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SOUTH EAST LONDON JOURNAL No.14 No.11 THE FOOD T H E M U SICISSUE I S SU E 1


SE LONDON JOURNAL


“One cannot think well, love well, sleep well, if one has not dined well.”   — VIRGINIA WOOLF


SOUTH EAST LONDON JOURNAL

WELCOME NOTE Welcome to No.14 – The Food Issue. Early in the process of putting this Journal together, it became apparent that there would nowhere near enough pages in one issue to thoroughly cover South East London’s food offerings. With that in mind, it’s best to delve into this issue as though it is part one of an ongoing series.

For this issue, it has been a joy to discover the new and wonderful places to eat in Deptford’s exciting food scene, to hear from projects and charities in South East London who understand that food is so much more than fuel for the body - it is a way to bring people together and combat social isolation. We hear from local producers and have recipes from some of our favourite restaurants. We also have a beautiful photostory of a normal day at East Street Market, shot on film by Alex McLuckie, as well as a round-up of food items that are made locally across South East London. We hope you enjoy reading No.14 – The Food Issue, and a huge thank you as always to the businesses who have supported the Journal, keeping it free and accessible for everyone to enjoy please do support their businesses and let them know you saw them in our pages! The upcoming winter Journal No.15 – The Drink Issue will be a companion to this one; expect lots of coffee, tea, cafés, breweries, distilleries and a fair amount of festive cheer thrown in for good measure! SELJ x

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SOUTH EAST LONDON JOURNAL A free local culture journal Issue No.14 — The Food Issue E D I T O R + C R E AT I V E D I R E C T O R jessica@selondonjournal.co.uk DESIGN polly@selondonjournal.co.uk SUB-EDITOR Fleur Treglown ADVERTISING advertising@selondonjournal.co.uk info@selondonjournal.co.uk www.selondonjournal.co.uk @selondonjournal COVER PHOTOGRAPH Alex McLuckie

Whilst every effort has been made to ensure accuracy, South East London Journal does not accept liability for any errors or omissions within this issue. Reprinting of any article or original images from South East London Journal without express permission of the Editor is expressly forbidden. © South East London Journal 2018


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SOUTH EAST LONDON JOURNAL

_CONTENTS culture calendar _p.8

food edit _p.12

deptford food scene _p.16

pastificio mansi _p.22

masala wala _p.28

drums & flats _p.32

east street market _p.34

999 club _p.44

peckham cart project _p.46

peckham food cycle_p.47

inside a crofton park home _p.50

children's what's on _p.66

minibeast sugar cookies _p.70


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SOUTH EAST LONDON JOURNAL

M IK A ROT TEN BU RG TIL 04 NOV Mika Rottenberg presents new and existing work in an exhibition that will run throughout Goldsmiths CCA’s seven galleries. Featuring two new films, the artist’s work for the exhibition will respond to the building incorporating purpose-built installations alongside sculptural objects. She juxtaposes the vulnerabilities and strengths of her protagonists within uncanny interpretations of our physical world. G O L D S M I T H S C C A , S E 14

TWELFTH NIGHT

C U L T U R E

0 2 O C T - 17 N O V

Shakespeare gets a shake-up as soulful melodies and R&B beats weave through this enchanting musical adaptation of Twelfth Night. This celebration of love in all its forms features an awe-inspiring community chorus from Southwark and Lambeth with music and lyrics by the critically acclaimed songwriter Shaina Taub. YOUNG VIC, SE1

MIDCENTURY MODERN

19 N OV

Set in an incredible space at Dulwich College with its floor to ceiling windows, Midcentury Modern is the go-to place for anything from a original Cherner chairs to a contemporary piece from emerging British designers. You can source wallpaper, ceramics, cushions, gifts as well as collectable vintage furniture and home ephemera. D U LWI C H C O L L EG E , S E21

S I LV E R S U N D AY

07 O CT

Silver Sunday is an annual day of fun and free activities for older people across the UK. Led by the Sir Simon Milton Foundation, it aims to celebrates the value and knowledge older people contribute to our communities, whilst combating loneliness and isolation. From 11am til 3pm, Horniman Museum and Gardens are hosting a drop-in day of activities open to all. HORNIMAN MUSEUM AND GARDENS, SE23 8


SOUTH EAST LONDON JOURNAL

HALLOWEEN: 40TH AN N IVERSARY SCREENING 10 O CT

This iconic horror film returns to the big screen in time for All Hallows' Eve. Unveiling a digitally restored and remastered print, the screening includes a pre-recorded introduction from the director, John Carpenter. G R EEN WI C H P I CT U R EH O U S E , S E10

26 OCT

Bugged Out! returns to South London's spook-tacular disco hot spot, Bussey Building for another Halloween takeover. Bringing certified disco legends TBA, Wolf Music and Rye Wax alumni Medlar, Bugged Out's very own Lemmy Ashton, Boiler Room's local hero Grainger, disco devotees Raw Silk and Music Box Radio's Deaf By Disco. Expect ghostly surprises and ghoulish greetings. B U S S E Y B U I L D I N G / C L F A R T CA F E . S E15

R O U G E S H A L L O W E E N D I S C O AT RIVOLI BALLROOM 27 O CT

Non-stop 70s and 80s disco ghoul funk night with DJ Kobayashi, this promises to be a horror journey back to the boogie. With live music from The Kick Thrills, expect a thriller of a disco set. RIVOLI BALLROOM, SE4

G R I E F C A S T: A L I V E R E C O R D I N G 16 N OV

One of London's great green spaces, Dulwich Park in SE21 makes the perfect setting for cinema under the stars. The Oscar-winning Three Billboards follows a mother personally challenging the local authorities to solve her daughter's murder when they fail to catch the culprit. D U L W I C H P I C T U R E G A L L E R Y, S E 2 1 9

C A L E N D A R

BUGGED OUT! HALLOWEEN DISCO


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SOUTH EAST LONDON JOURNAL

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FOOD EDIT —local producers

PURE RADISH — LONDON FERMENTARY, SE16 This Bermondsey-based fermentary make delicious products packed with billions of good gut bacteria in small batches - their Sicilian Peach Kefir is also one our favourites!


CRAFT JERK 2 HOTSAUCE — HOP BURNS & BLACK, SE22 + SE8 Hop Burns & Black's jerk BBQ sauce was created in collaboration with their pals at Slow Richie's. Deliciously vibrant Caribbean spices, a touch of Brick Brewery's US Brown Ale and a decent kick of heat makes this an essential BBQ accompaniment.

SEASONAL BLEND GRANOLA — ROCK MY BOWL, SE4 Rock my bowl was founded by Brockley based foodie Rebecca. Rebecca started baking her small batch gourmet granola in her home kitchen and selling it at Druid Street market. Fast forward two years and there’s a production kitchen in Bermondsey and over 10 independent stockists nationwide. This seasonal blend of orange, chocolate and hazelnut is autumn in a bowl! BROWNIES (OREO, HONEYCOMB) — SOUTH EAST CAKERY, SE15 With a reputation that precedes them, South East Cakery's brownies are dangerously good. They cut and crumble their honeycomb into delicious chunks, blending them throughout and topping the brownie to create a beautiful, crushed golden finish.

BREAKFAST FIZZ MARMALADE — THE BIG GAY AL, SE6 Home-made by Catford local and food-lover Al, this celebratory marmalade features added prosecco and cointreau – perfect for a special occasion brunch!


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24/09/2018

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BATCH ONE HOT SAUCE — PECKHAM SAUCE CO. SE15 A Dutch chilli and Scotch Bonnet blend that Peckham Sauce Co ferments with garlic, paprika, mustard seeds, coriander and cardamom to create a flavour like no other. Made locally in Peckham, it's packed with mouthwatering freshness and fragrance.

SMOKED SALMON, SASHIMI GRADE — LONDON SMOKE & CURE, SE19 Cured in their own blend of juniper-infused salt and gently smoked over beech, oak and heather for a subtle, clean flavour, London Smoke & Cure use the highest-grade Scottish salmon. This is under-smoked so it’s as close to sashimi as possible, then sliced thickly for a firmer, more pleasant texture.

SNACKINGHAM — SERIOUS PIG, SE15 Peckham's Serious Pig infuse the finest British pork with a special blend of herbs and spices. It's then cured and air-dried in the traditional way, before being sliced to produce a tasty bite-sized snack. It's a great great alternative to crisps, and also a recipient of a Guild of Fine Food Great Taste Award.

UNION RAW HONEY — BERMONDSEY STREET BEES This 'union' honey is a country curation: a carefully selected blend of raw English honeys from countryside beekeepers who share the Bermondsey Street Bees' philosophy of careful beekeeping and artisanal production. The lid of each jar bears its individual provenance and tasting notes.


With a wave of newcomers now sitting alongside Deptford's culinary institutions, the area's food scene has never been more exciting. Here, we highlight a few of our favourites.

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DEPTFORD FOOD SCENE

MARCELLA

BUSTER MANTIS

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BUSTER MANTIS Tucked under the railway arches just off Deptford High Street is Buster Mantis, an understated, family-run bar, kitchen and creative space which specialises in authentic Jamaican food. Their pop up vegan menu is currently getting much-deserved attention, featuring standout dishes such as smoked thyme ricotta dumplings, thyme butter, mizuna, pickled red cabbage as well as a hearty stew of braised aubergine, mushrooms and okra, with gungo rice and peas.

ISLA RAY With autumn definitely here, the tropical, plant-filled interior of Isla Ray is perfect for those not quite ready to let go of summer. Situated on Deptford High Street, simple yet delicious brunches and lunches are served during the day, with a snack and sharing menu for the evening – think flatbreads topped with anchovy, olives and mozzarella, ideally washed down with cocktails, wine and local beers from the extensive menu. Isla Ray also promotes itself as a platform for creatives, with bimonthly exhibitions, bench space to work remotely and decks for small music events.

PHO HANOI For fresh Vietnamese, look no further than this local institution. It’s a quick and easy, order-eatgo kind of place, cash only and expect to queue on a Saturday night! The menu is full of highlights such as the mor ning glory, bun cuon and of course, pho.

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SOUTH EAST LONDON JOURNAL

MARCELLA A relative newcomer to Deptford High Street, Marcella is all about simple, seasonal Italian cooking. The menu changes weekly, but you can expect starters such as pork jowl, romesco, almonds followed by mains like casarecce, lamb ragu. The three course £20 set menu on a Sunday is a popular affair which runs all day and is best washed down with an Aperol or something from the strictly Italian-only wine list.

SANXIA RENJIA Celebrating the food of Sichuan and Hubei, earlier this year Sanxia Renjia received a colourful yet glowing review from Jay Rayner. He implores you to go beyond the Cantonese classics and instead tur n your attention to their menu page entitled ‘Adventurous Dishes’. While delicacies such as boiled pork blood curd may be a little too adventurous for some, the rest of the menu offers more approachable options such as whole seabass with wild chilli sauce and clay pot curries loaded with flavour.

STOCKTON BAR Stockton is Buster Mantis’s little brother. Whereas the latter was inspired by the owner’s youth in Jamaica, the former is inspired an adulthood spent in South London. Situated directly opposite the recently reinstated iconic anchor, the food is designed to reflect the diverse range of tastes this area has to offer. There is a revolving door of resident chefs, with schoolmates Klose and Soan currently serving up small plates and flatbreads Tuesday to Saturday, and Ol’ Factory taking the reins on Sundays with vegan tacos.

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THE TAPAS ROOM Another of the Deptford Market Yard arrivals, The Tapas Room offers a small but refined selection of tapas, charcuterie, cheese and deli items. The main fare however is an impressive curated selection of Spanish and Basque wines, sherries, Cava, vermouths and craft beers, all chosen with the aim of encouraging drinking better for less.

DIRTY APRON After opening two years ago in one of the grade two listed arches of Deptford Market Yard, Dirty Apron has become a mainstay of Deptford’s cafe scene. Popular with the locals during the week with its hearty breakfasts, soups, salads and classics, weekend visitors are welcomed from further afield as they descend on the markets of Deptford. The cobbled outside seating area is shared with neighbouring arches and has a chilled piazza feel, a perfect spot from which to watch the world go by. Move inside to enjoy the cozy brickwork space where you’ll find the kitchen and coffee machine working hard to serve the passing people of Deptford.

THE GREENHOUSE The Greenhouse is an independent coffee shop situated between Deptford and New Cross. There is a focus on great coffee, and a menu which boasts locally and ethically sourced produce such as free range heritage meat from Stockings Farm in Chilter n Hills, organic non-homogenised milk from grass-fed cows from Goodwood Farm in Chichester, British organic free range eggs, artisan sourdough bread from the Flour Station, directly traded coffee from Alchemy and local pesticide-free juices from Chegworth Valley.

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SOUTH EAST LONDON JOURNAL

PA S T I F I C I O MANSI

Italian-born, Peckham-based Emanuela Mansi began Pastificio Mansi from her kitchen, selling fresh pasta through a Lewisham market scheme. Six years on and now based in her own professional space, she sells her delicous pasta to the markets, restaurants and shops of London. WHAT LED YOU TO ESTABLISH PASTIFICIO MANSI IN 2012? Pastificio Mansi was bor n through my passion for good, honest food combined with my career crafting intricate jewellery. I grew up in Italy, discovering the world from under the kitchen table in my father’s restaurant, watching him test and repeat new recipes until they were perfect. When I moved to London I found a culinary renaissance taking place and knew I wanted to be part of it. Around 2009 my boyfriend went to New York to work for over three months, so I spent most of my time with friends and every Sunday we made fresh pasta. I fell in love straightaway because it reminded me of my jewellery making school, so I decided to go back to Italy and lear n the art of making fresh pasta from professional sfogline in Bologna. When I moved back to London, I started to trade in a small farmers market to see if people were interested in my product. Well I am still making it, so yes – they were! YOU TRAVELLED AROUND ITALY, LEARNING THE PROCESS FROM LOCAL SFOGLINAS – CAN YOU TELL US MORE ABOUT THOSE EXPERIENCES AND HOW THEY INFLUENCED YOU? I believe I’ve been very lucky to have the honour of working with masters. In all the pastificio I worked in, the sfogline were quite old (between 60 and 80 years old) and they gave me so many tips, tricks and – of course – life advice, as every grandma does! I was amazed by how fast and precise they were. Unfortunately, in Italy there are not many people still interested in making fresh pasta from scratch. It's a hard job and very time consuming if you’re not fast enough, and suddenly young generations are not interested to in lear ning it.

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Llewelyn’s is an independent, neighbourhood restaurant open for lunch and dinner. We use simple, seasonal ingredients and our menu changes daily.

Tuesday – Friday Lunch 12 – 2.30pm, Dinner from 6pm Saturday Lunch 12 – 3pm, Dinner from 6pm Sunday Lunch 12 – 3.30pm

020 7733 6676 Book online at www.llewelyns-restaurant.co.uk @llewelynslondon Check our weekday lunch specials 293 – 295 Railton Road, Herne Hill, London SE24 0JP


YOU MOVED FROM PRODUCING IN YOUR KITCHEN TO A SPACE IN PECKHAM; DID THIS HAVE A GREAT EFFECT ON THE BUSINESS? When I started at the market in 2012 I was making pasta in my tiny kitchen at home, and as soon I started to get busy I moved to a professional kitchen in Peckham. This gave me the opportunity to grow as a business, and to employ more people too. YOU RUN WORKSHOPS, CAN YOU TELL US MORE ABOUT THESE? We run two different pasta workshops: the basic class, where you lear n how to make different dough from scratch and then we shape simple pasta like tagliatelle, spaghetti, farfalle, sorpresine, orecchiette and strozzapreti. In the advanced class, we make the dough and then shape around six different filled pastas. We also run pasta classes for kids and birthday parties.

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SOUTH EAST LONDON JOURNAL

WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE PRODUCT THAT YOU MAKE? I love tortellini. WHAT ARE YOUR PLANS FOR THE FUTURE? I would like to open my own restaurant!  WHAT OTHER LOCAL PRODUCERS SHOULD WE KNOW ABOUT? I love cakes from SE Cakery in East Dulwich, bread from The Hill bakery in Camberwell and Brick House in East Dulwich. And dining at the supper club @peppeckish at The Hill Station Cafe.  WHERE ARE YOUR FAVOURITE PLACES IN SOUTH EAST LONDON? I love going for coffee at the Small White Elephant in Peckham. The atmosphere is always very relaxing and Jehn and Dale are very friendly. I feel at home there.  The pizza at Made of Dough on Bellenden Road in Peckham is incredibly good. Copeland Park and Bussey Building – there’s always something going on there.  Also, Dulwich Picture Gallery, Dulwich Park, and the farmers market and beautiful park (with dinosaurs!) in Crystal Palace. PASTIFICIOMANSI.COM

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MASALA WALA CAFÉ Maslala Wala CafÊ is a colourful celebration of Pakistani cuisine from the Punjab region with a small freshly cooked menu showcasing vibrant flavours and traditional ingredients. Run by inspirational mother and daughter duo Nabeela and Saima, Masala Wala Cafe has rightly ear ned its place as a much-loved South East London institution. We are lucky enough to have Saima share her recipe for the house favourite, Channa Masala.

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SOUTH EAST LONDON JOURNAL

SAIMA: Channa Masala is a Punjabi staple in any south Asian household, and this vegan dish is packed with healing spices and protein, a go to for me growing up and especially now since my recent Non-Small Cell lung cancer diagnosis – it’s a quick way for me to get healthy nutrients and flavours in one hit. While undergoing treatment my tastebuds changed and have become sensitive at times, so this dish is great as I can alter the spice by adding or removing the chilli powder which brings the true heat to the dish.  The other spices are aromatic and mild on the palette so very suitable for all tastes.  I hope you enjoy creating this simple dish. Long live channa, my favourite!  

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MIDCENTURY MODERN DULWICH COLLEGE LONDON SE21 7LD SUNDAY 18TH NOVEMBER 2018 10AM–4PM 85 dealers and designers

£10 entry on the day pre-show discounts at modernshows.com

Selling fruits and vegetables, bread, cheese, local beer, cured meat, dairy, store cupboard groceries, wine and more. Also offering gift vouchers & selection boxes for christmas. @ jonesofbrockley jonesofbrockley. com

In association with

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SOUTH EAST LONDON JOURNAL

INGREDIENTS

METHOD

2 tbsp vegatable oil

Toast the cumin seeds in the vegetable oil in a

1 tbsp cumin seeds

pan until fragrant

Half bulb garlic, peeled and blended

Add the blended garlic, onion and ginger and fry

2-3cm ginger, peeled and blended

for 5-10 minutes until brown

1 large white onion, finely chopped or blended

Add all of the spices and a little splash of water.

1 cinnamon stick

Cook until the spices have combined, stirring

1 tbsp crushed coriander seeds

constantly during this process so the masala

1 tsp chilli powder

base does not bur n

1 tsp curry powder

Add the tomato paste and chopped tomatoes,

1 tsp garam masala

bringing to a high heat and then simmering so

1 tsp tumeric

the spices cook out – this should take 10-15

Salt to taste

minutes

400g tin of chopped tomatoes

Add the drained chickpeas and stir through

1 tbsp tomato puree

Cook for two more minutes so the masala and

2 400g tins of chickpeas, drained or equivalent

chickpeas combine

amount pre-soaked and cooked

Gar nish with coriander and serve with basmati

Fresh coriander gar nish

rice or roti flat breads

Saima is writing about her experiences as a Pakistani restaurateur living with cancer at CURRYANDCANCER.COM @CURRYANDCANCER  MASALAWALACAFE.CO.UK @MASALAWALACAFE


DRUMS & F L AT S Influenced by their city, the music they grew up

Season your chicken wings! At Drums & Flats,

listening to, the food they ate at home (and on

we use our own signature seasoning on all of our

the way back from school), Drums & Flats was

wings. This acts as a base seasoning in which

created to do more than just serve good food,

the wings are marinated for 24 hours... but the

but to share the energy, passion, culture and

recipe is a well-guarded secret! We'd definitely

style that the streets of South London gave its

recommend seasoning your wings in advance

founders. Growing up together, Khamisi and

and remember there is more to seasoning than

Daniel have always had a passion for chicken

just salt and pepper.

wings; fuelled by a commitment to produce the best-flavoured wings in the city – and a vibe to

STEP 2: Zest 6 whole unwaxed lemons onto a

match – in 2015, the pair set up Drums & Flats,

baking tray. Add 2 cups of whole black pepper-

taking their passion for wings to the people of

cor ns and leave in the oven for 15-20 minutes.

London. Following a series of pop ups, kitchen takeovers and events, they opened their first

STEP 3: You're looking for your lemon zest to

permanent location at Peckham Levels in De-

tur n a light golden colour. Once cooked, place

cember 2017. In the years leading up to that,

the roasted peppercor ns and lemon zest into

Khamisi and Daniel spent countless days and

your spice grinder or Nutribullet, add the thyme

nights in between each others’ kitchens trying

and blend until you get a fine consistency.

to perfect their recipes. Here they give us one of those perfected recipes for Lemon Pepper

STEP 4: Flour the seasoned (or unseasoned)

Chicken Wings.

wings. Warm a deep fat fryer or pot of oil to 170C. Gently place the wings in the oil and fry

INGREDIENTS

for 7-10 minutes, depending on how many wings

1 kg chicken wings

you're able to fit in your fryer or pot.

6 unwaxed lemons 2 cups whole black peppercor ns

STEP 5: Drain any excess oil off the wings on

2 cups lemon juice

some kitchen roll. Warm the butter in a sauce-

1/2 cup thyme

pan and allow it to melt. Once the butter is

125g unsalted butter

melted, add the wings to the pan and allow them

3 cups all-purpose flour

to catch some of the butter. Once the wings are coated in butter, pour 2 cups of fresh lemon

EQUIPMENT

juice over the wings and continue gently mixing

Coffee/spice grinder or Nutribullet

around.

Deep fat fryer or large cast iron pot STEP 6: Now add your wings to a mixing bowl THIS IS A REALLY SIMPLE RECIPE BUT ONE OF

and add a 1/4 cup of the lemon pepper mix.

OUR FAVORITES AT DRUMS & FLATS.

Make sure all of the wings are properly coated; you can add a bit more of the mix if needed.

STEP 1: Preheat the oven to 120C. We like to remove the tips from our wings and

Now just plate up, add some lemon wedges for

separate the drum and flat. This isn't a require-

gar nish and enjoy! (Goes perfectly with an ice

ment though, and they can be served as the full

cold beer.)

three joint wings.

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SOUTH EAST LONDON JOURNAL


PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALEX MCLUCKIE WORDS BY FLORENCE WARD 34


SOUTH EAST LONDON JOURNAL

EAST STREET MARKET

SE1


Halfway up the Walworth Road, opposite a Morrison’s and a Costa, East Street Market is open six days a week. Its offerings are eclectic: food stalls are nestled amongst those selling watches, wigs, cleaning products, greetings cards and second-hand clothes. The produce on offer ranges from mountains of fruit, veg, eggs and jam from local farms, to yams, cassava and durian fruit. Although it’s only a mid-week mor ning, the street is buzzing with customers’ conversation and the cheery shouts of stallholders selling their wares. Trading in Walworth first began in the 1500s when farmers from Kent and Surrey would rest their livestock on Walworth Common before heading to the city. Locals in the area would buy directly from the Costermongers (vegetable sellers) and so a market was established. During the Industrial Revolution, the market could be found on Walworth Road itself, and the goods on offer expanded to include clothes and homewares. In 1875, when an electric tram route was constructed down Walworth Road, the traders were forced to relocate to the surrounding streets of Westmoreland Road, East Lane and Draper Street. While the markets on Westmoreland Road and Draper Street have


since been swallowed up by housing developments, East Street Market is still thriving nearly two hundred years later. East Street is the go-to for locals to do their shopping. Old ladies walk up and down with their trollies, making idle chatter with the traders. Big supermarkets would usually pose a threat to smaller businesses like those found here, causing many cherished, family-run shops to fall by the wayside, but despite its proximity, Morrison’s seems to coexist peacefully with the market. It’s easy to see why: not only is the food on sale here affordable and sold without reams of unnecessary plastic packaging, but the service feels much more intimate. I buy ten large apples from an elderly man called Sam, who is wearing a suit and tie. He tells me proudly that he has traded here all his life, and now occasionally comes to help his son on the stall. He charges £1. In 2011, Walworth locals voted for Southwark Council to erect a blue plaque commemorating the market’s rich history. The plaque states that it is "Continuing to serve", which couldn’t be more true. The atmosphere is charmingly un-hip, there is not a coldbrew coffee shop or a sourdough bakery in sight. Instead, people are here for real shopping, stocking up on washing-up liquid, digestive biscuits and nighties. Not only does the market fulfil the demand for affordable local produce, it is also an integral part of the community, serving the people here in more ways than one. Earlier this year, a scheme was launched in collaboration with two charities to provide fresh fruit and veg vouchers for low-income

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families as a way of tackling childhood obesity. East Street Market is more than a business – it’s a public service. Needless to say, East Street has changed a lot since the 1500s – as well as potatoes and eggs, you can now buy exotic fruit, mobile phone cases, dashikis, football shirts, perfume and noodles cooked to order. But although the market’s product range has expanded, the 16th-century farmers of Walworth Common and the traders of today have common ground in more than just the literal sense. East Street and the surrounding area have always been home to people passing through from other places, sharing their wares along the way (be it vegetables from a farm in Surrey or necklaces from an Arabian jeweller). The fabric of the market lies in its status as a cultural meeting point, and the community here has formed itself around that – developing from an informal deal between peasants and farmers on a muddy patch of Walworth, to an established, though humble, shopping destination. Walking amongst the stalls, one trader shouts across to his neighbour, “Weather’s not looking too nice! Was supposed to be 23 degrees today!” They both grumble. East Street may be home to produce from across the world, but nothing could be more South East London than two rival stallholders chatting about the weather.


999 CLUB

9 9 9 C l u b i s a D e p t f o rd - b a s e d c h a r i t y p ro v i d i n g i n v a l u a b l e services for homeless and vulnerably-housed people in Lewisham and South London. T h e y o ff e r a d v i c e , a d v o c a c y, s h e l t e r, e m p l o y a b i l i t y s u p p o r t , h e a l t h c a re a n d a c t i v i t i e s f ro m t h e i r c e n t re o n D e p t f o rd B ro a d w a y. T h e y a l s o i m p o r t a n t l y p ro v i d e e v e r y d a y h u m a n n e e d s s u c h a s a p l a c e t o s h o w e r, d o laundry and eat a meal in a safe e n v i ro n m e n t . Can you tell us about the role food plays in the 999 club? Food is an important component of the 999 Club – from cooking healthy and hearty evening meals and providing breakfast for our shelter guests, to the cookery workshops which are run by Greenwich Cooperative Development Agency as part of a programme of activities at the centre which are designed to enhance life skills, as well as boost confidence and self-esteem. Guests also cook for their peers. Jakub and Willies were among those who have enjoyed cooking at the centre using chicken donated by Nandos, to create healthy and tasty meals.

To find out more about volunteering at the 999

Can you tell us a bit about how important

Club, please contact LEON@999CLUB.ORG or

volunteers are at 999 Club?

for info or to donate: WWW.999CLUB.ORG

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For the first time, the 999 Club has opened the

inaugural Summer Shelter earlier this year, the

doors of its night shelter year-round, with more

charity co-hosted its first community Big Lunch

beds and extra staff to provide a safe, warm

in Deptford with the Bear Church and Bench

place to stay thanks to a £116,000 grant from

Outreach. Around 150 people enjoyed free

the gover nment’s Rough Sleeper Initiative. This

food, drink, live music and lots of sunshine at

is great news but also means the 999 Club is in

the event, which was a great chance to meet

need of more local volunteers.

neighbours and friends. The support of the wider

Volunteers are invaluable across all aspects of

community is an intrinsic part of the success of

the 999 Club. They can bring anything to the

the 999 Club.

table, we don’t specify as it is great to get different people with different interests and skills

Volunteer Jeremy Franklin says:

involved – we just ask that volunteers are over

“It is rewarding, and it is good to meet different

eighteen years old.

people and get other perspectives, I’m a singer, and in the creative industries, it’s all about what

The Big Lunch was a brilliant community affair.

you are doing for yourself.

Can you tell us more about it?

It’s nice to take a step back from that and real-

As part of a fundraising campaign for the club’s

ise life doesn’t have to be all about that.”

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PECKHAM CART PROJECT profits going to the Refugee Project.

We made the decision to collaborate with Manuel last summer, filling his doughnuts with Peckham FoodCycle jam and distributing them to local cafes and bars. Sam and I have now taken over the Peckham Cart project from Manuel and will focus on growing its social impact, breadth of foods offered and transitioning from community project to sustainable social enterprise. How would you like the project to evolve and develop? In its original form, Peckham Cart was a direct response to the refugee crisis, and a way to address the gap in funding experienced by small charities. In its new form, Peckham Cart will Peckham Cart currently donates all the proceeds

take a triple benefit approach that will have a

from doughnut sales to the Southwark Refugee

positive impact on local producers, the local

and Migrant Project, which plays an important

community and community projects.

role in supporting refugees and migrants with

In short, we want to profile and support local

employability workshops and social activities.

projects such as the Glengall Wharf Community garden, the Southwark Refugee and Migrant

Why did you started the project and what were

Project, and the Southwark Day Centre for

your aims?

Asylum Seekers and Refugees. We are hoping to

Sam and I helped set up and run the

develop a recipe box with Southwark Day Centre

Peckham FoodCycle hub because of a shared

for Asylum Seekers and Refugees in

hate of food waste and a shared belief that food

collaboration with people using the centre. If

has an amazing ability to connect and create

local people are engaging more within the

community. At FoodCycle we started getting

community and with each other it can only make

more fruit than we could use, so we decided to

for a more inclusive, kinder Peckham.    

set up a jam making project, selling the jam to raise funds for the project. On a food

How can people help or get involved?

collection trip we bumped into Manuel, a

Buy doughnuts or hire us for your wedding! We

professional French baker who arrived in

want to expand and would love any business

Peckham 25 years ago with a taste for high

brains to help us think things through.

quality baked goods and social justice. Passionate about the rights of immigrant and refugees,

What are your favourite food tips in SE London?

he became – and remains – a component part

Sam (the other half of Peckham Cart) is a chef at

of Southwark Refugee Project. When austerity

Forza Win so I have to say that!

slashed funding, Manuel set-up the Peckham

Also Ganapati is my default, Taco Queen is great

Cart Project, a static cart in a shopping centre

– in fact Peckham is spoilt for choice!

from which he sold his bread and cakes, with all

@ PECKHAMCARTPROJECT

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SOUTH EAST LONDON JOURNAL

PECKHAM FOODCYCLE The FoodCycle initiative is simple yet very

Where does the food come from?

effective – to nourish communities using surplus

We collect the food from local supermarkets and

food. We caught up with the Peckham FoodCycle

shops we’ve built relationships with. The food

Project to find out more.

may have passed its sell-by date, but is still perfectly safe to eat – and delicious. We also

What are the aims of Peckham FoodCycle?

have relationships with local allotments who

To strengthen communities by bringing people

provide lovely organic vegetables for our meals.

together around a healthy meal. This tackles both food poverty and social isolation by

What FoodCycle guest have to say about it?

creating spaces for people from all backgrounds

"Since coming I have the strength and courage

and walks of life to eat and have fun together.

to build things up for my future, trying to make

We also change attitudes to food by cooking

my life easier and happier".

with surplus ingredients and spreading our

"Thank you for everything you do at FoodCycle.

passion for food and the environment.

It really helps in so many ways and I don't know where we would be without you guys. Many

Who joins Peckham FoodCycle for dinner?

thanks."

Our guests come from a variety of different backgrounds and we are open to all. Many of our

How do people get involved or volunteer?

guests say that they are on a very low income

They can sign up at volunteer.foodcycle.org.uk.

and worry about where their next meal will come

There is no minimum commitment, just sign up

from. Others are experiencing homelessness or

online and pick a date when you are available.

housing insecurity, or come for the company and

We're sure you'll love it!

a chance to eat with others. In fact, guests often say that they initially came for the food, but they keep coming for the company, friendship and community.

WWW.FOODCYCLE.ORG.UK


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SOUTH EAST LONDON JOURNAL

3 . o N R E T P A e H m C _ho

49


INSIDE A CROFTON PA R K HOME


Mina Holland is a journalist, editor and writer

specialising in food, drink and lifestyle. She lives with her husband Freddie Denham-Webb, a

composer and sound designer for commercials,

film and theatre, and Ernie, their two-and-a-halfyear-old whippet.


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How long have you lived in your home?

We moved in on Wimbledon women's final day

2017, so are approaching 18 months in the area. What drew you to this flat and Crofton Park in general?

We were initially drawn to Crofton Park by the house prices and the transport links. We'd

previously lived with Freddie's mum in West Hampstead and – seeing as a writer and a

musician are unlikely ever to be able to afford it

round there – started looking for areas that were on the Thameslink train line, so we could get to our respective workplaces directly (I'm at The

Guardian, on the Saturday Feast section, three

days a week, and Freddie's studio is still in NW6). We liked that we could afford a Victorian property with two bedrooms in the area and that there are

lots of green space options for the dog. I have to say though that the real clincher that seduced us to Crofton Park was Jones of Brockley – as soon as I knew I'd have easy access to good bread,

good cheese and good wine, I was sold on the neighbourhood.

Our flat is a purpose built maisonette, occupying the whole ground floor of a double fronted terraced property, with its own front door and

garden. All of that was a huge draw. We liked that it had been built to be lived in its current layout, with five equally sized rooms, and that it had a south facing garden, which was in almost

constant use over the heatwave summer. It

needed a lot of work when we bought it – we were both eager to do a renovation and have

the kitchen, bathroom, etc exactly as we wanted them after nearly three years of living with parents.

How did you find the renovation process?

Everything needed updating. The renovation

process was pretty smooth, mainly because we

found the most brilliant builder in Fatlum Smajlaj

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SOUTH EAST LONDON JOURNAL


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SOUTH EAST LONDON JOURNAL

and his team, but also because Freddie and I

focussed on different aspects of it, complementing one another pretty well. I drew out how I

wanted the kitchen units to be arranged, was

pretty opinionated about the colour scheme, and was in charge of the more decorative aspects

like tiles, while Fred is pretty obsessive about the details like lighting, switches, inbuilt wardrobes

and hooks, which I really appreciate now, but at the time I think I felt life was too short!

All of the rooms work together in a calming and

aesthetically cohesive way, were you conscious to design it in it’s entirety from the outset? Not really. We knew we were

going to do up as much of it as

we could afford at once, but we never approached it thinking it needed to come together as a

cohesive whole. I think maybe that happened organically,

because it's a straightforward

expression of us – the materials

and colours we like, our furniture and possessions.

There is a grounded warmth given to the space from the

restricted pallet of both colour

and materials - the raw plaster, concrete, plywood and neutral tones - can you tell us a little more about this?

We wanted to rely on tiles (with which I have a longstanding obsession) and objects like

ceramics, my cookbook collection and flowers to introduce colour into the space, so it

seemed logical to have a neutral backdrop. Lighter colours also made sense given the limited

space – the flat is only 750ft but feels bigger, I think because of

the colour scheme we went for. We'd both always wanted a

concrete work surface, which

was one of only two things we

really splashed out on (the other was the bathroom floor tiles

from Bert and May), and the raw


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SOUTH EAST LONDON JOURNAL


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SOUTH EAST LONDON JOURNAL

plaster walls were inspired by Freddie's mum's

both chop, mix, whatever at the same time. I also

painted after they were skimmed, and we all love

out, so we could have a drink with friends while

living room – she never bothered having her walls the textured effect and the peachy colour. Our

'statement wall' in the living room was unplanned – when the old wallpaper was pulled off, this

was revealed, and again, we loved it. It makes a good backdrop for the aerial photograph hung

on it. The plywood was Freddie's idea, the result of obsessive Pinterest boarding and months of

lusting! When we found out we could have those units made for a similar price to an Ikea kitchen, it was a no brainer.

Given your work as a food writer, what were your

requirements for the beautifully executed kitchen? Lots of storage space! I had collected so much kitchen stuff over the years – utensils, pottery,

books, glassware, obscure ingredients – which heretofore had been sitting in boxes. I was excited to give them all a home in my own

kitchen, and to have easy access to them, but

wanted a kitchen in which we could just hang

getting supper ready, for example – a working

living space, as it were. Which it is: I frequently choose to write in the kitchen over the office,

looking out onto the garden as I procrastinate. Being able to step out and grab a handful of

rosemary or a couple of bay leaves while I'm cooking still feels like a luxury.

Where are your favourite places to eat in South East London?

161 Kirk in Sydenham for small plates and natural wine. Theo's pizzeria in Camberwell – the best

pizza in London, and don't even get me started on their aubergine parmigiana. The Camberwell Arms because it is everything a pub should be

and more. Ganapati in Peckham for the takeaway of dreams – I love their thali and their parathas particularly.

it was very important to us (mostly to Fred) that

What are your other favourite South East London

space was essential. As was a dishwasher, for

All of the above, Jones of Brockley, the parks

the kitchen was uncluttered. So good cupboard marital harmony. I was dead set on getting a

double sink – my mother's sage advice, so you can wash one thing and drain another at the

same time. Plenty of surface space so we could

haunts?

(mostly Hilly Fields, Beckenham Place, Peckham Rye, Sydenham Woods) and Brockley market. @MINAHOLLAND

PHOTOS: THE MODERN HOUSE


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4 . o N R E T P A s H e i C l i m a _f

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SOUTH EAST LONDON JOURNAL

_ W H A T ’ S

ON THE ROAD 23-28 OCT

LAURA DOCKRILL: ANGRY COOKIE 24 O CT

GROTESQUE 25-26 OCT

Some people feel at home wherever they are. Others spend their whole life looking, wandering, longing for a place to put down roots and call ‘home’. But what exactly makes a home, what does it mean? On The Road is a wordless story told using sound, dance and movement to explore what it feels like to be a refugee and the universal need we have to belong.

Can you be a bit of an angry cookie? Laura Dockrill’s hilarious new picture book Angry Cookie is all about helping your little one understand anger. Join Dockrill for a fun-packed family event where you and your child explore what makes them angry and how they can cope with those feelings in a creative way.

In preparation for Halloween, make your own comic or repulsive character inspired by ghoulish faces from the Gallery. Over two days, learn how to sculpt hideous gargoyles and funny figurines using clay and plaster.

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SOUTH EAST LONDON JOURNAL

_ O N

STORY TELLING AND DRAWING WORKSHOP WITH EMILY RAND 28 OCT

WONDER 10 N OV

CHILDREN'S BOOK FAIR 17-18 N O V

Join Tate Publishing author and illustrator Emily Rand for a workshop around here book, The Lost Property Office. Emily creates picture books inspired by her surroundings and that celebrate the tiny details and beauty of everyday life.

In this adaptation of R. J. Palacio’s bestselling children’s novel of the same name, Jacob Tremblay (Room) delivers a masterful performance as Auggie Pullman, a young boy born with a facial deformity who tries to fit in at a new school. A Kids' Club Subtitled screening: exclusively for children and their parents or carers. This screening also has subtitles for people with hearing loss.

Now in its third year, the SLG Children’s Book Fair features some of the best independent publishers in the UK. Discover inspiring new reads, buy a gift, or take part in workshops, readings and other special events by leading children’s writers and illustrators.

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TOOLS Wooden rolling pin Minibeast cookie cutters Baking sheet Baking parchment Wire rack Non-stick mat Silicone rolling pin Paintbrush INGREDIENTS 200g unsalted butter, softened 200g caster sugar 50g cocoa powder 350g plain flour, sifted 1 free-range egg, lightly beaten 35g black sugar paste Edible candy eyes Sprinkles Black, white and red icing writers Yellow mini chocolate beans

MINIBEAST SUGAR COOKIES! Minibeasts have never tasted so good! Did you know there are over 25,000 different types of minibeasts in the UK alone? Peckham-based BKD have shared one of their yummy cookie recipes with us – follow the step by step guide on how to make your very own creepy crawlie biscuits. You can go looking for inspiration on a minibeast hunt in your local park or garden while you wait for the dough to cool!


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SOUTH EAST LONDON JOURNAL

MAKE THE SUGAR COOKIES STEP 1 Beat the butter and sugar together. Stir in the flour, cocoa powder and egg. Using your hands form the dough into a ball, knead lightly until combined and then flatten the ball and wrap in cling film. Freeze for about 30 minutes for best results.

SHAPE AND BAKE STEP 1 Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/Gas 4. Place a piece of baking parchment the size of your baking sheet on the work surface and sprinkle over a little plain flour. Knead the dough briefly, and then roll it out to around 5mm thick. Sprinkle with more plain flour while rolling out to prevent sticking. STEP 2 Take the cookie cutters and cut out your minibeast shapes. Leave the cookies on the baking parchment and transfer to the fridge for a further 20 minutes, to prevent spreading in the oven. Bake the biscuits for 7–9 minutes, depending on size. Leave to cool a little, then transfer to a wire rack.

DECORATE THE SPIDER STEP 1 Dust the non-stick mat with a little icing sugar. Roll out the black sugar paste to about 4mm in thickness, using the silicone rolling pin. Cut out the black spider to cover your cookie. STEP 2 Stick the sugar paste shapes to the top of the cookies using a little water on a paintbrush or your finger, dab directly on to the biscuit. Secure by gently sweeping the pad of your index finger over the surface in a circular motion. Continue until all your spider cookies are covered. STEP 3 Use the icing writers to add details to your spiders. Use the white icing writer in an oval shape for the mouth, then use the red and black icing writers to add details once it has dried. Add googly eyes and sprinkles.

ENJOY!

RECIPE TAKEN FROM 'BAKED' BY ADELLE SMITH. BKD-LONDON.COM

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@SELONDONJOURNAL @ S E LO N D O N J O U R N A L

Profile for South East London Journal

South East London Journal - No.14  

The Food Issue. Autumn 2018.

South East London Journal - No.14  

The Food Issue. Autumn 2018.

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