THIS IS THE SO CALLED YOUTH
PAGES ONE-FOUR Meet Tschan: Adrogynous Fashion PAGES FIVE- SIX Transformed, an anonymous interview PAGES SEVEN- EIGHT Creative Innovators: Meet Rick Owens PAGES EIGHT-NINE Creative Innovators: Meet Fazane Malik PAGES NINE- TWELVE Word on the street : Meet Katrine
PAGES FIFTEEN- SIXTEEN Indie Kicks : Meet Boy Mandeville
PAGES THIRTEEN-FOURTEEN Indie Electronics: Meet White Mink
PAGES SEVENTEEN- EIGHTEN Kaiser of Fashion: Tim Walker PAGES NINETEEN- TWENTY London Gemstones- Dining
PAGES TWENTY- TWENTYONE New ways to shop in the City
PAGES TWENTY ONE- TWENTYTWO The voice behind Neutral Magazine
NEUTRAL MAGAZINE by Sophie Mayanne Alex Kessler Miriam MacGeh Risha Gayle
AN ALTERNATIVE SIDE TO FASHION AND THE NEW FACE OF NEUTRAL, MEET TSCHAN ANDREWS, THE BOY WITH ULTIMATE STYLE
ADROGYNOUS style TSCHAN ANDREWS From the experience of my foundation year at Camberwell College of Arts, Tschan Andrews was someone who inspired me from the moment I first saw him strutting down the hallway sporting an actual oversized table cloth as a dress with his signature ‘Naomi’ wig. Always standing out as someone who clearly made a daily effort in putting together his ensemble; it was apparent that he wasn’t affected by the standard woes that beset us all each morning when getting dressed, he was merely living in his own world and putting forth across his interpretation of it through garments. Most things Tschan wore were self-customised, always daring, gender-neutral and paired with obscenely high Jeffery Campbell-esque heels. Currently studying BA Menswear at London College of Fashion, Andrews may be one to keep an eye out for in the future. Written by Alex Kessler Photography by Alex Kessler Styling - Tschan Andrews Model- Tschan Andrews Clothing- Model’s own
A: How are you finding your experience at Uni? T:I’ve been given the creative freedom to express my individualism through my work and there’s nothing more liberating than that so, yeah, it’s going pretty great! A: How do you work best? T: On my own. I’m independent and find that my ideas flow best without the distractions of other people’s opinions. A: Who inspires you? T: Leigh Bowery, the 90s club kids and anyone else who likes to take the piss really. A: What music triggers your creativity? T: Spice Girls, Grace Jones, Dee- Lite and Gwen Stefani. A: What do you see yourself doing in 5 years? T: I’d love nothing more than to have my own label. Also to be able to showcase my designs and ideas through film, because I believe that’s the future in fashion. A: What do you love most about living in London? T: I love that I can create my own wonderland without having to come in contact with real people, unless using public transport of course. A: What wardrobe item can you currently not live without? T: My vintage cat-eye shades, what would I be without them?!
Tschan Andrews By Alex Kessler
What T-SCENE TRANSGENDER Where YOU SHOP AND PARTY
Transgender is the term applied for one who has a tendency to vary from a culturally conventional gender identity. Transgender is a state of one’s identiy, and is a self identification that is different to the one assigned at birth. It does not imply specific sexual orientation but some may identify as hetrosexual or bisexual and so on. The exact definition of Transgender has yet to be defined - which is why Neutral are here to redefine opinions! If you are part of this community, or just feel like an adventure- you can shop at Transformation in Euston, maybe not the most desirable place, but honest in it’s intentions all the same. Transformation is the only shop in the UK that pureley sells clothing for the transgender community. The shopkeeper was a little apprehensive talking to us, but did comment ‘Generally to a cross dresser being a woman means short skirts, red lips and blue eyeshadow- oh and six inch heels. The more glamourous, the better- in a way there is almost an underlying competition - the more glam the better’ The shop, neighboured by a sauna and a sex shop is located in a less desirable looking part of Euston, the shop windows are concealed by paintwork and advertising - giving a sense of mystery and privacy. Inside, racks of jewellery like ‘Grandma’ would wear gleam under the fluroscent lights. Shelves
at the back of the store give of an aura of ‘ boudoir’ and the clothes lining the walls are somewhat reminiscient of a fancy dress shop. And if your into an adventurous night out there are a huge array of dedicated nightclubs. After doing some research into where the nightclubs our favourite is the ‘Way Out Club’ located underneath London Bridge opens it’s doors every Friday night. The idea of a nightclub in a business like area was both bizarre but exhilerating. Prior to attending I had a lot of preconceptions on how I would be treated and whether Sophie and I would actually be let in, as we are not exclusively part of the scene. However, when we arrived at the door a nice ‘lady’ dressed in a sequined marooned fishtail dress greeted us in a warm and welcoming manner. Once we explained who we were, she kindly agreed to let us go in for a brief look , but that pictures were not allowed as many attendees prefer their identity to remain discrete. The club night was held in what appears to be a regular bar but covered in decorations some may percieve as being garish and outlandish, I personally however would say it was ‘fabulous’ . The London T-Girl Scene included some of the best dressed people I have ever seen, as well as some of the worst. Ranging from supermodel look- alikes dressed immaculately in creative fashion (arguably more so than the female ‘fashionistas’ of this metropolitan city. ) to hienously mismatched ensembles with overly dramatic colour and texture. We were left with an insighful- and postive impression of the T-Sc ene.
THE THE NEW WAVE IN THE TRANSGENDER COMMUNITY New T-SCENE By Alex Kessler and Sophie Mayanne
TRANSFORMED ANONYMOUS INTERVIEW TRANSFORMATION LONDON
In a rare moment of luck we were given the chance to speak to a regular customer at Transformaton in Euston, a shop like no other this shop specialies in ‘cross-dressing’ and womenswear. There is a lot of taboo still surrounding cross-dressing, and here at Neutral we endeavour to break boundaries. ‘ It is often hard to find people who will talk because this is still a very taboo subject, and very sensitive. I can walk down the street and people will look away in disgust- some will even cross over to the other side of the road.’ It is clear from her expression this is an extremely sensitive subject. ‘I knew I was different from a young age, my friends were boisterous and rowdy and I preferred the company of my cousin Ella. She was closer in age to me and I much preferred a more feminine environment. I used to try on my Mothers shoes and makeup in secret as a child, my Mother has been a huge support to me, my Father however still refuses to speak to me. It is difficult, but sometimes you have to make sacrifices for your own well being. I remember recently seeing a young boy in a princess dress in a supermarket, it infuriates me that this is not a normal thing, why are there such strict rules between genders? Why is a baby boy’s nursery blue and a girls pink? Why can I not wear what I want when I want without being a public mockery or shunned by society. In hindsight however, I have still been successful in the fact that I have set up my own business, aswell as a support network for others like me, it’# nice to know that my hardships can help other people like me. It first truly became clear to me when i met Tracy* at college at the age of nineteen. that I wasn’t truly me. Tracy was the first transgender I had ever met, and that’s when it began. The road from being Tony* to Sarah* It was a quick initial transformation, I can remember picking out my first ‘womanly’ outfit after my english lesson in the mall. It was a quick initial transformation, and Tracy has been my rock and support ever since. Illustrations by Alex Kessler, Words by Sophie Mayanne
THE FUTURE OF FASHION DESIGN
meet CREATIVE INNOVATOR RICK OWENS
RICK OWENS Here at Neutral we love artists who have their own creative visual language and who are innovative in their work. With Rick Owens moody and dramatic collection, sharp silhouettes and quirky face covering dramatics, what’s not to love? Challenging the front of fashion design he stays true to himself and his own visuals, without wavering towards the ‘norm’ and creating duplicates of everyone else’s catwalks, instead it is the other way round with creatives drawing inspiration from Owen’s own designs. Each collection Owen’s brings to the table challenges and determines his own visual aesthetic. www.rickowens.com Imagery copyright of Rick Owens Text- Sophie Mayanne
Rick Owens is an American Fashion Designer from California, whos designs centralize around the avant-garde. Beginning as a pattern cutter and draper in the industry Rick began his career by creating cheap copies of bespoke designer items to earn his ‘bread and butter’ . His own label soon began in 1994 , selling exclusively to Charles Gallery - primarily keeping him in business at the start of his career. in 2001 he was signed to an Italian agent Eo Bocci Associat for worldwide distribution with the production of his line relocating to Italy. Owens steadily grew, attracting more and more attention but a surge in fame and recognition came when Kate Moss was photograpphed for vogue paris wearing a Owens distressed leather jacket. Owens showed his first runway collection in September 2011 at NYFW and has since been copied outright both on the catwalk and by mass merchants.
“ when watching a Rick Owens show one must always read in between the linesthere is always something beneath it all” “ The biggest risk I ever made was doing my own thing, and staying true to myself, and doing the same old thing, being repetitive and establishing my own identity and aesthetic. An examination of looking at the same story from a different angle. A subtle reexamination. “ Owens is strongly behind fashion shows , and the risk that accompanies them. “you are celebrating something that everybody can feel at the same time- a ceremony and the clothes are a relic” Owens gives an almost futuristic appeal to alot of the work with moody, gothic undertones. The face is always concealed or reconstructed through fashion garments, creating a sense of mysterious awe around his shows. Tinny music reflects the mood of his work in the background. His clothes feauture sharp silhouettes with dramatic realism, and pieces that are adaptable towards the day. ‘A great way to be radical and corrupt’ Owens is not a fan of studio design, believing it has no function. Quotes- ‘Inside the world of Rick Owens’ - Youtube
Meet Fazane Malik, the creative innovater behind news womenswear brand ‘Fazane’ - a brand that creates classic, versatile clothing- perfect for the strong, feminine woman. Fazane’s Autum Winter range includes luxurious fur coats, beautiful tops and trousers- all pieces that are workable with anything in your wardrobe. Fazane studied for her BaHons in Derbyshire, and then spent six months in Australia studying with top designers Akira and Gwendolynne- giving her valuable experience and knowledge- to be in the business, you have to know the business. Fazane creates only 50 pieces of each bespoke item, and each is signed and numbered individuallymaking them invaluable wardrobe additions. Fazane is a new brand we at Neutral love, to shop Fazane Malik’s collection visit: www.fazanemalik.co.uk Text & Photography (Left page)- Sophie Mayanne Photography (Below) - Copyright Fazane
the KATIE top Pictured creatively on the left.
The Katie top is one of our favourties of Fazane’s autumn/ winter 2012 collection, and we were lucky enough to be sent the item to review! It is clear by the luxurious qualities of the material and the careful application of sequins and embroidered detail a lot of care and love has been invested in the item. The item is black lace, and is perfect for the party season or to add sparkle and glamour to a dull office outfit. Pictured creatively on the left to show the qualities of the fabric and just how glamourous the top can make you feel (hence the siren red lips) The top sits beautifully across the shoulders, and cascades down your back in a soft ‘cowl’ style design detail- adding a hint of sublte sexiness to a simple ensemble. The Katie top is available in three different sizes- S/M/L from Fazane’s website. Each item is also lovingly wrapped in tissue paper- a perfect present to yourself!
THE FUTURE OF FASHION DESIGN
WORD ON THE STREET
Katrine is our street style favourite this issue, with an eclectic and powerful wardrobe, she is a girl who walks London with her head held high. Photography: Miriam MacGeh
Katrine is a street savvy girl with a penchant for fashion, with her favourite brand being acne and a fun loving sense when it comes to styling her outfits she graces the streets with the utmost confidence. BRIEF STREET STYLE DESCRIPTION ON TOP
What I love about her style is how she hallmarks it as minimalistic but still has a unique take. Her favourtie season is Winter and she is inspired by Swedish blogger Colombine Smille.
Me and my flat mate Katrine both have a love for fashion but different tastes in our styling choices. Katrine dresses in a powerful way and has an undeniable love for shoes. Katrine likes to show she is a powerful individual in the way she dresses, which follows in line with the vibe of neutralpower in individuality. Photos by Miriam MacGeh Model : Katrine Text : Miriam MacGeh
Indie Electronics White mink: black cotton is a mix of old and new. By using old original 1920’s and 30’s music and mix it with a modern sound you have the electro swing. A growing genre that perhaps will bring us a new jazz age? The albums have been a big success and it is clear that this new/old sound is something people like. “WhiteMink:Black Cotton, a series of double CD compliations featuring 1920’s and ‘30s influenced dance floor sounds versus rediscovered and remastered gems from original 78’s.” as it is said on their website. When I was at Bedroom Bar to have my first experience of this electro swing music, I was met by “the chicken brothers”, Bedroom Bars dj’s for the night. And they had some energy! Indeed, they were giving the audients their soul. You could see from the way they were speaking through the music, shaking their heads a hand a leg, everything in the rhythm of the electro swing. Giving all of us watching a desire to move our body and start dancing to this ever so catchy tune. After my short but good experience of the electro swing, I am sure this is something that will grow, and maybe be something most people will hear in different clubs and bars, and not just for a pop up show here
MEET White Minx something most people will hear in different clubs and bars, and not just for a pop up show here and there. IT felt kind of weird being so clueless about my new discovery, when so many people around me where huge fans. Even dressing up for the occurrence! And I mean, in real 20’ and 30’s style. Like a different world, showing it’s true colors at night when there song is turned on. Black Minx are a new Electronic Swing that are creating ructions on the music scene- a band widely loved by neutral this is a sweet sound your ear drums will love! Images copyright of White Minx Text By Miriam MacGeh White Minx- Underground band. Can be found on Myspace.
Meet Boy Mandeville, the cute indie boys causing a motion on the underground indie scene, sweeat and ethereal in their lyrics with a sharp kick in their rythmic anecdotes On a similar wavelength as Two Door Cinema Club and Vampire Weekend- bands that have both caused a stir in the past three years, Boy Mandeville are one to watch. I first became aware of their sound when enduring my daily tube ride to University. Tubes can be particularly quiet places, each individual deeply engrossed in either today’s issue of the Metro or glued synonymously to their headphones. On this day, however their was a sound escaping from a neighbouring tube riders headphones- it was Boy Mandeville and I had hear more, enthused my by new music discovery when I reached the confines of my apartment that evening I began by search for more of the Boy Mandeville sound. A brilliant fusion of indie afro beats and alternative, they are sure to be a contender in the charts soon. Some songs make you want to get up and dance like you’ve never danced before, others will have you softly rocking in your sear and others are more emotionally prevoking. Boy Mandeville are based in Brixton, London and can frequently be found in local bars and clubs playing their music. Highlife rythmn and melodic beats make this music difficult not to like, so even for the most stubborn of you out there- branch out and give Mandeville a chance. Boy Mandeville can be found on Twitter and Facebook. ( The norm nowadays) www.facebook.com/boymandeville www.twitter.com/boymanband ‘Sunshine on a cloudy day’ Images copyright of Mandeville Text by Miriam
What songs should YOU Listen too?
Tim Walker has graced Somerset House for a fantastical story telling exhibition of frolics, fashion photography and larger than life props. The display is an extravagance of both mind and creativity. As you enter the first room you are greeted with introductory text- text is an important fluidity in the construction of the exhibition- snippets of the kaiser himself, and valuable insights to the opinions of influentials in the industry. The exhibition begins with an elegant and equisite approach to Walker’s fashion photography, coordinated around a room with a ethereal swan boat placed at the centre of the room. The photo with the inclusion of the prop hangs at the end of the room in all its magical splendour. Entering a small alcove following the fashion fares there is sprinkling of sand across the floor, setting a realistic venture for the photograph set in the back of the alcove. As you leave the discreet alcove you are greeted by influential fashion figurativesAnna Piaggi, Alexander McQueen and Lily Cole. The image of Anna Piaggi is particularly thought- provoking- and a important ode to the creative genius she was, the strong colours of the photogra
-ph are a striking resemblence to her personality. Leaving the abundance of fashion storys and romances we see a more sinsister side to Tim Walker’s imagination. Dark colours and moods, a strikingly realistic skeleton is draped menacingly across the ceiling- reminiscient of the mood and content of the imagery. A particularly Britsh display of beautifully aesthetic work the exhibition takes you through a fairy tale like world- somewhat similar to the likes of Alice in Wonderland. The menacing side of Walker’s work still remains visually beautiful- even when a model is being pursued by a larger than life doll, which waves goodbye to you with a pleasing and satisfactory grin at the exit of the exhibition. In a juxtaposition of all his work, it is clear that fashion is not Walker’s only talent, and even with a strip-back of props and basic set ups there is still a powerful underlying tone of thought, story-telling and imagination. Some of his simple works include Alexander McQueen with just two cigarettes as his aide and as Tim Walker quotes in his accompanying captions, sometimes a photo is just ‘luck’ Learning his craft in the cupboards of Vogue Tim Walker is both strikingly contemporary and visually nostalgic in his work. By Sophie Mayanne
A WHIMSICAL VIEW ON THE KAISER OF FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY
Youths always dismiss markets for the older generation, as if all you can find at those places are fruit, lampshades and just downright garbage. Everyone is obviously missing the point – junk is where it’s at kids! If you just simply take the time out of your day to really rummage through debris and hogwash you may just find gemstones you can really salvage to add to your wardrobe, making you fashion forward unlike every other brainwashed, Top-Shop infested, dip-dyed clone dummy. Plus it’s just a cheap and enjoyable Sunday out for you and your mates.
Ways to shop
People often mistake fashionistas for being mindless, self-indulgent individuals; throwing their money in all directions to keep up with the latest trends by purchasing the latest high end and high street must-haves. In this day and age, especially in a city like London, they could not be more wrong, well not in all cases anyways. Here are three new ways that one can stay individual and stylish without having to break the bank.
Recommended Markets in London: Spitalfields Market Horner Square, E1 Deptford Market 200 Deptford High Street, London SE8 3PR Charity Shopping Often deemed by the general public as a place for the poor to shop, however for the savvy fashion obsessed, charity shops are a goldmine. People uninterested in clutter always rid themselves of items they think are old and useless to charity but since fashion is a vicious cycle, certain things found at these places can be nothing short of magnificent! Even designer pieces can be discovered if you look carefully enough. Hit and miss but always worth the try. Recommended Charity Shops in London: British Red Cross Chelsea 69-71 Old Church St, SW3 5BS Oxfam Dalston 514-518 Kingsland Rd, E8 4AR You never know what gems might be hiding- so remember to rummage well for that hidden treasure By Alex Kessler Pbotos of local Charity Shops.
With vast development in the modern world, especially technology, everyone is just becoming obscenely lazy. There is nothing more spectacular than seeing an item of clothing on someone that has been self customized because that person has taken a small fraction out of their personal time to jazz it up. It’s really not that hard and especially living in a metropolitan like London, there are just way too many places to help you do so. Get your sewing kit, glue guns and imaginations going you media-victimized sloths. Be individual. Be inspiring. Recommended D.I.Y shops in London: KLEINS 5 Noel St, W1F 8GD HobbyCraft Unit 3A, Drury Crescent, CR0 4XU
As well as having a good shop we all love a good grub, many restaurants supply our favourite dishes from succulent steaks to saucy pasta to mouth-watering cheesecakes and indulgent fudge cakes. London has an abundance of popular restaurants such as TGI’s, Harvester and Nando’s but none of these compare to London’s top five. Firstly there is Mango tree in Victoria , a Thai Restaurant, then there is Café Des Amis in Covent Garden and , The Balcon in Piccadilly , both of which are French, Asia De Cuba in Leicester Square, a Latin American restaurant and Boulevard Brasserie in Covent Garden, also a French restaurant. These top five sure know how to hit the tastebuds with amazing tasting food as well as comparitive pricings. These restaurants are not cheap and come in at pricings starting £15 per dish to around £40. They have little specials offers like an early bird special including classes of wine/coffee, or two selected dishes from the menu for a mere £25.00 Each restaurant has a clean and modern appearance with gleaming cuttlery
equisite decorations and a place for everyone. When I visted the Asia De Cuba in Leicester square I was lost for words- the place has the capacity to make any customer feel like Royalty. Cream walls, with spot lights hanging from the ceiling and a warm glow , quirky flower pots gracing the walls and an array of pictures in decorative frames. Ir was beautiful, everything delicate but modern, I chose to taste a mouth watering cocktail -Raspberry Cloud Caprinha, ice cold and flavoursome it quickly clenched my thirst- something I would definitely recommend for individuals with a first for something new. If you sit at the bar you can see just how many alcoholic and non alcoholic beverages are available. Be it a Bloody Mary or Sparkling Water- there is something to suit any acquired taste. With top notch service and friendly staff it is both a comfortable and enjoyable experience. Although i didn’t stop long enough for food- I will definitely return to sample the delicious looking plates of food! By Lerisha Gayle Pictures of Asia De Cuba
GOURMET DELICACIES London GEMSTONES a restaurant review
EDITOR AND DESIGNER Sophie Mayanne
ILLUSTRATIONS AND EDITORIALS
Behind the design of Neutral
Behind the illustrations and editorials inside Neutral. Multicultural hybrid, visual escapist, high fashion obsessed sushi connoisseur.Having involuntarily moved around all my life, I have been forced to become an extrovert, thus resulting in me being what the cool kids call a total restless ‘spaz’. Although currently at a crossroads where there are uncertainties of which field of work I aspire to progress onto, there is without a doubt that Fashion is where I want to be. Dabbling into all aspects of it, ranging from illustration, styling, photography and pure journalism - the options for me are vast! Life’s weird and I’m just too eager to shove my face in it.
MUSIC AND FASHION Miriam Macgeh Behind the music reviews and fashion inside Neutral. Creating something, it helps the mind function right and do its thing. Living for 21 years still leaves the brain with unanswered questions, maybe living in London could answer some of them? Maybe in the future I will have my own gallery, filled with wonderful new and interesting art, living an awesome city life. Or maybe I’ll be living on a beach in Bali, surfing and living all naturale! Who knows, depends if I go left or right. Sometimes I just want to do it all. www.mmacgeh.wordpress.com
THE VOICE BEHIND NEUTRAL
THE VOICE BEHIND NEUTRAL
Sometimes I abandon my intellectual abilities in search of a creative illusion and forget that the combination of the two is what makes me the strongest. Sometimes I will create something and it works- it is beautiful. Sometimes my naivety is obvious, and I get it so so wrong. I love visuals, and frequently find myself with my camera in my hands - this is when I feel most at ease. Everything is so much more exciting through the lens. Trees can speak and people are my muse.
ENTERTAINMENT Risha Gayle
Behind the entertainment and restaurant reviews in Neutral Hello guys I’m Lerisha aka risha one of the voices behind Neutrall. I’m very passionate about fashion, specially fashion photography, styling and make- up. I’m currently studying at the moment to be a stylist/ make-up artist. I spend a lot of time doing make up for fashion shoots as well as doing a little modelling here and there myself. I got into modelling from the age of 6 or so and started doing make up from the age of 16 when I started an evening make up class, I’ve loved make up ever since. I’m 18 years old and love music, shopping, clubbing and exploring the world as you never know what is out there, I’m know for taking risks and I believe life is about taking risks as well as having fun. My favourite saying is never be afraid to be you !! xx