Grapevine | by Trevor Burton Photograph courtesy of Jim Hicks
piedmont
wines Italy’s Piedmont, that is
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p in the northwest corner of Italy, in the foothills of the Alps, is a wine region that puts out some of the best wines in the world. This region is home to the Nebbiolo grape. You can come across Nebbiolo in a few other parts of the world, including California. But it’s in Italy’s Piedmont that it truly shines. Nebbiolo derives its name from the Italian word “nebbia,” which means “fog.” That’s appropriate because during the harvest season in late October a deep, intense fog sets into the area where vineyards are located. The star of this region is a Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) wine called Barolo. Barolo is, in my opinion, Nebbiolo in its finest incarnation.
Lake Norman Currents | August 2010
It’s About Time Nebbiolo in the Barolo region is all about time. The grapes blossom early and are harvested late, sometimes as late as November. They spend a lot of time soaking up the sun, and along the way they pick up all kinds of goodies that find their way into a glass of wine. This is a full-bodied wine; lots of deep, dark fruit, spices like cinnamon and a nice light floral aspect. But what always hits me in the taste buds is a smoky and 44
licorice background that kind of hangs around while the other flavors take their turn. And it has a finish that goes on forever. It’s beautifully complex and, for me, that’s what scratches my wine itch. This is a wine that’s so distinctive that, taste it once, you’ll never forget it. You’ll probably be able to pick up the aroma of a glass of Barolo from across a crowded room. If you do, head for it right away. Time comes into play in a second phase, the aging of the wine. Barolo is aged for a minimum of five years. Drink it young and the tannins in the wine almost bowl you over. This wine needs time to soften out and balance itself. But it’s more than worth the wait. There’s a little bit of controversy going on in the aging department. Traditionally, Barolos have been aged in large barrels made from Croatian oak. More recently, some wine makers have been trying to add a little gentler character to the wine by aging it in smaller barrels made from new French oak; softening the wine and bringing in a hint of vanilla. Which is better? I don’t know, but high on my bucket list is to try several of Barolo, the finest incarnation of the Nebbiolo grape.