Fur seals in repose on Rábida Island with the National Geographic Gemini in the background.
A NATURAL SELECTION With expert guidance and comfortably luxurious ships, National Geographic Lindblad Expeditions offers best-in-class cruises in the Galápagos Islands. Written by Bridget Cottrell Even if you've never seen a whale in person, you undoubtedly know what it sounds like. The instant I heard the "pfft" of its powerful exhalation, I sprang to my feet, making it to the balcony of my cabin aboard the National Geographic Gemini—one of the two newest members of the National Geographic-Lindblad Expeditions' fleet in the Galápagos Islands— just in time to take in the sight of a massive blue whale surfacing several times before descending back into the depths and taking with it any lingering doubts I had that the Galápagos Islands are a sight to behold. It was my second time visiting the Galápagos, and I'd returned to see if a different perspective—traveling via water versus a landbased tour— would alter my somewhat underwhelmed first impression. It did. A paradigm shift would be wholly unnecessary if I considered myself an ornithophile, a rockhound, or a herpetophile; however, as someone who prefers flowery landscapes and fuzzy creatures, I leaned heavily on the expertise of the National Geographic onboard experts to broaden my horizons and deepen my appreciation for the Galápagos' exquisite tapestry of distinct habitat zones, some with creatures found nowhere else in the world. Access to the more than 75,000 square miles of protected ocean in the Galápagos is strictly controlled. Though the National 36 slmag.net
Geographic Gemini was initially designed to host 100 guests, capacity is capped at 48 (with more crew on board than guests!). At any given time, about 100 ships are operating in the region (including four in the National Geographic-Lindblad Expeditions fleet), all following pre-approved routes and stops and each accompanied at all times by an Ecuadorian naturalist, who is there to maintain the wildlife's ecological naivety as it relates to humans, and to provide a wealth of information along the way. Still, not all guides are created equal, as I learned on my first voyage with National Geographic-Lindblad Expeditions to Antarctica, and rediscovered aboard the National Geographic Gemini. Over the course of nine days, expeditions were split nearly 50-50 between land- and water-based activities, accommodating people of all ages (seven and up) and abilities. Early birds like me appreciated that some hikes departed at sunrise (with a RIB boat option frequently offered at the same time), lending a feeling of accomplishment even before breakfast. In between expeditions, while surveying the largely untouched, Jurassic Park-like landscape dotted with lava cones as we cruised along, I couldn't help but wonder if a Pleistocene epoch straggler was hiding out somewhere in there.