RRECENT REPORTS show that 82 percent of Gen Zers consider the resale value before buying apparel, and 64 percent seek secondhand options before purchasing new (Source: Capital One Shopping Research). Here, Jake Disraeli, co-founder & CEO of Treet discusses how the platform helps brands take control of their resale markets—generating a new revenue stream and offering a more sustainable way for their products to be rehomed.
SOURCING JOURNAL: Why are brands that used to shy away from branded resale now embracing it?
Jake Disraeli: Brands are recognizing that their consumers are already participating in resale on third-party marketplaces, and by not capturing that activity, they are missing out on both a massive revenue opportunity and a clear path toward reducing their emissions. Resale not only boosts their sustainability credentials and customer loyalty, but also signals to customers that their products are meant to last.
Treet works in the background to power these experiences on our brands’ behalf, designing and building custom resale programs that meet their specific brand needs; whether it’s peer-to-peer (P2P), trade-in, reselling returns, selling off-price units and samples, or a combination of all models. Our goal is to alleviate 99 percent of the work needed to launch and manage these programs. As resale becomes table stakes, brands not offering it risk falling behind, and we believe the majority of apparel brands will offer some type of resale program by 2030.
BUILDING BRANDED RESALE WITH TREET’S VARIED PROGRAMS
Having launched nearly 200 branded resale programs, Treet recently secured $10 million in funding to fuel expansion. Where are you putting those resources?
J.D.: The funding has been primarily applied toward product innovation and our mission of ensuring every item created lives its longest life. This includes our APIs that enable deeper integration with our brands’ fulfillment solutions, global expansion across Europe, and countless other new features we’re building.
Can you cite a case study and the ROI?
J.D.: Ministry of Supply launched their resale program with Treet in August 2023 to help customers buy/sell items to each other (peer-to-peer) and for the brand to sell inventory they’ve never been able to sell on their main site, like returns, production units, samples and slightly damaged items. When their P2P sellers opt for credit payout, they spend an average 264 percent of that credit back on their main site. Sellers list items from their order history in a matter of seconds, then receive up to 115 percent of the selling price in store credit or a lesser value in cash.
Buyers browse a secondhand experience that feels firsthand with stock photos, original prices, product descriptions, and more. In
“TREET ENABLES BRANDS TO BOOST LTV BY DRIVING REPEAT PURCHASES AND FOSTERING POST-PURCHASE ENGAGEMENT THROUGH RESALE.”
JAKE DISRAELI , co-founder & CEO, Treet
total, resale now contributes to 5 percent of Ministry of Supply’s annual revenue, representing an integral part of their growth strategy.
What makes Treet’s resale models unique from other solutions on the market?
J.D.: We’re the only resale solution brands can onboard within a matter of days, not months, and our automated marketing engine helps resale programs grow with little manual effort. With Treet’s stackable resale modules, brands can mix and match resale models to create their perfect program, then easily expand over time.
Given how turnkey our solution is and how obsessive we are about building features that help programs grow over time, brands of all sizes can build highly profitable resale programs on the platform.
How does Treet increase longterm value (LTV) with customers?
J.D.: Treet enables brands to boost LTV by driving repeat purchases and fostering post- purchase engagement through resale. With our P2P model, an average 72 percent of sellers choose brand credit over cash, leading them to spend an average 278 percent of the credit back on the brand’s main site. Additionally, nearly half of resale shoppers are new to the brand, making resale a powerful tool for customer acquisition. By embracing resale, brands can secure their resale market, reduce their environmental impact, and differentiate themselves from competitors. ■
Drive Revenue. Dodge Landfills.
Your brand’s resale market is growing with or without you.
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EDITORIAL
Peter Sadera Editor in Chief, Sourcing Journal
Kate Nishimura Senior News & Features Editor
Angela Velasquez Executive Editor
Jasmin Malik Chua Sourcing & Labor Editor
Vicki M. Young Executive Financial Reporter
Meghan Hall Business Editor
Glenn Taylor Logistics Editor
Alex Harrell Staff Writer
Lauren Parker Director FMG & SJ Studio
Sarah Jones Senior Editor, Strategic Content Development
Andre Claudio Staff Writer, Strategic Content
ART DEPARTMENT
Ken DeLago Art Director
Logan Case Senior Designer
Eric Pak Senior Designer
Trinity Krakora Designer
SOURCING JOURNAL ADVERTISING
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PRODUCTION
Anne Leonard Production Manager
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FAIRCHILD MEDIA GROUP
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ADVERTISING
Hillari Lazzara Senior Vice President, Sales
Samantha Rumsky Advertising Director
Jennifer Petersen Advertising Director, Fashion & Luxury
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INTERNATIONAL OFFICES
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MARKETING
William Gasperoni Vice President
Christine Staley Senior Director, Marketing & Fairchild Studio
Sara Shenasky Head of Client Activation
Barbra Leung Director, Integrated Marketing
Alexa Dorfman Senior Marketing Manager
Kayla Gaussaint Associate Integrated Manager
OPERATIONS
Ashley Faradineh Director, Operations
Rosa Stancil Media Planner
Emanuela Altimani Senior Sales Coordinator
SOURCING JOURNAL IS OWNED AND PUBLISHED BY PENSKE MEDIA CORPORATION
Jay Penske Chairman & CEO
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Craig Perreault Chief Digital Officer
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Celine Perrot-Johnson EVP, Operations & Finance
Paul Rainey EVP, Operations & Finance
Tom Finn EVP, Operations & Finance
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Ken DelAlcazar EVP, Finance
Debashish Ghosh Managing Director, International Markets
Dan Owen EVP, GM of Strategic Industry Group
Brian Levine Sebior Vice President, Revenue Operations
Brooke Jaffe Vice President, Public Affairs & Strategy
David Roberson Senior Vice President, Subscriptions
Scott Ginsberg Head of Industry, Performance Marketing
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Scott Ginsberg Head of Industry, Performance Marketing
Sonal Jain Vice President, Associate General Counsel
WE, THE CREATORS OF TEXTILE GOODS, ARE THE MOST EXPERIENCED AND KNOWLEDGEABLE ABOUT WHAT GOES IN, WHAT TO DO WITH IT, AND HOW TO MAINTAIN THE BEST VALUE.” Krystle Moody, Materevolve
8 Indirect Consequences
While Scope 3 emissions make up the bulk of overall GHG emissions, they can be the hardest for industry players to address.
12 Is a Fast-Fashion Tax the Solution?
From France’s “kill bill” to Australia’s recycling levy, global leaders are exploring fast fashion taxes to hold brands (and consumers) accountable.
16 Green Gridlock
Artificial intelligence has the potential to improve sustainability outcomes, but the technology is energy intensive to train and use.
20 Washington Eyes Sustainability
A coalition of Democratic Members of Congress have asked the USDA for information on how to support farmers and ranchers engaged in cultivating sustainable materials.
24 Heat Check
Climate change is forecasting a grim future for the Global South.
30 The Benefits of Being Close to Home
Los Angeles’ burgeoning footwear community has an added arrow in its quiver— sustainability.
36 The India Opportunity
Canopy said an investment of between $13 billion and $15.6 billion is needed to build India’s infrastructure to support the production of next-gen fibers.
40 Fashion’s Race for Circular Polyester
Bottle-to-textile polyester is on its way out as a sustainable solution. Can a textile-to-textile version replace it?
46 Blue to Green
5 ways mills are innovating sustainable denim.
54 URBN Planning
Urban Outfitters is putting an increased focus on sustainability and ethical practices as it continues to expand and evolve.
66 Sage Advice
Women sustainability experts share what it takes to have a successful career.
72 Revolutionary Recyclers
Three radical entrepreneurs are transforming fashion waste into sustainable apparel through innovation, integrity and a circular economy approach.
HOW ADVANCE DENIM REDUCES ITS RESOURCE IMPACT THROUGH RECYCLING AND RENEWABLE ENERGY
FFROM a new indigo recycling system to utilizing cutting-edge lasers and ozone technology, Advance Denim, which produces in Vietnam and China, is enhancing its sustainable offerings, furthering its commitment to reducing its environmental impact.
Here, Mark Ix, director of North American marketing at Advance Denim, discusses how these advancements are helping the China-based denim mill transform its operations and set new standards for sustainability in the denim industry.
SOURCING JOURNAL: What are some of Advance Denim’s latest sustainable developments?
Mark Ix: Advance Denim was the first denim mill in China to widely adopt organic fibers. Since then, we’ve consistently increased our use of sustainable fibers each year, and 2024 is no different. Earlier this year, Advance Denim introduced Blue Loop, an innovation in indigo dyeing that enhances circularity in the process. This advanced indigo recycling system employs membrane separation technology to extract indigo dyestuff and water from effluent, which is liquid waste or sewage discharged into a river or sea. With a 98 percent recovery rate for both indigo and water, Blue Loop enables Advance Denim to reuse indigo, creating a more sustainable—and less wasteful—dyeing process.
On the topic of pushing the sustainable needle forward, how does the membrane bioreactor in your wastewater treatment facility contribute to maintaining water quality and sustainability in the finishing process?
M.I.: The membrane bioreactor uses a combination of microfiltration and ultrafiltration along with a biological wastewater
treatment process. Microfiltration is a physical filtration process that uses a membrane filter to separate particles and microorganisms from a liquid while ultrafiltration is a physical separation process that uses a semipermeable membrane to filter out large molecules or solid particles from a liquid stream. This ultrafiltration will remove the solids and salts from the sludge, producing water that can be reused in the production process.
How does Advance Denim’s investment in state-of-the-art lasers and ozone equipment at its development center enhance the sustainability and quality of the jeans produced?
M.I.: Advance Denim is not a jeans manufacturer, but we are in the process of developing samples for global presentation. Our production approach is substantial, as we aim to create the most sustainable jeans possible.
To achieve this, we utilize cutting-edge lasers and ozone technology, which minimize water and chemical use. Additionally, since many of our customers employ lasers and ozone in their own production, we focus on ensuring that our jeans are both reproducible and sustainable.
“ADVANCE DENIM IS COMMITTED TO THOROUGHLY EXAMINING EVERY ASPECT OF THE DENIM PRODUCTION PROCESS TO ADDRESS VARIOUS SUSTAINABILITY CHALLENGES.”
How has the current sustainability landscape shaped the priorities and goals you have for 2025?
M.I.: Advance Denim is committed to thoroughly examining every aspect of the denim production process to address various sustainability challenges. In 2021, we launched an ambitious photovoltaic [solar power] generation program. With the first phase now complete, we are generating 6,839 kilowatt-hours (kWh) of power per day.
Our goal for 2025 is for at least 40 percent of our power to come from renewable sources. We are actively exploring technologies to enhance sustainability across all our processes. For example, in fabric
inspection, we have partnered with a local startup to integrate artificial intelligence (AI) into the inspection process. This collaboration aims to streamline the process, benefiting our operations and manufacturing partners.
How is Advance Denim working with the industry to scale up sustainable solutions?
M.I.: Our general manager Amy Wang is committed to transforming denim production through sustainable fabric innovations. She collaborates with leading global fiber producers and implements cutting-edge technologies such as Blue Loop indigo recycling and Big Box waterless dyeing. ■
MARK IX , director of North American marketing, Advance Denim
MEMBRANE SEPARATION TECHNOLOGY
INDIRECT
While Scope 3 emissions make up the bulk of overall GHG emissions, they can be the hardest for industry players to address.
over the course of the past several years, brands have laid out ambitious targets related to climate impact and emissions reduction. But as the months fly by and the industry inches closer to its deadlines, many companies seem to be stagnating—or worse, backsliding.
J Research from Stand.Earth released last year showed that greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions have continued to rise—in spite of these commitments—from a pre-pandemic baseline, with energyintensive manufacturing activities like material processing, dyeing and finishing making up the bulk of the carbon outputs
These “purchased goods and services,” characterized as Scope 3 emissions, make up 70 percent or more of most brands’ GHG footprint.
The fact that the lion’s share of brands don’t own their own mills or factories doesn’t mean they should be sitting on the sidelines, according to Rachel Kitchin, senior corporate climate campaigner for fashion and IT at Stand.Earth. But that’s what they’re doing by saddling them with the responsibility of making the fundamental changes necessary to build a healthier supply chain, she believes.
“The reason that emissions are not coming down— or certainly aren’t coming down fast enough—is that brands are really only tackling the low-hanging fruit at this stage, when it comes to working with their suppliers to actually phase out fossil fuels,” she told Sourcing Journal.
The root of the issue is that apparel manufacturing is still heavily reliant on energy derived from coal and natural gas.
“There are several key levers that brands really need to be engaging in order to actually have an impact on their emissions, and a lot of these, they’re certainly not addressing with enough urgency,” she explained.
“One of the biggest ones, according to several different studies, is renewable energy,” she added—transitioning away from coal to renewable thermal processes, for example, as well as supporting factory transitions to self-generated solar or wind power or Power Purchase Agreements to get off the fossil-fuel grid.
If it sounds like a heavy lift, that’s because it is. The renewable energy transition will take “a ton of collaboration” between brands and their suppliers, “but brands are just not investing the kind of resources into
their supply chain that it’s going to take to make that transition happen, and make it happen fast enough.”
Kitchin said she takes issue with the idea that Scope 3 emissions are fundamentally outside of brands’ control, “because ultimately, the brands have created the conditions which make it challenging for suppliers to transition.”
“By squeezing on prices, by constantly pushing on the margins and shoving responsibility for emissions and for their entire environmental policy onto suppliers, they are basically asking the impossible,” she said. “Suppliers have to make these energy transitions become more sustainable while still providing the same amount of volume at the same price and the same quality.”
Knowing the razor-thin margins that the industry operates on, it’s no wonder that without the security of sustained business from brands or a good-faith cash infusion, many suppliers are unable or unwilling to pony up the funds to revamp their operations.
“Brands have a really important part to play here, which is that they actually need to invest in their supply chains and invest in a meaningful way,” Kitchin added. “They need to have long-standing relationships with suppliers that provide confidence that they will still be there, buying from them, sourcing from them, during the time that it takes for the manufacturer to improve its processes.”
What’s more, brands and fashion firms need to provide up-front capital investments—cold, hard cash—to get on-site renewable energy infrastructure
CONSEQUENCES
by Kate Nishimura
NINETY PERCENT [OF SCOPE 3 OUTPUTS] ARE INDIRECT EMISSIONS, AND WHAT THE BRANDS ARE WAKING UP TO IS THEY DON’T HAVE AS MUCH LEVERAGE TOWARDS SUSTAINABILITY GOALS UNLESS THEY’RE WILLING TO PAY.”
James Cooper, WSP
development or a transition to a PPA off the ground.
“I think we’ve seen a lot of big words come out of brands—not just fashion companies, but all kind of companies across all sectors. Commitments that have not been met. And that’s a huge problem,” Kitchin said. “It’s getting to the point where consumers, the public and regulators are more aware of this greenwashing narrative, of brands getting the big PR moment for making an announcement and then never ultimately following through.”
It’s possible that brands signed onto lofty goals not knowing how difficult and costly remediating the impacts of their supply chains would be. “And what we’re seeing now is that brands are more aware of the potential PR pitfalls of making commitments that they can’t meet, and of the actual challenges involved in getting there,” she added.
With the industry inching ever closer to 2030 and
the deadlines it has set for Science-Based Targets and net-zero commitments, “I do think that we are going to see more brands looking seriously at their options,” Kitchin said, “but something which is common in the fashion industry is brands really waiting for somebody else to jump first.”
They move as a pack, not wanting to take risks alone, she said—“And so what is needed is more collaboration from brands willing to step forward and say, ‘We’re going to organize financing. We’re going to organize a funding model. We’re going to provide a fund for suppliers to make the kind of capital investments they need to support their energy transitions and their energy efficiency processes.’”
“We need to start seeing some leadership, and I think that’s where public pressure, regulation and that backlash that we’re seeing against this idea of greenwashing is going to be really important,” she said. Stand.Earth’s 2024 Clean Energy Close Up report showed just two of the 11 leading global brands assessed—H&M Group and Puma—scored more than 50 out of 100 points on the group’s scorecard analyzing commitments, transparency, progress towards 2030 actions and advocacy. The median score across fashion firms was 20.5 out of 100, and the lowest scorer, Shein, amassed just 2.5 out of 100 points, with its emissions increasing nearly 50 percent from 6.04 to 9.17 million tons of CO2e in 2022 alone.
Puma reported a significant increase in renewable energy across its Tier 1 and Tier 2 suppliers, amounting to 27.4 percent of electricity use within those operations. Meanwhile, H&M was the only group that offered suppliers grants to decarbonize, funding the installation of solar panels, for example. These two brands, along with Levi Strauss & Co., where the only ones on track to hit their 2030 emissions reduction targets of 55 percent.
James Cooper, assistant vice president of sustainability, energy and climate change in consulting firm WSP’s apparel and retail practice said that the firm, which works with small, medium and large fashion firms including Kate Spade and Coach owner Tapestry, helps companies go “beyond strategy and theory to actual implementation” of GHG reduction actions, leveraging the expertise of engineers and other experts to help install solutions.
“With apparel specifically, it becomes complicated, because every brand seems to have a different hold or even visibility into their supply chain,” Cooper said.
He noted that “there are brands that understand this are more advanced, and actually have a handle on their Scope 3 emissions—but 90 percent [of Scope 3 outputs] are indirect emissions, and what the brands are waking up to a bit is they don’t have as much leverage towards sustainability goals unless they’re willing to pay.”
Fashion faces different challenges than other sectors in that much of the upstream supply chain is made up of suppliers and contractors that aren’t brandowned. According to Cooper, brands have historically “benefited from that lack of consistency, because they’re going to the lowest bidder that provides the most margin.”
But moving forward with climate goals in mind, that mercurial strategy won’t cut it. It will come down to fostering “longer-term relationships that actually incentivize and advance investment” into the renewable energy transition, he said.
Some of that is already underway. “There’s a huge rush in Vietnam to do more solar generation and renewable energy that’s starting to come online,” he added by way of example.
Collaborating on concrete sourcing agreements—to secure the financial stability of a mill in Bangladesh or a dye house in Vietnam—will be the key to ensuring suppliers face as little risk as possible in transitioning from fossil fuels to renewables, he believes.
“But Covid did a lot to damage those relationships and showed how fragile some parts of the supply chain really were, and how they weren’t so resilient,” Cooper said. When brands pulled back on orders during 2020, they did damage to suppliers that many are still recovering from.
In the end, the two parties will have to find a more symbiotic way to structure their relationships.
“That’s a term we’ve used a lot recently—supply chain resilience. Looking into your supply chain to ensure that they are invested in a pragmatic way that, in the end, supports both your sustainable and financial goals,” he added. “Some brands don’t necessarily have capital to do that with a long-term vision.”
It’s WSP’s large-scale U.S. apparel business clients that are currently working hardest to identify and prioritize sourcing from Tier 2 and Tier 3 suppliers that utilize renewable energy to reduce Scope 3 emissions, Cooper said.
Among medium-size firms, the strategy has centered more on modeling and subsequently switching material types for both products and packaging to reduce Scope 3, Category 1 emissions. Most material switches were in favor of recycled materials, he added. They’re also working with logistics providers to minimize, if not eradicate, the use of air freight in favor of ocean freight and truck transport to reduce Scope 3, Category 9 emissions.
“Our clients are engaged in this and continue to be engaged in this—they’re working with us and they still prioritize this,” he said.
“But on the whole, anecdotally, we’ve seen the layoffs to sustainability teams” across the apparel sector, he added. “What I do think is going to be potentially a conflict that pushes it back the other way is the introduction of regulation at such a pace that’s going to force action.”
Asked how much he believes impending regulations will influence brands’ sustainability strategies, Cooper said, “Significantly.”
From European regulations like the Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive (CSRD) and the Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDDD) to California’s Responsible Textile Recovery Act, pertaining to textile recycling, and New York’s proposed Fashion Act, the momentum is gaining, and it’s prompted “a renewed interest” in emissions reporting and disclosures.
“If there’s a regulatory approach, all the companies in California for example have to then work together to set up the system so that they are all in compliance,” he said. “That will force collaboration where there may not have been an incentive before.”
“It’s not that all of a sudden [textile] waste becomes more valuable—it’s that the regulation changes the value of that textile waste as a matter of complying with this new law.”
According to Cooper, among fashion sustainability leads, “There’s always been this groundswell” around climate action and environmental stewardship. But with governmental intervention on the horizon, “Maybe this starts getting other stakeholders in organizations to buy into that.”
“It becomes more than just the moral argument of, ‘It’s the right thing to do.’ It becomes, ‘We have to do this to comply—otherwise, we’re going to be left behind,” he said.
TDMI’S APPROACH TO RESPONSIBLE DENIM, FROM ECO MATERIALS TO EFFICIENT DYEING
IIN THE ever-evolving world of sustainable fashion, Twin Dragon Marketing Inc. (TDMI) is setting new standards with its dedication to eco-friendly practices.
Here, Stephanie Poon, director of marketing and merchandising at TDMI, discusses how the Los Angeles-based denim manufacturer is designing sustainably—from using lighter indigo dye shades to eliminating the use of fresh water at its Mexico mill.
SOURCING JOURNAL: What are some of the latest sustainable developments from Twin Dragon?
Stephanie Poon: TDMI continues to lead sustainably with its latest developments, incorporating regenerative cotton and highgrade recycled Japanese polyester. The regenerative cotton, grown using farming practices that restore soil health and biodiversity, ensures a reduced environmental footprint while maintaining premium quality.
Additionally, our Atmos collection features high-grade recycled polyester from Toray, a testament to our commitment to innovation and sustainability. This advanced material not only diverts waste from landfills but also offers exceptional durability and performance, perfectly aligning with our eco-conscious values.
What is Twin Dragon’s “Less is More” concept? How does it enhance production processes to help lower the environmental impact?
S.P.: TDMI uses lighter indigo dye shades to achieve mediumto-light washes more efficiently and sustainably. Using less dye significantly reduces the energy, water and time required to finish each garment, making the process eco-friendlier.
Additionally, this approach minimizes chemical waste and lowers the environmental impact of our production process. By prioritizing resource efficiency, TDMI not only enhances the quality of our fabrics but also demonstrates our commitment to sustainable manufacturing practices.
On the topic of dyeing, how else are you reducing the impact of this process?
S.P.: We use a liquid indigo dye that serves as an eco-friendly alternative to traditional powder dyes and is Cradle-to-Cradle certified, which measures the environmental and social sustainability of our product. This innovative dye significantly reduces the need for caustic soda and water in the dyeing process, enhances shade stability and minimizes hazardous waste discharge. Since adopting this technology in 2017, we’ve saved 25 million gallons of water, reinforcing our commitment to sustainable and responsible manufacturing practices.
What steps is Twin Dragon taking to reduce its water footprint? What role does the public sector play in this effort?
S.P.: We’ve completely eliminated the wasteful use of fresh water at our Mexico mill by partnering with the local government. The process prioritizes providing clean water to residential areas first.
“BY PRIORITIZING RESOURCE EFFICIENCY, TDMI NOT ONLY ENHANCES THE QUALITY OF OUR FABRICS BUT ALSO DEMONSTRATES OUR COMMITMENT TO SUSTAINABLE MANUFACTURING PRACTICES.”
STEPHANIE POON director of marketing and merchandising, Twin Dragon Marketing Inc.
After the community uses the water, the government collects and filters it before sending it to our mill for manufacturing. This ensures that the water used in our production is fully recycled. The entire procedure is monitored and certified by the government.
Do you have any advice for denim brands and retailers as they seek out new sustainable materials?
S.P.: To truly embrace sustainability, denim brands and retailers must prioritize consumer education. By informing customers about the benefits of sustainable materials and the environmental impact of their choices, brands can promote their commitment to sustainability while also encouraging more responsible consumer behavior.
Transparency plays a crucial role in this effort. Working with suppliers who provide full transparency about their sourcing, production methods and environmental impact helps build trust and ensures that the materials used meet high sustainability standards. Certifications like Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), OekoTex or Cradle-to-Cradle are valuable tools in this regard, as they help verify the sustainability credentials of materials.
Brands should also stay open to using innovative materials and processes, such as recycled fibers, Tencel or hemp. These materials often have a lower environmental footprint and can be blended with traditional denim to create new, more sustainable products. ■
IS TAXING FAST-FASHION A REALISTIC SOLUTION?
first, the tax man came for whiskey. Then cigarettes. Gambling followed suit. Partaking in any of these vices includes paying a “sin tax,” a regressive tactic to discourage individuals from doing things or behaving in ways deemed undesirable.
While sin taxes generally elicit a mixed reception—sugar tax disproportionately punishes lower-income Americans, for example—it is becoming an increasingly appealing option as the world struggles to combat overproduction and overconsumption. Fast fashion tax policies and initiatives are gaining global traction as governments and organizations seek to address the environmental and social impacts of the industry—and the 5,000 pound gorillas of Shein and Temu.
First, a quick refresher on what, exactly, “fast fashion tax” means.
It’s a relatively well-established concept that fast fashion is environmentally devastating and socially irresponsible. The tax policies would, ideally, mitigate these casualties by making shopping at fast fashion purveyors less enticing. Ideally, companies will be incentivized to make meaningful changes in favor of sustainable options while also encouraging (see: shaming) the consumer into buying those sustainable options.
“Although I may not know the specific details of what a fast fashion tax bill would entail, I fully support the concept,” Juanita Carmet, a fashion strategist currently part of the performancewear brand Dona Jo’s team, said. “A fast fashion tax would incentivize [brands] to adopt more ethical systems and processes, ultimately benefiting both people and the planet.”
Let’s take a look at what fast fashion tax policies currently exist.
Production taxes are imposed on the production process, targeting companies that produce clothing in less-than-responsible ways. Think taxes on carbon emissions, water usage or chemical waste. On that topic, taxes on waste disposal or landfill usage are designed to reduce the amount of textile waste that ends up in landfills. The goal is to encourage companies to produce more durable pieces while also soliciting consumers to recycle or donate their discarded duds.
“Fast fashion tax can compel brands to embrace more sustainable practices by addressing the environmental and social costs of their production. By holding companies accountable, the tax encourages a shift
From France’s “kill bill” to Australia’s recycling levy, global leaders are exploring fast fashion taxes to hold brands (and consumers) accountable. by Alexandra Harrell
toward more ethical and eco-friendly fashion, fostering circularity and reducing waste,” said Keith Fraley, assistant professor at the Fashion Institute of Technology. “My hope is that this tax will catalyze significant industrywide change, promoting long-term sustainability and responsible consumption.”
Some proposals suggest taxing imported fast fashion—particularly those from countries with lax environmental regulations—in hopes of leveling the playing field for smaller, sustainable brands. Under Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) schemes, brands are held responsible for the entire lifecycle of their products, including their disposal. This could look like paying into a fund supporting textile recycling initiatives or other sustainable disposal methods.
EXAMPLES OF NEW POLICIES AND INITIATIVES BEING IMPLEMENTED
France has arguably been the most active on the topic. French lawmakers unanimously passed a bill over the summer to reduce fast fashion’s environmental impact through taxation and a ban on advertising. The initial tax of 5 euros (about $5.50) per fast fashion item will increase to 10 euros (about $11) by 2030, with proceeds used to finance clothing collection and recycling. Bill No. 2129—also known as the fast fashion kill bill—was approved by the French National Assembly in March and is now awaiting approval from the French Senate.
“France has been such a huge leader in terms of sustainable legislation in the fashion space; they were the first to ban incineration and their EPR organization has existed since 2006,” Christine Goulay, founder and CEO of sustainable guidance provider Sustainabelle, said. “The fast fashion tax, like so many other things we’re seeing now, it’s not totally clear what the definition is or how it’s going to be implemented; there’s a lot of paralysis because there isn’t clarity.”
Clarity aside, the country known for its culture of conflict inadvertently cast light on the Land Down Under’s consumption habits.
According to the Australia Institute, the country surpassed the U.S. as the biggest consumer of textiles per capita, with much of that material—more than 200,000 tons a year, to be exact—landfilled at the end of its useful life. The think tank proposed several measures it believes the Australian government could adopt to stem the flow of cheap goods, including a French-style fast fashion tax on unsustainable, “problematic” products that linger in landfills indefinitely. That’s why Seamless, a clothing product stewardship scheme seeking to create a circular textile economy in Australia by 2030 on the back of a 4-cent per garment levy, took effect in July.
The money generated would bolster circular innovation and expand activities like clothing collection, sortation and recycling.
Nina Gbor, the Australia Institute’s circular economy and waste program director, suggested emulating France’s tax tactics by “turning off the taps of waste” within the commonwealth.
“The scheme to manage waste is highly welcome, however, in the first instance, we need to address the waste at the source,” Gbor said in a statement. “If someone leaves the taps on in your home and you return to find your house flooded, you wouldn’t immediately run out to get buckets to manage the flooding. The first thing you need to do is turn off the taps. Then find ways to fix the flooding.”
Across the pond, the United Kingdom’s Liberal Democrats proposed extending the country’s virgin plastic tax to textiles containing less than 50 percent recycled PET to stimulate the UK market for recycled fibers.
The British political party presented this and another dozen policy measures—including a 1-pence levy on new garments produced for sale on the UK market—in a motion last fall on the belief that the fast fashion business model is “inherently dependent on exploitation.” The penny penalty’s proceeds would augment local recycling facilities and collection efforts. And those pennies could amount to 35 million pounds (roughly $45.8 million) annually, per the House of Commons 2019 committee report.
“While a fashion tax seems like a logical solution, and while it may be successful in certain parts of the world, what’s most critical is the use of funds from that tax and ensuring they go toward decarbonized solutions,” Rachel Kibbe, CEO of American Circular Textiles, said. “This approach, however, is unlikely to hold water or pass into law in the United States, at least not at a federal level. Never say never, but thankfully, there are additional policy avenues to achieving similar goals.”
And she has a point; the United States simply lacks formalized legislation on fast fashion. Though efforts are—and have been— afoot. The Americas Act would set aside $14 billion for circularity-centric initiatives, with tax benefits incentivizing companies to embrace reuse and recycling practices. On a state level, New York’s Fashion Act wants to standardize environmental and social requirements for the industry.
“We support any act that holds instant fashion companies accountable for their predatory business practices, which threaten American business. Shein, Temu and their peers bypass paying taxes in America through their unjust interpretations of de minimis custom rules—this must stop,” Annie Agle, vice president of impact and sustainability at B Corp brand Cotopaxi, said. “Foreign brands and fast fashion operators should be held accountable and pay taxes commensurate to their size and
WHILE A FASHION TAX SEEMS LIKE A LOGICAL SOLUTION… WHAT’S MOST CRITICAL IS THE USE OF FUNDS FROM THAT TAX AND ENSURING THEY GO TOWARD DECARBONIZED SOLUTIONS.”
E The proliferation of ultra-fast fashion over the past decade led to apparel production rates essentially doubling. At the same time, clothing use dropped by almost 40 percent over the past 15 years, per the Ellen MacArthur Foundation.
H Of the 100 billion garments made each year, 92 million tons end up in landfills— the equivalent of one garbage truck of textiles dumping every second, per the Ellen MacArthur Foundation.
negative impacts. We are supporting the New York Fashion Act to level the playing field and ensure that American companies are not put at a disadvantage when competing with these morally bankrupt and financially fraudulent companies.”
Belinda Jacobs, CEO of technical design company Tech Packs Co, is also “very much” for the tax.
“The current fashion system [allows] those at the top of the chain to shop around for the best prices, so suppliers are forced to cut every which way they can,” she said. “Cheapest wins, and without taxes to protect the people and environmental resources in our supply chains; capitalism leaves no room for environmental and fair labor concerns.”
Not everyone, however, is convinced the tax will behave as desired.
“While a fast fashion tax may encourage consumers to think twice about buying fast fashion products, it may also lead to more exploitation in the apparel supply chain— giving fast fashion companies a ‘free pass’ to continue environmental and human rights violations while potentially lowering prices even more to stay competitive in the market,” Andrea Olmsted, founder of Sustainable Fashion PR, argued.
There’s also the whole equity-over-assets of it all, Cynthia Power said.
“For people who want to buy new who can only afford fast fashion, it feels extra punitive for them; what’s fair for who? How will that tax affect different segments of the population?” the owner of the circular advisory firm, Molte Volte, asked. “Right now, I’ve got more questions than answers.”
Rachel Kibbe, American Circular Textiles
HYOSUNG’S CIRCULAR TEXTILE SOLUTIONS HELP BRANDS MEET SUSTAINABILITY REGULATIONS
LLOOMING European Green
Deal regulations to reduce net greenhouse gas emissions by at least 55 percent by 2030 have fiber suppliers, mills, brands and retailers alike scrambling to meet protocols. Here, Simon Whitmarsh-Knight, Hyosung’s global sustainability director –textiles, explains how Hyosung’s broad portfolio of 100 percent recycled, BIO and circular sustainable textile solutions is well-positioned to help partners meet their impact goals.
SOURCING JOURNAL: What were some industry firsts along Hyosung’s sustainable textile solutions journey?
Simon Whitmarsh-Knight: Hyosung has always been ahead of the curve, offering new possibilities long before they become the norm, and our path to sustainability goes back 17 years. Hyosung was the first company in the world to develop recycled nylon from raw materials recovered from discarded fishing nets in 2007 and the first company in South Korea to produce GRScertified 100 percent recycled polyester from PET bottles in 2008. Hyosung was also the first to launch RCS-certified, 100 percent recycled regen Spandex made with the reclaimed waste from our spandex production in 2020. To expand beyond recycled products, we were the first company to produce at scale, our USDA- and SGS-certified regen BIO Spandex partly made from renewable resources in 2021. This year, we expanded our regen BIO Spandex program to include yarn offerings of higher renewable resource content, plus began developing a textileto-textile recycling program to address circularity.
What is the update on Hyosung’s new regen Bio BDO collaboration with Geno?
S.W.K: We have already started work on a new 50,000-ton BioBDO(Butanediol) facility at our Vietnam facility, with plans to expand to 200,000 tons annually. This will utilize Geno’s proven plant-based Geno™ BDO™ technology, which ferments sugars derived from sugarcane to replace the fossil raw materials. It will be the world’s first vertically integrated spandex manufacturing plant from raw material to fiber. Through this vertical integration to produce regen™ BIO Spandex, our goal is to increase production efficiency, provide faster response to our customer needs, and integrate value chains to significantly reduce carbon footprint.
How will the new regen BIO Spandex made with sugarcane be different from your existing regen BIO Spandex offering?
S.W.K: Hyosung’s current regen BIO Spandex offering is made with various percentages of renewable resources that come from industrial corn; our regen BIO Spandex from our Vietnam facility will be made with renewable resources derived from sugarcane. The sugarcane supply will be via fully traceable, recognized platforms as we are investigating robust industry-
“AS A FIBER INNOVATOR, THE ROAD TO SUSTAINABILITY OFTEN STARTS WITH US.”
SIMON WHITMARSH-KNIGHT global sustainability director – textiles, Hyosung
leading supply chain platforms and certification schemes. Significant reductions in carbon emissions and water use will be provided via 3rd party LCA when our BIO BDO plant is in full operation.
Notably, our regen BIO Spandex fibers have the same performance as conventional spandex in terms of powerful stretch, recovery, shape-retention and durability.
Tell us about Hyosung’s textile-to-textile program.
S.W.K: The industry needs to collaborate to achieve circular business models. Hyosung has a clear strategy across three areas— develop new recyclable fibers, invest in start-ups working on recycling technologies and team up with partners to help scale up selected solutions. For this third strategy, one of the partners we teamed up with is Los Angelesbased leading material science company Ambercycle to become the first manufacturer in South
Korea to introduce a textile-totextile, circular polyester into supply chains. This repurposes end-of-life products into high-performing fibers for brands looking to curb their environmental impact.
What question do your customers ask you the most?
S.W.K: I’d say: ‘How can you help us reach our unique sustainability impact objectives and provide accurate and trustworthy data to measure this impact?’
As a fiber innovator, the road to sustainability often starts with us. So, we must keep innovating for the future to predict and meet our supply chain needs. We also need to continually provide them with trusted certifications and independent LCA documentation, not to mention the necessary educational tools to help them share their unique journey to sustainability. Regulations, digitalization and recycling are top of everyone’s mind! ■
GREEN GRIDLOCK
retailers and brands alike have begun deploying artificial intelligence systems throughout major pieces of their operations, from demand forecasting, to product imagery, to customer experience, to warehouse operations and more. J In many cases, these companies are not behind the development of the systems; instead, they make agreements with technology patners. That’s particularly true in the case of generative AI-powered systems, which require a great deal of know-how, data and time to build. J But time and money are far from the only resources taken into consideration when building AI models from the ground up. The models often require large amounts of energy to build and operate, especially those that rely on massive data sets, like GPT-4, which underlies ChatGPT. J Researchers from Cornell University found that the training of GPT-3, an earlier model developed by OpenAI, resulted in 552 metric tons of CO2 emissions; that figure is representative only of training the model, before it was ever available for public use. For frame of reference the average U.S. household creates about 7.5 metric tons of CO2 in one year; the CO2 emitted by training GPT-3 for 14 days is equivalent to the average U.S. home’s emissions for 73 years.
Those figures also fail to recognize the impacts of actually using generative AI. Asking a model to procure a written answer or an image from scratch can be a carbon-thirsty process, though researchers are still working to understand its exact impact.
A 2023 study from Hugging Face and Carnegie Mellon University found that generating a single image using a generative AI model like Dall-E or Midjourney requires as much energy as it would to fully charge a smartphone. Generating answers or phrases via text 1,000 times only scratches the surface of that—it requires about as much energy as it would take to charge that same smartphone to 16 percent.
While brands and retailers may not be directly responsible for building these systems, in many cases they are responsible— on their Scope 3 emissions balance sheet—for the carbon footprint that may come from using them, or from harboring scores of data in data centers, which continue to pop up around the globe.
That in mind, companies will need to make tough choices about whether the benefits of AI—related to sustainability or not—outweigh
the increase in emissions they may be adding, particularly as 2030 creeps closer.
Saskia Van Gendt, chief sustainability officer at Blue Yonder, said she thinks the industry may soon begin disclosing its direct Scope 3 emissions impacts from AI as line items in sustainability reports as soon as next year.
“We do see that being bucketed generally under more of a cloud data usage umbrella, but you see even in earning statements, AI being called out specifically. I would imagine that as there starts to be much more transparency around increased costs and emissions associated with AI, that we will see it specifically called out,” Van Gendt said.
As reporting gets stronger and use cases become less murky, Van Gendt said she believes it will become clearer whether meaningful emissions dropouts outweigh the emissions companies may be adding by building or using AI models—but at the moment, the field remains murky.
“I think we’re in the middle of that accounting in real time, because a lot of the AI applications that are the most energy intensive are also the newest, so we probably have yet to realize their full benefit,” she told Sourcing Journal.
Artificial intelligence has the potential to improve sustainability outcomes, but the technology is energy intensive to train and use.
GRIDLOCK
by Meghan Hall
Even still, AI could open myriad doors when it comes to sustainability. BCG predicts that AI could “help unlock insights that could help mitigate 5 to 10 percent of GHG emissions by 2030.” If that projection comes through, many industries have a lot to look forward to—and may find themselves more willing to play the long game, rather than being put off by the current water- and energy-intense nature of building and piloting some AI systems.
Julie Sinistore, vice president at consulting firm WSP, said AI could help enrich understanding about product life cycle assessments, which capture data on the greenhouse gas emissions that went into making specific goods.
“Any given product has a bill of materials, or a BOM, and that has countless items in it—the materials that are used to make the item, to package the item. People think clothes are relatively simple, but they actually can be pretty complicated,” she said, noting that each individual button, zipper, snap and component has to be analyzed separately.
Today, those components vary heavily from brand to brand, so they have to be matched manually to their emissions.
“We could do an entire line of products for one company, and then try to do an LCA on a line of very similar products for another, and it’s not the same at all—we have to re-do all the matching manually,” Sinistore explained.
“This is where AI could be helpful; we could train a model to recognize BOMs, particularly in the same company, to automate the process of matching.”
That could make LCAs faster to turn around, as well as more comprehensive in terms of what they include, she said.
Van Gendt said AI has already started to influence the logistics and supply chain industries; some providers use the technology to determine the most efficient load compositions and routes, which can cut down on unnecessary miles, decrease the amount of fuel used and increase the size of the load vehicles carry to their destination.
“I think [we’ll also] benefit [from] visibility into longer-range forecasting…whether it be around inventory demand, transportation demand or [otherwise], those predictions will continue to make the entire supply chain more efficient,” she said.
A LOT OF THE AI APPLICATIONS THAT ARE THE MOST ENERGY INTENSIVE ARE ALSO THE NEWEST, SO WE PROBABLY HAVE YET TO REALIZE THEIR FULL BENEFIT.” Saskia
Sinistore also foresees AI changing the game when it comes to the make-up of materials. Given that so much of fashion’s negative impact on the environment comes from plastic-based fibers like polyester, that could boost efforts for textile recycling, while also extending the lifetime of garments.
“AI could rapidly model different types of [material] blends, to more rapidly discover materials that could have better performance, durability or quality,” she said. “The longer the item lasts, the lower its impact, because you amortize all of the impacts of its raw materials and its production over a longer lifetime… Materials account for quite a large fraction of an apparel company’s Scope 3 emissions, so any progress that can be made there could have a significant impact.”
Van Gendt, Blue Yonder
HOW CENTRIC SOFTWARE’S TECHNOLOGY STREAMLINES
SUPPLY CHAINS AND
BOOSTS SUSTAINABILITY
AAS THE INDUSTRY pushes toward its sustainability targets, one investment companies shouldn’t overlook is technology. Centric Software® is transforming how businesses manage their product development and retailing by digitalizing processes to support smarter inventory decision-making, stronger collaboration and shorter lead times, all of which contribute to more responsible operations.
Here, Hayley Blatt, senior business consultant at Centric Software, discusses how the California–based software company leverages advanced retail technology to enhance supplier relationships and build a more efficient supply chain.
SOURCING JOURNAL: What digital solutions does Centric Software® offer to help companies achieve their sustainability goals?
Hayley Blatt: Companies can’t track goals they can’t measure. Centric offers a single source of truth for all sustainability data, allowing companies to measure, manage and monitor their sustainability targets throughout the supply chain. This encompasses environmental, social and governance (ESG) tracking, social responsibility, waste management, circularity and traceability. With just one click, brands can report on supplier compliance, product certifications and carbon emissions for entire product seasons.
How is Centric using artificial intelligence (AI) to help the retail industry prevent understocking and overstocking?
H.B.: Apparel companies are grappling with growing market uncertainty and volatility, making it challenging to forecast demand and heightening the need for swift decision-making based on the latest trends. At the same time, the volume of data and the number of factors influencing merchandising decisions are rapidly increasing, rendering manual methods such as spreadsheets ineffective and leading to not just overstock and understock but also missed sales opportunities and lower margins.
Centric Pricing & Inventory is an AI-powered solution that enables companies to transform their decision-making processes for in-season pricing and inventory management by moving toward automation, all while keeping the user in the strategic lead. By leveraging existing client data, our AI can predict future demand for any product, across any channel and location, around the clock, resulting in increased sales of up to 18 percent and increased gross margins by up to 15 percent.
Sustainability is also about people. What are often missed opportunities in supplier relationship management, and what can companies do to improve their compliance and working conditions in their supply chains?
H.B.: Companies can enhance supplier relationships by using Centric to improve planning
“CENTRIC OFFERS A SINGLE SOURCE OF TRUTH FOR ALL SUSTAINABILITY DATA, ALLOWING COMPANIES TO MEASURE, MANAGE AND MONITOR THEIR SUSTAINABILITY TARGETS THROUGHOUT THE SUPPLY CHAIN”
HAYLEY BLATT , senior business consultant, Centric Software
and timeline management, reducing pressure on suppliers. It offers centralized visibility and forecasting, enabling accurate projections and better resource allocation.
Real-time communication and automated workflows streamline collaboration, ensuring suppliers are aware of timelines and changes, which minimizes lastminute rushes.
Companies can support educational programs for factory workers by providing platforms for training and knowledge sharing. They also integrate with systems that track safety compliance, helping to create safer working conditions. While product lifestyle management (PLM) software may not directly absorb the costof-living wages, companies can
use its data to advocate for and implement fair wage practices in partnership with suppliers. Additionally, companies foster stronger, more collaborative relationships with suppliers by leveraging PLM for better planning, communication and supporting worker well-being through education, safety and fair wages.
What other initiatives is Centric taking to help businesses become more sustainable?
H.B.: Centric has a dedicated product team that integrates industry-specific requirements into its core PLM functionality. This team regularly engages with customers to understand and address needs related to French Anti-Waste for a Circular Economy (AGEC) regulations.
Additionally, Centric collaborates with Higg Index and TrusTrace to facilitate the seamless import of sustainability data into our products, ensuring that our customers can efficiently manage and utilize this information. ■
WASHINGTON LAWMAKERS PUSH TO REVITALIZE U.S. SUSTAINABLE FIBER SECTOR
Members of Congress have asked the USDA for information on how to support farmers and ranchers engaged in cultivating sustainable materials.
by Kate Nishimura
a coalition of democratic members of congress is advocating that the federal government take an active role in fostering the growth of sustainable fiber production in the United States, and is asking the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) for information on how to support farmers and ranchers engaged in cultivating ecologicallyfriendly materials.JReps. Chellie Pingree (D-Me.), Jill Tokuda (D-Hi.), Andrea Salinas (D-Calif.), Josh Gottheimer (D-N.J.), Sean Casten (D-Ill.), Sydney Kamlager-Dove (D-Calif.), Lloyd Doggett (D-Tex.) and Julia Brownley (D-Calif.) on Thursday penned the letter. Written by Pingree’s office and directed to USDA Secretary Tom Vilsack, it underscored a need—and an opportunity—for American farmers to recapture a piece of the market that long ago fled to offshore sourcing hubs.
“As global trends have impacted the economics of producing textiles and apparel outside the U.S., and as consumer demand for more sustainably produced products has risen, there is a critical need to reshore production of American-made textiles, and to ensure more sustainable textile production,” the signatories wrote.
AS GLOBAL FIBER PRODUCTION CONTINUES TO INCREASE, IT IS CRITICAL THAT WE CONSIDER THE IMPACTS ON THE ENVIRONMENT AND ENHANCE DOMESTIC PRODUCTION OF SUSTAINABLE FIBERS.” Coalition letter
The USDA plays a critical role in supporting such industries through its engagement with the farming community, and could serve as a springboard for the burgeoning sustainable fibers sector in the U.S., they added.
“Supporting the production and processing of plant-based fiber crops, such as cotton, hemp, and flax, and animal-based fibers such as wool, alpaca, and leather, is key to this effort,” the letter said, noting that these materials boast lower environmental impact than synthetics, which are derived from fossil fuels. The group pointed to 2022 data from the Textile Materials Market Report which showed synthetics like polyester made up about 65 percent of the world’s fiber production.
Natural fibers, which can be grown in the U.S., are easier to recycle or reuse, with textileto-textile recycling schemes already scaling that facilitate the regeneration of fibers from post-consumer discards and industrial textile waste. And from their inception, they’re easier on the environment, making use of renewable
resources in the cultivation stage. “These fibers can also be grown and raised in ways that sequester carbon and provide additional environmental co-benefits,” the writers said.
“As global fiber production continues to increase, it is critical that we consider the impacts on the environment and enhance domestic production of sustainable fibers,” they added, pointing to several mission areas covered by the agency, from production and conservation to facilitating domestic and international marketing of U.S. agricultural products.
The Representatives said expanding the industry could lead to more opportunity and economic security for those living in rural U.S. communities, and give farmers and ranchers the ability to compete on a global marketplace.
As the lawmakers, all from states with significant agricultural investment, continue to explore how they can support their constituencies, they asked Secretary Vilsack to provide information about existing programs and authorities that can be implemented to support sustainable fiber production and processing, along with examples of USDA funding directed toward the sector. They also asked for an assessment of the current barriers to addressing the existing gaps in the U.S. sustainable textile supply chain.
“We appreciate learning more about existing support from the USDA to enhance sustainable fiber products and ask for your commitment to working with Congress to enhance the production and processing of sustainable fibers,” they concluded.
The agency has a number of programs in place to facilitate the growth of sustainable agriculture and regenerative farming.
For example, in 2022, the USDA tapped the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol as the lead recipient of the U.S. Climate Smart Cotton Program, awarding it $90 million in funding as a part of its Partnership for Climate-Smart Commodities pilot projects. The initiatives aimed to create a market for climate-positive cotton while providing assistance, both financial and technical, to more than 1,000 farmers willing to adopt sustainable practices. The project came with the goal of producing over 4 million bales of climate-smart cotton over the course of five years.
And last year, the agency funded a $3.5-million grant for a study called Fostering Sustainable Organic Cotton Production in the U.S. Through Research and Outreach on Organic Regenerative Practices, carried out by Texas A&M’s AgriLife Research program.
HOW INTERLOOP IS SCALING SUSTAINABLE INVESTMENTS ALONGSIDE BUSINESS GROWTH
AADDRESSING the increasingly evident effects of climate change— including heatwaves and extreme weather—will require aggressive action. Interloop is heeding the call. The hosiery, denim and knitwear manufacturer recently became the first large-scale Pakistan-based enterprise with approved science-based targets, committing to cut direct and indirect emissions by 51 percent and value chain emissions by 30 percent by 2032. “These targets are very ambitious given Interloop’s growth plan, but we have always led from the front and don’t back down from a challenge,” said Faryal Sadiq, chief marketing officer at Interloop Limited.
Here, Sadiq discusses Interloop’s footprint reduction efforts and how responsible practices are interwoven with prosperity.
SOURCING JOURNAL: Interloop recently received high marks on the Higg FEM. What contributed to these results?
Faryal Sadiq: Interloop’s strong Higg FEM performance reflects our deep-rooted commitment to doing right by the environment, focusing on smart energy use, maintaining water intake far below industry norms and rigorous chemical management. We continuously lean more on renewables and low-impact fuels. We enforce strict waste management in our facilities, recycle materials into products and recently partnered with Reverse Resources to trace textile waste from design to disposal. By collaborating across the supply chain, we aim to raise the bar on environmental performance industry wide.
Every expansion is a strategic move to not only scale up operations but to grow our LEED footprint and integrate advanced technology that drives down carbon emissions. As we grow, our investments in sustainability grow with us.
“BY COLLABORATING ACROSS THE SUPPLY CHAIN, WE AIM TO RAISE THE BAR ON ENVIRONMENTAL PERFORMANCE INDUSTRY WIDE”
FARYAL SADIQ , chief marketing officer, Interloop Limited
How is sustainability shaping your material sourcing choices?
F.S.: Our goals include sourcing 70 percent sustainable materials and partnering exclusively with certified suppliers—targets we’ve already met. We’re also making our supply chain fully traceable with Looptrace, which is now integrated with customer tracking platforms.
While Better Cotton Institute (BCI) cotton continues to dominate, there’s a growing shift toward organic and regenerative cotton, which we’re addressing through Interloop’s Kapas initiatives, supporting IC2-certified organic cotton and developing a local regenerative supply chain.
The demand for alternative natural and recycled fibers led us to innovate with Loomshake™ yarn, spun from banana agro-waste. We’re also exploring kapok-cotton blends and jute fiber made from
post-consumer waste. Though sustainable materials are gaining traction, they remain niche, and the appetite for paying a premium remains low.
Manufacturing revolves around people. How are you supporting your workforce’s well-being?
F.S.: Our people-first mindset has earned consistent global recognition and customer awards like the People Award at the Adidas Partner Summit 2024.
Beyond compliance, our Fair Trade Certified program generated over $769,560 in community development, directly benefiting 8,000 employees. We support workforce development through our Technical Training School and well-being programs centered on health and inclusivity.
DE&I targets are set at the top, ensuring our workplace systems are inclusive from the inside out. We advance this through
gender sensitization, trainings like sign language workshops, and championing women into leadership roles.
Partnering with customers on social initiatives like Target’s Humari Awaz program, which brings workers’ voices forward, strengthens our work culture and performance.
Your sustainability report mentioned “sustainable growth.” What does this look like in practice?
F.S.: ESG is built into our growth strategy and guided by a boardlevel committee. We prioritize projects with clear sustainability goals, focusing on process improvement, resource efficiency and waste reduction to cut operational costs.
These efforts have led to strategic partnerships with customers who value responsible suppliers, unlocking new business opportunities. Our transparent reporting builds trust with partners and stakeholders, supporting further growth.
We’ve also seen increased employee retention and engagement, leading to higher productivity. Through strong governance and social and environmental performance, we achieve sustainable growth that benefits our customers, employees and communities. ■
The increase of frequently high temperatures is leading to unsafe conditions that put workers in peril across the global South.
HEAT CHECK
by Jasmin Malik Chua
dy phors spends her days packing orders destined for international brands at a garment factory in Krong Bavet, a Cambodian city near the country’s border with Vietnam. With a limited number of fans to cool the warehouses, the 29-year-old often works under sweltering conditions, particularly between March and June, when temperatures can easily soar past 40 degrees Celsius (104 degrees Fahrenheit). The humidity can often make it feel orders of magnitude more oppressive—even impossible to function.J“This causes our workers to fall sick more frequently and take frequent leaves of absence,” she said through a translator. Headaches, dizziness, cramps and fatigue are common symptoms of overheating and dehydration. Left unaddressed, they can result in organ failure and, in extreme cases, death.
While the global South, where the vast majority of clothing and footwear production takes place, has always been known for its blistering climes, human-driven climate change is causing a spike in heatwaves that are baking vast swathes of the planet for longer periods. 2023 was the hottest year on record with 26 more days of extreme heat than there would have been typically, according to researchers from Climate Central, the Red Cross Red Crescent Climate Centre and World Weather Attribution. Countries nearest the equator saw the biggest increases in extreme heat, with the mercury regularly shooting past the triple digits. 2024 is shaping up to be another numbers buster. This past April saw more recordshattering temperatures across South and Southeast Asia, shutting down schools, obliterating crops and killing hundreds of people through heat-related illnesses. Ko Barrett, deputy secretary-general of the World Meteorological Organization, said in the same month that heat is “becoming the silent killer,” causing a scale of premature deaths and economic costs, including reduced labor productivity, that is not “being accurately reflected in the statistics.”
Workers in Bangladesh’s factories are sweating all the time, said Kalpona Akter, executive director of the Bangladesh Centre for Workers Solidarity, a workers’ rights group, and a former garment worker herself. And even when they’re not, fatigue and weakness are common complaints. While the world’s second-largest exporter of clothing after China often touts its high number of LEED-certified “green” factories, most feature outdated
design and construction that is ill-equipped to meet the new climate reality. Air conditioning is uncommon, if not an outright luxury, as is ready access to clean, potable water. And even more modern setups might struggle, she said, recounting a visit to one of these facilities on a day where the temperature was “bearable” outside and large, adjustable fans were whirring away within despite the country’s notoriously unreliable power grid. It still felt like a furnace.
“Because the inside is so crowded and you have all these machines and human bodies,” she said. “I asked a manager what they did when there’s a huge heatwave and he said they sprinkle water outside, and I asked how is that helping workers at all. He didn’t have an answer.”
Keeping conditions comfortable for workers in a sprawling factory space isn’t easy, nor cheap, said Md. Fazlul Hoque, managing director of Plummy Fashions, a “green” knitwear factory in Narayanganj, an hour’s drive south of Bangladesh’s capital of Dhaka. Plummy Fashions has installed one of the country’s largest solar plants, but older factories that rely on conventional sources of electricity have to grapple with the ballooning emissions they create at a time when the industry is desperately trying to slash them.
Beating the heat can be a Herculean task when it’s positively searing, too. Factories can only lower internal temperatures by a handful of degrees, which isn’t saying much when it’s a broiling 46 degrees Celsius (114 degrees Fahrenheit) outside, said Naurin Muzaffar, strategic advisor of sustainability at Crescent
Bahuman, a vertically integrated denim manufacturer in Pakistan. Outside of working hours, employees who live on the premises need cool accommodations, which adds to the company’s operating expenses. Overheating machinery can also pose a fire hazard.
“You don’t find many spaces where adaptation is being discussed,” she said.
“It’s more about how do you reduce your emissions, how do you convert your electricity to renewable and all of that. Or when unfortunate circumstances occur, like floods, some of our brand partners come through with contributions with relief efforts. We’ve tried to push that conversation on a much bigger level, but we find very limited forums to have that. There’s so much on the plate to be handled so that this is more of a supplier’s problem, so to speak. It’s not so much of a brand’s problem.”
Heat stress is also exacerbating precarious labor conditions in Asia’s garment industry. Already chronically underpaid workers are rarely compensated when they call in sick or they have to take care of unwell children, and frequent absenteeism can result in financial penalties or loss of employment. Even workers who can freely slake their thirst risk missing strict production goals because they also have to take more frequent trips to the restroom. More often than not, however, workers are routinely denied such breaks because poor costing models fail to account for their basic needs.
“This forces workers to avoid drinking water—one of the leading causes of fainting during the summer,” said Thivya Rakini, president of the Tamil Nadu Textile and Common Labour Union, a Dalit women-led trade union of textile workers in India, where the temperatures topped 53 degrees Celsius (127 degrees Fahrenheit) in June. In the Tamil Nadu city of Dindigul, for instance, workers can be required to churn out 1,000 units a day. It’s an endeavor that would be a challenge even if there were adequate ventilation systems, regular cooling breaks, sufficient drinking water and shift adjustments to avoid peak heat hours.
All of this ends up having a “compounding impact, not only on workers, who are predominantly female, but their families as well,” said Sonia Mistry, climate and labor justice director at the Solidarity Center, a nonprofit based in Washington, D.C. Workers who are not able to fulfill quotas within the allotted hours might be forced into overtime or face potential harassment or violence from managers who are themselves feeling the pressure from brands to wrap up orders on time. The fact that crackdowns on trade unions and freedom of association are growing, particularly in more repressive nations, doesn’t help. Early data from a Solidarity Center study in Cambodia, in fact, indicates that workers who are represented by a union are better able to manage the impacts of heat stress.
“There are next-level discussions that need to happen at the industry level and at the national level over climate adaptation policies,” she said. “But unions must be given a meaningful place at the table to bargain over issues as the first, very necessary step to address the immediate impact that workers are facing. These issues must be considered part of climate adaptation
E Cramped conditions and high quotas are exacerbating the peril to worker welfare from rising temperatures.
policy if we actually want to build resilience for workers in their communities.”
Minimum occupational safety and health requirements are a mixed bag. National legal frameworks that specify thresholds for indoor heat and ventilation, breaks and drinking water, along with social protections involving work stoppages or paid leave, are often weak or fuzzy, according to a 2023 study by the ILR Global Labor Institute at Cornell University. And where guidelines exist, lax regulatory regimes could render them meaningless boxchecking exercises.
“So in Cambodia, the law says the temperature should not be such that it affects workers’ health,” said Jason Judd, the school’s executive director. “That’s worse than useless because the government can point to a standard and say, ‘Well, of course, we have a legal standard, so don’t worry, it’s covered.’ But of course, the standard’s meaningless. How could you enforce that?”
Suggestions by multi-stakeholder organizations have been equally broad— and even less enforceable because they’re voluntary. The Fair Labor Association, whose roster includes Adidas, Patagonia and Lululemon, for instance, requires that suppliers to its member brands “provide a safe and healthy workplace setting to prevent accidents and injury to health arising out of, linked with, or occurring in the course of work or as a result of the operation of employers’ facilities.” Most brand codes of conduct fall similarly short, the Global Labor Institute found.
Even so, the issue of climate change is an existential one for garment production. Judd’s report estimates that slumping productivity triggered by worsening temperatures and flooding could reduce the export earnings of four of the world’s top garment-producing countries, including Bangladesh and Cambodia, by $65 billion by 2030. It could also prevent the creation of 1 million jobs and erode the profits of affected brands by at least 5 percent.
But data on the extent of the problem is scarce because even basic measures like
taking indoor thermometer readings are being ignored. Meanwhile, Judd said, workers are bearing the brunt of climate change as their health and earnings suffer. And though mandatory due diligence legislation from Europe could be a lever to get laggards to act, since the risk of legal liability for knowingly harming workers is considerable, it’s “not fast-moving.”
The Global Labor Institute’s next round of research will center on how to “square the circle” on the emissions issue. Air conditioning isn’t the only recourse, Judd said. More affordable and less energy-intensive options— such as evaporative cooling systems and wind corridors—exist, though these still require initial investment that may not be readily available. Sri Lanka’s MAS Holdings picked a spot near the lake for its new facility in India because its design features can take advantage of the abundant wind to keep temperatures down. At its factory in Cambodia, Outland Denim uses a method of heat extraction involving breezeways and a roof ventilation device known as a whirlybird. Karupannya Rangpur in Bangladesh is shrouded in leaves and vines that make it look like it’s peeking out from a forest.
Judd said that one of the possible approaches to “squaring the circle” is to think about mitigation and adaptation together so that one offsets the other. “You get your greenhouse gas emissions reductions through the mitigation investment, and you get your financial savings, your ROI, on the adaptation side,” he said. “These are the kinds of things factories and brands should be thinking about together. The world needs both.”
One trouble with dealing with heat as a workplace hazard is that unlike, say, asbestos or a chemical pesticide, it can’t be isolated and removed, said Halshka Graczyk, a technical specialist at the International Labour Organization and co-author of a July report about the health and safety implications of heat stress at work.
“Heat is a pervasive hazard,” she said. “It’s not easy to eliminate. It’s also a hazard that
THERE ARE NEXT-LEVEL DISCUSSIONS THAT NEED TO HAPPEN AT THE INDUSTRY LEVEL AND AT THE NATIONAL LEVEL OVER CLIMATE ADAPTATION POLICIES.” Sonia Mistry, Solidarity Center
is very difficult to interpret when it comes to physiological symptoms. Workers might be aware that it’s hot, but many don’t have the awareness of what type of symptoms can lead to these really severe outcomes. And so this is something that calls attention and rings the alarm bells when it comes to effective policy measures.”
There are other reasons why occupational safety and health regulations haven’t kept up. For one thing, the changing threat of climate change is only intensifying. For another, labor migration patterns are shifting in the world of work. Rarely is there a one-size-fits-all solution in terms of blanket policies, Graczyk said.
“We know that acclimatization is very important for heat stress and for injury,” she said. “So if you have workers coming from one part of the world to another and quickly have to start working in extremely hot and humid conditions that their bodies are not used to, this is where you have the biggest risk.”
That’s not to say nothing can be done about it. Next year, the United Nations agency will host a tripartite meeting that brings together workers, employers and governments from different countries to try to establish some baseline international policy guidance. Implementing the right measures could not only help stave off some of the nearly 19,000 deaths and 23 million injuries that happen every year because of excessive heat, but also save $361 billion from the economic harm that it generates globally.
The garment sector’s climate woes appear more intractable in the case of subcontracted or home-based workers, whose lack of formalization means they have no social protections to speak of, let alone any kind of steady wage, since they’re usually paid a paltry piece rate. In India, the Self Employed Women’s Association, better known by its acronym SEWA, recently launched a heat wave insurance program for its members, providing financial assistance to workers who need extra funds to stay healthy. Such efforts are few and far between, however.
What the industry needs to realize is that the soaring temperatures are here to stay, said Vidhura Ralapanawe, executive vice president at Epic Group, a Hong Kong-based apparel manufacturing giant with factories in Bangladesh, Ethiopia and Jordan. Until there’s that mental shift from both brands and suppliers, little will change, he said.
We still haven’t come to terms globally in any industry—not just garments—that this is a new normal, and this is going to be recurrent,” Ralapanawe said. “And the reason everybody’s scared of even broaching the subject is who’s going to pay for it? I think what we need in the industry is a real conversation about decarbonization and climate action. And what I mean by real conversation is understanding the problem, understanding the risks and stakeholders getting together to talk about it.”
Suppliers already know what needs to be done in terms of adaptation and mitigation, he said. What they cannot do is accomplish all that within the current business model of constant margin-shaving.
“It’s not a training issue, it’s not an intent issue, it’s a business model and finance issue,” Ralapanawe said. “So long as we are keeping that out of the conversation, we are not going to solve it, whether it’s decarbonization or adaptation.”
G A woman wades though floodwaters along a street in central Vietnam’s city of Hue.
EEASTMAN believes that transforming and educating the textile industry requires industrywide collaboration, a principle demonstrated by its commitment to transparency and innovation.
Here, Carolina Sister Cohn, global marketing lead of textiles at Eastman, discusses how the global specialty materials company and maker of Naia™ fibers is overcoming industry challenges by enhancing transparency through third-party certifications, collaborating with brands and introducing innovative, sustainable products like circular Naia™ Renew ES.
SOURCING JOURNAL: What has been the biggest challenge for Naia™ Renew?
Carolina Sister Cohn: At the start of our journey with Naia™ Renew from Eastman, launched in 2020, our biggest challenge was educating the entire industry— including supply chain partners, brands and consumers—about the transformative potential of our innovative fiber for achieving true circularity and sustainability in textiles.
To address this, we focused on transparency through thirdparty certifications and industry initiatives like the CanopyStyle Audit, which validates our sustainable practices and builds trust throughout the supply chain. Collaborating with mills, brands and designers has also been crucial, allowing us to share our story directly with consumers. By partnering with brands, we ensure that our fibers with Global Recycled Standard (GRS)-certification, Naia™ Renew, seamlessly integrate into their collections. This not only highlights the high-quality features and performance that consumers appreciate but also conveys a comprehensive sustainability narrative that appeals to today’s eco-conscious shoppers.
HOW EASTMAN’S NAIA™ RENEW FIBERS OFFER CIRCULARITY AT SCALE
“[NAIA™ RENEW ES] IS A FUTUREFOCUSED FIBER MADE WITH THE NEXT GENERATIONS IN MIND—ONE THAT DOESN’T COMPROMISE ON THE QUALITY OF THE GARMENT OR THE HEALTH OF OUR PLANET.”
CAROLINA SISTER COHN , global marketing lead of textiles, Eastman
What is Eastman’s latest product innovation, and what can we expect in the pipeline soon?
C.S.C.: As part of our sustainability commitment to help mainstream circularity within the industry, earlier this year we launched Naia™ Renew ES (enhanced sustainability) fiber with increased recycled content. It’s a solution that blends fashion and environmental responsibility. Naia™ Renew ES is produced from 60 percent GRS-certified recycled content via mass balance and 40 percent sustainably sourced wood pulp. It is an eco-conscious alternative to silk and other natural or
man-made fibers, assuring elegant drape, silky soft hand and luxurious luster without compromising on sustainability. This sustainable yarn plays a pivotal role in combating waste pollution, reducing reliance on virgin materials and enabling a lower carbon footprint. We continue to work toward finding alternative feedstocks that use less virgin materials, resulting in a higher recycled content.
Overall, Naia™ Renew ES is our answer to the overconsumption of raw materials, a growing plastic waste problem, and rising greenhouse gases caused by deforestation. It’s a futurefocused fiber made with the next generations in mind—one that doesn’t compromise on the quality of the garment or the health of our planet.
How does Eastman ensure that brands using Naia™ can confidently communicate sustainability to their customers?
C.S.C.: Naia™ today is a trusted sustainability brand, with transparency and traceability at its core. All our claims are thirdparty verified. We take a holistic approach to sustainability, supported by certifications that address various aspects of our products’ value propositions. We are dedicated to collaborating with and empowering our partners to effectively communicate with consumers. Together, we can build trust, boost engagement and drive systemic change for the benefit of all involved.
Why is sustainability more crucial now than ever for the textile industry?
C.S.C.: Global brands have announced their corporate sustainability goals and targets; now the industry must work together to help them deliver. Over the past year, we have observed brands increasingly committing to using recycled content and sustainable and traceable fibers. Brands must place sustainability as a core value of their business and be transparent about their practices to build consumer trust. Authentic and clear information about their supply chain, raw materials and environmental impact is crucial to avoid misinterpretations from the consumer. ■
THE BENEFITS OF BEING CLOSE TO HOME
Los Angeles’ burgeoning footwear community has an added arrow in its quiver—sustainability. by Kate Nishimura
over the years , the concept of onshoring has often been characterized as a pipe dream—but that could be changing as American makers take the lead in the sustainable revolution.
J In Downtown, Los Angeles’ Fashion District, the effort to bring back U.S. footwear production is taking shape in a very real way, and has been for some time. But a confluence of global pressures—from the economy to geopolitics and environmental regulations—may finally be forcing brands to consider a meaningful shift. J “We’ve been having conversations with much larger brands than ever before, the efforts to de-risk their supply chains have definitely been coming hot and heavy right now,” said Shannon Scott, one-half of the ownership team of footwear manufacturer ComunityMade. J Sustainability hasn’t been a top reason that brands have historically looked to the U.S. as a sourcing destination—but it is a benefit that they’re coming to appreciate more than ever before. “Until very recently, there just hasn’t been another option besides Asia. Our job now is to promote that there’s an option here,” added partner and co-founder Sean Scott. J Known for its small-batch production, inventive engineering and focus on next-generation materials, the manufacturer has baked sustainability into its business model since it opened in 2017. And brands are increasingly gravitating to the producer’s unique value proposition, looking to ComunityMade and its close-knit network of supply chain partners as a viable, valuable resource rather than a mere alternative to a fraying global value chain.
“With domestic manufacturing, any brand can come here and make shoes here and automatically they’re going to be more sustainable than making things overseas, just by the nature of not shipping things back and forth across the ocean, and by taking advantage of the sustainability guidelines that we have in place” in California, Sean Scott said.
“We’re trying to figure out with the coalition that we’ve got here in our immediate radius how we can make the manufacturing process even more streamlined,” added Shannon Scott.
From footwear and leather goods factory Lalaland to 3D-knitting operation KX Labs and Malibu-based CAD/CAM 3D-knitting software provider Variant3D, the LA area is stacked with players looking to revolutionize the art of footwear production and push it deep into the 21st century. These outfits aren’t interested in beating China on cheap, fossil-fuel-laden throwaway shoes—they want to usher in an era focused on material innovation, smart product engineering and circularity, the Scotts said.
Alongside such partners, ComunityMade is working to bring circular and zero-waste products to market. “A lot of us have been working on things like a glueless construction— where these parts can be separated and processed properly” at a product’s end of life, Sean Scott said by way of example.
With its contemporaries, the manufacturer
is also working to create mono-material silhouettes that can be recycled into new product at the end of their useful life. “The upper is stretchy and fits to the foot, the midsole is a super cushy foam that looks like EVA, and the outsole looks like rubber— but it’s all actually the same material, 3D printed,” he added.
These processes will be coming to market over the coming months, he said, and the partners anticipate that a truly circular shoe may take shape in about two years’ time.
The LA collective is also working on 3D-printed molds to replace “the big, heavy steel molds that that we use to make the midsoles and outsoles,” and other components that go into a pair of shoes. According to Scott, technology has advanced to the point where 3D-printed molds can withstand the pressure and high temperatures needed for molding, providing an alternative to the costly, resource-heavy steel tools.
“I think the future construction methods that we’re talking about that allow for scale and a lot less waste of material seem to be striking a really positive chord with brands,” Shannon Scott said. “I think really looking at the conversation holistically—designing for end of life, using the most sustainable materials possible, and constructing them in a way that is circular—is the way people should be thinking.”
The Scotts acknowledged that American makers must be on the leading edge of innovation in order to differentiate themselves from the world’s leading sourcing hubs.
They spoke to a recent project carried out with Portland, Ore. plant-based apparel and footwear brand Unless Collective, which was recently acquired by Under Armour. “The Degenerate”—a plastic-free, biodegradable sneaker made with Natural Fiber Welding’s Clarus recycled cotton, a linen-covered coconut fiber insole, Tunera natural foam rubber and cork cushioning and a natural rubber outsole—challenged ComunityMade to adapt and solve design challenges unique to next-gen, eco-friendly materials.
“We learned that working with that recycled rubber took extra care; we learned that pulling linen thread through various materials caused friction; we learned that olive oil is a very good lubricant,” Sean Scott said.
“Everyone was willing to get their hands dirty—or oily. They were willing to tinker and experiment. It was really refreshing when we said, ‘I don’t know how to do this,’ and they said, ‘We don’t know either, but let’s figure it out,’” Shannon Scott added. “And that’s how sustainable innovation is going to work. That’s how domestic manufacturing is going to become competitive. It’s going to take people getting their hands dirty, and a willingness to experiment.”
It’s projects like these—and hopefully, ones supported by larger players to come— that will move the needle in driving down costs and advancing sustainable domestic production, they believe.
“That’s the number one reason that people don’t produce in the U.S.: costs are three to four times higher,” Shannon Scott added. “If we can take that pain point away, and you start doing the math around transportation, duties, and then all the new tariffs… [costs are] getting a lot closer than they’ve ever been.” Factor in the additional benefits of smaller minimum order quantities, less waste, a lower carbon footprint, “and it’s just getting to be a much smarter proposition.”
It’s up to American manufacturers to continue to prove the concept to brands, though, and while success in that area has been accelerating, Sean Scott said the suppliers are pushing harder than ever.
“I think it occurred to us relatively recently—this collective, this community of shoe manufacturing in LA—that we’re going to have to make it happen. We’re all hustling to get suppliers here and technology here and raw materials here,” he said.
“We’re still small operations, and we have these really great customers who, out of desire or need, are doing things differently. But what we really need is consistent investment from a from bigger customers,” he added.
ComunityMade isn’t looking for a handout, or a “big brother or big sister” to propel its growth. “There is already manufacturing infrastructure here, and real competitive advantages to doing business here,” he asserted. “We need somebody to recognize that, to actually commit to supporting it, and they’ll get a lot in return.”
Partner and Fashion District neighbor Alex Zar, who owns premium footwear and handbag factory Lalaland, said the future of American footwear manufacturing will hinge on the ability to create greater stateside manufacturing efficiency.
“For the next cycle of the economy we must try to reinvent ourselves and look at what we have learned from traditional manufacturing and what we can do to improve future manufacturing,” he said. “What are the obstacles and what are the opportunities? We’ve realized that labor is the most important part of the competitive edge—that’s why most companies moved overseas for manufacturing.”
According to Zar, labor has been a pain point for U.S. suppliers—both in terms of capacity and cost. There’s no pipeline for new workers for cut-and-sew, cobbling and artisan handcrafting operations, even in LA, the nation’s fashion production capital.
“Factory to factory, of course the labor rate is much lower [overseas],” he added.
SUSTAINABILITY
IS JUST A SLOGAN UNLESS YOU MAKE IT COMMERCIALLY VIABLE.”
Alex Zar, Lalaland
“No matter what you do, you might not be able to compete.”
However, taking into account risk factors like duties, inventory liability and a lack of long-term projections for market demand, stateside production is starting to look downright practical to some brands, he said. “If you add those costs together, then all of a sudden you see we are capable of producing domestically and reducing our impact.”
G
Shannon
To do so, the archaic footwear production strategy has to change. “Rather than push system that the industry is right now sitting on”—where brands wastefully churn out product at a breakneck pace—“it must be more of a pull system, which will be based on demand and based on a quick-to-market response,” Zar said.
“And that’s where we will have the advantage of domestic production, because we can do a quick turn-around, shorter cycle to the customer, and produce only what it is the market needs.”
Lalaland has invested in the most cuttingedge technologies available, from 3D bonding to direct-injection soling, automated sewing and pattern-cutting, and 3D printing and knitting—efficiency-driving, waste-reducing practices that allow the factory to churn out product with less labor.
Like the Scotts, Zar believes appealing to the industry’s brand leaders—some of whom are already customers—is the way to put American manufacturing on the map. It can also shine a spotlight on the boundarybreaking work that domestic producers are embarking on to revolutionize an industry long tied to waste and excess.
“Our network here in LA, they have the same vision. Rather than competing, we have created this coalition together that [brands] can work with,” Zar said.
“Sustainability is just a slogan unless you make it commercially viable.”
E Footwear crafted at Lalaland in Downtown, LA’s Fashion District.
H ComunityMade’s showroom and factory in Downtown, LA
Scott, cofounder and president of ComunityMade, alongside Sean Scott, co-founder and CEO.
HOW CALIK’S RAW AND LUXE CONCEPTS GO AGAINST THE COMMERCIAL DENIM GRAIN
IIT’S NO SURPRISE that denim significantly contributes to waste generation, with a study finding approximately 2.16 million tons of waste are produced annually from jeans. Much of this waste ends up in landfills or is incinerated, leading to greenhouse gas emissions and environmental damage.
Two ways to shrink denim in landfills are to make biodegradable jeans and create denim that will stay in consumers’ closets for longer. Responding to the need for more sustainable options, Calik Denim is enhancing its offerings on both these fronts.
Here, Mehmet Serdar Özcan, sales director at Calik Denim, discusses how the eco-conscious Turkish denim mill is meeting the evolving demands of the market through innovations like RawTech and biodegradable B210 technology.
SOURCING JOURNAL: What are some of the latest sustainable developments from Calik Denim?
Mehmet Serdar Özcan: We recently launched RawTech, which motivates our customers to skip traditional, unsustainable industrial washes by offering a raw denim experience. This innovative approach combines the coveted spirit of Japanese denim with modern manufacturing processes to deliver a clean, high-end look. RawTech ensures low weft shrinkage even for highly elastic fabrics and provides wider width options perfect for slim and skinny jeans. Additionally, it offers authentic green cast colors and a range of choices among rigid, comfort stretch and power stretch articles.
“AT CALIK DENIM, WE CONSISTENTLY PRIORITIZE SUSTAINABLE PRACTICES IN EVERY STAGE OF PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT AND COLLECTION CREATION.”
MEHMET SERDAR ÖZCAN , sales director, Calik Denim
Aside from RawTech, we also have other eco-friendly solutions like the biodegradable B210 technology. Launched in 2022, the solution—which is a combination of unique yarn technology with a special finishing process—allows synthetic fibers to biodegrade in 210 days, eliminating textile waste. The process is also nontoxic for soil. B210 is applicable to all of Calik’s stretch fabrics.
In our upcoming collection, we are also increasing the use of high-quality linen and hemp blends.
How will Calik’s latest fabric concept, Royal Denim, elevate the perception of denim for brands and consumers?
M.S.Ö: Royal Denim is a fabric concept designed for highend and formal wear, blending organic cotton with cashmere, silk, hemp and linen to create fabrics with distinctive textures and character.
Royal Denim represents Calik’s response to the increasing interest from designer brands in denim and the consumer demand for understated luxury. Since its debut, prestigious brands like Kiton, Prada, Armani, Gucci and Dolce & Gabbana have expressed interest in collaborating with us.
The Royal Denim collection meets the demand for premium quality and easy tailoring while offering excellent color fastness and minimal shrinkage to preserve the fit and appearance of these investment pieces.
What steps is Calik taking to adopt a more responsible production model and pioneer eco-friendly solutions?
M.S.Ö: Collaborations and foundations focused on human health are driving the trend
toward biodegradable products, which are gaining consumer interest and are expected to have an even greater impact in the future.
At Calik Denim, we consistently prioritize sustainable practices in every stage of product development and collection creation. Adhering to these principles is a core aspect of our policy.
How has the current sustainability landscape shaped the priorities and goals you have for 2025?
M.S.Ö: We are continuously introducing new articles and innovative concepts that reflect our commitment to eco-friendly fabric practices. Recently, we showcased our efforts to transform the denim supply chain at the Third Annual Meeting of the United Nations Fashion and Lifestyle Network in New York City. Rukiye Kuzu, Calik Denim’s marketing executive, highlighted our adoption of a more responsible production model and our pioneering eco-friendly solutions, including the biodegradable B210 technology. She also outlined our sustainability vision and strategy, noting our investments in regenerative agriculture and eco-industrial projects featuring regenerative cotton. Additionally, Kuzu announced that the Fall/ Winter 24-25 collection will include Regenagri-certified regenerative cotton, with plans to expand this focus in future collections. ■
Authentic Agilit y
THE INDIA OPPORTUNITY
Canopy said an investment of between $13 billion and $15.6 billion is needed to build India’s infrastructure to support the production of next-gen fibers. by Alexandra Harrell
canopy believes India is better poised than anyone else to become a global leader in next-generation materials—potentially producing over 10 million tons of these next-gen fibers annually. It just requires an investment between $13 billion to $15.6 billion to do so. J“India has all the ingredients—abundant feedstock, technical expertise and a culture of innovation, Canopy’s founder and executive director Nicole Rycroft said. “What’s needed now is targeted investment, industry collaboration and government support to scale this vision into reality.”
These ingredients were further explored in “Unlocking India’s Next Gen Economy: The (Untapped) Investment Frontiers in Material Substitution in India’s Textile and Pulp and Paper Industries,” a 36-page paper released during Prabhav 2024, an investment forum run by the India Impact Investors Council (IIIC). Ultimately, the paper underscores India’s “enormous potential” to transform 100 million tons of agricultural residues and two million tons of polyester-cotton textile waste into valuable low-carbon paper, packaging and viscose for domestic and global markets.
With that in mind, the environmental nonprofit has set an “ambitious goal” of catalyzing 60 million tons of next-gen pulp, paper and textiles globally over the next decade. That undertaking would need a cool $78 billion.
“This scale-up would displace primary and restoration-priority forests from the ‘fiber basket’ and, in doing so, help support global climate and planetary targets,” the report
reads. “In catalyzing fiber and supply chain innovation, pulping technology and new infrastructure for the recycling, pulping and processing of low-carbon next-gen fibers, several regions have an exciting opportunity to be at the forefront of the global transition to low-impact materials.”
India plays a “pivotal role” in this transition as the No. 1 region in mind for this opportunity, given its abundance of agricultural residues and textile waste. Over the next decade, an estimated $13 billion to $15.6 billion of investment would position India as a prominent, preferred supplier of low-carbon pulp and its end products on the global market.
“A concerted, industrial development strategy that aligns technology, feedstock supply, national and global policies, skill development and investment to address urgent issues of climate, pollution, poverty and biodiversity loss is compelling,” per the paper. “A focused, early infusion of climate finance capital into both innovation and
infrastructure to simultaneously build up next-gen feedstock delivery and pulping capacity would support the decarbonization of two key industrial sectors—paper and textiles—through material substitution and create an opportunity for India and several other nations to take global leadership.”
The investment would not only reduce greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions but also create a “new industrial ecosystem” that generates jobs in under-resourced communities by providing substantial financial, environmental and human health benefits, the Ganni-backed organization said.
“While this is a relatively new investment area, low-impact fibers and materials will become a crucial strategy as the world moves
WHILE THIS IS A RELATIVELY NEW INVESTMENT AREA, LOW-IMPACT FIBERS AND MATERIALS WILL BECOME A CRUCIAL STRATEGY AS THE WORLD MOVES RAPIDLY TOWARD DECARBONIZING INDUSTRIAL MANUFACTURING.”
rapidly toward decarbonizing industrial manufacturing,” Rycroft said. “We’re excited to work with all of the ecosystem actors as India accelerates the scaling of next-gen materials.”
Local support in India comes from brands including Flipkart and Anita Dongre as well as viscose supplier Birla Cellulose, joining the 980-plus Canopy partners working to transition the industry from the conventional “take, make, waste” production model to the circular economy.
Used clothes thrown into the river Jhelum by local residents are creating pollution while
fisherman is catching fish in Sopore District, Baramulla, Jammu and Kashmir, India.
Nicole Rycroft, Canopy
ACCELERATING MMCF ADOPTION WITH RESPONSIBLE FORESTRY AND CIRCULAR FIBERS
MMUCH OF GARMENTS’ total environmental footprints stem from the raw materials used, making fiber selection more than an aesthetic or design choice.
Situated between natural and synthetic materials, man-made cellulosic fibers (MMCF) are produced in factories by dissolving wood pulp—a renewable resource— and spinning the solution into fiber. These regenerated plantbased materials have inherent environmental benefits, but India’s Birla Cellulose (the pulp and fiber arm of Aditya Birla Group) is one of the leaders further enhancing the sustainability of viscose staple fibers by sourcing wood responsibly, reducing water usage and cutting carbon emissions from fiber production. The fiber maker is also investing in circular solutions, using textile waste as a resource for new viscose fibers.
Due to their sustainability profile as well as properties like absorbency and softness, MMCF adoption is picking up. “MMCF has been a very sustainable fiber and a great substitute for resource-intensive natural cellulosic fibers,” said ManMohan Singh, chief marketing officer at Birla Cellulose. “Based on these credentials, MMCFs are now the preferred fibers.”
Here, Singh lays out how Birla Cellulose is cutting carbon and advancing circularity with facility updates and fiber innovation.
SOURCING JOURNAL: Birla has come out on top in the last few Hot Button reports from Canopy. What does this mean for Birla and the companies sourcing your fibers?
ManMohan Singh: The Canopy Hot Button Report has become an essential tool for the fashion industry for nearly a decade now as it helps in understanding how MMCF producers are eliminating wood coming from controversial sources. This has
given an assurance to companies sourcing our fibers that MMCF from Birla Cellulose is coming from sustainable sources. We are proud to be in the top category of this report and believe sustainable management of forests is extremely important for the protection of ancient and endangered forests, biodiversity as well as to fight against climate change.
You have set the goal of cutting greenhouse gas emissions by half by 2030. What steps are you taking to reduce carbon emissions in your manufacturing facilities to reach this target?
M.S.: The strategy involves the development of innovative solutions to increase circularity and improve resource efficiency to mitigate environmental impacts. We have demonstrated improved efficiencies with optimum use of raw materials, which will help our objective of a lowered environmental footprint. While making continuous improvements to our manufacturing facilities, we have invested in renewable energy, while simultaneously working towards adopting other clean energy sources. We are exploring avenues to replace fossil
VISCOSE FIBER [IS] AN IDEAL CIRCULAR FIBER AS COTTON-RICH TEXTILE WASTE CAN BE UTILIZED TO MAKE VISCOSE FIBER UNDER TEXTILE-TO-TEXTILE RECYCLING.”
fuel-based energy, use alternate fuel to replace coal, make energy efficiency improvements in our processes, increase digitalization and other initiatives.
One investment area for Birla has been your circular Liva Reviva fibers, and you recently expanded the portion of textile waste in these fibers to 30 percent. Why is viscose so “tailor made” for circularity?
M.S.: Viscose is regenerated natural cellulose from wood chips. Textile waste that is rich in cotton can be dissolved back to cellulosic pulp under a controlled process, and the recycled pulp can be used as feedstock that is regenerated
as viscose fiber. The tailor-made recycling process makes viscose fiber an ideal circular fiber as cotton-rich textile waste can be utilized to make viscose fiber under textile-to-textile recycling.
You’ve dubbed lyocell the “Fiber of the Future.” How is Birla scaling up the production of the lower impact material?
M.S.: Birla Cellulose is the only company which has lyocell fiber made in India: Birla Excel. Our Birla Excel fibers are used domestically by the Indian textile value chain. We have plans to add fiber capacity for Birla Excel going forward as the demand for lyocell fiber continues to grow. ■
MANMOHAN SINGH , chief marketing officer, Birla Cellulose
INSIDE FASHION’S RACE FOR CIRCULAR POLYESTER
Bottle-to-textile is on its way out as a sustainable solution. Can a textile-to-textile version replace it? by Jasmin Malik Chua
inditex has earmarked tens of millions of euros into securing a pipeline of textile waste-derived polyester from Ambercycle. H&M Group is snapping up capacity of Syre’s so-called “circular” polyester to the tune of $600 million. Patagonia and Zalando have placed million-dollar bets, with potential future dibs, on Circ’s ability to separate the fibers in polyester-cotton-blended clothing and transmute them into new garments. And Sanko Group, owner of one of the world’s largest denim producers, is sparing no expense on plans to turn 1 million tons of polyester-cotton waste into grist for “next-gen” fibers by 2030. J None of these material innovators are firing on all cylinders—at least when it comes to commercial-scale plants—yet a quiet race is shaping up, if not among the companies themselves then against time and the status quo of cheap, plenteous and disposable clothing maintained by virgin polyester’s ultralow cost, versatility and extensive, well-oiled infrastructure.
The small, limited-time ranges that occasionally rear their heads are part of a test-and-iterate process to make sure the technologies not only work but can also adapt to existing supply chains without too many time-consuming tweaks. Critically, the results must also vie with incumbent synthetics’ price and performance.
“The race has very much started,” said Luke Henning, chief business officer at Circ, which is headquartered in Virginia. “I just don’t think everyone who’s in that race has realized that.”
As competition for castoff plastic bottles ramps up, so too is momentum for an alternative to bottle-to-textile recycling that has been turning one industry’s circular feedstock into another’s future landfill fodder. While used plastic bottles can be transformed into new ones almost indefinitely, they’re far less likely to get another lease on life once converted into textiles.
Even so, the overwhelming majority of recycled polyester available today originates from bottles made from polyethylene terephthalate, or PET. With even the buzziest startups still on the knife-edge of achieving maturity, textile-to-textile recycling accounted for less than 1 percent of the regenerated stuff in 2022, according to sustainability trade group Textile Exchange. Virgin polyester itself occupies 54 percent of the overall materials pie.
Changing this state of affairs has become increasingly urgent. Worsening climate change is fueling a growing backlash of fashion’s reliance on fossil-fuel-based materials such as virgin polyester, and legislation such as the European Union’s forthcoming green claims directive could ban unsubstantiated marketing-speak that bottle-to-textile recycled polyester is better for the planet.
At the same time, if brands with public recycled-content commitments make good on their pledges, the demand for rPET in the United States alone is poised to surpass supply by roughly three times by 2030, according to consulting giant McKinsey & Co.
The preponderance of textile waste inundating the global South is another existential problem. In countries like Ghana, Kenya and Chile, moldering piles of discarded clothing have become an indelible part of the landscape.
“We have relied too long on other organizations to manage, sort and build value into these items—and what has that turned into? An overload on the global system that shifts the burden to other places and communities of the world that also don’t know what to do with it and how to maintain value beyond waste,” said Krystle Moody Wood, founder and principal at Materevolve, a sustainable textile consultancy from California.
Wood, a former materials manager at The North Face, was an early proponent of bottleto-textile recycling. Now, knowing what we know, she said, it no longer makes sense.
“It makes 100 percent sense for us to follow, take in, manage and own the process of the textile and clothing items at the end of its life,” Wood said. “We, the creators of textile goods, are the most experienced and knowledgeable about what goes in, what to do with it, and how to maintain the best value.”
The soul of fashion is also at stake, said Nemanthie Kooragamage, director of product creation and sustainable business at Sri Lankan clothing manufacturer MAS Holdings, which last month signed a threeyear offtake agreement to clinch an initial 4,000 tons of Ambercycle’s Cycora—enough to make 15 million meters of recycled polyester fabric for clients such as Calvin Klein, Marks & Spencer and Victoria’s Secret that may not have the wherewithal or inclination to nab their own supply.
MAS is also a member of Circ-Ready, a community of mills with a demonstrated ability to produce premium products using Circ materials, including AGI Denim, Selenis, Soorty Denimkind, Tainan Spinning Co. and the Taiwan Textile Research Institute. But for every company that puts its money where its mouth is when promoting lower-impact materials, more hang back on the sidelines, Kooragamage said.
“In our industry, there’s a big gap between intention and action,” she said. “I think it’s time that we decide as an industry whether we actually want to make this transformation or not.”
FINDING SCALE IN A HOPELESS PLACE
That these efforts are taking place amid rampant geopolitical tensions and massive economic uncertainty isn’t lost on anyone. Brands and retailers, whose buy-in is critical to next-generation materials’ success, are more price-sensitive than ever and less likely to take a chance on something new. It’s this harsh reality that experts say led, at least in part, to the downfall of Renewcell before the Swedish textile recycler was rescued from bankruptcy by private equity firm Altor and rechristened after its dissolving pulp, Circulose. H&M had also backed Renewcell until it said that it could no longer shoulder the brunt of the investment by itself. When Syre came online shortly after, accompanied by H&M’s announcement that it had signed a seven-year offtake agreement, the surprise from industry watchers was palpable.
But maybe it shouldn’t have been. Renewcell trafficked in man-made cellulosic fiber, which accounts for 6 percent of H&M’s materials basket, versus 23 percent for polyester. Other brands boast not only similar breakdowns but also similar public commitments to phase out virgin polyester, with some, like Inditex and Patagonia, gunning to do so as early as 2025.
“There’s definitely a higher demand and much greater panic around the supply of textile-to-textile polyester because [companies] are feeling the lack of access to circular polyester or even bottle-to-textile,” Henning said. “There are a lot of plants being developed now for bottle-to-bottle and there’s a real shortage of good flake available because now bottling companies need all of those bottles back. So there’s a shortfall between supply and demand already. And it’s going to grow significantly.”
Feedstock cost is another driver, one that could eventually outweigh the initial markup a novel material might bring, said Roman Park, performance leader at Hyosung TNC, a South Korean textile manufacturer that is helping Ambercycle integrate Cycora into its customers’ supply chains. Hyosung developed Regen, Korea’s first recycled polyester fiber, using plastic bottles. Now it’s anticipating another shift in the needs of the market it serves.
“Waste PET bottles are becoming more of a resource needed in the packaging industry through various new regulations, rather than a resource regenerated in the textile industry,” he said. “Recyclers now expect the feedstock
G MAS Holdings recently signed a three-year offtake agreement to clinch an initial 4,000 tons of Ambercycle’s Cycora.
There’s a good reason why some material innovators are taking a more considered approach to expansion. Renewcell, some observers say, grew too fast and too quickly by establishing an industrial-level plant in Sweden before it had secured enough orders to keep its expensive machines running. Sethi has been keen to get “pieces of paper with signatures on them” that demonstrate a buyer’s procurement commitment first.
“Without that, it’s just extremely hard to build a facility, even though people have done so in the past,” he said. “You need a hard, binding commitment with price and volume lined up and you need to build a strong
cost of abandoned PET bottles will go up and will become more expensive than the cost of textile waste.”
The problem—and it’s a big one—is scale, or, rather, the lack thereof. Forging infrastructure where there is none is a heavy lift, requiring partnerships with textile collectors, sorters, reverse logistics providers and machinists. Most circular polyester purveyors are still working—at best—at the pilot level, with full-scale facilities still several years away, though Syre is hoping to have the bare bones of a “blueprint” plant in North Carolina by the close of 2024 and Sanko’s Re&Up venture plans to significantly increase its capacity with a factory capable of pumping out 200,000 tons of recycled polyester and cotton fibers in its native Turkey by next year.
Circ has been running what it calls “piloting assets” in Ohio and Virginia for the past three years, and Ambercycle churns out roughly 2 tons of fiber per day at a demonstration facility in Wisconsin. Henning expects Circ to build a factory toward the end of 2026, with operations starting up the following year. Shay Sethi, founder and CEO of Ambercycle, which is based in Los Angeles, told a reporter to ask him again in a couple of months.
“Right now we are looking at, if we needed to produce, you know, tens of thousands of tons a year, where can we do that? We are almost finalized with a plan,” Sethi said. “The goal is to build a first commercial-scale plant, deliver on the Inditex contract, deliver on a couple of other key contracts that we have initiated and then, if that all goes well, scale up beyond that.”
IN OUR INDUSTRY, THERE’S A BIG GAP BETWEEN INTENTION AND ACTION.
I THINK IT’S TIME THAT WE DECIDE AS AN INDUSTRY WHETHER WE ACTUALLY WANT TO MAKE THIS TRANSFORMATION OR NOT.”
Nemanthie Kooragamage, MAS Holdings
relationship with buyers. Without that, it’s kind of risky because you could wake up one day, you have the plant running, your technology is done, but where’s the product going to go?”
Syre, on the other hand, doesn’t see securing offtake agreements versus scaling production as mutually exclusive strategies. But then it’s moving fast—and vast. While it’s starting with North Carolina because that’s where Premirr Plastic, the company behind its patented technology, is from and where it expects its research and development to continue, Syre also has its eye on constructing facilities in Vietnam and the Iberian Peninsula in 2025. Eventually, it plans to operate a network of 12 setups worldwide that would collectively pump out more than 3 million metric tons of its circular polyester within the next decade.
“We’ll probably do it in parallel,” said CEO Dennis Nobelius. “We see a benefit of teaming up with the brands, but we will not limit ourselves to that. So we’ll secure capacity in the plants but also have some spare capacity for the spot market. Because it’s simply good business and we can make more customers use [the fiber] in the future.”
Circ is still evaluating sites, though it’s not looking to break ground in North Carolina
as has been previously reported. Both Asia and Europe are “still in contention,” Henning said. And while the United States isn’t out as a candidate just yet, it has its downsides, chief of which is the lack of post-industrial waste streams that are cleaner, easier and faster to sort and process.
“All of these companies are starting on postindustrial [clothing] because it’s the lowest risk feedstock and if you want money to build your facility, you go with low risk,” he said. “The U.S. doesn’t have that much by way of access to post-industrial in the same way.”
Incentives for green businesses are also “much more advanced” in places like the European Union,” Henning said. “There’s a very strong will to get this done in Europe, where, in a lot of ways, regulation is much further progressed. That’s not to say the U.S. isn’t waking up and starting to play catch up. It’s just that with the development cycles, for most people, that is a challenge.”
POLYESTER BY ANY OTHER NAME
There’s no one way to make textile-to-textile recycled polyester. Some use a combination of chemical and thermomechanical recycling. Others use a depolymerization process to break components down to the monomer level. One decision everyone had to make early on, however, was what to call their output.
Syre has adopted the term “circular polyester,” or cPET, to distinguish it from conventional recycled polyester that is “used once and then you cannot use it anymore, so it’s a downgraded solution,” Nobelius said.
The moniker is also meant to signpost the fact that Syre’s alternative can be reused over and over again with the production of far less carbon dioxide—a savings of up to 85 percent—
enable to production of new recycled materials that “were not on the market before,” said Marco Lucietti, its head of global marketing and communications.
Henning said that Circ calls its fibers Circ lyocell and Circ polyester “to keep it as clean as possible.”
“It was kind of deliberate on our part in that functionally what is this? It’s polyester,” he said. “And so it’s recycled to the Circ process, but it’s still polyester. When we were looking at this, we did a bit of a naming exercise and we realized there were 400-odd names for man-made cellulosic fibers. And we were like, we want clarity to the customer.”
Circular polyester won’t solve all of virgin polyester’s ills. Microplastics, for instance, though more research is necessary to understand and determine shed rates from recycled as opposed to virgin materials.
“Circular polyester, like any form of polyester, can shed microplastics and microfibers during wear and washing,” said Georgia Parker, innovation director at Fashion for Good, a sustainable innovation platform based in Amsterdam that works with Ambercycle, Circ and Syre. “While the focus on textile-to-textile is primarily on reducing waste, the concern of microplastic pollution is one we should consider.”
Design can play a large part in mitigating the issue, Lucietti said. Sanko subsidiary Isko, for instance, has already developed fabrics that place Re&Up’s next-gen polyester at the core of its yarn, a tack that “significantly” reduces microfiber shedding while improving durability and longevity.
It’s one of the benefits of being your own customer, he said. Sanko and Isko had high standards that Re&Up had to meet, even though they were, essentially, the same
than petrochemical-based polyester. “Circular polyester” isn’t something Syre plans to trademark. As far as Nobelius is concerned, it’s easier for everyone to refer to textile-to-textile recycled polyester by the same shorthand. Ambercycle also uses the term “circular polyester,” along with “regenerated textiles” to describe Cycora because “recycled” no longer carries the “right connotation,” Sethi said. Re&Up is sticking with “next-gen cotton” and “next-gen polyester” because its technologies
company. This included price competitiveness. Re&Up doesn’t “believe in the green premium,” Lucietti said. “If you want to make an impact, you have to make products available.”
But the fact is nothing is cheaper than virgin polyester, which is why it’s so widely employed. Syre expects a 50-cent per-garment premium on its product, at least in the beginning, when economies of scale haven’t set in. Sethi said that Cycora has a higher cost,
albeit one that “isn’t crazy.” Circ’s Henning declined to reveal how much more Circ polyester might cost, though he noted that virgin prices were “really, really low” last year, which made circular polyester a harder sell.
“There is more work to do for our industry when it comes to optimizing the value chain for early-stage innovations, that will make it simpler for producers to scale their innovations and reduce pricing,” an H&M spokesperson said. “Furthermore, our industry needs to collaborate to enable the scaling of these innovations with the required investments. By driving demand, we also drive production efficiency and competitive pricing of new materials.”
Another way forward: Legislating extended producer responsibility for textiles the way the European Union’s waste framework directive and California’s textile recycling bill seek to do.
“I think we’re going to see taxes on virgin materials, not just for polyester but across the board,” Henning said. “I think we’re going to see people start to think about how you price in not just the financial cost of these materials, but everything else. There are tariffs on synthetics in a lot of countries. Could you remove the tariffs if there’s a certain amount of recycled content?”
Material innovators frequently talk about the “valley of death,” the precarious passage from lab-scale to commercial viability that not everyone can successfully traverse. It’s why several investors are hedging their bets with different startups. In addition to Ambercycle, Inditex has poured money into Circ, including by incorporating its fibers in a capsule collection for Zara. H&M’s Co:Lab was also part of a Series A financing for Ambercycle, a 2016 winner of H&M Foundation’s Global Change Award. Drive Catalyst, the venture capital arm of Taiwanese textile giant Far Eastern Group has funneled $5 million into Ambercycle and an undisclosed sum in Circ to get them off the ground. Proparco, which is partly owned by the French Development Agency, has invested in Circ through Circulate Capital and in Re&Up as the underwriter of a $75.9 million loan.
Having multiple material innovators is crucial for several reasons, said Priyanka Khana, innovation director for scaling at Fashion for Good. Different companies bring unique approaches to complex recycling challenges, “driving technological advancements and efficiency through competition and reducing reliance on a single solution,” she said. They can also target various markets and regions, making solutions more accessible and therefore scalable.
Henning pointed out that virgin synthetics have had 80 years to optimize, which means that challengers are fighting “deeply entrenched systems that are going to resist change.” It took solar decades, for instance, to overtake coal “solely on an economic basis,” he said.
Fashion may not be able to wait as long. If, for whatever reason, bottle-to-textile polyester no longer becomes an option, that’s 9.5 million tons of material that will need to be replaced, Henning said. Most textile-to-textile recycling facilities can manage only 30,000 tons of circular polyester at a time, if that. Even several 300,000-ton-per-year setups will barely scratch the surface. If fashion doesn’t make bolder moves now, it could find itself with a stark material deficit when regulation kicks in and it’s left with no other choice.
Henning returned to the race metaphor.
“Like I said, some people are at the starting line but they’re asleep and dreaming,” he said.
G A Syre flow chart of the circular value chain.
HOW PANTHER DENIM CHAMPIONS A ‘CULTURE OF SUSTAINABILITY’ THROUGH TEXTILE INNOVATION
SSINCE ITS INCEPTION in 1986, Panther Denim has been working to create a more sustainable denim industry. Now, the fully integrated textile manufacturing company is taking its efforts one step further, focusing on innovative approaches to raw materials.
Here, Tim Huesemann, sales director at Panther Denim, discusses how the China-based mill is setting new standards for environmental responsibility in the denim sector with its latest sustainable innovations—from Downtown to Planet Indigo.
SOURCING JOURNAL: Panther Denim is constantly innovating to keep up with market demands. How does your latest sustainable collection, Downtown, serve the denim industry?
Tim Huesemann: Our Downtown denim, launched at Kingpins Show Amsterdam in April 2024, is a top choice for customers seeking sustainable options. What sets Downtown apart is its minimal need for chemicals and water; it requires only a simple rinse wash to be ready to wear, significantly reducing its environmental impact. The durable blue shade also ensures the jeans maintain a fresh, new appearance for longer. Our research shows that many people prefer the raw, dark look of denim, but traditional jeans often fade quickly, prompting consumers to buy new pairs. Downtown offers a perfect solution by preserving the raw look over time, similar to other trousers. We believe that sustainability goes beyond providing eco-friendly alternatives; it’s about fostering a culture of sustainability.
“WE ARE NOT ONLY RESPONDING TO CUSTOMER NEEDS BUT ALSO USING OUR EXPERTISE TO SHAPE A BETTER FUTURE THROUGH INNOVATIVE PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT.”
TIM
HUESEMANN , sales director, Panther Denim
On the topic of new innovations, one of your upcoming launches is Planet Indigo. Could you explain the concept, and what are some notable pieces, fabrics or practices associated with this collection?
T.H.: Planet Indigo will be launched at Kingpins Show Amsterdam this October. During the event, we will conduct a workshop with our partner Shuise—an expert in natural plant indigo dyeing—introducing designers to the art of natural indigo dyeing.
The unique shade of natural indigo, distinct from synthetic versions, ensures that each piece is one-of-a-kind and stunning. The depth and character of natural indigo are difficult to
convey in words. Our Planet Indigo collection, a collaboration with Shuise, features only natural plant indigo. The dyeing process is as eco-friendly as you can imagine, reflecting our commitment to sustainability. Both our Planet Indigo and Downtown collections exemplify our commitment to enriching that culture through responsible denim choices.
How does Panther’s use of solar energy impact its overall energy consumption?
T.H.: Our annual solar energy capacity is 11 million kilowatt hours (kWh), with 30 percent
of our company’s energy derived from solar panels. This substantial use of solar energy significantly reduces our reliance on conventional sources, making us more adaptable and resilient. We are currently researching ways to increase the percentage of solar energy we use, aiming to further enhance our sustainability and energy efficiency.
As a main player in circularity, what can the denim industry teach the broader apparel industry about increasing sustainable innovations?
T.H.: We believe in taking proactive steps rather than waiting for customer feedback. As a fabric mill, we are committed to leveraging our expertise to offer a wider range of sustainable products. While reducing water usage by 50 percent is beneficial, we aim to go further by developing entirely new concepts that not only reduce production impacts but also transform consumer behavior. Although creating gamechanging fabrics is challenging, we are determined to seize every opportunity. We are not only responding to customer needs but also using our expertise to shape a better future through innovative product development. ■
BLUE TO GREEN
are
the denim industry is always challenging itself to do better, and it often starts with mills. From trialing nextgen fibers and developing new performance weaves to partnering with suppliers to streamline processes, global denim mills are active participants in ensuring the industry’s more sustainable and responsible future.
Here’s a look at how six mills are innovating their Fall/ Winter 2025-2026 collections with sustainable fabrics.
1
ADVANCE DENIM
Kinetic Denim, a fabric Advance Denim developed with Denham exclusively for the 2024 Dutch Olympic team, is now available to the rest of the world.
The ultra-light 6 oz. denim with thermoregulating qualities is the result of Advance Denim engineering two cutting-edge materials: wafer fiber and aerogel. Woven with a double-weave construction, the fabric is lightweight, breathable and moisture wicking.
Alice Chan, Advance Denim’s marketing director, described aerogel as a remarkable material for textile applications. “Composed of over 80 percent air, it is the lightest solid substance on Earth, possessing a density [of] merely one-sixth that of standard air,” she said. “In addition to its featherlight nature, aerogel also exhibits antistatic properties and demonstrates excellent moisture management capabilities. These combined attributes result in a comfortable, easy-care fabric that elevates the wearer’s experience.”
Wafer fiber has a hollow honeycomb structure, which provides thermal insulation properties. Chan added that wafer can absorb moisture at a rate three times faster than traditional cotton.
Advance Denim integrated sustainable elements into the fabric design, including Tencel fibers and liquid indigo dyes that have a significantly lower environmental impact compared to traditional dyeing methods.
Kinetic Denim made its debut as the Dutch team’s uniforms for the opening and closing ceremonies of the Paris 2024 Olympics this summer. The fabric is now available to other companies in several colors.
ARTISTIC MILLINERS
Artistic Milliners strikes a perfect balance between softness and durability with Shogun II, the Pakistani mill’s second collection with renowned Japanese textile expert, Masaaki Sakaguchi. Shogun II expands on the original concept to modernize Japanese denim for today’s consumers by combining aspects such as comfort and eco-conscious production.
The fabrics utilize Tencel, recycled cotton and responsibly grown cotton from the mill’s community-led Milliner’s Cotton Initiative.
E Artistic Milliners’ Shogun II expands on the original concept to modernize Japanese denim for today’s consumers.
Additionally, the fabrics are dyed using Artistic Milliners’ proprietary technology, Ice Breaker 2. The dyeing process conserves resources by reducing water and energy consumption and requires fewer dyes and chemicals.
The fabrics are distinct in how they showcase the authentic Japanese aesthetic, characterized by the slubby texture. Traditional techniques like indigo dyeing and hickory stripe patterns are reinterpreted with a contemporary twist.
“The tremendous success of our first collaboration with Masaaki Sakaguchi has generated significant excitement for this new collection. We are confident that Shogun II will capture the imagination of consumers seeking sustainable, high-performance denim,” said Baber Sultan, Artistic Milliners director of product development, research and trends.
5 ways mills
innovating sustainable denim. by Angela Velasquez
textile components like zippers and buttons are removed as the waste is grinded into a dry mixture of fibers with different lengths. The dry mixture is chemically decolored, followed by a wet spinning process.
The fiber can be cut to specified lengths, spun into yarns and woven or knitted into fabrics. Dyeing can take place at the fiber, yarn or fabric stages.
With SaXcell blended denim, Muge Tunceren, Bossa’s product development manager, said the mill is “able to create denim fabrics not only to meet high standards of quality and performance but also prioritize environmental conservation.”
Jordan Nodarse, Bossa Denim designer said SaXcell exhibits excellent performance throughout the washing and laundry processes. “We haven’t encountered any performance issues that differ from other lyocell fibers currently on the market. This is a significant advantage since SaXcell is made from recycled input, unlike recycled cotton, which performs differently compared to its virgin counterpart,” he said.
The Endless Blue collection includes a comfort-stretch fabric with 34 percent SaXcell lyocell and a power-stretch fabric with 18 percent SaXcell lyocell. Nodarse added that the mill has received a lot of interest in SaXcell fiber as the market is looking for recycled cellulosic fibers. “We have several new developments in progress for some iconic sustainable brands,” he said.
between Turkish denim mill Isko and Italian fabric developer Paolo Gnutti, demonstrates the exceptional versatility of highperformance recycled materials with its F/W 25-26 collection.
For the first time, the fashion-forward collection uses Isko fabrics made with recycled cotton and polyester from Re&Up, Sanko Group’s circular textile recycling venture. Using Isko’s circular denim enhanced with patented technologies, PG founder Paolo Gnutti has created a capsule that includes fabrics with a lustrous sheen, glass-like coatings, velvet surfaces and corduroy effects.
The recycled materials ensure better resource efficiency, and a reduced environmental impact compared to virgin materials. The traceable fabrics also help fill the market’s demand and supply gap in high-performance recycled materials, which Isko reports is expected to hit 44 million tons (more than 30 percent of the total fiber demand) by 2030.
“Isko has been a unique and amazing partner because they have allowed me to create a collection that is amazing both visually and ethically speaking, thanks to their circular vision and advanced technology,” Gnutti said.
E Isko Luxury by PG demonstrates the exceptional versatility of high-performance recycled materials with its F/W 25-26 collection.
G
Leveraging Circular Systems’ Agraloop technology, Naveena transforms agricultural crop residues into highvalue natural fibers for denim textiles.
NAVEENA DENIM MILLS
In collaboration with Circular Systems, Naveena Denim Mills introduces Biotech fabrics, featuring a groundbreaking natural fiber produced through an innovative waterless process.
Leveraging Circular Systems’ Agraloop technology, this Pakistani mill transforms agricultural crop residues into high-value natural fibers for denim textiles. Biotech fabrics are crafted from CBD hemp crop residue, refined into a textile-grade fiber known as Agraloop BioFibre.
“Crop residues are sometimes burned, left to rot, or used in low-value industrial applications. The Agraloop technology upgrades these residues into natural staple fiber ready to be blended and spun into yarns with other natural fiber like organic and recycled cotton,” said Berke Aydemir, Sr. general manager R&D and technical sales, Naveena Denim Mills.
This innovative approach significantly reduces waste, conserves water, and cuts carbon emissions, meeting the growing demand for environmentally responsible fashion. The Life Cycle Assessment conducted by SCS Global show that the fiber processing uses 99 percent less water, and releases 54 percent less CO2 to the atmosphere compared to conventional hemp processing.
The outcome is a collection of durable, eco-friendly fabrics that not only boast unique natural aesthetics and anti-bacterial properties but also comply with the Global Recycled Standard and Organic Blend Content Standard. “The gap in the market that Biotech fabrics address is the need for sustainable, eco-friendly textile materials that offer high durability and unique natural aesthetics while minimizing environmental impact,” Aydemir said.
FFASHION is having a comeback moment, from ’50s rebellion glory days to the ’70s hippie movement, from ’80s ivy league campus wear to noughties’ rebellious black, and Orta’s mission is to bring back those vibes with value-added materials and production systems that emphasize long-wear denim for conscious consumption
Here, Sebla Onder, marketing and sustainability manager at Orta, explains the company’s strategy to provide customers with value-added, long-lasting good quality fabrics produced with ethical methods that support a better ecosystem for denim. Orta is achieving that with recycled cotton, eco elastane, recycled wool, Tencel™ lyocell, Lenzing™ Ecovero™ viscose, Lenzing™ Modal, virgin cotton, plus fabrics made with organic and/or regenerative cotton.
SOURCING JOURNAL:
What have been your most recent developments to address the continuing demand for circularity?
Sebla Onder: We have a NATURAL COMFORT fabric family in the collection. These fabrics are made with 100 percent natural fibers, have zero PET and zero elastane, yet still offers a comfort level stretch to the wearer. Natural comfort fabrics were born as a solution to fight excessive synthetic fiber usage and the microplastics problem. It also shows that performance can be achieved with natural fibers. As the fabrics are 100 percent cotton, virgin and recycled combined, at the end of their lives the garments made with these fabrics can be mechanically recycled and potentially biodegrade safely.
CREATING A BETTER ECOSYSTEM FOR TREND-READY DENIM
How do you provide trust, transparency and traceability to brands, and even the consumer?
S.O: Unfortunately, we have to rely on certifications for transparency due to today’s dynamics. But additionally, we use different traceability platforms to enable end-to-end traceability of our fabrics to meet our customers’ requests. We also share the fiber origin countries for each fabric on QR codes on product labels in addition to potential environmental impact of the fabric including carbon footprint and water use.
This is of course a self-claim system but it shows that we are open, transparent and willing to do more to achieve full transparency.
What is Orta’s Golden Ratio Standard and what does the approach mean for sustainability?
S.O: ORTA’s Golden Ratio Standard reflects the ultimate blend of recycled, regenerated and natural fibers alternative to cotton that result in no change in performance, look, feel or even the waste generation and resource consumption during fabric production.
We always blame the conventional cotton for the environmental impacts of denim
“OUR
STRATEGY
IS TO
PROVIDE VALUE-ADDED, LONG-LASTING GOOD QUALITY FABRICS PRODUCED WITH ETHICAL METHODS TO OUR CUSTOMERS WHILE SUPPORTING A BETTER ECOSYSTEM FOR DENIM.”
SEBLA ONDER , marketing
and sustainability manager,
Orta
fabrics throughout its lifecycle. But when you replace cotton with alternative cotton, the new fibers might not be as ‘innocent’ or ‘responsible’ as we have hoped. Mechanically recycled cotton, for example, results in high production wastage in spinning. As we blend it with virgin cotton or long, good quality fibers like Tencel™ lyocell as carrier fibers, high waste production during this process causes high consumption in virgin materials too. And if we do not achieve a good quality yarn, that means the dyeing performance or weaving performance is not sufficient either. This in
turn increases second-quality production. Therefore, we need to create a balance and a find the optimum use in our formulations. That is why we created the Golden Ratio Standard.
Denim production is notoriously water intensive. What are some of Orta’s latest water-saving and water-recycling initiatives?
S.O: We apply our INDIGO FLOW dyeing technology to every newly developed fabric in our collections. Developed by our R&D engineers, INDIGO FLOW achieves up to 70 percent water saving during dyeing. As the dyestuff and chemicals better penetrate to the yarn, we also achieve a cleaner outlet water from dyeing as well.■
TOP RATED
its team learned in the process? by Meghan
one mid-sized london fashion house has joined B Corp’s elite. J House of Baukjen recently became the highest-scoring small-tomedium enterprise (SME) B Corp in fashion, just a few years after its initial registration with the certifier. J In 2021, the brand had an overall B Corp score of 108.3. By 2024, it had upped its score by 42 percent, to 153.6. A score of 80 qualifies a company for B Corp status, and according to B Corp, most “ordinary businesses” have a median score of 50.9. J Geoff van Sonsbeeck, the brand’s CEO and co-founder, said the increase came alongside a special attention to fibers, dye processes and governance. The dye processes in particular, he said, results in a major jump. J Between 2021 and 2024, House of Baukjen began working with Portuguese company Ecofoot on a dye solution to reduce the carbon and water footprints of dyeing garments. The technology, called H2Color, replaces some of the chemicals in a typical dyeing process to decrease the number of washes needed during the process.
“The beauty of it is that it can be used in existing infrastructure in dye houses, so they don’t need new equipment. It becomes cheaper, because it saves time, and it saves [about] 50 percent of the carbon footprint. It’s only for cellulosics, but if you look at that on a global scale, if the whole fashion sector would adopt this tomorrow, [it] would drop its carbon footprint by 6.5 percent,” he said.
A major reason House of Baukjen has been able to make the transition toward better environmental outcomes is its vertical supply chain, which van Sonsbeeck said is full of suppliers that know fashion needs to change. The company’s supply chain partners have integrated eco-friendly fibers into the assortments and have worked alongside the brand to bring technical innovations to the fore.
While that can sometimes be more expensive—House of Baukjen has a green premium of 5.6 percent on its environmentally friendly fibers—van Sonsbeeck noted that, in the long run, what’s good for the world also pays off on the balance sheet.
“Our green premium is 5.6 percent, but the savings we make elsewhere by right sizing what we order, not having excess stock, working together on reducing carbon waste and the innovations that we drive through the organization means that everyone in that vertical is benefitting well beyond the 5.6 percent increase in fiber cost,” he explained.
Despite the brand’s success, it faces sustainability-related challenges all the time as it continues to push forward in pursuit of a greener future.
“Every day, two steps forward and one backward. If you give yourself enough time, you make good progress on the journey,” van Sonsbeeck said.
Though House of Baukjen has made forward movement on sustainability in many respects, there are some areas that the company has worked on extensively but hasn’t yet been able to crack in the way van Sonsbeeck and his co-founder and spouse, Baukjen de Swaan Arons, would like to. For instance, the company has worked with a regenerative merino wool farmer in Australia for a year, but hasn’t been able to overcome supply chain issues. Van Sonsbeeck said both
his team and the farmer remain committed to working together, but they haven’t been able to make the project succeed at scale.
There are myriad examples of setbacks that House of Baukjen has faced as it aims to up its game on recycled materials and fibers that are better for the planet. Like many other players in the industry, the company has struggled to integrate end-to-end textile recycling that transforms its own waste into fibers it can use again for other garments.
Van Sonsbeeck said the company started sending returned garments to a textile recycler that could mechanically recycle mixed fibers into new products; but even with the quality of the fibers that resulted, House of Baukjen couldn’t find ways to put them to work in its own collection.
“The [recycler] managed to shred into very long fibers—an inch or more, which is very long for a mechanical process—so they could get really quality fibers out of it. But we have never made the end fabric work for us, and we’re still hoping we’ll crack it, but [right now], it won’t work for our collection. So yes, we’re recycling it, and yes, it’s fully circular, but not back into our own supply chain, and that’s frustrating,” he told Sourcing Journal.
Even as it continues the work of figuring out its own supply chains, material needs and technological upgrades, House of Baukjen has been working to influence other brands— many of them much larger—on forward movement. Van Sonsbeeck said much of that work has been done through the company’s spot in the Fashion Pact, a non-profit organization forging a nature-positive, netzero future through CEO-led collaboration.
“I came from corporates…so I know the power and the strengths and weaknesses they have, but I also know now, running my midsized company, that this can be done. And they can do it, too. They don’t need to get in my league—I don’t need the whole fashion sector to score 153 points at B Corp; that’s not the point. We just need to make enough changes and be very clear on the direction we need to move to—just start doing what’s right, and it will also be right for your bottom line.”
JUST START DOING
House of Baukjen has the highest B Corp score for a small-medium fashion company. What has
Hall
— Geoff van Sonsbeeck, House of Baukjen
F A look from House of Baukjen.
G CEO and co-founder
Geoff van Sonsbeeck.
AUTHENTIC THAI LEATHER ( ATL ) SETS A NEW GLOBAL STANDARD IN LEATHER MAKING
TTHAILAND has a long and prominent tradition of quality leather making. But today, Authentic Thai Leather (ATL)—a new and unprecedented consortium of Thailand’s top leather makers—is introducing its mission to make “the world’s most useful natural material” more accessible to the global supply chain and international market. Here, the founding members and co-chairs of ATL discuss goals to advance the physical, social and economic health of the people and communities touched by the global leather industry, as well as plans to raise and maintain the highest quality standards of each leather article with new finishing systems. It’s a vision that combines the world’s most reliable natural material with scientific and technological innovation and sustainable business practices.
SOURCING JOURNAL: Does the fashion industry understand how sustainable technologies can also benefit businesses?
Authentic Thai Leather: The fashion industry fully understands that its survival in the business world means developing more sustainable methods and operations across every kind of discipline. The Authentic Thai Leather consortium is a resourceefficient consortium to bring higher quality, more affordable leather to the global supply chain while also setting a new standard in sustainable leather making. We have a long history going back to the 1970s of shared water treatment and waste management in the Thai leather community, and now we are embracing cutting-edge scientific technology which makes our leather carbon reductive, PFAS free, biodegradable, and up to 75 percent biobased with no cross-linkers and
“BECAUSE OF OUR PROCESSES AND OUR FINISHING TECHNIQUES, WE CAN DELIVER LEATHER THAT PERFORMS AT THE HIGHEST STANDARDS WITH FLEXIBILITY, DURABILITY AND COLORFASTNESS.”
huge reduction in plastic content. We also offer a business positive supply chain solution; because of our collective access to resources and technical abilities, we are able to offer cost and time efficiencies anywhere in the world.
What is Activated Silk™ L1 and its applications?
ATL: Activated Silk™ L1 is the name of the finishing chemistry system that we are fortunate to use thanks to our partnership with an innovative sustainable chemical company in the U.S. called Evolved By Nature. It is a 75 percent biobased finishing system that enables our leather to be almost PU free, without any PFAS. It helps us achieve the carbon reduction numbers brands are looking for.
How does leather finished with ATL’s technologies compare to traditional leather?
ATL: We are sharing innovations and technologies that help us achieve unprecedented sustainability measures in leather, and the quality of the leather we make is also on par with some of the world’s most esteemed leather making areas. Because of our processes and our finishing techniques, we can deliver leather that performs at the highest standards with flexibility, durability and colorfastness. We can achieve any look and feel at a consistency and quality that the world’s most
esteemed brands are asking for. In a blind test of look and feel, our articles match up with anyone’s. We can’t discuss our partners, but we produce articles for every sector of the leather business around the world, from footwear to furniture and luxury to commodity.
Overall, how can ATL contribute to various United Nations Sustainable Development Goals?
ATL: Evolved By Nature is a verified sustainable company that contributes to 8 of the 17 UNSDG’s. Our partnership as the members of the ATL is founded on maintaining and exceeding those same standards—through work practices, work space, equanimity, energy consumption and carbon neutrality. We source our materials through upcycled cruelty-free methods that contribute to a circular economy.
Our traditional dedication to craft has not changed but as we evolve our partnerships and incorporate innovation and technology, the gateway has opened to provide a high volume, high quality, costeffective supply of the world’s most useful natural materials to the global market. ■
URBN PLANNING
increased
urban outfitters has been at the forefront of numerous trends in its 50-plus-year history— is sustainability next?JURBN— the portfolio of global consumer brands including Urban Outfitters, Anthropologie, Anthropologie Weddings, Free People, Free People Movement, Terrain and Nuuly—considers itself (and, by extension, its 20,000-plus employees) a “group of out-of-the-box thinkers”that have been exploring the concept of “reuse” since its inception. JSourcing Journal spoke to leaders at URBN and its Nuuly brand about how the powerhouse—which made $5.15 billion in revenue last year—enacts its ethos of “leading with creativity” through the lens of sustainability.
KIM GALLAGHER
executive director, marketing and customer success, Nuuly
Sourcing Journal: You’re an URBN girlie through and through, from an intern at Anthropologie to an OG Nuuly team member. What drew you to the rental service?
Kim Gallagher: Rental seemed like the perfect fit for the URBN customer who has a love for fashion as a form of self-expression but is also conscious of their impact on the environment. We knew that if we could make the business model work financially, then we had a huge upside. I feel so lucky to work at Nuuly; there is no shortage of new and interesting problems to solve, which attracts the most curious, passionate team.
SJ: Users of Nuuly know how forgiving it is when you pop a button or spill some shiraz on a rented piece. For a customer, this is a huge green flag— but how does that work out, logistically speaking, for the brand?
KG: From the beginning, we knew we never wanted to penalize a customer for damaging a product. The reality is that no customer is intentionally damaging garments— there’s no incentive to do so—so charging for insurance or a damage
fee would be a turnoff for existing customers and those interested in trying rental for the first time. Damages do happen, so we bake some of it into our unit economic costs, as it is simply a cost of doing business. But then we regularly try to bring that cost down by always trying to improve our laundry, spotting—for example, stain removal—and repairs processes. The better we get at these functions, the better for both our bottom line and for the environment.
SJ: Tell me more about what the repairs and cleaning processes look like, and how those processes extend the garment’s life.
KG: When customers return garments, they first arrive at our returns department and then move to our laundry team: in-house experts at our state-ofthe-art professional cleaning and repairs facilities who specialize in the chemistry of cleaning and sanitizing clothing while preserving the integrity of the fabric for the next renter. We utilize both wet- and dry-cleaning methods, dependent on the garment. Our dry-cleaning solvent is 100 percent PERC-free to reflect our commitment to safer, more sustainable practices. For wet cleaning, we use a detergent that offers superior cleaning power while being gentle on the fabrics and the environment. After
cleaning, all garments pass through a 275-degree steam tunnel. Each Nuuly bag is disinfected between rentals as well.
SJ: And repairs?
KG: Repairing can include everything from securing buttons, fixing snags, seams and hems, or shaving sweaters. We are lucky to have a team of incredible experts handling this work. Over the past year—so last September through this August— Nuuly removed 1.2 million stains and repaired 535,000 garments for a total of 1.7 million repairs. Some damaged garments are upcycled through our Re_Nuuly program. And sometimes garments are damaged beyond repair, but that doesn’t mean no one will want them. We sell damaged items in URBN’s newest secondhand store, Reclectic.
SJ: Let’s talk more about the Re_Nuuly program.
KG: The program, introduced in 2021, has allowed Nuuly to decrease clothing waste and increase product longevity by reimagining previously retired garments in partnership with emerging brands, artists and local manufacturers. Thus far, Re_Nuuly has extended the life of over 5,800 previously retired pieces through collaborations with Zero Waste Daniel, Tricia Fix, Carleen, Hum + Bee, The Series and Riley Vintage. In our most recent partnership with Zero Waste Daniel—the beloved Brooklyn-based zerowaste lifestyle pioneer—we tasked designer Daniel Silverstein and his team to upcycle 1,300 denim garments retired from Nuuly’s rental inventory. Zero Waste Daniel
E URBN has an ethos of “leading with creativity.”
Urban Outfitters is putting an
focus on sustainability and ethical practices as it continues to expand and evolve.
PLANNING
by Alexandra Harrell
redesigned and repurposed the out-of-circulation styles into a capsule collection of 10 new styles we reintroduced into the rental assortment, also utilizing upcycled materials from URBN partner FabScrap.
SJ: How has Nuuly become a valuable partner to the URBN production teams in relation to the data collected on the impact of wearing and laundering different types of garments? What kind of data is collected? For instance, how often is a piece worn (on average) before requiring repair?
KG: Some garments are repaired after their first rental and some are still going strong after 40-plus rentals, so an average doesn’t really tell the story. We look at damages by brand, fabrication, etc., and then use that data to refine further the types of garments we buy. We also share that data with our internal production team at URBN and brand partners.
WE
KNOW OUR CUSTOMERS VIEW OUR PRODUCTS AS AN EXTENSION OF THEMSELVES, INCLUDING HOW THEY VIEW THEIR IMPACT ON THE
WORLD.”
Condon, URBN
SJ: I understand the Nuuly team plans to roll out a process to collect detailed information about the social and environmental initiatives supported by the brands and labels Nuuly buys from, including official sustainable materials and process certificates. Why was that important?
G The Re_Nuuly program has allowed Nuuly to decrease clothing waste and increase product longevity.
KG: At Nuuly, one of our top priorities is to promote a circular fashion ecosystem; understanding the social and environmental practices of the brands we work with is crucial to this goal. Collecting detailed information and official certificates on sustainability ensures that our partners align with our commitment to climateconscious and responsible practices. This not only helps our customers make informed choices but also advances sustainability across the industry.
MEAGHAN CONDON
director of communications and impact, URBN
Sourcing Journal: What role does consumer education play in URBN’s sustainability strategy? How does the company encourage its customers to make more sustainable choices?
Meaghan Condon: At URBN, we see fashion as a form of selfexpression. We know our customers view our products as an extension of themselves, including how they view their impact on the world. That’s why we are intentional about offering choices that align with our customers’ values. We are proud to have made a big investment in circularity through our newest brand, Nuuly. No one was expecting a retailer to make a big bet on rental, but we were listening to our customers and knew
they wanted a way to shop that was better for their wallets and the planet. We are incredibly proud of Nuuly’s success—now with over 250,000 active subscribers. And we’re especially proud of the way Nuuly has changed our customers’ relationships with clothes. They report being more intentional with their purchases, focusing on quality over quantity. Nuuly’s first-ever brand campaign is in market right now, getting the message out to even more customers that renting is an option and Nuuly is the best option in rental.
SJ: Can you share details on the energy efficiency measures adopted in URBN’s retail stores, distribution centers and offices? How do these initiatives contribute to the company’s overall sustainability goals?
MC: We’re proud of our overall approach to infrastructure— something we call “adaptive reuse”—across all our retail locations, offices, and distribution and fulfillment centers. Our goal is always to be as creative as possible when it comes to our buildings so that we are using—and reusing— resources in a way that is efficient and responsible. This strategy led us integrate energy-efficiency measures from the ground up in our Gap, Pennsylvania, fulfillment center, which features one of the largest single solar rooftop installations in the states. The installation saves over 22 million kWh per year, which translates directly into our ambition to “Increase Cleaner Energy.” Of course, the crown jewel of our commitment to adaptive reuse is on display at our U.S. home office at the Philadelphia Navy Yard. We took old U.S. Navy buildings on the Delaware River waterfront and transformed them into office spaces, meeting rooms, photo studios, a coffee shop, a cafe, a gym and even a dog park. The majority of the demolition debris from our renovation was kept on site and reused; building concrete was broken up to become steppingstones in our cherry tree garden and chunks of concrete, asphalt and brick became mulch for our hedgerows. The result was a beautiful and more consciously created campus.
Meaghan
TRACEABILITY’S ROLE IN PROVING PRODUCT CLAIMS AND PROTECTING WORKERS
TTHE INDUSTRY’S opaque supply chains are coming into the light, as regulations and other pressures make transparency a necessity.
“Brands cannot operate in the dark anymore,” noted Greg Adams, vice president of America sales and global channels commercial at Oritain, a global leader in origin verification, pointing to laws such as the Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act (UFLPA) and EU Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive. Traceability helps companies communicate more effectively about products, identify and remediate any forced labor lurking in their value chain and meet sustainability disclosure demands. Here, Adams shares how companies can get ahead of issues by bringing visibility and testing earlier in the production process.
SOURCING JOURNAL: Fashion brands have typically just interacted with Tier 1. Why is this no longer sufficient?
Greg Adams: Sticking to only Tier 1 is like solving a big puzzle with one piece. You need all the pieces to see the full picture and make strides in creating a sustainable supply chain. When brands only interact with Tier 1, they miss crucial insights into the sourcing of raw materials and the practices of upstream suppliers, which often contribute significantly to a product’s overall sustainability profile. Relying solely on direct suppliers can leave them vulnerable to risks, as issues can cascade down the supply chain. Brands should engage with suppliers at earlier stages of the supply chain, such as fabric mills, ginners and raw material producers, to proactively identify and mitigate any issues before the final product is shipped.
“SUPPLY CHAIN TRANSPARENCY STARTS WITH ORIGIN.”
GREG ADAMS
vice president of America sales and global channels commercial, Oritain
How can visibility help weed out social issues, such as forced labor or non-compliance?
G.A.: When brands have a clear view on where materials originate and how they are processed, they can spot red flags—such as suspicious sourcing from high-risk regions known for forced labor or modern slavery—and take proactive steps to rectify issues before they snowball into bigger problems that could hurt their reputation and the lives of vulnerable workers.
Having visibility allows for more efficient, effective monitoring and remediation efforts. When companies can pinpoint exactly where issues are occurring, they can intervene directly with the responsible suppliers and implement corrective actions. This helps create a more ethical, transparent supply
chain, letting brands hold suppliers accountable with reliable, objective data.
How does authentication help companies prove product claims?
G.A.: Consumers are increasingly demanding verified credentials rather than just general sustainability claims. The EU Parliament has signed antigreenwashing legislation banning businesses from making misleading or hard-to-understand green claims, meaning companies can no longer rely on vague documentation or self-declarations to substantiate their claims; they must provide verifiable evidence. Oritain acquires samples and analyzes the chemical properties associated with a specific origin. We then use statistical models to turn this data into an “Origin Fingerprint” that represents the product and its location, allowing us to authenticate the origin of natural
products like cotton back to specific regions, countries or even farms. With that proof in hand, brands can confidently communicate their sustainability efforts and differentiate themselves.
How can traceability solutions like Oritain’s help companies gather more precise data for sustainability reporting?
G.A.: Supply chain transparency starts with origin; you need to know a product’s source before tracking and tracing each individual node or touchpoint throughout the supply chain. As global regulations increasingly require greater transparency and due diligence, in addition to companies and investors making their own ESG commitments, Oritain is becoming an essential pillar to complement paperwork, like certificates and supply contract assurances, by validating product claims match what’s being delivered. Our technology enables companies to gather more granular data on upstream emissions. With transparent, scientifically backed data, they can better assess their sustainability goals and ensure that their claims are based on solid evidence rather than subjective evaluations. ■
Strengthen Your Sustainability Claims with Oritain's Cotton Origin Verification.
Learn more
Discover how Oritain can support your brand's commitment to sustainability.
THE KEY TO ‘UNLOCKING’ TEXTILE WASTE
when fashion for good completed its Sorting for Circularity project in Europe in 2022, one finding stood out. While increasing the use of recycled textiles is a carbon-slashing move that fashion companies with ambitious climate ambitions are clamoring to make, figuring out where clothing waste comes from—and, equally important, where it’s headed—isn’t always easy.
Tracing textile waste, particularly when it comes from post-consumer sources, is a heavily manual, not to mention fragmented, process, which creates blind spots where visibility is needed to determine provenance, said Katrin Ley, managing director at the Amsterdam-based innovation platform. Data, too, is often unclassified and insufficiently harmonized to be useful for exchange, making identifying potential business opportunities or complying with incoming legislation such as the European Union’s waste framework directive or ecodesign for sustainable products regulation a harder lift.
Traceability, in short, is the “unlock” the industry needs but has currently been lacking to allow brands and retailers to not only report more accurately on the recycled content in their products but also meet the strict feedstock specifications that many textile-to-textile recyclers require—say, 100 percent polyester with no elastane—to scale their still mostly fledgling operations, Ley said.
“While there exists a large amount of textile waste, only a small fraction of it can be used as feedstock for existing chemical recycling solutions,” she added.
But the solution, Fashion for Good decided, wasn’t to add new processes. Two already loom large in the form of Textile Exchange’s Global Recycled Standard (GRS) and Recycled Claim Standard (RCS). The sustainability trade group also had similar ambitions, based on burgeoning policy interest, to trace textile waste “back to the source,” as Evonne Tan, Textile Exchange’s senior director of data and technology, put it. Combining their efforts, Tan said, simply seemed like a “natural fit.”
For the next two years, Fashion for Good and Textile Exchange will be launching several pilots in various still-to-bedetermined geographies across Asia, Europe and the United States. The goal, they said, is to establish a standardized system for classifying and collecting textile waste data, including the creation of a glossary that nails down the definitions of waste-related terms that have been open to interpretation, complicating the transnational push for extended producer responsibility.
The organizations will also develop a so-called Minimum Viable Product (MVP) measure for the standards’ Reclaimed Material Declaration Forms, or RMDF, running it through the paces of real-world stress testing with the help of Reverse Resources, a platform that digitizes and connections textile waste with recyclers, as well as an alumnus of Fashion for Good’s 2018 Innovation Programme.
The RMDF, a template for textile sorters and other sellers of recycled materials to disclose product details, currently lacks data standardization and interoperability because it relies heavily on free text, requiring timeintensive manual verification, Ley said. And while its information is consolidated and shared with certification bodies to facilitate the issuance of transaction certificates, its visibility is largely limited to the sellers, creating a traceability dead end.
“Ultimately, the goal of this work is to develop an industry framework that can be scaled for potential implementation into the GRS and RCS chain of custody requirements, as well as other non-certified recycled supply chains,” Ley said. “To facilitate this, the MVP that will be developed and validated during the pilots will be released for public use next year.”
WHILE THERE EXISTS A LARGE AMOUNT OF TEXTILE WASTE, ONLY A SMALL FRACTION OF IT CAN BE USED AS FEEDSTOCK FOR EXISTING CHEMICAL RECYCLING SOLUTIONS.”
E
Tan said that any learnings will also be used to inform future iterations of Textile Exchange’s standards. Right now, it’s easy enough to trace textile waste “one step back,” she said. It’s going beyond that—while navigating the more opaque nodes of the supply chain, such as traders that blend clothes from multiple origins—that’s the challenge. The involvement of different stakeholders, including brands and retailers like Adidas, Target and Levi Strauss & Co., which have signed on to play supporting roles, will be crucial.
“Being able to understand how we can trace back to the source, particularly for post-consumer, is quite critical for us,” Tan said. “But it will take some time for all that to happen.”
Katrin Ley, Fashion For Good
The textile waste chain of custody is riddled with blind spots that hamper visibility and compliance. A two-year project hopes to change that. by Jasmin Malik Chua
SOURCING JOURNAL
▲ SCAN
GGLOBAL Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) has been a pioneer in sustainability for over 22 years, providing the textile industry with essential guidelines and tools for managing their value chains. This leading voluntary sustainability standard ensures textiles are made from certified organic fibers and processed under strict criteria. Managed by non-profit organization Global Standard, GOTS enforces stringent ecological and human rights, including social criteria, all independently certified by third parties across the entire textile value chain. Here, Claudia Kersten, managing director, Global Standard (non-profit), discusses GOTS’ continued evolution.
SOURCING JOURNAL:
How did the standard expand with GOTS 7.0?
Claudia Kersten: GOTS 7.0, launched in March 2023, added an enhanced Human Rights and Social Criteria section and incorporated recycled organic fibers, promoting circular practices within the textile industry. A key strength of GOTS 7.0 is its responsiveness to emerging value chain laws, and its six-step due diligence process lets certified organizations proactively identify, evaluate and address negative impacts within their value chains. The GOTS Due Diligence Handbook offers guidance to help certified entities comply with various domestic due diligence laws and upcoming EU legislation. GOTS certification is annual, with new standard versions allowing a one-year transition period for recertification under the latest version.
GOTS HIGHLIGHTS THE IMPORTANCE OF INDUSTRY STANDARDS
How does GOTS help businesses navigate changing legislation and demands?
C.K.: GOTS is at the forefront of sustainability legislation worldwide. We provide companies with the rules and tools to meet and exceed legal requirements. Covering the entire value chain, GOTS demands that companies adhere to strict human rights and environmental criteria, including fair labor practices, safe working conditions, and mitigating environmental risks like pollution and resource depletion. During revisions, we prioritize emerging legislation to ensure our standards surpass regulatory requirements. Notably, GOTS is currently aligning with the OECD’s comprehensive international framework for responsible supply chains in the garment and footwear sector. GOTS will continue setting the standard for sustainable practices in the textile industry.
Why does the industry need global sustainability standards more than ever?
C.K.: The global textile industry has long needed voluntary sustainability standards (VSS) to validate sustainable efforts, manage risk and reputation, and differentiate in the market. Today, as countries and states implement diverse and sometimes conflicting environmental, social or value chain legislation, companies must navigate this complexity while maintaining compliance. Additionally, there is
“GOTS WILL CONTINUE SETTING THE STANDARD FOR SUSTAINABLE PRACTICES IN THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY.”
CLAUDIA KERSTEN , managing director, Global Standard
growing pressure from consumers and investors for businesses to adopt responsible practices that prioritize the environment, workers, and consumers across the entire supply chain.
GOTS is a critical VSS, offering a comprehensive framework that exceeds even the strictest legislation. As an internationally recognized standard, GOTS ensures that organic textile products meet the highest human rights and ecological criteria. Independent third-party certification distinguishes genuine sustainable practices from greenwashing.
GOTS allows textile processors and manufacturers to export their products with a single, universally accepted certification valid in all major markets. This harmonization simplifies compliance, reduces costs and facilitates international trade, promoting market access.
What types of fibers can receive GOTS certification? Are there any misconceptions in the market?
C.K.: There is a common misconception that GOTS certifies organic raw materials like cotton,
but GOTS certifies products made from “organic” or “organic in-conversion” fibers certified under the IFOAM Family of Standards. These fibers include organic cotton, wool, silk and other certified organic materials. The standard covers products such as yarns, clothing, home textiles, mattresses, personal hygiene products and food contact textiles.
How does GOTS provide 360-degree awareness on compliance issues?
C.K.: GOTS provides certified entities with comprehensive manuals like the Due Diligence Handbook, as well as training sessions and seminars. Consumers are educated through transparent labeling, informative articles and awareness campaigns. Additionally, GOTS engages with the industry through roundtables, conferences, trade shows and speaking engagements. Since the inception of GOTS, there has been exponential growth in interest and understanding of sustainability and the standard. ■
YOUR KEY TO ACHIEVING COMPLIANCE+
GOTS certification is a powerful tool that helps your company comply with legal requirements and empowers you to exceed those, showcasing your commitment to people and the planet.
Robust, verifiable criteria: GOTS stipulates requirements throughout the value chain for ecological, human rights including social criteria and business conduct in textile and apparel manufacturing.
Due Diligence Commitment: Access guidance on implementing the criteria through due diligence processes.
Legislation Ready: Benefit from regularly updated criteria and tools which provide compliance support for laws.
Market access: GOTS provides a consistent and global framework and help to overcome barriers to international trade.
Certified Sustainability: Ensure your sustainability claims are backed by a third-party.
Traceability from Farm to Final Product: Maintain transparency, traceability and impact monitoring throughout your value chain.
Join the 14,000 GOTS-certified companies leading sustainability in textiles. Get GOTS Certified.
SCAN ME
UPCYCLED COUTURE TAKES
Zero Waste Daniel challenged the norms of high fashion, proving that sustainable design deserves a seat at the table.
leave your troubles outside in here, sustainable fashion is divine decadence. J “Sustainable Fashion is a Cabaret” debuted Zero Waste Daniel’s latest collection during New York Fashion Week (NYFW) at the Manhattan West development’s Mastercard Midnight Theatre. J The collection aimed to position upcycled fashion as an equal player, challenging industry norms by proving that sustainable design can hold its own alongside the top designer houses.
“Tonight, people will see that Zero Waste Daniel is much more than patchwork sweatshirts,” Daniel Silverstein, the designer and founder behind ZWD, told Sourcing Journal ahead of the show. “It’s that there is opportunity out there when you elevate the right creatives to create moving, inspiring work that doesn’t rely on the misfortune of others to get ahead.”
Guests were immersed in the new collection, with everyone—from ushers to performers—donning Zero Waste Daniel’s signature upcycled, handmade designs.
“Tonight, I ask you to release your preconceived notions of sustainability within the fashion industry and immerse yourself in a world that values beauty, design, quality and ethics equally,” Silverstein said to the intimateyet-packed house. “I invite you to witness the glamorous potential of this artistry, regardless of the origin of its source materials.”
In place of a traditional runway, the collection—crafted entirely from pre-consumer
fabric waste and upcycled materials—was brought to life through performances by NYC local legends. Each performer wore elaborate designs featuring a recurring bird motif, highlighting their “distinct personalities and rich personal histories.”
Drag queen and interdisciplinary artist Julie J served as the evening’s Master of Ceremonies, with Broadway star Alexandra Socha the first to take the stage.
A longtime muse of Silverstein, Socha (currently starring as Gershwin Theatre’s Glinda for “Wicked”) opened the show with a rendition of “Gorgeous” from The Apple Tree in a “radiant and ravishing” red sequined gown. Next up was Broadway puppeteer and performer, Joshua Holden, and his “soulmate,” Mr. Nicholas—a puppet made from an old sock and a used yogurt container—who called Silverstein a “peppy little hoarder with way too much time on his hands.”
The crème de la crème of the evening was the custom upcycled look created for
TAKES CENTER STAGE
by Alexandra Harrell
Broadway legend Daphne Rubin-Vega— renowned for originating the role of Mimi Marquez in “Rent” as well as her work in “The Rocky Horror Picture Show” and, most recently, “Only Murders in the Building.” Rubin-Vega’s feathered fit, titled “Love Birds,” was crafted from her own memorabilia.
These “cherished keepsakes” that played pivotal roles in her career were reimagined by Zero Waste Daniel, featuring delicate bird appliquès inspired by Rubin-Vega’s mother’s silk robe—symbolizing a unique blend of personal history and sustainability.
“One of the main and most exciting moments of this particular collection is that there is a look that she’s wearing that is made with upcycled pieces of her own Broadway memorabilia,” Silverstein said. “I could not even believe that I was entrusted with reimagining these pieces. We really tried to focus on creating something special and beautiful and exciting that utilizes what we already have; that’s the whole message of what we do.”
The defining moment of the evening with cabaret legend’s Mx Justin Vivian Bond’s finale look, crafted from Socha’s pearl-encrusted wedding veil—a piece Silverstein actually designed for her 2022 wedding to fellow Broadway star Etai Benson. Bond symbolized the dove’s notions of peace, love and hope in a vision of white and billowing tulle.
“It’s almost a trope that a fashion show often ends with the bride; throughout cinema and fashion history, that’s a classic way to end the show,” Silverstein said. After her wedding, Socha gave Silverstein the veil back—a 1920s motif and 10-foot train work of art that “somebody needed to have,” Socha said—and Silverstein has had it in his studio since. “As we put together this collection, we thought, how sweet would it be to reimagine that bridal look and turn it into a new finale.”
Each performer was a source of inspiration for the collection, as the bespoke creations embody the essence of the Nuuly partner’s philosophy: that fashion can be a medium for
THE FASHION INDUSTRY IS BUILT ON MARKET FAILURE, ON OPPRESSION, ON THE EXCLUSIVITY OF TASTE, BUT I BELIEVE THAT IT’S POSSIBLE TO LIVE THE ASPIRATIONAL LIFE WITHOUT PUTTING DOWN OTHERS.” Daniel Silverstein
storytelling, memory and innovation—all while reducing waste and promoting circularity.
Silverstein’s deep connection with these collected and curated materials—what he calls a “mosaic of memories”—was apparent in the glamorous and gregarious garments.
“The whole thing [is] that the brand is incredible radical and subversive, but it’s really not,” Silverstein said. “The fashion industry is built on market failure, on oppression, on the exclusivity of taste, but I believe that it’s possible to live the aspirational life without putting down others.”
E Looks from Zero Waste
Daniel’s “Sustainable Fashion is a Cabaret.”
COOL BEANS: HOW SOYBASED MATERIALS SUPPORT SUSTAINABLE FASHION
CCONSUMERS have become well accustomed to consuming soy in food products like edamame and tofu, but the soybean is increasingly making its way into fashion. Plant-based cashmere, anyone?
Soy has numerous use cases in fashion production and design. For instance, soybean oil can be used as an alternative to petroleum inputs for textile fiber production and faux leather manufacturing. Soy milk can also be used as binding agent for fabric dyeing, helping color adhere to textiles.
Here, Michigan-based soybean farmer Carla Schultz and David Lee, creative director of fiber manufacturer and knitwear designer KD New York, detail soy’s sustainability profile and why it is primed for wider fashion adoption.
SOURCING JOURNAL: Why have you chosen to grow soy? What makes it a sustainable crop?
Carla Schultz: Soybeans are a great crop to plant in our farm rotation. Sustainability-wise, they are an easy crop to decide to grow, as modern soybean genetics lend themselves very well to many climates and conditions. They are very carbon-friendly as they add nutrients into the soil and actually enhance the soil by feeding the microorganisms underneath the soil. They also fix nitrogen into the soil, which at some point will feed other crops. This allows us to use less synthetic fertilizer as well, because soybeans are able to capture that nitrogen from the air to utilize.
Geneticists are always improving on the genetics of soybeans to help us grow better beans with better genetic traits for our climate and environment.
How are you and other domestic soybean farmers further reducing the carbon impact of growing soy? What has led to the U.S. having a lower carbon footprint related to soybean cultivation than other countries?
C.S.: Mainly, that carbon footprint is lowered because of the precision agriculture that we have here in the States, including our GPS system—the global positioning satellite that we use as we go over the field. If we know there’s a section of the field that needs to be more concentrated with plant chemistry, we don’t have to go over the whole field, but we can just pinpoint one section of the field. We can actually adjust the sprayers on our equipment so that it only gives off what it needs. It reminds me of antibiotics. Antibiotics serve a fantastic purpose, but at times they can be overused. In the same way plant chemistry can be overused, so it’s pinpointing those areas in the field as well, so we’re not using more than we need to.
What led KD New York to start working with soy for your knitwear?
David Lee: I’ve been a vegetarian most of my life, and KD has really pushed toward sustainable fibers and yarns throughout the history of our existence, so moving away from animal-based products was a natural development for our business.
We were looking for a plantbased alternative to animal fiber cashmere. And in my research, soy kept coming up as a replacement. I started including soy in the mix, and it turned out to be right for all the right reasons. It checked all the boxes that we were looking to check: plant based, no animal fibers, sustainability, environmental impact. And
“[SOY] IS THE FIBER OF THE FUTURE.”
because of the availability of domestic soy, we think we can onshore all the production processes for the yarn.
What excites you most about soy’s potential in fashion?
D.L.: I really think that it is the fiber of the future. It’s actually fantastic, because the soy protein fiber we use is made from soy protein isolate, which is made from the waste of soy food production—oil and tofu and soy milk. It’s made from that waste, so it’s a totally circular product that’s not requiring new resources. I’m very eager to develop other uses for soy fibers with other blends, new products and new markets. I just keep looking at all the ways it can be used. ■
From left: Carla Schultz, Michiganbased soybean farmer and David Lee, creative director, KD New York.
DAVID LEE creative director, KD New York
What’s the power of one unassuming soybean?
When it’s sustainably grown by U.S. Soy, that single bean’s potential is infinite. It can provide renewable, plant-based alternatives for thousands of products and packaging, from biofuel to plastics, textiles to tires and turf to cleaning supplies. How can U.S. Soy help you reach your sustainability goals?
Find out how we’re powering partnership and growing opportunities.
SAGE ADVICE
Women sustainability experts share what it takes to have a
women are an undeniable force in advancing sustainability across the apparel supply chain. In leadership roles, they skillfully navigate compliance and certification requirements. In R&D roles, they develop sustainable solutions to common problems and adopt next-gen materials. In educational roles, they guide corporations toward more sustainable practices. J Here, six women working in sustainability share the challenges and rewards of having careers in this field. While they agree that there’s no single path to success, they all emphasize the importance of staying curious, continuously learning and being open to change.
SANDYA LANG
NUDIE JEANS chief sustainability
officer
Why did you pursue a career in sustainability?
Sandya Lang: My journey began with a passion for development studies and a keen interest in how multinational companies operate in the Global South. This academic curiosity transformed into a professional calling during a field study with garment workers in India. The invaluable insights gained there led me to hands-on roles in T-shirt production in Sri Lanka and shoe manufacturing in Vietnam. Both my work and personal growth are greatly enriched by my direct involvement in production processes and my interest in the perspectives on the ground.
What is the most challenging part of your job?
SL: Today, I have a broader role than just sustainability, so the challenge is to work with both the strategic and operational parts at the same time.
What qualities are useful to have for a career in sustainability?
SL: Curiosity is key to engaging with a wide range of sustainability topics, even if you specialize in a specific area like social issues or climate change. Everything is interconnected, and recognizing these connections is crucial. To effectively promote sustainability
successful career. by Angela Velasquez
within your organization, it’s essential to combine a pragmatic approach with solid business sense.
What is the most rewarding part of your job?
SL: The most rewarding part is seeing sustainability integrated into the company strategy in a theoretical but even more so practical way. Sustainability runs through the core processes, how we make the products, the materials we choose, and seeing the way the whole organization works with sustainability.
What advice would you give to a young person considering a career in sustainability?
SL: Have a broad mindset and look for ways to get practical experience. I know there is a lot of focus now on reporting and new legislation, all that is very important but to understand the figures behind the report you need to understand the products, supply chain, suppliers and the environmental and social challenges across the supply chain.
How do you apply sustainability to your everyday life?
SL: My interest in sustainability has, of course, formed the way I live to some extent. I live in the countryside, where the focus is on nature and family and less on material things. I commute to the office weeklyby public transport, and I do my share of secondhand shopping and try to be very conscious of the (few) new things I buy. I believe that we can all do better, but to do something is better than to do nothing.
JANE PALMER
NATURE COATINGS CEO and founder
Why did you pursue a career in sustainability?
Jane Palmer: I’ve been in the dyes and pigment industry for textiles for over 20 years now. I’ve seen firsthand the environmental destruction from coloring our clothes. I also know people personally who suffer from exposure to chemicals, such as benzene, a known carcinogen, from the dye and pigment industry. After seeing that, it’s hard to not ask “why are we doing this?” and “why can't it be done in any other way?” I feel so strongly that we can get what we want in terms of performance and cost without destroying our health and the environment. That’s why I decided to develop a healthier and safer pigment that is also high performing and cost competitive.
What is the most challenging part of your job?
JP: When I started the company back in 2018, I would get so disappointed if a project didn’t work out with a brand or partner. It would feel like I was trying to do the impossible. While I can still feel disappointed if something doesn’t work out, I believe in what I am doing and my tenacity will keep it going. Sustainability can be a tough sell, and that is the most challenging aspect of my job today. But I also know significant progress
and optimism in the industry has evolved since I started. I can see the changes, I know Nature Coatings is part of the solution, and that keeps me going.
What qualities are useful to have for a career in sustainability?
JP: Resiliency, hope and optimism with a realistic outlook on what can be done and how fast it can be done. Sustainability is an iceberg. It’s going to take a long time to create industry wide change, but the foundation is being built. We just need to keep pushing to fully realize the potential of what can be done.
What is the most rewarding part of your job?
JP: I love when I see consumer products come to market with our pigment, whether it’s in denim, apparel, footwear, cosmetics, children’s paints, printing inks, etc. I’m so thrilled by the creativity of product developers. It’s also a moment of pride and gratitude for our team, for how hard we work and for how far we have come over the past few years.
What advice would you give to a young person considering a career in sustainability?
JP: Please do it! We need more and more people who are passionate about sustainability to keep building the momentum. I would also say there are different types of careers in sustainability out there, so choose based on your skills and likes. Some sustainability jobs are about gathering data and crunching numbers. Other jobs are about discovering and sourcing new materials, or developing new
materials in my case. Others are about working with existing systems to create efficiencies that use less water or power, so more like an engineer. There are a lot of options out there!
I would also say be ready for a long road. Change is hard, not many people like to do it. It must be something you really believe in to make it worth it. And when you do have success, celebrate it.
How do you apply sustainability to your everyday life?
JP: I do all the small things (hopefully) most people are doing, such as recycling and reducing water and energy use in my home. I make my own cleaning products and several of my hair care products. I also love buying second-hand and supporting smaller sustainably focused businesses and designers. In general, I only purchase what I really need across the board and try hard not to waste.
SUSTAINABILITY
IS AN ICEBERG. IT’S GOING TO TAKE A LONG TIME TO CREATE INDUSTRY WIDE CHANGE, BUT THE FOUNDATION IS BEING BUILT.” Jane Palmer, Nature Coatings
E Nature Coatings’ BioBlack TX was a part of AGI Denim’s pioneering Tomorrowlab collection.
H Nudie Jeans are made with 100 percent organic cotton.
Why did you pursue a career in sustainability?
Hanna Reichel: I’m a big believer in “leave a place better than you found it,” and that’s been a throughline in my career— not that it’s been a straight line. I studied urban planning because I was interested in building thriving communities and ended up researching policy solutions to food insecurity before landing in fashion.
What is the most challenging part of your job?
HR: Staying centered while operating in such a dynamic, target-rich environment is hard work, especially when constantly responding to new regulatory realities, emergent opportunities and, of course, a changing climate.
HANNA REICHEL
CENTRIC BRANDS senior manager, sustainability
YOU DON’T HAVE TO HAVE ‘SUSTAINABILITY’ IN YOUR TITLE TO BE A CHAMPION FOR DOING THINGS BETTER.” Hanna Reichel, Centric Brands
What qualities are useful to have for a career in sustainability?
HR: An entrepreneurial mindset. This is about always finding new ways of doing business better.
What is the most rewarding part of your job?
HR: I’m constantly learning. In my role, I have a unique mandate to break down silos, bringing together stakeholders across our organization and supply chain to future-proof our operations. I’m always humbled by how much we can accomplish together.
What advice would you give to a young person considering a career in sustainability?
HR: You don’t have to have “sustainability” in your title to be a champion for doing things better. I actually think the ability to integrate and advocate for sustainability in roles like design, marketing, tech or finance will be one of the most sought-after skillsets of tomorrow’s job market.
How do you applysustainability to your everyday life?
HR: I grew up in a small, rural community where people depended on each other and the land. Sustainability was more or less a way of life, and it taught me a lot about the meaning of hard work. I now call New York City home, and the urban planner in me has delighted in discovering how the relative convenience of highdensity city living offers us unique opportunities for resiliency and community.
DR. CINDY J. LIN
HEY SOCIAL GOOD CEO and co-founder
Why did you pursue a career in sustainability?
Dr. Cindy J. Lin: To elevate the health and stories of people and the planet. I started my career in sustainability as a young scientist doing research in the cloud forests of Monteverde, Costa Rica. When I saw the amazing forest resources that our surrounding environment provides, I thought about what each of us can do to improve the health of people, plants, and animals. I was determined to be part of the solution.
That led me on a journey to be a U.S. EPA scientist and policymaker working to ensure that we have the safest water, air and soil in the U.S. and abroad in many other parts of the world. When I worked in Hawai’i and China, and I saw how clean water can motivate people to care about themselves and their environment, I knew that we all wanted the same things in life.
My next path led me to the private sector and directly working on sustainability and ESG, and this is extremely rewarding because we get to show businesses how best to make an impact without all the challenges of conventional corporate social responsibility uncertainties. Giving businesses this empowered sense of impact is the singular reason why I am working in the sustainability space.
What is the most challenging part of your job?
CJL: The most challenging part of the job is overcoming people’s misconceptions of what is sustainability, what is impact, and what constitutes solutions. We know that cost effective solutions exist in sustainability, but too often the fear and greenwashing of complex environmental and sustainable information creates obstacles for adopting simple solutions. We spend a good amount of time educating and providing better information to our community.
What qualities are useful to have for a career in sustainability?
CJL: Patience, curiosity, and persistence. You will meet many different types of people and businesses who will tell you that sustainability or business-focused environmental solutions can’t work or don't exist. However, the goal and success are always to show how [alternative solutions] and out-of-box thinking can inspire people to create and build better. A great example in fashion is the material innovation of using seaweed and algae to address the industry needs and problems with plastic. I believe that we have all the solutions in our environment, and they are there waiting for us to think and act differently.
What is the most rewarding part of your job?
CJL: The best and rewarding part of my job is to see the pure joy and excitement of individuals and businesses when they realize that they made an impact—no matter
how small—and at times, realizing that one business or operations decision can have a huge impact they didn’t realize. I love those moments, and it is what fuels and informs me.
What advice would you give to a young person considering a career in sustainability?
CL: Speak with many practitioners in the sustainability field, read about the work and research on the edges of sustainability (such as learning about why biodiversity and ecology is critical to sustainable development), and finally, identify different ways to gain hands on experience (internships, volunteer opportunities, etc.). In doing so, you will learn how vast the opportunities are and the numerous ways one can take part in sustainability progress.
How do you apply sustainability to your everyday life?
E Hey Social Good simplifies sustainable information for consumers so they can easily make an impact with a purchase.
G Orta restarted its corporate carbon footprint analysis studies to set itself science-based goals.
CL: I am an environmental scientist at heart, and love reading every ingredient list there is from food, skincare to WD40. I do so to learn and ensure that the things I use don’t impact my health and the health of my environment. I love learning about how our body works and reading a lot about our gut microbiome and how it interacts with our environment. This impacts the food I eat, the things I use to cook, the things I use to contain my food, and how my food and stuff are processed as waste. Yep, I’m a big geek and constantly think about how to adopt the circular economy into my daily life. I do believe people have the heart and will, and often just need to see how to do it in their way.
SEBLA ONDER
ORTA, marketing and sustainability manager
Why did you pursue a career in sustainability?
Sebla Onder: After I finished my undergrad studies on chemical engineering in Turkey, I decided to earn my master’s degree abroad. I found a multidisciplinary program in Canada on Sustainability Energy Engineering and Policy and that is how I got into sustainability. After my master’s, I returned to Turkey and started to work in a small sustainability firm focusing on reporting, LCAs, ecolabels etc. That is how I got into sustainability in textiles.
What is the most challenging part of your job?
SO: We are all aware that sustainability is a journey but today it is more about certifications and compliances, unfortunately. To see that grow, rather than to focus on leaving a better world for future generations—and to drown into all kinds of certifications, paperwork and data platforms—is frustrating. The challenge is to accept that reality while also focusing on what can you do more, how to collaborate with innovators, how to challenge the current systems and how to fight fast-changing dynamics.
What qualities are useful to have for a career in sustainability?
SO: Being open-minded and curious; have a willingness to learn from others and collaborate; be analytical so that you can always backup your argument; think holistically so that you consider all aspects of sustainability; be realistic but also a dreamer so that you don’t lose your hope on future.
What is the most rewarding part of your job?
SO: I wish I could answer that as to create a better world for denim, but the credit here goes to our R&D and product development teams along with the production. As a sustainability team, we support them, but we’re focused more on the research, compliance and certification side.
KIM VAN DER WEERD
TRANSFORMERS
FOUNDATION intelligence director, host of Manufactured Podcast, and freelance consultant
Why did you pursue a career in sustainability?
Kim van der Weerd: As a white woman with roots in the U.S. and the Netherlands, and having spent much of my life abroad due to my father’s role in a major multinational company, I’ve experienced firsthand the benefits of globalization. Acknowledging this privileged position, I feel a deep responsibility to contribute to making the fashion industry—and its approach to sustainability— more equitable.
What is the most challenging part of your job?
KV: The ability to critically assess who benefits from existing practices and whether these practices truly serve the collective interest.
What is the most rewarding part of your job?
KV: The friendships I’ve built with extraordinary individuals who challenge me to grow and support me through what can often be a lonely and emotionally draining endeavor.
What advice would you give to a young person considering a career in sustainability?
KV: Having the intention to make the world a better place is not enough to make a meaningful difference. Good intentions without critical thinking can often lead to unintended consequences that make things worse. Always question the status quo, seek out disconfirming evidence, and be ready to unlearn everything you think you know. True impact requires a willingness to challenge conventional wisdom and embrace discomfort.
How do you apply sustainability to your everyday life?
For me, to see one of our team to answer sustainability related questions is really rewarding. I am a sharing person, so everything I learn or read, I try transfer all of that to the team. When I hear someone from Orta team answer questions on, for example, organic cotton, how it is grown, the benefits, the downside…I feel like a proud mom.
What advice would you give to a young person considering a career in sustainability?
SO: Start your career in a manufacturer, not in a policy maker or brand. Go into the field. See the reality, what is possible and what is not. From personal experience I can also say that it is good to start your sustainability career in a consultancy firm where you’ll get to be exposed to many different industries, to see the different applications, challenges and opportunities.
How do you apply sustainability to your everyday life?
SO: Oh well, I am not a true sustainable person. I recycle like everybody else. I am trying to become minimal (buy less, own less) but it is an ongoing and slow process.
KV: The sector’s definition of “sustainability” often revolves around practices that reinforce the status quo, disproportionately benefiting large brands and retailers. This bias is rarely acknowledged. As someone who advocates for and amplifies supplier perspectives on sustainability, I frequently encounter well-intentioned sustainability professionals who want to include more suppliers in their efforts. While I appreciate their intention, the challenge lies in the narrow framing of these requests—they seek supplier engagement within the confines of a “sustainability as usual” framework. This framework is one that suppliers have not been part of creating and does not truly serve their interests, nor the broader, collective interests of the industry.
The hardest part of my job is expanding this framing and helping people understand that if we genuinely want suppliers to engage meaningfully, which is what would lead to more effective sustainability strategies, then must be willing to let go of entrenched ideas and assumptions about what sustainability means. We need to co-create a new, more inclusive vision of sustainability that truly addresses the needs and realities of all stakeholders, not just those at the top of the value chain.
What qualities are useful to have for a career in sustainability?
KV: The reality is that we, as individuals, operate within a system where our daily actions contribute to outcomes no one truly desires. It’s unavoidable. Personally, this has led to feelings of grief and helplessness, pushing me toward an unconventional career path that's hard to explain at dinner parties.
Dismantling and rebuilding an entirely different approach to sustainability that would drive systemic change feels overwhelming if not impossible. But a couple years ago, thanks to a wise mentor’s tip, I came across Theory U, Otto Scharmer and the Presencing Institute. One of the simplest and most practical tools I walked away with was the “iceberg model.” The basic premise is that we spend most of our time focused on the undesirable behaviors and events visible above the water’s surface. These undesirable behaviors and events are held in place by powerful but typically invisible underlying structures. By “structures” I mean the rules of the game, which could be formal rules or informal norms. Structures, in turn, are created and maintained by deeply held—and usually implicit— individual beliefs and mindsets. Theory U opened my imagination to something more exciting and ambitious than shopping differently or becoming an activist, yet still actionable at an individual level: maybe the role of individuals in driving systemic change is, first and foremost, about identifying and letting go of deeply held beliefs.
E Centric Brands’ portfolio includes Buffalo Jeans, Favorite Daughter, Joe’s Jeans and Hudson.
HOW DESL’S TOOLS HELP BRANDS BOOST OPERATIONS, TACKLE CARBON EMISSIONS
WWITH THE fashion industry facing mounting pressure to cut carbon emissions and adopt sustainable practices, DeSL is stepping up to the plate to help with its cutting-edge solutions. The United Kingdom-based company’s innovative digital tools are designed to provide comprehensive insights into supply chain carbon footprints, helping brands meet regulatory requirements and consumer expectations.
Here, Pam Peale, vice president of global sales and U.S. PLM operations at DeSL, discusses how the company is helping companies stay compliant throughout the entire supply chain—all while keeping sustainability top of mind.
SOURCING JOURNAL:
Starting from the top, what is DeSL’s Sustainability Accelerator Program?
Pam Peale: DeSL is deeply committed to supporting positive transformation in the fashion industry.
In early 2023, DeSL launched the Sustainability Accelerator Program as a comprehensive toolkit to give businesses of all sizes endto-end supply chain coverage. This program makes it easier to integrate sustainability practices directly into operations, helping tackle climate responsibilities and ensure compliance with social and human rights standards across the entire supply chain.
The program includes everything from digital color approvals and virtual sampling to carbon emissions management, certification tracking and factory audit tools. It’s all about making sustainability practical and achievable. Whether organizing compliance certifications for tier-2 suppliers, traceability on the bill of materials or reducing waste with digital color approvals, this program is designed to help take meaningful steps toward sustainability goals and make a real impact.
Sustainability is also about people. What are some often missed opportunities in Supplier Relationship Management, and what can companies do to improve their compliance and working conditions in their supply chains?
P.P.: One of the oftenoverlooked opportunities in Supplier Relationship Management is the need for a more complete approach to vendor selection and factory oversight. Companies can significantly improve compliance and working conditions by leveraging data-driven decisionmaking when selecting suppliers.
Another critical area is enhancing supply chain traceability. Implementing robust inspection and audit monitoring systems ensures that companies can keep a close eye on working conditions and compliance throughout their supply chains. These assessments help companies identify and mitigate potential issues before they become significant problems. Collaborations with nongovernmental organizations can also play a vital role in improving working conditions by providing expertise, resources and external validation of ethical practices.
“COMPANIES CAN SIGNIFICANTLY IMPROVE COMPLIANCE AND WORKING CONDITIONS BY LEVERAGING DATA-DRIVEN DECISION-MAKING WHEN SELECTING SUPPLIERS.”
PAM PEALE , vice president of global sales and U.S. PLM operations, DeSL
P.P.: DeSL helps businesses remove manual processes and improve sustainability with digital transformation features and complete end-to-end coverage. By digitizing tech packs, purchase orders and color standards, DeSL boosts control and operational efficiencies. 3D integration and digital color approvals allow companies to cut down on the need for physical samples, ensuring that products are developed with accuracy and sustainability from the outset. DeSL’s platform enhances control over the entire product lifecycle with tools like cost quotations, critical path monitoring and development requests for both style and materials. These features help
businesses make informed decisions and improve product quality—all while ensuring that only the materials needed are used, reducing environmental impact and resource consumption.
How does DeSL help improve companies’ decision-making with machine learning and artificial intelligence (AI)?
P.P.: DeSL’s multi-tier supply chain management helps companies critically analyze data more effectively, leading to betterinformed decisions. With reliable data, companies can optimize their operations for sustainability, reduce waste and ensure that their products are produced in a more environmentally and socially responsible manner. This not only enhances the overall sustainability impact of the company but also builds trust with consumers. ■
What other initiatives is DeSL taking to help businesses become more sustainable?
REVOLUTIONARY RECYCLERS
Three radical entrepreneurs are transforming fashion waste into sustainable apparel through innovation, integrity and a circular economy approach. by Alexandra
Harrell
what began at two empty storefronts on outskirts of Chicago was more of an idea than a product. That idea was to solve the sustainability crisis plaguing the industry. While the conundrum was a tough one to crack, three Stanfordeducated engineers and their materials science company thought they could make headway. J The resulting Everywhere Apparel, a fiber technology company transforming waste into new materials by offering circularity as a service, one T-shirt at a time, did become a product. Many products, in fact. J Founded in 2019 by entrepreneurs Maxwell Citron, Irys Kornbluth and Nick Benavides, the venture-backed material innovator wants to create the future of recycled textiles and apparel with its proprietary, recycled cotton fiber system.
Sourcing Journal: What was the inspiration for entering the fashion world, creating Everywhere Apparel?
Irys Kornbluth: The genesis of Everywhere was really from the standpoint of creatives, artists and entertainers not having a truly sustainable option for printing our messaging, our art, our merch, so it’s really that we’re targeting this more empathetic community of creatives who are, in general, much more focused on how we can better impact the planet.
That’s what’s led us to who we are today: a blank supplier selling imprintable clothing to all sorts of brands and bands around the world. What we’ve built in the past four years is awesome because we’re the truly sustainable version of, like, a Gildan T-shirt. And there’s a lot that goes into that, from a sourcing standpoint, just a lot of rigor, a lot of certifications, a lot of not cutting corners. I think that’s what typically happens in the blanks industry—cutting corners, greenwashing. I mean, there’s greenwashing all over the fashion industry, but that is specifically what we stand against.
Maxwell Citron: I’m from Chicago and moved back as my mom was dying from cancer and passed away, but she always rolled my shirts—I toured in bands forever and I always screen-printed all my shirts in the basement. That’s how I got into all this stuff, because it’s how I made gas money, when you could still book your own tour and get paid. But this all started really when my mom passed. I was out and kind of had this light bulb go off. We just originally were relabeling shirts until we figured out how to make them. And then we realized polyester is the devil.
SJ: The devil?
MC: What helped us get funded was actually some of the work we had done in biodegradable additives for synthetic materials. Our original granted patent is for something called BioBlend, which is the first recycled cotton with biodegradable recycled polyester because we were still trying to solve that problem. We had checks on the table to commercialize this stuff in Asia, and we, unlike a lot of companies, we said no. We pivoted. We didn’t throw away that research—we’re about to go further with it—but we didn’t put it in our clothes. We did the hard thing, and we figured out how to make the
first, like, legit certified transparent climate neutral badass 100 percent recycled cotton T-shirt. And it was really freaking hard.
SJ: That makes me think of scaling; is that something of concern?
IK: There are multiple factors behind that. One is that people are becoming more aware of all of the overproduction, all of the unnecessary retail. I think the overall scaling will be OK. I personally feel like the market for new apparel is now blended with the market for vintage and used and secondhand and resale and so that’s kind of changing the picture of what it means to scale. So when people are like, “OK, we need to service Target and we need to, on a dime, be able to take this material and make 7 million units in a few months,” that’s when it’s like, well, first of all, are we even going to need to do that anymore? Is it even ethical? Considering the amount of waste that we have, is that even necessary? I’m just trying to put it into context.
SJ: Tell me about what your closed-loop textile recycling ecosystem looks like and how it functions.
IK: That’s another interesting part of our story; We all have a bunch of T-shirts, right? It’s the most ubiquitous apparel product, and typically one that has been handed out the most wastefully. So, on our products, we put a code inside each product where you can scan it and return it back to us and thereby participate in this circular ecosystem of keeping materials in use and mitigating the chance that they end up in a landfill. That’s built some unique opportunities for us—we not only do that for individuals who want to recycle products, we do it for corporations who don’t want their logos to end up in landfills. We’re doing a lot of promotion of that end-of-life piece of the product. It’s a really important part of the products that we design, they’re all designed to be returned to us and to be recycled at the end of life. We feel that’s critical, especially for basic apparel.
MC: You gotta close the loop. I mean, just in like, real soup to nuts. If you find postindustrial or post-consumer sources of textiles, you shred them up—and we have some sort of proprietary ways to do that—to get the longest possible cotton fibers you can get for shredded textiles, then we spin them. We have some special ways of spinning these short staple recycled fibers without any extra synthetics in there or putting in any virgin, organic cotton. And there’s not a lot of real, organic cotton. That’s why we got so hardcore about this.
SJ: Talking about that spinning of short fibers, are you saying that patent-pending process is equipment?
MC: No, software. I was deep in the open-source game and worked at MIT Media Lab for a bit doing brain interfaces so the way we approached this is as pragmatists. If we’re going to survive right now and lower our carbon impact, we built a lot of stuff. We’ve built a lot of factories. We got a lot of
F Irys Kornbluth and Maxwell Citron
old textile factories all over the world. What we like to figure out is innovative solutions that use previous equipment with these little interventions at each stage to get a maximal, sustainable product at scale at the lowest possible cost with the lowest capital expenditure. And then we believe that’s sort of the thesis by which you create the wave, and then as you need it, you can pull out infrastructure, right? That’s kind of the Everywhere philosophy.
SJ: How does CirCot fold into that process?
MC: CirCot is just Everywhere’s philosophy applied to recycled cotton. Cotton textiles back into themselves. It’s one little lens, we’re focusing on one thing, and it’s regeneration into itself, and that’s what CirCot is. It’s cotton shirts back into cotton shirts. Forever.
SJ: So all of this is happening in your own spaces, or is it being outsourced? Where are you located? Everywhere?
IK: That is kind of the philosophy. We’ve built our model so we can activate creating materials everywhere, so we don’t actually
rely on our own infrastructure. The closest thing we are to having infrastructure is actually here in Los Angeles. We’re operationally based in LA, which is a really great textile center in the United States considering all of the history with American Apparel here, just a huge scope of labor force. But we don’t own a lot of huge machinery. We have some basic printing equipment—I’m here in our office, we’re operating out of a knitting mill, so we do control a lot of our own knitting. But outside of that, we partner with facilities, mostly in the Western Hemisphere, between here and Central America.
MC: The way we think about it too is that, we’re a bunch of Stanford people—for better or for worse. Consider that Apple,
until recently, didn’t make its own silicon because it didn’t make any sense in the margin structure, one in which you use intellectual property to create moats. In a way, stopping corporations from preventing people from doing this. Open sourcing these ideas… Hopefully the whole world takes up this torch and starts making— isn’t the most logical way to make clothes right now, for the survival of the planet, very inspired by Buckminster Fuller, and then for us, cloud computing, right? We look at these rusty old factories that we go into like servers. And we made little modifications to the operating system; maybe put in a little trip that it needs or a new needle or whatever is the minimum intervention. And then we create this distributed code. Ultimately,
WE’VE WORKED WITH MAJOR FASHION BRANDS…AND WE LOVE THESE COMPANIES, BUT THEY CANNOT TAKE THE SAME RISKS THAT A SMALL COMPANY OR THAT AN INDEPENDENT ARTIST CAN. THEY’RE OPERATING UNDER DIFFERENT CONSTRAINTS.”
Irys Kornbluth, Everywhere Apparel
H Everywhere Apparel has a proprietary recycled cotton fiber system.
F A pile of T-shirts for recycling.
G A look from Everywhere Apparel.
this looks like the Reactive Thing System: make things at the point of their consumption, collecting things back into themselves. This is an operating system for the circular economy.
SJ: I love the idea of opensource information sharing, but I don’t know if the industry does or is ready for that yet.
MC: That place you speak of is actually pretty near and is the only thing that makes artificial intelligence profitable. It needs to hook into things. That’s why our logo is a parenthesis. [Benavides] cofounded Robinhood; we’re all super deep in this nerd thing. But I think that’s what makes us disruptive in the apparel industry is that we’re truly kind of revolutionary outsiders.
IK: I think this is why we have a special connection with the music industry, because there is more embracing of new, somewhat rebellious ideas. And actually, a lot of musicians are making decisions that are somewhat outside of the realm of retail and general capitalism, although that word is super loaded. But artists can take more risks than brands can; they’re not totally dependent on reselling items in a store. We’ve worked with major fashion brands, we were a big partner to Coach, and we love these companies, but they cannot take the same risks that a small company or that an independent artist can. They’re operating under different constraints.
MC: You got to stay radical, though. We don’t want to lose that punk ethos that we’ve seen actually change the world and create the world’s most valuable companies. There’s a certain ethos of just not selling out, or selling out really hard—the hardest, actually—the punkest thing is, ultimately, is the thing that makes the most money. But integrity is everything to us, and it’s not a perfect world. As you find yourself in contradiction, that’s the vulnerability of not greenwashing. Yeah, we’ll make mistakes. So will you. Our goal is to be as transparent as possible as we go on a learning journey and bring people with us on that transformation.
BUILDING TRUST THROUGH ‘RADICAL TRANSPARENCY’
FFROM RESPONSIBLE resource management to reducing carbon emissions, there’s a lot of work to be done on the textile industry’s path to sustainability. Here, Baber Sultan, director product development and trends, and Saqib Sohail, responsible business projects lead at Artistic Milliners, discuss seeing these challenges as opportunities for innovation and growth.
SOURCING JOURNAL: How does Artistic Milliners provide trust, transparency and traceability to brands and even consumers?
Baber Sultan and Saqib Sohail: We believe in building trust through radical transparency. That’s why we’ve implemented a comprehensive traceability system that covers every step of our production process, from the farm to the finished garment. By partnering with Retraced and using blockchain technology, we provide real-time data on the journey of our cotton, empowering brands and consumers to make informed choices. But we go beyond traceability. We open our doors to audits and third-party validations, and we’re proud to share our ESG performance metrics through our annual sustainability report. We’re also committed to setting sciencebased targets and are actively working towards validation with the SBTi. For us, transparency isn’t just a buzzword; it’s a core value that guides our actions.
How is Artistic Milliners producing trend collections in a more conscious way?
B.S. and S.S.: The denim scene for AW 25/26 is a fascinating blend of nostalgia and innovation. We’re seeing a revival of early 2000s styles, a fusion of cultural influences, and a bold emphasis on self-expression through unique textures and embellishments.
Artistic Milliners is thrilled to be at the forefront of these trends with our latest collections. Our 90210 collection captures the essence of the Y2K era with a modern, sustainable twist. Shogun, inspired by Japanese heritage, seamlessly merges tradition with contemporary comfort and style. And Glitz pushes boundaries and makes a statement with daring weaves, coatings and embellishments. We’re committed to using ecofriendly materials, innovative technologies and sustainable washing techniques to minimize our environmental impact.
Artistic Milliners recently cohosted Sustainability Conference 2024: From Land Restoration to Decarbonization. What were some takeaways?
B.S. and S.S.: The Sustainability Conference 2024 was a truly inspiring event that brought together industry leaders, NGOs and academia to tackle the pressing sustainability challenges in the textile sector. We were proud to share our achievements in CO2 mitigation, renewable energy adoption and
“FOR US, TRANSPARENCY ISN’T JUST A BUZZWORD; IT’S A CORE VALUE THAT GUIDES OUR ACTIONS.”
BABER SULTAN , director product development and trends, and SAQIB SOHAIL , responsible business projects lead, Artistic Milliners
water recycling, and to showcase the positive impact of our AM Regen program. The conference highlighted the power of collaboration, and it’s clear that partnerships between different stakeholders are essential to drive meaningful change.
How is using Vizoo’s 3D material digitization technology a winwin for both business and the environment?
B.S. and S.S.: Vizoo’s 3D material digitization technology has been a game-changer. By creating incredibly realistic digital representations of our fabrics, we can showcase our collections to customers without the need for physical samples. This streamlines the sampling process and significantly reduces material waste. The technology also fosters better collaboration
and communication, allowing us to share designs and gather feedback more efficiently. The ability to visualize fabrics in 3D leads to improved decisionmaking and fewer iterations, further minimizing waste and boosting overall efficiency.
How has Artistic Milliners diversified its portfolio with renewable energy?
B.S. and S.S.: Any discussion of a sustainable future must focus on energy diversity, and our subsidiary Artistic Energy is a testament to this commitment. We’ve invested significantly in wind power, operating two state-of-theart wind farms that currently contribute 150 megawatts of clean energy to the national grid. In 2023 alone, we supplied a remarkable 1.262 billion watthours of green energy to the grid and mitigated 220,000 tons of GHG emissions through our wind and solar initiatives. We’re also actively developing new solar across Pakistan, further reducing our reliance on fossil fuels and driving the transition to a cleaner energy landscape. ■
WHY WAS A FASHION ‘ZOMBIE’ STALKING NYC?
The idea is part of a campaign by The Or Foundation to draw attention to clothing overproduction.
it’s wasn’t just imagination.
A clothing waste “zombie” was seen haunting the streets of Manhattan.
The ambulatory pile of discarded clothing—in reality, British artist Jeremy Hutchison in incognito—is the public face (or rather, body) of The Or Foundation’s “Speak Volumes” campaign, which was piloted over three weeks in the United Kingdom during the holiday season last year before creeping across the pond in time for New York Fashion Week.
The Ghana-based environmental justice nonprofit has been calling on fashion brands, particularly those
whose labels are often found strewn across the West African nation’s beaches, to publicly declare their production volumes.
The fact that the vast majority of companies consider this proprietary information means that the industry doesn’t have a clear picture of how many new garments are produced each year. That no one can tell for certain if the number is 80 billion or closer to 200 billion is an embarrassing data gap, said Liz Ricketts, co-founder and director of The Or Foundation, which stepped up its engagement with brands last month before turning the “zombie” loose.
No amount of effort to clean up textile waste pollution on the ground is a match for the Leviathan that is fast fashion, Ricketts said. Roughly 15 million clothing castoffs pour into Accra, Ghana’s largest city and capital, from Europe and North America every week. Some 40 percent eventually leave Kantamanto Market, its largest secondhand marketplace, as garbage. The Or Foundation itself removes nearly 20 tons of textile and plastic waste from shorelines on a weekly basis.
“The reality is that unless we are tackling the root of the issue, which is
by Jasmin Malik Chua
the fact that there are too many clothes being produced evewry year, none of the work that we’re doing is going to make a dent,” she said. “Holding companies to account is the first thing.”
The second, Ricketts said, ties in with the organization’s broader “Stop Waste Colonialism” initiative, which seeks to make extended producer responsibility (EPR) schemes the norm worldwide. And a third is asking brands to implement a reduction target of 40 percent over five years, eco-modulated based on their overall product volume.
