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07 Disposable Culture // 14 Erica Kane // 22 SHINE ON // 24 A PRESSING CONNECTion // 26 Negativity // 44 Let Them Eat Cake // 54 I Wanna Be FreE // 70 Give Me Black Milk or Give Me Death // 75 Pip(e) Dreams // 84 CeAL CEAL THE ONION PEEL // 89 CANDY COATED // 98 Whereâ€™s Your Head At? // 108 Metrical Composition // 110 Special Thanks Solestruck
Editor in Chief:
to rid THE WORLD of ugly shoes,
Pip Atkinson sharktart.tumblr.com
one pair at a time.
Celia Edell ceedling.tumblr.com
Sashiko Yuen wishcandy.tumblr.com
Jen Rowley jenrowley.tumblr.com
Amelia Parkison Edelman
Erin Flesch Design EDITOR:
Tina Snow Le
Jesse Champlin jessechamplin.com
417 SW 13TH AVE.
Brendan Coughlin brendan-coughlin.com
Portland, OR 97205
Lavenda Memory lavendamemory.com Nicholas Wilson nicholaspeter.com
Published by Hemlock Printers Ltd. 7050 Buller Avenue Burnaby, B.C. V5J 4S4
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I remember my First Time like it was yesterday. Those iconic rites of passage, and ritualistic firsts, seem to have a way of staying with us as time goes by. It was this universal appreciation for a myriad of “First Times” that inspired us to create and publish our first zine. First Time is dedicated to all those Firsts. To the memories they create, the lives they change and the direction they give. Regardless of whether the term “First Time” brings to mind steamy nights in the back of your parents’ Buick, the First Time you traveled to Paris, or the First Time you shopped with us- it is something we all share in common- the experience of Firsts. When our team set to work on this project, FIRST TIME VOL. 1 THE CONNECTED ISSUE, we wanted to go in with a theme which we felt was universal, but also left some room for interpretation. THE CONNECTED ISSUE revolves around and explores the myriad and varied ways that we stay connected in 2012. It explores how staying connected is now a part of life. Now more than ever, social networks, social circles, and staying looped-in 24/7 has become vital and hyper-addictive. For the content of this project, we dove into our list of contacts, networks, and connections as we thought about those who inspire us and shape our work. Our focus was to create an end result that gave a 4 // SOLESTRUCK PRESENTS FIRST TIME
glimpse of the larger lifestyle we have come to rely on here at Solestruck. Our freshman Zine effort is chock full of submissions from favorite bloggers, VIP clients, brands we partner with, and creatives and friends from around the globe. The end result is a visually stunning and episodic overview of how our larger network continues to inspire and drive us. Connectivity, in the larger sense, and the work of those in our extended circle continues to blow our minds, and inspire us every step of the way. This initial publication is dedicated to our fans, shoppers, and clients who continually motivate us to do more and push boundaries. Thank you for your continued support of all we aim to do here. I would like to send a special shout out to the Solestruck crew who has worked tirelessly on this first issue. Love you guys. Ladies and Gentleman, it is my pleasure to introduce FIRST TIME VOL. 1 THE CONNECTED ISSUE. Enjoy. Get into it.
Erin Flesch Features Editor
Anna Branch Fashion Editor
Shelley Buche Fashion Editor
Tina Snow Le Design Editor
Ty McBride Editor In Chief
Kayla Rekofke Managing Editor
Jesse Rush Champlin Fashion Photographer
Brendan Coughlin Fashion Photographer
Lavenda Memory Fashion Photographer
Melissa LaChance Fashion Editor
Nicholas Wilson Fashion Photographer VOL. 1 : THE CONNECTED ISSUE // 5
Autumn // Winter 2012 Collection
Since this issue is all about connection, we dipped into our network of friends and crushes for collaboration. We sent disposable cameras out to some of our favorite peeps to get a peek into their everyday lives.
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Why we love her:
We first met her when she responded to our open casting call for our “On The Road” S/S 2012 lookbook. The New Zealand native captured our hearts with her witty charm and killer exotic look. She’s a maj customer, has killer style, and is just so stinking cute!
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Why we love her:
Sheâ€™s a super-hot Norwegian model who basically lives our dream life. Seriously, we so wish we were tall, thin, and blonde. She hangs out on the reg with Crystal Castles and is involved in tons of cool projects. Jealz ... VOL. 1 : THE CONNECTED ISSUE // 9
Why we love them:
DUH?! BFFs. Need we say more?
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Why we love her:
Well, I mean she’s totally adorable! She’s a customer and has an insane tumblr that we’re obsessed with called “Ceedling” that is brimming with cool inspiration and sprinkled with her own photography. Check it out FOR REAL. Not to mention that we can’t resist her shifting parade of brightly colored hair.
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Why we love her:
We like to live vicariously through this lovely wanderer and free spirit. A native Oregonian, Elizabeth worked for acclaimed fashion photographer Wendell Levi Teodoro, musing her through NYFW, before her current gig in Amsterdam as a buyer for hip Euro brand Episode. Oh, and this stunning sometime model can be spotted in our Night Rider Vintage lookbook.
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Why we love him:
To say he’s a man about town would be putting it lightly. Nobody throws a crazy-major gay party like Kelly. He’s the fab of the fab in more ways than one. The Washington native serves up sweaty dance parties to some of the coolest queens in New York. Work it gurl!
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Photographed by Jesse Champlin Styled by Tina Snow Le
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JaCKET: FUNKyTOwN VINTagE TOP: wHIT DEDE DUNgaREES V2: SURFaCE TO aIr Megalodon SHaRK TOOTH EaRRINg: STICKS & STONES SHOES: aDIDaS ORIgINaLS X JEREMy SCOTT VOL. 1 : THE CONNECTED ISSUE // 15
VINTagE MICKEy MOUSE SwEaTSHIRT: COMPOUND gaLLERy FaNNyPaCK: HERSCHEL SUPPLy CO. SwEaTSHORTS: CLU gOLD CHaIN: REIN jEwELRy SUNgLaSSES: FUNKyTOwN VINTagE SHOES: aLL CaPS
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HAT, SWEATPANTS: CAPITAL BRAND SUNGLASSES, JACKET: FUNKYTOWN VINTAGE necklaces, RING: STICKS & STONES SHOES: MOONSPOON SALOON OPPOSITE PAGE JACKET: CAPITAL BRAND GOLD chain: REIN JEWELERY NECKLACE, RINGS: STICKS & STONES JEANS: ACNE SHOES: ALL CAPS 18 // SOLESTRUCK PRESENTS FIRST TIME
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TOP: BELLE OF THE BRAWL SWEATPANTS: CLU SHOES: senso BUSTIER: COMPOUND GALLERY PANTS: BELLE OF THE BRAWL SHOES: ALL CAPS SOLESTRUCK Cassette TAPES: RANDI WHIPPLE 20 // SOLESTRUCK PRESENTS FIRST TIME
MODELS: KRISTI KAWAUCHI TIFFANY LUCKUCK HAIR/MAKEUP: RANDI WHIPPLE ASSISTANT STYLISTS: ANNA BRANCH SHELLEY BUCHE VOL. 1 : THE CONNECTED ISSUE // 21
BY KAYLA REKOFKE
First memory of music:
“I was just listening to music my parents played, Steely Dan, The Police, and The Beatles. Also from about ages 3-5 I was obsessed with Kiss. My friends and I would paint our faces and put on Kiss shows for the neighbors. Needless to say, some of the neighbor kids weren’t allowed to hang out with us.” First job:
“You’d never guess it from the outside but this old house [Jump Jump Music] is one of the best record stores in the country. Hiphop heads travel far and wide to get their hands on deep cuts and lost gems at this obscure spot. It’s here where Shines’ idol J Dilla became a regular customer. J Dilla is one of the most influential hip-hop artists in the industry, producing beats for the likes of A Tribe Called Quest, De La Soul, Busta Rhymes and Common. He eventually flew out to Portland just to get a firsthand tour of all the local record shops from Shines himself.
Since his first job at Northeast Portland record store Jump Jump Music, making personal recommendations for the likes of J Dilla, to touring the world as a producer, deejay and 1/3 of the cult hip-hop group Lifesavas, Rev. Shines has become one of Portland’s most iconic names in music. We talked about first times, his ever expanding record collection (topping off around 30,000+), and how music connects How music connects different groups of us while enjoying drinks and sunshine on the people: patio at industrial Southeast Portland watering “Those who are really into music want to hear hole Produce Row. I couldn’t help but notice something new. I like mixing old Brazilian what a positive and upbeat person he is, records with hiphop or house, but not and the wannabe astrologist in me had to everyone can relate to Too Short. People ask when his birthday is. Turns out, not only like the familiarity of mixing songs they know, are we both born under Aquarius, we even and Hip-hop is the nucleus of all genres share the same birthday, February 1st. It was combined. I remember going to the hip hop then I knew our cosmic encounter was not side when I was eight years old. I realized by mere coincidence. then: this is my generation.”
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smoking pot for for the first time:
“Seventh grade. I remember thinking, ‘This is what it smells like?’” FIRST BIG BREAK:
Before being named one of the top 10 artists to watch by Rolling Stone in 2007, “We were four deep in a Mercury Trio driving 25 hours to shows. I joined Lifesavas in ‘98. ” ON LIFESAVAS:
The group is comprised of Vursatyl as MC, Jumbo as Producer/Emcee and Shines as DJ/Producer. WHAT HE WOULD BE IF HE WASN’T A DJ:
A drummer in Chaka Kahn’s touring band, or the music director for Quentin Tarantino’s films. All-time favorite track:
“Bonita Applebum” by A Tribe Called Quest. Best song to get the party started?
The Temptations’ “Aint Too Proud To Beg” “It’s absolutely timeless.” ON girls rocking crazy ass shoes:
“I like that shit- I appreciate girls who take chances with fashion. Fashion is an expression of who you are.”
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BY ANNA BRANCH
When I first met Rachel Fish, we loved each other immediately. She reeks of intelligence and talent, with an unassuming nonchalance. And sheâ€™s hilarious.
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Fish is a graduate of the Oregon College of Arts and Craftsâ€™ Book Arts program, a somewhat obscure craft that is only offered by an elite group of schools across the country. Her most recent body of work instills compassion and explores the idea that we are all connected because we are human. Through an intricate process called pressure printing, Fish gives us an extracted look at the faces of strangers with the intent that we can see ourselves in them, too. I sat down with her to chat about her work and life in general.
so, what is pressure printing? Can you
Who are the people featured in your work?
explain a little bit about the process?
How did you find them?
Pressure printing uses any thin material to create different levels of pressure behind the sheet of paper you are printing on. People use a variety of materials, from string to glue to fabric. I use only paper. It has been used most often as a background element to be printed on top of because it has a very atmospheric quality. It also has a great capacity for fine detail and I began to use it as the primary element of the print while I was working on my thesis. With layers of paper I create small, varied thickness in the “pressure printing plate”, which creates value differences while printing, so that my print becomes like a value study. I love this technique for the naturally soft and ethereal quality it takes on. I think that it helps my work become more accessible to my viewer, which is a very important part of my concept. Fellow letterpress printers have also responded very positively to the different way I am using pressure printing and how much detail I am able to achieve with this technique.
The portraits that make up my thesis are from photos I took of friends and friends of friends around Portland. For my residency I knew I wanted to force myself out of my comfort zone and it was an important part of my concept for that project to meet and talk with strangers, as well as to represent a variety of diversity, both ethnic and lifestyle. When I arrived in Minneapolis I hit the streets with my camera and most people I approached were very open. Once I told them about my project they seemed excited to be involved and eager to talk. Minneapolis is also my hometown so a few of my family and friends also appear.
We really love the message behind your thesis and residency projects. Tell us more
You must have some great stories about your subjects. Any special characters and/ or tidbits that particularly touched you?
It is hard to narrow down because I feel like each person I spoke to had a interesting and unique way of contributing to this idea of community and connection, from the homeless guy who sold spoken word poems to my friends who live off the parkway with their dog. But I will choose a couple to highlight.
about what inspired you.
Sometimes making art feels a lot introverted and a little egocentric to me. This is why I am interested in making work that is of a sociopolitical nature. But I also felt uncomfortable using my work as tool to preach about my personal beliefs. I mean who am I to preach? I am no Gandhi. These feelings led me to the idea that if I could find a way to increase my own compassion and use my work to share that experience with the viewer, that could inspire compassionate thought and conversation. This is what led me to my thesis work, which is meant to articulate the concept of interconnection in a way that inspires compassion. The project I competed at my residency at Minnesota Center for Book Arts in Minneapolis was born out of the unfinished business of my thesis work. It takes the concept of interconnection and makes it even more personal, speaking to community, identity and the importance of the individual as part of the whole. It boils down to a belief that all people have value and are, just by their nature, an important contribution to the larger community.
A line of the text is directly inspired by a conversation I had with a flamboyantly dressed man in front of the Midtown Global Market. He was happy to pose (and pose he did with his walking stick, cigarette and briefcase) for several photos as well as share his philosophy for living a happy and productive life, which boiled down to considering your next mood- not move mind you, mood. You cannot control what cards you are dealt in life, he told me, all you have control over is how you respond and most of that is based on your attitude.
disbelief on small children’s faces. Any new projects in the works?
A while ago there was a story in Street Roots about Portland’s Right to Dream homeless camp, and since Reading it has been on my mind to do a similar project with the community there. I see this project as being much more narrative, in which the participants would have the opportunity to share personal stories. I would also like to continue expanding my prints, adding more landscape and other psychical features. I am working with ideas and concepts for a set of boxes I plan to make which are of a much more personal nature, though it is my belief that most human experience is related on the level of shared human emotion. The boxes will be dark on the exterior with brightly colored interiors that can only be viewed through a small eye hole. I am still working on the content but it will be a visual narrative that deals with my personal experiences. What are you obsessed with right now?
Layers. Conceptually and visually. In my art and my dress. Layering has actually become an important concept and visual element in my work. I add translucency in my inks when printing as well as use translucent materials, such as the tracing paper used in Here (the book from my residency). I feel that this visual element helps to push the idea of interconnection, the layers of visual information are literally overlapping and intermingling. This is also a very important element of the take-away print from my thesis.
Another story really exemplifies community involvement. I was able to accompany my brother and his kung fu teacher to their Minnesota State Fair Lion Dance Troupe performance. I think that this speaks to positive community connection because it teaches tolerance and understanding of minority cultures in such an accessible way because it is fun and joyous in its nature. I was able to carry a flag in the parade with the lion dances and it was easily the hit of the parade. The best part was the absolute VOL. 1 : THE CONNECTED ISSUE // 25
JUMPSUIT: ESQUE BY LESLIE PENNEL MESH TOP: YO VINTAGE! OPPOSITE PAGE BUSTIER, JACKET: LAURA ANDERSON
Photographed by Brendan Coughlin Styled by Anna Branch and Melissa LaChance
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BODYSUIT: COURTNEY BELANGER SHOES: KTZ 28 // SOLESTRUCK PRESENTS FIRST TIME
JACKET: YO VINTAGE! SKIRT: BACKTALK VOL. 1 : THE CONNECTED ISSUE // 29
BUSTIER, JACKET: LAURA ANDERSON SKIRT: ESQUE BY LESLIE PENNEL SHOES: JEFFREY CAMpBELL opposite page MESH TOP: YO VINTAGE! JUMPSUIT: ESQUE BY LESLIE PENNEL
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SHOES: MOONSPOON SALOON X BUFFALO OPPOSITE PAGE BODYSUIT: LAURA ANDERSON HEADDRESS: RANDI WHIPPLE 34 // SOLESTRUCK PRESENTS FIRST TIME
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JACKET: COURTNEY BELANGER SHOES: FINSK OPPOSITE PAGE BODYSUIT: COURTNEY BELANGER
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TOP: ESQUE BY LESLIE PENNEL OPPOSITE PAGE BODYSUIT: LAURA ANDERSON HEADDRESS: RANDI WHIPPLE
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OPPOSITE PAGE SKIRT: ESQUE BY LESLIE PENNEL
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model: kate goodling ASSISTANT: SHELLEY BUCHE HAIR & MAKEUP: RANDI WHIPPLE
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Women’s Apparel and Designer Studio • 415 SW 13th Avenue Portland, Oregon • isaachers.com
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ERXWLTXHVÃ„JDOOHULHVÃ„EDUVÃ„UHFRUGVWRUHV UHVWDXUDQWVÃ„KRWHOVÃ„GHVLJQVKRSVÃ„VDORQV PDNLQJWKLVFRUQHURI3RUWODQGWKDWPXFKEHWWHU
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Dinner with Jeffree Star By Ty McBride Photographed by Nicholas Wilson
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and supporter. He loves an oversized mondo-platform sneaker as much as we do—and our similar approaches to social media made us natural besties after he was introduced to the site by friend and personal tattoo artist Kat Von D. During our conversation, Jeffree went on to tell me about his upcoming album. His new release, which is being handled by Akon and his people, was in its final stages of production as we spoke. Jeffree shares time between LA and Atlanta, the home of KONLIVE MUSIC, the label that in recent years has turned out works by and hyped major talents like Gaga, Nicki, and Ke$ha. When our talks turned to career, I saw a side of Jeffree peer out from behind the glitter dusted skin and neon eyebrows that initially I hadn’t anticipated. His speech became more pointed; slang and slighted jokes were dropped. I immediately The hum of windshield wipers combined with the misting rain understood that this self-starting internet sensation was far from created a lulled hush as dusk settled upon Portland, Oregon. Just leaving his final mark on the world. Quite the contrary--the music two blocks from the hotel, many thoughts raced through my head as and alternative pop icon was about to blow shit up on his own terms. I rounded the corner and walked down Stark Street. I was right on It became clear I was sitting across the table from Jeffree Star, Inc. time for my dinner date, but as I cinched up the belt on my trench Jeffree’s not only obsessed with shoes—he is also wildly crazy coat and pulled the collar up to guard my face from the ever-present about his fans. He spoke about his previous trips to Portland during PDX drizzle, I had a feeling that dinner and drinks with Jeffree Star his touring days with the WARPED TOUR. When I asked about his might hold its own surprises. fanbase, who is essentially a loyal and cult-like clan of supporters, I waited less than five minutes in the lobby before Mr. Star joined Jeffree explained that the turnout to his shows is amazingly repeat, me. The statuesque hotel guest exited the tiny elevator, then made hyper-loyal, and comprised of about 90% female fans, 8% baby gays his way across the tiled lobby floor. His mile-long legs and signature and older homosexuals (by older I mean 22-29), and a very small pink locks sat equally balanced on top of heel-less Jeffrey Campbell but very intrigued grouping of heterosexual dude-types. Jeffree towering wedges. Before me was someone I had emailed with for explained that his participation in the WARPED TOUR opened him years during my career, followed on Myspace, and been fascinated up to all sorts of fans, and that much like in his real life the averwith for as long as I could remember. It seemed our mutual love of age, straight, baseball cap-wielding, tribal tat-sporting guys’ guy is shoes, and perhaps a good YouTube, had finally brought us together. very, very intrigued by all things Jeffree. At concerts and 24 hours Our paths finally crossed. As he removed his gigantic sunglasses to a day on his site, Jeffree’s merch (which he designs himself) sells expose flawless skin, feline eyes, and makeup so perfect I thought across all spectrums, genders, and orientations of his growing it might have been liquid gold—we exchanged handshakes and a fanbase. It seems that this larger-than-life internet persona, known laugh, pleasantries and introductions. I felt my nervousness melt for over-the-top looks, flawless makeup, outlandish behavior, and away as I made a silent note in my brain that I was secretly attracted infectious dance tracks, is delivering something universal—he is to the deep and hyper-sexualized masculine voice that was simply delivering realness. Jeffree Star, regardless of how you feel speaking behind cotton-candy hued lips. I felt my crush grow more about him personally, is about to introduce the world to a new kind sincere as we popped literally next door for a quick snack and a of sensation. catch-up session. In a matter of minutes, and literally steps to the We finished dinner and split a dessert recommended by our server. restaurant, Jeffree Star already seemed like an old friend. My eyes watched as his tattooed fingers delivered several forkfulls As we crossed the packed eatery, and were led to our table by a hostess (who I assumed was an avid knitter and most likely an aspiring essayist) I felt eyes turn and heads nod as Jeffree trotted before me. He seemed unaffected if not unaware that for many people he was serving them up something hotter than this locally famous restaurant ever could. We took our seats in the balcony and made jokes about how easy and natural it felt looking down on everyone. We sat across from each other. Jeffree started with a soda, immediately asking the server for of dessert to his mouth. His delicate hands cradled the spoon as the dessert menu. We had been seated less than 30 seconds when tattooed images of a gun, a molar, an axe, ice cream, and a noose he turned to me and admitted … “Girl, I have a sweet tooth!” We danced across his knuckles. He caught me staring at them and laughed and settled into conversation as my eyes sat transfixed trying to jot down what they were, my pencil scribbling quickly as on the perfect ring of pink his lips left on the straw of his soda. He my eyes tracked his moving hands. He finished his last bite toasted me when my wine came; as our glasses clinked together, a of dessert and rattled off what each symbol stands for. The gun, drip of soda fell to the paper tablecloth and we started our interview. a Desert Eagle, symbolizes Jeffree’s love of guns and shooting. “I Jeffree has been a client of Solestruck for some time, an avid fan
I parked a few blocks away from the
Ace Hotel. As I stepped from the rental car and felt the cement slippery under
my boot, a slow trickle of Sunday
evening Portland traffic buzzed by on Burnside.
“It’s funny, people assume I was bullied and that school was some awful nightmare for me. Um, hello, I grew up in Orange County, California, not Arkansas. I ran that shit; I loved school.”
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FUR SHRUG: FUNKY TOWN vintage HEAD PIECE: AMANDA MCCARTY
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COAT: B. CALLA LQQKS PANTS: GENEVIEVE CLIFFORD
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shoot guns a lot. I love shooting.” I finished off the last bite of our dessert as Jeffree sat ready for the check. “Bowling and guns” I wrote down on my notepad, circling the words “WHAT THE FUCK?” next to them to remember my exact feeling when he explained his two favorite hobbies. Before the check came, I simply asked Jeffree what his inspiration was- not currently, not today, but what built him into the man that sat before me. In the short hour we had already been together, I saw a collected and savvy businessperson. I saw a comic genius and someone who, of course, loves a little shock value alongside a dessert or two. Without hesitation, he spoke up: “In the sixth grade I became obsessed with the Spice Girls. I can link my shoe and fashion obsessions and early direction to them. I love their largerthan-life persona.” Star spoke about his childhood as if it were that of any kid raised in Orange County—tossing in that busts of all the Spice Girls comprise the bulk of his tattooed back piece, which occupies nearly 80% of his slender frame. I took the chance to ask him about his childhood and what it must have been like growing up in Huntington Beach and Costa Mesa. He was quick to chime in. “It’s funny, people assume I was bullied and that school was some awful nightmare for me. Um, hello, I grew up in Orange County, California, not Arkansas. I ran that shit; I loved school.” He sat silent for a second. “In fact, ironically, it wasn’t until my career took off that I was really ever bullied; I am bullied more now than I ever was in school.” We talked about his persona and the craze he’s garnered from his YouTube videos. He was very casual and at ease when I asked him about his reputation on the internet. “Everyone has a Jeffree Star story. They know someone who knows someone who I met at a party. These stories get blown out of proportion and exaggerated.” I continued to write as Jeffree explained, “I think people assume I am, like, really turning it on for the camera, really giving a show. This is me, this is genuine, and not some gimmick.” The check came as my pencil was coming to a halt. neighboring tables sat transfixed in their Sunday evening conversaWe settled our tab, we made our way across the street to meet tions as I overheard the normal banter of, “Girl, no, I can’t. I can’t.” several of my colleagues for a post-dinner drink and some Sunday spilling from the surrounding patrons. They sat unaffected as Jeffree night shenanigans. When we met up with the Solestruck ladies, I held court with the ladies of Solestruck. It was a normal Sunday was happy to see they had dressed for the occasion. Looking up night out: shoe pics, Instagram, and a single bar patron stopped by from what I assumed was their first round of drinks, they resembled to ask Jeffree how he managed to walk in his runway-inspired and a small band of Olsen Twin-inspired mademoiselles of the night. towering heels. He hushed her and sent her on her way---giving just Jeffree introduced himself, and I saw him fall into the same very the right amount of Diva, which I am certain left her feeling like a relatable tone he had taken with me just several hours ago during million bucks. our initial interaction. Jeffree Star is a people person. After a pit stop at the Solestruck store for some late-night VIP shopWe met them at a table and I made my way to the bar. In slow and ping, we made our way across town for a few rounds of drinks, drawn-out speech, Jeffree let me know he wanted a Shirley several more Instagrams, and a few star-fueled moments at Stripper Temple—his eyes like giant pools of anime water. I ordered myself Karaoke. Lucite shoes turned upside down as a tattooed Portland an “adult beverage” and was surprised when the bartender asked babe slid slowly down a dirty brass pole, finishing in a handstand-for our IDs. I produced the documents and money for our libations -which of course then ended in full splits. Def Leppard blared from and the bartender was immediately embarrassed, realizing he the tiny speakers as a guy in a long black t-shirt gave the vocal had just asked for an ID from someone he had obviously seen on performance of his life. “I bet she’s a grad student,” I thought silently, YouTube a thousand times. I sat quietly as the girls quizzed Jeffree, as her titties bounced under the rotating disco inspired lighting and became at once drawn in by his shock-value inspired humor, effects. We scored a table in the corner and were joined by some his dark wit, semi-sharp tongue, and his calming sense of realness. I of Jeffree’s friends as I flirted tirelessly with the construction worker panned the bar to see if people seemed starstruck, or to even next to me. Eventually his wife grabbed his arm---and Jeffree notice that a six-foot-something man resembling a glamazon-inassured me that the guy was into it. The night wore on as power-anspired piece of candy was in their presence. The gays at them after power-anthem was performed by mediocre vocalists, as VOL. 1 : THE CONNECTED ISSUE // 49
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TRENCH: UNIF SWIMSUIT: BLACK MILK CLOTHING
ART DIRECTION: TY MCBRIDE STYLING: ANNA BRANCH STYLING ASSISTANT: MELISSA LACHANCE HAIR: RANDI WHIPPLE
exotic dancers who answered to oversexed stage monikers gyrated for the packed venue. Again, I was surprised at how normal Jeffree seemed. I am not sure what I expected, but he sat quietly sipping his Shirley Temple. The 20-something starlet sat quietly, updating the social media outlets for both he and his dogs, chiming in with perfectly timed quips and zingers. What I had initially imagined as some outlandish night of booze-fueled antics, from this internet star turned pop icon was turning into what most of my nights out in Portland end as---a great night out with friends in some dark bar’s corner, that I can only describe as “so Portland.” We left the bar and headed back to the west side. The night rained on and as we crossed one of Portland’s many bridges, I asked Jeffree if he needed anything or wanted to make any more stops before I dropped him back at the hotel. He paused, and then told me that he would die for several pieces of his newest obsession— the seasonal offering from Denny’s—their new peanut butter pie. After a brief consultation with Siri, we were off to the nearest Denny’s. The Solestruck ladies directed me from the backseat, as Jeffree sat bitch, DJing, answering texts and reminding me every two miles, he would DIE if he didn’t get this pie. I stepped on the gas as my front seat co-pilot kept insisting I watch the new Rhi-Rhi video on his iPad. We sped into the night—destination: PIE. The Denny’s was dimly lit and sparsely populated; I noticed that no music was playing as we made our way past the Carnival Claw vending machine to the register. We had phoned ahead to check on the availability of the pie, so I was surprised and annoyed as the 60-something cashier told me he was all out. I heard Jeffree sigh deeply from behind me. I turned around to find him and one of my Solestruck cohort’s midway through an Instagram photo shoot. Jeffree sat pressed against the glass of the Carnival Claw arcade game as his portrait was taken from across pink stuffed animals and smudged glass. I tried to let him down easy, alerting him to the fact
that he might be without his slice. Jeffree made his way to the register, and at this point we had been joined by Juanita, the night manager. Her sweet voice was charming, like that of an over-protective southern Mother or Grandma. I explained that we called ahead, while Jeffree kept letting the servers know he would DIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIEEEEEEEEEEEEE if he did not get his pie from over my shoulder. It was then as I bargained with Juanita for Jeffree’s second helping of dessert for that night, that I saw two terrified looking 14-year-old girls clutching their flip phones as Aeropostale hoodies lazily slipped off their shoulders. They sat transfixed and unable to move, as if they had just seen a unicorn. “Uhmahgawd are you the REAL Jeffree Star?” They sang in unison as the one on the left got visible tears with shock and awe. He let them know that he was in fact the real Jeffree Star, and this news produced from them a squeal as if they had won the lottery. As the girls flanked Jeffree for a quick photo op, Juanita returned with an unopened pie from the fridge. She seemed pleased with herself for saving the day. She waved off her co-worker and proceeded to present the dessert as a trophy. As she handed Jeffree his two slices she too seemed transfixed. The two teenagers were now back at their table texting their pictures to the webosphere, as Juanita looked at Jeffree and said ... “I only charged you for one slice---because sir, you are fabulous.”
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Photographed by Nicholas Wilson Styled by Shelley Buche
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JACKET: VINTAGE RAF SIMONS YO VINTAGE! SHOES: SUBSTITUTE
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SHORTS: ASOS SHOES: MINIMARKET
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bracelet: black sheeP and prodigal sons
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OVERALLS: YO VINTAGE! PIN: BURGER RECORDS
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SHOES: JIL SANDER
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TOP: TWO WEEKS PANTS: LOUISE GRAY FOR ASOS shoes: chloe sevigny for opening ceremony
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PANTS: AMERICAN APPAREL SHOES: SUBSTITUTE
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SUNGLASSES: KAREN WALKER SHOES: SEE BY CHLOE
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PANTS: AMERICAN APPAREL
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SHOES: CHLOE SEVIGNY FOR OPENING CEREMONY
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model: jennifer sullins hair: jami kenna makeup: terri reece assistant stylists: anna branch melissa lachance kayla rekofke 66 // SOLESTRUCK PRESENTS FIRST TIME
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BY ERIN FLESCH
Over a glass of wine (or three) with my mom one evening, the conversation turned to Facebook. As usual, she quizzed me on various trivial infractions that were taking place on the social networking behemoth, such as why I thought my sister hadn’t commented on that one picture she posted? I gave my usual, neutral half-shrug and proceeded to tug at the bottom of my brightly printed spandex leggings which prompted a “You know, I became a fan of that Black Milk company when you got those pants ... but that girl seems really full of herself.” me: “What girl?” her: “That girl that posts pictures of herself in all of the clothing constantly, saying stuff like, ‘Here’s how good I look first thing in the morning!’” me: “Oh. That’s not a girl. That’s James. He’s the dude that designs them. He just posts pictures and says funny, random shit.” her: “THATS A GUY?! But ... that makes no sense.” me: *shrug* And that is Black Milk in a nutshell. A company that for all intents and purposes doesn’t make any sense. A fashion brand that came out of nowhere and in the past
three years has become nothing short of a ... or something going up in flames.” phenomenon. Based in Australia (each Black Milk’s rapid expansion is certainly an garment is handmade locally, sweatshopanomaly in today’s global fashion economy. free--a noted point of pride for the company) Retail growth in Australia last year stood Black Milk was started by one guy with a at 1%. Concurrently Black Milk saw a bump half-broken sewing machine, questionable of 1000%, which begs the question: What technical skills, and a metre of spandex. makes them so special? According to James, it’s all about the love. “Fashion is often very ... divisive. It separates people. It marks individualism. We’re different - it’s about connecting and togetherness. Our customers don’t just have a passion for our clothes, they share Today Black Milk easily sells out of hundreds that passion with other girls.” And these girls of their spandex creations within minutes, aren’t just your typical fashion-obsessives. and enjoys a rabid social media community Appointed “Sharkies” after their ravenous in excess of 200,000 diehard fans, grow“nomming” would continuously overwhelm ing by the thousands each week. Each epic the Black Milk servers and crash the site release on their site brings thousands more upon each release of new garments, this who will wait obsessively for hours, straying legion of fans have taken on a life of their own. no further than striking distance from their A testament to the future of fashion branding computers for the chance to grab a coveted and the importance of real, tangible conpiece of Black Milk’s shiny, printed, tightersumer relationships, fashion houses should than-tight leggings, swimmies, catsuits, take note. “It’s a quiet revolution, so quiet and other gear. “Explode - well that is an that even most of the experts have missed interesting word.” says James Lillis, the man it,” muses Lillis. “There have been very few behind the spandex and the voice of their people who have looked over at what we infamous fb page. “It can refer to fast growth are doing and said, ‘Hey, wait a second - that
“Fashion is often very ... divisive. It separates people. It marks individualism. We’re different - it’s about connecting and togetherness.”
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is the future, right there!’ I think we’ll always be a little countercultural, so being an outlier is probably our destiny in this lifetime.” Now, playful meetups of the Sharkies are taking place on a global level. Stop by Black Milk’s Facebook page and you’ll see the evidence--a sea of Black Milk--pics of giant squads of girls wearing their favorite pieces, all brought together by nothing more than a mutual obsession with the brand. If they’re lucky, Lillis and his business partner Cameron, dubbed “Handsome Cam” (either by James or the girls themselves, it isn’t clear) will stop by to party and mingle with their adoring BM devotees. “I have no doubt that in the textbooks of 2056 they will look back on what we are doing right now and say, ‘That was something very different - and it changed things.’”
“I have no doubt that in the textbooks of 2056 they will look back on what we are doing right now and say, ‘That was something very different - and it changed things.’” follows up with, “I don’t think we’re like many other brands. We’re too weird.” Alas, it would be easy to dismiss the Black Milk crew and its offspring as a simple trend; a bit of fashion curiosity and a product of our current social media-centric culture. Only time will tell the full story of their stretchfabric-assisted impact but one thing is undeniable. From the underground, a new style cult has been born ... and the fashion world would be wise to watch their backs. Spandex is coming for them.
Lillis for his part isn’t taking anything too seriously. “There is a lot of pressure, but every job has that - and I just figure, I’m dressing girls, not digging ditches, so I’m grateful.” When talking about Black Milk’s force-of-hand expansion, it’s clear that normal corporate how-to’s aren’t playing a role. “The future will be fast and furious. The slings and arrows will be faster and sharper. The scary monsters will be bigger and badder. We’ve never been ones to play it safe, so I’m going to plunge on pinhead first and let the chips fall where they may.” Refreshingly cheeky and attitude-free, their product--body-hugging spandex--isn’t exactly high fashion. It’s streetwear with a sense of humor. A sartorial joke that, as it turns out, women worldwide want to be a part of. Famous for their galaxy prints, skeleton body suits, and one-off art reproductions, they’ve even inked a deal with the notoriously difficult LucasArts Films to produce a line of Star Wars-themed wears On Black Milk’s upcoming high-end line, in the next year. (We suggested the Sophia James: possibility that George Lucas was a secret “I guess I was at a point where I was spandex fan, but heard nothing back to confeeling that Black Milk was all go go go ... firm.) One thing’s for sure: entrepreneurial and I didn’t have time to really appreciate wannabes looking for a secret formula the craft of fashion. It is an attempt on my for e-commerce apparel success will find part to recapture a lot of what attracted no such recipe from Lillis. “I have no idea me to fashion in the first place. In the early how to run a business. I suck at most things days I would spend days trying to figure out you’re meant to be good at to succeed in some technical issue. I’d sit in bed thinking, business. I even suck at Facebook.” He ‘Okay, how can I make this look good?’ and 72 // SOLESTRUCK PRESENTS FIRST TIME
then once people started hearing about us and we were growing - I wouldn’t even have minutes. It just got put in the too-hard basket. Sophia James is about getting back to the craftsmanship of fashion. And also the drama - for want of a better word. With Black Milk I make clothes that I think will make girls look awesome. With Sophia James I imagine a story and dress the characters. It’s very ... theatrical.” What’s in a name:
“The shark thing was from a story I wrote for the front of the wesite when we first had to shut it down because we sold too much gear. It had to do with me feeling like I was getting attacked by a pack of sharks. The name Black Milk is from a song by Massive Attack ... so yeah, pretty much because it sounds cool!” A day in the life:
“I do a lot [designing] myself, and I have a team. I try to do as little as possible. Not because I’m lazy, it’s just that the other guys on the team are actually much better at making cool clothes than I am! A typical day for me involves drinking coffee, hanging out with Black Milk peeps, and posting pictures of girls on Facebook. It’s harder than it sounds.” What happens when you die:
“Black Milk legacy? That’s not really us. If I can dress girls in pretty clothes and not have to get a real job - high fives, I’m doing okay.”
Name: Pip Atkinson LOCATION: MILWAUKEE, WISCONSIN Brief Bio: This feisty, newly legal brunette enjoys watching early Spielberg films and eating chocolate off toned stomachs. Hailing from Australia, she’s just begging for some shrimp to be thrown on her barbie.
When I was fifteen I fell in love with my art teacher. Mr. Hill (I’d prefer not to use an alias as I’m hoping his current girlfriend sees this and realizes she is wrong for him) was covered in paint, rarely smiled, and seeped masculinity out of every genetically correct pore. At an Australian, all girls, Anglican, private boarding school I felt his very employment was scandalous. He offered to lend me his polaroid and brought in his collection of arty books for me to pour over ... the mutualism of our feelings was painfully obvious. Aside from drawing the Jaws movie poster obsessively throughout my adolescence, I hadn’t done much serious
art until I met him. I was attempting to impress the pants off him, so to speak. For the last three years, the residue of my fluttering heart has fuelled a passion for art. These days I spend lunchtime stealing checkout cards and pages of interest from library books. My collection of mutilated children’s books would make a grandmother weep, though no more than pink glittery Litas and suspender stockings parading around the baking aisle. Aside from being inspired by the godlike Mr. Hill, my influences range from the subtle beauty found in 70’s horror films to children dressed like David Bowie on tumblr. My art and
general disposition suffers considerably when not surrounded by reminders of the past, yellow lighting, and shoes. Through these pieces I was looking to explore dream profiles - profiles of people in a transformed, reflective, and abstract state. These collages represent the sensual dreamers among us. In all four pieces the coral-esque shapes are used to depict the rich sensations and feelings left by dreams, though often lacking distinctive subject; a presence without being clearly present.
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Name: Celia EDELL LOCATION: London, Ontario, Canada Bio: Meet
Celia, or better known as Ceedling. She’s the raddest babe around Ontario and has an eye for everything cool. Her popularity on Tumblr is “almost entirely dictated by the color of her hair”, but one thing that remains constant is her talent in photography. Whether it’s setting up impromptu photo shoots with her sister or documenting her trips to NYC, she pulls you in and takes you to another world; this is a gal you’d better keep your eye on.
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NAME: Sashiko YUEN LOCATION: Los Angeles, CA Bio: Meet
Sashiko, or her stage name, Wishcandy. At first glance, her art may give you a sweet tooth, but upon closer inspection, her pastel clad canvases reveal badass babes and themes such as masturbation and food love. I mean, how else would you imagine a girl licking up ice cream? Pop colors and dali-esque visuals meld together to create a piece of art you wonâ€™t be able to forget about and lucky for you, she has a print shop so you can hang it next to your Seth Bogart stalker wall. VOL. 1 : THE CONNECTED ISSUE // 89
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LINGERIE: R.A.W. TEXTILES
Photographed by Lavenda Memory Styled by Anna Branch and Melissa LaChance
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TOP: SAINT ELYNS SKIRT: ESQUE BY LESLIE PENNEL SHOES: ALL CAPS
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DRESS: ALICIA REINA SHOES: FINSK opposite page NECKLACE: VINTAGE, EDEN PORTLAND SHOES: MANDY COON X L.D. TUTTLE VOL. 1 : THE CONNECTED ISSUE // 103
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DRESS, SKIRT: LEILA SHAMS NECKLACE: SEAWORTHY SHOES: UNITED NUDE
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MODEL: MALENE JENSEN HAIR/MAKEUP: ABIBAT DUROSIMI ASSISTANT STYLISTS: SHELLEY BUCHE KAYLA REKOFKE 106 // SOLESTRUCK PRESENTS FIRST TIME
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Poems By Amelia Parkison Edelman She Sings Herself a Circus
Put on your show and I’ll sing it back into your skin where your pores make their space for longing-where your fingerprints press away my convictions and scarily stymie my sins. Put on your double-edged sword-swallower feats and each sentence you gulp down I will rewrite on my wrist until our bodies are a testament to the reality of this. Put on that tightrope-walk of yours and I’ll follow you straight to the sea, cataloguing each taste while you do your best to spread wax on this place, seal the air, blot belief, and silently sew up the rest. Put on your sand dune costume, your elemental disappearing act, and I’ll gather each grain in my shoe. While you shuttle yourself between centuries, shaping substance from that sand, I’ll pluck the remaining dusty glimmers from my shoelaces to spell out the black that blinks from the back of your hand. Put on your cloak of silences your secrets (and your cigarettes too) and I’ll dance myself into rebellion and still find my way back to you. 108 // SOLESTRUCK PRESENTS FIRST TIME
This morning smelled like Serbia that winter when we walked through laundry and the architectural carcasses of Belgrade buildings, ghost-sheets blown sideways, licking the air like cotton candle flames. Your names get mixed up when I tell the stories of the two times I traveled to Trg Slavija in the white-sun morning. Blasted-out barbed wire mattresses cackled at us from cars, mocking our accents and our bags of breadsticks, the mute altar offerings of that January Christmas Eve. We believed in every rough chant that echoed from the stone-cold church. This morning smelled like Serbia that springtime at the zoo when the free zebra roamed as fast as the faded-paint cars. I still have scars from falling on the road to Mala Moštanica, muscling through markets, picking through poppyseed cakes and underground cigarette smoke. The jokes you told were never funny, and if they were, they were mean. I erased them with my memory of the sparkling springtime Danube-or maybe it was January, or maybe it was you. This morning smelled like Serbia, some New York coal fires speaking Serbian and putting on a play for you and me to see. Then we would go back to the Belgrade Zoo and only one of you would reach across the zoo-moat to touch the trunk of the elephant. The other would fade away like a coal-fire mirage, like bumper-car paint, like open-door smoke that blows outside into the winter wind-or was it May? I can’t tell the poppyseeds from the coal dust anyway.
all shoes available at solestruck.com
Belanger, notjustalabel.com/courtneybelanger PAGE 37Jacket: Courtney
PAGE 15 Jacket: Funkytown Vintage, Top: Whit francesmay.com, Dede Dunga-
Belanger, notjustalabel.com/courtneybelanger PAGE 38 Top: Esque by Leslie
rees V2: Surface to Air, surfacetoair.com, Manalon Shark Tooth earring:
Pennel, esqueapparel.com PAGE 39 Bodysuit: Laura Anderson, notjustalabel.
Sticks & Stones, yeahwewood.com PAGE 16 Vintage mickey mouse sweater:
com/laura_anderson, Headdress: Randi Whipple, etsy.com/shop/Whipple-
Compound Gallery, compoundgallery.com, Fanny Pack: Herschel Supply
familyfarm PAGE 41 Skirt: Esque by Leslie Pennel, esqueapparel.com
Co., compoundgallery.com, Sweat shorts: Clu, francesmay.com, Gold chain: Rein Jewelry, reinjewelry.com, Vintage Sunglasses: Funkytown vintage, Dede
LET THEM EAT CAKE
Dungarees V2: Surface to Air, surfacetoair.com, Accessories: Rein Jewelry,
PAGE 47 Fur shrug: Funkytown Vintage, Head piece: Amanda McCarty
reinjewelry.com PAGE 18 Hat, sweatpants: Capital Brand thecapitalbrand.com,
PAGE 48 Coat: B. Calla LQQKS, bcallalooksproject.com, Leather pants: Gen-
Sunglasses, jacket: Funkytown Vintage, Necklace, ring: Sticks & Stones
evieve Clifford, genevieveclifford.com PAGE 51 Trench: Unif, unifclothing.com,
yeahwewood.com, PAGE 19 Jacket: Captital Brand, thecapitalbrand.com,
Swimsuit: Black Milk Clothing, blackmilkclothing.com
Gold necklace: Rein Jewelry, reinjewelry.com, Elk tooth necklace, rings: sticks & stones yeahwewood.com, Jeans: Acne, francesmay.com, PAGE 20
I WANNA BE FREE
Top: Belle of the Brawl houseofbotb.com, Sweatpants: Clu, francesmay.com,
PAGE 56 Jacket: Vintage Raf Simons, Yo Vintage! shopyovintage.com PAGE 57
Bustier, Compound Gallery, compoundgallery.com, Pants: Belle of the Brawl,
Shorts: Freddy, ASOS asos.com PAGE 59 Overalls: Yo Vintage! shopyovin-
houseofbotb.com, Solestruck cassette tape accessories: Randi Whipple etsy.
tage.com, Pin: Burger Records, burgerrecords.org PAGE 61 Top: Two Weeks,
Pixiemarket, pixiemarket.com, Pants: Louise Gray for ASOS, asos.com PAGE 62 Pants: American Apparel, americanapparel.net PAGE 63 Sunglasses:
Karen Walker, karenwalker.com PAGE 64 Pants: American Apparel,
PAGE 26 Jumpsuit: Esque by Leslie Pennel esqueapparel.com, Mesh top: Yo
Vintage! shopyovintage.com, PAGE 27 Bustier, jacket: Laura Anderson notjustalabel.com/laura_anderson, PAGE 28 Bodysuit, Courtney Belanger,
WHEREâ€™S YOUR HEAD AT?
notjustalabel.com/courtneybelanger PAGE 29 Jacket: Yo Vintage! shopy-
PAGE 98 Lingerie: R.A.W. Textiles, rawtextiles.com PAGE 100 Top: Saint Elyns,
ovintage.com, Skirt: BackTalk backtalkpdx.com PAGE 30 Bustier, jacket:
saintelyns.com, Skirt: Esque by Leslie Pennel, esqueapparel.com PAGE 102
Laura Anderson, notjustalabel.com/laura_anderson, Skirt: Esque by Leslie
Necklace: Eden, edenportland.com PAGE 103 Dress: Alicia Reina, alicia-
Pennel, esqueapparel.com PAGE 31 Mesh Top: Yo Vintage! shopyovintage.
reina.com PAGE 104 Dress, skirt: Leila Shams, leilashams.com, Necklace:
com, Jumpsuit: Esque by Leslie Pennel, esqueapparel.com PAGE 35 Bodysuit:
Seaworthy, marisa-howard.blogspot.com PAGE 106 Lingerie, R.A.W. Textiles,
Laura Anderson, notjustalabel.com/laura_anderson, Headdress: Randi
Whipple, etsy.com/shop/Whipplefamilyfarm PAGE 36 Bodysuit: Courtney
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First Time is a bi-annual zine produced locally in Portland, Oregon by Solestruck. Conceived as an aperture for our creative collective, this inaugural issue contains inspiration, fashion, dreamscapes, and editorials created by the employees of Solestruck, and features submissions from artists and photographers around the world. This is our new obsession. Welcome to our First Time. www.solestruck.com. 112 // SOLESTRUCK PRESENTS FIRST TIME
PHOTOGRAPHER: Jesse Champlin CASSETTE TAPE MADE BY: Randi Whipple