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INSTANT ANORAK HEAD TO HEAD JUST LANDED UK BREAKS


DEPARTURES

IN BLOOM: This may look like something you’d find down the Tate Modern, but it is in fact a photograph captured by Earth observation satellite Landsat 8 back in September. It shows a phytoplankton bloom – the effect of microalgae reproducing at an unusually rapid rate – just off Alaska’s Pribilof Islands, an archipelago in the Bering Sea, 300 miles from the mainland. Those dreamy green swirls represent unimaginable numbers of teeny-tiny marine plants.

Photograph by NASA/Landsat 8

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DEPARTURES

CLOUD ATLAS: Go on, have a guess. What is it? A piece of grotty carpet? The underside of a mushroom? To be fair, there’s no way you could casually come up with the answer: a true-colour image of the eclipse’s shadow over the clouds in the Arctic Ocean. Shot by NASA’s Terra satellite on 20 March, you can just about make out Russia’s glacier-covered Severny Island directly under these words. NASA released the image for Earth Day.

Photograph by NASA Goddard MODIS Rapid Response Team

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*Limited availability at advertised rate. Sample daily rates featured are ‘from rates’ and are subject to availability at participating hotels in Europe, Middle East and Africa for weekend arrivals until 30 June 2015. Rates will vary based on selected hotels and may include higher or lower rates than advertised based on specific travel dates selected. Featured rates are subject to change and are for stays which may begin on Friday, Saturday or Sunday nights or Thursday, Friday or Saturday in the Middle East. Each hotel has a policy addressing cancellations and/or blackout dates that may apply. Unless otherwise stated, quoted rates are per room per night and are for room only, based on double occupancy and do not include taxes, gratuities, incidental charges, resort fees or other associated costs (where applicable). Currency conversions are a guide and are correct on day of print. The Best Available Rate is a specific rate type that varies depending on time of purchase, is unrestricted, non-qualified and excludes discount or negotiated rates. For more information visit hiltonweekends.co.uk


Instant ANORAK Hungry? 69 hot dogs in ten minutes hungry? Then head to Nathan's in NYC. Also coming soon: cat-hugging, stargazing and a three-day Duck tape party

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THE NUMBER OF TELESCOPES GATHERING AT UTAH’S BRYCE CANYON FOR THE ANNUAL ASTRONOMY RANGERS STAR-GAZING SHINDIG

IS THE DAY LESS OFFICIALLY KNOWN AS HUG YOUR CAT DAY

TH

4 JUNE

THE NUMBER OF HOT DOGS EATEN IN TEN MINUTES BY THE CURRENT CHAMPION OF JUNE’S NATHAN FAMOUS HOT DOG EATING COMPETITION

69 THE NUMBER OF DAYS THE LOCALS OF AVON IN THE US CELEBRATE JUNE'S DUCK TAPE FESTIVAL. YEP, THAT DUCK TAPE

THE YEAR THE PATENT WAS ISSUED FOR THE ‘SUN MASK TOWEL’ – PLACE THE TOWEL OVER YOUR BODY AND USE THE EYE AND MOUTH SLITS TO BREATHE EASILY. ERM…

THE NUMBER OF PEOPLE EXPECTED AT TINDERBOX FESTIVAL IN ODENSE, DENMARK (26-28 JUNE)

40,000 12

3

2006 HOW MANY TIMES PARTIERS IN PUERTO RICO DUNK THEIR HEADS UNDERWATER TO CELEBRATE LA NOCHE DE SAN JUAN

7

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DEPARTURES

WEIRD world Dispatches from the frontline of the bizarre. This month: oversized radishes, living under rocks and vegan horror OAXACA, MEXICO We don’t mind radishes– they’re ok, we suppose – but in Oaxaca they absolutely love the things. Christmas Eve in the city’s a particularly good time to spot them, as vendors carve giant radishes into figurines to lure in customers. It takes more than a giant vegetable sculpture to get our attentio… oh my god, is that a 10ft carrot whittled into the shape of Ryan Gosling?

MEANS OF ESCAPE Why cross Shanghai’s Huangpu River by boat when you can take a trippy train ride instead? #18 BUND SIGHTSEEING TUNNEL IN SHANGHAI You see quite a lot of odd stuff in China – menu items that have surely been mistranslated (husband and wife lung slice?), crocodiles for sale in Walmart – but by far the most bizarre vision comes courtesy of the Bund Sightseeing Tunnel. This 10-minute jaunt turns crossing Shanghai’s Huangpu River into a journey more akin to space-travelling through time with Pete Doherty and Hunter S Thompson supplying the ‘snacks’. Opened in 2000, the underwater tunnel was originally to be a pedestrian walkway, but evidently someone high up took a lot of drugs and came up with this instead. (Disclaimer: Not really with

the drugs. Probably.) Passengers pile into automated cars with transparent walls that allow a 360-degree view of the ensuing madness: as you are whisked from the Bund over to Pudong, the tunnel lights up with trippy lasers and flashing lights, while an ominous voice – sort of like a netherworld demon – throws out enlightening phrases like “fossiled variants!” and “nascent magma!”. According to the folks behind this psychedelic exercise in baffling innocent tourists, “The story is about going from space into the core of the Earth and out again. We couldn’t show the dirty Huangpu, which has no fish.” Good job.

SETENIL DE LAS BODEGAS, SPAIN Things that live under rocks: (1) worms (2) 3,000 people in the Spanish town of Setenil de las Bodegas. Their whitewashed houses, shops and restaurants are built into the surrounding gorge; everywhere you go, there are giant slabs hanging over you. You don’t need to be a cagouled geologist to visit – it’s also famous for chorizo, jam and Andalucian wine.

MANILA, PHILIPPINES We’re always up for trying new food, but there are limits. In the Philippines, one local delicacy is called balut, which is in fact a DEVELOPING DUCK EMBRYO. The eggs are savoured for the balance of texture and flavours – the broth around the embryo is sipped from the egg, before the yolk and young chick are eaten. What’s wrong with a nice dipper and soldiers?

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DEPARTURES THINK WE’RE WRONG? HAVE YOUR SAY AT ESCAPISMMAGAZINE.COM

Head to HEAD FLORENCE, ITALY Population: 380,000

SEVILLE, SPAIN Nickname: City of the Lily

Nickname: El Sartén (the Frying Pan)

Population: 702,000

INHABITANTS

INHABITANTS

Pigeons, statues of naked men, millions and millions of tourists, American students, renaissance men (and women). 8/10

Game of Thrones fans (bits of season five were filmed there), flamenco obsessives, lovers of oranges (and marmalade). 7/10

WHAT TO SAY

WHAT NOT TO SAY

WHAT TO SAY

WHAT NOT TO SAY

"Modern buildings are overrated anyway."

"Florence is great and all that, but where are the Machine?"

"I was into Seville way before Jaime Lannister."

"Flamenco? It's basically twerking for old people."

DO

STAY

EAT & DRINK

DO

STAY

EAT & DRINK

Have a quick wander around the Uffizi gallery, then grab an Aperol spritz in the Piazza di Santo Spirito. Italians are some of the world's most dedicated fans – so coordinate a visit with a Fiorentina football match or a concert. 8/10

To really push the boat out, opt for high ceilings and swirly curtains at Hotel Helevita & Bristol. For something less extravagant try the new Garibaldi Blu, where contemporary furniture comes with frescoes. 8/10

Gusta Pizza is on a well-trodden trail nowadays, but the pizza is so good we don't care. For a local lunchtime experience share a table with some old Italian men at Mario's. Also, try a workman's lunch (aka tripe sandwich). 10/10

Seville is heavy on the museums – of the shawl, ceramic, guitar and flamenco variety. Haul yourself up the tower of the cathedral – it's the third largest in the world. The modern Metropol Parasol structure is worth a look, too. 7/10

Formerly a palace, Hotel Fontecruz Sevilla has a pool and rooftop bar with great views of the city. Oasis Hostel is a budget option in the centre, also with a rooftop pool. Trust us, you'll be needing it in the summer heat. 7/10

Lacayejera is the city's first food truck, and its burgers are hefty. Azahar Sevilla offers tapas tours – three bars with a range of dishes in each. There's some ropey tapas knocking about, so this is a good way to avoid it. 8/10

9/10

AND THE WINNER IS…

Florence – it's the pizza. OH, THE PIZZA.

7/10

HANNAH SUMMERS IS…

A MESSY BUS-NESS Let’s face it, TS Eliot probably wasn’t referring to the tedious grind of coach travel when he claimed “the journey not the arrival matters”. But even in the most mundane transport situations, it rings true. I’ve had four near death experiences in my life; the first, I’m not yet ready to talk about (it involves an inflatable kayak and rapids). The other three? Overnight bus journeys through distant lands; ‘holidays’, you could call them. I’ve careered through Colombian mountains at 80mph, while grannies have sobbed and prayed, convincing themselves, and me, that we were about to drive off a cliff and die. In Cuba The Republic of Cuba I’ve sat drenched in a is made up of more puddle of stagnant air than 4,000 islands, con water, the unit’s covering a total 42,803 square miles. temperature turned

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Tulum? Who knows, all I remember is the box of 50 squawking chickens I shared a seat with. All of which begs a pretty obvious question: why do I keep bothering? Because I'm a sucker for punishment, obviously. With each long journey I vow never to do it again – the back pain, the grim loos, the travel sickness, the turning up in completely the wrong destination (it's happened more times than I'm willing to admit). Yet there I am a few days later, standing in the queue at an outercity coach station handing over crumpled notes for a trip on another beaten-up bus. Perhaps there's just something irresistible about watching one landscape transform in a blur into an entirely different one, over and over again. But don't ask me where it is, because I won't be able to tell you. e

Illustration by Mark Boardman

THE TOURIST

so low that I thought I wouldn’t last the night (although nor did the driver – it was to keep him awake on the road, apparently). The best – or rather the worst – has to be the 30-hour journey from Venezuela to Brazil, where I spent sleepless hours watching a family of cockroaches build a nest in the hair of the woman in front of me (while the rest crawled up my trouser legs and down my top). It was almost a relief when the coach coughed up its last plume of smoke and died, ditching us the side of the road at 4am, before a gang of Venezuelan youths rifled through our bags with, er, rifles. So Elliot was clearly onto something. In all these trips I can barely recall the destination, only the hours getting there – one town, beach or mountain may as well be any other. Was it Trinidad or


Play golf in Carthage Relax in thalassotherapy in Hammamet

www.cometotunisia.co.uk

HERE I COME.


DEPARTURES

JUST

landed Photograph by [Bodrum] Cetin Ozdemir; [Trip4Real.com] © Vichaya Kiatying-Angsulee/Alamy

Many of Detroit’s skyscrapers were built during the 1920s economic boom. Fortunes have since changed; Detroit was declared bankrupt in 2013. It is now slowly recovering.

EASTERN PROMISE

RISE AND SHINE DETROIT GETS HIP Detroit’s nascent renaissance has seen artists and start-ups move in to take advantage of cheap rents and the city’s 80,000 abandoned buildings (#ruinporn is a thing, and there’s some spectacularlooking urban wreckage). Another reason to head to the birthplace of Motown and techno: Virgin Atlantic now flies there, with tickets from £609pp. virginatlantic.com

GET TRIPPY

SHORE THING

LEAD YOUR OWN TOUR

ART BY THE SEA

Fancy yourself as a travel guide? Now’s your chance. Trip4Real.com is a handy website detailing fun, insider-y day trips run by local people (because audio walking tours are a bit 1985). You can try anything from cycling in Seville to drinking port in Lisbon. The site has just launched in London, so get signed up. Pub tour, anyone?

For outdoor art, head to the island of Anglesey off the north-west coast of Wales. Here, you’ll find an exhibition of paintings depicting different Welsh landscapes, from castles to oceans and mountains. The work of artist Anthony Garratt, it’s free to see – just stroll up when you fancy. Book a beachside cottage with menaiholidays.co.uk

SWISH HOTEL HITS BODRUM In the 1990s, Bodrum was about hormones and hangovers. But times are a-changing, and the Turkish town has gone all sophisticated. Swissôtel would agree – they’re just about to open on the Aegean Coast. Design spec high, room rates low. From £106pn. swissotel.com/bodrum

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DEPARTURES

GOOD EATING TASTE OF LONDON FESTIVAL Whatever you’re doing from 1721 June, cancel it. Then slip into some loose-fitting trousers and head to Taste of London for three food-filled days of global cuisine from London’s top chefs, including Nuno Mendes and Monica Galetti. Try Vietnamese from House of Ho, Indian from Zaika and Cuban mojitos. london.tastefestivals.com

SLO-VINO-IA SEE WHAT WE DID THERE?

CHECK-INMATE AUSSIE PRISON HOSTEL Go to prison without committing a crime. Yep, the Fremantle Prison YHA (30 minutes from Perth, Western Australia) was a women’s jail until 1991. Now the UNESCO World Heritage-listed building is a hostel where you can sleep in the former cells. Wall decor includes placards detailing the crimes of former inmates. Sweet dreams. yha.com.au

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TICKLED PINK BLOW-UP FUN Nothing says “I own this beach, fools,” like cruising around on a giant inflatable flamingo – and now you can do just that, thanks to Aussie brand SunnyLife. This handsome steed comes with a neck handle and plenty of room for you to really stretch out and kick back on land or sea. Team with gold-rimmed aviator shades and cigar for maximum authority. £52; roosbeach.co.uk

JOG ON, FELLA MARATHON TASK IN GREECE As if running weren’t hard enough already, the North Face has upped the ante with its Zagori Mountain Run in western Greece (24-26 July). There’s a ‘gentle’ 10km jog, or a testing 80km Ultra. The endurance race promises epic views of the Vikos gorge, but the nearby Aristi Mountain Resort has great views too. Meet you in the spa afterwards, yeah? aristi.eu

Photograph by [bottom left] Jessica Wyld

Oenophiles, listen up. Slovenia may not be on your radar for great wine yet, but it should be. Particularly Maribor, Slovenia’s second-largest city, which sits on one of the biggest and oldest wine cellars in Europe (all 215,000 square feet of it). If you like the sound of that, Adria Airways is launching a direct flight to the city in June. From £50pp return. adria.si/en


DEPARTURES

UK BREAKS

SEAL YOUR FÊTE From something fishy in Cornwall to the best indie brews, via hanging with Tony Hawk, the UK has loads of great festivals lined up for the summer. Here are five of our favourites… Old Peculiar Crime Writing Festival, Harrogate: 16-19 July Photograph by patchdolan.com

Looking to commit the perfect crime? (Of course you’re not and neither are we.) Then get tips from the best at this North Yorkshire lit fest. Authors attending include Val McDermid and Lee Child, and there’s even a late-night quiz where you can test your knowledge. harrogateinternationalfestivals.com How: Sleuth-style accommodation essential; try Hotel du Vin, from £79 per room. hotelduvin.com

Seafood Festival, Plymouth: 26-27 September Plymouth is the first city in the world to be awarded Fish2Fork Blue City status for its sustainable fish-sourcing efforts. Bravo, Plymouth! Get involved at this fest on Barbican Harbour, with fishy dishes and A CRABBING CONTEST. visitplymouth.co.uk How: The Grosvenor is a Victorian hotel with modern style, from £75 per room. grosvenor-plymouth.com

Film Festival, Cambridge: 3-13 September

Photograph by ###

Different places you can watch films: grassy meadows, churches, floating around a river on a wooden punt… You can do all these at Cambridge Film Fest, where you’ll find award-winning film screenings, workshops, Q&As and more. cambridgefilmfestival.org.uk How: Hotel Felix is a boutique, dog-friendly option, from £215 per room. hotelfelix.co.uk

ABOVE: If you want to taste some of the best fish in the country, heading to a port isn’t a bad idea. Plymouth’s seafood festival in September is a celebration of the finest produce from Cornish seas

Craft Beer Rising, Glasgow: 2-5 September To celebrate the ever-growing number of small independent breweries, head to Glasgow for the city’s second Craft Beer Rising festival. The event serves up more than 200 international and local beers (including Fyne Ales and Williams Bros), and there’s street food and live music, too. craftbeerrising.co.uk How: Twin your stay with a chic Manhattan vibe at Dakota, from £89 per night. dakotahotels.co.uk

Nass Fest, Bath: 10-12 July For ‘raw action sports’ and ‘partyhard living’, check out Nass Fest, a gathering of world class skaters (including Tony Hawk), inliners and BMXers. It’s not just about watching: the fest also offers free-running workshops, stunt airbags and a public skate park. nassfestival.com

How: Kick back in an airbnb. airbnb.co.uk e

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IN FOCUS MANCHESTER

Rudy’s Pizza will be bringing authentic Naples-style pizza to Manchester’s Little Italy this summer. The joint is named after the owners’ dog, Rudy, a Patterdale Terrier cross.

There’s a whole lot more to Manchester than red and blue football teams and the cobbles of Coronation Street, and there’s never been a better time to explore the city’s food, drink and music scenes

BED DOWN WHERE TO STAY Manchester finally has some new places to bed down (it’s been a long time coming). Hotel Gotham (bespokehotels.com) in the business district is an opulent former bank, with interiors on the swish but funky side (zig-zag floors and leather headboards). It’s not cheap, though, so for something friendlier on the pocket try the central Motel One (motel-one. com) in Piccadilly, with 330 Britpopinspired rooms. United fans might prefer the stadium views from Hotel Football (hotelfootball.com) – there’s a rooftop five-a-side pitch and unlimited Sky Sports.

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EAT WELL THE FOOD SCENE In leafy Chorlton, local boozer the Parlour serves award-winning grub including scotch eggs and mammoth roasts. That’s just for starters: London favourites have started heading up north, led by suave and sophisticated steakmecca Hawksmoor, while Spanish favourite Iberica has opened its first restaurant outside London in the rejuvenated Spinningfields area. Meanwhile, local street food stalwart Rudy’s Pizza (@RudysPizzaMcr) will bring its Neapolitan pizza to a permanent cafe location in the city centre this summer. Over in the Northern Quarter, local favourite Solita continues to tempt with crazy specials (chicken kiev burgers) – try the new Didsbury site for a taste of local life. Mumma Schnitzel (@MummaSchnitzel) is another street food favourite, known for breaded chicken stuffed in a bouncy bun. If you prefer it dirty, newly opened Filthy Cow will indulge your (meat) fantasies with greasy, ‘well-hung’ burgers (filthyfood.co.uk).


DEPARTURES

alamy BUY??

DANCE NIGHTLIFE DIGEST

DRINK UP CAFES AND BARS

Photograph by Mark Waugh/Alamy; Jeffrey Pickthall/Alamy; Mark Leonard / Alamy

The north’s first pay-as-you go cafe has arrived in the form of Ziferblat (ziferblat.co.uk). It’s causing a bit of a stir locally, and no wonder – everything’s (sort of) free. That’s toast, teas, Wi-Fi – the only thing you pay for is your time (and that’s 5p a minute). Elsewhere, Idle Hands coffee is new on the block, with frothy cappuccino, colourful salads and generously packed sourdough sandwiches. Enough of the coffee, for alcohol your best bet is the Northern Quarter. Try Common Bar – it’s just come out of a huge (and controversial) refit that’s transformed it from a cool, grungy bar (two-a-penny in Manchester) to a light, minimalist space (aplacecalledcommon.co.uk). For a taste of the old school NQ vibe, try Marble Bar on Thomas Street: there are four rotating keg lines, backgammon, chess and, er, cheese (marblebeers.com). Out in Chorlton the Jam Street Cafe is brunch place by day, cocktail bar by night.

Manchester was the original stomping ground of the Smiths, Joy Division and Oasis, so it’s no surprise that the city’s music and clubbing scene is one of the best in the country. The Haçienda may be gone, but nowadays it’s all about Sankeys (sankeysmcr.info) and ad hoc Warehouse Project events (thewarehouseproject. com). The group’s ten-year anniversary shows coincide with Manchester International Festival on 17-18 July, with a lineup featuring Detroit techno icons Carl Craig and Mike Banks. Venuewise, try former chapel Albert Hall (alberthallmanchester.com) or Soup Kitchen in the Northern Quarter – it hosts local bands and DJs in its basement (soupkitchen.co.uk).

Drinking beer is a serious business – at the Indy Man Beer Convention, try the creations of the best independent breweries in the UK, including Red Willow from Macclesfield.

GET INVOLVED WHAT’S GOING ON

alamy BUY??

Co-ordinate your visit with one of Manchester’s pop-up events – it won’t be hard, there are loads to choose from. Beer lovers should try the Indy Man Beer Convention (8-11 October), which showcases the best beers from the city and beyond, spread over five rooms, with 80 taps (indymanbeercon. co.uk). For food, drink, art, comedy, music and more, follow @GrubMCR, @ShebeenUK and @BlackjackBeers – the trio are collaborating on a series of festivals taking place in Manchester’s abandoned railway arches. Expect a new street food vendor each month, with reggae, samba, and just about every type of music you can imagine. B.Eat Street Manchester (@BeatStreetMcr) is a weekly street food gathering in a warehouse setting, described (by them) as a food rave – works for us. For kitchen takeovers involving falafel and arepas, check out Trove’s schedule of events (@trovefoods).

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A MILLION MILES FROM ORDINARY 60 minutes from Exeter Airport The Isles of Scilly could be a world away, but you don’t need to leave the UK to enjoy them. Hop on a flight from Exeter Airport and you can touch down in paradise in just 60 minutes. Traffic, noise and deadlines all melt away as you take your seat on board a Skybus aircraft, for an experience that’s almost worth a trip on its own. With fewer than twenty other passengers for company, the flight gives you space to reflect. While you do, you’ll be treated to aerial views of Cornwall’s famous golden beaches and the rugged coastline of Land’s End. Once the Isles of Scilly appear on the horizon, it’s easy to see why they make the perfect location for a secluded escape. There are hardly any roads on this tiny collection of islands; instead you’ll find

luscious green hills, long white-sand beaches and winding coastal paths. Here you can disconnect from the noise of modern life and reconnect with loved ones, or simply take time out for yourself. Tiptoe into crystal-clear waters or wander through acres of subtropical gardens. Explore the islands by kayak or dive beneath the bays and visit their vibrant reefs. Book an excursion to go snorkelling with grey seals or plod through Scilly’s spectacular countryside on horseback. If you’re searching for something completely different, to go off the beaten track and uncover a hidden gem, the Isles of Scilly are just that – a leap outside of the ordinary, without needing to leave the UK.

Be Transported – The Isles of Scilly are just a hop, skip and jump away. FLY Escaping to the Isles of Scilly couldn’t be simpler – Skybus flights from Exeter start from £135 one way. You can also fly from Newquay (from £95) and Land’s End (from £70). Passengers can connect to Newquay and Exeter from multiple destinations including London and Manchester. SAIL The Scillonian passenger ferry sails from Penzance Harbour up to six days a week. The crossing takes 2hrs 45 minutes, which is just enough time to have something to eat and look out for dolphins from the deck. Prices start from £43 one-way.

DISCOVER MORE ABOUT THE BEAUTIFUL ISLES OF SCILLY, PLAN YOUR JOURNEY AND COMPARE FARES AT FLYTOSCILLY.CO.UK 01736 334220


DEPARTURES

SEE ARTS AND CULTURE Manchester’s hot topic this year is Home, the city’s brand new multi-arts venue. It was officially opened in May by patron Danny Boyle and should be a permanent fixture on the city scene, with theatres, galleries, bars and a five-screen cinema dedicated to new independent films (homemcr. org). Art fans should head to the Whitworth Art Gallery, which has just reopened following a £15million redevelopment that has created a home for more than 55,000 artworks (whitworth. manchester.ac.uk). Manchester International Festival (2-19 July) brings even more choice, including wonder.land, a musical with songs written by Blur’s Damon Albarn; a residency from singer-songwriter FKA Twigs; and a mind-blowing, Brooklyninspired flex dance series called FlexN (mif.co.uk)

SPEND WHERE TO SHOP

Photograph by David Levene; Ian Canham/Alamy

Manchester was once famous as a flourishing textile town, and it still has a fashion presence – men should try Lissom & Muster (lissomandmuster.com) for Lancashire-made items, including bags and brogues. The city’s also stocked with vintage shops – you’ll find the majority in the Northern Quarter, including Junk Shop (junkshop.co.uk). Crate diggers should make the pilgrimage to Kingbee Records (kingbeerecords. co.uk) in Chorlton, which houses a huge collection of vinyl, particularly from Manchester bands. In the city centre, Eastern Bloc Records, open since 1985, is a specialist shop-come-cafe for drum’n’bass, techno and jungle (easternblocrecords.com). Head south to Levenshulme Market for fashion, food and drink all in one place (levymarket.com).

NEED TO KNOW Nightly rates at Motel One Manchester-Piccadilly start from £69 per room per night; Hotel Football offers rates from £95 per night (up to £250 on match day); doubles at Hotel Gotham cost from £150 B&B per night. Book in advance for return fares with Virgin Trains from £42 (virgintrains.co.uk).

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GOODWOOD REVIVAL

11 • 12 • 13 SEPTEMBER For the latest event news follow us on

and

Admission strictly by advance ticket only • For hospitality or tickets please call: +44 (0)1243 755055 or visit

www.goodwood.com/tickets


DEPARTURES

short stay

CALIFORNIA LOVE

Berkshire may not be your go-to destination for a taste of West Coast USA, but the Vineyard has its roots in Californian wine What’s it all about?

What are the rooms like?

Wine. Not just wine, obviously – that wouldn’t be much of a hotel – but it’s kind of a big deal at the Vineyard, as you’ve probably guessed from the name. Owner Sir Peter Michael has an estate in California’s Sonoma County, and his love of the US state’s wine is reflected in the 30,000-bottlestrong (really) cellar, and a list so comprehensive it has 100 A34 wines by the glass. Keep an eye out for wine weekends and wine schools – that’s our kind of education. The Vineyard

Decor falls somewhere between country house vintage and airy, modern design, with an emphasis on comfort and understated luxe. Room names are wine-themed (of course they are), and stocked with everything you could possibly need should you choose to barricade yourself in for the weekend – including wine. Ask for a room with views of the sculpted gardens and circular pond.

What else does it have? The eponymous restaurant – helmed by Daniel Galmiche – serves inventive (and very, very pretty) modern food. Think Cornish cod with a pecorino fondue, and pressed rabbit terrine surrounded by flowers, confit baby carrots and mustard crisps. Needless to say, they won’t have any trouble finding wines to match – if you’re feeling ambitious/thirsty, try the epic California vs France ‘Judgement of Paris’ wine pairing menu. There’s a spa, too, with a pool, treatment rooms and a fitness centre.

THE VINEYARD ADDRESS STOCKCROSS, BERKSHIRE RG20 8JU PRICE FROM £247 PER ROOM B&B

A339

FROM TOP: Daniel Galmiche’s inventive modern food; suites are light, spacious and luxurious places to kick back; part of the Vineyard’s epic wine cellar

What’s not to like?

If you’re looking for edgy design or bold architectural statements, you won’t find them at Newbury Station the Vineyard. It’s not a budget option, either, but then it isn’t supposed to be – it’s relaxed, feel-good luxury for urban escapists. And if you don’t like wine, well…

What can we do nearby? Newbury and its race-course are down the road, as are plenty of rolling hills and small towns and villages like Stowcross (a few minutes’ walk away) and Hungerford. The medieval ruins of Donnington Castle – a proper top-of-a-hill, turrets and gargoyles job – are a couple of miles away, so you can live out your knights-and-maidens fantasies. For more info: the-vineyard.co.uk e

DISTANCE FROM LONDON 60 MILES NEAREST TRAIN STATION NEWBURY

The Vineyard has a 30,000-bottlestrong wine cellar, and more than 100 wines are sold by the glass FACILITIES RESTAURANT | SPA | FITNESS CENTRE | PRIVATE ART COLLECTION | CONFERENCE FACILITIES

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HOT E L OF THE MONTH

Suite Dreams

Welcome to a new kind of family holiday at Dreams Riviera Cancun Resort & Spa, a fivestar resort with fine dining, activities and sparkling seas. Book now with British Airways

IN A SS O C I ATI O N W I T H

T

here’s a reason everyone flocks to Cancun. Framed by pure, white-sand beaches and sparkling, blue seas, and with a vibrant atmosphere unlike any other, Cancun is Mexico’s Caribbean gem. Stretching along Cancun’s immaculate, azure coastline, the five-star Dreams Riviera Cancun Resort & Spa, has everything you’d expect from a luxury resort, and more. For starters, it boasts a prime beachfront location, in the heart of the glamorous Riviera Maya, while sun-soaked pools and tropical gardens abound. Indulgence and R&R come first, and with Unlimited-Luxury® you can explore the wide range of activities – including kayaking,

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snorkelling and movies on the beach – along with themed nights and beach parties. Better still, no wristbands are required. Expect world-class à la carte dining at the resort’s six no-reservations restaurants and bars, and enjoy a nightcap at the Rendezvous lobby bar, with Caribbean Sea views. For a change of scenery, you can even dine at six neighbouring hotels with the Sip, Savor & See experience. Dreams Riviera Cancun Resort & Spa takes family relaxation very seriously, and the heated kids’ pool and Mayan-themed Explorers’ Club are ideal distractions for youngsters while adults retreat to the decadent Dreams Spa by Pevonia. Dreams by name, dreams by nature.

THE RESORT BOASTS A PRIME LOCATION, RIGHT IN THE HEART OF THE GLAMOROUS RIVIERA MAYA


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How To Book Seven-night all-inclusive holidays at Dreams Riviera Cancun Resort & Spa start from just ÂŁ1,109pp. To book, and for more information, visit ba.com/dreamsriviera THE DEAL

DETAILS: Terms and conditions apply. Availability may be extremely limited. Price based on selected travel between 29 Aug and 16 Oct and includes return British Airways World Traveller flights from London Gatwick. Book by 23 June.

RESORT & SPA


EXPERIENCES 32 44 52 58 66

FESTIVALS HAITI PARIS STOCKHOLM MIAMI

SEE MORE IDEAS AT FESTIVALBABY.COM

HEART OF DARKNESS: The summer festival season is already in full swing, but how about something a little different to the usual suspects? Head to page 32 for all the inspiration you need for musical nirvana.

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PRESENTS

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Experiences

FESTIVALS

VALS Photograph by Ian Dingle

We really (really) do, and we reckon you do too. So here are a few of our favourite festivals taking place around the world this summer – some weird, all wonderful 33


TomorrowWorld is a spin-off from the loud and hedonistic TomorrowLand dance festival in the town of Boom in Belgium. That, kids, is nominative determinism for you.

For the easy-going SECRET GARDEN PARTY, UK, 23-26 JULY ARTISTS: Jungle, Kate Tempest, Roots Manuva

Looking for an excuse to slip into that sequin crop top? Yes fellas, we’re talking to you – because you’re not worth your smoke-infused chilli salt unless you rock up at the hippy Secret Garden Party donning your very best fancy dress. It’s a spectacle as much as a festival – incredible fireworks, surprises at every turn (we found a field of

sunflowers accessed through a portaloo last year), mud wrestling contests – and music, obviously. This year the secret’s out – tickets for the feel-good fest are all gone already. Time to start planning for 2016… festivalbaby.com/festivals/secret-garden-party

How: Tickets from £160. Big Green Coach offers return coach travel from £20. biggreencoach.co.uk

For the ravers TOMORROWWORLD, ATLANTA, US, 25-27 SEPTEMBER ARTISTS: Hardwell, the rest of the lineup (at the time of

FORESTED AREAS ARE THE SETTING FOR THE BEST DANCE DJS 34

writing) is TBC

TomorrowWorld has one of the best camping experiences around, in an 8,000-acre woodland site with its own shops (including a bakery), parties and experiences. This is where friendships are made and good times are had outside of the stage areas. A natural amphitheatre (with insane stage design) is the setting for the main stage, while forested areas are an atmospheric setting for the world’s best dance DJs. Locations also include Brazil and Belgium. festivalbaby.com/festivals/tomorrow-world

How: Tickets from £231. Virgin Atlantic offers return flights to Atlanta from £650. virgin-atlantic.com

FESTIVAL BABY Festival Baby is a website where music and festival lovers can find everything they need to know about the best music festivals around the world, from who’s playing to how to get there. It’s also loaded with inspiration and advice for anyone from festival virgins to veterans, plus news, interviews, and reviews of everything you’ll need on your festival travels. festivalbaby.com


Experiences

FESTIVALS

BOBBY DAZZLER

CLOCKWISE: TomorrowWorld in Atlanta, US; taking the party into the sea at Soundwave Croatia; Southern Soul in Montenegro

it comes to festivals (it hosts a LOT). The appeal? It’s small (around 3,000 people) and made for dancing and swimming in the Croatian sun. Soundwave has a beach stage, openair nightclub and plenty of boat parties, including one with a full brass band. Club nights and promoters from all over Europe come together to create a chilled out, cool little festival where you’re guaranteed to make friends. Even if you’re an idiot.

We’ve all been there – fumbling around the tent looking for, er, a bottle opener. Solve all those problems with the BioLite SiteLight. The compact orange blob conceals two lights, each attached to a length of cable so you can string them between tents and illuminate your camp. Probably best avoided if you don’t want to attract other people (or moths). £30 cotswoldoutdoor.com

the sun, before things go a bit more nutty in the late evening. festivalbaby.com/festivals/balaton-sound

How: Tickets from £110. Ryanair offers return flights from £55. ryanair.com

For the culture-vultures SHAMBHALA, CANADA, 7-10 AUGUST ARTISTS: A. Skillz, Bonobo, Jazzy Jeff, Kygo

festivalbaby.com/festivals/soundwave-croatia

How: Tickets from £125. Ryanair offers return flights to Zadar from £80. ryanair.com

Photograph by (top left) Jeff Kravitz/FilmMagic/Getty, (right Soundwave image) http://www.facebook.com/danmedhurstphotography

For the beach-bums

SUNSPLASH, TURKEY, 21-28 JUNE

SOUTHERN SOUL, MONTENEGRO, 25-28 JUNE

ARTISTS: Kyodai, Andrew Ashong

ARTISTS: Gilles Peterson, Detroit Swindle

Turkey’s getting in on the boutique festival act with Sunsplash, based on the whitesand beaches of Bodrum. Its home in Aspat Bay is backed by stunning hillsides and scenic old ruins, has a sparkling blue sea and comes with a decent line up of dance and electronic artists from all over Europe. There’s also a load of workshops covering wellness, music production and graffiti – some even based in a Byzantine bathhouse.

If you like your festivals in slightly more idyllic surroundings, you could do a lot worse than Southern Soul – like, a lot worse. Imagine a festival in a Kwik Fit or something. No, if it's beaches and sun that you want, this one’s a safe bet. Based on the Adriatic Coast, Southern Soul caters for those with musical tastes further removed from the whole BOOM BOOM BOOM end of the spectrum. With Southern Sun, you can choose from a wider selection of slightly calmer music (not too calm, mind) that hovers around the jazz and soul areas.

festivalbaby.com/festivals/sunsplash

How: Tickets from £80. Easyjet offers return flights to Bodrum from £150. easyjet.com

festivalbaby.com/festivals/southern-soul

BALATON SOUND, HUNGARY, 9-12 JULY

How: Tickets from £69. Ryanair offers return flights to Podgorica from £80. ryanair.com

ARTISTS: Tiësto, Faithless

SOUNDWAVE, CROATIA, 6-10 AUGUST ARTISTS: Jay Electronica, Mr Scruff, Craig Charles

The Garden in Tisno, Croatia isn’t exactly monogamous when

Lake Balaton is a freshwater lake in Hungary, and the largest in central Europe. The southern shore has been the site of Balaton Sound since the first fest in 2007

The cream of the electronic music crop descends upon Lake Balaton each year, to provide the best musical backdrop to all the water-based shenanigans. Balaton Sound transforms a little village called Zamardi into a big party arena, with around 10,000 dance-heads going mental on the beach (and beyond) for four days. It's the perfect setting for a chilled-out day in

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festivalbaby.com/festivals/shambhala

How: Tickets from £190. Air Transat offers return flights to Vancouver from £600. airtransat.co.uk. Connect with a flight to Trail with Pacific Coastal from £150. pacificcoastal.com. FLOW, FINLAND, 14-16 AUGUST GENRE: Florence + The Machine, Alt-J, Pet Shop Boys, Flying Lotus

SQUARE EYE You’ll need to conserve your phone battery for when you lose your friends, so instead take pictures on this nifty little block. The new Polaroid Cube is just 35mm by 35mm, but the teeny size doesn’t compromise on picture and video quality – it captures them at 1080p with a 124° wide-angle lens. It’ll film in the dark with an LED light, and it’s shockproof and weatherproof, too. Unlike us. £89.99 polaroid.com/cube

Despite its unglamorous surroundings, Flow Festival turns Helsinki’s defunct Suvilahti power plant into an atmospheric venue for a weekend of embracing not just music, but local culture, urban space and visual arts. With an emphasis on food, you’ll get far better options than a floppy burger and beer at Flow. Highlights include high-profile local restaurants, traditional Japanese cuisine and even an on-site bakery, making Flow a dream gig for foodies. And any festival that features both Flying Lotus and the Pet Shop Boys is ok by us. festivalbaby.com/festivals/flow-festival

How: Tickets from £120. Norwegian offers return flights to Helsinki from £100. norwegian.com

YOU’RE AS LIKELY TO FIND A POLICE VAN TURNED INTO A MOBILE RAVE UNIT AS A 1920S SUPPER CLUB

Photograph by (above) Jussi Hellsten; (right) Sandor Csudai; (far right) Jan Sandvik Editorial / Alamy

Having kids needn’t spell the end of your festival days – Shambhala, in British Columbia, Canada, is actively for families just as much as ravers, with kids getting their own fields of activities, workshops, play areas and even overnight camping adventures. Refreshingly uncorporate, the festival has built an impressive word-ofmouth reputation for its cool, hippy chic. It’s got plenty of art installations, cabaret, theatre, poetry, debates and forums, all laid

out in pretty woodland (which plays host to amazing AV performances, art and all manner of weirdness). There’s a big emphasis on dressing up and creating a fun environment – you’re equally likely to find a police van turned into a mobile rave unit as a 1920s supper club.


Experiences

Flow festival in Finland is as much about the food as the music. Each year around 30 of Helsinki’s best cafes attend, including a beer bar crammed with special drafts

CLOCKWISE: Flow festival in Helsinki; the festival’s held in a former power station; Balaton Sound in Hungary is EDM heaven

FESTIVALS


Experiences

FESTIVALS

GET MORE GEAR AT FESTIVALBABY.COM

GLAMPING NEAR GLASTONBURY If you’ve nabbed Glasto tickets but can’t handle the (likely) rain and mud, head to escacapismmagazine.com for a chance to win glamping accommodation with Pennard Orchard. Just 10 minutes from the site, the cosy tipis come with beds, warm showers, clean loos and power sockets. YES.

For the laid-back lovers EDGE OF THE LAKE, SWITZERLAND, 26-28 JUNE ARTISTS: Bonobo, La Rochelle Band

The full name of the festival is Weekend at the Edge of the Lake, or Week end au Bord de l'Eau if you're French. Or Swiss. It's not as mental as your Creamfields or your Downloads, but sometimes what you really need is a nice relaxing time down by some nice water while some nice bands play some nice music. And that's what Edge of the Lake will do for you. It's also fully sustainable and ecofriendly, which is nice, too.

ABOVE: It’s not all party party party at Festival No 6 in Wales. The lineup includes talks from writer Irvine Welsh and Dom Joly

pair-ups between different acts add a depth you’ll rarely see anywhere else. Alongside the music, you’ll find a rich cultural programme spanning art, comedy, poetry and beyond. As its fans will tell you – six is the magic number.

place in the sometimes eerily beautiful space between the Rhodope mountains in Bulgaria, which provides the perfect setting to tune out of everyday life and plug into free-spirited debauchery – with a pretty epic soundtrack to go along with it.

festivalbaby.com/festivals/festival-no-6

festivalbaby.com/festivals/

How: Tickets from £170. Virgin Trains is offering discounted fares to Bangor from the whole of the UK; return fares from London from £45. virgintrains.co.uk

MEADOWS IN THE MOUNTAINS, BULGARIA, 12-15 JUNE

How: Tickets from £30. EasyJet offers return flights to Zurich from £75. easyjet.com

ARTISTS: Al Dobson Jr, the Turbans,

ARTISTS: Grace Jones, James Bay, DJ Harvey, Mark Ronson, Belle & Sebastian

The mysterious name doesn’t give much away, which is pretty appropriate for a festival that’s become a word-of-mouth hidden gem in double-quick time. Held in the surreal, Italianate-style village of Portmeirion in Wales, Number 6 is loaded with as many quirks as its location, with the added benefit of an eclectic lineup. The unusual stage settings and intriguing

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How: Tickets from £150. Ryanair offers return flights to Plovdiv from £80. ryanair.com

For the open-minded

festivalbaby.com/festivals/edge-of-the-lake

FESTIVAL NO 6, WALES, 3-6 SEPTEMBER

meadows-in-the-mountains

Quantic, Mo Kolours

The community-based festival ethos born at Burning Man has spread far and wide, and few places offer such an offbeat slice of the collaborative action as Meadows in the Mountains. With unusual acts, all manner of Portmeirion’s design odd shenanigans was based on the going on and cheap quaint Italian prices once you’re town of Portofino. The central plazas there, it’s got bags and romantic of unconventional architecture have been built to evoke a appeal. As the name suggests it takes Mediterranean vibe

IN-TENTS Big enough for you and a friend (or two, if you’re skinny), the Ringmaster from Field Candy is 100% waterproof and comes with lightweight poles, making the lug from the car park a doddle. It’s easy to pitch, and the porch area at the front makes a decent booze- or backpack-storage area. Mud looks good with a splash of colour. £195. fieldcandy.com


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Experiences

FESTIVALS

LEGENDARY ACTS PERFORM TO DIEHARD ITALIAN FANS Oh, and it’s held right next to a theme park (which you can make use of). Beat that. festivalbaby.com/festivals/lowlands

How: Tickets from £135. Easyjet offers return flights to Amsterdam from £55. easyjet.com

For the city-dwellers CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Electric Picnic in Ireland; Ypsigrock Festival in Italy; Lowlands in Holland has a laid-back vibe

ELECTRIC PICNIC, IRELAND, 4-6 SEPTEMBER ARTISTS: Blur, Jessie Ware, the War on Drugs

It would be easy to characterise Electric Picnic by its lineup, which is as diverse as it is rich in big-name talent. That, though, would be to underestimate the breadth of this festival on the grounds of Stradbally Hall in County Laois. Alongside the music you’ll find comedy, spoken

word and creative goings-on for partylovers young and old. There’s even a trailer park, where decorated caravans dispense everything from beers and entertainment to advice on growing facial hair. festivalbaby.com/festivals/electric-picnic How:

Tickets from £160. Aer Lingus offers return flights to Dublin from £50. aerlingus.com LOWLANDS, HOLLAND, 21-23 AUGUST

LUCCA SUMMER FESTIVAL, ITALY, 1-28 JULY ARTISTS: Mark Knopfler, Alabama Shakes, Bob Dylan, Billy Idol, Lenny Kravitz

It’s not your regular muddy festival with thronging crowds; Lucca is way more sophisticated, with a different act performing in Piazza Napoleone each night. It’s a pretty beautiful setting, too. Lucca is an ancient walled city in Tuscany, so the small stage is surrounded by trees and historic buildings – you’ll see legendary acts give some of their most intimate performances for die hard Italian fans. festivalbaby.com/festivals/Lucca-summer-festival

How: Tickets from £40. Easyjet offer return flights to Pisa from £60. easyjet.com

ARTISTS: Hot Chip, the Chemical Brothers, PHOTOGRAPH by (top left) Jamie Tanner; (Lowlands) Bart Heemskerk

Paolo Nutini, Rudimental

RUK ON! Continue the party at the campsite with this solar-powered speaker. The Soulra Rugged Rukus connects to your mobile with Bluetooth, allowing you to play your tunes all night long (no Lionel Richie though, please). When the sun’s down it’ll last 8 hours, and even charges your phone. It’s drop- and splash-proof, too. £89.99 amazon.co.uk

Holland has a lot of decent dance festivals – like Pacha Festival and Amsterdam Open Air, but if you’re not into raving until 7am, maybe Lowlands is the one for you. It’s the type of festival that has something for everyone and caters to all tastes. As such, it attracts a wide range of people from all over the world, although the majority of the crowd are Dutch. Not that it matters – the Dutch can speak English better than most English people, including (ok, especially) us. Aside from the music, you've got a nice little selection of alternative entertainment, like film, art, comedy, theatre and watching that man who can’t tie his shoelaces up over there.

YPSIGROCK, ITALY, 6-9 AUGUST ARTISTS: Kate Tempest, the Sonics, Battles

Ypsigrock is one of the most unusual festival experiences in Europe. Not only is it set inside the impressive Medieval town of Castelbuono, but the organisers only ever invite bands to play the festival once, meaning that every year there’s a fresh lineup guaranteed to keep you entertained. You can stand in the town’s Piazza Costello while the likes of Metronomy, East India Youth and the Fat White Family belt out crowd-pleasers in the shadow of the

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Experiences

picturesque (and very old) castle. Try not to break it, yeah? festivalbaby.com/festivals/ypsigrock

How: Tickets from £50. Easyjet offers return flights to Palermo from £90.

FESTIVALS

plugged in to the Austin music scene will be hard pushed to recognise. festivalbaby.com/festivals/austin-city-limits

How: Tickets from £159. British Airways offers return flights to Austin from £600. britishairways.com

easyjet.com

For the rockers AUSTIN CITY LIMITS, US, 2-4 & 9-11 OCTOBER

LOUD PARK, JAPAN, 10-11 OCTOBER

ARTISTS: Foo Fighters, Hoozier, Drake

ARTISTS: Slayer, Anthrax, Carcas

Held over two weekends at the city’s 46acre Zilker Park, ACL offers its supersized vision of the perfect festival, with more than 130 acts, a culinary festival-within-a-festival showcasing the best of the Austin food scene (Austin Eats), artisan markets and a dedicated schedule for kids (Austin Kiddie Limits, obviously). The lineup is as broad as it is big, running the full spectrum from legendary old-timers to up-and-coming acts and obscure names even those particularly well

Had enough of soppy rock bands singing about love and Austin is regarded as doing weird things the world’s capital like ‘getting into of live music, with the charts’? Then over 100 venues staging live music head along to Loud each night. It’s also Park, which is sort famous for Southern of what it says on and Mexican cuisine and old-style diners. the tin, in that it’s definitely loud, but it’s definitely not in a park. It’s in a big arena (the same one they use for WWE Wrestling, FYI) instead. But just because it’s not in a field, doesn’t mean it’s not a festival – it’s full of the biggest bands in metal, and you’ll be slap-bang in the middle of a giant mosh pit full of other devil horn-throwing nutcases. What more could you want?

GROOVEFEST IS HELD IN A LUXURY RESORT IN THE CARIBBEAN

FROM TOP: Groovefest is held in a luxe resort in the Dominican Republic; Austin City Limits in Texas combines food, music and culture

6-13 SEPTEMBER

to Groovefest, then. Why? Because it’s held at a five-star resort in the Caribbean. Bigname DJs, pool parties, beach parties, boat parties, villa parties, even golf buggies to cart you around the resort to the next party – what more could you want? Free drinks and food for the duration? Well, that’s all included too. So are personal chefs (if you can afford it) while we’re at it. This is festivaling for the luxury connoisseur. e

ARTISTS: Art Department, Doorly, Skream

festivalbaby.com/festivals/groovefest

festivalbaby.com/festivals/loud-park

How: Tickets from £78. British Airways offers return flights to Tokyo from £800. britishairways.com

For the too-posh-to-glampers GROOVEFEST, DOMINICAN REPUBLIC,

Glastonbury a bit muddy for you? Burning Man a bit dusty? You’re probably better off heading

How: Three nights from £570. Thomson Airways offers return flights from £540. flights.thomson.co.uk

If you get your festival buzz from a cup of coffee, you’ll need a decent stove. The Primus Lite+ is a compact all-in-one that’ll prepare your dose of caffeine in a matter of minutes; simply attach the coffee press for an instant camping cafetiere. And that’s not all! After brewing your drink, you can use the Lite+ as a stove – the 100 gram gas canister lasts for 59 minutes (that’s 20 packs’ worth of Super Noodles). £100. primus.eu

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Photograph (left) by Nick Simonite / Red Bull Content Pool

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THE FUTUR BRIGH 44


Experiences

It’s been five years since the earthquake that devastated Haiti, but a compelling country full of colour, chaos and community spirit is rising out of the rubble. Laura Millar finds a destination ripe for discovery

Photograph by Art Directors & TRIP / Alamy

RE’S HT

HAITI

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A

t first I thought it was a truck rumbling past the office,” says JeanCyril Pressoir, my thirtysomething Haitian tour guide, describing the moments leading up to one of the world’s most destructive natural disasters, which occurred on the afternoon of Tuesday 12 January 2010. “Then it got louder and louder,” he continues, “until I realised, ‘Yeah, this isn’t a truck.’” The resultant earthquake, which had a magnitude of 7.0, is thought to have claimed the lives of between 100,000 and 300,000 people (the exact number is disputed) and affected most of the population of around 10 million. Haiti, a country which had already, by anyone’s reckoning, suffered more than its fair share of bad luck – with a turbulent history, decades of bad government and even worse debts – was brought to its knees. In the intervening years, foreign aid has flooded in, and well-meaning NGOs have flocked to the small country

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situated on the western side of the island of Hispaniola, which it shares with the Dominican Republic. There has been extensive rebuilding, and locals are once again regaining their sense of independence – even viewing what happened as a new beginning for Haiti, paving the way for it to become a vibrant tourist destination again (as it was in the 1970s and 1980s, when it played host to jetset figures such as Mick Jagger, Marlon Brando and Jackie Onassis, lured by its tropical, palm-fringed beaches, plentiful rum and mystical voodoo culture). Before heading here as part of a new tour run by G Adventures, I wasn’t aware of much more than the negative headlines, which over recent years have trumpeted poverty (from being one of the world’s richest colonies, exporting coffee and sugar in the 18th century, it’s become one of the world’s poorest countries), disease (Haiti suffered from a cholera outbreak shortly after the earthquake), and political and financial instability (former presidents include controversial, corrupt figures such as feared dictator ‘Papa Doc’ Duvalier). I had no idea what to expect. Sitting in the departure lounge at Miami International Airport, I scan my fellow travellers for the flight to Port-au-Prince, the capital, just 90 minutes away. Most are locals, returning from visiting relatives who left to find better-paid work in the US; but there are also knots of Americans in charity T-shirts, or brandishing Bibles. “Do-gooders and evangelists,” Jean-Cyril will say laughingly later on, fed up, like the majority of educated Haitians, of being seen as ‘ignorant natives’ who need converting from their ‘primitive’ spiritual beliefs (voodoo – or ‘vodou’, as it’s known in Haiti – is the national Bill Clinton religion, alongside estimated there Catholicism). There were 10,000 NGOs in Haiti even before the are thought to be earthquake. They 11,000 NGOs still have been widely based in the country, derided for failing but the current to make a difference in the country. government – while grateful for the help – is keen for its people to start standing on their own two feet. Jean-Cyril, who is fantastically frank and outspoken about the pros and cons of his homeland, agrees that self-sufficiency is the way forward, and that developing tourism is one of the most likely ways for the country to sustain itself. “We want trade, not aid,” he says, bluntly. Investment is being poured into tourism; new hotels are being built, and the number

CLOCKWISE: The brightly painted houses of Haiti’s capital, Port-au-Prince; Citadelle Laferrière, in the hills of the north coast; colourful scenes from the city streets

of weekly flights from countries such as Canada and the US is being increased. But what will the intrepid traveller find to excite here? Well, my first impressions are of a lot of noise, and a lot of colour. Voluble Haitians speaking Creole (French is the second language) throng the streets, selling fruit and vegetables, homemade rum (at 70% proof, you sample it at your peril…), clothes, toiletries and souvenirs. Women saunter past, carrying huge, heavy-looking bundles on their heads, while men loiter under the shade of trees, playing dominoes.


Experiences

HAITI

LURIDLY DECORATED VANS ARE PAINTED WITH RELIGIOUS SAYINGS, SYMBOLS, OR IMAGES OF 50 CENT

Photograph by Jan Sochor / Alamy; BROKER / Alamy; Jan A. Csernoch / Alamy

The roads, while potholed and dusty, take us past a profusion of pastel-coloured shops (every third one appears to be a brightly painted lottery stand), while every fourth vehicle is a luridly decorated tap-tap, the most common form of public transport here – essentially a large truck or van painted with religious sayings, symbols, or even images of 50 Cent, which cram in as many passengers as possible. So far, so Caribbean. Downtown Port-au-Prince is the buzzing historical epicentre, where you’ll start to discover the country’s troubled past. The

French colonised it in the late 17th century, after it was discovered by the Spanish (Christopher Columbus came ashore in 1492 and named it La Isla Española). By exploiting its natural resources of coffee and sugar cane, Sweet Micky isn’t the French made the only musician millions – but at the to aspire to Haitian expense of slaves, politics. Fugee Wyclef Jean tried to whom they brought run for president in over from Africa and 2010 but didn’t meet treated abysmally for Haiti’s five-year residency rules. the next 100 years.

By 1799, however, the slaves had rebelled, under the leadership of a man called Toussaint Louverture, hailed as the founder of independence, which was eventually declared in Haiti in 1804. In the city’s modern, marbled Musée du Panthéon National Haïtien (MUPANAH) are many artefacts that chart this time, including an ugly set of chains and manacles typically worn by slaves, and the bell rung by Louverture to declare the abolition of slavery. A few streets away, past the National Palace where the President is based (currently Michel Martelly, a former crooner better known as ‘Sweet Micky’, elected in 2011 – a bit like if Val Doonican were at Number 10), is the Square of the Heroes of Independence, which features a striking and powerful monument, known as Statue of the Unknown Maroon (a ‘maroon’ was a runaway slave). With a broken chain at the ankle and blowing a rallying call into a conch shell, he’s an enduring symbol of the country’s resistance. Beyond this, souvenir sellers line the streets, while more enterprising merchants come up directly and entreat you to buy brightly coloured canvases depicting daily life and beach scenes. Art and colour are mainstays of Haiti, and Port-au-

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Experiences

HAITI

ABOVE: Port-au-Prince is home to several artistic communities that are influenced by Haiti’s politics, turbulent history and voodoo

Prince is home to several artisanal neighbourhoods; from the metalworkers of the suburb of Croix-des-Bouquets (birthplace of Wyclef Jean of Fugees), which rings out the incessant noise of oil drums being hammered flat and then chiselled into intricate designs and patterns, to the collective known as Atis Rezistans (‘Resistance Artists’) situated off the city’s

Photograph by Hemis / Alamy

COMMON TEMPLE OFFERINGS INCLUDE CANDLES, SOAPS AND KITTENS

main thoroughfare, the Grand Rue. A community of young, largely self-taught artists, they count politics, history and vodou as influences, making sculptures and artworks from scrap metal, old vehicle parts, and wood, some of which can sell abroad for up to £15,000. The works can be challenging and confrontational – some feature skulls, or dismembered plastic dolls, contorted and macabre-looking; but, as one of the artists, Romel Jean Pierre, tells me, “A lot of our art is about death, but also life. Haitians try to live their lives to the fullest as we’re constantly surrounded by death, thanks to earthquakes and hurricanes.” So what exactly is vodou, which inspires so much of the art here? Depicted in the West, and portrayed particularly in Hollywood as a dark art (who can forget the sinister Baron Samedi in Bond film Live and Let Die, or, er, Ron Burgundy in Anchorman 2 telling his son Walter that, “Voodoo is the one thing you should be afraid of”?), do people here really put curses on each other by pricking dolls with pins, or turn victims into zombies? Well, no… but also, in some cases, yes. There is rumoured to be a small sub-division of the religion which practises such evil things; but the majority of worshippers regard their god, Bondye, as a force for good and healing. Later, Jean Baptiste Jean-Joseph, a laid-back, open-shirted, dreadlocked

vodou priest (or houngan), welcomes me into his temple (peristyle), which also functions as a gallery from where he sells elaborate beaded and sequined vodou flags (traditionally used at ceremonies), decorated with depictions of vodou spirits. Some take up to The Iron Market three weeks to is so named for make, and are sold its elaborate iron for around £4,000. exterior, featuring grand minarets and After anointing the a clocktower. It was central pillar in the completely rebuilt after the earthquake middle of the temple in 2010 destroyed it. with a few splashes of Barbancourt rum (to please the spirits, though also himself as he takes a hearty swig afterwards), he explains that the way outsiders view vodou doesn’t bother him: “I know the truth about it and that’s what’s most important to me.” The next day, at the city’s central Marché en Fer (‘Iron Market’), we see a whole swathe of stall-holders who sell vodou artefacts, including – just for tourists – small cloth dolls with packets of pins. More common temple offerings include candles, soaps, scarves and, disconcertingly, the odd kitten. Apparently they’re not being sold as pets… Away from the heat and intensity of the capital, and a short flight up to the northern coast, is the town of Cap-Haïtien. A few miles away, at the top of one of the country’s many verdant hills, looms

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Experiences

HAITI

GETTING THERE The new ten-day Highlights of Haiti trip from G Adventures starts at £1,599 per person, which includes accommodation, most meals, internal transfers and transport, and guides. There are five departures for this tour in 2015. gadventures.co.uk For more information or to book, call 0844 272 2040 or see the website Fly from London to Port-au-Prince via Miami from £790 return with American Airlines. aa.com

STRETCHES OF COASTLINE ARE PEPPERED WITH BEACH BARS SELLING GRILLED FISH AND POWERFUL RUM PUNCH 50

there are dozens of locals on hand keen to convince you to do it on horseback), the views from the top Conch is a Caribbean are breathtaking, staple, served in and you can see salads, soups, stews, what’s left of the curries, gumbos, burgers, or as fritters hundreds of cannons or ceviche. So try to and cannonballs that forget that a conch is Christophe managed a sea snail – it tastes good, honest. to stockpile. Back at the bottom of the hill are the ruins of Sans-Souci, the fabulously over-the-top palace Christophe built for himself. Beyond the history, visitors to Haiti will find a range of beaches easily rivalling those of its Caribbean neighbours. Cormier Plage, a few miles from Cap Haitien, fulfills all desert island fantasies – crystal-clear water, white sand and hammocks – while to the south of the country, the stretches of coastline past

FROM TOP: Find laid-back paradise beaches near the colonial town of Jacmel; meet the tap-tap, Haiti’s multicoloured public transport

the charming colonial town of Jacmel are peppered with beach bars and restaurants, selling grilled fish and powerful rum punch. In fact, the food is one of the most pleasant surprises here; avocados and tomatoes, which grow plentifully, are rich and succulent, and commonly accompany dishes like griyo (fried pork) and lambi (stewed conch). Rice is served with everything, usually cooked with mushrooms, and known as diri djon djon. Despite the evident poverty, Haitians are warm and friendly (though initially a touch suspicious of les blans, or foreigners), and generous with what little they have. Ultimately, they know their future lies with the increasing influx of tourists, and are keen to let you know their country is worth visiting. As one bar owner calls to us from the deck of his beachside tavern, “Haiti is open for business!” Long may it stay that way. e Note: Haiti is a malarial country

Photograph by Robert Harding World Imagery / Alamy; Mike Greenslade / Alamy

Citadelle Laferrière, the dominating fortress built in the early 1820s by Henri Christophe – another key player in the battle for independence – to defend Haiti in case the French ever came back and tried to reclaim it. Thankfully, they never did; but they’d have faced some pretty impressive firepower if they had. Reached by a stiff, 45-minute uphill walk (although


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The Fondation Louis Vuitton has 12 glass ‘sails’, consiting of 3,600 panes. The white ‘iceberg’ is constructed from 19,000 panels made from fibre-reinforced concrete, or Ductal.

Photograph by Hemis / Alamy

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Experiences

PARIS

Architect Frank Gehry has created an instant icon, tucked away on the the edge of Paris. Jon Hawkins tries his hardest to track it down, and finds another legend making a return after a five-year break 53


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Experiences

ABOVE: A visitor to the Musée Picasso, reopened at the end of last year after a refit, admires the artist’s Femmes à leur toilette

I

’ve seen the pictures and read the reports so I know what I’m supposed to be looking for, but so far all I can see is a slightly ropey children’s amusement park and thousands of trees. What the map on my phone says should be in front of me is one of the most significant pieces of architecture to spring up in Paris for years – a vast, contorted structure that looks (depending on who you ask) like a boat, a rhino or simply an indescribable collision of glass panels and wooden struts. Whatever the Fondation Louis Vuitton is supposed to resemble, right now I can’t find it. The first I see of the luxury brand’s new contemporary art museum, which opened in October 2014, is the queue – it spills out

Photograph by Hemis / Alamy

IT HAS THE IMPACT AND GLOSS OF SOMETHING THAT’S TRULY, TERRIFYINGLY EXPENSIVE

Canadian-born onto the avenue du architect Gehry is Mahatma Gandhi at currently working on the northern tip of Mark Zuckerberg’s Zee Town – a 200the Bois de Boulogne. acre community for The park sits on the 10,000 Facebook western edge of the employees in Menlo Park, California périphérique that encircles the centre of Paris, and at 850 hectares it’s nearly big enough to squeeze in two Central Parks and one Hyde Park. No wonder it easily swallowed 13,500m2 of glass. As the Frank Gehry-designed structure heaves into view, it looks like a futuristic cruise ship – a ghostly, pale form rising out of a shimmering pool. Get closer and distinct forms – huge, curved walls of glass that reflect the trees and sky, a white concrete ‘iceberg’, and wooden beams so beautifully finished they look like part of a giant Ercol chair – start to resolve. The pool at the front of the building empties out onto a broad cascade of steps, so it looks like the structure is sucking water into its core. The whole thing has the impact and gloss of something truly, terrifyingly expensive (the New York Times estimates Louis Vuitton’s parent group, LVMH, spent $135m building it). I queue (though not for as long as I’d feared), enter into the serene, lightdrenched lobby, and wander straight into an exhibition that details the building’s design process with videos, 3D mood boards and scale models. The latter look so delicate that I put my hands deep in my pockets in case my flailing arms bring about a futuristic-dolls-house catastrophe. The innards of the Fondation – thanks to the freeform structure – are a whiteand-wood maze, spread across multiple levels with interlinked rooms that house permanent and temporary art exhibitions.

PARIS

Much of the art is, like the building, contemporary and jarring; we join transfixed hordes in one room watching footage of a penguin waddling around a desolate, arctic landscape before flashlights saturate the screen and loud screeches shatter the silence (A Journey That Wasn’t, Pierre Huyghe, 2005). There are works by more familiar artists including sculptor Alberto Giacometti, minimalist painter Ellsworth Kelly and photographer Wolfgang Tillmans, too, but the Fondation comes into its own when you head to the open-air upper floors. There, the soaring beams and arcing glass walls frame and distort the Paris skyline; a sliver of a gap offers a glimpse of the Eiffel tower, while viewing the Bois de Boulogne through curved panels of glass gives a sense that you’ve stumbled into a futuristic, utopian biosphere. It is – whatever you think of the architecture – an extraordinary, landmark contribution to the city’s cultural landscape.

A Portrait of the Artist Later that day I’m back in the centre of Paris, once again angling my head to squint at familiar shapes distorted into abstract forms. This time, though, I’m inside an art gallery,

ART TO CATCH THIS YEAR 29 MAY - 11 OCT Henry Darger, Musée d’Art Moderne See recently unearthed works by the legendary outsider artist. Trocadéro; mam.paris.fr

11 JUL - 15 NOV Beauté Congo 1926-2015, Fondation Cartier A celebration of art from the Democratic Republic of Congo. Montparnasse; fondation. cartier.com

7 OCT - 29 FEB Picasso Mania, the National Galleries of the Grand Palais The artist’s influence on modern art, featuring work by David Hockney, Jasper Johns, JeanMichel Basquiat and Jeff Koons. Champs Élysée; grandpalais.fr

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Experiences

ABOVE: The Marais district is a great place to walk, shop, eat and drink. Historic buildings and edgy, modern boutiques sit side by side

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WHERE TO STAY HOTEL DU PETIT MOULIN Hidden away behind the frontage of an old boulangerie in the Marais, the Hotel du Petit Moulin takes the boutique hotel concept to its logical next step – not only is it tiny and personal, but the Christian Lacroix-designed interiors (think bold colours, animal prints and vintage collage – in a good way) feel like a fashion house as much as a hotel. Rooms are as spacious and comfortable as they are riotously decorated, while a location in the Haut Marais means you’re never far from shops, bars and restaurants. 29/31 rue de Poitou; from €195 per room per night, based on two sharing on a B&B basis; hotelpetitmoulinparis.com

ART IS EVERYWHERE HERE, FROM THE VAST MUSEUMS ON THE BANKS OF THE SEINE TO STREET ART IN BELLEVILLE You enter through a serene, gravelled courtyard off the the rue de Thorigny (tip: buy tickets in advance online to avoid the queues) and walk into a large, open lobby, with checkerboard tiles and a soaring central staircase influenced by the one Michelangelo designed for his Laurentian Library in Florence. As you work your way from gallery to gallery, and through Picasso’s life, you rise up through the building, finishing in its rafters with a selection of works by other artists from his private collection. If you’re not sapped of mental energy and floored by the man’s relentless creativity by this point, you haven’t been looking hard enough. I descend back to the real world in search of respite, and find it in the grid of photogenic streets lining the Marais, where tiny brasseries knock up against art galleries, and the fashion boutiques look more like art galleries than the galleries themselves. In a city where art is everwhere – from the vast museums on the banks of the Seine to street art in Belleville – maybe that shouldn’t come as a surprise. But, as the Fondation Louis Vuitton and revamped Musée Picasso both show, Paris still has the capacity to shock and amaze. And long may that continue. e

Photograph by Steve Smith, Getty Images; Alexandre Moulard

rather than stood at the top of one, and the architect of these angular shapes and fractured forms is Pablo Picasso. The gallery – the Musée Picasso in the trendy Marais district – reopened last year (at almost exactly the time as the Fondation Louis Vuitton) following a five-year renovation project, and it traces the life and career of one of the 20th century’s greatest artists through more than 5,000 works. It’s a staggering, exhausting collection that’s virtually impossible to take in in a single visit (or even five or ten), but to get a feel for the Spanish-born artist’s development, and the themes that run through (or arrive and quickly disappear from) his work, it’s essential. If you were bemused by the world-record $179m sale price of Picasso’s Women of Algiers (Version O) at a New York auction last month, a visit to the Musée Picasso won’t make the figure seem like a bargain, but it will go some way to explaining why billionaire hedge fund managers and oligarchs scrap it out to pay nine-figure sums for his work. The building is a spectacle in itself – not in the attention-grabbing, hyper-modern manner of Gehry’s Fondation Louis Vuitton, but as a piece of Marais history. Known as the Hôtel Salé, the baroque mansion was built in the mid-17th The previous most century for a salt-tax expensive artwork farmer, and passed ever sold at auction through various hands was Francis Bacon’s Three Studies before it was selected of Lucian Freud to be the Musée triptych, which Picasso’s home in the sold for $142.4m in November 2013. late 1970s.

PARIS


Bestselling trips


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Experiences

STOCKHOLM

l hive of o o h c s r fo ltoo-coo sed to find a le p is Expecting a r e p ters, Ed Coo s ip h xed affair, ila d e n r a e c r S o m r in fact a fa sual nudity a c , s Stockholm is ie it iv t c wintry a itors stay is with enough v e r u s n e bars to optional : s e k la and friendly n e z ping into fro m u J . d le il h c

Illustration by Ben Tallon

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Experiences

STOCKHOLM

ABOVE: The bay of Riddarfjärden on an icy Lake Mälaren, with the striking architecture of Stockholm’s Old Town behind. The Old Town dates from the 13th century, but most buildings are 18th- and 19th-century

Photograph by Chad Ehlers / Alamy

F ’

orever chilled,’ my gravestone would read. At least, that was my initial thought after voluntarily plummeting, naked, into an ice-cold Lake Källtorp, a small body of water in Stockholm’s outdoorsy epicentre, Hellasgården. This forced me to face the very real possibility of a frosty demise: trapped under ice in an undercurrent, with locals looking on in horror – a recipe for a PR nightmare.

Of course, these were just morbid thoughts jolted into me by the shock of the frigid lake’s shrivelling temperatures. The reality: merely a typical case of bumbling journo (guilty) risking bodily parts in the name of a good Scandinavians story. I surface to the take their saunas sound of rapturous seriously, and the golden rule is – no laughter from a group swimwear. Nudity is of locals, seemingly required, though you congratulating me should take a towel to sit on (shy folk for being daft enough can wrap up in it). to plummet into the unforgiving depths. Alive? Yes. Stupid? Undoubtedly. Wind back the clock about 20 minutes and you’d see me embark on the first stage of the lake-jump preamble: stripping down and setting course for one of Hellasgården’s saunas to endure 80°C heat with a handful of locals and my guide, Marco. “Do you share any similar traditions in England?” he asks. I struggle to draw comparisons to the lunacy of the naked lake jump, managing only to uncover a fraction

I SURFACE FROM THE LAKE TO THE SOUND OF LAUGHTER FROM A GROUP OF LOCALS 61


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Experiences

STOCKHOLM

NEED TO KNOW EAT & DRINK B.A.R. (or Blasieholmens Akvarium och Restaurang, if you insist on being formal), in central Stockholm, offers a traditional pick-your-dinner and locally caught fish bar towards the back. Expertly encapsulating the shabby-chic, not-quite-finished feel that occupies many of the best restaurants in the city, there’s even some sumptuous Swedish craft beer behind the bar, making this place a case of straight outta Shoreditch (minus the try-hards). restaurangbar.se

STAY Built from the ruined castles of the 1700s and proudly registered among Sweden’s listed historic buildings, Hotel Skeppsholmen was once a hospice for plague victims, and later went on to accommodate military employees until 1900. Now sporting a refreshing, forward-thinking design, the hotel is itself a representation of Swedish culture, in terms of both hospitality and typical Scandi-style. hotelskeppsholmen.se

PARTY

Photograph by Johner Images / Alamy

A multi-purpose entertainment venue on the corner of Berzelii Park, Berns breathes the feel of a venue that even Gatsby would frequent, especially on a Friday evening – which is when you should be there, too. Elegantly resplendent at its quietest and eye-bogglingly opulent at its greatest, skip that bloody Ice Bar and settle in here. berns.se/en

As well as ice diving, of idiotic similarity Sweden offers a in chasing a wheel of number of wreck cheese down a hill in dives, including a rural Gloucestershire, variety of Second World War ships which – according to around the island of Marco, now in only Öland, off the coast his birthday suit – is of Småland. “complete madness”. If you’re wondering about the reasoning behind this traditional Swedish silliness, the theory is that leaping into a freezing lake will shock you into living longer. An imperfect plan, if you ask me. Post-jump, I’m a little embarrassed (men aren’t supposed to squeal) but completely refreshed. Eventually, my lungs recover and Marco (who’s still naked) and I return to the relative paradise of the sauna. Chatting away in the stifling heat, a few locals (they’re naked too) recommend a trip to Brunnsviken, a bay of the Baltic Sea surrounded by parkland. At the time of my visit (in mid-winter), Brunnsviken resembles a Herculean block of ice, and tourists and Stockholmers flock to it. Heaps of alternative and winter-friendly activities are available

in and around the city, and Brunnsviken in particular – hiking, cross-country skiing, pimpling (that’s ice fishing to you and me) and, for the truly masochistic, ample opportunity for a spot of ice diving. Having left Hellasgården armed with a new aptitude for all things wintry, I set course to spend my next day in Stockholm slipping, sliding and – eventually – skating along the Brunnsviken with Stockholm locals and wintersports aficionados ICEguide. Deploying onto the lake with a backpack full of survival must-haves (that’s a lifejacket, coffee, sausages and soup, in case you’re interested or lost), and skates sharp enough to shave with, I take to the

THE THEORY IS THAT LEAPING INTO A FREEZING LAKE WILL MAKE YOU LIVE LONGER 63


Experiences

STOCKHOLM

STOCKHOLM IS A PLACE WHERE YOU CAN TOTALLY DISCONNECT FROM THE GRID ABOVE: A boat makes its way through the frozen Baltic Sea that surrounds Stockholm. The city is made up of 14 islands of the wider Stockholm archipelago

ice and – as soon as I’m able to look up from my bumbling feet – am seduced by the frozen Scandinavian seascape. “OUR RELIGION IS ICE!” yells our inimitably enthusiastic leader and ICEguide’s founder, Joakim Malm, during my comparatively bumbling baptism behind him. Having been thoroughly wooed by my surroundings, I’m inclined to join his cult. Whether submerged below

the waves and scrambling for dear life in Hellasgården, or skating on top of the Baltic Sea in the Brunnsviken, you are powerless to resist the merciless beauty of Stockholm’s natural landscape. Later in the day, we head to Tweed Bar, a stone’s throw from Skeppsholmen (an island, which shares its name with my hotel), where Stockholm’s homage to hyperlocal culture continues, particularly in the drinks Tweed serves. The menu is peppered with inventive cocktails and – more notably – craft beers named after some of the bar’s more, let’s say, interesting employees, which, done with less humour and affection, could come across as crushingly hipster. As it is, Tweed – like the city itself – is welcoming and unpretentious in a way you might not at first expect. As I sip of my Don Kypare (that’s

GETTING THERE FLIGHTS British Airways flies to Stockholm from London Heathrow, with fares starting at £93 one-way; to book visit ba.com or call 0844 4930 787.

MORE INFORMATION Ed Cooper was a guest of Visit Sweden. Head to the website to find suggestions for both city breaks and countryside escapes. visitsweden.com

Photograph by Nils-Johan Norenlind /Getty

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Like any good hipster hotbed, Stockholm has a fanatical coffee culture. Södermalm generally boasts the best blogger-friendly cafes serving ‘fika’ in cut glass jars.

a craft IPA named after Tweed’s largerthan-life Italian chef), I ruminate on precisely what makes Stockholm so easy to fall in love with. For starters, it’s a quirky, idyllic destination ideal for your own disappearing act, with its vast expanses of nature and a refreshing lack of cooler-than-thou attitude. It’s also a place where you can totally disconnect from the grid without venturing far from the city limits. This rush of utopian wonderment stays with me as I my flight back to London soars over Stockholm’s archipelago. Come as you are, leave your comfort zone in the departures lounge, and you’ll be welcomed as a local. Consider it a city in which you’ll be both literally and metaphorically chilled – just remember to keep your head above water and you’ll have a fine old time. e


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BURG KING Miami is a glittering mecca for glamourpusses, but how about gluttons? Hannah Summers bins off the beaches and puts herself in the capable hands of local blogger Burger Beast, for a high-speed tour of the city’s most outrageously heart-stopping fast food 66


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Experiences

MIAMI

M

y instructions are simple. “Wait for me in the car park at 9pm,” the email reads. “And wear baggy pants.” Baggy pants? For a break in Miami? No lycra, micro cut-offs or Lululemon yoga leggings? Can this be right? It’s gloriously right. After weeks of chatting online, I’m finally meeting my latest internet interest. His name: Sef Gonzalez. Our connection: an unhealthy obsession with patties, buns and everything that comes with them. Sef Gonzalez, better known as the Burger Beast, may not be your typical glammed-up Miami local, but he knows and loves the city’s food more than any ripped resident of Florida. Regarded as one of the most influential eaters in the region, he’s also one of the biggest burger bloggers in the US – as his website and waistband can testify. For the three days I’m in his hometown, he’s tasked himself – and me – with a no-bunleft-unturned food tour: “I’m going to show you the real Miami,” he promises me and my friend Tom. “Not a kale juice in sight.” He isn’t lying. Donning our most forgiving trousers, we begin our challenge that night at Karla Bakery, a 24-hour Cuban cafe where locals gather for late-night carbs and caffeine. Ordering us to take a seat, Sef returns presenting paper bags bulging with guavastuffed pastries, alongside slices of Cuban bread, liberally slathered with butter before and after toasting. Dip the buttered toast into your sugary, milky coffee, and you’re fast assimilating into Miami’s Latino community – the city is nicknamed the ‘Capital of Latin America’, thanks to its majority Spanishspeaking population.

Photograph by ###

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It’s just our first taste of Miami’s thriving Cuban culture, and the next morning Sef introduces us to the neighbourhood of Little Havana. Far from the shimmering highrises of Miami Beach, here the streets boast a salsa soundtrack, while the older members of the community play al fresco dominoes. El Rey de las Fritas – meaning ‘The King of the Fritas’ – is the block’s Cuban canteen of choice. Inside, the wall acts as a menu – untouched since the 1970s, it’s lined with faded pictures of food photographed on doilies, the options shouted at us with garish retro block capitals. Silver-haired residents perch at the counter beneath stark fluorescent lights, while other, younger diners lounge in low-slung baggy jeans, lazily eyeing up the waitresses. For a city famed for being crazily image conscious, this place shuns all Miami clichés, and for these customers, it doesn’t matter who you’re dining with – it’s all about the food. We soon see why. Sure enough, the famous Burger Beast’s arrival doesn’t go unnoticed. Plates come careering out the kitchen: the Frita Cubana is made of a thin, flattened ground-beef patty, heavily seasoned with paprika (to replicate the look and taste of chorizo), heaped with diced onions, crunchy julienne potatoes, optional cheese and egg (we opt in), stuffed into a toasted Cuban bun. A Batido de Mamey quenches the salt-induced The Frita Cubana thirst, the sweet started life as a fruit juiced into popular street food a creamy shake, served from carts in 1930s Cuba. It was before an intense brought to Miami in cafecito the 1960s and can be found at most Cuban – a strong Cuban eateries in the city. coffee – dulls the

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food coma and sends us on our way. We fall straight into the arms of Josh Marcus – chef and owner of Josh’s Deli, which is located in the sleepy northern Miami beachside Around 54% of town of Surfside. Miami’s population The red carpet’s out, is Cuban-American. the regal treatment Little Havana even continues. But this has a Walkway of the Stars, honouring time, the warm-up’s Latin celebs such as over: “My friends Gloria Estefan and here are over from Celia Cruz. England, so we’ll try one of everything,” the BB says, his laughter booming around the small cafe. Queue a satisfied group groan as we tuck into double portions of Josh’s classics:

ABOVE: Glimmering high-rises + yachts = standard Miami glitz. BELOW: Expect allAmerican beaches and bodies to match

potato latkes (small pancakes) topped with tuna and spicy Sriracha cream cheese, bread wodged with thick slabs of pastrami (and an extra bag to go “for my mom and dad,” Sef tells us), homemade bagels and, to round it off, a mammoth pastrami frita burger – that’s 10% bacon, 80% ground chuck, 10% pastrami chunks. I feel fat, but we’re not done just yet. Sinking into the sweet relief of Sef’s airconned 4x4, we roll through the Miami traffic to Wynwood, the Magic City’s hipster art district. At the side of a thoughtfully graffitied road waits Jefe’s – one of Miami’s many food trucks. “When you think about what a burger should be, this is it,” Burger Beast tells me, giddy at the thought of us trying it. “It’s the quintessential burger, and trying to stop at one bite is… difficult.” He may be smiling, but it’s no joke. Who could resist the super-soft bun and patties blanketed in gooey cheese? Ordering it ‘Burger Beast-style’ means there’s no sign of salad, just small fried onions and lashings of owner Jack’s secret sauce. Tom’s eyes start to glaze over, a sure sign that we’re done for the day. Sef deposits us back in the hyperactive playground of South Beach where, de-robing to reveal bulging bellies, we stroll the talcum-white sand, gazing behind sunglasses at the showy parade of pecs and pert bums. So this is the Miami that Big Willie was raving about. Gone are the days of the city’s 1950s reputation as a ‘snowbird’

WE TUCK INTO THE PASTRAMI FRITA BURGER: 10% BACON, 80% GROUND CHUCK, 10% PASTRAMI


Experiences

PLACE:

PLACE:

Josh’s Deli

Jefe’s food truck

ORDER:

ORDER:

Double Cheezer, Burger Beast-style

Potato latkes with tuna

BEST FOR:

BEST FOR:

A quick burger or taco in Wynwood

Chilled out brunch in sleepy Surfside

PLACE:

PLACE:

Marlie’s Delights food truck

Proper Sausages

ORDER:

Dub sausage in a Portuguese muffin

BEST FOR:

Breakfast, and a serious beer selection

ORDER:

Apple pie cinnamon rolls

BEST FOR:

Dessert at BB’s fest

PLACE:

PLACE:

La Sandwicherie

Karla Bakery

ORDER:

ORDER:

Photographs by (top left) Sean Pavone / Alamy; (right page) Hannah Summers

Cafe con leche and tostada con mantequilla

Napoli in a croissant

BEST FOR:

Coffee, sandwiches and salads just off the beach

BEST FOR:

24-hour carbing

PLACE:

El Rey de las Fritas

ORDER:

Frita Cubana (it’s the best in town)

BEST FOR:

Cuban culture and food in Little Havana

MIAMI

PLACE:

Cheeseburger Baby

ORDER:

Bacon cheeseburger with mushrooms

BEST FOR:

Late night/early morning cravings

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Experiences

settlement – the blue rinse retirees are now outnumbered by cavorting twenty-somethings, all teeth, tans and toned thighs. There’s hope for us yet. We attempt a brisk walk along the water, where the sand is peppered with colourful wooden lifeguard huts, the paint fading in the dazzling Florida sunshine. It’s a half-arsed attempt at some cardio before the city’s bars inevitably take hold of us. At hut 14 (that’s 14th Avenue), the beach Portuguese muffins is flanked by pastel differ from English Art Deco buildings, muffins by being neon hotel signs, sweeter and larger, making them great bars and volleyball for burgers (you find courts showcasing lots of Portuguese energetic locals slick muffin burgers in with sweat. We flirt NYC’s East Village). with the prospect of an outdoor gym session, but happy hour beckons; super-strong margaritas come in goblets the size of a football. The Beast’s wake-up call is eager and early – there’s some ground to cover. It starts with breakfast at Proper Sausages, a

neighbourhood institution and essentially a butcher’s shop that serves blinding sandwiches, where people queue for kilograms of meat to take away and also leave with a snack for the road. Ours is a spicy pork patty, with oozy cheese and a fried egg squished into a Portuguese muffin, which we munch in Burger Beast’s car while James – the Beast’s favourite British band – sing about getting laid. That’s when things start to get serious. “I want you guys to meet my parents,” Sef announces, and it’s on to the parking lot of the Magic City Casino, where every month the Burger Beast holds the Wheelin’ Dealin’ Street Food Festival. It’s Miami proper – no tourists, no tans – just food-loving families enjoying the city’s best food trucks on a Saturday night. Sef’s mum, dad, wife, friend, cousin, niece, nephew, neighbour and dog gather around our table, each insisting we try a bit of their meal. It’s a feast ranging from zesty tacos to foot-long hotdogs, and finishing with doughy, generously iced apple pie cinnamon rolls “made especially for your visit by my neighbour,” Sef tells me with a grin.

MIAMI

EAT THIS LA SANDWICHERIE Trendy off-beach café with giant baguettes and croissants stuffed with cheese, meat and tropical fruit. 229 14th St, South Beach and 34 SW 8th St; lasandwicherie.com

WHEELIN’ DEALIN’ STREET FOOD FESTIVAL The variety at WDSFF is huge, but save room for the cinnamon rolls at Marlie’s Delights. Magic City Casino; 3rd Sat of every month; burgerbeast.com

MEAT Out in Boca Raton, MEAT’s a bit of a drive, but it’s worth the effort for the Wisconsin beer cheese soup and Juicy Lucy burger. 980 North Federal H’way; meateateryboca.com

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Experiences

MIAMI

PROMOTION

GRAND AMERICAN ADVENTURES

ABOVE: The view at night from the man-made Brickell Key to Miami’s Brickell neighborhood, south of the Downtown area

GO BEYOND MIAMI

For more information visit grandamericanadventures.com or call 0333 003 8231.

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With our waistbands finally threatening to snap, the Beast and his family send us off to experience Miami’s famously hedonistic nightlife. Glitzy bars and gold Lamborghinis define Ocean Drive, but we prefer Washington Avenue, or “dirty Miami”, as the glamorous bikini bods tell us. Clubs and bars line the street, and the neon signs contain fewer five-star hotel names, and more of the ‘naughty girls enter here’ kind. The queue outside one particular bar winds its way along the pavement, under a rainbow flag that sways in the balmy heat. It’s Twist – Miami’s longest-standing gay club – and thanks to our “cute” English accents, we’re soon ushered inside to rooms crammed with up-for-it guys and a smattering of girls dragged along for the drama. We ping-pong Ocean Drive is also our way around home to the Versace seven bars playing Mansion, where the salsa, pop and EDM fashion designer was shot dead on the before finally settling front steps in 1997. It on the vibes of the recently opened as a Bungalow Bar, where boutique hotel, The Villa By Barton G. hip hop blares out, testosterone smacks us in the face, and the heady combination of creatine-inflated muscles, tequila and ‘pay for gay’ erotic dancers turns Tom weak at the knees. Propped up at the bar, we spend hours ogling the Cuban gods’ smooth chests and clenched bum cheeks, vaguely concealed by the skimpiest of boxers. With all these glorious taut and toned abs, it’s impossible to not think about my own stomach, and the Beast’s earlier words echo in my ears: “Go to Cheeseburger Baby at the end of your night, it’s one of the best burgers in Miami.” Slouching on stools inside the vergingon-dingy joint, our evening’s finale comes

ROOMS ARE CRAMMED WITH UP-FORIT GUYS AND A SMATTERING OF GIRLS at 5am when we select our patty size, toppings and sauce, and wait for our parcels to arrive. Tearing open the paper reveals a glistening mound of delicious, salty meat and bread, so damn good that we can’t resist ordering another. “Burger Beast,” we slur, bumping burgers mid-air, “this one’s for you.” e See more of Burger Beast’s recommendations at burgerbeast.com; Hannah Summers writes a blog about burgers and, er, Bruce Springsteen at burgersandbruce.com

GETTING THERE British Airways (0844 493 0787, ba.com) offers sale fares to Miami from £462 return.

Photograph by (top right) Eddie Lluisma/Getty

Miami is a destination in itself, but if you’re looking to extend the adventure you’re in the right place. Grand American Adventures are experts in small group adventures in North & Central America, where you can discover the region’s greatest sights and experiences. So use the city as a starting point before setting off on your very own adventure. Fans of cowboys and rodeo can find the perfect counterpoint to the glitz of Miami on the Texas Ranger. The nine-day Wild West tour takes in Tex-Mex culture, the city of Dallas and a two-night insight into cowboy life on a Texan ranch (from £1,559). To see a totally different side of the south, the Carolinas and Smoky Mountains trip is hard to beat. Explore the majestic forests of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park and the magical southern charm of Savannah’s historical district, all on a ten-day culturepacked adventure (from £1,399). If you’ve got a taste for city life after Miami, the twelve-day NorthEastern Explorer has it all. The trip stops in Toronto and Quebec, along with Washington DC and Boston in the US. But it’s not all bustle – you’ll also visit the White Mountains and Niagara Falls (from £1,989). Wherever you want to take your journey after Miami, you’ll find it with Grand American Adventures.


Introducing the best value tour of California and the American West Your holiday includes • Direct flights with British Airways or Virgin Atlantic from Heathrow

14 days from just

£1499

• All airport taxes, security charges & UK APD • 12 nights in quality hotels including 3 breakfasts • Hotel porterage (one bag pp) • Escorted by an expert local tour manager • Transportation in comfortable air conditioned vehicles

Great value

Enhance your experience • Extend your stay in San Francisco Call for pricing • Pre-bookable Grand Canyon helicopter flight from £120pp

California, Las Vegas and the Grand Canyon

• Pre-bookable Grand Canyon fixed-wing flight from £95pp

Explore the glorious ‘Golden West’, including its most iconic cities and natural marvels

Dates & prices

San Francisco • Fresno • Las Vegas Arizona • Grand Canyon • Phoenix San Diego • Anaheim • Los Angeles From its sun-drenched coastline and spectacular national parks to the delightful cities of San Francisco and San Diego and the movie-making heartland of Hollywood, California is one of the world’s most exciting holiday destinations. On what we believe is the best value tour of the region, you’ll spend time in three of the Golden State’s great cities and visit the aweinspiring Yosemite National Park, as well as fabulous Las Vegas and the breathtaking natural wonder that is the Grand Canyon. We’ll also travel through the Mojave Desert and call into the charming artists’ colony of Sedona and Phoenix, known as ‘Arizona’s Urban Heart’; a real celebration of the ‘best of the west!’

Nine amazing sights, one amazing price

• Take a city tour, to revel in the relaxed and laid back atmosphere of the attractive city of San Francisco • Be astounded by the breathtaking beauty of Yosemite National Park - a UNESCO World Heritage Site • See the Mojave Desert, a 1.6 million acre park bursting with volcanic cinder cones, sand dunes, Joshua trees and wild flowers • Experience the incomparable ‘City of Lights’ - Las Vegas • Get your kicks, as you travel along the renowned Route 66 • View the humbling Grand Canyon National Park, the scope of which is always underestimated • Drive through the spectacular gorge of Oak Creek Canyon to Sedona artists’ colony • Enjoy a city tour of the self-named ‘America’s Finest City’ - San Diego • Spot celebrities or just take in the glitz and glamour of Hollywood

2015 (prices from) 24 Sep

£1,899

15 Oct

£1,749

5, 19 Nov

£1,599

3 Dec

£1,499

2016 (prices from) 21 Jan

£1,599

18 Feb

£1,679

10 Mar

£1,749

14, 28 Apr / 5 May

£1,879

12 May / 2, 16 Jun

£1,899

4 Aug

£2,199

25 Aug / 1, 8, 15 Sep / 6 Oct

£1,899

20 Oct

£1,779

10 Nov

£1,749

8 Dec

£1,649

Single Supplement from £499 Prices are ‘from’ per person, valid for new bookings. Spaces are limited at these prices, subject to change and will be confirmed at time of booking. See our website for further details. ESTA is not included. Please call for details

TO BOOK CALL FREE ON 0800 988 5170 quoting source code ES1 6TC or for more information, visit titantravel.co.uk/traveller Open Mon to Fri 9am-6pm, Sat 9am-5pm, Sundays and Bank Holidays 10am-4pm (see website for latest opening hours). Prices are from per person. Please call for details. Spaces are limited at these prices, subject to change and will be confirmed at time of booking. Telephone calls will be recorded for training purposes. Free from a BT landline. Calls from mobile phones, other networks or from overseas may incur charges from your network operator.


The Caribbean

Beach Idyll Beautiful beaches, adventure and culture – St Lucia, Barbados and Tobago have something for every traveller. Explore the best of them with British Airways

I

f you try to conjure up your idea of paradise, chances are the Caribbean would come pretty close – sugar-white beaches, luxurious resorts and miles and miles of aquamarine seas make it one of the most idyllic destinations on earth. And at around eight hours’ flight from London, it’s an ideal place to enjoy some well-deserved R&R. But which of its many islands to visit? St Lucia, Barbados and Tobago – with adventure, vibrant culture and movie-star coastlines wrapped into each one – should be right at the top of your ultimate Caribbean wishlist. Whether it’s exploring the rainforest and

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peaks of St Lucia, enjoying the beats and beaches of Barbados or diving among coral in blissed-out Tobago, there’s something for everyone in these diverse and indulgent islands. And British Airways has a wide variety of topclass resorts from which to choose – all you have to do is pick one. Tough life, isn’t it?

In association with

St Lucia What sets St Lucia apart from its Caribbean neighbours are the swathes of thick, fresh-green rainforest that blanket the island, making it a truly tropical-looking paradise. The north offers a wide choice of bars and restaurants and plenty of golden beaches to keep your tan topped up, while the south is a more tranquil affair with volcanic beaches and a real get-back-to-nature vibe. This surplus of natural beauty makes St Lucia one of the most romantic places in the world; you’ll be hard pushed to find a finer spot for lazy days followed by candlelit dinners for two.


P ROM OT IONAL F E ATU R E

THE RESORT HAS EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO HELP YOU RELAX, INCLUDING AN AWARDWINNING SPA & DELICIOUS FOOD

The BodyHoliday ST LUCIA

CLOCKWISE FROM MAIN: Relax on sunloungers at The BodyHoliday’s infinity pool, with views of the Caribbean Sea; a Luxury Ocean View Room; Tai Chi at the resort’s Coubaril Valley; the immaculate beach at The BodyHoliday

The northern tip of St Lucia gives off a secluded and relaxed air, but is still close enough to the island’s main draws – namely, the stunning, mountainous landscape – to feel like you’re in among the action. It’s here that you’ll find the peaceful and rejuvenating The BodyHoliday, a healthy retreat offering wholesome experiences that are guaranteed to return you to London life refreshed and rejuvenated. Relaxation comes first at this all-inclusive five-star hotel. The BodyHoliday has everything you need to rid you of the stresses of daily life, including an awardwinning spa where guests benefit from one free spa treatment each full day of their stay, and tasty, nutritious food in its wide range of restaurants. Certain months are themed around a different aspect of wellness – get stuck into JiveJune, with 16 different dance classes each week covering the jive to tango, as well as WellFit Families, where teenagers and adults alike can get their hearts racing with activities including waterfall THE abseiling, diving, and tennis. DEAL

£2,449

Seven-night all-inclusive holidays with British Airways start from just £2,449pp. For more information and to book, go to ba.com/thebodyholiday

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Sugar Beach, a Viceroy Resort ST LUCIA St Lucia isn’t all stunning beaches and bays – although it does these rather well, too – it’s also home to some true natural wonders. The iconic Piton mountains, lush rainforest and even a ‘drive in’ volcano stand St Lucia apart from its Caribbean cousins. The Pitons are brought into sharp focus at Sugar Beach, a Viceroy resort. The world-class resort is stretched across 100 acres of lush tropical forest in a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with unparalleled views over the stunning peaks. You’ll get the classic St Lucia holiday experience here – think chic waterfront dining, clean white lines in its expansive villas and residences, and vast vistas over the blues and greens of the rainforest and sparkling Caribbean Sea. Whether you’re with the family or on honeymoon, this intimate property has something for everyone. Enjoy a wide choice of watersports, relax in the indulgent Rainforest Spa, or simply kick back in the sun while a butler attends to your every need. THE DEAL

£1,419

Seven-night holidays including Bed and Breakfast with British Airways start from just £1,419 per person. To book visit ba.com/sugarbeachviceroy

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Sugar Beach, a Viceroy Resort, offers piton views; a seat on Malabar beach at Rendezvous; the tranquil water garden pool; al fresco dining on the terrace; picture-postcard vistas at Sugar Beach, a Viceroy Resort; the resort’s lush, green setting


P ROM OT IONAL F E ATU R E

THINK CHIC WATERFRONT DINING, LARGE VILLAS AND VISTAS OVER THE RAINFOREST AND SPARKLING CARIBBEAN SEA Rendezvous ST LUCIA It’s no surprise St Lucia is one of the world’s most romantic destinations – with miles of pure white-sand beaches framed by cobalt seas and lush greenery, it’s the ideal place to enjoy quality time with your significant other. Which is perhaps why the intimate environment of Rendezvous chose St Lucia for its exclusive couples-only luxury resort, set on a glorious twomile stretch of white-sand beach. The boutique bolthole does an excellent line in romance: think candlelit beach dining, private hideaways accessed via a lazy river and an indulgent, blissfully peaceful spa. With only 100 rooms, each stunningly furnished and with kingsized beds, this hotel prides itself on being an exclusive and discreet hideaway for couples – it’s the perfect place to reconnect. THE DEAL

£1,969

Seven-night all-inclusive holidays with British Airways start from just £1,969pp. For more information and to book, go to ba.com/rendezvous

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Tobago Tobago proves good things come in small packages. At just 42km across, it’s the mellow foil to neighbouring Trinidad’s party-hard personality; the sort of place you’ll wander around barefoot, in a sundazzled daze, chatting to locals at open-air bars and perhaps mustering just enough energy to snorkel its sparkling bays. Known for stunning dive sites and nature reserves, Tobago is perfect for nature lovers and determined dawdlers alike.

FROM ABOVE: Lush, peaceful gardens at the cosy Coco Reef on Tobago; the resort’s beach is the perfect starting point for sailing, windsurfing and snorkelling

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Coco Reef TOBAGO

COCO REEF IS TRADITIONAL TOBAGO AT ITS BEST. IT’S FULL OF CHARM, FROM THE COSY, RUSTIC ROOMS AND FRIENDLY SERVICE TO THE BEAUTIFUL PRIVATE BEACH

Tobago knows how to kick back and enjoy its natural beauty. Unspoiled rainforests, superior diving and hidden beaches framed by palm trees are just some of the sights. Coco Reef is traditional Tobago at its best, and it’s full of charm, from the cosy and rustic rooms to the friendly service. Found on the only private beach on the island, Coco Reef is surrounded by 10 acres of lush, manicured gardens, providing a great chance to absorb the island’s natural beauty. There’s a huge range of complimentary activities to get involved in, including sailing, windsurfing and snorkelling, which is particularly good on the resort’s manmade reef. Lay back on its perfect slice of beach and feel the island’s beauty wash over you. THE DEAL

£989

Seven-night holidays including Bed and Breakfast with British Airways start from just £989 per person. To book visit ba.com/ cocoreeftobago


P ROM OT IONAL F E ATU R E

Barbados Barbados is like four holidays in one. This classic Caribbean destination offers a heady mix of beachside glamour, lively resorts, and untamed natural beauty. Then of course there’s the historical capital of Bridgetown – a UNESCO World Heritage site. Put simply, it’s got something for everyone.

Sea Breeze Beach Hotel BARBADOS

Ocean Two BARBADOS Whether it’s absorbing local culture, sending your heart rate soaring with watersports or simply stretching out on the mile after mile of unspoilt coastline fringed by palm trees that makes your perfect holiday, Barbados has the ideal mix for a truly memorable family trip. Ocean Two makes the ideal base. Its spacious one- or two-bedroom suites – many with ocean views – come with expansive balconies, king-sized bed plus sofa bed, and fully equipped kitchens as standard, giving families space to enjoy quality time together. There’s even a pre-arrival grocery service, a private in-suite and beachside chef and a coconut vendor on the beach. Just beyond Ocean Two’s shore you can snorkel and kayak, and even further out you’ll find the pretty coral reef to explore. If that’s all too much, retire to the adults-only rooftop patio and plunge pool. It’s been a hard day, after all.

THE DEAL

£1,129

Seven-night holidays with British Airways start from just £1,129 per person on an Accommodation Only board basis. To book visit ba.com/oceantwo

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE LEFT: The lobby bar at Sea Breeze Beach Hotel in Barbados; the resort’s adults-only pool; the main pool at Ocean Two is just metres away from the palm-fringed beach; the pool deck at twilight

The lively island of Barbados is a vibrant, colourful place to spend a week immersed in traditional Caribbean culture. Street parties and carnivals call Barbados their spiritual home, so be prepared to join in. All-inclusive, family-friendly Sea Breeze Beach Hotel, on the southern shore of the island, knows Bajan culture. It’s walking distance to Oistins, which hosts the iconic Friday night fish fry, but the cuisine in this small resort is just as noteworthy: three eateries, including the refined Azul fine dining restaurant, will keep your tastebuds on their toes. The resort has just 78 rooms, meaning relaxation comes high on the agenda – and if you want some time without the youngsters, head to the adults-only pool and Jacuzzi after dropping the kids off THE at the Kids Club. DEAL

£1,649

Seven-night all-inclusive holidays with British Airways start from just £1,649pp. For more information and to book, go to ba.com/seabreeze

TERMS AND CONDITIONS Terms and conditions apply. Availability may be limited. Prices include return British Airways flights from London Gatwick and are based on two adults sharing for selected travel between 27 Aug and 14 Oct. Book by 23 June at ba.com or call 0844 493 0120

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GET MORE GEAR AT FESTIVALBABY.COM

CHECKLIST 82 84 86 88

STYLE FOR GUYS STYLE FOR GIRLS GEAR GROOMING

STRUNG OUT: Wearing flip-flops to a muddy festival isn’t a mistake you make twice, but for open-air freedom with sneaker comfort, Keen’s kooky and clever UNEEKS might just be the answer. See more festival gear on p82.

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CHECKLIST ★ G U YS ★

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THE FEST A MAN CAN GET Heading to a festival this summer? Here’s what you should be wearing – unless you’re off to Burning Man, in which case you’ll be wearing nothing. We know what you’re like…

1. KR3W, Triad vest, £28. Look mum, no arms! This is your goto vest for sunny festival days. kr3wdenim.com 2. VOLCOM, Whats Up Kooks sweat, £54.99. No apostrophe; no question mark; no problem. volcom.co.uk

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3. ‘47 BRAND, Oakland Athletics snapback, £30. Old-school US baseball cool. 47brand.com

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4. SCOTCH & SODA, Printed tee, £39.95. It’s a jungle out there, so get involved. scotch-soda.com 5. AMERICAN APPAREL, Diagonal strap gym bag, £44. Stash your essentials in style. americanapparel.co.uk

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FIND YOUR STYLE AT FESTIVALBABY.COM


CHECKLIST

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PhotographPhotograph by David Harrison by ###

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6. JEEP OUTFITTER, Hooded Eco-thermal jacket, £144. Light and packable jacket, for latenight chills. jeep-outfitter.com

9. REEF, Reefoncho, £35. You’re at a festival. It will rain. This camo poncho will make you the man. reef.com/eu

7. PALLADIUM, Pallabrouse, £58. Trudge and mosh in classic, vintage grey palladiumboots.co.uk

10. KOMONO, Winston Galore Camo M81, £80. Part fashion watch, part stealthy military tool. komono.com

8. SCOTCH & SODA, Ralston Sahara Blues short, £99.95. Pre-aged for stain disguise. scotch-soda.com

11. KOMONO, Riviera black rubber, £44.95. With red mirror lenses so no-one can see your last-day-of-Glasto eyes.

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MORE FEST LOOKS AT FESTIVALBABY.COM

★ GIRLS ★ 3

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Out with the clothes you’d normally wear on a Geography field trip back in the day, and in with functional high fashion, starting with this knitted boho cardigan.

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1. STARING AT STARS, Laddered maxi cardigan, £56. The heavy knit fabric will provide some extra warmth during day and night, along with a relaxed boho vibe. urbanoutfitters.com

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SUMMER OF LOVE Once upon a time, kids wore things like cagoules to festivals, and then the internet happened and we all had to dress like off-duty models – thanks, Coachella. Still, when in Rome…

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2. FRED PERRY, Classic Barrel Bag, £60. Lug your fest kit around in this retro Brit-chic bag, with various handy compartments. fredperry.com


CHECKLIST

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Protect your face and cover up the inevitable greasy mop with a big and bendy hat. No one behind you will be able to see anything, but hey, at least they can hear them.

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Photograph by David Harrison

3. FIFTH LABEL, Floral playsuit, £78. Playsuits may not be the most portaloo friendly, but they *do* look really good. So that helps. urbanoutfitters.com 4. SAMSØE & SAMSØE, Elisa o-neck 5832, £70. At first glance it’s a sweatshirt, on second glance it’s the best looking sweatshirt you’ll ever see – glitzy fest gear. samsoe.com

5. NICCE LONDON, Unisex sweatshirt, £44.99 Save space and share clothes with a unisex jumper. nicceclothing.com 6. AMERICAN APPAREL, California floppy hat, £34. Pretend you’re at Coachella with this Cali-inspired hat. americanapparel.net 7. ROO’S BEACH, Stance socks, £11.99. Yes, they’re pineapples on

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our ankles. You can stop staring now. roosbeach.co.uk

10. JUJU, Poppy jelly flatform, £25. Platforms = the way to see the bands. topshop.com

8. QUAY AUSTRALIA, Misty frame glasses £25. Cover up those bleary eyes with big frames and big attitude. asos.com

11. K.WAY, Le Vrai Claude, £70. Pac-a-mac. Because you just know it’ll rain. k-way.co.uk

9. AMERICAN APPAREL, Leather bum bag, £38. We’ve been championing them for ages, finally they’re ‘in’. americanapparel.net

12. VENTURA, Portable power, £39.99. If you bring one thing, make sure it’s this for weekendlong phone battery. snooper.co.uk

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★ GEAR ★

2 GOT YOUR BACK From a super-advanced trail-running pack (with a whistle), to a handmade, waterproof rucksack to help you keep things stylish (and dry) on the move, these new bags all have one thing in common: they’re tiddly and techy.

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Photograph by David Harrison

Ayacucho’s Fast 12 is billed as a backpack for adventure travel, perfect for hiking and cycling. Chest straps take the pressure off your back, as does the sturdy back support.


CHECKLIST The body wrap harness of Osprey’s new Rev 6 reduces the internal movement which in turn limits fatigue. No more excuses for running three miles instead of six, eh?

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1. TRAKKE, Óg Ventile cotton backpack, £180. The single compartment of this hard-wearing 18L bag keeps your gear in and the rain out. trakke.co.uk 2. AYACUCHO, Fast 12 rucksack, £45. This 12L rucksack comes with handy hip straps (and pockets) meaning your valuables aren’t out of reach. cotswoldoutdoor.com 3. INOV-8, Race elite 16, £81. Stripped-back and lightweight with two front mesh pockets, this is your new compact running buddy. inov-8.com Photograph by ###

4. OSPREY, Rev 6, £60. This tiny bag with an integrated 1.5L hydraulic reservoir will have you running and cycling faster and further. ospreyeurope.com

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CHECKLIST

MORE ESSENTIALS AT FESTIVALBABY.COM

★ F E ST I VA L B E AU T Y ★ Castile Soap’s great for skin, but you can use it to wash hair, dishes, vegetables and clothes, too. You can even use it to clean your teeth, though yes, it does taste like soap.

2 SKIN IN THE GAME We can’t help you return from a festival looking better than when you left, but these products will limit the damage…

1. MRS WHITE’S, Take Flight, 100ml, £15. Organic, vodka-based hand sanitiser. roullierwhite.com

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2. RIEMANN P20, SPF15 spray, 100ml, £13.29. Spray on once and it lasts for 10 hours of action. p20.co.uk 3. DR BRONNER’S, Rose Castile Liquid Soap, 59ml, £1.99. Essential multi-use soap. drbronner.co.uk 4. PRIMAVERA, Balancing Oil Control Lotion, 8ml, £15 (from set). Get rid of that shine. pravera.co.uk 5. CLINIQUE, Turnaround overnight revitalising moisturiser, 50ml, £36. Repair your skin while you sleep (for about ten minutes). clinique.co.uk

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Photograph by David Harrison

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Island Paradise

Whether you’re looking to lounge on a pristine white beach, get a taste of local food or soak up lively Caribbean culture, your perfect holiday awaits at Sandals Barbados

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t’s no wonder Barbados has been given the nickname ‘the Gem of the Caribbean Sea’. This picture-perfect tropical island really does have it all. From a UNESCO World Heritage capital to a jaw-dropping coastline, and lush, wild interiors, it’s idyllic Caribbean scenery at its finest. There’s always something to entice visitors, including festivities, sport, music, nightlife, local traditions and delicious cuisine. With such a dazzling backdrop you’ll want accommodation to match, and Sandals Barbados, the newest addition to the Sandals portfolio, is an excellent choice. Just an eighthour flight from the UK, it’s the ideal base from which to explore this Caribbean jewel.

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BARBADOS BOASTS A JAW-DROPPING COASTLINE AND WILD INTERIORS, PLUS FESTIVALS, FOOD & SPORT

Food and drink

Barbados’ signature dish is Flying Fish with Cou Cou, a locals’ favourite of fresh fried or streamed fish served with corn and okra vegetable. You’ll find it at many of Bajan restaurants, but for something less formal head to the Oistins Fish Market. It’s the island’s most famous marketplace, and comes alive on Friday and Saturday nights – local food stalls line the waterfront and serve freshly grilled fish and other traditional Bajan fare, including fish cakes and jug-jug (guinea corn and green peas), all washed down with the island’s Banks beer. It’s not just food that the market’s famous for – there’s dancing, too, and the Bajans dance


P ROMOTI ON

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: At Sandals Barbados you can dine overlooking pristine sands; St Nicholas Abbey exterior; Barbados offers excellent watersports opportunities; sail away into the sun; CENTRE: Mullins Beach on the west coat boasts calm turquoise water

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JAMAICA

SAINT LUCIA

ANTIGUA

BAHAMAS

GRENADA

BARBADOS

BARBADOS’ ONLY FIVE-STAR

LUXURY INCLUDED

®

RESORT

ALL INCLUDED, ALL UNLIMITED, ALL THE TIME Introducing the new Sandals Barbados opened in January 2015. Distinctively chic. Decidedly luxurious. Unmistakably Sandals. Nestled on one of the most beautiful beaches, it’s the only five-star resort in Barbados that’s designed exclusively for couples. From the decadently romantic suites with private plunge pools and English Guild-Trained Butlers to world-class dining in 11 specialty restaurants, Sandals Barbados is everything you’d expect a Luxury Included® resort to be. Plus, the majority of rooms & suites feature a tranquility soaking tub on the balcony or patio, and no other resort in Barbados includes more unlimited land and water sports like scuba diving†.

TO BOOK THE WORLD’S LEADING ALL-INCLUSIVE RESORTS Call 0800 742 742 | Visit sandals.co.uk See your local travel agent Free for certified divers.

2014

World's Leading All Inclusive Resorts 19 Years Running


P ROMOTI ON

BARBADOS HAS A STRONG CLAIM TO BE THE BIRTHPLACE OF RUM – TRY IT AT THE MOUNT GAY RUM DISTILLERY

arm-in-arm to live hits from the ‘50s, ‘60s and ‘70s. Or for something entirely different, but no less atmospheric, try Bombay Club, Sandals’ first ever Indian restaurant. Barbados has a strong claim to be the birthplace of rum, so a visit to the Mount Gay Rum Distillery is an essential part of the island’s food and drink culture. The distillery was first set up in 1703, and today it’s a brilliant place to discover the colourful history of Mount Gay Rum – you can learn how the rum is made, watching as a Distiller creates the spirit. It’s a chance to discover the different subtleties of flavours in the spirit – try it yourself in a cocktail, or straight, alongside Bajan cuisine. Rum bars line the beaches on the island, so you’ll be sure to sample a few.

Nature and history

FROM TOP: Sandals Barbados is a chic five-star luxury resort designed especially for couples. Elegant interiors combine with incredible facilities; if lounging on the beach doesn’t appeal, make the most of the island’s prime watersports opportunities

Barbados boasts some epic scenery, and a safari tour is a fun way to take it all in. Explore the normally inaccessible forests, remote bays and coastal views by 4x4 Land Rover. Your professional guide will know all the hidden secrets of the island, and it’s a great way to experience the island’s less-trodden territory. At the heart of Barbados you’ll find one of its greatest wonders, Harrison’s Cave. You’ll find it hidden away in the central uplands of the island, near the parish of St. Thomas, in a unique and beautiful setting. First mentioned in historical documents in 1795, the caves lay forgotten until they were rediscovered in 1976. Today it’s a space full of stalactites,

When to travel BARBADOS EVENTS BY MONTH

May sees the island come alive with fun opportunities – yachties take to the sea during the Mount Gay Regatta, the Barbados Gospelfest is a loud and lively music festival and the SOL Rally is a fast-paced driving event. The Crop Over Festival in July/August is a colourful five-week festival tracing back to the island’s history as a sugar producer. At the end of the season there was always a celebration to usher in another successful sugar cane harvest, and it’s still celebrated today. October plays host to the high-octane Red Bull Global Rallycross – join the 21,000-strong crowd of motorcross fanatics at Bushy Park Barbados. If you like your food and drinks, November’s Food & Wine & Rum Festival offers more Bajan cuisine than you could ever imagine. Classical Pops Barbados is a classicalmusic extravaganza – symphony orchestras fly in from around the world for the multi-day event.

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P ROMOTI ON

FROM TOP: Barbados is famous for pristine whitesand beaches, but if you want to explore the coast, try kayaking in the calm water; the main pool at Sandals Barbados is a great place to stretch out in the sun with a book, cool off with a swim or enjoy a few cocktails

stalagmites, streams, lakes and waterfalls, all leading to the dramatic Crystal Room Cave – one of the finest examples of this type of natural phenomenon in the world. Stepping out into the daylight, you can soak up an altogether different kind of island history at St Nicholas Abbey and Sunbury House. Located in the parish of St. Peter, it’s one of the only three genuine Jacobean mansions in the western Hemisphere, and a visit here highlights the early days of the area, and provides insight into how sugar cane was grown, harvested and eventually turned into sugar.

TEAR YOURSELF FROM THE CRYSTAL-CLEAR WATER AT THE WHITESAND BEACH AND ENJOY SWIM-UP SUITES AND BALCONY SOAKING TUBS 94

Sandals Barbados

Chic and luxurious Sandals Barbados, the newest addition to the Sandals island portfolio, is a five-star luxury resort combining the best of Barbados with the brand’s legendary hospitality. Located on the pristine sands of Dover Beach, here the endless Caribbean sunshine is accompanied by gentle ocean breezes and crystal-clear azure water. Tear yourself from the beach (if you can) and you’ll enjoy decadent and romantic accommodation. The suites are fresh and classic, and come with heavenly four-posted beds, while some even have private plunge pools and soaking tubs on the balcony. That’s not the only way to relax – the sumptuous Red Lane® spa combines European and Caribbean traditions to create a relaxing and rejuvenating spa session – indulge in a massage or a hydrating facial to soothe the skin. Outside in the sunshine there’s so much to try. Not only are there swim-up suite options, but the resort comes with Sandals’ signature swim-up pool bar, the perfect place to catch some shade and make the most of Sandals’ creative cocktails. For something more active, the watersports offerings are unrivalled, from a catamaran cruise on the Caribbean Sea – exploring beautiful coves and palm-fringed beaches – to diving and kayaking. When all that fun makes you hungry, there are 11 worldclass restaurants to choose from, with cuisines stretching from Bajan to Indian. And relax… ◆

All Unlimited LUXURY INCLUDED, ALL THE TIME

For over 30 years, Sandals has perfected the Caribbean break, leading the way in luxurious all-inclusive holidays. At Sandals Barbados you can enjoy ‘luxury all-included’– with unparalleled inclusions. That means an array of dining choices – there are 11 world-class restaurants, from delicious Italian cuisine to barefoot beachside dining, via pastries at the French coffee bar. Work it all off with unlimited landsports and a huge selection of included watersports, such as scuba diving for certified divers, kayaking and windsurfing. Afterwards, relax and enjoy unlimited premium drinks.

BOOK by 9 June and take advantage of Sandals’ 2 for 1 Sale, with half price savings on selected travel dates throughout 2015 & 2016! SANDALS.CO.UK/BARBADOS


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COMPETITION

CROATIA ROCKS

Hold up: a festival AND a seven-night holiday? Croatia Wave is offering the chance to win a VIP festival experience for two at Croatia Rocks, the country’s hottest new music festival

Photographs by [top left] (c) 2014. Goran Peresin - GOXMAG / All Rights Reserved; [top reft] KIDKUTSMEDIA. Illustration by Mika Korento

T

here’s a new boy on the Croatian festival circuit: none other than Croatia Rocks. Held on the party island of Pag, on the whitesands of Zrce Beach, this year the festival features acts including The Vaccines, Rudimental and Fatboy Slim for an epic four-day party. With a backdrop of crystal clear waters and soaring mountains, this is more than a festival – it’s a proper holiday, too. We’ve teamed up with Croatia Wave – the leaders in Croatian festival holidays – to offer an incredible VIP holiday experience, including flights and accommodation for two. For your chance to win, head to festivalbaby. com.

croatiawave

HELD ON THE WHITE SANDS OF ZRCE BEACH, IT’S AN EPIC FOUR-DAY PARTY

CLOCKWISE FROM MAIN: Plenty of sunshine is in store at Croatia Rocks on the island of Pag; the festival features all day boat parties with top acts; some of the world’s biggest DJs and bands will be flying in for the fest

HOW TO WIN Croatia Wave is offering the mega prize of seven nights’ accommodation, return flights, transfers, alcohol, queue jumps and access to all the VIP parties at Croatia Rocks. To enter, visit festivalbaby.com/competitions/ croatia-rocks-vip and answer this easy question: in which country does Croatia Wave specialise in festival experiences? Visit the above website for Ts&Cs.

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REAR VIEW

FEELING FISHY This shot of bigeye trevally was captured by Caine Delacy in the Cabo Pulmo National Park, Mexico. The park was established in 1995 and is one of the country’s most successful conservation efforts, with a fish biomass increase of more than 460% between 1999 and 2009.

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Photograph by Caine Delacy/Stocksy

An alternative view of the world


Lavender Fields, Frome

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St Michael’s Mount, Cornwall

EYE CATCHING. The Brisons. Cornwall

MIND BLOWING. Mumbles Pier, Swansea

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Escapism, 19, Festivals  

Escapism Magazine, Issue 19, The Festivals Issue

Escapism, 19, Festivals  

Escapism Magazine, Issue 19, The Festivals Issue