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20100

Issue n. Zero September 2017

POSTE ITALIANE SPA - SPED. A.P. - D.L. 353/03 ART. 1, CM 1, DCB MI


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cover credits: front cover picture from 2017 Milano scarpe back cover picture by Pablo Arroydo editing by Sonia Chiappa

Bronx Brevetto Pieatte

Velentino rockstud unisex capsule collection FW 2016

Editor Picture Anna Wintour “The Little Black Jacket” by Karl Lagerfeld & Carine Roitfeld for Chanel 2012

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20100 Sonia Chiappa

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Sonia Chiappa

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Sonia Chiappa

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Jean Marc Mangiameli

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Sonia Chiappa

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Anna Kirilova

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Issue n. Zero September 2017

EDITOR LETTER

The september issue AW 2018

Le Porte - Milan’s Doors part 1 CITY STYLE

The hair cut - il taglio INTERVIEW

Elio Fiorucci & the fashion democracy CITY STREETS

Montenapoleone, Instructions served CITY LIFE

La Scala, two ways in, one way out BORN IN MILAN

Alexander McQueen SEX DOES NOT EXIST

Shades of beige AW 2018

Le Porte - Milan.’s Doors part 2 DICTIONARY

The bag

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MILAN IS WOMAN AND WEARS GREY 9

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If the city of Milan was a person what would she be like, what would she be doing, wearing, loving and hating?! 20100 Milan brings the city to life and introduces every reader to a new friend and a long distance relationship!

The September Issue opens up the doors of Milan’ lifestyle: How does it feel to walk the streets of the city, having just an espresso for breakfast and talking with your hands?! Mystery and Magic stroll around the fashion capital most whispered of them all, 20100Milan shows you what there is that you need to know about it. It is the time for an old friend, Fiorucci, who unfortunately stopped his journey the 20th July 2015 but left us with unforgettable moments of fashion and also reflections – in cozy interview shows a bit of what it was and it is to be a successful designer in Milan. Is time for winter to come and to cover our skin with wool, coat and furs: a photo-shoot where the old walls of Milan are meant to invite you in, not to keep you out. It is time to realize that everyone who matters is from Milan: we question you all at not recognizing Alexander McQueen’s style in a Milanese corner. It is time to let style be part of your life. It is time for a ballet night…it is Milan time! This is a start of a friendship: Milan opens its door to anyone ready to change prospective!! Editor Sonia Chiappa

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EDITOR LETTER

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A MONCLER ICELANDIC FAIRYTALE BY ANNIE LEIBOVITZ

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style: DKNY coat photo by Marco Chiappa styling by Sonia Chiappa ISSUE N. ZERO - SEPTEMBER 2017

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The doors of Milan are the passages into the city through the walls erect around it during different eras: Roman, Medieval and Spanish. They are living part of the past, immerse in a metropolis that keep on growing thanks also to those beating hears.

They bring beauty and function as districts identification in daily conversations. Napoleon had them all redesign in a monumental style as a symbol to the new rule of the City. The architect in change was Luigi Cagnola whose idea was based on the ancient access to the acropolis o Athens: called propilei.

LE PORTE MILAN’S DOORS PART. 1

article by Sonia Chiappa photos by Marco Chiappa contributers: Comune di Milano, pedastrians, Claudia Bolgiani, Mirka Khalifi

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style on the right page: DKNY coat, Calvin Klein Jans jumper, Dario trausers

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style Max Mara hat, Oh! bag Calvin KleinJumper, Dario trausers

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style: on the next page: Russiun hand made sweater ISSUE N. ZERO - SEPTEMBER 2017

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L’Arco della Pace

Is a triumphal arch of Milan, at the beginning of Corso Sempione, decicated to the peace among the European nations declared in 1915 at the Wien Congress. L’arco della pace is one of the biggest neoclassic monuments in Milan. In 1859 4 days after the victory of Magenta, Napoleone III and Vittorio Emanuele II enter the city through the arch applaud by the crowd. The Asburgo family had the houses, on the top of the arch, replaced so that their backs would face and mock France.

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Porta Garibaldi

Placed north of the city, it addresses the way to Como. The arch was firstly built for the imperor Francesco I d’austria for his second visit to the the city in 1825, when coming from Como. In 1859 Giuseppe Gribaldi passed through it after the victories in Varese and San fermo. In 1960 was dedicated to those battles, still today you can read the engraves: « Qui sull’orme del nome nemico / Il ferro dell’italica gioventù / incise le vittorie comensi / MDCCCLIX » Here where the enemy stood we put the gear of the new Italy with our victories

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article by Sonia Chiappa photos by HBO, Koo7 and Timothy Whitw contributers: Tony&Gui Academy Milan, Eugenia Bazko

THE HAIR CUT ยง IL TAGLIO

Not many know that Milan is a hairstyling capital: once again from all over the world students and professionals come here to learn and teach about hair. More over to create the new trends that will take the world by storm season after season. 25

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Names like Aldo Coppola and Tony & Gui compete on innovation and style. Take note: popular trends get invented but to survive Milan you need to follow strict rules., that are not in text books. ISSUE N. ZERO - SEPTEMBER 2017


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The Milanese Hairstyle is simple and unique: deep brown hair, long and straight, shiny and thick. Impossible to miss it, very difficult to maintain. Charlotte York has still a long way to go compared to Milanese women; Men on the other hand do what they can with what they have left!

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According to hairstylists in Milan the truth is that Milan is where innovation starts but not where it’s sold. Milan has a precise idea of what is tasteful and proper: you can show something new and innovative but people will never buy it. It is a revolutionary kind of process: you are so not allowed to do something that creative in Milan, but to be

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successful you need to find your market elsewhere. On the bright side there is no place like Milan to get a perfect haircut, if you know where to go. Ten different layers to achieve a perfect bob and 5 different color shades to achieve the perfect brown you were looking for. Things like: the way your hair will look like when you wake up in the morning get taken in consideration

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while balancing the proportions of the cut, the lifestyle of the person, the temperature you usually wash your hair. Small details make your experience long and profound. Once you get into it you will never want to get your hair done anywhere else.

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PRADA AW17-18 COLLECTION

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PRADA AW17-18 COLLECTION

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article by Jean Marc Mangiameli photos by Gemma Gaetani and Fiorucci archive

ELIO FIORUCCI & THE FASHION DEMOCRACY

Trends hunter, retail pioneer, he is part of the old school team who shaped Italian communication and made Milan famous worldwide. After selling the “angels” brand to the Japanese and closing down the legendary San Babila store in 2003, 33

INTERVIEW

he immersed himself in a new adventure called: Love Therapy. Relaxed and Cheerful, Elio welcomes us in his huge showroom in Porta Venezia, a real kitsch museum, covered in color, pop posters from the 50’s and objects collected from all the continents. ISSUE N. ZERO - SEPTEMBER 2017


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When you started, in the 60’s I have heard your fashion career what was the atmosphere like? starts with a travel…? You could feel the shift from Yes, in the 60’s I went to London, a revolutionary city in terms of fashion, open to diversity, yet able to absorb and restore cultures at the same time. In London I found influences I could not find elsewhere and I got the inspiration to open my Milanese shop: the San Babila store: a place where you to go, stay, meet, relax and get inspired not only where you go just to buy.

The rest is history; today it is said Milan is not relevant in the fashion industry anymore. What is your opinion?

Previous page: ELIO FIORUCCI Milano, 10 giugno 1935 , 20 luglio 2015

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INTERVIEW

It is due to globalization and a communication that grows faster every day, The progress we had in the past 50 years has no comparison. Communication has changed, amongst people as well as companies; ideas and projects go around much faster. So it is unrealistic to think one is able to stay relevant, there are new players and competition is tighter than it was 40 years ago.

tradition to modernity. At the time the stores in San Babila were called: ”Principe di Galles” ”Duca D’Este” and they portrayed the dogmas of an era based on the aristocratic pyramid, after that, fashion has become democratic, starting with the prêt-à-porter till the fast fashion we have now-a-days.

How was that possible?

It is the natural escalation of the “made for the masses” kind of fashion that evolves through people’s minds. Now I will tell you story: sometime ago, we were making jeans, famous for making the female silhouette look better; one day, outside my NY store, I saw many limousines and I wondered what was going on? It was the Queen of Spain’s entourage and she was queuing for the changing room with the other girls with my jeans in her hands.

Does something like that change the trend of a generation? Yes, there have been many such episodes, the elite have been affected

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now-a-days with Princess Kate Middleton, who I adore; she buys clothes at markets and Top Shop, as do all other women in London. She is also an intelligent, spontaneous natural beauty who has contributed to the democratization of fashion.

ration. For me the Kitsch Concept is important, it is something out of the rhythm, something unusual but can also be beautiful depending on the strands you create with those objects.

Today, where there was your legendary store in San Babila there is H&M H&M, like others, offer nice, contemporary fashion that competes with luxury prêt-à-porter. Going back to what I was saying before, I think this change in fashion is the result of a democratic evolution and way of thinking.

China is a good friend. I think the Chinese add value to human creativity. They are also a potential market of a Billion and half people, and a I mean, not only as a business market but also as a knowledge exchange market. When there is real democracy, we are on the right track, china will bring out its real talents and things will be much better for us too.

Going back to globalization. What do you think of the rising I have to ask: what do you think Asian power? Is China friend or foe of the fast fashion major companies? of fashion?

I am pretty sure a lot of your colleagues will not agree with you…?

Really? I say stop to this extreme selfishness. It is not possible to think for yourself anymore. I am happy and to be honest: I have always thought I could have fun doing something else than a fashion stylist. I found myself in the fashion business by chance, but I could have done something different…

An example?

I often say I would have been just as happy being a farmer. Some people get into a job and think inwardly that they will not find peace. On the contrary I think balance in life can be found in many ways. Travelling, for example, is one of those.

Talking of that, you have travelled a lot?

Yes, I used to go to Japan when it was not yet in vogue. I am one of the first who went to Australia and New Zealand for research, collecting the many objects and clothes that I keep here in my showroom for inspiISSUE N. ZERO - SEPTEMBER 2017

Don’t you fear that all Italian labels could be bought by Chinese holdings? It is an ongoing trend.

Economic war is inevitable; it is part of the deal in this world. Mankind is not defined by geographical borders anymore but by something higher, something global.

Let’s talk about young Italian designers, what do you think of them?

I believe they often mistake the true meaning of this job. Being successful in fashion is not about being good drafters. When they come out of school they all think they know what they are doing but they have no clue. No one tells them what happens after their education is over. School cannot teach life. Life is much more difficult and simple in a way that you cannot even imagine!

So you do not believe in fashion academies?

Don’t get me wrong, education is important, but in Milan I think there are too many institutes that every year produce way too many young designers. INTERVIEW

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Take the Benetton family who started with a knitting machine and now are among the richest in Italy, I can only tell you life experience is the best school.

Provincialism does not exist in Milan, you get judged for who you are not where you come from.

What is creativity to you?

I knew him before he was mayor and I think he is a good person, able to understand the new generations needs. I would suggest to him that he brings Milan as close as possible to what London used to be: open to everything and everyone.

Creativity is a kid seeing something for the first time, it is curiosity, nothing magical. I would say, to be creative you need to be free from prejudice.

Is there a particular place in Milan you love?

The greengrocer’s markets, where you can find Italians from Puglia who are amazing, they try to mimic the Milanese dialect. It is fascinating, the way they integrate and the way Milanese love them. Milan is a meeting place, where diversity is not a problem, here you are allowed to be yourself by being at your best.

You think?

Yes, Milan is a training center for humans, which is why it is here that more ideas are born than anywhere else in Italy.

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What is your opinion on Pisapia?

If you were mayor for a day what would you do?

Liberalize everything. Another thing I would l do is the markets, as they are in London: places for the youngest without taxes. In my life, I have learned life’s true essence comes from the bottom of the ladder, from simple people. Markets are real creativity pulsing centres for small entrepreneurs, you can learn a long way, what is the meaning of a fashion school coparedto that?!

Gnomes were the symbol of the label LOVE THERAPY opned in 2003

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“Because I truly love you. Since, of me, you can’t understand a thing”.

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VERSACE JEANS AW17 COLLECTION

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article by Sonia Chiappa photos by Sonia Chiappa and Fashion Campaign FW18

contributers: Comune di Milano, pedastrians, Claudia Bolgiani, Mirka Khalifi

ยง MONTENAPOLEONE INSTRUCTIONS SERVED ยง

The Milanese style is: the bag, the watch, the socks and sometimes the buttons; breaking it down is impossible, it must be lived to get the attitude. Attitude is all you need here, but be aware, the one you already have with you is not the right one! 43

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In Montenapoleone luxury does not parade, at the mobiles foreign languages murmur about lost bicycles. Rents with driver, cross eyes while hosting those who are tangled doing something else and drive who about live has learned almost everything. ISSUE N. ZERO - SEPTEMBER 2017


In Milan, every area has a fashion street. In the most remote corners of the city is possible to find something special and unique: a hand embroidered glove shop, a regal robe shop, maybe even a bread shop with an attitude. All said and seen, the most “talked about� street, the one all Milanese know but only a few enjoy is: Via Montenapoleone. Here the stylists who made history of Italian and international fashion jostle to have a door and a street number.

Short, narrow and congested, Montenapoleone gives who knows where to look with peace, silence and marvels. Price tags have no limits just a state of mind, a wrong state of mind: a Milanese has style because he is surrounded by it. Great designers windows are part of the game, the real deal is what is inside. Take a deep breath and get into hidden gardens, dark corners and steep doorsteps, which is the way into the Fairytale world. Crystal shoes?! The Fairy Godmother must have been born in Milan?!

CONTRASTS & CONTRADICTIONS: Big Labels squeezed into small showrooms vertically developed. For the hiking lovers here it is, the urban Everest. No shop has less than four floors. Hidden stairs and concealed elevators make your visit a blast and demonstrates who has been inside before and who has not. Fashion addicted or not, you must pay a visit to ISSUE N. ZERO - SEPTEMBER 2017

Montenapoleone: it is a cultural event. People, a lot but never too many, get to the street by car, taxi or bike; They talk on the mobile and to others without any shouting; Men and women crash and blend, in a royal dance throughout Comic on our facebook page: Montenapoleone by night! CITY STREETS

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BOUTIQUES GIFT SURPRISES AND BIG LAUGHS: SEASON AW2018 45

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Armani Jeans e Book store:

Right before Montenapoleone Street starts there is the King in its casual form. Glasses everywhere and a softened atmosphere poor of color but rich in visuals. Good garments placed in dark corner. A greeting, made by someone who would never forget you just entered the shop, follows the first step into the shop. Don’t be too shy, this is just foreplay, they sell sportswear among the other things. The noise is made more from behind the counter than the customers. ISSUE N. ZERO - SEPTEMBER 2017

There is a reason why they call him the King and it has a lot to do with the clothes he creates; If you let me decide, He is the King because of the men and women He is able to design with his fashion. If you are a woman, here you just go for bags this season. If you are a man, run straight to the leather jackets. I am not sure what is the meaning of an Armani bookshop, but it is charming and it is a nice place to stop by while waiting for the pedestrian light to turn green. Comic: on the facebook page @20100Milan do not miss, God wears blue by Armani!

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Ermenegildo Zegna:

Awesome start, with color and attitude, the stairs are endless‌it is a haven for men only, from bags to socks everything is tastefully placed to be touched and moved around. The orange travelling bag at the entrance makes Montenapoleone n. 27E a place to be if you want to talk

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about style! Here is impossible to forget what part of the day it is, everyone is there to remind you and to compliment the way you look and shop. Comic: Follow on our facebook page @20100Milan The perks of speaking the right language.

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The Gods live above us so, Brunello Cucinelli opens at the second floor: a celebration of beauty in every detail. Cream white, open spaces make you feel like you are on a cloud in the sun. Pictures of the Italian territory decorate the walls.

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Small tables on small balconies overlooking the inside garden are the perfect spot for those who need a break after seeing so much beauty. Cucinelli style is impeccable, it never fails, it is never out of place. Precious fringes dress up small bags and gloves, Cucinelli’s man and woman love to wear casual, a casual where nothing is random.

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ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA - DEFINING MOMENTS - ROBERT DE NIRO AND MCCAUL LOMBARDI P/E 2017

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side.

Valentino: a corner shop mostly admired, from out-

There are never too many people around. Every color of the collection has its own room, just in case you had any doubt about matching! Red armchairs pleased the eyes. Dark spiral stairs bring you up to the labyrinth of the legendary Red. The women’s dress collection fits perfectly with Gussi’s one: the Valentino woman is covered in beads 53

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and rhinestones along with see-through and playful proposals. Fur details are widely used and unique pieces attract the attention: an astonishing fur coat makes us all dream of winter when, it has a white panther incurved on it. Valentino is going east and getting younger in every department with made-to-measure men’s suits. The legend stays so. Staff and stuff, will always make you feel at home! ISSUE N. ZERO - SEPTEMBER 2017


Pucci is all about the core: all you need is in two quite small rooms, one on the top of the other. The color blast hero, is a place for independent women who can open the front door by themselves. Foulards and shoes with silk laces are their evergreens. Winter gives us its best at Pucci, classic cuts with impeccably modern colorful prints on silk and not only. ISSUE N. ZERO - SEPTEMBER 2017

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Versace is Rock’n’roll, without rivals.

Getting through the ground floor Look is not easy but a must do, to get to shapes, colors, materials and a style you will never find somewhere else except on red carpets. Skirts are never showy but always sexy, furs are not

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paraded but worn with pleasure. Versace color palette is unique: a dark mood that can shine in the night. Versace’s man loves leather and it’s woman loves to be wrapped in precious fabrics. Comic: on the facebook page , The Versace Look!

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Missoni is the knitting paradise.

Child, Male & Female collections never disappoint your cravings for color. Sweaters to die for, that will last till That time to come. The showroom is divine; the glass door in via

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Sant’Andrea n. 3 is an indention in the sidewall of the building. No stairs and shopping in compleate freedom. Inside, windows overlook Cova’s Café garden: it remains uncertain as to who has the best view, dresses or pastry!

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Prada:

The brand has gone a long way since the beginning. Unquestionable are the sharp shaped iconic bags. Everything else has a new attitude. Inside this temple, fuss is allowed and a pleasure to see but not to be heard. Spaces are big enough for you to find your peace from other customers but not from the staff. 61

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Just oversee everything that is not a short dress or a kilt skirt (Menswear included)! Fur, yes but not quite what you think: calfskin is what we are talking about! The new generation of customers ask for fun and Prada is giving it to them. Comic: Follow on the facebook page @20100Milan Prada: Style not allowed in Montenapoleone! ISSUE N. ZERO - SEPTEMBER 2017


Etro equal Paisley prints.

Carpets in solid color squares, pictures in engraved frames, all absorbed in vintage essence. Gray, brown and fuchsia, are all you need to make it work. The blast is being read, as you step inside. The party is Inside! Linings are the secret canvas of a brand that seams not to innovate if you forget to look! ISSUE N. ZERO - SEPTEMBER 2017

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ETRO AW 17-18 WOMEN COLLECTION

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Dolce e Gabbana:

They are the only one who can make it work they way they do. Unpolished green marble covers half of everything in the shop, gold and glass are almost too much to take in. The brand is not for everyone, nor to wear nor to look at: it has heaviness in its styles that can be borne

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only by their peculiar cuts. They have it all; when the sun is shining you will shine as well in one of their suits! Please do not judge them by the service at the first floor: “Amo� means Madam!? Comic: Follow on the facebook page @20100Milan Amo...Are you talking to me?!

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Roberto Cavalli and Bottega Veneta are from and for another time! We open and close with Armani! Here comes Giorgio and finally everything makes sense. The entrance is hidden in plain view. Secret ingredient of the King, what it looks like is not what it is. The Garden is the entrance to a temple without a

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rival. Smiling is allowed and back in vogue, being yourself is what is needed to enjoy the visit and truely live the clothes!

These are who wrote the Italian style DNA. There are a few honorable mentions that stand slightly further out from Montenapoleone...

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Trussardi:

He has designed the perfect Italian concept store and shopping experience! An open space divided from the bar counter. On the right there are the tables of the coffee shop overlooking the back of the building through a glass box container. On the left the fashion is on show: men suits and women 69

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dresses are adorning the side facing the street. The best part remains upstairs. Behind the bar two elevators will bring you to the Trussardi Restaurant. Why compromise?! Fashion, food and style, at their best, at 360 degrees! Whilst looking for the Milanese style a detour to MaxMara is a must! One word: coat! ISSUE N. ZERO - SEPTEMBER 2017

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MAX MARA AW 17-18 WOMEN COLLECTION

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article by Sonia Chiappa photos from Corriere della sera

§ LA SCALA two ways in, one way out

§

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La Scala Theater, season after season, is part of the city’s charm, it offers much more than ballets, operas and concerts. La Scala is a living part of the past! ISSUE N. ZERO - SEPTEMBER 2017


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a frame of the video campaign: “an itlaian dream” by Tod’s

There are the A people who queue: - In line, - On the left side of the theater, On the same day of the performance, to get to the night ticket office; There are the B people who queue: - In group - Under the Duomo plaza, A month or two before the performance opening, to get to La Scala ticket office; Buying on line is possible but not stylish, the only other option is to get the tickets from someone else, who has been queuing like A or B. No matter if you are A or B, you will probably take the metro rise up at Duomo and walk through the Galleria, early enough to stop by ilCamparino and have a Zucca aperitivo while standing at the counter. Another option is to pass the Zucca and stroll to La Scala: get a seat at il Machesino, order a bowl of risotto giallo and enjoy the view over the busy plaze. Where beauti-

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fully dressed people fill up the plaze, while tourists and non-tourists, take pictures of them. My personal preference, would be to take the metro, get off at Montenapoleone stop and make my way to the theater on foot while leaving the amazing Porta Nuova behind me. No cars, No taxis, that would not make you Milanese. La Scala makes time stop, slow down, no matter what your life is like. There is no way you will rush a night at La Scala! Eating something more than a cracker before the entrance is a must. Firstly because you will definitely have more than something to drink and because the night is long and no one want to hear your guts murmuring. If your seat is a Palco or Platea the entrance is the one in the center. If your seat stands higher, your entrance is on the left side. Side people…Welcome to the B club: you are the one deciding the sort and the success of show and the reputation of the performers. ISSUE N. ZERO - SEPTEMBER 2017


If your side of the theater applauses everyone applauses, if your side whistles for shame, everyone else will stand silent and talk indignantly thereafter. Firstly leave your jacket and any bag that does not match your outfit at the wardrobe on your floor. Get to your seat and plan your exit to the bathroom and to the lounge bar at Intermission. Intermission never arrives soon enough and it flies away. Bringing cash is a must not a choice, odd as it sounds, the cafes inside the theater do not accept cards of any sort. Follow my lead and do not spend too much time taking pictures of the inside, get a drink and enjoy the people, around you, busily discovering the lounge. When the time is up, you are allowed to run and rush your way to the main entrance. No matter if you are A or B, there is only one-way out and it is through the front door. Right after grabbing a Locandina of the performance, generally located on the tables on the left side of the exit doors. You have to contain yourself till the entrance of the Galleria. Once

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reached that point, high heels, serious faces and aristocrat attitude can just leave the stage to a smile and a normal night. Catch the last metro and get to your favorite pizzeria. Eat as if there is no tomorrow, preferably with a friend. The smile on your face after a night at La Scala has no comparison. When the past is now, the way you feel and live changes for a moment. People in Milan generally do not celebrate La Scala because they are used to it. It has always been there. Teachers, parents and probably friends, visiting from abroad, have dragged them there. Milanese...they have just had enough, until they start feeling the call and they will to go back in time for a night! Style is pleasure and pain. A night at La Scala has a lot to do with pleasure and pain, starting from the queuing. Comic: for the opening of the season, two ways in, one-way out! Soon on the facebook page @20100Milan

Dolce e Gabbana Spring 2015 Couture show at La Scala

CITY LIFE

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article by Sonia Chiappa photos by Sonia Chiappa, Solve Sundsbo contributers: illustratorJohn Paul Thurlow, Commune of Milan, San Bernardino alle Ossa church

BORN IN MILAN MCQUEEN ยง

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Alexander McQueen means you are up to rock a party! Cutting it down to what the most can afford to see, it means: skulls, studs and UK.

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In Milan there are no catacombs, like in Paris, on the contrary it has quite a few ossuaries. In particular there is one you should pay attention to: San Bernardino alle Ossa. It is in the heart of the city, forgotten and misplaced but also unexpected and fascinating. BORN IN MILAN

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article by Anna Kirilova translation by Sonia Chiappa contributers: Pascal Ampion illustrations, UsMagazine photo

SEX DOES NOT EXIST

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shades of beige

Let’s talk about you and me: let’s talk about Milan and its lovers. Dating in Milan has its own rules: easy to play but difficult to change Here there is one honest and almost uncensured side of a story I called: the beige relationship guy. 91

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At the age of 37 year old, tired of the routine and lost expectations, I decide to give it a shot and open a tinder account. After numerous encounters, some of which incredible other less I got to the point where nothing was surprising me anymore until Francesco. His profile, definitely out of the ordinary, teased me. A movie freak guy: all the profile pictures were movie scenes from 2001: A space Odyssey to The Dreamers, he had all my kind of movies! Excited and a bit uncertain I swipe right. At that time my biggest fear was about his mental health: a person with such a profile can only be mental, the question is how much, not if. I take a look at the pictures and the comment says: “I will send a picture of me to those who can name at least one of titles of the movies in the pictures. I like girls with short hair ” Cocky but I liked the attitude. I take the initiative and text him: “ I know some of the movies very well others just a little, about the hair, define short?!” With time he actually got back to me, saying I have been accepted and the hair factor was not essential in my case! From there on we started chatting every now and then, I text and he would deem me worthy of a reply when he could. I thought it was time to see this thing through and I invited him out for a coffee. The positive reply felt like he allowed me a meeting but, never the less, I show up happy and ready to be disappointed. Waiting for me I found a young looking men, very pretty, with a degree in economics. Nothing out of the ordinary until he mentioned a second degree in Philosophy! That was the moment I got hooked: I am the one who thinks philosophy is going to save humanity. Take your time, is not like we are in a hurry, 30 seconds to explain how you want your espresso are fine by me! The time flew by and the date was soon to be over and still no invitation for a second date: no can I see you tomorrow, no can I see you again, no can I have a picture of you naked, nothing!! During the next few days, I tried to stay calm and move on to the next adventure but inevitably the silence made me fall in love with him even more. In my head: “I am not his type; I know I am not good enough for him!” Do you we all do it secretly: underestimate ourselves when compared to a man in a matter of affection?! I am not sure is an instinct or just education?! Surprisingly I get a second invitation out for a smoothie. 93

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Glowy and intrigued I went to the appointment with Francesco alias Mr Right. While talking, as we have known each other forever, I asked if he has a girlfriend or if he is seeing someone? Without any hesitation he replied that he has someone, he has a beige relationship with; they see each other regularly when they need closure but no strings attached what so ever. Good sex, no problems! They met at work, both enjoying the way things are, no expectations just regular good sex. Basically I should not care about the other woman, just focus on him who this time invited me out again straight away. A bit confused I go back to loving him and act on it by saying we don’t need another appointment because we both know we are going to have sex tonight at your place.

Nothing seemed to bother him he only had one condition: no perfume because he did not want someone to smell me and he does not want to hurt her, he did not talk to her about the situation. I call what followed, gne-gne-gne: him talking about nothing, making excuses merely for himself! A got to a point in my life where there are only a few things that can get to me: a nice guy dealing with me like I was a hore, did get to me. I cut the discussion and invite him over to my place; I needed to see if there was something to fight for. There was not, I was not happy once we were done, not sure it was the other woman factor, the humiliation of the perfume request or just the delusion of having failed once again at decoding a man. Someone with so much potential to make me happy has absolutely not respect for anybody but himself. All of a sudden everything about him made me nervous, him being cocky was not flattering anymore. I think I said something like: “we are not compatible sexually, we have no future, you can take your time but leave, I don’t want to ever see you again.” He did not see that coming. All of a sudden he found the time to call and text and ask me out again and again. I remember him crying while asking me not to leave him. During our last conversation at the phone he made one last effort to hurt me. He finished the conversation by saying he had learnt one thing from me, that to be: not to open up with anybody because there is nor hope nor meaning. Looking at him and its kind, the ones with the beige relationships, you may think they are fine, they are happy and in some ways they are: they have found somebody that fits, they have nothing to complain about, they are simply the same. On both sides there is potential for greatness but I think not enough gumption to move away from conventions. The beige colour is nice, safe, calm, it also goes very well with other accent colours but why risk it when you already have the perfect colour match?! I could not help but wonder what was the meaning of asking me out since I am definitely a red kind of relationship woman.

“the way we were “, 1973 directed by Sydney Pollack, starring Barbra Streisand and Robert Redford.

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article by Sonia Chiappa photos by Marco Chiappa contributers: Comune di Milano, pedastrians, Claudia Bolgiani, Mirka Khalifi

LE PORTE MILAN’S DOORS PART. 2

Porta Romana

Built in 1596 for the arrival of Margherita d’austriastiria, promised in marriage to Filippo III di spagna. Looking at the Spanish walls on a map they seems to be placed in an heart shape with Porta romana at its point. 99

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style: on the left: Khalifi Shirt next left page: Combipel Leather jacket, &Other Stories trausers nextright page: Combipel Jacket

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style: p.66 and 68 Bellini Mink Fur, Acne Studios Dress

Porta Venezia

(also Porta Renza) Through this door, Renzo Tramaglino enters Milan and after escapes it toward Bergamo in the Novel: I Promessi Sposi. It has as privileged position since it points to Vienna and Austria; it was the first door to be renewed in a more monumental structure at the end of the XVII century. 109

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style: p.69 and 71 Combipel Leather Trench, Acne Studios Dress, George Gina & Lucy Bag, Sportmax Wedge Shoes

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article by Sonia Chiappa

contributors: Multiple Brands Press Office

§ DICTIONARY The Bags

§

All you need is the right bag to match the right shoes and no matter who you are and where you are going, style will follow you. Milan is famous for many 115

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things among them all, bags. Every Milanese has full range: color, size, occasion and age. A fashion capital, gifts us with people walking its streets. Let’s that some notes... ISSUE N. ZERO - SEPTEMBER 2017


YOUNG OLDY Working woman with kids and a list of things to do that never ends; she cares for her back and needs free hands. style: Small Mandarina Duck Bacpack ”we are all going to end here”

OLD YOUNGEST Working woman with no kids, looking for a new kick in her look. She needs to look professional and practical. style: George Gina & Lucy” Carabiner Bag ”we all fear this day to come”

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HUNTER Working woman looking for a man who can survive her attitude. style: Furla Luna Bag ”a sure thing”

ROBIN Working woman against hunting but on her way to become a hunter anyhow. style: Coccinelle Bag ”not for the brave ones”

STATUS Well married, with taste, she never wears it because it is too heavy style: Hermes Birkin Bag ”I am on the weating list”

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DAUGHTER Yes, you can have it, now that you are working. style: Gucci Bag ”it is a promise”

LADY Looking always on the go woman, she does not need her left harm anymore, too busy holding the speedy. style: LV Speedy bag ”the power of marketing”

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BORED Milanese D.O.C. born and raised tired of life but ready to shine in the dark. style: Prada Bag ”it is part of the body”

N.B. style: Bottega Veneta Cabat Bag ”no words needed”

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§ MAN KIND

TEEN Young Milanese school boy, ready to study economics at Bocconi, he will never wear it after the holiday. style: Prada Messenger Bag ”a mistake you need to make once”

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BOYFRIEND Young men in a relationship who lives with the fashion choices others make for him. style: CK Messanger Bag ”two for one”

GUY The men who will never stop to be a the cool guy who shops for himself style: Eastpack bumbag ”bad idea”

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ENGENEER For the man who needs its gadget always with him, organized and placed safely and properly. style: Tucano Backpack ”Detective Gadget at your service”

SALESMAN He is trying hard to fit in and live how he is supposed to. style: Piquadro Bag ”women love your bag”

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MEN IN BLACK Milanese D.O.C. grey suit kind of man, respectable looking, he handles the pressure for others. style: Gucci Briefcase ”fake it untill you make it”

LOST No job description on the busines card but you will need him. He spends more time abroad than in Milan. style: MHWAY Briefcase ”only for the brave”

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EDITOR- IN -CHIEF

Sonia Chiappa Via Monte Palombino 9A 20138 Milano MI ITALY CREATIVE AND STYLE DIRECTOR

Sonia Chiappa sonia.chiappa@gmail.com GRAPHIC DESIGNER

Sonia Chiappa sonia.chiappa@gmail.com PRINT

Vester Kopi Denmark CONTRIBUTERS

Marco Chiappa Yevheniya Bazko Luigi Rigano FOTOGRAFER

Marco Chiappa ADVERTISING

Sonia Chiappa sonia.chiappa@gmail.com

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20100 Facebook page created and designed by Sonia Chiappa

THAT WAS SUCH A BAD IDEA...

Follow us on Facebook to discover what is going on at the office and all the back stage secrets we can not print on paper! @20100MILAN

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20100 Milan Issue n. Zero - Sep. 2017  

The first attempt at decoding and spreading the Milanese. City life, city treasures and lots of fun.

20100 Milan Issue n. Zero - Sep. 2017  

The first attempt at decoding and spreading the Milanese. City life, city treasures and lots of fun.

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