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products of procrastination BA (hons) Cordwainers Footwear: Product Design and Development Portfolio Sophia Guggenberger GUG09272811


CONCEPT AND PRESENTATION BOARDS


CONCEPT

The brand ‘Kleinod – Products of Procrastination’ seeks establish a relationship between maker, user and product. Believing in a way of working which involves the community in order to establish a bond and never ending exchange between the people living in it. In order to achieve this goal, the brand takes inspiration from its immediate surroundings and environment, crafting shoes which reflect the cities and spaces we inhabit, thereby creating special items which tell a story with a unique style rather than following trends. Next to the creation of original, individual and high- quality footwear, the brand seeks to question the value system held in Western society, which through its consumption behaviour, accepts over- production of goods and thereby the waste of essential natural and human resources, thereby destroying local businesses, our own communities and traditional knowledge passed on by generations of craftsman. Acknowledging these essential factors, the brand seeks to establish sustainable and ethical production as norm and advocates small and considered manufacture as opposed to a system based on fast fashion expiring after a blink of an eye. ‘Kleinod – Products of Procrastination’ sees itself as a piece of the puzzle reminding people of what is possible if we respect our own communities and the environment we live in. The range developed for the brand is inspired by London, a structure through which people move. The three key aspects investigated where detail, texture and movement. In order to answer to the concept developed previously, the range is split into three examples for bespoke pieces and a made- to- order range consisting of 6 designs. The shape of the items designed are focused around a number of classic slim and round lasts, giving them an elegant appeal. All lasts used are flat, diversity is achieved through the actual designs. The bespoke pieces are complex structures, featuring the developed textures all over, not sparing a thought to how much time or effort needs to be invested. They are designed to communicate the beauty and desirability of intricately made detailing and considered craft. The inspiration taken from movement resulted in 3- dimensional structures, which are sculpted over the pieces and make them come to live. All items in the bespoke range are intended be hand lasted and feature hand sewn soles. The made- to- order range uses simplified versions of the 3- dimensional- sculptures as basis for shape and composition. In order to make them more accessible the designs are simpler and less complicated, with the textures developed only featuring on small parts within a piece. The use of red within the uppers was chosen to give the range a more diverse appeal and bring it to life. Some of the heels, although flat, where developed to feature different shapes, in order to bring additional diversity to the range. The made- to- order range, albeit not hand made, is intended to be produced in a local factory, featuring machine sewn soles and nailed heels. The most important issue of the consumer targeted is their very conscious decision making and the high emphasis on quality. The ability to connect with an item and to establish a relationship between her, the product and the brand, is essential. Which ever age or income level she will be looking for “a product that keeps corresponding with the user even after many seasons” with a “considered dialogue between functionality and aesthetics”


CONCEPT

a walk on the wild side_detail - texture - movement


CONSUMER PROFILE - BESPOKE


CONSUMER PROFILE - MADE-TO-ORDER


DESIGN PRESENTATION


RANGE PLAN

Nappa Boot with Handcut Crochet

Suede Boot with Pleated Upper Ballet Pump with Layered Toe Detail

L 6162

proposition 3

L 6162

made-to-order

L 6162

proposition 2

bespoke

Last

Half Shoe with Fringe Detail

bespoke

Construction

bespoke

Style

COLLECTION: A Walk on the Wild Side proposition 1

A

L 05

Heel Shape Heel Height Swatches

5 mm

5 mm

5 mm

5 mm

Size Run Price

n/a £ 2700

n/a £ 2700

n/a £ 2700

3-8 £ 250


RANGE PLAN

COLLECTION: A Walk on the Wild Side

Low Cut Ballet Pump with Ankle Derby with 3- Dimensioanl DeStrap tailing along Facings L 05

L 15

WILD

Derby With sliced Detail L 15

made-to-order

THE

made-to-order

ON

made-to-order

made-to-order

made-to-order

WALK

SIDE

Lace Up Ankle Boot L 15

Pull On Boot L 05

5 mm

15 mm

15 mm

15 mm

5 mm

3-8 £ 250

3-8 £ 330

3-8 £ 350

3-8 £ 385

3-8 £ 410


PROPOSITION 1

FRINGE textured half shoe with leather application UPPER - black calf suede APPLICATION - vegetan leather - handstitched LINING - black lamb nappa SOCK and zip guard - brick red pig skin ALL edges folded HIDDEN zip in back seam HANDSEWN construction SOLE - handsewn - 5 mm - black polished HEEL - nailed - 5 mm - black polished


CROCHET boot with leather application UPPER - black calf nappa CROCHET detail - handcut string - black goat nappa APPLICATION - vegetan leather - handstitched LINING - black lamb nappa SOCK and zip guard - brick red pig skin TOP line - folded HIDDEN zip on inside HANDSEWN construction SOLE - handsewn - 5 mm - black polished HEEL - nailed - 5 mm - black polished

PROPOSITION 2


PROPOSITION 3

SUEDE pleated boot with handstitched leather application INSIDE leg worked in plain suede UPPER - black calf suede APPLICATION - vegetan leather - handstitched LINING - black lamb nappa SOCK and zip guard - brick red pig skin TOP line - bagged SEAMS - closed HIDDEN zip on inside HANDSEWN construction SOLE - handsewn - 5 mm HEEL - nailed - 5 mm


SUEDE ballet pump with sculpted toe LAYERED toe feature - 3- dimensionally arched over front UPPER - black calf suede LINING - black lamb nappa ALL edges folded SOLE - welted - 5 mm HEEL - nailed - 5 mm

_A_ WALK ON THE WILD SIDE


A _WALK_ ON THE WILD SIDE

RED ballet pump with sculpted back detail ANKLE strap wrapped around back in layers - closes with magnetic button on inside UPPER - red goat nappa LINING - black lamb nappa ALL edges folded SOLE - machine sewn - 5 mm HEEL- nailed - 5 mm


DERBY lace up with fringed detail FOLDED detailing with hidden stitching 3- dimensional shape - red goat nappa VAMP and quarter - back calf nappa COUNTER fringed detailing - black calf suede LINING - black lamb nappa ROUND waxed cotton laces SOLE - welted - 5 mm - polished black HEEL - nailed - 15 mm - polished black - stepped detailing

A WALK _ON_ THE WILD SIDE


A WALK ON _THE_ WILD SIDE

RED derby lace up with cut up deatil CUT up quarter worked with hidden stitching - red goat nappa VAMP - red goat nappa COUNTER worked in sliced texture - black calf suede LINING - black lamb nappa ROUND waxed cotton laces SOLE - welted - 5 mm HEEL - nailed - 15 mm - graded detailing


ANKLE lace up with layered back and sliced detailing QUARTER - stepped layers SLICED texture - black calf suede CONTRASTING pieces black calf nappa LINING - black lamb nappa ALL edges folded FLAT waxed cotton laces SOLE - welted - 5 mm - polished black HEEL - nailed - 15 mm - polished black/red

A WALK ON THE _WILD_ SIDE


A WALK ON THE WILD _SIDE_

BLACK pleat detailed pull on boot PLEAT detail - black calf suede CONTRASTING pieces - black calf nappa ALL seams closed TOP line - bagged LINING - black lamb nappa SOLE - machine sewn - 5 mm HEEL - nailed - 5 mm


PROTOTYPES


Portfolio  

footwear design portfolio

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