“ PEARL IS OFTEN CONSIDERED A GEMSTONE, ALTHOUGH IT IS NOT A MINERAL. RATHER, PEARL IS A COMPOSITE OF THE MINERAL ARAGONITE (CALCIUM CARBONATE) AND THE ORGANIC COMPOUND CONCHIOLIN (A PROTEIN). THE COMBINATION IS CALLED NACRE OR MOTHER-OF-PEARL.
66 | spaandwellnessinternational.com
desirability was heightened because men risked their lives to collect them by hand from the deep ocean floor - and still do today. “They were the most valuable and prized gem for thousands of years,” says David Warren, senior international jewellery director at auction house Christie’s. In 1917, the pearl reached what in retrospect seems like its high point. Morton Freeman Plant made a deal with jeweller Pierre Cartier: Plant would give Cartier his Fifth Avenue mansion in exchange for $100 and a necklace of 128 natural pearls. The pearls were then valued at US$1 million. Today, the house is now Cartier’s flagship store on New York’s Fifth Avenue! Over time, like many gems, pearls have gone in and out of vogue. Coco Chanel is attributed to the renaissance of pearls, says Ms Chadour-Sampson. Chanel wore several ropes of pearls in varying lengths, and turned them into haute couture and fast fashion, mixing real pearls - whether natural or cultivated - with glass and plastic. Chanel’s effortless everyday use put pearls in women’s jewellery boxes all around the world. At the turn of the 20th century, Japanese entrepreneur Mikimoto Kokichi revolutionised the industry by commercialising cultured pearls. Scarce natural pearls, retrieved by hand from the seabeds, were replaced by a scientific endeavour, changing the economics of the pearl industry. The pearl became much more available and therefore affordable. This scientific intervention also lead to the creation of more spectacular pearls. The exact value of the global pearl industry is unknown. However, it is very clear that the environment and over-cultivation, and the effect these have on sustainability, must be considered for its longevity. You need a pristine marine ecosystem to produce highquality pearls. Climate change is having a huge impact with more regular typhoons and hurricanes wiping out whole harvests. Also the increased acidity and rising temperatures of the water make it harder for oyster shells to form. While Erica is aware of the potential threats to her industry, there are a lot of proactive steps being taken to ensure the pearl continues to be admired as both an art form and treasured piece of jewellery for centuries to come. Her focus now is to evolve with the industry, create beautiful designs, and ensure Australia is still revered as one of the best suppliers of quality pearls - and opals in the world! www.ikecho.com.au