Park By Jennifer Bradley Franklin
Delicious in Every Season
Sometimes the best secrets are hiding in plain sight, like decadent truffles buried just below the surface of the forest floor, waiting to be foraged. Discovering Park 75, tucked into the second level of the Four Seasons Hotel Atlanta, feels like such a discovery: delicious and not altogether expected.
alking up the stately grand staircase, beneath a glittering chandelier, one might expect for the meal ahead to be stuffy, pricey and boring. A visit to Park 75 couldn’t be further from that with Four Seasons veteran Robert Gerstenecker at the helm, the menu fresh and creative. And while it’s admittedly not a budget option for dining in the city, each dish is priced fairly and practically leaps off the plate with freshness and thoughtfulness. The entire Park 75 experience impresses, from the friendly hello at the discreet host desk to the complimentary order of still-steaming Holeman & Finch sourdough bread, served with Vidalia onion butter and crunchy Maldon sea salt. My guest and I chose to go all out, starting with the charcuterie plate of house-made citrus duck prosciutto, its gamey flavor delicious and unmistakable, accompanied by spiced blueberry compote and tart pickles. Starters here are special and run the gamut from light and airy to so hearty they just might spoil your main course. In one standout dish, giant pieces of lobster are layered with feather-light truffle gnocchi and braised leeks, and in another, barbecued pork is tucked inside al dente ravioli, served with a celery leaf salad, crisp fingerling potatoes and braised cabbage. For a signature dish of the South, the trio of deviled eggs is traditional, done really well with cornichons, house-cured bacon bits and smoked paprika. Though before I arrived I had no idea that Park 75 identifies itself as “a Southern steakhouse,” one look at the menu left no doubt, since it’s weighted heavily toward meats (there are some lovely fresh-from-the-sea options). However, to assume that Park 75 is just like any number of other steakhouses in
Chef robert gerstenecker at the Burger Bar
Published on Mar 8, 2013