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SoCal magazine 1


INTRODUCING THE FIRST

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table des matières

spring

southern california’s culture portal

Ars Gratia Artis Front

Hair in the Hood Local barbers Find Dining New restaurants Art Talk Interview with David Fahey Veneer Beverly Hills plastic surgeon reveals all! Odd Jobs Props and YouTube make interesting companions Life In Hollywood Costumer Trish Summerville pins it down

Middle Franz Szony Inside the world of LA's best art photographer Ria Lewerke Album cover design makes a comeback B. Hunter Designer turned motivation speaker Michale Ngo Emerging fashion designer Water LA's most (once) needed resource for youthful skin Guy Guide Manscaping explained... finally. Gifted Love with your heart, give with these hot items KTOWN Produce section of Asian markets Chris Francis designer of the shoe as art Ed Freeman Photo essay—homeless in Los Angeles

62

Back Wanderlust Italy's five islands are calling Gone And we may never come back

Cover

"Dita Martini Pin-Up" by Franz Szony Dita Von Teese, posed in her famous martini glass. www.franzszony.com SoCal magazine 5


FRONT

THE TALENT

contributors JARED RUBIN

RACHEL JEFFARI

A graduate of the Arts and design Institute in Israel, Rachel moved to Los-Angeles in 1990 to open a maternity portraits studio in Encino. Her work was featured on NBC, TLC, LA Times and The British Sun, to name a few, and her clientele included many top Hollywood celebrities. 1n 2009 she turned her lens to fashion photography contributing to the editorial pages of L’officiel, Genlux, Beauty Launchpad, Jute and more. Her clients include JBeverlyHills, Galia Lahav, loyal Mission, McKay Stewart, Dream Seekers production, and LA Fashion week, to name a few. Rachel resides in LA with her husband, three children and a Russian Blue cat.

IRVIN RIVERA

Irvin Rivera moved from the Philippines to the United States and photography quickly became his guiding star. His photographs are fragments, frames, intros, chapters, and possible endings to the stories that he wishes to share. Most of Rivera’s photography works are products of his ideas, his dreams and his collaborations with various industry creatives (make-up artists, hairstylists, wardrobe stylists, set designers, photographers, etc). Rivera has worked with notable stars like Kobe Bryant, Jojo, Shaun Ross, Chantelle Winnie, Mark Kanemura and has been continuously swimming and exploring the clusters of starmakers and clients such as FORD, NEXT, WILHELMINA, PHOTOGENICS, Italian Vogue, Zink Magazine, etc. graphicsmetropolis.com

JENNIFER BLUE

Jennifer Blue is an artist, her preferred medium is photography. The bulk of her interpretive work currently concentrates on portraiture and documentary narratives. She resides in Los Angeles.

Jared was born and raised in NJ. Thanks to his father teaching him about wildlife and nature at a young age, Jared was always fascinated with the world around him. That love and appreciation compelled him to volunteer as an EMT at the age of 16. Dealing with life and death on a daily basis taught him how to appreciate life and really engage with people from all walks of life. These life experiences have molded him into the photographer he is today. www.jaredrubinphotography. com.

Born and raised in Los Angeles, John has done a variety of commercial work over the years including fashion, nonprofit, product and automotive. However his favorite has always been portraiture. He is now also working with moving images and enjoying creating video portraits. www.skalickyphoto.com.

JOSEPH ADIVARI

WILL MERCER

Will Mercer hails from Indiana and is now a lifestyle photographer based out of Los Angeles.

KATIE NARTONIS

Founder of The Nartonis Project, is a curator, filmmaker, and 20th century design specialist with over 15 years experience in the auction field. Currently curating the Jack Rogers Hopkins show, and most recently Consignment Director, 20th Century Design at Heritage Auctions Beverly Hills, Nartonis has worked at Bonhams' 20th Century Decorative Art Department and Los Angeles Modern Auctions. She is passionate about the work of post-war California studio artists and craftsmen and founded the Bonhams Design Lecture series in 2008, of which the inaugural Sam Maloof and Otto Heino event prompted praise from Los Angeles Magazine, "Bonhams and Butterfields brings together two West Coast giants...the design equivalent of a Rolling Stones Concert." Previous to her auction career, she worked in film and television, including the Academy Award winning short film, "The Accountant."

MATT MITCHELL

Adivari seeks nothing more than inspiration in hopes only to inspire those who appreciate his GREG GORMAN art. The alluring and unreality of Greg Gorman is an acclaimed life are moments that capture his American portrait photographer, eye and are what he believes to born in Kansas City, Missouri be ‘perfect’. A not so millennial in 1949. The artist is notorious 25 year old from Long Beach for photographing almost every California thriving to live by his Hollywood celebrity under the sun. art, beauty, and love. Michael Jackson, Sophia Loren, Johnny Depp and Michael Jordan are just some of the names he worked with. His photographs have been published in Vogue, GQ, Esquire, Rolling Stone, Vanity Fair, Time and the London Sunday Times. For me a photograph is most successful when it doesn’t answer all the questions and it leaves something to be desired, says Gorman about his work. gormanphotography.com

Matthew Mitchell is a Los Angeles based photographer/director (art and video). Mitchell's stylish yet effortless image of such beauties as Eva Longoria, Leighton Meister and AnnaLynne McCord have graced the covers and pages of magazines internationally. He background as former dancer and make-up artist serve him well when capturing more than the exterior of his subjects. “FUN, that what my shoots are about, FUN”. Its this kind of lightheartedness that lands Mitchell in front of the lens as an on-caner photographer for TV showslike Oprah, The Bachelor and How To Look Good Naked. When asked what is he working on next? Mitchell answers “I’m working on (his) pecs, biceps and (his) abs of steel.” 6

JOHN SKALICKY

SoCal magazine socalmag.com

JOHNNY BUZZERIO

Johnny Buzzerio is a Los Angeles based photographer, shooting creative portraits for the music and entertainment industries, working with celebrities like Katy Perry, David Bowie, Leonard Cohen, Justin Bieber and many more. www.johnnybuzzerio.com


s outhern california’s culture portal

Publisher Agency27 Editor-in-Chief | Creative Director Randy Dunbar Managing Editor Niki Smart Associate Editors Joshua Pinkay Katie Nartonis Heather Russell Grooming + Beauty Editor Gary Domasin Fish + Wildlife Editor Phil Miller Contributing Writers Darcy Cannon, Melanie Pecham, Nathaniel West, Raymond Chandler, Charles Bukowski, Joan Didion Contributing Photographers Greg Gorman, Randy Dunbar, Niki Smart, Jared Rubin, Franz Szony, Faria Raji, Johnny Buzzerio, John Skalicky, Irvin Rivera, Matt Mitchell, Will Mercer, Irvin Penn, Lysette Model, Eddie Pulido SoCal magazine Los Angeles, California

Marketing | info@socalmag.com Contact | info@socalmag.com Printed in the USA by MGX Spring Issue Š2017 by The Agency27.com a multimedia company All rights reserved. No part of this periodical may be reproduced in any form or by any means without prior written permission from SoCal magazine.

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SoCal magazine 7


FRONT

BEGIN AT THE BEGINNING

The Story of Us U

ltimately making a magazine is a process. A difficult process of many parts, editorial, art and advertising come together to form a picture, a congealed thought, a mission. That was on our minds as months ago we embarked upon this journey to create something hopefully unique in a world that has long lost its love with magazines. The fact is, we still feel that love —which is why we continued to build this magazine, one page at time. Each story arrives in a different way but the process remains the same: frame it, write it, photograph it. It is always about finding something of interest to both the reader and the magazine. We found art in Los Angeles of great interest in this issue. It was the intent of our last so-called "fashion magazine" experience to produce an art issue—for reasons we cannot reveal here, that never happened. But it is happening now, and the magazine you hold or are looking at, is the final result of a long process to fruition. Thee has been a certain pleasure in putting this issue together: the delightful Trish Summerville who entertained us with her stories about costume design in the movies. Working with longtime friend John Skalicky on images as we have done for what is now decades. Meeting new John's like Johnny Buzzerio who was a joy to work with as was subject Ria Lewerke in what proved to be a very fun photoshoot. It was long held that Franz Szony, master image maker would produce a cover, and that has finally happened. Always a pleasure to deal with, Franz revealed some facts we never knew (you must read the interview!). A long-time fan of

STAFF INFECTION from left to right: Jared Rubin, Randy Dunbar, Joshua Pinkay, Niki Smart, Natashia Miyazaki, Aiden Crow, Katie Nartonis and Phi Miller

photographer Irvin Rivera, who has this unique ability to dazzle with fresh images that jump off the page, it did not disappoint with his inspired images of two Los Angeles-based people of interest. As with any new magazine, the process reveals things heretofor unknown: we love interviews with interesting people. For example, for years we have attended the Thursday night openings at Fahey/ Klein on La Brea Avenue—little did we know until we interviewed Mr Fahey that he also took pictures and proved to be one of the most interesting people as subject. Lastly, we must thank some people, in fact, all the people who worked tirelessly on this magazine, either in spirit or in deed. Mostly though, this magazine is accomplished by the eternal effort of Ms. Niki Smart who saw it through from start to finish. Without her, I doubt this magazine would exist. It's a new year full of anticipation and worries. We hope to continue to find new and challenging ways to present stories about the people who make LA our most cherished home. Even as we finish this issue, so many story ideas arise calling out to be framed by this magical thing called a magazine.

randy dunbar E DI TOR - IN - C H IE F


UpDate TOO LATE FOR PRINT TOO NEW TO FORGET

PrankBar: DTLA There’s a new trick in town – and it’s one your taste buds and overall wellbeing is bound to enjoy – Prank. A new venue in DTLA owned by Dave Whitton (who formerly led the bar at Villain’s Tavern and the Sunset Marquis), and his siblings Jaime and Jonny Whitton; plus Tony Frere and Greg Schumann. This is one of the first restaurants in LA to have hemp infused dishes on their menu. This isn’t meant to get you high, it’s meant to

get you healthy. What are these secret key ingredients in the enhanced food menu items? Well, Prank currently use Terpene, a powerful anti-inflammatory, in their cocktails and ambrosias, and they plan to start infusing the food dishes too, in the very near future. For the interior, designer, Ricki Klein, admitted it was quite the challenge to accommodate all the requests that management had: two bars, spacious

bathrooms, an elevator, large kitchen, room for dancing - a lot to fit into a relatively small size. “It was like a game of Tetris” chuckles Klein. Some of the clever solutions Klein came up with to create the feel of more space was by having windows from floor to ceiling and then these glass windows fold into themselves accordion style - producing an instant indoor/ outdoor flow. There’s a walk-up bar where you can order drinks and food, and stand or sit or take-away, and with maximum seating including all outdoors and the mezzanine lounge being at around 236, you should find the perfect spot to enjoy. Either outside, feeling part of the hub of DTLA, or upstairs looking over the restaurant happenings. And since Prank is situated on Hope street just blocks from the Staple center, they are certain to get plenty merrymakers late into the night Menu items include: Kobe burger, kale salads, glazed carrots (so good), vegan nachos, blue corn cauliflower and organic spicy wings. On the cocktail menu there’s non-alcoholic kombucha: 30-day fermented mango, ginger, peach and coconut, plus other anti-inflammatory, immune building, energy boosting drinks. On the alcohol side, there’s a full bar with wine, beer and mixed drinks of which the Penicillin sounds interesting – Johnny Walker black, ginger root, Myrcene cannabis Terpene, honey, citrus and a float of Caol ila. Prank plans on having live music every day during a happy hour, but this is their initial Live Music schedule: Thurs - 5-8, Fri-Sat. 8-11, and Sun 12-3 Last but not least, there is also a phone booth in the restaurant that you can step inside and sing your heart out with the aid of a karaoke machine. Prank! PRANK prankbar.com 1100 South Hope Street Los Angeles, CA 90015 11am to 1am thurs, fri 10am to 1am sat 10am to 11pm sun


A Glamorous Ribbon Cutting Gabrielle Union, Larry Sims, and celebrity friends support the Ribbon Cutting event for GLAM Boutique Spa in Woodland Hills. GLAM is owned and operated by esthetician and entrepreneur, Lindsay Faulk through the support of ex-husband and former NFL player, Marshall Faulk. Additional celebrities in attendance were Darnell Kirkwood, Asia and Rodger Saffold, and Danielle Premone. GLAM Boutique Spa is a luxury day spa that provides sugaring, lash extensions, spray tans, brow services, and premium skincare products. Book an appointment at www.glamboutiquespa.com, located at 22749 Ventura Blvd., Woodland Hills, CA 91364.

She Rocks Awards Show 2017

T

he 20th of January 2017, a few hours prior to the nationwide Women’s March was a perfect date for the fifth year of the She Rocks Awards Show to pay homage to women in the music industry. Started by Laura Whitmore, founder of the Women’s International Music Network, this years award show, held during the NAMM show weekend at the Anaheim Convention center in the Hilton Pacific Ballroom, was a sold out event. Co-hosted by Christine Devine (Fox 11 news anchor) and Tish Ciravolo (founder of Daisy Rock Guitars), the show honored female role models in the music industry such as Ronnie Spector, Lita Ford, Shirley Manson, Karrie Keyes – founder of Soundgirls and sound engineer for Pearl Jam, Lisa Foxx – radio personality, and Esperanza Spalding, to name a few. Shirley Manson (front woman for Garbage) identified that usually she avoids female-only events because she wants everyone to play together and doesn’t like segregation of any kind. “But these are funny times and we’ve been sent some really unpleasant messages, so this year I want to stand up and say that these messages will not be tolerated.” And Karrie Keyes, being the only female on crew with Pearl Jam, related how the rest of the (male) crew immediately assumed that she’d cause drama. “I was probably one of the few that didn’t cause drama” she quipped. Amongst the presenters were Steve Vai and Lisa Loeb, while performances included a line-up of guest guitarists including Nili Brosh, Nita Strauss (guitarist for Alice Cooper), Gretchen Menn and of course the legendary, Lita Ford, who won the She Rocks Icon Award. Ford dedicated her award to her first band, The Runaways, and ended the evening with a rocking performance. Rock on ladies, rock on! —NIKI SMART Photos by Jesse Grant/Getty Images for NAMM


PASADENA’S FINEST HAIR SALON Salon Aguayo. Exclusive Stylists serving an Exclusive Clientele

Salon Aguayo invites you to enjoy a unique and award winning salon experience serviced by industry leaders in hair and makeup. At Salon Aguayo, we take pride in the relationships we form with our clients and we enjoy customizing our approach to your unique desires and needs. Whether it is hair or makeup, our staff is deeply committed to upholding the Aguayo Standard and making you look and feel the best that we can. Your enjoyment is our success, welcome to Salon Aguayo.

www.salonaguayo.com 626.791.9981


Luxury accessories in Los Angeles, with handbags at its heart.

www.hammitt.com


FRONT

MAKING PEOPLE BEAUTIFUL

Hair in the ‘hood SMALL SHOPS ARE TRENDING

Crop Salon

515 N. Ave 64 Los Angeles, CA 90042 323-344-7038 www.cropsalon.com

F Barber №. 508 Atwater Village

B

arber #508 is Frank Lara’s private barbershop set up in a converted garage in his backyard in Atwater Village. Here he offers haircuts, hot shaves, beard trims and man scaping (back of the neck and backs). Frank has a passion for beards and shaving. “I like beards” he laughs, tugging on his own fabulous beard. What can you expect at Barber #508? Well, Frank tells me, “What I do with my clients is an experience.” For a hot shave, Frank lays his client back and conditions their face and beard with oils and massages the back of their neck and shoulders. Next comes a hot lather and a relaxing hot towel draped over the face, allowing time to absorb the oils and great smelling products – eucalyptus being a favorite. An additional hot towel to clean off, then a wet shave with a straight razor. By now the skin is moist and easy to shave and Frank holds the blade at a steady 32-degree angle – so you don’t have to worry about cuts or scraped skin. He uses cleansers and astringent to close the pores, and a light finishing massage on temples and forehead. A spritz of 14

replenishing mist and by now you feel like a million bucks. It’s a pampering session for men that sees most clients coming back every week. They tell Frank: “now I know why my wife loves spas/salons/hairdressers.” Frank’s been barbering for 5 years and operating Barber #508 since 2013. His clientele is generated solely by “word of mouth”, and obviously he’s doing something right because Frank is booked every day. One of his client’s (Paul Lester of The Agency) was recently named Mr. Modern Man of LA by Angeleno Magazine, with a shout out for: grooming by Barber #508. After many years working in Social Services, Frank enrolled in barber school and got his license, (while still working full time). 508 was Frank’s student and locker number, and Frank got used to identifying himself with this number. Now he has it tattooed on his arm. Barber #508 is open from 6- 10pm every weekday and all day on the weekends (And Frank still works fulltime in social services) Please email: 508barber@gmail.com for an appointment.

SoCal magazine socalmag.com

or those of you who haven’t discovered it yet, Highland Park has a thriving, vibey, hip thang going on. Coffee shops, restaurants, flower shops, art galleries, trendy York Ave, and a super cool hair salon called Crop. After losing both parents to cancer and battling an illness of her own, Crop owner, Deborah Kantner, became more aware of the environment and changed her lifestyle to a holistic, natural, and sustainable way of living. With Crop, she wanted to create an environment that was safe from chemicals for both her clients and her staff. Ergo, Crop is Vegan-friendly and uses organic products that are not tested on animals. Deborah calls Crop, “a place to come and heal your hair in an eco-conscious setting.” This cute little hairdressing salon started out as a single chair but now boasts 3 other (super-talented!) stylists. Crop Salon offers cuts & styling, coloring, and waxing. The prices are affordable, the service is excellent, the products are healthful and what makes it extra fun is that you can order in healthy organic food and drinks from AMARA Kitchen right next door – and you may get to hang out with Newman – an adorable boxer. Newman belongs to Danielle Harris, one of the talented stylists who has been working at Crop Salon for a year now. “I love making people feel good and aim to make people fall in love with their own hair.” Danielle’s specialties include balayage, blow-outs, dry styling and (very importantly) communicating with her customers to get them the exact cut and style they want. Blessed with a head of bouncy curls, Danielle, of course, also considers herself an expert


WORKING together

SETS US APART with curly-hair. Other crew members include Erin Will, whose specialties include balayage, precision cuts, creative color, men’s cuts& styling, and Anthony Crane, who is passionate about hair and makeup, and offers brow consultations. Oh, and once your hair is done, you can have a photo taken against the colorful mural outside, and you may be added to Crop’s Instagram page.

Our Favorite Cuts SHORTY'S BARBER SHOP 755 N. Fairfax Avenue West Hollywood – (323) 297-0554 SWEENEY TODD’S BARBER SHOP 4639 Hollywood Blvd. (323) 667-9690 MANILA PHILIPPINE BARBER SHOP 4802 Santa Monica Blvd (323) 661-7302 BOLDT BARBERS Downtown Los Angeles 460 S. Spring St, Los Angeles CA 90013 213 232 4715 THE WORLD FAMOUS VENICE BARBER SHOP 1527 Pacific Ave Venice Beach, CA 90291 (310) 686-2427 RIVIERA BARBER SHOP /SHAVE PARLOR 310 Vista Del Mar, Redondo Beach, CA 90277 (310) 375-0980

SETS US APART 833 S Spring St, Floor 4, Los Angeles, CA 90014 www.ctrlcollective.com i (213) 239-0086


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FRONT

FIND DINING

BY JOSHUA PINKAY • PHOTOGRAPHED BY LAMONT "TORY" STAPLETON

The Requisite Restaurant Reviews CatchLA

8715 Melrose Ave, West Hollywood, CA 90069 (323) 347-6060

T

he esteemed CATCH restaurant has finally made its permanent mark on the West Coast as it introduced its latest addition to the EMM Group’s hospitality enterprise. Welcome to CATCH LA, a true gem settled atop a magnificent rooftop view right in the middle of West Hollywood. Upon exiting the elevator to reach the restaurant level, you immediately walk into a gorgeous floral walkway that gives the essence of a secret garden. This was intentional, as CATCH LA has the advantage of being able to use year-round flowers in its scheme as opposed to its New York predecessor. Assistant General Manager, Anderson Clark, says, “As a restaurant, CATCH LA isn’t traditional in any sense. Our goal is to offer something for everyone. We try to fuse flavor and presentation together which represents what CATCH is all about.” Celebrities have made note of this gem and have made appearances weekly. Some celebrity sightings include: Brie Larson, David Beckham, Tobey Maguire, Kylie Jenner, Bono, Christina Milian, Calvin Klein, Maria Shriver, Cindy Crawford, Michael Strahan, Larry David, Sylvester Stallone, Demi Lovato, Cuba Gooding Jr., John Mayer, Michael B. Jordan, and many more. But apart from the design, the truest stars of CATCH LA are its stellar menu items. Every dish is a star in itself and there’s no denying the exquisite preparation of each. Take for example the herb-roasted Branzino paired with creamy vegetable basmati; or the Scallop & Cauliflower made with pistachio and tamarind brown-butter; or even the Vegetable King Roll, made with king oyster mushroom, cashew, and spicy miso. Restaurant connoisseurs seeking to dine at CATCH LA are highly encouraged to make a reservation as the restaurant capacity is reached nightly. Bring your wallet! Visit catchrestaurants.com/catchla

Top: The very popular Vegetable King Roll, made with king oyster mushroom, cashew, and spicy miso

Bottlefish

11677 San Vicente Blvd. #200 Los Angeles, CA 310 954 9495

B

ottlefish is a new upmarket, Seafood-centic restaurant in Brentwood Gardens started by restaurant pioneers Rick Rosenfield and Larry Flax (founders of California Pizza Kitchen). The well-lit room enveloped in wine bottles has 88 seats inside and a further 36 seats in the climate-controlled outdoor patio, plus a lively bar area. It’s spacious, comfortable, and has a glass-enclosed kitchen to view some “chef” action. The innovative menu is chockfull of responsibly sourced seafood with everything from lobster rolls to smoked trout dip starters, sesame-crusted tuna, scallops, seabass ceviche and a whitefish Milanese. Bottlefish also boasts a raw bar with superb oysters, an extensive wine list, a craft beer collection and full bar service.

SoCal magazine 17


FRONT

ART TALK

BY KATIE NARTONIS • PHOTOGRAPHED BY GREG GORMAN

The Art of Photography

AN INTERVIEW WITH DAVID FAHEY OF FAHEY/KLEIN ART GALLERY

Fine art photography has been showcased at the Fahey/Klein Gallery since 1986. We sat down with curator and owner David Fahey to talk about photography and the state of the art in a digital age. KN: What gets you up and out of bed in the morning? The very minute I get up, I start reading the newspapers. When I get to the gallery, it’s already jamming. So you come in here, blink twice and it’s already 6:00pm. It’s that quick. It’s an intense, exciting, engaging operation. KN: It was lovely to watch you meeting with your team, and seeing how everyone works together at Fahey/Klein Gallery – that’s what’s keeps things fresh? Yes, it’s a small business, a family business. We like to involve everybody in every aspect of the gallery that way any one person is capable of stepping in and taking over. It’s a very democratic process - and it’s also a great laboratory if someone wants to learn about the art business. When I was in school there just wasn’t a lot of classes about how to run a gallery, or to work in a museum – or even instruction in the business of art. So I just learned it all from the beginning. And then on top of that, photography took a “back seat” to contemporary art, so you had to work a little extra harder. KN: What’s the first photograph that you remember discovering on your own? The first photograph that I purchased was an image of Martinique by André Kertész. It’s just a classic, rather abstract, mysterious picture. KN: Do you remember the circumstances of how you acquired it? It was something that I’d always loved and I initially couldn’t afford it - so I paid it off over a few months. It’s an image of a figure behind a frosted glass, and it’s a very geometric composition. I found it unusual, and with so many meanings that you could read into it. I was fascinated by it. KN: How did you get your first break in 18

the Art Business? I had an interest in music, so I photographed at the Troubadour, Shelly’s Manne-Hole, The Lighthouse, Concerts by the Sea – all the early clubs. In order to hear the music for free, I'd photograph the performers at night. I was in college, dropped out for a semester, got drafted, and went to Viet Nam. When I came back, I started college again. My undergraduate degree was in photo communications with an emphasis on photography. Pretty soon I was teaching “The History of Photography.” There is an organization called the Society for Photographic Educators, SPE. In those days, the people who came as guest speakers were folks like Gene Smith, Ansel Adams, Harry Callahan and other great photographers. They spoke and lectured, and I got to meet and know them. Back in 1975 there were hardly any galleries. And because I knew these artists, and had a relationship with them, I had a connection to that world. So when I started working at a gallery, I was able to connect with these same people and put together shows.

the photograph, and number two, to contribute to the attention the clothes are receiving. So, Martin Munkácsi went out into the street and photographed fashion, movement and activity at the beach, or in the city, wherever it might be. Richard Avedon also photographed in the streets of Paris and New York. Or someone like Irving Penn – his whole methodology was about the perfection you could achieve in the studio. That was his approach. Helmut Newton eroticized fashion photographs, and he eroticized just the general photograph. He created what I like to call these mininarratives. It might be one picture, one model in a scene that begins to start telling a story and then your imagination takes you someplace. The best fashion photographers create the need to look and linger on a photograph. Melvin Sokolsky photographed couture inside a bubble floating on the Seine. How do you not look at that and not get drawn into the photograph? How do you not then look at the clothes how can it not get your attention?

"The best fashion photographers create the need to look and linger on a photograph."

KN: Do art photographers make good fashion photographers? I would say, generally speaking, yes. Because the bring something else to the table. I think their output can be quirky, strange and fresh enough to grab attention. The most important thing is getting attention, and artists know how to do that. The best fashion photography can be as powerful as the best portraiture and landscape. The job of the fashion photographer is to make an interesting photograph that makes you look at the clothes, it’s pretty simple that way. And all those fashion photographers, all the best of them, try to do something a little different to make people look at, number one, at

SoCal magazine socalmag.com

KN: Who would you like to see come into the gallery? As an artist - or as a collector? Eli Broad is a major art collector in Los Angeles, and I’d love to have him be aware of who we are, and what we’re doing. I’d loved to have worked with Man Ray, of course. I did know his wife Juliet Man Ray very well, and his nephew Kevin White. I’ve shown Man Ray’s work and sold his pictures but I never got to meet him. KN: Your openings are packed, any secrets? We have very crowded openings (laughs)- It’s because the generation that’s living today really connects with photography – it’s a primal connection. It sort of speaks to the current popularity of contemporary photography, and even historical photography, for that matter.


SoCal magazine 19


David Fahey

photographer

Besides curating and hosting of some of the most significant gallery openings in Los Angeles, David Fahey has long maintained friendships with many of the photographers—in fact, he generally photographs each and every one at the time of the exhibit. Here are but a sample of those images of great photographers.

William Klein | Los Angeles, 1982 Sheila Metzner | NYC, 1986

Horst P. Horst | New York, 1989 Herb Ritts | Tokyo, 1990

Bert Stern | New York City, 1996

Helmut Newton | Paris, 1981

Rankin | Los Angeles, 2007 Arthur Elgort | Los Angeles, 2015

20 SoCal magazine socalmag.com


David Bailey | London, 1990

Albert Watson | Paris, 1994

Bruce Weber | Los Angeles, 2005

Helmut Newton | Chateau Marmont, Hollywood 1985

Peter Lindbergh | Vienna, Austria, 1996

Ellen von Unwerth | Los Angeles, 2011 Melvin Sokolsky | Los Angeles 2010

Helmut Newton and David Fahey | Cahors, France, c. 1996 SoCal magazine 21


FRONT

NEIGHBORHOOD

BY JOSHUA PINKAY • PHOTOGRAPHED BY ANISHA GIBBS

Lather it Up PASADENA SHOP PROVIDES A UNIQUE EXPERIENCE IN SKIN CARE

I

f you’ve ever appreciated all-natural products made with essential oils, you must absolutely visit a true gem in Southern California known as Lather. Right in the heart of Pasadena, CA is Lather’s flagship store and the largest store of the brand’s 5 locations nationwide. Lather was founded by Emilie Davidson Hoyt in 1999, and has grown her brand extensively ever since. She started off with simple olive oil soaps scented with essential oils and fragrances, but over time the brand now carries over 180 different products that span through wellness, hair, face, anti-aging, and body categories. When visiting the SoCal location in Pasadena, Lather likes to create an actual experience for its shoppers, particularly through their Lather Blending Bar. Customers get the opportunity to be educated on essential oils while creating their own customized products including a moisturizer, body wash, scented roll-on, or massage oil. You start with an unscented base product of your choosing, and pay per drop of any essential oil. There are about 40-50 different oils to choose from, and pricing varies on the rarity of the oil itself, as Lather is known for pioneering unique scents into their products like bamboo, yuzu, and mangosteen. As an added experience, Lather offers sampling sinks in store so that customers are able to try any product they want before they purchase. These products are certainly worthy of family use as the packaging was designed to be inclusive to anyone’s needs. Lather is not a beauty brand, but rather an overall skincare brand that utilizes the best tools to have great skin. Lather is located at 17 E Colorado Blvd, Pasadena, CA 91105. For store hours and product information, visit www.Lather.com 22 SoCal magazine socalmag.com

COCONUT FOAMING BODY SCRUB This unique scrub has a light foaming effect that both cleanses and exfoliates at the same time giving your body a radiant and refreshed feeling.


DTLA's first walk-up bar Inventive Pairings • Imperfect Mischief

1100 South Hope Street • Los Angeles, CA 90015 prankbar.com


FRONT

NEIGHBORHOOD

BY NIKI SMART • PHOTOGRAPHED BY KELLY BROWN

We Believe

THE NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF MUSIC MERCHANTS SHOW 2017

Founded in 1901, “NAMM” stands for the National Association of Music Merchants. With ever increasing popularity, this year, despite heavy rain and relentless traffic, there were close to 100k people in attendance. Each year, every type of musical instrument/gear/gadget/accoutrements are presented at the NAMM show, making it a smorgasbord of musical imagination. Not only are deals being made and new ideas being exposed, but there is also a plethora of performances, some by the top guys and gals in the music biz. With so much to see, hear, do and experience - here is my list of top moments for this year’s NAMM Show. Most Strange to Watch - The Music Room Virtual Instruments – Become a multi-instrumentalist in this new virtual world from Music Room. Perfect for in home use as it takes up less space and make less noise, plus it’s great fun to watch people don their virtual head gear and then let loose on an invisible drum kit.. Click below to see the virtual drum kit for yourself – less space and less noise than a regular drum kit. https://www.facebook.com/musicroomvr/videos/1142099092494208 Most Handy - The Umbrella Amp holder – this is to place a mic in front of your guitar amp. For years, musicians have had to have an extra mic stand – but not anymore. Made by the Wishbone Workshop, the umbrella amp holder is adjustable, durable, versatile, compact and lightweight. http://www.thewishboneworkshop.com Most Touching Moment - The Korg Soundroom hosted Jordan Rudess and Marc Bonilla on stage as they played Emerson, Lake & Palmer’s Tarkus as a tribute to their friend KEITH EMERSON. Seated in the front row was Emerson’s long standing girlfriend, Mari Kawaguchi. She teared up during the stunning performance and said “Keith would have loved the originality, creativity, virtuosity and the technical wizardry of this performance. He loved it when musicians took his music and made it their own.” Most Endurance – Picks by the Pound have been part of the NAMM show for 80 years – their business has been handed down from father to son, keeping it all the family. Their picks are made from all types of wood and even buffalo bone. http://www.picksbythepound.com Most Unexpected – I met people from all over the world that had flown in to be at NAMM. I met people from Germany, Australia, England and even from my home land, South Africa. I promised my fellow countrymen a shout out, so “yay” for Toms Music Shop in SA. http://www.toms.co.za Winner Most Delicate - Flute maker, James Hall crafts hand blown crystal flutes, piccolos, panpipes and even digeridoos – and finishes them with daintily painted flowers. They look and sound beautiful. http://www.hallflutes.com Most Fun - The She Rocks Awards Show was held at the Hilton Hotel in the Pacific Ballroom. Honoring women trail blazers in the music industry, this was a fun night of kick ass performances and empowering speeches. http://www.thewimn.com Most Awesome – Grayson Erhard was performing cover songs in the Hilton hotel lobby and had just finished a version of “Very Superstitious” when he spotted Stevie Wonder in the crowd. Grayson immediately apologized for messing up the lyrics and confessed he didn’t know the 2nd or 3rd verse very well. Well, Stevie Wonder told him, “play it again” and then Stevie climbed up on stage and sung it with Grayson, even whispering the words in his ear to get him through the verses. This is what every musician dreams of happening to them – so way to go, Stevie Wonder for being awesome. 24 SoCal magazine socalmag.com


Most Innovative A wearable metronome – The Soundbrenner Pulse is the metronome for the 21st century – the future of rhythm. Wearable, intelligent, and powered by vibrations and can be combined with the Soundbrenner app, allowing you to create and save complex rhythms, organize them into set lists, and even choose custom vibrations and LED colors. www.soundbrennerpulse.com

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FRONT

VENEER

BY NIKI SMART • PHOTOGRAPHED BY JARED RUBIN

Face Changer DR. PAYMAN SIMONI GIVES LA THE NIP/TUCK TREATMENT Beverly Hills plastic surgeon Payman Simoni, MD, brings a comprehensive expertise in cosmetic plastic surgery to his work, along with an impeccable record of professional achievement, patient satisfaction, and accomplishments as a researcher. Dr. Simoni speaks multiple languages, was a peace volunteer in Tel Aviv, Israel, and a consultant on the TV show Nip/Tuck. Dr. Simoni is also the surgeon you should visit if you are interested in “The facelift of the Future”. This hour-long procedure improves the laxity of jowls, cheeks and neck without the need for anesthesia. Dr. Simoni believes the risks of anesthesia can sometimes outweigh the benefits, and therefore modified this facial procedure to eliminate the need for anesthesia. What’s the best part about your job? I think of my job as art – it’s a marriage between art and science. I love my job. If someone would pay my bills, I would do it for free. What’s the scariest part about your job? The fact that you have people’s lives in your hands. What’s the worst part about your job? That one day I will have to retire. Do you ever have to cancel a surgery because you’re having an “off” day? I did five years in Medical school, and being in residency is like being in the army. You don’t have the luxury to have an off day – you just shake it off. When I first started at Med school, I couldn’t understand why they made it so difficult. You often have to stay up all night and you get no sleep, and then you keep going and still have to perform at your best standard. It’s grueling. But in those five years, you really learn your priorities. How long have you been practicing? I’ve had my own practice for 14 years, and I’ve been doing surgeries for 19 years.

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Made by Franz

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What advice would you give people who are considering plastic surgery? The main and most important advice that I give to my patients is to tell them to make sure they are having surgery for themselves and not for someone else. How do you keep up-to-date on procedures? I attend plastic surgery meetings once a year, and a medical journal club that selects current studies on a monthly basis. Since my practice is in Beverly Hills, I have to be on the cutting edge. Plastic surgery is a very competitive market, plus a very demanding market. I make sure to stay on top of the newest techniques and latest products. Anything else you’d like the readers to know? The truth is, there is no best plastic surgeon, but I feel there is a “most suitable” surgeon for everyone. It’s more about whom the patient feels comfortable with and whom the patient trusts. My expertise is the face. If my patients are looking for a procedure that I don’t perform, I’ll refer them to doctors I know. I have specialists for everything: hair implants, tummy-tuck, breast enhancement etc.

Dr. Simoni’s LA:

What is your favorite part of the city? My favorite part of the city is West Hollywood/ Beverly Hills area. Favorite Restaurant? My favorite restaurant "Shilo's Steakhouse". Where do plastic surgeons hang out? Plastic Surgeons usually hang out at trendy restaurants and bars. What book is on your nightstand? " Pilot's Handbook of Aeronautical Knowledge" Favorite portrayal of plastic surgery in movies, and your least favorite? Favorite portrayal of plastic surgery in movies "Nip Tuck", and my least favorite "Just go with it".

Answers to Reader's Questions: What can I do about crepey looking skin on my arms and legs? Is there any procedure for that? There are a lot of treatments out there, but none that are really effective. My skin is "thin". Is this a problem if I'm contemplating your Simoni mid-face lift? No, as we can combine the lift with skin treatments such as fractional co2 laser to make the skin healthier and fuller.

Have a question about plastic surgery? Ask Dr. Payman Simoni Email your questions to simoni@socalmag.com

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FRONT

ODD JOBS

BY NIKI SMART • PHOTOGRAPHED BY JOHN SKALICKY

Ted Smith: Making Hollywood Look Real T "EVIL TED" TALKS FOAM PROPS, CONVENTIONAL THINKING AND YOUTUBE he first thing I noticed about Ted Smith (AKA Evil Ted), were the thin scars that run from his elbow to wrist on both sides of his right forearm. Ted was hit by a car - an accident that broke his leg, cracked his spine, lost him a tooth, shattered his right forearm, and put him in a coma for seven days. While he was unconscious, the doctors wanted to amputate his crushed forearm, but his mother fought to save that arm. Thank goodness for Ted’s mother, because due to her insistence, the doctors rebuilt and reset Ted’s arm. Ted now has full use of both hands, which allows him to make the fabulous props that he does today. It’s almost poetic that someone who has built body parts for movies, has a body part that was built. Ted’s been making props professionally for 30 years, working on movies like: Titanic, Fifth Element, Hunger Games, Star Trek – and TV shows like The Walking Dead, Xena and Boardwalk Empire. His fun pieces include ‘Chili hot dogs’ that he made for the Muppet Movie, or the foam wedding cake that a narcoleptic stripper fell out of in an episode of Arrested Development. And Ted didn’t go to school; he simply started building, honed his skills and built up speed. He says: “If you want to make this your job, you have to love it – because it’s hard work and a lot of hours…and luckily, I love it!” With his own YouTube channel of instructional videos on how to make foam props, Ted explains: “Foam is my specialty. The main thing I teach people is how to make a pattern.” Really, Ted is a kid at heart and what he loves doing is sharing information with others who are as passionate as he is about costumes, props, dressing up and wearing masks.

How did the “evil” get into your name?

I had a roommate called Ted, and his family called us Ted A and Ted B – but I suggested good Ted and evil Ted – and I wanted to be Evil Ted. Then I went on tour with Rob Zombie and since there were 3 other Teds, my name of “Evil Ted” stuck.

What is your job title?

Fabricator – I make stuff – out of wood, plastic, metal – but I enjoy foam the most. I excel at foam. It’s my passion; my escape. I’m a tailor/seamstress for foam. The first video I ever posted was on how to make a foam helmet. And the video simply took off. Ergo, I started making videos and now I have over a hunderd thousand followers (and counting) on my youtube channel. I’ve also started

using Twitch, where I become a virtual teacher. www.Twitch.TV/eviltedsmith.com – On Twitch, I can stream live and answer questions in real time. It’s great for building a community - I always tell my viewers “if you’re building something, please share it”. My mission is to get people to build their own stuff.

What’s the coolest thing you’ve ever made?

Funny you say that, but it’s always the thing I’ve just finished working on – and then I’m onto the next one. So right now the coolest thing I’ve made is the armor for Vampire Hunter D, for the movie “Blood Lust”. I’m making his armor and streaming it live on Twitch – so people can watch as I build, and ask me questions.

Where do you get your materials?

You can get everything you need at a hardware store, like Home Depot. But I’m trying to have it so you can get your supplies anywhere. I endorse T&T Cosplace supplies and have them on my website – they have really good foam. Floor mats are great to build out of as they are textured on one side and smooth on the other.

Tell me more about the conventions you attend

I go to about 10 conventions a year including: Blizz Con, Epic Con, Comikaze, Anime Expo and Emerald City Con. There are conventions for animated games, heroes, movies, and costumes. And I dress up, as do most of the attendees. They make some really elaborate outfits and props. People can let lose behind a mask – it’s like Halloween every day; a form of relief or escape - a fun form of recreation.

Anything else you want our readers to know?

Now that I’ve started making foam props on my terms, this is the first time I can say I really enjoy what I’m doing. Hollywood beat the crap out of me. When I worked on films I’d be operating 15- 16 hours a day for months at a time, and the last thing I wanted to do when I got home was build something. I think Hollywood is like a hot girlfriend – yes, she’s gorgeous and thrilling, but she’s unreliable and you can’t trust her. As soon as the next best thing comes along, she’ll be gone.

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For more information: eviltedsmith.com


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L I F E I N H O L LY W O O D

Costume designer Trish Summerville is most famous for her costumes in The Hunger Games, The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo and the recent HBO hit, West World. Here she talks about her life in the movies, and her favorite tool.

Interview by NIKI SMART Photographed by JOHN SKALICKY

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ho is Trish Summerville? Well, Summerville’s the person who transformed a timid looking Rooney Mara into the intense, ballsagainst-the-wall combatant, Lisbeth Salander, for The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo in 2011. Next, Summerville went on to convert the somewhat clumsy Jennifer Lawrence into a sleek, beautifully composed, Katniss Everdeen. Who can forget the stunning scene of Katniss twirling in her flaming wedding dress in Catching Fire the second part of the Hunger Games Trilogy? Yes, Trish Summerville is a costume designer, but she is much more than that. With her finger on the pulse of what’s hot in materials, style, textures, and trend, Summerville seems to expand on their boundaries to delight her audience.

And it pays off. Summerville won a Costume Designers Guild Award for

Excellence in Costume Design for a Contemporary Film for The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo in 2011. She was named Costume Designer of the Year at the 2013 Style Awards, and won the Costume Designers Guild Award for Excellence in Costume Design for a Fantasy Film for Hunger Games: Catching Fire in 2013 Summerville has dressed a plethora of celebrities: Justin Timberlake, Pink, Janet Jackson, Juliette Lewis and Christina Aguilera to name a few, and has worked on editorials for Rolling Stone, Esquire, People, GQ, SPIN and more. Adding to Summerville’s body of film work, is Gone Girl and more recently she spent 6 months in South Africa for the upcoming film, The Dark Tower with Matthew McConaughey and Idris Elba (set to release in Feb 2017). On the TV side, Summerville has worked on Ray Donovan, and on HBO’s hit series,Westworld that premiered in October 2016. SoCal magazine was lucky enough to catch a sneak preview of Westworld and to have a chat with the gifted costume designer, Trish Summerville.

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interview

TRISH SUMMERVILLE

When did you know costume design was something you wanted to do? I started making clothes as a teenager- then went to FIDM with the idea of starting my own line of clothing. I didn’t know that costume design even existed. I got “in” assisting on music videos and that translated into commercials, and then on to film and TV.

are they in? I work closely with the production designer so that the characters I dress fit into the world designed for the set. Of course, things shift slightly once an actor is cast for the role. Quick side note – when Mara Rooney came on set for “The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo”, her favorite color was blush - now it’s black. (Trish laughs).

What is the hardest part of your job? Being on location. Yes, it’s wonderful to travel the world and to discover new cultures, and meet new people – but it’s hard to be away from home for months at a time. And finding material in a different country is a challenge. At home I know exactly where to go for what, but I struggle to find even thread and needles in some parts of the world. On the plus side, I find new things, well, and people that I want to bring home with me. I was just in South Africa for six months working on The Dark Tower. The seamstresses that I worked with were wonderful and I’m looking for work for them here is the US now.

What tool could you not LIVE without? Is it a journal, a pencil? What is essential for a costumer/stylist? The simplest one - the safety pin. Because I’m very hands-on, I use thousands of them. And the pantone color book is the universal tool for designers. Plus, of course, I need my computer and iPad.

3. Do you make a lot of the clothing yourself ? I design it, yes, and I’m very hands-on. I hand draped 12 people on the last show – and hand stitched everything. On Westworld we rented from Western Costumes for the background characters, but we made everything for the principal players – it’s called made to order (or MO).

Your claim to fame is the wedding dress from Hunger Games (you got the dress from Indonesian designer Tek Savario). Are you solicited by designers to put their clothes in the wardrobe? Yes, sometimes – and we definitely get product placement for films. We send a wish list to designers we want – or sometimes they send us a list of what they have available. For “Girl with the Dragon Tattoo”, H&M came to the director through SONY. After a few meetings, they brought images - just flat photos of clothing. So I designed the clothes and they made them. Thing is, they were in Sweden, so I’d Skype with the production team and FedEx them swatches. Then they’d FedEx back samples. I redesigned 5 pieces in 2 days – until we had a concise collection that everyone was happy with.

“From Westworld, I’d take Armistice - she’s super kick ass, and the tattoo on the side of her head is a serpent. I love that.”

In Westworld, how did you design for the past and the future and keep it cohesive? Well, in Westworld, because there are scenes set in the 1800s and scenes set in the future. I base my ideas on the environment the characters exist in. I worked very closely with production designer, Nathan Crawley. I went into his office every day to see what colors he was using on the sets, and then I went along with those colors. The colors were warmer in western world - yellows, reds, browns and then I’d make the prostitutes pop out - or the visitors. The future is colder – so I used more blue tone and kept it “icy”. Which outfit of the characters you’ve dressed would you choose for yourself (and why)? From Westworld, I’d take Armistice - she’s super kick ass, and the tattoo on side of her head is a serpent. I love that. Other than that, I’m really a mash up between Salander and Blumkvist. Having studied and researched clothing so extensively, what strikes you the most about the psychology behind what we choose to wear? Well, clothing is either for function or for fashion. I approach characters with that in mind. When I get a script we do a character break down. Who is this character? What’s their motivation? Who are they dressing for? We dig into their life - what income level are they, how worn in are their clothes, what temperature

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Is there a film that you’ve seen and said, “Damn, I wish I’d done that film”? “City of Lost children” – I love the coloration of the film and how it looks. Another movie would be “The HUNGER” with Susan Sarandon. I wish I’d been part of that.

I think it’s fascinating how you dig into the “mind” of the characters you dress. For example, Effie Trinket in the Hunger Games. You said, ”she’s teetering on shoes that are a bit too high, or her waist is cinched in a bit too tight. She’s not letting herself ever be fully comfortable. It’s kind of her own penance.” What did you find out about the main characters on Westworld when designing for them? Westworld is mind-bending stuff – the writers are extremely intelligent. The characters were a little tricky because the principal actors wear the same costume for the entire series. I had to design wardrobe with that in mind. Who is a trendsetter in your world? I love watching Iris Van Herpen – the technology and design in her clothing is truly phenomenal. She is otherworldly in what she does. I admire her from her textiles to her fabrication to the 3 dimensional work she comes up with. She is amazing.


Clockwise: 1. Westworld's - Ingrid Bolsø Berdal as Armistice 2. Westworld's -Evan Rachel Wood as Dolores Abernathy 3. The Huner Games Elizabeth Banks as Effie Trinket 4. The Huner Games - Jennifer Lawrence as Katniss Everdeen

trish summerville

The Dark Tower (2017) Westworld (TV Series) (1 episode) (2016) The Original (2016) Gone Girl (2014) The Hunger Games: Catching Fire (2013) Ray Donovan (TV Series) (1 episode) 2013 The Bag or the Bat (2013) Man and Woman (2012 ) The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo 2011 Going Back (Short -2010) The Dark Path Chronicles (TV Series -2008)

Christina Aguilera: Stripped Live in the UK (Video documentary) 2000 Christina Aguilera: My Reflection (TV Special documentary) 1999 Hijack 1999 Clubland

SoCal magazine 37


artist in residence

Franz Szony Creator of the photographic painting talks about the process of making images and music

Despite a name that would seem to conjure up Austrian composers, Franz Szony was born and raised in Reno, Nevada. Though he attended San Francisco’s Academy of Art, he makes LA home. His work itself is often misunderstood: is it photocollage, Photoshop, a painting? What is known is that they are extravagant, mysterious and sublimely beautiful. We asked Franz to reveal some of the secrets behind the images. Artists have been idealizing their work for thousands of Growing up in Reno, what informed your years. To ask any type of artist, whether it be a sculptor, photographic style? painter or photographer what is "real" and what isn't...well When I moved there with my family in the early thats just silly and against the nature of art altogether. 90's, Reno had several world-class stage productions Everything in my work is captured in-camera...and throughout the hotels. My father is in the casino everything has been retouched by my magic wand. Just business, so I had the privilege of seeing many of them... jump down the rabbit hole, some twenty or thirty times. question its legitimacy. I This was at a time when The camera is honestly just don't sketch all of my work prior to productions were "high budget, creating them as photographs, low-fi," nothing was digital, a paintbrush for me. however, when I'm creating everything was organic. Show photographs, I still think in terms of illustration. The themes were completely conceptual, costumes were at the level of couture, sets were painted by hand and music camera is honestly just a paintbrush for me. came from the orchestra pit. Reno will never see shows Who would you most like to to collaborate with? exist on this level again... and although the "showgirl" Is there a Szony film in the future? is becoming a concept of yesteryear, its philosophy will I have a great number of people that I hope to continuously show itself in my work. photograph throughout my life...and several that I have already gotten the opportunity to do so. The process How did you ultimately choose Los Angeles as the is not a race, the enjoyment is in the journey. Many of place for you to live and work? Think of all the incredible art, stories, glamour and the people I admire most have already left this planet... Lucille Ball, Marc Davis, Georges MÊliès, Geiger, Dali, beauty that has been created in Los Angeles over the last Da Vinci, Poe....If I want to photograph you, it's probably hundred years. If the theory is true...that a house built over an old cemetery will innately become haunted by because you have a spark of one of the greats. Although I've done work on smaller conceptual films, the energy...then I must believe that the grounds of Los I would like to create something full-length in the notAngeles are completely filled with the most beautiful of ghosts...and hopefully I'll become a bit haunted by them. so-distant future. Before film, there will be music. I'm currently working on a small conceptual album...there are How long do the photographic paintings usually certain things that just can't be expressed as well visually take? Is it one sitting many? Are things sketched as they can vocally, and I'm working on bringing those first? What is the process? sounds out of the woodworks.

Portraits by JOSEPH ADIVARI SoCal magazine 39


Familiars "Familiars" modeled by Shaun Ross. A fully photographic image with antique exotic taxidermy. A "familiar" was known in Medieval folklore as a super-natural being in the form of an animal that would assist witches and cunning folk on the practice of magic. Original measures 8' long. C-print, surface mounted.

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Merlin

DuBarry

"Merlin" modeled by Mathu Andersen. Known as the "wild man in the woods," Merlin was first mention in a Welsh manuscript of poems dating back to the year 1250. He was said to be the son of the devil, despite his mother being a nun. To this day, scholars are puzzled by this historical figure....I myself have always been fascinated by him. A fully photographic image, limited edition of three original 60" tall prints.

"Du Barry" modeled by Dita Von Teese. Inspired by the flamboyant historical figure Madame Du Barry, this image is completely photographic and was meticulously made with paint, paper, roses and Swarovski crystal. A limited edition of three original prints, measuring 60" tall.

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TH E ART OF TH E ALB U M COVE R

coverlady Meet Ria Lewerke, art director and designer of some of music's greatest hits

Think about a banana against a white background—sound familiar? Four guys crossing a street in London, one mysteriously barefoot - sound familiar? Of course it does, because we’re talking album cover art and those who created them. Los Angeles is home to many of the designers who created the iconic images that have moved from commercial art to that rarest of commodities, fine art. Initially albums or 78’s (rpm) or 33’s were sheathed with a thin paper wrapper that was called a sleeve. That all changed in 1938 when New York graphic artist Alex Steinweiss began creating what we today call album cover art. At some point every graphic designer wanted in the 12x12” game of album cover art. If Steinweiss provoked the culture to look deeper into the marketing of music, it was the 1967 Beatles Sgt. Peppers album cover designed by both the Beatles and Pop artist Peter Blake, that created what would be called concept cover art - and that pushed it even further. From there, an industry blossomed. Today with the resurgence of vinyl, we wanted to check in with one of those famous designers—Ria Lewerke, who has cast her talent on the likes of Prince, ELO, Matchbox 20, Tori Amos, Dave Matthews Band, Ozzy Ozbourne, and a host of others.

Ria arrives with a portfolio, yes, a portfolio which is a portable vinyl case for showing your work. Inside is a body of work that looks as relevant as the day it was created. We sat down to talk about music, the album and the state of design today. You got your start where? I was really interested in set design initially. I actually lived in New York City for 10 years during the late 80s and worked for RCA Records. Who was the easiest and most difficult artist to work with? Oh, I can't really answer that! What musical style do you personally like the most? I enjoy anything reggae! Any album covers you wish you had designed? Sure. The Rolling Stones, Sticky Fingers, all the Chicago covers—such great evolution of their logo being done again and again, but differently. The Beatles, David Bowie, all those fantastic album covers, there's so many to think about. How is the state of the album cover today? Artists today were raised with a Macintosh and can create the design themselves - and do! Only top artists like Beyonce have big photo sessions and a team marketing their work. And today, the number of albums is limited as everything gets recorded on devices that keep getting smaller. The CD is on the verge of extinction, and if you think about it, we went from 8-track tape to cassettes to jump drives that can now contain your entire audio library. Is design still alive and well? Yes, of course, there is design everywhere, though now it's mostly presented digitally. As an instructor of graphic design (at FIDM) do you have any advice for young designers? Look at design as it is eveywhere: on websites, newspapers, billboards and magazines.

INTERVIEW BY Randy Dunbar PHOTOGRAPHED BY Johnny Buzzerio AT AMOEBA RECORDS, LOS ANGELES

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Ria Lewerke Greastest Hits

Vinyl Heaven LA’s last remaining giant record store:

Amoeba Records

There was talk of Amoeba Records leaving Sunset Boulevard to be replaced by yet another glittering tower in late September. In a Twittered response, the indie retail giant informed the world: “We’re going to remain in our building for the duration of our lease — which is several years — Amoeba and the building owner are open to us potentially staying longer.” Amoeba Records first opened in 1991 in Berkley, followed by another store in 1997 in the Haight District in San Francisco. Then in November 2001, Angelinos began to enjoy the iconic Amoeba Record Store on Sunset Blvd in Hollywood. The Sunset Amoeba Records is amongst the largest in the world, the biggest in the USA, and it boasts the highest volume of sales worldwide. With their famous signage in front, this record store truly is the last-man-standing in a world where buying music has narrowed to hitting the download button. Amoeba stays in business partly due to the fact that they do consignment deals with musicians, and allow customers to bring in their old CDs or vinyl, and Amoeba buys them out right. With a few thousand people coming through the doors on a daily basis, there’s a lot going on in Amoeba. Plus, there are instore performances happening almost every day for local and traveling acts, and Amoeba Records has the capacity to fit about 800 people for a show. The bands usually perform around 6pm - a free event where you can meet the artists if you buy their latest album and have them sign it for you. The biggest acts Amoeba has had instore are Paul McCartney and PJ Harvey. Recently they tried something new, and hosted a huge fashion show with Stella McCartney. For this fashion show event, Amoeba rented out their entire store and reinvented the interior, erecting a large neon rainbow that stretched from counter to counter, and brought in pinball machines to use as platforms for the models to walk on. To top off the show, Pink, Brian Wilson, and the Hollywood Vampires performed (the Hollywood Vampires are Johnny Depp, Alice Cooper and Joe Perry). Go to amoeba.com to find out who is playing instore.

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Shop the BEST selection of MUSIC, MOVIES & MORE!

New / Used / Collectible: VINYL, CDs, DVDs, BLU-RAYs, POSTERS, BOOKS, T-SHIRTS • FREE LIVE SHOWS! BUY / SELL / TRADE A huge selection of TURNTABLES, SPEAKERS and AUDIO GEAR! AMOEBA MUSIC HOLLYWOOD 6400 SUNSET BLVD • (323) 245-6400

AMOEBA.COM • MON-SAT 10:30AM-11PM • SUN 11AM-10PM

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STYLEANDSUBSTANCE

P H O T O G R A P H E D

Photographer Irvin Rivera's portraits always reveal character—in this case a motivational speaker and fashion designer who prove that style can have substance

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B Y

I R V I N

R I V E R A

B. HUNTER

A graduate of FIDM, B. Hunter was bullied as a child and today fights back with a project entitled "Power Speaks Louder". PSL's mission statement: To empower and transform lives with the power of words. She has created coloring books and puzzles to promote PSL and visits local schools to facilitate motivational discussions that help students turn their failures into self-discovery.


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Michael Ngo is an emerging Los Angeles based fashion designer that was born and raised in San Jose, California. At a very early age, Michael was sketching on little paper dolls and would tell his family & friends that he was going to grow up to be a fashion designer. In his senior year of high school, he was voted as “Most Likely To Be Seen On A Runway” by his classmates and everyone knew him as stylish, artistic, and entertaining.

FASHION DESIGNER IN LOS ANGELES

MICHAEL NGO Interview by JOSHUA PINKAY Photography by IRVIN RIVERA Stylist: Tamira Wells Asst. Stylist: Giovanni Floresta

What is Michael Ngo looking forward to in 2017? I’m anxious to continue to create new things and expanding myself as a designer. I want to launch a capsule collection and venture out beyond the runway by getting the brand into stores. I’ve had so many celebrities wear my clothing in the past two years, but now I want to divert some attention to selling to the masses. What are your plans for fashion week? Will you present twice this year, or stick to one annual show? I would say for now that I am still up in the air about that. I’m certainly going to present a new collection for Fashion Week, but haven’t made a concrete decision on whether or not I’m presenting in two seasons. Is there anyone new that you’ve recently worked with or are about to work with? Well, the highlight of my 2016 was having Lady Gaga wear one of my runway pieces for an editorial in Vanity Fair Italia. I was so amazed and thankful, that I printed the image on a canvas and mounted it beside my bed as a reminder to constantly stay inspired. I also got to work with Jason Derulo, Bebe Rexha, Ellie Goulding, and so many others. 2017 has some unique opportunities for me, so for now, I’m just going to say, stay tuned. What’s your dream collaboration for 2017? I would love to do a fashion film and collaborate with some notable filmmakers and visionaries on a project. I want to explore digital media collaborations with my art, because I think there’s room there for me to grow as a designer and artist through those mediums.

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NGO GO Fashion by Michael Ngo Photographed by Irvin Rivera

Photographer: Irvin Rivera @graphicsmetropolis Asst Photographer: Phill Limprasertwong @phillldotcom Models: Amanda Smith @Photogenics Ricky Flowers Jr. @Models Direct Management Makeup: Joseph Adivari Hair: Cherry Petenbrink Stylist: Tamira Wells Asst. Stylist: Giovanni Floresta

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Jeans by AG, Dress by Anthony Franco, Belt by Ralph Lauren, Vintage fur coat, Boots by Guess

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Jeans by Guess, Belt by John Varvatos, Coat Vintage Tosh in Poncho by John Eshaya for JET jeans by Heirloom Hat by Goorin Bros.

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SKINCARE FOR THE ANGELINO

On average there are 284 days of sunshine in So Cal — that’s a lot of sun and a lot of wear and tear on the skin. Simple, home solutions can balance the equation. Seeing as approximately 70% of our body mass is made up of water (skin, tissues, cells and the organs) we need water for effective functioning of our bodies. So here’s the low down on H2O - Drinking an adequate amount of water every day is important for overall good health as water increases the metabolic rate and aids in digestion, circulation, absorption and even excretion. Water flushes toxins and waste products from the body thereby cleansing it, and without adequate water, the body is more prone to constipation, asthma, allergies, hypertension, migraines and various other health problems. Drinking enough water also combats skin disorders like psoriasis, wrinkles and eczema. Water increases blood flow to the skin, plumps it up, and makes the skin more elastic causing wrinkles and pores to be less visible. Our bodies further require water to help process all the nutrients from the foods we eat and to help convey the assimilated nutrients to the cells by circulating through the lymphatic system. So aim to give your skin a steady flow of water by drinking 5-7 cups every day. And drink throughout the day as opposed to chugging a huge amount all at once - your body can only absorb a certain amount per hour. Bear in mind that throughout the day we lose water through perspiration, urine, breath and bowel movements, so replenish, replenish, replenish. For soft and supple skin, drinking an adequate amount of water is as important as applying topical creams, but make sure you hydrate your skin from the inside out and the outside in. Moisturizing your skin both internally and externally is a critical combination for healthy, beautiful skin. 

By Gary Domasin Photographed by Rachel Jeraffi

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Makeup: Meghan Sanchez Model: Lily/Two Model Management Location in Toluca lake courtesy of the Bandini family.


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Water increases blood flow to the skin, plumps it up, and makes the skin more elastic causing wrinkles and pores to be less visibl

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Water increases blood flow to the skin, plumps it up, and makes the skin more elastic causing wrinkles and pores to be less visible.

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GUYGUIDE THE

EVERYTHING YOU COULD WANT TO KNOW AND MORE ABOUT THE GROOMING OF THE MALE ANIMAL

Young men are more fashion-forward than previous generations; they keep tabs on A-listers known for their longer locks and styles sculpted with plenty of product. BY GARY DOMASIN PHOTOGRAHED BY MATTHEW MITCHELL MODEL: DOMINIC DEROSA

M

en sometimes don't quite know how to "groom" themselves, but also don't feel comfortable asking for help. How to avoid razor rash, how to brush a beard, how to eliminate grey hair or tweeze eyebrows, how to manscape—we asked our expert and he revealed there is more to the story than anyone imagined.

Men’s shampoos focus on cleansing thoroughly getting rid of oils and grit, as well as, cleansing the hair from product build-up. A lot of men will wash their hair almost everyday because of the

Blondes may or may not have more fun, but

hair products that they use.

they definitely have more hair. Hair color helps

This calls for a shampoo

determine how dense the hair on your head is,

that will cleanse the hair

and blondes (only natural ones, of course), top the

thoroughly without overly

list. The average human head has 100,000 hair

drying the hair.

follicles, each of which is capable of producing 20

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individual hairs during a person's lifetime. Blondes average 146,000 follicles. People with black hair tend to have about 110,000 follicles, while those with brown hair are right on target with 100,000 follicles. Redheads have the least dense hair, averaging about 86,000 follicles.


MASKED MAN Of course you don’t use a facial mask. You’re not one of those guys, that “friend” or that “guy at work” who has a major ego and youthful, nonoily, energized skin. Who needs that over the top well groomed look? Not you. Yes, you! Doing a facial mask once a month can add major benefits to your appearance and to your income. It’s well-known that men who look great are often looked upon as successful and more likely to be remembered in a positive light. So if you’re looking to move up the corporate ladder, be sure to add a facial mask once a month to your personal care regime.

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How furry are you? Have you asked anyone if you should trim and he or she just looks up at you with a mouth full of hair? That could be a sign you have more hair than your average bear. In any case, we can all agree that shaving your entire body isn’t exactly practical. Manscaping is a personal preference and we can help you figure out which way to go. Facial hair is still popular and chances are if they like your beard or scruff they won’t be into an ultra-bare chest or anything else being bare for that matter. That’s not to say if you’re a clean-shaven dude you should match your face with a head-to-toe waxing. There are degrees to pruning and in some situations your body hair requires more attention. So if you need guidance on whether to go natural or to do some trimming, we’ve laid it out for you.

THE HAIR of A MAN

Eyebrows

Beard

Chest

Armpits

Pubes

The shape of the brow ridge and the brows themselves channel sweat, rain, and moisture away from your eyes so that your vision stays clear. Gentlemen, remember that your eyebrows are essential nonverbal communication tools. Scientists who study facial expressions say eyebrows are key to expressing happiness, surprise, and anger. Depending on how you groom your eyebrows you may be sending the wrong message. Do you want people to think you’re a new contestant on RuPaul’s Drag Race, or a caveman who’s been brought back to life in a science experiment gone wrong? There is a fine line when grooming your eyebrows. Men, make sure if you are one of those guys who has one thick brow across your face that you trim inbetween so as to have two brows like a civilized man. Beware of those girls at the office telling you that you should go to their Brow Bar Girl to get your brows waxed! Many times you may walk out of the waxing salon with way too much brow missing, taking all that sexy masculinity off your face.

Hate to shave? Here's a fact you'll enjoy: A man who shaves spends roughly 3,350 hours of his life in the bathroom. If you don't shave, your beard could grow to an astonishing 27 feet (that's a lifetime figure). Meanwhile the 30,00 whiskers currently growing on your face, mostly in the daytime, will require nearly 100 strokes to remove. And you may be in the minority as 55% of men in the world have some kind of facial hair. Beards are as unique in shape as the men who are wearing them. But is that a good thing? Men, remember to consult your barber or haircutter if you’re not sure of how to wear your beard. These people are professionals when it comes to what looks best on your head or face. So ask questions the next time you’re cutting your hair. Change things up! Because the right shape cut on your face can make or break your look.

Certainly it was the cold nights in the caves where the warmth of the furry male first was appreciated. The "manly man" or the hirsute man has reached puberty and it shows. More men have chest hair than not, but that has not stopped a mass of men to find ways to have a sleek chest. Some are born that way (hormones!), some pluck, wax and shave it off. If you haven’t got much hair on your pecs, you can skip this section. If you look like you’re wearing a sweater while taking a shower… listen up! Trim, trim, trim that hair. Nobody can resist the urge to pull that tuft of hair billowing out of your shirt collar while they’re talking to you. Some people will just imagine you covered in hair during your big presentation. It could be a bit of a distraction for some of your office colleagues. Buy yourself a trimmer with attachments. If you have a fair amount of hair shaving could be too difficult and the razor burn or in-grown hair would be a nightmare. Waxing is an option but it’s best for guys who have a moderate amount of hair. Remember more hair, more pain. That little patch of hair under your arms is there to reduce friction (just like that mound of hair below), hold some smell and sometimes create a smell or yes, you guessed it, the scent of a man. So why do we cover it up with industrial poisons? The nose knows. But if you must or musk, find some without parabens, aluminums, silica, triclosan, talcs, or propylenes—they all have been known to do bad things to your body as they are easily absorbed in the skin. There are vcgan and organic deodorants available, but you might want to consider just losing it. It’s best to trim here as well. But remember when you cut the hair it leaves a blunt end. That blunt end can cause you to itch. The itching may only last a day or two but you will enjoy how cool you’ll feel with less hair there. If you are a smelly guy, less hair retains less smell.

A bush man? We really don't know why men or women for that matter have pubic hair. Some people think it helps keep our genitals and reproductive organs comfortably warm. Other people think that pubic hairs trap pheromones, unconscious signals that help people to become attracted to one another or send sexual "signals" to one another. Still, others think that pubic hair is a good marker of reproductive age, even if it's not a great sign of fertility. After all, pubic hair develops during puberty - when young women and men become sexually "mature" - and it starts to thin out as people age in their 50s and 60s and so on. (Betcha didn't know that part.) But really, we just don't know. Our advice on this subject: leave a patch! We know that if you trim the garden the house looks larger, but you can also bulldoze the house. You may want to use Nair for this project— It is a depilatory that works by breaking the disulfide bonds of the keratin molecules in hair. So when the hair grows back it’s softer and won’t cause itching, but it might irritate your skin in this area. You never want to remove all the hair in this area. Just remove all the hair on your man sack and trim the pubes around your joy stick.

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Gifted

A PRE VALENTINE WISH LIST

There’s no denying that residents of Southern California are a class act when it comes to lifestyle and products. We just use things differently here thanks to a number of various factors, one primarily being our year-round excellent weather. SoCal men in particular, make an effort to be as green and eco-conscience as possible while having a penchant for using products made with natural ingredients. Guys in L.A. are constantly surrounded by the influences of Hollywood, which adds to their desire to retain youthful appearances and modern lifestyles. Given these factors, SoCal Magazine thought about what the male SoCal reader would be interested in when it comes to selecting products that complement his lifestyle. Our associate editor, Joshua Pinkay, has gathered a unique list of items that would be ideal for the hip, upwardly-mobile SoCal guy who appreciates looking good and maintaining overall health and wellness. By Joshua J. Pinkay

The 5TH: Watches – These affordable luxury watches are sold with a unique twist. The 5TH opens its online shop on the 5th of every month and sells its products for only 5 days. This strategy generates exclusivity and limited availability—not to mention tremendous sales. (www.the5th.co)

Super Smooth Lip Balm by Recipe for Men – Enriched with a blend of highly moisturizing ingredients, this advanced formula deeply penetrates the lips without a greasy, shiny finish. (www.recipeformenusa.com)

Perry Ellis Aqua Extreme – This richer, deeper, more modern extension of Perry Ellis Aqua, was created for the modern, thrillseeking man who wants to be noticed for his unique fragrance selection. (www.perryellis.com)

Pure Rayz for Him by Quasar – This light therapy device puts the power in each man’s hand to develop clear, younger skin. The Pure Rayz technology was developed by NASA and helps eliminate fine lines and wrinkles. (www.babyquasar.com)

simplehuman - Known for their innovative home and decor products for Sandoval Aromatic Incense - This the home or office, simplehuman boasts 100% natural incense is hand made a line of sleek and on trend items that are with pure Sandalwood, Palo Santo and leading the way with today’s design and Rosewood powders. Burn these natural woods to create an aromatic fragrance that decor direction. Products like the Sensor Soap Pump or the Spin Cabinet Shower calms and captivates. Caddy are perfect for the modern SoCal (www.studiosandoval.com) guy. (www.simplehuman.com)

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Men's Shop, Cashmere Scarf Soft as the wind, this plaid scarf provides both warmth and style (Nordstrom.com)

Apple Watch Nike+ - Apple Watch Nike+ combines all of the unique features of Apple Watch Series 2 with the new Nike+ Run Club app for unrivaled motivation to go for a run, guidance from the world’s best coaches and athletes and coaching plans that adapt to your unique schedule and progress. (www.apple.com)


Stainless Steel Bottle Opener Fine Tooth Go-Comb - The Go-Comb is a lightweight comb the size of a credit card that can easily fit into any wallet or back pocket and is the stylish alternative to the black plastic comb. (www.Go-Comb.com)

Bétèrre Skin+Care, Rescue Me Foot Cream - A delicious blend of deep, soothing botanicals like menthol and peppermint offer cooling comfort to ease tired, aching feet perfect for the fitness obsessed man. (www.beterre.com)

Sea Bottle – The Sea Bottle hand wash promotes cleaner oceans, healthier skin, and the celebration of natural beauty. A portion of every sale directly benefits nonprofit groups committed to improving ocean health through public education and primary research. (www. seabottlestore.com)

Tomato Beauty Bar by SkinOwl - This soap is made specifically to treat oily and/or acne prone skin. The acidity in fresh gardengrown tomato juice is rich in vitamin A, vitamin C and vitamin K, while carotenoid anti-oxidant, lycopene, shields the skin from the harmful UV rays. All ingredients are premium quality and sourced in USA. Cruelty free. Paraben free. Mineral free. (www.skinowl.com)

Kevin.Murphy haircare – The “Balancing.Wash” and “Stimulate-Me. Rinse” are excellent products that awaken and add strength and vitality to the hair and scalp with a fresh botanical blend of Camphor Crystals, Bergamot Mint, and Black Pepper, ideally suited for men. (kevinmurphy.com/au)

Alford Hoff No 2 from BeautyKind – An innovative fragrance that is the reflection of an athletic lifestyle, effortless and masculine. With every purchase, 5% of the total is donated to the cause of the consumer’s choice. (beautykind.us)

Journeymen Natural Deodorant – This natural deodorant offers a modern, masculine fragrance that is also aluminum-free, parabenfree, and contains no harmful chemicals. (www.wearejourneymen.com)

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MRS & MRS STEMLESS GLASSES | Taylor Street Favors Retail $32.49

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A BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO SHOPPING KTOWN One of the great things about LA is the diversity of people, cultures and foods Asian markets abound in Los Angeles. To the east in San Gabriel; Valley Boulevard is rich with Chinese markets featuring some offthe-chart products such as lamb testicle and fresh turtles. KoreaTown or KTown, centered near Eighth Street and Western Avenue is also home to many supermarkets where the garlic is cheap, the tumeric abundant and in the produce section, many leafy greens that go on sale without alot of explanation. In this beginners guide we breakdown some of the products to be found, and reveal some of their uses.

Perilla | Sesame Leaves

Perilla is a mint plant that boasts medicinal properties. It's inexpensive, full of nutrients, can apparently help with hangovers and has a unique fragrance. Perilla leaves grow in a heart shape, have serrated edges and a slightly fuzzy texture. They are easy to grow and thrive in various conditions, in sfact, they're even considered a weed in some areas due to their prolific growing nature. Perilla leaves can be eaten both raw and cooked, and are often used in Korean cuisine to wrap rice, barbecued meats and vegetables. Or try making a kimchee of sorts, by marinating the leaves for an extended period with soy sauce, herbs and spices. Add Perilla leaves to salads or incorporate into savory pancakes, breads and stir fries. Perilla can also be used as a substitute for basil in caprese salad or pesto sauce. The flavor of perilla leaves pairs well with chili, garlic, soy sauce, grilled meats and soft cheeses.

Taro Root

Chrysanthemum Greens Make sure not to overcook them or Chrysanthmum Greens will turn mushy and clump together in a matter of seconds. Pair chrysanthemum greens with a sesame dressing; the nuttiness of the dressing is a great contrast to the grassiness of the plant.

Taro root comes from the taro plant, which is native to Southeast Asia and India and is a staple in diets there as well as Africa, China, the Caribbean, and Hawaii. Both the big green leaves of the plant and the root itself can be consumed when cooked. In their raw form, both are toxic. As a general rule, treat taro root like you would a potato or sweet potato — it can be roasted, boiled, simmer, mashed, or fried.

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Nira | Garlic Chives

Nira are common in Chinese, Japanese, and Korean cooking. They are added to dumplings, stir fries, soups, stews, kimchi, and green onion pancakes. To use, trim off the root end and the white tips and simply chop up like you would with chives or scallions. Nira make an excellent substitute for scallions in many recipes.

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MADE IN LA INTERVIEW Niki Smart

V

ogue called him “The Glam Rock Shoemaker” and indeed, Francis has made shoes for band members of the Sex Pistols, Mötley Crüe, and for Lita Ford. Even Lady Gaga wants a pair because no one else is doing what Francis does. Tons of people make shoes but there’s not much incentive to make far out, avant-garde shoes. Francis has had to invent his own market, seeeing as he can’t compete with mass production. His “labor of love” shoes take 100 hours + to make, and can cost $600 in materials. This exceeds Louis Vuitton in price level, so Francis needs to meet that quality. “The shoes are very me. They are my expression. I used to be a builder, but I couldn’t keep my buildings. Shoes are smallscale architecture and I don’t need permission from the city to alter them…and I can keep them. That makes me happy.” It’s also dangerous work. Francis has a deep cut on his palm and is fortunate to still be able to use his hand. He recently had 50 pounds of steel fall on top of him and slice into his head (as he tells me this, he leans forward to show me the 15 staples in his head – and I’m impressed). Then there was the bout of metal poisoning that Francis got from welding while making the Brutalism Collection. “It takes a lot to put me down, but metal poisoning sure did.” T Francis it is all worth it. The Brutalism Collection is his favorite - a powerful collection that he refuses to sell, even under heavy offers. For more information – www.chrisfancishoes.com

PHOTOGRAPHED Jennifer Blue

Who do you go to for inspiration? For every collection I make, I read a lot and draw inspiration outside of the shoe and fashion world. I draw more from architecture and different art movements. All the people I look up to are architects and so my shoes look like miniature buildings. Where do you get your materials? That’s an interesting question. I’m functioning on founds objects and use minimal store bought material. I explore creative possibilities with alternative materials and found materials. I use unconventional materials and have to invent the process to use the material. I like to think my way through a situation rather than go to a store and buy what I need. If I use leather, it’s hand painted. Plus, I have sponsorships from various local businesses, like Angela’s Paints. All the colors you see in the shoes come from Angela’s Paints. I try to make the shoes like a painting – and I like to control every aspect of the detail. Do you keep track of your shoes? I keep track of every pair, in fact, if I lose a pair, I have another to keep for my personal collection. Of course, I can’t always do that, but I personally know everyone who owns my shoes. Sometimes it’s hard to let go of my shoes; but it’s either collectors or performers who own them, so I can actually get to see them, they are not totally gone. I see them on stage or on TV/film as most of my clients are musicians.

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"Men ask for crazier shoes than women. Seems that men are quite adventurous in their footwear." Which pair has garnered the most attention? Donna Grantis – She played guitar for Prince. I made several pairs for her, including Crystal Lightning Bolt shoes Do you make shoes for men? I do. Oddly enough, I’ve put more men in high heels than women. And men ask for crazier shoes than women. Seems that men are quite adventurous in their footwear. What shoes do you wear? Our editor-in-chief takes you for a boot guy? (Laughs) Yes, I wear boots –maybe that’s why I started making shoes because I wanted shoes. The first pair I made was for myself; I’m self-taught. The usual approach to shoemaking is to apprentice under someone. I guess the reason I succeeded was I had no apprehension. Nobody told me I was wrong. I believe if you’re over trained, you may lose the imagination. I like being highly imaginative. My want my shoes to tell a story; a kind of comical narrative, so I can look at a piece and laugh. Do you have other creative outlets other than shoes? Jewelry? Artworks? I want to expand as I feel I’ve pushed shoemaking to my limits, and now I’d like to make clothes, jewelry and handbags. I don’t see why I should only focus on shoes. And I paint. I’ve always been a painter. Do you have an art history background – studying your shoes we see Japanese and Chinese influences, modern art, Russian 1916 Constructivist. The shoe is wide open with so many possibilities that haven’t been explored. I think of them as wearable architecture of industrial design. I make sure to not lock myself into one idea of self. I’m applying architecture to a form that doesn’t lend itself to architecture – the shoes have to support vertical human weight, hold a human to the ground, and be beautiful. Plus, I have to factor in wear-ability on stage. A lot of engineering goes into that. Even if the shoes are just for a photo shoot, like the Brutalism Collection – you couldn’t have walked very far in those, but a human can wear them and it will support their weight. What is next for you? Any shows? I’m exhibiting at the Lois Lambert Gallery of Functional Art. A new collection that explores wearable architecture and is inspired by the Bauhaus. And I will be at the Lancaster Museum Feb 2017

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STREET LIFE PHOTOGRAPHED BY ED FREEMAN

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Photographer Ed Freeman’s portraits of the people living along the congested LA Freeway called SOUTH BEAUDRY is home for some of the 29,000 people with no fixed address in Los Angeles. A community of a few dozen tents on a side street in downtown, with spectacular views of how the other 99 % live.

Left: South Beaudry next to the busy LA free way exchange. Top: John is a registered nurse and an Iraq war veteran. He has PTSD and hasn't worked for three years. He's on the street now, two blocks from the high-rise he used to live in. Right: Shawntay and her two cousins, Kenneth and Keekee live in adjoining tents . "It don't look like much to you, maybe, but this is our home."

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INTERVIEW WITH THE PHOTOGRAPHER

ED FREEMAN Ed is a man with a past—a folk guitarist and classical lutenist, road manager on the last Beatles tour, played guitar on many pop recordings, has done orchestral arrangements for Carly Simon and Cher, and produced and arranged DonMcLean’s classic American Pie.

How did this project evolve? The homeless problem has grown to almost unimaginable proportions in Los Angeles, and nationwide. There are something like 30,000 people living on the streets in LA County alone. A friend suggested I try photographing homeless people with the same approach I use to shoot fine art images. The idea was to put a human face on a problem that most people find uncomfortable to confront directly. I don’t pretend to know the solution, or even comprehend the scope of the problem. All I do is take pictures. But creating images that people can relate to, is hopefully a contribution towards ultimately solving the problem of homelessness. We don’t do anything about things we don’t care about, and we don’t care about things we can’t relate to. I’m hoping to make pictures people can relate to. Is there ever a thought: these people look too good? What was particularly challenging in this series is that I’m an artist, not a journalist. I’m used to playing fast and loose with reality and I don’t normally feel bound to any journalistic code of ethics. But in this series, I had to reign in my Photoshop tendencies a bit, just for the sake of believability. These ARE real people, after all. This isn’t some fantasy I dreamed up, like in so many of my “fine art” pictures. Who would you like to be photographed by? Who would I like to be photographed by? Richard Avedon, for sure, if he were still alive. It’s ironic, because he was a brutally realistic photographer, and especially attuned to peoples’ weaknesses. Many of his portraits are frighteningly ugly. That’s the complete opposite of what I do, and especially what I’m doing in this series. But Avedon was a genius, one of the most insightful portraitists ever, and I’m a huge fan of his work. 78 SoCal magazine socalmag.com


STREET LIFE Right: King George sleeps on a bus bench. He's missing one leg and gets around using an old walker. His English is mostly unintelligble and he can't say exactly where he came from or what his native language is. Bottom: Butter went to college and served in the army. Maria worked as a computer programmer. Maria and her husband Rafael have lived in a tent for a long time. They're best friends with Butter who lives a couple of tents up the road.

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THE LAST PAGE

BE ITALIAN! CINQUE TERRE PROVES THAT IT TAKES A VILLAGE (OR FIVE)

T

he Cinque Terre consists of five small villages; Monterosso, the oldest, was founded in AD 643, Riomaggiore came next in the 8th century, followed by Vernazza, Corniglia and Manarola. These picturesque villages cling to the Ligurian cliffs along Italy’s western coast and are connected by a series of walking paths and hiking trails. You can get there by car, by boat or train – and then you can walk from the first village to the fifth in a matter of hours. If you haven't done the walk, put it on your bucket list, because it is simply spectacular. There are restaurants sprinkled along the walk, some up high with panoramic views of the Mediterranean, and others down low looking up at the steeply terraced cliffs that are bisected by gardens and vineyards. These peaceful fishing villages now rely almost entirely on tourism for their existence. The tiny towns are incredibly popular tourist destinations with a whooping 2.5 million people visiting per year. And be warned - their ever increasing popularity may see a ticketing system being implemented in the near future. —Niki Smart Additional Photos by Mary Mauer

80 SoCal magazine socalmag.com


䐀䤀匀䌀伀嘀䔀刀 吀䠀䔀 倀䔀刀䘀䔀䌀吀 刀䄀吀䤀伀 伀䘀 倀唀刀䔀 䄀一䐀 一䄀吀唀刀䄀䰀  䤀一䜀刀䔀䐀䤀䔀一吀匀 䘀伀刀 䠀䔀䄀䰀吀䠀夀 䜀䰀伀圀䤀一䜀 匀䬀䤀一⸀

匀漀䌀愀氀 䴀愀最愀稀椀渀攀 爀攀愀搀攀爀猀 挀愀渀 爀攀挀攀椀瘀攀 ㈀ ─ 漀昀昀 琀栀爀漀甀最栀 琀栀攀 洀漀渀琀栀 漀昀 䘀攀戀爀甀愀爀礀 甀猀椀渀最 瀀爀漀洀漀 挀漀搀攀 ᰠ匀伀䌀䄀䰀䰀伀嘀䔀ᴠ 椀渀 挀攀氀攀戀爀愀琀椀漀渀 漀昀 嘀愀氀攀渀琀椀渀攀ᤠ猀 䐀愀礀℀

䜀攀琀 猀漀挀椀愀氀 眀椀琀栀 甀猀Ⰰ ⌀刀攀猀琀漀爀愀琀椀漀渀匀欀椀渀挀愀爀攀 眀 眀 眀 ⸀ 刀 攀 猀 琀 漀 爀 椀 渀 最 夀漀 甀 爀 匀 欀 椀 渀 ⸀ 挀 漀 洀

SoCal magazine 81


A flavorful cocktail has never been easier. JUST ADD SODA.

ENJOY RESPONSIBLY.

ABSOLUT® LIME. LIME FLAVORED VODKA. PRODUCT OF SWEDEN. 40% ALC./VOL. ©2017 IMPORTED BY ABSOLUT SPIRITS CO., NEW YORK, NY. 17764F3Z2386388 82 SoCal magazine socalmag.com

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