Page 1


NO.5 Editors ROBERT JONES ANNELISE SEALY DANIEL LEE HARVEY SORAAN LATIF

WRITERS DANIEL LEE HARVEY

FRONT COVER TILMANN ZITZMANN

ROBERT JONES SARAH TALLEY ANNELISE SEALY

CONTACT

JAKE KITE

7shadesmagazine@gmail.com

JESSE KRSTEVSKI

facebook.com/7sobm

VEEBS SABHARWAL

7sobm.tumblr.com

NICOLE MARSHALLSAY SORAAN LATIF

SPECIAL THANKS

Designers

THE SEVEN SHADES OF BLACK TEAM ALL THE CREDIT FOR THIS

NICOLE MARSHALLAY

ISSUE SHOULD BE GOING TO

AUSTE KUZMICKAITE

YOU GUYS / MIKE LAWLEY AS

KARISSA SPARKES

ALWAYS / AARON NELSON / NICOLE

AARON NELSON

MARSHALLAY / KRISTIAN BERGE

SORAAN LATIF

/ MY BROTHER ALEX O'CONNOR / ANDY ROBEY / DANIEL LEE HARVEY


contents ART & DESIGN 05

TILMAN INTERVIEW

10

BAUHAUS REVIEW

68

Laura Redburn

MUSIC 16

DAILY CLASSICS

18

HALEY SMITH INTERVIEW

24

VINYL ARTICLE

26

SOFTWAR INTERVIEW

054

FASHION 30

ASOS INTERVIEW

34

MANISH ARTICLE

38

SOPHIE ALEXANDERA TRAYNOR

44

HOUSE OF H

51

BJORN ARITCLE

photography 54

GASTON TORRES

62

ESDRAS HILGADO


A graphic designer who has become increasingly popular over the past month or two thanks to his daily geometry blog which showcase his talents via the sheer simplicity of his illustrations and style. He took some time off for us to answer a few questions about his work, process and thoughts upon his posts.

INTERVIEWED BY SARAH TALLEY


O

Do you ever run out of ideas or become bored with working in this specific area of design?

Of course that was exactly what I feared when I started Geometry Daily. My first goal was to make it to 100 pieces, now I got past number 160 and hopefully my fuel will last for the rest of the year. So far ideas are not a problem at all! Every idea I work out easily leads to ten more ideas. It feels like I explore an endless multi-dimensional space of possibilities, with beautiful findings at every step I take. And then there are those vast

n your blog you say that you create a new piece

sources of inspiration everywhere. From nature,

every day, that’s pretty ambitious, what made you

arts, design, technology, mathematics to the

decide to start this project?

most unusual places like astrology or the chaos of daily life. They act like shortcuts to even more

I am currently taking a year off from normal work

starting points of exploration. So this might seem

at the agency to look after my two little kids. (On

like a rather specific area of design, still it is so

a side note: Every father should consider leaving

deep, I feel like I hardly scratched the surface.

work for some time. Kids are awesome. Watch them closely and learn from them!) Therefore I

How does the process begin for each piece, do

was looking for a way to channel my creative

you design them on paper first, or do you have

energy otherwise. Something that fits between

any sort of preparation you do?

household work and playground time. Something that challenges me. Something free from clients’

First, I try to catch every bit of inspiration

constraints. Something that is already inside of

somewhere. Working on geometric designs on

me and wanted to get out.

a daily basis made me sensitive to absolutely anything that could lead to a visual idea. I take

Simple geometric designs always appealed to

a photo, I sketch, I write down.

me, so I developed the idea to daily create and publish a minimal graphic composition. I hoped

On paper, on my iPhone, on the MacBook. That

to be able to do that in the 15 to 30 minutes I

leads to huge messy heaps of inspirational bits

have available each day.

everywhere, in the analog as in the digital realm.


Yes. Working with such talented young people

a large part of Geometry Daily happens digitally,

at the university is a blessing for me and my

from inspiration and ideation to development

work. First, they ask the relevant questions

and publishing.

and are full of fresh and extraordinary ideas. It keeps me on my toes to keep up with what they

I’m also an amateur photographer and sometimes

have in mind. Also, teaching forces me to deal

I sketch a bit.

with the very basics of design: Questioning, thinking, development, graphics, composition,

Your work has a lot of postmodern elements,

typography, layout. It does not generate ideas

specifically like those of the De Stijl. Do you find

directly, but switching between creating and

that previous artists influence your work at all?

teaching surely is a huge help to keep my mind fresh. On my laptop’s hard drive there is a series of

Absolutely. De Stijl, Bauhaus, constructivism, hard-edge painting, Swiss design, etc., etc. There

Adobe Illustrator files that I work on whenever

Do you have any other forms of media or

are so many artists and designers who I admire

I have some minutes free. All the ideas end up

subjects that you like to use outside of your

and who got me working in this field.

here side by side in a happy colorful crowd. The

current project?

rough development and selection happens here.

What do you hope to convey to those viewing

Then each daily artwork is put into a separate file,

Actually I am an interaction designer, working

then brought over into Photoshop, processed,

mostly on online projects for years. Websites,

then the JPG is uploaded to Tumblr.

apps, digital media. But excellent interaction

I started it because I wanted to create something

design also needs excellence in many other

relevant and beautiful and share it with the world.

Do you find that your teaching ever generates new

visual disciplines, from layout to graphics and

After several months I slowly realize that I picked

ideas for your art? What has been your experience

typography. That is why I try to be a good designer

geometry for a reason: There is a certain set of

as both a teacher and a creator?

overall. I am driven by the endless possibilities of

rules I can rely on. If I draw two overlapping

digital networked tools. It feels natural to me that

circles, their edges will always cross in exactly

your work?

two points. If I draw two equal shapes or more, they always create a rhythm. The angles in an equal-sided triangle are always 60 degrees. These rules feel simple, but create infinite possibilities, a multi-dimensional space to explore. I see endless beauty in these rules. It feels like all the beauty is already there, I just need to make it visible. That is what I want to do with Geometry Daily.

Rather than more traditional methods, you display


your work through your blog. What has been your

up the daily schedule. And I don't want to spoil

experience with having others follow your work

this fun project with mediocre quality.

on a daily basis? Have you had any interesting responses to your work, either positive or negative?

The feedback has been absolutely staggering. On Tumblr alone over 1.900 people are following, many more on Facebook, Twitter and RSS. It blows my mind that so many want to see the next daily post. It's incredibly motivating.

Also I'm floored by how many great like-minded people I meet. There is hardly a day without somebody writing from any corner of the world. Just to say hi, get in touch, give feedback, ask for advice. Surprisingly, there is a great number of musicians and producers who ask for a composition to use it for the cover of their next album, digital release or even tape.

Publishing on the internet was the perfect way to go, a free and easy way to publish world-wide. All the attention I get, I owe it all to the kind people that re-blogged, tweeted, and blogged the hell out of Geometry Daily. Thank you very much! Please keep it up, tell your friends!

Do you have further plans for the future of Geometry Daily?

Many have asked for real prints of Geometry Dailies, as well as t-shirts. I am still looking into the possibilities of digital or manual printing. There will definitely be a way to buy stuff in the near future, at the moment I'm just busy with keeping

Tilman Zitzmann's tumblr


Bauhaus Art as Life Written by Soraan Latif

Bauhaus Art as Life is a time capsule exhibiting the first steps and the fall of one of the most influential and revolutionary design institutions ever created. Teachers at the institute included some of the most important artists and designer within the past century including Paul Klee, Wassily Kandinsky and Theo van Doesburg. From graphic design, architecture, interior design and even textiles they have had a huge effect on current designers and artists. They were the driving force behind modernism and tried to change society through design in the aftermath of WWI. Split into ten sections, the exhibition guides you through each of these phases and sections within the history of the Bauhaus.


Farkus Molnar Design for a single-family house, 1922 Tempera over pencil on paper Bauhaus-Archiv Berlin Photograph: Markus Hawlik


The exhibition started naturally with the creation of the school when Walker Gropius founded the school by merging the Academy of Fine arts and the School of Arts and Crafts in 1919, Weimar. This was at a period of time when Germany were still coming out of the ruins of WWI, social and political changes were happening across the country. Art was also undergoing its own revolutionary changes around this period with cubism, futurism and constructivism cropping up across Europe within the early parts of the twenty century. Their radical ideas and thinking influenced the early illustrations that started to shape the Bauhaus style. Rather than making realistic illustrations they were more interested in shapes, lines being bold and assertive. I also learnt lots of new things within the first few rooms of the exhibition for instance that I never associated with Bauhaus. I never knew for instance that they were so involved in crafts, material, textiles and sculpture.

Whenever I think about Bauhaus I always think about grids, typography and architecture but of course this had to take time to develop, years in fact, viewing the stages within the progressions

of the school you can really appreciate how long it takes to create a distinct style. It would be hard to initially tell that one of these earlier pieces are created by Bauhaus, I personally wouldn't have guessed it in a million years. Yet there are still signs of the style, even in the early stages. There's a lack of texture and a flatness to some of the earlier pieces which links up perfectly with their graphic design later on for instance or the futuristic shapes and geometric casing of the kettle on the right. Its great to see the progression as you walk around the exhibition, it's exciting to see so many years of art and design flow and link together perfectly. The area that really caught my attention within the early parts of the exhibition was third section entitled, Salute to the Square. There is a clear jump forward in the schools approach and designs within the period after 1921 when Theo van Doesburg joins the school, bringing with him the De Stiji style that he created. A few years later you have Hungarian artist L谩sol贸 Moholy-Nagy also join the school in 1923. After this point you can view a greater rise to a more geometric approach to the arts and crafts they produce.


Marianne Brandt Tea service, 1924 Tombac, nickel silver, silver and ebony Klassik Stiftung Weimar, Bestand Museen


Herbert Bayer Postcard no. 11 for the Bauhaus exhibition in Weimar, summer, 1923 Colour lithograph on cardboard Bauhaus-Archiv Berlin Photograph: Markus Hawlik

Walter Gropius Diagram of the Bauhaus curriculum, 1922 Letterpress Bauhaus-Archiv Berlin


The main attraction to me though as a graphic design student was the fourth room, Instruments of Communication. This is where all the typography,

László Moholy-Nagy Prospectus cover for 14 Bauhaus books, 1928 Black and red print on white paper with wire binding Bauhaus-Archiv Berlin

layouts, grids, advertisements and posters are.

There were so many pieces that I hadn't seen

This is what our perception of Bauhaus is today.

before too like the the Kanden logo created by

It truly opened my eyes while I was gazing upon

Herbet Bayer for instance. With no exaggeration

their work, I knew already that they were years

what so ever, this could have been designed

ahead of themselves but seeing these pieces in

yesterday. It's bold, perfectly circular shape with

the flesh makes a vast difference. You can see

a clean, crisp and modern typeface all in black

the pencil marks that have created the Universal

with a light cream background. It still amazes

typeface for instance. It looks so modern, even

me how this was done over seventy years ago.

now, but to think that it was created over eighty

There are so many hidden gems like this throughout

years ago. The typographic logos created for

the exhibition with over four hundred pieces of work

a small soap company, the packaging. All of it

on display there is no way in my mind any

was and still is beautiful. Lásoló Moholy-Nagy

designer who knows anything about Bauhaus

helped create and developed a unified style of

could miss this. This is such a rare experience

design, one that was clear and provide efficacy.

to see all of this work within one space, it was a

Everything became more simplistic, from the

privilege to spend a few hours there. Make no

use of colour to the amount of information on

doubt about this, you have to see this exhibition,

the work, even breaking up the design with the

it would be incredibly foolish not to. I haven’t

use of bars and lines. Right now at university

even mentioned the rest of the exhibition which

this is exactly what we are being taught now,

takes a closer look at photography, artichectire

how to communicate a message effectively. The

and interview design. The exhibition covers

principles that they created then still exist today.

everything about Bauhaus, including the letter to the students informing that the school was being closed down. By far one of the best exhibitions that I've been to in the past view years.

Bauhaus: Art as Life at Barbican Art Gallery, London 3 May – 12 August 2012


AILY CLASSICS WRITTEN BY DANIEL LEE HARVEY


Everyone connects differently to music; certain

something of their own without following the rest

mind open to as many sounds as possible, I

tracks we tune into can stern feelings that

of the tribe, the artists that sang with no fear, the

believe everyone should show respect to the

relate to our childhood, it can even stimulate

producers that understood every element there

past, all the genres we listen to now, started a

specific senses like a smell, a taste to picturing

was in music, who conducted and bought out

journey somewhere, a individual looked upon

a mental image in our minds. We control our

the best of the people they worked with to the

the industry and took the opportunity to define

own frequencies, we as individuals decide what

musicians and djs that encapsulated a essence

a change, to create something that would then

music we listen to and we as individuals will use

and channelled it out to a open audience. I

create a movement for others to follow. Everyone

it to influence our thoughts as well as our image.

wanted it to be an integral element to the music

should appreciate that, we as lovers to music

section of the magazine. I thought to myself that

understand that the industry yearns and turns

Music has a constriction on the most of us, it

this would be a brilliant opportunity to show

for fresh substance, it changes, it evolves and

follows our everyday sequences, we use it to

admiration to the artists of the past and offer

rebounds depending on what is popular in the

energise, to reminisce, to show reflection of

an insight into their work. 

current market, but for me, the legends we have

ourselves to simply winding down in relaxation.

made by following and connecting to their art will

Music is a language, a voice that changes

I started the process right at the very beginning

never be emulated, they will remain intact and

depending on its location, its audience and the

while issue 1 was still in the pot waiting to be

they will influence others for many generations

message it injects upon society. We aslisteners

stewed in creativity. I approached Soraan with

to come no matter what happens. 

channel an energy similar to the onethe artists

the idea and he decided to take it on and ever

have felt while creating it. The reason why we

since it has become a rock for all that we do

In essence, this is my way of showing who has

connect to a piece because it has stimulated

here. Seven Shades of Black is a magazine

had a huge impact on me, to show unsung and

a sensation within, a sound, a voice, a lyric

that aims to give people a projection into

forgotten heroes and to give a projection into a

to the projection of a artist when it comes to

underground talent, that shows respect and

variety of genres and records that injected the

expressing can trigger a whole globe of opinions

admiration to the innovators of the media and

industry with innovation. This is only my tastes

and thoughts. I love the connection people make

arts industry and allows writers, designers,

though and I wanted to see what other people

to artists and I love the impulse effect it can cause

photographers, the whole team to be who they

would do, I selected a team of writers and I’m

to other people particularly at events. You stand

want to be, we don’t believe in barriers, we

hoping they will give you a good glance into

waiting in a crowd in anticipation, the curtains

believe in freedom, the freedom to express

their music tastes, I just love seeing people

are closed, the spotlights are reflecting upon the

openly and to give others a portal to connect

establish a connection to a piece of music and I

many faces of smiles, the curtains arise and a

to our words and images. I have loved my time

think it’s only right to see another person illustrate

crescendo of noise shoots through your body,

here and it has given me the space to flow and

it. I’m glad to see so many of you enjoy it, but I

the artist walks on stage showing a appreciation

to talk about subjects and concepts I have had

think it’s my time to let go of it slightly and allow

to everyone in the venue and begins to sing, that

stuck in my head which I felt difficult to express

it to grow and shoot down a different path, just

first note is when you begin the connection, the

with other magazines without following their

remember though to keep open to as much as

link between yourself and them. 

conventions of writing, but here it’s open and I

you can and to share those records we consider

respect that hugely.

as classics to the rest of the planet!

At Seven Shades of Black, I thought it would only be necessary to start something in relation

The Daily Classics has received huge amounts

to what I’ve been describing, a daily classic

of support from blogs that have reposted our

and by classic, I mean a record that has had a

content and it has become a highlight to many,

great impact. Pioneers, innovators, people that

something I am incredibly grateful for. I do

glanced upon the scene and decided to create

it for the love of music and I try to keep my


HALEY SMITH WRITTEN BY DANIEL LEE HARVEY PHOTOGRAPHY BY BLUEBIRD PHOTOGRAPHY STYLING BY LESLIEPENNEL


I love it when I find pure souls floating around

like Alicia Keys and John Mayer really impacted

on the internet and Haley Smith is one of them.

me, I experienced more things in my life which

Her voice is like a bonfire, a singe of warm and

I could relate to through the lyrics of their songs

crisp flavours. Haley uses her pool of influences

so that helped me to push myself when it came

to create a sound that is exclusive to her.

to creating music of my own.

Her album ‘‘A Baby and A Queen’’ is a three track splendour. The opening song Poison

You’ve released a 3 track E.P called A Baby

Apple is soaked inemotional integrity. It has

and a Queen; it’s has a concoction of jazz and

all the traditional elements, the lyrics that tell

folk sounds, what were your influences while

a narrative, a key instrument that overshadows

creating it?

the leaps and jumps in the vocal range and of course the voice which is packed with feeling

I was listening to a lot of Janis Joplin, she has

and depth. The second song on this album

influenced me a lot when it comes to artistry, I

however is the one that caught me off my feet.

read her biographies, listened to her tapes and

It’s an acapella, there is no flaunts or added

sobbed, she was a beautiful soul, pretty much all

dimensions, it just her. I haven’t experienced

I listened to while I was writing it. I loved her then

the hustle and bustle of 1940’s New York or the

and I will love her now, a true inspiration of mine.

spotlight shows in smoky jazz cafes but that track can take you there. Singers have the

Janice was a huge soul artist who injected a

aptitude to teleport you to a time in the past or in

message upon society and with your tracks,

the future. I admire her compassion and respect

they reflect more on the inner-being and how

for such a complicated art and she shows real

our emotions can often constrict ourselves

gratitude for all the support she can get. I decided

when wrapped up in love or hate, what was your

it would only be necessary to hold an interview

innovation?

with her and here’s the proof. I believe in keeping it true, stick to what you know, When did your passion for music start?

I write what I feel and if people can relate to that then I’m only thankful.

Ever since I was little, I had a lot of respect for artists like Aaliyah and listened to her music a

In today’s market, there’s a lot of soul artists,

lot to the point I became obsessed with her, I

people like Adele are holding the beacon up to a

was really upset when she died. I started music

lot of these upcoming singers and then there folk

lessons when I was about 11 or 12 and that’s when

like Amy Winehouse who didn’t restrain herself,

I really started to get into it. 14 and 15 was the

she just allowed it to flow out without it being

age I started to precipitate different artists, people

filtered, when I watch earlier performances of


her, she reflected different mannerisms of these

But I like that about an artist, it shows their

I’m going to say it anyway, What is your approach

1960’s Motown acts but still manages to keep it

human, I rather see someone connect with you

to song writing?

in time with our generation, when it comes to you

on an emotional level instead of the way they

performing, do you think about what’s happening

look physically or the way they hit notes like they

I can’t sit down and force myself to write

in today’s market and how singers are doing it now

have been told before the show to do it, it’s very

something, I really have to be in the thick of a

or do you try to keep in touch with the past and

mechanical and it makes me think are they more

emotion to find a narrative, I wrote something

remain to show reflection to soul and jazz legends?

about the music or the theatrics of a performance?

the night before this interview and it’s something I’m very proud of, it just flowed out of me, I was

Wow, that’s a very good question haha; I don’t

Yes I agree with that, I don’t believe in overdoing

writing what I was feeling and thinking and it

really have a conscious on what I do, I just keep

it or acting in a certain way just to please the

portrayed the exact message I had wrapped up

it open and depending on the audience and the

guideline measures, I balance between the two,

in my emotions. I wish I could write faster, but I

venue, I will connect differently but I don’t over

try to remain on top of my emotions and the way

can’t and I believe forcing something out instead

think it, it can often numb creativity. I’ve been told

I conduct myself to a crowd of people.

of allowing it to come out naturally can often ruin

that I look very confident when I play but inside, it’s like a brick wall falling, I get very nervous.

the quality and the meaning. I was suppose to say this question earlier on but


In terms of the subjects you cover in your songs, I

jealous I felt and I was never a jealous girl, I felt

every music journalist has asked at some point

felt a lot concepts revolved around love, am I right?

terrible at the time, it just wasn’t who I was, I

of their career, but here it is anyway, if your house

was pulling one of these b girl faces just saying

was in a burning blaze and you could only take

Yes, the songs on my E.P were all about the same

what to myself, but yeah I have evolved from

one record with you, what would it be and why?

guy and I don’t feel that way about him now.

that and I feel that love can be one of the most

One of your songs is called Poisoned Apple, you

powerful emotions to express, even if it has slight

I would take my Janis Joplin Pearl vinyl; I got it at

ingestions of jealousy!

this rustic store in downtown Atlanta and it means a lot to me and at the time I was experiencing

planning on killing him?

Haha it’s more he poisoned me, I remember how

I’m going to ask you one of the most clichéd

emotions similar to her own and I instantly made

questions imaginable which I’m pretty certain,

that connection with her. She is a beautiful woman


and I have huge pocketfuls of respect for what

often reflect the content of the music, but yeah

huge audience compared to someone who is

she did and what she stood for during her reign

like you already mentioned, artists like Erykah

the opposite?

as an artist.

stood out of the industry because they were so elaborate and different on what they did, almost

That varies really, some are doing singing

I know the guitar is your key instrument when it

like she was from another planet telling us the

because of the way the media has compacted

comes to constructing your music, but if you had

vision she had depicted in her head and with

it in advertising, oh so and so is a singer, I’m

the opportunity to expand, would you?

Amy Winehouse, she was nostalgic and echoed

going to try it kind of thing without actually taking

many female Motown singers, so there is a divide

it into serious consideration, it does anger me

Yes actually, there are so many instruments in

there but that’s only 2 out of the package so I

when people on that level will result to do other

records that I would hear and ambient sounds

can’t decide haha!

things in order to get a audience of clickers but

that my ears get attracted to, it would be good to

hey it isn’t my worth to complain, I just respect

start experimenting and getting other members

You first started posting on YouTube, doing covers

the people that work hard and do it purely for the

on board, but yeah I really need to start opening

of songs with a microphone and your guitar, as you

love and appreciation of music.

up my horizons when it comes to learning new

know, YouTube is very competitive and there are

skills that will help me develop my sound. I loved

many others out there striving to get recognition

The 1960’s was very interesting for music,

the time when I was working with beat maker

for what they are doing, do you have any advice

particularly because it brewed a lot of controversy

Languid; he produced a lovely remix of one of

you can offer to them?

and activism in music, soul and rock & roll artists

my tracks Heavy Heart.

were labelled as messengers from hell, the music Just be true to yourself, don’t get manipulated

that can turn the normal everyday people into

With soul, there’s a duality of moods and narratives,

or disheartened because no one understands

crazed party animals, but it wasn’t like that, it’s

artists like Erykah Badu often take influence from

your work first, you can’t expect everyone to love

the lack of knowledge and understanding that

a subliminal force, a world that revolves around

it straight away, just keep on releasing music

made them label it in such a way and I feel it’s

futuristic concepts, she draws in these emotions

as much as you can and make sure to show

the same for a lot of underground music out there,

and relates it to political methods and then there’s

appreciation to what is around you, speak to artists

people will touch base upon it and that will be it

others that will only induce themselves on love,

on a similar level to yourself and comment and

until seeps through onto the commercial market,

Amy Winehouse for example, who foretold the

critic each other’s work. I’m not big at all on this

what are your thoughts about this?

biography of her live, speaking of relationships,

YouTube thing and there are people out there who

drinking to doing drugs to giving a foresight of

have millions of followers, I’m just happy people

It is sad when that happens, white people of

her tragic end. She used her art as a mirror to

follow my work and I can just be me.

the 1960’s who like black music were accused as devils because the rest of society was into

her habits and addictions; do you feel that there is a divide when it comes to expression in this

Going back to that millions of followers statement,

something else, we take everything in turns, if

particular genre of music?

do you feel that some of the artists are almost

something is popular, people tend to keep on

constricted to a trait, let me explain that better,

top of it no matter the content being produced

It depends really on the person, everyone comes

say there’s a girl who has a good appearance

and for everyone who is into the underground

from different backgrounds and ages and that can

and not a so good voice yet manages to pull a

scene, you need to search for it harder and I


believe that you’ve already made a connection

glad of all the support I have received of them,

to that artist for battling through everything else

my whole family in general, lovely people.

just to listen to their material. And last of all, do you have any new material in You’re a multi-talented artist who has the capability

store that our readers can check out in the future?

to write, play and sing, is your family musical at all? I have, I have written a few songs that have quite Ha why thank you! More my dad’s side really,

a strong folk feel to them, but there’s still a lot of

my dad plays piano and sings in a choir and my

soul there and soul will always be the foundation

grandma too sang in a choir and played piano

for what I do, in terms of themes I will talk more

and there’s a piano kept in their house in Alabama

about my experiences when overcoming certain

so yeah and my mum’s side of the family was

points within my life and the process of growing

more the listeners to the music, the people that

up, I’m excited about it and it should hopefully

perceived and loved it for what it is, both me and

be ready very soon.

my mum are excessive listeners and she shares music with me and I share music with her, I’m

Haley Smith's soundcloud


L s p i

e G h c

t e y a

' t s l


Two fresh faced disc jockeys came bounding up

it from downloading. It removed the process of

market trader will give you a deal, know you by name

to a friend of mine recently, eager to bend his ear

flicking through a rack, deducing if a record was

and keep an eye out for the records you are after. And

into giving them a chance to prove themselves at

decent from limited clues, holding it, perhaps

all simply because you show loyalty to them, even if it

a local club night in town. Knowing people that are

having a listen and a traditional bit of shop dealer

is only ÂŁ20 every couple of weeks! It is their living and

just starting out on that journey is encouraging -

chit chat. Being told of this belligerent purchase

they cannot afford to just chuck a random box of vinyl

evidence that records still stir something deeper

style was a disappointment at first, but the real

at you like some bloke on eBay clearing out his "Liquid

in a listener, keeping independent shops alive

concerns passed me by until an excursion to

Dubstep" phase - they show the same passion for it as

and record markets popular. But during this

Spitalfields Market.

the buyer.

perception of these keen lads - the monolithic

The market is always worth the time and effort

Two newcomers buying a few boxes filled with random

marketplace of "eBay" had been uttered. It is the

to get there - traders that know how everything

dance records are not going to be the downfall of record

perfect place to track down elusive records and

in their stock sounds and deliver a service to

shops and market dealers, but it is harmful if these

gauge the going price for current gems, which is

encourage you back again. The general hubbub

people never experience buying records physically. The

something I massively appreciate about it. The

at Spitalfields beats the split second moment of

collector and trader are in the uphill struggle together,

two DJs stood before me were a new breed,

hope as you search eBay for that missing piece

but it manages to keep ticking over regardless due to

however, with no favourite record shops or distant

to your collection. The issue with bulk buying from

this unique buying experience. Of course you cannot

markets used for sourcing. Instead, they swore

members of the public online is simple to see, but

ignore the financial importance of buying from the

by a method of aggressive bulk buying akin to a

costly to alter now it is such a well-established

market traders or local record stores, simply to throw

cash and carry warehouse, purely thanks to eBay.

method for us to shift unwanted gear. Markets

the independent industry a lifeline. It is a sad thought,

allow you to put money back into the system,

though, when people with a burgeoning interest in

They revealed a ruthless method and condensed

sometimes more visibly than a record store with

records seek it only in its online form of trading. Get to

it into a series of steps:

a rapid turnover of stock. Markets should always

the shops, the market; get to know your local dealer. If

1) Search eBay for boxes of records

offer you a bespoke service when searching

you stay tapping away for vinyl online it becomes hard

2) Narrow it down further into genre-specific

for records too; competition around them is so

to see what separates a record from a download with

collections

similar in terms of knowledge and stock, and

all the personal bells and whistles removed.

3) Buy boxes of 500+ records only

only a great service can differentiate them. One

4) Repeat until a desired collection has formed.

bad experience can put you off a trader for a

Written by Robert Jones

long time. By handing over money to a faceless

Photography by Harry Lawford

conversation I had a revelation that changed my

It sounded cold to me, detached completely from

member of the online public you gain no service

the process of purchasing records that separates

and build no real contacts for further buying. A


Softwar Interviewed by Jesse Krstevski


zoftwar consists of Myles Du Chateau and Jeremy Lloyd. Hailing from Sydney, they have been making waves on Australian beaches and abroad with their new release This Time Around, released on the influential local label Future Classic. Softwar

musical influences you were channelling when

are attracting attention from all the right people,

making the EP?

with their most recent effort being included in disco tastemaker The Magician’s monthly Magic

Yes yes there is definitely a 90's vibe. We often

Tape as well as being featured on a Kitsuné

find ourselves mixing a lot of this type of stuff into

compilation. Having remixed the likes of Azari &

our live shows and mix tapes, so it was always on

III, Two Door Cinema Club, Groove Armada, Bag

the cards. As for musical influences this would be

Raiders and The Temper Trap, the hard work is

guys like Azari & III, Wolf and Lamb, Tensnake

now being rewarded with regular slots at music

& Inner City to name a few.

festivals and monthly club residencies. We were lucky enough to speak with Softwar about music,

As expected, the release has received warm

vinyl and parties.

praise from the likes of Azari & III, Toby Tobias, Slow Hands and the Melbourne Deepcast crew.

You two met in 2005 and it's now 2012, were many

Super pleased to have guys like this supporting

of these seven years spent working on the This

the EP, a little surreal to be honest.

Time Around EP? You use vinyl during some DJ sets, do you have Haha, would kind of like to say yes, but it’s not

a large record collection?

true. We practically started working on the EP mid-2011 as a rough draft kind of thing then

We indeed do. We have a fairly decent sized

fortunately had the final proof just after Christmas.

collection as is, but it’s growing day by day. Our

A belated Christmas gift if you will.

last trip to New York was spent mostly in record shops, only downfall was the cost to bring them

The title track features some very 90's vocals

all back!

and piano, can you tell us about which What is your favourite record and what is the one record want the most?

Too many to name!


On the topic of vinyl, so much of its appeal is the

- Its the kinda party you promise not to stay up

exported, whether it be Future Classic, the

visual aspect. The stylish Future Classic white

too late but always get home at 6am… always

aforementioned Melbourne Deepcast, and various

sleeves come emblazoned with the logo in gold.

delivers. As for overseas we are hoping to hop

Modular artists such as Beni, Cut Copy and

What are the best 3 vinyl cover artworks you've

onto a mediocre airline mid-2012 to do a smallish

Canyons.

come across?

European/US trip. The scene is very good. Lots of parties and heaps

Mystery Meat records from NYC, Lets Play House

Is there a place or a club that you'd like to play

and instruments of Rapture are pretty nice

at most?

of new acts on the rise, it’s good to be part of it.

Thanks to Myles and Jeremy for their time. The Slowblow parties in Sydney are lucky enough

Morocco somewhere suss.

to have you every month and you were in New

You can listen to Softwar’s ‘Orange’ Colour Flight

York last September, have you got any more

What are your views on the current music scene

international ventures planned?

Down Under?

Thanks. Yeah its always fun to play at Slowblow

It seems like there's boundless talent being

Mix here.


ASOS and the little guy the rise of an empire, the fall of local design. Written by Jake Kite

'A spectre is haunting Europe - the spectre of ASOS'

Undoubtedly, most readers will have come across the once-modest brain child of Nick Robertson and Quentin Griffiths. Based in Camden Town – with a second home in Barnsley – ASOS and its 2,000-strong base of employees is now synonymous with value, prompt delivery, and accessibility, setting a new benchmark for online customer service and quality. At an unprecedented rate of growth, ASOS has developed into the UK’s largest online-only fashion store, earning a cool £339.7 in the 2010-2011 financial year. The ASOS empire, by way of providing free shipping, an original brand, and taking enterprise in the affordable labour markets of developing nations, such as India, has forced many of its local and international competitors to pull up their socks – but as ASOS stocks persistently rise and the brand continues to stretch its wings, does it threaten to stifle local industries that cannot face up to the fashion world’s new Goliath.

'Quality, cool, and cost-efficient'

ASOS has managed to avoid an age-old curse of the fashion industry: polarising its target demographic. Many fashion-savvy consumers would be happy to turn up their nose at a brand that slashes the retail value of its products in a market where being able to charge exorbitant prices reflects upon the brands idea of self-worth; despite this, ASOS has managed to become the guilty pleasure of many and the affordable alternative for thousands. Often when a brand sells cheaply, it carries with it a certain stigma – a bad taste that cannot be easily removed. How is it, then, that ASOS has managed to get around this problem, widening its market from the everyday consumer and to the bargain-hungry fashionista? Much of ASOS’s fame can be owed to its decision in 2004, 4 years after its initial inception, to launch its own ASOS brand. The ASOS own brand for women was warmly received by critics for its surprisingly high quality products that sold for prices that didn’t match their exceptional build; this line threatened to usurp the then king of affordable fashion, Zara, segueing an ASOS own line for men three years later, and allowing the brand to survive a warehouse fire in which it lost £5m of stock.

With such growth, there come many benefits for consumers and the fashion world alike: Firstly, high style is more accessible to the masses – the average punter will have access to a market which previously may have been out of their grasps. Sure, whilst ASOS cannot single-handily increase the purchasing power of individuals, it does give a variety of alternatives to consumers that, despite desiring to dress in a more fashion-conscious manner, may have shied away from the idea of buying a pair of chinos that retail for £150;


S

econdly, ASOS’s London design houses give rewarding opportunities to local designers who

made, insisting that products made on home soil

otherwise may have

are made with greater care, precision, and are

been lost in the sea of

more reliable; however, this only results in prices

competition – changing

of locally produced garments being much higher

and employing a variety of designers from all over

than those of companies like ASOS, in a bid to

the capital allows ASOS to be flexible, to react,

make a profit after the higher wages paid to first-

and change as the designers and their influences

world employees, not just for the luxury of having

change, an aspect which is reflected in ASOS

the brand name. It’s not hard to see why cheap

wide range of designs and directions of style.

online shopping has suffocated local industry;

Most of all, fashion should allow for the youth

for example, I, from my house on the North of

to come through, to let their presence be felt;

Melbourne, can order 3 pairs of trousers from

Lastly, it puts pressure on some of the high-end,

ASOS that will arrive within a working week for a

haute couture based fashion entities to react in

price that would scarcely get me a pair of jeans

a positive way – for instance, if a consumer can

produced in Australia by a Melbourne designer.

find a jacket and/or dress of similar design and

Inevitably, local brands will sink under the

craftsmanship, what draw card other than a

pressure, and understandably so – at the end

brand’s name does the more expensive alternative

of the day, they exist to make a profit. This lack

have? Such reactions to the problem are starting

of industry only exacerbates the problem in

to appear between the formally untouchable

the sense that if the government doesn’t see

moguls of design, which, in the end, only benefits

potential of growth, they are unlikely to bolster

us – the consumer. But, as you may have guessed,

the textile and design industry with government

ASOS’s new dominance isn’t all roses for the

subsidies, above all in the past turbulent months

fashion world.

of Eurozone Crisis.

'There's no place like home'

So, what now are will be the overarching consequences of seeing our local fashion

Life’s hard enough for local designers – high

economy brought to its knees? And what are

rises in the minimum wages for textile workers

some of the things keeping the local scene afloat?

in first-world economies has resulted in most

One of the last bastions of local designers is the

manufactures looking east towards a cheaper

shopping experience. The shopping experience

solution. In a bid to sustain the weltering textiles

will simply never be replicated by any website,

industry, many designers have been defiant in

no matter how hard it tries. All the memberships

their decision to remain ‘UK’ and ‘Australian’

and discount codes in the world will never replace the joy of conversing with a designer or shop assistant about a piece of locally made clothing, a piece that reflects the local scene, like how an individual landscape is reflected in painting of a


valley. Coffee in hand, there’s simply nothing more

same thing as you – globalisation of this sort

succumb to their power. Local designers should

satisfying that trying on a new jacket, falling in

only demonstrates the importance of fashion

learn from ASOS, updating their business and

love with it, and wearing it out the very same night.

as an artistic landscape. Creativity such as this

advertisement methods in a bid to rejuvenate

Interactions of this sort are what make fashion

cannot be simply beaten down by a price war; it

the local industry and perhaps even use ASOS

beautiful – the parties, events, photoshoots,

is for some designers the greatest avenue of self

a springboard for their own careers. They should

new friends. These things cannot exist without

expression, of communication. Mass production

infuse their unique fashion landscape with the

local support. Individuality is another benefit of

cannot overthrow something as power as this.

business tools that are available to them, and

local fashion industry. As an art form, fashion cannot help but reflect the local environment. In

take the fight back to the Zara’s and ASOS’ of 'If you can't join 'em, beat 'em'

this regard, when I travel and take some locally

the world. Recent emergences and success of locally based online stores such as The Grand

made items with me, I take with me a little bit

At this rate, companies such as ASOS won’t be

Social is testimony to this. The big businesses

of my city, my life back home. ASOS ships to

going anywhere, so we should acclimatise to them

may have the upper hand right now, but David

over 100 countries, and in each one of those

in an attempt to reap the maximum benefits for

did beat Goliath.

countries, somebody could be purchasing the

the local fashion scene from them, rather than


Manish Bansal A/W '12

Of Indian origin, Manish Bansal moved to London in 2001 to complete a Bachelors degree in Fashion Design at Middlesex University. Upon graduation, he worked his way from the position of Assistant Menswear Designer to Senior Menswear Designer at various well-known high street names such as Tesco and Ted Baker. In 2008, being granted permanent residency in the U.K., he made the move into freelance work due to the desire to explore other aspects of fashion and culture abroad. Eventually, his craving to further his knowledge of tailoring led to the decision toreturn to university studies and complete a Masters degree in Menswear at the London College of Fashion. This training has enabled him to launch his very own label, incorporating his experience in casual wear with British tailoring expertise.


the Autumn/Winter 2012 collection. This in turn led to the discovery of the “Game keeping role," a job involving the upkeep and nurturing of the British countryside and wildlife. This image, coupled with outdoor sports such as shooting, generated the idea of using a technique called ‘felting’ on the surface traditionally tailored silhouettes. Bansal’s prior knowledge of Indian textiles and embellishments tied in supporting this concept.

Traditional tailoring, a skill necessitating perfection, is juxtaposed against the destructive felting technique. This produces a “play of perfection” and a sharp contrast within the garments. Felting involves a needle punch machine that is hard to control, resulting in an imperfect, though unique, fabric surface. Bansal explains that his methodology attempted to tame the result of the felting process to make it as perfect as possible. This in turn destroyed the impeccable tailored surface of a jacket or coat.

Manish Bansal's Website Written by Annelise Sealy


Photographer – Sukriti (www.csukriti.com) Photographic Assistant – Fen Newman Models – Primo Baker & Benjamin Warbis at Premier Model Management Hair & Grooming – Kenny Leung Styling – Manish Bansal Styling Assistance – Santiago Romero


SOPHIE ALEXA TRAYN


E ANDRA NOR WRITTEN BY ANNELISE SEALY


Sophie Alexandra Traynor is a 21-year-old

It was more that I just started taking photos and

photographer from Huddersfield, Yorkshire.Her

absolutely loved it. I never studied Art – I definitely

study in Photography began in college, and she

can’t draw. Photographs are the only way that I

has now gone on to study it at Norwich University

am really able to communicate creatively.

College of the Arts. Our FashionEditor spoke to the woman behind the images to see what drives

Do you believe in the expression “a picture is

and inspires her.

worth 1,000 words”?

At what stage did you become interested in

Yes and no. I believe that some images

photography?

have the power to speak volumes that can’t be communicated with words; everything is

I did work experience at a photography studio

subjective, after all, and the beauty of an image

when I was in high school. One of my assignments

is that you can take it from it whatever you want.I

was to restore some prints for an old lady, photos

do, however, think that sometimes people trytoo

of her and her husband, and they were beautiful.

hard to read into the ‘meanings’ behind images.

From that point on I haven’t stopped taking and

Sometimes they are just beautiful images and

working with images. My job is to take beautiful

that is all that matters.

people and beautiful objects and capture them, show them to people, I just love it.

Do you think that a person must possess talent in order to capture emotion and expression in a

Who or what influenced you to become a

picture?

photographer? I suppose so…there are lots of things that matter I don’t think there was one specific person or thing

when you’re trying to capture emotion – you need

that made me want to become a photographer.

to be able to make that person feel comfortable


and sometimes you need to be able to do the

In your opinion, what makes Photography an Art?

opposite. There is no camera that can do that. Photography is subjective; the thing that I will Does the price of a camera matter in the way that

love about an image might be the thing that

it affects the quality of the picture?

someone else hates. The personal experience you have when looking at a photograph is what

It’s all relative really; if you sat me in front of the

defines it as Art to me.

most expensive piano in the world, I wouldn’t be able to play it any better than I would a £30

Do you think film photography will eventually be

keyboard. It’s not what you’ve got; it’s how you

completely replaced by digital?

use it! Film will never disappear – there’s something In the past did you just consider photography to

about the process of creating a photograph on

be a hobby?

film that digital photography will never be able to achieve. It’s a labour of love, and it’s hands

I guess so. Although, in fairness, it hasn’t ever

on. However, I am a digital baby at heart. I work

really felt like how I expected a ‘job’ to feel and

by eye, and the speed of digital photography is

I hope that it never will! I think if you can turn

a huge factor in the way that I work.

what you love doing into what pays the bills then you’re onto a winner.

Finally, what motivates you to do what you do?

This is going to sound cheesy, but I genuinely can’t imagine doing anything else.

Sophie Alexandra Traynor's Flickr


HOUSE OF HERLIHY


text: 1234567890-= design: kristian hjorth berge photo: dave kai piper


Sinead O’Herlihy, a 21-year-old Fashion and Innovation student at Leeds College of Art, is the creative energy behind British luxury womenswear label House of Herlihy. Only in its second collection, the brand has already shown at Manchester Fashion Week and been featured by several blogs and fashion websites. O’Herlihy has big plans for her label, and says she aims to get it into high-end department stores “in the near future” (watch this space!).

For the Spring/Summer 2013 collection, the designs were inspired by French as well as the Indian architecture and kaleidoscopic digital prints. In addition, she studied the Indian Holi Festival, also known as the Festival of Colours. This comes through in her use of vibrant tones such as blood orange, royal purple and jewel turquoise.The feminine silhouettes of the dresses are constructed with silk chiffons, silk habotais and crêpe de chine.

House of Herlihy's website


photo assistant - mark evans models - laura brown & sarah jones makeup artist: -samantha mercer styling - house of herlihy jewellery -swarovski


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How to up your street cred Britain’s weather is as unpredictable as Kanye West’s next infamous TV moment, so naturally, I was delighted to receive a pair of black moon boots. Effortlessly cool enough to make Napoleon Dynamite proud. My new moon boots have a quilted effect, drawstring at the top and a branding that isn’t so unfamiliar: Björn Borg.

The brand smashed onto the scene good and proper with their lights off party on the eve of London Fashion Week at Battersea Power Station earlier this year, showcasing their AW12 collection in amazing Swedish style. Put your hands together and say Ja!


You might have seen a kaleidoscope of BjörnBorg

he achieved it in: being the winner of 11 Grand

available now, is supported by the premium

underwear enhancing the shelves of selected

slam titles in the space of 8 years. He said that

Heritage Collection, a range of shoes celebrating

UK retailers like Selfridges. NowHarrods has

towards the end of his tennis career, his “spark”

all this about Borg, courtesy of an ergonomic

joined the club and will be officially launching

for the game had gone. That spark that is now

and fashionable design. With his blonde locks,

an exclusive in house Björn Borg shop in mid-

synonymous with his fashion label instead.

fiercely blue eyes and a headband for a crown,

September. With apparel, footwear, underwear

Borg nailed that Prince Charming look hands

and bags, the whole brand will be showcased.

Don’t be trippin’ if you haven’t already gotyourself

down. Now you can trend set vicariously through

The vibe, however, is totally starting to be about

a hip pair of the brand’s sneakers, just hurry up.

his trademark footwear. For the new collection,

their footwear.

This season, we can get our kicks from one fine-

inspiration was drawn from all aspects of his life

tuned array of shoes retailing at an affordable £50

to create end products of near perfection. The

To read about the sports star online, you would

to £120. Swedish born tennis prodigy Björn Borg

key features of a shoe from the heritage collection

take a mouse journey that looks something like

attracted fans left, right and centre for, not just his

include headband details in the linings, a portrait

this: Google>Wimbledon>Heritage>History>

style of playing, but also his style of dress. The

of Björn’s face on the tongue and a stitched

Legends> Björn Borg. Legend is right; Borg

swede was dapper and seemed to be oblivious to

signature on the outside of the shoe. Only the

achieved a lot in proportion to the amount of time

it. The new Björn Borg Footwear SS12 collection,

finest of materials have been sourced to form


each shoe: pliable suede, premium napa and

and boots. Big love for the navy and yellow Anders

right by the age of 25, before retiring to become

unfinished canvas to name a few.

Heritage shoe, retailing at £89. As if Summer

something even bigger: a family man. One should

couldn’t be more exciting, there’s also the added

only wear his career inspired footwear with the

With the 2012 Olympics drawing ever closer, it’s

option of chic, minimalist wedges for ladies. The

utmost respect.

time to start injecting some of the sportswear and

Swedish brand stresses quality and luxury for all

futuristic looks that were sprinkled all over the

its models – what more is needed? The summer

Bjorn Borg's website

runways at London Fashion Week SS12 into your

collection is peppy and playful; a moment please

Written by Veebs Sabharwal

wardrobe. If you’re not quite ready to rock the lycra

while I pencil the sand coloured Flavia wedges

or neoprene then there’s no better way to channel

on to my wishlist (and the suede Thomas shoes

the trend than investing in a pair of psychedelic

in grey for all my guy friends).

Björn Borg sneakers from the main footwear line instead; one that can only be described with 3

So don your brightly coloured headphones, bust

Cs – creative, colourful and contemporary. The

out some classics, and rule the streets with your

line has a heavy mix of sneakers in low and mid

shiny new shoes – laces done up and everything.

versions as well as a selection of flats, flip-flops

Björn Borg became a phenomenon in his own


Gaston T

o

r

r

e

s


LAURA REDBURN “Snapshots from dreams and other worlds� is how Laura describes her collages - and indeed, the colourful combination of surrealism, nostalgia, science fiction and romance in question couldn't be put into words any more aptly. The artworks possess the same poetic ring, but however paired with a kind of quirkiness lose their seriousness to an original and friendly edge.

The artist's love for animals, flowers and old films clearly shows, as they are recurring protagonists in her compositions. Yet unlike Salvador Dali's highly complex theoretical dream worlds, Laura's collages are based on a more easygoing and natural manner of work. Often starting with one image she might want to use, the artist from Wales relies on instinct and spontaneous ideas about combining colours and shapes. Folders of cut- outs and books with illustrations and photos provide the visual repertoire, as Laura


will use digital means only for finishing touches.

of surrealist anarchy. The lighthearted pieces,

“There's something about working with actual

leaving plenty of room for personal interpretation,

paper, cutting with scissors that you can't recreate

often have a sort of mystery about them. Some

working on a computer and I'm a very tactile

appear to convey childhood memories and

person, so I like to work with my hands as much

innocence, others seem slightly humourous or

as I can.”

sarcastic. Having created an animation recently, Laura says she would like to explore this medium

Throughout the œvre, her favour of expressionism,

further, “particularly doing things by hand” and

dada and surrealism are reflected in the choice of

continue to be prolific as “I definitely feel best

themes, faible for colour and embraced freedom

when I'm creating something”.

Laura Redburn's website Written by Nicole Marshallsay


Like our facebook page for daily art and design inspiration


Just wanted to say a quick thank you to everyone who has helped me get this far from Daniel, Peter, Alex and some 15 year old kid to right now a group of 26 including Aaron, nicole and Rober and to everyone else how has helped inbetween. Its crazy to be quiet honest, you guys deserve more credit for this magazine than I do. Thank you Soraan Latif Editor of Seven Shades of Black


Seven Shades of Black - Five  

A review of the Bauhaus exhibition, Interview with Haley smith, Manish Bansal, Sophie Traynor, Softwar, Gaston Torres's photography and more...

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