Spell Magazine August 2020

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A U G U S T 2 0 2 0


Pretty Quick Afro Puff Bubble Pony • Colour: 1 © 2020 Feme Ltd.

AFRO PUFF BUBBLE PONYTAIL Get set to upgrade your updo with the most covetable ponytail out now

To find out more go to www.feme.com EXCLUSIVELY DISTRIBUTED BY FEME LTD. +44 (0)20 8254 3600 - SALES@FEME.COM

s ’ t a h w e d i s n Label.m


T h e n a t io n w i d e l o c kd o w n cer tainly brought about change. F o r t h e f ir s t t i m e , w e m a d e a d igi t a l m a g a z i n e – S p e l l@ h o m e . T h is e xc i t i n g m o v e m e a n t w e c o u l d s t a y e n g a g e d a n d ke e p y o u u p -t o - d a t e w i t h a l l t h e latest developments in the w o r l d of h a i r a n d b e a u t y. A n d , o h b o y, d i d a l ot h a p p e n i n t h r e e m o n t h s! N a o m i C a m p b e l l w a s n a m e d t h e f ir s t e v e r g l o b a l f a c e of P a t M c G r a t h L a b o r a t o r ie s , Sharon Chuter founded the # PullUpOr ShutUp movement, T i kTo k c h a l l e n g e s w e r e a b o u n d a n d W F H h o m e h a i r b e c a m e ‘a t h i n g’. To c a t c h u p, v i s i t i s s u u . c o m /s p e l l _ m a g a zi n e

Th e S pe l l Te a m x


10 UK's Best Braid Destinations

Going for ward Spell magazine w il l c o n t i n u e t o b e p u b l i s h e d i n b o t h p r i n t a n d d igi t a l f o r m a t s . T h a t w a y, w e'l l n e v e r m i s s e a c h o t h e r a g a i n!


Breaking beauty news and hair happenings


A guide to the ultimate glow up


Folklore fashion you’ll want to wear


Top salons with a mighty strong braid game


Spell editor Jemima Cousins rediscovers pleated skirts



Meet make-up artisan Wendy Asumadu





Save money on your hair extensions


20 BECOME THE MASTER OF YOUR MANE It's time to embrace your natural crowning glory

EDITOR Jemima Cousins SUB EDITORS Gemma Rusiecki


WRITERS Jennifer Meredith, Keysha Davis,

The latest news and offers from spellbeauty.com

Gemma Rusiecki, Sue Omar


© 2020 Feme Ltd. Reproduction of the contents of Spell Magazine in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. The views and opinions expressed in this magazine are the author’s own, and may not reflect the views and opinions of Feme Ltd.

P O ' W e’re not askin O g C S for a seat at the us h e in d t l l a h i n w it B u l le t



table anymor e' Interview

Taking creative control, finding your audience & switching off from work


I used to create illustrations for a company that produces greetings cards showing black representation. They were trying to get into mainstream shops, but the retailers gave excuse after excuse not to stock them. So, I decided to try my own thing because I knew that there was an audience out there. Black women are no longer asking for a seat at the table; we’re creating our own tables. And that's how it should continue.

s spe ll m ee t


When creating a new design, I look at social media and other publications to see what’s trending. I also look at what my nieces and nephews are interested in, like cartoons. I keep a list of ideas in my head, and I have so many Pinterest boards! From

Illustrator Fiona Morrison creates positive representations of people of colour with her vibrant children's cards and accessories brand, Fefus Designs. Read the full interview at spellmagazine.com




there, I create drawings and doodles and I play around with colour. If I don’t feel anything towards a design, I know it’s not ready and requires more time. Some of my most memorable customer feedback came from a mother who messaged via a group on Facebook. She said she cried when she saw one of my illustrations because it looked just like her son, and that she'd never seen anything like it before. It's moments like these that give me a reason to keep doing what I do. When I need a creative break, I get out of the house. It's nice to go for a walk or sit in Starbucks and read or listen to music to totally switch off. I come back to my work with stronger creativity.






This month sees the launch of The Curly Store, an online platform redefining the shopping experience for curly-haired ladies across the UK. The site stocks all the essentials plus some great niche finds for you to refresh your look. To find out more head over to thecurlystore.com

Photo by Gift Habeshaw

Earlier this year, writer and broadcaster Emma Dabiri started a petition to amend the equality act to explicitly protect afro hair. In The Hair Equality Report 2019, which highlights hair discrimination in UK schools, 16.6 per cent of parents said their children have had a bad or very bad experience with their afrotextured hair and identity. Stand up and show your support by signing the petition at change.org


Sa ve VS Splurge

Looking for nail inspo? @browngirlhands is the Insta page we didn’t know we needed. A dedicated space for brown girl hand photos, expect aestheticallystylish shots and kooky nail designs.


FENTY SKIN OUT NOW After disrupting the make-up game with the release of 50 foundation shades, beauty mogul Rihanna has turned her attention to skincare. Fenty Skin is being hailed as the “new culture of skincare,” offering a spectrum of personal care products tailored for all concerns.

MUA MAKEUP ACADEMY Shimmer Highlight Powder, £3

MAC TEYANA TAYLOR Mineralize SkinFinish, £27 SPELL



Image courtesy of The Hair Sanctuary

BROWN GIRLS NEED TANNIN’ TOO Because you can never be too melanated…




THE BROWN GIRL TAN The misconception that brown girls don’t need to tan has loomed for years, but where does this beauty myth come from? “People assume women of colour don’t need to tan as their skin is already deemed to be ‘dark’,” says Nicola Christopher, founder of Niksology Clinic and aka The Melanin Specialist. From warm caramel complexions to deep dark hues, women of colour come in an array of stunning shades. And despite popular belief, most self-tanning techniques can deepen even the darkest of skin tones - resulting in a beautifully-bronzed and gorgeous glow. Whether sprayed on or sun kissed, the brown girl tan is a best-kept secret among celebrities such as Kerry Washington and Kelly Rowland, who use complexion boosters to enhance their natural colour. With sunnier days on the horizon and holidays back on, now is the perfect time to catch a tan whether you’re at home or away. THE BEAUTY BENEFITS When it comes to self tanning, you may be surprised to hear that the beautifying benefits go beyond colour. For brown girls, an extra dose of melanin can minimise the appearance of hyperpigmentation, erase ashy undertones and create an even skin tone. “While it may seem that deepening the colour of darker skin is unnecessary, we are here to reap the other benefits too,” Nicola explains. “It’s not necessarily about tanning the skin for WoC, but the benefits of evening out imperfections and the glow instead. This can result in more self confidence, among other wellbeing benefits.” If you are new to tanning, there are many options to consider to achieve your desired results. Essentially, you can use tanning solutions to cover-up specific areas of concern that may be on show - such as scarring or marks on your legs and chest. Or, you can use tanning products all over for maximum impact.

VITA COCO & LIBERATA EVE Blur Instant Sunny Honey HD Skin Bali Bronzing Finish in Foam in Ultra Dark, £29.95 Dark, £29.90

TAN-LUXE The Face Self-Tan Drops in Medium/ Dark, £35

SUN TAN VS. SPRAY TAN It’s no secret that sitting in the sun all day can cause serious harm to the skin. And yes, this applies to brown girls too. “There are many risks associated with sunbathing,” says Nicola. “Prolonged unprotected exposure can lead to skin damage such as hyperpigmentation and premature ageing. Meanwhile, high levels of ultraviolet rays can also increase the risk of skin cancer. I would always advise protecting your skin and eyes with a SPF 30+, sunglasses containing UV protection and a wide brimmed hat.” If you are an avid sun bather, we recommend that you reach for Institute Esthederm After Sun Tan Enhancing Body Lotion (£36). Massage a generous amount of this luminous lotion onto your skin after every sun session for a radiant glow. And for those of us who would rather fake it than bake it, spray tans or self tanning products are the way to go: “The main benefit of spray tanning is that it prevents unwanted skin conditions caused by the sun’s rays,” says Nicola. BOOKING A BROWN GIRL SPRAY TAN Now that lockdown restrictions have started to ease, salons and spas have finally reopened their doors. If you’re planning on visiting a salon or spa for a spray tan rather than embarking on a DIY job, it’s still advisable to do your research and scout out beauticians that specialise in working with darker skin tones. If you don’t know where to start, here’s our melaninapproved list of specialists across the UK: Niksology Skin & Laser Clinic niksologyclinic.com Studio by James Read, Harvey Nichlos hershesons.com Vita Liberata, available at Benefit Boutiques benefitcosmetics.com Lemoge Clinic lemoge.co.uk It’s time to get your glow up, gurrrl!

ST. MORIZ JAMES READ Advanced Coconut Pro Formula Melting Tanning Tanning Balm Mousse Ultra Face & Body, Dark, £7.60 £27 SPELL


READY, SET, BRONZE Top up on tanning essentials…

THE BRONZING MITT Velvotan The Self-Tanning Mitt, £3.99

THE PRIMER Skinny tan Pre Tan Primer, £9.99/125ml

THE ACCELERATOR Elemis Tan Accelerator, £24.30/125ml

THE LOTION St. Tropez Gradual Tan Lotion Medium/Dark, £14.50/200ml

SELF TAN SHOPPING 101 There is now a variety of brown-girl friendly self tanners on beauty shelves. And with more choice available for WoC than ever, it’s important to swatch shades before you make a purchase to avoid disappointment. “Where you can, try to test the shade first as some self tanners can appear ashy on darker skin tones at times,” Nicola advises. From foaming body bronzers to tanning drops, there’s also a range of application methods to choose from to create your perfect look. For instance, if you would like an intense all-over colour, go for a foam formulation or lotion. Alternatively, if you’d like a more subtle self tan, body balms and tanning drops are a great choice for creating flawless results. Here’s our round up of our current self-tanning favourites:











IRIS & INK Shoes, £65

Gray Sorrenti Courtesy of Loewe

Conjuring thoughts of bucolic picnics in countryside meadows, folk fashion is providing us with the romantic escapism we all need


TOPSHOP Dress, £39




What hair dreams are made of

Style Shown: Cloud 9 Braided Wig Goddess Locs - Colour: 613 © 2020 Feme Ltd.

The most natural-looking trends laced to perfection

To find out more go to www.feme.com EXCLUSIVELY DISTRIBUTED BY FEME LTD. +44 (0)20 8254 3600 - SALES@FEME.COM

With salon doors reopen, now is the perfect time to start thinking about your protective summer hairdo. We’ve been giving you the lowdown on the latest trends for the last few issues - from passion twists and knotless braids to spring twists and boho locs. So if you want to join the braid gang this summer, the Spell team has curated a list of salons and stylists who specialise in this year's best looks...





Hey braid gang! Here’s where to go to get your protective styling on


North London

Colourful box braids, faux locs and thick stitch braids are just a few examples of the styles posted on Braids & Beauty Boutique’s social media platforms, demonstrating the versatility of this North London-based salon. Visit braidsandbeautyboutique.co.uk and book an appointment with Ebz, the salon’s braid technician who has over 20 yearsexperience in braiding. @braidsandbeautyboutique


Various locations

Braid Box London is a unique pop-up salon where customers can experience braiding services in a fun, vibrant city setting. This forward-thinking company has previously set up pop-up premises in Canary Wharf and other areas of London. Its mission is to not only let customers experience the art form of braiding, but understand the cultural and historical significance of the technique too. @braidboxldn



Looking for a quick and convenient salon to get a braided style while out shopping? The Braid Bar located in Central London's Selfridges is the perfect spot. This innovative venture opened its doors in 2015, offering a free-standing braiding hub where customers can get express braided styles, such as jumbo boxer braids, at affordable prices via an à la carte style menu. @the_braid_bar



Glam Gorgeous is a Manchester-based freelance hairdressing service that specialises in natural hairstyling for all hair types including European. Founded by hairstylist Gege, her team of highly skilled stylists can be booked for salon appointments as well as home and office visits, offering a level of flexibility and convenience like no other. @glamgorgeoushair






This Glasgow situated salon offers braided hairstyles for all ages and ethnicities. Specialisms include box braids, crochet Senegalese twists, and pick ‘n’ drop. Typically, prices are as follows: medium sized braids start from £115 and crochet braids start from £80. @beautysplendour


North London

Simply Gorgeous is a stylish salon based in North West London that offers a plethora of services for afro hair. The family-run business is renowned for their braid services offered at affordable price points replete with top level customer service. Braids typically start from £55. @simplyg_hair


South London

Zuri Hair Studio’s mission is to become London’s premiere braiding destination. And, judging by the quality of their work, they are already well on their way. The team at this South London-based salon is skillful at slaying a number of popular braided styles including Fulani braids, box braids, knotless braids and passion twists. @zurihairstudio


Bromley, Kent

A quick glace through Braid Bar LDN’s Instagram page will reveal a plethora of braided styles including Fulani ponytails, feed-in braids and tribal goddess braids. This freelance-based braid specialist is based in Bromley and offers the full spectrum of styles. Summer appointments are available now, so get your booking completed pronto. @braidbarldn




If you're considering braids, make sure you have a before and after care plan to keep your hair (including the edges) in tip top condition

Braids are a great way to give your hair a rest from everyday styling, but that doesn’t mean you should fall back on the maintenance. Before installing, prep your hair with Olaplex No3 Hair Perfector, £26. This bond building treatment will strengthen the hair and lessen shedding during take out. Be sure to stock up on scalp oil like Taliah Waajid Phenomon Oil 14, £6.99, to ward off dry flakes. And to get some extra mileage from your protective style, use Cantu Leavein Conditioning Foam, £7.99, to lock in moisture and reduce flyaways. If you want to experiment with colour, check out X-Pression Ultra Braid, £2.99, which comes in a vast selection of block, ombré and dip-dye pastels shades. SPELL



Photo by Shea Moisture


What the ed’s wearing Jemima Cousins discovers her summer uniform – and it involves a pleated skirt.

Embellished accessories and statement pieces for a lady-like edge Fancy holiday hair? Team with on-trend boho braids

Photography by Gus Miller. Hair by Aisha’s Angelz

PLEATS APLENTY Shop the outfit

OLIVIER BONAS Crushed Pleated Skirt, £59.50

Full disclosure: my summer wardrobe

moment leans heavily towards chiffon

has always been a bit haphazard.

midi skirts. My find from Monki ticks all

The unpredictable British weather,

the boxes for being light and floaty as

my attitude of ‘why buy now, wait

well as weighty – which means you’re

for the end of season sales’, plus not

not losing out on the quality.

NEXT Pleated Skirt, £46

being much of a dress or skirt person, have all played a part to my lack of

For a casual flex I wore a basic crop

sunny days’ attire. However, all that

top from & Other Stories paired with

has changed with the resurgence of

some of my favourite accessories. For

fashion’s staple pleated skirts.

variation, try wearing with a slogan tee and pointed heels. Or on cooler days,

Veering away from school uniform

style with a biker jacket or knitted top,

vibes (thank goodness), the style of the

worn loose or tucked in.




DOROTHY PERKINS Black Multi Spot Print Pleated Midi Skirt, £32

Ponytail - Flick • colour: 1B • © 2020 Feme Ltd.

Available in a variety of head swishing lengths from 19 to 27 inches

Go the extra length





Live in colour

Meet the modern-day Picasso of make-up, Wendy Asumadu

The beauty world has taken a shine to Wendy Asumadu for obvious reasons. Her self-styled face canvasses are an unmissable explosion of colour, sitting at the opposite end of the scale to everyday make-up. Finding fame during lockdown, Wendy went viral after posting a video of herself in her bedroom brushing rainbow-coloured face paints across her eyelids. Her IG feed is alight with abstract patterns and a kaleidoscope of graphic scrawls, either modelled by Wendy herself or her friends. "Anything bright is fabulous on dark and deep skin tones," she enthuses. But as we come to discover, there’s a deeper motivation for her fascination with colour... SPELL



You’re a make-up artist, content creator, project coordinator and model. How do you cope with such a wide and diverse workload? I’m constantly finding new ways to balance my workload and make sure I rest. Recharging is so vital when you have a lot of tasks to avoid burning out. I make sure I go for walks, drink plenty of water and take time out to socialise and sleep. Your background is in Fine Art. Did this make it easier to learn how to work with make-up? My work in Fine Art has always been about experimenting, so in terms of aesthetics and the process of how I create my looks, it has definitely been an influence. But even with my background in art I still had to learn a lot about the technical aspects of make-up. Do you ever wear your avant-garde make-up looks out in public? Always! Even if it’s only a bold colour liner, unsurprisingly people do stare at me quite often. I’ve had many types of reactions whether it's positive, negative or odd, but I’ve never been one to shy away from wearing bright colours so I’ve gotten used to it. With every person that stares at me, there's always one person that compliments my look which is sweet and always nice to hear. How does your Ghanaian heritage influence your work? I was surrounded by colour in my life through the Kente and Ditch Wax fabrics that my family wore and still wear. The Kente patterns and fabrics are bold, unique and colourful, which has naturally become part of my work growing up. I think it unknowingly instigated my love for colour and pattern. Besides improving shade ranges, what else could make-up brands do to become more inclusive? Make-up brands need to employ black people to make them truly diverse and inclusive. The #pulluporshutup movement

SEAL OF APPROVAL Black-owned make-up brands championed Wendy

Wendy exhibiting one of her abstract make-up masterpieces came around at the best time as it has brought the lack of black representation in many workplaces to light - especially in leadership roles. How can brands expect to represent and cater to black consumers if they don't have black employees in their workplaces? A lot needs to change, and yes it may take some time, but that will only happen by keeping momentum and holding brands accountable when changes need to be made. How do you feel about the lack of

diversity in avant-garde make-up? It's boring and frustrating. I remember searching avant-garde make-up online and there was not a black person in sight. These moments are what motivate me and it's why I’m always coordinating projects and creating content on black skin. To emphasise this I've created a new platform called @editoralblk to shine visibility on my fellow Black makeup artists who are making space for themselves in the still very white world of beauty influencers.

COLOURED RAINE All That Glitters Liquid Matte Glitter Lip, £15

MDMFLOW Greater Than Mascara, £15

UOMA BEAUTY Black Magic Color Palette, £43 SPELL



Urban Twist - Spring Twist • Colour: 1B. © 2020 Feme Ltd.

Take your twist game up a notch



SUMMER SALE Refresh your look with SpellBeauty.com’s too-good-to-miss postlockdown offers

Fresh Buns

Creating a chic up-do has never been easier with the Feme Bun. Crafted from 100 per cent premium fibre hair, everything from classic ballerina buns to special occasion friendly chignons can be achieved even on short hair lengths and unruly textures. Choose from four fashion-forward styles to cheat your to way to an instantly put-together-look. Now from £6.49 each.

If your hair regime has taken a backseat over the past few months, now’s the time to indulge in some serious selfcare. And as luck would have it, there’s a flash sale on now across Spell Beauty. So grab yourself a bargain and step out of hibernation with a fresh new ‘do. Here are our top picks…

Rare Beauty

Missing Peace

If your post-lockdown tresses are feeling flat and neglected, fear not: Andre Walker Hair has a range of taming rescue saviours now at half price. Treat your mane to its Ultimate Moisture SulfateFree Shampoo (now £5.59) and deeply hydrating styling products (from £7.99), which by the way, have all been devised by Oprah Winfrey’s stylist of 25 years and founder of the hair typing system.

Style Transfer

Turn up the glamour by investing in Rare’s one-ofa-kind 100% virgin remi hair. This premium range of extensions is handpicked and produced without chemicals – resulting in the best strands money can buy. Choose from an array of curl patterns and lengths for serious natural beauty vibes. Use code ‘RARE50’ at the checkout to receive a whopping 50 per cent discount.

Switch up your look in seconds with Clip-In-Glam ready-to-wear hairpieces. Whether you want to rock a head of long luscious locks or try a completely different hue, these heat-resistant onepiece and eight-piece clip-ins come in a range of lengths, colours and textures. And best of all, they’re available now at half price! Perfect for glam occasions, festivals and bloc parties. From £5.99.

Pay day treat

SPELL LOVES Feed your inner product junkie! From mini facial gizmos to waistskimming ponytails, here’s what we’re obsessing over this month...

Ed’s choice

MONAT Makeup Vanishing Balm, £60

FOREO Bear Mini, £179

THE FEME COLLECTION Ponytail, from £14.99 CRÈME OF NATURE Hair Mask, £7.99









A lacking representation of natural hair in the mainstream media and the ongoing struggle for black women to embrace their crowning glory isn’t a new narrative, but it's one Rochelle Hamilton, founder of My Mane, plans to rewrite

It’s a story most of us can relate to: you're getting ready for a big night out and the dress you ordered arrives on time and fits like a glove. Your make-up is the mirror image to the one from the tutorial you spent copious times rewinding. But your hair – and more specifically your natural hair – just doesn’t play ball. So what do you do, cancel the entire night? her own tutorials, which have proven to be a viewing hit. “If I'm honest, the popularity and demand for my hairstyle tutorials took me by surprise," she says. "Every hairstyle I filmed was the first time I’ve ever tried it on myself.” When it comes to self-love, Rochelle says: “I’m on a journey to better care and love my natural hair. I genuinely wanted to create and share exciting hairstyles that can be enjoyed by everyone. I think about different scenarios, events or places that I would once worry about how I could wear my natural hair and then find a style that would I feel would compliment that particular vibe.” Founder of My Mane Rochelle Hamilton This was a common quandary for 29-year-old Rochelle Hamilton who, like many black women, had been conditioned into thinking her full head of lustrous coils wasn’t good enough. Or, in this instance, glamorous enough to even make the outfit. Rochelle admits: “During the critical years of finding myself as a young woman, I began to recognise that the image I saw in the mirror didn't fit the western representation of 'beauty'.” As a young black woman working in construction, Rochelle had experienced discrimination on many levels. It may come as a surprise to learn that even in a male dominated industry, her textured crown still came under scrutiny. “The lack of representation in the media of women like myself with brown skin and coily hair really played in to my insecurities at the time,” she says. Putting in the graft Determined to heal the psychological wounds attached to her hair, Rochelle took matters into her own hands and chose to rewrite her hair’s narrative. The first step was embarking on DIY/ self-love natural hair journey. It didn’t take long before she started making

Healthy Hair Reset The second step to what Rochelle refers to as her 'Healthy Hair Reset Journey' was to set up online platform My Mane. “I created My Mane to empower women who choose to wear their natural crowns," she says. "The aim is to help others embrace, nurture, protect and grow healthy afro hair.” Offering four-week online hair journey courses and product recommendations, Rochelle is now on a mission to grow her platform further: “I mentor women aged between 24-27 and I aim to share my knowledge with them. I believe to be the representation we need for ourselves and the younger generation. We have to strive not to be dependant on external validation, learn our heritage and be proud of who we are.” Sound advice When it comes to the practicalities of going on a natural hair journey, Rochelle has some inspiring advice: “Your hair journey should be a part of your lifestyle. Rather than striving for length, aim for healthy hair. If you've had a bad relationship with your hair in the past, you'll need to rebuild it. Remember the more you love and care for your hair, the more love it will show you in return.” For more natural hair inspiration visit mymane.co. SPELL



POSITIVE AFROMATIONS Inspirational hair quotes from My Mane's IG feed @mymane

THE SPELL-OMETER What’s hot and what’s not in the world of Spell



Launches, promos and discounts you don’t want to miss



QUEEN CANDICE Candice CartyWilliams became the first black British author to win the Book of the Year prize at the British Book Awards 2020.

GOING FOR GOTHAM Javicia Leslie will be taking over the role of the title character in season two of Batwoman. Catch up now on Channel 4.

ELECTION TIME Kanye West for president? It’s a no from us.

Cleanse your wigs and weaves at home using Dr. Bronner’s Pure-Castile Liquid Soap. Full of natural and organic ingredients, it’s gentle enough not to strip the hair or effect its texture, but powerful enough to clean and rejuvenate your hairpiece for a refreshed look.

NO DEAL We salute Michaela Coel’s rejection of Netflix’s $1 million offer to retain ownership of her work for the brilliant I May Destroy You.

SAVE THE MURALS Vandalism of Black Lives Matter murals is now being classed as a hate crime. Spread love.

MIDI MANE The most fashionable hair length of the moment - the midi cut - ticks all the boxes for style and practicality. The Feme Collection’s Teased Midi exceeds expectations when aiming for a natural, comfortable version of this look in wig form. With a four-inch lace freedom parting and scalp-like closure, it’s perfect for creating a fabulously effortless new look. Available in seven trendsetting shades.



Always one to make a statement, Taraji P Henson captioned this Instagram pic: ‘Hair that grows towards the heavens!’ If you’ve got your sights set on heavenly hair too, the African Collection Afro Kinky Bulk hair is manageable and easy to install. And if you want to emulate her colour, choose shade BG for your new ‘do!

Sneezing away? The Organic Pharmacy’s natural homeopathic remedies will ease discomfort.