable farms in Bahia, Brazil. Bursting with nutrients we take the refreshing water straight from the nut when it’s at its very best – it’s 100% pure and we don’t add anything. Not only does it

taste great, it helps us support the surrounding communities, keeping farmers and communities at their best too. And for that we say ‘thank you’ or Obrigado to the sweet coconut.

For more information, visit us at


OPEN SEASON In this month’s guide to seasonal produce and where to find it, chef and writer Tom Hunt takes on courgettes Photograph by (Tom Hunt) David Harrison; (Amanda Brame) Lewis McCarthy


OURGETTES ARE AN abundant summer vegetable and very easy to grow. If you’re short on space you can even grow them in garden pots. The main advantage to growing your own is that you will be able to pick and eat the brilliant yellow, meaty flowers and make them into my favourite; courgette fritters. You can also buy the flowers from farmers’ markets. When buying look for small, firm courgettes, which are likely to taste sweet. I’d always recommend looking for organic, as conventionally

grown courgettes have been known to contain relatively high levels of pesticides. Courgettes are best kept in the fridge but will store at room temperature if necessary. While they’re firm and fresh use them raw in dishes like my courgette spaghetti. As the courgetters grow older, cook them fast to keep a bit of their crisp summery freshness and deliver it to the plate. They take really well to a searing hot char-grill or pan. f The Natural Cook by Tom Hunt is available now (Quadrille, £20). For more on Tom and his food projects, see


Petersham Nurseries’ Amanda Brame tells us how to make the most of a small city garden This truly is my favourite time of the year. Despite the snow a few weeks ago, the soil has already dried out and warmed up, creating the perfect conditions for direct sowing seeds. Now’s the time to direct sow runner beans, French beans, and beautiful borlotti seeds into deep containers that are filled with good-quality, multipurpose compost. As these are climbing plants they will need supports for the beans to grow on – either netting, bamboo canes or hazel bean poles at least 1.5m in height. If you don’t have the space try dwarf varieties –you’ll be amazed at how much they produce. But don’t forget: beans are very thirsty plants and will need lots of watering, plus a weekly liquid seaweed feed. Sow another batch towards the end of the month to extend the harvest a little longer. If you’re looking for a new challenge, you could also try compact courgette and patti pan squash in 50cm containers. Continue to successional sow oriental leaves, beetroot, spring onions, radish peas and rocket. Sowing just a few seeds every three weeks will avoid a glut and keep your plate interesting. Amanda Brame is head of horticulture at Petersham Nurseries Covent Garden; Read more at


AT THE TABLE YBFs judge, San Patrignano ambassador and Jamie Oliver’s culture manager Danny McCubbin talks to Jordan Kelly-Linden about food that gives back


NLESS YOU KNOW the ins and outs of London’s food scene like the back of your hand, the name Danny McCubbin may not ring any bells. But if you or your kids were chowing down on school dinners around 2005, you’ll certainly have felt the effects of his hard work. McCubbin has been a key player at Jamie Oliver HQ for 15 years, playing a crucial role in the School Dinners programme and Jamie’s Fifteen apprenticeship scheme. These days he acts as Jamie Oliver’s culture manager, helping to bring Jamie’s food ethos to life across the business. But McCubbin actually spends most of his spare time looking after charity projects. About five years ago he became the UK ambassador for Italy’s San Patrignano, the world’s most successful drug rehabilitation community, and this year he joined the Young British Foodies judging panel, helping to create a new category that recognises initiatives and individuals using food to do good.


Here, he fills us in on how it all began, tells us why he thinks food is the best way to break down barriers, and shares his favourite social enterprises in London.

Tell us about working on Jamie’s School Dinners and the Fifteen Apprentice programme… I was really lucky in that I knew Jamie’s art director from Australia and I had experience in project management and digital media. I started working for him as a bit of an allrounder, then his PA left and he asked me to step in. I did that for four years and it was when we’d just started the School Dinners campaign. That was an extraordinary time and it just felt like the cameras were second nature. They weren’t really that important; what was really important was how we were going to get this campaign off the ground. But when I started, we had also just graduated our first set of apprentices from Fifteen. The apprentice programme and

the Fifteen restaurant is not-for-profit. Fifteen used to focus on unemployed youth, but now the focus is on just giving young people an opportunity, no matter what their background. Fifteen Cornwall is still a charity, too, and it still trains hard-to-reach young people in both front-of-house and back-ofhouse roles. Fifteen London is where it all started though. We’re still not-for-profit and we are now part of a national apprentice programme where big businesses invest back into apprenticeships. In my role I’m involved in the commercial side, but I’m also connected with Jamie’s core ethos around food. I work four days of the week for Jamie as his culture manager, then Friday is my day where I invest in all of my community projects, such as San Patrignano and the YBFs.

What do you think is the best way to communicate food as a tool for good? We’re in a challenging place at the moment

with the refugee crisis and the rise of popularism. Food is a way of breaking down barriers and a way of connecting. It’s the one thing that we all have in common, no matter what country you’re from, no matter what your background, everybody needs to eat. The food industry has changed drastically in the last ten years. There’s this whole push for a term called ‘social gastronomy’, which is the social side of food. One great example is Massimo Bottura’s Food for Soul project. It’s extraordinary. I took a group of chefs from Fifteen to Earls Court where they have the Refettorio Felix project. He’s making waves worldwide. At the Rio Olympics, he also worked with a friend of mine called David Hertz [of Gastromotiva] and they cooked all the surplus food and served it to the homeless people of Rio.

How did you get involved in the San Patrignano UK cooperative?

Photograph (portrait) by Ella Miller

San Patrignano is based in Italy and it’s one of the world’s most successful drug rehabilitation communities. It offers 52 different skills that young people can get involved with and learn to turn their lives around. And food, because it is Italy, is a big part of what the community does. Around seven years ago I was going on holiday, and I just reached out to the team in San Patrignano, and said I would love to come along and eat at one of the restaurants. It’s similar to Fifteen where they train young people from very challenging backgrounds, and they invited me to come and learn more about the community. I went there and I was completely bowled over by the scale of it. There are 1,500 people in the San Patrignano community and there are so many different skills that they learn, but it’s just the sheer positive impact it has had, too. It has a 72% success rate. Most of the young people have been affected by heroin. But this is a longterm, free social enterprise. Residents’ stays are usually three years. I started volunteering for the community, learning about it and spending all my spare time there. About six years ago, I got all the products into Selfridges. Then, three years after that, the community asked if I could set up an association here in the UK. I help people from the UK who are dependent on drugs and who want a long-term solution to go to San Patrignano and I also help the young people from the community who are coming to the UK to find jobs. We have a lot working at Fifteen and at Jamie’s Italian as well, and on top of that I’ve got the products into Fortnum & Mason.

The cooperative has opened its doors to people all over the world. It’s a beacon for rehabilitation, and they now run forums where people who are involved with similar schemes can come and live in the community for a week to learn about how it works before going back to their country. People are starting to hear about the products, too: Fortnum & Mason have the wine, we have the wine here at Fifteen, and they are about to launch in Jamie’s Italian as well. Fortnums has been a wonderful supporter, and we even took the CEO over there. I think it’s quite interesting how a rehabilitation scheme gets people to make wine. Traditionally rehab and rehabilitation communities are based on abstinence and the twelve steps. But this place is extraordinary in the sense that they say, “Look, you’ve made a mistake – come here and learn how to deal with life again.”

You’re now involved in the Young British Foodies. Are you excited to join the judging panel? Absolutely. I love their whole ethos. The YBFs are not about age; they’re about emerging talent. I love the way the awards are able to adapt as well, and the new Giving Back category shows how open they are. I think there are some incredible food-based projects in this country, but no one really shouts about them and they’re not really given the space. There’s a lot dedicated to food waste, which is great, but no one is really highlighting the others. I think it’s time we did. Sometimes we’re a little bit humble in the UK about these projects; that’s why the YBFs are a really great fit for me, and it’s great that we could start this new category.

Can you name some amazing social enterprises in London? One of my favourite social enterprises is House of St Barnabas. It’s a private members’ club, but all of the staff are vulnerable people. They’re mostly homeless, but everything in the operation is geared towards training up these vulnerable people and putting them through a 12-week hospitality course, which is recognised by City & Guilds. It’s similar to San Patrignano. When you go to San Patrignano it’s not this meagre little place where everyone just sits there and does remedial jobs; it’s actually a very beautiful community. With House of St Barnabas, you would assume that a private members’ club would be exclusive, like Soho House – and it is – but it’s also there to break down the barriers. Your waiter might be someone who was on the streets two weeks before. f Nominations for the 2018 Young British Foodies awards are now open. For info:











THE RADAR We take you through the best new bar and restaurant openings from now until the end of June Dining

If you’ve found this it’s probably too late – by now Nathan Outlaw protégé Tom Brown will have opened his first solo venture Cornerstone, a 46-cover restaurant in Hackney Wick, There’s a certain romance to the spot, as it combines natural, organic and biodynamic wines with the best of British seafood and is named after Brown’s favourite Arctic Monkeys song. E9 5LX;




This spring sees the expansion of modern kebab house Le Bab. For their next venture, Stephen Tozer and Ed Brunet will be teaming up with head chef Manu Canales Garces (formerly of Michelin-starred Le Gavroche) to bring their floury flatbreads to a vibrant new space in Covent Garden. And as if more Le Bab for all weren’t enough, we’ve also heard whispers that the restaurant will come complete with a secret chef’s table. But if anyone asks, you didn’t get that from us… WC2H;



Butchies, Darjeeling Express and Soft Serve Society are just a few of the fantastic food traders due to set up shop in the new Market Hall in Fulham Broadway’s Grade II-listed Edwardian Underground station. It doesn’t stop there though, because the hall is the first in a series of new food markets about to open across central London. SW6 1BY;





Looks like the girls and boys of the City have a new watering hole. ”Savage serves” and “brutal botanicals” lead the way at this sky-high drinking den above the DoubleTree in Tower Hill. EC3N 4AF




Bloomberg Arcade has added another jewel to its crown: Brigadiers, a barbecue restaurant inspired by the army mess bars of India. It’ll open this spring. EC4N 8AR @brigadiersldn

Photographs by (Lina Stores) Anton Rodriguez; (Le Bab) Justin De Souza; (Ox Tongue) Cedar FIlm



Iconic Brewer Street deli Lina Stores has been supplying Soho with authentic Italian produce for more than 75 years, and now the team behind it are taking things one step further and opening a restaurant. The eagerly anticipated 51-seat spot will be led by head chef Masha Rener and takes inspiration from classic Italian eateries, serving up regional specialties alongside freshly made pasta. The menu already sounds irresistible – get ready to drool over the likes of white truffle gnocchi and slowcooked rabbit ragu pappardelle. W1D 4EH;

Alex Peffly and Z He, co-founders of Bun House and Tea Room, are set to bring traditional crispy Chinese crepes with savoury Cantonese influences to Greek Street in the form of Pleasant Lady Jian Bing Trading Stall. W1D 4DZ


London Wine Week is back this May, enlisting some of the capital’s best venues for a city-wide celebration of the world’s favourite drink. Here’s what not to miss


HETHER IT’S THE World Cup or the royal wedding, the most memorable events in the London calendar are the ones that have the power to unite the city in celebration. And that’s exactly what we love about London Wine Week. The initiative – from the brains behind London Cocktail Week and London Beer Week – is not just a selection of events in central London, but an all-out celebration of wine that includes an eyewatering number of bars, restaurants and pop-ups. The aim is to get the capital not


only drinking it, but talking about and getting better acquainted with the world of wine. Here’s our pick of the essential things to do (and drink) during the week.

The London Wine Week Hub This year, the home for the week’s activities will be Flat Iron Square, a hub of street-food, restaurants, bars and businesses a cork’s throw from London Bridge. From 15-20 May, it’ll be transformed into a gorgeous garden, featuring a rotating line-up of pop-up bars throughout the week and, if you’re that way

inclined, a screening of the royal wedding on the Saturday (because a garden full of wine is surely the most fitting place in London to toast to the happy couple). The resident bar, Tap & Bottle, will also be the first stop on the initiative’s Wine Tour events.

Festival events The week’s main attractions are arguably the festival’s Wine Tasting Flights and Sip & Snack pairings. Available throughout the week at some 125 venues, they’ll mean you can enjoy the best of the action at anywhere from fancy

central London wine bars to neighbourhood haunts. London Wine Week flights are a snip at £5 each for Festival Pass holders.

Berry Bros. & Rudd’s wine pop-up The pop-up event’s, er, popularity might have gained most of its traction in the 2010s, but that doesn’t mean that London’s oldest wine seller isn’t getting involved in the action. Berry Bros. & Rudd, the historic merchant with a history dating back to the late 1600s, is putting on a pop-up bar at Tap & Bottle on 15 and 16 May, open all evening and serving wines by the glass and by the flight from a hand-picked selection of its most treasured wine producers, from the USA and Greece to France, South Africa and more.

Loire Valley Wines takeover If you’re going to have a wine region taking

over much of the happenings throughout the week, you could do a hell of a lot worse than the Loire Valley. The iconic French region, just to the north of the country, is home to some of France’s best-loved winemakers and styles. This year, the capital will see an influx of winemakers from the across the Loire Valley region partner up for some of the week’s best events, from a Loire Valley wine-paired oyster event at Wright Brothers to a Muscadet pop-up, a tasting masterclass event with the Three Wine Men in Canary Wharf, a pairing dinner at Peruvian restaurant COYA and, of course, a £5 Loire Valley Wines flight at Bedales. f See the full programme of events and buy your pass at

Photograph by (London shop) Simon Peel; (sign) Addie Chinn


London Wine Week runs from 14-20 May in more than 125 venues across the city. Your ticket to the best of the action is a Festival Pass, which gains you entry to loads of London Wine Week events and discounted wines. The London Wine Week Hub is located at Flat Iron Square, 68 Union Street, SE1 1TD Festival Passes cost £10 and are available at or via the DrinkUp.London app



The second and third instalment in our Foodism 100 spotlight series is ethical fried chicken shop CHIK’N and Fareshare, the country’s biggest food waste charity









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In association with







CHIK’N This posh chicken shop from the people behind ethical fried-chicken restaurants Chick ‘n’ Sours might dine to the beat of fastcasual, but on the subject of sustainablity and animal welfare, it’s anything but laidback. WHO ARE THEY?

Carl Clarke and David Wolanski. The pair met at Latitude Festival in 2010 and decided to ruffle the feathers of the UK’s fried chicken industry with their first Chick ‘n’ Sours back in 2015. Two years later, the concept


of a “guilt-free”, affordable chicken shop was hatched. CHIK’N, much like its sister restaurants, extols the virtues of free-range, high-welfare chickens from a single Somerset farm with whom the team has a very close relationship. Staff are paid more than London Living Wage and it has installed an on-site biodigester that’s so far processed more than 7,000kg of food waste, with all used cooking oil collected and recycled into biofuels. WHAT’S ON THE MENU?

Whether you want a buttermilk-brined

chicken sarnie with a side of loaded, Sri Lankan-inspired fries; a box of crunchy chicken tenders washed down with a cool can of craft beer; or even a hangover-busting freerange egg and sausage sourdough muffin, CHIK’N has you covered. Oh, and it caters to veggies, too, with soy-pickled shiitake buns taking the place of that crunchy fried chicken. WHERE CAN I FIND THEM?

CHIK’N is open seven days a week, so you can strut on over to 134 Baker Street any day, from lunchtime until late.

Photographs by (volunteers with crates) James Darling; (volunteer and tomatoes) Gemma Thorpe


Fareshare “Sharing is caring” is the mantra this charity – which has its headquarters in Depford, South East London – lives by. Using a network of volunteers, it redistributes thousands of tons of otherwise wasted food to partner charities in London and beyond.











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In association with


It’s thought that at least 8.4 million people in the UK can’t or struggle to afford to eat. To put that into persepective, that’s about the same number of people living in the whole of London right now. And yet, every year, 1.9 million tons of food is wasted by the food industry – 270,000 of which is still perfectly edible. Fareshare is the UK’s longest-standing food redistribution charity, working to close this gap by redirecting the surplus produce to those who need it most. It was co-founded by homeless charity Crisis and Sainsbury’s in 1994 to tackle the food poverty crisis sweeping through the most disadvantaged parts of the city. Twenty-three years on from where it all began, Fareshare is now an independent social enterprise with 21 regional centres, and counting, located across the country. Last year the network redistributed enough food to make 28.6 million meals across 1,300 towns and cities, with the help of more than 6,723 nationwide charities.





Fundraise, volunteer or make a donation at And if you’ve got time after that, support its #feedpeoplefirst petition. At the time of writing, the date to sign it will have already passed, but Fareshare is currently lobbying the government to introduce economic incentives to make it cheaper for businesses to donate food to charities. f Find out more about the shortlist and see all the winners at












London’s best breweries and where to find them


Blenheim Grove, SE15 4QL

The brewery Brick is a family-run craft brewery that started in a railway arch around the corner from Peckham Rye station in 2013. In 2018, production was moved to Deptford so the taproom (still on the Peckham premises) could be extended. These days, you’ve got 20 taps serving the core range to choose from, as well as one-off Brick brews and a carefully selected list of guest beers. Outside is legendary Peckham BBQ trader Slow Richie’s,

where you can get your laughing gear around seriously dirty burgers and regularly changing specials like skewered devilled hearts. It’s open for after-work drinking from Tuesday to Friday, and for all-day sessions at weekends.

single-hopped pale to the new 8.5% DIPA. The pick of the bunch, though, is the Sour Series, which sees a new beer launched every six weeks in 2018. Next up? Strawberry and cucumber. Hello summer.

The beer

What else?

The brewery’s core range includes all of your regular touchstones, from a classic Americanstyle pale to a spicy, earthy pilsner and a rich dark ale called Blenheim Black, which is named after the road the taproom is located on. There’s a sideline in glorious one-offs and more experimental brews, too, from a

Brick recently worked with Fareshare, a charity fighting hunger and food waste based next to the brewery in Deptford, to use surplus lemons from the food industry in its Citrus Sour. A can of beer that tastes good and does good? Yeah, we’re into that. f




THREE TO TRY SAISON DUPONT Tourpes, Belgium A classic from a brewer that’s been making saison since 1844. Refreshing, fruity and tart, with a long, crisp finish. 6.5%, 330ml; £2.29,

Your all-knowing guide to the complex world of beer styles, classic and modern. This month: saisons


Inspired by the farmhouse ales of yore, a saison is a traditional thirst slaker with its roots in the fields of Belgium. Back then, this style was brewed in the spring months for consumption during harvest, when farm labourers would be dehydrated and need a low-alcohol pick-me-up that was safer to drink than dodgy water. Basically, think of it like a peppery, effervescent archetype of Red Bull. These days, the style varies between about 3.5 and 8.5%, with that characteristic tang, spice and bubbliness coming from a combination of warm fermentation, herb infusions and a second fermentation inside the bottle.



You heard it here first – much-loved NYC brewer Brooklyn has just dropped the hottest mixtape of 2018. Alright, it might not actually be a boomboxready cassette full of summer jams, but it’s about as close as a box of beer can get. In the new Mixtape Volume I 12-pack, you’ll get two 330ml cans each of Brooklyn Lager, American Ale and East IPA, plus the floral and piney Scorcher IPA. Grab a pack and hop on the bandwagon. £19.40 from and Asda stores nationwide.


G IPSY HIL L X DU RAT I O N BAR NSTOR M E R Gipsy Hill, London, UK Three strains of yeast and the use of cherry wood in the boil makes for a complex and tangy modern saison with a touch of citrus sourness. 4.7%, 440ml; £2.99,


Laptop nomads of London unite: there is an alternative to endless flat white runs, snarky counter staff and unproductive afternoons of ‘working’ from the pub. To celebrate the launch of the new workspace at the revamped Big Chill Kings Cross, the folks at Brixton Brewery have crafted ‘9 to 5’ – a hop-forward pale ale that weighs in at a mere 2.8%. We’ll take ten. On sale now at Big Chill Kings Cross and Shoreditch.

B R EW BY NUM B E RS C U C U M B E R & J U NI P ER SAISON Bermondsey, London, UK The use of juniper berries and cucumber in the brewing process creates an experimental, gin-inspired beer that’s packed to the brim with floral flavours. 5%, 440ml; £3.50,


Buckle up for summertime sessions – Nigel Owen of Mother Kelly’s takes you through some of the best places to grab a beer outdoors in London this year 1 Pressure Drop Taproom

Pressure Drop is making some of the best beer in London right now, with Pale Fire being one of the finest pale ales being brewed in the UK, and what better place to try it than at the source. The brewery opens every Saturday afternoon, so get it as fresh as you can: on a picnic bench in the sun outside the front of the brewery. It’s definitely worth the (short) walk from Tottenham Hale Tube. Mill Mead Road, N17 9QP; Photographs by (wheat) blickwinkel/Alamy; (Southampton Arms) Helen Cathcart; (Mother Kelly’s) Richard Brooks

2 Smokehouse Islington

At the top end of Canonbury and just behind Upper Street, Smokehouse is a bit of a hidden gem. It has a great range of draft beer and some amazing food to go with it. It also has


a great outside space hidden behind tall hedges adorned with fairy lights, making you feel a million miles away from the hustle and bustle of central London. Canonbury Road, N1 2DG;

3 The Southampton Arms

A small, old-school boozer, The Southampton Arms has a great range of cask ales from some of the finest breweries in the country. The tap list is constantly rotating, so every time you pop in you’ll get to try something new. The outdoor space is only small, so it can get quite busy, but that doesn’t stop it being the perfect place to stop for a pint of ale after spending an afternoon out on Hampstead Heath.

river at Mother Kelly’s Vauxhall. Found right on the Albert Embankment, it’s got the same discerning selection across 33 taps with beer, cider, wine and cocktails to choose from. And we’ve now got even more outdoor space for you to enjoy them in. Plus, the bar backs right on to Vauxhall’s Pleasure Gardens, so if you’re up for a couple of hours’ drinking in the park this summer, we’ve got you covered. f Albert Embankment, SE1 7TP;

Nigel Owen is owner of Mother Kelly’s Taprooms & Bottle Shops, with various London locations

Highgate Road, NW5 1LE;


4 Hop Burns & Black

A nice little bottle shop on the borders of Peckham and East Dulwich, Hop Burns & Black has an amazing range of bottled beers that you can buy and drink on one of its benches out front. It also has four rotating beers available on flagon fill, so you can also grab one (or two) of those to enjoy on Peckham Rye at the end of the road. East Dulwich Road, SE22 9AX;

5 Mother Kelly’s Vauxhall

You can now find an even bigger version of Paradise Row’s favourite taproom south of the







If you’ve ever found yourself looking for an excuse to head up to the North London neighbourhood of Crouch End (and, to be honest, even if you haven’t), this is it. Newly opened Small Beer is a taproom, cocktail bar and wood-fired pizza kitchen with 18 draught lines pumping out jars of gorgeous hoppy nectar from breweries in London, Huddersfield, Munich and more. What’s even better is that Small Beer is also offering punters a free slice of Neapolitan pizza with pints bought between 4-6pm on weekdays, and 2-for1 cocktails 5-7pm on weekends. Basically, get on Citymapper, stat.



Based near the southern end of the Bermondsey Beer Mile, Partizan brews everything from citrus and herb-led beers to modern takes on London porter, as well as this fruity little elixir: the Lychee and Rose Martini Saison. Their approach celebrates brewing heritage and the multiculturalism of London, while breathing new life into classic and lesser-known beer styles.


Your guide to the designers and illustrators behind beer labels. This month: Partizan


Photograph by Matthew Hasteley



As well as contributing illustrations to an array of magazines and newspapers around the globe, illustrator Alec Doherty has been designing labels for Partizan pretty much since the get-go. The artwork here represents the drinker looking at their reflection in a martini glass, and being surrounded by the exotic flavours that tantalise their tastebuds as they sup it. Head down to the taproom in South Bermondsey and you’ll be able to see his bar taps, too.

3th - 5th August Tobacco Dock, Wapping Tickets from £40

Tickets On Sale Now!



All your beer


Glass & Magazine


Good Times




— PART 2 —



Photographs by (Valley Fest, main) Adam Gasson; (Field Day, day) Carolina Faruolo; (Field Day, night) Andrew Whitton



OU’RE KNEE-DEEP IN mud, there’s music playing and in one grubby little mitt you’re holding a pint of craft beer; in the other you’ve got a juicy pulled pork burger, and it’s pissing it down – but by God you’re happy. Say what you like about the UK and its notorious weather, but we know how to put on a brilliant festival, and that, really, is what summer is all about. And part of those festivals, after the music, the comedy and all the other fun stuff, is the food. Whether it’s banquet table feasts or superlative street food, a good festival knows how to keep its guests well fed. With that in mind, we’ve rounded up our favourite summer parties, whether that’s a music festival in Brockwell Park, a weekender devoted just to cheese, or a literature- and food-focused festival in Wales. Get ready to clear your diaries, folks; the party is only just beginning.


21 July; Alexandra Palace, London

WHAT IS IT: You thought festivities at Ally Pally peaked with a spin around the ice rink, didn’t you? How wrong you were. Taking over the palace and park for a day, Kaleidoscope is a blend of music, literature and theatre. THE LINE-UP: This is a delicate balance of gigs, readings, workshops and parties, so here goes nothing: must-sees include The Flaming Lips, shouty punk poet John Cooper Clarke, culture clash Caught by the River and infectious house and techno tunes from The 2 Bears. THE FOOD AND DRINK: From pitcooked meat to craft ales, a whole avenue of street-food traders and an area dedicated to veggies, you’re set for an absolute feast. We’re in. £50.75;

AND IT’S LIVE... Grab your glitter, your wellies and a spork: it’s festival season. Don’t know where to start? Read on to find out the best of the fests

CATEGORIES London music festivals UK music festivals with food London weekenders Cultural festivals


1-2 June, Brockwell Park, London

WHAT IS IT: Undeniably one of the hottest festivals on the London circuit, this June weekender has snowballed into an absolute must over the last 11 years. This is the first year away from its original Victoria Park home, but you wouldn’t know it from the frankly brilliant line-up, which is jam-packed with an array of jazz, alternative and electronic music that’s as far-reaching and eclectic as ever. THE LINE-UP: This two-day extravaganza has always managed to scoop some of the hottest names in electronic and alternative music, and this year’s line-up definitely has a heavy contemporary jazz feel. There’ll be big hitters like Fever Ray, Erykah Badu and Charlotte Gainsbourg, plus sets from likes of Four Tet, Daniel Avery, Floating Points and

Daphni. Then, if you’re into jazz and soul, you’ve got London stalwarts like Nubya Garcia, Sons of Kemet, Ezra Collective and Jordan Rakei to enjoy, as well as a DJ set from Gilles Peterson. Phwoar. FOOD & DRINK: London’s biggest, baddest weekender comes with big, bad London street food to match. This year will see a food line-up curated by Street Feast and Venn Street Market, which is sure to have you sorted for brunch, lunch and any part of the day when you find yourself stumbling around drunk and hungry. Drinks, meanwhile, come from London Brewers’ Market – a lively mishmash of indie brewers from around the city, led by craft favourite Five Points. From £44.50;



28 May, Peckham, London

WHAT IS IT: Taking over Peckham Rye for a day, the first festival by London food market impresarios Kerb will see you through three stages, 12 food traders and one hell of a hangover. THE LINE-UP: With stages curated by Reggae Roast and Brixton-based Wormfood Records, the vibes couldn’t be any bigger. Top of the bill are David Rodigan, Horace Andy and Mungo’s Hi Fi, and that’s just for starters... FOOD & DRINK: There’ll be top grub from vegan legends Club Mexicana and scene leaders Breddos; Caribbean bites from Only Jerkin’; pizza from Wandercrust and more. Sign. Us. Up. £25;


25 May-3 June, Victoria Park, London

WHAT IS IT: Out of the smouldering crater left by the departure of Lovebox and Field Day arises something new. That new thing is called All Points East – a ten-day festival in Viccy Park and the neighbourhood around it. THE LINE-UP: All Points East is three separate events, so listen carefully: 25-27 May is the festival in the park, which’ll see The XX, LCD Soundsystem and Björk headline, supported by other indie heroes like Father John Misty and Yeah Yeah Yeahs (yep, they’re back). Next up is All Points East in the Neighbourhood, four weekdays of cost-free fun in Hackney and Tower Hamlets that’ll see everything from creative workshops to outdoor cinemas. The festival then closes back in the park on 1-3 June, with special shows headlined by Catfish and the Bottlemen, The National and Nick Cave. Got it? Good. FOOD & DRINK: While the festival end of things is sure to provide you with high-quality festi fare, it’s the In the Neighbourhood event that has our lips tingling, as Sourced Market is curating a comprehensive crew of East London traders. Expect fried chicken from Butchies, wonderful wood-fired pizza from Born & Raised and all-out vegan junk from Biff’s Jack Shack. From £59.95;



23-26 August, Northamptonshire

WHAT IS IT: Billing itself as “adventures in utopia”, Shambala is part music festival, part celebration of sustainable and ethical living. The festival’s also entirely vegetarian, with an emphasis on going plasticfree and using renewable energy. THE LINE-UP: Despite its bucolic (undisclosed) location in the countryside, there’s a focus on contemporary and old-school urban music, from LA-based Latin hip-hop act Ozomatli to Gentleman’s Dub Club. There’ll also be a bit of soul and Afrobeat by way of Nubiyan Twist and Seun Kuti, son of Fela Kuti. FOOD & DRINK: Shambala took the decision to go meat- and fish-free in 2016, and its public voted to keep it that way from then on. There’ll be vegan and veggie traders aplenty from London and beyond, but the main food programming takes place in The Garden O’ Feeden, a space for feasts, talks and debates around the future of food, and our favourite initiative, the Bread Therapy workshops. Make your own sourdough using a Shambala starter, and have it baked for you in the festival’s community oven.


23-26 August, Lincolnshire

WHAT IS IT: A giant, beautiful rave masquerading as a quiet forest hideaway in Lincolnshire, with a music and food line-up that’ll absolutely blow your wellies off. THE LINE-UP: You’ve got ravefriendly headliners in the form of Friendly Fires, Four Tet and Everything Everything, then a supporting list of pretty much all the biggest names in electronic music right now, from Maribou State to Gilles Peterson, Kiasmos, Crazy P Soundsystem and more. FOOD & DRINK: There’s a first foray into festival food from London’s Indian-inspired Dishoom. Aside from that, you’ll be working up a healthy post-rave appetite for feasts from Michelinstarred Tommy Banks, Hawksmoor and others. There’s the Eating House, with a collection of London’s most exciting restaurants (hello, Breddos Tacos). But if you want to grab something on the hoof, there’s plenty of easy-eating street-food options from around the world, too. £190;

STANDON CALLING 26-29 July, Hertfordshire

Photographs by (Shambala) Louise Roberts; (Standon Calling, night) Giles Smith; (Standon

Calling, day) Justine Trickett; Le Bao (Victor Frankowski); (Wilderness) Andrew Whitton

WHAT IS IT: The boutique festival to end all boutique festivals, Standon Calling has managed to keep an intimate atmosphere despite its leap from birthday party to full-blown festival over the course of 13 years. It’s always themed, too – this year will see you hop in a time machine and jet into the wackiest future you could imagine. THE LINE-UP: This summer, headliners include Paloma Faith, Maribou State, George Ezra and Bryan Ferry, while electronic music fans will rejoice in a stellar showing from George FitzGerald, Elderbrook, DJ Yoda and Greg Wilson. Want to get ravey? There’s a stage curated by D&B titan Hospitality. Yep, really. But it’s not all about music – there’ll be comedy from Seann Walsh, Lucy Porter and Rhys James, as well as other, more family-friendly activities. FOOD & DRINK: At just a 40-minute train ride from central London, Standon’s speciality is a line-up of London’s best and brightest street-food traders. There’ll be Patty & Bun’s Patty Party; Wingmans’ chicken wings; pizza from Born & Raised; fish and chips from Kerbisher & Malt and much, much more. Forget the dancefloor – we’ll see you by the burger van. From £159;


2-5 August, Cornbury Park

WHAT IS IT: Once a tiny boutique festival, Wilderness now welcomes the best part of 20,000 revellers to the (usually) sundrenched Cornbury Park in the Cotswolds for a weekend of eating, drinking and more than a little bit of raving, too. THE LINE-UP: Headlining this year are festival favourites Nile Rodgers & Chic, as well as Bastille and celebrated DJ Jon Hopkins on the main stage. Arguably, though, the real fun begins a little further down the billing, with cosmic jazz maestro Kamasi Washington and R&B soulstress IAMDDB also hitting the main stage, and elsewhere, Pee Wee Ellis Funk Assembly brings his smooth sounds to the blues stage. After hours, dance legends Groove Armada and progressive house DJ George FitzGerald will be playing neon-drenched, good-time venue The Valley. Not enough?

There’ll be dance from Sadler’s Wells, hiphop karaoke, mass yoga, dance classes and other ‘eccentricities’. FOOD & DRINK: Wilderness is always a hive of amazing food and drink, with some of the best-loved street-food traders and chefs making the journey up from the capital, and there are stands from some of your favourite drinks brands, too. Ketel One’s Vodka Kitchen will be in full flow, as will Appleton’s Jamaica Rum Bar. The likes of The Dairy’s Robin Gill, Yotam Ottolenghi and Portland’s Merlin Labron-Johnson are hosting long-table banquets; Petersham Nurseries, Café Murano’s Angela Hartnett and Haggerston shawarma kings Berber & Q are putting on feasting menus and chef’s table events; and there’s a Dining Room with heaps of street food from Breddos Tacos, Smokestak, BAO and loads more good stuff – perfect for tucking into after a restorative bit of wild swimming in the lake. From £179.50;


LONDON CHEESE PROJECT 26-28 May; The Geffrye Museum, Shoreditch, London


 1 August-2 September; 3 Tobacco Dock, London

WHAT IS IT: Meatopia isn’t all about the meat. Be it from land, sea, bone or, er, hop, this (mostly) carnivorous carnival is a celebration of the very best in taste and provenance. THE LINE-UP: You can’t spend every waking moment of the weekend stuffing your face, so take part in one of Meatopia’s workshops or work off those meat sweats in front of the live bands and headline DJ sets. FOOD & DRINK: If last year’s lineup including Yotam Ottolenghi, Richard H Turner and Nathan Outlaw is anything to go by, this is a weekender you won’t want to miss. From £23.85;

LONDON CRAFT BEER FESTIVAL 3-5 August; Tobacco Dock, London

WHAT IS IT: Does what it says on the tin. London Craft Beer Festival is back for its sixth year, taking over Tobacco Dock from 3 to 5 August. This hop-heavy festival contains more than 60 international brewers pouring out a selection of over 300 different beers to keep you cool in the summer sun. THE LINE-UP: Thirsty festivalgoers will also be treated to an impressive musical line-up, including DJ sets from Two Door Cinema Club, Huey Morgan, Toddla T, Everything Everything, Greg Wilson, The Heatwave, Trojan Sound System and Hip-hop Karaoke. What more could you possibly want? Nothing, that’s what. FOOD & DRINK: Helping to soak up at least some of that alcohol is a range of eating options, with pop-up kitchens from the likes of Hoppers, Luca and Big Apple Hot Dog, all providing the perfect accompaniment to your pint. Even more tasty food pop-ups are set to be announced, so make sure to follow the good folks at the London Craft Beer Festival on Facebook and Twitter for updates on who else might be making an appearance. From £46.50;

WHAT IS IT: The London Cheese Project is a joyous three-day celebration of all things fromage, turning the grounds of The Geffrye Museum into a veritable garden of Edam. Definitely not one for the lactose intolerant. THE LINE-UP: Non-edible entertainment includes live (presumably cheesy) music and a stacked programme of free talks on topics ranging from ‘urban cheesemaking’ with Mexican queso specialists Gringa Dairy to the ‘art of cheddar’ with Devon cheeseheads Quickes. FOOD & DRINK: The very best of the nation’s ’mongers, merchants, and artisan cheese producers will all be around to make their presence smelt. A host of London’s favourite street-food traders, committed to using artisan produce, have also joined this year’s line-up, with Mother Flipper, Butchies and The Cheese Truck all serving one-off takes on their usual menus. It’s a guaranteed gouda time. Sorry. From £5;

BEAVERTOWN EXTRAVAGANZA 7 -8 September; Printworks, Canada Water, London

WHAT IS IT: Following the success of last summer, the festival is happy (or is that hoppy?) to announce that this time the party will be bigger and even better. With 90 different international breweries pulling pints over the weekend, last year’s 77-strong line-up pales in comparison. THE LINE-UP: Whether you’re a committed crafter or a novice looking to learn more, don’t miss the opportunity to quench your thirst – and your curiosity – at one of Good Beer Hunting’s beer-illiant talks. FOOD & DRINK: You could make a beeline for homegrown favourites like Pressure Drop, Kernel or Brew By Numbers. But with so many to choose from, this is the place to sip, glug or chug something new. Take care, though – make sure you soak it all up with a visit to one (or more) of Kerb’s 18 food trucks. £65;


HAY FESTIVAL 24 May-3 June; Wales

WHAT IS IT: A world-renowned literary festival in the idyllic location of the Brecon Beacons. Past speakers include Benedict Cumberbatch, and there’s a rather lovely music line-up and great food to boot. THE LINE-UP: It’s not all books – this year sees Hay host talks on everything from the future of food to feminism. Elsewhere, listen to Rose McGowan, one of the first actors to denounce Harvey Weinstein, talking about her book Brave, or listen to the acoustic sounds of Jake Bugg. FOOD & DRINK: The Relish Restaurant will be whipping up dishes using ingredients from local farms, but the Festival Food Hall is where you can really go to town on everything from pierogi dumplings to Cypriot souvlaki. Oh, and bring your own cup for hot drinks and you’ll get a discount. Talks from £7;

HENLEY FESTIVAL 11-15 July; Henley-on-Thames

WHAT IS IT: Did you know a festival could be both black tie and boutique at the same time? Us neither, until we came across Henley Festival. Located on the bank of the River Thames, it’s just about as quintessentially British as you can get. THE LINE-UP: You might be surprised to hear that headliners this year include Rita Ora and Grace Jones. But this is Henley, after all, so you’ll also able to feast your ears on the dulcet tones of the National Youth Jazz Orchestra and the likes of Yolanda Brown, too, as well as some award-winning comedy. FOOD & DRINK: Make an occasion of it by booking into one of the restaurants, overseen by Italian food doyenne Angela Hartnett of Café Murano. Or head to one of the streetfood traders, where you can munch everything from lobster rolls at Snob Lobster to audacious crispy squid from, er, Audacious Crispy Squid. From £55;


3-5 August; Somerset


24-27 August; Hertfordshire


Photographs by (Hay) Matthew Keenan; (Valley Fest) Adam Gasson

WHAT IS IT: A well-deserved kneesup for the hospitality industry by the hospitality industry, PX+ is intended to be a creative playground where chefs, bar staff and front of house can get their creative juices flowing. THE LINE-UP: Island Records is running a music venue, which is all you need to know. Then there’ll be yoga and meditation, and chefspeakers including Clare Smyth and Sticky Walnut’s Gary Usher. FOOD & DRINK: For starters (and mains and desserts), there’ll be a communal table hosting dinners from Frenchie’s Greg Marchand, Ceviche’s Martin Morales, and Tredwell’s Chantelle Nicholson. As for drinks, Mr Lyan will be taking to the bar, as will Dalston favourites Three Sheets and Coupette. £150;

WHAT IS IT: A sustainable, familyfriendly festival by Chew Valley Lake. Join the ceilidh, spin around the valley arm-in-arm and kick back on the grass with an Orchard Pig cider as performers throw fire into the night sky. THE LINE-UP: It may be a festival in the heart of the Somerset hills, but that doesn’t mean you can’t get a sonic shift on at the Lake Stage. Stomp to the big brass beat of Dirty Bourbon River Show; sway to the ethereal sounds of Rae Morris; or lose yourself (but hopefully not your kids) in the dreamy Japanese folk-dance-inspired tones of Yama Warashi. FOOD & DRINK: From the food stalls to the milk in your morning coffee to the community farm hosting workshops just one field over, everything you eat and drink at Valley Fest will be completely organic this year. And if last year’s line-up is anything to go by, expect to tuck into plates of delicious vegan food, smoky buns stuffed with barbecued, ethically sourced meat and maybe even gin and tonic tempura tacos – trust us, they work. From £90;


’CUE THE MUSIC... With barbecue, Americana music and motorbikes aplenty, brand-new festival Black Deer is the ultimate celebration of US culture – taking place near Tunbridge Wells


TANDING IN A field, listening to music from Passenger and Iron & Wine and eating delicious barbecued food in the company of custom-built hogs and Harleys, you’d be forgiven for thinking you’re kicking back in the Deep South. But that’s just the feeling you’ll get at Black Deer – a new, independent festival taking place just outside Royal Tunbridge Wells. The June weekender celebrates Americana and country music culture, whether that’s with a roadhouse saloon bar and custom motorcycle area, or USstyle craft beers and whiskeys. The unique festival is all about bringing together like-minded people through authentic good times – and that, of course, always starts with mouthwatering food. That’s why you should head straight for the Live Fire Arena, an area at Black Deer dedicated to the UK’s American barbecue scene, with cookbook authors, food writers, an American roadside smokehouse experience and interactive lifestyle

demos. It’s the place to get your chops around authentic US-style cooking, with ribs, brisket and, of course, barbecue sauce. And there’ll be a produce market, so you can bring some of that Americana spirit home with you – or just make yourself a banging picnic. Elsewhere, there’ll be a food and lifestyle demo stage, a cookout competition – and veggies and vegans

will be well catered for, too. With all this and loads more, you won’t believe you’re just 50 minutes from London. We’ll see you there. ● To find out more, follow the festival on social media at @blackdeerfest or visit the website:

FIRE IT UP If authentic US-style barbecue and the best-quality meat cooked low ’n’ slow is your thing, this is a festival you won't want to miss. At its heart is the Live Fire Arena, a complete outdoor living experience with the coolest outdoor chefs, pitmasters, butchers, woodsmen and craftsmen. Who knows, you might just take home a skill or two, too.




Drink Graffigna responsibly

EYES ON THE PIES: This image, ‘Calum in His Pie Room’, shows Holborn Dining Room’s head chef Calum Franklin studying one of his creations in the restaurant’s new Pie Room. Shot by UK Photographer John Carey, it took home The Philip Harben Award for Food in Action at this year’s awards.

OH, SNAP The Pink Lady Food Photographer of the Year winners have been announced, and we’ve rounded up our pick of the winning images

Photograph by ###


BREAKING FAST: [main] The overall winner, Bangladeshi snapper Noor Ahmed Gelal took home the Food for Celebration award, sponsored by Champagne Taittinger, for this arresting shot of a scene of worship before a communal dinner in her home country; [inset, from top] ‘Sheep in Dakar‘ by UK photographer Guillaume Flandre won the Food in the Field award; the same photographer’s beautiful study of two pensioners preparing dinner, entitled ‘Family Dinner’, won the Food for the Family award; ‘Dog Shower‘ by Grzegorz Tomasz Karnas of Poland won in the Politics of Food category


Photograph by ###



foodism is a proud partner of the Pink Lady Food Photographer of the Year awards, and we’re also the category sponsor of the unearthedŽ Food Film Shorts award, which showcases the best talent in moving images based around food. To see the winning and shortlisted films in this exciting category, go to To see all of the winning and shortlisted photographs, go to


NET GAINS: [main] India’s Debdatta Chakraborty won the Bring Home the Harvest category for this beautiful, expansive shot, ‘The Fishermen’; [inset, from top] Winner of the World Food Programme Food for Life category, photographer Probal Rashid’s shot ‘A Fisherman’s Life’ presents a stark look at life for a boat-dweller in Bhola, southern Bangladesh; the Fujifilm Award for Innovation went to the UK’s Philip Field for this shot ‘Ostrich Horizon’; Becci Hutchings won the Student Photographer of the Year award for ‘Honeycomb and Wax’

Photograph by ###


DON’T LABEL ME We all know that London drinks a lot of wine, but creating it in the capital is something new. Clare Finney explores the people and places behind London’s nascent winemaking movement



Photograph (Roberson) by Joel Knight

ORGET THE KEENING sirens. Shut out the rumble of trains overhead. Ignore the filament bulbs, the indie soundtrack, the pierced, pink-haired dude Deliverooing a pizza. You know you’re not in a château in the gentle, luscious hills of Burgundy any more when the winemaker you’re chatting to draws a direct line between gynaecology, male prostitutes and wine. “To me, sommeliers are the gigolos of the wine business,” says Warwick Smith, with the sort of irreverence you might expect from the founder of a winery called Renegade. “They’ve been around. The winemaker, though, is the gynaecologist: he knows the ins and outs. He knows what’s going on behind the scenes.” He takes a sip of a 2016 barrelfermented sauvignon blanc – aged, blended and bottled here in his Bethnal Green winery, and continues expansively. “They’re both skilled: the sommelier in tasting notes, food pairing and communication, the winemaker in chemistry, logistics, technique – but they’re very different gigs.” Warwick should know. A former marketer, he actually trained as a sommelier before establishing Renegade winery under a railway arch in East London. At the time of opening – spring 2017 – they were only the second winery in London. Now there are four: Renegade, London Cru, Blackbook Winery and Vagabond Urban Winery. Each one considers themselves innovative – and they are, almost by default, for who in their right mind would make wine in the heart of one of the world’s most crowded cities, where traffic is terrible and space costs a fortune? Who but a madman, or at the very least a creative, would drive a lorry full of grapes all the way from, say, Piedmont in Italy, to Battersea Power Station or Earls Court? “One of the reasons I didn’t do this a long, long time ago is that it doesn’t make any sense, this model,” says Smith. “You can only make a limited amount, because you can only afford so much square footage, and you’re competing with supermarkets.” One commonality these otherwise diverse London wineries share is an overriding anxiety about balancing the books. To an extent this dictates the style of wines they can make. Space counts for nothing on the Iberian Peninsula. You can store barrels for years without thinking it’s costing you more in rental fees than you might make back when you bottle it. But in Battersea, making a sparkling pinot noir, aged for four years on the lees so you get that brioche character, is hard to justify from a cash-flow perspective.

It’s just sitting there,” says winemaker Gavin Monery. Five thousand bottles squatting on several hundred grand’s worth of prime mixed-use property for four years, without earning a single penny. So why do you do it? I ask Monery who, in the employ of Vagabond, has just opened a winery in the back of their latest branch in Battersea Power Station. Prior to this, he was at the city’s first winery, London Cru. “The key thing is people. It’s telling our story, getting people involved in the process.” Take away the people – the residents and employees of Battersea, Vauxhall and Pimlico – “and it’s just a really expensive place to make wine in.” Vagabond is many things: a wine shop, a restaurant, and a wine bar with an innovative tap system allowing customers to try even quite pricey wines by the glass or tasting measure. Thus far it has proved incredibly popular. Yet with the growing success of English wines and vineyards, and London Cru spearheading urban winemaking just down the river, Vagabond’s founding director Stephen Finch saw an opportunity to get in on the expanding English market while furthering his customers’ engagement and understanding of winemaking. “The reasons we opened a winery in London back in 2013 were twofold: we believed we could make quality wine in London, and we wanted to bring people into the winery.” I’m speaking to Lindsey Marden, London Cru’s events manager, within the fine surrounds of their newly renovated tasting events space. The gleaming oak table is made of old sleepers they used to rest barrels on, and stumps of ancient vines, gnarled and withered into artworks, are dotted about the room. The unit is custom made from vintage

ON THE BOTTLE: [left] Labelling up at Renegade winery, which is located under a railway arch in East London; [below] Roberson Winery in SW6

French wine crates. There’s money here, that much is clear – the winery is owned and backed by wine merchant Cliff Roberson, of Roberson Wines – but there is creativity too, and it goes well beyond this oak table. After all, London Cru pioneered urban winemaking. They were the first to look at the popularity of French vineyard tours, the prevailing trend for gastronomic experiences, and conclude that what well-heeled, wineloving Londoners were gasping for was their own wine and winery. Of course, there’s no denying that being part of Roberson Wines gives London Cru an element of economic stability. The Roberson offices are upstairs. Tastings, corporate events and workshops are held down in the winery. Vagabond, too, has a firm financial foundation in the form of its highly successful collection of wine shops and bars. Though the names of the four wineries all imply a maverick attitude, it is Renegade that is taking the biggest financial risk. “I’ve re-mortgaged my flat to set this up. If it works, then brilliant. If it doesn’t, I’ll lose my flat,” Smith smiles dryly. For some, this would be a hamstring; but for Smith, it’s an artistic license. “I am not owned or employed by anyone. We’re not trying to be gimmicky – and there is a balance to be struck between being different and independent and being gimmicky – but within that I can do whatever I want.” He points to a stout barrel, squatting by the bar, labelled ‘Warwick – Don’t Open.’ “That’s my little toy: English seval blanc, →


WINE AT THE BAR: Vagabond in Battersea, which combines urban winery with a bar; [opposite] wine from Renegade (L] and London Cru [R]

→ pinot noir traditional champagne-method English sparkling wine fermented in Kentucky whisky barrels.” How’s it tasting? I ask. “Well, at the moment, like Jack Daniels and lemonade with a wine-y twist,” he laughs. “But it will be very different after it’s been in bottle for a year.” Though he and his winemaking partner Josh Hammond played fairly safe when they first opened, Smith soon realised there was no point in following the rules and “making the same style of wine as those you can find in Tesco for six quid.” Out went sterile filtering, sulphites, dosage (the addition of sugar to wine), and the practice of cold stabilisation to make the wine clearer. In came natural fermentation methods and wine blends spanning not just regions, but whole countries: a sauvignon blanc made from Bordeaux grapes with a yeast strain predominately used in New Zealand; a rosé


marrying grapes from Spain, England and Italy. Renegade weren’t the first to pioneer cross-country blends: that accolade must go to London Cru, whose 2015 King’s Cross blend marries grapes from France, Spain and Italy. But they are the first to really celebrate this approach as a distillation of the diversity and creativity of London – as well, of course, as a means of making great wine. Their rosé is unapologetically billed as ‘the anti-Brexit bevvie – a multi-cultural juicy number.’ “We drink beer made from New


Zealand hops, German grain and English water,” Smith points out. “We eat Argentinian steak with French béarnaise sauce. Why don’t we mix grape nationalities?” In part this is down to the taste of the individual winemaker: Smith is – well, a renegade, seeking to disrupt the market, while Gavin Monery and London Cru’s Agustin Novoa are all fairly classically trained. Monery cut his teeth in his homeland, Australia, then worked for various producers in France as an assistant before setting up his own small vineyard in Burgundy. Novoa, London Cru’s new winemaker, specialises largely in the wines of cold climates – Germany, Austria and now England – despite his Argentinian heritage. In a traditional sancerre, forged by a winemaking dynasty in the centre of the Loire, for example, you can taste the physical terroir: the verdant valley, chalky terre blanches and the ambient, river valley climate. Yet while there’s no such terroir in London – “that takes place wherever the grapes are grown and picked,” says Monery – there is still the “human terroir, which people

Photograph (Roberson) by Joel Knight

don’t often speak about” he continues: one which captures the personal preferences and techniques of the winemaker, his boss (if there is one) and his clientele. Smith leans toward richer, more intense wines, with a slightly higher alcohol content than those at Vagabond. He ferments in steel, or a Georgian wine making vessel called a queverie, or barrels of all ages and varieties. Monery likes fresh, lighter wines “which, I hope, are slightly elegant in style.” It’s no coincidence that Vagabond and London Cru age their wines in French oak barrels, for instance: it’s Monery’s legacy – and there is a “recognised quality” to French oak which has a broad, timeless appeal. “French oak is what Gavin favoured, and Ag likes them too,” Marsden continues, as we browse London Cru’s barrel rooms.” You won’t find old bourbon barrels lurking in one of these smart chambers. For Roberson, quality is the first and foremost consideration. They’ve a reputation to uphold. “Cliff (Roberson) has been in the business for 30 years. He is a professional. He only wants the absolute

highest calibre.” In response, his winemakers have created a series of accessible, awardwinning and beautiful wines. Then there’s the fruit they use: a question of taste, and the winemaker’s relationship with different growers. Though most of their early wines used European grapes, London Cru have decided to stick solely to homegrown fruit henceforth: Agustin Novoa has strong contacts among English growers, and a particular facility with cold-climate wine. Monery, too, favours English grapes, but suggests the pressure to create wines that would prove popular with Roberson Wine’s large and diverse customer base – London Cru is not a bar, and their wines are largely sold to restaurants via Roberson’s or on their website – didn’t lend itself to great experimentation. “I could never have made something like this,” he says, bursting a bottle of what looks like cloudy lemonade open with a ptzzzz and pouring a couple of glasses. This is a pétillant-naturel: “a zero-sulphur, zero-dosage sparkling wine, from the English reichensteiner grape with a bit of pinot noir,” he continues. More commonly known as pét-nat, wines made in this style are bottled prior to completing their first fermentation, allowing carbon dioxide to be produced by the grapes’ natural sugars; with champagne, it comes from added sugar and yeast during the secondary fermentation of the wine. From the outside pét-nat looks still and, because it’s unfiltered, quite murky. Only when you open it does the carbon dioxide come out of solution to make its sparkling appearance. It’s a fun wine: light, fizzy and fairly cheap, it is “designed to compete with prosecco, really. It’s not champagne, and it’s not trying to be champagne,” explains

LONDON CRU HAVE DECIDED TO STICK SOLELY TO HOMEGROWN FRUIT Monery. Yet while there’s no doubt that this pét-nat will fly off Vagabond’s riverside terrace come summer’s long, warmish evenings, it’d be a hard sell to another restaurant with many tables and little time to really explain to customers what pét-nat is, and why the yeast is still suspended like a fine cloud through the wine. “If things are too left-field, restaurants don’t want to buy it,” says Monery bluntly. After all, the moment a customer is dropping over £35 on a bottle they’re likely to play safe unless the sommelier can advise otherwise. But at Vagabond, you don’t have to commit to a whole bottle: their tap set-up means you can try a sample or glass, and there are staff and informative labels to take you through each of the wines. “If I’m selling to 20 restaurants, I have to make something classic. Here I can make whatever style I like, within reason, because we’re not reliant on someone else selling it.” What’s more, by producing →


→ a wine that is quick, easy and – once you’ve explained the mist away – highly sellable, Money can build up the cash flow necessary to pay the rent on the longer-aged wines. “In a way, it’s like feta,” he says of pét-nat – a strange analogy, until you realise urban wineries are as much at the mercy of space and finance as urban cheesemakers. “You make a young cheese like feta so you can get it out the door and get money in so you can fund the mature cheeses,” he continues. He’s not there yet, but in the future Monery dreams of vinifying and ageing a champagnestyle English sparkling wine. It could soon be reality: Monery’s cashflow comes not just from the wines they make, but from the sales and events they sell in-house and across Vagabond’s four branches. That enables a degree of experimentation. “We have people living nearby who see this place as an extension of their living room,” he grins. “They meet us, they watch the process, they can help out during harvesting and taste the wine from the barrel as it ages.” They bring money and atmosphere – but through feedback and volunteering they arguably also contribute something toward the wine. Place matters. Smith even maintains the

RENEGADE MASTERS: Winemaking duo Josh Hammond and Warwick Smith at their East London railway arch winery, Renegade


vibration of trains above Renegade’s arch stirs the fermenting wine, creating “more contact between the lees and the juice.” It might sound like a stretch to claim London’s wines reflect the very different areas in which they are made, but it’s hard to dismiss the idea when you visit these wineries and taste their wines. Last summer I spent the day at London Cru, helping them bottle and label their 2016 Baker Street – and while of course, the wine was finished by then and wasn’t touched during the process, it still felt like we – myself and six others, many of whom were local – had brought something to that particular vintage. “For the 2017 harvest we did an Instagram post asking if people wanted to come help make wine after work,” Smith recalls. “We had 100-odd people come along to help destem the grapes and sample some wine. We’re collaborating with breweries. We’re teaming up with the East London Film Festival. We’re encouraging people to help during the harvest. We want to bring the community,” he enthuses – and to judge by the reception he’s had, the community are coming. Yet even if you discount the impact locals can have on the actual winemaking, there’s no dismissing the impact of local demand. “People seem to respond in this area to wines with a more natural story: unfiltered, unrefined, vegan and vegetarian,” says Smith. “They gravitate more toward funk and more differentiated styles.” That seems unsurprising

RENEGADE’S NEW SPARKLING IS AGED IN AN EAST END CHURCH in hip East London. London Cru, meanwhile, err more towards classic styles: appealing to quality restaurants, Roberson Wines customers, and their West London surrounds. You don’t even have to look beyond the label: Renegade ran a competition among London artists, and chose a Dutch artist who trained at St Martin’s to draw a series of fun, Ralph Steadman-esque labels for their bottles; London Cru, meanwhile, struck lucky with highly respected design agency The Partners, who produced their clean, smart, multiple award winning wine-leaf label. Battersea’s clientele – that of Vagabond, and Blackbook, which I didn’t get to visit – will become clearer as the power station continues to develop: but they’ve certainly shown an interest and enthusiasm for wine that is homegrown, and made in town. This year, Renegade release their first blanc de noirs aged sparkling: English grapes, pressed, oak-barrel-fermented and bottled in London. They’ll ferment and age in the vaults of a Hawksmoor church in the East End, where customers who pay for a bottle in advance can try their wine from the barrel during secondary fermentation – an experiential value added to justify the hefty price tag. “It’ll be the first champagne-method sparkling wine to be made in the city,” enthuses Smith. Will it be more ‘London’, as a result of being pressed, fermented and blended here? Will it feel more ‘East End’ than the aged sparkling pinot noir Monery plans for Vagabond? We might never really know. “I think people don’t even have a handle on what terroir means for English wine yet,” says Monery – let along the more intangible cultural terroir you get once the grapes hit London. Yet as the cork of Monery’s pet-nat pops off to reveal a bright, fizzing rush of bubbles and booze, I can’t help but feel that for one fleeting moment London – smart, fast, busy, zany, posh, scruffy, unfathomable London – has been captured inside this wine. f


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A CAPITAL SERVE The City of London Distillery is the first in the City for 200 years, and its awardwinning range of gins are a complex and sophisticated take on the classic spirit


AY BACK IN the 18th century, the City of London was a buzzing hub for gin, with a distillery or shop in nearly every street. Fast-forward 200 years and there were none. That’s until The City of London Distillery


opened its doors in 2012, kickstarting a now-burgeoning trade in small-batch distilling in the city. While distilling technology has moved on vastly in the last two centuries, the recipe for a great London Dry hasn’t – and that’s the first gin the City of London Distillery crafted after opening six years ago. Steeped in tradition, but distilled to exacting modern standards, City of London Distillery’s London Dry is a connoisseur’s gin that finely balances the flavour of juniper berries, angelica, liquorice and coriander seeds with a zesty citrus edge. It’s so good that it won Double Gold at the San Francisco World Gin Spirit Competition in 2017. The rest of the range are award winners, as well: City of London's Old Tom and Square Mile gins both scooped Double Gold in San Francisco last

year, while Christopher Wren Gin won Gold at the 2017 International Wine & Spirits Competition. The distillery’s Sloe Gin won a Gin Masters Award at the Spirits Business Competition, too, truly cementing the City of London Distillery as a maker of premium gin. And even if that rich array of superb spirits doesn’t tickle your fancy, you can head to the distillery for a tour or workshop where you’ll be able to design and distil your very own bottle of gin with a delicate balance of botanicals. Sound good? Visit City of London Distillery to find out more. ● For more information, including the range of gins, tours and tastings, head to

or follow on social media at @cityoflondondistillery





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MORO WAS A REACTION TO NOUVELLE CUISINE AND PUTTING FOOD ON PLATES WITH TWEEZERS At London icons Moro and Morito, Sam and Sam Clark stirred a passion for home-style Moorish food, cooked with love and made to share. They talk Mike Gibson through five career-defining dishes Photography by David Harrison



HEY SAY NEVER to go into business with family. Then again, just half an hour spent with Sam and Sam Clark shows exactly why that rule is made to be broken. Watching them cook and talking to both of them, their passion for food and undeniable chemistry – even after more than two decades during which they’ve opened restaurants Moro, Morito and Morito Hackney Road – is unquestionable, and self-evident. Clark (Samantha, originally Clarke with an ‘e’) and Clark (Samuel) met after being introduced by a mutual friend who thought it was funny that they shared a name. Both had worked at the iconic River Café in Hammersmith, and they recall “flirting” and “sparring” in their home kitchens in the early days as they mapped out each others’ styles. Both share a deep-seated passion for travel, and after a period of time away from their kitchens to explore the Mediterranean together, they returned to London full of inspiration, and with a plan to create a restaurant together. Moro opened in 1997, and it pinned down their love of the flavours,

produce and techniques of Europe and the Eastern Mediterranean in a style most rooted in the Moorish-influenced tapas of southern Spain, a sun-drenched cuisine shaped over generations by North African Muslim immigrants to the country. Moro, its name, comes from the Spanish term for Moor. Evident also is the fact that these are not steely-eyed businesspeople – at least not first and foremost. They are inspired and thrilled by ingredients, by the idea of feeding people, and by each other; and in Moro and the two Morito restaurants – the former largely run by Samuel; the latter ones and the soon-toopen event space and private dining room Casa Moro, in Hackney Wick, by Samantha – they have created one of London’s great food success stories. “We came from nouvelle cuisine, and people putting food on plates with tweezers,” says Sam. “We were a reaction to that.” With their at-times rustic (although invariably beautiful) dishes created to feel welcoming and made for sharing, as well as their ever-changing menus, they were – and they remain – a truly pre-eminent and quintessentially London pair of chefs.


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SAMUEL: Pre-Moro, before Sam and I were married, when we were just flirting and having fun in the kitchen, we cooked Thai curry together. We were getting to know each other and sparring in the kitchen, playing with all these flavours. Sam travelled a lot in Thailand, and it was really close to her – happy memories from all that amazing Thai food I’d never tried. SAMANTHA: And we lived around the corner from a Thai supermarket.

SAMUEL: At home you like to get away from the flavours you work with every day, so you have fun in the kitchen. I loved the intensity, the fragrance and the complexity. There’s something about the freshness of homecooked Thai food – when the ingredients have just been blitzed and still have these volatile aromas. No restaurant can really beat it. It was a kind of precursor to what we like at Moro, which is basically quite flavourdriven – the use of spices and herbs, not expensive ingredients, really, just lots of layers of flavour.




SAMANTHA: This was on the very first menu at Moro in 1997. Before we opened the restaurant, we travelled around Morocco and Spain, and one of the things we wanted to learn is how to make the warka pastry. We found someone in Marrakech who showed us how to dab


this really wet dough on a copper frying pan and peel it off. It’s a paper-thin pastry that we wrap around the spiced crab, and serve with our harissa. That was on the opening menu and everyone went mad for it. SAMUEL: It’s a street food, basically, but we put crab in it. You make two of these layers of pastry for each one – we sold 50 portions on Friday, and I personally made 100 sheets of the pastry, so I’m slightly over it. Can we change the subject? [laughs]



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SAMUEL: This is a bit of a Morito and Moro classic – it’s fresh, it’s got all these lovely spices and herbs. The inspiration came because one of the things that intrigued me about Islamic culture in the Mediterranean was having lots of Pakistani school friends, and their mums used to make this great salsa. I never forgot

how good it was, and then with Moro I just thought ‘I can use coriander, I can use cumin, and I can basically get a Pakistani salsa salad into Moro, and no one’s going to say anything.’ So that’s sort of what we did. I think it harks back to eating this amazingly tasty, aromatically flavoured and fresh food when I was a kid. And that then led on to being interested by the Islamic culture in Spain, and being interested in the music and the architecture. You never know how things are going to affect you in life.


Gleamingly good rosé. THE TELEGRAPH

R E M M U S R E V E R O F #


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Morito Hackney Road

SAMANTHA: This fried aubergine dish is a close cousin to the fried aubergine that you get in

Andalusia with miel de caña, which is a kind of sugar cane molasses. The one we cook is with date molasses, and we also add a sauce that we’ve blitzed with feta and a touch of olive oil and water, which cuts through the rich, oily aubergine, and there’s the sweetness from the date molasses. It’s one of our classics at Morito Hackney Road, and everyone loves it.



Casa Moro


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SAMUEL: It’s got very fond memories because when we travelled in Morocco we’d go to this really remote desert market, tents blowing – it could have been a medieval market 500 years ago. There’d be one guy grilling, one guy shooing away the flies, and huge carcasses hanging up in the sun. We’d then buy these minute little chops, take them to the little barbecue place and

they’d cook them for us. And then they’d just get loads of lemon juice and cumin. It was just so simple, and it was one of those things we aspire to in a way – that type of cooking where it’s just three elements, in this case lamb chop, lemon juice and cumin, and it blows your mind. We like that sort of cookery as well, where you can just have three elements, with the fourth being the smoke and the fire. f Find out more at and, and read the full interview at


WORLD OF TASTE Inspired by global travels in search of the world’s best botanicals, and propped up by eight generations of distilling heritage, Whitley Neill gin is a supreme English spirit


HAT MAKES A great gin? For some it’s that quintessential crisp sharpness of juniper berries, for others it’s the intense flavour that blooms perfectly when paired with tonic. For many, though, it’s the tradition: and hand-crafted English gin Whitley Neill has that in buckets. Having been making gin since 1762, the family-run Whitley Neill squeezes the knowledge acquired through eight generations of distilling heritage into every bottle. And with new things being learnt through each and every generation – from spirit-making to botanical infusions and bottling – it

makes for a classic gin with great complexity and nuance. These days, Whitley Neill celebrates its heritage with a wide range of different flavours and infusions inspired by the countless places the family has travelled while searching for the perfect blend of spirit and botanicals. From the original Whitley Neill gin, inspired by the rugged terrain and mystery of South Africa, to Rhubarb & Ginger, which takes its cues from the rolling fields of England, there’s a flavour of Whitley Neill for every palate. Other flavours now available include juicy, bitter Sicily-inspired Blood

Orange; tart, fruity Raspberry inspired by Scotland; and Quince, brought to life from the family’s travels to Persia. At its heart, this is a carefully crafted and quintessentially English gin, but it’s also one that’s travelled the world – and time – to reach the glasses of connoisseurs, inquisitive minds and drinks lovers of London and beyond. And it’s about time you tasted it. ● For more information visit, follow on Twitter and Facebook at @WhitleyNeill, or on Instagram at @WhitleyNeillGin



The Andina food of Arequipa is rich in history as well as flavour. Lydia Winter discovers that preserving and celebrating the traditions of this mountainous region is about much more than just nostalgia

COB RULE: [left to right] Choclo corn; the kitchen at La Lucila; a busy local market


H “

ASTA LOS PORTALES!” An enormous glass of frothy, murky, purple something is unceremoniously plonked on the checked tablecloth in front of me. I grip the drink with both hands, raise it silently in a toast – or a plea – and, as is the custom here in the Peruvian Andes, chug all the way down to a line drawn halfway across the cup. The flavours that hit my throat are… unusual. There’s a musty yeastiness, followed by sweetness with hints of spice. Intrigued, I go for a second sip. It’s refreshing and moreish, cool but not cold, and fizzes ever-sogently against my tongue. This is chicha de guiñapo, brewed and drunk in vast quantities in picanterías, the traditional family-run restaurants found throughout the Andes of Peru. Made with only a germinated purple corn (guiñapo) that’s unique to the Arequipa region and some sugar, chicha is similar to beer, with an ABV of roughly 2-3%. The result is a rich, complex flavour that develops during an ancient fermentation process that takes place in giant earthenware tubs known as chomba, with the concho, or ‘mother’ bacteria that’s used to ferment subsequent batches of the drink. And thanks to that bacteria, it’s even considered to be good for you. “The preparation of chicha hasn’t changed for hundreds of years,” Mónica Huerta Alpaca tells me, through translation. “It’s rooted in Incan tradition, and having a good chicha is the hallmark of a good picantería.” Alpaca’s happens to be one of the best, and she has the honoured position of being head of the Picantera Society of Arequipa.


Photographs by Dave Brown

Picanteras are the Andina – Andean – women who run the picanterías in their homes, and dedicate their lives to serving food to their communities. Her chicha is famous, found at her picantería La Nueva Palomino under the clear light and deep blue skies of the Andes. We’re just outside the centre of Arequipa, the colonial-era capital city of the Andean region, which sits at 2,335m above sea level. The mountains loom large in the distance – silent, immovable sentinels standing guard over an ancient society that serve as a constant, aweinspiring reminder of where I am. Alpaca talks me through the lengthy brewing process, which has been passed down for generations. She shows me how the liquid gets strained through nets made of jute, a material that’s similar to hemp, using an ‘uaua’ movement, the same way you’d gently rock a baby to sleep. This purple liquid holds a huge amount of tradition and ritual. It’s unsurprising, given that chicha and picanterías go hand in hand; picanterías were originally chicharias, modest stalls serving drinks that evolved into sit-down restaurants more than 200 years ago, when the ladies who ran them started serving food to soak up all the booze. But there’s another reason why a good chicha means a good picantería. It can be boiled down to a thick liquid used in cooking to impart an incredible depth of flavour that’s extremely hard – if not imposssible – to replicate. The logic follows that when a picantería has a good chicha, you know it’ll have a great picante, or stew. I can personally vouch for the stew at La Nueva Palomino. It’s Sunday morning, which means pork adobo is on the menu. The dish is a spicy, hangover-defeating, mouthcoating explosion of flavour – although that may be down to the deceptively hot rocoto

pepper I accidentally eat in one go. Once I’ve recovered, the picantera, who still wears a traditional outfit complete with hat, shows me the process of making golden ocopa sauce, which gets daubed over potatoes and other tubers. In it are huacatay (Peruvian black mint); sun-dried amarillo chilies; crackers; soft, creamy queso fresco, which is similar to feta; garlic; and peanuts. These ingredients are ground together using a batàn, a bit like a giant pestle and mortar, until they become smooth. An elderly andina starts to mix everything together, her hands blurring as she picks up speed – I’m told the process is so finely honed that using a batàn is more efficient than using a blender. The ancient batàn’s surface is as worn as the andina’s face is lined; both have weathered a lifetime of experience. Alpaca doesn’t know how old her family’s stone is – research is being done to find out. These batàns, used to make several sauces and picantes, are found in every picantería, and each one is unique. They are guarded so carefully that the batàn is hidden before service every day for fear that it will be stolen, although this is now more based on superstition than fact. Everything around me, from the utensils themselves to the dishes being served, is shrouded in tradition. It rapidly becomes clear that to describe picanterías merely as restaurants is to do them an injustice. They are places of cultural exchange; they host social gatherings, political protests and live music; they are keeping the culture of the Andes alive, and the food they cook serves as a gateway to the region’s past. The humble yet utterly delicious cuisine is born out of a local →



→ larder that’s astonishingly varied. Even in Peru, a country celebrated for its biodiversity, the Andes remain mysterious. The mountain range is vast, spanning seven different South American countries. Peru alone has 11 different Andina regions, each with their own influences – both ancient and modern – geographies and cultural identities, many of which resisted the changes brought by the Spanish Conquest, but are now sadly being forgotten. Arequipa, both a city and a region, is considered to be the gastronomic heartland. It’s worlds away from anywhere I’ve ever visited before, so I’m thankful for the knowledge of my guide, Martin Morales. Morales is the restaurateur at the helm of the Ceviche Family, a group of six restaurants: Ceviche Soho and Ceviche Old St, which revolve around the dishes of the capital city of Lima and coastal Peru; Andina in Shoreditch,


Casita Andina, and now Andina Picantería and Andina Panadería in Notting Hill, which celebrate the cooking of the Andean region. Thanks to Morales and others, Peruvian dishes and ingredients have slowly trickled onto our plates here in London, but many of these are inspired by the coast – there’s a good chance ceviche is the dish you’ll think of first. Andina cooking, on the other hand, is something most of us won’t be familiar with, especially given that the cuisine is so ancient and on the verge of being forgotten that it remains relatively unknown, even in Lima. “There’s been a lack of knowledge, insight and passion,” says Morales. “The high Andes are so remarkable that you have to travel there regularly to really get under the skin of the food culture, to study the ingredients and dishes and research the techniques.” Morales’s grandmother was an Andina picantera, and he grew up entrenched in

Andean culture, which has led to his vision for sharing it with diners in London. His passion for the ingredients is palpable as we explore the market in Arequipa. He takes me from stall to stall, sampling chicharrón, roast pork belly; caldo de gallina, chicken soup; the tiniest, sweetest bananas; tumbo, a type of elongated passion fruit; golden lucuma fruits, which you’ll find painted on ancient Peruvian ceramics. And I see potatoes in their hundreds in all kinds of colours: shades of red, purple and yellow, and the powdery, white, freeze-dried (and funkytasting) potato known as chuño blanco. The cacophony of sounds, sights and smells is mesmerising. I take a wrong turn and end up in an underground room wreathed in smoke, where fortune tellers divine people’s futures using coca leaves. “I’ve been travelling to the Andes since I was four years old,” Morales tells me over freshly made juice from a market stall. “In the past few years my team and I have made 12 trips to the high Andes including Huancayo, Arequipa, Cajamarca, Puno, Cusco and Ayacucho. We want to bring these incredible stories back to London.” But there’s another reason why this is so important: preserving the past. With migration to the cities and people opting for education over such a hard way of life, two generations of picanteras and picanteros are missing, and the traditional recipes are being lost. Throw into the mix that most Peruvians who want to become chefs go to Lima to study European cooking, and it’s unsurprising that Andina cuisine has suffered. At Los Robles restaurant in Hotel Libertador, Arequipa, we find Eduardo

PUSH THE BATAN: (clockwise from top left) Doña Gladys at picantería La Lucila; potatoes at the market; carrot fritters; brewing chicha de guiñapo

Sernaqué, a modern picantero. His knowledge of traditional Andina dishes is second to none, and he’s working hard to rediscover the traditional recipes. In his elegant dining room, I eat potatoes drizzled with ocopa sauce; choclo con queso, Eduardo’s take on the popular street food that uses Peru’s pale, creamy yellow giant corn; cabrilla, a Peruvian rock sea bass with pumpkin; llama ossobuco and pesque de quinoa, which is a bit like an indulgent risotto that uses the nutty curlicues of quinoa grain; and much, much more. It’s all undeniably delicious, but what strikes me most is that it’s mainly the presentation that differs so much to the dishes that you eat in the picanterías. The plates are dressed so elegantly they’d easily fit in at a fine-dining restaurant in London. They taste equally good, too – but then they always did, even when I was eating them at the roadside and at market stalls. The biggest difference comes in the surroundings. At La Lucila, a picantería in Arequipa’s Sachaca district that’s more than 100 years old, I sit in a kitchen with whitewashed adobo walls, where there’s no electricity or gas, only running water. It’s as rustic as you could possibly get. I eat ocopa sauce and pork adobo as guinea pigs squeak and skitter around on the kitchen floor. Guinea pig is a traditional meat found all over the Andes. The little creatures are kept in the kitchens, free to run around – you could call them free range – before being used in a variety of dishes. Elsewhere, at a food market, I eat cuy (guinea pig) al palo, stuffed with Peruvian herbs and roasted over coals on

a spit. The skin is crispy and addictive, like crackling, and the flesh is juicy. Even now, a few months later, I’m drooling. Those cute furry things are really damned tasty. As I’m leaving a few days later, I feel I’ve barely scratched the surface. “Every time my chefs and I come back, we discover a new technique, grain, fruit, drink or dish,” says Morales. “It’s so important to us that we represent these flavours and stories authentically and with respect.” I feel daunted by his mission. Later this month, Morales is opening another Andina and Andina Bakery, inspired by the research of this trip. For me, his main challenge will be to convey the Andean spirit to the mouths and hearts of trend-hungry Londoners. Having travelled with his team of chefs for a week, I’m bowled over by their dedication and knowledge: “The way I see it, the flavours need to travel from your tongue to the thicker membrane of your heart,” the Ceviche Family’s executive chef Vitelio Reyes tells me. “I do that by making sure I represent all the layers of Andean cooking.” Back in the UK, I crave the beauty of Arequipa and the warmth of the Andean people; the sky looks dull and London feels disappointingly flat. But thanks to Morales and his team, at least I’ll still be able to get a taste of true Andean soul food, and I’ll raise a few glasses of chicha to that. f Andina and Andina Bakery in Notting Hill open this month. Visit for more. ‘Andina: The Heart of Peruvian Food’ by Martín Morales is out now, published by Quadrille. Lydia Winter travelled as a guest of PROMPERÚ. For more information visit

THE DISHES OF THE ANDES Torrejas de Sachaca The Sachaca district is known for its carrot fritters, and the ones at picantería La Lucila are some of the best. They’re light and crunchy, served with a rocoto pepper sauce.

Sango Sango was the main side dish in the Andes before rice was introduced. It’s made with wheat cooked with sugar cane, cinnamon, raisins and peanuts, and is often served alongside a meaty stew to soak up the juices.

Anticuchos These cow heart kebabs are one of Peru’s best-known dishes, and you’ll find them being cooked at roadsides all around the country.

Pachamanca This ancient technique involves cooking meat underground, under large heated stones and banana leaves. Not one to try at home, then. Photography by Dave Brown

Choclo con queso Another popular street food snack, you can buy enormous cobs of the pale yellow giant corn native to Peru with creamy queso fresco just about anywhere. Added chili optional.



New menu The Modern Life of Plants aims to take acclaimed bar Dandelyan’s conversation about sustainability to an industrial scale, writes Mike Gibson



Rhubarb-infused vermouth? Yep. Absinthe? All checks out. Tapatío tequila infused with naturally occurring chemical lanolin, which keeps the wool of sheep and other ruminants lubricated? Yep. That’s a Dandelyan cocktail you won’t forget.

INGREDIENTS ◆◆ 55ml lanolin-washed Tapatío ◆◆ 10ml rhubarb vermouth ◆◆ 1 dash absinthe

Stir the ingredients over ice and strain into a chilled flute glass.


INCE HE FIRST set up shop in London, Ryan Chetiyawardana – the mixologist behind a raft of sustainably focused bars, known more commonly as Mr Lyan – has focused on creating drinking experiences that do more than serve up delicious cocktails. Whether it’s a list of drinks created using no fresh ingredients or ice at his Hoxton bar White Lyan (now Super Lyan) or the zero-waste bar and restaurant Cub (coowned by sustainable food evangelist Doug McMaster), his projects are designed to get the mind going just as much as the tastebuds, and to get drinkers and diners thinking about sustainable sourcing and living at every turn. With the new menu at his bar Dandelyan, at the Mondrian London hotel on the Southbank, Chetiyawardana and awardwinning head bartender Alex Lawrence’s focus turns to industrialisation – especially seeing as this World’s 50 Best Bars runner-up is a venue that serves drinks on a highvolume basis. More influenced by teeming markets, factories and the urban metropolis than small-scale agriculture and other things normally associated with the sustainability conversation, The Modern Life of Plants recognises that a large-scale system is necessary to feed the world’s population. The BC3 Negroni – with its deep, Irn-Bru colour, a bitterness you feel in the jaw and a pleasing honeyed sweetness – explores bees: by using pollen, aged honey and propolis (a compound made naturally by bees in the hive and often used as a health food) it showcases the raw, processed and industrialised form of the same raw material. The good thing for drinkers? Whether the drinks make you think or not, they’re still invariably delicious. f Mondrian London, 20 Upper Ground, SE1 9PD;

Photograph by (mondrian) Niall Clutton





Built around vodka, vermouth and the house-made ‘companion cordial’, this is about as straightforward (and refreshing) as a Mr Lyan cocktail gets.

ING REDIENTS ◆◆ 30ml Grey Goose ◆◆ 30ml Noilly Prat

◆◆ 30ml ‘companion cordial’ ◆◆ 100ml soda water

Build over ice, garnish with a pear disc and julienned mint, and top with the soda.


The menu is partly inspired by the massive, teeming Rungis International Market, located just 7km from Paris, which we visited with Chetiyawardana and head bartender Alex Lawrence. At 234 hectares, it’s the biggest market of its type in the world. Chetiyawardana and Lawrence were interested in how the market acts like an organism of its own. With so many moving parts, it has to work sustainability into its operations while feeding a huge number of people via shops and markets all over France and in Europe, on a truly industrial scale.

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The Air Raid adds a little colour, bite and texture to a home-infused gin with juices, cordials and a little chickpea water, too, as well as a touch of Irish whiskey.

IN G R ED IEN TS ◆◆ 50ml Mr Lyan Cream Gin ◆◆ 10ml Jameson whiskey

◆◆ 10ml pearl barley cordial ◆◆ 10ml lemon

◆◆ 10ml grapefruit

◆◆ 10ml carrot syrup ◆◆ 5ml aquafaba

Shake and serve straight up. Garnish with a bay leaf.

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FLOWER POWER St-Germain is a French liqueur made from fresh elderflowers. Here’s why it’s the spirit you need in your life this summer, plus your chance to win a luxury hamper


LTHOUGH IT MIGHT sound obvious, in our opinion the best drinks are the ones that taste of something. Not just ones that have flavour, but ones whose distinct character can be traced back inimitably to the ingredients that make it up. A gin with flavours of fresh, tart juniper and peppery botanicals, for instance, or a dark rum that bears the unmistakable touch of molasses and rich, spicy and caramel notes from the


inside of the barrel it’s aged in. This is absolutely true of St-Germain. The iconic French liqueur has been a fixture of the bar landscape for over a decade, but you’d be forgiven for not having tried it, or not knowing what sets it apart from other liqueurs on the rack. That particular character comes from elderflowers. Not an essence, not an engineered ingredient, but the best hand-picked fresh elderflowers. That’s why when you drink it – whether that’s in a St-Germain Spritz, to liven up a gin and tonic or as the base of a champagne or prosecco cocktail – that’s exactly what you’ll taste. Like the sound of that? We’ve got a St-Germain hamper to give away to one foodism reader, so you can try this remarkable French spirit for yourself. ● St-Germain is available to buy from Ocado, Waitrose and Fortnum & Mason. Follow on Instagram at @StGermainDrinks.UK or on Facebook at @StGermainUK



Your summer could be about to take a turn for the better: one lucky reader will win a luxury hamper worth £300, with a St-Germain bottle, WIN Martini Prosecco, accessories and nibbles – all the ingredients for the perfect French aperitif. For T&Cs and to enter, go to


Start your trip by train Fast, frequent services and great value fares

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— PART 3 —




TIME TO SHINE The wines coming out of South Africa’s beautiful Cape Winelands region are innovative and impressive, and there’s a food scene to match, says Lucy McGuire

Photograph by wilpunt / Getty Images


VINE AND DANDY: They don’t call it the Cape Winelands for nothing – there are miles and miles of vineyards covering the area. That’s an awful lot of wine…

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’M LYING FLAT on my back in a vineyard feeling rather intoxicated. But, before you judge, it’s not what you think. During a whistle-stop tour of South Africa’s Cape Winelands, I’ve stopped at Babylonstoren, a winery housed in one of the region’s oldest Cape Dutch farms, slap bang in the middle of Stellenbosch, Franschhoek and Paarl. And it’s here I find myself lying down, staring at the sky on a spongy lawn of chamomile, during a tour of their gardens, with head gardener Liesl van der Walt. I love this woman. She looks every bit the part in her wide-rimmed hat and gardener’s apron. And her passion for nature is infectious. “Breathe in the figs”, “caress the cacti,” she says, plucking fresh fruit from the trees. We’re encouraged to lie down and “close your eyes and breathe.” I imagined many potential scenarios on this trip: slurring my words in a tasting room, crashing out fully clothed… But being intoxicated by daisies? Nope. Yet here I am feeling positively high on nature. The thing is, Babylonstoren and its wholesome philosophy seems to have that affect on you, and our jaws hit the floor when we pull into the car park and see the backdrop for the first time. The beauty of the Simonsberg slopes – where they grow their tip-top chardonnay and pinot noir grapes – and the conical hill, which 17th century Dutch farmers named Babilonische Tooren (after the biblical Tower of Babel) verges on the absurd. We drop our bags in our room, which is set within a traditional Cape Dutch farm building, and then make a beeline straight for the wine cellars.


“I was tripping over everything like someone who’d drank the whole tank of wine,” quips Janene, who leads our cellar tour. I assume she’s recalling a night of one too many chardonnays, however she’s explaining the intoxicating effect of their fermentation tanks during winemaking season. While in the past, winemakers squelched their feet in the grapes to ‘break the cake’ (the thick layer of grape skins at the top of the barrel), these days they use a kind of steel ‘spade’. Too long around this fermenting fruit and you can feel like you’ve been on the plonk. “I had to go to church and my eyes were so red, they thought that I’d been drinking” Janene laughs. “After a whole day at work you can feel a bit light-headed.” This place clearly doesn’t take itself too seriously. But as we quaff glasses of their strawberry yoghurt-like Mourvèdre Rosé, and their signature Babel, we begin to understand its fairly new prestige. That night, we dine in the estate’s farmto-fork restaurant Babel. Vegetable croutons, crunchy salads and miso-marinated chicken with a piquant kimchi appear to tick off all colours of the rainbow. It’s not yawn-worthily virtuous here (the candy floss dessert is testament to that), but their ‘pick, clean and serve’ philosophy proves that sometimes, food is best served in its most natural form. The next stop is Franschhoek, the socalled ‘granddaddy of viticulture’ where the French settled in the 1600s. Now dubbed the ‘gourmet capital of South Africa’, it’s also where myriad biltong shops, wine bars and chocolatiers tempt you to over-indulge. We check into the Leeu Estates, a working wine farm and flagship property of the Leeu

WINE HOUSE: [this image] The Mullineux & Leeu Family Wines estate; [below] innovative dishes from the Tasting Room at Le Quartier Francais, and [middle] Leeu Estates’ Dining Room restaurant


Collection. Nostrils and tastebuds at the ready, we try some silky syrah and a soft chenin ‘Old Vines’ from the Mullineux & Leeu Family Wines collection. And while this winery ‘rips up the rulebook’ by blending grapes from seven sustainable farmers across Swartland, it’s clearly doing something right. Twice they’ve picked up the Platter’s Wine Guide award for the best winery in South Africa. We spend our evening in Leeu Estates’ The Dining Room, where British chef Oliver Cattermole is at the helm. He seems a chap of few words, but his crispy-skinned salmon with earthy aubergine purée and olive salsa totally speaks my language. My evening ends with an apple terrine topped with unctuous salted caramel sauce, and a cheeky glass of

their sweet-as-nectar Olerasay straw wine. Franschhoek boasts a healthy selection of top-rated restaurants. But what we don’t expect to find in this quaint town is partmicrobrewery-part-Mexican-eatery Tuk Tuk, which serves craft beers produced on site and by The Cape Brewing Company. We drop in for a tour with Brew master Dewald Goosen, who proudly describes his office as a “very nice little brewery on steroids”. “People are definitely surprised but at the same time very welcoming to the concept,” he says. “We have to get rid of the idea that it’s a craft beer, and that it’s supposed to look, taste and smell like that. I’m trying to promote the idea that beer can be just as complex as wine” This year, Dewald will unveil a ‘sipping beer’ that’s been barreled for 18 months. →


WE GO ON A ‘WINE SAFARI’ AND DROP INTO ROOTS 44 MARKET TO TRY ROOIBOS TEA WINE → “It will have a 12% volume and needs this time to mellow out,” he says, “It will be served like champagne.” You heard it here first. The signs of innovation in this wine region keep unravelling, especially when we stop by The Tasting Room at Le Quartier Francais – a restaurant that’s frequently listed as one of the country’s very best. Highlights here include pork belly drizzled with fynbos-infused caramel and a plate of what I can only describe as beetroot ‘bubbles’ sprinkled with spekboom. Those who don’t like the surprise menu concept should keep their distance but I’m completely won over by the theatrical waiters and kookiness of this place. Go now before it closes this August. Or failing that, try out its replacement, set to be led by no other than the team behind the acclaimed La Colombe. After a day of fasting following the

BREW IN TOWN: Fine wining and dining at Leeu Estates in Franschhoek; [below] the town is also home to Tuk Tuk microbrewery, serving craft beer that’s made on site

previous day’s excess (OK, I lie), we arrive at Jordan Wine Estate – a winery at the upper end of Stellenbosch Kloof that produces a large collection of accessible New World wine. Husband and wife duo Kathy and Gary run the High Timber restaurant in London. So I’m excited to dine in the Jordan restaurant, headed up by George Jardine. I dunk a delicious South African vetkoek (or ‘fatcake’) into a steaming hot bowl of mussels and savour every mouthful of a delicious trio of roasted boerbok. It’s a cool place to spend a few days enjoying their ‘wine safaris’ and we drop into the nearby Roots 44 Market to hang out with wine-swilling boho types and suss out the hype around Audacia winery’s rooibos tea wine. There’s one final stop I want to make


before I bid goodbye to the vineyards. It’s Delaire Graff, an estate just outside of Stellenbosch whose hilltop restaurant alone delivers the wow factor. And aside from its jolly good wine and fabulously artistic food, there’s one thing we take away from this sophisticated spot – our waiter Danny’s description of the chenin blanc Swartland Reserve. “I guess it smells a little bit like smelly socks,” he says. And there you go. I leave the Cape Winelands for the Mother City, having learned a few things about this place: it doesn’t take itself too seriously; it often rips up the rulebooks and it never fails to surprise. I hope I haven’t put you off your wine. f For more information, visit;;;


FLUID DYNAMICS Boutique Californian wine brand Orin Swift has always taken a unique approach to winemaking, design and flavour – and now seven of its wines are available in the UK


HE FIRST TIME you see a bottle of Orin Swift wine, you’re going to have a few questions. Such as, ‘what is this?’, ’who makes it?’ and ‘what’s the deal with those labels?’. These aren’t wines that stay hidden on the shelf. There’s no getting away from the fact that the boutique Californian wine brand – founded in 1998 by Dave Phinney – does things differently, whether that’s


the bottles or what goes into them. The good news for wine drinkers is that Phinney’s uncompromising approach yields extraordinary results. As legendary US wine critic Robert Parker puts it, “His Midas touch with grapes from seemingly anywhere in the world, is unusual, but the brilliance of the wines, his creativeness and unparalleled blending talents have built an incredible portfolio. People looking for personality filled wines of considerable character and complexity need to check out the Orin Swift offerings.” Though Phinney started out in political science, a lengthy trip to Italy in 1995 turned him on to wine, and on his return to the US he began to experiment with growing and creating his own. He’s been doing just that ever since, with an approach to winemaking that’s based on feel and instinct rather than structure and tradition. It’s more like art than

science, and Orin Swift’s labels – some abstract collages, some part-sculpture, some gritty photographs, all shamelessly in-your-face – speak for themselves. Now wine lovers in the UK can get their hands on a bottle, with the release of seven Orin Swift wines in the UK. Two of them white (Mannequin and Blank Stare) and five red (Abstract, Machete, Palermo, Papillon and Mercury Head), each of the wines has its own personality, though the philosophy remains the same. These wines are made to express the profile and character of fruit from some of the best vineyards in California, with their intensity of flavour backed up by an unapologetically full body. With Orin Swift, Dave Phinney has taken Californian wine to places it’s never been to before. Now his wines are available here in the UK, there’s no reason to look back. ● Buy Orin Swift at:




Explore pĂŠtillant naturel wines, an interesting alternative to the usual sparkling offerings, as well as fantastic summer sherries and British lagers 94

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Pétillant naturel While pétillant naturel (otherwise known as méthode ancestrale, or pét-nat) wines have bubbles, they’re a far cry from champagne, prosecco, cava and other wines made with the ‘traditional method’. Pét-nats carry on a historic tradition: the first fermentation is halted before it’s finished, allowing carbonation to occur in the bottle, with no second fermentation. The result is a gently sparkling, funky-tasting wine with a unique texture.

Photography by David Harrison

1 LOXAREL A PEL ANCESTRAL PET NAT 2016, Penedès, Spain. A refined pét-nat, made with the xarel lo grape in the Catalonian region of Penedès. Notes of pear and citrus and some salinity. 12%, 75cl; £21.35, 2 LES NOADES “GRIBULLES” 2016, Anjou, France. A


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chenin blanc-led blend from the Loire, with characteristic pear flavours and aromatic character. 11%, 75cl; £19, 3 RENEGADE LONDON WINE NAT FIZ, Bethnal Green, London, UK. Referred to as a “nat fiz”, and made in a similar way to a pét-nat, from the London winemaker determined to rip up the rulebook. 13%, 75cl; £20, 4 MAISON 54 PET NAT 2017, Bergerac, France. A coventure between Borough Wines co-founder Muriel Chatel and master of wine Liam Steevenson, this is an experimental, lively pét-nat made with sauvignon blanc and chenin blanc. 11%, 75cl; £15, 5 MINIMUS PETILLANT NATUREL 2015, Carlton, OR, USA. Made with the müllerthurgau grape, a riesling offshoot, this is fruity and herbaceous. 12%, 75cl; £29.10,




From selected Tesco EXPRESS stores

might serve a vermouth. 75cl, 17%; £14.75,

Summer Sherries Photography by David Harrison


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Made in the Spanish region of Jerez, sherry (the anglicisation) has become one of the world’s most popular fortified wines. And while the sweet and oloroso varieties in particular tend to be quite

heavy and suited to winter drinking, fino, amontillado and manzanilla in particular are perfect for chilling. They’re often drunk alongside tapas dishes in Spain, or as an aperitif on a sunny terrace. 1 FERNANDO DE CASTILLA CLASSIC AMONTILLADO, Cádiz, Spain. While this sherry has got some of the spicier notes of a winter sherry, it works really well served on the rocks with a slice of orange, as you

2 LUSTAU FINO 3 EN RAMA, El Puerto de Santa María, Spain. A fino sherry, made with the palomino grape variety. Finos tend to be quite saline, with an olivelike character. 15%, 50cl; £16.95, 3 VALDESPINO MANZANILLA DELICOSA, Jerez de la Frontera, Spain. A crisp, refreshing and slightly savoury sherry from the historic bodega (sherry house) Valdespino, made with grapes from a single vineyard. 15%, 75cl; £12.65,




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2 TWO TRIBES NON STOP HITS, King’s Cross, London, UK. A full-flavoured and hoppy modern lager from new London brewery Two Tribes. 5%, 330ml;

1 LOST & GROUNDED KELLER PILS, Bristol, UK. A modern version of the classic pilsner style that originated in the Czech Republic. 4.8%, 330ml;

3 WILD CARD JOKER, Walthamstow, London, UK. A refreshing pilsner from one of London’s best brewers, made with English hops. 4.4%, 330ml;

4 CAMDEN TOWN INNER CITY GREEN, Enfield, London, UK. Camden might have scaled up dramatically in recent years, but this lager is proof it’s still turning out interesting beers. 3.9%, 330ml; 5 FREEDOM FOUR BRITISH LAGER, Staffordshire, UK. A proper British lager from the sustainable brewer. 4%, 330ml;

Photography by David Harrison


A style perfected in central Europe, lager almost goes under the radar in the craftbeer scene. Here are a few fantastic British examples.


TALKING SENSES If you want to take a journey into the world of wine, book yourself in to an interactive wine course at iconic London cookery school Le Cordon Bleu


E CORDON BLEU might be best known for its comprehensive Culinary Arts Diplomas, which are recognised worldwide as a mark of excellence. But the iconic cookery school has also developed a range of professional courses in wine and beverages, which deliver the same high standards of quality training and expertise. For those dedicated individuals who have a keen interest in wine, and who wish to transform their passion into a career, Le Cordon Bleu offers the six-month Diploma in Wine, Gastronomy


and Management. The comprehensive course has been developed by wine professionals and a Master Sommelier. The programme explores the theory behind wine and beverages and places a strong emphasis on practical learning. With students visiting renowned wineries, breweries and distilleries in the UK and France and with more than 500 wines, spirits and other drinks tasted during the course, it’s one of the most interactive wine courses in the UK. The programme incorporates sensorial analysis as well as teaching about wine production, and food and wine pairing. Not only that, but it also places a strong focus on the marketing and business management skills needed to succeed in the food and drink industry. The Wine Diploma can also be studied in two parts taking three months each, giving students the flexibility to fit studies around other commitments. For wine enthusiasts after something a little less intensive, Le Cordon Bleu London offers Wine Essentials, a seven day evening course designed to give a

deeper understanding and appreciation of wine through the study of some key winemaking processes, regions and relevant topics. These include wine legislation, storing and serving, and the ageing process. There’s the opportunity to learn from expert wine professionals in a lively, friendly but studious atmosphere that encourages students to actively participate in discussions. Or, for amateurs who want just a taster of the Le Cordon Bleu experience, the institute offers a two-and-a-half-hour interactive demonstration, with canapés and wine pairings. Under the guidance of a teaching chef and a wine specialist, participants will learn how to train their palate and tastebuds in order to successfully match food and wine. So, if you’re a wine fanatic looking for the next step, take a wine course at Le Cordon Bleu London and embark on a journey into the world of wine. For more information or to book a course, call 020 7400 3900 or go to


SIPS IN THE NIGHT With exclusive courses from iconic wine merchant Berry Bros. & Rudd for foodism readers, there’s never been a better way to demystify the world of wine


OT MANY BUSINESSES can boast of a proud history that spans more than three centuries. But that’s exactly what sets Berry Bros. & Rudd, the wine merchant based in St. James’s in SW1A, apart from its competition: more than 300 years of authority in the wine industry. But the merchant has never been one to rest on its laurels, and


now it’s taking on the mantle of passing those centuries of knowledge on to you. With its curated classes, Berry Bros. aims to show the people of London and beyond that wine is something to be richly enjoyed, debated and, of course, tasted – not something to be scared of. Because wine education isn’t just fun – it can be an amazing way of getting



THE KEY INFO The foodism Beginner’s Guide to Grapes, in association with Berry Bros. & Rudd, are four events that each explore the characteristics of eight particular grapes – how and where they’re grown, and how they’re expressed in different parts of the world, with a drinks reception and a tutored tasting session. The events run on 15 June, 22 June, 6 August and 7 August from 6:308:30pm. What’s more, you can bag a ticket to any of them for just £65; £40 off full price. T&Cs apply. For more information or to book, go to foodism, email eventsandeducation@ or call 020 3301 1680

CLASS ACT: (clockwise from left) A Wine School event taking place; Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir grapes with examples of their flavour profiles; glasses ready for a tasting in the cellar

Photograph by (wine school/tasting galsses) Jason Lowe

to know your own palate better, too. This means that as well as the tangible knowledge you’ll gain – the kind that’ll help you decode wine lists and give you an eye for value – you’ll be able to train your palate to identify flavours you like and ones you’d rather avoid; to judge a wine’s complexity by way of how many different flavour notes you can pick up; and to confidently give your observations on what you’re tasting. Berry Bros. & Rudd’s Wine School is located in a setting unlike any other: the historic wine cellars underneath the merchant’s St James’s Street shop, from which it’s done business since the late 17th century. And unlike some educational tastings, Berry Bros.’ courses aren’t stuffy, nor do they cater solely for people with an existing high level of knowledge; they’re fun, interactive and with an emphasis on enjoying yourself while you learn. That’s why we at foodism are proud to team up with Berry Bros. & Rudd for four events, exclusively available to our readers, where you’ll break down eight classic grape varieties through discussions, tastings (blind and otherwise) and even a drinks reception, too. For more information, see above. ● Berry Bros. & Rudd’s Wine School is located in The Pickering Cellar, 3 St James’s Street, SW1A 1EG. For more information, go to


SUMMER SIPPING Berry Bros. & Rudd might have been in business since the late 1600s, but this iconic wine merchant isn’t always a creature of tradition. Its Own Selection range is a great example: working closely with selected wine partners allows Berry Bros. to bottle some of the best examples of a hugely diverse array of wine styles, and give them to you at a great price. We’ve picked out four different bottles, all equally suited to drinking in the summertime.


Whether it’s a wedding, picnic, summer party or a drink on the terrace, usher in the sun with these beautiful Own Selection wines from Berry Bros. & Rudd 102


THE BOTTLES 1 2013 Berry Bros. & Rudd English Sparkling Wine by Gusbourne Estate (£25.95). A classic example of why English sparkling wine is so sought-after, grown with Champagne-blend grapes on south-facing slopes in Kent. 2 2016 Berry Bros. & Rudd PulignyMontrachet, Dom. Jean-Louis Chavy (£35). A wonderfully complex, elegant and refined Chardonnay from the famed Burgundy village of PulignyMontrachet. 3 2016 Berry Bros. & Rudd Provence Rosé by Château la Mascaronne (£12.95). A classic summer sipper made with Grenache and Cinsault, from stony soils and made with organic grapes. 4 2016 Berry Bros. & Rudd OldBlocks Chenin Blanc by Tierhoek (£14.25). A wine that blends fresh, vibrant and rich, fruity notes of pear, quince and grapefruit. All available to buy from the Berry Bros. & Rudd London Shop (63 Pall Mall, SW1Y 5HZ) and online at

Photograph by M Hasteley




The inaugural Black Deer festival brings a host of London chefs to its Kent location in June, for an all-out celebration of Americana, from country music to wood-fired food


F ALL THE food and music match-ups in the world, there’s nothing that goes together quite like country music and good old American barbecue. There’s a rich tradition of pitmasters cooking with fire and smoke throughout the American South, where each region has developed its own unique style and flavour, and one of the USA’s favourite home-grown music genres has been perfected. So it figures that, if you’re going to put on a massive celebration of Americana in the UK – one that celebrates everything from country music to custom motorbikes, whiskey and everything in between – you’re going to want to bring some of the UK’s most celebrated

IN THE NAME OF FLAME: [above] Charcoal going on the barbecue; [below] shortribs in the smoker at the festivals Live Fire food hub


live-fire chefs along for the ride. That’s exactly what Black Deer’s done. The festival, taking place from 22-24 June in Eridge Park near Tunbridge Wells in Kent, has brought together musicians from the world of folk, blues and country from the UK, the USA and beyond (the likes of Iron & Wine, Passenger, The Wandering Hearts and more), but also chefs including Temper’s Neil Rankin, Caravan’s Matt Burgess, Hunter Gather Cook’s Nick Weston, Grillstock founders Jon Finch and Ben Merrington, and the London Log Co’s founder Mark Parr, to cook and present at the festival’s Live Fire area, with demos, cookouts and more. It’s a match made in heaven, and perfected in the Deep South. f


Feelin’ hungry? Black Deer runs from 22-24 June. Weekend and day tickets are available, and camping options range from General Camping to bell tents, yurts and bowtop caravans in the Fancy Camping areas, with plots for motorhomes and caravans available, too (which must be booked in advance). Day tickets start at £40, while weekend tickets start at £150. Prices based on adults and do not include booking fees. For more information and to book, go to




At the rate we’re going, there’s a good chance that there’ll be more plastic floating around in the ocean than fish by 2050. About time we took some action. Enter Choose Water, a revolutionary water bottle that’s plastic free, completely biodegradable and sourced from nontoxic, naturally occurring materials that don’t require fossil fuels to produce.

The best of spring’s food and drink industry news

Each bottle takes between two and three weeks to degrade, and dissolves into a substance that’s beneficial to ocean life when it does. And if that’s not already enough to convert you, all profits will go to the charity Water Africa. Pretty neat, huh? The project is currently crowdfunding £25,000 to get production off the ground. We’ll drink to that. Find the Choose Water crowdfunding campaign at; @choosewater

SOLD! 22 July marks the triumphant return of the iconic Auction Against Hunger to Borough Market. The event brings together some of the biggest names in the capital’s food scene to raise crucial funds for the charity Action Against Hunger, which fights poverty and child hunger in the developing world. This year’s line-up is still yet to be announced at the moment, but watch this space.



Veggies, vegans and meat-free eaters get ready, because Linda’s Veggie Table is back. This year, legendary meat-free food producer Linda McCartney’s is teaming up with The Wanted’s Jay McGuiness to celebrate National Vegetarian Week and demo delicious recipes at Oui Rooms in Fitzrovia from 19-20 May. All proceeds go to The Trussell Trust.

From the science behind flavours to the history of trade and travel that props up the produce we buy today, there’s a rich story behind the food you find on every plate. And at the British Library’s 2018 food season, you’ll be able to learn about all of it, from the flavour of terroir (or soil, topography and climate) in cheese and wine to the philosophical and cultural movements behind coffee. The series of special events, talks, tastings, sensory banquet dinners and more runs from 3 May to 2 June, and is certain to leave you full to bursting with new ideas (and loads of tasty food and drink, too, obviously). For more information about the British Library’s food season, head to



How much would you pay for two nice bottles of scotch? £70? £100? How about £873,990? Yep, that’s how much two extremely rare bottles of The Macallan 1926 just went for at Dubai-based airport retailer Le Clos, setting a new world record for the most expensive whisky bottle ever sold. Forget the price, though, just close your eyes, splash the cash and think of that duty-free discount.


A little over a year ago, 28-year-old Pippa Kent was wheeled into an operating theatre for a double lung transplant that would save her life, but left her taking immune suppressants that will change her eating habits forever. A year later, and she’s launching a Kickstarter for a celebrity cookbook called Now What Can I Eat? that’ll contain immune suppressant-friendly dishes from Gizzi Erskine, Tommy Banks, Lili Vanilli, Leon and more, helping thousands of sufferers in the UK eat better, tastier food every day. Find out more about Now What Can I Eat? at

Photographs by 9Street Smart) Justine Trickett; (Wiltons) Michael Paul


According to research by Le Cordon Bleu London, more than half of Brits would change their career to do something they enjoy. Good news: with Le Cordon Bleu, you can do just that. The newly launched Julia Child Scholarship – worth over £45,000 – will kick-start a career in food and drink for someone who lacks the money and skill sets to do so. The scholarship includes a place on the Le Cordon Bleu Grand Diplôme, an internship at Mere Restaurant under the guidance of Monica Galetti, and luxury accommodation in London.



DARE TO DIFFER A brand-new restaurant has landed in Brighton, bringing with it an unrelenting focus on quality, and a different, innovative approach to creating the best-tasting grub


N A FOOD-LOVING city like Brighton, it can be hard for a restaurant to stand out from the crowd. But Dough Lover, the city's new opening, is making a name for itself thanks to its creative approach to absolutely everything from cooking to coffee and cocktails.

The team specialises in making new versions of the food and drink you consume each and every day, making them better-tasting, and better for you and the planet, too. The team make their own nut milk using organic cashews and tiger nuts. Why? Because the team


believe that almond milk and coffee don't go well together. This is is just one example of the ways Dough Lover goes to extra lengths for the sake of its food. The restaurant has its own centrifuge machine, which it uses to make its sodas and soft drinks. The machine separates juice from pulp, creating drinks that have around a tenth of the sugar of conventional fizzy drinks. Many of Dough Lovers' cakes have no sugar and are vegan; the restaurant only uses the best butter, virgin coconut oil and extra virgin olive oil; the cockails are mixed using house-made essences, and artisanal spirits; and absolutely everything is gluten free – including the sourdough and buttermilk fried chicken. You'll have to taste it to believe it. � For more info, go to, follow on Instagram at @dough_lover or Facebook at @DoughLoverBrighton, or call 01273 620036



WORK THE ROOM: Hob2Hood cooker hood, £1,399; MaxiSense Combi Hob, £1,399; SenseCook Pyro Oven, £1,049; ComfortLift Built-in Dishwasher, £99; CustomFlex fridge-freezer, £1,299; all items from AEG

COOK UP A STORM We’ve teamed up with AEG to offer you the chance to sharpen up your skills and improve your cooking with Tom Hunt on 6 June. Here’s how to get a slice of the action

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW Fancy taking your culinary ability up a notch this summer? You’re in luck. Join us at the AEG Live cooking masterclass with eco-chef and columnist Tom Hunt at the HelloFresh Cookery School in London (EC2A 2BN) on Wednesday 6 June. A pair of tickets will cost just £20. While you’re there, you’ll get hands-on tuition from Tom Hunt, as well as the chance to try out some of AEG’s top-ofthe-line cookery gear. To book your place at the event, just send an email to foodismevent@ For more information on AEG head to



ITH EATING IN fast becoming the new eating out, it’s probably about time you brushed up your culinary skills to make sure that next time you have a dinner party, you’re the host with the most. That’s why we’ve partnered with AEG to offer you a unique reader event, where you’ll get to learn some tips and tricks during a hands-on cookery masterclass with chef, AEG Tastemaker and foodism columnist Tom Hunt. From 6:30-9pm on 6 June, you’re invited to the HelloFresh kitchen, near Old Street, to get stuck in with top-notch ingredients and some of AEG’s ultraresponsive cooking technology. Don’t worry if you’re not already a culinary genius: that’s why Tom’s there. The root-to-fruit chef will be on hand to

help guests throughout the evening, so grab your apron and toque blanche (that’s a chef’s hat, by the way), because an unforgettable evening jam-packed with culinary delights awaits you. Tickets cost just £20 for two, and include a complimentary glass of champagne on arrival, plus wine pairings with each dish you cook throughout the evening. Obviously, you’ll get the opportunity to taste the fruits of your (and Tom’s) labour while you’re there, too – so there’s absolutely no way you’ll be going hungry. So what are you waiting for? Whether you’re a total novice or a wannabe chef, grab yourself a ticket, join us at AEG Live on 6 June and elevate your cooking to new heights. ●


A BREED APART Richard H Turner heads to Scotland in search of rare, magnificent livestock and sustainable seafood. And he’s not going home without a bag full of haggis, either


Photograph by Paul Winch-Furness

T’S BLOODY EARLY when the driver texts me to say he’ll arrive in 15 minutes, and still dark as I leave for the airport a mere hour before take-off. It takes a lot to get me up and about this early, but this trip’s a good one – I’m off to Scotland to source ingredients for the new Hawksmoor, opening in Edinburgh this summer. As always there’s an ulterior motive: in this case haggis. I adore these odd-looking little Scottish parcels; they have my heart, liver and lungs. There’s no hanging around once we land in Edinburgh; the team and I head to the village of Gordon to meet Robin and Alison Tuke at Hardiesmill Place, where they rear 100% pure Aberdeen Angus cattle. The Tukes aren’t just passionate about their beef – they’re seriously geeky and rightly proud. Pure Angus cattle typically mature earlier than other native British breeds and are hardy enough to survive harsh Scottish winters. Aberdeen Angus is a truly famous – if much abused – breed name, since a lot of today’s beef contains some Angus genes. Originally developed from cattle native to the counties of Aberdeenshire and Angus, the breed has been recorded since the 16th century, though it became commonplace throughout the British Isles by the middle of the 20th century. Now their genes are used the world over to grow ‘prime’ beef. In Europe meat can be sold as Aberdeen Angus if it is just 50% Angus genes, so almost all meat sold as such is actually a cross. Thanks to commercial factors, such as the slow rate of weight gain, 100% pure Aberdeen Angus beef is rare and rather special. The Tukes’ beef is how I imagine Aberdeen Angus tasted before the law made it possible to call any old animal an Angus just by its sire (the bull). That’s a strange notion, because the traits that typically confer the best flavour in beef pass through the maternal not the paternal line, and it’s the reason why supermarket ‘100% Aberdeen Angus’ is a misnomer and tastes of so little. Not this stuff, though.

The following day we catch the ferry to Mull to visit Iain Mackay and his Highland cattle. Torloisk Highland ‘coos’ are tough and hairy, and one of Britain’s purest breeds, having been improved by selection rather than cross breeding. These beautiful beasts originated here in the Highlands and Western Isles of Scotland, and have long horns and long wavy double coats that are coloured black, brindle, red, yellow and blonde. Combined with the ability to forage in steep mountain areas and expose plants buried by snow with their horns, those coats make them ideally suited to Highland conditions. Coos don’t come any hardier than this, and consequently they taste unlike any other beef. Their meat is tender and leaner than most beef due to their hairy insulation (as opposed to just fat). Unfortunately, they are slowgrowing and animals are few and far between. We try meat from a six-year-old steer, and it’s some of the best beef I have ever tasted. Interspersed with the Highland cattle are several black-faced sheep, a typically Scottish breed whose meat Iain calls ‘Hillside Hogget’. It’s incredible stuff: intense lamb flavour but without the funky character of mutton. Our next stop is the pier, where scallop diver Guy is unloading his catch. Saddened to find large sections of the seabed reduced

to rubble by dredging, he set up a fishing company with a difference, pledging to support sustainable fishing methods in the hope that he can contribute towards the recovery of our seas. His hand-dived scallops are fished with no damage to the seabed, no waste or bycatch, and small scallops are returned alive to continue to grow and spawn. He dives from a small boat that uses very little fuel and has little impact on the environment. The scallops are superb; we sample them raw with a little lemon juice squeezed over. It’s soon time to journey back to the airport and, of course, I’m picking up some handmade haggis en route. Scotland is famous for its haggis, though its roots lie in England – 15th-century Lancashire, to be precise – where a sheep’s pluck (the heart, liver and lungs) was minced, heavily spiced and stuffed into its stomach before boiling. This was ‘nose-to-tail’ eating long before the term existed. Much like the XO sauce I wrote about in the last issue, I’ve developed a bit of a taste for this preparation and hope to use some in a surf and turf recipe I’m planning for a dinner I’m hosting with Nathan Outlaw at The Capital Hotel. If the diners love haggis even half as much as I do, it’ll go down a storm. f


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Food and drink fans will find rich pickings in Faversham on North Kent's pretty coast, finds Hannah Summers Shepherd House, Faversham If you’re anything like me you’ll spend the duration of your stay at a boutique hotel murmuring, “I’d love curtains/a four-seater sofa/double shower like this in my shoe box-sized rented flat in London”. This feeling became particularly acute on a recent visit to Shepherd House in the Kentish town of Faversham. Shepherd House is the work of owners Clare Weston and her husband Simon, who bought and restored an old vicarage and have thrown together their interior tastes to turn it into a swanky three-bedroom B&B. I stayed in the Very, Very Large Double, which has huge windows looking out over the high street, an open-plan, blush-pink bathroom, complete with roll-top bath, and a clothes rail

Feeling inspired to plan your own trip? Visit to find more food and drink destination guides, as well as long reads and reviews from the UK and beyond

spray painted fluorescent green. If that’s not free then don’t worry – all of the rooms are beautifully designed. I’ve done enough fabric fondling in my time to know that this is one of the best-looking B&Bs in the UK. Breakfast is just as good. I’m talking sausage, streaky bacon and eggs from SW Doughty, a family butcher that just collected this year’s Taste of Kent award. In fact, where possible, everything is locally sourced – including coffee from Garage Coffee in Canterbury, and salmon from the Tankerton Smokeshed. All this is served in the jade-green dining room, which again makes you want to rush home and whip out the Farrow & Ball. From £145 a night B&B. 56 Preston Street, ME13 8PG;

FAVERSHAM ◆◆ Population: 19,316 ◆◆ Area: Kent ◆◆ Key city: Canterbury

Faversham is a pretty popular spot and it's no surprise: this picturesque market town combines history with a buzzing atmosphere and brilliant array of independent shops.





FARM & HARPER, WHITSTABLE A short drive along the coast from Faversham you’ll find Whitstable, which wins my award for most twee seaside town in Britain. Still, it’s lovely. Stop for lunch at independent restaurant Farm & Harper – it’s a relatively new addition to the high street and the owners source as much of their produce as possible from their farm. Much of chef Phil MacGregor’s flavour-packed cooking takes place in his charcoal-fired grill,

This bit of the Kent coast has some great drinking spots, and for that you can – in part at least – thank the presence in Faversham of Britain’s oldest brewer, Shepherd Neame. Start with a tour of the site where beer’s been brewed for at least three centuries, then hit up some local pubs. Inside the steamed up windows of the Corner Tap you’ll find candlelit tables and a selection of chairs, which makes it very unpublike, in a good way, while a short stagger away is Furlong’s Ale House, which feels like a really old-school micropub. In Whitstable, the Twelve Taps has a big selection of beer, not to mention gin for a bit of variety. Faversham Brewery, 17 Court Street, ME13 7AX;




It’s about a two-hour drive from London to Faversham, or you can get the train direct from St Pancras in just over an hour. For more foodie destinations head over to to

Photographs by (Farm & Harper) Jon Budd; (fish market) Nicholas Stone Schearer/Getty


like a sublime steak baguette with a side of charred gem lettuce, feta and pomegranate. You could eat breakfast, lunch and dinner here quite happily, though for a bit of variety, head over the road to Samphire, with its shabby-chic interiors and huge portions of hearty dishes like cassoulet and super-fresh local fish, plus one of the best rice puddings I’ve ever tasted. And if you’ve got money to spend, you’ll already know about The Sportsman, the iconic Michelin-starred ‘pub’ in Seasalter with its spenny-but-casual vibe. 25 High Street, Whitstable, CT5 1AP;

You’re in a harbour town, so if you’re into seafood you’re very much in the right place. Better still, the fish market – housed inside one of the ubiquitous black wooden goods sheds on the seafront – is packed with seafood hauled in by the harbour’s working fleet. Needless to say you’re going to want to pick up some Whitstable oysters, but check out seasonal fish and shellfish brought in according to the market’s sustainable seafood policy – superfresh and ready to cook, or, if you’re lucky, grilled on a barbecue on site in the summer months. South Quay, The Harbour, CT5 1AB


YOG ON: Yeo Valley has a range of tasty, healthy yoghurts, from simple Natural to creamy, protein-packed Greek Style, all of which come in mouthwatering flavours

THE RIGHT START When it comes to an easy, afforable and healthy breakfast that’s both quick to prepare and delicious to eat, Yeo Valley's organic natural yogurt is pretty much a no-brainer


E’RE ALL GUILTY of rushing out of the house in the morning without paying proper attention to what we’re using to fuel our bodies. But with more and more research proving that the right breakfast is key to setting you up for a productive day,


it’s time that changed. That said, what can you grab on the go that’s delicious, nourishing and quick to prepare? Whether you’ve got the luxury of a sit-down breakfast or are picking up something on the hoof, Yeo Valley’s natural yogurts tick all of the boxes for a healthy, tasty breakfast. Aside from its irresistibly creamy texture and moreish flavour, Yeo Valley yogurt packs a serious nutritional punch. Natural yogurt is a good source of protein that keeps you fuller for longer – helping you to resist the temptation of snacks later in the day. Dairy products have been specifically proven to be beneficial when it comes to stopping weight gain and improving satiety. What’s more, organic dairy – like Yeo Valley’s yogurt – is chock-full of omega 3 fatty acids (even more so than normal yogurt), which are imporant for your

brain. It’s also full of friendly bacteria that can improve both your digestion and your immune system. Then there’s the not-so-small matter of plenty of calcium, B vitamins and iron – all of which are more abundant in organic yoghurt than non-organic. It helps, of course, that it’s utterly delicious. Just add some fruit or nuts, or make overnight oats for a breakfast you can grab and go. One of our favourites is Yeo Valley’s Greek Style 0%, which has 7.6g protein per 100g yogurt. And because it’s Yeo Valley, you know that your yogurt is made in the UK using British milk, which means fewer food miles and the highest welfare standard for the cows making the milk – so you’re doing good for you, the cows and the environment, just by eating breakfast. ● Find out more at Yeo Valley’s yogurts are available in most major retailers




Sure, you’ve eaten great meals before, but have you ever eaten them overlooking London while suspended in the sky? Didn’t think so. It’s OK – here’s how you can…


LOT OF ELEMENTS come into play when it comes to a truly special dining experience. Mouthwatering food, certainly. Perfectly paired drinks, almost definitely. And a breathtaking setting, with warm and polished service, is the icing on the cake. For an event that has all of this in spades, look to London in the Sky, a two-week popup in July that takes dining in the capital to new heights. In a city where we’re constantly being spoiled by our unfettered access to new and exciting ingredients, the world’s best chefs, and the most out-there experiences,


this unique occasion provides a whole new perspective on eating out in London. And how does it do that? By serving delicious food developed by some of the capital’s most exciting chefs as you sit at a specially made Sky Table, suspended 100ft in the air. This year, three tables will be lifted at a time – each with a menu designed by a different well-known chef – giving even more diners access to spectacular views over the city skyline, taking in famous landmarks like St Paul’s Cathedral, the OXO Tower, the Shard and the Millennium Bridge. It’s the ultimate alfresco dining and drinking experience – and one of the best and most memorable ways

you can enjoy summer in London. Then, of course, there’s the food itself. Each table will host breakfast, lunch and dinner, as well as afternoon tea and afterdinner cocktails and canapés. With bespoke menus created by Pascal Aussignac of the Michelin-starred Club Gascon, The Dairy’s Robin Gill, and Lee Westcott of the Typing Room in Bethnal Green, the meals are bound to be some of the best you’ll eat – and they’re all finished by hand in front of you as you sit at the Sky Table. Is your appetite suitable whet? Good. Meet three of the chefs who are about to deliver a meal you’ll never forget.

PASCAL AUSSIGNAC, CLUB GASCON Let’s face it: when it comes to specialoccasion dining, classic French cooking is hard to beat – especially when it’s delivered via Pascal Aussignac of the Michelin-starred Club Gascon. Aussignac comes from Toulouse in southwest France, where eating focuses around

the likes of foie gras, duck, good wine and armagnac, an influence that’s clear in his cooking today. He made the move to London in 1998 and was awarded his first Michelin star in 2002. He’s still widely regarded as one of the capital’s premier French chefs, and was awarded Restaurant Chef of the Year at the Craft Guild of Chefs Awards in 2013. Dish to save space for: Gascony Pie – chicken ballotine, aromatic lobster and a bisque sauce. Yes. Please.



Photographs by (Robin Gill) Jonathan Thompson; (dinner in the sky) JJ De Neyer/Triptyque

If you’re a fan of a tasting menu, chances are you’ll have heard of The Dairy in Clapham, where Robin Gill has been creating a modern, produce-led take on the multi-course meal since 2013. He’s since become known for unpretentious, accessible cooking that’s still refined and undeniably delicious. Gill went on to open two more Clapham-based restaurants, Counter Culture and the new, pasta-focused Sorella, which capitalises on his time spent in some of the best kitchens in Italy. Despite being based in London, The Dairy has a farm-to-table feel, preparing just about everything in-house – churning butter, curing meats, smoking fish and growing herbs, vegetables and other produce in its rooftop garden. Yum. Dish to save space for: ‘Our farm’ courgette with sheep’s curd, basil and sunflower.

Lee Westcott’s CV is seasoned with time in some of the world’s best kitchens, from Thomas Keller’s Per Se in New York to René Redzepi’s Noma in Copenhagen and Restaurant Gordon Ramsay here in London. He went on to oversee two of wunderchef Jason Atherton’s restaurants in Hong Kong before returning to open Typing Room at the Town Hall Hotel in East London, where he cooks his own seasonal, modern food. He specialises in using mainly British produce, presenting it in a pure, honest fashion. Dish to save space for: Raw beef, turnip, mushroom and black garlic.


Located near the South Bank, the three Sky Tables will run several flights throughout the day, serving everything from breakfast all the way through to cocktails and canapés as the sun sets over London’s iconic skyline. Each table will be suspended 100ft in the air from a crane, and you’ll be safely strapped in by London in the Sky’s technicians. The tables have roofs that protect you from the elements, so there’s no need to worry about the weather spoiling your experience. f Flights run from 8.30am-10.30pm from 5-15 July. Tickets start at £50 per person;



Spring has well and truly sprung, so celebrate the season with natural wines, concept cocktails and London’s finest flame-grilled food. Oh, and book a table at one of the city’s best riverside restaurants while you’re at it… 116


YOU’RE A NATURAL Get your funk on at bars and restaurants that specialise in natural and low-intervention wines  1  The Laughing Heart 277 Hackney Road, E2 8NA

If you needed convincing that the world of East London natural wine bars is a small one, go to The Laughing Heart. Not only will you find many of the area’s chefs, bartenders and restaurateurs eating and drinking here until the early hours (it’s open until 2am, which makes it a hit with industry people wanting to cut loose after a shift), but its owner, former opera singer Charlie Mellor, knows pretty much all of the names and faces driving the natural wine movement in the capital. As well as the bottle shop and bar, there’s a dining room catering for a decent number of diners, with the food taking its cues from East Asia as well as the British coastline courtesy of highly rated chef Tom Anglesea. 020 7686 9535;



 4  40 Maltby Street

107 Lower Clapton Road, E5 0NP

40 Maltby Street, SE1 3PA

A firm favourite with natural wine drinkers in this neck of the woods, P Franco isn’t just a bar, it’s also a bottle shop so you can take away your favourite bottle of low-intervention wine if you don’t want to trek to sister shop Noble Fine Liquor in Broadway Market. The food here – Italian-inspired dishes made with seasonal British ingredients – has won it huge acclaim. So much so, in fact, that a bigger, more food-focused sister restaurant Bright is soon to open in the London Fields site once occupied by Ellory. 020 8533 4660;

This unassuming Bermondsey wine bar is actually the HQ of Gergovie Wines, a natural wine importer that brings wine from some of the best small-scale producers in Europe together under one roof. Like The Laughing Heart, it’s a hit with like-minded restaurateurs and chefs, who can often be seen nursing a glass at its bar. While it’s described as a wine bar, that probably does it a huge disservice: the food is good enough to have earned it a place among the pantheon of London’s most acclaimed restaurants. 020 7237 9247;

 3  Sapling

 5  Soif

378 Kingsland Road, E8 4AA

27 Battersea Rise, SW11 1HG

This section of Kingsland Road, where the Vietnamese restaurants that line Hoxton give way to the pubs and grocery stores of Haggerston and Dalston, is quite the hotbed of stand-out food and drink (Three Sheets, Untitled and Rotorino, we’re looking at you). At Sapling, you’ll find great natural wines alongside moreish food, courtesy of Scottish-born owner Bob Ritchie, fittingly named sommelier and general manager Dan Whine, and head chef Jon Beeharry. 020 7870 1259;

The Terroirs group is a key player in London’s natural wine scene – with Terroirs in Soho, a restaurant of the same name in East Dulwich (formerly Toasted) and Soif, a restaurant and wine bar on Battersea Rise, just a short stroll from Clapham Junction. In keeping with the theme, Soif serves up Anglo-French bistro-style food, alongside a France-heavy wine list from natural, biodynamic and low-intervention producers hand-selected by the team. 020 7223 1112;






 2  Towpath Café

 4  Rick Stein

42 De Beauvoir Crescent, N1 5SB

Tideway Yard, SW14 8SN

With rickety green benches and a blooming marvellous collection of floral crockery, Towpath Café is impossibly cute (and impossibly beautiful in the London sun). But don’t let its good looks fool you into thinking that this is any old waterfront joint: flavour expert and best-selling cookery book writer Olia Hercules was spotted tucking into Laura Jackson’s sensational seasonal cooking not all that long ago – and if her seal of approval doesn’t tell you why you need to pay this spot a visit, we don’t know what does. 020 7254 7606;

Verdant Barnes is a lovely place to hang out, and its culinary credentials are on the rise thanks to Rick Stein’s London outpost. Grab a table in the leafy conservatory and take in the Thames as you tuck into fish and chips, London-cured smoked salmon or piping-hot buttered mussels as only Rick can do them. What’s more, cocktail alchemist Mr Lyan has brought an exclusive cocktail menu to the riverside restaurant featuring the likes of salted maple nitro espresso martinis and chipotle-laced minty mezcal mixes. 020 8878 9462;

 3  Pear Tree Café

 5  Proud East

Battersea Park, SW11 4NJ

2-10 Hertford Road, N1 5ET

You wouldn’t expect a boating-pond café in the middle of a suburban park to serves the likes of harissa-spiced beef flatbreads and jackfruit burgers, let alone be run by ex-Petersham Nurseries chefs – and yet, here we are. Annabel Partridge and Will Burrett met at the iconic Richmond restaurant and set up Pear Tree Cafe in 2016. Stop in for a coffee or a bite to eat in between dog walking and duck feeding to experience all this breezy little spot has to offer. 020 7978 1655;

A classic canalside destination, Proud East couldn’t be more East London if it tried. It’s a cultural hub, packed with pretty floral blooms, games and seasonal, locally procured grub, right on Regents Canal at the Haggerston end of Kingsland Road. Pop in for a kombucha and a tempura fish burger, then stick around for a cocktail at the cinema club on the terrace or a beer-fuelled game of ping pong in the back. You probably won’t ever feel the need to leave. 020 7647 6712;






Rivers, canals, lakes – London’s full of waterside spots, and these places make the most of them


 1  Darcie & May Green Sheldon Square, W2 6DS

With its Aussie brunch offering and Pinterestworthy decor (designed by none other than pop art legend Sir Peter Blake), this converted canal boat by the Daisy Green Collective takes waterside dining up a notch. You can find the oh-so-trendy Darcie & May moored in the Grand Union Canal outside Paddington Station. Nip in for breakfast or draw up a chair for some late-night drinks. And don’t forget to take those obligatory Insta snaps so all your followers know just how hip, artsy and well fed you are. 020 7723 3301;

1  Pitt Cue 1 The Avenue, Devonshire Square, EC2M 4YP

Pitt Cue started out as a food truck on the Southbank serving up pulled pork, grew into a tiny but acclaimed restaurant in Soho, and then grew even bigger to emerge as a palatial European barbecue hotspot in the City. Nowadays it has more in common with celebrated Basque restaurant Asador Etxebarri than its American-style street-food beginnings, with food leaning on rare-breed pork and other meats cooked over carefully sourced woods on an enormous custom-made grill and smoker. 020 7324 770;


Photograph by (Towpath Cafe) Natalie Chapple; (Darcie & May Green) Leyla Kazim; (Pitt Cue) Paul Winch-Furness; (Temper) Steven Joyce;(The River Cafe) David Harrison


Is there anything better than the scent of your dinner being flamegrilled? Nope. These restaurants all fully embrace the thrill of the grill 2

BEST OF THE REST  2  Temper Soho

 4  The River Café

25 Broadwick Street, W1F 0DF

Thames Wharf, Rainville Road, W6 9HA

Neil Rankin set up his first fire-pit restaurant in 2016 and, as it turns out, year-round barbecue was just what rainy old London has always craved – now Rankin has two more Tempers under his belt, one in the City and one soon to open in Covent Garden. At his original Soho spot, the kitchen sits slap-bang in the middle of the restaurant, so you can get up-close-and-personal with the chefs as they flame-grill Cornish fish or smoke a leg of Cabrito’s goat meat. 0203 879 3834;

It’s wood-fired cooking the Italian way at this iconic riverside restaurant, founded by Ruth Rogers and the late Rose Gray. Here, the brightpink wood-fired oven is put to full use, roasting everything from tranches of turbot over potatoes with Amalfi lemon and zucchini to thin-crust pizzetti. It’s also located in the middle of the bright, open-plan restaurant, which means you can get lost gazing into the flickering flames if the conversation happens to run dry at your table. 020 7386 4200;

 3  Mangal 2

 5  Nutbourne

4 Stoke Newington Road, N16 8BH

35-37 Parkgate Road, SW11 4NP

This ocakbasi has garnered legions of followers by way of its (now sadly closed) Twitter account, a stream-of-consciousness social commentary that came courtesy of owner Ferhat Dirrik. Inside, you’ll find a huge and varied throng of customers, from the new-school Dalston hipsters to residents who’ve been coming here for years and years, all jostling for enough elbow room to tuck into the first-rate kebabs, charcoal-grilled meats, and big selection of hot and cold meze. 020 7254 7888;

A true farm-to-table British brasserie in the heart of… er, Battersea, Nutbourne takes seasonal flame-grilled cooking up a notch. You’ll find the likes of barbecued Lulworth scallops with pickled mustard seeds and tarragon oil, and succulent fallow deer with smoky charred shallots. The restaurant comes from Richard, Oliver and Gregory Gladwin – three brothers born in Nutbourne, Sussex who also own farm-to-table restaurants Rabbit and The Shed. 020 7350 0555;





1  Scarfes Bar Rosewood London, 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN

The Rosewood London’s flagship bar Scarfes is dedicated to the cartoonist Gerald Scarfe, whose work you’ll find in every patch of otherwiseblank wall in the sumptuously decorated, loungey room. The latest menu builds on last year’s, with 18 more drinks inspired by pop cultural figures from the UK, from Ali G to Andy Murray, Sir David Attenborough and the Queen, with the menu featuring a bespoke Scarfe illustration for each one. Our pick: the Office Gossips, a twisted negroni inspired by David Brent. Doing the dance. Obviously. 020 3747 8670;


CONCEPT COCKTAILS From Winnie the Pooh to the Queen, expect drinks inspired by the unexpected at these inventive bars


 2  The Blind Pig

 4  Artesian

58 Poland Street, W1F 7NR

Langham Hotel, London, 1C Portland Place, W1B 1JA

The Very Hungry Caterpillar, Winnie the Pooh, Harry Potter – if you were a child of a certain era, there’s little doubt these iconic characters will have permeated your memory. The second iteration of The Blind Pig’s cocktail menu, Long and Short: Great British Tails (Volume Two) brings a playful touch to highly quaffable interpretations of some of the UK’s best-loved children’s books, served in a speakeasy above Jason Atherton’s Social Eating House in Soho. 020 7993 3251;

What drink are you in the mood for? No, literally. That’s what’s in store at Artesian, where head bartender Rémy Savage asks you a series of questions on the feelings and flavours that have defined your life to date. The resulting menu, Artesian Moments, will go beyond simply pleasing flavours to soothe your weary soul. Too conceptual for you? You can always just stick to the Cause, Effect & Classic Cocktails menu – a list of reinterpretations of the classics. 020 7636 1000;

 3  American Bar

 5  Avenue

The Savoy Hotel, 100 Strand, WC2R 0EZ

7-9 St James’s Street, SW1A 1EE

If you don’t know Terry O’Neill by name, you’ll recognise his work – the legendary photographer has snapped many of the most important people in pop culture over his long career, from The Beatles to Brigitte Bardot, Amy Winehouse and Daniel Craig. With his photos adorning the walls of the iconic American Bar, head bartender Erik Lorincz’s new (and final) menu brings them to life, with each drink inspired by a famous moment in time captured by O’Neill’s lens. 020 7836 4343;

Avenue’s new cocktail menu is about as conceptual as it gets, coinciding with the relaunched Latin American/Asian food offering. Myths & Legends will lean heavily on Japanese whisky, pisco, sake, chilli and citrus, with the drinks designed to celebrate mystical animals from Asia and the five elements of Maya and Aztec tradition. Because if you’re not drinking a cocktail made in the name of the Aztec sun god Tonatiuh, what are you even drinking? 020 7321 2111;





Photographs by (Scarfes) Addie Chinn; (Artesian) Eddie Judd Photography; (Avenue) Thomas Alexander Photography


Genuine Service Impeccable Ingredients

Roux at The Landau has relaunched. A chic central counter brings our stunning ingredients and talented team centre-stage. Everything from informal snacks to a full tasting menu is inspired by classic French techniques and served with a stunning choice of over five hundred wines – all available by the glass.

1c Portland Place, Regent Street, London, W1B 1JA T 44 (0) 20 7636 1000

Add a splash of YELLOW to your day

Low in saturated fat & rich in Omega 3. Fantastic for all cooking and baking. Lovingly produced to LEAF Marque standards on our family farm. For recipe inspiration, visit:



JUST THE TONIC The London Essence Summer Terrace at St. Ermin’s Hotel takes summer drinks in London up a notch, and one lucky reader could be about to experience it themselves...


HE BEST SUMMER memories are often crafted in the most sensational places. Places that buzz with positive energy, places that help you unwind, and places that set the scene for long evenings of laughter, conversation and good times. The stylishly revamped London Essence Summer Terrace at St. Ermin’s in Westminster is one of those places. Inspired by drinks partner The London Essence Company, this is a place where guests are invited to relax under elegant parasols and escape the hustle and bustle of London in the idyll of the hotel’s tree-lined courtyard. It’s bliss. The new bar and drinks menu is inspired by the hotel’s rooftop garden, and uses fresh ingredients, herb garnishes and honey from the St. Ermin’s Bee Colony, giving each serve an interesting hyper-local kick. Add to this the light, carefully crafted and low-

calorie mixers supplied by the London Essence Company, and you’re onto a winner. From Classic London Tonic to flavours like Grapefruit and Rosemary, Bitter Orange and Elderflower and Delicate Ginger Ale, you’ve got the perfect partner for any spirit. What’s more, with a summer that’s full of all kinds of events, from beekeeping courses with resident bee expert Camilla Goddard to floristry sessions with Toby Roberts, there are plenty of reasons to swing by come summertime... ● St Ermin’s Hotel, 2 Caxton Street, SW1H 0QW. For more information call 0207 2277 888 or visit sterminshotel.;

follow on social at @londonessenceco

and @sterminshotel





To celebrate summertime at the London Essence Terrace, we've teamed up with St Ermin’s Hotel to offer one lucky reader and a friend the chance to win a one-night stay in a deluxe room, plus buffet breakfast and £100 to spend on food and drinks on the Terrace (or inside if it's raining). Just head over to to enter.






TRÈS, TRÈS BONNE You might recognise that distinctive label and lid for delicious jams – now try the new range of breakfast compotes from quintessential French brand Bonne Maman


HETHER IT BE a bowl of rich, creamy Greek-style yoghurt, crunchy granola or even a simple bowl of muesli – when sweet, tangy, juicy fruit is missing from a morning meal, it’s obvious. But buying, storing and keeping fresh fruit on hand isn’t always doable. That’s where Bonne Maman comes in: France’s best-loved conserve brand has just created a range of three delicious compotes, which are sure to liven up your breakfast with just one spoonful. The three flavours – cherry, apricot and rhubarb – each add something different to your breakfast. Much lighter and juicer than a jam or marmalade, the new compotes are

made from the finest, ripe whole fruit to a traditional French recipe, so every jar is bursting with whole dark cherries, luscious apricot pieces or chunks of subtly tart yet sweet rhubarb. So now you can have fresh summer fruits for breakfast all year round. After some inspiration? Go to to see a recipe for these overnight breakfast oats and see how simple it is to liven up your morning routine. ●

TRY THEM YOURSELF Bonne Maman’s compotes are £2.99 RRP for a 385g jar. Look for the green gingham lids on the jams and spreads aisle. For more info, usage and recipe inspiration, go to or follow on Facebook at






One To Wine is a newborn company sourcing wines directly from sustainable and independent producers to guarantee you the best value. We use the same expertise to create innovative events, specially designed for your needs. | 18 Bletchley Court N17NX, London | +44 (0) 7597 794023 | +33 (0) 6 86 277 253



THE FINER THINGS Get an authentic taste of the vibrant dishes of the Middle East at new restaurant Paramount Lebanese Kitchen, which is offering one reader a VIP meal for two


HE IRRESISTIBLY MOREISH flavours of the Middle East are legendary, from golden falafel served with tahini sauce and juicy, spit-roasted chicken shawarma to silky-smooth hummus and creamy labneh yoghurt. To experience them at their finest, head to one of the three new Paramount Lebanese Kitchen restaurants in Gloucester Road, Paddington or Brixton, the latest openings and first UK sites from international group Paramount Fine Foods. The team is bringing authentic Lebanese cooking to London, creating dishes full of flavour and serving them the way they are at home. Their food is ideal for both quick lunches and full-on feasts, mixing a taste of the exotic with familiar comforts. And, what’s more, Middle Eastern food is well known for being healthy without skimping on flavour, which, as

far as we’re concerned, is a win. But Paramount Lebanese Kitchen is bringing more than just the taste of the Middle East to London: the restaurants will be using bright and stylish surroundings to create a friendly atmosphere that’s ideal for entertaining friends, family and colleagues. It’s the place to savour the authentic experience of Middle Eastern dishes without leaving London. If you fancy trying one of these delicious meals for yourself, you’re in luck – Paramount Fine Foods is offering one lucky reader the chance to win a VIP meal for two at its Gloucester Road restaurant. ● Follow Paramount on Twitter @ParamountLK, Instagram at @paramount_lk and Facebook at @Paramount Lebanese KitchenUK



HOW TO WIN Has all that talk of tasty food whet your appetite? Good. Now head to our website to answer one simple question and you could be in with a chance of winning a VIP meal for two at Paramount Lebanese Kitchen’s new Gloucester Road restaurant. For full prize details and T&Cs, make your way over to



U R O S Y U P M U M P ER U Greet the sun with the launch of our delicious new organic, vegan + gluten-free summer soups.

Bursting with the finest organic ingredients to bring you a true taste of summer, our fresh + vibrant recipes are packed with yummy veg. Whether you’re dining al-fresco or at your desk, grab a spoon + dive into the perfect blend of healthy veggies, herbs + spices. Take the pledge to eat more veg at


BUMBLEZEST HEALTH SHOTS “Positively shrieks better health” Telegraph Magazine

and leading independents

Available from ● To advertise in this section please call 020 7819 9999




Enjoy a glass or two of delicious wine whilst people-watching in trendy Bermondsey. Pizarro Restaurant - the second restaurant of popular Spanish chef José Pizarro - offers Spanish only wine, cava, and sherry. The restaurant offers delicious tapas to nibble on as well as larger meals to satisfy the hungry. Find Pizarro Restaurant at 194 Bermondsey Street, SE1 3TQ. W:

Scouters and importers of the finest traditional, natural, artisanal Italian winemakers. 360 labels, 101% made in Italy. All available in our Osteria, the cosiest in UK.

W: @passionevino 85 Leonard Street EC2A 4QS, London



Pied à Terre is one of London’s longest standing Michelin star restaurants. Based in the heart of Fitzrovia they offer exceptional gourmet food prepared with heart and passion. Their first floor bar Petite Chambre is the perfect place for a glass of wine away from the hustle and bustle of London. W: @piedaterrerestaurant @PiedaTerreUK

We are a husband and wife team, and a bunch of amazing people. Driven by passion and emotions, we run a natural wine bar & seasonal restaurant serving sharing plates. There's also a basement wine bar downstairs! We opened our sister restaurant in February last year, similar concept, but bigger open space. W: @naughtypiglets



Situated under a railway arch, just off Blackfriars Road, the Blackfriars Wine Bar is ideal for a drink after work, lunch, or for your office party. Rustic and authentic the Blackfriars Wine Bar offers a wide selection of excellent wines, good wholesome food, and the expertise of a friendly staff. W: @blackfriarswinebar @blackfriarswin1

Antidote is a wine bar and restaurant located just off Carnaby Street offering a large selection of organic and biodynamic wines from artisan growers only. You will come across some amazing and unique wines with a large selection by the glass. The food is also taken very seriously with Chef Danial Whalan offering a contemporary and seasonal menu which changes on a weekly basis. W:



Located in the heart of London, Boyds Grill & Wine Bar proudly boasts a list of over 100 fantastic wines. The Coravin wine-by-theglass machine means you can sample a selection of fine wines, without investing in a whole bottle. Ask about the Clos Maucaillou, it’s exclusive to Boyds. W: @boydsgwb

May Fair Kitchen showcases the best of Spanish & Italian small plates while also embracing contemporary Peruvian & Mexican dishes from sister restaurants Monmouth Kitchen & Leicester Square Kitchen. Complemented with the finest wines & cocktails, experience the art of shared dining in the heart of Mayfair. W: @mayfairkitchen



Created 5 years ago by a true wine lover, Pall Mall Fine Wine, sister shop of L’Escale in St. Katharine Docks, is a quirky little place situated in the historic Royal Opera Arcade just a grape’s throw away from Trafalgar Square in the heart of London. Enjoy a huge selection of wines and amazing cheese platters in a traditional French style Cave atmosphere! Wine and cheese, yes please! W:

Unique wine bar and restaurant in Shoreditch. A place with welcoming, friendly service at its heart. B’acino boasts a fantastic selection of food and a bespoke wine list with something to suit even the most eccentric wine lovers pallet.

W: @bacinowinebar


FULLY LOADED: Soya beans are a vital and cheap source of protein for vegetarians and vegans. 100g of soya beans willl yield 13g of protein, which means they are the only legume to contain just as many essential nutrients as meat, fish, dairy or eggs.


IT’S ALL IN THE NAME: Their name comes from the Japanese shōyu. And despite the different spellings, ‘soy’ and ‘soya’ refers to the same thing.

KARMA CHAMELEON: Dried beans are quite bland, but you can extract the protein content by boiling and pressing mature beans to form tofu. Younger beans, on the other hand, are often served as edamame.

Photograph by Li Jingwang/Getty images

You’ve likely (however rightly or wrongly) drowned some sushi in a fermented form of it or enountered soya milk at your local coffee shop, but there’s a world of soy you may never have encountered

Sniff, slurp, repeat Find even more reasons to love wine at our award-winning Wine School, held in our London cellars. From one-day introductions to professional qualifications, there’s no better way to discover the world of wine.

320 years in the making We’ve been keeping shop in St James’s since 1698. Helping customers find the perfect bottle for more than three centuries, we’ve learned a thing or two. Whether you are looking for a special gift or something for Tuesday night supper, you’ll find it at Berry Bros. & Rudd. Visit our award-winning shop at 63 Pall Mall.

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Foodism - 26 - London, food and drink  

Foodism Magazine - Issue 26 - The festival issue

Foodism - 26 - London, food and drink  

Foodism Magazine - Issue 26 - The festival issue