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n early 2016 – before the EU referendum, before Trump, before even the epoch-defining second series of the second coming of Love Island – we started planning foodism’s first sustainability special issue. We didn’t know what we were going to put in it, just that we wanted to acknowledge the increased emphasis those in London’s food and drink scene were putting on doing things in a more sustainable way. As it turned out, the stories we covered in that issue and the 2017 follow up (you can read them all at foodism.co.uk) are some of the most interesting, exciting and inspiring we’ve ever featured in foodism. Not only that, but they prove pretty conclusively that creating some of the best food and drink in the world can go hand-in-hand with working towards a better, eminently more sensible food system. Basically, you can have your cake and eat it (relatively) guiltlessly. Recently, though, we’ve gone a step further, by launching the Foodism 100: a list of one hundred London venues and initiatives, across ten categories, that represent the cream of the crop in London’s sustainable and ethical food and drink scene. From cafés helping former prisoners get back into work to chefs finding innovative ways to work with food waste, those on the list highlight the myriad different ways people are using food and drink to effect positive change. You can see the full list on page 38, and we’ll be showcasing some of them throughout the year in the magazine and online. We’re confident they’ll be some of the most uplifting and engaging stories you’ll read all year. f

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— PART 1 —

GRAZE “WE DID A RESTAURANT CRAWL: TACOS AT BREDDOS, PASTA AT LUCA, RIBS AT SMOKESTAK, AND DESSERT AND COFFEE AT LYLE’S” GARY LINEKER DISCUSSES HIS LOVE OF EATING OUT AND WHERE HE GOES FOR A GREAT MEAL 032

012 THE FOODIST | 014 LONDON LARDER | 016 LOCAL HEROES | 018 WEAPONS OF CHOICE 023 RECIPES | 030 COLUMNS | 032 GARY LINEKER | 036 THE RADAR


TOP THREE

Carrying on Dry January? Designated driver? Either way, pep up your booze-free drinks cabinet with these

1. SUR E NDRAN & B OW NE S L AB DAN U M

THE FOODIST

Why should the wait for a trim be mundane? Lift your spirits in the queue at Blade in Soho, writes Mike Gibson

B

Y AND LARGE, you don’t expect to find a selection of top-shelf spirits when getting your hair cut. A glass of scotch, maybe, at one of London’s higher-end barbers, but a choice of a few different limited editions of Campbeltown whiskies? Some ultra-rare bottlings from Kentucky bourbon High West that I’m informed you’d be unlikely to find elsewhere in the UK? A negroni made with Antica Formula? A boilermaker made up of a bottle of barrel-aged Harviestoun pale ale served alongside a shot of Rittenhouse Rye? That’s a new one for me. Sitting in Blade Hairclub in Soho at the tail-end of last year, whiling away the time until my chair’s ready, I’m on my way to being converted. While the concept of ‘hairclubbing’ – that is, why shouldn’t your barber also be a bar, or vice versa? – might seem like an apt stick with which to beat the more pretentious end of London’s drinking scene, the actual experience is anything but. Within moments of walking past the threepiece jazz band by the door – who also play

12

at Broadway Market’s acclaimed bar Kansas Smitty’s, by the way – I’m whisked downstairs and find myself chatting to D.T. Stroo, a Croatian-born whiskey fiend responsible for the drinks side of the business, who’s lining up whiskeys for me to try. That’s when it becomes apparent that a zany start-up idea this is not: the intention for Stroo and his wife and co-founder Julia Olofsson (the hair) was to bring Stroo’s love of bars into Olofsson’s already successful salon, take a short-cut around some difficult Soho licensing laws, and in the process make waiting for a haircut less about thumbing through month-old magazines and more about having a drink and a chat. Which I did – and then I got a great haircut. ‘Hairclubbing’, as Blade terms it is, of course, not for everyone. A lot of people will still want a 20-minute haircut with as few frills as possible. But if you’ve got a thirst for weird and wonderful drinks next time you’re due a haircut, there’s nowhere else like it. f bladehairclub.co.uk

Foraged ambergris? Check. Zambian wild honey? All present and correct. Alcohol? Au contraire – this concoction from gin distiller Surendran & Bownes is zero-proof. Bringing together lots of familiar notes of London Dry (juniper, coriander, cardamom, cloves) as well as the labdanum resin it’s named after, it’s just like a gin – but minus the hangover. 50cl, £39; boroughwines.co.uk

2. T HE DU C HE SS VIR G IN G IN & TO N I C We’ve been known to drink a bottle of tonic water on its own, but it’s not exactly common. But what of the gin fiends who find themselves unable to partake? Enter this reverse-engineered ginless G&T – the tonic is infused with juniper distillate, citrus peel, star anise and all that good stuff, to create something that tastes a little like you know what. 4x275ml, £6.95; 31dover.com

3. NONSUC H SHRU B S Know what’s going to be huge this year? Shrubs. Don’t know what they are? Well, let us explain. Shrubs, sometimes called ‘drinking vinegars’, are fruit cordials, blended with apple cider vinegar, to create something refreshing, with an almost boozy hit (but no alcohol). Three flavours of Nonsuch’s new range are available – cherry and mint, peach and basil, and blackcurrant and juniper. 250ml, £3.50; boroughwines.co.uk


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TH AT’S WHAT THEY SAID Snippets from our writers and personalities across the industry, on foodism.co.uk

THE LONDON LARDER

This month: Wilderbee honey

IF YOU’RE JUST DIPPING A TOE INTO VEGAN EATING, TRY THE TACOS AT CLUB MEXICANA, MADE WITH TO-FISH (THAT’S TOFU WRAPPED IN SEAWEED)

LYDIA WINTER on where to find the best vegan dining in the capital

Jerk reigns supreme at Rudie’s – snowwhite bone-in chicken encased in hot, sweet, charred skin, with a slick of piquant dipping sauce, all cooked in a drum in the kitchen

Order anything that’s seen the inside of the Josper grill and you’re onto a winner. The Var salmon – coalroasted, soaring with chilli heat and backed up with white miso and earthy mushrooms – might be the best thing we’ve eaten this year

MIKE GIBSON finds Jamaican cooking done right at Rudie’s in Dalston

JORDAN KELLY-LINDEN, finds seafood heaven at Wright Brothers Battersea

ITALIAN WOOD-FIRED PIZZA PEPPERED WITH SEASONAL BRITISH INGREDIENTS MADE IN THE BACK OF A CONVERTED LAND ROVER DEFENDER? NO, WE’RE NOT MAKING THIS UP. IT’S GOOD, TOO. BORN & RAISED is at National Pizza Day

I’M FROM THE COUNTRYSIDE IN PORTUGAL AND IN MY HOUSE THERE WAS ALWAYS A BIG TABLE AND GREAT FOOD. BUT, YOU KNOW, I DON’T BELIEVE IN THOSE STORIES WHEN PEOPLE TALK ABOUT THE ONE DEFINING DISH FROM THEIR CHILDHOOD. I THINK THEY’RE ALL MADE UP. I DON’T REMEMBER MY FAVOURITE DISH FROM WHEN I WAS TWELVE LEANDRO CARREIRA of Portuguese-inspired Londrino. Probably not a fan of Proust, then

14

What’s the product? ‘The world’s most versatile hot sauce’ or as we know it, our ideal winter porridge topper: chilli-infused honey.

Who makes it? Owner of ethical nose-to-tail street food truck The Roadery Dan Shearman and his foraging fiancé, Helen Martin (his words, not ours). Wilderbee’s raw, unprocessed honey is sourced from independent urban beekeepers from across London while the chillis come from an organic chilli grower in Berkshire. The story goes that they used to sell bottles to a handful of The Roadery’s most loyal customers, but as interest piqued they decided to launch it as a standalone product in 2017.

What does it taste like? It starts off sweet, obviously. But as the fruitiness subsides, in comes the chilli heat, which builds up a nice burn at the back of your mouth before subsiding into a lingering, peppery warmth. Word on the street is that it tastes as good on mozarella sticks as it does on a bacon sarnie or even ice cream... Well, what can we say? Dan did tell us it was versatile.

Where can I get it? Find your nearest stockist or snap up a bottle at wilderkitchenlondon.com, or head over to Camden Market and hunt down The Roadery’s food tuck to try it out for yourself. f


LOCAL HEROES C H I NESE N EW YE A R

1

XU

From February

We can’t wait to tuck into the new menu from Taiwanese restaurant Xu. In a tip of the cap to Chinese New Year, it’ll usher in a lunch menu that features dumplings, from unconventional taro and caviar to cheung fun noodle rolls, as well as suckling pig gua bao and more. xulondon.com

2

HAKKASAN

Until 4 March

What do you do if you’re a Michelin-starred, Cantoneseinspired restaurant on Chinese New Year? Put on a big collaborative menu with some interactive entertainment, naturally. That’s what Hakkasan’s two London locations will be doing, alongside an £88 tasting menu made up of ingredients said to bring luck and prosperity for the coming year. We’ll eat to that. hakkasan.com

3

BUBBLEDOGS

20 February

Bubbledogs is ditching its famed hot dogs in favour of home-style Chinese cooking this February. The one-night pop-up, named Chappett’s Café, will be see husband-and-wife team Sandia Chang and James Knappett cooking side-by-side, with the obligatory selection of grower champagne still very much in action. bubbledogs.co.uk/chappetts-cafe

THE ESCAPIST Jonathan Recanati, founder of Farmer J, on swapping finance for food boxes

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16

in mind, in 2014 I decided to leave the bank and began to grow Farmer J. It’s important that we continue to make sure all our food is sourced from high welfare, predominantly British farms. Unlike many other food spots, when you come into Farmer J, you will not be faced with a wall of products just sitting, being kept warm under the heated lights. We prioritize freshness and 90% of our food is made on-site. I love the idea that I’m feeding the City with fresh and flavoursome food. It’s amazing to see the queues around Leadenhall Street as people line up for their field trays. We recently found out that Farmer J is the Deliveroo founder’s go-to lunch. Will Shu goes for the grilled harissa chicken and a side of grilled

broccoli dressed with tahini and tamari. We think it’s a forking good choice, too. Browse the range at farmerj.com

Photograph (Hakkasan) by Adrien Photograph byDaste ###

EING BORN IN Israel, I was always spoiled by unique, diverse and fresh produce. From Israel, I moved to Lausanne to study hospitality management and received an education in food, service and overpriced restaurants. It was then when I learnt how lucky I was to come from a country where value for money meant something when it came to eating out. When I moved to London I spent three years in finance at Deutsche Bank. I was at my desk eating three bland meals a day wondering how the capital city didn’t have a spot for people to grab a quick meal – crucially, I mean a meal that is healthy without preaching, delicious but not expensive, and never, ever boring. With that


WEAPONS OF CHOICE Soup, bread and coffee – get the basics right with the help of these clever kitchen gadgets PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARRISON

18


SOUP STAR TEFAL EASY SOUP MAKER, £74.99 Continuing January’s fiendish soup and smoothie making? Make life easier with this bit of kit – just add chopped ingredients and you’re all set. lakeland.co.uk

Photograph by ###

19


DAILY B RE A D CUISINART BREAD MAKER, £150 If you’re making a foray into homemade bread and want something easier than sourdough, this machine from Cuisinart is a great place to start. selfridges.com

20


STE A M PUNK MAGIMIX NESPRESSO ESSENZA MINI, £89.99 Whatever your coffee tipple, make espresso easy with this compact coffee maker from Magimix, which works with Nespresso-compatible capsules. lakeland.co.uk

21


Recipes

FINDING TRUE NORTH

ANNA DEL CONTE’S NEW BOOK CELEBRATES THE TRADITIONAL DISHES OF ITALY’S BOUNTIFUL NORTHERN REGIONS. WE’VE GOT FOUR CLASSIC RECIPES FOR YOU

PHOTOGRAPHS BY LAURA EDWARDS

I

F YOU’VE EVER eaten your way around Italy, you’ll know that the changing food identity from place to place is a matter of no small importance. Recipes are handed down from generation to generation; one town’s pasta can differ in small but significant ways to the town 20 minutes down the road – and can be fertile ground for debate, too. That’s why Classic Food of Northern Italy, a new book by food writer Anna Del Conte, is such a good read – as well as presenting authentic recipes from all around the northern regions of the boot, it sheds light on

the history and tradition of each one. From ossobuchi made with wine (and definitely not with tomatoes), to a risotto that’s so important it’s considered “one of the pillars of Milanese cooking”, these are recipes that tell their own story of the places they hail from – some that are bona fide classics from Lombardy, Liguria, Veneto and beyond, and some of which were handed down to the born-and-bred Milanese Del Conte from family and friends. There are few better crash courses in the cooking that defines an area rich in food tradition. Buon appetito. f

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F O O DISM RE CIPE S, IN ASSOC IAT ION W IT H W HOL E F OODS M AR K ET

Photograph by ###

Whole Foods Market is passionate about great-tasting food and the pleasure of sharing it with others. Each of its seven London stores is a one-stop shop, stocked to the brim with delicious, natural and organic foods. From full-service scratch bakeries, artisan cheese and charcuterie, to high-welfare butchers and sustainable

fishmonger counters, Whole Foods Market is on a mission to help people eat real food. So rest assured, when you visit your local store, everything you put in your basket contains no artificial preservatives, colours, flavours, sweeteners or hydrogenated fats – just fresh, wholesome foods that are safe to eat. Find out more at wholefoodsmarket.co.uk

23


BITE-SIZED

FOODISM.CO.UK/ NEWSLETTER

Anna Del Conte’s

RIBOLLITA

Sitting somewhere between a soup and a stew, this famous Tuscan dish is the ultimate comfort food, perfect for warming up chilly evenings

s of Several hour g okin co ow sl superdish that’s a in s lt su re r full of flavou

ING R E DIE NTS ◆◆ 225g dried cannellini beans ◆◆ 100ml extra virgin olive oil ◆◆ 1 Spanish onion, sliced ◆◆ 1 or 2 dried chillies,

de-seeded and chopped

◆◆ 2 tomatoes, peeled, de-

seeded and coarsely chopped

◆◆ 1 tbsp concentrated tomato

purée

L

TIME

Serves ◆◆ 6-8

Preparation ◆◆ 130 mins

Cooking

◆◆ 180 mins

24

A RIBOLLITA CONTAINS two of the most characteristic ingredients of Tuscan cooking: cannellini beans and cavolo nero,” says Anna del Conte of this classic dish, a warming, hearty stew that makes use of seasonal autumnal and winter vegetables. It’s not quick, by any means, but it’s a great dish to make at the weekend and reheat the next day.

Method

1 Soak the beans overnight in cold water. The next day, drain and rinse them and put them in a heavy pot with all of the ingredients for cooking the beans. Cover with cold water by about 5cm and bring slowly to the boil. 2 Add 2 teaspoons of salt, cover the pan and cook very gently until the beans are well done (about 1.5-2 hours). Lift all the beans out of the liquid and purée three-quarters of them into a bowl, ideally using a food mill with the large-hole disc fitted. Leave the remaining beans whole and transfer the cooking liquid to another bowl.

◆◆ 3 medium potatoes, cut into

3 Put three-quarters of the oil, the onion and the chillies in the pot in which you cooked the beans. Sprinkle with a pinch of salt and sauté for 10 minutes or so. Add the tomatoes and the tomato paste, cook for 2-3 minutes and then mix in the bean purée. Let it take up the flavour for a couple of minutes while you stir it around, and then add all the other vegetables, the garlic and the thyme. 4 Measure the bean liquid and add enough water to make it up to about 1.5 litres. Add to the pot and bring to the boil. Cook over the lowest heat for about 2 hours. Check seasoning and leave until the next day. 5 The next day, mix in the whole beans. Heat the oven to 160°C. Slice very finely enough onion to make a thin layer over the surface of the soup. Put the pot in the oven and cook until the onion is tender (about 1 hour). 6 Rub the bread with garlic cloves, then toast under the grill. Put the bread into individual soup bowls and ladle the soup over it. Dribble the remaining oil over each bowl. f

small cubes

◆◆ 2 medium carrots, cut into

small cubes

◆◆ 1 small leek (both white and

green part), cut into small pieces ◆◆ 3 celery stalks, cut into small pieces ◆◆ 6 leaves of cavolo nero, thick stalk removed and thinly cut ◆◆ 2 garlic cloves, sliced ◆◆ 3 or 4 fresh thyme sprigs ◆◆ Salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the beans ◆◆ 1 medium onion, cut into

quarters

◆◆ 1 small celery stalk ◆◆ Fresh sage, rosemary and

parsley sprigs

◆◆ 3 garlic cloves ◆◆ Salt

For the reheating ◆◆ 1 or 2 Spanish onions ◆◆ 6-8 slices of brown

sourdough bread

◆◆ 2 garlic cloves, cut in half


Anna Del Conte’s

RISOTTO ALLA MILANESE The golden colour of this iconic dish makes it a pleasure to look at, but the real joy comes from the rich flavour, heady with the scent of saffron

W

HEN ANNA DEL Conte talks about risotto milanese, it’s in no uncertain terms, referring to it as both “this favourite dish of mine” and “one of the pillars of Milanese cooking”. “Like all over-popular dishes, risotto alla milanese (known in its native city as risotto giallo, or yellow risotto) has been the subject of endless variations,” she says. “This is my recipe, which has been in use in my family for generations, or at least for as long as my father (who would now be 113) could remember. He insisted that risotto giallo was made like this. “If you can, use carnaroli rice. Otherwise use a good quality arborio. The better the rice, the longer it takes to cook. In Italy we cook carnaroli for

18 minutes from the time that you begin to add the stock. Arborio will take 1 or 2 minutes less.”

Method

1 Bring the stock to simmering point and keep it at a very low simmer. 2 Put the shallot, beef marrow (or substitute) and 60g of the butter in a saucepan and sauté until the shallot is soft and translucent. 3 Add the rice into the pan and stir until well coated with fat. Pour in the wine, boil for 2 minutes, stirring constantly, and then pour in 200ml of the simmering stock. 4 Cook until nearly all the stock has been absorbed and then add another 150ml of stock. The risotto should cook at a steady lively simmer.

Continue adding the stock in small quantities like this, waiting for one to be nearly all absorbed before adding in the next. 5 About half-way through the cooking add the saffron dissolved in a little hot stock. When the rice is ready – it should be soft and creamy, not mushy or runny – taste and then adjust the seasoning. 6 Draw off the heat and add in the rest of the butter and 3 tbsp of the grated parmesan. 7 Leave to rest for a minute or two and then give the risotto a good stir. This is what we call the mantecatura, the final touch, to make the risotto even creamier. 8 Serve immediately, with the rest of the cheese handed separately. f

TIME

Serves ◆◆ 4

Preparation ◆◆ 5 mins

Cooking

◆◆ 25 mins

I NGREDI EN TS ◆◆ 1.2 litres home-made meat

stock

◆◆ 1 shallot (or ½ small onion),

very finely chopped

◆◆ 60g beef marrow, unsmoked

pancetta or fatty prosciutto, very finely chopped ◆◆ 75g butter ◆◆ 350g Italian risotto rice, preferably carnaroli ◆◆ 120ml red wine ◆◆ ⅓ tsp powdered saffron or 1 tsp saffron threads ◆◆ Salt and freshly ground black pepper ◆◆ 60g freshly grated parmesan

25


Anna Del Conte’s

MILANESE OSSOBUCO If you haven’t cooked veal before, this classic dish is a great place to start – there’s just a handful of ingredients, meaning the flavour of the meat really shines through

TIME

Serves

◆◆ 4

Preparation

◆◆ 5 mins

Cooking

◆◆ 150 mins

A

NOTHER CLASSIC DISH, this Milanese braised veal shin, made with wine and without tomatoes, is a perfect partner to the risotto from the previous page.

Method

1 Tie the ossobuchi around and across with string, as you would do with a parcel. 2 Choose a heavy sauté pan, with a tight-fitting lid large enough to hold the ossobuchi in a single layer. Heat the oil, and meanwhile lightly coat the ossobuchi with some flour in which you have mixed a teaspoon of salt. Brown the ossobuchi on both sides and then remove to a side dish. 3 Add 30g of the butter to the sauté pan together with the onion and the celery. Sprinkle with a little salt, which will help the onion to release its liquid so that it gets soft without browning. When the vegetables are soft – after about 10 minutes – return the meat to the pan along with the juice that will have accumulated. 4 Heat the wine and pour over the meat. Turn the heat up and boil to reduce by half, while scraping off the sediment on the bottom of the

26

GET THE BOOK

Classic Food of Northern Italy by Anna Del Conte, published by Pavilion Books


pan with a metal spoon. 5 Heat the stock in the pan you used to heat the wine and pour about half over the ossobuchi. Turn the heat down to very low and cover the pan. Cook for 1.5 to 2 hours, until the meat has begun to come away from the bone. Carefully turn the ossobuchi over every 20 minutes or so, taking care not to damage the marrow in the bone. If necessary, add more stock during the cooking, but very gradually – not more than 3 or 4 tbsp at a time. If, by the time the meat is cooked, the sauce is too thin, remove the meat from the pan and reduce the liquid by

boiling it briskly. 6 Transfer the ossobuchi to a heated dish and remove the string. Keep warm in an oven. 7 Cut the remaining butter into 3 or 4 pieces and add gradually to the sauce. 8 As soon as the butter has melted, remove from the heat, as the sauce should not boil. This addition of the butter will give the sauce a glossy shine and a delicate taste. 9 Mix the ingredients for the gremolata together, stir into the sauce and leave for a minute or two. After that, just spoon the sauce over the ossobuchi and serve immediately. f

ING R E DIE NTS ◆◆ 4 ossobuchi, about 250g each ◆◆ 2 tbsp olive oil

◆◆ Flour for dusting ◆◆ Salt and freshly ground black

pepper ◆◆ 40g butter

◆◆ 1 small onion, finely chopped

◆◆ ½ celery stalk, finely chopped ◆◆ 150ml dry white wine ◆◆ 300ml meat stock

For the gremolata ◆◆ 1 tsp grated rind from an

unwaxed lemon

◆◆ ½ garlic clove, very finely

chopped

◆◆ 2 tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf

parsley

cooking Two hours of meat e th ns mea raight st should fall off the bone Photograph by ###

27


Anna Del Conte’s

SCIUMETTE

This delicate dessert requires a little bit of skill and patience, but the results are more than worth it, and it’s light enough to follow a meal made up of hearty dishes

BITE-SIZED

FOODISM.CO.UK/ NEWSLETTER

d is topped Silky custar light-aswith fluffy, eringues m d he ac air po pud et in this pr ty

TIME

Serves ◆◆ 6-8

Cooking

◆◆ 5 mins

Preparation ◆◆ 20 mins

S

CIUMETTE MEANS LITTLE sponges in Genoese dialect, and this is what they look like,” says del Conte of these Genovese poached meringues. “Delicate white blobs floating in a sea of yellow custard, speckled with the bright green of pistachio and veiled with the dusky brown of ground cinnamon.” Sweet but not too rich, and gently flavoured with lemon and cinnamon, they make a perfect closer for a dinner party.

Method

1 Bring the milk very slowly to a boil in a large sauté pan. Add the lemon

28

rind and 2 tablespoons of the sugar and stir gently. Keep an eye on the milk. 2 Meanwhile, whisk the egg whites until they form soft peaks. Add the lemon juice, half of the sugar and the cinnamon. Whisk until the mixture becomes very firm. 3 When the milk starts to boil, adjust the heat so that the milk is just simmering. 4 Slide a few heaped dessertspoons of the meringue gently into the milk – only a few at a time, as the meringues swell and each must be kept separate. 5 Poach for about 1.5 minutes on each side, flipping them over very

carefully with two forks. 6 Remove the sciumette from the milk and transfer them to a large tray lined with kitchen towels. Repeat until you have used up all the whisked egg white. Make sure you re-whisk the whites every time before you poach another batch of sciumette. 7 Make sure that the milk never comes to a proper boil. 8 Strain the milk and, if necessary, add extra milk to come up to 700ml. Beat the egg yolks in a heavy-based saucepan. Add the remaining sugar and beat thoroughly until pale and forming ribbons. 9 Add the milk gradually to the yolks while beating constantly with a wooden spoon. Cook until the custard thickens, but do not let it boil or it will curdle. If that should happen, pour the contents of the pan into the food processor and whizz for 30 seconds until the custard is smooth. Put the pan in a bowl of cold water to cool. Stir occasionally. 10 Pour the cooled custard into a large deep dish or bowls and carefully arrange the sciumette on top. Scatter the pistachios over and dust lightly with cinnamon. f

ING R E DIE NTS ◆◆ 1.2 litres whole milk

◆◆ Pared rind of 1 unwaxed

lemon

◆◆ 250g caster sugar

◆◆ Whites of 4 large eggs ◆◆ 1 tsp lemon juice

◆◆ 2 pinches ground cinnamon,

plus 1 tsp ground cinnamon to finish ◆◆ Yolks of 5 large eggs ◆◆ 2 tbsp pistachio nuts, blanched, peeled and chopped


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FOODISM.CO.UK

Richard H Turner

BEAUT BEIRUT The globetrotting chef and author heads to Lebanon, where he finds silky hummus, theatrical cooking, and a celeb diner with her own private militia

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S THE EPICENRE of Middle Eastern cuisine, Lebanon is the country that all other Arabic nations look to, much as we once looked to France. Its capital, Beirut, is smart and cosmopolitan, packed with high-end restaurants and a wealthy, fashion-conscious elite. But beneath this chic exterior Beirut is still a tinderbox; instability the norm. Throughout its one-hundred-year history, the accord of the city has been shattered from time to time by the crack of gunfire; bullet holes still pockmark the buildings nearly three decades after its 15-year civil war ended. It’s not my first time in Lebanon. My previous visit to the country was on a shawarma crawl through the Middle East, and I found the Lebanese versions of these ubiquitous spit-roasted meat delicacies cleaner and less dominated by lemon juice than elsewhere, with regional herbs and spices like za’atar, cumin and sumac to the fore. This time I’m here with Hawksmoor executive chef Matt Brown, to cook for two

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nights at a local steakhouse, Skirt, whose owners are friends of ours. We rustle up some Hawksmoor favourites to promote our new book, Hawksmoor: Restaurants & Recipes, including tea and buns (with beef tea, bone marrow buns and caviar), charcoal-grilled porterhouse steak and sticky toffee apple tatin. Among the guests is local celebrity chef Athanasios ‘Tommy’ Kargatzidis. Tommy is quite a character and after dinner he invites us to his gaff, Baron, to return the compliment. The next day we’re treated to a masterclass in cooking, presented on the stage of his open kitchen. We’re as much the audience as we are diners, with nothing to separate us from the busy bustle. There’s a small terrace off the main dining space, with a fire pit and lounge seating and if you fancy a cocktail, it’s made at a trolley in front of you. The distinctive menu arranges dishes by their principal component: vegetable, seafood, meat, and sweets. With nearly a dozen items under each header – from cauliflower with shawarma spices, tahinitartare, walnut salsa, and rose petals to Chilean sea bass with soujouk, pepper marmalade and smoked tomato sauce – it’s not easy to choose. Luckily we don’t have to, as Tommy wheels out the ‘chef’s menu’; strapline: Let the kitchen decide. First up are two slices of pain de campagne with what I can best describe as a cross between Moroccan harissa and Syrian muhammara, which lands on our table as we dive into a bottle of Lebanese red wine. Grilled corn on the cob, slathered with feta cream and coriander, arrives soon after, the waiter shaving off the bulbs of the corn into a large plate at the table. Beside the corn lies lamb merguez with tri-coloured bell peppers in a tangy balsamic glaze, accompanied by a scoop of explosive feta mousse. Next up is calamari smothered with zhoug, a Yemeni hot green pepper relish, but it’s somewhat overshadowed by the masterpiece: braised beef short rib, sliced into thin shavings and stuffed inside bao steamed buns

with hoisin, chili, pickled cucumber, spiced crushed almonds and coriander. Our sweet is that quintessential Hellenic pastry, baklava, stuffed with walnut nougatine and mastic nigella seed ice cream, accentuated by candied rose petals. We follow that up with chocolate cream puff:

AT BARON, WE’RE AS MUCH THE AUDIENCE AS WE ARE DINERS


Photograph by [below] Carine Habib / EyeEm / Getty Images

dark chocolate ice cream in a cloud of whipped cream, both fresh and sans sucre. Absolutely bloody marvellous. The theatrical chef’s menu at Baron would be a tough act to follow anywhere, but lunch the next day offers up a show of sorts. While ploughing through a bowl of the most silken hummus with warm, singed flatbread, I become aware of a couple of chunky, bearded fellas to my left – their features are etched fierce; mouths arced in permanent scowls. They stand bolt upright either side of a shop doorway, biceps as thick as my thighs straining under tailor made suits. The tell-tale focus and keen attention of close protection makes them conspicuous, at least to me. These are the show ponies, there to make sure everyone knows how important the principal is. Perhaps less obvious are the six HecklerKoch toting chaps pulled up over the road in three blacked-out 4x4s. That’s right, six – a small army. A shop door opens and a glamorous, immaculately dressed woman strides across the street trailed by her plainclothes bodyguards and a personal assistant who’s carrying her shopping. A car door springs open and Rambo jumps out to open the passenger door for our mystery shopper. The two plain-clothes operatives jump in the other two vehicles and off they ride, armour plating weighing heavy upon bulletproof tires. I turn to my Lebanese dining companions with raised eyebrows. “A politician’s wife”, they shrug, and return to their lunch. That’s Beirut for you… f

OPEN SEASON SE ASONAL PR ODUC E AND W HE R E TO F IND I T Food-waste evangelist, chef and food writer Tom Hunt talks about what to do with the last of the winter’s leeks, in season until March Leeks are one of our main winter crops and keep us going through the coldest months of the year. They don’t just have to be used in standard soups, stocks and stews, though, however comforting they might be. I’d encourage experimenting with this earthy vegetable and discovering your own new recipes. If you want some unconventional ideas, try them chargrilled in salads, on pizza and braised with wine and herbs. Buy leeks that are a vibrant green,

THE URBAN GARDENER

Petersham Nurseries’ Amanda Brame tells us how to make the most of a small city garden If you love tomatoes and chillies, now is the time to sow your seeds. In midFebruary, they must be sown inside – they can’t withstand frost, but waiting until May to sow outside means losing two months of fruit. Fill small pots with a multipurpose compost, firm down lightly, moisten with water, sow around three to four seeds per pot and cover lightly with compost. Once germinated (approximately 7-14 days), place the pots in a bright spot, avoiding direct sunlight. Continue to water sparingly. Turn the pots daily to encourage good strong growth and avoid the seedlings leaning towards the light. When you see roots appear at the base of the pot, thin the seedlings, discarding the weakest and potting the strongest into larger containers. You’ll need to repot them again when you see the first flowers form. After the frosts finish, gradually ‘harden off’ the plants (introduce them

firm and crisp. Small leeks are better for chargrilling and the big leeks good for stews and braising. Leeks keep well at room temperature but will last longer stored in the fridge. The green tops are earthy and tough but still full of flavour. Cut finely and cook alongside the lighter green stem, or use them in stocks and broths. f The Natural Cook by Tom Hunt is available now (Quadrille, £20). For more on Tom and his food projects, see tomsfeast.com

to outside conditions) and place them outside in a sunny, sheltered spot. Ideally, they need six hours of sunshine a day, lots of water and weekly feeding. Remember not to water over the leaves of the tomatoes as this will encourage tomato blight. f Amanda Brame is head of horticulture at Petersham Nurseries Covent Garden; petershamnurseries.com. Read more at fdsm.co/columns

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AT THE TABLE... Gary Lineker talks to Mike Gibson about his favourite places to eat in London, his involvement in Street Feast and how Barcelona changed his palate for the better

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Photograph by Chris Johnson

VEN IF YOU’VE got no interest whatsoever in football or footballers, there are a few players – former and current – that transcend the boundaries of the game itself and become faces that pretty much everyone would recognise were they to ever cross paths with them in the street. You’d recognise David Beckham, for instance, just as your average Brazilian would pick out Neymar in a crowd. Gary Lineker is one such footballer. You might know him for his long and storied England career. You might be a fan of one of the clubs he played for – his native Leicester City, Everton, Barcelona, Tottenham Hotspur or Nagoya Grampus Eight in Japan. But even if you don’t, you’ll probably know him for being the longest-running presenter of Match of the Day since it first aired in 1964. And even if you’ve never watched a game of football (or a highlights programme), you’ll probably know him from regularly popping up in ads for Walkers crisps. And even if you don’t even own a TV (bloody millennials), you’ve almost certainly got Twitter. What you might not know about the very well-known Gary Lineker, however, is that when he’s not hosting Match of the Day, he’s probably hitting up some of London’s hottest restaurants. And if he’s not doing that, he’s probably at Dinerama, the food market owned and operated by his close friend Jonathan Downey under the London Union banner – in which Lineker, along with food luminaries like Nigella Lawson, Yotam Ottolenghi, Giles Coren and more, is an investor. And if he’s not there, he’s probably at home, cooking. Or at Stanley Tucci’s house. Intrigued? You should be. And we were, too, which is why we met him at Dinerama ahead of a night of eating and drinking to talk about his favourite London spots, his interest in street food, his new-found love of cooking, and a bit of football, too. Gary Lineker, the (not-so) secret foodie. Who knew?

Were you interested in food as a footballer or did you become more so once you hung up your boots?

I think we’re all interested in food, aren’t we? But I’ve always enjoyed good food. I suppose your taste buds change as you get older. I lived abroad a little bit as well; in my mid-twenties I was in Barcelona – I still love Spanish food to this day, and it’s great now that we’ve got some good Spanish restaurants in London, places like Barrafina. And I lived in Japan as well, for a couple of years. It’s an art form out there, cooking. There are so many different varieties of food to eat. The food there was amazing.

How much did you have to think about and measure what you were eating when you were a footballer? Not at all in my day. I remember when I first started we used to have steak and chips as a pre-match meal three hours before we played – nobody seemed to know any different; it was a chance for a free meal. I think things have changed somewhat in terms of the diet. But I think it’s about the right things – the right time to eat pasta, the right time to eat carbs, the right time to eat loads of protein. The diet is much more thought-out these days. Weight-wise I’m pretty lucky – fast metabolism, good genes – my battle is to keep my weight up, which I do in the gym. I’m lucky, I can pretty much eat what I want.

How did the opportunity to invest in London Union come up? JD [Jonathan Downey] and I met at a mutual friend’s birthday party, about three years ago. We got chatting, we share an interest in food, we share an interest in wine, we share an interest in football. He brought me over to see these places [Street Feast’s markets], I experienced them with a couple of mates, and they’re just really great places to come. I wasn’t asked to invest; I asked to do it. I’ve invested a bit – not enough to end a friendship if it doesn’t work. It’s a nice little interest as well.

Was it as much a personal interest as a business decision?

It’s just a really cool place. Everyone I speak to that comes here, they love it. You get past 7, 8 o’clock and it’s always pretty packed. It’s a really good business that satisfies everyone. It’s just a “good vibe”, as JD likes to call it.

You can also have good beer, good cocktails and good wine, which isn’t always the case at food markets… Yes. And the other thing nowadays is that it’s not easy to find that many really good bars, especially after you’ve had dinner – where do you go? People like me, you get too old – you don’t want to go to a club where you can’t hear yourself think and you can’t have a conversation. So something like this is different – yes, there’s music, but you can still have a conversation, have a meal or just have a drink – it gives you options. It definitely fills a bit of a void in that area.

How often do you come to Dinerama? It’s the other end of town for me, but once every month or two.

What are some of your favourite things to eat when you’re here? Prawnography – I always like the prawns there. Breddos used to be here, and I love →

I LOVE THE PRAWNS AT PRAWNOGRAPHY, AND I LOVE BREDDOS TACOS 33


ON THE MARKET: Gary Lineker shot for Foodism at Street Feast’s Dinerama market, in which he’s an investor; Dinerama on a busy night

much spectacular choice. We’ve got the best of every country. I’ve got a lot of favourite restaurants, but they’re all different. I don’t have an absolute favourite. If you pushed me for my last meal, it would probably be a mixture of Spanish, a bit of Japanese, and then something like a jam sponge and custard. I’d start with a bit of jamón jabugo, maybe a really beautiful piece of sashimi, and then a really brilliant paella. And then treacle sponge if I had room.

That’s pretty much your footballing career in microcosm, isn’t it? I guess so. But that’s life, isn’t it?

Is there any restaurant in particular that you think you’ve gone to more than any other one? There’s one in particular, it’s my local – Riva in Barnes. I absolutely love Riva.

→ them. They’ve got a couple of restaurants now, which we go to and we’re really keen on. And obviously Smokestak started here, and they’ve since opened a restaurant around the corner which is excellent as well. That’s the thing that sets it apart – the food’s exceptional. I also like the fact that it gives young, talented chefs who specialise in one thing the opportunity to have their own business without having the mad expense and pressures of opening a restaurant. So it kind of works on all fronts.

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A couple of times a week. I cook a lot as well now because I was going out every night. It’s a new passion, cooking – I’ve been doing it for about two years – but I love it, and I’m getting into it. If I do something, I have to do it well. I’m a bit of a perfectionist – not that it’s perfection, but I’m doing alright. My boys come round a lot and I cook, especially on Sundays. But I’ve always gone out a lot, always gone to restaurants, and always really enjoyed food and wine.

How long would you say you’ve been pursuing restaurants as a passion? I think it’s just grown gradually. Realistically it would have started in my mid-twenties around Barcelona. I started collecting a little bit of wine then as well. Then, having had that experience, I came back and lived in London, so there were all different kinds of restaurants open to me. And then I moved to Japan. So I think it’s just gradually evolved, and now it’s turned into a real passion, and also with cooking as well. So the two things combine.

Do you have an ideal kind of restaurant that you like to eat in? No. I’ve got a very varied taste. That’s the joy of being in London, isn’t it? We’ve got so

Stanley Tucci also loves that restaurant. Have you seen him there? I know Stanley. He lives just around the corner from me. He’s a top guy, and he’s a proper chef. He’s got books out. I’ve been to his house loads of times – he’s always cooking something. But I love Riva – I’ve done lots of evenings there, with Andrea, the owner. So that’s kind of my favourite. Then I’ve got Clipstone, which I love, Breddos and Smokestak. Luca, that’s quite good. Lyle’s is good. We did a thing recently, a restaurant crawl – we had tacos at Breddos; Luca was second, we had a pasta course; then we went to Smokestak and had brisket and ribs, and then we went to Lyle’s for dessert and coffee, and wine. It was really fun – I’ve never done that before.

If you could go to dinner with anyone in football, who would it be? Messi. He’s a bit of a hero of mine. f

For more information on Street Feast and London Union, go to streetfeast.com and londonunion.com

Photograph (Gary Lineker) by Chris Johnson

WE’VE GOT SO MUCH CHOICE IN LONDON – THE BEST OF EVERY COUNTRY

How often to you tend to go out for a proper meal with a few mates?


BITE-SIZED

FOODISM.CO.UK/ NEWSLETTER

Dining

L’AM I M A L O

NOW

Dining

SAB OR

DRINKING

1 FEBRUARY

GRAZING

Nieves Barragán Mohacho’s hotly anticipated restaurant and asador hits Heddon Street this month. Mohacho and her business partner José Etura met at Spanish tapas restaurant Barrafina, so if you’re not already familiar with her cooking, that should give you a little taste of what to expect. Sabor means flavour in Spanish and, by the sounds of it, there’s going to be plenty of that to go around. What are you waiting for? Bag yourself a seat and let the chefs take you on a journey across Spain plate by plate. W1B 4BR; saborrestaurants.co.uk

DINING TRENDING

THE RADAR Grazing

DA DDY BAO

NOW Buns fluffier than that extra-special pillow you just spent fifty quid on? You better believe it. Don’t get mad though, get even. Hop on the Northern Line and head south-west to stuff your face with some seriously silky steamed Taiwanese buns and crunchy fried chicken at Daddy Bao, Mr Bao’s brand-new opening on Tooting’s Mitcham Road. SW17 9PE; daddybao.com

E NOT ECA R OSSO

NOW

Trending

G R EY HOU ND CAF É

NOW Bangkok fashion-house-turned-chic-caféchain Greyhound opened its first site outside of Asia last month. Set over two floors, the Fitzrovia restaurant is said to marry the contemporary ‘cosmopolitan outlook’ of London with Bangkok to create an artsy space infused with the flavours and culture of modern Thailand. Yeah, we’re not really sure exactly what to expect either, but what we can tell you is that it looks jazzy, care-free and the menu sounds absolutely delicious.

W1T 3NB; greyhoundcafe.co.th

Grazing

RU DIE’S B OX PAR K NOW As if we needed another excuse to spend our days eating away our waistlines in Shoreditch, Dalston-based Jamaican restaurant Rudie’s has just opened its second site in Boxpark. Expect all the usual suspects – including jerk chicken, curry goat, ackee and saltfish, and boss burgers – plus the added bonus of lunchtime specials and office deliveries. Get in. E1 6GY; rudieslondon.com

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Drinking

An Italian-only wine list with plates of cheese, charcuterie and the likes of saffron tagliatelle, spicy broccoli ravioli and, er, fig carbonara? Oh, go on then. W8 6ND; enotecarosso.com

Trending

POONS

17 FEBRUARY

February sees the return of a 1990s classic as Chinese restaurant Poons, originally run by Bill Poon, is brought back like a phoenix from the ashes by daughter Amy, with classic dishes and new creations alike. EC1V 8AP; poonslondon.com

Photographs by [L’Ami Malo] Charlie McKa; (greyhound Cafe] Ryoty; [Enoteca Rosso] Derek; [Sabor] Chris Terry

Feeling hungry? Then get your teeth into the best new bar and restaurant openings in London

The humble crêpe gets a sophisticated makeover as Emilien Lesourd and Vincent Couvreur launch their contemporary French crêperie and speakeasy bar in Spitalfields’ Artillery Passage. E1 7LJ; lamimalo.com


PROMOTION

THE SLICE OF LIFE Authentic Neapolitan pizzeria ROSSOPOMODORO specialise in pizza with a light, crisp and delicious dough, with high-protein and vegan options on the new menu, too

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HE BASE FOR a great-tasting, traditional pizza only needs three ingredients: white flour, water and yeast. And at ROSSOPOMODORO, pizza is made of just that. But it’s the science behind that dough that makes things interesting. Each mouthful is packed with an enzyme called amylase, which turns starch into sugars. Put simply, the longer you leaven the dough, the lighter it’ll be on your stomach, which is why ROSSOPOMODORO is the only pizzeria to proof its dough for a full 24 hours before cooking it. But that’s not quite enough for ROSSOPOMODORO – great pizza is all about research, analysis and innovation, too. That’s why it’s launched a new High Proteins Dough, which swaps white 00 flour for a mixture of organic whole flours and quinoa seeds. It’s not just more fibrous and better for your gut, though, it’s less calorific,

richer in flavour and more vitamin-rich than normal dough, too. And as if the challenge of creating a new, healthy dough wasn’t enough for head chef Gianluca Petrone, he’s also tricked out his latest pizzas with hearty, healthy vegan toppings. So try the new pizzas: the potato, red onion, black olive and caper-topped Patate e Cipolle; the Verdurana, topped with courgette, aubergine, pan-fried friarielli and vegan mozzarella; and the Pomodori Capricciosi, with Roma tomato sauce, anchovies, yellow tomatoes, artichokes, black olives, mixed mushrooms and oregano. It’s new, it’s innovative, but it’s still 100% authentic Neapolitan pizza. ● Find out more at rossopomodoro.co.uk, or keep up to date with the brand on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram at

GET 50% OFF Want to try ROSSOPOMODORO’s three new signature pizzas for yourself? We’ve got just the deal for you. Simply drop by a ROSSOPOMODORO restaurant of your choice, mention foodism, and you’ll get 50% off your pizzas.

@rossopomodoro.uk

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— PART 2 —

FEAST “MAKING LOW-ALCOHOL BEERS IS CHALLENGING. BUT IF IT WASN’T, THEN EVERYONE WOULD BE BREWING THEM” JIMI FAMUREWA ON THE RISE OF LOW-ALCOHOL – AND NO-ALCOHOL – BEERS 057

040 FOODISM 100 | 046 STEVIE PARLE | 057 ALCOHOL-FREE BEER 060 REGIONAL CHINESE CUISINE | 067 WINE IN 2018 | 072 MIXOLOGY


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In January, we celebrated 100 London venues and businesses effecting positive change in London’s food and drink scene. Here they are, for your reading pleasure

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Featured entry

THE GREAT CHASE

BEST CASUAL RESTAURANT Blueprint Café

28 Shad Thames, SE1 2YD; blueprintcafe.co.uk

Bonnington Café

11 Vauxhall Grove, SW8 1TD; bonningtoncafe.co.uk

Brigade

139 Tooley Street, SE1 2HZ; thebrigade.co.uk

  WINNER CHIK’N

A fine-dining restaurant with a strong emphasis on ethics. Ingredients are responsibly sourced and free-range, and food is wholesome, halal and expertly crafted. It offers cordials and concoctions, and rare teas and coffees, with a unique dry bar. @thegreatchase1

BEST FINEDINING RESTAURANT Frenchie

16 Henrietta Street, WC2E 8QH; frenchiecoventgarden.com

  WINNER The Frog E1

Old Truman Brewery, E1 6QR; thefrogrestaurant.com

134 Baker Street, W1U 6SH; chikn.com

Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen

15 Westland Place, N1 7LP; fifteen.net

Lyle’s

CLAW

Tea Building, 56 Shoreditch High Street, E1 6JJ; lyleslondon.com

claw.co.uk

Petersham Nurseries

21 Kingly Street, W1B 5QA;

Cub

Photographs by [main] AlbertPego; [Great Chase] @sheenieshaikh Photograph by ###

153 Hoxton Street, N1 6PJ; lyancub.com

Church Lane, Petersham Road, TW10 7AB; petershamnurseries.com

Portland

Farmacy

113 Great Portland Street, W1W 6QQ;

farmacylondon.com

Spring

74 Westbourne Grove, W2 5SH;

portlandrestaurant.co.uk

Nutbourne

Somerset House, WC2R 1LA;

nutbourne-restaurant.com

St. John Smithfield

35-37 Parkgate Road, SW11 4NP;

Pitt Cue

1 The Avenue, Devonshire Square, EC2M 4YP; pittcue.co.uk

Sager + Wilde Paradise Row

250 Paradise Row, E2 9LE; sagerandwilde.com

springrestaurant.co.uk

26 St John Street, EC1M 4AY; stjohnrestaurant.com

The Balcon

8 Pall Mall, SW1Y 5NG; thebalconlondon.com

The Great Chase

316 St John Street, EC1V 4NT; thegreatchase.co.uk

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BEST PUB Cubitt House Group

Various locations; cubitthouse.co.uk

Long Arm Pub & Brewery

20-26 Worship Street, EC2A 2DX; longarmpub.co.uk

Featured entry

139 Graham Street, N1 8LB; plaqlock.com

The Alexandra

33 Wimbledon Hill Road, SW19 7NE; alexandrawimbledon.com

The Antwerp Arms

168-170 Church Road, N17 8AS; antwerparms.co.uk

Smoking Goat and Kiln; kilnsoho.com; smokinggoatbar.com

Think.Eat.Drink; thinkeatdrink.co.uk

Lauren Le Franc

The Little Coffee & Bean Company; truebluejm.com

dukeorganic.co.uk

Ryan Chetiyawardana

The Harwood Arms Walham Grove, SW6 1QP; harwoodarms.com

The Hour Glass

279-283 Brompton Road, SW3 2DY; hourglasspub.co.uk

The Ivy House

40 Stuart Road, SE15 3BE; ivyhousenunhead.com

The Three Stags

67-69 Kennington Road, SE1 7PZ; thethreestags.london

Paul Brown

BOL Foods; bolfoods.com ▼

Mr Lyan Bars; mrlyan.com

Sean Cannon Cannon & Cannon;

cannonandcannon.com

Serena Guen, Clerkenwell Boy and Gemma Bell

#CookForSyria; cookforsyria.com

  WINNER Stephanie Wood

School Food Matters;

schoolfoodmatters.org

Thomasina Miers Wahaca, wahaca.co.uk

Tom Hunt

Tom’s Feast; tomsfeast.com

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Paul Brown is the founder of BOL Foods, the first mainstream food brand to remove meat and fish from its entire range in pursuit of a more sustainable and ethical business. Brown hopes this step will inspire more people to follow a plant-based diet, a journey he believes is both better for you and kinder to the planet. @bolfoods

Jamie Grainger-Smith

  WINNER The Duke of Cambridge

30 St Peter’s Street, N1 8JT;

PAUL BROWN (BOL FOODS)

Ben Chapman

Photographs by [Thomasina Miers] David Harrison; [Massimo Bottura] imon John Owen / Red Photographic; [Trach Tiki] Jason Bailey; [Duke of Cambridge] Tricia de courcy ling;

Plaquemine Lock

POSITIVE CHANGE HERO


Featured entry

THE BELAZU FOUNDATION

The Belazu Ingredient company is renowned for producing and sourcing authentic Mediterranean products, and is loved by chefs in some of the world’s most acclaimed restaurants. The Belazu Foundation is the business’s charity arm, which builds educational initiatives in the UK and abroad to foster a more positive relationship between kids and the food they eat. @belazu_co

BEST BAR Duck + Waffle/ Sushisamba

Heron Tower, 110 Bishopsgate, EC2N 4AY; duckandwaffle.com,

BEST SOCIAL ENTERPRISE Chilli con Carner gomacollective.com

  FareShare WINNER

THE JUDGING PANEL: The category winners were selected by a judging panel made up of foodism staff and individuals from across the food and drink industry. To see the full list of judges, go to fdsm.co/100.

fareshare.org.uk

Made in Hackney madeinhackney.org

Magic Breakfast magicbreakfast.com

Migrateful migrateful.org

Old Spike Roastery oldspikeroastery.com

Refettorio Felix refettoriofelix.com

StreetSmart

streetsmart.org.uk

Social Pantry socialpantry.co.uk

The Belazu Foundation belazu.com

sushisamba.com

Grow Hackney

98C Main Yard, Wallis Road, E9 5LN; grow-hackney.squarespace.com

Hawksmoor Spitalfields 157A Commercial Street, E1 6BJ; thehawksmoor.com

Nine Lives

8 Holyrood St, SE1 2EL; ninelivesbar.com

Oriole

Smithfield Market, East Poultry Avenue, EC1A 9LH; oriolebar.com

Scout

93 Great Eastern Street, EC2A 3JD; scout.bar

  WINNER Super Lyan

155 Hoxton Street, N1 6PJ; superlyan.com

The Happenstance

10 Paternoster Square, EC4M 7DX; drakeandmorgan.co.uk

The Laughing Heart 277 Hackney Road, E2 8NA;

thelaughingheartlondon.com

Trash Tiki

Various locations; trashtikisucks.com

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BEST CAFE Attendant Coffee

Various locations; the-attendant.com

  WINNER Café from Crisis

64 Commercial Street, E1 6LT; Featured entry

ATTENDANT COFFEE

A friendly café housed in a reclaimed public toilet. Since launching in Fitzrovia in 2013 they’ve expanded the Attendant brand, with two further sites in Clerkenwell and Shoreditch, though the commitment to working with sustainable UK dairy farmers, ethical producers and coffee plantations across the world remains as strong as ever. Put simply, they’re deadly serious about coffee, food and the provenance of their ingredients. @attendant_uk

crisis.org.uk

Central Street Cafe

90 Central Street, EC1V 8AB; centralstreetcafe.london

BEST FOOD MARKET Borough Market

8 Southwark Street, SE1 1TL; boroughmarket.org.uk

Growing Communities Market

St Pauls Church, Stoke Newington High Street, N16 7UY; growingcommunities.org

Hackney Pirates

Hackney Downs Vegan Market

hackneypirates.org

fatgayvegan.com

My Jamii Café

Maltby Street Market

3 Honor Oak, SE23 1DX;

37 Maltby Street, SE1 3PA; maltby.st

myjamiicafe.com

Mercato Metropolitano

138 Kingsland High Street, E8 2NS;

Over Under

181A Earls Court Road, SW5 9RB; overundercoffee.com

Paper & Cup

18 Calvert Avenue, E2 7JP; paperandcup.co.uk

Redemption Roasters

84b Lamb’s Conduit St, WC1N 3LR;

Amhurst Terrace, E8 2BT;

42 Newington Causeway, SE1 6DR; mercatometropolitano.co.uk

Model Market

196 Lewisham High Street, SE13 6LS; streetfeast.com

  WINNER Pop Brixton

redemptionroasters.com

popbrixton.org

Spike + Earl

Street Food Union

spikeandearl.com

streetfoodunion.com

The Canvas Café

Tooting Market

thecanvascafe.org

tootingmarket.com

31 Peckham Road, SE5 8UB;

42 Hanbury Street, E1 5JL;

49 Brixton Station Road, SW9 8PQ;

51-53 Rupert Street, W1D 7PQ;

21-23 Tooting High Street, SW17 0SN;

Victoria Park Market 56-57 Gore Road, E9 7HN; victoriaparkmarket.com

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Showcase entry

Featured entry

GOURMET GOAT

#NC SUPPER CLUBS Photographs by [Pop Brixto] Camille Mack; [Gourmet Goat] Miles Willis; [Conflict Cafe] EdAldridge; [wastED] Gareth Davies

A supper club founded and run by keen cook Nesan Thirunesan, which donates a portion of its profits to charitable causes and seeks to employ single, long-term unemployed parents who are seeking a move into the hospitality industry. Everything that can have a sustainable edge at #NCSupperClubs does: from the cutlery to the crockery, there’s a strict ethos on using only ecofriendly and 100% biodegradable products. The aim behind the supper clubs, as well as socialising and having a platform on which to take part in the sustainable and ethical eating conversation, are about educating people on authentic Indian, Sri Lankan and Mauritian flavours. @ttnesan

A street-food trader making Eastern Mediterranean-inspired dishes using goat meat from the goat dairy industry, British rose veal and local, seasonal vegetables. The stall holds a three-star rating with the SRA and co-founders Nick and Nadia work with the local council on sustainability and how to develop the area’s food offering. @Gourmet_Goat

BEST POP-UP /RESIDENCY Conflict Café

Various locations;

grubclub.com/conflict-cafe

#CookForSyria Bake Off Various locations; cookforsyria.com

Crické Food Experience Various locations; crickefood.com

Flank

Old Spitalfields Market, E1 6AA; flanklondon.com

Fodder

Platform1, 71 Lordship Lane, SE22 8EP; facebook.com/fodderpopup

Nape

Various locations; napelondon.com

#NCSupperClubs Various locations; @ttnesan

Smoke & Salt

Pop Brixton, SW9 8PQ; smokeandsalt.com

Tiny Leaf

Mercato Metropolitano, SE1 6DR; tinyleaflondon.com

  WINNER ▶ wastED London

Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, W1A 1AB; wastedlondon.com

BEST STREETFOOD TRADER Breadwinners

56-57 Gore Rd, E9 7HN; breadwinners.org.uk

Change Please

Various locations; changeplease.org

Club Mexicana

Various locations; clubmexicana.com

The Dusty Knuckle Bakery Abbot Street, E8 3DP; thedustyknuckle.com

Temple of Seitan

Hackney Down Vegan Market, E8 2BT; templeofseitan.co.uk

  WINNER Gourmet Goat

27 Rochester Walk, SE1 9AF; gourmetgoat.co.uk

MYPIE

Various locations; mypie.london

The Roadery

The Stables Market, NW1 8AH; roaderyfood.com

What the Fattoush? Brixton Rooftop, SW9 8JH; whatthefattoush.com

Zoe’s Ghana Kitchen zoesghanakitchen.co.uk

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MY CAREER IN DISHES: STEVIE PARLE

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MY STYLE OF COOKING IS ALWAYS STRIPPEDBACK, SUPER SIMPLE, AND BASED ON PRODUCE Ever wanted an insight into the mind of a chef? Jordan Kelly-Linden meets Stevie Parle, one of London’s most highly thought-of restaurateurs, for a crash-course in his cooking philosophy

CLICK

FOODISM.CO.UK

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I “

THINK I ALWAYS wanted to be a chef,” Stevie Parle reflects. “But I guess I didn’t realise it was an option until I was about 14.” Achieving big things at a young age has been something of a theme for the prolific restaurateur, who has so far launched five successful London restaurants. Only the first of them – the popular Dock Kitchen in Ladbroke Grove – is no longer open. From that early realisation, it took him only two more years to put his plan into action, leaving his hometown of Birmingham for Ireland at 16, to begin his culinary training at the Ballymaloe cooking school. Less than one year later he “blagged”, as he puts it, his way into a job at the River Cafe. Even now, 15 years on, Parle remains one of the youngest cooks to have been employed there. While his time at the River Cafe clearly inspired his cooking style, which he describes as “always stripped-back, super simple and based on produce,” the Italian influence would show through later. After opening Dock Kitchen in 2009 – where Parle was serving the likes of Nigella and Mick Jagger out of designer Tom Dixon’s “really cool

little wooden shanty sheds” – the chef’s career snowballed. With a cookbook, a couple of years writing for the Telegraph and a TV series with Channel 4 under his belt, Parle went on to open Rotorino, a southern Italian restaurant in Dalston, in April 2014. The following year came CRAFT London – another collaboration with Dixon, this time on the Greenwich peninsula – where he began exploring ancient British cooking techniques, before returning to an Italian theme with Clerkenwell’s Rome-inspired Palatino in 2017, followed by fresh seasonal pasta at Pastaio in Carnaby later that year. Parle’s Italian inflection isn’t just because he loves pasta (which these days, as Pastaio finds its feet, he tells us he eats for almost every meal). Instead, Parle reckons, “London is moving from more out-there dining experiences into something more relaxed and comforting. The Italian style of eating is really applicable to modern London life.” To find out how his journey in food translates to the plate, we invited Parle to the foodism kitchen to create five dishes from his past and present. Prepare to feel ravenous…


Photograph by ###

CHICKEN LIVER WITH POMEGRANATE MOLASSES Dock Kitchen “This dish, made with liver, pomegranate molasses, seven spices, yoghurt

and flatbread, is one of my favourites. It’s a Dock Kitchen classic. I ate it in Lebanon years ago, brought it back with me, and it has just been on the menu ever since. People would come up to the pass and say ‘I didn’t think I liked livers, but that dish was amazing.’ It was always a bit heart-warming for me, somehow, to hear that.”

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GNUDI Rotorino

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“Gnudi, meaning ‘nude’, is like a ravioli without any pasta. It’s a brilliant dish and it’s almost always on the menu at Rotorino. Throughout the year we try out different recipes, sometimes with peas, squash, or mint. To make it, we season

the ricotta and roll it in the semolina, then let it sit there until it forms its own skin. After that, we poach it until it makes this incredibly light, delicious ricotta dumpling. I first learned to make it at River Cafe and then I made it with April Bloomfield at The Spotted Pig in New York when I worked there years ago. I knew I wanted to put it on the menu when I opened Rotorino.”


WE ARE PROUD to HONOUR THE LEGENDARY INNOVATOR JOHN CRABBIE WITH OUR ADVENTUROUS RANGE OF UNCONVENTIONAL HANDCRAFTED ALCOHOLIC GINGER BEER BLENDS.


CLAY-BAKED DUCK CRAFT London “This dish was born out of my obsession with Googling weird stuff about cooking. I was looking at ancient British cooking techniques, and clay-baking was very important if you didn’t have an oven. If you wanted to cook something that you couldn’t

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do directly over the fire, it was a good way to do it. So we developed this way of cooking a duck at CRAFT. It’s quite a complex process: we make miso out of broad beans, which we paint the skin with, then we bake it wrapped in fermented cabbage and clay, and break it open at the table and people love it. It’s been on the menu since we opened and it’ll be there till we close.”


CACIO E PEPE Palatino Photograph by ###

“I’ve been obsessed with making cacio e pepe for as long as I can remember. It’s a recipe that was in my first cookbook, which I wrote when I was 24, and when I opened Palatino last January,

I really wanted to have it on the menu because it’s a classic Roman dish. It sums up all that is good about Italian food for me: there are no fancy ingredients – it’s just cheese and pepper and pasta – but when you put it together in the right way, it creates something that’s just so much more than the sum of its individual parts.”

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GROUSE, PORK AND VEAL AGNOLI “Pastaio is the pasta restaurant that I recently opened in Soho and, obviously, we serve mostly pasta there.

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Pastaio

My favourite dish that’s on the menu right now is the agnoli – it’s a bunch of different wild meats cooked slowly together with juniper and red wine, and then stuffed inside little pasta parcels. It’s great – I love it.” f For the full interview, go to foodism.co.uk. For more information, go to stevieparle.co.uk


THERE IS NOTHING MORE INDULGENT THAN SINKING SLOWLY INTO THE TUB

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ZERO WORSHIP More and more people are choosing to cut out booze, but that doesn’t mean saying goodbye to beer. Jimi Famurewa surveys the nascent low and no-alcohol brewing scene

Photograph by ###

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A

T FIRST GLANCE, there’s not much to distinguish Nirvana Brewery’s headquarters from London’s many, many similar-looking craft beer hubs. Nestled in something of a Google Maps black hole on the fringes of a Leyton industrial estate, it has the gleaming tanks, pungent hop-scented air and vaguely Breaking Bad paraphernalia (giant rubber gloves, whirring machinery – you know the type) that help mark it out as a cathedral of floral IPAs, malty pales and chocolatey stouts. But there’s an unseen yet very important distinction that sets Nirvana apart from the estimated 100-plus other breweries in the capital. In a move bound to confirm plenty of outsider preconceptions about London’s bottomless appetite for any number of esoteric food and drink innovations, this is the country’s first non-alcoholic brewery. No beer made behind Nirvana’s shutter doors will ever have an ABV of more than 0.5%. Even a few years ago, this would have been the kind of doomed business plan that had a Dragon’s Den researcher gleefully rubbing their hands. But in the last 18 months – and especially towards the tailend of 2017 – there has been a detectable wind of change blowing through London’s drinks industry. Young people, as we’re repeatedly told, are drinking less (according to the Office for National Statistics, more than a quarter of 16 to 24-year-olds are now teetotal) while, on a macro level, other

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groups appear to be following suit (general alcohol consumption is the lowest it’s been since 2005). That’s in addition to the fact that we’re in the age of personal challenges like One Year No Beer, Go Sober for October and Dry January; and then there’s the Mindful Drinking movement. This buzzy, thoroughly modern phenomenon involves scrutinising and altering your relationship with alcohol, and it has birthed enthusiastic collectives (Club Soda), spin-off events (Spitalfields’ biannual Mindful Drinking Festival) and a rash of recently published books (Mindful Drinking, The Sober Diaries and The 28 Day Alcohol-Free Challenge, to name a few). It was this atmosphere of resurgent temperance, coupled with a stomach condition that

CRAFT BEER IS BOOMING, BUT THERE’S A GROWING POPULATION OF NONDRINKERS

required a period of abstinence, that prompted Steve Dass – a former rep for a Belgian beer brand – to launch Nirvana. “I’ve worked in the industry for the last eight years,” says Dass, pouring me a morning pint of 0.0% Karma pale ale in Nirvana’s dinky upstairs taproom, “and when I talked to buyers I’d be getting feedback and feeling the vibe that there was a shift going on. “Craft beer is great, and it’s booming, but there’s a section of the population that doesn’t drink. It may be lifestyle, it may be for health reasons or maybe religion. Personally, I wasn’t well a few years ago so couldn’t drink, and the only alcohol-free beer I could find was horrible. So I just felt it had to be done.” After an unsuccessful, “bloody souldestroying” crowdfund in late 2016 , Dass’s dream was saved by Becky and Joe Kean, sibling benefactors with a personal passion for low-alcohol beer. Nirvana launched its core, four-beer range in summer 2017 – which, as well as Karma, includes Sutra IPA, Tantra pale ale and Kosmic, one of the few alcohol-free stouts around. So far, the gamble appears to be paying off – Nirvana beers are now available in Whole Foods and on tap in various London pubs including The Cock Tavern in Hackney and Strongroom Bar in Shoreditch – and Dass isn’t the only brewer prospering thanks to a new generation of flexibly abstemious drinkers. Where once the mention of 0% beer conjured images of unappetising, dusty bottles of Kaliber (or the potent Simpsons joke


in which it’s revealed that the Kwik-E-Mart’s utopian garden is hidden behind an unused refrigerator door marked ‘Non-Alcoholic Beer’), these days fans of intriguingly hopped alcohol-free alternatives in London are spoilt for choice. From market leader Becks Blue to Slough-based low-alcohol brewer Big Drop, Square Root Soda’s artisan shandies and a new London operation reviving the 18thcentury tradition of ‘small beer’, there are varied practitioners working hard to erase the memory of their acrid alcohol-free forbears. Nirvana’s beers are a case in point. Malty, complex and lacking the chemical backnote of some alcohol-free brews, they’re incredibly close to the real thing. “We knew there was a huge market for low-alcohol beers but they’d only really existed as flavoured water before,” adds James Watt, co-founder of BrewDog, who launched the original version of their 0.5% hit, Nanny State way back in 2009. “Our goal with Nanny State was always to create a flavour-packed, hoppy, lowalcohol option that could rival any full-blown alcoholic beer,” Watt continues. “Basically, our beer has always been about pushing boundaries and challenging perceptions. And Nanny State proves that beer can still be beer at the lowest end of the ABV spectrum.” Watt’s confidence is backed by some impressive statistics. According to Nielsen, Nanny State is the ninth most popular craft beer of any kind in the country and, thanks to Dry January, it actually outsold the brand’s popular 5.6% Punk IPA on its online shop during January 2016. As with the mainstream craft movement, Big Beer’s mega brands have taken notice: Budweiser’s alcohol-free Bud Prohibition Brew recently joined Heineken’s DOG HOUSE: [main] BrewDog founders James Watt (left) and Martin Dickie; [clockwise from above] Nirvana’s vats; the brewery’s Tantra Pale Ale; a line-up from Big Drop; BrewDog’s 0.5% Nanny State

IT IS A CHALLENGE. BUT IF IT WASN’T, EVERYONE WOULD BE BREWING THESE BEERS new 0.0% spin-off in a bid to dominate a market that some analysts are claiming could be worth £300m in ten years. “I think it’s great that the bigger companies are on board with it,” says Club Soda’s co-founder Jussi Tolvi. “It brings more visibility and credibility to the whole sector and I think there’s still room for more beers.” Dass, on the other hand, is fairly disparaging about both the methods and motivations of these newly virtuous multinationals. “They have these machines that cost half a million quid and run a process called reverse osmosis,” says Dass. “It strips the alcohol, and everything else, from the product. If they want to brew a zillion litres they just press a button.” Conversely, small-batch alcohol-free brewing is a fiendish, meticulous process involving slower fermentation times, lower sugar levels, canny over-hopping and a lot of ditched batches. “If there’s too much alcohol in it, it goes down the sink,” says Dass, ruefully. “It is challenging. But if it wasn’t,

then everyone would be brewing these beers.” So, can alcohol-free beer’s journey, from pop culture punchline to unlikely mainstream sensation, continue? Well, buoyant sales for the likes of Nanny State (up, according to Watt, by 160% in the last year) point to something that’s more than a passing fad. But, more than this, the destigmatisation of abstention in general – and non-sugary booze-alternatives in particular – feels tied to a wider cultural moment. Healthification. Mindfulness. Being conscious. However you bracket them, these changes are a growing part of how we live today. And alcoholfree beer is just a small component of a collective behavioural shift that potentially encompasses much, much more. “Listen, we’re not telling people to not drink regular beer,” says Dass, smiling from behind the bar in an improbable dream he has somehow turned into a successful reality. “But I don’t think you need to have alcohol if you want to get a buzz.” f

Photograph [Nanny State] by Alex Pielak

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NEW PLATES: The dishes at London Bridge restaurant Duddell’s are based on traditional Cantonese cuisine, with a firm focus on fresh flavours and authentic dim sum

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BEST CHINA

There’s a hell of a lot more to Chinese food than sweet and sour. Johanna Derry guides us through the country’s regional cuisines 61


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ANCY A CHINESE?’ This question is likely to soon be one of the past. To imagine your local takeaway can adequately represent the food of a country that covers 9.6 million sq km is like saying the chip shop is representative of European dining. In fact, most of what we’d consider ‘Chinese’ food is an anglicised version of Cantonese food, created by Hong Kong immigrants who immigrated to the UK. “My parents ran a Chinese takeaway,” says John Li of Dumpling Shack of Old Spitalfields Market. “Before service started we’d eat dinner, which was entirely different to what we were selling. We very rarely ate Chinese takeaway-style food.” But, as has happened for Indian, Mexican

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and Italian foods, our horizons are being broadened and we’re becoming more interested in the nitty gritty of what the different regions of China have to offer. Mainland China is more open than ever, meaning more Brits are visiting to discover what’s there for themselves, and more Chinese people are moving to London to show us the food they grew up with. So say farewell to bright orange sweet and sour pork and hello to something altogether more delicious and more authentic.

Cantonese Let’s start with what we think we know. ‘Cantonese’ is used to describe the cuisine of Hong Kong and the southern regions of China. “It’s an area full of resources,”

IN SAFE HANDS: [clockwise from above] Dim sum is made daily at Dumplings’ Legend; Cantonese steamed turbot at Plum Valley; Duck Duck Goose

explains Iris Ma, wife of Plum Valley owner Stanley Cheung. “There’s lots of seafood and vegetables, and they don’t use much spice because they want to emphasise the freshness of the ingredients.” One of the signature dishes of Cantonese food, according to Oli Brown of Duck Duck Goose, is steamed fish served with ginger, spring onions and slightly sweet soy sauce. “There’s a subtlety and cleanness to Cantonese cooking,” he explains. Dim sum comes from this part of China, a term used to describe small bites that


SICHUAN CUISINE IS KNOWN FOR BEING HOT, SWEET, SALTY AND TONGUENUMBING

Photograph (Dumplings’ Legend) by Greg Woodward

Cantonese people eat for breakfast, from dumplings to custard tarts. Roast meats are also a key part, marinated and slow roasted, and not to be at all confused with aromatic crispy duck. “Cantonese duck is more about snap than crisp, like pork crackling,” Brown explains, “and will always be served on the bone with gravy or soy sauce – it’s like a Sunday roast in some ways.” Look for: Fresh ingredients, steamed or roasted, soy, ginger, and onion. Try: Steamed fish at Plum Valley in Chinatown, roast duck at Duck Duck Goose in Pop Brixton, or Cantonese Dim Sum Symphony at Duddell’s at London Bridge.

Sichuan The Sichuan region (also written as

weather is too cold most of the year for vegetables to grow,” explains Chinese Laundry’s Tongtong Ren. “You’ll find a lot of fermented Chinese cabbage, leek, potatoes, daikon, corn, green beans and mushrooms on a northern Chinese family table.” Lots of northern Chinese dishes also feature foods that have been salted, like fermented soy beans made into a miso-like paste, or pickled to be spicy and savoury, like courgettes in soy or sun-dried daikon. These then all go into different dishes to create further flavour variations. Look for: Fermented vegetables and preserved meats, carbohydrate-heavy wheat noodles and dumplings. Try: Steamed mantou buns at Mama Lan across London and steamed big baozi and slow-cooked stews at the soon-to-reopen Chinese Laundry in Islington. →

Szechuan) is in the centre of China, and is geographically below sea level, making it a hot, humid place. Sichuan people believe that to get damp out of the body and prevent water retention, you need to fill the body with heat. That’s why one of the defining characteristics of Sichuan food is the use of the Sichuan pepper, which gives food a numbing quality. “Sichuan cuisine is known for being hot, sweet, salty and tongue-numbing,” says Fei Wang, head chef at Hutong. One of the signature dishes of this area is hotpot, a speciality of Shuang Shuang. “The most popular in China is called Ma La,” says restaurant owner Fah Sundravorakul, “which means literally numb and spicy, because of the numbing Sichuan peppercorn and spicy chillies.” But there are other Sichuan dishes we’d recognise from our local takeaway too – kung po chicken, mapo tofu, and shredded pork in spicy sauce all originate in the region. Look for: Numbing heat and hot spice. Try: Ma La at Shuang Shuang in Chinatown or kung po chicken at Hutong in the Shard.

Beijing and the North East The terrain of northern China, with its vast deserts and cold temperatures, means its cuisine is very different to that of the southern regions. Too cold to grow rice, its food is predominantly wheat-based – noodles and dumplings feature heavily. The country’s capital Beijing is in the north, and it’s the cuisine from here that Ning Ma, founder of Mama Lan, focuses on. “The food has more flavours and is generally richer and heartier,” she says. “Dumplings and noodles are key dishes. There are others, too, like jian bing, a savoury crepe people have for breakfast.” “There’s a lot of fermentation, as the

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POT SHOT: [left] Shuang Shuang’s hotpot is full of Sichuan cuisine’s signature spice; [below] Shanghai favourite shenjianbao at Dumpling Shack

Xi’an Impression, opposite Arsenal’s Emirates football stadium, is currently the only Xi’an-specific restaurant in London, a reflection of the food Zhang was raised with. “Some people come in expecting prawn crackers. I get them to try the pot-sticker dumplings, which might be more familiar.” Look for: Fat flat noodles, balanced umami flavours, skin-cold noodles. Try: Biang biang noodles, ru jia mo, and liang pi at Xi’an Impression in Highbury .

Shanghai

→ Shaanxi The capital of China’s north-western China’s Shaanxi region is Xi’an, home to the terracotta army, and in China, one of the country’s most popular cuisines, yet in the UK it’s less known. Full of savoury flavours, Xi’an cuisine is the Goldilocks of Chinese food – not too sour, not too spicy, a little umami. “One flavour is not stronger than another,” explains Chao Zhang, from Highbury’s Xi’an Impression. “In every dish we try to balance the ginger, garlic, vinegar, umami, and oil.” Like other northern cuisines, it’s wheatbased, but unlike in Beijing, the noodles are often fat, flat and wide. The quintessential example is biang biang, a wide, hand-pulled noodle, often served with a topping of hot peppers to combat the Shaanxi winter cold, ru jia mo (flatbread stuffed with savoury meat) and liang pi (‘skin-cold’ noodle salad).

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XI’AN CUISINE IS THE GOLDILOCKS OF CHINESE FOOD – NOT TOO SOUR, NOT TOO SPICY

Cosmopolitan Shanghai is a melting pot of northern and southern food styles. “People like northern stews, but they also like soy sauce and enjoy dim sum, which is traditionally Cantonese,” says Iris Ma. The most iconic dish to come from Shanghai is shengjianbao – dumplings containing soup. “They’re very hard to make, very labourintensive, and they have to be made fresh as they can’t be left overnight,” says John Li of Dumpling Shack, one of the few places in London where you can find the Shanghai speciality. “If the dough is too weak or stretchy the soup will leak. We make a soup with chicken’s feet, pork belly, and other fatty meat, cook it down for a couple of hours, cool it, refrigerate it until it turns to jelly, then break it up and mix it into the meat filling which allows us to wrap it. As we cook the dumplings, the jelly melts back down into soup. It’s a very fatty soup, but full of flavour.” Look for: The heartiness of northern Chinese food, with the freshness of Cantonese. Try: Shenjianbao at Dumpling Shack in Spitalfields and xiaolongbao at Dumplings’ Legend in Chinatown. f


THROUGH THE LOOKING GLASS

Ready for new regions, fewer glass bottles and lower alcohol? Matt Walls has seen the future of wine, and it looks and tastes a little different

Photograph Photograph by IanbyDingle ###

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N THE 1990S, we drank Aussie chardonnay. In the 2000s, it was pinot grigio. The 2010s have been mostly pink or sparkling. So what’s next? We’ve spoken to some wine industry trendsetters to build a picture of what we might be drinking in the 2020s.

Bubbling up At the start of the 2010s, we suddenly realised we didn’t need a special occasion to drink sparkling wine. Who knows what caused it, but there’s no going back. February sees the opening of Prosecco House near Tower

Bridge, London’s first bar dedicated to the ubiquitous Italian sparkling wine. Will we look back and realise this was peak prosecco? As more and more chancers jump on the prosecco bandwagon, good quality bottles are getting harder to find; the cheapest supermarket stuff just tastes like sherbet lemons. Meanwhile, cava is waiting patiently on the bench. Prosecco is fermented in large tanks, but cava uses the more delicate champagne method, resulting in a richer flavour. It’s more reliably dry and often better value. The time is ripe for rediscovery. On the other hand, Mark Andrew MW, founder and editor of Noble Rot restaurant and magazine, puts his money on English sparkling, which he predicts “will continue to gain worldwide recognition and the best estates will increasingly come to resemble the major champagne houses in their marketing.”

New horizons Charlie Young, owner of Vinoteca wine bars, agrees England will be one of the more successful wine producing countries of the 2020s, and not just for sparkling – still wines, too. He admits they can be pricey, but predicts that quality will improve and prices will come down “as the public’s appetite for home-grown wine increases.” He also tips Greek wine, where he’s noticed “more consistently high-quality wines across different price points.” The regions that flourish and those that wilt could well be connected to climate change. Jack Green at wine importer Roberson says “I believe climate change will have a massive impact over the next ten years. We’ve had forest fires wiping out acres of vineyards in California and Spain. We’ve seen unusually late frosts wiping out 40% of French vineyards… Something has to change.” If temperatures continue to rise, the hottest wine regions could become inhospitable to vines – goodbye Barossa shiraz. Conversely, cool-climate areas will thrive, so expect to see exciting wines from the Netherlands, Luxembourg, Belgium, Poland, the Czech Republic, and northern US states like Vermont. Andrew at Noble Rot backs the emerging Chinese wine industry: “China could be the world’s biggest wine producer within ten years and will become the source of juice for a new set of global commercial wine brands.”

Wholesome alternatives A WHOLE NEW WORLD: [from top to bottom] Spanish giant Campo Viejo is backing cava to succeed; a Vagabond wine bar; luxury conglomerate LVMH has its own vineyards in China’s Yunan province; [right] Gusbourne’s Sussex vineyards

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Organic, biodynamic and natural wines represent a small but growing proportion of global wine production. Even Aldi now has permanent listings for organic pinot grigio and prosecco. Andrew thinks we might even see

some local governments legislating to make sustainable and organic methods mandatory, but also raises the spectre of genetically modified grapes. “I have a feeling they might play a big role by the end of the 2020s if climate change continues apace,” he says. Opinions on alcohol levels vary. Matt Harris, owner of Planet of the Grapes wine bars, predicts “more winemakers perfecting

CHINA COULD BE THE WORLD’S BIGGEST WINE PRODUCER WITHIN THE NEXT TEN YEARS


Château Changyu Moser XV Moser Family Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 (Ningxia, China) A balanced and lively cabernet sauvignon of real elegance. Not overworked, deliciously drinkable, remarkably successful. £29.95, Berry Bros. & Rudd

HE ALT HIE R OPT IO N S Jean-Paul Thévenet Morgon ‘Le Clachet’ 2016 (Beaujolais, France)

Nourishing red from a legendary natural winemaker. Beautifully made; good for relaxed and carefree drinking. £19, Roberson

Domaine du Landreau Jus de Raisin Pétillant NV (Loire, France)

Top chenin blanc grape juice from a serious grower – just not fermented. A real thirst-quenching non-alcoholic fizz that looks and tastes the part. £9, Red Squirrel

NEW F OR M S the art of lower-alcohol wines. Beaujolais at 10% ABV, moscato and brachetto rather than prosecco, and people falling in love with German riesling all over again.” There are dissenting voices however; Stephen Finch, managing director of Vagabond wine hangouts, predicts that “people will stop fussing over alcohol levels in wine. It’s wine, people. It has alcohol in it. If you want low ABV wine, try a Fruit Shoot. It’ll be better.”

New forms

Photograph [Gusbourne) by Charlie Clift

Lydia Worsey is wine category manager for Mitchells & Butlers, owner of mass-market restaurant and bar brands such as All Bar One and O’Neills, and she too expects to see an increase in organic, biodynamic and natural wines on lists by the 2020s. To this, she would add alcohol-free, low calorie, low sugar and “wine in keg as the serve norm.” Alternatives to glass bottles are gaining ground. Green at Roberson agrees bag-inbox, cans and plastic PET bottles are all due a resurgence, and as the quality of what’s put inside them rises, I’m sure some of these will catch on. Shipping heavy glass bottles stoppered with bits of wood halfway across the world really doesn’t feel like the future, and it’s certainly not the most eco-friendly option. And anyway, your robot butler might find corkscrews a bit fiddly. f

THE NEAR FUTURE Eight wines to drink now for a taste of the (probable) future B UB B L ING U P Gramona La Cuvée Gran Reserva Brut 2012 (Penedès, Spain)

Biodynamic. One of the greatest cava producers, this is characterful, authentic and delicious. Walks all over supermarket champagnes at this price. £23.95, Berry Bros. & Rudd

Gusbourne Brut Reserve 2013 (Sussex, England)

One of England’s finest, this has richness and depth not found in its peers. £32.95, Lea & Sandeman

NEW HOR IZ ONS Domaines Vinsmoselle Pinot Blanc 2014 (Moselle, Luxembourg)

Slightly off-dry white with subtle aromas of pear and apple. Great purity, and a refreshing mineral edge. £14.50, Vinoteca

Les Dauphins Côtes-du-Rhône Villages 2016 2.25l bag-in-box (Rhône, France)

Classic Rhône, fruity but firm, in a great vintage – and amazing value. £22.99 (£7.66 a bottle equivalent), Waitrose Cellar

Le Grappin Côtes-du-Rhône Syrah Grenache 2016 1.5l Bagnum (Rhône, France)

A magnum in an airtight bag. A crisp, refreshing Rhône blend from a talented winemaking couple from south London. £27.50 (£13.75 a bottle equivalent), Weino BiB

GUSBOURNE BRUT RESERVE 2013 IS ONE OF ENGLAND’S FINEST 69


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RELEASE THE HOUNDS Mike Gibson checks out The Dog House underneath Marylebone restaurant Bernardi’s, which continues London’s love affair with the aperitivo moment

AMANTE

The Amante is a classic Dog House drink – zesty and refreshing, it’s served long and made with Stellacello, a grapefruit liqueur made in London to an Italian recipe.

I N G REDIENTS ◆◆ 30ml Villa Zarri brandy ◆◆ 20ml Stellacello

◆◆ 25ml grapefruit Juice ◆◆ 12.5ml lime juice

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Photograph by Paul Winch-Furness

Shake all the ingredients and pour over ice in a Kinvarra goblet. Garnish with grapefruit peel.


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F I COULD sum up the way I’ve seen much of London’s cocktail scene going in the last year or so in two words, it would be these: bitter and twisted. No, I’m not talking about bartenders with a chip on their shoulders. I’m referring, of course, to London’s embrace of the aperitivo, a relentless race to the bitter side of the taste scale, taking negronis and spritzes, vermouths and amari along for the ride. In bitter cocktails – known in Italy as aperitivi, and usually consumed in the couple of hours between work finishing and a dinner reservation – the capital has found a drinks tradition informed by sociability and informality. It’s less cramming into a dusty, dark speakeasy for punchy whiskey cocktails and more stretching out underneath a spacious marble table, supping on (OK, sometimes equally punchy) bitter cocktails. The ‘twisted’ part? Well, of course, Italianinspired bars aren’t just serving the classics – they’re playing with the formula, too. The Dog House, the downstairs bar at Italian restaurant Bernardi’s, is a great example. It looks and feels Italian – the aforementioned marble tables, vintage Cinzano and Campari adverts on the walls, and a drinks list of experimental aperitivi designed to get the stomach growling. I’d advise doing what I did: grab some Parmigiano-Reggiano and balsamic glaze, a bowl of nocellara olives and maybe a couple of arancini to go with a Royal Negroni, a sbagliato twist with Dubonnet, Amer Picon, Citadelle gin and rosé prosecco. Or seek out cocktails made with ingredients you don’t recognise: Amaro del Capo, for instance, an Italian craft aperitif; Gin a la Madame, a bathtub gin made by Rome bar The Jerry Thomas Project; or Amaro London, made to an age-old Italian recipe by an Italian in Bethnal Green. And as well as playing with the aperitivi, The Dog House team are looking into blending their own vermouths and gin, too. Bitter and twisted, indeed. f

62 Seymour Street, W1H 5BN; bernardis.co.uk

Photograph by ###

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DARK STAG

It might not look Italian at first, but this drink – a twist on the espresso martini – is made with grappa-style wild blueberry liqueur and a shot of espresso ristretto.

ING REDIENTS ◆◆ 35ml Dalmore whisky ◆◆ 15ml Chambord

◆◆ 15ml Tosolini Myrtil

◆◆ Shot of ristretto coffee ◆◆ Chocolate powder (to garnish)

Shake all the ingredients together and double strain into a coupette glass. Garnish with chocolate powder and a blueberry.

Photograph by Paul Photograph Winch-Furness by ###

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TAPPESTO MAGICO

It’s a twist on a caipirinha this time – cachaça, shaken with lime, syrup and egg white for a foamy finish.

IN G R ED IEN TS ◆◆ 50ml jasmine-infused Sagatiba

cachaça

◆◆ 25ml lime juice

◆◆ 12.5ml agave syrup ◆◆ 1 egg white

◆◆ Peychaud’s Bitters (to garnish) ◆◆ Jasmine (to garnish)

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PhotographPhotograph by Etienne by Gilfillan ###

Shake everything with ice, strain and shake again without ice. Double strain into a goblet and pour in some more ice cubes to make the foam rise to the top. Garnish with the Peychaud’s Bitters and jasmine.


SPIRIT OF TURIN In its range of vermouths, iconic Italian producer Cocchi paints a clear picture of its origin through flavours typical of its spiritual home in Turin

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VEN IF YOU didn’t realise it, you’ll probably know the taste of vermouth. The deeper notes of the lip-smacking negroni you’ve sipped at a London bar? The offbeat sweet element in your manhattan? The unmistakeable taste is that of vermouth – wine fortified with herbs and botanicals to make a drink that’s unlike any other. Vermouth’s insurgence into London’s bar scene might be a relatively new

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trend, but it’s a product that’s steeped in history across Europe. Nowhere is this more evident than in Turin, the home of Vermouth di Torino and a stone’s throw from the city of Asti, where Cocchi has been making what are arguably the most iconic vermouths in Italy for 127 years. In fact, even today, the city’s pride in its foremost imbibable product culminates in thousands of people meeting daily in bars that line squares,

drinking their favourite drink over ice, with soda or in cocktails. Turin is the birthplace of vermouth, and the spiritual home of Cocchi, although the company, which was founded by Giulio Cocchi in 1891, is located in Asti, in close proximity to the Bava family – winemakers who later took over the company from the Cocchi family in the 1980s. The company set in stone the process of buying Barolo wine


PROMOTION

and adding a time-honoured recipe of botanicals, still adhered to today for the production of the elaborate after-dinner concoction Barolo Chinato. All of this might have jogged memories of that classic herbaceous, flavoursome drink, mixed with soda water over ice, that you’ve supped on during a European city break in the sun. CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: A barman pours Cocchi Rosa over ice and tonic to create a fresh spritz; Bava family vineyards; Cocchi Vermouth di Torino; the historical Cocchi distillery in Asti

But recognising it from stirred drinks in London makes total sense when you account for the meteoric resurgence of 1920s cocktail culture – as well as a trend towards lower-ABV drinks. Cocchi’s vermouths were just as highly-thought-of almost a century ago as they are now, and were a key component of spritzes, negronis and many other cocktails now regarded as classics and available to order in bars in London and around the world. A key component of the drink’s popularity is the range of products Cocchi offers: as well as its classic Vermouth di Torino – a red, or sweet, vermouth used in the negroni and manhattan, it also produces the bitter version Dopo Teatro Vermouth Amaro, as well as the aperitifs Americano Bianco and Cocchi Rosa. The range is a favourite among the bartending community across the world for its iconic range of flavours and versatility – vermouth is a rich and bitter product, enjoyed neat (Turin-style) or in cocktails such as the negroni, the manhattan, and the boulevardier, whereas aperitifs such as the Cocchi Rosa are perfect with tonic or sparkling wines, for a classic Italian spritz – so if you recognise the names, the labels or the tastes from some of your favourite bars, it’s with good reason. Turn the page to see where you can enjoy it today. ● Cocchi is available at selected retailers including Waitrose and Selfridges, and online at thewhiskyexchange.com, as well as in all good bars around London

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WHERE TO DRINK IT

Cocchi’s range of vermouths are a fixture on the cocktail lists around London. We’ve provided a guide for where to go to taste them in beautiful mixed drinks

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OCCHI’S ICONIC VERMOUTHS are now at the forefront of ingredients at some of the best bars in the world – nowhere more so than in our capital. In fact, as speakeasies, stirred drinks and, of course, the aperitivo trend pull into sharp focus in the London bar scene, Cocchi is a more familiar sight on the back-bar than ever. Whether it’s in classic cocktails or signature creations from the bars themselves, the sight of a bartender pulling a bottle of Cocchi off the rack is one that all but guarantees a delicious drink. Here are some of the London bars for whom a bottle of Cocchi’s Vermouth di Torino, Americano Bianco, Cocchi Rosa or Dopo Teatro Vermouth Amaro is a fixture. Go out and taste them for yourself, or grab some inspiration for making your own Cocchi cocktails at home, from the simple, classic Rosa and tonic – made with 60ml Cocchi rosa and 30ml tonic, over ice – to something a little more complex.

Waeska Bar, Mandrake Hotel You might have tried Cocchi Rosa, but we’re guessing you haven’t tried cherry blossom-infused Cocchi Rosa – unless you’ve been to the beautiful Waeska Bar, that is. At this Fitzrovia hotel bar, the brand’s aperitif is infused and mixed with umeshu – plum wine – and Peychaud’s bitters, before being topped with champagne. It’s a twist on a champagne cocktail with a distinctly Japanese flavour that’s unlike anything you’ll have tried Cocchi in before. 20-21 Newman Street, W1T 1PG; themandrake.com

Gong Bar, Shangri-La at The Shard If it’s sky-high views you’re after, there are few better places to get them

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than The Shard. At Gong, Cocchi is an ingredient that’s handled with the care and attention it deserves, whether it’s in a classic cocktail or a signature drink. 31 St Thomas Street, SE1 9QU; the-shard.com

Hawksmoor Spitalfields Steakhouse group Hawksmoor’s Spitalfields bar is without doubt the group’s flagship, and on the winter menu is the Johnny Appleseed cocktail, made with Wild Turkey bourbon, calvados and rosemary, with the addition of the vibrant, elegant Cocchi Americano. 157A Commercial Street, E1 6BJ; thehawksmoor.com. RIGHT: The glittering bar at Searcys, which serves Cocchi Rosa; the Cocchi and Earl Grey Tea spritz at Piccolino’s Heddon Street; a negroni with Cocchi is a fixture at top bars


PROMOTION

Photograph by ###

GRAB SOME INSPIRATION FOR YOUR OWN COCCHI COCKTAILS, LIKE THE ROSA AND TONIC, WITH 60ML COCCHI ROSA AND 30ML TONIC, SERVED OVER ICE

The Ned Members’ club The Ned, housed in a huge former bank, is a hive of new restaurants and bars, pretty much all of which are converts to the Cocchi range. Whether it’s an aperitif or a manhattan, it’s likely you’ll find it made with Cocchi. 27 Poultry, EC2R 8AJ; thened.com.

Disrepute Thought it was all about skyscrapers and hotel bars? Think again. Disrepute, a speakeasy in Kingly Court – slap-bang in the city centre – is also a Cocchi convert, using it as its go-to vermouth for a number of drinks on its eclectic menu. ● 4 Kingly Court, W1B 5PW; disrepute.co.uk. For more information: cocchi.it/en

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PICK AND MIX Iconic cognac house Hine is known for subtle, elegant spirits, but both its Rare VSOP and its new H by Hine bottlings are perfectly at home in cocktails, too

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HERE ARE SOME spirits whose reputation precedes them. Whisky is, after all, very much at home drunk in a chair next to a crackling hearth; gin perhaps better suited mixed with tonic on a sunny terrace. Cognac probably falls into the first category. Aged eaux de vie from the Cognac region in France have, over time, garnered a certain impression – steeped in rich tradition, created to be savoured, sipped slowly and cherished. All of this is true, and yet, there’s a brand that’s tearing up the rulebook even after 250 years of production. Hine is that brand. Created by

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Englishman Thomas Hine in 1763 and run by six generations of the same family on the same estate ever since, it represents the pinnacle of quality cognac. What begins with grapes grown exclusively in the iconic Grande and Petite Champagne regions of Cognac ends as one of the most highly thoughtof liquids to come from France – all at an affordable price. But Hine is also never one to be dictated to by what people think or expect from the spirit. It’s one of the few producers to have consistently released vintage cognacs, allowing drinkers to taste the subtleties of those

vintages deemed to be exceptional – and now it’s catering for cognac aficionados and casual drinkers alike. In its flagship Rare bottling (available from Waitrose for £50), you can taste

HINE IS NEVER DICTATED BY WHAT PEOPLE EXPECT FROM THE SPIRIT


PROMOTION

MAKE IT YOURSELF Want to see for yourself how beautifully Hine works in mixed drinks? Try one of these simple but effective cognac cocktail recipes.

Brandy Smash ◆◆ 50ml H by Hine ◆◆ 2 sprigs mint

◆◆ 7.5ml sugar syrup ◆◆ 15ml soda water

Metropole ◆◆ 50ml H by Hine

◆◆ 15ml dry vermouth

◆◆ 2 dashes orange bitters

◆◆ 1 dash Peychaud bitters

◆◆ 2.5ml Luxado Cherry juice

(optional)

French 75 ◆◆ 35ml Hine Rare VSOP ◆◆ 15ml lemon juice

◆◆ 20ml sugar syrup

◆◆ Top with champagne

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Hine’s Brandy Smash uses H by Hine; the brand’s estate in the Cognac region; the manhattan-style Metropole cocktail; Hine’s stag emblem, which references Thomas Hine’s British heritage

Hine as you might have come to expect it – an elegant VSOP cognac, made by blending more than 20 different eaux de vie, it’s full of delectable dried-fruit characters, aromatic and velvety on the palate. But, while it’s perfectly at home in a nosing glass, it also makes a beautiful old fashioned, or marries with sweet vermouth and a touch of cherry juice, like in Hine’s Metropole cocktail – a twist on the classic manhattan. In its H by Hine bottling (£36.75 at thewhiskyexchange.com), however, it combines the florality and subtlety you’d expect from the brand’s longeraged bottlings with bright fruit notes that marry just as well with a tonic as they do with ginger ale. You read that right – a cognac made for mixers. Of course, this isn’t to say you can’t sit back, pour a measure of H by Hine or Rare into a nosing glass to a thirdfull and sip slow. But if you want to mix with it, to treat it like a spirit made for mixing and to experiment, go ahead. Hine has never felt shackled by its lofty reputation, and neither should you... ● hinecognac.com

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TRAVEL SHOW FEBRUARY 23-2 5, 20 18, EXCE L , LON D ON

Whether you're a young family, solo traveller or have an indulgent, long-haul adventure in mind, The Telegraph Travel Show is the perfect place to start the search for your next getaway. Visitors can browse and plan with hundreds of destinations, holiday providers and cruise lines. Receive personalised, impartial travel advice from The Telegraph journalists or take part in interactive seminars and live cookery demonstrations with leading chefs and writers.

Foodism readers can claim complimentary tickets at telegraph.co.uk/travelshow

squaremile The Spice of the Caribbean

A d v a n c e d t i c k e t s o n l y. O n t h e d o o r p r i c e ÂŁ 2 2 Te r m s a n d c o n d i t i o n s a p p l y. S e e t e l e g r a p h .c o.u k /t r a v e l s h o w f o r d e t a i l s .


— PART 3 —

EXCESS “IN CINCO JOTAS’S MODEL THERE’S THE BASIS FOR A SYSTEM OF TRULY SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE” MIKE GIBSON TRAVELS TO SPAIN TO UNCOVER THE ORIGINS OF IBERICO HAM 092

086 SANTIAGO, CHILE | 092 ORIGINS: CINCO JOTAS | 100 BOTTLE SERVICE 107 THE DIGEST | 110 INSIDER | 122 THE SELECTOR


PLAYING WITH THE FORMULA: Croqueta de cerdo (pork croquettes) at Santiago fine-dining spot AmbrosĂ­a

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TRAVEL

Photograph by ###

PLATES OF MIND

Chile’s capital Santiago is balancing a wave of fine dining with a new obession with seasonal and local produce unique to the country, writes Estella Shardlow 87


DINERS CLUB: [clockwise from main] Carolina Bazán, head chef at Ambrosía; Rodolfo Guzman in the kitchen at Borago; a dish from Ambrosía; the Lastarria barrio

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ITRUS-SWEET SIPS OF pisco sour; smoke drifting from slowly roasting meat: my first taste of Santiago life is as traditional as it comes. A friend is getting married here in two days’ time and, as ever, the celebrations are charcoalfuelled. Asado, the act of gathering for a barbecue, is an institution in Chile. “There’s always an excuse for a barbecue,” says my host, Camila Astaburanga. “Honestly: in winter, in summer, in spring, we have them almost every weekend. It’s crazy.” Out in the garden, the parrilla’s coals have been smoking for eight hours before guests even arrive, slow-cooking two whole lambs splayed on wooden spikes, along with chicken, ribs and three types of steak

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– lomo (rib-eye), entrana (skirt) and filete (tenderloin). After this, a few blackened bangers on a disposable tin-foil ‘barbecue’ will never be the same again. And don’t even think about slathering the prime cuts in marinade; they’re simply sprinkled with salt and served with a side of pebre, Chile’s ubiquitous salsa-like condiment. Increasingly, though, there’s much more to Santiago’s dining scene than roast meat. A new wave of experimental fine dining has appeared in recent years, driven by chefs returning to the city after stints in Michelinstarred kitchens overseas, going hand-inhand with a stronger economy and more adventurous palates of well-travelled younger diners. This all added up to Santiago being named “The Next Great Food City” in food

THERE’S MORE THAN BARBECUE – A WAVE OF FINE DINING HAS APPEARED RECENTLY


GETTING THERE Rainbow Tours (020 7666 1266; rainbowtours.co.uk) can tailor-make trips to Chile, including a stay in Santiago, city tours and return flights from London. Luciano K’s (lucianokhotel.com) 38 rooms are priced between £138 (standard) and £318 (suite) per night based on two people sharing on a B&B basis. All rooms come with free wifi and use of all facilities including a rooftop splash pool. LATAM (latam. com) operates regular flights between London and Santiago.  For a full day city food tour of Santiago book with foodychile.com. For more information on visiting Chile go to chile.travel

Photograph (Rodolfo Guzman) by Martin Bernetti / Getty Images

magazine Saveur’s Good Taste Awards 2015 – a prediction it seems to be living up to. “The change has been pretty dramatic,” agrees Colin Bennett, who runs culinary city tours under the moniker Foody Chile. “Chile has long been a great exporter of produce, but when I arrived in 2004 the restaurant scene didn’t reflect the plentitude and quality of the ingredients. Chileans were also a bit conservative in their palate; they like to eat what they ate yesterday. Now you’re seeing a restaurant boom, with chefs celebrating Chilean produce and cuisine but giving it a modern, international spin.” Friday night at Restaurant 040, and tables are filled with well-healed Santiaguinos eager to try chef Sergio Barroso’s ten-course tasting menu of “tapas de vanguardia”. His time at the legendary El Bulli shines through in technical, multi-sensory dishes, using seasonal and regional ingredients, while subverting diners’ expectations. ‘Churros’ are in fact salty, savoury morsels of fish and parmesan; the flavour of my ice cream is carrot curry; and the ‘paella’ turns out to be sweet rice pudding with Campari-laced lemon. I’m shocked at the $40-45 price tag – plenty more inclusive than Barroso’s Spanish alma mater. The experiential, reservationsonly concept concludes with a nightcap in 040’s candlelit speakeasy-style bar, accessed by a secret lift and password. Barroso’s compadres in this new wave of foodie innovation include Carolina Bazán, who cut her teeth at Paris’ lauded Frenchie before coming home to turn family restaurant Ambrosía from traditional business lunch choice to ‘bistronomy’ hotspot. On the market-led menu you might find razor →

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STRETCHING 4,300KM, CHILE HAS A MINDBOGGLING ARRAY OF PRODUCE

MARKET FORCES: Santiago’s central market has become increasingly popular as the trend for local, seasonal and artisanal food has grown in the city

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stretches 4,300km, and encompasses deserts, vineyards and fjords, naturally has a mindboggling array of produce (and no shortage of coastline for catching sensational seafood). There’s no better place to grasp this abundance than La Vega Central market. On my visit in November, autumn colours of a different kind are in full flare: heaps of juicy ruby tomatoes; a bruise-like wash of berries and grapes; the brilliant greens of avocados and limes. Locals fill their wheelie trolleys with speckled pink potatoes and bundles of dried kelp named durvillea antartica, jostling between the overflowing stalls. For eating on the spot, there are vendors frying pumpkinstuffed sopaipillas (like large empanadas) and hole-in-the-wall cafés ladelling out stews of chicken and beans. Dried chillies and citrus fruits scent the air, before I catch the tang of coffee: it’s the Café Altura cart, known for roasting and selling some of the best brews in the city. Usually mine’s a flat white, but the cup I’m handed here is so fruity and fragrant that adding milk would be sacrilege.

Photograph by Teresa Fischer

→ clams in potato shell with fennel crumb, or egg yolk-filled herb ravioli. Boragó, the restaurant of foraging and botany-mad chef Rodolfo Guzmán, has been dubbed the “Noma of Santiago” thanks to creations such as a bonsai tree holding an edible nest of crispy mushrooms and soft-boiled quail egg, and breadsticks of sea kelp scoured from a beach an hour from the city. Guzmán trained at Spain’s two-Michelin-starred Mugaritz, and his kitchen laboratory is a hotbed for molecular experimentation – think carrot sticks injected with penicillin, which apparently take on a camembert-like taste. “What makes Chilean cuisine special is its products,” explains Lucas Diaz, executive chef at W Santiago. “Thanks to the climate and other geographical factors, we have many delicacies occurring only here. Some I’ve discovered are morrilla, little-known Chilean mushrooms available only in spring, and maqui, a wild berry from the south, long used in Chilean culture for its many health benefits.” Chile, a country that

Bennett explains that the covered market has long been viewed as a working-class shopping option, with professionals sticking to big supermarkets filled with imported goods, but this is gradually changing as the trend for local, seasonal and artisanal spreads here. What’s more, whereas Santiago’s foodie renaissance was at first more sharply focused on fine dining, it’s now becoming more accessible, and manifesting in everything from gelaterias to microbreweries. Between the colourful terraced houses of the Bellavista Quarter, we duck into Loom Bar for a tasting flight of craft beers and a rookie’s guide to brewing techniques. My favourite is the bright lemony Tübinger Hoppiness from Valdivia de Paine, a few miles south of Santiago. When lunchtime comes, I cross the river to artsy Barrio Lastarria to try one of the city’s coolest hotel bars. Perched atop an Art Deco apartment block, which was restored and reopened last year as boutique hotel Luciano K, its rooftop bar Terraza K would be worth a visit alone to ride the city’s oldest elevator – a wrought iron contraption encircled by marble stairwell. But what awaits me upstairs is just as impressive: a rainbow-tiled poolside terrace that overlooks the treetops of the neighbouring Parque Forrestal, and serves up a tempting tapas menu. Signature dishes on the menu include Chimichurri-marinated octopus and a dessert of gold-dusted chocolate eggshell filled with cocoa-rich mousse. I could swear the elevator made extra creaks of protest on my way back down. Santiago’s perfect solution for a food coma? Grab a cup of mote con huesillo from one of the many street vendors around town, and head to a shady spot on the nearby Santa Lucía hill. This traditional iced drink pairs a barley-type grain with peaches – the result is sweet, refreshing and a little bit strange. f


Soil Association are proud to support National Pizza Day On National Pizza Day celebrate organic with a slice! Organic pizza is one of the easiest ways to try organic, whether you make it at home, buy ready-made or dine in one of our Organic Served Here restaurants. Look for the logo and you can be sure it meets the highest organic standards, meaning it truly is food as it should be.

Recipe: Prosciutto di Parma Pizza Ingredients • Organic sourdough pizza dough • 60g Fiordilatte mozzarella • 80g Burrata • 90g Prosciutto di Parma • Orange-infused oil

Method To make the oil: peel 5 oranges, remove pith and blanch skins for 1 second in boiling water. Transfer to iced water to cool. Dry and blend with ½ litre of olive oil for 5 minutes, then strain with a cloth. Stretch the dough, put on a tray and cover with fiordilatte. Bake for 10/12mins at 250°C. When pizza is cooked, dress with smashed burrata, thin slices of Parma ham and a couple of drops of orange oil. Thanks to Organic Served Here award-holders Radio Alice pizzeria for sharing! Don’t fancy cooking? Visit Radio Alice in Hoxton or Clapham – deliziosa!

www.radioalicepizzeria.co.uk Proud to serve organic sourdough pizzas

Look for the Organic Served Here award when you dine out to be sure all organic ingredients on the menu have been sourced from certified organic suppliers, committed to the highest standards of animal welfare and care for the environment. Discover where to find, try and buy organic at www.soilassociation.org/organic-living


BITE-SIZED

FOODISM.CO.UK/ NEWSLETTER

ORIGINS

FAT OF THE LAND

A trip to Cinco Jotas shows how sustainable farming practices and curing techniques combine to create some of the most revered pork in Spain. By Mike Gibson

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Photograph by ###

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T

HE LIGHT IS fading, and the dehesa is silent. Sprawling oaks fade into grey sky, and our car crawls, Jurassic Park-like, on the narrow dirt road that winds through the terrain. I look out of both sides of the car, scanning for signs of life, and then, in a flash, Maria shouts, “There they are!” I turn to match her gaze, and through the early-December murk I start to pick out black shapes in the middle distance – dark grey orbs that gain form as they converge on us, growing snouts, tails and trotters. Before long there are more than 40 pigs surrounding the car. Maria gets out, and I follow, with a hint of trepidation. But I quickly realise these are no predators; they’re plump, shy Ibérico pigs. I start to laugh as they grunt and shuffle, and I get down on my haunches to look at them up close. From what I can make out in the last of the evening’s light, they’re beautiful. I’m in the south-west of Spain, having landed in Seville a few hours earlier. We’ve driven from Seville slightly north-west, watching the flat, arid landscape outside the city, only pockmarked by orange trees and olive groves, become lush with green vegetation, oaks and cork trees springing up in the fields that surround the road. We’re in Ibérico pork country, and I’ve come to producer Cinco Jotas, in the historic jamónmaking town of Jabugo, to see how the product goes from pig to ham. What becomes obvious pretty much immediately, though, is the journey of Ibérico pork starts long before these glorious greyblack Ibérico pigs are taken to be slaughtered. It starts with the dehesa.

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While there’s no direct translation, dehesa can be loosely translated as meaning ‘ecosystem’, and in many ways it is the overarching symbol of the entire process. It describes not only the particular environment that Ibérico pork, most notably jamón Ibérico de bellota, or acorn-fed Iberico ham, comes from, but all the ways in which that environment works towards sustaining both itself and the pigs that graze here. Generally speaking, the word describes hectares (one for each pig in the herd, by legal requirement for the jamón Ibérico Denominación de Origen, although the farms Cinco Jotas work with give an average of two per animal) of green grass, punctuated by large oak and cork trees, which provide the acorns that the pigs gorge on in the months leading up to their slaughter. Ibérico pigs are found in the provinces of Huelva (where we are), Extremadura, Salamanca and a handful of other regions, as well as a small part of southern Portugal, a relative stone’s throw away from Jabugo. The place is a natural larder – not just for the Ibérico pigs, but for other animals, too – cherry, fig and walnut trees are all indigenous here, and grow in abundance; and the three main trees (two types of oak, as well as the cork trees that are occasionally noticeable from bright orange flesh where their bark has been stripped) all produce acorns at slightly different times. All of these things combine to create not only the perfect environment for Ibérico pigs, but also for a hive of biodiversity and as near a perfect model for sustainable farming as you’re likely to see anywhere in the world. To understand the dehesa is to gain an indication as to why Ibérico pork such as that produced by Cinco Jotas (which can be found in speciality food shops and Spanish restaurants around London, most notably at those of the brand’s ambassador José Pizarro) is so tasty, and sold at such a premium – especially when compared to something like Serrano ham (although, in flavour terms, there is no comparison). It’s why, in celebrated chef Dan Barber’s book The Third Plate, jamón Ibérico is referred to as “the perfect expression of the land”. Maria Castro, the brand’s director of communications, is the perfect person to show us around the environments that combine to make Cinco Jotas’s celebrated jamón – the dehesa, but also the drying cellars and the town of Jabugo, which Cinco Jotas helped turn into a thriving town and one of the spiritual homes of jamón in Spain. A former biologist – who studied and lived in Seville before returning to Huelva, the province

FINDING THE CURE: [above] A cellar master carefully cuts a wafer-thin slice of jamón; [below] hams drying in Cinco Jotas’s cellars

CELEBRATED CHEF DAN BARBER REFERS TO JAMON IBERICO AS THE “PERFECT EXPRESSION OF THE LAND”


SEE IT FOR YOURSELF

Cinco Jotas

Photographs by Laura León

where Jabugo and many of the dehesas where Cinco Jotas’s pigs are raised can be found – she has both a methodical mind and a crystalclear understanding of almost every process that’s integral to the end product. From the seasonality of the dehesa, to the way exercise, space and the particular types of acorns the pigs eat convert their food to a specific combination of oleic and other acids that give the fat its rich, nutty and umamiladen flavour and complexity, she explains in scrupulous detail. She tells us about the breeding process: Cinco Jotas breeds up to eight slightly different varieties of black, 100% Ibérico pigs on its own premises, before selling them to trusted farmers, who rear them on the dehesa until they’re fully grown at 20-22 months, before buying them back. And the slaughtering process is explained, too: the pigs are used to being weighed at regular intervals throughout their lives on occasional breaks from basking, eating and

wandering through the grassy, acorn-strewn fields. The final time this happens, they hop on the conveyor at an incline, as they’re used to, but this time there’s a higher proportion of CO2 at the top. They fall gently asleep, slide down to a separate room, and are humanely slaughtered. Minimising the stress on the animals, and a quick end, means there’s no seizing up of muscles. It’s part of a process characteristic of Ibérico pork, perfected over generations, in the service of both the animal and of the product. With that, it’s time for the second half of the picture – pig to plate. In Seville, before the drive up, we sampled a panoply of pork at one of the brand’s eponymous tapas restaurants – from a mound of the brand’s signature jamón, lush fat just beginning to turn to lardo at room temperature, to prized cuts of uncured pork, cooked as carefully and scantily as kobe beef – pluma from the neck, unctuous with savoury rendered fat, and presa, from near →

If you want to get up-close and personal with the jamón maturation process, you can book a tour of Cinco Jotas’s cellars in Jabugo, as well as tasting sessions led by the brand’s cellar masters and the opportunity to shop the full range in person. cincojotas.co.uk

Hotel Convento Aracena The beautiful Hotel Convento Aracena is a perfect bolthole in the medievallooking nearby town of Aracena, which has plenty of restaurants, shops, bakeries and more. Prices from £87pppn; hotelconventoaracena.es

Finca Buenvino For a glimpse into rural Andalucian life, book a stay at Finca Buenvina. Run by Scottish expat and food obsessive Jeannie Chesterton and her family, it’s a paradise tucked away in the Sierra de Aracena National Park, which also runs cooking classes for guests, and cures its own ham, too. fincabuenvino.com

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THE PIG IDEA: [above left] A farmer calls to round up a herd of Ibérico pigs; [below] a packet of Cinco Jotas jamón

A 6-7KG LEG OF CINCO JOTAS’S JAMON IBERICO COSTS £500 → the shoulder, cooked like fillet steak and so succulent you could cut it with a fork. It’s at the bodega in Jabugo – the brand’s headquarters – where I get a crash-course in Cinco Jotas’s cured meats, though. We tour the cellars, where huge swathes of legs and shoulders hang after being buried in curing salt, and time works its magic on the very fibres of the meat and intravenous fat. A 6-7kg leg of Cinco Jotas’s jamón Ibérico de bellota will set a consumer back around £500 (for the sake of comparison, you can probably find a leg of Serrano ham, made with ‘any old pig’, often raised on feedlots, with the curing and ageing process manipulated to take a fraction of the time, for £30). And it’s not only the hectares of land and the patient, attentive process of raising them that puts on the premium – it’s the maturation process, too. Each ham takes

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years to be ready, and loses an average of 32% of its original weight during the process. In the miles of cellar tunnels and expansive drying rooms, hams are labelled up as part of private collections – each one an investment for restaurants from Seville to London, New York and Beijing. Walking around the cellars, it makes total sense that the brand is owned by Osborne – a group that owns a wealth of brandies, gins and wines as well as its self-titled port – and is the only food brand in the portfolio. From the sense of terroir (the unique characteristics the environment and climate has on the final product, a term usually reserved for the grapes in winemaking), the meticulous cellarageing, the rich history and tradition, and the whisper-quiet sense of beatification around the whole process, it has more in common with a champagne or a fine whisky than any food brand I’ve encountered before. A tasting at the bodega includes three cuts from the leg, each one different in its intensity of flavour, its composition of muscle and fat. These are followed by the brand’s other dried products – presa again, this time sweetly cured, lomo (loin) and the brand-new salchichón, a full-flavoured, cured

sausage, which has just found its way into José Pizarro’s restaurants and is now for sale at Harrods. And with that, the picture becomes whole. A journey that begins in lush green fields filled with oaks and ends in cellars carved underneath the quaint town of Jabugo is complete, leaving the delicate processes that create and maintain it intact for the next year, and the next generation. In Cinco Jotas’s model there’s the basis for a system of truly sustainable animal agriculture, intricately illustrated in a prized, luxury food product of supreme quality. While it benefits from a price point that helps preserve its tradition – and it’s certainly not an everyday product for most people – it’s nonetheless a shining example to a world increasingly dominated by monoculture and intensive farming. It’s happy pigs. It’s old oaks. It’s lush grass and sweet acorns. It’s salt and it’s time. It’s acids, muscles and fat. It’s sweet, complex flavour that’s as directly a product of its environment as you’ll find in food. It’s deliciousness, abundance, and true sustainability. It’s the past and the future. It’s Iberico pork, and there’s nothing that can match it. f cincojotas.co.uk


PROMOTION

LEARN ON THE JOB Le Cordon Bleu London’s acclaimed cooking courses allow you to mix with high-level chefs in an authentic kitchen environment while equipping you with hands-on skills

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HANGING CAREERS CAN be difficult, but it doesn’t have to be – not if the right courses and qualifications are available to help you follow your passion. If you’re looking to pursue a promising career in the culinary arts or in wine, then why not study at Le Cordon Bleu London? The teachers are world-renowned chefs and wine experts, moulding novices and foodies into skilled chefs, sommeliers and entrepreneurs. The school offers a range of programmes including the Diplôme de Cuisine, Diplôme de Pâtisserie, Grand Diplôme® (a combined nine-month course in both Cuisine and Pâtisserie), and Diploma in Wine, Gastronomy and Management. That’s as well as the Diplôme de Boulangerie and many more. Training with Le Cordon Bleu London means you will gain fundamental skills and develop your own style in state of the art facilities. During your studies, you will have the opportunity to meet and network with high-profile chefs and

professionals from the industry through an array of events at the institute. “Since graduating, I have run a Japanese and Nikkei Supper Club events in Islington, serving a ten-course tasting menu, as well as working as a food writer and chef with many food and drink brands,” says Luiz Hara, former investment bankerturned-chef and founder of The

London Foodie. “My training at Le Cordon Bleu has been instrumental in my new chosen career, giving me the necessary kills, confidence and credibility to develop in different sectors of the food industry.” Interested? Book a visit to the school or attend an open-house evening to see it all for yourself. ● cordonbleu.edu/london

SINCE GRADUATING, I’VE RUN A SUPPER CLUB SERVING A TEN-COURSE TASTING MENU 97


Photograph by (yoghurt) Yeo Valley; (baobab fruit and baobab collectors) Jason Ingram; (Natasha Clutterbuck) Louis Smith

FRUIT OF THE BOOM There’s more than meets the eye to Yeo Valley’s new yoghurt, made in partnership with a cooperative in Zimbabwe with trendy baobab

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F BAOBAB, THE main ingredient in Yeo Valley’s latest delicious yoghurt pot, is one you’re not familiar with, it’s probably for good reason. The fruit, which comes from the baobab tree, is indigenous to Africa. But the baobab’s fruit, and the powder made from it, has shot to popularity in recent years because of its healthfood properties, which range from being high in antioxidants to being rich in vitamin C, potassium, magnesium and calcium. It helps, of course, that the fruit has a light, sherbert-like taste that marries perfectly with creamy vanilla. But when you consider the story behind it, the new baobab and vanilla

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yoghurt flavour begins to make perfect sense. First off, take Yeo Valley’s dedication to supporting organic British farming and its commitment to maintaining a sustainable ethos from the ground up – an approach that means it’ll be able to keep producing delicious, nutritious milk for years to come – as well as its fearless and innovative approach to creating tasty new products. Then throw in Yeo Valley’s friends at fellow Somerset company Organic Herb Trading – which also supplies the finest quality herbs and other ingredients to companies like Neal’s Yard Remedies and Pukka tea – into the mix, and you’ve got all the essential ingredients for a

remarkable collaboration that could only lead to delicious things. Over the course of the three-year project, Organic Herb Trading went to Africa to work with a company called B’Ayoba to bring its organic baobab to the European market. B’Ayoba’s baobab is ethical, sustainable and harvested from the wild by rural communities in Zimbabwe. It’s the first company in the world to get FairWild certification for baobab, and its products are also certified to the CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: The new flavour; a baobab fruit; farmers harvest B’Ayoba’s fruit in Zimbabwe; artist Natasha Clutterbuck


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strict EU organic standards. What’s more, the collectors working with B’Ayoba receive double the Zimbabwean minimum wage. By buying its baobab products, you’re directly improving the quality of life of the collectors and their communities. But what’s on the outside of the new pots is just as important as what’s on the inside. Yeo Valley was so excited by its new collaboration that it enlisted the help of local Somerset artist Natasha Clutterbuck to create a design specifically for the new product. Natasha usually creates art using muds and pigments she finds in the nearby Mendip Hills, but for this

BAOBAB IS RICH IN HEALTH BENEFITS, WITH A SHERBET-LIKE TASTE THAT MARRIES PERFECTLY WITH VANILLA

project, she was able to draw inspiration from the flora of Zimbabwe. She used three native muds, quills and rocks from the area where the baobab trees grow and even baobab powder to make the eyecatching, unique design. Yeo Valley Baobab and Vanilla Artist’s Edition yoghurt is the result of incredible people coming together for a brilliant partnership, so it’s no surprise that the result is seriously tasty. But the new flavour is limited-edition and won’t be around for long – so make sure you try it while you can. ● For more information, go to yeovalley.co.uk/blog. Available in most major retailers for a limited time only

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DRIN K

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A TURN FOR THE BITTER: Flavoured with everything from savoury herbs to quinine, flowers, plant leaves, menthol and more, Italian bitter liqueurs are increasingly popular, in no small part due to the proclivity of Italian-inspired aperitivo bars. Many are referred to as amari, as well as aperitivi and digestivi, due to the effect of their bitterness in helping along appetite before dinner, or helping digestion afterwards. Vermouths, another classic Italian drink also popular in the rest of Europe, are similarly flavoured with herbs and botanicals, although are made from a base of wine.

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Got a hankering for something bitter? Try one of these classic Italian amari and vermouths, perfect for whetting the appetite or helping you digest: 1 PUNT E MES, Carpano, Italy. This strong, flavoursome Italian vermouth works really well in a negroni, with an almost savoury, herbaceous quality. 75cl, 16%; £11.95, thewhiskyexchange.com 2 COCCHI DOPO TEATRO VERMOUTH AMARO, Asti, Italy. This vermouth from iconic producer Cocchi (known for its ‘Americano’ fortified wine) is so-called for the tradition of drinking it as a digestif after a night at the theatre. 75cl, 16% £28.78, masterofmalt.com 3 MARTINI RISERVA SPECIALE BITTER, Turin, Italy. A bright red, bitter aperitif that challenges traditional market leader Campari. This would be great in a negroni or as the base of an americano, with soda water, ice and orange. 28.5%, 70cl; £19.75, thewhiskyexchange.com 4 CYNAR, Milan, Italy. A bittersweet liqueur with a characteristic herbaceous flavour that comes in part from the artichoke leaves used to make it. 16.5%, 70cl; £15.65, amazon.co.uk 5 FERNET-BRANCA, Milan, Italy. The most well-known in the fernet category, a name given to particularly bitter (and particularly highalcohol) digestifs, said to possess health benefits and aid digestion. 39%, 75cl; £21.95, masterofmalt.com

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BIG RED: If you’re after full bodied, big-hitting wine, you can’t go wrong with a classic Italian red. Often high in alcohol and flavour, they’re guaranteed to pack a punch, making them a reliable choice for pairing with hearty winter dinners.

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1 LA MORA BARBERA D’ASTI, Vinchio, Italy. A juicy, rich wine made with the barbera grape by producer La Mora, whose winery is based 350 metres above sea level. A solid choice from one of Italy’s best-known wine regions. 14%, 75cl; £14.75; bbr.com

2 MUSSO LANGHE NEBBIOLO 2014, Langhe, Italy. This wine is nicknamed ‘Baby Barolo’. Its location, just a stone’s throw from the iconic region, means you get a similar product at a snip of the price. 14%, 75cl; £14.60, wanderlustwine.co.uk

3 BERRY BROS & RUDD CHIANTI CLASSICO 2015, Gaiole, Italy. Another stand-out from BBR’s prized own-label collection, this quality chianti, made by winemaker Badia e Coltibuono, is a great allrounder with Italian food. 14%, 75cl; £15.50; bbr.com

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1 KEW BREWERY SNOWDROP, Kew, London, UK. A dark and rich ale made with a combination of malts. 4.5%, 330ml.

SCREAMING ALICE, Norwood, London, UK. A red ale made by the experimental, collaborative brewer. 4.8%, 330ml

2 FIVE POINTS IPA, Hackney, London, UK. East London brewer Five Points’ flagship big, hoppy, new-school pale ale. 7.1%, 330ml

4 WEIRD BEARD BLACK PERLE COFFEE MILK STOUT, Hanwell, London, UK. A stout brewed with coffee beans and milk sugar. 3.8%, 330ml

3 THE LONDON BEER FACTORY

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5 CRATE BREWERY LEMON GOSE, Hackney Wick, London, UK. A contemporary take on the German gose style beer, brewed with lemon and salt. 3.5%, 330ml See the best of London beer at craftmetropolis.co.uk

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JOIN THE CLUB

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Photograph by ###

Want the cream of the crop of London brews delivered to your door? Join the foodism Beer Club, an initiative in partnership with Craft Metropolis that’ll deliver hand-picked London beers direct to your home each month at a great price. Find out more at fdsm.co/beer


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JOIN THE CLUB FIND OUT MORE AT FDSM.CO/BEER #FOODISMBEERCLUB


WHAT’S NEW

FULL OF BEANS Caffeine lovers of the capital, unite – the London Coffee Festival is back for an eighth year from 12-15 April, and the line-up has never looked quite so good

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Friday night’s Espresso Martini Party, tastings at La Marzocco’s True Artisan Café and the return of the near-legendary Coffee Masters competition, in which some of the world’s best baristas will slug it out at the espresso machine for the prestigious title of Coffee Master. Throughout the weekend, there’ll also be Latte Art Live with Shoreditch-based Ozone Coffee Roasters, cupping sessions with The Nordic Approach and Caravan Coffee Roasters, as well as live roasting demonstrations at The Roastery by Union, and more workshops and tastings at The Lab. Basically, from bean to cup – London Coffee Festival has got you covered. f For more information and to book tickets, head to londoncoffeefestival.com

THE KEY INFO With more than 30,000 visitors throughout the weekend last year, London Coffee Festival was Europe’s biggest gathering of coffee lovers. So if you want to steal a march on some of the best-tasting brews this side of, well, anywhere, grab yourself an early bird ticket today from £14.50 for adults, or £4.50 for children. On-the-door tickets will cost £22.50 for adults and £5.50 for children, so you’ll be saving yourself enough cash for a flat white or three. For more information and to book, visit londoncoffeefestival.com

Photograph by James Bryant

PPARENTLY THE AVERAGE Brit chugs down about 12 cups of coffee a week, and if you’ve ever hung around the foodism office on a Monday morning, you’ll probably start to understand why that number is so high. Whether it’s a roasty assault on tiredness or a carefully crafted treat in a cup, coffee is undeniably the fuel that runs London. And that’s why we’re feeling pretty pumped about this year’s London Coffee Festival – Europe’s biggest gathering of coffee aficionados – which will take over the Old Truman Brewery on Brick Lane from 12-15 April. This year’s event is set to be bigger and better than ever before, and will see DJ sets at


THE DIGEST BRIGHT FUTURE Since its launch in May 2015, food, retail, design and social enterprise site Pop Brixton has become a go-to for drinking, dining and generally brilliant times, attracting local residents and visitors from further afield, too. It’s not surprising to learn, then, that a recent study published by Lambeth Council shows the project adds an additional £9m of value to Brixton’s economy each year, through support of local businesses and a commitment to social enterprise in the community. Naturally, Lambeth is keen

All the food and drink industry news you need this month

to keep the success story going, and has just announced a two-year extension to the lease, granting the temporary site residency until 2020. So you’ve got just over 700 days to get your teeth into the likes of pintxos at Donostia Social Club, award-winning pizza at Made of Dough, gorgonzola and beef heart at Smoke & Salt… You get the idea. The extension is also top news for Make Shift, the team behind Pop and newly opened sister project Peckham Levels, which intends to roll out similar sites in other parts of London in the future. 49 Station Road, SW9 8PQ; popbrixton.org

Photograph by [Quo Vadis] Greg Funnell; [Pop Brixton] Camille Mack

IN HIGH SPIRITS MATES’ PLATES

This year sees the return of Quo Vadis & Friends, a monthly event where Jeremy Lee – chef/patron of the iconic Soho restaurant – invites some of the country’s most exciting chefs (who also happen to be his mates) to take over the QV kitchen and create family-style dinners with a side order of revelry. Tommy Banks and Olia Hercules are lined up already, with more to come. Find out more at: quovadissoho.co.uk

The World’s Best Martini has been announced, and the coveted title goes to… Arbikie, a Scottish gin distilled in the Highlands using honey, locally farmed wheat and carefully selected botanicals. The stellar spirit formed the backbone of a serve created in partnership with bartender Francesco Petracci from The Gibson that really impressed the judges – the combination of Arbikie AK, sea herb vermouth, smoked liquid and lemon zest was deemed an innovative take on a classic. worldsbestmartini.co.uk

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JOIN THE CLUB

The Spread Eagle, London’s first 100% vegan pub, has opened in Hackney, and when they say vegan, they mean it – even the fixtures and fittings are plant-based and sustainably sourced. The kitchen is, of course, a crucial part of the operation, and is run by vegan street food aficionados Club Mexicana. The team behind the venue aim to keep the pub tradition alive while celebrating modern culture – we’ll raise a jackfruit taco to that. 224 Homerton High Street, E9 6AS; thespreadeaglelondon.co.uk

HONESTY BOX

It’s fair to say that after six-and-a-bit years of trading, the people at Honest Burgers know a thing or two about beef. We’ve long been fans of their juicy signature patties, but they’re about to get even better thanks to the new Honest butchery, which enables the team to chop their own meat, thus enhancing texture and flavour. Sounds pretty good to us. We’ll probably need to re-try the entire menu to make sure, though. honestburgers.co.uk

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Photograph by [Honesty Box] George Whale

FESTIVAL FEASTS It’s Sunday morning at a festival you’ve been at since Friday, you’re feeling a little… rough around the edges. You need reviving. You need sustenance. You need a Sunday roast from Hawksmoor, and if you’re at Lost Village in Lincolnshire, that’s exactly what you’ll be able to get. The first-rate food offerings at this festival don’t end there, however – Tommy Banks from the Black Swan will be curating a tribal banquet, alongside Clerkenwell Boy’s Cook for Syria dinner, while the likes of Breddos Tacos and Caravan will be providing food all weekend. Oh, and there’s a stellar line-up of music, too. 23-26 August. For more information visit lostvillagefestival.com


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UK TRAVEL

INSIDER

Cornwall excels in views and food. In Watergate Bay Hotel, Jon Hawkins finds a place that celebrates both Watergate Bay Hotel, Cornwall It’s hard to know where to look when you’re sitting in one of Watergate Bay Hotel’s four restaurants. At the grey-green swell as it froths and pounds the long sandy beach? At the dark, jagged cliffs that frame the bay and stretch out into the distance in either direction? Or at the plate of ultra-fresh, locally caught fish in front of you, grabbing your attention with an unmistakable aroma of the Cornish seaside’s finest produce? The hotel sits right on the arc of sand that gives it its name, which means wherever you are – your room, the indoor infinity pool, each of the restaurants – there’s a good chance you’ll have stellar views of the North Cornwall coastline. You could (almost) forgive them for

Keen to explore some more of the UK's tastiest places? Go to foodism.co.uk and find food and drink guides from around the country, and from further afield, too

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resting on their laurels when it comes to the food, then, but there’s no danger of that. Those four restaurants (two of which, Fifteen Cornwall and the chilled-out, sea-level Beach Hut, are a short walk from the main building) each offer something different: the loungey Living Space serves up neck-straining views of the coastline alongside classic modern-British dishes, while Zachry’s is occasion dining with a focus on local produce. The views from the latter aren’t bad either but the food’s undeniably the star turn. Our chargrilled octopus came on a pretty, zingy salad with nods to Vietnamese and Thai flavours. A whole Cornish plaice arrived dotted with small herby cubes of parmentier potato and little spears

of samphire, and dripping with nutty brown butter – it tastes as good as you’re imagining. You can’t be eating all the time (though god knows we try), so it’s good to know there’s plenty to keep you occupied in the hotel. Swim Club is where you’ll find the aforementioned pool, and it’s also home to treatment rooms and a tiny bar with a big spirits selection – both of which you might find yourself drawn to after surf lessons with the Bay’s Extreme Academy. And if you’re bringing the kids, you’ll be glad to know the hotel’s set up to make your life as easy as possible, with a kids’ zone, family suites and a big choice of kids’ food. After all, why should the grown-ups have all the fun? f

CORNWALL

Occupying most of the south-west tip of England and almost completely surrounded by coastline, Cornwall is both a tourism and foodie powerhouse – and with good reason.

◆◆ Population: 553,700 ◆◆ Area: 3,546km2 ◆◆ Key city: Truro

From £185 B&B based on two sharing. Watergate Bay, Cornwall, TR8 4AA; watergatebay.co.uk


TREVIBBAN MILL VINEYARD

FIFTEEN CORNWALL Stride across the car park from Watergate Bay Hotel and you’ll find Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen Cornwall. Set up by the chef/author/food crusader, and now run by Adam Banks, it’s as much about social responsibility as it is about innovative-but-approachable cooking. All profits go to the Cornwall Food Foundation, which offers training and opportunities for young people in need, and the menu takes its influence from both Italy and the local area. Proof, if it were needed, that food can taste good and do good at the same time. fifteencornwall.co.uk

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SHARP’S BREWERY

You don’t have to go all the way to North Cornwall for a taste of Sharp’s Brewery’s hugely popular beers, but for an insight into the people and philosophy behind the brand, you can’t beat a trip to its headquarters in Rock. Pick up a bit of knowledge and a few bottles direct from the source, including Doom Bar (the best-selling cask beer in the UK), Atlantic pale ale and its excellent Pilsner. Alternatively, check out nearby The Mariners, a pub run in partnership with celebrated local chef Nathan Outlaw. Rock, PL27 6NU; sharpsbrewery.co.uk

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Photographs by [wine] Lucy Thorman; [Sharp’s Brewery] Toby Lowe

THE EDEN PROJECT

You’ll find this organic vineyard just 15 miles north east of Watergate Bay, not far from the harbour town of Padstow. The super-modern winery, set in bucolic North Cornish countryside, is the perfect place to find out more about the burgeoning English wine scene – not to mention a great spot for glugging back a glass or more of its award-winning produce. If you’re there on a Sunday and feeling sprightly, join a two-three-hour tour of the vineyards, with a seven-glass wine tasting and light lunch. There’s also an on-site restaurant, Appleton’s at the Vineyard, run by Fifteen Cornwall alumnus Andy Appleton and his partner Lyndsey. Nr Padstow, PL27 7SE; trevibbanmill.com

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If the Eden Project doesn’t immediately strike you as a place for food lovers, perhaps you need to pay it a visit. The educational charity’s hulking biomes and expansive gardens, tucked away in the crater of a former clay pit, aren’t just pretty to look at – they’re treasure troves of information about how we interact with the living world, particularly when it comes to growing and producing food. And once you’re done educating yourself, stock up on the spectacular array of Cornish produce on sale in the centre’s shop. Bodelva, PL24 2SG; edenproject.com

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PROMOTION

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Anolon Advanced + frypan used to sauté fish, chef Lesley Waters, part of the Anolon Academy; an Anolon saucepan used to make chocolate sauce

ONE PAN SHOW Carefully crafted with inventive and resourceful home chefs in mind, the new Anolon Advanced + Umber range is much more than just your average cookware – here’s why

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INCE 1989, ANOLON cookware has been stylishly engineered to professional standards with premium materials and innovative features to meet the unique cooking preferences of the discerning home chef. By providing the cornerstones of quality, style, innovation and timeless design, Anolon engineers products to ensure your kitchen is fully equipped for you to create both culinary masterpieces and quick mid-week meals. The new Advanced + Umber range is no different. From its hard-anodised construction to its superb non-stick interior and soft Suregrip™ handle these are pans that cook evenly, clean easily and won’t let you down. But don't just take our word for it – take a look for yourself. Anolon has complemented the new product range

with a brand-new website, which houses the Anolon Academy, an interactive hub for cooks looking to take their skills up a level. As well as food-styling tips and exciting secrets, there are video masterclasses with chefs from top cookery schools like Nick Nairn, Kevin Hughes and Lesley Waters, part of the Anolon Academy, who thinks that the Advanced + Umber range will take your cooking up a level. “As a chef, cookery writer and teacher, one of the most important things for me is to always use the best ingredients – and the same goes for equipment,” says Waters. “Its not all about having a lot of gadgets but there are some essentials that you need, such as good quality knives, a good sharpener and – of course – a set of top-quality pans. “Anolon pans are worth investing in

as they will last a lifetime and never let you down. I love that you can cook on top and then transfer them to the oven, they conduct heat very evenly and work on all heat sources. “Our students love using the pans on their days with us at the cookery school and can really see the benefit of having such great quality equipment. It is a great pleasure for me to be associated with Anolon and I am very proud to be part of their team.” ● Prices for the Anolon Advanced + Umber range start at £35 for a 22cm skillet. All Anolon product ranges come with a lifetime guarantee. For more information visit anolon.co.uk, follow at @AnolonUK or buy at your nearest Lakeland store. For more information on Lesley Waters, go to lesleywaters.com

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ESSENTIAL QATAR Whether it's a stopover or a week in the Arabian sun, the Qatari capital of Doha is the perfect environment to discover vibrant culture and effortless luxury, all in one place

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HETHER YOU’RE THE kind of traveller who wants to dive deep into the culture of a new country, or you just fancy kicking back for a couple of days at the beginning or end of a longer break, Qatar has it all – and now that UK nationals can stay visa-free for 30 days, there’s never been a better time to visit. With world-leading hotels all across the country’s capital and beyond, you can easily spend your entire time in Qatar just chilling by the pool, indulging in five-star treatments from both East and West or enjoying fantastic hospitality and great food.

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One of the amazing places you can stay is the The Shangri-La, the perfect blend of Qatari and Asian hospitality, offering sophisticated cusine in seven vibrant restaurants and bars, a spa, outdoor pools and gym. The St Regis Doha, meanwhile, is a beautiful high-end option on the northern side of Doha’s Corniche. There you’ll be able to recline in a beachfront paradise, swimming in a free-form pool and eating delicious food at restaurants like Hakkasan and Gordon Ramsay. But it’s not all about luxury and relaxation – Doha is full of amazing

cultural experiences, too. No trip is complete without a trip to the Museum of Islamic Art, a stunning building that houses a collection spanning 14 centuries, where you can lose almost half a day walking around its five floors of amazing exhibits. If you want to get a more hands-on experience of Qatari culture and history, though, you should head to Souq Waqif, where you can try your hand at haggling for local spices and Arabian goods, or browse shops selling furnishings and ornaments. The souq really springs to life in the evening, so a visit on your last


PROMOTION

SPECIAL OFFER Get three nights at the Hilton Doha for £549 per person Like the sound of a trip to Qatar? Well you're in luck, because the travel experts at Southall Travel are offering a three-night stay on a bed and breakfast basis and Qatar Airways flights, from £549 per person. While you're there, you'll be staying at the Hilton Doha. For more information and to book visit southalltravel.co.uk/holidays/middleeast/qatar/doha/hilton-doha-st1.aspx

night for an authentic Arabian dinner before your onward journey is one of the best ways to see out the end of your stay. Then, after dinner, nothing beats taking to the Arabian Gulf in a traditional dhow. Once used for fishing and pearling, these iconic wooden boats were once a vital part of Qatari culture, helping pearl divers and fishermen head out intrepidly onto the Arabian Gulf in search of a prized catch. Although you won’t see them fishing the bay these days, the gorgeous boats are still the ideal way to soak up views of the Corniche and Doha’s everexpanding skyline. Of course, if you’re looking for something slightly more high-octane while you’re in the country, you should head out into the desert. Here, guided by an expert driver, you’ll bump gently across miles of rolling sand dunes in a 4x4, taking in unique sights and sensations. As well as riding the dunes, there’s a chance to see salt flats, camels and the one-of-a-kind Inland Sea – a vast saltwater creek that runs deep into the desert near the country’s southern border. Once you’ve stopped for a photo, you’ll be whisked off to indulge in an amazing Arabian meal at a traditionalstyle Bedouin camp where you’ll eat overlooking the shimmering Arabian Gulf. It really is bliss. No matter how you choose to spend your time in Qatar one thing is for sure – nowhere else balances unparalleled luxury and unique culture quite like Doha. ● For more information go to visitqatar.qa

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FOR ALL SEASONS Butlers Farmhouse Cheeses makes cheeses to suit every taste and palate. We’ve chosen one for each season, with an insider tip for the perfect beer pairing, too...

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OU MIGHT LOVE all cheeses equally, or you might have your favourites, but what’s undeniable is that no two cheeses are the same. Just ask Butlers Farmhouse Cheeses – the family-run business makes a range of diverse products, each of which is suited to a different mood and time of year. After all, there’s a reason the quattro

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stagione – or ‘Four Seasons’ pizza got its name. We’ve taken four of the brand’s cheeses, each of which lends itself perfectly to summer sun, winter nights, and everything in between – with a craft beer matched to each one.

cheese with a taste to match. This is a pale cheese that’s full of zesty flavours. THE PAIRING: For a perfect springtime match-up, pair it with Curious Brew, fermented with champagne yeast.

1. Tasty Lancashire

The newest Butlers Farmhouse Cheeses product is the indulgent Button Mill.

Lancashire means friendly people and

2. Button Mill


PROMOTION

A soft, rinded cheese that melts in the mouth, it’s just as much at home on top of a pizza as spread on a cracker. THE PAIRING: Try it with Ampersand Brew Co.’s CoCow’ Chocolate & Milk Stout, a malty, dark brew that suits that richness.

3. Kidderton Ash CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: A quattro stagioni pizza from Brick Pizza made with four unique Butlers cheeses; the craftbeer pairings; the cheeses themselves

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Named for the dinstinctive seam of ash hidden just underneath its delicously savoury rind, this is a creamy goat’s cheese that’s perfect for eating on a terrace on a hot summer’s day. THE PAIRING: Try Kidderton Ash with a Thornbridge Halcyon Imperial IPA – a beautifully refreshing combination.

4. Blacksticks Blue

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BUTLERS FARMHOUSE CHEESES MAKES A RANGE OF DIVERSE PRODUCTS, EACH SUITED TO A DIFFERENT MOOD AND TIME OF YEAR

A lively cheese that’s as vibrant in taste as its characteristic orange colour suggests, Blacksticks Blue is rich enough for the colder months but with enough pep not to put you to sleep. It’s an autumn winner in our book. THE PAIRING: The tangy flavours of Blacksticks Blue pair perfectly with Redchurch Brewery Paradise Pale Ale. ● Find out more about the range at butlerscheeses.co.uk, or follow Butlers Farmhouse Cheeses on Twitter, Facebook and Instagram at @butlerscheese

WHERE TO BUY 4

Want to try the full array of Butlers Farmhouse cheeses for yourself? Course you do. Find Button Mill in good speciality cheese shops; Blacksticks Blue can be bought from Asda, Booths, M&S, Morrisons and Sainsbury’s; Tasty Lancashire is available at Asda, Booths, M&S, Morrisons, Sainsbury’s and Tesco; and Kidderton Ash is stocked by M&S, Sainsbury’s and Tesco. Enjoy!

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AVAILABLE NATIONWIDE IN WAITROSE, MAJESTIC AND 31DOVER.COM


PROMOTION

GO YOUR OWN WAY Mexican-inspired fast-casual restaurant Chipotle is not only quick, easy and tasty – its flexible menu can be tailored to suit a range of tastes and dietary requirements, too

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HETHER IT’S A suit, a sofa or your working lunch, there’s always something satisfying about buying something that’s been designed to be just the way you like it. At Chipotle, there are an eyewatering 65,000 possible combinations from the 17 different fresh ingredients, meaning that your burrito is always to your exactly specifications. So, whether you’re vegan, gluten-free, eating with health and fitness in mind, or just plain curious, there’s no fast-casual dining experience that offers you the kind of flexibility that Chipotle does. That’s why the brand has coined the slogan ‘Eat to Your Own Beat’ – it’s a reflection of the fact that, whether you’re sitting down for lunch with some good friends, or popping by to grab a burrito on the go, your experience will always one that reflects your own unique tastes and preferences. Want to gain some menu inspiration?

A handy tool on the Chipotle website will let you know which ingredients to go for, and which to avoid, based on how you want to eat. Avoiding gluten? Head for the carnitas pork, don’t be shy on cheese and sour cream, but go for the corn tortillas over the soft flour ones.

YOUR CHIPOTLE EXPERIENCE WILL ALWAYS BE ONE THAT REFLECTS YOUR OWN UNIQUE TASTES AND PREFERENCES

Trying to maximise protein? Put meat or beans at the top of the list, add in fajita vegetables and guacamole, but go easy on the white rice and the tomato salsa. Or, why not try the limited-edition, highprotein Chicken Bowl option, approved by Men’s Health magazine. It really is that simple. Whether you’re trying to lower your fat or salt intake, cut out sugar or dairy, or even follow a paleo diet, Chipotle’s clearly marked menu choices mean you can stop worrying about what you can’t eat and focus on what you can. Or, if you’re simply an inquisitive diner who never wants to eat the same thing twice, we’ve got 65,000 reasons why you should make Chipotle your next pit-stop. Eating to your own beat has never been easier... ● Chipotle has restaurants in St Martin’s Lane, Charing Cross Road, Wardour Street, Baker Street, London Wall and Upper Street. Visit chipotle.co.uk/mealoptions to see how easy it is to Eat to Your Own Beat

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THE SELECTOR

From the best chef’s and kitchen tables in town to the finest vegan-friendly hangouts, some perfect pasta joints and the ultimate date-night destinations, we’ve got your social life sorted for the next month or so… 122

THE SELECTOR

A SEAT AT THE TABLE

Want the best seat in the house? Trust us, you won’t find better than these chef’s and kitchen tables

 1  Wright Brothers Soho 13 Kingly Street, W1B 5PW

Ever wondered what it feels like to be a lobster? Now you can find out thanks to oyster specialist Wright Brothers’ Lobster Cage at its Soho site – except this ‘cage’ involves a private table surrounded by an open kitchen rather than the, er, sea, and it’s a lot harder to get a reservation. And even if oysters aren’t your bag, you’ll find plenty on the special menus to tempt and tantalise, from fresh fish to chargrilled hanger steak. 020 7324 7731; thewrightbrothers.co.uk

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Photographs by [Wright Brothers] Toby Keane; [Hawksmoor] Piotr Kowalczyk; [Kitchen Table] Paul Winch-Furness; [Lennox Gardens Mews] Patricia Niven

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 2  Westerns Laundry

 4  Hawksmoor Borough

34 Drayton Park, N5 1PB

16 Winchester Walk, SE1 9AQ

Nope, it’s not a place to take your washing – Westerns Laundry is in fact a second restaurant from the founders of the muchloved Primeur. Not bad going for a building that used to be a laundrette, especially when you check out the chef’s table. Framed by large Victorian windows, it’s a damned good place to hoover up dishes like pork belly with cabbage and apple while having the wine list explained to you by an expert.

The 16-seater Cook’s Room at Hawksmoor’s latest site is a proper kitchen by day, when Richard Turner (the group’s executive chef ), Matt Brown (executive chef ) and Carla Henriques (executive pastry chef ) use it to cook up new ideas, but by night it becomes an events space with a menu that champions the restaurant’s Borough Market neighbours, as well as playing host to regular producerfocused evenings. Yum.

020 7700 3700; westernslaundry.com

020 7234 9940; thehawksmoor.com

 3  Dinings SW3

 5  Kitchen Table

Lennox Gardens Mews, SW3 2JH

70 Charlotte Street, W1T 4QQ

If you’re a sushi and sashimi fan, book yourself into Dinings SW3’s chef’s table – essentially a counter that’s situated right in front of the kitchen – and you’ll be in the prime position to appreciate all of that precise slicing and dicing as it happens. You’ll also be in the perfect spot to nab all the best dishes as soon as they’ve been made. How incredibly convenient.

A restaurant within a restaurant? Yep, we’ll admit we’re intrigued – especially given the reputation of James Knappett’s Michelin-starred space, where the seats are all positioned at a counter around an open kitchen. “We want people to feel like we’re cooking for them at home,” Knappett says. If we regularly cooked 12-14 courses of Michelin-starred food, it probably would.

020 7723 0666; dinings.co.uk/sw3

@bubbledogsKT; kitchentablelondon.co.uk

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 1  Club Mexicana at The Spread Eagle 224 Homerton High Street, E9 6AS

Hold on to your pork pie hats: celebrated vegan junk food joint Club Mexicana’s residency at Pamela has come to an end. But worry not, as there’s a selection of new dishes at its latest location at vegan pub The Spread Eagle, from al pastor ‘pork’ tacos to a Mexican-fried chick’n torta and burritos stuffed with beer-battered to-fish. Mmmm. The pub itself will be serving a completely vegan selection of drinks, too. @clubmexicana; clubmexicana.com

THE SELECTOR

VEG OF REASON

If Veganuary whetted your appetite for plant-based food, keep it going with everything from to-fish tacos to fried chick’n with blue cheeze sauce at these vegan joints 2

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 2  Biff’s Jack Shack

 4  Greedy Khao

Broadway Market, E8 4QJ

Various locations and dates

Biff’s vegan chicken wings taste so good you’ll struggle not to chomp them down in a few bites, but take care: hidden inside is a sugarcane ‘bone’ for you to gnaw on when you’re done. With a super-crispy coating on the wings, maple-bourbon hot sauce, blue ‘cheeze’ and a kale slaw, this is a meal you won’t forget in a hurry. Catch the team at Broadway Market on Saturdays or at its residency at Haunt in Stoke Newington.

It makes sense that the bright, fresh flavours of Thai cooking pair well with vegan food, and the brilliantly named Greedy Khao brings both together with four dishes that tick all the boxes: salty, sweet, sour, spicy and heavy on the umami. Find them at various markets around London and devour jackfruit laab, roast ‘duck’ curry and the signature red curry. Rumour has it they’ll soon be running cooking classes, too… Watch this space.

@biffsjackshack; biffsjackshack.com

@greedykhao; greedykhao.com

 3  Wildflower

 5  Temple of Seitan

95A Rye Lane, SE15 4ST

10 Morning Lane, E9 6NA

When it comes to something a touch more refined, look to one of Peckham Levels’ newest residents, Wildflower. The vegetarian and vegan canteen will have a seasonally changing menu brought to you by chef Joseph Ryan, who earned his stripes at Hoi Polloi and Salon. The weekend sees the space turn into Ghost Notes, playing some of South London’s best music.

If you’ve made the switch to plant-based eating but miss the crispy goodness of fried chicken, you can still get your fix at Mare Street’s Temple of Seitan, a vegan joint that has nailed its own seitan recipe by mixing it with water, spices and tofu. The ‘chicken’ shop offers proper comfort food in no-frills, takeaway-style surrounds – which means it’s got hangover food written all over it.

@wildflowerpeckham; wildflowerpeckham.uk

@templeofseitan; templeofseitan.co.uk

Photograph by [Wildflower] Gareth Sambidge; [Greedy Khao] Kim Burrows

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DISCOVER THE SURPRISING TWISTS OF NEW BASQUE CUISINE IN THE HEART OF BELGRAVIA

Michelin-starred Ametsa will take you on a culinary journey, pairing locally-sourced ingredients with the earthy flavours and techniques from Spain’s Basque region. To make a reservation, please email ametsa.thehalkin@comohotels.com or call +44 20 7333 1234


THE ORIGINAL EXPERTLY CRAFTED ----------------------------

PEANUT BUTTER

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OUR NUTS ARE FRESH

ROASTED HI-OLEIC PREMIUM PEANUTS no A OILS

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BEST OF THE REST

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 2  Portobello Garden Caffe

 4  Italo Deli

271 Portobello Road, W11 1LR

13 Bonnington Square, SW8 1TE

Hidden behind a clothes shop, the Portobello Garden Caffe is hard to spot, but once you’ve stumbled across it, you’ll kick yourself for not looking closer before. Brush past the flowers and produce dangling off wooden ceiling beams and settle down for ricotta and spinach cannelloni and gnocchi alla bufalina dished up behind the rainbow-tiled pass.

You know when you stumble across something so good you’re reluctant to share that little nugget of joy with anyone else? Well, Italo Deli is that kind of place. A tiny deli in Vauxhall’s Bonnington Square run by Charlie Boxer – the eldest son of British food champion Lady Arabella Boxer – it serves up generous portions of pasta sourced from South East London’s Pastificio Mansi.

020 7792 8419

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020 7450 3773; italodeli.co.uk

 3  Emilia’s Crafted Pasta Ivory House, E1W 1AT

Grab your Oyster, we’re heading to top-rated Italian kitchen Emilia’s in St Katherine Docks. It’s the place to hoover up hand-kneaded casarecce pasta doused in creamy walnut sauce, smoked salmon carbonara and béchamel bolognese served up with silky ribbons of pappardelle. 020 7481 2004; emiliaspasta.com

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 5  WOLF 110 Stoke Newington High Street, N16 7NY

From down’n’dirty burgers to hip cafés, Stoke Newington’s food offering is on the up. With it comes this laidback, bright and breezy Italian restaurant, complete with a lush living wall and a short but sweet menu of seasonal pastas. Hipster? In N16? You’re joking.

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020 7254 4141; wolf-restaurant.co.uk

THE SELECTOR

IT PASTA BE YOU

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News just in: carbs are good for you. Maybe. Time to get yourself down to these pasta restaurants, then  1  Pastaio 19 Ganton Street, W1F 7BN

Stevie Parle’s colourful new Carnaby restaurant might not be heaven, but it comes pretty damn close. It’s a paradise for fresh pasta stuffed with seasonal ingredients, made every morning in full view of the windows, so next time you find yourself strutting the streets of Soho, make a detour to catch them prepping for the day ahead, and then return for service and try to resist ordering the whole menu. @pastaiolondon; pastaio.london

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1  Vagabond Various locations

There’s nothing worse than when the conversation – or the wine – runs dry on a first date. Make sure that doesn’t happen by taking them to Vagabond, where instead of a drinks menu, the walls are lined with tasting machines. You can try hundreds of different wines by the glass at the touch of the button, and tasting notes are helpfully provided, so you can pretend to know what you’re talking about even when you definitely don’t. @vagabondwines; vagabondwines.co.uk

THE SELECTOR

LOVE SHACKS

Skip the romantic restaurant and go straight for booze-fuelled fun at these alternative date locations. Warning: beer goggles almost definitely included 2

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 2  Dans Le Noir

 4  Secret Cinema

30-31 Clerkenwell Green, EC1R 0DU

Various (secret) locations

Save yourself some time when getting ready for your next date by booking a table at Dans Le Noir. You won’t have to worry about your hair being on fleek, because you’ll be dining in the dark, served by visually impaired waiters. Warning: this date night venue might not be particularly suitable for messy eaters, unless you pack a bib. Don’t let anyone ever tell you you’re not sexy, OK?

Falling for a film buff? Secret Cinema’s immersive movie nights might just be the one for you. Each showing takes place in a different undisclosed location – think abandoned warehouses full of purposebuilt sets. You don’t know what’s showing before you get there, and food and drink is tailored to what’s on. Don’t forget to dress up (costume inspo provided in the invite) – you’ll want to look the part when you get involved.

@danslenoirldn; london.danslenoir.com

secretcinema.org

 3  Four Thieves 51 Lavender Gardens, SW11 1DL

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There’s nothing like a little friendly rivalry to get the heart racing, whether it’s pumping from excitement or intense rage when that competitive streak rears its ugly head. Your skills, your bank balance, and maybe even your relationship will be put to the test after a night at the Four Thieves’ game bar – but we’ll be damned if you don’t have a great time while you’re at it. Good luck, play nice and remember: it’s just a game… 020 7223 6927; fourthieves.pub

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 5  Bermondsey Beer Mile Bermondsey

You might not think it, but Bermondsey’s railway arches are home to a number of top-notch independent craft breweries. And on certain days these breweries transform into stripped-back, no nonsense bars and taprooms. Tick off as many of them as you can – from the zesty saisons of Partizan to the US-inspired goodness of Fourpure – and if you’re still standing at the end of it, soak it all up with grub from Maltby Street Market.

Photographs by [Dans Le Noir] Nigel Howard; [Bermondsey Beer Mile] Keaton

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DIFFERENT BY DESIGN: The crinkly outer leaves of savoy cabbages are hardier than the middle to protect the plant from the elements during chilly growing season. Despite their tough texture, you can still eat them – they’re good stuffed and slow cooked.

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WINTER WONDER: Peak season for savoys is November through to April, so now’s the time to get your vitamin fix from the highly nutritious veg.

ONE FOR ALL: As well as being packed with nutrients, fibre and calcium, savoy cabbage has tons of flavour and lends itself to all sorts of cooking, from simply stirfried to braised with bacon as a Sunday side.

Photograph by John Gaffen 2/Alamy

Savoy cabbage is in peak season, so get down to your local greengrocer for an economical, versatile flavour fix that’s bursting with vibrancy and vitamins


Foodism - 24 - London, food and drink  

Foodism Magazine - Issue 24 - The Italian issue

Foodism - 24 - London, food and drink  

Foodism Magazine - Issue 24 - The Italian issue