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a day for good deals

Photo credit: 1© Jair Magri, 2© Andréa D’Amato

Morning The money-saving way to get around São Paulo is by using a Bilhete Único to pay for the subway or bus (see how to get one on page 9). Indeed the public transport is the most practical means to get to Centro (Downtown), where you can start the day frugally. To start off, get into any bakery or coffee shop and order a typical São Paulo breakfast that will be right within your budget: bread toasted on the griddle and pingado – or simply coffee and milk. A good choice would be Bar Estadão (Viaduto 9 de Julho, 193, Consolação; 3257-7121), open 24 hours a day, practically every day of the year. If you prefer something more homey, you may sit at a colonial table and pick one of the cakes of the day at Café do Pateo (Pça. Pátio do Colégio, 2, Centro, 3105-6899), housed in the building where the Jesuits founded São Paulo. Nearby, a great place to see free exhibitions is the Banco do Brasil Cultural Center (R. Álvares Penteado, 112, Centro, 3113-3651). Built in 1901, it was the head office of a major bank in São Paulo. Today, it shelters exhibits of important names of the fine arts and photography; its amphitheater receives plays, film festivals and other events. Another construction linked to the financial past of the city is the Altino Arantes Building (R. João Brícola, 24, Centro, 2196-3730), former headquarters of a bank, and one of the postcards of the metropolis. On weekdays, you have free access to the top to admire a beautiful view of São Paulo. Several museums also have free entry on certain days (check the addresses in MustSee Neighborhoods, p. 53). That’s the case of Tuesdays at MASP, on Av. Paulista, and Thursdays at the Museu do Futebol, in Pacaembu. On Saturdays, entrance is free at Museu da cityofsaopaulo.com

Língua Portuguesa, Pinacoteca, and Museu de Arte Sacra, all of which lie in the Luz district. On Sunday, you can keep your wallet untouched if you go to MAM, in Ibirapuera, or the Museu da Casa Brasileira (Av. Brig. Faria Lima, 2705, Jardim Paulistano, 3032-3727).

Afternoon Concrete, iron frames and the promise of a cultural program as varied as that of the Centre Georges Pompidou in Paris. These were the ingredients that gave rise to the São Paulo Cultural Center (R. Vergueiro, 1000, Paraíso, 3397-4002, centrocultural.sp.gov. br), opened in 1982. Encrusted on a hillside beside the Vergueiro subway station, the complex is one of the most popular of the

Cantina do Magrão: just a subway-ride away

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